Page 1

a contemporary spin on

buttonwood farm raises

sweet & spicy

THANKSGIVING

HAPPY TURKEYS

FALL COCKTAILS

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

GOBBLE! GOBBLE!

feastSTL.com | NOVEMBER 2013 | FREE


Clayton: 314-721-9400 Chestereld: 636-536-9404

November Wine Dinner Four Courses Hand Paired With Wines $45.00 Per Person First Course

Tuna Conserva

olive oil braised tuna, egg, chive, lemon, caper and potato

Cantina del Taburno Greco del Beneventano, 2012 Second Course

Egg Raviolo

Pumpkin raviolo, sage, aged fontina and brown butter

Vichio-Vaglio Serra “Laudana” Barbera d’Asti Superiore DOC 2009 Third Course

Honey Pork Belly

slow roasted pork, chestnut, butternut squash and rainbow chard

Majnoni Guicciardini Guicciardini Chianti DOCG Riserva, 2009 Fourth Course

Chocolate Semifreddo

bittersweet chocolate, pistachios and orange

Piera Martellozzo Perle di Piera “Silver Pearl”, N/V

Chestereld

Wednesday November 13th Reception at 6:30 16125 Chestereld Parkway West, MO 63017

Clayton

Thursday November 14th Reception at 6:30 www.oceanobistro.com

44 North Brentwood, MO 63105


ST.LOUISRAMS OUIS RAMS VS.

SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 3 AT NOON MILITARY APPRECIATION GAME MILIT FREE POST GAME CONCERT

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FREE POST GAME CONCERT FEATURING BILLY CURRINGTON presented by 93.7 The Bull

SUN, NOV 24

GREEN GAME

SUN, DEC 15

FIRST 15,000 KIDS GET RAMS PLAY60 EYE BLACK STICKERS

SUN, DEC 22

FIRST 15,000 FANS GET A CHRIS LONG FIGURINE presented by Unequal Technologies

Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2013

3


Discover Historic Main Street

&

Columbia Illinois Where you will find hospitality, charm and friendly faces!

Children’s Consignment Shop

Huge Anniversary Sale!

18 Unique Retail Shops & 15 Delicious Wine/Restaurant Locations

Nov. 19th-23rd Nov Enter to win

Nov. 23 (10am-4pm) & Nov. 24 (12-4pm) – Holiday Cruise Dec. 7 – Bright Night Lighted Christmas Parade

during the month of November

Visit ColumbiaIllinois.com for upcoming event details.

FREE PRIZES*! *drawings held Nov. 30, 2013

Fashion Attic

128 S. Main St., Columbia, IL 62236

Fashion Attic 4Kids

103 W. Gundlach St., Columbia, IL 62236

618 281-7467 618 281-7466

DaILy DrINk & FOOD SpeCIaLS

Huge Moving Sale throughout the months of november & December

Tiny’s Pub & Grill

Check out our new website!

602 N. Main St. Columbia, IL 62236

Unique Western Apparel and Decor... Crafted to Last

618-281-9977 Grill Open Sunday-Wednesday 11-8 pm Thursday-Saturday 11-9 pm Pub open til 1 am.

The Patina Pony is proud to present Western inspired clothing, boots, jewelry, accessories and designer home decor from today's top Western Artisans.

SAVE 10%

When you present this ad with your first purchase. Offer expires 11.30.13. Offer not valid on furniture.

Located in the Old Distillary 113 W. Gundlach • Columbia, IL • 618.281.7915 • thepatinapony.com

www.agnesross.com

Like us on Facebook for Sales, Events & Much More! www.facebook.com/ar.agnesross Located in The Old Distillery Center 115 West Gundlach Street

618-281-4327

Shop, Wine, & Dine Guide

Agnes Ross 115 W. Gundlach St. • 618-281-4327 Chateau La Vin 119 S. Main St. • 618-281-8117 Fabulous Finds 315 N. Main St. • 618-281-1954 Fashion Attic 128 S. Main St. • 618-281-7467 Fashion Attic 4 Kids 103 West Gundlach St. • 618- 281-7466 Imo’s Pizza 1450 Evergreen • 618-281-5552 Joe Boccardi's Ristorante 117 S. Main St. • 618-281-6700 Knott So Shabby Furnishings 117 W. Locust • 618-281-6002 Magnolia 208 N. Main St. • 618-281-8083 Memory Lane Gifts & Floral 515-B N. Main St. • 618-281-4538 Merz On Main 210 S. Main St. • 618-281-9901 Ole Tin Roof 207 N. Main St. Suite 104 • 618-719-2017 Our Coffee House Café 125 N. Rapp St. • 618-281-4554 Outdoor Decor 124B S. Main St. • 618-579-8172 Rabbits & Rags 124c S Main St. 618-560-9744 Reifschneider’s Grill & Grape 608 N. Main St. • 618-281-2020 The Patina Pony 113 W. Gundloch • 618-281-7915 Tiny’s Pub & Grill 602 N. Main St. • 618-281-9977 Vida Verde Studio Salon & Boutique 127 N. Main St. • 618-281-6767

Our Coffee House & Cafe Come enjoy Lunch, Finest Gourmet Coffee Dinner or Drinks at our Serving The Homemade • Quiche• Pot Pies • Soups • Chicken Salad Columbia Location! • Pies & Desserts Lunch & Dinner Menu

Offer Expires 11/30/13

with purchase of breakfast or lunch over $5.00

Wine Garden, Great Wines, Specialty Beers & Spirits

Offer Expires 11-30-13

Purchase of $30 or More Offer expires 11/30/13

chateaulavin.com Wine Bar Open: Tues.-Thurs. 2-9pm Fri.-Sat. Noon-10pm • Sun. Noon-5pm

Hours: Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri 6am-4pm Wed 6am-8pm • Sat 7am-4pm • Sun 8am-2pm

www.joeboccardis.com

125 Rapp Street Columbia, IL 62236 ourcoffeehousecafe.com 618-281-4554

• New Menu Items Now Available! • BBQ Every Wed. & Sat. • Large Outdoor Patio • 11 Flat Screen TVs • 12 Beers on Tap, Imported and Specialty Micro Brews • Extensive Wine List • Kitchen Open Late

Merz On Main

Private Parties Available

a purchase of $ 25 or more

(Formally Gruchala’s)

5 OFF

$

618-281-2020

608 North Main St. Columbia, IL 62236 www.grillandgrape.com Daily lunch and dinner specials Black Angus Steaks & Burgers Appetizers • Salads • Sandwhiches • Fish Brick Oven Pizzas • Desserts

4

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NOVEMBER 2013

Serving: Breakfast & Lunch Daily Dinner Wednesday Evening

117 S. Main St., Columbia, IL 62236

618-281-6700

119 South Main Street, Columbia, IL 618.281.8117

Authentic Italian Brick Oven!

FREE

Coffee or Tea $8 OFF

15% OFF First Glass of Wine

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

• Variety of Hot Panini Sandwiches

618-710-0200 700 North State St. Freeburg, IL 62243

12" TWOTOPPING PIZZA

9

$ 95

Must mention coupon when ordering. Only one coupon per purchase. Tax not included. Delivery Additional. Not good with any other offer. EXPIRES 11/30/13

1450 Evergreen (Columbia, IL)

618-281-5552

CARRY-OUT • DINE-IN • DELIVERY OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

offer expires 11/30/13

(618) 281-9901 210 S. Main St. Columbia, IL 62236


Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2013

5


Kitchen looking more like an office? At this rate, you might want both. Home Equity Line of Credit

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%

APR1

Introductory Rate for 6 Months Rate available 09/09/13-11/10/13 Rates are subject to change

Get a great rate on a Home Equity Line of Credit. With rates still at an all-time low, now is the time to make those home improvements you’ve been thinking about. U.S. Bank is offering a Home Equity Line of Credit at a great rate with no closing costs.2 Not to mention potential tax advantages,3 great service and convenient branch locations. Start adding value to your home today.

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1. 1.99% Introductory Annual Percentage Rate (APR) is available on Equiline Home Equity Lines of Credit with a 70% or 80% loan-to-value (LTV) or less, depending upon the market.The introductory interest rate will be fixed at 1.99% during the six month introductory period.A higher introductory rate may apply for an LTV above 70%. Offer is available for new applications submitted from September 9, 2013 to November 10, 2013. Existing customers are eligible with at least a $20,000 increase in balance and commitment amount. After the six month introductory period: the APR is variable and is based upon an index plus a margin. The APR will vary with Prime Rate (the index) as published in the Wall Street Journal. As of September 1, 2013, the variable rate for home equity lines of credit ranged from 3.50% APR to 8.50% APR. Higher rates may apply for a credit limit below $100,000 (depending upon the market), an LTV above 70%, a low credit score and/or not having a U.S. Bank personal Package Checking account. The rate will not vary above 25% APR, or applicable state law, or below 1.99% APR. An annual fee of up to $90 may apply after the first year. Offer is subject to normal credit qualifications and program guidelines. Rates are subject to change without notice. 2. Property insurance is required. 3. Consult your tax advisor regarding the deductibility of interest. Other restrictions may apply. See the Consumer Pricing Information brochure for terms and conditions that apply to U.S. Bank Package Checking accounts. Home Equity Loans and Lines of Credit are offered through U.S. Bank National Association. ©2013 U.S. Bank. All rights reserved. Deposit products are offered through U.S. Bank National Association. Member FDIC.

6

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2013


Our Family to Yours HANDCRAFTED IN WASHINGTON, MISSOURI For five generations, the Frick family has been making smoked meats in Washington, Missouri. We search the country for the best hams that meet our expectations for great flavor, consistency, & customer value. Each ham gets gently cured and slowly smoked over real hickory wood and cured with natural juices for the highest quality. Available at most St. Louis Grocery Retailers

www.frickmeats.com /fricksmeats.com

Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2013

7


Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

NOVEMBER 2013

46

home on the range

from the staff

| 12 |

from the PUBLIsher

Turkey time.

| 14 |

feaststL.com

what’s online this month.

| 18 |

feast faVes

Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in st. louis. coLUmNs

| 30 |

oNe oN oNe

Chef Justin Haifley gets crazy in his new Central west End kitchen.

| 32 |

the mIx

“Poring” over modern Cocktail #2.

| 34 |

oN the sheLf

new and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 36 |

mystery shoPPer

buy it and try it: juniper berries.

| 38 |

how to

making fried chicken with The libertine’s Josh Galliano.

| 40 |

tech schooL

Almond milk ice cream made easy.

| 42 |

culinary canvas 58

76

contemporary

classics

gadget a-go-go

we put five popover pans to the test.

| 44 |

meNU oPtIoNs

fall-perfect berkshire pork chops with stone fruit chutney.

| 90 |

the Last BIte

writer shannon weber pops into sarah’s Cake shop for a sugar- and spice-laced treat.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Of buTTOnwOOd fARm TuRkEYs (P. 46) bY Demond Meek TAblE Of COnTEnTs PHOTOGRAPHY bY

Jennifer Silverberg

8

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2013

bottoms up!

62


Suntrup West County BMW

The BMW 320i It’s A Big Deal.

The Ultimate www.suntrupbmw.com Driving Machine® 636-227-5454

Specific Lease or Finance offers available through BMW Financial Services

Starting at

33,425

$

Professional & caring dentistry

See dealer for details.

Suntrup

Saturday service and parts dept. open 9:00 am to 4:00 pm

WestcountyBMW Home of The Ultimate Driving Machine.

Check us out on facebook at suntrupbmw

636-227-5454

www.suntrupbmw.com Just west of 141 on Manchester Rd. For Illinois Customers: 1-800-962-4244

1126 W. Pearce Blvd., Suite 110, Wentzville, MO Make your appointment today!

636-327-5188 www.wentzvillefamilydentist.com

free Exam • X-Ray • Consultation Limit 2 Per Family. Regular value $99. New Patients Only. Expires 12/3/13.

Find us on Facebook!

Home for the Holidays

cor

De e m o

H

s c i r ab est

FBigg

80 th Anniversary Sale!

Our

ion t c le Se VER! E

Continues

100’s of Fabrics marked down for Pre-Holiday Clearance! Many unique styles of Home Decor Fabrics & Trims!

NOW OPEN SUNDAYS! Noon-5pm

ARTISTIC FABRICS SPECIALIST in Home Decor Fabrics Since 1933

1234 N. Lindbergh • 314-997-2040 Mon. 10AM-7PM Tues.-Fri.10AM-6PM Sat. 10AM-5:30PM Sun. Noon-5PM

www.artisticfabrics.com

Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2013

9


America’s Best Warranty 10 yr/100k power train warranty Whatever you want at the Dean Team the answer is YES! • Lowest prices in town....YES! • Most for your trade...YES! • Loaner cars, car washes & state inspections for life....YES!

Receive $100 Gift caRd fRom annie Gunn’s with any PuRchase.

2014 equus siGnature ture 23

MPG

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Magazine Volume 4

| Issue 11 | November 2013

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor, Print Content Liz Miller Managing Editor, Digital Content Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Allen

Front & Rear Park Assist Premium Leather Heated/Cool Seats Leather Wrapped Dash Sunroof, Premium Floor Mats

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Technology Package Includes Ultimate NAV and Driver Information System FROM Ultra-Premium Leather Seating Front/Rear Park Assist System Cooled Driver Seat & Heated Rear Seats w/ Premium Package

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Feast TV Hannah Radcliff Ed Calvey Contributing Videographers Joshua Cassell, Haley Disterhoff, James Jackson Charles Thomas

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Kelly Klein, 314.340.8562 kklein@stltoday.com Comments publisher@feastSTL.com

Carpeted Floor Mats Cargo Net & Covers Auto Dim Rearview Mirror w/ Homelink x Compass Rear Bumper Protector Active on Demand AWD System w/ AWD Lock

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november 2013

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Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2013 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC


K eep your family and friends safe this holiday season with Davidson’s Safest Choice® Pasteurized Eggs!

SAFE HOMEMADE EGGNOG RECIPE Serves: 20 Ingredients 12 Safest Choice™ Pasteurized Eggs, separated 1 ½ c granulated sugar 1 qt (4 cups) heavy cream 2 c whole milk 2-3 c dark rum, bourbon or brandy (optional) 2 Tbsp vanilla extract (optional) ground nutmeg or cinnamon to taste

Preparation 1. Place egg yolks in large bowl. Beat with electric mixer until combined. 2. Gradually add sugar, beating until mixture is thick and pale yellow. 3. Stir in cream and milk, then rum and vanilla, if desired. 4. Cover and refrigerate until chilled or as long as overnight. Just before serving, beat room temperature egg whites with electric mixer until soft peaks form. 5. Stir egg yolk mixture. Then gently fold in beaten egg whites. Pour eggnog into punch bowl. Sprinkle with nutmeg.

pasteurized = peace of mind All-natural All-natural · F Farm-fresh arm-fresh fl flavor avor · Hormone free free Antibiotic free · Vegetarian-fed

Get recipes at SafeEggs.com/holiday © 2013 National Pasteurized Eggs, Inc.

Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2013

11


puBLiSHEr’S LETTEr

PHOTOGRAPHy By

Jennifer Silverberg

Look for this icon. It tells you which articles are part of Feast TV! Watch Feast TV on the

Watch the upcoming November episode on the Nine Network (Channel 9) at 2pm on Sat., Nov. 2, and 1pm on Mon., Nov. 4. Feast TV will also air on the Nine Create channel periodically throughout the month.

FEAST EVENTS 4 Hands Food Truck Feast Sat., Nov. 2, noon to 5pm; 4 Hands Brewing Co.

Join us for an afternoon of great mobile eats, craft beer, live music and unique vendors.

EarthDance Farmers’ Formal Sat., Nov. 2, 5:30pm; College Hall, Washington University

This farm-inspired celebration will feature local food and drink, a bumper crop of auction items, toe-tappin’ live music and more.

3rd Annual American Cheese Month Sun., Nov. 10, 2 to 5pm at Third Degree Glass Factory, dinner following at Olio tim@cheezsorce.com or 314.435.9194

Meet award-winning cheesemakers, taste 2013 American Cheese Society Best Of winners, watch a live demonstration of mozzarella stretching, enjoy great wine and beer pairings, visit a pop-up cheese market and more. Catherine Neville and Liz Miller whip up marshmallow crème to top Tory Bahn’s sweet potato gratin (p. 88).

S.L.O.B.S. BBQ Tour

On a sunny Monday in October, print managing editor Liz Miller and I rolled up our sleeves

Sun., Nov. 10, noon; Highway 61 Roadhouse slobsbbq.com

and got to work preparing each of the dishes featured in our Contemporary Classics feature (p. 76). The bird we procured

This rotating barbecue competition takes place through November

from Buttonwood Farm, which Liz profiles in Home on the Range (p. 46), was a tom weighing in at almost 27 pounds. The two

at various bars and restaurants in the St. Louis area. In the past three

of us wrestled that enormous bird out of its brine and into the oven and as it roasted, we set to work simmering goat milk

years, S.L.O.B.S. has raised more than $60,000 for various charities.

for caramel, soaking bread cubes for a bread pudding-like stuffing, chopping Brussels sprouts and roasting squash for what would turn out to be one of the best iterations of “pumpkin” pie I’ve ever tried (kudos to Silvia Dadian-Smith for taking top

Turkey-Day Boot Camp

honors for her dessert in the Feast Contemporary Classics recipe contest). All I can say is that I’m very glad I have two ovens.

Tue., Nov. 12, 6:30 to 8pm; Roth Distributing $20, RSVPstl@rothliving.com

By the time art director Lisa Allen and photographer Jennifer Silverberg arrived to capture the results of our culinary

Harvest chef Nicholas Miller will show you how to bring your best

effort, we had poured glasses of Noboleis Vineyard Vignoles and were in the home stretch. After all the beautifully styled

to the Thanksgiving table with a fool-proof way to brine and roast

photos had been taken, we arranged our delicious props buffet style and feasted. Thanksgiving was over a month away, but

a turkey. Plus, he’ll demo the perfect gravy and some unforgettable

the warmth and companionship we shared that evening made it feel like it was already the fourth Thursday in November.

side dishes: quince-cranberry jam, savory bread pudding and melted

Whether you cook our entire Turkey Day menu or just pick a couple of recipes to experiment with, I hope you enjoy digging

Brussels sprouts.

into this Thanksgiving-themed issue. And from the Feast family to yours, we wish you a very happy and very delicious Thanksgiving.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Nov. 20, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $40, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Join Cat in the kitchen and learn how to make Berkshire pork chops

Until next time,

with stone fruit chutney.

FEEDBACk?

catherine@feastSTl.com

Catherine Neville

12

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2013


Give Something FABULOUS This Holiday Gift Idea - Fox Theatre Tickets

Early Gift - See a Show at The Fox

November 15-16

January 3-5

November 19 - December 1

February 19 - March 2

December 5-8

February 7-9

PHOTO OF DANIELLE WADE BY CYLLA VON TIEDEMANN

April 8-20

March 18-30

April 29 - May 11

Show Tickets and Gift Certificates Make Fabulous Gifts!

The Broadway Musical

December 17-29

May 13-18

Fox Theatre • 314-534-1111 • MetroTix.com Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2013

13


OnLInE COnTEnT

feastSTL.com

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

Dine Out

Dine In

Drink

Feast Events

Multimedia

The Magazine

PHOTOGRAPHy By Demond Meek

The Feed

Promotions

SPECIAL GIVEAWAY: Feast TV producer Catherine Neville uses a

gorgeous Emile Henry Citron Oval baker to make turkey tetrazzini in this month’s episode. Thanks to the Chef’s Shoppe, one lucky winner will get one, too! Details at feastSTL.com/promotions.

12:00 / 28:29

CC

MuLTIMEDIA

PHOTOGRAPHy By Demond Meek

FEAST TV: Learn the “don’ts” of Thanksgiving-table staples and how to navigate a grocery-store wine aisle with ease. Plus, meet the folks (and turkeys) behind Buttonwood Farm and an artisan knife maker.

JOBS BOARD: Search culinary industry jobs available in the

St. Louis region as well as restaurant equipment and furnishings for sale, space for rent and more on our all-new Jobs Board.

hungry FOR MORE? PHOTOGRAPHy By J. Pollack Photography

Like FEAST. facebook.com/feastSTL

Follow FEAST. twitter.com/feastmag

Watch our videos. youtube.com/FeastMagazine

Pin with us. pinterest.com/feastmag

OnLInEExclusIvEs

ExTRAS: Get tons more from our feature stories (starting on p. 46), including photos of our Contemporary Classics Recipe Contest judging, cocktail recipes and a recipe for healthier béchamel.

14

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NOVEMBER 2013

Share pics. @feastmag on Instagram


Friends gather and the room ďŹ lls with laughter. Nothing ďŹ ts these moments better than a bottle of Chambourcin. After all, inside each bottle is a story, written by Missouri winemakers for anyone with a little Missouri in their hearts. Learn more about Chambourcin and other varietals at missouriwine.org. Inspired Food Culture

november 2013

15


…your Celeebration Destination

Fall into the

Riverbend

anytime, anyday

dine, shop celebrate

& TEA ROOM Mon-Fri 11a.m.-2p.m. Sat 11a.m.-3p.m.

Josephine’s Ltd.

GIFT SHOP Mon-Fri 11a.m.-4p.m. Sat 11a.m.-3p.m.

Tea Room and Gift Shops 6109 Godfrey Road | Godfrey, Illinois | 618 466 7792

MY JUST DESSERTS

FAMOUS FOR OUR HOMEMADE PIES, ½ LB CHICKEN SALAD AND TOLL HOUSE BROWNIES. 31 E. Broadway -Alton-

618-462-5881 www.myjustdesserts.org

The Hive, is what the buzzzz is all about

GIFT IDEAS

et Popcorn Gourme Retro Candies R Artisan Chocolates esMrrs. Prindabl s Candied Apple zels and Covered Pret

Pralinator Frosted Nut MachineGifts items for the Ultimate Gift giving

100 W. 3

rd

• Corporate Orders • Fundraising • Movie Nights • Gift Baskets

NEWLY REMODELED BOUTIQUE St • Alton IL • 618-363-6700

Ragin Cajun

Piano Bar & Restaurant

u ole Menking Pianos e r C n ju u/Ca erloo ner Menquet room ovl- available in D ll u F n a • me Ba y Room Rent • Aweso t/Part e • Banqu

Wed - Thurs: 5:00 pm - 2:00 am Fri: 5:00 pm - 4:00 am Sat: 12:00 pm - 4:00 am Sun: 12:00 pm - 2:00 am

210 W. 3rd St Alton Il 62002 (618)433-9119 16

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2013

THE GOOD, THE BAD, THE MUDDY Big Muddy Pub

NOVEMBER 27th Blue Skies is performing Prefunk at 7 p.m. Concert begins at 9 p.m. NO COVER!! FAMOUS-Bloody Mary Sundays Build your own, or have the bartender make it

Big Muddy Pub 204 State St- Alton IL 618-463-1095

LIVE MUSIC Have FUN with us!! Live Music, Pinball, Fuseball, pool table and darts.

Mississippi Mud Pottery’s Annual Holiday Open House

F F O % 0 1

November 8th & 9th 10 a.m.-5 p.m, and th e store November 10 12-4 p.m. th in g in th y

ver and more e es custom orders d exclu

- Free ornament with purchase -Register to win free pottery

Beautiful, Handcrafted, American-made products 310 East Broadway Alton, IL • (618) 462-7573 mmp@mississippimudpottery.com Sun-Mon 12 p.m-4 p.m • Tues CLOSED • Wed-Sat 10 a.m.-5 p.m.


cockt cocktAils for the holidAys with chez MArilyn

Try the

November nks Special Dri

Riverbend

ie Pumpkin P Martini, h Coffee, Flaming Iris rbon Spiced Bou Martini

during Fall,

Josh

you’ll like it!

n ay parties id l o h r u o y reserve Angie

JA Acob

119 W W. 3rd St - Alton IL 618-465-8071

Downtown Alton’s Kitchen Gourmet Store Gift Certificates • Gift Baskets • Custom Labeling

SPECIAL ORDERS BEING TAKEN FOR THANKSGIVING last day to submit orders for Thanksgiving is November 23rd

• Flavored Coffee • Loose Teas • Spices & Rubs • Flavored Pastas • Gluten Free • Soups & Dips • Stuffed Olives • Peppers / Salsas • Hot Sauces • Kitchen Gadgets • Grilling Gadgets • MUCH MORE!!

Dinner rolls for Thanksgiving Cookie Trays Cheesecakes Miniatures available call for details ❧ Muffins, pies etc

❧ ❧ ❧ ❧ 212 State Street Alton Il 618-433-9395

ow!

MENTION THIS AD AND GET A FREE COFFEE

5.00 off

$

20.00 Purchase

$

Can not be combined with any other offer. Coupon Must Be Present Offer expires: November 29, 2013

Products now available in Belleville

Tim & Julie Meeks

618-304-3769

sales@oliveoilmarketplace.com (Tue-Fri 11am-5pm / Sat 10am-4pm) 108 w 3rd Street - (Downtown) Alton, IL.

Over 50 Different Flavored Olive Oils & Balsamics

www.oliveoilmarketplace.com

Simplicity Rather Than Sophistication • Primitive Furniture, Tools and Collectibles • We buy Estates (1 piece or all) • Consignments Welcome • Over 4000 sq ft of floor space

Tinner’s Anvil American Handwork 211 Langdon Alton, Il 618-433-1718

• Famous Fried Chicken

• Steaks & Seafood

• Homemade Pasta & Sauces

• Dine-in, Take out, Delivery

• Roman House Salad

• Full Bar & Wine List

First & only locally owned/operated restaurant serving the community for over 75 years! GIFT CARDS AVAILABLE

Booking Holiday Parties Now

618.462.4620 • castellis255.com • 3400 Fosterburg Road • (Off IL 255, Exit 13) • Alton, IL Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2013

17


FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

5809 Highway N, Cottleville, 636.244.2233 stonesoupcottage.com

18

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2013

PHOTOGRAPHy by

you could call the new location of Stone Soup Cottage charming, yes. Rustic, sure. but also elegant and refined. Carl and Nancy McConnell recently moved their incredibly popular restaurant, which offers a singleseating six-course tasting menu Wednesday through Saturday evenings, about a mile up the road to Wiese Farm in Cottleville. The newly constructed restaurant sits where the original Wiese barn once stood. Soaring barn-height ceilings, repurposed wood and elements such as large sliding doors echo the original structure. The new location offers a bit more elbow room, too, with a large patio and a larger kitchen, but the McConnells’ focus on classic fare made with just-picked ingredients (many grown just beyond the patio) and paired with unique wines hasn’t shifted. The beautiful new space allows room for a few more diners, but not many, ensuring that Stone Soup’s guests are treated to an intimate prix fixe dining experience like no other in the St. Louis region. – C.N.

Jennifer Silverberg

stone soup cottage


FEAST FAVES

| where we’re drInkIng

central table food hall

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you’ve likely heard the expression, “you can’t be everything to everyone.” the wine list at Central Table Food Hall in the Central west end defies this truism with wines that are remarkably diverse for food pairing – quite appropriate for its “international gourmet foodhall” style of dining – while appealing to a wide range of wine enthusiasts. How is this possible? the answer is simple: the wines are young, approachable and affordable. young wines have two important implications: they tend to have higher acidity than older wines, as acidity softens with age, and high-acid wines pair well with food, serving as an appealing contrast to fat. Crisp whites such as a spice- and pepper-driven Grüner Veltliner from Austria; a nutty, grassy Cortese from Gavi, italy; and a Santa ynez Valley Sauvignon blanc with fresh melon and herbs are terrific options that stand up to menu items from tuna or salmon sashimi to the smoky creaminess of the bianca pizza’s trio of cheeses. you’ll find mainstream varietals interspersed with lesser known bottles, most of which are priced at less than $38 a bottle. Sip a glass of just about any red while enjoying food from the hearth or grill and you’ll likely find it a fine match with fuller-flavored dishes. Many of the reds at Central table seem to have been selected for their earth-driven and, thus, naturally food-friendly style, since huge fruit-forward profiles can compete even with hearty dishes at a relatively young vintage. Valpolicella from northeast italy, a Syrah from northern rhône or a Sangiovese from tuscany come to mind, though you will find plenty of new-worldstyle options, too, such as an Argentinian Malbec, a Cabernet blend from washington state or a Zinfandel from napa Valley. there is an approachable balance of mainstream varieties and lesser-known wines, each very well selected. it’s refreshing to read a wine list that makes pairing with a diverse menu easy for anyone. 23 S. euclid Ave., Central west end, 314.932.5595 centraltablestl.com

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Inspired Food Culture

november 2013

19


FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

element An element, as it’s defined, is one part of a larger whole. At Element, a team of individual chefs – the restaurant’s elements, if you will – work together to produce a well-edited, collaborative menu. Executive chef brian Hardesty heads the kitchen where the dishes are brainstormed, debated and honed before being added to the menu. Each chef has dishes on the menu, but each dish has been tweaked by others in the kitchen. Pork belly is practically ubiquitous these days, and here the fatty, rich meat is given a sweet-salty spin with French prunes, plums and blue cheese. More unusual is the venison chop with parsnip, radishes and a Concord grape reduction. Plump scallops get a Mexican twist with thick, rich mole sauce, pumpkin and pepitas. Element offers lunch and dinner and guests can choose from a number of warm, modern spaces, including two expansive terraces and an inviting lounge. Creative and comfortable, Element adds another delicious element to the culinary landscape south of Downtown. – C.N.

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Steve Truesdell

1419 Carroll St., Lafayette Square, 314.241.1674 elementstl.com

20

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2013


FEAST FAVES

| FOOD sTuFF

major ‘mallows Marshmallows pop up all over the place this time of year – wedged between chocolate and graham crackers, roasted over campfires, floating in cups of hot cocoa and layered atop holiday casseroles. Inspired by the recipe for homemade marshmallow crème in this month’s Contemporary Classics feature (p. 76), we found three locally made gourmet turns on the classic puffed standard. – L.M.

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november 2013

21


FEAST FAVES

| The big idea

side project brewing PhotograPhy by

J. Pollack Photography

Side Project Brewing, helmed by Perennial artisan ales head brewer Cory King, is unlike any other brewery in St. Louis. the company launched in late 2011 and hosted its first release at Perennial in September. though beer didn’t begin flowing until noon, curious customers began lining up a full day in advance, totaling more than 300 people when doors finally opened. King describes Side Project as a gypsy brewery, or one that operates out of an established brewery to produce beer, with King renting facilities and space from Perennial. “It’s not going to be a brewery like everyone is used to,” King says. “think about how wineries operate: It’s year to year, vintage to vintage. For me, it’s going to be batch to batch. I’m not building a brand. I’m brewing beer.” King says Side Project is an opportunity for him to produce small-batch, 100 percent barrel-fermented and barrel-aged beers using traditional techniques such as open fermentation, spontaneous fermentation and bottle conditioning. Eventually King hopes to build a facility and tasting room, though he has no plans to leave Perennial – hence the name. Side Project’s second release is slated for this month, with four new beers well worth the wait in line. – L.M.

Side Project Brewing owner Cory King standing among barrels of beer at Perennial Artisan Ales, where he rents space and facilities to produce his beers.

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FEAST FAVES

| Shop-o-maTi C

nhb knifeworks The names of some of St. Louis’ most celebrated chefs are scrawled on glass in NHB KnifeWorks, each corresponding to a different set of customknife specifications. This is where owner and craftsman Nate Bonner keeps a running tab of current orders. That the glass exists at all is a testament to how Bonner built and rehabilitated the space at 4155 Beck Ave., where the shop opened in August. Before opening, Bonner and his team renovated the ceiling, painted walls and restored raw materials, including repurposing glass windows as white boards. Nothing inside the shop is an afterthought, least of all the highquality artisan products on display. NHB began selling knives in 2012, likely best known for its stainless, high-carbon and Damascus steel blades with artistic handles made with a wide range of distinctive materials – on one visit, Bonner was excited to show off products containing orchids. Before opening NHB, Bonner worked as a professional chef for many years, a past that shines through in the final products. Of the many impressive tools and toys in Bonner’s workshop, the latest is a forge, which allows him to shape, bend and alter steel as well as layer and heat treat it in the shop. Bonner’s background as a chef also informs how he designs blades, aware of what is required to properly slice and dice food. When the business launched, Bonner introduced three basic shapes as NHB’s house knives. Moving forward, Bonner says he’s expanding that general offering to include more specialized blades. “We’re going to keep those three broad knives as almost entry level, and then we’re going to have knives that are very product-specific,” Bonner says. “We’re always trying to pull from different areas of cutlery, just like areas of cuisine.” – L.M. 4155 Beck Ave., Tower Grove South, 314.776.3800 nhbknifeworks.com

Three Shop STand ouTS aT nhB KnifeWorKS | 1 | The original three knife shapes at

|1|

|2|

|3|

NHB are chef’s knife, paring knife and petty knife. “We tried to design them to be kind of crossover knives,” Bonner says. In addition to his house knives, Bonner is now producing more specialized blades. | 2 | NHB also makes artisan kitchen essentials such as pepper mills, bowls and rolling pins. prototype stage, but Bonner says they will be available this month. | 3 | Bottle stoppers made with natural materials such as flowers and mushrooms are examples of what inspires Bonner’s work. “I’m a super outdoorsy person” Bonner says. “I’m also really color-driven. I love bright colors. We’re thinking about fall knives and doing something with maple leaves.”

24

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NOVEMBER 2013

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FEAST FAVES

| whAT we ’re buying

t-giving takeout

Cooking holiday meals with family and friends can create special memories – but setting off fire alarms, overcooking the turkey or minor kitchen injuries shouldn’t be among them. Thankfully, there are professionals who make it their business to take the guesswork out of completing your holiday table. Whether in need of appetizers, side dishes, desserts, a cooked whole turkey or all of the above, these five local cafés, shops and catering companies are sure to deliver. – L.M.

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| 1 | Dinner rolls, $3.99/dozen; Straub’s, multiple locations, straubs.com | 2 | Sliced turkey breast, $15.99/lb; Straub’s | 3 | Mini pumpkin cheesecake, $6.75; Gourmet To-Go, multiple locations, gourmettogo.com | 4 | Duchess sweet

26

potatoes, $5.99/lb; Straub’s | 5 | Honeyalmond green beans, $8.50/small serving, $27.95/large serving; Art of Entertaining, 8796 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, theaofe.com | 6 | Gourmet wild rice casserole, $16/quart; Gourmet To-Go | 7 | Turkey

gravy, $5.95/quart; Art of Entertaining | 8 | Traditional pecan pie, $24; Winslow’s Home, 7132 Delmar Blvd., University City, winslowshome.com | 9 | Carrot, butternut squash and parsnip vegetable fricassee with thyme-honey seasoning, $38; Winslow’s Home

| 10 | Cornbread dressing with local walnut, apple and ground pork, $11.99/quart; Local Harvest Café and Catering, multiple locations, localharvestcafe.com | 11 | Fresh cranberry and blueberry sauce with orange zest, $8.49/ pint; Local Harvest Café and Catering PHOTOGRAPHy By Jonathan Gayman

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one on one

JustiN HaiflEy

ExEcutiVE cHEf aNd OwNER, tHE taVERN kitcHEN & BaR aNd cuciNa PazzO WRITTEN BY Valeria Turturro Klamm | PHoToGRAPHY BY Jonathan Gayman SHoT oN LoCATIoN AT The Tavern Kitchen & Bar

When chef Justin Haifley’s newest restaurant, Cucina Pazzo, opens in the Central West End this month, there’s one person who might not get the recognition she deserves: Haifley’s grandmother. After all, she’s the one who saw Haifley’s interest in and talent for cooking two decades ago and offered to pay for culinary school. Since then, Haifley’s career has led him to operate restaurants in Florida, Chicago, New York, Hawaii and San Diego. In 2010, when Haifley, a St. Louis native, moved back to the city, local diners were finally able to reap the rewards of all his hard work – and of course, Grandma’s intuition. What brought you back to St. Louis and how have you grown here as a chef? I was working at Roy’s San Diego and got a call from an old high school friend who asked me if I wanted to come back to St. Louis to create the restaurant concept I was developing. [Since then] it’s been more about finding my own style and how to present and prepare food my own way. What inspires your passion in the kitchen? The competition of cooking, and always being viewed by your peers and colleagues. It’s good that we’re opening a new restaurant; it will be fun getting a new group of people in and having the passion it takes to run a restaurant. How will Cucina Pazzo compare with The Tavern Kitchen & Bar? It will be owned by the same group of investors but will be a little more chef-driven. Cucina Pazzo will be more like an Italian gastro bar. We’ve hired a chef [Steven Caravelli] to take over The Tavern. I’ll spend a few months at the new place to get it organized and then split my time between both. Cucina Pazzo means “crazy kitchen” in Italian. Where did the concept come from and what can we expect from the menu? The “crazy” comes from the fact that it will be an open kitchen, so kind of bustling and fun. We’ll make our own pancetta, braise our own pork belly. There will be a section on the menu called “toasts,” little crostini with different toppings. There’s an appetizer of mortadella corn dogs…a twist on Italian gastropub food. What have been your greatest culinary influences? Tru restaurant [in Chicago]. The guy that was running the kitchen at the time was [Graham] Elliot. The group of people I worked with there [were] very competitive, very passionate. If you weren’t a chef, what would you be doing? Maybe food photography or food styling for photography. What do you eat when you’re not working? I never cook at home. I just don’t. Right now I’m riding

Cucina Pazzo 392 N. Euclid Ave. Central West End 314.696.8400 cucinapazzostl.com

my road bike a lot and eating a healthy diet. But if I go out, it’s burgers. In St. Louis, it’s Carl’s Drive-In.

30

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Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Justin Haifley.


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31


the mix

MOdERN COCktail #2

STOrY AND reCIpe BY matt Seiter phOTOgrAphY BY Jonathan Gayman

This drink is an old relic I found in The Savoy Cocktail Book. There is very little history to this drink, but it’s one that teaches you a lesson. Back in 2010, I was a part of a traveling cocktail group called Drink Lab. We hosted themed cocktail nights at various bars around St. Louis. At one particular event, we focused on cocktails from The Savoy Cocktail Book, which we scoured to find drinks with obscure ingredients. We settled on the Modern Cocktail #2 due to the inclusion of sloe gin, and because this drink literally contains all booze. Normally, drinks made entirely with booze are stirred as a rule of thumb in the industry. This drink, however, is supposed to be shaken. Cautious but curious, we sought to find out why. For research purposes we prepared the drink both ways: one shaken and one stirred – and what a difference it made. The lesson here is that a simple method switcheroo can create such an enormous difference in the final product. The stirred version reeked of nothing but absinthe. Not a scant trace of anything else lingered, save a faint smokiness from the scotch. Stirred, this drink is absolutely horrible. When the same ingredients are shaken, though, it becomes a complex, palate-pleasing libation. Tartness from the sloe gin blends beautifully with the malt and smoke of the scotch. The anise flavor of the absinthe mixes with the sweetness of the grenadine, and the bitterness of the orange bitters plays second fiddle on the middle of the tongue, complementing the sloe and scotch. This drink changed the way I approached making drinks. The “rules” of cocktail making that were so firmly planted in my mind turned out to be mere guidelines. Most of the time, I stick with standard protocol, but there are those few instances where experimentation pays off. When I create recipes for home or work, I keep this in mind. I’ll stir and shake a drink – just to see which tastes better. This holiday season, shake this cocktail up and enjoy the earthy, smoky flavors for a warming winter drink.

modern Cocktail #2

The CoCkTail Name Game

Serves | 1 |

I’ve done a plethora of research on classic cocktails. One of the funny

the author of the book you are reading or the bar you are patronizing. No

things I’ve found is the inconsistency of recipes with the same name. As

one is right, no one is wrong. The recipes I write about are no different.

an example, Manhattan recipes volley between equal parts vermouth and

These are recipes I’ve found over years of reading, experimenting and

whiskey to more vermouth than whiskey to more whiskey than vermouth,

drinking. You might find a different recipe with the same name and

with varying measurements for absinthe, triple sec, orange bitters and

you might like it better. I’m always open to new books, approaches and

maraschino liqueur. This leads me to the conclusion that for some of

further research, because, as the Modern Cocktail #2 proves, there are

these classics, there is no correct recipe. It is simply subjective, based on

always exceptions to rules and there is always more to learn.

2 1 1 1

oz Bitter Truth Sloe Gin oz Lismore Single Malt Scotch dash grenadine dash orange bitters (Regans’ or Fee Brothers) 1 dash absinthe

| Preparation | Combine all ingredients in a Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and a consultant at Sanctuaria.

32

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NOVEMBER 2013

Boston shaker. Add ice, shake for 15 seconds and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.


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33


on the shelf

tOp NOVEMBER pICKS

beer

WRITTEN BY Michael Sweeney

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

neW holland BreWing co.’S PilgriM’S dole

Paul giraud Xo cognac

AvAilAble At: The Wine & Cheese Place,

multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace. com; $14.99 (four-pack, 12-oz bottles) PAiring: Barley risotto• Saint-Andre triple crème If you’re looking for a style that’s a bit off the beaten path, try a wheatwine. More than just a hefeweizen on steroids, a wheatwine is brewed with more wheat than an average beer, giving it a satiny, silky mouthfeel. Pilgrim’s Dole features an intoxicatingly sweet aroma reminiscent of your Saturday morning cartoon cereal.

Ska BreWing co.’S ModuS hoPerandi

AvAilAble At: Starrs, 1135 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights, starrs1.com; $79.99 try it: Neat or in a classic Sidecar

Paul Giraud is one of few smaller producers that still has access to the best fruit grown in Cognac, France, within the Grande Champagne region. The Giraud XO is a blend of Cognacs aged for at least 25 years, making it an incredible value. Small, family owned and produced, Grande Champagne Cognacs appear to be dwindling in numbers as larger producers buy up land within the prestigious region. Bottles like this exquisitely smooth, silky and slightly smoky Cognac might have numbered days at low prices. This XO is a must-have for any brandy drinker, featuring the best fruit Cognac has to offer.

Monkey Shoulder Blended Scotch WhiSky ProvenAnce: Scotland (40% abv)

AvAilAble At: Randall’s Wine and Spirits, multiple locations,

AvAilAble At: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, thewineandcheeseplace.com; $28.99 try it: In a Rob Roy or on the rocks

You’ll never stop hearing me sing the praises of canned beer. Cans are impervious to damage from light and are also oxygen-proof, making them the best vessel for beer (especially IPAs). Pop the top on this can and you’ll find citrusy and piney hops that playfully intertwine in a sticky malt body. This beer features a deep amber color along with a bracing bitterness that keeps you coming back for more.

the civil life BreWing co.’S Porter Style: English Porter (6% abv) AvAilAble At: The Civil Life Brewing Co., 3714 Holt Ave., Tower Grove South, thecivillifebrewingcompany.com; $5 (imperial-pint draught) PAiringS: Roast beef on a pretzel bun • Chocolate ice cream

During the winter holidays I try to enjoy the best eats and drinks of the season while also watching my waistline. I love Civil Life Brewing Co. because it makes tasty, full-flavored and low-abv beers – which also means fewer calories. The porter is rich and dark, but never overly bitter, with a luscious, chocolaty aroma. It might sound heavy, but in reality it’s still relatively light in body, which, coincidentally, also helps keep my body lighter. Look for this beer to hit the brewery tasting room in mid-November. NOVEMBER 2013

ProvenAnce: Cognac, France (40% abv)

Style: American IPA (6.8% abv)

shoprandalls.com; $8.99 (six-pack, 12-oz cans) PAiringS: Lamb curry• Hot salami

feastStl.com

WRITTEN BY Chad Michael George

The creator of stlhops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

Style: Wheatwine (11.8% abv)

34

spirits

The blended scotch market has long been dominated by a select few brands, though more blended options are hitting store shelves. Monkey Shoulder’s name comes from a process the malters in whiskey houses used to experience: turning malt over by hand, day after day. This bottle is a blend of three Speyside malts aged in used bourbon casks. On the nose, it has strong floral notes with soft spice and a strong vanilla backbone. On the palate, vanilla is followed by a roasted coffee bean middle and a spicy cinnamon lingering finish.

angel’S envy kentucky Straight BourBon ProvenAnce: Kentucky (43.3% abv) AvAilAble At: Randall’s Wine and Spirits, 10800 Lincoln Trail, Fairview Heights, Ill., shoprandalls.com; $45.99 try it: Neat or in your favorite bourbon cocktail

Lincoln Henderson was a legend in the whiskey world. After serving as master distiller for years with BrownForman, Henderson left to bottle his own bourbon, Angel’s Envy. Angel’s Envy is aged four to six years in new, charred, American oak barrels, then it rests in hand-selected port casks for three to six months. Henderson personally tasted every single barrel of bourbon before blending and bottling it in small batches. The result is an amazingly rich and full-bodied bourbon that finishes smooth and sweet.


wine

WRITTEN BY Kyle Harsha

Kyle Harsha is a certified specialist of wine and certified sommelier with over 20 years’ experience in the food and wine industry. He drinks more wine than he probably ought to.

Muga RIoja 2008 Provenance: La Rioja, Spain available at: Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine, 15860 Fountain Plaza Drive, Ellisville, veritasgateway.com; $25 Pairings: Sautéed sausage and peppers• Manchego cheese• Seared hanger steak

Muga is a reasonably recognizable wine label in local wine shops, yet it’s far from a household name – and that should change. Sure, the winery is a larger-scale facility, but that gives it the resources to produce high-quality wines. This example is a blend of traditional Tempranillo with Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano, and exhibits ripe cherry, leather and coriander flavors with a hint of vanilla. Enjoy a glass with your favorite hearty meal or uncork a bottle for date night on a crisp, cool evening.

LoCatIons I-1 nV Provenance: Italy available at: J. Viviano & Sons, 5139 Shaw Ave., The Hill, shopviviano.com; $18.99 Pairings: Hamburger and mushroom pizza• Cured meats• Baked ziti

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Winemaker Dave Phinney has figured out how to command slavish devotion to his products, which include Orin Swift, Shatter and, now, Locations. For this particular wine, he traveled throughout Italy, sourcing Negroamaro, Nero d’Avola, Barbera and other varietals to blend into a hedonistic offering. It is jam-packed with notes of fresh berries, toast and dried flowers. This is a “drinking wine,” not a “sipping wine,” with a distinctive bottle design.

Fox Run RIesLIng 12 2010 Provenance: Finger Lakes, N.Y. available at: Vom Fass, 7314 Manchester Road,

Maplewood, slmo.vomfassusa.com; $29.99 Pairings: Salad with apples and shaved fennel• Herb goat cheese• Spicy pumpkin soup There’s no documentation to prove that the Pilgrims drank Riesling at the original Thanksgiving feast, but they certainly should have. The wines of Fox Run come from a family-owned dairy farm turned winery near Seneca Lake, N.Y., and exhibit all the notes of flint, apricot and custard that one looks for in delicious offdry Riesling. These small production gems are wonderful for drinking this time of year and could easily age for a number of years in the cellar. Inspired Food Culture

november 2013

35


mystery shopper

MEEt: JuNipER BERRiEs

sTOrY ANd rECIpE BY Shannon Weber phOTOgrAphY BY Jennifer Silverberg

You might not know it, but juniper berries are a perfect spice to experiment with all winter long. Once you’ve tasted them, you’ll find ways to incorporate them into all sorts of meals. What is it?

Juniper berries might look like berries, but they’re actually the mature seed cones of the female juniper. Bluish-black in color, these tiny orbs have the resinous flavor of pine with a bright citrus punch. Juniper berries are used in a variety of ways – from giving gin its signature flavor to serving as a medicinal essential oil – but don't rush out to your backyard juniper bush just yet: The North American variety, although edible, isn’t pungent enough to use as a spice. What do i do With it?

Juniper berries are commonly used in Northern and Eastern European cuisine to add vibrant contrast to otherwise gamey meats such as venison and lamb. Frequently used in turkey brines, juniper berries also add a welcome twist to stew or chili; their piney flavor works nicely with the heavier, smokier notes, and the zest of citrus keeps it interesting. When the first clear snaps of cold weather begin, my heart heads directly to chili. It's a fabulous dish to prepare for a lazy weekend, and serves as a multi-sensory home-warmer. Chili involves very little work but provides a big payoff: A series of ingredients added at different intervals produces a fragrant, soulsatisfying meal you’ll enjoy for days. This recipe is a departure from standard chili, filled with the rich taste of lamb contrasted with earthy kale, sweet potatoes and a heady spice combination. Though lamb shines in this dish, it’s not the only star. The beans, kale and sweet potato also play key roles. If you’d prefer to make a vegetarian version, simply swap ground lamb with another 14.5-oz can of kidney beans and the chicken stock for vegetable stock.

Lamb, Kale and Sweet Potato Chili If you’re worried about going on a spice hunt, fear not: The specialty spices used in this recipe (juniper berries, Vietnamese cinnamon, dried ancho peppers and smoked Spanish-style paprika) can be found at Penzeys Spices in Maplewood. If you’ve never been, go. Penzeys has a rich selection of spices from all over the world. serves | 6 to 8 | 1 1

36

tbsp olive oil lb ground lamb

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2013

1 1 2 1 10 ½ 1½ 1½ pinch 1

sweet yellow onion, diced large sweet potato, peeled, chopped into ¼-inch squares cloves garlic, minced dried ancho pepper, seeds removed, crumbled dried juniper berries, smashed, finely chopped tsp Vietnamese cinnamon tsp smoked Spanish-style paprika tsp ground cumin cayenne pepper 14.5-oz can diced tomatoes

2 1 4 to 6

cups unsalted chicken broth 14.5-oz can dark red kidney beans oz kale, destemmed, torn into pieces sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation | In a large dutch oven over medium heat, add olive oil and lamb. Brown completely, then transfer lamb to a plate lined with a paper towel to drain grease. remove all but one Tbsp of fat, then add onion and

sweet potato, stirring to coat. Continue to heat on medium until onion has softened, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes. Add garlic, ancho pepper, juniper berries and spices, and stir to combine. Cook for 1 minute. Add tomatoes (with juice) and chicken broth, and simmer for 30 minutes. season to taste. Add beans and kale, and simmer for 1 hour or until chili has reduced and thickened. Add salt and pepper as needed.

| To Serve | Ladle into low bowls and serve with thick slices of crusty bread.


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37


how to

MakiNg a SigNatuRE DiSh

WrITTEN BY Brandon Chuang PHOTOGrAPHY BY Jonathan Gayman

way, how that one is brined that way. Later, Cherry Kool-Aid in hand (“There’s nothing better to have with fried chicken than red Kool-Aid”), Galliano goes back into the belly of The Libertine to share how he makes his signature dish. By my estimations, there were approximately 2.3 billion people at All-Star Chicken and Fish last year, Galliano’s pop-up restaurant project that he executed in the lull between the closing of Monarch and the opening of The Libertine. The popularity of his fried chicken speaks for itself, so I’ll leave it at this: It’s good. It’s so good, in fact, that it has started growing its own legend. There’s the story of when Galliano worked at Daniel Boulud’s flagship New York City restaurant, Daniel, and was asked to cook fried chicken. On Valentine’s Day. For P. Diddy. There’s the story of how Galliano decided, on a whim, to make fried chicken at Monarch, which in turn created a frenzy that forced him to put it on the menu. When it was announced that Galliano would be leading the kitchen at The Libertine, owner Nick Luedde fielded questions about the chef’s fried chicken so often that he regularly led-off interviews

The idea of chef-as-celebrity

truly known for something, you must have a lot of

“Fried chicken is the food of the masses,”

with, “Don’t worry, we’ll be finding a place for

is an odd one. When you actually consider

people know and acknowledge that something.

Galliano says. “It’s part of our identity as

Josh’s chicken on the menu.”

what it is a chef does – they make food for you

Americans: you don’t see fried chicken as a

to purchase and consume – it becomes even

Like Thomas Keller and Wolfgang Puck, Josh

dinner table centerpiece in any other culture, but

And then there’s the story of Josh Galliano giving

more absurd. After all, what makes a chef all

Galliano has a signature dish, something known

it’s become a part of our genetic structure. A 10

his recipe away to anyone who wants it. Nearly

that special?

and acknowledged as inextricably tied to the

year old could tell you, in a heartbeat, if they’re

a year ago, Galliano published his famous fried

James Beard semi-finalist. But unlike Keller and

eating good fried chicken.”

chicken recipe in The Okawville Times – not a “lite” version or a home cook’s version, but his

Until fairly recently, chefs were unknowns,

Puck, The Libertine’s executive chef doesn’t use

whispers hidden behind swinging dining-room

expensive ingredients like caviar in his most

This brings us back to Galliano proselytizing

actual recipe. On the surface, it’s deceptively

doors that led to god-only-knows. No one cared

famous dish. Instead, he uses lard – because

about other restaurant’s food while standing

simple – the breading recipe is flour, cornmeal,

about the kitchen, or how their food was made;

Galliano’s leg drop is fried chicken.

in The Libertine. The boxes he brings forth are

Creole seasoning and cornstarch. When asked

filled with fried chicken from some of the area’s

why he would be crazy enough to publish it, his

and they most certainly didn’t care who made it. In today’s culture, chefs such as Thomas Keller

Though The Libertine has been open since May,

best: Winslow’s Home, Farmhaus, Porter’s, King

response was immediate: “Do you want to prep

and Wolfgang Puck have become household

the Clayton eatery still has the feel and energy

Edward’s, Eckert’s, Sweetie Pie’s, Potnar’s. As

for three to four days to make fried chicken?”

names. Both men have earned numerous awards;

of a brand new space. On an evening in early

Galliano begins opening boxes, he offers his

own successful restaurants around the world;

autumn, the restaurant is flooded with people.

reasoning behind the buffet of artery plaque that

To make Josh Galliano’s Signature Fried

and are easily identified by their work – the

And when Galliano comes out from the kitchen,

sits in front of us.

Chicken™, you must first brine the protein in a

oysters and pearls of Keller, and the smoked

everyone turns to see what the celebrated chef

salmon pizza of Puck. In other words, their

is doing. Is he eating something? Did he make

“There are a number of reasons why a specific

soak…followed by a breading process…

signature dishes.

something special for a VIP? A communal look

fried chicken is good and warrants being eaten,”

followed by frying…(preferably in lard)…

of confusion washes over the room as Galliano

Galliano says. “Sometimes the reason may be

followed by a CVap oven afterward to keep it

To say something is “signature” is to take a

makes his way proudly from the kitchen, his

because it’s good and affordable. Other times, it’s

warm. It’s an exhausting process, but Galliano’s

risk. In essence, you’re concentrating every

hands full with takeout boxes of food from

because it’s a source of town pride; an institution

response is almost certainly correct: Everyone

characteristic of that producer and distilling

other restaurants.

that has slowly educated and massaged an entire

wants good fried chicken, but no one wants to

city’s conception of what fried chicken should

take nearly a business week to make it. This is

it into one, singular product. Hulk Hogan’s leg

sweet tea mixture…followed by a buttermilk

drop was signature because it encompassed

To say that Galliano loves fried chicken is an

taste like. It’s amazing the level of fried chicken

an interesting position to be in – fried chicken

everything that was Hulk. What the leg drop did

understatement. Galliano obsesses over fried

diversity we have in St. Louis, and I wanted to

is an everyman’s dish, which is what attracts

for Hogan was representative, in an instant, of

chicken, speaking in reverent tones about its

showcase that.” To be honest, I think that was just

all of us – Galliano included – to it. But to have

exactly what the man stood for: a leg drop is

history and cultural significance. He speaks

Galliano-speak for, “I want an excuse to eat a lot

really good fried chicken takes time, effort and

honest, simple and effective (not counting the

of The Great Migration and The Chicken Bone

of fried chicken.”

skill. And while anyone might technically be able

WCW NWO years, obviously).

Express, a train that earned this nickname due

to make Galliano’s signature dish, neither of us

to the bones that lined the track’s path from

We fulfill what I perceive to be Galliano’s wish,

wants the responsibility – we’d rather visit The

But what makes something signature? Certainly

New Orleans to Chicago – discarded remnants

and eat a lot of fried chicken. Through it all, he

Libertine and have it placed in front of us on

the creator can’t knight something of theirs as

of chicken dinners that poor families packed and

explains the subtle and not-so-subtle differences

a platter. This is what makes it special. This is

signature. To have something be signature, to be

brought aboard for the trip north.

between the birds. How this one is breaded this

what makes it signature.

38

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2013


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NOVEMBER 2013

39


tech school

DaiRY-FREE alMOND-BaNaNa icE cREaM

Story and recipe by Cassy Vires photography by Jennifer Silverberg

My restaurant Home Wine Kitchen, much to my surprise, has become known in St. Louis as a safe haven for those with special lifestyle and dietary restrictions. I would like to think this has a lot to do with the fact that we make almost everything in house, so we know exactly what is in our food, but I think it is more than that. I have my own personal dietary needs and allergies, so I take these concerns seriously. I don’t think having a dietary restriction should mean that delicious food is out of your reach. Recently, a guest requested an all-vegan tasting menu at Home Wine Kitchen and I wanted to knock their socks off. For that reason, we decided to make dairy-free milk, and it was amazing. I have been drinking commercial almond milk for years, and I was blown away by the depth of flavor and the creaminess of homemade, dairyfree milk. In addition to almonds, foods such as cashews, soybeans, rice and hemp seeds can be used to make dairy-free milk. Making almond milk at home is incredibly simple. In fact, almond milk is so easy to make I no longer understand purchasing it. It does take a few days to prepare, the yield is small and the shelf life is relatively short, but I still see the benefit of making it at home. Almonds are high in nutrients such as vitamin E, iron and even calcium. To make almond milk, simply soak almonds in water for two days and then strain them, puree them in a blender with water until the consistency is smooth and strain the mixture through cheesecloth. The result is almond milk. You can sweeten it, if desired, with agave nectar or honey. Leftover almond bits can then be dried and used as filler for muffins, cakes or granola. Aside from sipping a cold glass of almond milk, it can be used to enhance recipes just as dairy milk does. For the Thanksgiving holiday, try using homemade almond milk as a substitute in casserole dishes and mashed potatoes or in dessert recipes. Homemade almond milk ice cream also makes a nice pie-topping alternative. My personal favorite almond milk frozen dessert is almond-banana flavored ice cream. For the all-vegan tasting menu at the restaurant, we simply drizzled

Almond Milk This basic recipe for almond milk can be used as a dairy milk substitute in sweet and savory recipes. It also forms the base for the almond milk ice cream recipe that follows. Yield | 2 cups | 1 2

cup raw almonds cups water, plus more for soaking honey or agave nectar

unsweetened almond milk over absintheand orange-braised fennel with vanilla bean. Jess Paddock, pastry chef at Home Wine Kitchen and Table, helped me devise this incredible almond milk ice cream recipe, which left our guests very pleased. Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen and Table.

40

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NOVEMBER 2013

| Preparation | Place almonds in a bowl and cover completely with water. Let almonds soak uncovered for two days. Strain almonds out of soaking liquid and rinse well. Place soaked almonds and 2 cups water in a blender. Blend on high until the water turns white and the almonds are broken down into fine pieces.

Set a colander lined with cheesecloth over a bowl. Place pureed mixture in the colander, and press almonds until all of the liquid has been released. Remove cheesecloth from colander with almond solids inside and twist it into a ball, squeezing solids to remove as much liquid as possible. Sweeten to taste with honey or agave nectar. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to two days.

Almond-Banana Ice Cream This recipe for dairy-free almond milk ice cream is simple to prepare and offers an alternative for diners with special lifestyle or dietary needs – or simply folks with a sweet tooth for tasty desserts.

Yield | 1 quart | 3 1 ½

frozen bananas, chopped cup almond milk (recipe above) cup simple syrup, cooled*

| Preparation | In the bowl of a food processor, combine the frozen bananas, almond milk and simple syrup. Puree until smooth and creamy. Place mixture into a sealable plastic container and freeze until set, at least 6 hours. Serve with sliced bananas, melted chocolate or toasted almonds. *Simple syrup is equal parts water and sugar, boiled until the sugar dissolves.


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Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2013

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gadget a-go-go

pOpOVER paNs

NordiC Ware 12-Cup peTiTe popover paN PROS

The prettiest pan tested by far, this light-colored, heavy cast-aluminum pan produced mini-popovers that looked a little like a tiny chef’s toque when they first came out of the pan. Bite-sized is often right-sized for higher-fat treats like these, a definite plus. This sturdy, high-quality pan merits consideration.

ChiCago MeTaLLiC NoN-STiCk 12-Cup MiNi-popover paN

CeraMiC raMekiNS aNd pyrex CuSTard CupS

ChiCago MeTaLLiC NoN-STiCk 6-Cup popover paN

ChiCago MeTaLLiC NoN-STiCk 12-Cup MuffiN paN

PROS

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PROS

PROS

The popovers from this pan fit the just-right category. Not too big, not too small, the resulting popovers fit in-hand and satisfied appetites. Pulling out 12 at a time is plenty sweet, too, when you’ve got a crowd for dinner.

With a ramekin and a recipe, you can whisk up a single serving of two or three popovers and indulge. The recipe from The Pleasures of Cooking for One by Judith Jones worked beautifully. The smaller cups bake faster; the largest cup produced a dinner-sized popover.

Lofty, delicate popovers with cavernous nooks for jelly or lemon curd, these treats seemed to swirl as they rose. At the top of the dome, an oculus in each made an interesting pattern. Mammoth in size but light in texture, the flavor of eggs dominated, with buttery goodness a close second.

This nicely finished non-stick muffin pan does double-duty for muffins and shorter, squat popovers just as tasty as their vertically enhanced cousins. Great for minimalists and for storagechallenged cooks.

CONS

CONS

Stop short of buying this pan if only tall and eggy popovers are desired.

You end up with fewer popovers and heat up the whole kitchen for a solitary indulgence. Wait. Is that so wrong?

Their humongous size could be a pro or a con. You decide.

$12.99; Bed Bath & Beyond

CONS

CONS

This 12-cup pan tended to bake unevenly in the first test, with the interior popovers a little underdone and the outside ones browned beautifully. The underdone ones collapsed just after they came out of the oven. A second test with a longer bake time and a reflective tray placed above, on the top rack of the oven, produced a more evenly finished batch that held shape.

WrITTeN BY pat eby PhoToGrAPhY BY Jonathan gayman

See cons for 12-cup Nordic Ware Petite Popover Pan (left). Same problem. Same solution. $23; Sur La Table, 295 Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com

$19.95; Williams-Sonoma, 260 Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, williamssonoma.com

Ramekins: $2.50 each (3-oz) and $2.95 each (4-oz); Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, kitchenconservatory.com

$19.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, cornucopia-kitchen. com

Anchor Hocking Custard Cups: $4.99/4-piece set, 6-oz each; Bed Bath & Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com

WhaT To Look for : PeRfeCt PaN. If you’re passionate about popovers, invest in one or two sizes of real popover pans. They’re designed with beaucoup space around the individual cups to produce crisp, evenly browned walls and popover tops that pop-a-plenty. Muffin tins, ramekins and custard cups produce short, fat popovers that deliver eggy goodness, but lack the star-power of one baked in its namesake pan. Size. Petite pops, just-right bites or grand treats, there’s a popover pan

small enough for appetizers and big enough for the heartiest eater. Muffin tins, sized mini to jumbo, allow ample size variation as well. Ditto for ramekins and custard cups.

42

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2013

CONS

ShaPeS. The cups in popover pans stand one-third taller than the wells of muffin tins or custard cups, producing a bigger baked treat. Tall ramekins are available, too. Cups or wells might be cylindrically shaped or flare out like flowerpots. Popovers baked in flared cups seemed to rise higher. Both shapes produced impressive balloon tops. CONStRuCtiON. Look for vents and an open construction design in popover pans. When the hot air of the oven flows over, under and around the baking wells without obstruction, the walls bake more solidly and tops stay aloft longer.

Che

Ck o pag ut e

Once the oven is fired up 76! to bake batches of popovers, try your hand at making some of the recipes in this year’s Thanksgiving dinner feature.


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Mon 10-8 • Tue-Thur 11-7 • Fri 10-8 • Sat 10-6 • Sun 12-6 Inspired Food Culture

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43


menu options

BERkShiRE PORk ChOPS with StONE FRuit ChutNEy

Stone fruit describes any fruit with a single stone or pit in the center. From cherries to plums, there are a plethora of varieties, many perfect for eating raw or for spicing up classic recipes. Here, stone fruits are combined in a hearty chutney, served over tender Berkshire pork chops.

StorY anD recipe BY Lucy Schwetye pHotograpHY BY Jennifer Silverberg

this recipe also calls for cherums, a hybrid fruit made with cherries and plums, and Berkshire pork, a heritage breed of pig prized for its marbling, flavor, juiciness and fat content. in this dish, the sweetness of the stone fruit chutney accents the rich, savory pork.

Berkshire pork chops with Stone fruit chutney Serves | 6 to 10 |

3 2

pork Chops

6 1 1½ 1 2 1½

bone-in Berkshire pork chops tbsp kosher salt tsp freshly ground black pepper tsp garlic powder tbsp grapeseed oil tbsp unsalted butter

ChUtney

1 to 2 2 3 to 4 2 to 3

tbsp grapeseed oil tbsp unsalted butter large shallots, minced dark plums, pitted and diced medium

2 1 ¼ 2 to 4 1 1

cherums, pitted and diced cups fresh or frozen cherries, pitted and diced medium cups fresh or frozen cranberries 5-oz bag dried cherries cup red wine tbsp dark balsamic vinegar tbsp sugar, additional if needed tsp fresh thyme, chopped kosher salt freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation – Pork Chops | Season pork chops with salt, pepper and garlic powder on all sides and set aside. in a large cast-iron pan,

heat oil until simmering. add butter, then pork chops into the pan and cook on the first side for 4 minutes; flip and cook on the second side for 3 minutes. if the bone isn’t immersed in the fat, it will look raw, so while the pork is cooking, use a spoon to baste the hot butter and oil over the bone. remove pork from the pan and place on a tray and tent with foil. allow to rest for about 5 to 10 minutes so that the juices can redistribute. enjoy topped with warm chutney (recipe below).

chopped stone fruits, cranberries and dried cherries and cook until softened but still slightly firm. turn heat to medium-low, and slowly add wine, vinegar and half of the sugar and continue to cook until the flavors have developed and the liquid becomes syrupy. add thyme, salt, pepper and remaining sugar to taste.

JOIN US!

| Preparation – Chutney | in a large pot over

RSVP:

medium heat, heat grapeseed oil and butter. once the butter is bubbling and foamy, add shallots and sauté until translucent. add

schnuckscooks.com 314.909.1704

m a k e Th e m ea

chef’S TipS :

Lighten Up. You can change the profile of this chutney by replacing

First thaw. When cooking with frozen fruit, thaw it first, as it tends

some of the dark stone fruits with lighter ones such as apricots to have a lot of excess water that is released as it thaws. Drain and peaches, and subbing white wine and lighter vinegar for the red liquid before adding frozen fruit to chutney to avoid watering it wine and dark vinegar. down and creating an unpleasant, mushy texture.

○ ○ ○

L: Shaved Brussels Spro

ut Salad

Berkshire Pork Chop

Stone Fruit Chutney

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Braised Swiss chard Maple-glazed Buttern ut Squash caramelized apple ice cream

Le a r n m Or e:

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get hands-on: Join Feast and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., nov. 20, at 6 p.m. to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com. 44

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NOVEMBER 2013


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home on the range WriTTen by Liz Miller

|

PHOTOGraPHy by Demond Meek

every tuesday morning matt tiefenbrun, owner of buttonwood farm, hops in his large delivery truck to make the three-hour drive from his farm in California, Mo., to St. Louis to deliver his pasture-raised chickens and turkeys to local shops and restaurants. His weekly route includes an impressive list of clientele, ranging from grocery stores such as Local Harvest Grocery and Straub’s to restaurants Farmhaus, Winslow’s Home, SqWires, Local Harvest Café and Catering and Cardwell’s at the Plaza. On a warm Tuesday afternoon in early September, his route also includes a stop at his parents’ sunny two-story home in Shrewsbury, where we meet to talk turkeys.


these birds look good, they taste good, they’re not flabby birds. they’re like little stocky bodybuilders.

Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2013

47


But before we can really get into it, his cell phone rings. Scratch that. It gobbles.

i was always pumped about agriculture.

“I have no clue how that ended up as my ringtone,” Tiefenbrun says with a laugh. This is the first of many almost too-whimsical – yet thoroughly genuine – details I learn about Tiefenbrun. When we do finally get down to talking about the broad-breasted white turkeys he raises on pasture, his face lights up. “I’m so proud of these turkeys,” he says. “These birds look good, they taste good; they’re not flabby birds. They’re like little stocky bodybuilders. And they’re so darn fresh. I process my [birds] on Monday; they get to the consumer on Tuesday.” Currently in its fourth season, Buttonwood is a young farm that has experienced impressive growth and success in just a few short years. The same can be said of Tiefenbrun, who opened Buttonwood in 2010 at age 23. On his parents’ front porch just off of Lansdowne Avenue, he tells me that in spite of his suburban St. Louis upbringing, he always felt a calling to farm. “I was always pumped about agriculture,” he says. “As a kid, I had the farm board and the little tractors and stuff. In eighth grade I got a feeder steer – a calf – and I raised it at my aunt and uncle’s house in Crystal City. I raised it, processed it and sold it. Most kids, when they were going out to get their driving permit, wanted a new car. I thought it would be cool to have a cow and an old truck. I had a small, all black calf – we called him Snowball – and a 1952 Chevy pick-up and I was in heaven.”

TOP OF PAGE: Tiefenbrun has modified this old tractor, like much of the farming equipment at Buttonwood, to make it work for the farm’s needs. ABOVE: Tiefenbrun finishing farm chores.

By Tiefenbrun’s sophomore year at Webster Groves High School he was spending his free time working at Blue Creek Farm, an organic produce farm in Hillsboro. As he describes it, he began working there for the experience, but stuck around to get the attention of one of the farmer’s daughters, Eleanor Krautmann. Tiefenbrun and Krautmann began dating in high school, and after graduating in 2005, he went to the University of Missouri to study general agriculture and Krautmann went to nearby Stephens College to study graphic design. By spring 2009, Tiefenbrun and Krautmann had both graduated from college, and in September 2010 they were married. That same year, the couple came across 120 acres of inexpensive land in California, Mo., and Tiefenbrun decided to take the plunge and buy land to build a farm. That land just so happened to be dotted with Sycamore trees – also known as buttonwoods. With enough acreage and the right name, graphic designer Eleanor created a cheery logo and Buttonwood Farm was in business. “It wasn’t like I had all this money,” Tiefenbrun says. “I didn’t have any money. It was just ‘Boom, we have to make this work.’ And you just sort of have to. I like being my own boss. Having your own farm is pretty nice. I’m not making millions of dollars, but it’s going to a good place.” In addition to designing the farm’s logo, Eleanor maintains Buttonwood’s website, blog and social media accounts. She also helps with day-to-day work on the farm, but credits her husband’s drive and resourcefulness with Buttonwood’s success.


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49


“One of the things that has made what we’re doing here possible is that Matt is super handy,” she says. “He’s gotten antique [farming equipment] and retrofitted it such that it works for our little operation. He gets antiques, not because they’re quaint, but because it’s what we can afford. What we’re doing is sort of the way [farming] was done before.” Initially, Tiefenbrun planned to raise cattle and chickens, but recognized that the glut of regional farmers producing beef would make it harder to stand out in the marketplace. Fewer Missouri farmers were raising chickens on pasture and selling year-round. And even fewer farmers were pasture-raising turkeys. At Buttonwood Farm, baby turkeys live inside a barn for the first eight weeks of life to brood. After eight weeks, turkeys that are fully feathered are let out on range to roam and graze. Once on range, Tiefenbrun’s turkeys still have access to shelter for protection against the elements and predators. “Turkeys on range are fun,” Tiefenbrun says. “It’s like a cow. They will eat every bit of grass and they’ll eat all the bugs. You keep giving them more pasture and they eat it up. They’ll walk to the other side of the field, flap their wings and chase me. This is the real deal. And you feel good about eating it.” During the farm’s first season, Tiefenbrun raised 400 chickens. The second year, the run increased to 4,000, then production jumped to 7,000. The projected run of chickens this year is 12,000 birds.

Numbers for turkeys are similarly staggering, growing from a first-year season of 75 birds in 2010 to an estimated 2,000 in 2013. When asked about Buttonwood’s rapid growth, Tiefenbrun praises his current processor, Shady Maple Farm, owned and operated by a Mennonite family located just eight miles from his farm. “I can’t say enough about them,” he says. “If they weren’t there I’d never be where I’m at now. I’ve been able to keep expanding. Most everybody drives two or three hours to get to their processing plant. Your proximity to a processing plant is huge. I’m very lucky.”

fewer missouri farmers were raising chickens on pasture and selling year-round.

In 2010 and 2011, when Tiefenbrun first opened Buttonwood, he had to drive an hour away from his farm to have his birds processed with a state inspector on-site. Two years ago, tired of making the trek and losing so much time at the farm, Tiefenbrun approached the owner of Shady Maple Farm, which, at the time, processed farm animals for custom – not commercial – sale. Tiefenbrun asked the owner if he would consider undergoing state inspection in order to process Buttonwood’s poultry and the owner agreed. Tiefenbrun says the partnership has allowed him not only to expand his business and distribution in St. Louis, but further grow and support the community in California, Mo. A few weeks after meeting at his parents’ home in Shrewsbury, I make the three-hour drive from St. Louis to visit the Tiefenbruns at Buttonwood Farm. The drive is a scenic jaunt through mostly rural Missouri; flat land undulating into rolling

TOP RIGHT: At Buttonwood, baby chicks spend their first few weeks in a brooder barn until they’re fully feathered; then, they go out on range. ABOVE: Tiefenbrun with one of the 12,000 chickens raised on the farm this season.


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hills that break on the horizon. Not long after passing through Jefferson City, I make a left turn off of U.S. Highway 50 onto the gravel road that leads to Buttonwood. Small farms stagger either side of the bumpy road, with sheep, cattle, horses and other livestock dotting the landscape. Tiefenbrun says much of this farm land – including his own property – played home to free-range poultry farms some 40 years ago. Today, Tiefenbrun seeks out discarded farming equipment used on former free-range farms in the region, buying old equipment for scrap metal prices. The feeders he uses are holdovers from the ‘60s and ‘70s, used to feed poultry on pasture before the rise of industrial farming. Watching turkeys wander and explore the fields of Buttonwood Farm, it’s difficult to imagine birds living any other way. As we walk through the turkey pasture the energy completely changes. Minutes before, turkeys that seemed independent begin to funnel into one herd, following our every move, emitting a piercing call that sounds like a shorter, more frenzied seagull squawk. The males, or toms, puff up like majestic clouds, while the faces and impressive snoods of both male and female turkeys flush from dull maroon to bright crimson, speckled with flecks of blue. The turkeys are very aware of our presence; their heads bobbing and pecking with piqued curiosity. “As they get older they’ll get more colorful,” Tiefenbrun says. “They get brighter red and brighter blue; they change colors with the moods they’re in. We had a little chick get out a few days ago, running through the turkeys. They were so

scared. The turkeys’ faces were different colors because they didn’t know what was going on.” Though amusing, the renegade chick from days earlier illustrates a very real facet of the work and attention required on a free-range farm: Had Tiefenbrun or Eleanor not been there to remove the chick and calm the turkeys, the birds might have piled up on one another out of fear and died. With the exception of Tuesday deliveries and processing days at Shady Maple Farm, Tiefenbrun says it’s crucial that he’s always at the farm. “Turkeys are finicky,” he says. “A chick, you could probably set out on the porch and it would survive. A turkey, you could have everything perfect and it would probably die. They’re difficult to brood, they’re very finicky with temperature, their diets have to be just perfect. They’ll flip over by accident, and if they’re on their backs for more than two hours their brains are kind of kaput. You have to go out there every hour or two and check on them, flip them over. You kind of have to be there. I kind of always want to be there. It feels good when you have this healthy, nice bird.” Turkeys raised at Buttonwood for this year’s Thanksgiving holiday have been on pasture since July 15. They will be processed and delivered to St. Louis just days before Thanksgiving – Tiefenbrun estimates processing will happen the Friday, Saturday, Monday and Tuesday before November 28 – putting them at 18 weeks old. Tiefenbrun estimates that his turkeys will range in weight from 17 to 24 pounds, with females averaging 17 to 18 pounds and males 22 to 24 pounds.

watching turkeys wander the fields of buttonwood farm, it’s difficult to imagine birds living any other way.

TOP LEFT: Tiefenbrun tending to chickens in one of several barns on the property. ABOVE: Matt and Eleanor Tiefenbrun (and furry friend Berry) walking through the turkey pasture to check on their birds.


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i’m doing what i’m doing because i like the end product.

As production demands increase, Tiefenbrun has also been able to add more facilities to the farm, with construction completed in October on a new packing building that includes a walk-in freezer and loading dock. In addition to building the business, the Tiefenbruns have also made significant progress renovating their home with the help of family. Tiefenbrun praises his family, especially parents Mike and Kelly, for helping make his farm a success.

After the Thanksgiving holiday, Buttonwood will continue producing ground turkey and turkey breasts, as well as whole chickens, chicken parts and chicken breasts throughout the winter, just as it has for the past few years. When asked what’s in store for Buttonwood, Tiefenbrun contentedly shrugs; after all, he couldn’t predict where farming would take him three years ago. What he knows for sure is that he wants to keep selling high-quality products he’s proud to put his name on.

“When I first got that little calf at my aunt and uncle’s house, they drove me there all the time,” he says. “We have a freezer at my parents’ house and if somebody needs something in the middle of the week, my parents deliver it. They get me out of binds. My dad was kind of my salesman in the beginning. He would go around and give samples to everybody.”

“I’m doing what I’m doing because I like the end product,” he says. “I like the turkey and chicken we’re producing. I like the look on the chef’s face when you show up with something new – or even the chicken I’ve been bringing him for three years – and he says ‘That’s the best chicken I’ve ever had.’ That just keeps me going.”

where to try, where to buy local restaurants

BC’s Kitchen, 1 Meadows Circle Dr., Lake St. Louis, billcardwell.com ○ Big Sky Café, 47 South Old Orchard, Webster Groves, bigskycafe.net ○ Cardwell’s at the Plaza, 94 Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, billcardwell. com ○ Local Harvest Café and Catering, multiple locations, localharvestgrocery.com ○ Farmhaus Restaurant, 3257 Ivanhoe Ave., Lindenwood Park, farmhausrestaurant.com ○ Onesto Pizza & Trattoria, 5401 Finkman St., Princeton Heights, onestopizza.com

○ SqWires Restaurant, 1415 S. 18th St.,

Lafayette Square, sqwires.com ○ Winslow’s Home, 7213 Delmar Blvd., University City, winslowshome.com

local stores

Greene’s Country Store and Feed, 8621 Hwy. N, Lake St. Louis, greenescountrystore.com ○ Local Harvest Grocery, multiple locations, localharvestgrocery.com ○ Straub’s, multiple locations, straubs.com ○ Fair Shares CCSA, fairshares.org TOP OF PAGE: TheTiefenbruns are remodeling their home with help from family, including a new front porch. ABOVE: Turkey faces and snoods change in color based on mood and age.

54

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2013


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NOVEMBER 2013

57


culinary canvas WRITTen By Shannon Cothran

|

ReCIpeS By Chris Desens

|

pHoTogRApHy By Jennifer Silverberg

“Basic béchamel can be delicious on its own but lacks significant flavor, which is its beauty: It allows other remaining ingredients to speak their language.” – Chris Desens

Béchamel

, one of the five French mother sauces, is the original white sauce made with roux – a mixture of wheat flour and butter – combined with milk. It is a kitchen staple, yet chef Chris Desens, program director of The Culinary Institute of St. Louis at Hickey College, says he doesn’t see the word “béchamel” on restaurant menus very often. It almost always appears on menus in the form of other sauces that begin as béchamel and become something else. For example, a few months ago Desens noticed that Harvest in Richmond Heights was offering fennel soubise with its nightly fish special. Soubise is nothing more than béchamel with onions, so the béchamel was there: It was just disguised as another sauce. “Soubise or cream sauces are more likely to grace a menu than béchamel,” Desens says. “But béchamel is the workhorse sauce, the base for the soubises, creams and mornays” that diners crave. As he puts it, “It’s a great canvas – a starting point to other possibilities.” Desens encourages every home cook to master béchamel because, “once you understand roux and liquid, that opens up a hundred other doors.” But just what doors, exactly? Soufflés, gratins, macaroni and cheese and gravy, for starters. Rid your pantry forever of cans of cream-of-something, and instead, whip up a batch of béchamel. Create unique sauce ideas, such as finishing béchamel with leftover gravy for an outof-this world open-faced turkey sandwich topping. After mastering béchamel, it’s only a short step to those cream, mornay and soubise sauces, and each of these open even more culinary possibilities.

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to master the perfect béchamel, desens gives the following tips: | 1 | Use good milk. “It’s all about the milk. If you use the best quality ingredients, you can keep the sauce simple, and those ingredients will make it delicious,” Desens says. “If you add anything to the milk, butter and flour, those additions can mask the fine quality of the milk you brought to the table.” In other words: have fresh whole milk from a local farm? Then use it for a simple béchamel. Have 2 percent milk from the grocery store that’s about to expire? Then try making

Mother Sauce Béchamel Making balanced béchamel is all about the roux. Either add cold milk to hot roux or hot milk to cold roux to prevent lumps in your soups and sauces. Yield | 1 cup | 2 2 1

Tbsp butter Tbsp flour cup whole milk* salt white pepper nutmeg

| Preparation | In a heavy-bottom saucepot over medium heat, melt butter. Add flour to make roux. Add milk and combine well. Cook a minimum of 10 minutes (depending on the amount you are making) or until any flour flavor disappears completely. Season with salt, white pepper and nutmeg. *Change the amount of milk used depending on desired consistency: ¾ cup whole milk for thicker sauce. 1¼ cups whole milk for thinner sauce.

Turkey Tetrazzini This post-Thanksgiving dish combines leftovers with hearty ingredients for one tasty meal. Serves | 8 | 1 ½ 2 2 ¼ 2½ 1½ 1 12 ¼ ½

lb mushrooms, sliced red pepper, diced Tbsp olive oil cloves garlic, minced cup sherry cups cooked turkey, diced cups peas quart béchamel oz cooked linguine* chopped parsley, thyme or sage to taste cup grated Parmesan cup crushed Billy Goat Chip Co. potato chips

additions to the béchamel: Steep the milk with bacon or clove-studded onions before using it to make the sauce. | 2 | Be creative. “The versatility of béchamel is only limited to the creativity of the cook – feel free to experiment.” | 3 | Watch your consistency: It is better to start with a thick sauce and add liquid to thin it. | 4 | Always prepare roux in a heavy-bottomed pot and never scorch the roux. Aim for no color to keep the sauce white and neutral in order for it to lend full support to other

8 1 Soup

½ 2 12 ½ ¼ 2

*Use farfalle, penne or your favorite pasta.

cup butter stalks celery, diced oz mushrooms, sliced onion, diced cup flour Tbsp Madeira or sherry Smoked Gouda Cream (recipe below) salt and freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation – Smoked Gouda Cream | In a saucepan over medium-low heat, steep bacon in milk for 10 minutes to smoke milk. Remove bacon from smoked milk, dice and set aside. In a blender, add smoked Gouda to smoked milk and blend until smooth. Add heavy cream to incorporate.

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 375°F. In a small saucepot over medium-high heat, melt butter. Add flour to make roux. Add milk and cook out flour, 3 to 5 minutes. Add in cheese slowly to melt. Let cool slightly. Whip egg whites, adding cream of tartar until stiff peaks form. Whisk egg yolks into base, fold in whites and use to fill 2-oz ramekins. Bake in a water bath at 375°F for 20 minutes. Remove from oven. Run a knife around sides of ramekins to remove. Serve immediately or refrigerate for future use.

Add Maderia or sherry to roux mixture and stir well. Pour smoked Gouda cream into the pan, stirring over low heat for about 10 to 15 minutes, or until the flour flavor is cooked out. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Serves | 8 |

Green Bean Casserole Jazz up the obligatory holiday green bean casserole with Smoked Gouda Mushroom Soup (recipe above), in place of canned soup. But be prepared: Next year, people will be clamoring to get on your Thanksgiving dinner guest list. Serves | 6 to 8 | 1 1

cup Smoked Gouda Mushroom Soup (recipe above) lb fresh green beans, cooked salt and freshly ground black pepper fried onions, leeks or shallots

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. Combine soup and beans in a bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add half of the fried onions, leeks or shallots to the casserole. Transfer mixture to a casserole dish and top with remaining fried onions, leeks or shallots. Place casserole dish in oven to bake until golden and warmed through, approximately 30 minutes.

chicken stock for half the milk for additional flavor. You can also substitute shiitake mushrooms to enhance the smokiness. This soup is delicious served with fresh thyme croutons. The smoked Gouda cream could also be used in a variation of macaroni and cheese or as the sauce for a Hot Brown sandwich.

Desens recommends serving this dish with a green salad topped with Port-poached pears, grapes and candied walnuts. The soufflé lends itself to being reheated in order to allow more time to concentrate on cooking the rest of your meal. For the cheese in this recipe, Desens recommends using Roquefort, Cheddar, Gruyère or a combination of these.

Serves | 8 |

Serves | 8 |

Smoked Gouda Cream

1 2 ½

slices bacon cups milk

cup Roquefort cheese egg whites tsp cream of tartar egg yolks butter and bread crumbs as needed to coat ramekins

Crêpes Florentine Lasagna

Smoked Gouda Mushroom Soup Cheese Soufflé Have some fun with this recipe: Try substituting

4 4

2/3 4 1/8 2

| Preparation – Soup | In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, melt butter. Add cooked bacon, celery, mushrooms and onions. When vegetables are cooked and bacon is crisp, add flour and cook like roux.

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. In a saucepan over medium-high heat, sweat mushrooms and peppers in olive oil until mushroom liquid has evaporated. Add garlic and cook for 1 minute. Deglaze with sherry and reduce by half. Add turkey, peas, béchamel, linguine and herbs. Season to taste. Top with cheese and crushed potato chips and bake 30 minutes.

oz smoked Gouda, grated cup heavy cream

ingredients. | 5 | Béchamel takes a little less than 30 minutes to make from start to finish. Yes, this takes longer than popping open a can of cream-ofsomething. But “what are you willing to trade your time for?” Desens asks. Exceptional flavor is worth the extra time. | 6 | Béchamel may be frozen in ice cube trays for smaller quantities and used to build a quick sauce or complete soups, casseroles and more. Defrost béchamel in the microwave or drop frozen cubes of béchamel directly into a saucepot.

Tbsp butter Tbsp flour cup milk

* To reheat soufflé, bake at 350°F for 10 to 12 minutes or until warm.

Sure, béchamel would be delicious in traditional, white-sauce lasagna, but this take on a simple French dish really lets it steal the spotlight. Crêpes can also be prepared and frozen for future use.

CrêpeS

1¼ 2 1 3

cups milk eggs cup flour Tbsp butter, melted

SpinaCh

1

lb spinach, picked, cleaned

FillinG

14 1 ½

oz Ricotta cooked spinach egg tsp nutmeg salt and freshly ground black pepper

laSaGna

3

cups béchamel

| Preparation – Crêpes | Place all ingredients in a blender to combine, 30 seconds. Refrigerate for 20 minutes. Over medium-high heat, heat a nonstick pan. Pour a small amount of crêpe batter into pan (approximately 2 Tbsp) and swirl pan to allow batter to coat pan evenly. Cook crêpes for 10 seconds and turn over. Cook for a few seconds more; set aside. | Preparation – Spinach | Blanch spinach in boiling salted water for 20 to 30 seconds. Remove immediately to an ice bath. Press firmly to remove excess water. Set aside. | Preparation – Filling | Place all ingredients in a blender until combined.

| Preparation – Lasagna | Preheat oven to 350°F. Place a small amount of béchamel in the bottom of an 8-inch round casserole dish, just enough to coat the bottom of the dish, approximately 2 Tbsp. Layer crêpes with spinach filling and béchamel. Bake 20 to 30 minutes until golden brown and heated through.


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bottoms up! Written by Brandi Wills

photography by Jonathan Gayman

a carefully selected bottle of wine elevates a thanksgiving dinner from good to great – but that doesn’t mean there isn’t room for cocktails. this year, spice up the hours before and after dinner by serving guests cocktails brimming with the flavors of the season and featuring aperitifs and digestifs. an aperitif is an alcoholic beverage with a slightly bitter or acidic edge intended to make the mouth water and stimulate the appetite before a meal is served. Digestifs are sweet and strong beverages that aid in digestion and are served after a meal to provide a grand finale to the evening. typically, aperitifs and digestifs are sipped solo, but they also make flavorful ingredients that add extra complexity to cocktails. We tapped talent from five local restaurants and bars that specialize in seasonal craft cocktails for drink recipes that will surprise and delight your guests.


gezellig

The Fortune Teller Bar The Fortune Teller Bar refers to itself as “a bar lost in the mists of time and space.” The Cherokee Street watering hole embraces the unconventional and bartender and co-partner Kristin Dennis has certainly found her place amid the bar’s kitschy décor. What sets her intoxicating concoctions apart is the use of adventurous flavors. Your drink might be spiked with dill, a walnut or pine liqueur or house made ingredients such as dandelion tincture, vodka infused with pineapple and jalapeño or pickles or chile simple syrup. “Seasonal cocktails are the most fun because it’s always an attempt to capture a particular spirit of the time,” Dennis says. “From the freedom and adventure of a hot, sticky summer to the spice-laden traditions of a snowy winter, seasonal cocktails attempt to embody a moment in a glass. It’s a shared memory in liquid form and when you taste it, you know if it’s right.”

Gezellig, digestif Recipe by Kristin Dennis, The Fortune Teller Bar

Gezellig is my favorite Dutch word because – like my other favorite, lekker – it’s difficult to translate in that it has many meanings. The best attempt at translation might be ‘cozy,’ but lots of things are gezellig and all things gezelligheid are loved by the Dutch. The holidays are a particularly cozy time when gezelligheid is both tradition and requirement. Gezelligheid is the noun form and describes the coziness and love and joy of being together that we associate with the holidays, which is why I thought it an appropriate term for the drink. This is a simple cocktail to make, and the complex botanical presences in the Cocchi and Botanical Rye provide a nice herbal depth made cozy by the spicy sweetness of the star anise, orange peel and dark sugar. Serves | 1 | Star Anise and Orange Peel Syrup ½ cup demerara or turbinado sugar

½ cup water 5 whole star anise peel of 2 oranges, pith removed Gezellig 2 oz Cocchi Americano

1 oz Pow-Wow Botanical Rye ¼ oz star anise and orange peel syrup (recipe below), plus more for garnish flamed orange peel

| Preparation – Star Anise and Orange

Peel Syrup | Simmer all ingredients in a

saucepan over medium-low heat for 15 minutes. Strain and cool syrup before using.

| Preparation – Gezellig | Place the first three ingredients in a shaker filled with ice and shake well. Strain into a martini glass or into an old-fashioned glass half-filled with ice. Garnish with a flamed orange peel and drizzle with remaining syrup.

Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2013

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pompier highball

Elaia and Olio Olio’s relatively small cocktail menu focuses on classic drinks with quality ingredients and simple recipes. “I find joy in rediscovering drinks that may be overlooked or lost by the wayside for some reason or another,” says bartender John Fausz. Fausz rotates the menu monthly to keep his drinks hyper-seasonal. “Fall is a season of contrasts, so our menu highlights drinks with surprising combinations of ingredients,” Fausz says. He points to the Monkey Gland (gin, absinthe, grenadine and orange juice), the Zubrowka Clubland (Bison Grass vodka, white port and Angostura bitters) and the Lion’s Tail (bourbon, allspice dram, lime and Angostura bitters). “Fall is also a great time to use some bright flavors before the long, bourbondrenched winter,” Fausz notes. November 11 marks Olio’s first birthday, and Fausz plans to return to the best of the 100-plus cocktails the bar has featured thus far in order to create a “year in review” menu.

Pompier Highball, aperitif Recipe by John Fausz, Elaia and Olio

The hours before Thanksgiving dinner is served are chaotic. Everyone, theoretically, has their particular responsibility and few have a bartender on retainer. This before-dinner drink can be made quickly, or you can even batch it so that proper attention can be given to the turkey. The Pompier Highball is a ubiquitous café drink that is lively and shows a superb balance between sweet, fruity and herbal notes. Substitute byrrh for the dry vermouth, and you’ve got a Byrrh-Cassis Cooler – a drink that’s just as lively and complex, but with greater depth with dark fruit and spice flavors. The brand of cassis I normally use is Briottet Crème de Cassis de Dijon. Brizard is a good budget alternative, but skimping on the vermouth is unacceptable. Serves | 1 | 2 oz dry vermouth ½ oz crème de cassis club soda lemon or lime wedge

| Preparation | Place vermouth and crème de cassis in a mixing glass filled with ice, and stir. Strain into a cocktail glass filled with ice, and top with club soda. Add a lemon or lime wedge and serve.


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Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2013

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tom waits for no man

The Libertine A libertine is one who puts an emphasis on the pleasures of the senses. The much-lauded team behind the bar at Clayton’s The Libertine has kept that ideal close to heart when creating a cocktail program based on boutique spirits, fresh preparations and precisely crafted drinks. Bar manager and co–general manager Nate Weber’s seasonal cocktail menus feature classic recipes given a twist to reflect the changing season. “This can be done by playing around with the base spirit,” Weber says. “I also like to think about what we can make in-house that will enhance the drink, whether it be concocting bitters and tinctures to season the cocktail or creating sodas to elevate it.” The Libertine’s fall drink menu follows this formula, featuring darker spirits essential to many coldweather favorites.

Tom Waits for No Man, digestif Recipe by Nate Weber, The Libertine

This cocktail makes a great after-dinner drink. The locally produced rye whiskey has a nice bit of vanilla and cinnamon spice to it. Cinzano makes sweet vermouth that is a bit fuller in flavor and has a hint of bitterness to it. The Fernet adds an herbaceous quality, and the Angostura can be doctored with a bit of Thanksgiving flavors to tie it all together. Serves | 1 | 2 ½ ¼ 4

oz Still 630 Rally Point rye whiskey oz Cinzano sweet vermouth oz Fernet-Branca drops Angostura bitters infused with dried orange peel, lemon, chamomile and dried cranberries orange peel

| Preparation | Stir the first three ingredients in a mixing glass filled with ice. Strain into a rocks glass and add ice. Top with bitters and garnish with an orange peel.


100

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WON AN

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12:00 / 28:29

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Watch Feast TV on the Watch the upcoming November episode on the Nine Network (Channel 9) at 2pm on Sat., Nov. 2, and 1pm on Mon., Nov. 4. Feast TV will also air on the Nine Create channel periodically throughout the month.

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Hungry for more? feastSTL.com

Inspired Food Culture

november 2013

67


better than gravy

The Libertine continued

Better Than Gravy, aperitif Recipe by Nate Weber, The Libertine

This is a Thanksgiving-themed take on the classic Jack Rose. If there isn’t enough time or stove space to make the cranberry syrup, you can use grenadine instead. Fee Brothers makes a delicious but not too sweet version. Serves | 1 | Cranberry Syrup 2 lbs fresh or frozen cranberries 2¾ cups sugar 2½ cups water 1 pinch salt 1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice better than gravy

2 oz Laird’s Applejack ¾ oz fresh lemon juice ¾ oz cranberry syrup (recipe below) 1 fresh cranberry 1 fresh apple slice

| Preparation – Cranberry Syrup | Combine the first four ingredients in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bright red. Strain the syrup (cranberries can be reserved for cranberry sauce). Stir in lemon juice and allow to cool before using. | Preparation – Better Than Gravy | Add the first three ingredients to a shaker filled with ice. Shake well and double strain into a coupe glass. Garnish with a single cranberry and an apple slice.


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Inspired Food Culture

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69


it’s a small world aperol

Cleveland-Heath There’s something to be said about opposites attracting when developing a cocktail menu with universal appeal. “Our bar staff is pretty spread out when it comes to our favorite ingredients to use,” says Cleveland-Heath bar manager Samantha McCulloch. “I love making drinks with gin and bitter liqueurs, and [Eli Barnes, bartender] loves whiskeys and Scotches. Having folks with different tastes behind the bar has so many advantages. Not only does it help in covering all your bases on a cocktail menu, it also encourages education and diversity.” The drink menu at Cleveland-Heath has no problem standing out, with a staff that’s always devising distinct concoctions. “As of late, we’ve been experimenting with carbonated cocktails,” McCulloch says. “One is a play on the traditional Bicyclette (Campari and dry white wine with a lemon twist). Instead, [we] used Aperol and dry Riesling with lemon bitters, carbonated it and bottled it.” Fall will bring warming whiskey drinks to the popular Edwardsville eatery, as well as new creations featuring chai liqueur and pumpkin infusions.

It’s a Small World Aperol, aperitif RECIpE By Samantha mcculloch, ClEvElANd-HEATH

Aperol makes a great bitter for aperitif- and digestif-based cocktails. BroVo Amaro has a strong hibiscus note, a sweet eucalyptus aroma and a spicy cayenne finish. It gives the drink a strong base and round flavor, while the Aperol’s sweet and bitter grapefruit really finishes the drink. The lemon adds acidity and cuts through the thickness of the Aperol and broVo Amaro. Serves | 1 | 1 ½ ½

oz broVo Amaro No. 4 oz Aperol oz lemon juice

| Preparation | Combine all ingredients in a shaker filled with ice and stir. Strain into a rocks glass filled with ice and serve.

46

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2013


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Blood & Sand Blood & Sand’s extensive cocktail list represents a spectrum of flavors, textures, spirits and techniques, ensuring that there is something on the menu for everyone. “We keep a consistent set of house classics that are permanent fixtures on the menu, as well as rotating, seasonal offerings,” says bartender Jayne Pellegrino. When it comes to creating seasonal drinks, Pellegrino begins by taking note of what ingredients are available locally and what executive chef Chris Bork is playing with in the kitchen. “I prefer a holistic approach with our bar menu, so that it complements the offerings on our food menu,” Pellegrino says. “This creates a very unified, well-rounded experience for our patrons.”

Methods of Mayhem, digestif Recipe by JaYne Pellegrino, Blood & Sand

A nice sweet vermouth with hints of spice will play nicely with tart cranberry juice. The bitterness of Campari cuts through the sweetness of the vermouth without overshadowing the Irish whiskey, while the orange cream bitters and cinnamon tie all the notes together, complementing each ingredient nicely. Serves | 1 | 2 oz Irish whiskey ¾ oz sweet vermouth ½ oz Campari ¼ oz cranberry juice orange cream bitters freshly grated cinnamon freshly grated nutmeg

| Preparation | Stir the first five ingredients together in a mixing glass filled with ice. Strain into a small coupe glass and garnish with freshly grated cinnamon and nutmeg.

check it out!

Feast extra

Visit feastSTL.com for more seasonal cocktail recipes from our five featured bartenders.

72

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2013

methods of mayheM


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This Thanksgiving we’re celebrating our favorite holiday

contemporary classics edited by Liz Miller

|

photography by Jennifer Silverberg


with a menu of contemporary spins on classic dishes.

thanksgiving isn’t just about the food

on the table; it’s about the traditions and connections that we share through preparing family recipes, old and new. This Thanksgiving we’re celebrating our favorite holiday with a menu of contemporary spins on classic dishes. After profiling the owner of Missouri’s Buttonwood Farm and seeing first-hand how he raises chickens and turkeys on pasture (p. 46), we knew exactly where to find a fresh, tasty bird for our Thanksgiving table. From there, we tasked Nicholas Miller,

chef and owner of Harvest in Richmond Heights, to develop a fool-proof recipe for brining and preparing a turkey, as well as truffled giblet gravy, savory bread pudding, quince-cranberry jam and melted Brussels sprouts. With years of experience serving a four-course, locally sourced dinner at Harvest on Thanksgiving Day, Miller easily delivered. The final three recipes featured here establish a connection we hold very dear – a connection to our readers. Earlier this year we hosted the first Feast Contemporary Classics

Recipe Contest with L’Ecole Culinaire, where we asked readers to submit appetizer, side dish and dessert recipes. Feast editors narrowed each category to three finalist recipes, which were then prepared and judged by L’Ecole chef instructors. The winning three recipes rose to the challenge and then some, spotlighting hearty, flavorful dishes that playfully reimagine Thanksgiving standards. PICTURED: Fool-proof Thanksgiving turkey (left) and truffled giblet gravy (above). See recipes on p. 86.


quince-cranberry jam

though less popular than its pome relative the apple, quince is a delightful, bright fruit. In this jam, it works with orange juice and zest to enhance the tart flavor of cranberries for a take on the classic holiday sauce. See recipe on p. 86.


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Inspired Food Culture

november 2013

79


melted brussels sprouts

this twist on boiled or roasted Brussels sprouts serves them crispy, slightly caramelized and lightly seasoned with rosemary, garnished with finely shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano. See recipe on p. 86.


savory bread pudding

tasty and easy, this side dish offers a hearty, herby dose of autumn. This recipe calls for mushrooms, with Miller suggesting chanterelles, shiitakes and oysters. Have fun with it and include your favorite varieties. See recipe on p. 86.


twice-baked squash

twice-baked delicata squash with spiced nuts is a dish sure to please holiday guests. Buttery squash is mixed with tart goat cheese, heated through and topped with nut brittle for some added crunch. Served inside a delicata boat, this appetizer or side dish sits elegantly on dinner plates. See recipe on p. 88.


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83


sweet potato gratin

the idea behind this sweet potato gratin was to creatively reinterpret a Thanksgiving favorite with a bit more sophistication. The ingredients used here preserve the dish’s natural Thanksgiving dignity, with the earthy character of sweet potatoes balanced by toasted marshmallows customary to holiday sweet potato dishes. This version is a little grown up, though, with herb-infused cream and smoky, salty bacon topped with toasted maple marshmallow crème. See recipe on p. 88.


kabocha pie

the inspiration for this dessert is kabocha squash, a sweet winter squash used in Japanese cooking. The kabocha packs fantastic flavor, with dense texture and vibrant color that resembles a cross between pumpkin and sweet potatoes. Caramel pairs beautifully with kabocha, and in this case, that flavor comes from traditional Mexican cajeta – homemade dulce de leche made with goat milk and cinnamon. Cajeta makes this pie extra creamy, with a delightful dark tinge of caramel around the edges. See recipe on p. 88.


thanksgiving recipes - by nicholas miller, harvest Fool-Proof Thanksgiving Turkey

Truffled Giblet Gravy

Quince-Cranberry Jam

to skillet. Stir occasionally to allow slight

This rich, savory gravy calls for turkey stock or

See photo on p. 78.

carmelization. Add stock and cover.

This recipe requires some prep work – four days

low- or no- sodium chicken stock. Homemade

worth, in fact – but the payoff makes it plenty worth

turkey stock will taste best, but must be made

Yield | 2½ cups |

Taste Brussels sprouts for doneness and

the time, producing a rich, flavorful brined bird for

at least one day prior to Thanksgiving. Visit

your Thanksgiving dinner. See photo on p. 76.

feastSTL.com for Miller’s recipe for homemade

12

turkey stock. See photo on p. 77. Serves | about 12 |

Serves | 12 |

Brine

2

gallons water

2

cups kosher salt

1 cup cream sherry

2

cups sugar

1 bag turkey giblets

1

18½ lb turkey

2

stalks celery, chopped

2

carrots, peeled and chopped

1

large yellow onion, chopped

1

head garlic, quartered

1

sprig rosemary

1

sprig sage

| Preparation – Brine | Two days prior to cooking, stir together water, salt and sugar in a plastic container large enough to submerge the turkey. Refrigerate.

the cavity of the bird and reserve for the gravy. Place turkey in the plastic container of brine slowly, making sure the container doesn’t overflow. Place a stainless steel rack above the turkey to ensure it is completely submerged. Refrigerate for 24 hours. Once turkey has rested in brine for 24 hours in the refrigerator, slowly remove turkey from container of brine. Rinse turkey under cold water. Line a baking rack with a towel and place turkey on the rack, then refrigerate again for 12 to 24 hours. Once turkey has rested in the refrigerator for 12 to 24 hours, remove and allow it to reach room temperature. Preheat oven to 350ºF.

juice of 1 orange 2

small quince, diced

salt and freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation – Turkey Gravy | Pour excess inside its roasting pan into a heat-proof container, taking care to reserve the browned juices in the

heat turkey roasting pan. Add sherry to deglaze to the pan). Reduce sherry by half, then strain

slightly thickened, as the jam will thicken more as it cools. Remove saucepot from the stove and add diced quince. If necessary, season with additional sugar to taste – depending on the season, cranberries might hold additional acidity and tartness.

Melted Brussels Sprouts See photo on p. 80. Serves | 12 |

all liquid into a heat-proof container. Let liquid separate and skim the remaining fat.

½

lb pancetta, diced ¼-inch thick

1

large yellow onion, quartered, ¼-inch julienned

Pour drippings, sherry mixture and giblets into a heavy-bottomed pan. Cook giblets through.

salt and freshly ground black pepper 4

lbs Brussels sprouts, ends removed,

Add stock and bring to a simmer, whisking constantly. While whisking, add roux (recipe

quartered ¼

below) and bring to a boil. Adjust thickness

with additional stock as needed – blending

2

giblets will thicken the gravy slightly. In small batches (never fill a blender over half full with hot liquid) blend gravy. Strain gravy through a chinois or fine mesh strainer. Add lemon juice and truffle oil. Taste gravy, adding salt and

have reached desired doneness and garnish with finely shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Savory Bread Pudding

In a medium saucepot, bring all

pan. Set aside for roux. On a stovetop burner over medium-high heat,

Remove sprouts to a serving dish when they

See photo on p. 81.

heat to a simmer. Stir to prevent sticking until

½ tsp white truffle oil

season with rosemary, salt and pepper to taste.

zest of 1 orange

1 lemon, juiced

Serves | 12 | 1 1 3 2½ 2½ 1 8 ½ 1½ 1½ 1

loaf sourdough bread loaf ciabatta bread eggs cups whole milk cups heavy cream cup leeks, sautéed oz mushrooms, sautéed cup finely grated Parmesan cheese tsp chopped rosemary tsp chopped sage Tbsp chopped parsley salt and freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350ºF. Slice bread into 1-inch cubes. Set aside. Whisk eggs, then add milk and cream and whisk to combine. In a large bowl, combine all ingredients, including salt and pepper, gently tossing from the bottom of the bowl so the milk mixture is

cup chicken stock

thoroughly incorporated. Allow mixture to rest

tsp chopped rosemary

for an hour so the milk and eggs penetrate the

oz Parmigiano-Reggiano, shaved

bread uniformly.

| Preparation | In a large skillet over medium-

While mixture is resting, butter a 9-inch-by-13-inch

low heat, render pancetta, stirring often. Continue

baking dish. Once the mixture is finished resting,

to cook pancetta until browned and crispy.

pour it evenly into the buttered baking dish and place in the oven. When the top has browned, about

pepper to taste.

Increase heat to medium and add onions.

30 minutes, cover with aluminum foil and cook for

Season onions with salt and pepper. Stir

another 30 minutes or until a wooden skewer poked

| Preparation – Roux | Measure the amount of

onions until translucent. Add Brussels sprouts

into the center of the pudding comes out clean.

another and fold wing tips behind shoulder. In a

over medium heat.

roasting pan, add celery, carrots, onion, garlic, rosemary, sage and salt and pepper. Place a

Measure the same amount of flour to match

roasting rack over vegetable and herb mixture

fat and slowly whisk it into the fat. Reduce heat

and place into the oven. Due to its size, the turkey

slightly, stirring often to cook until a nutty aroma

will take around 3½ hours to cook. Use a digital

rises from the pan. It is quite likely the amount of

thermometer to determine doneness; remove

roux yielded will exceed what the above recipe

turkey from the oven once it reaches 165ºF. Allow

requires. Chill excess roux, then freeze roux for

turkey to rest for an hour before serving.

future use.

Watch Nicholas Miller brine and truss a turkey in the November episode of Feast TV ! NOVEMBER 2013

tsp rosemary, chopped

ingredients except quince to a boil then reduce

turkey fat. Pour fat into a heavy-bottomed pan

feastSTL.com

cup Port wine

7 oz blonde turkey fat roux

Using cotton twine, truss turkey legs to one

86

1

2 quarts turkey or chicken stock

the pan, scraping up any fond (browned bits stuck

| Preparation – Turkey | Remove giblets from

cup sugar

| Preparation |

turkey fat from a cooked, whole turkey from

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 ½

turkey roasting pan drippings

Turkey

oz fresh cranberries


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thanksgiving recipes - l’ecole culinaire recipe contest winners winning appetizer: Twice-Baked Delicata Squash with Spiced Nuts Recipe by Stacy Mccann

See photo on p. 82.

Spiced nutS

¼

cup brown sugar cup white sugar

½

tsp cumin

1

tsp coriander

tsp salt

1

egg white

1

Tbsp water

1

cup walnuts, chopped

1

cup pecans, chopped

medium delicata squash, halved, seeds removed

| To Serve | Using a fork or your hands, break

until potatoes are fork-tender. Set aside while

apart the sheet of spiced nut brittle into small

preparing maple marshmallow crème.

remove from the oven and top with a small

| Preparation – Marshmallow Crème |

handful of nut brittle.

preheat broiler to 500°F. in the bowl of a stand large bowl using a hand mixer with a whisk

winning side dish: Smoky Sweet Potato Gratin with Maple Marshmallow Crème Recipe by tory Bahn

See photo on p. 84.

Tbsp butter

2

Tbsp brown sugar sea salt and freshly ground black pepper oz goat cheese

4 to 6 12

300°F. Mix sugars and spices in a small bowl and set aside. in a medium-sized bowl, combine egg white and water and beat until frothy (you should

to coat. Spread mixture onto baking sheet covered in parchment paper, flattening with a spatula. bake for 30 minutes. Remove from oven to cool.

| Preparation – Squash | increase oven temperature to 450°F. Rub each seeded squash

syrup in a small saucepan and place over medium heat. bring mixture to a boil and

oz thick-cut bacon (such as Nueske’s),

continue beating for 5 to 7 minutes, until mixture

sprigs fresh thyme

2

sprigs fresh sage

1

bay leaf freshly ground black pepper

MarShMallow crèMe

large egg whites, room temperature tsp cream of tartar Tbsp granulated sugar

1/3

cup water

2/3

cup maple syrup

¾

cup light corn syrup

1

combine 1/3 cup water, maple syrup and corn

continuously beating. increase speed to high and

cups heavy cream

2

to 5 minutes. Set bowl aside.

Slowly pour hot syrup into egg whites while

2

3

egg whites until they reach soft peaks, about 4

4 lbs, peeled

3

½

Tbsp of sugar while mixing and continue beating

medium sweet potatoes, about 3½ to

not be able to see the bottom of the bowl). Add nuts and toss to coat with egg. Add spices and toss

tartar until foamy, about 1 minute. Slowly add 2

Tbsp butter, for greasing

sliced into ¼-inch pieces

| Preparation – Spiced Nuts | preheat oven to

attachment, beat egg whites with cream of

remove from heat.

Gratin

1

2

2

cover baking dish with foil and bake 40 minutes. Remove foil and bake another 15 minutes or

Serves | 8 to 10 |

SquaSh

4

or until filling is heated through.

mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, or in a

tsp smoked paprika

1

pour remaining cream over layered potatoes.

bake at 350°F for an additional 15 to 20 minutes,

pieces. When the squash filling is heated through,

Serves | 6 |

¼

place squash boats back on the baking pan and

tsp vanilla extract

gains volume and holds some shape. Add vanilla and mix to combine. pour marshmallow crème over sweet potatoes, and smooth over or create small peaks with a spatula by gently patting spatula over crème. (These peaks will darken more than the valleys of the crème, once under the broiler.) in the broiler, place oven rack 6 to 8 inches away from the broiler element. place dish under broiler until marshmallow crème has achieved desired toasted brown appearance, 1 to 2 minutes.

half with butter (including skin), then place skinside down on a baking tray or dish.

| Preparation – Gratin | preheat oven to 375°F. butter a 9-inch-by-13-inch baking dish.

Sprinkle each half with brown sugar, salt and pepper. Roast in the oven for 30 to 40 minutes.

Slice sweet potatoes into 1/8-inch chips using a

After 30 minutes, check every 2 minutes until a

mandoline or sharp knife and add to a large bowl.

knife easily slices through the squash.

Set aside.

Remove squash from the oven and reduce oven

in a medium frying pan, cook bacon over medium

temperature to 350°F. Let squash cool until it’s

heat until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and

cool to the touch. carefully scrape squash meat

let drain in a paper towel-lined bowl.

into a bowl, leaving a thin layer of squash so the skin can act as a boat. The skin is very thin and

in a medium saucepan, combine cream, thyme,

you’ll need six squash boats, so be very careful

sage and bay leaf and scald milk over medium

while scraping out the meat.

heat. Remove from heat and let steep, about 5 minutes. Remove herbs from the cream and pour

Mix squash meat with goat cheese. Add more

over potatoes.

winning dessert: Kabocha Pie with Dulce de Leche

tsp toasted, freshly grated nutmeg

½

tsp salt

1

pinch ground cloves cajeta (recipe above)

1½ 4

cups heavy cream eggs, beaten

| Preparation – Cajeta | in a Dutch oven or large saucepot, heat goat milk, sugar and cinnamon. Remove from heat. combine baking soda and water to dissolve, add baking soda mixture to goat milk mixture; milk will foam. Return to heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until a deep golden color forms and milk has reached the consistency of thick syrup, about 3 hours.

| Preparation – Pie Crust | preheat oven to 375°F. in a food processor, pulse butter and flour to combine. Slowly add cold water through the chute. you should be able to form a large pattyshape with it. chill for at least 30 minutes. On a lightly floured surface, roll out crust to fit a 14-inch pan. press into pan, trimming edges. chill for another 30 minutes. prick several times with a fork, line with aluminum foil or parchment paper, and weigh down with pie weights. Set crust in oven and bake 15 minutes. Once crust is removed from oven, remove weights and foil or paper, and bake for an additional 10 minutes.

| Preparation – Filling | preheat oven to 375°F.

thick slices and drizzle with oil. Roast at 375°F for 45 minutes, until easily pierced with a fork. Remove flesh from skin with a paring knife and purée in a food processor, adding cold water 1 Tbsp at a time to form a mixture that is thinner than mashed potatoes, but still holds some

Serves | 10 |

2

liters goat milk

2

cups sugar

1

large cinnamon stick

½ 1

shape. press through a chinois or sieve. combine purée, spices and salt. Mix in cajeta

cajeta

and heavy cream. Add eggs. Whisk thoroughly to combine.

tsp baking soda

pour filling mixture into pie crust. bake at 375°F

Tbsp water

for about 45 minutes, or until pie has puffed up 1½-inch around edges, barely jiggles when shaken

pie cruSt

between six squash boats. The amount in each

rows for the first layer. Season with pepper

boat depends on the size of your squash – just

and about half of the cooked bacon. continue

FillinG

ensure each boat has approximately the same

layering potatoes with pepper and bacon,

2 to 3

amount of filling.

finishing the last layer with potatoes.

NOVEMBER 2013

tsp ground cinnamon

¼

See photo on p. 85.

in a baking dish, lay potato slices in overlapping

feastSTL.com

tsp ground ginger

Recipe by Silvia dadian-SMith

is smooth and no lumps remain, split mixture

88

Tbsp cold water

Slice squash in half and remove seeds. cut into

10

salt and pepper if desired. When squash mixture

4 to 5

5 to 7

2

Tbsp cold butter, in pieces cups all-purpose flour Tbsp cold water

and the crust is golden brown. Allow to cool and set completely before removing from pan.

| To Serve |

Serve at room temperature with

reserved cajeta and chilled whipped cream, kabocha squash

laced, if desired, with cinnamon, vanilla and

Tbsp vegetable oil

powdered sugar.


CLASSIFIEDS CLASSIFIEDS CLASSIFIEDS

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Make a Make a Make a

s h a l s s h p a ssppllash

with a larger ad and with largercustomers! ad and landa future with a larger ad and land future customers! land future customers!

(636) 274-1378 (636) 274-1378 (636) 274-1378

Call 314/269-8810 Call 314/269-8810 or email Call 314/269-8810 or email classified@laduenews.com or email classified@laduenews.com for more information classified@laduenews.com for more information for more information Inspired Food Culture

november 2013

89


the last bite

Sweet ’N Spicy cupcake

CoNtrIbutor: Shannon Weber, Writer Much ado has been made over cupcakes; too much, perhaps, because they’ve become a bit overplayed. It shouldn’t be that way, though. After all, a cupcake is just a very small cake, right? And cake has the power to turn full-grown adults into delighted children, a magical quality few other desserts can claim. I have always had a soft spot for cupcakes because they’re a great meal-ender and a stellar coffee sidekick. When I don’t feel like baking a batch at home, I treat myself to Sarah’s Cake Shop, where cupcakes abound and are always superb. I’ve never had a cupcake at Sarah’s I didn’t fall instantly in love with. My favorite of the bunch is the Sweet ’N Spicy, a magnificently spiced chocolate cake brushed with cinnamon glaze, filled with chocolate frosting, dipped in cayenne ganache and topped with a cayennebuttercream rosette. It’s an ideal after-dinner treat, slightly sweet, but with just enough heat to make your last bite of the night a little surprising. Sarah’s Cake Shop 10 Clarkson Wilson Center Chesterfield 636.728.1140 sarahscakeshopstl.com Check out more of Weber’s work on p. 36, where she explores how to cook with juniper berries in this month’s Mystery Shopper.

90

feastStL.com

NOVeMBeR 2013

PhotogrAPhy by

Jonathan Gayman


Funjet Gourmet-inclusive®

cuisine

Photos courtesy of El Dorado Royale, a Spa Resort, by Karisma

The signature Gourmet Inclusive ® concept takes each vacation to the next level at El Dorado Royale, a Spa Resort by Karisma. Guests at El Dorado Royale are treated to gourmet dining and premium beverages along with a stunning beachside location. Featuring nine gourmet restaurants, this adults-only resort pampers travelers with indulgent, mouthwatering dishes at every turn. riviera maya

el Dorado royale, by Karisma 5

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663

$

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all-inclusive!

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Travel protection is not included in advertised prices. Savings are reflected in advertised prices above. Prices are per person based on double occupancy for new bookings made 11/1/13-11/29/13, for travel 1/5/14 - 1/22/14. ^Upgrades based on availability upon arrival. Select hotels may impose a resort fee, which is not included in the above price, and is payable directly to the hotel. Various cancellation penalties and payment requirements may apply. Please refer to the Funjet Vacations’ Bill of Rights for details available from your travel agent or at funjet.com. Offers may be withdrawn or changed without notice. Additional restrictions may apply. Please see Funjet.com. CST 2009218-20


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November 2013 Feast Magazine  

FEAST Magazine delves into St. Louis' culinary scene for inspired ideas in cooking, the latest on restaurants, great gadgets, kitchen design...