November 2014 Feast Magazine

anchored in st. louis

baked in columbia, missouri

mixed in kansas city

PEACEMAKER

PEGGY JEAN’S PIES

WOOD + SALT

Inspired Local food Culture | Midwest

ALL IN fAvor, fA f Avor, A vor, s sAy Ay A yp pIe! Ie!

feastmagazine.com | NoveMBer 2014

Pairs well with

C AT C H I N G U P

Friends gather and the room fills with laughter. Nothing fits these moments better than a bottle of Chambourcin. After all, inside each bottle is a story, written by Missouri winemakers for anyone with a little Missouri in their hearts.

Learn more about Chambourcin and other varietals at missouriwine.org.

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Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

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FEATURES WellseasoNeD

Inspired Local Food Culture | Midwest

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NOVEMBER 2014 from the staff |6|

Meet OUr CONtrIBUtOrS

|8|

frOM the PUBLISher

| 25 |

Emjoy a taste of the tropics this fall with Matt Seiter’s recipe for The Winter Daiquiri, and sip on classic Southern cocktails in St. Louis and Kansas City. We also visit a winery in Waverly, Missouri, and learn about the spirits being made at a new distillery in Columbia, Missouri.

Giving thanks.

|9|

dIgItaL CONteNt

What’s online this month.

| 10 |

feaSt tv

A peek at the November episode.

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| 35 |

DINe This month we visit restaurants in St. Louis, Kansas City, Joplin and Cottleville, Missouri, and talk shop with a butcher and chef in St. Louis and a pastry chef in Kansas City. In our monthly travel piece, Road Trip, writer Ettie Berneking travels to Branson, Missouri, and shares where to dine, drink and stay during the city’s annual two-month holiday celebration. We also highlight two must-try dishes – a packed patty melt in Kansas City and donuts with personality in St. Louis.

DrINK

shoP This month we visit two regional shops – one a longtime favorite in Chesterfield, Missouri, on the eve of its fifth anniversary in its new space, and the other a new spice and seasoning store in Kansas City. Also, find out what inspired the interior design at Whitebox Eatery in Clayton, Missouri, and why we’re heading to Branson West, Missouri, for must-have wine glasses and other specialty glassware.

| 41 |

cooK

Boost the starters, sides and sweets at your holiday table with six recipes that use regionally produced products, from jalapeño bacon made in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, to farm-fresh cheese produced in Weston, Missouri.

| 42 | Seed tO taBLe farmer Crystal Stevens highlights butternut squash with an autumnal harvest bake.

| 44 | MyStery ShOPPer Buy it and try it: burdock root.

| 46 | MeNU OPtIONS

65

Learn how to make hearty, party-perfect ham and mushroom arancini at home this holiday season.

| 48 | Sweet IdeaS Pastry chef Christy Augustin shares how to make rich pumpkin roulade with brown butter glaze.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Of CHERRY PIE fROM PEGGY JEAN’S PIES (P. 90) BY Aaron Ottis.

ALL OTHER COVER PHOTOGRAPHY VIA ISTOCK (CREDITS ON P. 96).

a Dash of ImagINatIoN Learn the art of making small batch spice blends, brines, rubs, infused sugars, finishing salts and more with the brother-sister team behind Wood + Salt in Kansas City.

PIece by Peace

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Writer Seán Collins profiles St. Louis chef Kevin Nashan’s career, from working in his grandparents’ New Mexico eatery to helming Sidney Street Cafe and Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. in Benton Park.

TABLE Of CONTENTS PHOTO Of BuTTERNuT SquASH BAKE (P. 42) BY Jennifer Silverberg.

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PraIrIe to Plate farmer Girl Meats connects pasture-raised, grass-fed beef, pork, poultry and lamb from small farms in Kansas and Missouri with home cooks across the region.

secoND helPINgs

90

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Peggy Jean’s Pies returns to Columbia, Missouri, after a 10-year hiatus, thanks to the mother-daughter team of Jeanne Plumley and Rebecca Miller, who serve made-fromscratch pies five days a week.

Funeral of a Friend It is with great sorrow That we inform you of the death of the Elijah Craig Bourbon exclusive barrel selection program.

We have reserved only a few final bottles.

They are the last of four exclusively selected barrels - each one unique.

Come lay these bottles to rest in style & celebrate their life, at their “Memorial” dinner - “Funeral of a Friend”.

Rare Whiskey Dinner with

Funeral PYRE! ITED! IMIT LIM S LI E IS ACE PAC PA SP

THE RAREST WHISKEY TASTING

It’s your last chance! - Wednesday, December 10, 2014

in the Conservatory at Sanctuaria, 4198 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, MO 63110

RESERVE NOW - SanctuariaSTL.com/Funeral-of-a-Friend

WE ARE NOW BOOKING

HOLIDAY PARTIES!

We would love to host you in one of our awesome event spaces!

Diablitos Cantina

Conservatory at Sanctuaria

Hendricks BBQ Private Loft

Moonshine Blues Bar

Café Ventana Annex

Sanctuaria Wild Tapas

Contact Katy, our Events Manager for details today!

email: events@ingoodcompanystl.com or call: 314.630.0559 Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

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Magazine Volume 5

| Issue 11 | November 2014

Food, Wine and Tropical Sunshine – One delicious combination!

EDITORIAL Publisher Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

Lovers of great food, fine wine and tropical sunshine can take pleasure in it all at the fourth annual Cancun and Rivera Maya Food & Wine Festival. Over this four day event, from March 12-15, 2015, enjoy the unbeatable combination of gourmet cuisine, fine wines, palm trees and live music in a setting of unrivaled beauty. Many of the world’s best chefs will be on hand to give cooking demonstrations, while distinguished sommeliers will offer domestic and international wine tastings. Enjoy gastronomic tours of the best restaurants in the area and many activities including the popular Chef’s Cook-off and Gala Dinners, where guests have the opportunity to dine alongside the festival's star chefs.

Senior Editor Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com

Apple Vacations makes getting to this tropical paradise easy and affordable with exclusive non-stop vacation flights from St. Louis, and the widest variety of accommodations throughout Riviera Maya.

For airfare and hotel accomodations visit applevacations.com.

For festival tickets visit crmfest.com.

Assistant Editor Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com Assistant Digital Editor Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor Jenny Vergara Editorial Assistant Matt Duchesne Proofreader Christine Wilmes Contributing Writers Christy Augustin, Jonathan Bender, Ettie Berneking, Seán Collins, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, Kyle Harsha, Valeria Turturro Klamm, Ryan Sciara, Matt Seiter, Ragh Singh, Matt Sorrell, Crystal Stevens, Michael Sweeney, Shannon Weber ART Art Director Lisa Allen, art@feastmagazine.com Assistant Art Director Alexandrea Doyle, adoyle@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers Brad Austin, Jonathan Gayman, Aaron Lindberg, Emily Suzanne McDonald, Mark Neuenschwander, Aaron Ottis, Jennifer Silverberg, Landon Vonderschmidt, Cheryl Waller FEAST TV

producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Forever An Astronaut

Judd Demaline, Cameron Hill, Alessio Summerfield SALES InquIRIES Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com COnTACT uS Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor, St. Louis, MO 63101 314.340.8562, feastmagazine.com DISTRIbuTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Jeff Moore at jmoore@stldist.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2014 by Feast Magazine™.

All rights reserved.

■ ■ ■

Exclusive non-stop vacation flights from St. Louis World’s #1 Vacation Company to Mexico Apple Vacations Representatives in resort

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

Scan QR code to experience CANCUN

Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC

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ContrIbutors

11.14

matt sorrell St. Louis, Writer Matt began his freelance writing career in the late ‘90s as a stringer for community papers, covering local government and school board meetings. He segued into writing about the St. Louis food scene in the early 2000s. Since then, Matt’s written for St. Louis Magazine, Ladue News, Alive, USA Today, Draft Magazine, Curve and, of course, Feast. Matt currently tends bar at Planter’s House in Lafayette Square and works with his wife, Beth, at their company, Cocktails Are Go!, which caters small cocktail events and promotes libation education.

jonathan bender

Hand Crafted Coffees Importing Fine Coffees from 20 Countries • QUALITY • EXPERIENCE • SERVICE

Kansas City, Writer Jonathan Bender is the founder of The Recommended Daily. He is the author of LEGO: A Love Story and the winner of the Greater Kansas City Restaurant Association’s 2012 Media Person of the Year. He lives in Kansas City, Missouri, where he has judged the American Royal World Series of BBQ, eaten sandwiches for a month and pitched grain as a brewer’s assistant – all in pursuit of learning more about what Kansas Citians eat and drink. You can find him wherever there’s a proper toddy coffee or fried egg sandwich.

aaron ottis Columbia, Missouri, Photographer Aaron Ottis resides in Columbia, Missouri, with his wife, Erica, and son.

Though raised in southern Illinois, he remains an avid Cubs fan living in enemy territory. He prefers to spend his free time hovering around a smoker, babying a rack of ribs.

jennifer silverberg St. Louis, Photographer Making photographs is something Jennifer has been doing since she was a young girl. Her passion for art, food, sustainability and responsible land use came much later. About five years ago she figured out how to bring those interests together in the world of food photography. Whether she’s in the finest restaurants, the corner butcher shop or the vast fields of the farm, Jennifer finds beautiful connections to food, the people who bring it to us and the animals that nourish us. Her food, portrait and lifestyle work can be seen in publications and advertisements around the world. You can follow her adventures and enjoy some general silliness on Instagram at @jennsilverberg.

Full Service Coffeehouse & Restaurant Supplier Fourth Generation Family Owned Coffee Roasters Since 1930

WWW.CHAUVINCOFFEE.COM

314-772-0700

UNIQUE GIFT IDEAS FOR EVERYONE ON YOUR LIST

shannon weber St. Louis, Writer Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog, A Periodic Table (aperiodictableblog.com), and her work has been featured on websites such as Bon Appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes that the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things in both the kitchen and in life. With a lifelong love of food and a bachelor’s degree in English literature, it was only a matter of time before she ventured into recipe development and writing. She has been known to read through cookbooks like memoirs, plan trips around restaurants and to spend far too much time thinking about food. Outside of the kitchen, you can find her wandering through the local library, taking in an independent film (solo, no talking) or hanging out at the playground with her daughter.

Skip the mall and get the perfect gift this holiday season—from class gift certificates and our beautiful calendar to tickets to the popular Garden Glow and next year’s all new Lantern Festival!

4344 Shaw Blvd. • St. Louis, MO 63110 ( 3 1 4 ) 5 7 7- 5 1 0 0 • w w w . m o b o t . org

Inspired Local Food Culture

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publisher’s letter

last month, on the very same day that we launched feast in kansas city, we were honored with our second midamerica emmy award for feast tv in the magazine program category.

In September, Feast TV won its second Emmy at the Mid-America Emmy Awards. Alessio Summerfield of Forever An Astronaut, our Feast TV production partner, joined us for the ceremony and to celebrate the win.

FeAst eVeNts Funeral of a Friend rare Whiskey tasting Sat., Nov. 1 and Wed., Dec. 10, 6 to 9pm; Sanctuaria, $125 per person, reservations required, sanctuariastl.com

Toast farewell to Heaven Hill Distillery’s exclusive Elijah Craig Bourbon barrels of whiskey at St. Louis’ Sanctuaria with a “wake” and threecourse dinner. After passed hors d’oeuvres and a memorial libation, feast on a dinner with three tastings of raw bourbon, three cocktails made with the bourbon and a seminar detailing the Life of a Barrel led by mixologist Matt Seiter.

ballpark Village brewfest Sat., Nov. 8, 1 to 5pm; Ballpark Village, pricing varies, stlballparkvillage.com

Celebrate all things beer with the area’s finest home brewers and Anheuser-Busch master brewers. The beer celebration features local home brews, live music, food and beer pairings, street performances and St. Louis beer history.

Four episodes were nominated this year, and the winning episode was August 2013, in which we profiled four of St. Louis’ most impactful culinarians: Gerard Craft, Mike Emerson, Kevin Nashan and Qui Tran. It was an incredible honor to receive this level of recognition from our television peers, and I want to give a huge shoutout to Hannah Radcliff and Edward Calvey, our production partners for that episode. I am thankful to work with such talented folks, not just on the production of the show, but all of the writers, photographers, editors and designers who make Feast happen every single month. The production of this magazine is a team effort, and I am grateful to work with such a talented group of professionals.

Art:314

This is the time of year when we all give thanks for what we are grateful for in our lives. For me, it’s my family, my incredible colleagues at Feast and also for the bounty of the Midwest, which I am able to explore each month as we produce our content. This issue is overflowing with stories that celebrate the season and introduce you to people who work each day to make this a delicious place to live. There is so much to taste, to see, to do in our region that you can’t possibly experience it all. I think writer Shannon Weber summed it up best in her feature, Well-Seasoned (p. 52), when she wrote: “The crackle of leaves, the promise of snow, the riot of fall produce and handcrafted goods is what the Midwest does best. The scene plays out over and over on television and in movies: We chuckle and pretend it happens everywhere, but we know better; we are the lucky ones.”

schnucks Cooks ham and Mushroom Arancini

Fri., Nov. 14, 8pm, Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis, $35 in advance or $45 at the door, camstl.org

Dance and enjoy an open bar at Art:314, a silent auction and party benefiting the Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis’ Open Studios STL program and Front Room exhibition series. The silent auction features a diverse group of more than 25 local artists. Participating artists receive 50 percent of all proceeds from their work, which makes the event a great way to add to or start your own collection while supporting the St. Louis art community.

Wed., Nov. 19, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, $40, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Join us in the kitchen and learn how to make ham and mushroom arancini. In this month’s class you’ll learn how to make rice balls that don’t fall apart and how to properly stuff them to make arancini.

You will also learn how to clean mushrooms and sear them to achieve ideal texture and flavor.

the st. louis Food & Wine experience Fri., Jan. 23 to Sun., Jan. 25, The Repertory Theatre of St. Louis, pricing varies, repstl.org/events

Excite your taste buds and discover new flavors

We are, indeed, the lucky ones, and I wish you and yours a wonderful season of

with friends at the largest international food

thanksgiving.

and wine festival in the Midwest. Look forward to a fine wine VIP reserve room, tasty new food vendors and more than 700 wines to sample, all to

Until next time,

benefit The Repertory Theatre of St. Louis.

Cat’s picks Wednesdays, 8:35am , The BIG 550 KTRS

Tune in as Feast publisher Catherine Neville chats with host McGraw Milhaven and gives her weekly picks for the best places to eat and drink.

Catherine Neville publisher@feastmagazine.com

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@cat_neville

@cat_neville

DIGITAL CONTENT

hungry for more?

feastmagazine.com

connect with us daily:

onLInE ExTRA In this month’s WellSeasoned cooking feature (p. 52), writer Shannon Weber shares six recipes for starters, sides and sweets made with six regional products. Find this extra recipe – Nettle Ice Cream with RosemaryCaramel Popcorn made with Green Dirt Farm’s Farm Fresh Nettle Cheese – by visiting feastmagazine.com.

FACEbook. Check out behind-the-scenes photos

from our recent Feast TV shoots (like Farmer Girl Meats in rural Kansas) at facebook.com/feastmag.

TWITTER. Follow @feastmag to stay up-to-date

with news from the Feast team, like Feast TV’s win at the 38th Annual Mid-America Emmy Awards.

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg PHOTOGRAPHy by Chris Brumby

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg

PInTEREST. Find festive holiday recipes (like twicebaked delicata squash with spiced nuts) on our Art of Thanksgiving board at pinterest.com/feastmag.

ToP REAdS on THE FEEd: Visit our constantly updated news feed at feastmagazine.com/the-feed for the latest on the

region’s culinary scene. Last month, highlights included talking to Goshen Coffee Co. in Edwardsville, Illinois, about placing third in America’s best Espresso Competition at Coffee Fest, catching up with the owners of Smallbatch KC in Kansas City and a sneak peek of newly opened Insomnia Cookies in St. Louis.

InSTAGRAm. Hashtag your local food and drink photos with #Feastgram for a chance to see them in Feast! Details on p. 98.

Watch our videos and Feast TV. SPECIAL GIVEAWAY: Win two VIP tickets to The 13th Annual St. Louis Food & Wine Experience on Sun., Jan. 25. Head to the

youtube.com/FeastMagazine

Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for all the details.

Inspired Local Food Culture

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FEAST TV

TV

Look for the Feast TV splat throughout the magazine. It tells you which articles are part of this month’s episode!

In the November episode of Feast tV, publisher Catherine Neville demos how to make party-perfect ham and mushroom arancini. Turn to p. 46 for the recipe in this month’s Menu Options.

watch this month’s episode to:

Segment 1: Venture to rural Kansas to learn how Farmer Girl Meats is connecting small farmers with home cooks across the Midwest.

Segment 2: Take a bite of handmade pie and meet the mother-daughter team behind Peggy Jean’s Pies in Columbia, Missouri.

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg

Segment 3: Find out how Wood + Salt is shaking up unexpected flavors in Kansas City, and learn what inspires its artisan seasonings.

Segment 4: Spend a night on the line with chef Kevin Nashan at both of his restaurants, Sidney Street Cafe and Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors: Missouri Wines In November, reach for a bottle of Les bourgeois Vineyards’ 2012 Chambourcin.

Feast TV producer Catherine Neville pairs it with a ham and mushroom arancini recipe by Schnucks Cooks Cooking School’s Gabrielle DeMichele.

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Whole Foods Market Get cooking at home! Pick up the ingredients and recipe from Catherine Neville’s Feast TV demo at Whole Foods Market locations in the St. Louis and Kansas City areas.

WATCH FEAST ON THESE NETWORKS

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to see Feast TV on Sat., Nov. 1 at 2pm and Mon., Nov. 3 at 1pm. Feast TV will also air throughout the month on nineCREATE.

INDULGE IN CITY LIVING

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) on Sat., Nov. 15 at 2:30pm.

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) at 8:30pm on Thu., Nov. 27.

At 1904 Steak House, an appetite for the best is always welcome. Come savor a selection of prime, dry-aged steak and delicious seafood dishes.

Proudly featuring our Miso Roasted Chilean Sea Bass Baby bok choy, soy, and house miso For reservations, call 888.578.7289 or visit rivercity.com.

Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU and WUSI at 10am on the first four Saturdays in November (Nov. 1, 8, 15 and 22).

888.578.7289 | rivercity.com Š2014 Pinnacle Entertainment, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Inspired Local Food Culture

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INTRODUCING New “Cow Town Casual” lunch & dinner menus

The Only Place in Kansas City Creating Hand-Bottled Cocktails The Only Place in Kansas City Serving Dom Perignon by the Glass

5 Happy Hour Food Items for $4 (Mon – Fri, 4 – 6:30 p.m.)

BONUS FREE Valet Parking for Guests FREE Wi-Fi

View the full menus and all of the news at www.providence-kc.com 1329 Baltimore in the Hilton President Hotel | Kansas City, MO 64105 (816) 303-1686 or www.providence-kc.com “Like” us on Facebook at facebook.com/ProvidenceKitch and follow on Twitter at @ProvidenceKitch.

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where we’re dining

bite into this juicy burger on p. 16

Landon Vonderschmidt

where we’re dining kansas city

brunch at voltaire written by

Pete dulin

PHOtOGrAPHy by

revive your spirits and fill your belly at Voltaire’s new Sunday brunch, offered from 11am to 3pm each week. Chef wes Gartner prepares classic and worldly brunch fare with a spin: old-school malted waffles, herb-asiago biscuits with housemade sausage gravy or mushroom-cream gravy and timili’s French toast made with brandied batter are just a few highlights. Unexpected items dot the menu, too. Korean ramen soothes the soul with crispy beef short ribs, shiitake mushrooms, house kimchi and a panko-fried soft-boiled egg. ramen’s great for curing hangovers, as is the pozole rojo con huevo – braised pork, hominy and chiles served with a fried egg. From fried chicken to vegetable panini, Gartner balances comfort food with innovative dishes. this urban saloon’s cocktail menu goes beyond bellinis, mimosas and bloody Marys. Citrusy el Chilango uses Aperol and mezcal syrup. bourbon-based whisker Licker combines Curaçao, lemon and wheat beer with an egg white. Or, whet your whistle with fresh-squeezed juice, craft beer, wine or local Hugo tea Co.’s organic tea. According to Gartner, “brunch allows us to reach clientele that wouldn’t usually make it to Voltaire for dinner, but now that they have sampled brunch, they are coming back during the week.”

Voltaire, 1617 Genessee St., West Bottoms, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.472.1200, voltairekc.com

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NOVEMBER 2014

ONE ON ONE ladue, mo.

Jonathan Gayman PHOTOGRAPHy by

brandon benack executive chef, butchery written by Bethany Christo

At Butchery in Ladue, just having locally sourced beef, poultry, pork and charcuterie available, as well as seafood and artisan accoutrements, isn’t enough – here, executive chef brandon benack is bringing butchery back. the full-service butcher shop opened in September next door to truffles, with three knowledgeable chefs behind its counter. the shop is reminiscent of the days when your local butcher knew your name, your cut and your tastes. benack, chef de cuisine Andrew Jennrich and executive sous chef ryan McDonald are most excited about the custom-made dry-aging room lined with pink Himalayan salt that achieves butchery’s signature flavor. in addition to meat, butchery has a small sandwich shop and a retail section with bottles of truffles’ sauces and spice blends, jams, jellies, pickled items and 24 wines selected specifically by truffles’ general manager Aleks Jovanovic to complement butchery’s fare.

What inspired Butchery? i just felt it was really something that was missing and needed, and especially something done at the level that i was accustomed to as a kid growing up: i have a couple lines of uncles who were highly regarded butchers in upstate new york. i remember having a conversation with the guy behind the counter who would give you pointers of how to cook your meat, ask if you’ve tried this yet and take away the fear of trying something different. Truffles has a history with butchering and aging meat. How has that evolved with Butchery? when i first got [to truffles in] April 2012, i started the dry-age program. we got such a great response that we wanted to make it a focal point for a butcher shop, and to do it to the best level. the cooler’s basically taking the aging we were doing and putting it on steroids. the walls [being] lined with pink Himalayan salt blocks really change its dimension: the salt purifies the air in the cooler and, over the course of time, will also develop its own flavor and season the meat. How will Butchery and Truffles collaborate? the butcher shop is an extension of the restaurant. whatever’s on the menu currently at the restaurant will be available next door. Say you love our truffles burger – at butchery, you will be able to buy the patty we use, buy the spices we season it with, buy the bacon, buy the cheese and buy the bun right there to recreate it in your own kitchen. Once we get our bearings, we’re going to have a few grab-and-go, pop-in-the-oven meals sold specifically out of butchery. but at the same time, things at the butcher shop can be offered at the restaurant. we literally are connected through the kitchens.

What has Andrew Jennrich, formerly of Farmhaus, brought to Butchery?

Andrew brings such a passion and precision to the charcuterie program. He’s of the new generation who is developing the art of butchery.

He told me upfront, “i’d like to have my own butcher shop in five years,” and i’m like, “Let’s use this as a way to see what it’s all about.” the guy’s immensely talented, and i’ve learned a lot from him. the proof is in the pudding: when you walk into this place, whatever you pick out from that counter is absolutely phenomenal because of the time and testing that’s gone into it.

Butchery, 9202 Clayton Road, Ladue, Missouri, 314.567.7258, todayattruffles.com

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Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

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joplin, mo.

PHOtOGrAPHy by Mark

neuenschwander

where we’re dining

the eagle drive-in

written by ettie

Berneking

when it comes to raising greasy diner grub to the level of haute cuisine, few do so better than Jason Miller at The Eagle Drive-In in Joplin, Missouri. Standing outside of this small old-school drive-in, you wouldn’t think it anything special, but inside, the menu is sure to impress. instead of floppy griddle burgers, Miller dishes out calamari, boulevard brewing Co. wheat beer mussels, a rich oven-roasted bone marrow dish and a lineup of burgers made from elk, lamb, oysters and even alligator. Since opening the restaurant in 2011 with wife Suzanne, Miller has connected his art school background with his love of food and has garnered a dedicated group

Must-try dish

st. louis

strange donuts in just over a year, Strange Donuts has opened two storefronts in St. Louis and announced plans to open a third location in Columbia, Missouri, by the end of 2014. the Columbia shop will be a partnership between Strange Donuts and St. Louis’ Seoul taco, located in the historic Hall theatre in the heart of downtown Columbia.

Strange Donuts co-owner Corey Smale says customers can expect the same signature classics, new creations and collaborationinspired “strangers” sold at the St. Louis stores. in October, Strange Donuts also announced plans to open a third location in St. Louis called Strange trap Kitchen inside of brennan’s wine, tobacco and Food in the Central west end.

Strange Donuts, 2709 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, Missouri, 314.932.5851 and 107½ E. Argonne Drive, Kirkwood, Missouri, facebook.com/ strangedonuts PHOtOGrAPHy by Cheryl waller

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feastmagazine.com

NOVEMBER 2014

written by Liz

Miller

of fans that regularly fill the eagle’s limited booth seating. Despite the casual, playful eats on offer, you won’t find plastic plates and paper napkins here – it’s china and cloth napkins all the way. And with a menu that’s more hit than zip, don’t expect a rush order; you’ll probably be here for a while, but everything on this menu is worth the wait.

The Eagle Drive-In, 4224 S. Main St., Joplin, Missouri, 417.623.2228

kansas city ONE ON ONE

jon watkins executive chef, baked in kansas city written by

Barrington Hotel & Suites

Pete Dulin

Baked in Kansas City occupies the former napoleon bakery, a beloved westport destination for pastries.

Frank Sebree, owner of the Majestic restaurant, and his wife were devoted fans of napoleon bakery. they lamented the area’s lack of quality bread and baked goods and the Majestic needed a highvolume supplier of such, so Sebree leased and renovated the space. the artisan bakery reflects Sebree’s love of patisseries encountered during time spent in France, but also includes expanded bistro dining. Sebree hired executive chef Jon watkins in mid-2014 to take the bistro to the next level.

• Handicap Accessible Rooms (some with Roll-in Showers) • Secured Indoor Hallways & 2 Elevators • Complimentary Wireless Internet • All Non-Smoking Rooms

417-334-8866 or 800-760-8866 Fax: 417-336-2585 • www.barringtonhotel.com 263 Shepherd of the Hills Exp., Branson, MO 65616

Funeral of a Friend It is with great sorrow That we inform you of the death of the Elijah Craig bourbon barrel hand-selection program.

These unique bottles are the last of exclusive barrels & we invite you to their “funeral” -

THE RAREST

WHISKEY TASTING

Austin

Baked in Kansas City, 706 Westport Road, Westport, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.561.2253, bakedinkansascity.com

• Easy Access to Shows, Shopping & Attractions • 145 Spacious Double Queen Rooms, including Jacuzzi Suites • Complimentary Deluxe Breakfast • Indoor Pool, Fitness Room & Guest Computer • Meeting & Banquet Room

photography by Brad

Tell us about your culinary background. i started cooking while in college and worked at 75th Street brewery [in Kansas City]. the chef liked me, taught me about techniques, ingredients and menu building. Later, i worked with chef brad rishmany and chef Matt woods at Mestizo as a line cook for two years, where i learned how to use fresh ingredients with good execution. i began researching food and watching videos of David Chang and thomas Keller. i opened 801 Fish and learned about fresh fish and fine dining. then my seafood vendor told me about baked in Kansas City. How did you approach the concept of a French-influenced bistro? Frank wanted a straight bistro with dishes like coq au vin and steak au poivre, poivre but i also try to take the familiar and present it in a new way. One of my appetizers is a pork belly-espresso persillade. i use espresso grounds and breadcrumbs for a persillade crust that has tons of flavor and adds a textural element. i want to develop our brunch and unleash my creativity. when you cook, you have to be yourself and cook with flavors you love. How do you coax flavor out of ingredients? i use fresh herbs to elevate dishes. i do an oil-poached halibut and infuse the oil with dill or basil. it’s the little intricacies that make the job fun. when i develop a recipe, i ask, “How can i add more flavor and strike a balance?” this summer, i pickled 30 pounds of tomatoes, wax beans and onions in a light brine. the produce came from broadmoor bistro’s garden. you can barely taste the brine. i’ll use the tomatoes to y make a winter salad that tastes like summer. What ingredient do you look forward to cooking with in the fall and winter? Pumpkin. i’m working on a green lentil-pumpkin dish, pumpkin gnocchi and maybe sweet pumpkin confit. What are your goals as a chef? i’m a no-name chef in a start-up restaurant. the customer reactions are amazing when they come in and try the food. it takes time to build an audience, but i want to push the bistro envelope to include more American-style cuisine as well.

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Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

17

whErE wE’rE Dining

plank road pizza written by

Bethany Christo

in charming Cottleville, Missouri, just a 40-minute drive from Downtown St. Louis, Plank Road Pizza serves classic pies made with originality. Using high-quality, local ingredients, the pizzas at Plank road combine fresh dough, sauce prepared in-house each day and toppings such as seasoned roasted chicken, smoked bacon or slow-roasted pulled pork, and sets them off with a sprinkling of raw elements including sliced avocado, celery or fresh basil. An artful drizzle of ranch, Sriracha or barbecue sauce provides the finishing touch. the pizzas feature familiar toppings like the meatballs on the boones Lick or the buffalo chicken on the St. Charles Street, but have a one-of-a-kind feel with the purposeful and balanced mix of toppings. if you manage to tear your eyes from the tasty pies, look up, all the way up, to the exposed beams of the original structure, which is one of the oldest in Cottleville. the booth seating inside the rusticmeets-modern space is made from the floor of the building’s former attic, and the accent woodwork throughout the dining rooms was made with wood from a local barn.

St. Louis brews including Schlafly beer and selections from 4 Hands brewing Co. are on tap, and tea and coffee are supplied by locally owned thomas Coffee Co. Plank Road Pizza, 5212 Hwy N, Cottleville, Missouri, plankroadpizza.com PHOtOGrAPHy by Emily Suzanne McDonald

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road trIp branson, mo.

written by

PHOtO COurteSy OF Missouri

destination: branson, missouri Ettie Berneking

sleep

Big Cedar Lodge this hillside resort turns the tree-topped branson hills into a truly indulgent escape. there are cascading waterfalls, breathtaking views, scenic hikes, water activities and an assortment of lodging options. turn this weekend getaway into the ultimate retreat by renting one of the private log cabins. you’ll find a Jacuzzi equipped with a light show, a deck with amazing views, wood-burning fireplaces perfect for cozying up and fresh cookies that somehow find their way to your cabin before bed.

612 Devil’s Pool Road, Ridgedale, Missouri, 417.335.2777, big-cedar.com

eat

Dobyns Dining Room at The Keeter Center at College of the Ozarks

there’s a reason this towering hotel is dubbed the “Castle of the Ozarks.” Situated high up on a hill overlooking the clear water of table rock Lake, Chateau on the Lake is as beautiful as it is luxurious. wind down after a long day with a glass of wine at the hotel’s Atrium Café & wine bar or head into its Chateau Grill for a hearty meal. in addition to plush accommodations, Chateau on the Lake also offers spa services including massages, an outdoor roman bath, lake-view yoga classes and salon services such as haircuts, manicures and more.

415 N. State Hwy 265, Branson, Missouri, 417.334.1161, chateauonthelake.com PHOTO COURTESY OF Chateau on the Lake resort & Spa

Still Waters Resort if it’s not an extra dose of quiet time you’re after, check in at this adventure-packed resort where you can motor around the lake on a boat or take out some of that weekday stress on the volleyball court. there are also plenty of picnic areas scattered around the resort, where you can fire up a grill and spend your downtime roasting marshmallows after a long afternoon spent hiking along the many trails or cruising around on one of the resort’s complimentary bikes.

21 Stillwater Trail, Branson, Missouri, 800.777.2320, stillwatersresort.com

local gems

the Sunday brunch at Dobyns Dining room at the Keeter Center is legendary. with a head count that easily eases into the 400s during the fall and winter season, it’s highly recommended that you make your reservation at least one week in advance. the best part about Dobyns is that many of the ingredients are grown or raised on-site at College of the Ozarks, where students run the farms and gardens. According to the college, students have a hand in every part of the dining experience at Dobyns through the school’s on-campus work program.

Vino Cellars at The Lake

Stock up on wine and gourmet meats, cheeses and chocolates at Vino Cellars at the Lake, and then head over to Mary Jane’s Café at the other end of the store for a quick bite as you soak in the great view of the lake and tree-covered hills off in the distance. if you’re planning a trip to branson, be sure to stop here on Friday when the store pops open a few bottles of wine and treats shoppers to complimentary tastings.

1 Opportunity Ave., Point Lookout, Missouri, 417.239.1900, keetercenter.edu

Danna’s Bar-B-Que & Burger Shop For stick-to-your-ribs fare that will leave you ready to cuddle up by a window overlooking table rock Lake, head to Danna’s bar-b-Que & burger Shop. it’s all about down-home country cooking here with some Carolina-style barbecue thrown in. to get a true taste of Danna’s, try your luck at the Garbage burger, which tops a 6-ounce patty with cheese, bacon, lettuce and tomato, covered in Danna’s beloved meaty chili.

Chateau on the Lake

Division of Tourism

branson has been a holiday destination for more than 20 years, thanks to its annual Ozark Mountain Christmas celebration, which kicks off in november. through the end of December, the city is covered in light displays and decorations and offers plenty of holiday festivities and shopping. whether you’re in town to get into the holiday spirit or for relaxation and entertainment, there is a burgeoning food-and-drink scene sure to satisfy your needs. not far from branson’s main drag, you’ll find restaurants dishing out everything from fresh Southern-inspired seafood to farm-to-table fare.

963 State Hwy 165, Branson, Missouri, 417.337.5527, dannasbbq.com

Vasken’s Deli Since opening in 1997, this family-run Mediterranean café has become a staple for true bransonites looking to get a delicious meal far from the tourist-packed strip. Diners will find a lineup of tried-and-true recipes that have been passed down in the Haroutounian family, including a classic gyro; dolmas; beef, brisket or chicken shawarma; and a great variety of baklava. As an added bonus, you can load up on international grocery items such as jams, cookies, coffee and olives.

3200 Gretna Road #100, Branson, Missouri, 417.334.9182, vaskensdeli.com

8 Business Hwy 13, Branson West, Missouri, 417.739.1985, vcellars.com

White River Fish House

Sugar Leaf Bakery & Cafe After a day spent among raging buffalos, murder mysteries and wild west photo shoots, veer off the beaten path and stop in for lunch at Sugar Leaf bakery & Cafe, a favorite local sweets shop. Aside from the amazing cakes, pies, cobblers and cupcakes, Sugar Leaf has one seriously tempting lunch menu packed with award-winning chili and hot panini sandwiches served on housemade bread.

An afternoon spent on the branson Landing means plenty of shopping, great restaurants and bars, and a fountain show that combines water, fire, music and lights. For lunch or dinner, motorboat to white river Fish House, which is actually a floating barge. Load up on napkins and dive fork-first into alligator tail, flash-fried crawfish tails, shrimp or the bayou platter, with fried crawfish tails and your choice of catfish filets or catfish étouffée.

Pro Drive, Branson, Missouri, 417.243.5100, restaurants.basspro.com/whiteriverfishhouse PHOTO COURTESY OF Missouri division of tourism

2800 W. 76 Country Blvd., Branson, Missouri, 417.336.6618, sugarleaftreats.com PHOTO COURTESY OF Sugar Leaf Bakery & Cafe

Level 2 Steakhouse it’s no surprise that the menu at Level 2 Steakhouse is all about steak – that and creating a polished and intimate dining experience. During dinner service, curtains are drawn, candles are lit and the cozy eatery’s red and black color palette gives the dining room a classic, romantic ambience. Popular menu items range from filet mignon and Kansas City strip steak to rib eye, prime rib and wagyu steak. the fresh seafood is also popular, and is delivered multiple times a week. if you have room for dessert, order a piece of the housemade gooey butter cake.

200 E. Main St., Branson, Missouri, 417.243.3433, level2steakhouse.com PHOTO COURTESY OF Level 2 Steakhouse

Top of the Rock

After several years of anticipation, top of the rock is finally open – and you’ll find so much more than a great golf course and stunning views of table rock Lake. An underground cave system with cascading waterfalls, the Ancient Ozarks natural History Museum and a wine cellar that takes you deep into the earth are just a few of the on-site marvels. top of the rock offers guests a genuine glimpse of the natural beauty that resides in the rolling Ozark hills.

150 Top of the Rock Road, Ridgedale, Missouri, 417.339.5305, topoftherock.com

Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

19

where we’re dining kansas city

barrel 31

written by

Jenny Vergara

PHOtOGrAPHy by Landon

Vonderschmidt

the space that formerly played home to Kansas City’s Velvet Dog has now glamorously morphed into Barrel 31, owned by Chris ridler. with a remodel that transformed the space inside and out also came a new bar menu featuring whiskey cocktails, whiskey flights and a dressed-down beer list. Combine that with a menu full of creative comfort foods, and you will find little that disappoints about this new Martini Corner hot spot. Chef Oliver Hedenkamp is holding down the kitchen with starters such as deviled oysters, which plate deviled eggs topped with crispy fried oysters. Other standouts include the shepherd’s pie or the mushroom sloppy joe, with crimini mushrooms and other vegetables bathed in a smoky tomato sauce, topped with crispy onions and horseradish pickles and served on a brioche bun. there is a modern, yet masculine, Old west feel about this place that makes you want to linger. the good news is the prices are very reasonable for the food and ambience that barrel 31 delivers.

Barrel 31, 400 E. 31st St., Union Hill, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.569.3801, barrel31.com

where we’re dining columbia, mo. must-try dish

kansas city

meatloaf patty melt written by

Jenny Vergara

PHOtOGrAPHy by Aaron

Pigwich, the food truck that’s permanently parked in Kansas City’s east bottoms neighborhood, serves up hearty, playful eats seven days a week. this month, get your hands on Pigwich’s meatloaf patty melt, with thick slabs of meatloaf, melted Cheddar cheese, fried onions and mushrooms between two slices of marble rye.

Pigwich, 2618 Guinotte Ave., East Bottoms, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.200.1639, facebook.com/pigwich PHOtOGrAPHy by Aaron Lindberg

Ottis

smokin’ chick’s bbq

written by ragh singh

Smokin’ Chick’s BBQ in Columbia, Missouri, relocated in early August, moving into a larger building on west broadway. For the past 12 years, the beloved barbecue joint operated out of a smaller space on Gary Drive, but as owners Donald ‘Chick’ Orscheln and Lissa Gaw-Orscheln approached the end of the building’s lease, they decided to look for a bigger space to expand their business. the new dining room offers ample booth seating, and, of course, rolls of paper towels dot each table. Although the location has changed, longtime customers will be happy to know that much has stayed the same on the restaurant’s menu, including the famous sandwich the Memphis, piled high with pulled pork and horseradish coleslaw, and the Ultimate Pig Out sandwich, stacked with mounds of pulled pork, ham, Caldarello italian sausage and bacon, served on a kaiser roll. Aside from the restaurant’s hearty selection of sandwiches, popular entrées include half or whole slabs of baby-back ribs and St. Louis-style ribs, as well as rib tips, burnt ends, pulled pork or chicken and more, all prepared with a special dry rub and smoked in-house. Smokin’ Chick’s also now serves beer, including Columbia’s Logboat brewing Co. on tap, and plans to expand its variety of award-winning jerky, which is currently available at Orscheln Farm & Home stores and coming soon to local grocery stores.

Smokin’ Chick’s BBQ, 3301 W. Broadway Business Park Court, Suite A, Columbia, Missouri, 573.256.6450, smokinchicksbbq.com

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feaststL.com %MO %YEAR feastmagazine.com NOVEMBER 2014

M a r s h a l l - F o rd . co M

2014 Ford F150 Supercrew 4x4 XLT

Taste the Italian influence that began at the Crossing and continues at Acero

10,000

$

OFF MSRP* In Stock Only

Complimentary 5 yr/100,000 mile ESP Powertrain Care

with purchase of 2013/2014 F150.

See dealer for details.

Over 170 F150’s to choose from

*Savings include $1500 Ford F150 XLT Special Retail Customer Cash, $1500 Ford Retail Customer Cash, $1000 Ford Credit Bonus Customer Cash (Requires financing through Ford Motor Credit Company for qualified buyers) and $1750 Ford Retail Trade In Assistance Customer Cash (Requires a 1995 or newer trade in). All Ford rebates in lieu of special APR through Ford Motor Credit Company.

www.marshall-ford.com

1075 WEST TERRA LANE, HWY 70 & BRYAN RD. 40/61 (NORTH SERVICE RD.) O’FALLON, MO SERVICE & PARTS HOURS: M-F 7am-6pm • SAT 7am-5pm BODY SHOP HOURS: M-F 8am-5pm

Hwy. K

Marshall Ford 70 Bryan Rd.

636-272-FORD (3673) 636-978-FORD (3673)

Certified Pre-Owned

ACERO

7266 Manchester Rd., Maplewood, MO 314-644-1790 M-Th 5-9pm • Fri/Sat 5-10pm

The CroSSing 7823 Forsyth Blvd, Clayton, Mo 314-721-7375 M-F : 11:30-1:30 and 5- close Sat: 5 - close

Fialafood.com Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

21

where we’re dining st. louis

baiku sushi lounge

written by

Matt Duchesne

BaiKu Sushi Lounge, located inside Hotel ignacio in Midtown, celebrated its grand opening last month. At baiKu, brad beracha, the former owner of Araka and Miso on Meramac, has assembled a tidy menu to ensure each dish is distinct and flavorful. “you’re eating sushi in the lobby of this boutique hotel; it’s very sexy,” beracha says. Dishes on offer include tuna tiradito, lightly seared tuna topped with ponzu, chive oil, tobiko, spooled daikon, shichimi

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NOVEMBER 2014

togarashi and toasted garlic chips. As for the restaurant’s sushi selection, beracha kept the menu to a dozen or so maki rolls and eight specialty rolls, including the Green Dragon made with cucumber, avocado and enoki mushrooms topped with avocado, toasted garlic soy, chive oil, scallions, jalapeños and kaiware sprouts. baiKu also serves noodle dishes on its lunch and dinner menus, and features a sake program designed by Monica Samuels, a well-known

and respected sake professional and the first graduate of the Master of Sake program in the U.S. baiKu sources high-quality fresh fish from Honolulu Fish Co. and two Chicago-based companies, and its ramen noodles are made specifically for the restaurant by St. Louisbased Midwest Pasta Co. BaiKu Sushi Lounge, 3407 Olive St., Midtown, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.896.2500, baikustl.com

Soulard FarmerS market For all your Thanksgiving & Holiday Needs We have everything from om • • • •

Fresh Turkeys Top of the Line Produce Unique Spices Fresh Flowers for your Thanksgiving Day Table

Located at Seventh and Lafayette

314-622-4180

|1|

soulardmarket.com

BREATHE AND DINE SMOKE-FREE

IN

ITALIAN RESTAURANTS Amighetti’s Bakery & Café 3002 WingHaven Blvd

A’mis of St. Charles 3728 Monticello Plaza

Mario’s Pizza Asian Bakeries, Confectionaries Bar & Grill Barbeque Coffee Shops/Cafés Deli, Sandwiches Family Fast Food Frozen Treats Italian Mexican

|2|

Pizza Steakhouse, Seafood

2449 Highway K

Massa’s Bar & Grill 3072 WingHaven Blvd

Rizzo’s Pasta 104 Triad West

8645 Veterans Memorial Pkwy

The Pasta House Co 2558 Highway K

Cecil Whittakers Pizzeria

(636) 561-5202 (636) 272-7474 (636) 272-3499 (636) 978-0060

2968 Highway K

(636) 978-0001

8760 Veterans Memorial Pkwy 3441 Pheasant Meadow Dr

(636) 281-3030 (636) 281-5500

1120 Technology Dr Ste 119

(636) 300-0900

2756 Highway K 9951 WingHaven Blvd 625 N Main St

(636) 281-4667 (636) 625-3001 (636) 272-4667

1090 Tom Ginnever Ave

(636) 379-4447

2438 Highway K 614 N Main St

(636) 980-8636 (636) 281-1340

22 OFallon Sq

(636) 272-7600

3027 Highway K

(636) 379-7272

2917 Highway K 38 OFallon Sq

(636) 281-8685 (636) 272-7234

Domino’s Pizza

JJ Twig’s Pizza & Pub

IN THE

(636) 294-9555

PIZZA RESTAURANTS

Imo’s Pizza

ALL

(636) 329-8787

Stefanina’s Pizzeria & Restaurant

Fox’s Pizza Den

IT’S

(636) 625-6360

Little Caesars Pizza Pantera’s Pizza-O’Fallon

Papa Murphy’s Take ‘N Bake Pizza Pizza Hut

|3| | 1 |The tuna tiradito at BaiKu. | 2 | Deconstructed motorcycle parts hang on a wall in the dining room, intended to symbolize the restaurant’s name, BaiKu, which means motorcycle in Japanese.

| 3 | Green tea ice cream in a sesame-miso cup with black sesame mochi and candied ginger.

Discover more:

www.ofallon.mo.us/business-map Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

23

Fabulous Finds Your Place to

*Aunt Maggie s Family Restaurant 230 N. Main St. • 618-281-7894

Find Wonderful

15% OFF

1 item with coupon before tax.

One coupon per customer.

Offer expires 11/30/14.

Tues, Wed, & Fri 11-4 Thurs 11-6 • saT 10-3 Closed sun & Mon

*Chateau La Vin 119 S. Main St. • 618-281-8117 November 15 at Noon November 22 and 23 December 6 at 5pm Dec 7, 13, 14, & 21 at 1 – 4pm; Dec 18 at 5 – 8pm

Monroe County Welcome Center Scavenger Hunt Holiday Hunt at Local Columbia Retailers Bright Night Christmas Parade on Historic Main Street Visit with Santa at Monroe County Welcome Center

*Joe Boccardi s Ristorante 117 S. Main St.• 618-281-6700

(618) 281-1954 FREE Birthday Dinner

Now Serving Breakfast Fri, Sat, Sun 7am - 10:30am

(with ID)

Menu & Buffet Dining

314-574-1378 www.tooblueboutique.com

10% OFF Total Purchase Offer expires 11/30/14

Hours: Mon. Closed Tues. 10-3 Wed. 4-8 Thurs. Closed Fri. 10-6 Sat. 10-3 Sun. Closed

T

SPECIALTY ITEMS

• Broasted Fried Chicken • German & Hungarian Cuisine • American Dishes • Wine & Beer (on Thursdays and 3rd Sundays)

Full Lunch & Dinner Menu Now Available!!

618-281-7894

230 N. Main Columbia, IL

$8 OFF

Purchase of $35 or More Offer expires 11/30/14

chateaulavin.com Wine Bar Open: Tues.-Thurs.2-9pm, Fri. & Sat. 2-11pm, Sun.2-7pm

119 South Main Street, Columbia, IL 618.281.8117

Authentic Italian Brick Oven!

•Your One Stop Holiday Shop • Unique Christmas/Winter Farm Home Decor Items • Door County Holiday Coffee & Cocoa • Holiday Baskets For Family & Business • Collectible Toy Tractors, Cars & Reproduction Signs Sunday & Monday Closed Tuesday & Wednesday 10am - 4pm Thursday & Friday Noon - 8pm Saturday 10am - 4pm

618-281-2020 608 North Main St. Columbia, IL 62236 www.grillandgrape.com Daily lunch and dinner specials

Black Angus Steaks & Burgers Appetizers • Salads • Sandwiches • Fish Brick Oven Pizzas • Desserts

NOVEMBER 2014

618-710-0200

700 North State St. Freeburg, IL 62243

*Memory Lane Gifts & Floral 515-B N. Main St. • 618-281-4538 *Our Coffee House Café 125 N. Rapp St. • 618-281-4554 *Reifschneider’s Grill & Grape 608 N. Main St. • 618-281-2020 *Roseberry Farms Antiques, Books & Collectibles 603 N. Main St. • 618-520-0850 Tiny’s Pub & Grill 602 N. Main St. • 618-281-9977

www.joeboccardis.com

*See ad for more information

618-281-6700

Our Coffee House & Cafe Serving The Finest Gourmet Coffee

Offering fine jewelry, fashion & gifts Fine Jewelry at Wholesale Prices!

Holiday Registry!

Shop Early!

Layaway Available!!

618.698.0270

115 West Gundlach St. Columbia, IL

• Daily Specials !

• Meats Smoked In-House • Large Outdoor Patio • 11 Flat Screen TVs • 12 Beers on Tap, Imported and Specialty Micro Brews • Extensive Wine List • Kitchen Open Late

Private Parties Available

Magnolia 208 N. Main St. • 618-281-8083

*Too Blue Boutique 212 W. Locust St. • 314-574-1378

ª Member of Asheford Institute Of Antiquesº

front Nestled in the fr ont of tthe he historic “Old Distillery” in downtown Columbia, IL, step into the past and find something for everyone:

*K.A.T. Jewelry Boutique & Gifts 115 W. Gundlach St. • 618-698-0270

117 S. Main St., Columbia, IL 62236

618.520.0850

Great Wines, Specialty Beers, Spirits & Wine Accessories

feastmagazine.com

Lunch & Dinner Menu

Antiques, Books, Collectibles & Home Decór 603 N. Main St., Columbia, IL 62236

Offer Expires 11/30/14

24

Come enjoy Lunch, Dinner or Drinks at our Columbia Location!

HOURS:

15% OFF First Glass of Wine

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

(Lunch & Dinner) Tues. - “Senior Day”: Buy 1 Meal Get 1 Meal 50% OFF w/ purchase of a drink Wed. - Chicken & Dumplings Order your Fri. - Fish holiday pies Sat. (pm) - Prime Rib and desserts Sun. - All Day Buffet now!

Mondays: Closed • Tues - Thurs: 11am - 8pm Fri & Sat: 7am - 9pm • Sunday: 7am - 7pm

e ost t's Livc m Sa i & us ri M s, F r hu

*Fabulous Finds 315 N. Main St. • 618-281-1954 *Imo’s Pizza 1450 Evergreen • 618-281-5552

315 North MaiN Street ColuMbia, il 62236

Look for the “Turquoise Door” at 212 W. Locust St.

Fashion Attic Women’s Consignment Shop 128 S Main St. • 618-281-7467

Homemade • Quiche• Pot Pies • Soups • Chicken Salad • Pies & Desserts • Variety of Hot Panini Sandwiches

FREE

Coffee or Tea

with purchase of breakfast or lunch over $5.00 Offer Expires 11/30/14

Serving: Breakfast & Lunch Daily Dinner Wednesday Evening Hours: Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri 6am-4pm Wed 6am-8pm • Sat 7am-4pm • Sun 8am-2pm

125 Rapp Street Columbia, IL 62236 ourcoffeehousecafe.com 618-281-4554

Memory Lane Gifts

Bee Thankful

12" TWOTOPPING PIZZA

9

$ 95

Must mention coupon when ordering. Only one coupon per purchase. Tax not included. Delivery Additional.

Not good with any other offer.

EXPIRES 11/30/14

1450 Evergreen (Columbia, IL)

&

Floral

• Full Service Florist • Fresh Florals for All Occasions & Holidays • Teleflora Wire Service • Weddings & Receptions • Funeral & Bereavement Items • Stepping Stones & Angels • Custom Silk Design • Delivery Available

618-281-5552

515 N. Main Street, Columbia, IL 62236

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

www.memorylanefloralandgifts.com

CARRY-OUT • DINE-IN • DELIVERY

618-281-4538

where we’re drinking

take a sip of the south on p.30

ONE ON ONE rocheport, mo.

whErE wE’rE driNkiNg kansas city

jonny ver planck distiller, rocheport distilling co.

Written by Valeria Turturro Klamm

Les Bourgeois Vineyards is best-known for its award-winning wines, but thanks to entrepreneur and distiller Jonny Ver Planck, it has recently added rocheport rum to its repertoire. Ver Planck is the owner of the Shrunken Head tropic Lounge in Jefferson City, Missouri, a tour manager by trade and the mind behind Rocheport Distilling Co., formerly Planck & Anchor Distillers, now in partnership with Les bourgeois. When the distillery’s flagship white rum debuted in May, the first batch of 60 cases sold out in five days. As of October, the rum is sold and served in 60 locations throughout Missouri.

PHOtOGrAPHy by

You’re a tour manager and sound engineer by trade. How did that lead you to distilling? As a tour manager and sound engineer, i travel the world and go to tiki bars everywhere. i’m originally from California by way of belize. i met my wife in St. Louis and she’s from Jefferson City. When we moved here, i missed the beach, so i opened the tiki bar [the Shrunken Head]. When i was in belize, i was already distilling. Distilling was seven years in the making here. the building has to be in place before you can apply for a federal permit. i went to Les bourgeois, and we really just had to buy a still and turn in a federal permit, which took about 15 months, but i’ve been in talks with them for about two and a half years. How do you balance both jobs? i finished a tour with reverend Horton Heat this fall, and it was my last tour of the year. i’ve been touring really heavily this year, so i need to take a step back and concentrate on distilling for the rest of the year. Are the music and distilling industries similar? they’re really the same in a lot of ways. you’re making something from nothing. the whole thing evolves into something different than what you started with. everything about it is very parallel, at least for me – you’ve got partners, contracts for record/bottle distribution, artwork for album covers/ bottle labels. What’s your favorite way to enjoy Rocheport Rum? Our signature drink is the Planck, which is rocheport rum, cream of coconut, Fee brothers Falernum [a sweet syrup of lime juice, almond and ginger], pineapple and limeade. We’re also serving a Ginger roach with ginger beer, rocheport rum and a lime twist. What’s next for the distillery? by January you’re going to see an all-Missouri grape-based vodka, though it’s not grape-flavored. Missouri grapes are pressed, fermented, distilled and bottled at Les bourgeois. We’re even testing a Missouri glass company so the entire product is Missouribased. it’ll be a limited quantity because we only get one chance to make it each year; it depends on the grape harvest.

Coconut rum is also in the works, and i have an aged rum that’s been in barrels for a year now.

Landon Vonderschmidt

julep cocktail club

Shrunken Head Tropic Lounge, 301 Ash St., Jefferson

Les Bourgeois Vineyards, 14020 Hwy BB, Rocheport, Missouri, 573.698.2716, missouriwine.com

26

feastmagazine.com

NOVEMBER 2014

PHOtOGrAPHy by Aaron Ottis

City, Missouri, 573.418.0460, shrunkenheadtropiclounge.com

written by Jenny Vergara

when talented bartender beau williams and his wife, Keely edgington, decided to open Julep Cocktail Club, locals rejoiced over having another excellent place to grab stiff drinks and tasty nibbles in Kansas City’s westport area. walk into Julep during its weekday happy hour, and you’ll find the space feels airy and light. traveling salespeople sit next to corporate types planning to take over the world. throw in a few regulars and tourists, and you have an idea of the draw. weekend nights, however, are another animal. the lights are low, the candles lit. the crowd gets younger and louder, and the tables are a little harder to snag, especially as the hours dwindle toward morning. but the bartenders at Julep are more than happy to make you a drink while you wait for a table to open up. Once one does, you can settle in and order the pimento cheese plate and fried green tomatoes to snack on while you slowly sip a signature Mint Julep, which can be made three different ways: vintage, traditional or modern. you must try each one of them – but maybe not all in one night. the list of sipping whiskeys is as long as your arm, and there is a craft cocktail menu that highlights many different spirits, but truth be told, the talented staff at Julep will make you almost any drink you desire.

Julep Cocktail Club, 4141 Pennsylvania Ave. #104, Westport, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.216.7000, julepkc.com

DrInk DesTInaTIon waverly, mo.

baltimore bend vineyard written by

Pete Dulin

Baltimore Bend Vineyard is named after baltimore, a boat that sank in a nearby bend in the Missouri river. Owners richard and Kathleen Livingston started the Lafayette County vineyard 17 years ago, with the winery following six years later, and have planted seven acres of grapevines in the midst of corn and bean fields. the winery grows the native norton varietal, as well as French hybrids including Chambourcin, Seyval, Chardonel – a hybrid of French Chardonnay and native Missouri Seyval grape – and 2013 Vignoles, a semi-dry white offers tropical notes of green apple, pineapple and banana. the cozy wine tasting room on Highway 24 is an hour’s drive from Kansas City, and about three hours from St. Louis.

27150 Hwy 24, Waverly, Missouri, 660.493.0258, baltimorebend.com PHOtOGrAPHy COurteSy OF Baltimore

Bend Vineyard

three must-try wines the 2011 norton, aged in American oak barrels, won a 2014 Missouri wine Competition silver medal. this full-bodied dry red presents a more juicy, berry-forward flavor and spicy notes compared to the prominent tannic finish and hints of leather evident in the French oak-aged 2011 norton reserve. Pair the norton with Gruyère cheese as a starter.

For heartier fare, the wine works well with roasted chicken and berry chutney, grilled steak or pork loin and mushroom demi-glace.

A bronze medalist in the 2013 Missouri wine Competition, the 2012 mo gold is an off-dry white made with Chardonel grapes and aged in a stainless steel tank.

A hint of sweetness leads to a dry finish. its crisp minerality pairs well with light pasta, seafood or poultry. we’re thinking olive oil-poached scallops with lemon israeli couscous, salmon mousse with steamed artichokes or Parmesan chicken tossed with bow tie pasta, red bell pepper and garlicky sautéed spinach.

PHOtO COurteSy OF tHe Missouri Division of Tourism

baltimore bend’s best-selling, awardwinning 2013 arrowhead red exemplifies Missouri wine produced from native Concord grapes. A sweet, jammy aroma rises from the glass to greet the senses. it’s liquid candy with a kick to satisfy any sweet tooth. if it’s too sweet, use it to make a spritzer by adding sparkling water and ice.

Sip on this red with desserts such as raspberry bars, dark chocolate truffles, fruit crêpes or cheesecake.

Inspired Local Food Culture

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27

the mix

the winter daiquir i there are several versions of the history of the daiquiri, yet all are disputatious. Searching for the origin of this drink is almost impossible, as all stories seem to question aspects of the others. there are, however, two constants that are generally agreed upon – the drink consists of a rum-sugar-citrus combination, and it’s named after an area southeast of cuba’s Santiago de cuba, where the word daiquiri pops up all over the place: affixed to a beach (playa daiquiri), a river (rio daiquiri) and a resort (Villa daiquiri). From there, the myths and tall tales spread quickly. the question that always comes to me when reading through the history of the cocktail is, “Why daiquiri?” What is it about this small town in cuba that spawned one of the most recognizable and frequently ordered libations? What is the history of the town of daiquiri? it turns out that some of the answers can be found in history books. in 1898, the U.S. government acquired cuba from Spain during the Spanish-american War. From that point on, the U.S. invested heavily in industrializing the territories of the caribbean, including cuba. engineers and geologists were brought in to survey the land, search for raw materials and set up means to extract them. the military was used to protect the newfound interests. around the town of daiquiri, large iron deposits were found, and mines were set up along with the means to ship the raw goods back to the U.S. and to other locations for manufacturing. an old military book written in 1909 concerning cuba describes the town of daiquiri as a “barrio and village… [Located] on the coast 21 miles east of Santiago bay… [and notes it] is the shipping point for the daiquiri iron

Story and recipe by Matt Seiter photography by Jonathan Gayman

mines, and the buildings belong to the Spanish-american iron co. and are occupied by employees of that company. population, about 150…

Water supply is received from Magdalena river by gravity through 3-inch iron pipe; quality is excellent; quantity sufficient for all needs…

Surrounding country extremely rough; almost no cultivation and very little stock. Locality fairly healthful.” basically, daiquiri was a tropical port town where goods were imported and exported, which means the odds are pretty high that this town had markets that sold commodities like citrus, sugar and rum – commodities that miners who lived in the rough terrain around the mines would most likely want or need. Sugar and rum have a long shelf life, and although those products were produced on the island, they were most likely not made near a mining town, hence being shipped to the port town. citrus also thrives on the island and would have been readily available; i just doubt the trees grew near the mines, so the market is where it most likely was found. this port town would certainly have seen its fair share of travelers from the U.S. – not so much the vacationing travelers of today, but the business and military travelers sent there to check on operations and company interests – travelers who were accustomed to drinking fine or exotic libations and had expendable income. today when we travel, we search out local things to bring home, items we can’t get or rarely find. Why wouldn’t our recent ancestors do the same? My guess is someone of influence got his or her hands on a bottle of rum, put some citrus in it and added sugar. they were around the port of daiquiri, or shopped in it, and named the drink after the location. that much makes sense, but from there, we don’t know exactly how the drink then traveled around the world.

Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of The Dive Bar of Cocktails Bars, bartender at BC’s Kitchen and a bar and restaurant consultant.

Daiquiri The drink itself is very simple. Classic Daiquiris are made with three ingredients – rum, sugar and citrus – and this simplicity lends itself to an array of variations adaptable to any palate, during any season of the year. Most people hear Daiquiri and think summertime or traveling to a tropical island, but I’ve found the Daiquiri can be enjoyed on crisp fall days to the coldest, most bone-chilling day in January just as it can for the hottest day in August – it’s all about how it’s made.

Serves | 1 | 2 ½ ½

oz rum oz fresh lime juice oz simple syrup ice lime wedge (for garnish)

| Preparation | combine first 3 ingredients in a mixing tin, add ice and shake for 15 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. garnish with a lime wedge.

Making Winter Daiquiris Rum. For a winter-style daiquiri, think dark rum. aged rums are a great substitute for white rums. the seven-year-aged angostura rum is a great brand, along with el dorado, barbancourt and plantation rums. darker rums offer deeper notes of tropical fruits and baking spices that are complementary cold-weather flavors.

Citrus. Late fall and winter in the northern hemisphere are citrus-heavy seasons. this is when the fruit is at its best and most ripe, making the daiquiri an excellent choice this time of year. Modify your recipe with any of the multitude of available citrus – dark rums pair well with Minneolas, Key limes, blood oranges, Meyer lemons, passion fruit and mandarin oranges. i recommend, however, that you use at least ¼ ounce of lime juice to brighten the drink while also sticking to the classic recipe.

Sugar. Spice up basic simple syrup by adding spices you’d normally reserve for fall or holiday baking, such as cinnamon, star anise, allspice, nutmeg, clove or a combination of them. a blending of cinnamon-clove-ancho chile, nutmeg-lavender-hibiscus or star anise-raisin-chocolate will enhance simple syrup and complement daiquiris nicely. you can even use liqueurs as your sweetener – fitting flavorful products include St. elizabeth allspice dram, pierre Ferrand’s dry curaçao, yellow chartreuse, bénédictine or rothman & Winter orchard pear.

ONE ON ONE

kansas city

bo nelson

co-founder and roaster, thou mayest coffee roasters written by Pete Dulin

the name thou Mayest refers to a passage in John Steinbeck’s East of Eden that examines the importance of choice – thou may and, by implication, thou may not. Literary and philosophical? no doubt, but isn’t coffee the stimulant of choice in cafés that fuel great thinkers, artists, activists and, well, the rest of us? bo nelson, co-founder of Thou Mayest Coffee Roasters, would gladly discuss such notions over coffee. For nelson and co-owner, fellow roaster and general manager bill Holzhueter, coffee starts conversations that lead to connection, community and change. Heady ideas, exquisite coffee and hip retail digs in Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District have garnered the micro roaster an instant audience since opening several years ago.

How did you and Holzhueter meet? we’re nature boys. i grew up around horticulture. we met at Family tree nursery, my family’s business. Coffee became our hobby. bill was previously a barista and began exploring roasting as we met. we got a place together and roasted in the garage. What distinguishes your roasted coffee and shop from others in town? Quality is a given. the product is fresh. roasting coffee is like art; it’s subjective. we roast, get out of the way and let people judge. People are attracted to our irreverence. we don’t take roasting too seriously. thou Mayest is bigger than coffee. Coffee is a conduit, a thing to help the moment “be.” it gets people talking and experiencing a moment. You started as roasters with limited distribution before opening a shop, right? Our business plan shrunk from a six-year timeline to nine months. we planned to build up social media and leverage those accounts to know we’d have a steady stream of customers.

Our mission statement was to serve great coffee quickly. the shop was an experiment that went from idea to location very fast. How do coffee shops function as a place for social exchange today? Coffee shops were meant for political, religious and social ideas to collide. in the 21st century, we have technological exchanges, not physical. we want to facilitate conversation where people meet and solve problems. ideas are powerful. How do we promote them? you can’t do that in a sterile modern shop. it’s not primal. that’s why we have old materials as decor versus plastic and metal. we’re creating a space for creative people. You’re collaborating with other local businesses, too. Our beans will be used in torn Label brewing Co.’s beer. we’re talking to the Sundry Market & Kitchen [a market/kitchen opening this month] and Lanmou Chocolates, where we’re collaborating on chocolatecovered espresso beans, mousse and more. Thou Mayest also serves a full bar, which is unusual for a coffee shop. thou Mayest operates a liquor license as a partner with One3Studios. Offering beer and cocktails was a happy accident. bartenders Arturo Vera-Felicie and Vic rodriguez said: “we love how you approach coffee. we do the same with cocktails.” we have a full bar but the service, hours and food are still developing.

Thou Mayest Coffee Roasters, 419 E. 18th St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.213.4593, PHOTOGRAPHy by Aaron Lindberg

thoumayest.com

Christmas Open House Thurs. Nov. 13th 10am - 8pm

Special guest Karen Didion signing her Santa collection.

Holiday Decor Fresh-Cut Christmas Trees and so much more

Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

29

wheRe we’Re dRinKing st. louis

On the shelf hermann, mo.

WINE

AdAm PuchtA Winery estAte norton written by

Ryan sciara

Provenance: Hermann, Missouri Pairing: Grilled vegetables or your favorite cut of grilled meat PHOtOGrAPHy by

Cheryl waller

juniper

written by Kyle harsha

when John Perkins opened Juniper in St. Louis’ Central west end in October 2013, he wanted Southern-style cocktails to be a large part of the dining experience. For Perkins, this meant relying heavily on gin and bourbon as the basis for creative riffs on classic libations. behind the bar at Juniper, bartenders use the same type of high-quality and fresh ingredients that come out of the kitchen, which means many are seasonally driven. this past summer, the bar used fresh peaches to make syrup for its Georgia O’Peach cocktail and smoked corn syrup to flavor the Cotton Gin. And just as the kitchen reimagines classic Southern dishes with creative flair, so does the bar in drinks like the bitter in Pink cocktail, a gin-based take on the Sazerac. if it isn’t busy, take the time to let the bartender craft you a custom drink tailored to your tastes. this winter, don’t miss the bar’s latest reinvention, Gaslight Square, a “second cousin

aRtisan pROduCts

to a Manhattan” made with bourbon, Scotch, vermouth, Cherry Heering and two types of bitters. the beer and wine selections aren’t as creatively named as the cocktails, but certainly cover the necessary bases. the list of bottled and draft beers is small but mighty – and mostly regional. the wine list is edgy enough to keep it interesting, with selections including the expected Chardonnay, Cabernet and Pinot noir, but international choices and grapes such as Chenin blanc and Monastrell also make appearances. Of course, all of these are meant to enhance the fantastic comfort food available. if you aren’t sure which bourbon pairs best with hush puppies and fried chicken, you’ll just have to try them all.

Juniper, 360 N. Boyle Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.329.7696, junipereats.com

springfield, mo.

417 tamper written by liz Miller

The foundation of Springfield’s first third-wave coffee shop and tasting room, Brick & Mortar coffee, is highquality ingredients and craftsmanship executed simply and honestly. The same can be said for its 417 Tamper, made locally with 304 stainless steel and custom-made wooden handles by The 1906 Gents. Tampers are specifically made for espresso-making, available in short, medium and tall sizes, and can come forged with or without the shop’s clean, bold emblem laser-etched on top.

Brick & Mortar coffee, 1666 e. St. Louis St., Springfield, Missouri, 417.812.6539, brickandmortarcoffee.com PHOtOGrAPHy by

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sam holder

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NOVEMBER 2014

Adam Puchta Winery, established in 1855 in Hermann, Missouri, is the oldest family-run winery in the state and is also the oldest continuously owned family winery in the U.S. the winery’s estate norton captures the varietal’s distinct and gamey nose with bright cherry, raspberry and subtle creamy vanilla from French and American oak aging. this award-winning norton is medium to full-bodied on the palate, with more ripe cherry fruit and complex background notes of baking spice and licorice on the finish. this is Missouri’s state grape at its finest.

Adam Puchta Winery, 1947 Frene Creek Road, Hermann, Missouri, 573.486.5596, adampuchtawine.com Ryan Sciara has been in the wine business for more than half his life and has spent the past nine years solely dedicated to selling wine, spirits and craft beer in the retail market. His latest venture, Underdog Wine Co., is the culmination of 23 years of knowledge and experience all crammed into a 600-square-foot retail shop.

Welcoming Visitors for Over 200 Years!

The Businesses of Historic St. Charles, Missouri Come See What’s Happening This Fall Magical Gemstone Jewelry • Mystical Incense • Candles & Crystals Metaphysical & Inspirational Books

Main Street Books Your St. Charles Independent Bookseller

November is

NATIONAL NOVEL WRITING MONTH Prepare yourself: GET A WRITING GUIDE TODAY! NaNoWriMo Participants are welcome to arrange Write-Ins: email us for available times and dates!

www.mainstreetbooks.net Contact us: Phone: 636.949.0105 Email: info@mainstreetbooks.net 307 S. Main St. :: St. Charles, MO 63301

Comfort Foods are back for Autumn and Winter!

Check our website for details Come cozy up to our new firepits

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Now available:

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636 925 1480

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by La Roserie

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#337 S. Main St. St. Charles, Missouri 63301

304 S. Main

314-265-4942 Cheri La Rose laroserie@yahoo.com www.laroserie.com

(636) 949-9502

TEA AND LUNCH

Home Decor Excellence For Over 40 Years

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903 S. Main St Historic St. Charles 636.946.3883 magpiesonmain.com

Fashion Accessories 625 S. Main St. Charles, MO 63301

( 636 ) 947-7740

A Brilliant Choice!

Walter's has as an outstanding reputation for high quality jewelry and diamonds, with our knowledgeable staff and our excellent service.

• Create a stuffed animal of your very own in our STUFFIN STATION

Diamonds, Watches, Fine Jewelry In House Repair • Custom Designs • Appraisals

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Walter's is always buying gold, platinum, silver, estate jewelry, coins, diamonds and Rolex Watches Mon & Fri 9am-7pm • Tues, Wed & Thur 9am-5:30pm • Sat 9am-5pm Walters Jewelry Inc. • Four Generations Since 1925

230 North Main St., St. Charles, MO • 636-724-0604 OR 636-946-7352

• Miniatures for SALE • Many GIFT IDEAS • GIFT CErTIFICATES!

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620 S. Main St. • St. Charles, MO.

636-946-3048

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636/946-0505

THE CELTIC IS BACK! • Clan Badges and Tartans • Kilts for purchase or rental • Pipers Accessories

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www.waltersjewelr yinc.com Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

31

on the Shelf

lenexa, ks.

SPIRIT

Dark Horse Distillery’s reunion rye WHiskey

where we’re drinKing columbia, mo.

written by Matt Sorrell

Provenance: Lenexa, Kansas (44.5% abv) try it: As the basis for a Manhattan

Family-owned and operated, Dark Horse Distillery started up in 2010 and has already seen a good measure of success with its reunion rye.

Made from 100-percent rye in the distillery’s handmade Vendome copper still, the spicy spirit is then aged in new American oak micro barrels to facilitate maximum flavor in the shortest amount of time. reunion rye has garnered plenty of professional honors and accolades, including a 2013 silver medal at the new york world wine & Spirits Competition, a 2014 silver medal at Whisky Magazine’s world whiskies Awards and a 2013 double-gold medal from the Fifty best rye whiskey tasting and judging held in new york City. Keep an eye out for the boozier special release barrel-strength version, too.

Dark Horse Distillery, 11740 W. 86th Terrace, Lenexa, Kansas, 913.492.3275, dhdistillery.com

PHOtOGrAPHy by Aaron ottis

When he’s not writing, Matt Sorrell can be found slinging drinks at Planter’s House in St. Louis’ Lafayette Square or bartending at events around town with his wife, Beth, for their company, Cocktails Are Go.

on the Shelf chicago, il.

BEER

Goose islanD Beer Co.’s ramBler iPa written by Michael Sweeney

dogmaster distillery the north Village Arts District in downtown Columbia is a growing hub for those seeking all types of community culture – art, food and drink. in July, DogMaster Distillery opened and has already proven itself a natural fit. Located inside a small industrial building that feels like your buddy’s garage – a nicely finished garage with a bar, lounge and small retail space – husband-and-wife team Van and Lisa Hawxby manufacture small-batch white whiskey and vodka in the back and serve classic, seasonal cocktails in “the social parlor” in the front. the Hawxbys use the casual tasting room as both a bar and classroom. “there’s this interest, respect and curiosity for what’s going on here,” Van says. it’s not just about having a cocktail; pull up a seat at the black, chrome and lipstick-red bar, and the Hawxbys will teach you how to make your own infusions and simple syrups at home. begin your visit with something classic – perhaps an Old Fashioned, made with

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Style: American iPA (6.7% abv) written by Valeria turturro Klamm

cherries macerated in berry liqueur. After you’ve settled in, order a Ginger Moon, made with white whiskey, ginger ale and housemade ginger simple syrup. this fall, DogMaster’s fresh-pressed apple cider makes an appearance in its seasonal cocktails, along with pumpkin-flavored libations. you can munch on peanuts and pretzels at the bar while sipping a drink, but guests are also encouraged to bring their own food. eventually, the Hawxbys plan to begin producing light and dark rums, gin and barrel-aged whiskeys and ryes. the Hawxbys also plan to have bottles of their spirits in bars, restaurants and stores across Columbia and hopefully statewide within a year.

DogMaster Distillery, 210 D St. James St., North Village Arts District, Columbia, Missouri, 573.825.6066, dogmasterdistillery.com

PairingS: red curry ∙ Gorgonzola

i like when breweries don’t let style dictate what they brew. A red iPA may not be a traditional style, but Goose Island Beer Co. created a well-balanced iPA, letting the Mt. Hood hops shine but never overwhelm. it’s a wonderful blend of spicy American hops with a slightly sticky caramel-malt body that makes for a perfect beer for these cooler months.

Goose Island Beer Co., 800.466.7363, gooseisland.com The creator of stlhops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

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smoking up this joint since February 18, 2011

Penne Ala Salute 1 28 oz. can peeled Italian style pear tomatoes 3 cloves garlic 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon black pepper

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup grated Asiago cheese or Romano cheese ¼ cup fresh basil 4 cups cooked penne pasta cooked 2 cups broccoli florets al dente (1/2 lb. uncooked pasta) ½ cup sliced sun-dried tomatoes 1 cup sliced mushrooms

In a food processor, mince garlic, olive oil and salt & pepper together for one minute. Cut Italian style tomatoes into small pieces (about 1" cubes), reserve some liquid. In a bowl combine garlic & olive oil mixture with cut tomatoes, add chopped fresh basil. Set aside.

Place pasta, broccoli, mushrooms and sun dried tomatoes in a one-gallon pot of rapidly boiling salt water. When water boils again, drain. Toss pasta together with sauce mixture in a large bowl. Serve immediately. Sprinkle pasta with grated Asiago cheese, fresh basil and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Makes 4 servings.

g s bratin usines ly cele years in b 30

Proud

2061 Zumbehl (Bogey Hills Plaza) • St. Charles • 636-949-9005 • Visit us on

• fratellisristorante.com

Get Cooking! Pumpkin Nut Bars Crust: - 1 cup all-purpose flour - ½ cup quick cooking oatmeal - ½ cup brown sugar, firmly packed - ½ cup butter

Filling: 1 15 oz. can solid packed pumpkin 1 12 oz. can evaporated milk 2 eggs 1 tsp cinnamon

-

½ tsp powdered ginger ¼ tsp ground cloves ½ tsp salt ¾ cup sugar

Topping: - ½ cup pecans, chopped - ½ cup brown sugar, firmly packed - 2 tbsp softened butter

Preheat oven to 350°. In a roomy bowl, mix together crust ingredients. Press into a 9x13 ungreased baking dish and bake for 15 minutes. While the crust is baking, beat together the filling ingredients until thoroughly blended and smooth. Pour the filling over the baked crust and bake for 20 more minutes. Mix together the topping ingredients until crumbly, then set aside. When the bars are done baking, sprinkle the topping over filling and bake for 20 minutes. Let cool before cutting.

14000 Ladue Road • Chesterfield • 314-469-7150 • chesterfieldmontessori.org Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

33

New Happy Hour - Mon-Fri 3p-6p ½ off Domestic Beer Well Drinks House Wines and Appetizers 3761 New Town Blvd St. Charles, MO

(636) 925-2961

St Charles Location Only

Good Friends • Good Wine • Good Times Grab your friends and come spend the day at Adam Puchta Winery • Award-winning wines with friendly and knowledgeable staff • Plan a ladies night out on Friday, Nov. 7 and join our 4th annual Doe Camp fundraiser (free admission) • Join us Friday, Nov. 21 for a holiday themed happy hour (advance tickets only) • Get into the holiday spirit and visit Hermann for a European Christmas in December Fall/Winter Hours: Monday-Saturday 9am-5pm • Sunday 11am-5pm

1947 Frene Creek Road • Hermann, MO • 573.486.5596 • adampuchtawine.com

Voted Best Bakery in St. Louis 2014 Traditional European style pastries made from scratch.

Authentic German Christmas Cookies.

Pies and Tarts. Specialty Cakes. Macarons.

Warning: This photo is not edible.

Stop in and find something that is!

4 Seasons bakery

T-F: 7am - 5pm Sat: 8am-3pm

2012 Campus Dr. • St. Charles • 314.288.9176 • 4seasonsbakery.com 34

feastmagazine.com

NOVEMBER 2014

cheers!

get into the holiday spirit on p. 39

SHOP HERE chesterfield, mo.

balaban’s written by Bethany Christo

Balaban’s was part of the original four restaurants that made up the “Class of ’72,” which the late, great St. Louis Post-Dispatch food critic Joe Pollack dubbed as restaurants elevating St. Louis out of its dining rut – although back then, balaban’s was a café. After closing in 2007 and reopening in Chesterfield in november 2009, balaban’s has come full circle, with a casual dining experience accented by a wine shop. Diners often circle the nine racks of more than 800 wines from a variety of regions, types, prices and styles before basing their dinner around their wine selection.

ThREE MusT-Buys fROM BalaBaN’s

the wine racks that fill the middle of the dining room are one of the most prominent features, but relics from the old café also add character.

A small counter serves deli fare, and an 80-seat tuscan-inspired banquet room is perfect for small weddings and holiday events. this month, balaban’s celebrates its fifth anniversary in the new space with weeklong events kicking off Sun., nov. 16, with a Chateau Montelena wine dinner and other special tastings to celebrate the decades that balaban’s, in one form or another, has been a part of the fabric of St. Louis dining.

Balaban’s, 1772 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, Missouri, 636.449.6700, balabanswine.com

PHOtOGrAPHy by Cheryl Waller

“Our real premise is that people shouldn’t have to take out a second mortgage to have great wine with great food,” says co-owner brian Underwood, who came on board with original owner Steve Mcintyre in 2009. balaban’s offers a $20 or less price tag on more than 300 wines, and restaurant patrons can enjoy any bottle with dinner at retail cost with only an $8 corkage fee. the restaurant also has a collection of what it calls “library wines” from the original Café balaban cellar. More than 200 bottles have been aging since the ‘70s, ‘80s and ‘90s in a dual climate-controlled eight-person private dining room.

| 1 | From the original Café balaban cellar comes balaban’s library wines, such as the 1994 Opus One, a cult wine from robert Mondavi and baron Philippe de rothschild; the 1995 St. emilion Grand Cru Chateau Cheval blanc, Premier Grand Cru Classe A; and the 2006 Clos-Vougeot Grand Cru, a red burgundy. Diners can choose the wine pairing listed on the menu or “shop” the restaurant’s nine wine racks and library wines.

gEt tHiS gadgEt clayton, mo.

gefu potato press “Make the fluffiest mashed potatoes ever with a potato press, which presses the cooked potato into rice-sized morsels. It looks like a giant garlic press and removes all lumps from your potatoes, so it is essential for making potato gnocchi. Potato presses feature an added benefit: They can squeeze out the excess water from spinach and other vegetables.”– Anne Cori, president, Kitchen Conservatory Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, Missouri, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com PHOtOGrAPHy COUrteSy OF gEFU

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| 2 | On the fall menu, executive chef D. Scott Phillips serves seasonal dishes such as garlic and herb gnocchi with pan-seared shrimp, scallops and spinach in a lobster buerre blanc, paired with 2011 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay.

| 3 | Custom gift baskets come in all shapes and sizes, but a november favorite celebrates the 1976 Paris tasting victory of California’s Chateau Montelena, which put the state’s wine industry on the map. the basket includes the book Judgment of Paris, which details the historic event, as well as bottles of 2010 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, a balaban’s wine key and two balaban’s wine glasses.

dINe oN deSIgN clayton, mo.

get thIS gadget

kansas city

tamahagane knives “these Japanese knives with Vg5 Japanese-hammered steel are very hard yet durable. the balance is amazing, making these knives the ultimate tool for the serious home cook and professional chef.”

–spencer lutes, operations manager, ambrosi bros. cutlery co.

Ambrosi Bros. Cutlery Co., 3023 Main St., Kansas City, Missouri, 816.756.3030, abcutlery.net photography CourteSy of dave

Simmons

photography by

Shelley Satke Niemeier

inside the box

WrItten by Bethany Christo

Whitebox eatery’s name is a nod to design: the term “white box” refers to a blank slate in the architecture world. tom niemeier and Shelley Satke niemeier, owner-architect and interior designer of St. Louis’ SpaCe architecture + Design, wanted the design of the breakfast and lunch spot to reflect its unique name. “We’re always looking for a backstory,” tom says. “Whitebox to us says simplicity, so we used that as our design concept for all of our design decisions.” Launched by brendan Marsden, who also owns Modesto tapas bar & restaurant, Whitebox brings a chef’s approach to morning and midday meals. the four-month project had a limited budget, but the existing space formerly housed Stratton’s Cafe, which SpaCe also designed. though the design may be simple, the contemporary statement touches all areas – from the striking bamboo floors and ordering counter to the small white “grab-and-go” cases near the front of the store. bamboo floors. “the variegated bamboo is the ‘action’ of the design; everything else is calmer. the yellow and brown strands of bamboo have a nice contrasting element and give organic color to the space, and the warmth of the wood is a consistent feel since the flooring is everywhere. In your own home, wood flooring is a strong statement that can be very profound as long as it’s your driving concept, and everything else reflects that.” –Tom “We wanted to implement a contemporary look that wasn’t cold, and we thought the floors would be a perfect chance to warm up the space.” –Shelley

order counter. “I call the white order counter the ‘big marshmallow.’ We used solid surface material for it, and this is actually in the same position as the old place, so we could keep all the plumbing. the look is monolithic, but all the edges and corners have a radius on them to soften its form where the horizontals and verticals meet. this helps avoid a sterile feeling and makes the counter more approachable. a lot of kitchen and bathroom counters in homes use this technique for a modern way to extend the horizontal surface.” –Tom

grab-and-go order boxes. “these boxes, while a small detail, are one of the most important facets of what brendan [Marsden] wanted. he knew the place would get really busy with employees from local businesses stopping in at lunch to grab a quick bite. they implemented this techy system where you can just order online, walk in the door and pick up your food from these ‘grab-and-go’ cases. they obviously reinforce the name, as they are literal white boxes, but they also reinforce the design concept of simplicity: they’re open in the front and the back, so staff can put orders in the case as easily as customers can pick them up. It could have been a black shelf, or bookshelf, but we always want to go back and reinforce the design concept and brand visually.

Design falls apart quickly unless you think holistically.” –Tom

artISaN produCtS

st. louis

knife sharpener WrItten by Liz

Miller

With thanksgiving a few weeks away and holiday shopping just around the corner, the time is right to invest in tool sharpeners made by st. louis-based Porcelain Touch. these handmade porcelain clay sharpeners can be used to tune up everything from gardening shears to shovels and scissors to kitchen knives, and come with decorative hand-crafted handles in designs such as flowers, leaves, pea pods and more.

Porcelain Touch, ptsharpener.com

Whitebox eatery, 176 carondelet Plaza, clayton, missouri, 314.862.2802, whiteboxeatery.com Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

37

SHOP HERE kansas city

season + square

ARtiSAn PROductS

written by Jenny Vergara

PHOtOGrAPHy by Brad

Austin

when you walk into Season + Square, located just north of brookside, you are met with the word “cookery” painted on the wall with a John ruskin quote underneath: “what does cookery mean? it means knowledge of all herbs and fruits, and balms, and spices, and of all that is healing and sweet in groves, and savory in meat…it means in fine, that you are to see imperatively that everyone has something nice to eat.” every product delivers on this promise. the shop carries a large selection of bulk organic spices, olive oils, seasoning salts and cocktail mixes as well as locally or regionally made lip balms, sauces, salsas, chocolates, old fashioned paper drinking straws and more. if you’re in need of a gift for a food-loving host or hostess, Season + Square is the place to go. Owner Andrea Morrow Joseph is the woman behind the register and the vision behind the store. Chat with her for only a few moments, and you can tell how much she really cares about the products she carries. She can tell you stories about each, and has wonderful ideas for how home cooks can use them. this is retail with a message: “eat well, drink well and save the planet,” her inventory seems to be saying.

Some of the local or regional products she carries include seasoning salts from wood + Salt, olive oil from Olive tree and canisters of tea from Hugo tea Co. – all made in Kansas City – as well as lip balm made by For Strange women and delicious Askinosie Chocolate.

prairie village, ks.

|1|

our sassy pantry cosmo cranberry jam written by Jenny

Vergara

Our Sassy Pantry, based in Prairie Village, Kansas, makes sweet and savory jams, including Cosmo Cranberry Jam – perfect for applying to leftover turkey sandwiches. Available for purchase online at oursassypantry.com.

PHOtOGrAPHy COurteSy OF Our

Sassy Pantry

|2|

Season + Square, 6205 Oak St., Kansas City, Missouri, 816.326.3148, seasonandsquare.com

culinARy liBRARy

kansas city

Blue Chair Cooks with Jam & marmalade by rachel Saunders, bluechairfruit.com written by liz Miller

PHOtOGrAPHy by Sara

Remington

rachel Saunders has built a career on redefining how we understand sustainable, farm-fresh preserving – first with her San Francisco bay Area-based jam company, blue Chair Fruit Co., and then through her first cookbook, The Blue Chair Jam Cookbook, which garnered a James beard Award nomination. Last month, Saunders released her second effort, Blue Chair Cooks with Jam & Marmalade, which packs Saunders’ 16 years of experience, technique and creative recipe development into one 350-plus-page tome. in addition to learning the basics of making jam

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and marmalade at home, Saunders shares a collection of recipes organized into three sections: Morning (think sesame-almond belgian waffles, rose water crêpes and black walnut and caraway scones), Afternoon (beet soup with plums and coriander yogurt, brussels sprouts with kumquats and smoked salt, and rosemary-pluot jam) and evening (prawn and squid paella, braised goat with elderberries

and mint, and farro tagliatelle with mushrooms, radicchio and speck). Saunders’ imagination doesn’t end with eats – cocktail recipes such as raspberry Sloe Gin Fizz and Vieux Carré are sprinkled throughout evening. Published by Kansas City, Missouri-based Andrews McMeel Publishing, the pages of Blue Chair Cooks are beautiful, inspiring and full of fresh ways to enjoy fruit every month of the year.

Vietnamese & Chinese Restaurant A "FEAST" Favorite!

Thank You all Local Area Chefs for Making Us #1 Located in the Meridian Shopping Center at Hanley & Eager Roads behind the Best Buy.

FREE PARKING IN THE METRO LINK GARAGE Tu-Th: 11am-9pm • Fr-Su 11am-10pm 8396 Musick Memorial Dr. • 314.645.2835 www.MaiLeeSTL.com

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2 International Gold Awards in 2014!

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Traditional Blueberry Banana Prickly Pear Watermelon

Fridays & Saturdays: 10 a.m. - 7 p.m.

Sundays: Noon - 6 p.m.

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get thIs gadget branson west, mo.

PHOTOGRAPHy cOuRTesy Of goVino

govino “If you’re a wine drinker, you pick up habits, one of which is all about the stemware. Many may not realize it, but the glass really makes a difference in how your wine tastes. The GoVino glasses are the perfect solution; these glasses can go anywhere. They are a hot item here at Vino Cellars. They are great for enjoying wine on the deck while taking in the beautiful views of the local lakes or at any of the outdoor festivals. Our customers love to pick them up to share with friends.” –Stephana Bekebrede, proprietor, Vino Cellars at the Lake Vino Cellars at the Lake, 15038 Business Hwy 13, Branson West, Missouri, 417.739.1985, vcellars.com

At Skypark, your first day is free.

SkyPark is already the best parking value at Lambert. We offer the newest fleet of shuttles and the most courteous staff. If you like our basic service, you’ll love our valet service – with available car wash and oil change – so you’re ready to roll as soon as you touch down.

Use this coupon to get your first day free and pay just $6 a day for the rest of your stay.* Name

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*Coupon valid for Self-Park only. Requires minimum two-day stay (one day free; one day at $6). Expires February 28, 2015. Not valid with any other SkyPark offer. Name and email information required in order to use coupon.

4500 Crestshire Lane • St. Ann • 314.423.3800 • skyparkstl.com Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

39

King & I Lunch Specials for $10 everyday Lunch Special includes 1 drink, 1 entree and 1 appetizer (Dine-in Only) Between 12/2/14 & 1/4/15 Purchase a $50 Gift Card andReceive a $5 Gift Card for yourself!

Purchase a $100 Gift Card andReceive a $20 Gift Card for yourself!

Between 12/23/14 & 1/4/15 FREE BOTTLE OF CHAMPAGNE when you spend $100.

(Dine In Only. Must be 21)

Private Party Room available, call for reservations.

Delivery now available through www.thebikewaiter.com

3155 South Grand • St. Louis, MO • 314.771.1777 • kingandistl.com

Plan your Holiday Party now.

Interactive Comedy Mystery Dinner Theater “Murder on 34th Street” Kris Kringle, aka Santa Claus, has been on trial before, but this time it’s for MURDER! Join us for the Trial of the Century as Thomas Mara puts Kris Kringle on the stand.

Can Doris Walker Gaylee, the defense attorney, prove his innocence?

You be the JUDGE! This murder trial will be presented wtih a 4-course meal do DIE for!

Call The Bissell Mansion at 314-533-9830 to make your reservations now; it would be a CRIME to miss out on this much fun!

Bring in this ad for $10 off per person.

Valid through November 2014. Not Valid with groups.

4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com

Tenderloin Tuesdays Any steak from our menu with a salad and a side Only $20 (no coupon required) Every Tuesday! Dine-in only.

Not to be combined with any other offers.

114 W. Mill St. • Waterloo, IL • 618.939.9933 • gallagherswaterloo.com

At Mannino's we have all your holiday needs Let us cater your next holiday party! Our meats are hand selected and cut fresh daily! Our Italian sausage is made fresh and we use our own family recipe. Also there is always a butcher on hand for special cuts.

See us also for our Produce, Deli, Bakery and Groceries!

Cottleville - Monday - Friday: 8am - 7pm, Saturday: 8am - 6pm, Sunday: 8am - 4pm

5205 State Hwy N • Cottleville, MO • 636.441.7755 • Visit us on 40

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NOVEMBER 2014

• manninosmarket.com

seed to table

dig into fall harvest season on p. 42

seed to table

ButtERNut squash haRVEst BakE

story and recipe by Crystal Stevens photography by Jennifer Silverberg

For food-lovers in the Midwest, autumn brings to mind nostalgic sights and smells of the season: a cornucopia overflowing with the bountiful harvest, cozy wool sweaters and warm scarves, apple cider by day and bonfires by night, and the aromas of pumpkin pie and holiday feasts. In November, the leaves of oak, maple and sweet gum trees turn striking colors, connecting the tree-lined streets of our bustling cities to the rolling hills of the Ozarks, season after season. On the farm, our favorite vegetable this time of year is butternut squash, a pleasure to grow and a joy to eat – its vibrant color, nutty richness and earthy texture is a perfect reflection of the tastes and smells of autumn.

We plant butternut squash seeds in late May or early June in seed trays in the high tunnel, and then transplant them once they have matured enough – typically by late June or early July. Butternut squash thrive in summer heat. Witnessing the beauty of the bright yellow squash blossoms in contrast to the dark green vining leaves is truly a sight

to see. My husband grows perfect butternut squash. He takes many steps to ensure their survival during the summer. He uses row covers, maintains drip irrigation and cultivates them regularly until they begin vining out. They can be harvested as early as late August but are best when left on the vine to cure, reaching a perfect dark tan color. In midto-late September, depending on the weather, the squash are harvested all at once, and we store them in a cool, dark room.

Butternut squash is a highly versatile vegetable. They can be boiled, baked, roasted, steamed, shredded and grilled. For more than a decade, on the day after Thanksgiving, I have been hosting a harvest potluck for friends. Everyone brings leftovers from their holiday dinner, and we all relax and enjoy the good company and good food around a fire. I usually serve the same dish every year: a delicious harvest bake starring butternut squash. In fact, my husband and I first met over a plate of harvest bake and spice cake around a fire at one of my potluck dinners.

Crystal Stevens is a farmer at La Vista CSA Farm on the bluffs of the Mississippi River in Godfrey, Illinois, where she farms with her husband, Eric.

They have two children. Crystal is an advocate of integrating creativity into sustainability through writing, art, photojournalism and seed-to-table cooking. Find more of her work at growingcreatinginspiring.blogspot.com, which she created to launch her forthcoming book, Grow Create Inspire.

Butternut Squash Harvest Bake This recipe can be adjusted to your tastes and ingredient preferences, but butternut squash shouldn’t be left out. The idea behind this dish is that it integrates both the bountiful vegetables available during a Midwestern fall as well as the myriad flavors reminiscent of autumn: butternut squash, acorn squash, sweet potatoes, apples, walnuts and pecans paired with butter, honey, cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg, all baked to a golden crisp. serves | 4 to 6 | melted butter butternut squash, peeled, deseeded, thinly sliced 1 acorn squash, peeled, deseeded, thinly sliced 3 medium sweet potatoes, washed and sliced into thin rounds 3 apples, washed, deseeded, thinly sliced 1 cup dried cranberries ½ cup sliced dried figs 2 sticks unsalted butter 1 cup local honey 1 tbsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground nutmeg ½ tsp ground cloves ½ cup pecan halves ½ cup chopped walnuts 1

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400°F. Grease a 9-by-13-inch glass baking dish with melted butter.

In a large pot over medium-high heat, bring water to a boil. Place butternut and acorn squash in boiling water and allow to boil for 10 minutes, then add sweet potatoes and allow both to boil for 20 minutes.

Remove squash and sweet potatoes from heat, drain and rinse.

In the greased baking dish, layer boiled squash and sweet potatoes in a spiraling pattern starting at the inside edge of the pan and working your way toward the center.

Layer sliced apples in the same pattern. This should give you one or two nice layers, depending on the size of the squash. Sprinkle cranberries and dried sliced figs on top of the harvest bake.

In a small saucepan, melt butter. Add honey, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. Stir well.

Drizzle mixture over harvest bake dish, taking care to cover entire dish. Transfer to oven and bake for 20 minutes or until apples are golden. Add nuts and bake for an additional 5 minutes to lightly toast walnuts and pecans. Serve warm.

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The Gathering

Happy Thanksgiving!

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Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

43

mystery shopper

MEEt: BuRdOck ROOt you may not realize it, but burdock has been antagonizing you, your pets and whoever does your laundry for decades. it’s time you got to know its softer side.

What IS It?

if you’re looking for burdock, head to the nearest open field; the plant is a common weed found throughout north america, identifiable by its fuzzy burrs and heart-shaped leaves. although it looks unassuming, this lowly relative of rhubarb plays a key role in history: burdock roots have been used since the Middle ages to make a famous british isles drink, and the unique hook-and-loop system found in their burrs was the sole inspiration for Velcro. despite these brief brushes with fame, burdock remains humble, used often in traditional eastern medicine as a blood purifier, diuretic and as treatment for a wide range of illnesses. What the root lacks in beauty, it makes up for in nutrition: When eaten as a vegetable, burdock is a powerhouse of vitamins and minerals.

story and recipe by Shannon Weber photography by Jennifer Silverberg

What do I do WIth It?

the lightly sweet, earthy flavor of burdock root can be tempered by a quick soak in acidulated water, which also keeps its white interior from oxidizing as you chop it. if digging them up isn’t your idea of fun, head to the market and look for brown or nearly black roots, longer than a carrot or parsnip, but with a comparable diameter. after a good scrub and a light peel, throw them into stews and soups, pickle and add to sushi, fry into chips or tempura, or roast alongside other root vegetables, where they add distinctive flavor and texture. if brewing is more your thing, you’re in luck: Many consider burdock root crucial to a sturdy homemade root beer for the essential oil it contains that adds a small amount of flavor. this roasted parsnip and burdock root side dish gives some steadfastly american flavors a little asian flair, just enough to spice up your holiday table without being the odd man out.

Roasted Parsnip and Burdock Root in Pomegranate-Soy Glaze Burdock root browns rapidly, but in this recipe, it’s not a problem. The glaze will darken everything to a deep brown, so skip the acidulated water; soaking mutes the flavor slightly, which you want to avoid.

Serves | 8 to 10 | Pomegranate-Soy glaze

16 3 ¼

Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as bon appétit, serious eats and america’s test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and in life.

oz unsweetened pomegranate juice tbsp soy sauce juice of 1 lemon cup granulated sugar

roaSted rootS

2

2 1 to 2

lbs burdock root, scrubbed, peeled and sliced into ¼-inch rounds lbs parsnips, scrubbed, peeled and sliced into ¼-inch rounds tbsp olive oil kosher salt

to Serve

2/3

½

cup scallions, thinly sliced and divided sea salt and freshly ground black pepper cup sliced almonds, lightly toasted

| Preparation – Glaze | preheat oven to 425°F. in a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat pomegranate juice, soy sauce, lemon juice and sugar, stirring until sugar has dissolved. When mixture begins to bubble, reduce heat to medium-low and cook until mixture has thickened and reduced to ½ cup. remove from heat and allow to cool slightly.

| Preparation – Roasted Roots | in a medium bowl, toss burdock root and parsnip coins in olive oil until coated. spread in a single layer over 2 lipped baking sheets and roast for 30 to 35 minutes, stirring at the halfway point, until tender and lightly browned.

| To Serve | add roasted roots and ½ cup scallions to a large bowl and toss with pomegranate-soy glaze until evenly coated. season with salt and pepper. divide onto plates, top with sliced almonds and garnish with remaining scallions. serve immediately.

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NOVEMBER 2014

St. Louis Fitness Alliance Announces‌

The Top op 10 Healthiest Restaurants in St. Louis

2800 Shenandoah Ave, South City

www.thepurplemartinstl.com

14842 Clayton Rd, Chesterfield www.fit-flavors.com

4356 Lindell Blvd, Central West End www.nathaliesstl.com

2837 Cherokee St, South City www.athleteeats.com

7213 Delmar Blvd, University City

www.winslowshome.com

8007 Maryland Ave, Clayton 140 S. Kirkwood Rd., Kirkwood

11215 Manchester Rd, Kirkwood www.eathotpot.com

6344 S Rosebury Ave, Clayton www.seedzcafe.com

www.crushed-red.com

South County (delivery only) www.mymetabolicmeals.com

622 N and South Rd, University City www.fridasdeli.com/

These restaurants were selected because of their focus and commitment to offering high-quality, fresh, and all-natural ingredients.

The St. Louis Fitness Alliance reminds you that in addition to exercise, eating healthy will also help you to live a longer and healthier life.

Sponsored by:

Powered By:

Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

45

menu options

ARANciNi sTuffEd wiTh MushROOMs If you were to ask an Italian chef for the tenets of Italian cooking, several of the things he or she might say are, “Use the very best ingredients, simply prepared and waste nothing.” This dish satisfies all

STory And rECiPE By Gabrielle DeMichele PhoToGrAPhy By Jennifer Silverberg

of these tenets, making good use of risotto leftovers, prepared any way you want, for another good meal. It may appear to be time-consuming, but if made in stages, it becomes pretty simple – and is simply delicious.

Arancini Stuffed with Mushrooms Serves | 4 to 6 |

chef’S tipS easy arancini. When making arancini, use an ice cream scoop to

ensure each rice ball is uniform in size.

Taking sTock. When making risotto, it is important to heat stock

to just under a boil. This helps the rice absorb the stock without overcooking the rice and making it a sticky ball. risoTTo 101. When making risotto, using a flat wooden spatula with

rounded edges is best. It will allow you to scrape the bottom of the pan clean and get into the curve of the pan to keep the risotto from sticking there and possibly burning. The most important step in making risotto is to stir it constantly, wiping the sides and bottom of the pot clean as you do so, until all liquid is gone. You must never stop stirring and you must be sure to wipe the bottom of the pot completely clean frequently, or the rice will stick. Visit feastmagazine.com to find a basic risotto recipe perfect for including in this recipe.

MAke the MeAl • arancini stuffed with Mushrooms • Marinara Sauce, Braised Artichokes and Scallions Salad • Grilled Swordfish with Tomato Agrodolce Sauce • Espresso Panna Cotta

learn More. In this month’s class you’ll learn how to make rice balls that don’t fall apart and how to properly stuff them to make arancini.

You will also learn how to clean mushrooms and sear them to achieve the ideal texture and flavor.

get hands-on: Join Feast and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., nov. 19, at 6pm at the des Peres, Missouri, location to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.

MushrooM and haM Filling

1 ¾ 2 3 1/3 1/3 ¼ 1

package dried mushrooms lb assorted wild mushrooms Tbsp grapeseed oil Tbsp butter cup shallots, finely chopped cup San Marzano tomatoes, drained and chopped lb ham, cut into very thin strips Tbsp chopped parsley

arancini

2 2

1½ 2

slightly beaten eggs cups risotto mushroom and ham filling (recipe below) cups Italian-flavored breadcrumbs cups bolognese sauce

| Preparation – Mushroom and Ham Filling | Soak dried mushrooms in ¾ cup hot water for 30 minutes. After soaking, carefully remove from water and rinse to remove any remaining grit. Chop into medium pieces and set aside. Reserve mushroom water after straining through a fine strainer lined with a coffee filter. Set aside.

In a sauté pan large enough to hold all of the mushrooms, preheat pan over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms to pan and add 1 Tbsp oil and 1 Tbsp butter and sauté, taking care not to crowd the pan.

Sauté until mushrooms are seared and no liquid remains. Remove mushrooms, and over medium heat, add remaining butter and oil. Add onions and sauté until translucent. Add reconstituted mushrooms, strained mushroom water and tomatoes.

Continue to sauté until liquid is reduced by half. Add reserved mushrooms, ham and parsley to the pan. Continue to cook until mixture thickens and most of the liquid has evaporated. Remove from heat and let cool.

| Preparation – Arancini | In a medium bowl, mix eggs with 2 cups risotto until fully combined and chill for one hour. Meanwhile, place breadcrumbs in a baking pan.

Form risotto into 12 to 16 balls, approximately 1¾ to 2 inches in diameter.

While holding the rice ball in one hand, poke a hole into the middle of the ball and add a spoonful of mushroom mixture into the middle, then pinch the rice to close the hole and cover mushroom mixture. Roll rice balls in breadcrumbs.

Heat a sauté pan over medium heat and add 1 inch oil; using a thermometer, heat oil to 350°F. Fry rice balls until golden brown, turning as necessary. Using a slotted spoon, remove rice balls and transfer to a cooling rack. Let set for 2 minutes. Serve with helping of bolognese sauce.

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NOVEMBER 2014

TV

WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS

Get ready for the holidays…

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to see Feast TV on Sat., Nov. 1 at 2pm and Mon., Nov. 3 at 1pm.

Feast TV will also air throughout the month on nineCREATE.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) on Sat., Nov. 15 at 2:30pm.

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) at 8:30pm on Thu., Nov. 27.

Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU and WUSI at 10am on the first four Saturdays in November (Nov. 1, 8, 15 and 22).

In November, Feast TV gives you a reason to be “thankful” for the bounty of the Midwest. Learn how to make pie from the pros at Peggy Jeans Pies in Columbia, Missouri; meet Kevin Nashan of St. Louis’ Peacemaker and Sidney Street Café, two of the Gateway City’s most talked about restaurants; learn the art of making seasoned salts and beautiful brines with the team behind Wood + Salt in Kansas City; and in an era when we want to know where our meat comes from, Farmer Girl Meats sources from sustainable producers across the region and delivers meat directly to customers.

FREE Knife Shar Sharpening AT SCHNUCKS!

From the seasoned chef to a novice cook, it it' s essential to take care of your knives. Now, you can get your knives sharpened for FREE at all Schnucks stores!

Just follow these simple steps: • Pick up a FREE Knife Sharpening sleeve. Limit 3 per visit.

• Bring your knives* (one per sleeve) to Schnucks.

Give to a Meat Department teammate.

• All knives, up to 3 per visit, MUST be transported in a FREE sleeve provided by our Meat Department.

• Your knives will be sharpened and ready for pickup in 24 hours!

To find your neighborhood Schnucks, visit

schnucks.com

Feast TV is presented by Missouri Wines with additional support from Whole Foods Market. *Excludes serrated blades and scissors. ©2014 Schnucks

Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

47

sweet ideas

PumPkIn roulade WITH BroWn BuTTer Glaze Thanksgiving and pumpkin pie: Many family traditions dictate that you can’t have one without the other. Although we sell a good number of pies each holiday season at Pint Size Bakery & Coffee, our appetite for all things pumpkin is insatiable – think pumpkin cheesecake, pumpkinspice lattes, pumpkin muffins, pumpkin beer, pumpkin-chocolate chip bread, pumpkin whoopie pies and pumpkin-oatmeal cookies.

This time of year, you’ll find nature’s jack-o-lantern in many great fall baking recipes. While I prefer making my own local pumpkin purée for Thanksgiving pies, store-bought is better for cakes. If you do want to make your own purée, try this handy tip: After roasting and puréeing the pumpkin, cook it further on the stovetop to remove additional moisture.

Baking a roulade is an easy and beautiful way to celebrate the season, whether as an alternative to pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving dinner or simply as a seasonal treat to share with friends and family. chef’s TIP: When preparing the brown butter glaze, after you’ve added the half-and-half, if the glaze looks “broken,” where the fat seems separated and the mixture is shiny or greasy, your butter was a bit too warm. This is easily fixed by allowing the glaze to sit at room temperature for 5 to 10 minutes, and then whisking it again until it comes together. The texture of your finished glaze should be pourable but thick; if it’s not, adjust with up to 1½ Tbsp more half-and-half.

Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.

STory And reCIPe By Christy Augustin PhoTogrAPhy By Cheryl Waller

Pumpkin Roulade with Brown Butter Glaze Serves | 8 | PumPkIn cake

1½ 1½ ¾ 1½ ½ 3 1½ ¼ ¾ 1½

cups unbleached all-purpose flour tsp baking soda tsp baking powder tsp ground cinnamon tsp ground ginger large eggs cups granulated sugar tsp kosher salt cup canola oil cups pumpkin purée

cream cheese fIllIng

1 1 2 ½

package cream cheese cup unsalted butter cups powdered sugar tsp vanilla extract pinch kosher salt

Brown BuTTer glaze

½ 2 2 2

cup unsalted butter cups powdered sugar tsp vanilla extract Tbsp half-and-half or whole milk

| Preparation – Pumpkin Cake | Preheat oven to 375°F. grease a 13-by-18-inch cookie sheet with pan spray, line with parchment paper and spray paper.

Sift flour, leaveners and spices into a medium bowl and set aside. Using a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip eggs, sugar and salt until very light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. With the mixer running on medium-low speed, slowly pour in oil and mix until incorporated. on low, add flour mixture slowly until just combined. Fold in pumpkin purée by hand. Spread mixture evenly in prepared pan, being careful that it’s not too thick in the middle. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes until the center springs back when lightly pressed. Allow cake to cool in the pan while filling is prepared.

| Preparation – Cream Cheese Filling |

Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream all ingredients together until well incorporated and no lumps remain.

Scrape well, then beat until fluffy. Set aside.

| Assembly | remove cake from pan, but

do not remove paper from underneath cake.

Spread filling evenly from edge to edge. roll cake into a spiral, using paper to assist, by tucking in the short edge and rolling down the length of the cake’s long side. With the seam on the bottom, place cake on a serving platter and refrigerate, wrapped in plastic wrap, for 1 hour or up to 1 day to firm filling. Prepare glaze when cake and filling are set and chilled.

| Preparation – Brown Butter Glaze | In a

heavy-bottomed saucepan over mediumlow heat, melt butter, and allow to boil gently until sizzling stops and milk solids turn a light, golden brown. Immediately pour brown butter into a medium heatproof bowl and set aside to cool for 5 minutes. once cooled, add sugar and vanilla and whisk until a thick paste forms.

Add half-and-half and whisk until smooth.

Immediately spread glaze over chilled cake, allowing it to drizzle down the edges.

48

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noVemBer 2014

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12th Annual Fair Trade Market 9am-3pm November 22, 23 November 28, 29, and 30 This year's theme is “Fair Trade Matters” and shoppers will find food samples, product demos, movies, education about Fair Trade, giveaways, kids’ activities, and food and items for sale.

129 Woods Mill Rd (141 at Manchester Rd)• 636.394.7506 • manchesterumc.org/ftm

JOIN US! Wine Wednesday: Let Chef Mehmet take you on a culinary adventure with special wine pairings & select bottles half price all day.

Thursday: Dine, Drink & Belly Dance with weekly cocktail specials & exciting belly dance performances.

Sunday Brunch & Dinner: Enjoy an amazing breakfast menu with our delicious boozy breakfast cocktails & Family Dinner Night.

Lunch: Tues-Fri - Dinner: Tues-Sun - Sunday Brunch Happy Hour: Tues-Fri

6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

49

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feastmagazine.com

NOVEMBER 2014

| 52 |

Well-seasoned

Holiday starters, sides and sweets.

| 65 |

a dash of imagination

Wood + Salt shake up flavor in KC.

| 70 |

Piece by Peace

Behind the scenes with St. Louis’ chef Kevin Nashan.

| 82 |

Prairie to Plate

Farmer Girl Meats connects small Midwest farms with home cooks.

| 90 |

second helPings

Meet the mother-daughter team at Peggy Jean’s Pies in Columbia.

well-seasoned

6

artisan starters, sides and sweets story and recipes by Shannon Weber

|

pHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

It starts with the first puff of warm breath in frigid air; tiny ice crystals wink at you in the autumn sun. You take it all in at once: fall, a welcome sensory overload of sights, sounds and scents. It has arrived, and you smile, knowing that this – the crackle of leaves, the promise of snow, the riot of fall produce and handcrafted goods – is what the Midwest does best. The scene plays out over and over on television and in movies: We chuckle and pretend it happens everywhere, but we know better; we are the lucky ones.

Remember this as you prepare for the joyous onslaught of dinner parties, for the family visits that end too soon and for the inevitable uptick in grocery runs (you knew you were forgetting something) because it’s all too easy to forgo the search for locally produced goods in favor of perceived convenience. Think twice: Local products are available in more places than you think, and they can take your winter meals from solid to spectacular with little effort.

Naked Bacon out of Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, crafts small-batch, nitrate-free bacon the same way the current owner’s great-grandfather did more than 150 years ago; the jalapeño-flavored variety will send your Brussels sprouts (or eggs) soaring. McKaskle Family Farm in Braggadocio,

1 STARTER

Missouri, cultivates non-GMO popcorn polenta with a deep flavor and extra-coarse texture that breathes new life into creamy polenta dishes.

In Bowling Green, Missouri, the shining star of Hilty’s Bee Yards is an impossibly dark, malty buckwheat honey, with uses limited only by your imagination. The same is true of Bekemeier’s in Neosho, Missouri, where one taste of the farm’s blackberry butter instantly calls to mind the late summer sun. At Green Dirt Farm, tucked away in Weston, Missouri, the owners raise sweetfaced sheep – referred to as “the ladies” – to turn out a steady rotation of impeccably crafted, grass-fed cheeses ideal for snack-happy guests or tucking into favorite recipes. For dessert (or for anytime), there’s the one and only Askinosie Chocolate, nationally recognized for its luxurious bean-to-bar sweets out of Springfield, Missouri; stock up, as it tends to disappear rather quickly when left unattended in kitchens.

Whatever you’re planning, these recipes – crafted around some of the most distinctive products our region has to offer – are what you’re craving. Make them all at once or a few at a time: They slide right in alongside your traditional holiday feast or your Tuesday night roasted chicken and turn every chilly evening into a celebration of the season’s harvest.

Dirt Lover Fig and Fresh Thyme Pastry Pockets It’s hard to go wrong with something that resembles miniature Pop-Tarts pastries. The supple nature and mushroom-like flavor of this sheep’s-milk cheese is perfect for melting inside a puff pastry; add sweet figs and some fresh thyme, and you have a can’t-miss appetizer for cool weather.

section into 4 equal pieces, for a total of 12 rectangles per sheet. With the long side facing the top and bottom of the work surface, place a slice of cheese in the middle of the right side.

Place 2 cubes fig paste and 1 dried fig segment on top, and sprinkle a few fresh thyme leaves over; season with salt and pepper.

Yields | 24 pastry pockets |

Wet fingertip with water and dampen the perimeter of rectangle. Working from left to right, fold pastry over the ingredients (as if you were closing a book) and press together; crimp edges with a fork to seal and use a skewer to poke holes in the top of each. Repeat with remaining pastry squares.

Transfer to prepared sheet pan. Repeat with remaining puff pastry sheet and place pan in refrigerator to chill for 20 minutes.

4 sheets frozen puff pastry, thawed according to package directions 4 oz Green Dirt Farm Dirt Lover Cheese, cut into 24 equal pieces 4 oz fig paste, ¼-inch dice 12 dried Black Mission figs, halved small bunch fresh thyme, leaves stripped from stems sea salt and freshly ground black pepper small bowl of water, for sealing 1 egg beaten with 1 Tbsp water, for egg wash

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400°F. Line two sheet pans with parchment paper.

On a lightly floured surface, gently roll out one sheet of puff pastry into a 12-inch square; trim edges as needed with rotary pizza cutter. Cut into 3 sections along the seams, then cut each

Remove pan from refrigerator and transfer to work surface; brush each pastry with egg wash.

Sprinkle a few thyme leaves down the center of each pocket.

Bake in oven for 18 to 20 minutes, until pastry pockets are puffed and golden. Remove from oven and allow to cool slightly, 5 minutes.

Transfer to serving tray; serve warm.

Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

53

STARTER

2

Asian Pear and Fennel Salad with Blackberry Butter and Sage Vinaigrette Think of this as the perfect crunchy, all-purpose salad for fall and winter. Bitter chicories, fennel and Asian pears are at their peak during cold months, and the blackberry butter adds a touch of summer sunshine to the mix.

Serves | 8 | Blackberry Butter and Sage Vinaigrette

¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp olive oil, divided 1 Tbsp minced shallots 2½ tsp fresh sage leaves, thinly sliced ½ tsp minced garlic ¼ cup white balsamic vinegar ½ cup Bekemeier’s Blackberry Butter

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Asian Pear and Fennel Salad

1 lb mixed chicories (endive, frisée, radicchio), washed and roughly chopped 1 medium fennel bulb, very thinly sliced 2 Asian pears, cored and thinly sliced, held in a bowl of acidulated water 2/3 cup hazelnuts, lightly toasted and roughly chopped

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

54

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NOVEMBER 2014

| Preparation – Blackberry Butter and Sage

Vinaigrette | Heat 1 Tbsp olive oil in a skillet

over medium heat. Add shallots and sage and cook until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in garlic and heat until fragrant, about 30 seconds, and remove from heat.

In the bowl of a food processor, add shallot mixture, balsamic vinegar and blackberry butter, pulsing to blend and break down solids. With the motor running, stream in remaining olive oil and process until dressing is smooth and emulsified.

Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a jar, seal and let flavors blend for at least 1 hour at room temperature.

| Preparation – Asian Pear and Fennel

Salad | Toss chicories together in a large bowl.

Transfer to large platter and top with fennel, Asian pear and toasted hazelnuts. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

| To Serve | Serve family-style on a large platter or divide salad onto plates and serve with blackberry butter and sage vinaigrette.

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NOVEMBER 2014

55

3 side

Buckwheat Honey Rolls Buckwheat honey is a robust honey with a molasses-like darkness and a distinct, malty flavor. The dynamic duo of buckwheat flour and buckwheat honey sets these rolls apart; equal parts hearty and sweet, they make a perfect dinner roll for winter meals.

Yields | 24 rolls | 1½ cup whole milk 1 stick unsalted butter, in pieces 1/3 cup Hilty’s Bee Yards buckwheat honey ¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp granulated sugar, divided ½ cup warm water (110°F) 1 Tbsp active dry yeast 3 lightly beaten eggs

milk, butter, honey and ¼ cup sugar until butter has melted. Set aside to cool.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, add warm water, yeast and remaining 1 Tbsp sugar; stir together and let sit until foamy.

Add cooled milk mixture, eggs, salt, buckwheat flour and 4 cups all-purpose flour and stir together on low until incorporated. Continue to add remaining all-purpose flour, ½ cup at a time, until dough begins to form a ball and pulls away from the sides of the bowl (this should take between 6 to 7 cups of flour).

Scrape down the sides of the bowl from top to bottom and increase mixer speed to medium high for 4 to 5 minutes.

Line a lipped half sheet pan with parchment paper, enough to hang slightly over the sides.

Turn dough out onto work surface and gently punch it down to remove air. Divide into 24 equal portions and shape each into a roll. Place them 1-inch apart – 4 rows of 6 – on the prepared sheet pan. Cover once more with a towel and proof for 45 minutes.

2 tsp kosher salt ½ cup buckwheat flour 7 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

olive oil, to coat bowl

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. In a small saucepan over medium heat, heat

Use a bowl scraper to turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Shape into a smooth ball. Oil a large, wide mixing bowl and place the dough inside, turning to coat all sides.

Cover bowl with a clean kitchen towel and set in a warm place free from drafts until dough doubles in size, 60 to 75 minutes.

Bake rolls on the middle rack of the oven for 15 minutes until tops are just golden and rolls are puffed. Remove and allow to cool slightly before serving.

Serve warm or at room temperature with fresh butter, honey or preserves.

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Delivering coffee beans monthly from St. Louis' best roasters The Flyover Coffee Club is a great way to enjoy St. Louis' best coffee (and tea). Coffee beans (or tea leaves) are delivered directly to your door on a monthly basis and, in the case of coffee, within days of roasting. All of the coffee included in the club is roasted by Missouri-based small-batch roasters who care about coffee as something beyond a commodity. Gift subscriptions available.

The club currently includes coffee from Blueprint, Kuva, Stringbean, Riley' s, and La Cosecha.

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NOVEMBER 2014

57

Side 4

Creamy Popcorn Polenta with Smoked Cheddar and Caramelized Onions There’s a certain grittiness to popcorn polenta that’s hard to find in standard varieties, and the textural element it provides is outstanding. Cooked polenta will form into whatever shape it’s cooled in, so place your leftovers in a square baking dish to cut into squares and grill the next day.

Serves | 8 | Caramelized Onions

2 Tbsp unsalted butter

3 to 4

medium yellow onions, skin

removed, ends trimmed and sliced from root to stem

water (to deglaze pan)

sea salt

Popcorn Polenta 4½ cups water 1 tsp kosher salt 1 cup McKaskle Family Farm popcorn polenta 3 Tbsp unsalted butter 6 oz high-quality smoked Cheddar, coarsely grated

sea salt and freshly ground

black pepper

| Preparation – Caramelized Onions | In an 11-inch stainless steel pan, heat butter over medium heat until melted. Add onions; stir to coat. Allow to cook over medium heat, stirring every 8 to 10 minutes. Use a wooden spoon to scrape the fond from the bottom of the pan, and deglaze with water as needed. Cook for 50 to 65

minutes, until desired caramelization has been achieved. Season to taste and set aside.

| Preparation – Popcorn Polenta | Add water and salt to a 3-quart pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Stream in the polenta slowly, whisking as you go, and continue whisking until polenta has softened and expanded and remains suspended in the water. Turn heat to low, cover and allow to cook for 30 minutes, thoroughly stirring every 10 minutes and paying special attention to the bottom and sides of the pot.

Once polenta has reached desired consistency, add butter and cheese and stir until melted into polenta. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Divide polenta onto plates and top with warm caramelized onions. Serve immediately.

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Feast Your Eyes

In partnership with chef Cassy Vires of Home Wine Kitchen, CAM presents a tour of the Museum followed by an intimate four-course meal inspired by the current exhibitions.

Tuesday, December 9 Tour: 6:30 pm Dinner: 7:00 pm $75; $50 for members.

Limited seating.

Purchase tickets at camstl.org/feast

Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis 3750 Washington Blvd 314.535.4660 camstl.org Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

59

Side

5

Jalapeño Bacon-Roasted Brussels Sprouts and Apples This simple side dish is brought to life by the unique flavor of the jalapeño bacon; the intensity and smokiness permeate the other ingredients, but never overpowers them.

Serves | 8 | 1 8

½ 1½

60

2 medium Fuji apples, cored, quartered and sliced into 1-inch pieces

sea salt and freshly ground

black pepper

feastmagazine.com

Tbsp olive oil oz Naked Bacon jalapeño bacon, in ½-inch pieces cup finely diced shallots lbs Brussels sprouts, stems removed, halved and yellow outer leaves discarded

NOVEMBER 2014

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400°F. In a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat.

Add bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until just crisp. Remove bacon to a paper towel-lined plate and set aside to drain, leaving the fat in the skillet. Heat skillet over medium-high heat, add shallots and cook until

softened, 2 minutes. Add Brussels sprouts and apples and stir thoroughly to coat. Season with salt and pepper.

Transfer entire mixture to lipped sheet pan and roast in the oven for 40 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes, until apples are tender but not mushy, and sprouts are dark and toasted. Check seasoning, and season again to taste.

Place in a large, shallow bowl or divide onto plates and serve immediately.

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Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

61

Sweet 6

Chocolate Cake with Winter Spices As ideal for nibbling as it is for baked goods, you’ll notice the difference between Askinosie’s single-origin chocolate and a standard baking chocolate immediately. Whereas baking chocolate tends to have muted flavors, this Honduran chocolate is crisp, clean and smooth. See recipe on p. 63.

Serves | 16 | 4

1½ 1 1 ¾ 2 2 ½ ¼ 1½ 2 ½ 1

2 ¾

oz Cortés Askinosie Chocolate 70 percent single-origin Honduran dark chocolate, roughly chopped cups unbleached all-purpose flour tsp baking soda Tbsp high-quality natural cocoa powder tsp kosher salt tsp ground ginger tsp Vietnamese cinnamon tsp ground cloves tsp grated fresh nutmeg cups dark brown sugar, firmly packed sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature cup unsulphured molasses Tbsp fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated zest of 2 medium oranges juice of 1 medium orange eggs, at room temperature cup boiling water

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350 °F. Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan. Line bottom with parchment paper; butter parchment liner.

In the top of a double boiler set over justsimmering water, melt chocolate, stirring frequently. When chocolate is completely smooth, set aside to cool slightly.

In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, cocoa powder, salt, ground ginger, cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. Set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, add brown sugar and butter and beat on high until fluffy, 4 to 5 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, add melted chocolate and beat until incorporated. Add molasses, grated ginger, orange zest and juice and beat until combined; add

eggs, one at a time, beating after each addition and scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed until everything is homogenous. Add the flour mixture to the bowl in 2 parts, mixing for 10 to 15 seconds after each incorporation; scrape down the bowl and mix for 10 seconds more. With the mixer on low, stream in boiling water and mix until batter is completely homogenous, thoroughly scraping through to incorporate any dry patches.

Pour mixture into prepared springform pan and bake for 45 to 50 minutes, checking at the 40-minute mark for doneness. Cake is done when a wooden skewer or cake tester inserted in the middle of the cake comes out clean or with a few crumbs, but remains slightly sunken in the center.

Transfer pan to a wire rack to cool completely.

Release sides of springform pan and lift it over cake.

Transfer cake to serving plate and slice to serve.

EXTRa SwEET onlinE EXcluSivE HUNGRY FOR MORE? Visit feastmagazine.com for a recipe for Nettle Ice Cream with RosemaryCaramel Popcorn made with Green Dirt Farm’s Farm Fresh Nettle Cheese.

Inspired Local Food Culture

NOVEMBER NOVEMBER 2014 2014

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64

feastmagazine.com

NOVEMBER 2014

a of imagination Written by Jonathan Bender

|

pHOTOGRAPHY by Landon Vonderschmidt

wood + salt shakes up unexpected flavors Jess and Ben Anthony figure it’s time for a change of season. And that change will come via smoked salts in glass bottles, bags of bourboninfused smoked wood chips and rubs produced

by Wood + Salt, their 15-month-old Kansas City-based spice company.

“I think people are getting more conscious of where their food comes from,” Ben says. “Beef isn’t just beef, and salt isn’t just salt. Sea salt has different minerals that change the texture and flavor. And we have such a long history of using salt in different ways. There’s always that backstory to what we do.”

As the lunch crowd begins to thin on a Wednesday afternoon at City Market, a daily open-air market, the Anthonys are just starting a new batch of storytelling in the form of Merlot Salt and Cascavel Rose rub. Jess pours a bottle of merlot into a flat-bottomed saucepan filled with Pacific Flake Salt while her brother Ben snips the top off the first of a hundred chile peppers in the Farm to Table Kitchen at City Market that they’re currently renting.

“The first few times we made a batch, I was worried it would be catastrophically different,”

Jess says, as she gently turns the Merlot Salt, which has gone from a deep red to a lustrous purple. “It all starts as separate clumps and ends up as this one thing. I feel like that’s what I do in my life. When I was in school, I liked taking really different classes. I liked to find the similarities; it feels like cracking the code.”

On the central stainless steel prep tables, Ben will spend the next hour deseeding chile peppers – the seeds are rich with oil that traps the capsaicin (the compound that makes hot peppers hot).

“We talked about giving this one up,” he says.

“But we can’t. It’s perfect.”

As the pepper seeds slowly pile up in a metal bowl, the kitchen air is infused with the heavy warmth of the wine on the stovetop. It’s a bit like working inside a decanter. Jess looks at the Merlot as a finishing salt, wherein the smell of the salt – rather than the taste – is what will make a given dish. Jess wants the sugar in the wine to begin caramelizing at the bottom of the pan, and she keeps her nose close to the stovetop to make sure the batch is not burning.

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“I really cook by smell and the beautiful experience of a smell; it’s hard to get that with taste,” Jess says.

“We’re almost trying to make the feel of a smell.”

Her brother strips out the peppers’ veins and then clips them into pieces roughly the size of a Chiclet.

He likens the taste and appearance to cherry fruit leathers. The peppers will be ground up in a repurposed coffee grinder and mixed with rose hips, black pepper, kosher salt, cumin and spearmint for the Cascavel Rose blend. Jess turns to prepping sprigs of rosemary, which will be briefly smoked before being ground and added to the Merlot Salt.

Each glass bottle will be filled, tamped and stoppered by hand – the Anthonys can produce 150 bottles or more in three hours.

Nothing at Wood + Salt is hurried. And everything is

always in development. A jalapeño salt had a bright, beautiful kick that proved to be too fleeting – sunlight blanched away the green and heat from the peppers. The optimum time for a coffee-infused salt would appear to be two-and-a-half months, but a year into experimenting, Jess isn’t done tweaking her mixture for a potential collaboration with Kansas City-based coffee roaster Oddly Correct.

“There are less new things to get excited about as you get older,” Jess says. “So you have to go for things that are more subtle.”

For the Anthonys, this is about reclaiming some of their family’s own connection with food and the land. Their grandfather was a butcher in central Kansas, and they can still remember their grandmother lecturing a young Dillons grocery clerk about how to part out a chicken. When he

didn’t seem to be picking it up, she went behind the counter and broke it down into seven pieces herself.

“I love that things come around and go around,” Jess says. “I think we’re turning back around in this direction.”

The Anthony children (they also have a sister, Haley) grew up in Olathe, Kansas. Even as kids, Jess would enlist her younger brother in culinary projects – bribing him with candy to clean up after she made dinner.

Her food identity as an adult was forged in San Francisco, where she lived for seven years. She was a barista at Blue Bottle Coffee Co. long before the West Coast roaster was a national name.

“It gave me the blueprint for what was possible

PICTURED TOP CENTER: Sister and brother Jess and Ben Anthony prepare batches of their artisan sea salts at City Market in Kansas City.

and how to reach people,” she says. “It was going to be expensive, but you do it anyway.”

She returned to Lawrence, Kansas, in the summer of 2012 armed with a business plan and an idea to sell spices and serve food at farmers markets.

But the process of getting licensed and the initial response from buyers showed her that the spices were, in fact, her business.

The ideas for new salts and rubs come from cookbooks, food blogs and the tea and herb section of the grocery store. The Ol’ Tradition salmon blend is their “take on a Southern smokehouse,” made with granulated honey, smoked paprika and smoked alderwood salt. The Breakfast Sausage rub (which smells like a proper Midwest plate of biscuits and gravy) pairs sage with oregano, fennel, black pepper and smoked rosemary sea salt.

When she needed extra labor for the business, Jess turned to her brother – a handyman, bartender and anthropology and business student at the University of Kansas.

“My learning style is like Papa Bear from The Berenstain Bears,” Ben says. “I learn by doing what I’m not supposed to do.”

Jess regularly feeds him ideas for new blends that he dutifully lists in a notebook along with the historical background and science of salt.

“You start out with Google and see where it takes you,” he says.

Late last summer, the siblings commandeered their mom’s potting shed for the wood component of Wood + Salt. They toast

American white oak wood chips on a screen in an open-faced kiln. The chips are then immersed in bourbon inside of a 50-gallon drum for three months for their Bourbon Smoking Chip.

“Toasting the wood brings out the vanilla – it’s the same flavor you get in oak-aged whiskey,” Jess says. “So we’re almost doing the same thing, just in reverse.”

A second wood chip – the Manhattan Blend – uses bourbon-infused smoked cherry wood to emulate the classic cocktail. Wood + Salt’s also started infusing peppercorns with rye whiskey and then smoking them over pecan wood.

“You get this pipe tobacco sweetness from the rye, and the outside is bacon-y and smoky,” Jess says.

PICTURED BELOW: A selection of Wood + Salt’s product line, which includes spice blends, rubs, infused sugars, smoked finishing salts and more.

PICTURED: The Anthonys toast American white oak wood chips on a screen in an open-faced kiln. Later, the chips are immersed in bourbon to make their Bourbon Smoking Chips.

Off the woodpile, they’ve found inspiration from chefs and other food producers this year. Doug Sayles, who runs the Smokin’ Fresh Streetside BBQ food truck with his wife, Paula, has been using Wood + Salt’s The Bitter Rib (an homage to Kansas City barbecue made with chipotle, cumin, smoked paprika, Guatemalan coffee and raw sugar) for his pulled-beef sandwiches.

Sayles has recently tasked Wood + Salt with recreating a lime-pepper seasoning that he can no longer find for his mixed vegetables. He’s not the only one knocking on the company’s virtual door.

A guest spot in the makers’ tent at Boulevardia – a music, food and beer festival put on by Boulevard Brewing Co. this past June – led the local brewery to inquire about collaborating with Wood + Salt.

“I’m an anti-salt guy,” Sayles admits. “I was never one to brine. But an overnight dry brine [on the chuck roll] really brings out the flavor of the beef. And that little bit of coffee really works in the bark on the meat.”

“We have been admirers of their spices and brines for a while now, so at Boulevardia we started talking about how cool it would be to partner on a rub or salt,” says Amber Ayres, Boulevard’s director of

guest relations. “From our chat, a Tank 7-infused salt was born, and it looks, smells and tastes amazing.”

allows you to get that smell that reminds you of Tank 7,” Jess says.

The Anthonys added Tank 7 – a Belgian farmhouse ale – to sea salt and then slowly baked it off. The resulting salt had the bready character of beer, but was missing some of the citrus and hop notes that are part of Tank 7’s makeup. So, the siblings created their own brew with fresh grapefruit zest, coriander, a pinch of allspice and Amarillo hop pellets ground into a fine powder.

As Wood + Salt expands, the Anthonys are hoping to forge new relationships with local growers and use the bounty of area farms to drive new blends for salts. They’ve worked with Matthew Lilly at Goat Hill Farm in southern Kansas City, using his Aji Amarillo heirloom peppers for a pork chop rub.

And a new partnership with an apprentice brewer, Rodney Beagle, at a Northland brewery has them further exploring the possibilities for beer that they touched on with the Boulevard Tank 7 salt.

“The citrus really opens up your sinuses and

Learn what inspires brother-and-sister team Ben and Jess Anthony to create their artisan seasonings for Wood + Salt in the November episode of Feast TV. 68

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“I love the idea of something that’s ethereal,” Jess says. “It’s perfect, then it’s not.”

Find Wood + Salt products at woodandsalt.com.

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Inspired Food Culture

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piece by peace how chef kevin nashan quietly transformed WriTTen by Seán Collins

|

pHOTOGrApHy by Jonathan Gayman

Kevin Nashan wants to hug you.

“There are so many choices to go out for dinner – so many restaurants in this town – you almost want to hug every customer that comes in the door. I do.”

And you should believe him.

the st. louis dining scene

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71

peacemaker lobster & crab co: today, it’s 335 pounds of maine lobster and blue crabs from maryland.

You should believe that Kevin Nashan would like to hug everyone who comes through the doors of his restaurants. But it has nothing to do with the realities and vagaries of the restaurant business, which Nashan knows well. No, Nashan wants to hug you because he’s just that nice of a guy.

This past summer, Nashan, his brother Chris and his wife, Mina, opened Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. in the Benton Park neighborhood of St. Louis, just down the street from its venerable older sibling and longtime neighborhood anchor, Sidney Street Cafe.

Once – sometimes twice – a day Nashan jumps on Interstate 55 and then Interstate 70 and heads north to the airport. He cranks up KSHE for the ride and plays steering wheel percussion. It takes him a little more than 20 minutes before he is pulling up to the loading dock at Southwest Airlines’ air cargo facility.

“Do you ever run into chefs at the airport?” he’s asked.

“Not really,” he says. Then adds, a little sadly, “I wish I did more.”

Nashan explains that the crabs he is picking up this afternoon were plucked from the water at 5am, and they will show up on the menus of restaurants this evening both on the East Coast and at “the little podunk Peacemaker in St. Louis, Missouri.”

That leveling of the culinary playing field is important to Nashan.

“It’s crucial,” he says.

So crucial, in fact, that it falls to the chef-owner of Peacemaker to make the run to the airport.

“Right now, I’m the only guy that can do it.”

At the airport, the fellows behind the counter know him as the guy who gets the crab and lobster. The security screening dogs know him, too, or at least they seem keenly interested in the cargo he picks up.

Today, it’s 335 pounds of Maine lobster and blue crabs from Maryland.

Back in Benton Park, the crabs are feisty when Nashan opens their case and pulls back the wet sports page at the top of the box.

PICTURED TOP LEFT: The kitchen crew at Peacemaker expedites orders to guests in the dining room. PICTURED TOP RIGHT: Fresh

oysters are flown in daily to stock the restaurant’s raw bar. PICTURED CENTER RIGHT: Fresh lobster boils about to leave the kitchen. PICTURED BOTTOM RIGHT: Steamed Maryland crabs, plated and ready to be served.

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The crabs greet the humid St. Louis air with some fight: They take a few swipes at the chef’s fingers, their shells iridescent and vividly blue in spots – what a naturalist might call cerulean, with perhaps a hint of lapis lazuli.

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PICTURED: Fresh oysters are flown in from East Coast locales daily, so the selection varies from day to day.

PICTURED RIGHT PAGE: Blue crab with red pepper jam, radishes and charred shishito peppers at Sidney Street Cafe.

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peacemaker

That color comes from alpha-crustacyanin, the blue namesake pigment of these beautiful swimmers who have traveled today from Charm City to Benton Park.

Kevin Nashan does what every chef does: He fabricates experiences that fit neatly on plates and are somehow inspired by his own memory of taste, ingredients, moods and place.

As they cook, the alpha-crustacyanin in the blue crabs breaks down, leaving only the rosy pigments behind. The crabs are the color of new bricks when they head out to the tables at Peacemaker.

For Nashan, those experiences are rooted in northern New Mexico, and Spain, and the Gulf Coast of Louisiana and the Pyrenees.

Welcome to St. Louis, hon.

Imagine a map of the Western Hemisphere.

Now draw this line in your head: Santa Fe, New Mexico, to St. Louis; now over to Hyde Park, New York; down to New Orleans; then up to Chicago; then across the Atlantic to Spain; then go wandering a bit and zig-zag to the Basque country; then back to New York, but this time Manhattan. And then finally draw a line back to St. Louis and to Sidney Street.

Now, imagine all the food you’ve eaten along the way.

sidney street

Kevin Nashan first came to St. Louis as an undergraduate at Saint Louis University in 1991.

He’s a Billiken through and through.

“I had the best time. Great education.”

Marketing degree in hand, Nashan headed to New York’s Hyde Park to attend the Culinary Institute of America (CIA).

While still a student at the CIA, Nashan interned at the New Orleans fine-dining landmark, Commander’s Palace.

“I was petrified,” Nashan remembers. “I was like, ‘I am going to get destroyed.’ Day two – I knew it was meant to be. I was just in love with it.” He recalls thinking, “Man, this is what I need to be doing.

Nestled in the Garden District, across the street from one of the city’s storied cemeteries and looking every bit like a circus tent if Alice ran a circus in Wonderland, Commander’s asserts a kind of social sway seen in few other places in the country. It says, in effect, come here, and we’ll be sure to show you a very good time, but don’t forget your coat and tie.

“I remember looking at a Charlie Trotter book and thinking, ‘Holy shit, you can do this with food?’”

Nashan says the regiment of the professional kitchen appealed to him. “There was an order,” he says. “It was a breath of fresh air.”

“That’s the cool thing about Commander’s,” Nashan says. “It’s a fine-dining restaurant, but it’s a big party.”

And its kitchens have been the training ground for the likes of chefs Emeril Lagasse, Paul Prudhomme, Tory McPhail and David Kinch.

St. Louis’ Josh Galliano cooked there, too.

Nashan says he got a lesson from the Brennan family, the owners of Commander’s, not only in Creole cooking, but also in business. They kept a poster on the wall that read:

sidney street cafe: they’re in on monday... ‘what do we want to cook this week?’... ‘what haven’t we played with recently?’... beginning a game plan.

“A restaurateur is a diplomat… a teacher… a janitor…” (The list went on.)

“It showed all the hats that you wear on a daily basis. There are so many things that go on throughout the day that people don’t know about, that they don’t want to know about.”

After graduating from culinary school, Nashan once again worked at Commander’s under chef Jamie Shannon, who would invite cooks to his house on weekends for beer and seafood.

“He always had a keg at his house, and we’d go on Sunday, after a long week, and have a beer. It was a way of life for a couple of years.”

“A bigger-than-life character” is how Nashan remembers his New Orleans mentor. “He had this long ponytail and a really calm demeanor, but this attitude of ‘Let’s get shit done.’ Because that place was a busy, busy restaurant.”

Shannon taught Nashan that part of being a chef is caring about your cooks and their lives.

“He had lots of projects. His projects were all of us.

We were a land of misfits. He was giving a bunch of kids a bunch of opportunity to see his food shine.”

In The New York Times obituary for Shannon, who died in 2001 at age 40, Regina Schrambling wrote, “Mr. Shannon… had a gift for making the richest Creole dishes seem refreshingly New American. His seafood and sausage gumbo was less a murky stew than an artful mélange, with every element sending out a clear message of powerful flavor.”

Nashan’s own cooking today reflects that same spirit of ingredient-driven flavor assertion.

“It should be expected that all the ingredients are top notch,” Nashan says. “It’s not one of those things you do because you want a pat on the back.

You do it because you believe in it.

“We have all these incredible farmers, and I appreciate all of them. You source things out because you want the best of the best. You’re looking for incredible products so you can give it to the customer. And that’s the celebration.”

Chef Josh Galliano shares some coincidental history with Nashan: They both cooked at Commander’s Palace, cooked at Daniel in New York and landed in St. Louis to establish their own culinary voices.

PICTURED TOP LEFT: Chef Kevin Nashan carefully

constructs a dish in the kitchen at Sidney Street Cafe. PICTURED CENTER (LEFT TO RIGHT): The bar and part of the dining room at Sidney Street. PICTURED BOTTOM LEFT: Freshly foraged local mushrooms. PICTURED BOTTOM RIGHT: The lamb Wellington at Sidney Street.

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“He is meticulous with his research,” Galliano says. “If you have a chance to see Sidney Street Cafe over a week, it isn’t just Tuesday doors open and Saturday doors close. They’re in on Monday.

They’re placing their orders, they’re assimilating all the information their purveyors give them and farmers are sending them, and they’re sitting there saying, ‘What do we want to cook this week?’ – looking at the garden and looking over their stash of staple ingredients asking, ‘What haven’t we played with recently?’ – taking all that information on Monday and beginning a game plan.”

Nashan is a restaurant brat: He worked the front of the house when he wasn’t sweeping the floors of La Tertulia, a fine-dining institution in Santa Fe, New Mexico, opened in the early ‘70s by Willie and June Ortiz, Nashan’s grandparents.

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They created a place that would showcase northern New Mexican cuisine long before that was widely celebrated, and they did it with style: a local joint with lace tablecloths.

Their place was wildly popular. Nashan says they would serve 250 lunches each day and close to 450 dinners on a Saturday night. Georgia O’Keeffe ate there. So did the governor. Robert Redford sometimes had trouble getting a table.

tamale? I want that same iced tea and tamale for 40 years because that’s going to pay for your college education.

“I expect everybody to put their best foot forward – to do whatever it costs to make that person happy. Because they’re going to spend two hours of the day with you, and they want to escape. You’re lucky enough that they showed up, so let’s do everything we can to make them want to come back.”

work and a no-nonsense, classic cooking that is consistently excellent.

matrix of interaction easily. Not so for Nashan, who remains a little reluctant to talk about himself.

Liccioni’s single-minded focus on his work in the kitchen seems to be echoed in Nashan’s own hesitancy to attract attention to himself outside of the kitchen.

“I dunno if someone wants to hear me banter all day about stuff.”

There was a time when the matrix for the meeting of diner and chef was the plate and only the plate: That’s where the two met and interacted.

For Nashan, it was the beginning of a career.

“I knew that if I smiled – and I was this pudgy little kid – that I could get tips,” says Nashan, who credits the experience with teaching him people skills. “I got to see how people dealt with stress. No matter how graceful it looks, it’s controlled chaos.

“My family instilled in me that it’s never about a customer – it’s about a customer for life. So, that customer who drinks an iced tea and has one

Kevin Nashan’s other great mentor is the famed Vietnam-born French chef Roland Liccioni. In 1997 Nashan went to northern Chicago and cooked with Liccioni at Le Français, which, among scores of other accolades, was called the best restaurant in the country by Esquire.

Liccioni, notoriously reticent of selfpromotion, has earned a reputation for hard

But the change in restaurant architecture and the advent of social media have broadened the place of meeting between chef and diner.

Customers can now see into many open kitchens and observe the work that used to happen only behind closed kitchen doors. And diners can now expect to follow chefs’ Twitter feeds and explore their thinking about ingredients and dishes and the workings of their kitchens.

Many chefs have taken to this broader

You might even be forgiven if you made the mistake of calling Nashan “shy.” His friend (and longtime neighbor) chef Gerard Craft will set you straight.

“He’s the opposite of a shy guy,” Craft laughs. “He has a huge ability to make friends, wherever he goes. He’s that ‘buddy guy’ – by the end of it you’ll be singing songs at the bar.”

Over the past decade, much has been written about the food scene in St. Louis and the group of chefs working in the city’s fine-dining restaurants.

A point that gets made often is that, amid all the competition, there is a spirit of collaboration here that is rarely seen elsewhere.

And you might wonder how that came to be. The answer may be: Kevin Nashan.

“I think Kevin is the pioneer of St. Louis,” says chef Qui Tran of Mai Lee Restaurant. “I think he

sidney street 78

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PICTURED: Crudo with kombu-cured fluke with sorrell curd, beets and herbs at Sidney Street Cafe. PICTURED RIGHT PAGE: Smoked brisket po’boy sandwich at Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co.

peacemaker

kick-started this whole food revolution.”

Craft adds: “When I first came to town, he was a big brother. He was always cautioning us – wild, out-of-control kids moving in on the block, doing whatever the hell we wanted as far as food goes.

“I think he’s very much like that. He’s very much a big brother influence on a lot of people.”

Tran agrees: “Kevin is the guy everybody loves. It’s because of him that St. Louis is where it’s at.”

And Tran adds an important aspect of how kitchen culture gets transmitted through generations: The people who cook with Nashan tend to be like Nashan.

“They’re basically an extension of him. They’re amazing people. They’re fun. They’re very personable. They resemble him, really.”

Galliano says that the esprit de corps learned in Nashan’s kitchen is being seeded into other kitchens around town and around the country.

“You have all these cooks who have stayed with him for years and years until they say, ‘I’ve learned a lot; where else can I go?’ – and he’s helped them get there.

“He is incredibly nice, but that might come across as a contradiction because he is so good at his standards. It’s the passion to create the food he wants to create, but also to be a part of this career that he’s worked very hard to be a part of.

It is what it means to be a chef.”

Kevin Nashan stands in the pass at Peacemaker, expediting orders to a packed house. He never

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raises his voice. He touches each dish. The team of chefs around him hums like a machine.

Nelson, a young man with a red beard and eyebrows, pulls oysters from their perch on a large bed of ice. One by one, he wraps them in a bar towel in his left hand and pries them open with a stubby shucking knife held in his right.

It takes some muscle. He leans into it, and with a twist of the grey steel, the oysters are transformed from things resembling nothing so much as a pile of rocks to pearlescent little platforms for the perfect, briny bite.

Malpeque. New Brunswick. Wellfleet.

These are cold water haunts where the sea and sunburns have coexisted for centuries and provided people of all classes and circumstances the opportunity to realize the words of e. e. cummings: For whatever we lose(like a you or a me) it’s always ourselves we find in the sea Then something magical happens in Kevin Nashan’s restaurant: The first oyster on the tongue at Peacemaker – landlocked, as it is, on Sidney Street – immediately transports you, body and soul, to the sea and the salt and the spray.

Nashan’s work here is done.

But, of course, his work here is not done.

Spend a night on the line with chef Kevin Nashan at both of his restaurants in the November episode of Feast TV.

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Prairie to Plate Farmer Girl Meats connects small farms with home cooks

Written by Liz Miller Photography by Jennifer Silverberg SHOT ON LOCATION AT mettenburg farm

A few years after graduating college, Leslie Moore found herself standing in front of a grocery store butcher counter in St. Louis, Missouri, puzzled by a sticker that read “85/15.� She called her mom back on their family farm near the small town of Princeton, Kansas, who laughed before explaining that store-bought meat usually labels the lean-tofat percentages on its packaging.

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“I guess you might say I was very naïve,” Moore says. “I didn’t know that beef had fat content… I’d never really looked at a butcher counter. I had a more intimate experience with it before moving to St. Louis, and it was vastly different; it was like night and day. That was probably the first time it clicked in my mind that there can be a difference.”

Moore describes her childhood in Kansas as typical for “a farm kid.” In addition to her parents’ own careers, they also maintained the pastureraised, grass-fed beef and lamb farm that had been passed down in the family for generations.

Moore grew up in the same farmhouse where her great-grandparents had lived and built the family business, Mettenburg Farm.

“Like a lot of farm kids, when I turned 18, I was like, ‘See yah, wouldn’t want to be yah,’” Moore

says. “I went off to college at the University of Kansas, which was really… it was only 45 minutes north, but still such a big difference.”

After graduating with a Bachelor of Science in organismal biology, Moore moved to St. Louis, where she took a research position at Washington University’s medical center. Not long after relocating, she gained her second education at that local grocery store.

“I’d always grown up eating meat from our farm, and I didn’t think too much about it,” Moore says. “Even in college, if there was meat, it was brought up to us [from the family farm]. I grabbed some ground beef [at the grocery store], and the meal I cooked was floating in its own grease…

I actually threw the whole thing away. I had no idea that you could purchase something that was

“a food hub is kind of a trendy term, but it’s this idea of an organization that comes in, aggregates and distributes local foods.”

PICTURED CENTER: Leslie Moore and her father, Al Mettenburg, transfer hay to pasture for the farm’s lambs.

bad for you because ours wasn’t. It was just a really eye-opening experience.”

Building a Business Four years into Moore’s work at Washington University, she decided to switch gears in her career and got an MBA with an emphasis in marketing from the university’s business school.

Soon after, she accepted a position as brand manager for Nestle-Purina in St. Louis, where she worked to bring products to market. Moore loved her work – successfully leveraging products and brands from the conceptual stage to launching and thriving in the marketplace. In the years after moving to St. Louis, Moore also married and started a family, and during her second pregnancy, she decided to take a step back from the stresses and pressures of frequently traveling for work and maintaining an 80-hour work week. A few years

after her second child was born, Moore and her family welcomed a third child, and Moore felt the time was right to return to her career and combine it with her passion for supporting small farms.

She considered applying for brand management positions at companies around town, but her experience in that grocery store all those years ago was still sticking in her brain.

“For years my family and I had been talking about, ‘What if we could bring specifically the grass-fed beef to more people?’” Moore says. “I had this decision to go back to corporate America, which is actually a really safe decision – or we could go on this crazy adventure, with the mission being to get more good meat onto more plates – specifically city plates, because that’s where it’s missing.

“Where I grew up, we never felt shameful about

“We needed to do something that made it easier for people.

That’s where home delivery came in.”

PICTURED TOP RIGHT: Leslie Moore and her mother Roxanne Mettenburg tend to cows on the family farm near Princeton, Kansas.

or disgusted by meat because we know where it comes from. You can feel good about meat; you don’t have to feel disenfranchised, almost – being a city dweller, that was my experience.”

With a connection and kinship to farming and the skill set to brand and bring products to market, Moore took the plunge and launched Farmer Girl Meats in April 2012. Her first big victory happened almost immediately – she submitted her business plan to St. Louis startup supporter Arch Grants and was one of only 20 finalists selected to move on to the final round out of 400 applicants.

“In retrospect it was kind of nutsy because Arch Grants is for tech companies, and I was the only farm-to-table kind of venture in there,” Moore says. “But I was very passionate and ambitious, and I had to write the business plan anyway, so

I figured why not – we didn’t win, but that was instrumental in launching.”

Landing in the final round secured Moore’s company office space in the original T-REX building in Downtown St. Louis, and she got underway with what she calls the “test market year,” spending much of 2012 and 2013 forging the path to get farmfresh meat from small farms to city plates.

Building a Food HuB Growing up on a cattle and sheep farm, Moore already knew where to source her new company’s pasture-raised and grass-fed beef and lamb, but she wanted to offer her customers a full range of sustainable, humanely raised farm-fresh meats, including pork and poultry products. In order to broaden her offering and further fulfill her mission to support small regional farmers, Moore

approached two family friends – Kris and Kevin Roberts, who pasture-raise heritage breed pigs with their teenage son Jake in Kidder, Missouri, and Roseanna Bauman, who farms pasture-raised chickens and turkeys on her family’s farm in Garnett, Kansas. Before she knew it, Moore had begun to organize and manage a regional food hub.

“A food hub is kind of a trendy term, but it’s this idea of an organization that comes in, aggregates and distributes local foods,” Moore says. “We’re one of the few, actually, in the country that is solely meat-focused.”

Moore works with each of her farming partners to sell whole animals or as much of each animal as possible, which means Farmer Girl customers get a range of nose-to-tail products that vary depending on the season and availability.

“Bacon is really popular, but bacon is only one portion of the animal,” Moore says. “We’re going to produce and slaughter to use every part of the animal, not just the underbelly for bacon – we’re not going to butcher pork just because we’re out of bacon; we’re going to wait. It might not make much business sense, but we really try to preserve the high-quality nature and the sustainable animal advocacy. It’s just wasteful.”

With a network of farmers in place that met Moore’s standards for ethical, healthy nose-to-tail production, she undertook what she describes as the company’s biggest obstacle: how best to get fresh products from rural farms to city tables.

“It’s the whole challenge of farm-to-table,” Moore says. “We knew everything about farming and meat and almost everything about processing,

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Moore wanted to find a way to expand distribution outside of St. Louis so her farm-fresh products could reach homes in Lawrence, Kansas, to Jefferson City, Missouri, to Peoria, Illinois, and beyond. Moore’s wish came true in June 2013 with the launch of an online store at farmergirlmeats.com.

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“if you want high-quality food, almost implicitly you’re talking about a craft or artisanal small operation.”

PICTURED LEFT: Leslie Moore with her parents, Al

and Roxanne Mettenburg, on their grass-fed beef and lamb farm near Princeton, Kansas.

and from my [former] job I know a lot about product development and marketing, but what we didn’t know was distribution – how do we actually get it to you, and how do we make the supply chain come together in an efficient manner.”

As a former working parent with a demanding job, Moore wanted to build a distribution model that accommodated busy professionals and families. She considered what she would find as the easiest and most accessible solution to buying farm-fresh products, and landed on home delivery. The company launched a once-a-month home delivery service in September 2012 to a small group of friends and family, which has now grown into once-a-week home deliveries servicing a customer base of approximately 300 people, mostly in the greater St. Louis area.

“We needed to do something that made it easier; that’s where home delivery came in,” Moore says.

“It’s the most direct way we can get from the farm to your table.”

This spring, Moore plans to expand the company’s home delivery service to Kansas City in alignment with the local farmers market schedule.

Deliveries will go out once a week in Kansas City, just as they do in St. Louis. Farmer Girl products are also sold through the Mettenburg Farm booth at the Olathe Farmers Market in Olathe, Kansas.

Desktop to Doorstep These days, Moore divides her time between her home in St. Louis, her business’ headquarters in Warrenton, Missouri – located in a farmhouse that’s been in her husband’s family for more than 100 years – and in northwestern Missouri and eastern Kansas at each of her partner farms.

Because the company has ties throughout the region, Moore wanted to find a way to expand distribution outside of St. Louis so her farm-fresh products could reach homes in Lawrence, Kansas, to Jefferson City, Missouri, to Peoria, Illinois, and beyond. Moore’s wish came true in June 2013 with the launch of an online store at farmergirlmeats. com, where customers can order products that are mailed with two-day ground shipping every Wednesday. Moore is also working with local businesses as pick-up sites – she delivers preordered products to four St. Louis gyms once a week for customers to pick up.

“I think the core and the base of our business

Travel to Mettenburg Farm, where Leslie Moore grew up and where her parents raise grass-fed cattle and sheep on pasture for Farmer Girl Meats, in the November episode of Feast TV. 88

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NOVEMBER 2014

will always be direct-to-consumer,” Moore says.

“If you want high-quality food, almost implicitly you’re talking about a craft or artisanal small operation. [Right now] home deliveries are once a week. I would be fearful to expand to more than three days a week, because maybe that means we’ve gotten to a point where we’re looking for quantity over quality – it’s hard to have both.” the Future oF Farmer Girl As this year’s Thanksgiving holiday approaches, Moore is working closely with Roseanna Bauman to begin taking turkey pre-orders and monitoring online orders, which can either be ordered as small (under 18 pounds) or large (over 18 pounds).

Moore has also begun expanding her producer network with small, local farms she knows and trusts to produce high-quality beef, including one of her parent’s neighbors, Karen Willey.

“Because my family has a reputation for grassfed beef in our area, we’re now seeing our rural community members who want to return to farming, or re-embrace farming, kind of seeking us out and bringing more producers into the [food] hub, which is exciting because it means we are growing the art, the craft,” Moore says.

As the business grows, she’s found that many customers ask questions about the best way to cook with her products – for instance, because her beef is pasture-raised on a diet of Kansas bluestem and native prairie grass, it is a leaner product than what some customers are familiar with cooking. Grass-fed and pasture-raised distinctions also outline specific U.S. Department of Agriculture diet

and confinement rules that some customers might not be familiar with. In an effort to offer customers help and education about how to cook with her products, Moore began sharing cooking articles and tips on her website, which has grown into a library covering everything from how to cook with pasture-raised, grassfed meats to hearty, healthful recipes and ideas for how to cook with her products at home.

“I think part of the human condition is that you want to feel good about something that nourishes you,” Moore says. “This concept of feeling weird or even nervous about something that is meant to nourish the very being of who you are, I think it puts everything out of whack. When things are aligned, when you can comfortably nourish yourself and the people that you love, that’s what it should be, and it’s a great feeling.”

Through Farmer Girl Meats, Moore has fulfilled two of her initial goals: supporting and growing the production of the farmers she works with and sharing a different kind of relationship and connection to meat with customers across the region. As she looks toward the future, those accomplishments remain central to her goals for Farmer Girl Meats.

“My vision for the future of the company can be boiled down into something very simple,” Moore says. “Our mission is to get more good meat onto more plates – so being able to say we’re doing that additively, every year – that means we’re fulfilling everything we set out to do, which is to support the farming community and to give customers clean, healthy, yummy food.”

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NOVEMBER 2014

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helpings

second WRITTEN By Valeria Turturro Klamm

|

PIE AND PIE ShoP PhoTogRAPhy By Aaron Ottis

It sounds like the storyline of a light-hearted comedy: A lawyer working remotely for a southern California law firm decides to open a pie bakery with her mom in a quintessential college town.

“I really was naïve enough to think I would open it, I would be a lawyer, it would be super cute and my life would be like a Nora Ephron movie, and Meg Ryan could play me some day,” says Rebecca Miller, co-owner of Peggy Jean’s Pies in Columbia, Missouri. “In my head I totally felt like The Shop Around the Corner from You’ve Got Mail.”

The bakery, which opened its doors in April 2014 on Buttonwood Drive in Columbia, is a sequel of sorts, reviving what Miller’s mother, Jeanne Plumley, began 20 years ago.

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The original Peggy Jean’s Pies opened in Columbia in March 1994. Friends Peggy Day and Jeanne Wagster (now Plumley) founded the bakery using family recipes. They gained national recognition for large and small pies and became a fixture during holidays and special occasions in homes throughout Columbia for nearly a decade. Then, in 2004, the shop closed its doors as Peggy’s health declined. In the years since, Plumley often thought about reopening the bakery, and in 2013, she started to make it a reality with daughter Rebecca on board.

“We sort of backed into this whole endeavor,” Miller recalls. “It all snowballed and happened so fast. I remember this point when our husbands looked at us and said, ‘Are you really going to do this?’ I think they humored us, and then we did the Kickstarter campaign, and it all got real.”

When Plumley and Miller decided to reopen Peggy Jean’s Pies, neither wanted her husband financially involved with the project. “I think a lot of it is that I raised

Rebecca by myself as a single mom, and I’m fiercely independent and raised her to be that way,” Plumley says.

Kickstarter crossed Miller’s mind, and it felt like the right fit. The mother-daughter team launched a 30-day crowd-funding campaign with the hopes of gaining support from the community. “We said we’re going to do this campaign and raise $10,000 and then make a decision.”

They filmed a short video, wrote a description for the project and went through about a week’s worth of edits with the Kickstarter team. Then, early one Saturday morning in october 2013, when the rest of their families were still in bed, Miller called Plumley, and after a quiet prayer, Miller

The public had spoken: Bring back Peggy Jean’s Pies.

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The quiet creative type and the social butterfly make the perfect balance.

clicked the button to make the campaign live.

“Then I became a freak show because it texts you every time you get a donation,” Miller says.

“For us, if it [were] funded, it meant something; it meant people remembered Peggy Jean’s Pies and appreciated it.”

Days before their campaign cut off on Nov. 4, 2013, Miller was grabbing lunch with a friend when her phone started going off like a Las Vegas slot machine. It was Kickstarter alerting her that her project had just fully funded.

In fewer than the allotted 30 days, they had reached their goal.

“I couldn’t even say anything,” Miller says.

“I called Mom and said, ‘Um, our Kickstarter just fully funded.’”

“We agreed if it didn’t fund, even if it’s $9,950, if it doesn’t fund, it wasn’t meant to be,” Plumley says.

In the end, they even overfunded. The public had spoken: Bring back Peggy Jean’s Pies.

Plumley and Miller selected the location for the bakery, but their hope to be open by Thanksgiving was a long shot. With fewer than four weeks until the crown jewel of pie holidays, Miller says they were hell-bent they would make Thanksgiving pies. At the recommendation of their real estate agent, they rented kitchen space at the local Elks Lodge. They baked 150 to 175 pies that holiday week – a small feat compared to the 2,000 pies they plan to make for this year’s Thanksgiving holiday. Still, for Miller, reality hit hard.

“I don’t think I’ve ever been so physically tired in my life,” she says. “I remember mixing chocolate, crying, thinking, ‘What have we done? Can you give Kickstarter their money back?’ That’s when my Nora Ephron thing started to shatter.”

“I knew what to expect,” Plumley says. “I said you don’t realize how hard it gets.”

“I didn’t know how physical it was,” Miller says. “Now my tolerance has built up.”

In January 2014, after months of negotiations on their leased space, they signed the contract and renovations began at Buttonwood Drive. Meanwhile, Plumley and Miller continued to rent space at the Elks Lodge. Later that month they got their first big pushback into the community when Lucky’s Market opened in Columbia and sought out locally made products to sell in the store. Plumley and Miller delivered pies to Lucky’s almost daily to meet the rising demand that was building from news of Peggy Jean’s Pies’ return.

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On April 17, without a lot of fanfare, Peggy Jean’s celebrated a soft opening at its new home on Buttonwood Drive. It was the Thursday before Easter, so it didn’t take long for word to spread and customers to pre-order their holiday pies.

Inside, the shop design is an open concept with handmade industrial light fixtures and wooden display cases decorating the front. Upon stepping through the front door, the aroma of fresh pie fills the entire space, and Plumley and Miller greet customers – many by name – with a sample of the day’s off-the-board creation.

Peggy Jean’s Pies has at least 14 regular pie flavors and three or more daily varieties sold in 12-inch, 9-inch or the 5-inch pans they refer to as “baby pies.” The shop celebrates Throwback Thursdays by offering its classic meringue topping for longtime customers who prefer it to the whipped topping that comes standard on pies all other days of the week. Chocolate Bourbon Pecan is consistently the most popular flavor, followed by French Silk and Strawberry Rhubarb. Plumley and Miller are always happy to bake any pie on any day of the week for customers who call in orders the day before pickup. Or if you don’t mind waiting in your car, they’ve been known to fulfill urgent requests on the spot.

They would like to ship pies out of town but have yet to find a way that keeps the pie fresh

without having to be frozen – “We refuse to freeze the pies,” Plumley says. In the meantime, they discovered a way to ship a small sampling of pie in 4-ounce jelly jars. Imagine an adorable miniature jar with its very own pie baked inside, complete with a sealed lid and a tiny fork. Wells Fargo recently shipped 27 boxes of jelly jars to its employees throughout the U.S., and brides are increasingly requesting them as wedding favors.

This summer, Peggy Jean’s held monthly pie happy hours at the bakery for 25 to 30 people to sample 15 unlabeled pies and compete to guess each flavor, simultaneously serving as focus groups for the bakery’s newest creations.

Miller and Plumley have also partnered with local craft distillery DogMaster Distillery to hold monthly #pieandbooze events, where attendees learn to make a Peggy Jean’s baby pie and a complementary DogMaster cocktail.

“I don’t ever come up with pies,” Miller says. “I tried a Margarita pie, and it was an epic fail.

Everyone’s like, ‘Is this a piña colada?’ She’s way more creative than I am. She built the light fixture, she built the display unit and she makes all the recipes. She’s over here in her creative world.”

“And you’re in your world, and you never meet a stranger,” Plumley replies.

Those characteristics – the quiet creative type and the social butterfly – make

the perfect balance. Plumley is in the shop by 3am every day, mixing and preparing the dough using her grandmother’s recipe of flour, salt, water and shortening. The exact recipe is something only Plumley and Miller know.

“It took me three years of practicing before I could get it down,” Plumley says.

Miller joins her at 7:45am after dropping her kids off at school. “We have a great system,” Plumley says. “I’m a morning person; I love it. In the afternoons, that’s my low point of the day, and she’s going strong. She does such great customer service. That morning time gives me time to think, plan and bake. She’s all about the social media and customers and knows many of them by name.”

“If someone had told me when I was 20, ‘You’ll be almost 40 and baking pies with your mother,’ I would have said, ‘There’s no way,’” Miller says.

“I have zero regrets. I didn’t think that I would do this every day – I thought I would own it and it would be cute.”

Until this past August, Miller was still working as a lawyer while balancing her role at Peggy Jean’s.

“I went through this whole period of my career where I felt very lost,” Miller says. “I have these moments in here when I’m like: ‘What is that feeling? Oh, that’s happy? That’s weird.’ I’m finally at the point of knowing this is where I was supposed to be; this is why I couldn’t shut up and go with the flow because I wasn’t in the right environment to get what I needed. I wish I could go back and tell my 25-year-old self that.”

When talking about the future, Plumley and Miller aren’t shy dreamers. “I’d like to get to the point where we’re franchising, but without the pies being mass produced at a factory, frozen and put on an 18-wheeler,” Plumley says.

As of September, they’ve started offering chicken pot pie, and they’d like to continue experimenting with other savory pie flavors, plus baby cakes and dough sculpting.

“She needs her own test kitchen where we could leave her alone and let her come up with these amazing creations,” Miller says. “I just keeping thinking about ‘Peggy Jean’s Pies World Pie Domination.’”

Peggy Jean’s Pies World Pie Domination.

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All in FAvor, SAy Pie! The Peggy Jean’s Pies’ pie crust recipe is a family secret. Customers can purchase pressed dough in pans at Peggy Jean’s Pies or use their favorite crust for the following recipes.

ReCIPes By Jeanne Plumley And Rebecca milleR

Gooseberry

Pecan

2¼ 1 2 2

1½ 1½ 5 1½ 1 1½ 1

Yield | 1 9-inch pie |

Yield | 1 9-inch pie |

cups sugar cup flour cups gooseberries (fresh or frozen) 9-inch pie crusts

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, mix sugar and flour and add gooseberries (if using frozen, thaw first). Pour mixture into prepared pie crust. Cover with top crust, flute edges and poke holes in top crust to allow pie to vent heat during baking.

Bake in the oven for 45 to 60 minutes, or until golden brown.

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 425°F. Melt butter and pour over brown sugar in a large bowl; mix well. Crack eggs into a separate bowl and whisk.

Add whisked eggs to the brown sugar and butter; mix well with whisk. Add corn syrup and vanilla and whisk well. Add pecans and whisk well again.

Pour into a prepared and fluted pie crust. Bake in the oven for 15 minutes and then reduce heat to 350°F and bake for 40 minutes.

Apple

Yield | 1 9-inch pie | 1½ ½ 1 1 2 2

tsp butter cups brown sugar eggs cups corn syrup Tbsp vanilla cups chopped pecans 9-inch pie crust

cups sugar cup flour tsp cinnamon tsp nutmeg cups peeled, cored and sliced apples 9-inch pie crusts

Meet the mother-daughter team behind Peggy Jean’s Pies in the November episode of Feast TV.

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. iStock Photo cReditS in oRdeR of aPPeaRance: Cherries

In a large bowl, whisk together sugar, flour, cinnamon and nutmeg. Add in apple slices and mix well. Pour mixture into prepared pie crust. Cover with top crust, flute edges and poke holes in top crust to allow pie to vent heat during baking.

Bake in the oven for 50 minutes to 1 hour, or until golden brown.

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on opening pages by dianazh, pie server by nevodka, pecans by rimglow, stainless steel background by XiFotos, sliced peaches by natikka, whole peach by julichka, cherries above by photomaru. additional Photo cReditS: Measuring spoons and bowl of eggs by Jennifer silverberg.

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ANY WAY YOU SLICE IT, November marks the peak of pie season. With fall in full force and Thanksgiving just a few weeks away, we’re indulging in our fair share of pie. In this spirit, we invited our Instagram followers to share photos of all things pie-related – from fresh ingredients to your baked-at-home pies to the pies you’re buying at your favorite local bakeries – by tagging pie photos with the hashtag #feastgram. For another serving, turn to p. 90, where writer Valeria Turturro Klamm profiles the mother-daughter team behind Peggy Jean’s Pies in Columbia, Missouri, or find a different kind of sweet treat on p. 48, where Pint Size Bakery & Coffee’s Christy Augustin shares her recipe for pumpkin roulade with brown butter glaze.

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| 1 | Rachael adele

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@rachaeladele Birthday celebrations with a little taste of fall.

| 2 | GinGeR and olive @gingerandolive Today we made pies inspired by the challenge put down by @feastmag. | 3 | Stefani pollack @cupcakeproject The flourless chocolate pumpkin pie that you shouldn’t wait until #Thanksgiving to bake.

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| 4 | pie oh my! @pieohmystl Pear apple cranberry will be in the store this week! Come on in and enjoy our fall flavors. #PieOhMy #Fall | 5 | Rita Siobhan @ritabakez Piiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiie! #UpperCrustBakery | 6 | kevin maRSh @kevinmarsh Banana cream pie at Rye Kansas City. @Rye_KC | 7 | kRiSten foRbeS @kristen4bzThis beauty was lucky enough to be a part of my very first apple pie. #Eckerts #FallFavorite #ApplePicking

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| 8 | Shannon WebeR @aperiodictable Picked 25 lbs of apples, made giant batches of applesauce, apple butter and then made this apple pie.

Still have roughly 5,643 apples left, will make another pie.

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| 9 | RuSSell pinG @mugginsping Mini apple pies heading to the oven. | 10 | GuS GuS fun buS @gusgusfunbusYes, that is a pecan pie baked inside a chocolate cake. @SugarFireSmokeHouse #Pie #Cake #Chocolate #PecanPie #STL #BBQ

Want to see your photos in the December issue of Feast?

Next month our focus turns to festive, fresh cocktails, and we want to see what you’re sipping at home, at holiday parties and at your favorite bars and restaurants this season. To submit your photos for consideration, simply include the hashtag #feastgram and tag @feastmag on your Instagram photos beginning Sat., Nov. 1.

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feastmagazine.com

NOVEMBER 2014

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PHOTOgRAPHY COURTESY OF Instagram users

#feastgram

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Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2014

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Fresh IS

Best!

We offer the best in fresh, hormone-free turkeys for a fresh Thanksgiving feast! They have a delicious flavor and will save you time ! no need to thaw!

Choose from our full selection of fresh turkeys and other fresh poultry.

Stop by or call your neighborhood store to order your fresh turkey and schedule a convenient pick-up time starting on Nov. 17th. Order early, quantities are limited.

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Order Your Fresh Turkey Today For Thanksgiving!

feastmagazine.com

NOVEMBER 2014

Š2014 Schnucks