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bikes and bites

chef-style comfort

crafting a movement

TOUR D’LOU

ULTIMATE RECIPES

THE BEER BIZ

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

One word: BEER

feastSTL.com | OCTOBER 2012 | FREE


CraftBeers

At your �eighborhood Sch�ucks, you’ll fi�d hu�dreds of craft a�d microbrew beers i�cludi�g a� impressive selectio� brewed right here i� St. Louis! I� fact, we part�er with Schlafly for our exclusive seaso�al beers like Culi�aria Schlafly Raspberry Coffee Stout. We’re proud to carry beers from some of the most respected brewers i�cludi�g Magic Hat, Goose Isla�d, Firesto�e a�d Perre�ial. Do�’t forget to ask about orderi�g barrels or kegs for parties. Check i�-store for craft beer tasti�gs a�d semi�ars!

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Let Mama make it for you... Deep Dish Pizza, Sandwhiches, Salads and More! Happy Hour Specials Monday through Friday 3-6pm Drink Specials & Free Appetizers Dine In, Carry Out and Neighborhood Delivery $5 off any appetizer with purchase of any style 14" or 16" pizza with this coupon.

7704 Ivor y • St. Louis • 314.638.8676 • facebook.com/mamagustos314

Family owned and operated since 1967. We sharpen • Knives • Garden tools • Scissors • Lawn mower blades

• Old fashion rotary mowers • And much much more

Wide selection of Wusthof Knives, Global Knives, Victorinox Knives, AllClad Pans, Capresso Coffee Makers, Atlas Pasta Machines, Emile Henry Bakeware, USA Pan Bakeware, Vic Firth Pepper Mills, and other World Class brands. Great selection of High end Knives, Cookware, Kitchen tools and gadgets. Great Holiday specials.

Bertarelli Cutlery 1927 Marconi, Saint Louis MO 63110 314-664-4005

Bertarelli Cutlery

@STLKNIVES

Comedy Murder Mystery Dinner Theatre “Mayhem in Mayberry” Welcome to the 10th annual “Miss Mayberry” contest. YOU decide who will walk away with the crown as the contestants are chosen from the audience. Will it be Dazy Doof from Hazaard county? Or the beautiful hillbilly, Elly May Klumpett? How ‘bout the charming Paris Hoosier from Hoosierville? Join Sheriff Andy, Deputy Blarney and Aint Bee for a night of merriment and murder in this interactive comedy mystery served with a 4-course meal to DIE for! Make your reservations now; it would be a CRIME to miss out on this much FUN!

Bring in this ad for $10.00 off per person. Valid thru October, 2012. Not valid for groups.

4426 Randall Pl. • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com

Retail and Wholesale For over 81 years, the Wenneman family business has been a tradition for many people in the St. Louis Metropolitan area. With total commitment to customer satisfaction as their primary objective, we place great emphasis on product quality and customer service. Wenneman Meat Company is a full service, federally inspected, old fashioned butcher shop and meat market. We produce a complete line of our own meat, deli and poultry products. Our formulations and recipes have been passed down for generations, and remain unchanged, while continuing to grow our product lines.

Retail and Wholesale

7415 State Rt 15 • St. Libor y, IL • 618.768.4328 • wenneman.com 4

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OCTOBER 2012


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Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

5


Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

OCTOBER 2012

from the staff

| 10 |

feaststl.com

What’s online this month.

| 12 |

from the PUBLISHER

Falling for autumn’s flavors.

| 14 | FEAST FAVES

Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis. COLUMNS

| 26 |

my stuff

Winemaker Brandon Dixon blends knowledge and experience with good taste.

| 29 |

gadget a-go-go

We put five ice cream scoops to the test.

| 30 | ON THE SHELF

New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 32 |

mystery shopper

Buy it and try it: milk oolong.

| 34 | TECH SCHOOL

Brew your own root beer.

| 36 |

how to

Making homemade ice cream without the machine.

| 38 | EASY EATS

Savor fall squash with pumpkin risotto.

| 74 |

the dish

Online columnist Amy Burdge dips into a sweet Spanish favorite.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY of craft beer (P. 63) BY Jonathan Gayman Table of contents photography BY

Jennifer Silverberg

6

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2012


56

a bike and an appetite

double feature

ultimate homestyle dishes 42

the business of

63

BEER Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

7


Magazine Volume 3

| Issue 10 | October 2012

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor Brandi Wills Managing Editor, Digital Content Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Allen Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editors/Proofreaders Stephanie Witmer, Andrea Mongler Contributing Writers Amy Burdge, Brandon Chuang, Pat Eby, Chad Michael George Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson, Angela Ortmann, Lucy Schnuck Matt Seiter, Michael Sweeney, Cassy Vires Contributing Photographers Geoff Cardin, Jonathan Gayman, Laura Ann Miller Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg Contributing Videographer Hannah Radcliff Contributing Illustrator Derek Bauman

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Kelly Klein, 314.340.8562 kklein@stltoday.com Editorial Comments editor@feastSTL.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright Š 2010-2012 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC Jennifer A. Wood, publisher

8

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2012


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�ENTON ST. PETERS (636) 326-9015 (636) 279-1543 625 Gravois Rd. Across from Fe�to� Plaza, 293 Mid Rivers Mall Dr. �ext to Gold’s Gym Take 70 to Mid Rivers Mall Dr.; ST. LOUIS go south 2 blocks. (314) 832-5300 O� right �ext to Bed, 4650 La�dsdow�e Bath & Beyo�d, behi�d So. Ki�gshwy. & Christy Blvd. McDo�ald’s. �ear Burli�gto� Coat Factory

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OCTOBER 2012

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ONLINE CONTENT

feastSTL.com

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

The Feed

Online Exclusives

This Month’s Feast

Watch & Listen

Feast Events

Recipes

SPECIAL GIVEAWAY: Enter to win this brand-new beach cruiser from Big Shark Bicycle Co. – perfect for riding our Bike and An Appetite (p. 56) routes – and a $100 Straub’s gift card to pack a picnic basket for the outing. Details at feastSTL.com. Photography by J. Pollack Photography

EXCLUSIVE VIDEOS MUST-WATCH VIDEOS: Get in the kitchen with Local Harvest chef Clara Moore (pictured center) and Farmhaus chef Kevin Willmann as they demo their ultimate homestyle dishes (p. 42). Go behind the scenes at Sauce on the Side (p. 14) and check out exclusive footage from Chaumette Vineyards & Winery chef Adam Lambay’s 35 Mile Dinner and the farmers he worked with to source ingredients.

10

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2012

CONNECT WITH US facebook.com/feastSTL twitter.com/feastmag pinterest.com/feastmag


A Get-Away for the Entire Family.

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Nothing quite as savory as our sixteen-ounce

Prime New York Strip enhanced by a delicious brandy peppercorn sauce, fresh salad, creamy garlic mashed potatoes and Rose Bud Salad.

Conveniently located in Kirkwood Dinner Hours: Tues.-Sun. 5 p.m.

BREAKFAST & DINNER INCLUDED! Wilderness Lodge is just two hours from St. Louis.

Info or Reservations: 573-637-2295 www.enjoywilderness.com

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PYRUS SAISON Malt Beverage, Brewed with White Pepper, Orange Zest & Pear Juice

Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

11


FROM THE PUBLISHER

There’s never been a better time to be a beer lover. Craft breweries, like The Civil Life, are making incredibly good brews and offering

PS

FEAST EVENTS

unique spaces in which to imbibe. Turn to page 63 to get to know some of the guys behind our bourgeoning beer scene.

Stadium Beer Dinner

Mon., Oct. 1, 6pm; Stadium Sports Bar & Grill $40, janet.leeker@lumiereplace.com

Beer lovers, enjoy a five-course beer dinner at Stadium Sports Bar at Lumière Place Casino.

Iron Kids

Wed., Oct. 3, 5:25 to 9:30pm; The Thaxton $100, 314.721.8116

Children will present tasty creations developed with chefs from Big Sky, Bistro 1130, Farmhaus, L’Ecole Culinaire and Three Kings Public House to benefit Discovering Options.

Feast Your Eyes

Sat., Oct. 6, 12:30pm; Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis

Enjoy a tasting prepared in response to the exhibitions and paired with local wine and cocktails.

Greater St. Louis Restaurant Week Fri., Oct. 12, to Sun., Oct. 21 restaurantweekstl.com

This event offers a variety of dishes from top chefs, and diners can visit old favorites and try the new restaurants that have opened recently in the Greater St. Louis area.

2nd Annual American Cheese Month Fri., Oct. 12, 6 to 9pm; Parker’s Table $55, tim@cheezsorce.com

Eight hand-crafted cheeses will be paired with charcuterie from Salume Beddu, plus wines and an artisan-brewed beer from the sommeliers at Parker’s Table.

L’Ecole Academy Class

Sat., Oct. 13, 11:30am to 2:30pm $75, lecoleacademy.com or 314.264.1999

Grab your sweetie and head to this date-night class to learn Mediterranean cooking together.

Ultimate Recipes Class

aside the fresh, bright flavors of summer and spend the day in my kitchen, braising short ribs or simmering a stew. I want richer wines and hearty beers. With that in mind, we packed this issue full of perfect-for-fall drinks and dishes. We celebrate our booming craft-beer industry this month with a piece by Brandon Chuang that digs into craft beer’s rapid growth. Brandi Wills introduces you to Wolfbrau, a St. Peters shop that’s a beer geek’s dream. And Cassy Vires offers a recipe for true (read: fermented) root beer. And what pairs better with a great beer and a crisp autumn night than homestyle comfort food? We’ve put together a special double feature filled with “ultimate” recipes from local chefs and food bloggers. These are the dishes their friends and families request – Kevin Willmann’s green bean casserole, Clara Moore’s fried chicken, Kendele Noto’s Caramel Apple Cheesecake … From their kitchen to yours, the chefs offer tips on how to tweak family favorites, so you can put your own spin on their tried-and-true recipes.

4 Hands Food Truck Feast Sat., Oct. 20, noon to 8pm; 4 Hands Brewery

Enjoy food from numerous food trucks, live music, pumpkin painting and beer-inspired sports. 4 Hands will release Smoked Pigasus, a rye smoked maple porter.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Oct. 24, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $40, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Make the pumpkin risotto on page 38.

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Wed., Oct. 24, 6pm; Square One Brewery RSVP to editor@feastSTL.com

Join us to discuss Brewing Up a Business: Adventures in Beer while enjoying complimentary hors d’oeuvres and beer specials. Purchase the book from Left Bank Books and receive 20 percent off.

Whole Foods Market Grass-Fed Beef Chili Cook Off

Sat., Oct. 27, 1 to 4pm; Whole Foods Market Town & Country

Until next time,

Cast your vote for the best grass-fed beef chili and sip samples of Schlafly beer and Kaldi’s coffee at this free event. feedback?

catherine@feaststl.com

Catherine Neville 12

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2012

Jonathan Gayman

comforters are being pulled out and sweaters are being pulled on. By October, I’m ready to push

Join Cat Neville, Pint Size Bakery’s Christy Augustin and STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann for a class that will teach you homestyle classics perfect for fall.

PHOTOGRAPHy by

The season is shifting. Days are getting shorter. There’s a nip in the air. Down

Wed., Oct. 17, 6:30pm $30, wholefoodsmarket.com/service/register-cooking-classes


Annual Events

you don't want to miss! Wine Diva Weekend:

Jour de la Terre

Souper Wine Weekend:

April 20 and 21, 2013

November 17 and 18, 2012 January 19 and 20, 2013

Romancing the Grape:

(Earth Day):

Progressive Meal:

• Go Ahead, Dunk it!

May 18 and 19, 2013

• See What happens when you pair our family's wines with one of our biscotti selections.

February 9 and 10, 2013

• When that perfect match is found, the best is brought out in both the wine and the biscottithey're a perfect compliment!

www.rdvwinetrail.com

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Live Music Under the Grape Arbor Every Saturday in September and October.

www.show-meshop.com 10 S. Main St. St. Genevieve, MO 63670 573.883.3096 OPEN DAILY: 10 am to 5 pm

Try some of the most unique fare in all of Ste. Genevieve!

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Sun. - Wed. 11 am - 4 pm Thurs. 11 am - 8 pm Fri. - Sat. 11 am - 10 pm 10 South 3rd Street Sainte Genevieve, MO 63670

(573) 883-9600

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245 Merchant Street Ste. Genevieve, MO 63670

1-800-398-1298

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www.saintegenevievewinery.com Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

13


FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

Sauce on the Side

St. Louisans love pizza. No surprise there. Calzones often share menu space with pizza pies, but rarely do the sandwich-sized pizza-dough turnovers take center stage. Until now. At Sauce on the Side, calzones rule. There are 14 to choose from, each one more creative than the last. Traditionalists, Meat Me in St. Louie is for you. Pepperoni and Italian sausage are baked with gooey Provel, mascarpone and ricotta. The dough is given a brush of garlic oil, and the turnover is served with a rich meat sauce on the side. Pesto sauce is paired with pulled chicken, onion and arugula in the Roasty Toasty. Queso is served with the Pancho Villa, which is stuffed with chorizo, jalapeños, yellow peppers and smoked Cheddar. And the Gonzo marries salami and dates with baby spinach, Boursin, mozzarella, mascarpone and ricotta. You can make your own calzone as well with fillings that range from green olives to pineapple to pancetta to figs. Consider your calzone a blank canvas for culinary creativity. – C.N. 903 Pine St., Downtown eatcalzones.com

14

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2012

Downtown

behind the scenes! Meet the guys at Sauce on the Side and watch them cook their cheesy, delicious calzones to order. Scan the tag or visit feastSTL.com to watch the video.

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman

creative calzones

314.241.5667


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Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

15


FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

Thai 202

thai, fresh and fast cabbage, poached chicken, carrot, tomato and peanuts. Naturally, pad Thai makes an appearance on the menu, but venture out of your comfort zone and try the pad basil, a spicy stir-fried dish with straw mushrooms, bell pepper and onion, all topped with a fried egg. Soups include tangy tom yum, rich tom kha and a curry noodle soup with egg noodles and sprouts. Traditional steamed buns are stuffed

Central West End

with sweet barbecued pork, and one of our menu faves was on the appetizer list: fried sweet potatoes. Dipped in a sesame seed batter and fried until hot and crispy, this street-food snack will keep you coming back. – C.N. 235 N. Euclid Ave., Central West End 314.367.2002

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Corey Woodruff

One taste of Thai 202’s rich, spicy green curry and you’ll be hooked. This tiny fast-casual restaurant serves classic Thai dishes, all superfresh, inexpensive and quickly made to order. That delicious green curry has a hint of sweetness and layers of flavor from fish sauce, basil and coconut milk. If you’re looking for something lighter, the Thai slaw mixes a tangy lime dressing with raw shredded

314.367.2002

16

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2012


For a unique assortment of Collectibles, Antiques & Gifts try...

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Welcoming Visitors sitors for Over 200 Years!

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with purchase of 2 beverages. Limit 1 coupon per table, not valid with any other offers or during special events. Expires Oct. 31, 2012

The interactive Polar Bear plays 12 Christmas carols on request, and 12 more by heart. Sing along, or just smile as you listen to his tunes and witty banter. Wood piano with moving piano keys. Battery operated.

F T

Open Daily

Serving lunch from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Dinner Seasonally Fri. & Sat. 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.

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StringAlongWithMe • Brighton • Accessories

• Hats • Scarves

FREE Guitar Lessons to Veterans Saturday Mornings at 9:30am with Bill Dennis

608 South Main • 636-949-0033 www.jansensclocks.com

Come in and Enjoy Continental Breakfast

524 South Main St (636)493-6023

High Tea by Jane Muscroft 4th Sunday each month. Call for details. By reservation only. 618-205-6188 Open Tuesday-Saturday 11 to 5 329 South Main St., Historic St. Charles, MO | 636-946-0505

www.gardencafealafleur.com

HERE'S A GIFT

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Specialty Foods, Dips, Soups, Cheesecakes, Sauces, Mustards, Cheeseball mixes, Jams, Coffee, Tea, Candy, Spices and Seasonings

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With this coupon.

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708 South Main Street • www.mainstreetmarketplace.com

Custom Designs & Repairs

625 S. Main Street 636-947-7740

THRO’S

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Facebook: Main Street Marketplace in Historic Saint Charles Missouri

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10% OFF

A Brilliant Choice!

original

exp. Oct 31, 2012

www.hams-deli.com Mon. - Fri. 10am-3pm Sat. 9am-5pm Sun. 9am-3pm 105 North Main, St. Charles, MO 63301

Walter's has as an outstanding reputation for high quality jewelry and diamonds, with our knowledgeable staff and our excellent service.

We Buy...

Diamonds, Watches, Fine Jewelry In House Repair Custom Designs • Appraisals

Walter's is always buying gold, platinum, silver, estate jewelry, coins, diamonds and Rolex Watches

Walters Jewelry Inc. • Four Generations Since 1925

After 114 years. . .

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the styles may change, but our commitment to service remains.

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230 North Main St., St. Charles, MO

636-724-0604 OR 636-946-7352

www.waltersjewelryinc.com

Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

17


FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | FOOD STUFF

Natural Sodas Impure and unpronounceable ingredients have led some people to turn up their noses at soda. Thanks to these all-natural versions, you can lift the ban on bubbly drinks. Or turn to page 34 to learn to make your own root beer at home. – B.W.

Fizzy Flavor: Lavender

Fizzy Flavor: Cola

Fizzy Flavor: Meyer Lemon

| 1 | Dry lavender soda, $1.69 per bottle or $6.49 for a four-pack; The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com | 2 | Oogave cola, $2.75 per bottle; Frida’s Deli, 622 North and South Road, University City, fridasdeli.com | 3 | GuS dry Meyer lemon soda, $5.49 for a four-pack; Straub’s, multiple locations, straubs.com PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller 18

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2012


Discover Historic Main Street Columbia

Illinois

Where you will find hospitality, warmth, charm, style and friendly faces! 30 FESTIFALL 1-6pm • METTER PARK - WELL HUNGARIANS BAND SCHEDULE OF EVENTS: September October12 METTER PARK OUTDOOR MOVIE Dusk Extended Holiday Business Hours:

Thursdays - 8pm, or later Sundays Noon - 4pm, or later

HOURS: Closed Monday Tuesday thru Thursday 11am to 9pm Friday 11am to 10 pm • Saturday 4pm to 10 pm • Sunday 4pm to 9pm

Carry Out & Delivery Available! 4628 N. Illinois (Highway 159) Fairview Heights, IL 62208

(618) 416-4464

117 North Main Street, Columbia, IL 62236

(618) 281-7330 www.jonnys-pizza.com

October 27 HALLOWEEN HI JINKS 10am-1pm October 31 SCARE SQUARE & PUMPKIN GLOW 5:30-8pm

Visit ColumbiaIllinois.com for upcoming event details.

DAILY DRINK & FOOD SPECIALS

5 TINY’S PUB & GRILL

$ 50 LUNCH SPECIAL with this ad. Expires 10/31/12

602 N. Main St. Columbia, IL 62236

618-281-9977 Grill open til 9 pm daily. Pub open til 1 am.

FREEGIFT With any purchase over $25.

Like us on Facebook for Sales, Events & Much More! www.facebook.com/ar.agnesross Located in The Old Distillery Center 115 West Gundlach Street

618-281-4327

Unique Western Apparel and Decor... Crafted to Last The Patina Pony is proud to present Western inspired clothing, boots, jewelry, accessories and designer home decor from today's top Western Artisans.

SAVE 10%

When you present this ad with your first purchase. Offer expires 10.31.2012. Offer not valid on furniture.

Located in the Old Distillary 113 W. Gundlach • Columbia, IL • 618.281.7915 • thepatinapony.com

WINE SHOP, WINE GARDEN & TASTING BAR New Orleans Boy Meets Local Girl

Oct. 13, Noon–9 pm Traditional Boil with Fresh Seafood

Cajun Cuisuine Street Fest Live Music–Zydeco Crawdaddy's 123 South Main St • Columbia, IL 62236 Phone: 618-281-2229 Chris: 314-280-5224 • Micki: 618-980-2132 Email:whodatstakeout@yahoo.com • www.whodatsrestaurant.com

Great Wines, Specialty Beers,

1395

Spirits &

LARGE TWO- $ TOPPING PIZZA

Wine Accessories

chateaulavin.com

NEW WINE GARDEN - NOW OPEN!

Closed Monday • Tues.-Thurs. 2-9pm • Fri.-Sat. Noon-10pm • Sun. Noon-5pm

119 South Main Street, Columbia, IL • 618.281.8117

Come enjoy Lunch, Dinner or Drinks on our New Outdoor Patio! Lunch & Dinner Menu

$8 OFF

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

Authentic Italian Brick Oven!

618-281-5552

CARRY-OUT • DINE-IN • DELIVERY

• Large Outdoor Patio • 11 Flat Screen TVs • 12 Beers on Tap, Imported and Specialty Micro Brews • Extensive Wine List • Kitchen Open Late

Private Parties Available

618-281-2020

608 North Main St. Columbia, IL 62236 www.grillandgrape.com Daily lunch and dinner specials

Offer expires 10/31/12

117 S. Main St., Columbia, IL 62236

www.joeboccardis.com

1450 Evergreen (Columbia, IL)

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

Purchase of $30 or More

618-281-6700

Must mention coupon when ordering. Only one coupon per purchase. Tax not included. Delivery Additional. Not good with any other offer. EXPIRES 12/31/12

Black Angus Steaks & Burgers Appetizers • Salads • Sandwhiches • Fish Brick Oven Pizzas • Desserts

618-710-0200 700 North State St. Freeburg, IL 62243

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OCTOBER 2012

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Thursday nights are rocking 5- 8 p.m. Live music, food & beverages available. Music at the Market - October 11 Sunset at the Riverfront - October 25 Downtown's Second Annual Murder Mystery Dinner Enjoy the suspense, clues, and drama of the “Who-dun-it?” while enjoying a delicious dinner. October 18. Washington Pumpkin Palooza Come and enjoy the first ever on Saturday, October 27. Located on Main Street between Elm & Cedar. This event includes our Giant Pumpkin Contest, Pumpkin Pie Bake-Off, Scarecrow Contest, Zombie Hunt, Pumpkin Seed Spitting Contest, Pumpkin Roll, Pumpkin Decorating/Carving Contest and Costume Contest. Great fun for the entire family! Downtown's Thirsty Thursday & Holiday Shopping Open House Downtown merchants will provide free wine, beer, or soft drink tastings while you shop for unique treasures for those on your holiday list. Thursday, November 15th.

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Join Us October 18th!

Downtown's Second Annual

Murder Mystery Dinner!

The Farmers’ Market Vendors, with fresh, seasonal produce and plants, jams and jellies, baked goods and crafts can be found April through Dec. (Wednesday afternoons and Saturday mornings) at Washington's wonderful covered facility. Girlfriends Only! Weekend (Perfect for the deer hunter widows) November 9 - 11 All-inclusive with lodging, meals, scheduled tours and events, games and transportation around Washington.

636-239-2715 www.washmo.org

Doin' it the natural way

Call for More Details

636-239-1743

Live Local Music every other Friday. Call for details.

Old Hwy 100, Washington, Missouri

Naturally Raised Pork

toadspigs.com 314-791-6942

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Wed. - Sat. 6am-8pm Sun. 6am-7pm Mon. & Tues. Closed

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Celebrating Our

18th Year in Business!

123 Front St, Labadie, MO 63055

(636) 451-0004 www.thehawthorneinn.net 20

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OCTOBER 2012

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rant In Town and Still t Restau s e d Ol e Place To Meet" "Th

TODD GEISERT FARMS Pumpkins and Fall Decorations Now In

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Dine In, Carry Out, Catering and Delivery

323 W. 5th Street Washington, MO 63090 Phone (636)239-3131 Fax (636)239-3139

Basketcasedeli@yahoo.com WWW.thebasketcasedeli.com

Fine American Furnishings, Folk Art and Primitive Accents for Your Home and Garden.

Shop Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 10am-4pm Sunday-Monday Closed

2733 Highway T (636)742-5900 Labadie, MO. 63055 www.thetinrabbit.com


FEAST FAVES

| whAT we’re drinking

Drink Like Royalty Story and recipe by Matt Seiter

This cocktail was, in fact, the creation of its namesake, The Prince of Wales – specifically Albert Edward, son of Queen Victoria (reign 1837 to 1901). I ran across this palate pleaser in David Wondrich’s Imbibe!, a fantastic read and must-have for any cocktail geek. I followed Wondrich’s source, The Private Life of King Edward VII (London, 1901), searching for clues as to how or why the prince came up with this concoction. To my dismay, I found none.

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Laura Ann Miller

So why did this royal feel the need to create a cocktail? He did spend some time in the U.S. and was an advocate of maintaining good relations with Americans. I speculate this was how he was introduced to the craft of cocktail making. In regards to the ingredients of his drink, history lends some insight. Around the mid1860s, there was a phylloxera epidemic in France that decimated vineyards around the country. Wine, cognac and brandy prices skyrocketed and something had to take their place behind bars. This is when domestic whiskey became more common in the States. It was cheap and easy to get, which may account for its use in this recipe. Maraschino liqueur was a common sweetener in American bars, as were powdered sugar and Angostura Bitters. I must admit, however, that the pineapple eludes me. Perhaps he was simply fond of it.

Working With Bubbles in Cocktails Cocktail makers have found solace in carbonated beverages over the centuries. They provide a slight effervescence, added flavor and balance to drinks, but you must be careful mixing them unless you like high drycleaning bills. If you shake a drink that uses carbonated beverages, the pressure builds up, the top of the tin pops off, and you and your guests get soaked. There are three ways to add bubbles to your drinks without making a mess: topping, rolling and throwing. Topping a drink is simple. Pour all your ingredients except the bubbles in a glass. Then pour your bubbles on top, give it a quick stir and serve. You can roll a drink two ways. Mix all your ingredients, bubbles included, in one tin. Add ice. Pour the contents into another empty tin. Then pour them back into the original tin. Repeat 10 to 15 times and then strain into

a glass of your choice. Or you can mix all ingredients in a tin, with the bubbles and ice, and place the top firmly on the tin as if you were going to shake it. Holding it with two hands, repeatedly turn the tin over on itself in a circular motion (think of the tin rolling down a hill in a somersault fashion). Do this for 10 to 15 seconds, pop the top and strain the contents in a glass of your choice. Throwing a drink takes practice, but when you get the hang of it, it’s a fancy show. Mix all ingredients, bubbles included, in a tin. Add ice. Place your Hawthorne strainer (the one with the spring on it) over the top of the tin to hold back the ice. Pour the contents into an empty tin as you stretch out your hands as far as possible. Pour the contents back into the tin with ice. Repeat seven to 10 times and watch as your guests ooh and aah.

Another theory as to why he might have created this drink is his status as a royal. According to Wondrich, the prince was overshadowed by his mother and bored. He took to hanging out in clubs and theaters and taking on mistresses. If you spend enough time in a bar and get to know enough drinks, you eventually start to come up with recipes of your own. Was it boredom? Intuition? Desire for a change? Whatever the impetus, the result is a fabulous drink. It’s equally delicious in warmer months and cooler weather, making it a perfect autumn choice.

Prince of Wales Serves | 1 | 1½ oz 2 dashes 2 dashes 1 tsp 1 chunk 1½ oz

Old Overholt rye whiskey Luxardo Maraschino liqueur Angostura bitters powdered sugar fresh pineapple (or ¼ oz pineapple juice) cava lemon twist, for garnish

| Preparation | If using fresh pineapple, combine all ingredients except cava and garnish in a cocktail tin. Add ice and shake for 15 seconds. Fine-strain into a chilled glass and top with cava and garnish. If using pineapple juice, mix all ingredients except garnish in a cocktail tin. Add ice and roll the drink for 15 seconds. Strain into a chilled glass and garnish.

Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

21


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22

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FEAST FAVES

| shop-o-matic

INTERIOR of Wolfbrau PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller

BEER CENTRAL When all you do is beer, you’ve got to do it really well. And that’s what owner Ryan Wolf has done at Wolfbrau, his one-man, beer-only operation in St. Peters where he sells 700 different beers. It’s a “for beer lovers by beer lovers” kind of place, with beers organized alphabetically on the shelves and in the coolers; labels that indicate price and the provenance, style and AVB for every beer the store sells; and a color-coded “build your own six-pack” wall that prices individual bottles based on what they would cost if you purchased them in a regular six-pack. So you never overpay to try new things. “I think we’re the only place around that focuses solely on beer without carrying any wine or spirits,” says Wolf. “And it helps broaden our selection because we don’t have to designate shelf space to those other categories. ” Being on the edge of the metro area has surprising benefits, according to Wolf. “Distributors usually deliver to the city first, then St. Louis County and finally get to St. Charles County. This is actually a good thing for me because when all the stores in the city run out of a really popular beer, I’m just getting it in and have plenty in stock.” – B.W. Wolfbrau, 286 Mid Rivers Center, St. Peters 636.242.1040 wolfbrau.com

|2|

3 BREWS TO BUY

|1|

|3|

| 1 | “This time of year we do a Pick-A-Pack-Of-Pumpkins section on our bottle wall, where you can mix and match all the seasonal pumpkin beers,” says Wolf. “Schlafly Pumpkin Ale is always a huge hit.” | 2 | Bat Creek Flip Nut is a nutty American brown ale made by two guys in Bowling Green, Mo. “[Jeremy Gilbert and Ryan Daffron] are great brewers,” says Wolf. “They’re like the small hometown band that hit it big. You just want to root for everything they do.” | 3 | For a unique take on the Oktoberfest style, try Magic Hat Hex. “Hex has some unusual ingredients, including rye malt and smoked malt,” says Wolf. “It really stands out in the Oktoberfest category.”

Inspired Food Culture

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Fratelli's Eggplant Parmigiano Large Eggplant 3 Egg Beaten, pinch of salt & pepper 4 cups Italian breadcrumbs Olive oil

Tomato sauce Provel, Mozzarella, Romano cheese Fresh basil

Peel & slice eggplant to ½ inch slices. Dredge/dunk slices 1st in egg, then in Italian breadcrumbs. Fry in skillet with olive oil, 3 min. each side, set aside to drain. Layer cooked eggplant with tomato sauce and ALL cheeses in a casserole dish. Bake in 350* oven till cheese is melted, about 5 min. Drizzle with olive oil, top with fresh basil. Serve Hot...Buon Appetito!

2061 Zumbehl• St. Charles, MO • 636.949.9005 • Visit us on

• fratellisristorante.com

Chicken Dinner Sundays Buy one chicken dinner Get one chicken dinner FREE Expires October 31, 2012. Dine-in only.

114 W. Mill St. • Waterloo, IL • 618.939.9933 • gallagherswaterloo.com

Celebrate Oktoberfest with us! Remember your heritage, a special occasion, or just sit back and relax in a unique atmosphere. Taste and discover authentic German food, freshly prepared following regional & family recipes. Thursday, Oct 11th "Bavarian Oktoberfest" from 5pm-10pm Live from Germany "Dorfrockers" and Michael Meier's "Brass Band" Bring your Lederhose, Fraulein and your dance shoes We have Bier, Food, Music and Gemuetlichkeit. Live music every 2nd & 4th Saturday • Patio seating Groups welcome. Tues-Fri 11-2 & 5-9, Sat & Sun 5-9

1415 McKinley St. • Mascoutah • 618.566.4884 • roemertopfllc.com

"Voted Best Sandwich in St. Louis" Pickles "New York Style" Deli offers Fresh sliced meats, top line cheeses and bakery fresh breads at two convenient locations. Famous for their New York Pastrami, Kosher style corned beef brisket, Reubens and Philly Cheese Steaks. Plus soups, salads, desserts and more. Breakfast served Downtown from 7 a.m. to 11a.m.

Hours: (Downtown): 7am - 3pm M-F (CWE) 9am - 7pm M-F 10am - 3pm Sat

22 North Euclid Central West End • 314. 361.DELI • 701 Olive St. Downtown 314.241.2255 • picklesdelistl.com 24

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FEAST FAVES

| what we’re buying

Picnic Wares

|1|

Summer has passed, but that doesn’t mean outdoor dining is gone with it. Throw on a sweater and head to your favorite park or outdoor attraction with a blanket and a basket full of flavorful fall fare.

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– B.W.

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| 1 | Spreading Landscape throw, $168; Anthropologie, St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, anthropologie.com | 2 | Wicker picnic basket, $349.95; Williams-Sonoma, multiple locations, williams-sonoma.com | 3 | Cheese Serving Set, $80; momastore.org | 4 | Electra Bike rear rack wicker baskets, $120; Big Shark Bicycle Co., 6133 Delmar Blvd., The Loop, bigshark.com | 5 | Stacking acrylic wine glasses, $9.99 for set of four; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel. com | 6 | Bodum Frykat green grill, $49.95; Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com

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MY STUFF

Brandon Dixon

Winemaker for Noboleis Vineyards written by Catherine Neville

What’s your favorite part of winemaking? I love finishing a wine. This is when you see the fruit of your labor and the vision for that particular wine come together. The tasting and blending processes are actually the artistic side of winemaking. Scientifically, any juice will ferment. It takes attention and a love of the craft to produce something special. How do you approach blending? I think about what I want to accomplish based on the qualities of each wine. I’m trying to finesse each wine’s [qualities] so that when blending, I create a wine that is balanced and complex. Everyone’s palate is different, and just because I’m the winemaker doesn’t mean mine is always the best. I usually create several versions of blends that involve different ratios and then let people try the different blends and offer feedback. Last spring we had guests taste four different wines and asked them for feedback. Based on that feedback we created our new semisweet Traminette. How is the industry changing? One of the things we’ve seen is that the Missouri industry isn’t being dominated by big wineries as much as in the past. I’ve seen a number of boutique wineries open in the past five years, and most of them are open to sharing resources. We recently tried out a mobile bottling service that’s new to Missouri; it’s a large bottling line placed inside of a custom-built trailer. While a piece of equipment of this size would be out of reach for most smaller wineries, the mobile service allows us to bottle our wines with more sophisticated equipment that will increase our wines’ longevity and hopefully help bring down our costs. Sharing resources definitely helps drive innovation. What do you wish people knew about Missouri wine? Missouri has been producing wine for over 160 years, and during its heyday, it was producing millions of gallons annually. All of that came to a screeching halt during Prohibition. It wasn’t until the mid-1960s that Missouri saw the rebirth of the wine industry. It has been growing steadily ever since then, and at last count, there are over 120 wineries in the Show-Me State. 26

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Noboleis Vineyards 100 Hemsath Road, Augusta 636.482.4500 noboleisvineyards.com Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Brandon.

PHOTOGRAPHY By Jonathan Gayman

In April of 2003, Brandon Dixon got his start at Mount Pleasant Winery under the tutelage of his uncle, Mark Baehmann. “What started as a part-time position to assist with bottling became a full-time passion,” says Dixon. “I started with Noboleis in March of 2009, even before a building existed. We produced our first wines later that fall.” Situated along Highway 94, Noboleis Vineyards boasts 12 acres of vineyards growing Vignoles, Traminette, Chambourcin and Norton. “I collaborate with Fred Dressel of Evergreen Nursery and Bob Nolan, owner of Noboleis, to oversee and manage our vineyards. All major decisions about the grapes are made together, from planting to harvesting.”


Fall is in the air & the kids are back to school Let us do the cooking. Where you are always treated like family. Chicken, steak, pasta, seafood, salads & sandwiches. Dine-in or carry-out, full bar, large groups, outdoor patio. Only 25 minutes from St. Louis. 255 N to Fosterburg Rd. Exit 13. Super easy to get to. Open at 11am daily for lunch and dinner (Closed Mondays). See our website for August events and specials www.castellis255.com

3400 Fosterburg Rd. • Alton, IL • 618.462.4620 • castellis255.com

Come see us in Historic Downtown Alton! Bossanova Restaurant and Lounge offers a modern hip atmosphere, our James Bond inspired martini list, 60 beers by the bottle and casual American menu with something for everyone. We feature artisan pizzas with our famous in house crust, fresh salads and world inspired entrées. We make biweekly trips to the Alton Farmer's market to source from local suppliers and our Monday $5 pizza is still the best deal in town! There's a lot to see and do in our historic entertainment, retail, loft district of Downtown Alton! Come on over! Mon-Thurs 4pm-2am, Fri-Sat 4pm-3am, Sunday 5pm-2am

restaurant & lounge

112 W. Third St. • Alton • 618.462.1175 • altonbossa.com

Deserves It Because She

We can restyle or custom design your jewelry BRIDAL Contemporary and Vintage Styles DIAMOND JEWELRY Pendants, Earrings & Bracelets LOOSE DIAMONDS Any Shape - Any Size DIAMOND REPLACEMENT Onsite Jewelers While-U-Wait Repairs (most within the hour) WE BUY GOLD

IL: St. ClairSt. Square from Victoria’s Secret) •Heights, Fairview Heights • (618) 624-3900•|The MO:Shoppes The Shoppes CrossKeys Keys ••Florissant, MO MO 63033• •314.839.8100 (314) 839-8100 |• www.jcthejeweler.com Clair(Across Square • Fairview IL • 618.624.3900 at at Cross Florissant, jcthejeweler.com

Oishi in Japanese means Delicious Experience the entertainment and masterful cooking all right in front of you Fresh food prepared daily Oishi has a Lobster Roll which is the “First Lobster roll in Saint Louis.” Great place for Family Entertainment Happy Hour Specials Private Rooms Birthday Specialty

15% off your meal *Must be on Hand and can’t be combined with any other promotional specials. Valid only at the chesterfield location, not including drinks. Expires October 31st, 2012

100 Public Works Dr. Chesterfield, MO • 636-530-1198 • oishistl.com Inspired Food Culture

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The Heart of St. Charles Ballrooms It’s that time again - Time to plan that holiday party! The Heart of St. Charles Ballrooms is a great place to Celebrate your special event. We are well known for our elegant atmosphere and creative menus to impress your Guests. Whether it is Christmas time or anytime, The Heart of St. Charles has just the right Space for you. Our rooms hold from 75 – 500 guests. So, this season call us at 636-947-8270 or go to www.hscballrooms.com.

1410 S. Fifth Street • St. Charles, MO • 636.947.8270 • www.hscballrooms.com

Win a $500 Libbey Glass Shopping Spree! • Submit your drink recipe using a Libby Glass product • Chance to win a $500 Libbey Glass shopping spree at Ford Hotel Supply Company • Top 3 finalists selected will compete in a LIVE bartending demonstration at our "Fall into Ford" show on Monday, Oct. 29th • To register OR for more information, visit us online at www.fordstl.com!

Ford Hotel Supply Company • 314.231.8400 • fordstl.com

Open on Sundays too for Brunch or Dinner! Turkish/Mediterranean food is a cross between Southern European, Greek and Middle Eastern cuisines. Aya Sofia Restaurant and Wine Bar offers a large variety of cold and hot meze (small plates) that are intended to be shared and will complement any of our entrees,including delectable lamb, beef, chicken, and fresh seafood. Lunch: Tues-Fri - Dinner: Tues-Sun - Sunday Brunch Happy Hour: Tues-Fri NIGHTLY DINNER SPECIALS AVAILABLE FOR PRIVATE PARTIES AND CATERING Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine

Known for our meze (small plates) and excellent wine selection

6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis, MO 63109 • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com

20% OFF*Brunch/Lunch & Dinner Now Serving Sunday Brunch 10am to 3pm Now Booking Holiday Parties. Let us cater your next special event. OPEN Monday - Friday 11AM - 2PM for Lunch Monday - Sunday 5PM - Close for Dinner

Expires October 31st, 2012 *Up to 5.00 Off Brunch or Lunch up to $20 Off on Dinner.

10411 Clayton Rd. • Suite III • Frontenac • branicafrontenac.com 28

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gadget a-go-go

Put to the test

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ice cream

SCOOPS written by Pat Eby

Product Photography by Laura Ann Miller

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OXO Ice Cream Spade PROS

Use this spade to pack softer gelato, sorbet and granita into cups. The flat shape works fast to fill pie shells and build cake layers of softened ice cream. Lift and turn just-churned homemade ice cream before its final freeze to distribute add-ins and chunks evenly throughout. CONS

Don’t expect to shape spheres with a paddle. Hand-wash only and then dry immediately with a soft towel to prevent spotting and discoloration. $9.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, kitchencopia.com

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Animal House Whale Ice Cream Spade PROS

Rounded points on the bowl slip easily into the hardest ice cream to roll a solid ball in no time. Those same points work ice cream from the corners of containers. Even after repeated use, ice cream releases without an assist. The clever triangular handle and thumb rest support fingers, hand and wrist comfortably with minimal wrist twist. Dishwasher-safe. CONS

No hanging hole, but this item works so well you won’t begrudge the loss of drawer space. $9.99; Pier 1 Imports, multiple locations, pier1.com

Vollrath ColorCoded Portion Control Disher, Orchid PROS

Roll tiny balls of rich ice cream perfect for the calorie-conscious with this stainless-steel professional disher. Sweep them out of the bowl with the push of a geared lever. The fat, ridged handle also sports a solid finger stop. Vollrath scoops come in larger sizes and colors, but this mini-version dispenses sweet little tastes, pronto. CONS

The only scoop tested that lefties can’t easily operate. $10.73; Session Fixture Co., 6044 Lemay Ferry Road, Oakville, sessionfixtures.com

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| Icecream in bowl shot by ©ISTOCKPHOTO.com/unalozmen

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OXO Stainless Steel Lever Ice Cream Scoop

Zyliss Ice Cream Scoop PROS

PROS

Rubber sides on the handle maintain a comfort grip while the metal shank and supporting collar give this scoop muscle for the icy-hard stuff. The thin leading edge snakes into firm ice cream without a hitch. The lever release works best on firm ice creams. CONS

No thumb grip or finger stop on this model. Softer sherbets and gelato want to hang in the bowl after the release is pushed. $11.99; Bed Bath and Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com

The smoothly machined bowl slides in cleanly to get the ball rolling at a fast clip. The handle, just fat enough to keep arthritic knuckles and fingers happy, narrows to a nice thumb rest just under the head. We like the cheery pomegranate handle, but aesthetes may prefer the white. A favorite for making beautiful scoops fast. CONS

More a preference than a negative: This tool is weighty. $10.95; Sur la Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com

C h ec

ko pa g u t e

W h at to l ook for : Materials: Ice cream delivery devices of lightweight plastic, aluminum, stainless steel, chrome over metal and plastic/metal combinations sit on gadget shelves, waiting to confuse customers. Avoid cheap plastic, no matter how pretty the translucent colors sparkle, unless you’re scooping soft serve. Look for heavier-gauge metals and smooth leading edges on the bowls.

Bowl Shape: Half-sphere dishers deliver balls or bombes in sizes from 2 tablespoons up. Ovals roll ice creams – even the chunky ones – into comely rounds. Use the flat paddles to shape ice cream cakes, bombes and domes with ease. Paddle hybrids have corners, edges or points to glide into corners and edges of containers. Check for gouges on edges, especially if the scoops are piled in a bin.

Handle: Cush and comfort matter when you plunge a utensil into rock-hard ice cream. Expect to twist and turn wrists and hands as you pull your favorite flavor into a perfect snowball; grip is important. Two salespeople advised against cone-shaped hollow handles (usually found on tools priced under $4) because the handle can snap from stress.

Release Action: Scoops and paddles count on gravity to deliver the ice cream to cone or cup. Dishers employ spring levers and a metal sweep to push out the ice cream. Some use a lever action to aid in release. Most servers tested released the first two or three pieces easily; some models needed a prod from a spoon as ice cream built up on the surface of the bowl.

36! Pick your favorite scoop and start dishing up homemade ice cream. No ice cream machine? No problem. Check out How To for a clever new trick. Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

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ON the shelf

BEER written by Michael Sweeney

The creator of STLHops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

Kirkwood Station Brewing Co.’s Oatmeal Stout STYLE: Oatmeal Stout (6.2% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Kirkwood Station Brewing Co., 105 E. Jefferson Ave., Kirkwood, kirkwoodstationbrewing.com; $5 (20-oz draught) Pairings: Seared steak tips • Chocolate bread pudding

October usually means two things to me: cool weather and baseball. Some of my fondest baseball memories come from watching the Cardinals in the playoffs while at Kirkwood Station. Cool weather also means that stouts are back in full rotation. At 6.2 percent abv, this roasty, chocolaty stout has a bit more oomph and a fuller body.

Boulevard Brewing Co.’s 80Acre Hoppy Wheat STYLE: American Wheat Beer (5.5% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $6.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) Pairings: Grilled cod • Cambazola

Think of this beer as the feisty big brother of Boulevard’s Unfiltered Wheat. It’s got a bit more alcohol and is bursting with hop flavor and aroma. While it definitely has a touch more bitterness, it still remains light and refreshing. If you’re looking to cut your teeth on some hoppier beers, this is a great way to start.

Green Flash Brewing Co.’s Trippel Ale STYLE: Belgian-style Trippel (9.7% abv) AVAILABLE AT: 33 Wine Shop and Tasting Bar, 1913 Park Ave., Lafayette Square, 33wine.com; $8.50 (22-oz bottle) Pairings: Roasted asparagus • Aged Gouda

American trippels can be some sneaky beers. They tend to be on the sweet side, they tend to be light in body, and they tend to do a good job hiding their high abv. With a big, sweet bubblegum note, Green Flash’s Trippel hits the mark. It’s dangerously delicious, and I would recommend enjoying a bottle with a few friends.

SPIRITS written by Chad Michael George

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

Bols Genever Provenance: Holland (42% abv) Available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $39.99 Try it: As a martini base or in your favorite gin cocktail

Bols, long known in America for its line of inexpensive and sweet liqueurs, has finally brought to our market the resurrection of Lucas Bols’ original recipe for Dutch Genever, which dates back to 1820. Genever was indeed the predecessor to modern-day dry gins, and Bols has long been touted as the best iteration available in this century but is only now available here. Genever works as a sweeter replacement in many classic gin cocktails, including the Negroni, martini and gin and tonic.

Monopolowa Vodka Provenance: Vienna, Austria (40% abv) Available at: Randall’s Wine and Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $12.99 Try it: In your favorite martini recipe

Regular readers of this column know I rarely write about vodka. Monopolowa is the first vodka to catch my attention in a while. Distilled from potatoes and based on a Polish recipe, Monopolowa is now made in Austria. This bottle is as smooth, odorless and flavorless as a vodka gets. It is truly a bargain. In a blind tasting with talented spirits professionals, Monopolowa outshone many vodkas three and four times the price. Save yourself some dollars and buy this gem instead of the big guys on the shelf.

Maurin Quina Liqueur Provenance: France (16% abv) Available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $35.99 Try it: On the rocks with a squeeze of lemon

The Maurin Quina art is much more famous than the liqueur. First produced in 1884, production halted in 1906, and I’m glad to see this long-forgotten spirit back on the shelves. The grape-based spirit is lighter in texture and flavor than other cherry liqueurs. It has a great bitter component, thanks to the quinquina bark used to flavor this tasty, sticky stuff. It is a great substitute to play with in any recipe calling for a cherry liqueur, and very different from both Maraschino and tart-cherry styles.

OUR TOP PICKS FOR OCTOBER Pouring wine photography by ©iStockphoto.com/Lauri Patterson


WINE written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

Anne Amie Cuvée A Amrita 2011 Provenance: Oregon Available at: Randall’s Wine and Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $15.99 Pairings: Shellfish • Spicy Asian entrées

A unique Northwestern blend of 10 grapes, ranging from Riesling and Roussanne to Vermentino and Viognier, this white sees only stainless-steel fermentation. This allows the truest of flavors and aromas to radiate through. Revel in the sweet fragrance of quince and passion fruit before delving into sips of succulent peach and strawberry. Tart lime, fresh minerality and subtle spice round out the finish.

Peillot Bugey Mondeuse 2010 Provenance: Bugey, France Available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, wineandcheeseplace.com; $19.99 Pairings: Game meats • Chicken fajitas • Baked Brie

Do not be scared off by the unfamiliar region of Bugey and relatively unknown grape Mondeuse. Part of the fun in wine is the discovery of new things. This red exemplifies qualities similar to those of Syrah – with dark berry and plum flavors and peppery notes – and falls in the medium-bodied category of Pinot Noir, with the minimal tannic structure of Beaujolais. This wine’s intrinsic and undeniable acidity begs for a food pairing.

Guardian Cellars The Wanted Red Blend 2009 Provenance: Columbia Valley, Wash. Available at: St. Louis Wine Market & Tasting Room, 164 Chesterfield Commons E., Chesterfield, stlwinemarket.com; $38 Pairings: Roast beef • Turkey chili • Calzones

A perfect example of why Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc are thriving in the Washington state terroir. This blend of the two grapes is bursting with juicy cherry and raspberry while hinting at notes of cocoa and tobacco. The generous nature of Cabernet Sauvignon finds finesse with the addition of Cab Franc, resulting in an elegant quaffing wine for the coming cool season.

Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

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mystery shopper

Milk Oolong Panna Cotta with Peach Topping By Michael Miller, Kitchen Kulture

Creamy panna cotta laced with star anise showcases the flavor of the tea. Soft, sweet peaches; vibrant mint; and an unexpected pop from the rice wine vinegar are perfect complements. Serves | 4 | 200 bloom gelatin* ice water heavy cream whole milk granulated sugar, divided star anise milk oolong tea, sealed in a tea bag peaches freshly chopped mint rice wine vinegar

| Preparation | Bloom gelatin in ice water. In a large saucepan, combine cream, milk, ½ cup sugar and star anise. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Add tea packet. Remove pan from heat and let tea steep uncovered for 15 minutes. Add gelatin and water mixture and stir until combined and fully dissolved. Pour evenly into four 1-cup serving dishes. (Coffee cups work well for this dish.) Refrigerate for 2 hours or until set. Just before serving, pit and cut peaches into 1-inch slices. Toss with remaining sugar, mint and rice wine vinegar. Top each panna cotta with peaches and serve. * Sheet gelatin is available online from King Arthur Flour. Powdered gelatin may be substituted, using a conversion ratio of 7 grams of gelatin per 1 cup of liquid.

MEET: Milk Oolong Among tea drinkers, there’s a small but growing number of aficionados giving rise to the cult of milk oolong. PreRevolutionary Bostonians aside, tea drinkers seem an unlikely bunch to get jacked up about their beverage. So what about milk oolong tea inspires such adoration and (gasp!) passion? Poking around various tea blogs and forums uncovers that there is devotion and dispute brewing in this sedate world.

Stop by 32

feastSTL.com

Written by Erik Jacobs

What is it?

How do I use it?

As the name implies, milk oolong presents with

As with any agricultural product, there are natural

tastes and aromas of dairy, with a creamy texture

variations in quality and supply, which causes

on the tongue. More specifically, the flavor recalls

the price of milk oolong to be generally higher.

buttery sweetened condensed milk with definite

Cheaper versions of milk oolong rely on artificial

caramel notes. As it is an oolong tea (more

flavor for the milk essence, but lovers of the “true

oxidized than green tea but not as much as black),

moo” generally disdain such shortcuts. Milk oolong

it retains a somewhat fruity and floral character

is packaged mainly in loose-leaf form. To properly

and contains about 25 percent of the caffeine

prepare a cuppa, pour 6 ounces of filtered boiling

found in a similarly sized cup of coffee. Milk oolong

water over 1 teaspoon of dry leaves and steep

is grown only at higher elevations, in certain

for approximately 5 to 7 minutes. The intensity

regions of Asia, and then only when a perfect

of naturally processed milk oolong allows for

storm of meteorological conditions occurs.

multiple infusions from the same leaves.

to pick up more delicious recipes featuring milk oolong. Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations. OCTOBER 2012

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg

3 sheets 2 cups 2 cups ½ cup ½ cup + 1 Tbsp 1 whole 1 tsp 2 2 Tbsp 2 tsp

check it out!

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33


tECH SCHOOL

Homemade Root Beer STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassy Vires

The history and culture of food fascinate me, but I can’t limit myself to just food when there is such a rich and intriguing history behind beverages as well. I’m not referring to cocktails or infusions; I’m talking about creating something from scratch. Something with as much charm, science and history as salt (one of my favorite ingredients). I’m talking about root beer. Root beer was initially sold as a drink and elixir, with claims that it could cleanse the blood and make cheeks rosy. A pharmacist named Charles Hires is often credited with inventing root beer. While Hires might deserve credit for popularizing and perhaps perfecting the frothy beverage, he certainly did not invent it.

Variations of root beer can be traced back to medieval times, as water was often not potable; people would boil it with herbs, barks and spices and then ferment the beverage to keep it from spoiling. This was a popular method of creating an inexpensive and safe drink during the Colonial era as well. Indigenous plants gave European settlers ample choices for flavoring their beers, and soon Hires created and mass-marketed what we now know as root beer. Naturally, root beer got its name from the fact that so many roots were used in making it, but controversy has surrounded one root in particular. Sassafras root, the main flavoring ingredient in root beer, emits an oily liquid called safrole. While safrole occurs naturally in many spices and herbs, it got the attention of the FDA in the 1960s for being a carcinogen. It is now accepted that in small doses, safrole causes no risk, but large-scale manufacturers long ago replaced it with wintergreen leaves and never returned to the original flavoring agent. In fact, most commercially produced root beers no longer contain any roots, herbs or spices but rather artificial flavorings and sugars. This means that few people in the past 40 years have likely tasted true root beer. All the more reason to try your own hand at it. Most of the ingredients for root beer are rare, but they can easily be purchased online or at a local specialty spice and herb shop. The oddest ingredient will be the starter. While I prefer kefir starter culture, ginger bug or fresh whey can also be used. The kefir starter can be easily found in organic markets, or you can opt to make your own ginger bug or whey. All produce fantastic results, and you will never turn back to mass-produced root beer again.

Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen. She received her culinary training in Houston and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

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OCTOBER 2012

Root Beer You’ll have to go beyond your usual grocery store aisles to find these ingredients, but it is certainly worth the time and effort to enjoy an all-natural and authentic root beer. To make a classic root beer float, simply add a scoop of your favorite vanilla ice cream, or turn to p. 36 for a quick and easy way to make ice cream at home. Yield | 6 cups | 1½ qts ½ cup ¼ cup ¼ cup 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 tsp 1 1 cup 1 packet

water sassafras root bark wintergreen leaves sarsaparilla root licorice root ginger root dandelion root hops flowers birch bark wild cherry tree bark juniper berries cinnamon stick brown sugar kefir starter culture

| Preparation | In a large pot, bring the water to a boil. | 1 | Add the sassafras root bark through the cinnamon stick and simmer on low heat for 1 hour. | 2 | Remove from heat and strain through a fine-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth or a coffee filter. While the liquid is still hot, add the brown sugar and stir until completely dissolved. Allow to cool to room temperature. | 3 | Once cool, stir in the starter culture and pour into a bottle or jar with an airtight seal, leaving at least 1 inch of space at the top.

Place the bottle or jar in a cool, dark place and let ferment at room temperature for 3 days. Move the bottles to the refrigerator and ferment for an additional 3 days.

| 4 | Take care when opening, as the contents have been under pressure and may fizz up or even explode. Open the jars slowly over a sink, pour into drinking glasses and enjoy. Note: All specialty ingredients in this recipe can be purchased at Cheryl’s Herbs, 7170 Manchester Road, Suite A, Maplewood, cherylsherbs.com.


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PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

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OCTOBER 2012

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how to

how to Cover Your Bases

Make Ice Cream Without the Machine

There are countless delicious recipes for ice cream that use a variety of ingredients. Find a recipe that intrigues you and create your base. If your recipe calls for heavy cream, however, set it aside for the moment and make the base without it. We’ll

written by Brandon Chuang

There’s no denying that pie season is upon us. And while pie is fantastic in its own right, anyone worth his or her ice cream scooper knows that it’s always better á la mode. From-scratch ice cream is easy to make and oh-so-good, but many home cooks reach for the prepackaged pint simply to avoid yet another bulky single-use machine cluttering up the kitchen. So we offer a nifty trick for making homemade ice cream in your food processor that’ll have you whipping up your own versions of this delicious frozen favorite all year long.

explain why later.

Ice Cream, Cubed A common result of making ice cream at home is the formation of ice crystals. The reason for this is twofold: 1) Water turns into ice when frozen, and 2) ice crystals form over time. Ever notice that the gallons of soup you freeze tend to have a layer of ice crystals form on them? That’s because the soup is water-based, and it takes longer to freeze larger amounts of liquid. The longer it takes for something to freeze, the more time the water in the product has to crystallize. A smart solution we found to be extremely effective comes from Serious Eats’ J. Kenji López-Alt. | 1 | After making your ice cream base, pour it into ice cube trays and freeze until solid, about four hours. The smaller surface area allows the ice cream to freeze faster and virtually eliminates the formation of ice crystals and the dreaded problem of watery ice cream.

It’s All About the Process | 2 | Dump the frozen ice cream cubes into your food processor and add the heavy cream that was originally called for in the recipe. Process the cubes with the heavy cream until completely smooth, about 30 seconds. | 3 | Pour the mixture into a freezer-safe container, cover and freeze for at least four hours before serving. By leaving out the heavy cream until the end, you’re lessening the amount of water that has to be frozen in the first place, which further aids in eliminating ice crystals. Processing the cream with the frozen base also aerates the mixture, creating a light and creamy dessert that’s better than most anything you could pick up in the freezer section.

As you can tell, the biggest challenge with making homemade ice cream is to eliminate as much water as possible to ensure limited ice crystal formation. Along with holding the heavy cream until the end, replace the milk in your recipe with evaporated milk. Not only will this remove a lot of excess water, but it will lead to a creamier, more delicious result. 36

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OCTOBER 2012

Illustration by Derek Bauman

Evaporate It


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EASY EATS

Savoring Fall Squash Story and recipe by Lucy Schnuck

JOIN US!

When people think of recipes that use pumpkin, they usually think of pumpkin pie. Makes sense, but this versatile vegetable, with its mildly sweet, earthy flavor, is great in savory dishes too. Try this delicious fall risotto using fresh pumpkin. It’s an unusual combination, and it’s perfect for a dinner party or a special night at home.

rsvp:

cooks.com schnucks 704 or 314.909.1 Serves | 4 to 6 | 4 2 Tbsp + 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp + 1 Tbsp 1/8 cup + ½ cup 1/8 tsp 1/8 tsp 1 2 1 tsp 8 cups 2 cups 1/3 cup ½ cup 2 tsp

small pumpkins kosher salt grape seed oil, divided unsalted butter, divided minced shallots, divided ground allspice ground nutmeg cinnamon stick whole cloves ground white pepper vegetable or chicken stock arborio rice Riesling grated Parmigiano- Reggiano chopped sage

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400°F. Remove the top of each pumpkin and hollow them by scooping out the meat

and discarding the seeds. Place flesh in a bowl and then place the hollowed pumpkins on a baking sheet. Lightly oil and salt the inside and outside of each pumpkin and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until tender but not wilted. Remove from oven and cool. Meanwhile, chop the pumpkin flesh into small dice. Bring a medium sauté pan to medium heat and add 2 Tbsp grape seed oil and 1 Tbsp butter. Cook the pumpkin and 1/8 cup minced shallots until tender. Season with salt. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Process half the mixture in a food processor until smooth. Set aside. Add the allspice, nutmeg, cinnamon stick, cloves and white pepper to a small pot with the stock. Heat until

|

CHEF’S

steaming and then reduce heat to low. Bring a large heavy-bottomed pot to medium heat. Add remaining grape seed oil and butter to pan. When the butter is bubbly, add the remaining shallots. Cook until translucent. Add the rice and sauté for a few minutes until you can hear the rice slightly sizzling. Deglaze the pan with Riesling and cook until almost entirely evaporated. Add ½ cup of seasoned stock and stir until absorbed. Continue to add stock and stir until the rice is cooked through, about 20 minutes. Be sure not to overcook the rice. Stir the puréed pumpkin and Parmigiano-Reggiano into the rice, and then fold in the sautéed pumpkin. Place the finished risotto into the hollowed pumpkins and top with sage. Rewarm in the oven for 5 minutes and serve.

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Pumpkin in a pinch. If you can’t find fresh pumpkin, you can use canned pumpkin in place of the purée. Be sure to keep tasting as you add it, though, because canned pumpkin can be very sweet.

Join FEAST and Schnucks Cooking School on Wed., Oct. 24, at 6pm to make the tasty dishes in the menu above. Tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RSVP at schnuckscooks.com. PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

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feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2012

Boosting your stock. To intensify the flavor of the stock, add hearty vegetables such as onion, celery and carrot and simmer for about 30 minutes. Then simply strain the stock, add the spices and proceed with the recipe. Always be sure the stock is hot before you add it to the risotto. Adding cold or room-temperature stock will slow down the cooking process and result in unevenly cooked rice. Taking cues. Before you add the rice to the pan, it is opaque. As it sautés, you’ll hear a slight crackling sound. That’s a good thing. Next you’ll notice the rice turning translucent at the ends of each grain. When it becomes about 70 percent translucent, it’s time to add the liquid.


Monty's Sandwich Company Where the Sandwich is King - Our meats are roasted and smoked in-house from only the finest cuts to create the best sandwiches in St. Louis. - We use Missouri raised pork and locally baked breads. - Award winning made from scratch soups - Boxed lunches for meetings and large groups - Catering for game day, parties and special events - Open for breakfast and lunch 6 days a week. Located on the corner of Broadway and Olive Downtown. Hours 8am-3pm, Mon-Sat, Closed on Sundays

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Voted Best new restaurant in Chesterfield... Come and enjoy the New Menu created by Chef Kevin Taylor.savory new fresh flavors and a great selections of wines to enjoy these new creations. Live Jazz R&B every Saturday on the Patio, check website for more details. Come join us for Sunday Brunch - 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Bon Apetite WI-FI available. Well lit area, Beautiful Patio!

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Now Open in St. Peters Missouri Shamrocks is a Family owned Irish/American Pub in Saint Peters. We offer a wide variety of food options on our menu which has both delicious Pub food and Homemade Traditional Irish Comfort Food. Book your holiday parties and catering with Shamrocks. Call 636.939.2000 and let us cater your holiday party. Happy Hour Everyday from 3PM-7PM All-you-can-eat Lunch Buffet for only $7.99!

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Simply the best Steaks and Seafood Kreis’ serves the finest USDA Prime Mid Western Corn-fed Beef,aged four to six weeks in house. We offer an extensive choice of the classic Steak Cuts and Seafood including our famous Prime Rib. Simply the best available-Top 2%. As well as Colorado Lamb Chops, the best you can buy!

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OCTOBER 2012

39


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OCTOBER 2012

41


ultimate homestyle dishes Edited by Brandi Wills

Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

When you truly master a recipe, it becomes part of your culinary repertoire ‒ the thing you're asked to serve at parties, on special occasions and during the holidays. We asked local chefs, home cooks and food bloggers to share the dishes they're known for among family and friends, plus how to tweak them so you can create your own signature dish.

Potato Dauphinoise with Chive Blossom and Shaved Truffles By Carl McConnell, Stone Soup Cottage

Serves | 4 | 16 1 oz ½ 2 cloves 1 tsp ¼ cup 2 cups 1/3 cup 2 Tbsp 4

assorted baby potatoes, washed clarified butter shallot, minced garlic, slivered finely chopped fresh thyme Sauvignon Blanc heavy cream salt and freshly ground white pepper shredded Gruyère black truffle peelings fresh thyme or chive blossoms

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 375ºF. Boil the baby potatoes in salted water until al dente. Drain and set aside. In a saucepot, heat clarified butter over medium heat. Add shallot, garlic and thyme. Sauté until shallot is translucent. Add wine and cream. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Do not overseason; the cream will reduce when baked, therefore concentrating flavors. Bring to a simmer and remove from heat. Halve the potatoes lengthwise and place them in a baking dish. Pour cream over the potatoes and cover with foil. Bake for 30 minutes or until the cream has thickened. Remove foil and cover the potatoes with Gruyère. Turn the oven setting to broil and cook until the cheese begins to brown. Garnish with truffle peelings and thyme or chive blossoms and serve.

carl's notes: For the best

flavors, start with fresh ingredients. If you have a garden, pick your potatoes that day. Fresh summer truffles are a key ingredient for the ultimate version of this dish. They have a subtle nuttiness that doesn’t overpower the other flavors and adds elegance to the potato dauphinoise. When summer truffles aren’t available, you can use black truffle peelings. To create more complex flavors, add sautéed local mushrooms to the dish or finish it with some white truffle oil on top. Experiment with plating for a spin on presentation. Try serving portions of this dish in tiny vessels with lids and opening them table-side for a personalized experience.


Green Bean Casserole By Kevin Willmann, Farmhaus Restaurant

Serves | 4 to 6 | Crispy Onions

1 cup buttermilk ¼ cup Crystal hot sauce 1 onion, finely julienned oil for frying 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 Tbsp kosher salt Casserole 1 lb fresh green beans, trimmed and cleaned sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 12 oz shiitake and oyster mushrooms, roughly chopped 2 Tbsp olive oil ½ yellow onion, finely diced 1 Tbsp vegetable oil 2 Tbsp butter, cubed 2 Tbsp all-purpose flour 1 quart whole milk 1 tsp ground nutmeg 1 Tbsp kosher salt 1 herb sachet (fresh thyme, bay leaves, sage, rosemary)

| Preparation – Crispy Onions | In a mixing bowl, combine buttermilk and hot sauce. Add onion and soak at least 1 hour. Heat oil in a large pot to 250ºF. In a separate bowl, combine the flour and salt. Strain the onions and dredge them in the flour mixture. Shake off excess flour. Fry the onions until crispy, about 25 to 30 minutes. Set aside on a plate lined with paper towels.

| Preparation – Casserole | Place a cookie sheet in the oven and preheat to 450ºF. Toss mushrooms with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on the preheated cookie sheet and roast until caramelized, turning once to cook evenly. In a large bowl, prepare an ice water bath. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. It should be as salty as the ocean. Blanch the green beans for 2 minutes. Remove immediately to the ice water bath. Peel the beans apart lengthwise after they have cooled and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the onion and vegetable oil to a 2-quart saucepot and sweat the onion over medium heat. Add butter and cook until melted. Add the flour, stirring often to prevent burning. Cook until flour is golden-brown. Add the milk ½ cup at a time, whisking to fully incorporate each addition. Add nutmeg, salt and herb sachet. Reduce heat to low and cook for 5 to 10 minutes or until thickened. Remove sachet and add reserved mushrooms.

| To Assemble | Preheat oven to 350ºF. In a deep casserole dish, assemble the béchamel with mushrooms and the green beans in layers. Bake for 15 minutes. Garnish with crispy onions and serve.

kevin's notes:

I love this recipe because we’re taking a Campbell can classic and making all the components from scratch. My signature touches are the hot sauce-flavored crispy onions and the roasted fresh mushrooms, which add depth of flavor. Make this recipe your own by subbing in your favorite mushrooms or using pencil-thin asparagus instead of green beans. If you don’t want to get the fryer out, try finishing the casserole with crushed Funyuns or flavored croutons for another take on the fried-onion topping.

COOKING VIDEO! Scan the tag to watch chef Kevin Willmann make his green bean casserole or watch the video at feastSTL.com. Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

45


Fried Chicken By Clara Moore, Local Harvest Cafe and Catering

Yield | 10 pieces | 1 2½ cups 6 6 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 3 cups 1 cup 2 tsp

whole chicken, rinsed well and cut into 10 pieces buttermilk, divided eggs salt, divided freshly ground black pepper unbleached flour yellow mustard powder, such as Coleman’s ground cayenne lard or peanut oil

| Preparation | Place the chicken in 2 cups buttermilk and soak 1 to 12 hours. In a large bowl, whisk remaining buttermilk with eggs, 2 Tbsp salt and pepper. In a separate bowl, mix together flour, mustard powder, cayenne and remaining salt. Set a thickbottomed pot, such as a cast-iron Dutch oven, over medium heat and fill with 2 inches of lard or oil. Using the clean hand method*, dip the chicken pieces in the wet ingredients first and then the dry ingredients and then back in the wet ingredients. Dip all pieces before proceeding. Once the oil reaches about 350ºF (or when a test piece of chicken bubbles quickly), carefully place just enough pieces of chicken in the pan to cover the bottom. Be sure not to crowd the chicken. Flip the pieces as necessary and fry until golden-brown. Remove and place on a plate lined with paper towels. Once the pieces are done frying, keep them warm in a 200ºF oven. * The clean hand method: Use one hand in the dry ingredients and the other hand in the wet ingredients to reduce batter buildup on your digits.

clara's notes:

It’s undeniable that fried chicken is an American classic, with innumerable variations on what is a pretty simple dish. My version is almost exactly as my mother made it (I added mustard powder for another dimension of savory flavor), but the secrets to making really great fried chicken are in the ingredients and the technique. Start with a pasture-raised, hormone-free chicken – preferably one that is slaughtered on-site or by a small slaughterhouse (these operations tend to be cleaner and safer). The buttermilk should be of good quality and the eggs should be farm-fresh with beautiful yolks, as these ingredients add a ton of moisture and flavor to the chicken. Last but not least, I use lard to fry my chicken. Nutritionally, lard has more available vitamins (including the best source of vitamin D) and less saturated fat than most cooking oils. It has a higher smoke point than other fats, too, which means you can cook the chicken at a higher temperature, allowing it to absorb less grease. The batter recipe and frying techniques in this recipe are amazingly universal. Use them to fry zucchini, fish, onions, pickles or broccoli. You can put your spin on the flavor of your batter by adding chile powder, Italian herbs, curry powder or Old Bay seasoning to the flour mixture. You can play with the texture by adding flaxseed or cornmeal as well. This fried chicken is great the next day, perfect for packing in a picnic basket or a lunchbox. I like to serve it with creamy potato salad, sautéed greens, cornbread and pickles.

COOKING VIDEO! Scan the tag to watch chef Clara make her fried chicken or watch the video at feastSTL.com. Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

47


Ultimate Meatballs By Stephanie Tolle, aka Iron Stef, chairmanstef.blogspot.com

Yield | About 36 meatballs | 1 lb 1 lb 1 1 3 Tbsp 1 tsp 4 cloves 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 4 oz 1 cup 2 1 cup

ground beef ground pork salt and freshly ground black pepper onion, minced shallot, minced olive oil, plus more for oiling baking dish Chinese 5-spice garlic, minced chopped fresh basil chopped fresh oregano baguette or other white bread, crust removed whole milk eggs freshly grated Parmesan

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 425ºF. Place the beef and pork in a mixing bowl. Season liberally with salt and mix together with your hands until well-combined. Set aside. Cook the onion and shallot in olive oil over medium heat until caramelized. Add Chinese 5-spice and cook another minute. Add the garlic and cook another minute. Remove from heat and stir in the basil and oregano. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside to cool. Tear the bread into small pieces and place in a bowl with the milk. Soak for 10 minutes. Gently squeeze the excess milk from the bread and place the bread in the bowl with the meat. Add the cooled onion mixture, eggs and cheese. Mix with your hands until everything is well-combined. Coat two 9x13-inch baking dishes with olive oil. Form the meat mixture into golf ball-sized balls and place in the oiled baking dishes, making sure they do not touch each other. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes and then turn the meatballs and cook another 10 to 12 minutes, until browned and cooked through. Serve over pasta or polenta with your favorite marinara or Alfredo sauce. These are also great as an appetizer or on a sandwich.

stephanie's notes:

On my blog, I have declared 2012 “The Year of the Balls.” I think meatballs and other ball-shaped foods are poised to be the next big food trend. Meatballs should be meaty, obviously, but also moist and with a light texture. In this recipe, the combo of pork and beef provides the right amount of fat to make the meatballs juicy. The milk-soaked bread both binds and adds moisture. The eggs help lighten the texture with a bit of fluff. Chinese 5-spice is my secret ingredient. It adds a bit of sweetness and overall depth of flavor, plus a little je ne sais quoi. As with any recipe, once you know the basic techniques, you can begin to experiment with it. If you want to make these into turkey or chicken meatballs, just sub in ground turkey thighs or chicken thighs. There should be very little loss of moisture because you still have the eggs, milk and bread. If you want to use ground turkey breast, you will sacrifice some moisture because breast meat has much less fat. Adding more onion or other vegetables, such as spinach, will provide more moisture and nutrients. Give the meatballs an Indian bent by subbing lamb for the beef, adding curry powder and serving them in a curry sauce over rice. Or go Greek with lamb and mint, and serve them in a pita with yogurt sauce. For an Asian flavor, keep the Chinese 5-spice, omit the herbs and use the meatballs in a simple stir-fry with veggies and oyster sauce.

Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

49


Caramel Apple Cheesecake By Kendele Noto, J. Noto Bakery

Yield | one 9-inch round cheesecake | Crust

1½ cups ½ cup 1 tsp ½ cup

vegetable shortening, for greasing finely ground graham cracker crumbs firmly packed light brown sugar ground cinnamon melted unsalted butter

Cheesecake 32 oz cream cheese, softened

1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 cup 5 1 ½ cup 2 tsp 1 Topping 1

1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 2 Tbsp

cornstarch ground cinnamon firmly packed light brown sugar eggs, at room temperature egg yolk, at room temperature heavy whipping cream vanilla extract Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and diced

Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and diced lemon juice butter brown sugar

| Preparation – Crust | Grease a 9-inch springform pan with shortening. Mix remaining ingredients together and press evenly into the bottom of the pan. Refrigerate crust.

| Preparation – Cheesecake | Preheat oven to 350ºF. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the cream cheese, cornstarch, cinnamon and brown sugar. Beat on medium speed until combined. Add the eggs and egg yolk one at a time, mixing on low speed and incorporating each egg slowly. Stir in the heavy cream, vanilla extract and apple. Pour the mixture over the refrigerated crust and level the top with a spatula. Bake for 15 minutes. Lower the oven temperature to 275ºF and bake for 1½ hours or until cake is set. Remove from oven and cool inside the pan for 30 minutes. | Preparation – Topping | Add all ingredients to a saucepan set over medium heat. Cook until apples are tender. Remove from heat and cool for 5 minutes. Pour mixture on top of cheesecake. Refrigerate cheesecake for at least 1 hour. Remove from pan and serve.

kendele's notes:

Cheesecakes are hard to master. Starting with a solid recipe that has the correct ratios of ingredients can be a major help. But it’s not just following the recipe; technique is also very important. The entire baking process, from when it goes into the oven to when it hits the plate, makes a big difference in the outcome. Make sure to read through the recipe first and mind your measurements, temperatures and times, and this recipe will give you a great end result. I’ve taken my vanilla cheesecake recipe and added two main flavors to it ‒ caramel and apple ‒ along with a few other ingredients to enhance them. When creating recipes, I like to incorporate ingredients that complement each other. You can create your own variation by substituting pears for the apples or playing with the size of the cake. If you’re hosting a dinner party, try portioning the recipe into individual ceramic ramekins. The cheesecake will take no time to bake (just until the cheese is set), plus you can serve it in the same ceramic ramekins you baked it in.

Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

51


Vegan Blueberry-Peach Crumb Pie By Reine Bayoc, SweetArt Bakery

Serves | 6 to 8 | Crumb Topping 1½ cups spelt flour

1 tsp ½ tsp ½ cup ½ cup ½ cup ½ tsp Pie 4 cups

2 ½ tsp ½ tsp ¾ cup 4 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 1 2 Tbsp

baking powder cinnamon slivered almonds coconut oil brown sugar almond extract

blueberries, rinsed and drained, divided large white peaches, sliced ¼-inch thick orange zest ground cinnamon maple syrup cornstarch water 9-inch vegan pie crust vegan butter substitute, diced into tiny pieces

| Preparation – Crumb Topping | Combine the flour, baking powder, cinnamon and almonds in a mixing bowl and set aside. In a small pot set over medium heat, gently warm the coconut oil for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the brown sugar and stir to combine. Remove from heat and add the almond extract. Add the wet mixture to the dry mixture and combine gently with your fingers to form small crumbles. Set aside.

| Preparation – Pie | Preheat oven to 350ºF. Place 3 cups blueberries and peach slices in a large bowl. Fold in the orange zest and cinnamon and set aside. Place a small pot over medium heat and add remaining blueberries and maple syrup. Bring to a boil. Stir the blueberries so that some burst and begin to color the syrup. In a small bowl, combine the cornstarch and water to make a slurry. Add the slurry to the pot and stir constantly until the mixture thickens. Pour the mixture over the blueberries and peach slices and stir to combine well. Add the fruit to an unbaked pie shell, dot the top with the vegan butter and add the crumb topping to finish. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes. Let cool for 1 hour before serving. This pie is even better topped with vegan ice cream or whipped cream.

reine's notes: Every Sunday

we make a family dessert at home, and nothing is better than my Vegan Blueberry-Peach Crumb Pie. Vegan food gets such a bad rap, but when I make this pie at home for family and friends, all are surprised that it can be vegan and taste so good.

What makes this a great recipe isn’t the ingredients or the technique. It’s a go-to dessert because it’s not complicated or demanding, so you don’t have to invest too much time in the kitchen when you have family and friends you’d rather be with. And at the same time, it always impresses (and brings smiles to my children’s faces). You can create your own version by using all blueberries or come up with your own combo of fruits such as raspberries and peaches, blueberries and cherries, or cherries and apricots. Use whatever fruit combination you like. And if you have unbleached flour instead of spelt flour, use it! Butter instead of coconut oil or vegan butter? Use it! Just get in the kitchen and create; that's where the beauty comes into play.

Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

53


ultimate recipes Quinoa-Stuffed Peppers

Great Grilled Meats

Oil-Free Garlic Hummus

By Stacy Anderson, everylittlethingblog.com

By Rob Uyemura, YaYa’s Eurocafe

By Caryn Dugan, STLVegGirl

Serves | 4 |

Serves | 6 to 8 |

Yield | 3 cups |

1 cup 2 cups 2 tsp 4 1 cup ½ 1 cup 2 Tbsp ½ cup

to 2 jars 1 1 lb 2 lbs 1 to 2 jars

2 2 cloves 2 Tbsp 2 to 3 Tbsp ¼ cup

uncooked quinoa chicken broth or vegetable broth cumin medium bell peppers chopped spinach onion, chopped grated Parmesan or crumbled Feta, divided extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling salt and freshly ground black pepper Panko bread crumbs

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400°F. Rinse quinoa using a fine-mesh strainer or paper towel-lined strainer. Add to a stock pot with broth and cumin. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Fluff with fork and set aside. Slice the top off each pepper and clean out the insides. In a large bowl, combine the cooked quinoa, spinach, onion, ¾ cup of the cheese and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Place the peppers in an 8x8-inch or 9x9-inch casserole dish and stuff each pepper with the quinoa mixture. Combine bread crumbs with the remaining cheese and sprinkle onto the top of each pepper. Drizzle the top and sides of each pepper with olive oil and bake for 50 to 60 minutes. If the top starts to brown faster than the pepper, cover with foil. Cool for 5 minutes before serving.

Korean barbecue marinade or preferred seasoning pork sausages beef, poultry or fish salsa, relish or dipping sauce

| Preparation | Prepare grill for two-zone cooking – coals on one side, nothing on the other. This allows for a hot searing side and a slower-cooking side of the grill. While coals are getting hot, marinate or season the meats. Once the coals are hot, add a few wood chunks and allow the wood to burn until smoke subsides. Sear sausages on the hot side of grill and then move them to the opposite side to finish cooking through. Once sausages are cooked to desired doneness, remove from the grill. Cut them into bite-sized pieces and serve them with a dipping sauce and toothpicks as an appetizer. Grill remaining meats to serve as your main course. Fattier meats should be cooked in the same manner as the sausages. Lean meats should be cooked over the hot side of the grill until they reach the desired doneness. Serve grilled meats with your choice of salsas, relishes or sauces.

14-oz cans garbanzo beans, preferably Eden brand garlic tahini Bragg Liquid Aminos juice of ½ lemon vegetable broth, plus more as needed

| Preparation | Purée all ingredients in a blender or food processor until smooth. Start with ¼ cup vegetable broth and add more until desired consistency is reached. Keeps well in an airtight glass container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

caryn's notes:

Every time I offer to bring a dish to a party or event, people always request this hummus. What makes it different? I don’t add any oil. We get enough oil every day in one form or another. Many people think they need to add oil for creaminess, but that comes naturally from tahini paste. Another unique ingredient is the Bragg Liquid Aminos – it tastes like soy sauce and takes the place of salt. I also add vegetable broth in place of

rob's notes: While

stacy's notes:

grilling meats for a crowd of people may seem

Traditional stuffed peppers filled with rice and

way I involve guests in the process that has

ground beef can be a heavy entrée in which

friends and family always asking me to grill

the mild flavors of bell pepper and rice are

for them at their homes. Whenever I get this

completely dominated by the beef and spices.

request, I call ahead to see what they have on

This version subs quinoa for the rice and nixes

hand to cook. I usually go for the most obscure

the ground beef all together, allowing the

or underused items that they have, whether

individual ingredients to shine in a dish that’s

it’s venison my brother-in-law hunted himself

light enough to enjoy with a few sides.

or meat that someone got from a nearby farm.

When I first started cooking, quinoa was not

The meats I cook at home all have some sort

only a word I pronounced incorrectly but

of meaning to me as a cook. It’s all locally

also an ingredient I didn’t know how to work

produced, and I am friends with all the people

with. Once I discovered how easy it was to

who raise it. I have made it a point to try

incorporate in my usual rice dishes – with the

to visit the farms where I get these great

added benefit of a unique flavor you can’t get

products, which makes preparing and eating

from rice – I started throwing it in everything.

them even more special. My reward comes

like a no-brainer, there’s something about the

from being able to share these ingredients One of the best things about this dish is the

and the hard work that went into raising

many adaptations you can make to suit your

them with my friends and family. This makes

family's taste. Don't dig onion? Kick it to the

it the ultimate experience for me.

water for a more robust flavor. You can make this in either a food processor or a blender. If you use your food processor, be sure to mince the garlic cloves before puréeing the hummus, as they won’t incorporate as well as they do in the blender. You can create your own signature version of this recipe by adding soy sauce, tamari or high-quality sea salt in place of the Bragg. And instead of tahini paste, try peanut butter, almond butter or sunflower seed butter to create a low-cal, high-fiber spread for sandwiches. However, if you do this, go easy on the garlic. This hummus recipe is a base for any flavor you’d like to add. Give it a twist with fresh basil, spinach, kale, rosemary, thyme, sundried tomatoes or roasted red pepper. Serve it as a dip or add more liquid to create a salad dressing. A great variation for parties is to add buffalo wing sauce and serve it with celery sticks. The beauty of hummus is its versatility.

curb and up the garlic. Miss the meat? Add

54

beans for extra heartiness without the fat.

The idea of personal connection extends

Can’t stand spinach? You can switch up the

beyond the meats you’re grilling. Sauces and

greens any way you like. For a south-of-the-

relishes are easy to make from items people

border spin, add jalapeño to the filling, stuff

have growing in their backyard or sitting on

it in a poblano pepper and top it off with

their kitchen counter. Quickly throw together a

some cotija cheese. This is a dish that you

pear salsa by substituting pears for tomatoes

can easily adapt to what you and your family

in your favorite pico de gallo recipe, or add

like on the dinner table.

fresh figs to your go-to barbecue sauce recipe.

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2012

JOIN US!

Join FEAST publisher Catherine Neville for an ultimate recipe cooking class at Whole Foods Market on Wed., Oct. 17. Register online at wholefoodsmarket. com/service/register-cooking-class.


2012

BUICK VERANO

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Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

55


a bike and an appetite

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Clay

cruising clayton: 4.5 miles Written by Brandi Wills

|

ton R D

.

St. Louis is on its way to becoming a bike city. From the forward-thinking commuter bicycle center

Get turn-by-turn directions for the Clayton route by scanning this tag with your smart phone or go to goo.gl/maps/8zgxV.

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2012

Photography by Geoff Cardin

Downtown to the plethora of new bike lanes, riding trails and cycling tours cropping up throughout the metro area, two-wheeled transportation is on the rise. Whether you’re looking for a laid-back weekend cruise or an all-day scenic tour, we’ve got a route for you – complete with where to stop along the way for tasty treats and memorable meals.

56


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Stop at Chill Frozen Yogurt for a tasty frozen treat.

End your ride with a glass of wine at Remyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kitchen & Wine Bar.

Hop onto the Metrolink with your bike and ride back to Forest Park.

Park near the DeBaliviere Metrolink stop in Forest Park (youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll take Metrolink back here later) and find a picnic spot. Straub's CWE location is a great place to get provisions.

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7610 Wydown Blvd., Clayton chillfrozenyogurts.com

222 S. Bemiston Ave., Clayton remyskitchen.net

Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

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Start by parking near International Tap House (you'll end your ride back her). There is metered parking at Soulard Market or free on-street spots.

Stop at The Mud House for a hearty breakfast. We suggest the English Breakfast – with eggs, bacon, beans and toast – for lots of protein and carbs!

1711 S. 9th St., Soulard internationaltaphouse.com

2101 Cherokee St., Benton Park West themudhousestl.com

3

4

Cruise through The Patch and see what’s new in this up-andcoming neighborhood. If you need an energy boost, check out the coffee, waffles, ice cream and more at Melt.

Make your way to Salume Beddu and stock up on proteinpacked post-ride treats such as housemade salumi and imported cheeses. Don’t forget some bread and housemade spreads, too!

7700 Ivory St., The Patch facebook.com/meltonivory

3467 Hampton Ave., Lindenwood Park salumebeddu.com

5

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Take a spin through Tower Grove Park and enjoy the colorful autumn setting.

Pedal back to I-Tap for a cold beer to celebrate finishing the ride!

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Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

59


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Park your car at Henry Street Park and ride north to Duke Bakery for some major carboloading with donuts, cannoli, cookies and pastries galore. 819 Henry St., Alton dukebakeryinc.com

60

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OCTOBER 2012

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Stop in Elsah, Ill., for a short break. Lock up your bike and take a stroll through this quaint village to admire its history and architecture.

When you arrive in Grafton, stop for lunch at The Loading Dock. Enjoy a sandwich or tacos with a cold beer on the waterfront.

Hop back on the Great River Road and head back toward Alton.

At the end of this long ride, plop into a chair at Aunt Sam’s and chow down on one of its handcrafted burgers. Don’t leave without getting a slice of pie à la mode!

401 Front St., Grafton graftonloadingdock.com

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Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

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bike from Big Shark Bicycle Co. and a $100 Straub’s gift card to pack a picnic for the outing! Details at feastSTL.com.

easton st.

Special Giveaway! Enter to win a brand-new

piasa st

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61


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the business of Written by Brandon Chuang

|

Photography by Jonathan Gayman

BEER If you’ve spoken to anyone affiliated with a craft brewery

here in St. Louis, you know that it’s the equivalent of speaking to LeVar Burton on Reading Rainbow. In an industry that seems to be doubling by the day, you’d think that breweries would be intimidated by, or at the least not pleased with, the added competition. But the picture they paint is one of fellowship and community. There is no malice, no cutthroat desire to outbrew or out-sell the next guy – just butterflies and unicorns. It’s enough to make even a Disney princess nauseated. Save for the fact that it’s all true. July 13, 2008, is a date that will forever be burned into the collective mind of the St. Louis beer community. It was a typical day by most standards. The Farmer’s Almanac reports that the high for that day was 86°F. The low was 24 degrees less – again, a typical day in St. Louis. The only difference was that July 13, 2008, was “T-Day.” The day that Belgium-based beer conglomerate


InBev agreed to purchase and take over AnheuserBusch. The price for the last great American beer company? $52 billion. “That’s when people started to think twice about ordering Budweiser,” recalls Jake Hafner. Hafner is owner of The Civil Life Brewing Co. Located in a warehouse that straddles the southern edge of the Tower Grove South neighborhood, the brewery is a model for brand minimalism. Swathed in a color that can be described only as beige, The Civil Life had no signage to welcome patrons for its first year in business. And once inside you can spot two, maybe three, actual mentions of the words The Civil Life Brewing Co. After living in New York, where, among other things, he worked at Windows on the World in the World Trade Center, slung high-end wines for one of the city’s largest wine retailers and, oh yeah, graduated from the French Culinary Institute, Hafner came home to St. Louis and opened up 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar in Lafayette Square with his friends Dylan Mosley and Mike Bianco. After a few successful years, Hafner was itching to start something new when he attended a home brew party at Mosley’s house. “There were quite a few people there, and all of them were having a good time,” Hafner says about that night. “That’s when I thought, ‘Why not a brewery?’” A few months later, the idea had taken hold of Hafner, and one day he acted on it. Within an hour, Hafner, who had literally no experience in brewing beer, used his credit card to drop more than $6,000 on a prosumer brewing system. “At the time, it was a bit hasty,” admits the now brewery owner, “but in hindsight, it wasn’t a bad move.” Phil Wymore is the opposite of hasty. He’s unhasty. Sitting down with him, he checks his phone constantly – not out of rudeness or impatience, but the man has things planned to the minute. In this case, a new beer release that he had to host. Coming out of college, Wymore knew exactly what he wanted to do: work in breweries. Granted, that’s what most guys coming out of college want to do, but Wymore had put in the time, working at a local brewery in Columbia, Mo., while he was still in school. While gaining knowledge and valuable experience, he searched up and down I-70 for a brewery job in Missouri. “There was absolutely nothing,” says Wymore.

JAKE HAFNER, The Civil Life Brewing Co. 64

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2012

He eventually landed a job at Goose Island in Chicago, where he quickly moved up the ranks. After a few years, Wymore realized he wanted to open his own brewery. He and his wife were also about to have their first child, so Wymore moved to St. Louis to be closer to family and start Perennial Artisan Ales.


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65


“One of the great things about this city is all of the buildings,” he says about why he chose his space near the Carondelet area in what was previously a Coca-Cola syrup plant. “There are so many older, unused spaces that were perfect for what we wanted to accomplish, and the city offers great incentives to move in and do something with them.” If you drive through the LaSalle Park neighborhood of St. Louis, just south of Downtown, there are definitely areas that could be described as older and unused. But when Kevin Lemp stepped foot into what is now 4 Hands Brewing Co., he knew right away that he had found what he was looking for. “I went into over 40 buildings,” says the president and co-founder of 4 Hands. Like Wymore, Lemp fell in love with craft beer in college. And after a decade of managing craft-beer and wine divisions at the distributor and supplier levels, Lemp decided to follow his dream and open a brewery somewhere in the city. “I wanted to make sure that we were located in the city – no matter how large or small, we wanted to be a piece of the city.” Many share the same sentiment. Multiple breweries, including 4 Hands, Perennial, Civil Life and Urban Chestnut, have opened up within city limits. Considering the amount of space that’s needed to brew beer on a professional level, it seems counterintuitive to not want a location in more open, wider spaces. “I only see positive things with having our business in St. Louis,” explains Lemp. “Soon we could have a different brewery in every neighborhood.” Lemp’s premonition may come true. According to the St. Louis Regional Chamber & Growth Association, the number of breweries that have opened in the city of St. Louis has tripled in the last five years, to nine. If we consider the entire metropolitan area, that number is pushing past 20, and this trend is not just in St. Louis. Microbreweries have been gaining in popularity across the country for more than a decade – but it’s just now that St. Louis is truly feeling the effects. In fact, even with a shrinking beer market, craft-beer sales across the nation have experienced doubledigit growth for the past seven years. According to Beer Advocate, there are 2,126 active breweries in the United States. That’s the most in 125 years. One reason, theorized by David Wolfe of Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., is the shift in preference for goods made closer to home.

Phil Wymore, Perennial Artisan Ales 66

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2012

“[It’s the desire to] support local businesses and local resources,” explains Wolfe. “The unification of local communities; this sentiment marries perfectly with the passion of locally involved craftbeer brewers who brew a beverage that is, at its core, very social and very local in nature.” The locavore movement is well-known across the


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country, with more and more people rising up to stake claims on their city’s wares. And if we give credence to Wolfe’s explanation for why craft beer is experiencing such a boom in growth, won’t this mean that more and more breweries will open their doors? As a result, doesn’t this mean a smaller piece of the pie for each brewery? As the breweries tell it, no. According to Wolfe, craft-beer sales in the United States grabbed 5.7 percent (by volume) of the total beer market in 2011. If he had to guess, he would say that the number for St. Louis craft brewers is closer to 4 percent. This means that breweries aren’t fighting each other for the same piece of pie – they’re fighting the giant corporate breweries for a larger share. And they’re gaining. Walk into any restaurant or bar today, and you can see the change. Establishments that used to have two tap handles – one for Bud, the other for Bud Light – now have four, or eight. More than ever, greater numbers of St. Louis beer drinkers are shifting away from “chain” beers and demanding something different. “It’s not only because of the buyout but because of the accessibility of beer in general,” Hafner rationalizes. “I can afford a world-class beer, but I can’t afford a world-class wine – and that’s true. You may not be able to get that really nice Pinot Noir at the restaurant, but for $5, you can get a pint of great craft beer.” For St. Louisans, it’s not just the fact that you can get great craft beer for a reasonable amount of money; it’s the fact that you can get so many different kinds. Looking at each brewery, it’s surprising how different one is from another, and none of it on purpose. If you let them tell it, each brewery just happened to move into an area of mixed residential and commercial space that didn’t have a brewery nearby. It just so happened that no brewery really overlapped with another in terms of atmosphere or beer selection: Each one just made what it liked. In Greek mythology, they’re known as Moirai – the Fates. Apparently in the St. Louis beer community, it’s called happenstance. Hafner and his motley crew at The Civil Life focus on English-style session beers, which are known for their lower alcohol content. Lower alcohol means a longer drinking “session” with your friends. Civil Life's building is divided into two parts: a production area that takes up approximately 70 percent of the total space and a two-story tasting room covered in wood, bar games and more wood.

Kevin Lemp, 4 Hands Brewing Co. 68

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2012

Conversely, 4 Hands looks like it took a master class in branding from Phil Knight. Everything in the space has a story or reason. Giant plate-glass walls show patrons the production facilities; the tables and chairs are made from reclaimed wood from a Missouri barn; there are countless T-shirts and hats in a wide array of colors and sizes. Even the story of why 4 Hands plucked its brewmaster, Will Johnston, from Goose Island


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to make its self-described “portfolio” of beers is a shining example of fabulous PR. In an effort to improve the craft-beer movement here, Lemp wanted to add someone new to the community versus take someone away from an already-established brewery. David Wolfe and his partner, Florian Kuplent, have carved out their own spot in Midtown. At Urban Chestnut they offer a mix of modern American craft beers with traditional European styles that match their bierhaus-like atmosphere down to the Deutschland-imported beer hall tables and benches. Their goal: a space that celebrates the communal aspect of beer drinking. “Craft brewers brew beer because they are passionate about beer and the communities in which they live and work,” says Wolfe. “Some are more entrepreneurial or more competitive, but at the end of the day, a craft-beer brewer loves beer and brews it to share.” And then, of course, there’s St. Louis Brewery, which makes Schlafly: the craft beer that started it all in St. Louis over two decades ago. It's still making European-style beers the same way it did in 1991 and has expanded to include modern American and innovative styles. In an ironic twist, Schlafly now finds itself as a sort of “big beer maker" in a city

chock-full of young upstarts. But that hasn’t made it lose its craft-beer mentality.

and New York. Over the summer, it received the designation of Beer of the Month by the Chicago Tribune.

“St. Louis had 40 breweries at the time of Prohibition,” Schlafly co-founder Dan Kopman says about the area’s rich brewing past. “The number declined to one, and when we opened, it made two. Now there is a unique community, embracing the history and tradition while moving forward with innovation. A lot of other American cities that are thought of as ‘beer towns’ embrace the new and reject the past. St. Louis is a beer town [in the heart of the Midwest]. We don’t have mountains and oceans. St. Louisans want the beer gardens and taprooms, and they’ll support it.”

“We want to continue making beers that really push the envelope of creativity and excellence in brewing,” says Wymore. “We want to become a small regional craft brewery.” St. Louis’ craft brewers embrace the community by building relationships through things like 4 Hands’ smoked-porter collaboration with Pappy’s Smokehouse’s Mike Emerson, Perennial’s beer dinners with restaurants across the city and The Civil Life’s work with Amsterdam Tavern to create its Goal!den Ale for the soccer-obsessed South City bar as well as with Royale Fine Food & Spirits in Tower Grove South to create Royale Kolsch.

Wymore agrees. He and his team at Perennial crank out a new beer on draught every week and a new bottle offering every month. Part of why his madcap brewing schedule succeeds is that he is exactly where he is, in the middle of the country. “We’re not pigeonholed by a certain style,” explains Wymore. “We take the best things from a variety of areas and regions – lighter West Coast beers, hoppier East Coast styles – that produce great results.”

“Is 10 percent, 15 percent, 20 percent [market share] or beyond possible in the next 10 to 15 years?” asks Wolfe. “We think so, but that’s not necessarily the point. Nobody knows for sure where craft beer will end up, but one thing is for certain: Craft-beer brewers are individually and collectively making a positive impact in our local communities, and that cannot be underestimated.”

This amalgamation of brewing styles seems to be paying off for Perennial, as it's already begun distribution to Chicago

See? No over-the-top competition or infighting. Just a team effort to build beer recognition in a beer-obsessed city.


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Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

71


Fun Food, Happy People, Great Drinks! FEAST FAVE • Cleveland-Heath Chop Chop Salad Mixed greens, egg, roasted chicken, Rensing’s bacon, blue cheese $7 Lunch - 1/2 salad + cup of soup PATIO NOW OPEN Mon-Fri 11:00-close, Sat 10:00-close Offering Saturday brunch First Come - First Serve (No reservations) Open Mon - Fri starting at 11 am and Sat starting at 10 am

106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville. IL • 618.307.4830

5 Dollar Monday – Second pizza is $5* *Equal or lesser value! Not valid with any other offers. Offer valid on every other pizza. Tax and gratuity not included. Happy HOur, Seven days a week featuring $5.00 a���t�z��s from 4 - 6 p.m. LiVe MuSic! Wednesday - Saturday Every Wednesday we have 1/2 p����d Bottl�s of W�n� on our entire list!

731 So�th L�ndb��gh Blvd. • F�ont�n��, MO • 314.569.4115 • V�s�t �s on

• f�ont�n��g��ll.�om

Perfect Setting for Any Gathering Designed by renowned architect Harris Armstrong with the idea of being a passive solar home, the expansive 49’ great room provides the perfect setting for any gathering with floor to ceiling glass walls providing fabulous views of the acreage. Multiple seating areas are brought together by Armstrong’s signature limestone fireplace. The master suite and 2 bedrooms are set on the west side of the home, and the fourth bedroom suite is at the opposite end, adjoining the kitchen. The lower level has recreation room with stone fireplace, wet bar, terrazzo floors with built in shuffle board, powder room and walks out to an area perfect for a pool.

9999 Litzinger Road Ladue, MO

Kitchen boasts stainless counters, two stainless sinks, white Geneva cabinets and original vintage range.

Call Gina Bundy at 314.267-6262/314.721.4755 • gladysmanion.com

The Premier Getaway Experience

Tara Point Inn

&

Tara Point Cottages

Close to

The Inn has Grafton two Riverside rooms plus the Wineries Delta Queen Suite. Suite includes Sitting Room & Whirlpool Bath. Three Cottages have a total of eight suites, all have a den with fireplaces. Bedrooms all have king size beds & Whirlpool Baths.

Tara Point is located just 12 National Scenic Byway miles upriver from Alton, atop a bluff overlooking the Mississippi River. Many say it’s the most beautiful view in the Midwest. All Inn & Cottage Suites have great river Views.

Box 1 • Grafton, IL 62037 • www.tarapoint.com • For Brochure or Reservations: (618) 786-3555 • Fax: (618) 786-3255 72

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2012


CLASSIFIEDS Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis AUTOMOTIVE

HEALTHCARE SERVICES

ST. LOUIS CAR MUSEUM & SALES Now offering Upholstery Services for Your Classic, Antique, Custom and Special Interest Autos Contact Kevin @ 314.993.1330 Or Kevin@stlouiscarmuseum.com

AUTOMOBILE & MOTORCYCLE STORAGE The Finest in Climate Controlled Storage Close to Clayton and Ladue 314-993-1330 or Kevin@stlouiscarmuseum.com

PAINTING JC PAINTS Interior/Exterior Painting Reliable, Clean & Reasonable. Insured. Call John for a free estimate 314-703-2794

Home Helpers is your #1 source affordable, dependable care for all ages by compassionate caregivers. •

RN Supervised

Meal Preparation

PET SERVICES THE WELL BEHAVED PET.... For all your home training needs. New Puppy, Puppy Mill, Rescue Dogs or Behavioral Problems. OH, DON'T FORGET THE CAT!!!! Call me, I can help. Laura @ 636-456-9993

Housekeeping Errands • Recuperative Care •

• Bathing/Personal Care •

On Call 24/7 Insured/Bonded and Carefully Screened

314.961.1002 636.391.0000

REAL ESTATE FOR SALE LAKE MICHIGAN Waterfront Homes for Sale Go To www.Andreacrossman.com or Call 616-355-6387 Andrea Crossman

www.homehelpersstl.com I BUY RUNNING USED CARS Buying with Integrity for Over 30 Years Cash Paid On The Spot Call Sam 314-302-2008

HOME IMPROVEMENT

HANDYMAN SERVICES KEN'S HANDYMAN SERVICE Carpentry, Electrical, Plumbing, Painting, Gutter Cleaning and Hauling. Over 25 Yrs. Exp. Ref's. Insured. Call Ken 314-567-6900

HEALTHCARE SERVICES

VISITING ANGELS

24/7 Companion Care for Seniors. Personal Care, Meal Prep, Light Housekeeping & Peace of Mind.

314-569-9890

8 ACRES OVERLOOKING Beautiful Mississippi River, Jefferson County, Gated Community with Only 13 Houses. Approx 25 min from downtown St. Louis. Call for Brochure, Owner 314-420-2026

$ CASH 4 OLD STUFF $ ————Light Hauling———— We Cleanup, Haul Away and/or purchase: Garage, Estate and Moving Sales! Also, Warehouse, Business & Storage Locker Leftovers! FAY FURNITURE 618-271-8200 AM

• Run the ad, screen resumes, interview, check references and perform a background check on every candidate • Available 24/7 to assist with “STAT” staffing needs • Work on a contingency basis --- no charge until M.E.D. delivers the “right” candidate for the job

For our Candidates:

• Assist with resume preparation and interviewing techniques • Present your resume when the “right” position presents • Schedule the interview • Never a fee for our services

Learn more by visiting our website:

From your Smartphone Medmobile.stlsites.com

314.991.8806

We do more than Sweep Chimneys • Tuckpointing • Brick Work • Chimney Covers • Replace Rusted Chimney tops • Gas logs • Glass Doors • Airduct Cleaning • Dryer Vent

Visit our website For Discounts

englishsweep.com 636.391.2226

ALLEN'S HAULING SERVICE 15, 20 and 30 Yard Trash Containers. Hauling Service. No Job Too Big Or Small. Any Type of Trash Removal. 314-621-0481 or 581-7274

TREES

REGENTS PARK LONDON Modern 2 Bedroom Apartment. Convenient for Museums, Shopping, Theater. Wireless Internet Access. Highly Recommended! Call 314-569-2009

WANTED

WANTED

CHINESE ANTIQUES: QUALITY CHINESE ANTIQUES: BUYING IVORY, JADE and BRONZE figurines, NICE PIECES 314-503-4847

CASH PAID FOR:

Comic Books • Pulp Magazines 1930s - 1960s Interest in Small and Large Quantities

314-458-7968 WE BUY DIAMONDS!

Trees Trimmed & Removed

• Stone Retaining Walls • Stump Grinding • Fully Insured

(636) 274-1378 TUCKPOINTING

SERVICES

For our Clients:

ùùù¼9KL53J¼M89

We Fix Leaky Chimneys

TREE SERVICE

LAWN & GARDEN Get your BBQ grill cleaned and ready for FALL Cookouts! Treat him to a clean, healthy grill this season. Our steam bath process helps remove greasy buildup and harmful carcinogens. Grill healthier, better tasting food. Call Steve 314-452-7192 or visit www.bbqgrillco.com

VACATION RENTALS

GILLS

PRECISION REMODELING Since 1990 - Interior & Exterior We Are Here For All Your Home Improvement Needs & Repairs. Free Estimates! Fully Insured. Call Bob (314) 799-4633 or Jim (314) 799-4630

Medical Employment Directory is St. Louis' #1 healthcare recruiting and staffing company!

Recruiting the Right People, For the Right Position The Right Way!

SERVICES

All Tuck Pointing Basement Work Chimney Repair Painting Carpentry Repair Caulking Step Repair Foundation Roofing New/Repair Waterproofing All Work Guaranteed DON 314-865-0558 A+ Rating with B.B.B.

Immediate cash paid 20 years in business 314-721-7210 by appointment only www.webuydiamondsstl.com COLLECTOR WISHES TO PURCHASE Gun Collections â Old and New Antiques of Any Type Fishing Tackle Call Steve Lapin 314-571-9427 OLD RECORDS WANTED Experienced Collector Pays Cash for Your Record Collection. 45 RPM, 78 RPM and 33.3 RPM. Rock, Soul, Jazz. House Calls Made. Call Kurt for info. 314-324-0521

SELL IT HERE 314/269-8810

laduenews.com

P S JOIN US! Don’t miss your chance to mingle with your fellow food lovers.

Ultimate Recipes Class Wed., Oct. 17, 6:30pm, $30 wholefoodsmarket.com/service/register-cooking-classes Join Cat Neville, Pint Size Bakery’s Christy Augustin and STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann for a class that will teach you homestyle classics perfect for fall.

Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2012

73


The dish

Churros y Chocolate Once upon a time I would always skip dessert. I never saved room. Then along came the Churros y Chocolate at Modesto, and I stand before you a changed woman. It all starts in the kitchen, where chef Mike Warhover lovingly mixes pâte à choux with a cinnamon twist. He then pipes strands of the pastry dough into oil and fries them until each churro develops a warm amber hue. While these deep-fried delicacies are still hot, he rolls them in cinnamon sugar until they sparkle. A warm cup of creamy Madagascar chocolate steeped with cinnamon sticks – just enough to add depth and character – is served alongside the fried pastry. I usually start with a drizzle of chocolate sauce on my churro. Which becomes a dip. And then I dunk with wild abandon. Every bite is as sweet as it is savory, starting with an exhilarating crunch that gives way to melt-in-your-mouth delightfulness. The mere anticipation of this dish is enough to persuade me to save room for dessert. But on second thought, it’s a tapas restaurant – I can just start with the Churros y Chocolate! Modesto Tapas Bar & Restaurant, 5257 Shaw Ave., The Hill 314.772.8272, modestotapas.com Check out Amy’s weekly online column, Dinner & A Show, at feastSTL.com every Thursday for inspired restaurant and local cultural event pairings. photography by Jonathan Gayman

Contributor’s Pick

Amy Burdge


SMARTER. COOLER. BETTER.

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0% APR WITH 52 MONTHS TO PAY*

MODELS TO CHOOSE FROM

The iComfort mattress features Cool Action Gel Memory �oam— infused with the support and cooling touch of Serta’s MicroSupport gel.

QUEEN SETS FROM

1299

$

5

MODELS TO CHOOSE FROM

Cool Action Gel Memory �oam is paired with the Euro-Coil Individually Wrapped Coil-in-Coil Support System.

ALSO AVAILABLE:Serta Motio� Perfect Adjustable Fou�datio�

FREE

Delivery

FREE

FREE

2 FREE SERTA SCRUNCH PILLOWS

Removal

FREE DELIVERY/SET UP/REMOVAL OF OLD MATTRESS: with $695 beddi�g purchase a�d d withi� i hi �ormal delivery zo�es, some zo�es require extra charge, some areas beyo�d our delivery ra�ge. Free Removal o�ly whe� you have your �ew mattress delivered. Prior sales excluded, ask for details.

2 Pillows

2 FREE TEMPUR SYMPHONY PILLOWS

2 FREE SCRUNCH PILLOWS WITH ICOMFORT OR ISERIES PURCHASE, 2 FREE SYMPHONY PILLOWS WITH TEMPUR-PEDIC PURCHASE.

Daily 10-8 Su�day 12-5 O’FALLON, MO 636-978-3500

O’FALLON, IL 618-632-1700

SOUTH SIDE 314-968-5595

SOUTH COUNTY 314-892-9002

DELLWOOD 314-388-0200

ALTON 618-462-9770

T�E BEST REST for �ess!

*INTEREST FREE TIL 2017: To qualified buyers o� select Serta sets. Mo�thly payme�ts are approximate a�d based o� 52 mo�ths with approved credit a�d calculated before sales tax. Sales tax must be added to the total. The mi�imum mo�thly payme�t for this purchase will be the amou�t that will pay for the purchase i� full i� equal payme�ts duri�g the promotio�al (special terms) period. The Rothma� credit card is issued by Wells Fargo Fi�a�cial Natio�al Ba�k. Special terms apply to qualifyi�g purchases charged with approved credit. The special terms APR will co�ti�ue to apply u�til all qualifyi�g purchases are paid i� full. The APR for Purchases will apply to certai� fees such as a late payme�t fee or if you use the card for other tra�sactio�s. For �ewly ope�ed accou�ts, the APR for Purchases is 27.99%. This APR may vary with the market based o� the U.S. Prime Rate a�d is give� as of 7/1/12. If you are charged i�terest i� a�y billi�g cycle, the mi�imum i�terest charge will be $1.00. Offer expires 10/8/12. We strive for accuracy, but errors may occur; we reserve the right to correct such errors. Some qua�tities may be limited. Prior sales excluded, ask for details.



October 2012 FEAST Magazine