November 2021 Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture / m i d w e s t

p. 11

pear-fect party punch p. 32

sides to spice up your spread

november 2021

p. 40

comfort cooking but make it vegan

turkey day

treats

Congratulations Congratulations Congratulations to toto the the the 2021 2021 2021 FEast FEast FEast Face Face Face off off off Winners!

Winners!

Winners!

BraCKEt BraCKEt BraCKEt WinnErs WinnErs WinnErs (Ribs) (Ribs) (Ribs)

STL STL –STL The – The – The Stellar Stellar Stellar Hog Hog Hog SpRingfieLd SpRingfieLd SpRingfieLd – Sugarfire – Sugarfire – Sugarfire Smokehouse Smokehouse Smokehouse CoLumbia CoLumbia CoLumbia – Sweet – Sweet – Sweet Smoke Smoke Smoke bbQ bbQ bbQ KC KC –KC Jack – Jack – Jack Stack Stack Stack

PullEd PullEd PullEd PorK PorK PorK (public (public (public Vote) Vote) Vote)

STL STL –STL pappy’s – pappy’s – pappy’s Smokehouse Smokehouse Smokehouse KC KC –KC danny – danny – danny edwards edwards edwards blvd blvd blvd bbQ bbQ bbQ SpRingfieLd SpRingfieLd SpRingfieLd – Lost – Lost – Lost Signal Signal Signal brewing brewing brewing Company Company Company CoLumbia CoLumbia CoLumbia – Como – Como – Como Smoke Smoke Smoke && fire fire & fire

COMING COMING COMING NOVEMBER NOVEMBER NOVEMBER atatat

feastmagazine.com feastmagazine.com feastmagazine.com

A Taste of History in Every Glass

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 1

DELIGHT is Always on the Menu With award-winning, globally recognized Executive Chef Brian Hardy at the helm, delight is always on the menu at The Gatesworth, an exceptional independent senior living community in St. Louis. Using only the freshest seasonal ingredients, Chef Hardy not only sets the general menus for The Gatesworth’s three full-service, in-house restaurants, but he works with the individual residents to custom-create menus.

To Chef Hardy, creating custom menus is about more than meeting dietary requirements; it’s about surprise and delight, engaging the senses and stimulating the palate of each unique resident.

“A healthy, well-balanced, fully customized diet is something every resident of The Gatesworth has always enjoyed,” Hardy explains.

“In many establishments, you’ll find processed food; that’s not our way at The Gatesworth,” he says. “We bring things in and do the work ourselves, bringing in fresh fruits and vegetables, and high-quality, local ingredients. We do all our baking, butchering and brining in-house. We peel, blanche and prepare vegetables by hand. Most everything is made from scratch. It’s not the easiest way, but it’s the best way to retain flavor and nutrients.”

According to Hardy, the difference begins with the staff. The renowned kitchen staff members hold themselves to the highest standards, and nearly every individual who trains with The Gatesworth is a graduate of a culinary program or has gone through

an apprenticeship, with some having even competed worldwide.

“My staff and I are like the personal chefs of each and every resident that lives here at The Gatesworth,” he explains.

“Everyone is unique, so every diet we create is, too. From the moment I meet a new resident, I become a student of their tastes, likes, dislikes, health needs, dietary goals, etc.

I want to know them completely, so I can provide them with the best nutrition, variety and taste possible.”

These standards do not go unnoticed by the residents, many of whom have named the dining one of the first-class features of the community. “The food is always excellent here,” says resident Carol Max. “Chef Brian Hardy will cook to order for you if there is something special you would like, which he has done for me many times.”

“Our residents provide the inspiration and sometimes even the recipes,” Hardy adds. “Our kitchen can prepare pretty much anything, and we love the challenge of trying to bring a resident’s beloved family recipe to life. It’s all about that personal touch.”

EXECUTIVE CHEF BRIAN HARDY The 2020 recipient of the Dr. L.J. Minor Chef Professionalism Award from St. Augustine, Florida’s distinguished American Culinary Federation, Hardy is passionate about providing the highest quality of food and service to The Gatesworth.

The Gatesworth is now welcoming new residents! For more information, or to experience The Gatesworth’s personal touch, please contact us.

We’d love to meet you!

314-993-0111 | THEGATESWORTH.COM

The Gatesworth is committed to equal housing opportunity and does not discriminate in housing and services because of race, color, religion, sex, handicap, familial status or national origin.

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 1

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/ 11 / the mix Spiced Sparkling Pear Punch

/ 12 / the dish

Turkey Ribs

/ 14 / healthy appetite Stuffed Acorn Squash

/ 16 /

shop here

Supreme Kringle Bakery

/ 17 /

midwest made

Caramel Apples

/ 19 /

one on one

Charles Miller of Chandler Hill Vineyards

/ 20 /

mystery shopper

Tiger Nuts

/ 23 / one on one

Dani Hunnell of Dani’s Flour Pot Bakery

/ 24 / sugar rush

Cranberry-Pear Pâté de Fruit

/ 26 / quick fix Whole Roasted Cauliflower with Orange-Pomegranate Glaze

/ 27 / culinary library DeMarco Howard of Gobble Stop Smokehouse

/ 28 / crash course Amaro

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 1

32

a side of spice

36

turning the corner

40

no turkey? no problem

Switch up your Thanksgiving spread with traditional Indian recipes from The Wildseed.

Learn how Kanbe’s Markets is working to eliminate food deserts in Kansas City.

Bring vegan comfort food to the holiday table with these recipes from Mattie’s Foods.

Why Pork?

Did you know that eating 20-30g of protein per meal may help you feel fuller and more satisfied?1 Pork is packed with protein and the essential amino acids, vitamins and minerals you need.

For example, every 3 oz. serving of pork tenderloin provides 22g of protein.2

@MissouriPork

© Copyright 2021. National Pork Board, Des Moines, Iowa USA. This message funded

by America’s Pork Checkoff Program.

1 2

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25926512/ U.S. Department of Agriculture Nutrient Database Release 18, 2006 Revised USDA Nutrient Data Set for Fresh Pork

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 1

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Inspired Local Food Culture /

Defiance Ridge Vineyards

november

midwest

2021

Volume 11 / Issue 11 EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

general manager

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com

Susan Eckert, seckert@feastmagazine.com

managing editor

media Strategist

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com

Erin Wood, ewood@feastmagazine.com

digital editor

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor

Contact Us Feast Media, 901 N. 10th St., St. Louis, MO 63101 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

Mabel Suen

Distribution

Springfield Contributing Editor

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Rich Hudson for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at rhudson@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Tessa Cooper Columbia Contributing Editor

Jessica Vaughn Martin fact checker

Meghan Baker Proofreader

Alecia Humphreys Contributing Writers

Amy Feese, Teresa Floyd, Natalie Torres Gallagher, Juliana Goodwin, Rogan Howitt, Burk Krohe, India Pernell, Sara Roelke, Brooke Spalding, Nancy Stiles, Emily Wasserman, Shannon Weber, Gaby Weir Vera, Arvelisha Woods

ART Art Director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers

Paul Andrews, Zach Bauman, Angela Bond, Rhianon Brown, Sarah Conard, Teresa Floyd, Shelby Hall, Sean Locke, Ben Nickelson, J. Pollack Photography, Dan Rockafellow, Matthew Seidel, Jennifer Silverberg, Cheryl Vaughn Contributing illustrators

Abigail McNaghten and Kasi Yalon

Open 7 Days a Week ~ year rOunD 2711 South Highway 94 • Defiance, MO 63341 636.798.2288 • defianceridgevineyards.com

Rooted in the rolling hills of Historic Missouri Wine Country, the 42 acre property boasts a vineyard, tranquil lake and lush garden landscape. Breathtaking views of the sweeping Missouri River Valley are captured year round from the terraces and veranda surrounding our historic farmhouse.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2021 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

on the cover Chef DeMarco Howard of Gobble Stop Smokehouse in St. Louis by Sarah Conard table of contents Vegan Thanksgiving at Mattie’s Foods in Kansas City by Angela Bond

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Imagine your home, totally organized!

Custom Closets Garage Cabinets Home Offices Pantries, Laundries and Hobby Rooms.

editor’s letter

A

fter the past year and a half, sitting down to a big Thanksgiving dinner surrounded by loved ones has never felt so important.

In that spirit, our annual Thanksgiving issue is full of fun, festive recipes and recommendations to make this year’s celebration your best one yet. You’ll find recipes for stuffed acorn squash, sugarcoated cranberry-pear pâté de fruit and spiced sparkling pear punch, to name a few, as well as a crash course on amaro – the perfect digestif to enjoy after a particularly long and luxurious meal.

While you can’t go wrong with the classics (visit feastmagazine.com/ thanksgiving for our full collection of recipes), Thanksgiving is also an opportunity to bring new traditions to the table. No one embodies this better than Tammy Stafford and Rima Walker, a mother- and daughter-in-law duo who co-own The Wildseed Restaurant & Bar in Strafford, Missouri. At their restaurant – and at their family’s shared Thanksgiving table – they blend classic American comfort food with traditional Indian flavors (p. 32).

In Kansas City, India Pernell and Arvelisha Woods of Mattie’s Foods are also adding their own spin to the

classic Thanksgiving spread. The sisters come from a long line of home cooks who would open up their homes to feed friends and family on the holidays. Now, they’re carrying on that tradition – but making it vegan. On p. 40, they share their story, along with a few plant-based riffs on classic comfort dishes.

2018 © All Rights Reserved. Closets by Design, Inc.

Pantry

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As we celebrate the biggest food holiday of the year, we also can’t ignore the impact that the pandemic has had on food insecurity both throughout the country and here at home. In Kansas City, Kanbe’s Markets has risen to the challenge, doubling down on its mission to eliminate food waste and food insecurity by delivering fresh fruits and vegetables to convenience stores and gas stations located in neighborhoods deemed food deserts. To learn more about its work, flip to p. 36.

However you choose to celebrate Thanksgiving this year, I hope it’s full of family, friends and great food.

Until next time,

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PROMOTION PROMOTION

SPONSORED CONTENT BY

ALLISON PRIMO

SCHNUCKS REGISTERED DIETITIAN

THE BEST MEAL OF THE YEAR, AND THE DAYS TO FOLLOW Thanksgiving is one of my favorite holidays. A day dedicated to delicious food shared with family and friends while showing gratitude for all the blessings in our life. For someone that loves to cook and loves even more to share kitchen creations with others, it doesn’t get much better than this. There are very few days where we disconnect from email and Zoom calls and instead spend time rolling up our sleeves to chop, mix and bake delicious dishes for loved ones.

Another reason to love Thanksgiving is the many leftovers from the holiday meal. After the effort put forth into making everything, the last thing you want to do is have any of it go to waste. However, there

TURKEY SHAWARMA BOWL SERVES 4 ½ cup lemon juice, divided 3 Tbsp olive oil

1 head cauliflower, chopped into bite-sized florets

1 Tbsp maple syrup

14 oz can chickpeas, rinsed and drained

5 tsp minced garlic, divided

2 cups leftover chopped turkey breast

2 tsp ground cumin, divided

½ cup tahini

½ tsp smoked paprika

¼ cup finely chopped fresh parsley

½ tsp ground ginger

2 cups shredded cabbage

1 tsp dried oregano

3 cups cooked farro, warm

⅛ tsp ground cinnamon

1 cup thinly sliced cucumber

¼ tsp ground turmeric

½ of a medium red onion, thinly sliced

¼ tsp cayenne pepper 1 ½ tsp salt, divided

is a fine line between enjoying the holiday flavors and eating the same turkey and stuffing for three days straight. Finding creative ways to transform leftovers into completely new dishes not only prevents waste, but also offers variety in your meals.

I like to challenge myself to use different flavors when crafting meals from leftovers, like in this month’s Turkey Shawarma Bowl. The addition of spices and fresh vegetables helps ditch the stigma that leftovers can’t live up to the original meal. So as you gather with loved ones to make memories around the table, don’t worry if you are surrounded by platters full of turkey and green beans, be inspired for the tasty meals to come.

PREPARATION Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a large bowl, combine ¼ cup lemon juice, olive oil, maple syrup, 2 teaspoons garlic, 1 teaspoon cumin, paprika, ginger, oregano, cinnamon, turmeric, cayenne and 1 teaspoon salt. Add cauliflower and chickpeas; toss to coat and transfer to a baking sheet. Roast 20 minutes.

Remove baking sheet from oven and add turkey, tossing with vegetables until well-combined. Return to oven and roast an additional 5 to 10 minutes or until turkey is heated through.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl combine tahini, parsley, ¼ cup lemon juice, 3 teaspoons garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon cumin. Whisk together until smooth. Arrange cabbage in shallow bowls topped with warm farro, roasted vegetable and turkey mixture, cucumber slices, and red onion.

Drizzle with tahini sauce and garnish with additional parsley.

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the mix / the dish / healthy appetite / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / crash course

spiced pear and sparkling wine are the backbones of this celebratory cocktail .

With the holidays just around the corner, easy-peasy self-serve punch is a great way to keep your guests happy without spending all night shaking individual concoctions. The spiced pear syrup for this recipe is ready in minutes, and the rest you can buy and batch beforehand, so you can focus on the food on the big day.

Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photography by cheryl vaughn

Sp

i ce

d Sparkl in

For a large batch, multiply the first six punch ingredients by the serving size, store the then top the cocktails with sparkling wine before serving to keep them bubbly.

Spiced Pear Syrup (yields 1 liter) 16 oz pear juice 32 oz granulated sugar 2 Ceylon cinnamon sticks, crushed 5 cloves, crushed 1 orange, zested with microplane

P u n ch

r

mixture in the refrigerator and

ea gP

This recipe makes one cocktail.

serves 1

Spiced Sparkling Pear Punch ¾ oz bonded applejack ¾ oz freshly squeezed lemon juice ½ oz amaretto ½ oz spiced pear syrup (recipe follows) ¼ oz allspice dram ½ oz club soda, chilled 2 oz sparkling wine, chilled 2 dashes Angostura aromatic bitters star anise, for garnish / preparation – spiced pear syrup / Add all ingredients to a medium saucepan; stirring constantly, heat over medium low until sugar has dissolved completely. Remove from heat and allow to steep until cool. Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain solids from liquid. Store syrup in an airtight container and refrigerate for up to two weeks. / preparation – spiced sparkling pear punch / Add applejack, lemon juice, amaretto, spiced pear syrup and allspice dram to a shaker tin with ice; quickly shake to chill ingredients but not overly dilute. Strain mixture into a Champagne flute or a large coupe glass. Top with club soda, sparkling wine and bitters. Garnish with star anise and serve.

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the mix / the dish / healthy appetite / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / crash course

At Kingz Turkee Shack in St. Louis’ Grand Center neighborhood, turkey reigns supreme.

Guests will find the lean poultry in a variety of signature menu items, from turkey burgers to stuffed turkey legs and turkey nachos to turkey ribs.

The comfort food concept, which debuted in October 2020, comes from co-owners Cortez Burnett and Tyrone Lee. “We call it ‘turkee nation,’” says head chef and general manager Ebonee Crymes. “I tell everyone who comes in that we carry all things turkey.

Turkey is a great, healthier alternative to pork and beef, and you can have it in so many different ways. It’s amazing.”

The restaurant’s turkey ribs are one of the most popular plates. Dry-rubbed with what Crymes describes as a Montreal steak seasoning with Cajun and Creole spices, the turkey ribs are then cooked on a charcoal grill with apple wood and hickory until the meat practically falls off the bone. Available in three- or five-piece orders, the juicy ribs are served on a bed of fries or atop “dirty rice,” a Cajun-style rice with bell peppers, ground beef, “dirty sauce” (béchamel Alfredo sauce), Parmesan and green onions.

Usually, the ribs are dressed with barbecue sauce and garnished with fresh parsley, but each platter is made to order, so guests can

Tender, juicy and doused with your sauce of choice, this is one twist on the traditional Thanksgiving turkey that your dinner guests won’t soon forget.

choose from other sauces, including Buffalo, lemon-pepper, mango-habanero, teriyaki and Shack Sauce (sweet and spicy ranch).

For Thanksgiving, Kingz Turkee Shack offers a special menu with take-home options such as succulent turkey ribs, whole roasted turkeys, pastas and sides of dressing, sweet potatoes, greens, mac ‘n’ cheese and fried cornbread for the whole family.

Written by Mabel Suen Photography by j. pollack photography

3623 Page Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri, kingzturkeeshack.com

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Upscale farm-to-table restaurant, serving craft cocktails, local beers, and an extensive wine and bourbon list!

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Join the St. Louis Post-Dispatch sports writers and columnists for an evening of food, drinks and St. Louis sports talk!

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the mix / the dish / healthy appetite / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / crash course

stuffed

Acorn Squash Through school lunch, I can share people’s stories and teach my students about different food cultures.

With this recipe for stuffed acorn squash, I explore Native Americans’ deep connections to the land through the indigenous Three Sisters crop (winter squash, maize and climbing beans). I add my own touch to the harvest with a gentle blend of rice, pepitas, walnuts, dried cranberries and crystallized ginger. Together, the ingredients balance warm and sweet flavors, making this dish a sensory experience for all eaters.

Story and recipe by Gaby Weir Vera, private chef, Columbia, Missouri Photography by ben nickelson illustration by kasi yalon

serves 4 2

2 1 4 1 2 ½ ½ 2 2 2 1 4

acorn squash, halved crosswise, deseeded salt and freshly ground black pepper Tbsp olive oil, divided medium yellow onion, small dice cloves garlic, minced cup white basmati rice cups water cup cooked pinto beans cup frozen corn kernels, thawed Tbsp chopped pepitas Tbsp roughly chopped walnuts Tbsp dried cranberries, plus more for garnish tsp minced crystalized ginger Tbsp grated aged Parmesan, optional fresh thyme sprigs fresh Italian parsley, minced, for garnish

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 450°F. Season the cut sides of the squash with salt and pepper; drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Place squash cut-side down on a baking sheet; roast until tender, approximately 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat remaining oil in a medium pot. Add onion and garlic and season with salt and pepper; sauté until lightly golden, approximately 2 minutes.

Add rice; toast until the grain releases a fragrance reminiscent of popcorn. Add water and season with salt; bring to a boil. As soon as the water boils, reduce heat to low; cook, covered, until liquid is absorbed, 15 to 20 minutes. Once cooked, transfer rice to a large mixing bowl and allow to cool slightly. Add beans, corn, pepitas, walnuts, cranberries and ginger; stir to combine. Set aside.

Remove squash from oven. Scoop out ¾ of the flesh of each half, leaving ¼ of the flesh to provide a solid framework for the squash bowls; fold extracted flesh into rice mixture. Evenly divide stuffing among squash bowls. Sprinkle each with Parmesan, if using. Top with thyme. Return stuffed squash to oven and cook, approximately 5 minutes or until cheese has melted.

Garnish with parsley and cranberries and serve.

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The Tale of

THREE SISTERS

vKnown for their symbiotic relationship, the Three

Sisters are traditionally grown, eaten and celebrated

together. The corn offers the beans support, and the

beans pull nitrogen from the air and into the soil for the benefit of all three. As the beans grow through the tangle of squash vines and wind their way up the cornstalks in search of sunlight, they hold everything together, and the large leaves of the sprawling squash protect the threesome by creating living mulch that shades the soil, keeping it cool and moist and preventing weeds. The leaves are also prickly, which wards off raccoons, who don’t like to step on them.

Together, the Three Sisters provide sustainable soil fertility, along with a healthy meal.

Pumpkin, Apple, Peach, Blackberry Pies made with ingredients by sustainable and local farmers and vendors www.colonialgardenskc.com/events Open 7 days a week, 8 am - 3 pm Nestled the beautiful setting of Colonial Gardens 26710 E Wyatt Rd Blue Springs, MO 64014 / nov e mbe r 2 02 1

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the mix / the dish / healthy appetite / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / crash course

▶SPRINGFIELD, MO

Supreme Kringle Bakery Written by Juliana Goodwin / photography by shelby hall

When Lance and Lynda Twesme moved from Racine, Wisconsin, to Springfield, Missouri, they brought their most important possession: their Kringle recipe. A large, oval Danish pastry made with 39 layers of buttery dough and filled with everything from cream cheese to fruits to chocolate, the Kringle is the focus of Supreme Kringle Bakery, which the couple opened in 1988. Run by their daughter Taedra Kant today, the bakery’s menu has expanded to include other mouthwatering baked goods such as apple fritters, cherry turnovers, coffee cakes, old-fashioned cake donuts and chocolate chip cookie sandwiches stuffed with housemade buttercream. The Kringle, however, is still the bestseller – the shop sold more than 10,000 last December alone. It comes in 24 flavors, including raspberry-cheese, German chocolate and pumpkin; customers can also create their own.

3314 S. National Ave., Springfield, Missouri, facebook.com/Supreme-Kringle-Bakery-118068704877349

treats from Supreme kringle Bakery for your

Thanksgiving Table 16

pumpkin tea cake

holiday kringle

coffee cake

Skip the pumpkin pie and opt for this moist

Available from November through December, the

For the base of the coffee cake, Supreme Kringle

pumpkin cake covered in housemade sweet

holiday Kringle features apples, cream cheese,

Bakery combines butter, cream and puréed fruit, plus

glaze. The light and airy dessert serves six to

sugared pecans and cranberries tucked inside the

a swirl of housemade cream cheese. After it’s baked,

eight guests, and it also comes in cranberry

buttery layers of flaky crust. “[It has] lots and lots of

the cake, which comes in a variety of flavors, is topped

and cranberry-orange flavors.

butter,” Kant says. “Butter makes everything better.”

with sweet glaze.

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 1

midwest made

caramel apples

These Missouri confectioners add everything from chocolate to Tajín seasoning to waffle cone crumble to their hand-dipped caramel apples, which delight people of all ages.

Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin photography by matthew seidel

Born out of an abundance of apples, the caramel apples from Happy Apples in Washington, Missouri, come in a variety of gourmet flavors, including apple pie, chocolate-pecan and Tajín-seasoned peanut. The company doesn’t have a storefront, but the delicious apples are available at Aldi, Dierbergs Markets, Schnucks and Walmart. If you need more than a few, contact the company directly to place a bulk order any time of the year. happyapples.com

All year, Laura Little’s Candies in Prairie Village, Kansas, churns out fudge, truffles and even popcorn. For a brief but sweet stretch in the fall, the small business also creates crunchy caramel apples rolled in myriad toppings. Both the cinnamon-pecan and the peanut are fantastic, but you can also develop a flavor all your own. Put in a special request at the shop or over the phone through the first week of November. lauralittlecandy.com

Janet Ansehl Shulman, owner of The Caramel House in Olivette, Missouri, makes smooth, creamy caramel that won’t stick to your teeth.

Try a caramel apple, or grab a DIY apple-dipping kit, which comes with two Granny Smith apples, salted caramel, sprinkles, chocolate buttons and four edible emojis, plus everything you need to package the treats. Snag all the gooey goodness that The Caramel House has to offer at its storefront or online at thecaramelhouse.com.

For 40 years, caramel apples have been a fall specialty at The Candy Factory in Columbia, Missouri. A crisp Granny Smith apple dipped in decadent caramel is the base model, but there’s more here to satisfy your candy apple cravings.

Try the salted pecan or the apple pie dipped in white chocolate and then sprinkled with apple pie spice. Pop into the family-owned and -operated shop for all your favorites through mid-November. thecandyfactoryonline.com

From M&M’s and Reese’s Pieces to Heath bar and Butterfinger, Sweet Caroline’s specializes in caramel apples coated in all your favorite candies. The confectioner also offers classic caramel apples and a new novelty: a waffle cone apple covered in bits of waffle cone, drizzled with chocolate and topped with sprinkles. Stop by the shop in Overland Park, Kansas, or place an order online at facebook.com/sweetcarolinescandyshop.

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 1

17

PROMOTI ON

PRESENTED BY

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

UNLOCK THE POWER OF ARTI CHOKES S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T BY K AT H E R I N E L E W I S

Rustic Mediterranean Inspired Pizza 1 pre-cooked pizza crust (or roll out uncooked dough per instructions) 3/4 cup pizza (or marinara) sauce, more for dipping

BABY

BIG HEART

GREEN GLOBE

OMAHA

1 Tbsp olive oil

What, exactly, a “baby” artichoke is depends on where it’s grown. In the United States, baby artichokes are pulled from the same plant as Green Globe artichokes: They’re just lower (and therefore smaller) on the stem. Those raised in Europe — mostly in Italy, France and Spain — are Green Globes that are picked before they’ve fully matured. Baby artichokes are appreciated by chefs and diners alike because they’re edible from heart to stem, with an earthy flavor that recalls asparagus or Brussels sprouts.

There is a lot to love in the Big Heart artichoke, starting with its hefty size — most are over a pound. These are the ones to reach for if you want to make an ohso-elegant stuffed artichoke side dish bursting with breadcrumbs, herbs and cheese. Or try steaming them for a simpler (and healthier) preparation: Artichokes are filled with antioxidants and folate, as well as vitamins A and C.

Identifiable by the subtle silverypurple tinge at the base of their petals, Green Globe artichokes are the kind most commonly found in U.S. grocery stores. Their large leaves yield a good amount of the vegetable’s edible flesh, which has a pleasantly buttery taste when cooked. Getting to the “meat” of artichokes is an exercise in patience, but with a little preparation, Green Globes are perfect for snacking.

Plump, reddish-purple and up to six inches wide, Omaha artichokes are the answer to those who find Green Globes too bitter. Their larger size makes them ideal for grilling or roasting, and their taste — at turns nutty, earthy and even reminiscent of caramel — means they’d be right at home on a pizza, in a salad or pureed into soups.

2 Tbsp lemon juice

are available, a quick rinse under water can remove some of the sodium.”

“But what’s no mystery about artichokes is that they can be a nutritious and really tasty addition to your menus. They’re low in calories and a good source of fiber, vitamin C, potassium and other potentially beneficial compounds,” he says.

Preparing whole, fresh artichokes is more complicated: The tips of those pointy bracts and the artichoke’s stem will need to be cut away before simmering the artichoke in a covered pot for about 30 minutes. The tender ends of the leaves can then be eaten with a dip or sauce.

“Instead of melted butter, which the leaves and heart are often dipped in, try a healthier alternative, like olive oil,” Dart recommends.

Balsamic vinegar and yogurt-based sauces are also flavorful, nutritious options.

The easiest way to incorporate artichokes into meals — including pizzas, pasta or even scrambled eggs — is to buy canned or frozen artichoke hearts, Dart says. “Those in cans and jars are packed in water or oil or a combination. Whether canned or frozen, try to choose lower-sodium options. If none

Artichokes have been popping up in many types of food items, even smoothies. They have antioxidants, as well as prebiotics and probiotics, compounds that may help foster healthy bacteria in the gut and aid in digestion.

There’s also some evidence that artichokes may help lower cholesterol while protecting the liver.

siteman.wustl.edu/YDR

8 oz mushrooms, sliced 6 oz artichoke hearts 1/4 cup sun-dried tomatoes 1/4 cup Greek olives, pitted 8 oz burrata (or mozzarella) cheese

PREPARATION

YOUR HEALTH TIPS Hank Dart, a Washington University public health expert at Siteman Cancer Center, acknowledges that there’s something enigmatic about artichokes. They’re part of the thistle family (and count daisies and dandelions among their relatives), and they’re made up of tough outer leaves called bracts; a bit of the artichoke’s edible heart lies at the base of each one.

Pinch salt

HANK DART

Washington University public health expert at Siteman Cancer Center PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

“Artichokes can make a great addition to a healthy diet filled with fruits, vegetables and whole grains, and low in red meat and processed meat,” Dart says. “It can take a little time to learn how best to use them — and prepare them — but it’s well worth it.”

Prepare pizza dough (if required) and set aside. Preheat oven according to cooking instructions on dough package.

Heat oil in medium pan. Add sliced mushrooms and season with pinch of salt. Sauté for 5 to 7 minutes, until soft. While mushrooms are cooking, slice sun-dried tomatoes and olives. Remove mushrooms from heat and set aside in small bowl. Add artichoke hearts to pan and drizzle with lemon juice. Warm over medium heat for 5 minutes.

Set aside. Spread pizza sauce over crust, leaving about an inch of crust uncovered around the outside. Top with mushrooms, artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes and olives. Tear burrata into 1-inch pieces and position over and around toppings. Bake per crust instructions until cheese is melted and bubbly and the center is fully cooked. Let cool for 5 minutes, then cut into slices and serve with a side of sauce for dipping!

Makes 4 servings (2 slices each). Approximately 287 calories, 19g fat, 22g carbs (4g fiber, 4g sugar), 16g protein (depending on crust used).

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

Defiance, M0

with Charles Miller / manager, Chandler Hill Vineyards

Why We’re Drinking Orange Wine with Thanksgiving Dinner

tThe acidity and tannins

of orange wine can stand up to rich dishes such as turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy.

tThe acidity works

as a palate-cleanser in

Written by Emily Wasserman / photography by sean locke

between bites of stuffing or sweet potato casserole, keeping you refreshed throughout the meal.

When Charles Miller, manager of Chandler Hill Vineyards in Defiance, Missouri, set out to make orange wine, he wanted it to both upend and exceed people’s expectations of Missouri wine. “I want to show people that Missouri wine,

tThe bright, zesty flavor of orange

wine complements

like all wine, is not all one thing,” Miller says. “The fact that we can do cool and forward-thinking things with Missouri grapes and create wine that can be put alongside any in the

citrus elements

world is important to me.” Orange wine, also known as skin-

in Thanksgiving

contact wine and amber wine, is made from white grapes

dishes, such as

that are pressed and fermented with the grape skins,

a squeeze of lemon over fresh green beans, lemon-Parmesan dressing on roasted Brussels sprouts or orange juice and zest in homemade cranberry sauce.

allowing them to contribute color, body and an impression of some tannins to the wine. Released in the summer of 2019, Chandler Hill’s Marigold is the first commercial orange wine produced in the state. The tropical, floral, zesty wine is an ideal pairing for Thanksgiving meals, where it balances the heavier, richer fare.

How would you describe Marigold? Orange wine is really cool because it’s basically white wine made like red wine. With a lot of orange wines, you can close your eyes and the texture and body feel like a red wine, whereas the aromas and the fruit and floral notes are like a white wine turned up to 11. With Marigold, you’re not getting just pineapple and citrus notes; you’re also getting deeper notes of pear, peach and orange, which I find really rare in a white wine. One of the reasons I love Marigold is that it has more body and the tannins give it a light, gritty, fine sandpaper quality.

How does Marigold compare to other orange wines being produced throughout the country? One of our goals when we began developing this wine was to gain the extra textures, flavors and aromas from the skins and to keep it as clean as possible. Marigold is not a natural wine, necessarily; a lot of orange wines are made completely without intervention. There’s a winery in California called Purity, for example, and I’m fanboying about those wines – they’re completely without intervention. Also, our orange wine doesn’t have a popular yeast that’s often used in wine; to make it more floral and tropical, we inoculate Marigold with a little bit of a different proven strain of wild yeast.

Why is orange wine so trendy right now? I think that wine-drinkers are looking for new things. Wine has many different versions, but for the most part, people have been drinking very similar things for hundreds of years. Orange wine was the first wave of wine made on purpose. In what is now the country of Georgia, people would take the grapes – oftentimes white grapes – crush them, throw them into clay pots buried in the ground and leave them there sometimes for a year or more, creating natural orange wine. It’s cool that the current trend is going back to the literal roots of winemaking. There’s also a huge surge of natural wine consumption in the world, and orange wine caters to the more natural and non-interventional mindset of many wine-drinkers today.

What should people know before they try orange wine? If you taste one orange wine, love it or hate it, the next one could be completely different. It’s like rosé: Not every rosé is created equal.

You might try Marigold and not like it, but I’d still tell you to try other orange wines. Don’t judge them all by one taste. These wines have a huge spectrum of flavor.

596 Defiance Road, Defiance, Missouri, chandlerhillvineyards.com / nov e mbe r 2 02 1

19

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What Is It?

Tiger nuts, or chufa, are tiny, wrinkly tubers – not nuts at all, but named as such due to their macadamia nut size and exterior stripes.

Depending on perspective, they can be your best friend or your worst enemy: Loaded with antioxidants, protein and fiber, they’re a versatile health food, but the plant from which they hail (yellow nutsedge) is the G.O.A.T. of the weed world, swiftly choking out all other crops.

What Do I Do With It?

You have plenty of choices when it comes to consuming tiger nuts. Bite into one and you’ll get a tropical, nutty flavor that pairs well with anything. Eat them raw or roasted in trail mix, or use them as a yogurt topping alongside fruit – like almonds, tiger nuts soften as they soak and become easier to chew. They can also be used in horchata or blended into smoothies for an extra dose of plant-based protein. Tiger nut flour is the most accessible way to use the tubers, though; naturally gluten-free, it can be used as a 1:1 substitute for allpurpose flour. For baking, try replacing up to half of your goto flour with tiger nut flour for a slightly healthier take with some subtly nutty undertones.

You can find peeled, ready-toeat whole tiger nuts at most international or Asian markets, and the milk and flour are easy to order online.

Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

20

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 1

With the holidays upon us, indulgences lurk around every corner.

This recipe is designed to feel indulgent while being relatively healthy. It’s vegan, sweetened with maple syrup and packed with festive yet nutritious ingredients, including figs, pumpkin seeds, cacao nibs and millet.

Fig & Cacao Holiday Bread serves 12

1¹⁄₃ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 cup tiger nut flour ²⁄₃ cup millet ¼ cup ground flaxseed 2 tsp baking powder 1 tsp baking soda ½ tsp kosher salt ½ tsp freshly ground cardamom, optional ¾ cup oat or cashew milk ²⁄₃ cup maple syrup ²⁄₃ cup olive oil 1 cup dried figs, roughly chopped ¹⁄₃ cup pepitas (pumpkin seeds), plus more for sprinkling ¹⁄₃ cup cacao nibs / preparation / Preheat oven to 350°F. Generously spray a tea loaf pan (or a standardsize loaf pan) with nonstick cooking oil spray.

In a large bowl, whisk together flours, millet, flaxseed, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cardamom, if using. In a medium bowl, whisk together milk, maple syrup and olive oil. Add wet ingredients to dry; using a spatula, mix until just incorporated. Fold in figs, pepitas and cacao nibs until evenly distributed. Pour mixture into prepared pan; sprinkle with more pepitas. Bake, 45 to 55 minutes, until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean or with only a few crumbs. Transfer pan to a wire rack and let cool completely before removing.

From Our Kitchen To Yours

Let Us Take The Work Out of Thanksgiving!

Fully prepared Thanksgiving meals and fresh turkeys.

/ to serve / Slice and serve at room temperature or warmed.

Serve this bread at breakfast or brunch, as it doesn’t swing too sweet or too savory. I like to bake it one day in advance to allow the flavors to really meld together before slicing and serving.

Call ahead to order 4324 Weber Road St. Louis MO 63123

314-631-2440 • Kenricks.com / nov e mbe r 2 02 1

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ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

SPRINGFIELD, MO

with Dani Hunnell /

pastry chef and owner, Dani’s Flour Pot Bakery seasonal specials from

Dani’s Flour Pot Bakery

maple-pecan pie

This is Hunnell’s take on the Thanksgiving staple, in which sweet maple syrup and crunchy pecans collide inside a perfectly crumbly crust.

thanksgiving shepherd’s pie Written by Sara Roelke photography by rhianon brown

After slinging pies from her cheery yellow Pie Wagon for a year and a half, Dani Hunnell, pastry chef and owner of Dani’s Flour Pot Bakery, recently moved her operation into The Royal on Cherry Street in Springfield, Missouri. Hunnell sells pies by the slice, hand pies, pot pies and pop tartlets by day, while B.J. Lowrance, owner of The Royal, mixes creative cocktails designed by Rogan Howitt, beverage director of Good Spirits & Co., by night. Hunnell’s expanded menu features flavors you won’t want to miss – especially during the holidays. Here, she dishes on her favorite sweet and savory treats and discusses the upsides of sharing one brick-and-mortar location between two businesses.

What are the benefits of sharing space with The Royal? For both of us, I’d say it will help bring more business to the area – not to mention the money we’ll save on rent, and who doesn’t want that? I think that we both really like how the space is utilized to its full potential now.

Personally, I can bake and offer so much more, too, including my ready-to-eat savory pies.

What are some standout items on the menu right now? My pop tartlets have been getting a lot of attention, and I’m excited to offer savory breakfast pop tartlets, as well. I think they remind people of when they were kids, but they taste so much better than the packaged ones from the store. As far as seasonal pies, I usually serve maple-pecan, pumpkin-buttermilk, pumpkin spice latte, caramel apple, applebuttermilk and orange-cinnamon-buttermilk.

You’ll be able to get the basic Thanksgiving favorites and a few other fun flavors.

A number of your pies, such as the vinegar pie and those with buttermilk bases, are inspired

by recipes that were common during the Great Depression. What sparked this direction in your baking? Some of the people closest to me are the ones who got me into baking. When they found out that I was making pies, they really wanted flavors that their parents would have made for them when they were kids, often during the Great Depression. I learned all about those recipes, the ingredients in them and why those ingredients were used. Overall, I like the old-fashioned buttermilk flavors, and vinegar pie is just the best. The name is daunting, but I promise it’s delicious. A lot of people don’t know what [desperation pies] are, so I feel like it’s my job to show them.

What does Dani’s Flour Pot Bakery bring to the Springfield food scene? Besides tasty pies? I’d say just a lot of unique foods that you can’t get anywhere else as well as old recipes that will take your taste buds back in time.

1427 E. Cherry St., Suite B (inside The Royal), Springfield, Missouri, danisflourpotbakery.com

Get all of your favorite Thanksgiving flavors in one bite. This crowd-pleaser is filled with shredded turkey, green beans, mashed potatoes and gravy and topped with housemade cranberry sauce.

pumpkin spice latte pie

Featuring pillowy pumpkin, scrumptious spices and a swirl of coffee, this pie embodies the flavors and aromas of the quintessential fall drink. / nov e mbe r 2 02 1

23

Cranberry-Pear Pâté de Fruit

the mix / the dish / healthy appetite / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / crash course

24

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 1

In lieu of pie, present sparkling, sugar-coated squares of pâté de fruit at Your Thanksgiving gathering.

The traditional French confection is a flavorpacked dessert akin to fruit jellies. Here, they feature a dual layer of tart cranberry and sweet pear for a complex and complete flavor that will leave everyone at the table reaching for more.

Vegan and gluten-free, they’re also an excellent gift of gratitude to send home with guests.

Story, recipe and photography by Teresa Floyd, food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com

YIELDS 48 1-inch squares Pear Pâté de Fruit 1 cup, plus 5 tsp, sugar, divided 2 tsp yellow pectin 7 oz pear purée 2 Tbsp glucose or light corn syrup ½ tsp citric acid Cranberry Pâté de Fruit 1½ cups, plus 2 Tbsp, sugar, divided 3 tsp yellow pectin 8 oz pure cranberry juice 2 Tbsp glucose or light corn syrup ½ tsp citric acid

In this recipe, yellow pectin cannot be interchanged with any other pectin.

Yellow pectin is available online and in some specialty grocery stores.

Make your own pear purée by peeling, coring and processing fresh ripe pears in a food processor until smooth.

/ preparation – pear pâté de fruit / Line an 8-by-8-inch baking pan with parchment paper on both the bottom and the sides.

In a small bowl, combine 5 teaspoons sugar and yellow pectin (this will help to minimize clumping when added to the liquid). Set aside.

Place pear purée in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan with a candy thermometer attached to the inside. Slowly add the sugar-pectin mixture in a steady stream, whisking to combine. Bring mixture to a boil over medium-high heat. Whisk in glucose or light corn syrup; continue whisking until mixture returns to a boil.

Whisk in ½ cup sugar; continue whisking until mixture returns to a boil. Whisk in remaining sugar; continue whisking until mixture returns to a boil. Whisking constantly to prevent scorching, continue to cook mixture until it reaches 216°F on the candy thermometer, approximately 4 minutes.

Remove from heat and immediately whisk in citric acid. Pour mixture into prepared baking pan. Working quickly, tilt pan to evenly distribute the mixture into all corners, creating an even layer. Set on a wire rack to cool, at least 10 minutes or until set to the touch, before adding the second layer.

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/ preparation – cranberry pâté de fruit / In a small bowl, combine 2 tablespoons sugar and yellow pectin. Set aside.

Place cranberry juice in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan with a candy thermometer attached to the inside. Slowly add the sugar-pectin mixture in a steady stream, whisking to combine. Bring mixture to a boil over mediumhigh heat. Whisk in glucose or light corn syrup; continue whisking until mixture returns to a boil. Whisk in ¾ cup sugar; continue whisking until mixture returns to a boil. Whisk in remaining sugar; continue whisking until mixture returns to a boil. Whisking constantly to prevent scorching, continue to cook mixture until it reaches 223°F on the candy thermometer, approximately 5 minutes.

Remove from heat and immediately whisk in citric acid. Pour mixture on top of set pear pâté de fruit layer. Allow to cool completely, at least 3 hours or overnight. / assembly / Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Fill a large bowl with 1 cup sugar. Set aside.

Using the parchment paper as handles, gently pull pâté de fruit out of baking pan and set on a cutting board. Generously sprinkle with sugar and rub it across the entire surface. Carefully flip pâté de fruit and peel off parchment paper. Again, generously sprinkle with sugar and rub it across the entire surface. (Coating both sides of the pâté de fruit with sugar will make it easier to handle while cutting.)

Flip pâté de fruit again so that the cranberry layer is on top. Using a large chef’s knife, cut into 1-inch squares, rinsing the blade under very hot water and drying it between cuts. Drop a few squares into the sugar bowl and roll them around to completely coat sides. Place coated squares on prepared baking sheet, evenly spaced, not touching. Repeat process until all the squares are coated.

Serve and enjoy.

Any remaining pâté de fruit should be left out, uncovered, at room temperature for 24 hours. This will help to create a very thin crust around the candies to prevent “weeping.” The next day, store pâté de fruit in a single layer in an airtight container for up to two weeks.

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PURCHASE YOUR TICKETS TODAY AT STLtoday.com/ourevents

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 1

25

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Whole Roasted Cauliflower with Orange-Pomegranate Glaze Pomegranate and orange are some of my favorite flavors of the season, and they brighten up any meal. The acidity of the orange and the slight sourness of the pomegranate harmonize especially well in this glaze, which I drizzle over a roasted head of cauliflower. The dish works as a side for Thanksgiving or as a vegetarian main throughout the winter.

Written by Amy Feese / Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

In this class, you might find your new favorite Thanksgiving side or dessert.

Get Hands-On Join Schnucks Cooking School chef Amy Feese on Zoom at 2pm on Sat., Nov. 20 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu.

For more information on everything you’ll need for the virtual class, from cookware to ingredients, contact the cooking school directly. nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704 26

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 1

serves 6 1 3 1

6 ¼

¼ ¹⁄₃ 1 2

1

large cauliflower clementines, sliced large red onion, cut into ¼-inch slices cloves garlic, smashed cup olive oil, plus more for basting salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste cup pomegranate molasses cup freshly squeezed orange juice Tbsp honey tsp red chile flakes seeds from 1 pomegranate oz mint leaves, torn

/ preparation / Place a pan of hot water in the bottom of the oven (this will create steam) and preheat oven to 375°F. Break off and discard outer leaves of cauliflower. Cut off the bottom of the stem and then use the tip of a small, sharp knife to cut off the leaves close to the stem. Carefully cut out the hard core, near the bottom, leaving the main stem intact. (Be sure to not cut off any florets.) Coat cauliflower, clementines, red onion and garlic with olive oil; season with salt and pepper.

On a baking sheet, arrange clementines, onion and garlic; place cauliflower on top. Bake, 45 minutes, basting with more olive oil every 15 minutes.

MAKE THE MEAL • Whole Roasted Cauliflower with Orange-Pomegranate Glaze • Sweet Potatoes with Maple-Bacon Candy • Pecan Pie Crust • Caramel Pumpkin Pie Meanwhile, prepare glaze. Mix pomegranate molasses, orange juice, honey, red chile flakes, salt and pepper together in a bowl. After cauliflower has finished roasting, glaze with pomegranate mixture.

Bake until cauliflower is tender and glaze begins to caramelize, approximately 15 minutes. Remove cauliflower from oven. Arrange clementines, pomegranate seeds and mint on a serving plate; top with whole roasted cauliflower. Serve warm.

CULINARY LIBRARY /

CREVE COEUR, MO

with DeMarco Howard / chef and co-owner, Gobble Stop Smokehouse t December might be the most wonderful time of the year, but November is the best month for business at

Gobble Stop Smokehouse in Creve Coeur, Missouri. Chef and co-owner DeMarco Howard opened the barbecue joint in 2012, emboldened by his family’s secret recipe for juicy, smoky turkey tips. Throughout the year, the turkey tips, along with turkey ribs, are a popular offering, but for Thanksgiving, the draw is undoubtedly the restaurant’s whole smoked and fried turkeys. This year, Howard is also offering petite Cajun turkeys – a balance of smoke and spice – and a twist on his family’s banana pudding recipe. Here, he shares three cookbooks that cover all the bases.

–Burk Krohe

photo by sarah conard

European Tarts

Boy Meets Grill

The Barbecue! Bible

by Helen S. Fletcher (2012) by Bobby Flay (1999)

by Steven Raichlen (1998)

“This book is by Helen Fletcher, right out of St. Louis. The focus is tarts and other uncomplicated desserts that require little or no baking. It has the finest chocolates, and everything’s from scratch. It’s very unique – you won’t find any other book concerning desserts like it.”

“This book has a lot in it. It deals with vegetables, chicken, steak and fish, and it has an abundance of flavors as well as different cuisines. It covers all aspects of barbecue, including different styles.”

oven roasted turkey

“Boy Meets Grill is a really interesting book, with more than 125 recipes. It gave me different ideas for ways to use serrano peppers, rice wines and herbs as well as different concepts for lobster and chicken. And marinades – I’m always looking for marinades.”

pumpkin pie

Thanksgiving Food & Wine Pairings noboleisvineyards.com

Chambourcin

Baril de Blanc

honey baked ham

Vino Dulce

Steepleview

Viognier

all your favorite sides / nov e mbe r 2 02 1

27

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Amaro, meaning “bitter” in Italian, is an herbal liqueur with a bittersweet flavor. To make amaro, producers infuse a base spirit, such as grape brandy or a neutral spirit, with any number of botanicals – some more familiar (bitter orange, cardamom, cinnamon, juniper, mint, rhubarb, star anise) and others more mysterious (angelica root, cinchona, gentian, quassia, wormwood, yaupon holly).

The result is a complex category of spirits that spans artichoke-forward Cynar, cherryred Campari and bitter, black Fernet-Branca.

Written by Tessa Cooper

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 1

Come visit us for some of the best burgers, beer, and atmosphere in town!

Amaro is a cocktail in and of itself, best served as an apéritif or

Jack Nolen’s

digestif. Connoisseurs will admit

2501 S. 9th St.

that some traditional amari are

in Soulard!

an acquired taste, but once you’ve

Sunday: 11:00am–5:00pm Monday: Closed Tuesday – Saturday: 11:00am – 10:00pm

converted, you’re hooked for life. This Thanksgiving, take amaro for a test drive – it will help to stimulate your appetite and then digest the feast.

Purists argue that amari are strictly digestifs, but some industry veterans

thanksgiving

believe certain types make for ideal apéritifs, exciting the palate and opening up the taste buds. “Amari have become so popular in the last several years,” says Jeffrey Moll, a bartender at Planter’s House in St. Louis. “They’ve really widened their reach, and now there are so many variations and styles [that] amaro walks the line between an apéritif and a digestif; I would

THE HOLIDAYS ARE ALMOST HERE!

say it’s more of a situational thing.”

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Characteristics Flavor & Aroma How to Serve It

Amari as Apéritifs

Amari as Digestifs

light; sometimes

dark

wine-based

and thick

citrus- or

herbal

artichoke-forward

and spicy

usually served

typically enjoyed

over ice with

neat or on the

tonic water or in

rocks after a

a cocktail before

meal to reap

a meal to awaken

the digestive

the taste buds

benefits

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/ nov e mbe r 2 02 1

29

the mix / the dish / healthy appetite / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / crash course

Whether you’re looking for an apéritif or digestif, we suggest seeking out these amari to start your spirited exploration.

Must-Try Amari

Cynar

Fernet

A low-ABV bitters, Cynar falls

Considered one of the most

under the carciofo (artichoke)

bitter amari, Fernet has an

category. Before you dismiss it,

aggressive flavor, almost like

this is a drinkable bitters that can

black licorice devoid of sugar.

be sipped alone or with a splash of seltzer. “There’s a whole category of artichoke bitters, and those, historically, have been used ahead

A go-to after an especially heavy meal, it can be served in myriad ways. “I really like caffè corretto, a cocktail that’s

of a meal,” says Aaron Rozeboom,

traditionally made with Fernet,”

southern Missouri sales manager

Kendele Noto Sieve says. “It has

for Vintegrity Wine & Spirits in

a shot of espresso and hazelnut

Kansas City. “You can lengthen

liqueur in it; it’s just fabulous.

them with ice or tonic water.”

Campari With orange peel, cherry, clove and cinnamon at play, Campari works well with soda water, but it’s best-known

I can drink it like a Martini.”

Caffè Amaro From Kansas City’s J. Rieger & Co., Caffè Amaro is a unique take on coffee liqueur that features

for its leading role in the Negroni.

Thou Mayest single-origin coffee.

Both sweet and bitter at first taste

It briefly ages in a whiskey barrel,

with a striking red color, Campari is

resulting in a rich, bittersweet

widely considered to be an apéritif.

flavor with hints of cardamom,

The actual recipe for the liqueur is a

juniper berries, orange peel,

well-kept secret – in fact, according

star anise and other botanicals.

to Eligio Bossetti, an Italian historian,

“It was inspired by the fact that

only three people know the secret

there weren’t a lot of good coffee

formula, and nobody even knows who

liqueurs on the market, and I love

those three people are.

the pairing of coffee and amaro together,” says Ryan Maybee,

Aperol If Negronis make you grimace, we suggest easing your way into the realm of amari with Aperol. A bright

Averna In true digestif fashion, Averna

slightly bitter, zesty orange flavor

is herbal and spicy with notes

with a touch of vanilla. “Having an Aperol Spritz made me more interested in trying different amari,” says Wayne Sieve, who has started an impressive amaro program at Noto in St. Peters, Missouri, with his wife, Kendele Noto Sieve. feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 1

Neat or on the rocks, amaro is a fitting finale of a big holiday production. That said, you can also transform it into more of a drinking experience by mixing it into a Caffè Colada for dessert.

Made with J. Rieger & Co. Caffè Amaro and Kansas City Whiskey, the icy cocktail also features coconut cream and pineapple for year-round appeal.

Recipe by Andrew Olsen, national beverage director, J. Rieger & Co.

managing director.

orange apéritif, the liqueur has a with complex herbal aromas balanced

30

the distillery’s co-founder and

Caffè Colada

of caramel and honey; some people also discern cola or vanilla flavors. Like most amari, the exact recipe is proprietary, so it’s open for interpretation.

Commonly served neat or on the rocks, it works well in a simple cocktail such as a highball, as well.

Serves 1 2 5 1½ 1½ ¾ ¾

cups ice chunks fresh pineapple oz coconut cream oz pineapple juice oz Caffè Amaro oz Kansas City Whiskey

/ preparation / Combine all ingredients in a blender; blend on high until mixture is mostly smooth. Pour mixture into your favorite festive cocktail glass. Garnish with an orange slice, a cherry and a pineapple leaf, if desired.

photography by zach bauman; illustrations by Abigail McNaghten

Kansas City locals can order a Caffè Colada mixed by a pro at Elect ric Park Garden Bar, which opened last month.

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 1

31

From samosas to shaak, switch up your Thanksgiving spread with these Indian-inspired recipes from The Wildseed in Strafford, Missouri.

You don’t often see chicken curry with basmati rice, chana masala

When Walker’s mother cooks traditional Indian dishes, they’re

and paratha on a menu alongside a barbecue pork chop with fried

usually vegetarian, and curry dishes and spicy foods are common

okra and mac ‘n’ cheese – especially not in Strafford, Missouri.

at Walker’s own table. When she and her mother-in-law cook separately, they tend to focus on foods that their children favor.

Yet this is exactly the void that Tammy Stafford and Rima Walker

When they cook together, though, they create a menu that fuses

hope to fill. The mother- and daughter-in-law duo opened The

meat, vegetarian dishes, spicy foods and milder options to please

Wildseed Restaurant & Bar in Strafford, just outside of Springfield,

everyone at the table.

Missouri, in 2017. They didn’t have any restaurant experience: Stafford worked in childcare, and Walker – who immigrated to the

“We make a dish called Indian Spaghetti with spaghetti noodles,

U.S. from Ahmedabad, a city in western India, with her parents as

sautéed onions and a sweet and spicy sauce, created with a

a toddler – came from a hotel background. Walker’s family owns

combination of Indian seasonings,” Walker says. “Once the sauce is

the hotel adjacent to what is now The Wildseed, and guests would

added to the pasta, it’s cooked over low heat, allowing the dish to

always ask for a good place to eat. Finally, this sparked an idea.

be served with a lot of flavor and heat, but [it’s] not overly saucy. The kids – both mine and Tammy’s – love this dish as is, or when Tammy

“Rima’s mom is an amazing cook,” Stafford says. “So really, Rima

makes chili, we add it to the top. It was added to The Wildseed menu

grew up with an amazing example of how to prepare great Indian

and became an instant hit. It’s a great way to show how we are able

food, and then for me, it was more traditional comfort food from

to combine families, flavors and cultures.”

Missouri. Indian food is more vegetarian, and here, it’s meat everywhere. [We were] on the search for what would go well with an

The Wildseed’s duality is even on display at the owners’ own

Indian dish that would cover the protein side of an American dish;

Thanksgiving table. Stafford hosts and cooks a traditional turkey

that’s kind of where we started playing with some different flavors

or ham, stuffing and potatoes. When Walker joined the family, she

and those kinds of things to combine them together.”

began bringing the sides she grew up eating, including egg curry.

The menu at The Wildseed draws on both Stafford’s and Walker’s

“My son’s favorite dish is egg curry, so I often serve it [at

family recipes, and Walker uses her mother’s coveted curry gravy

Thanksgiving],” Walker says. “Because it has boiled eggs, I then also

recipe to great effect in a classic chicken curry. Samosa chaat

make deviled eggs. It becomes like a potluck dinner with everyone

is another Indian-focused dish with a Missouri influence: Crispy

bringing some of their favorite dishes.

samosas are stuffed with spiced potatoes and peas and topped with chana masala, diced tomatoes, red onions, cilantro, sev (crispy

“Because our family and friends are so diverse, we don’t set out

Indian noodles made from chickpea flour), cilantro chutney, sweet

to create a meal that ‘goes well’ with turkey or ham,” she adds.

yogurt and an apple butter-tamarind chutney.

“We create a table that is filled with good food, and everyone will try something new or find something they already love that they’ve

Although it might sound like an unlikely culinary partnership, Walker

waited for, knowing it will be on the table at Thanksgiving!”

says many Indian spices are complementary to American comfort food, which makes it easy to blend the two cuisines together. The

Here, Walker shares a few beloved family recipes, ideal for

restaurant’s beef enchiladas might not sound like a fusion dish at all,

adding a little spice to your own Thanksgiving feast.

but Walker uses Indian spices such as garam masala to give them a warming depth of flavor and serves them with turmeric basmati rice.

Written by Nancy Stiles 32

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 1

305 E. Chestnut St., Strafford, Missouri, eatwildseed.com

Photography by Dan Rockafellow

Roti

SCAN ME! Get the recipe for Tammy Stafford's Thanksgiving ham at feastmagazine.com.

P otato Samosas

P otato & C a b bag e Shaak

V e g e ta b l e Khichdi

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 1

33

“My mom would often serve samosas – an Indian snack or appetizer – and chai in the afternoon. Served with chutney such as apple butter-tamarind or cilantro, these samosas are both sweet and savory.”

Yields 14 samosas Samosa Dough

2 cups maida (all-purpose flour)

1 tsp ajwain salt, to taste 4 Tbsp oil water, for kneading dough Samosa Filling 3 to 4 medium potatoes, peeled

1 Tbsp oil, plus more for frying

2 tsp crushed coriander seeds

1 tsp cumin seeds

1 tsp fennel seeds

1 tsp chopped ginger

2 green chiles, chopped

1 pinch hing ½ cup green peas

1 tsp coriander powder ½ tsp garam masala ½ tsp amchoor powder ½ tsp red chile powder salt, to taste / preparation – samosa dough / In a large bowl, combine maida, ajwain and salt; mix well.

Add oil; using your fingers, mix until incorporated (mixture should resemble crumbs). Add water; using your hands, form mixture into stiff dough.

Cover bowl with a moist cloth; allow dough to sit, 30 minutes. / preparation – samosa filling / Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add potatoes; cook until tender, approximately 20 minutes. Once tender, drain potatoes. Once cool, mash potatoes.

In a medium saucepan set over medium heat, add oil. Once oil is hot, add crushed coriander seeds, cumin seeds and fennel seeds; sizzle, a few seconds. Add ginger, chiles and hing; cook, 1 minute. Add mashed potatoes and green peas; stir to combine. Add coriander powder, garam masala, amchoor powder, red chile powder and salt; stir to incorporate. Remove pan from heat and let filling cool.

34

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 1

/ assembly / Knead dough until stiff. Using your hands, evenly divide dough into 7 pieces and roll pieces into balls. Set one ball aside and cover remaining balls with a moist cloth. Using a rolling pin, roll out dough ball into a 6- to 7-inch round; cut round in half. Using your fingers or a basting brush, apply a small amount of water to the straight edge of one of the halves. Bring the straight edge of the dough together to form a cone and pinch seam together. Fill cone with approximately 2 tablespoons of potato filling.

Apply water to top edge; pinch edges together to seal samosa closed. Repeat process until all of the samosas have been formed.

In a medium saucepan set over low heat, heat approximately 1½ inches oil. Drop two or three shaped samosas into hot oil; fry until samosas are firm and light brown in color, 10 to 12 minutes.

Repeat process with remaining samosas. Serve hot with your chutney of choice.

“The word ‘shaak’ means vegetable, and a shaak is usually served as a side dish. You can sub in any vegetables you like; potato-cabbage or cauliflower shaak are my favorites, while others in the family love green bean shaak. Many spices, including cumin seeds, turmeric and garam masala, come together to create the flavor in the dish.” serves 2 to 3 1½ ½

1

2

1 1 to 2 ½ ½ ¹⁄₈

2

2

Tbsp oil tsp cumin seeds tsp minced garlic potatoes, peeled and cubed pinch hing green chiles tsp red chile powder tsp garam masala tsp turmeric cups chopped cabbage Tbsp coriander leaves, finely chopped salt, to taste

/ preparation / In a medium saucepan set over medium heat, add oil. Once oil is hot, add cumin seeds; let them bloom (crackle and pop), a few seconds. Add garlic; sauté until fragrant.

Add potatoes and hing; sauté, 2 to 3 minutes.

Cover and cook until potatoes are al dente, approximately 10 minutes (be careful not to overcook). Add green chiles, chile powder, garam masala and turmeric; stir to incorporate.

Add cabbage, coriander leaves and salt; stir to incorporate. Serve warm.

“This Indian flatbread is made with only two ingredients: atta (wholewheat flour) and water. Watching my mom make roti is one of my best memories – I still love to watch her to this day. After she makes the dough, without measuring, she pinches off the amount needed and, with ease, begins to roll it out using a velan (rolling pin). The dough begins to spin on the board in a circular motion; each one comes out perfect. Then it’s placed on a hot skillet for a few seconds while you wait for it to bubble up. The excitement I had as a child when it puffed up like a balloon was – and still is – an awe-filled moment. A warm roti with ghee is simply the best. My kids have now taken my place trying to get the first one.” yields 12 roti

2

1 to 2 ¾

cups whole-wheat flour, plus more for rolling tsp oil, optional cup, plus 1 Tbsp, water, to knead dough ghee, to brush roti

/ preparation / In a large bowl, add flour and oil, if using. Gradually add water, mixing dough with your hands as you go. Once dough starts to come together, knead until it feels soft and pliable.

Cover dough with a damp cloth or paper towel; let sit, 20 to 30 minutes.

After dough has rested, briefly knead again and then divide into 12 equal parts. Set one piece of dough aside and cover remaining pieces with a moist cloth. Roll dough piece between your palms to make it round and smooth (there should be no cracks). Set ball on countertop and flatten slightly. Add approximately ¼ cup flour to a plate; roll prepared dough ball in flour to coat on all sides. Using a rolling pin, roll out into a 5- to 6-inch round, adding more flour as needed.

Repeat process with remaining dough pieces.

Set a skillet over medium-high heat. Dust excess flour off rounds and add to skillet; cook until bubbles appear on top, 15 to 30 seconds. Flip and continue cooking, 30 seconds. When you start to see brown spots all over, it’s cooked. Using tongs, remove roti from skillet and place directly on flame until it puffs up; flip to cook the other side. Remove from heat and immediately brush with ghee.

“Vegetable khichdi is one of those quick vegetarian main dishes that my mom would put together in a pinch. Now, as a mom in a house where not everyone is vegetarian, I’ll make khichdi when I need a quick meal and serve it with fish – then everyone at the table is satisfied.” serves 2 ½ ¼

¼

1

2

1

3 ½ ½

2 ½ ¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ 1½

1 ½ ½ ½

2½

cup short-grain rice, rinsed cup yellow moong dal (split and skinless), rinsed cup chilke wali moong dal, rinsed ½-inch piece ginger, minced cloves garlic green chile Tbsp oil tsp mustard seeds tsp cumin seeds dried red chiles cup chopped red onion cup chopped tomato cup chopped carrot cup green peas cup chopped green bell pepper cup peeled and cubed potatoes tsp red chile powder tsp coriander powder tsp turmeric powder tsp cumin powder tsp garam masala salt, to taste cups water

/ preparation / In a bowl of water, soak rice and dals, 30 minutes. Using a mortar and pestle, crush ginger, garlic and green chile until a paste forms.

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In a medium saucepan set over medium heat, add oil. Once oil is hot, add mustard seeds. When they begin to pop, add cumin seeds; sizzle, a few seconds. Add red chiles, onion and ginger-garlic-green chile paste; cook until onion is soft and translucent, approximately 10 minutes.

Add all remaining ingredients, except water; stir until well combined. Add water; reduce heat to low and cook until vegetables are almost cooked through, approximately 10 minutes (add more water as needed to achieve a soupy texture, if desired). Add drained rice and dals; increase heat and bring mixture to a boil.

Lower heat again and simmer until rice and dal are soft, approximately 20 minutes.

Remove from heat, cover and let stand, approximately 5 minutes. Serve hot.

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 1

35

By providing access to fresh, healthy and affordable food,

Kanbe’s Markets is working to eliminate food deserts

in the Kansas City area, one corner store at a time.

Written by Natalie Torres Gallagher | Photography by Paul Andrews

Shops participating in the Healthy

are looking at a pallet [of produce] and see

to a whiteboard behind the assembly line.

Corner Store program receive a

one apple on top that doesn’t meet their

“We weigh the produce so that we can send

refrigerated cooler and standing

standards, they don’t have the time or the

donation receipts to the wholesalers, and we

basket rack at no cost. There is also

manpower to go through the entire thing,”

track where the produce is going – whether

no upfront cost for the produce,

Kaniger says. “It’s OK for them to move that

we’re sending it to stores or farmers, if it’s being

which includes an assortment of

food out if there is an organization like us to

composted, everything.” This information is

20 to 30 whole, uncut fruits and

receive it. We can have volunteers sort through

tallied each month in a Google spreadsheet that

vegetables (you can regularly

it and say, ‘This is grocery store-quality food,’

surpasses 700,000 rows of data.

find apples, oranges, bananas,

and we can send it to our corner stores. If

strawberries, broccoli, potatoes,

it’s something I could still eat but not sell –

Kanbe’s doesn’t rely solely on food donations:

onions, tomatoes, carrots, corn, a

something like bruised apples, brown bananas,

They also purchase – sometimes discounted,

rotation of lettuce and leafy greens).

cucumbers or mushrooms – we send it to

sometimes at full price – from wholesalers

After the Harvest.”

and local farms, taking whatever the growers

The Fav Trip on West 23rd Street in

It’s hard to keep up with Max Kaniger.

The 31-year-old founder and CEO of Kanbe’s

couldn’t sell to restaurants or at farmers’

Independence, Missouri, was among

Kansas City-based nonprofit After the

markets. This summer, the Kanbe’s coolers

the first to sign up for the Healthy

Harvest accepts fruits and vegetables that

were stocked with vibrant jalapeño, cayenne

Corner Store program, largely

aren’t suitable for retail but are still edible

and habanero peppers from BoysGrow and

because Babir Sultan, the company’s

and distributes them to agencies that serve

microgreens from City Bitty Farm in southeast

president and CEO, recognized that without a

hungry people, including Harvesters. If the

Kansas City.

grocery store in the area, his customers were

produce isn’t suitable for human consumption,

going without access to healthy food.

Kanbe’s sends it to area farmers, such as Josh

“There are people who are food- and health-rich,

Markets, a five-year-old nonprofit dedicated

Anderson, owner and operator at Boss Farm

and there are people who struggle every day

to eliminating food waste and food insecurity,

“It’s about empowering people to make better

Industries, who turn it into feed for livestock.

with health and food resources. And there are

talks quickly. As he provides a tour of

choices, and we hear that from customers

Everything else is composted and distributed

people like Max and [organizations like] Kanbe's,

the company’s new 27,000-square-foot

all the time,” Sultan says. “If the healthy

to local grower partners, such as Anderson,

working to bring food resources to people

warehouse located in Kansas City’s Coleman

alternative is there, it makes the decision-

who is also the farm manager at BoysGrow,

who need them,” says City Bitty owner Greg

Highlands neighborhood, he tosses out facts

making process easier, and it goes on from

who transform what would have been waste

Garbos. “The last 18 months have taught us so

and anecdotes as casually as he greets Edgar

there. A ton of stores don’t even have that

into nutrient-dense soil.

much about food, water, shelter and health. The

Contreras, the driver who has just ended his

healthy alternative.”

shift for the day, and the assembly line of volunteers sorting fruit.

future of food needs agents of change – it’s that “We track everything,” Kaniger says, gesturing

simple. And Max is an agent of change.”

Kanbe’s delivers daily, taking back any inventory that has passed its prime (it

At its core, Kanbe’s is a food delivery service.

becomes feed for livestock or compost), and

There are several branches of the business

the shops keep 30 percent of the sales profit

model, but when it launched, its focus was

(the rest is routed back to Kanbe’s to cover

the Healthy Corner Store program, which

operating costs). The goal of the stores in the

to this day continues to deliver fresh

program is to report an annual profit margin

fruits and vegetables to participating

increase upwards of $10,000.

convenience stores and gas stations located in neighborhoods that the USDA had deemed

“They bring a variety, and they switch it up

food deserts. The mission was to provide

seasonally, so we’re offering fresh produce

access to fresh, healthy and affordable food

that changes, and people get excited to see

to populations that don’t have convenient

that,” Sultan says. “They come in every day to

access to it, for whom a trip to the nearest

stock us up, and the things that we don’t sell,

grocery store requires transportation that

they take back – that’s big for us. Normally, if

might not be readily available.

fresh produce goes bad, you eat the cost.”

“The average time to get to the grocery

Kanbe’s manages the inventory, too. Each

store is 45 minutes, and if I’ve worked all

year, up to 40 percent of the nation’s food

day – maybe at more than one job – I couldn’t

supply is wasted, and most of that is fruits

spend an extra 45 minutes getting to the

and vegetables. Rather than sending their

grocery store, let alone cooking,” Kaniger

imperfect produce – the stuff they can’t sell to

says. “I would much rather walk to the corner

retailers – to a landfill, wholesalers make a tax-

store, grab a frozen pizza and throw it in

deductible donation to Kanbe’s, which can load

the oven. Over time, that repeated behavior

up to 10 pallets (approximately 800 pounds

becomes an issue and has significant health

each) into a refrigerated truck. Kaniger’s staff

repercussions. Rather than vilifying people

then triages the food as it comes in.

for making those choices or the suppliers for not getting to those stores, we can create a

“The wholesalers we work with move a lot

solution that’s more equitable.”

of food really, really quickly, and if they / /nov o ceto mbe be r 2 02 1

%PG 37

the pandemic, he’d make upwards of 500 meals a day and donate them to local organizations.

And Chef Collective was just one of almost 60 organizations that were on Kanbe’s delivery list. Kaniger was also approached by the Mid-America Regional Council to assist with distribution of their frozen meals, along with fresh fruits and vegetables.

A home delivery meal program is Kaniger’s next idea. The Kanbe’s warehouse space has the bones – and plenty equipment – for a commercial kitchen; Kaniger is exploring what it will take to make it functional again. He’d like to hire a chef, train a staff and see if Kanbe’s could create up to 100,000 nutritious, highquality meals a month. Gesturing toward the empty spaces, walls and storage piles, Kaniger outlines a prep room, a dishwashing area, a space for repackaging.

In the meantime, he has Ethel, on loan from Foust, who has since relocated to Pittsburgh.

When she’s not in use, Ethel is parked in an area of the warehouse that Kaniger has temporarily sublet to another company, surrounded by filing cabinets and boxes. “For now, it helps keep the lights on,” Kaniger says.

PICTURED: Kanbe's Markets produce at Fav Trip in Independance, Missouri

O

receive funding for every box donated to a

B

f course, the pandemic changed

When the USDA introduced the Farmers to

everything.

Family Food Box Program – where wholesalers

y 2026, Kaniger believes that Kansas City could be the first city in the country to

eliminate food deserts, and he’s well on track

In 2021, Kanbe’s will spend more than a

“All the issues that COVID brought already

nonprofit – Kanbe’s went from processing

to see that goal through. He has a growth

quarter million dollars on food, the majority

existed – they just became harder for us

20,000 pounds of produce a month to

expansion model in mind, and at the moment,

of which goes back into the local community.

to ignore,” Kaniger says. “My phone was

sometimes processing that much in a single

he’s thinking through what a partnership with

Kaniger’s dream, he says, is to offer a “safety

blowing up from all different places wanting

day on days when volunteers were plenty.

Kansas City Public Schools or other regional

net” to farmers and community growers – to

and needing help. People were supposed to

provide a reliable way for them to get top

be in lockdown, so there was more of a need

“The nonprofits that they were trying to

dollar for what they’re selling. He’s got a plan

for us to have corner stores with healthy

donate to didn’t have the ability to receive

for that, too, and much more. Today, there

food options, and there was a need for us to

the same amounts as big-box stores, so we

“Over the years, we’ve built this centralized –

are 43 participating locations in the Healthy

grow that program quickly.”

started working with them as a drop point, as

but fragile – food system that has made some

the middle man,” Kaniger explains. “Instead of

things affordable for some people,” Kaniger

Corner Store program, giving more than

agencies could look like. Why not serve meals at bus stops?

200,000 people access to fresh produce

To meet demand, Kanbe’s Healthy Corner

worrying about getting one pallet of food to a

says. “I think people are ready to build a

within a half mile of their residence – and

Store program jumped from 12 participating

place, wholesalers could come here and drop

more robust and resilient food system, and I

that’s just the beginning.

stores to 40 in 2020. That meant hiring

26 pallets. That meant we were partnering

think we’re the missing piece. We’re the thing

more staff: Between March and April last

with more organizations.”

wholesalers can donate to in volume, which is

“There’s that connection to a place that,

year, Kanbe’s went from five employees to

when you’re from there, you can see it

15. And there was plenty of work.

differently than someone else ever could,”

what they’re looking for, and we can then get One such organization was Chef Collective

that produce to the neighborhood mom-and-

KC, a COVID-19 effect that converted local

pop shops that can’t afford to purchase in bulk.

Kaniger says. “It’s the same here in the east

“We took 10 pallets’ worth of food to [an

restaurants into community kitchens. Those

We don’t need to build new stores or a customer

side of Kansas City. People who live there,

east Kansas City] church, and it was gone in

kitchens received produce from Kanbe’s and

base – the food is there, the infrastructure is

who were born there, can remake their own

15 minutes. You couldn’t move fast enough,

created nutritious, affordable boxed meals

there. At the end of the day, the people we are

neighborhoods. The privilege I’ve been given

and when it was gone, there was still a line

that were then distributed to local nonprofit

trying to serve are the solution. All the pieces of

allows me to create a system that helps them

of hungry people,” Kaniger recalls. “Knowing

agencies. Michael Foust, the former chef and

the puzzle are in place.”

thrive – or at least isn’t stopping them. The

that we’re part of the solution is great, but

co-owner of The Farmhouse and Black Sheep

people we’re helping don’t need our help –

seeing how much help is still needed is hard.

+ Market in Kansas City, parked Ethel – the

they need a fair playing field so they can

We’re a small team. No matter how much we

vintage airstream that he converted into a

help themselves.”

did, more help was needed.”

food truck – in the Kanbe’s lot, and during

38

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 1

And Kaniger loves puzzles. kanbesmarkets.org

30 years serving our community

(636)-244-2378 From silverware to walk in coolers and everything in between.

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City of Festus F

Winterfest interfest Saturday, December 4th, 2021 400 W Main St and 113 Grand Ave.

Ice Skating – Face Painting Visits With Santa – Balloon Twister Fire Performer – Carriage Rides Petting Zoo – Food And Craft Vendors.

Santa House is Open

Tues, Dec 7, 14, & 21 (6-8pm), Thurs, Dec. 9 & 16 (6-8pm), Fri, Dec. 10 & 17 (6-8pm), and Sat, Dec. 11 & 18 (12-2pm & 3-5pm)

Santa’s Mail Bag Friday December 17

Tune in to the City’s YouTube Channel to watch the video!

cityoffestus.org / nov e mbe r 2 02 1

39

When we started our vegan journey, there was nothing for us to eat. So, our objective with Mattie’s Foods was to continue to tackle issues in our own food journey – we didn’t want to give up this lifestyle, which has been great for our health, but we also didn’t want to give up eating great. We knew there had to be some type of balance where we could have both.

We quickly realized that it wasn’t hard; we took the same approach that you’d take with non-vegan food, but we just found vegan substitutions. If a recipe calls for chicken broth, we use vegetable broth; if it calls for cheese, we use the best version of nondairy cheese.

That’s why everything tastes just like what you’re used to eating.

We’re especially proud of our mac ‘n’ cheese – it’s creamy and gooey, and we spent at least a year trying to perfect that recipe. We get so

Each Thanksgiving, Mattie’s Foods offers Kansas City diners a full, from-scratch vegan menu cooked with love. For owners – and sisters – India Pernell and Arvelisha Woods, it’s just another way of carrying on their family’s tradition of creating community through food.

many stories from customers who are excited to finally find vegan versions of foods they love, whether it’s a cinnamon roll or strawberry shortcake or that mac ‘n’ cheese.

A few years ago, we hosted our very first vegan Thanksgiving, and it was phenomenal. We cooked everything; we told everyone in our family not to bring anything because we wanted to introduce those vegan recipes to them. We do more of a soul food Thanksgiving in our family, and nothing was missing from our spread. We had greens, mac ‘n’ cheese, dressing, yams, black-eyed peas, gravy, sweet potato pie and even a “turkey.” A lot of these things are dishes we’ve had other places and wanted to veganize – just because we’re vegan doesn’t mean we don’t miss that sweet potato pie.

Initially, some of the family was skeptical, not believing that a vegan Thanksgiving could taste good. But when they showed up, their response was incredible – they kept looking at us like, “Ain’t no way this is vegan.” Everybody was coming back for seconds. They just couldn’t believe they could be that full, eat food that rich and not feel like they were going to pass out.

Our grandmother, Mattie, is the namesake of our restaurant, and before she passed, she always had people at her house, feeding them for the holidays. Being able to provide a meal was everything for her. She might not have had a lot of money to spend, but she would make sure that you were well-fed, and she would put her heart and soul, all the love that she had, into making sure that when you eat, you’re smiling.

We try to carry on that tradition at Mattie’s with our vegan Thanksgiving. When the pandemic hit, we could only imagine how things were – you’re lonely because you’re isolated, and you’re hungry.

We wanted to be able to step in and provide a great meal so that our customers didn’t feel alone on Thanksgiving. Food is comforting. Food makes you smile. Food brings out so many emotions. We get those responses, especially from the African American community, a lot. They’ll say, “I thought I wouldn’t be able to eat as good because I chose a healthier holiday meal,” and when they come in, they say, “Oh my god, that sweet potato pie tastes just like my grandmother’s.”

We just smile because that is our heart; we really go the extra mile.

To be able to offer that experience…to us, it means the world.

633 E. 63rd St., Kansas City, Missouri, mattiesfoods.com

%PG

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 1

Brussels Sprouts serves 4 1½

½ ½

1

lbs Brussels sprouts, washed and cut in half extra-virgin olive oil or grapeseed oil tsp salt tsp freshly ground black pepper palmful cashews, roughly chopped Thai peanut sauce

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 375°F. Spread Brussels sprouts on a nonstick pan; drizzle with oil and season with salt and pepper. Add cashews; drizzle with Thai peanut sauce. Bake, 30 minutes or until soft.

This is our mom’s recipe for cornbread dressing, which goes all the way back to our grandmother, Mattie. It’s traditionally made with meat, including turkey giblets, but we veganize it. The cornbread itself is a secret family recipe, but you can buy prepared vegan cornbread at local grocery stores, or make your own by using an egg substitute.

Cornbread Dressing serves 8 ½ pan cooked vegan cornbread, crumbled into bite-size chunks

3 tsp celery flakes 1½ tsp onion powder, plus more for seasoning 1½ tsp garlic powder, plus more for seasoning 1½ tsp freshly ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning

1 tsp ground sage ¾ tsp salt, plus more for seasoning

2 sticks vegan butter, such as Earth Balance, divided

1 medium onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

6 celery stalks, diced

1 14-oz can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1 16-oz bag organic baby carrots, diced

2 cups organic vegetable broth

3 Tbsp plant-based egg substitute, such as Just Egg / preparation / Preheat oven to 350°F. In a medium bowl, combine cornbread crumbles, celery flakes, onion powder, garlic powder, pepper, sage and salt; set aside.

In a medium sauté pan set over medium heat, add 1½ sticks butter, onion, garlic, celery, chickpeas and carrots; season with approximately ½ teaspoon each of onion powder, garlic powder, pepper and salt.

Sauté until onion is translucent, 6 to 7 minutes. Combine vegetable mixture with cornbread mixture. Add broth and egg; gently mix to combine. Using a spatula, transfer mixture to an 8-by-8-inch baking dish. Melt remaining ½ stick butter; drizzle over top of cornbread.

Bake, 40 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Slice and serve. / nov e mbe r 2 02 1

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Our mom makes trifles all the time, so we put our own spin on the classic dessert by making it vegan. It’s light, simple and works with whatever berries you have on hand – we think it’s one of the easiest desserts to make.

Since many brands of instant pudding and wafer cookies are “accidentally vegan,” making it vegan is just as easy – but be sure to double-check the ingredients lists.

Mixed Berry Trifle serves 10

2 64

2 2

bags vegan vanilla cookies oz fresh or frozen mixed berries boxes vegan vanilla or chocolate instant pudding, prepared 8-oz containers vegan whipped cream, such as So Delicious

/ preparation / Spread ¹⁄₃ of the vanilla cookies on the bottom of a medium bowl or serving dish. Layer ¹⁄₃ of the berries on top, barely covering the cookies; top with ¹⁄₃ of the prepared pudding and then ¹⁄₃ of the whipped cream. Repeat layering until the bowl is filled. Garnish with extra cookie crumbles and a few berries. Place in refrigerator to chill, at least 2 hours, allowing flavors to blend.

Serve chilled.

This recipe was inspired by the sweet potato casserole at Ruth’s Chris Steak House – once we tasted it, we knew we had to recreate that flavor. It’s one of those dishes you can serve as a side or dessert because the marshmallows kick the sweetness up a notch.

Sweet Potato Casserole with Oatmeal Streusel serves 8 Oatmeal Streusel ½ cup rolled oats 4 Tbsp dark brown sugar 2 Tbsp all-purpose flour ¼ tsp ground cinnamon 4 Tbsp vegan butter, cold

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 1

Sweet Potato Casserole vegetable oil 6 medium sweet potatoes, rinsed ¾ cup dark brown sugar ½ cup vegan heavy cream ¼ cup vegan butter, melted 1 tsp vanilla ¼ tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp allspice ¼ tsp salt 2 Tbsp plant-based egg substitute oatmeal streusel (recipe follows) 2 cups vegan marshmallows, such as Dandies / preparation – oatmeal streusel / Add rolled oats to the bowl of a food processor or blender; pulse until they resemble a fine flour.

In a small bowl, combine oat flour, brown sugar, all-purpose flour and cinnamon. Using a pastry knife or fork, cut butter into dry ingredients until a crumbly mixture with a few pea-size bits of butter forms.

/ preparation – sweet potato casserole / Preheat oven to 400°F. Rub vegetable oil on the skin of each sweet potato and set on a baking sheet; bake, 60 to 70 minutes or until tender. Remove from oven and reduce oven temperature to 350°F. When potatoes are cool enough to handle, cut in half lengthwise and scrape flesh into a bowl.

Using an electric mixer, beat potatoes on high speed until mashed and smooth.

In a large bowl, combine 6 cups mashed sweet potato, brown sugar, heavy cream, butter, vanilla, cinnamon, allspice, salt and egg; beat until combined. Using a spatula, transfer mixture to an 8-by-8inch baking dish. Sprinkle oatmeal streusel over sweet potato mixture; bake, 70 to 80 minutes or until the top begins to brown slightly. Remove casserole from oven and immediately spread marshmallows over top; let sit, approximately 10 minutes or until marshmallows have melted.

Congr@�@ions ­

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 0

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