November 2012 FEAST Magazine

the perfect plan

day-after delights

food-family recipes

turkey day 101

leftovers

Rustic desserts

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

feastSTL.com | november 2012 | FREE

a chef’s thanksgiving

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Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

a chef’s thanksgiving 62 NOVEMER 2012 from the staff

| 10 |

from the publisher

Feast gets a makeover.

| 12 |

feaststl.com

What’s online this month.

| 14 |

feast faVes

Inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis. columNs

| 26 |

oNe oN oNe

Pastaria executive chef Adam Altnether is on a roll.

| 28 |

the mix

Toast to election season with Buck and Breck.

| 30 |

oN the shelf

New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 32 |

mystery shopper

Buy it and try it: feijoa.

| 34 |

how to

Carve a turkey.

| 36 |

tech school

Mastering mousseline.

| 38 |

gadget a-go-go

Put to the test: fat separators.

| 40 |

meNu optioNs

Put dessert first with Italian donuts and vanilla ice cream.

| 74 |

the last bite

Share a boozy delight with videographer Hannah Radcliff.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY OF THANkSGIVING PARTING GIFTS (P. 60) BY Jennifer Silverberg TABLE OF CONTENTS PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Jennifer Silverberg (1 and 2) and Jonathan Gayman (3)

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2. leftovers

that impress Chef Angela Komis cooks up new ideas for leftovers

44

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Inspired Food Culture

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Magazine Volume 3

| Issue 11 | November 2012

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor Brandi Wills Managing Editor, Digital Content Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Allen Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editors/Proofreaders Stephanie Witmer, Andrea Mongler Contributing Writers Tory Bahn, Brandon Chuang, Pat Eby, Chad Michael George Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson, Angela Komis, Angela Ortmann Hannah Radcliff, Matt Seiter, Michael Sweeney, Cassy Vires Contributing Photographers Jonathan Gayman, Jonathan Pollack Jennifer Silverberg, Corey Woodruff Contributing Videographer Hannah Radcliff Contributing Illustrator Derek Bauman

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Kelly Klein, 314.340.8562 kklein@stltoday.com Comments publisher@feastSTL.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright Š 2010-2012 by Feast Magazine™.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC Jennifer A. Wood, publisher

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NOVEMBER 2012

Discover Historic Main Street Columbia

Illinois

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Black Angus Steaks & Burgers Appetizers • Salads • Sandwhiches • Fish Brick Oven Pizzas • Desserts

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Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2012

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PHOTOGRAPHy by

Jonathan Gayman

publisher’s letter

FEAST EVENTS Feast Your Eyes Sat., Nov. 3, noon; Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis

Enjoy a tasting prepared in response to the exhibitions and paired with local wine and cocktails.

Magnificent Missouri Dinner Series: A Native American Feast Sun., Nov. 4, 3:30 to 8pm; Audubon Center at Riverlands $100, magnificentmissouri.org

Celebrate Missouri’s food history and support Missouri conservation. The evening will feature Josh Galliano’s Native American menu, served at Riverlands, located in more than 3,700 of restored prairie marsh and river bottom-land forest.

Booze Doodles Gallery Show Thu., Nov. 8, 6 to 9pm; Aisle 1 Gallery

All of the original boozy napkins will be on sale at this free event, and all of the proceeds will benefit SCOSaG. Cocktails by Matt Seiter, eats from Papa Tom’s Fancy Franks and music by Stan Chisholm.

Wine Dinner at 1904 Steakhouse Thu., Nov 8, 6pm; River City Casino $75, RSVP to ronald.battocletti@rivercity.com

Executive chef Bill Osloond presents five wine-paired courses inspired by fall’s defining flavors. The meal will usher in the spirit of the fast-approaching holidays.

Thanksgiving Day should be enjoyed, a day to share a feast with friends and family.

Turn to p. 44 for a step-by-step guide for making the day smooth and stress-free.

A Chef’s Thanksgiving Wed., Nov. 14, 6:30pm $30, wholefoodsmarket.com/service/register-cooking-classes

In print and online, Feast has been refreshed, updated and made an even more enjoyable way to devour our delicious content.

We partnered with Firecracker Press to give the magazine a bright update that retains Feast’s core sensibility. Art director Lisa Allen and I wanted the magazine’s repeating design elements to have a hand-made quality, reflecting the craft that goes into creating great food and drink. Firecracker delivered. “All of the ingredients used in the Feast re-design come from our collection of old wood-blocks, wood reglet and various antique, letterpress decorations,” says owner Eric Woods. “Everything was inked and printed by hand before being digitized for reproduction. Our goal was to make visual tools that help Feast readers navigate each issue in a clear, organic way. We love pulling dusty pieces of wood out of old boxes, prepping them on the press and developing a thoughtful composition. Our design process is like cooking in many ways!” Woods and his team went so far as to use St. Louis-made fonts created at Inland Type Foundry between 1885 and 1905.

Online, editor Kristin Brashares has given feastSTL.com an entirely updated navigation, allowing our readers to easily find content based on what it is rather than where it was published. We no longer break our print content apart from our online exclusives – now you can browse based on whether you want to Dine In, Dine Out or Drink.

I hope you enjoy the re-imagined Feast and, of course, have a happy Thanksgiving!

Until next time,

Chef Cassy Vires teaches you Thanksgiving tricks, publisher Cat Neville demos her pumpkin-custard pie and STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann leads a tasting of Turkey Day wines.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Nov. 28, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $40, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Get hands-on and learn to make seared dry-aged strip steak with caponata, creamy Pecorino polenta and Italian doughnuts with vanilla ice cream.

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Thu., Nov. 29, 6pm; Harvest Restaurant RSVP to editor@feastSTL.com

Join us to discuss The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook by Deb Perelman while enjoying complimentary hors d’oeuvres and drink specials.

Purchase the book from Left Bank Books and receive 20 percent off.

feedback?

catherine@feaststl.com

Catherine Neville

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NOVEMBER 2012

Inspired Food Culture

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ONLINE CONTENT

feastSTL.com

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

The Feed

Dine Out

Dine In

Drink

Feast Events

Multimedia

The Magazine

SPECIAL EVENT: Join us for a free art show on Thu., Nov. 8, at

MULTImedIa

BEHIND-THE-SCENES VIDEO: Watch photographer Jennifer Silverberg flawlessly fuse warm and inviting table décor with Home Wine Kitchen chef Cassy Vires’ Thanksgiving dishes, featured on p. 44.

Aisle 1 gallery based on Booze Doodles, our wildly popular online summer series. All 18 artists’ cocktail-napkin creations will be on sale, with proceeds benefiting SCOSag. Plus: music by artist/DJ Stan Chisholm, food from Papa Tom’s Fancy Franks truck and a specially created punch by The Mix columnist Matt Seiter.

NOVEMBER GIVEAWAYS: Enter to win this month’s prizes: a gorgeous black walnut John Boos cutting board and a fresh organic turkey from Whole Foods Market – Town & Country with six scrumptious sides. Details at feastSTL.com.

CONNECT WITH US facebook.com/feastSTL Scan this tag to LIKE us

twitter.com/feastmag Scan this tag to FOLLOW us

DINE oUT:

OuT TO LuNCH: If a hectic holiday schedule leaves you little time to pack a lunch, columnist Andrew Mark Veety has you covered. Check out his suggestions every Monday for the best midday meals at restaurants around town (like 5 Star Burgers, pictured). PHOTOgrAPHy By J. POLLACK PHOTOgrAPHy

pinterest.com/feastmag Scan this tag to FOLLOW us Get the free app at gettag.mobi

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Hand Crafted Coffees Importing Fine Coffees from 20 Countries • QUALITY • EXPERIENCE • SERVICE Full Service Coffeehouse & Restaurant Supplier Fourth Generation Family Owned Coffee Roasters Since 1930

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335 Market Place Fairview Heights, IL 1-877-ROCK-777

W W W. C A S T L E R O C K R E M O D E L I N G . C O M Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2012

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14464 Clayton Road, Ballwin, 636.333.1015 trattoriamarcella.com/mia-sorella

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feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2012

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Trattoria Marcella has dished up some of St. Louis’ favorite Italian food for 15 years. (Lobster risotto, anyone?) Now brothers Jamie and Steve Komorek have debuted a casual, family-friendly outpost in Ballwin: Marcella’s Mia Sorella. All pasta is made in-house, as is the salsiccia, and both shine in the restaurant’s hearty Maccheroni, where a thick red sauce binds braised pork, salsiccia and housemade meatballs with fresh corkscrew pasta.

Pizzas are baked in a brick oven, the dough made with Italian 00 flour and extra-virgin olive oil. Our fave? The Chopped White Clam, where sweet onions, housemade pancetta, oregano and fresh arugula spotlight the clams’ gentle flavor. For meat-centered entrées consider steak with vin cotto and gorgonzola butter or the Frutti di Mare, where fruits of the sea mingle in a tomato-saffron broth. Even paninis get an artisan touch. Dig into the rosemary- and orange-scented porchetta with braised greens, Gruyère and apricot mostarda.

Simple dishes made with high-quality ingredients.

We expect nothing less from the Komoreks. – C.N.

Jonathan Gayman

marcella’s mia sorella

white burgundy @ herbie’s vintage 72 written by

Jennifer Johnson

the wine list at Herbie’s Vintage 72 is internationally diverse, with a sizable by-the-glass selection. when choosing a wine to pair with the restaurant’s excellent oyster selection, the list’s many sparkling wines – a natural fit with oysters for palate cleansing and flavoraccentuating qualities – are tempting. However, choose the Jean-Marie Chaland Domaine des Chazelles 2010 burgundy. Atlantic blue Points are offered several ways here, but these ultrapremium oysters reign supreme when carefully battered and fried to a precise crispness that captures the tender sweetness inside. this white burgundy makes a brilliant pairing. the wine – a Chardonnay from Mâconnais, a Southern burgundian region lately known for great valuedriven whites – exhibits a bone-dry, crisp acidity softened by a touch of French oak aging that enhances the shellfish’s natural sweetness. Pineapple, apple and grapefruit notes refreshingly contrast the oysters’ accompanying creamy chipotle aïoli, while its clean minerality and fullbodied palate mellow the hint of heat in the sauce.

PHOtOGrAPHy by

Corey Woodruff

405 n. euclid Ave., Central west end, 314.769.9595 herbies.com

St. Louis-based wine enthusiast Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist, and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine.

Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2012

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the shack pubgrub you can’t deny the appeal of pub grub, especially when it’s fresh, creative and handmade. At The Shack PubGrub, corners aren’t cut, but fresh potatoes are. And then they’re fried. And then they’re decadently topped. Hot and Spicy is a fry must-try, with seven-spice buffalo sauce, bacon bits, buttermilk-blue cheese sauce and green onions. Salads are all served as wedges, with crisp iceberg lettuce supporting an avalanche of ingredients. We like the Ensalada, with roasted corn salsa and salsa fresca, queso blanco, tortilla strips and green-chile vinaigrette. The Shack-wich is stuffed with fries, coleslaw and the meat of your choice (go with the housemade pastrami). burger lovers will be happy here too. beef for the Smashburgers is ground fresh each day, and the patties come off the grill appropriately greasy and beefy. The “JH” Jam burger is one of our top picks – the bacon jam adds sweet smokiness that plays well with a creamy peppercorn aïoli. The term “grub” seems an unfair moniker for this pub’s playful, delicious fare. – C.N.

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Corey Woodruff

3818 Laclede Ave., Midtown, 314.533.7000 shackstl.com

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cranberry sauce Cranberry sauce often gets the shaft on Thanksgiving, arriving at the table in a canshaped log. Give this overlooked condiment the chef’s treatment with one of these upscale versions from local markets. Or turn to p. 58 for a quick and easy recipe. – B.W.

rich & savory

briGht & citrusy

tart & fruity

| 1 | Cranberry Port Wine Sauce, $12 per lb; The Smokehouse Market, 16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, smokehousemarket.com | 2 | Fresh Citrus Cranberry Relish, $4.49 per lb; Kenrick’s Meats & Catering, 4324 Weber Road, Affton, kenricks.com | 3 | Cranberry Sauce, $6 for a 12-oz jar; Winslow’s Home, 7213 Delmar Blvd., University City, winslowshome.com PHOTOGRAPHy By Jonathan Gayman Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2012

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whisk: a sustainable bake shop written by

Brandon Chuang

what started as a cupcake stall called Farm Fresh Cupcakes in the tower grove Farmer’s Market that sourced (mostly) local ingredients has blossomed into a full-blown storefront on Cherokee Street. relaunched as whisk: a Sustainable bakeshop, owner Kaylen wissinger now offers more than just cupcakes, and she’s making sure that her hugely satisfying treats leave a very small eco-footprint.

J. Pollack Photography

recycled or biodegradable paper products, furniture made from reclaimed wood and a compost pile for neighborhood gardeners all help put the “sustainable” into her bake shop’s name. working to spotlight area farmers, wissinger is still making all of her products with local Missouri and illinois produce. Quiches, muffins, cookies and even ice pops (made with only half a teaspoon of sugar) make the list.

PhotograPhy by

we can’t speak to how healthy gobbling down a pile of wissinger’s cupcakes is, but doing that much good for the planet has got to burn some serious calories, right?

2201 Cherokee St., Cherokee business District whiskstl.com

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Recently suffered a

STROKE?

Doctors would like to talk with you about post-stroke spasticity research.

If you or someone you know is recovering from a stroke suffered 3 or more months ago and is experiencing spasticity (muscle tightness and pulling) of the lower limb, consider learning more about the "PLUS" medical research study.

The "PLUS" study is evaluating the safety and efficacy of an investigational medication in poststroke spasticity patients.

To pre-qualify for this study, patients must: • Be between 18 and 80 years of age • Have had a stroke at least three months before the start of the study • Have medically diagnosed spasticity of the lower limb • Have a need for spasticity treatment in the lower limb only • Be able to walk at least 10 meters, with or without the aid of a walking stick, crutch, walker or one person All study-related visits, tests, and treatments will be provided to participants at no cost.

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NOVEMBER 2012

19

pie oh my!

It can be hard to create the perfect name for a business, but Jane Callahan has the name game down-pat with her pie shop Pie Oh My! “Oh my!” is exactly what comes to mind when you swing open the door to this Maplewood shop and are greeted with happy aromas of butter, sugar and a little cinnamon from her freshly baked pies.

Just a few months old, this quaint shop is already gaining a following, and depending on which day you visit, you may have to elbow your way through the crowd to sneak a peek at the plump fruit pies and decadent cream pies on display.

Choose from daily flavors in an individual slice, a tart or a mini-pie. What’s the difference between a tart and a mini-pie? According to Callahan, tarts are for filling lovers and mini-pies are for crust lovers. But even filling lovers will give a “yum” to Callahan’s signature crust, which is made with both butter and shortening for maximum flavor and flake. Full-sized pies are also available but must be ordered in advance.

While we love pie all year round, the holidays are the perfect time to check out what’s baking at this aptly named shop. – B.W. 2719 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood 314.704.4416 pieohmystl.com

Three MusT-Buy Thanksgiving Pies | 1 | Apple Pear Cranberry was inspired

|1|

|2|

|3|

by a customer suggestion and features a delicious combination of Anjou pears, Granny Smith apples and cranberries with a hint of cinnamon. Pair a slice of this pie with a cranberry-Champagne cocktail.

| 2 | Bourbon Chocolate Pecan has a layer of melted chocolate at the base of the crust. The filling is chock full of Missouri pecans and has a splash of Jack Daniels. espresso whipped cream. | 3 | Pumpkin Walnut Crumble has a rich pumpkin filling made with butter instead of cream. And baking spice is mixed into the crumb topping instead of the filling. Serve a slice with a scoop of vanilla-cinnamon ice cream and a mug of hot cider.

20

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NOVEMBER 2012

PHOTOGRAPHy By Corey Woodruff

Top a slice of this decadent pie with

A Brilliant Choice!

Main Street HAPPENINGS

Breakfast with Santa NOVEMBER 24 DECEMBER 1, 8, 15 & 22

Magical Gemstone Jewelry • Mystical Incense • Candles & Crystals

Walter's has as an outstanding reputation for high quality jewelry and diamonds, with our knowledgeable staff and our excellent service.

Diamonds, Watches, Fine Jewelry In House Repair Custom Designs • Appraisals

Metaphysical & Inspirational Books www.theenchantedatticsite.com

Interactive Dinner Show

FREE Gift with Every Purchase!

DECEMBER 2, 9, 16 & 23

Join Us on Facebook

"A Clueless Christmas"

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The Enchanted Attic

304 S. Main

(636) 949-9502

- This Season -

Give a Gift He will Appreciate

We Buy...

Walter's is always buying gold, platinum, silver, estate jewelry, coins, diamonds and Rolex Watches

Mon & Fri 9am-7pm Tuse, Wed & Thur 9am-5:30pm Sat 9am-5pm

Walters Jewelr y Inc. • Four Generations Since 1925

230 North Main St., St. Charles, MO

636-724-0604

OR

636-946-7352

www.waltersjewelryinc.com

Fun Fall Accessories At

From the top Brands in Men’s Fashion

426 South Main Street, Historic St. Charles, MO

636-724-7677

Fall Fashion Explosion at

THRO’S 229 North Main Street

Historic Downtown St. Charles Mon-Fri 9:30-7 • Sat 9:30 -5

(636) 724-0132

Finishing

Touches

by Charlotte

Large Selection

• Coats • Sweaters • Jackets • Tops • Hats • Hand Bags 825 S. Main St., Historic St. Charles • 636-947-6330 Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2012

21

stylish serving pieces Thanksgiving is the time to put your best food forward, and what better way to show off your culinary mastery than with serving pieces that impress? – B.W.

|1|

|4|

|2|

|3| |5|

| 1 | Kobenstyle butter warmer, $40; momastore.org | 2 | Cast-iron casserole, $295; momastore.org | 3 | 10-inch cork bowl, $34.95; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com | 4 | Espresso set, $65; momastore.org | 5 | Point Duchesse tureen, $128; Anthropologie

22

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NOVEMBER 2012

The Reagan Main Street HAPPENINGS

Late Night Shopping

Sales, Service and Repair

ST.CHARLES’ #1 BUYER OF DIAMONDS, GOLD, SILVER, AND COINS

We Buy Diamonds and Antique & Estate Jewelry Antique, Vintage Wrist, and Pocket Watches Antique and Vintage Fine Jewelry | Diamond Jewelry

WEDNESDAYS, FRIDAYS, & SATURDAYS

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Specialty Foods, Dips, Soups, Cheesecakes, Sauces, Mustards, Cheeseball Mixes, Jams, Coffee, Tea, Candy, Spices and Seasonings

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USED JEWELRY BUYER T. Br�an H�ll

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GOLD, SILVER & PLATINUM ARE AT A 25 YEAR HIGH!

Candles, Wreaths, Garland, Baskets, Ornaments, Spreaders, Americana, Primitive Country

708 South Main Street • www.mainstreetmarketplace.com Facebook: Main Street Marketplace in Historic Saint Charles Missouri

636-940-8626

FREE VERBAL APPRAISALS • OVER 22 YEARS EXPERIENCE

$20 CASH

Receive an Extra $20 When You Sell $150 or more

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One coupon per customer. Offer good for gold, silver or platinum. With coupon. Expires 12/31/12.

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500 South 5th St. • St. Charles, MO (next to Dollar General)

636-949-2203 1-877-625-5550

We are looking for Wheat Pennies, Silver Certificates, & Franklin Mint Items!

American Eagles Maple Leafs Krugerrands .999 Silver Bars 1oz., 10oz., 100oz. Bars.

Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2012

23

2012

BUICK VERANO

Suntrup Buick • GMC 4200 N. Service Rd. • I-70 and Cave Springs 639-939-0800 • www.suntrupbpg.com *See dealer for details. Ad vehicle not compatible with any other dealer promotions.

24

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2012

Main Street HAPPENINGS

Gingerbread Village ChristmasTree Lane

Photos With Santa

¬\H_$(R&W ëRùRô$üù Z$ü $ë\ü NWW ¿\•üùZ

Give Your Life A Little More Glow!

Of Saint Charles

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5 OFF

$ 00

On $30 Purchase Now Thru November 21st

TO THANKSGIVING BUFFET 12 5PM

Any Size Party

Call Ann Walters at 636-578-2978

TRY TONY'S STEAK BUTTER TO GO!

Excludes CECE, Caldwell Paint, Solar Products, Select Consignment Products

COUPON with purchase of 2 Beverages 11a.m. til 1:30 p.m. LUNCH BUFFET

319 South Main, Street St. Charles, MO 63301

Tuesdays thru Fridays Only Expires December 31st, 2012

636-946-7711

KERNEL DAVE’S GOURMET

POPCORN

Purchase a Holiday Popcorn Tin

at 24.95 or higher and receive a regular size bag of any gourmet flavor of popcorn $

FREE!

While supplies last. Not to be combined with any other offer. Expires 12/24/12.

Kernel Dave’s Gourmet Pophouse

Little Hills Wine Shop Second Floor 710 S Main Street, St. Charles Mo 63301 • 636.946.9165 www.kerneldaves.com • www.facebook/kerneldave

15

$

99

Tony’s On Main

Tony’s On Main

Closed on Mondays

132 North Main in Historic St. Charles 636.940.1960 • tonysonmain.com

Be a Perfect

Santa

Contemporary Clothing for Misses & Petites

Michelle's

229 North Main Street Historic Downtown St. Charles Mon - Fri : 9:30 - 7 • Sat : 9:30 - 5

(636) 724-0132 Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2012

25

ExEcutivE chEf, PAstARiA

AdAM AltnEthER

WRITTEN By Catherine Neville PhOTOGRAPhy By Jonathan Gayman

Adam Altnether, one of the chef-owners of Craft Restaurant Group and AMA Restaurant Group, was Niche’s chef de cuisine by the age of 22. Soon after, he became executive chef at Brasserie and then bought the Taste name and concept.

“About four months later, Gerard (Craft) and I realized how much we enjoyed and missed working with each other, so we created a partnership between all the restaurants again,” says Althnether. “Now I am the executive chef of Pastaria,” which Eater named one of its 33 most anticipated restaurant openings of 2012.

What is the most surprising dish at Pastaria? The kale salad with pecorino and anchovy dressing. We take a few very common ingredients and prepare them in an uncommon way. Totally what I would order if I came in to eat dinner, and I can’t wait to do that! Personal favorite? The strozzapretti bolognese. This is a recipe based off of a dish we had at a hole in the wall in Modena called Osteria Ermes. Ermes works the front of the house, serving the 15- to 20-seat dining room, and it looked like his wife and her friends were the cooks. We were given a bowl of farfalle bolognese. When we came back, we developed a recipe based around specific flavors that really stood out. How do you unwind? I ride my bike a lot. There’s something about turning on a playlist and getting out there on the road and riding alone for a while, in my own little world.

There are also other nights that I just turn on a movie, pour a glass of rye and smoke a cigar to just clear my head for an hour or two and not think about the restaurants.

It helps me focus the next day on exactly everything that needs to happen. Favorite food memory? Lamb roast in the middle of the desert in Jordan. I was with a couple of my best friends, and we met up with this Bedouin group that was putting on a huge traditional feast. They buried the lamb and everything. We sat around the fire for hours listening to them tell stories and play music.

The second one would have to be the pizza at Da Michele in Naples. Gerard and I were wondering what all the hype was about. So we got there about 30 minutes before they opened and proceeded to wait 2½ hours before we were able to get a pizza. They only offer two pizzas; cheese and extra cheese.

So we got one of each. “Life-changing” would be a good way to describe it. What do you wish people knew about being a chef?

It’s a dedication of your entire life, especially when you move into the ownership side. The workload piled on every day is absolutely incredible. All of my staff is incredibly dedicated, and I wouldn’t be able to get done any of what I get done without them. We’re all at work way too much, but it is because we all love it. Everything becomes worth it when you go through a great service with great teamwork and that last plate leaves the kitchen. It’s such a good feeling. Then we all go home, wake up and do it all over again.

%PG 26

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%MO NOVEMBER %YEAR2012

7743 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton 314.862.6603 pastariastl.com Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Adam Altnether.

Main Street Happenings

CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS November 23 - December 24, 2012 FESTIVAL HOURS: Nov. 23 - 11am - 9pm Wednesdays & Fridays 6:30pm - 9pm Saturdays 11am - 9pm • Sundays noon - 5pm Christmas Eve 11am - 2pm

• Vanilla bean, Cinnamon, Whole Nutmeg • Baking and candy extracts/flavors, Dragees • Pumpkin Pie and Apple Pie Spice, Bakers Amonia

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334 South Main, Historic St. Charles 7 Days A Week

Spices Spices Spices Fresh, Quality Baking Spices at Prices You'll Love.

636-916-3600

www.oldtownspices.com

NOW BOOKING

Special Holiday Parties Shower, Birthday, Office Parties!

• C�eate a stuffed animal at your very own at our STUFFIN STATION

• Miniatu�es fo� SALE • Many GIFT IDEAS • GIFT CErTIFICATES!

FREE Guitar Lessons to Veterans Saturday Mornings at 9:30am with Bill Dennis Open Tuesday-Saturday 11 to 5 329 South Main Street Historic St. Charles, MO

636/946-0505

� � �

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Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2012

27

A WORthY CAndidAtE

STORY AnD ReCIPe BY Matt Seiter PHOTOGRAPHY BY Jonathan Gayman

This month we pay homage to past elections with this dandy of a drink. “Buck and Breck” was the popular nickname for James Buchanan and John C. Breckinridge, the winning candidates in the 1856 U.S. presidential election. As it is today, it was commonplace for candidates to lube up potential supporters with drinks and dinners in an attempt to win the voters’ favor.

According to David Wondrich’s Imbibe!, legendary bartender Jerry Thomas – known as the father of American mixology – claimed the drink as one of his own.

Wondrich points out that the recipe for this concoction was first printed in a San Francisco publication in 1864 – a time when Thomas was in that part of the country.

The original recipe for this drink leaves a lot to be desired. The taste is great, but the mouth feel isn’t quite as pleasant. The recipe begins with instructions to fill a glass with water and empty it. You then “frost” the inside of the glass by placing sugar in the glass and discarding any that doesn’t stick. The drink is mixed in the frosted glass, and sugar granules are the root of the problem. The sweetness is nice, but not the grittiness. So I’ve created a slight variation of the drink to remedy the issue. In this version, you rim a large portion of the outside of the glass with sugar. This way, you as the drinker have control over how much of the granulated sweet stuff goes into each sip. Also, the last few sips aren’t going to be like drinking boozy sand. Garnishing the drink with a lemon peel complements its licorice and cognac flavors.

During the elections this year, whip up a Buck and Breck. Give a toast to Buchanan, probably the worst president in U.S. history, and cheers to the hope that we do better every election year.

Buck and Breck Serves | 1 |

1½ oz 1 dash

RiMMinG GLaSSeS If you want a basic salted or sugared rim for your cocktail, simply cut a wedge of lemon, lime or any other fruit you’re using in the drink and run the flesh around the outside of the glass. Roll the glass in salt or sugar to coat the rim. Turn the glass upside down and tap the bottom to get rid of loose granules.

If you’re rimming a glass with crushed nuts, espresso beans, cocoa nibs or other heavier items, you’ll need a thicker, syrupy substance to hold them on. Let’s make a honey-almond rim. Place a small amount of honey

on a plate. Don’t dip but rather roll the rim of the glass in the honey, so only the outside of the glass comes in contact with it and the honey doesn’t become an ingredient in the cocktail. Hold the glass upside down for a few seconds so the excess honey can fall off and then roll the glass in the crushed almonds. Allow the glass to remain upside down while you assemble your drink. This will allow time for the honey to set rather than run down the sides of the glass as you’re drinking it. Other flavor combos that work well are strawberry sauce and cocoa nibs, cinnamon syrup and cocoa powder, and maple syrup and toasted cashews.

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

28 %PG

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER %MO %YEAR2012

2 dashes

lemon wedge granulated sugar Camus VSOP Cognac North Shore Sirene Absinthe Verte Angostura Bitters Brut Champagne or other sparkling wine lemon peel, for garnish

| Preparation | Rub the flesh of a lemon wedge around the top one-quarter of the outside of a glass. Roll the glass in sugar.

Turn the glass upside down and tap the bottom to remove any loose sugar. Add the cognac, absinthe and bitters to the glass.

Top with Champagne. Twist a lemon peel over the top, give it a quick stir, and serve.

November 23

Holiday Parade of Lights...

The streets of Washington come alive with Christmas as the Light parade rolls through.

November 25

Downtown's Thirsty Thursday & Holiday Shopping Open House

Downtown merchants will provide free wine, beer, or soft drink tastings while you shop for unique treasures for those on your holiday list. Thursday, November 15th.

Olde Fashioned Christmas...

Join Santa and Mrs. Claus for caroling, carriage rides, hot cocoa and cider, and many holiday activities at the downtown Farmers' Market.

The Farmers’ Market Vendors, with fresh,seasonal produce and plants, jams and

jellies, baked goods and crafts can be found April through Dec. (Saturday mornings) at Washington's wonderful covered facility.

December 7

Girlfriends Only! Weekend (Perfect for the deer hunter widows) November

While Santa's sleigh is being tuned-up before the big day, he and Mrs. Claus will arrive in Washington by Amtrak. Meet the jolly couple as they arrive on the 5pm train.

9 - 11 All-inclusive with lodging, meals, scheduled tours and events, games and transportation around Washington.

636-239-2715 WWW.WASHMO.ORG

OLD DUTCH HOTEL & TAVERN

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Come Visit us for the Holidays Let Old Dutch Hotel and Tavern be your location for holiday parties, visiting family or just a night out to relax amidst all your holiday shopping.

Located in downtown Washington Missouri, we are just a couple blocks from the Amtrak Station. Wonder through downtown Washington to add those last little gifts for those special people on your list.

Old Dutch Hotel is a 14 room, totally renovated historic hotel, with all the modern amenities. The Tavern boasts great food for lunch and dinner, and always pleases the beer enthusiasts with over 70 different imports & microbrew beers.

227 Elm St., Washington, MO 63090 636.390.4400 olddutchhotelandtavern.com

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Dine In, Carry Out, Catering and Delivery 323 W. 5th Street Washington, MO 63090 Phone (636)239-3131 Fax (636)239-3139

November 15, Thirsty Thursday - Join downtown Merchants, local wineries, breweries and distilleries from 5-8pm for a fun evening of shopping and sipping!

November 15-17, Holiday Shopping Open House - Holiday shopping all weekend in downtown Washington. Merchants debut their holiday items and unveil their spectacular window displays.

November 23, Holiday Parade of Lights - Come downtown at 6pm to watch the Parade of Lights wind through the streets of downtown Washington. Join us at the corner of Main and Elm Streets for the Mayor's Christmas Tree Lighting directly following the parade, then bring your kids to the Farmers' Market to visit Santa.

November 24, Downtown Cash Mob - The purpose of the mob is to support the smaller local businesses, local economy and the overall community. The exact shop will be a surprise that we will reveal the night before. So join us from 10-11am in downtown Washington!

December 7, Santa on Amtrak - Come to the Washington Train Depot to greet Santa and Mrs. Claus to jump start the Christmas season! The train will arrive at 5pm, with Santa available for pictures inside the Depot upon arrival.

December 9, Holiday House Tour Visit historic homes, the old post Office, and the Festival of trees! Trolley rides between sites available.

Tickets are $10 before November 30, $15 at the door.

December 8, 15, 22, Santa at the Market - Bring your children downtown for a photo with Santa at his house in the Farmers' Market Saturdays in December. $5 per photo. Bring a nonperishable food item for Loving Hearts and receive $1 off your photo.

123 Lafayette Street, P.O. Box 144, Washington, MO 63090 636 -239-1743 Fax: 636-239-4832 events@downtownwashmo.org. www.downtownwashmo.org

Basketcasedeli@yahoo.com WWW.thebasketcasedeli.com

Celebrating Our

18th Year in Business!

123 Front St, Labadie, MO 63055

(636) 451-0004 www.thehawthorneinn.net

Doin' it the natural way TODD GEISERT FARMS Old Hwy 100, Washington, Missouri

Naturally Raised Pork Check out our Holiday Selection of Meats & Sausages

toadspigs.com 314-791-6942

Please join us for our

Annual Holiday Open House Thursday - Nov. 15th 5:00 to 8:00 pm Candlelight & Hors d'oeuvres Friday & Saturday - Nov. 16th & Nov. 17th 10:00 am to 4:00 pm Sunday - Nov. 18th 11:00 am to 3:00 pm (Closed-Sat. Nov. 10th throught Wed. Nov.14th)

We will be Decking All the Halls!

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We look forward to seeing you!

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Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2012

29

top NoVEMBER pICKS

beer

WRITTEN By Michael Sweeney

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

DeSchuteS Brewery’S JuBeLaLe

mezcaL aLiPúS San anDreS

Style: Winter Warmer (6.7% abv)

Provenance: Mexico (45% abv)

available at: Friar Tuck, multiple locations,

available at: Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, parkerstable.com; $49.99 try it: As a replacement in tequila cocktails

While it’s not quite winter, the onset of the holiday season lends itself to drinking a winter beer. Deschutes Jubelale is warm and inviting with a dark, rich malt profile that is both complex and rousing. Each year, the label for Jubelale changes, and the beer itself is as beautiful as the package in which it arrives.

St. LouiS Brewery’S SchLafLy taSmanian iPa (tiPa) Style: American IPA (7.2% abv) available at: Schnucks, multiple locations,

schnucks.com; $8.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) PairingS: Thai yellow curry • Pizza Napoletana After the success of the AIPA, Schlafly had no choice but to provide us with a year-round IPA series. Next up in the series is a taste of the land down under featuring hops from Australia.

These unique hops impart a big citrusy flavor and a bit of spiciness that blend beautifully with the slightly sweet malt body.

Stone Brewing co.’S DouBLe BaStarD

mezcaL aLiPúS San Juan DeL rio Provenance: Mexico (48.4% abv) available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $38.99 try it: With a few drops of cool water and a cigar

The San Juan Del Rio is the most smoke-centric of the three mezcals. The Espadin agave used in this bottling is grown at a lower elevation than the others – 4,600 feet. It features a nice sweetness to balance out the peatlike smoke flavor that makes it similar to scotch. None of these mezcals is barrel-aged, although their complexity may lead some to think so. This complexity makes these craft mezcals great spirits to enjoy solo or as part of a symphony of flavors in a cocktail.

mezcaL aLiPúS San BaLtazar guéLaviLa Provenance: Mexico (48.4% abv)

available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations,

available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $38.99 try it: In place of vodka in a Bloody Mary

Stone Brewing Co. is one of the most arrogant breweries in all of craft beer. Luckily, being one of the best breweries in America is a reason to be arrogant. Double Bastard is a bigger and louder version of their year-round Arrogant Bastard. With a 10.5 percent ABV, expect an assault to your palate with biting bitterness, accompanied by intricate, toasty maltiness.

NOVEMBER 2012

Alipús brings to America three very different bottlings that have been available in Mexico for some time. Each is crafted by a different distiller in the true old-fashioned method of mezcal production. For the money, there are no better mezcals on the shelves. The San Andres is sweet and tangy with a hint of smoke. After multiple tastings, it’s my favorite of the three. Use this to introduce someone new to the world of mezcal and show them what they’ve been missing.

Style: American Strong Ale (10.5% abv)

wineandcheeseplace.com; $6.29 (22-oz bottle) Pairing: Asiago

feastSTL.com

WRITTEN By Chad Michael George

The creator of STLHops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

friartuckonline.com; $9.49 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) PairingS: Roasted pheasant • Apricot scones

30

spirits

Mezcal is lesser known in America than tequila, which is actually a type of mezcal. Tequila, however, is missing mezcal’s trademark smoky notes from baking the agave hearts in pit ovens in the earth, among other production differences.

The San Baltazar is the go-to bottling for showing off that smokiness. The Espadin agave used in this bottling is grown at over 5,700 feet, and the resulting distillate is not only smooth and smoky but also peppery with a touch of sweet fruit.

wine

wRiTTen By Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

RobeRt SInSkey AbRAxAS VIn de teRRoIR 2011 Provenance: Los Carneros, Calif. available at: Brennan’s, 4659 Maryland Ave., Central West End, cometobrennans.net; $40 Pairings: Paella • Curry • Squash

Fostering classic white varieties of Alsace, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Blanc, California’s Robert Sinskey creates Abraxas, a wine unique to its area and vintage that upholds the pure characteristics of the grapes.

Undoubtedly fragrant and elaborately persistent, the blend undergoes stainless-steel aging, preserving the bright pear, lime and lychee tones as well as the invigorating acidity, leaving your mouth watering for more.

Punkt GenAu SPARklInG GRüneR VeltlIneR, n.V. Provenance: Weinviertel, Austria available at: Bottle Cellars, 6039 Telegraph

Road, Oakville; $17.99 Pairings: Roast turkey • Cheeses • Dips Sparkling wines are always a festive choice, but finding unexpected styles can add another element of intrigue. Gruner Veltliner has long been praised by sommeliers as one of the most food-friendly whites thanks to its pronounced acidity and spicy minerality. This unique frizzante version tickles your tongue with notes of apple and hibiscus before coming together in dazzling harmony with the wealth of flavors that find their way onto your holiday plate.

MAISon bleue lA MontAGnette GRenAChe 2010 Provenance: Snipes Mountain, Wash. available at: Saint Louis Wine Market & Tasting Room, 164 Chesterfield Commons E., Chesterfield, stlwinemarket.com; $38 Pairings: Moussaka • Lamb chops • Carne asada

Pure and fresh, this medium-bodied red is bursting with ripe cherry notes rounded out with hints of kirsch, jasmine and muted pepper spice.

Silky tannins intertwined with balanced acidity unfold into a lengthy finish of fruit and minerality.

Admirers of France’s Rhone Valley reds will appreciate this modern, domestic take on Grenache from this Missouri-native winemaker.

Inspired Food Culture

%MO %YEAR2012 NOVEMBER

%PG 31

MEET: FEijOA

WRitten By Erik Jacobs photogRaphy By Jennifer Silverberg

of all the Mystery shopper items demystified to date, none has been quite so “mysterious” as this month’s feature. elusive in its definition, feijoa is also called pineapple guava, though it is neither a pineapple nor a guava. trickier still is pronouncing it. take your pick: fay-ho-ah, fay-yo-ah or fay-jo-ah. pinpointing the flavor of feijoa proves fruitless as well, given that its descriptors include references to strawberry, pineapple, guava, grapes and even mint.

What is it?

about the size and shape of a chicken egg, feijoa fruit grows in subtropical areas where summers are hot and winters are cool. as such, you will not see feijoa trees popping up all over st. louis. Feijoa’s flesh is a bit like a pear, and it has edible seeds and pulp inside. truly ripe feijoas will have a marvelous perfume to them. to eat? Just cut in half and scoop out the pulp. if by chance you do happen along a feijoa tree (or shrub) and see its brilliant flower, pop that in your mouth as well. the petals are said to taste like cinnamon cotton candy. hoW Do i Use it?

the very tastiest feijoas are ripened on the tree. if picked too early, they will not ripen to their full potential. add diced feijoas to fruit salad as the “ringer” that everyone will love but no one will be able to identify. you’ll want to toss them in an acidulated environment (lemon juice), as they will brown easily once sliced. if you get your hands on a large supply, they make wonderful jams and syrups. For an exotic cocktail, try infusing some vodka with fresh feijoa or, if you just can’t wait for that infusion to finish, use feijoa pulp purée in a truly killer margarita.

Crostini with Feijoa, Chiles and Lime

By Kaylen Wissinger, Whisk: a sustainaBle Bakeshop

A little sweetness, a bit of spiciness, something creamy and something crunchy will make this crostini a conversation starter at your next party. If you like things even spicier, experiment by substituting hotter peppers for the jalapeños.

Serves | 16 to 18 | Crostini

2 2 to 3 2 Tbsp

baguettes cloves garlic, peeled and cut in half lengthwise extra-virgin olive oil sea salt

Stop by 32 %PG

feastSTL.com

Chile-lime aïoli

1½ cups 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 1

mayonnaise lime juice zest of 1 lime Dijon mustard red anaheim pepper, seeded and minced

topping

6 2 Tbsp ¾ cup 3 ½ cup

feijoas, peeled and cut in ¼-inch dice fresh lime juice golden raisins jalapeño peppers, seeded and minced coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley

| Preparation – Crostini | preheat oven to 350°F. Cut baguettes on the diagonal into ½-inch-thick slices. Rub both sides with cut garlic

cloves. Brush lightly with olive oil on one side and sprinkle lightly with sea salt. place crostini close together on cookie sheets and bake 4 to 6 minutes. Remove from oven. turn slices and brush with olive oil and sprinkle lightly with salt. Return sheets to oven and bake 6 to 8 minutes longer, until lightly browned. Cool crostini on a rack.

| Preparation – aïoli | in a small bowl, combine mayonnaise with lime juice, zest, mustard and minced peppers and set aside. | Preparation – topping | toss feijoas with lime juice, raisins and finely minced jalapeños. | to assemble | spread aïoli on cooled crostini and top with feijoa mixture. if desired, garnish with chopped parsley. serve immediately.

to pick up more delicious recipes featuring feijoa. Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations.

NOVEMBER %MO %YEAR2012

check it out!

Feast extra

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KOHLS

CARvE A TuRkEY

WRITTEn bY brandon Chuang IllUSTRATIOn bY Derek bauman

This month, millions of people across the country will slave away in their kitchens to pull off that ultimate of epicurean feasts, the Thanksgiving dinner.

And while Grandma’s mashed potatoes and your dad’s green bean casserole may be legendary, everyone knows that no Thanksgiving is complete without the turkey. In the past, your beautiful bird has been laid to waste, minced and mangled as you stumbled your way through serving your loved ones. This year, we’re going to show you how to properly carve up your turkey so that what ends up on the plate is more Rockwell than “Rocky Horror.”

GeT a LeG Up If there’s anything you’ve been doing right this whole time, it’s probably this. | 1 | Simply pull the individual legs back and away from the body, and use a knife to separate them at the joints.

Keep abreaST of YoUr CUTTinG

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In actuality, the turkey tells you exactly how to cut it. | 2 | Inserting your knife into the center of the breast, slice through on one side of the sternum using the breastbone as your guide. The knife will go underneath the breast and come out cleanly near the joint that connected the leg to the carcass.

Repeat on the other side of the breastbone.

This will leave you with two intact pieces of meat that you can then slice against the grain – skin side up – before serving. Want to know how commercials make turkey slices look so good? Exactly like this.

ain’T no ThinG Flipping the turkey over, you’re going to remove the wings in a fashion similar to that used to remove the legs. | 3 | Pull the wings away from the body of the bird and use your knife to separate them at the joint.

foLLow The fowL

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To carve the thigh, the bird should still be chest side down with the neck away from you. (You may want to keep the wing attached, as shown here.) | 4 | Cut directly below the wing joint and let the bones and cartilage direct your movement. Cut down from the wing until you hit the leg joint. Once there, pull the thigh meat apart from the body and cut it from the connecting joint.

You’re still not done. Unlike the breast meat, the thigh has a bone in it. Flipping the whole thigh over, run a parallel line directly next to the thighbone. | 5 | Simply pull the bone out of the thigh. Flip the meat back over, skin side up, and carve against the grain like you did with the breast meat. And now you’re done.

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After all that beautiful butchery, there will still be a bit of meat left on the bone. Add the carcass to a pot of simmering water with salt, onions, celery, carrot and any other aromatics you have lying around. In just a few hours you’ll have a fantastic, scratchmade stock for future soups or sauces.

And while it simmers, you can retire to the sofa for a much-deserved nap.

Family owned and operated since 1967.

We sharpen • Knives • Garden tools • Scissors • Lawn mower blades

• Old fashion rotary mowers • And much much more

Wide selection of Wusthof Knives, Global Knives, Victorinox Knives, AllClad Pans, Capresso Coffee Makers, Atlas Pasta Machines, Emile Henry Bakeware, USA Pan Bakeware, Vic Firth Pepper Mills, and other World Class brands.

Great selection of High end Knives, Cookware, Kitchen tools and gadgets. Great Holiday specials.

Bertarelli Cutlery 1927 Marconi • Saint Louis 314.664.4005

Bertarelli Cutlery

@STLKNIVES

Simply the best Steaks and Seafood Kreis’ serves the finest USDA Prime Mid Western Corn-fed Beef,aged four to six weeks in house. We offer an extensive choice of the classic Steak Cuts and Seafood including our famous Prime Rib. Simply the best available-Top 2%.

As well as Colorado Lamb Chops, the best you can buy!

Bring In This Ad For:

Half off a bottle of Wine from our Wine List.

Discount up to $30

or 20% Off your bill. Discount up to $20 *Valid only with purchases of two dinner entrees. Dine-in only. Not valid on holidays, restaurant special events or with any other discount. See web site for exclusions. Tax and tip not included. Expires 11/30/12.

535 S. Lindbergh • St. Louis • 314.993.0735 • kreisrestaurant.com

Plan Your Holiday Party Now “A Christmas Sleigh-ing” Come celebrate your Christmas this year at the Bissell Mansion Dinner Theatre as we try to unravel the truth behind the song, “Grandma got Run Over by a Reindeer.” Was it a reindeer? Or did someone want the old lady dead and just make it look like a reindeer accident? In all our years of doing murder mystery shows we have found, it’s never the reindeer!

Help Fred Scrooge and Granny track down the killer in this interactive comedy/ murder mystery served with a 4-course meal to DIE for! Ask for a “starring role” or just sit back and guess “whodunit.” Make your reservations now; it would be a CRIME to miss out on this much FUN! Bring in this ad for $10.00 off per person.

Valid thru November, 2012. Not valid for groups.

4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com

Check Out Our New Menu Additions!

Turkish/Mediterranean food is a cross between Southern European, Greek and Middle Eastern cuisines.

Aya Sofia Restaurant and Wine Bar offers a large variety of cold and hot meze (small plates) that are intended to be shared and will complement any of our entrees,including delectable lamb, beef, chicken, and fresh seafood.

Lunch: Tues-Fri Dinner: Tues-Sun Happy Hour: Tues-Fri

Sunday Brunch

NIGHTLY DINNER SPECIALS AVAILABLE FOR PRIVATE PARTIES AND CATERING Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine

Known for our meze (small plates) and excellent wine selection

6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2012

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Mousseline

STory AnD reCIPe by Cassy Vires PhoTogrAPhy by Jennifer Silverberg

The world of charcuterie is vast and can be rather complicated. Fortunately, there are some charcuterie techniques that most home cooks can accomplish with equipment they already own. Mousseline is one of those techniques and is the simplest of the five types of forcemeats, which also include sausages, terrines, pâtés and roulades.

All forcemeats have the same five components: the dominant meat, fat, seasoning, a binding agent and garnish. The primary binding agent is typically a panade, which is one part bread soaked in one part milk. Sometimes a secondary binding agent is required, and this is most commonly eggs.

Mousseline is made from lean, delicate meats; contains cream and eggs; and has a very smooth consistency.

The biggest mistake people make when preparing forcemeats is failure to emulsify the fats into the meat. Luckily, mousseline uses heavy cream as the fat component, so the fat is already emulsified into the cream. Mousselines can be tricky because there is no middle ground. When executed correctly, they are sublime. When done incorrectly, they are awful. There are a few guidelines you can follow to create a successful mousseline: Seasoning. The seasoning must be aggressive. Salt is generally the key ingredient, but pepper and herbs are also important components. Don’t be afraid to season because once your mousseline is done, it’s too late to add seasoning without blemishing the mousse-like consistency.

Temperature. Keep all of the ingredients

Foie Gras Mousseline

and equipment chilled throughout the

This recipe is a bit complicated and calls for aspic and a traditional panade. While achievable in a home kitchen, it requires a bit more attention and time. Measurements must be precise, so get out your kitchen scale and weigh everything.

entire process for best results. The cold temperatures, ideally 40°F or below, not only ensure food safety but also help bind the fats together to create a consistent texture.

Puréeing. Mousselines are typically made in a food processor, and it is vital that the blade be as sharp as possible to avoid mangling the meat. The texture can get rubbery if the protein is overprocessed, not

Yield | 1 quart | 7 oz ¼ oz 12/3 oz 3 oz 11 oz 3 oz 1 oz 1 oz

to mention that large bits of ingredients might escape being puréed.

Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home

2 oz 2 oz

chilled heavy cream, divided powdered gelatin butter chopped shallot foie gras, grade A, cleaned and diced* cognac white wine marjoram salt and freshly ground black pepper egg whites crustless bread, toasted and chopped

| Preparation | Place the bowl of a food processor in the freezer. Pour 2 Tbsp of heavy cream in a small bowl and sprinkle the gelatin on top. Set aside to bloom. In a large skillet, heat the butter until melted. | 1 | Add shallots and foie gras and sauté until soft. Deglaze the

well-combined. Place the mixture in the food processor bowl and | 4 | purée until smooth.

Adjust seasoning and chill until ready to serve. * Foie gras is a very pricey ingredient, so it is best to inspect it well and handle with care. Make sure

pan with the cognac and white wine. | 2 | Add

the packaging is intact and look for any dark

the marjoram and season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside to cool.

foie gras before cleaning by leaving it out at room

In a medium bowl, whisk the remaining cream, egg whites and bread. | 3 | Combine the liver

spots or imperfections on the lobe. Temper the temperature for 1 hour or until it becomes soft. Once soft enough to handle, remove the veins by using tweezers or a sharp knife and then soak in milk in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour before using.

mixture, egg mixture and gelatin and stir until

Wine Kitchen. She received her culinary training in Houston and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

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For a quick-and-easy version of chef Cassy’s foie gras mousseline, visit feastSTL.com.

check it out!

Feast extra

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|4| Inspired Food Culture

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fat SeparatorS

OXO GOOd GRips 4-Cup FAt sEpARAtOR

GOOd COOk FAt sEpARAtOR (2-Cup with stOppER)

PROS

PROS

Form follows function beautifully in this well-designed fat separator. The slope of the pour side and the higher wave top at the pour edge work to maximize good gravy extraction and minimize fat. Push the red stopper in and pull it out with ease. The cushy handle provides a good grip in a slippery situation. Dishwashersafe too.

The perfect size to make enough gravy for a small roast, meatloaf or ovenbaked chicken pieces. The spout stopper slides in easily. The perforated basket that fits into the catch cup strains well and lifts out easily after the pour.

CONS

Good gravy, no worries. Be happy. $14.99; Bed Bath and Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com

CONS

The spout stopper refuses to come out gracefully but gives in after a slight tussle. Its small size can handle parting the fat from a Cornish hen, but don’t expect this Gidget-sized gadget to handle the grease from a goodsized turkey. $9.99; Schnucks, multiple locations, schnucks.com

CAtAMOunt FlAMEwARE GlAss 4-Cup FAt sEpARAtOR PROS

This separator has a saucy shape and is made of borosilicate laboratory glass, with a silicone strainer at the top and a long, lean spout rakishly set on the side. It would be at home in a scientific laboratory. Because the glass is heatresistant, it’s microwave-, stovetop- and dishwasher-safe.

CONS

The spout fills with a bit of grease after the pour. Not too much but more than the other models tested. Catamount cleans up best with soap and water in the sink but requires a skinny bottle brush to clean the spout. $21.95; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, kitchenconservatory.com

WrITTeN BY pat Eby PhoToGrAPhY BY Jonathan Gayman

AMCO EAsy-RElEAsE FAt sEpARAtOR

tRudEAu GRAvy sEpARAtOR

PROS

PROS

The cheery red basket and handle give a retro-kitchen cachet to this gizmo. Love the idea that a squeeze of the handle releases healthy stock from an opening at the bottom of the cup. The cup clearly shows the point where the grease begins so you can stop the flow.

Squat, solid and straightforward, this separator sits squarely on the counter during all pours. The top edge cants back into the cup on each side of the spout to stop grease spills. Trudeau rings in as the least expensive 4-cup separator and it works well, leaving most of the fat in the cup après-pour.

Microwave- and dishwasher-safe.

CONS

Alas, the idea doesn’t hold water, gravy or stock. The hole in this bucket doesn’t close solidly. The model tested suffers from poor quality control with an obvious missed connection at the top of the handle. Pinning it doesn’t slow the dribble. The first pour was a little messy.

I thought I’d overpoured the opening, but two tries with a full separator placed in a bowl clearly showed liquid taking its leave way too soon.

Thanksgiving, you need a separator with an opening that is big enough to easily collect them. Less mess, less stress.

must settle for five to eight minutes before you begin the grease pouroff, so choose a size based on how much gravy you plan to make and how long you’ve got to mess around with it before dinner.

STabiliTy aNd gRiP: Make sure the base of the separator is wide enough

to stay firmly in contact with the counter during the transfer of hot liquids from the pan. And gauge the height in relation to arm reach. A too-

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$12.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, kitchencopia.com

Che tall separator could tip grease all over the kitchen. Make sure to check for a secure grip too.

POuR-Off PeRfORmaNCe: You want most, if not all, of the grease to stay

CaPaCiTy: Separators come in two sizes: 2-cup and 4-cup. The contents

Very hot liquid sucks the basket against the sides of the cup. Jostling a full, hot container to dislodge the basket can be nerve-wracking. With cooler liquid, however, the strainer lifted out easy-asyou-please.

$15.95; Sur la Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com

whAt tO lOOk FOR : TaRgeT POuR ZONe: When you’re wrestling with pan drippings on

CONS

in the separator and out of gravy and stock. Models without a stopper to create a vacuum in the spout allow grease to flow into the spout and then into your gravy. eaSe Of CleaNuP: Plastics seem to be the material of choice for fat separators, but glass and ceramic models do exist. You’ll need elbow grease and a good detergent to remove animal-fat residue from plastic.

Glass doesn’t grab the oiliness nearly as much.

Ck o pag ut e

34!

Learn how to properly carve the turkey that gave you all those delicious drippings for your gravy in this month’s How To column.

A Word from Gerard's St. Louis Gerard's has been offering the finest continental cruisine to the St. Louis area since 1995.

We serve only the best Steaks, Chops, and Seafood available as well as imported pasta from Italy.

With over 600 Wines from around the world, Gerard's was one of 443 restaurants worldwide to receive the Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator for the 13th year.

Private Room available for parties up to 35 Book Your Holiday Party Now! Please support locally owned restaurants Look us up at www.stlgerards.com

1153 Colonnade Center • DesPeres • 314.821.7977 • stlgerards.com

Organic Produce Delivered To Your Door You can have a box delivered every week or every other week for as little as $25. We offer a variety of box sizes to choose from. For more details, please visit our website ConniesGreenGrocery.com.

Sign-Up today and enter the promo code to save $12 towards your registration fee.

Promo Code: Feast11 Offer Expires: November 30th, 2012

636.498.2500 • ConniesGreenGrocer y.com

Deserves It Because She

We can restyle or custom design your jewelry BRIDAL • Contemporary and Vintage Styles DIAMOND JEWELRY • Pendants, Earrings & Bracelets LOOSE DIAMONDS • Any Shape - Any Size DIAMOND REPLACEMENT Onsite Jewelers While-U-Wait Repairs (most within the hour) WE BUY GOLD

IL: St. St. Clair Square (Across•from Victoria’s Secret) • Fairview • Clair Square Fairview Heights, IL •Heights 618.624.3900 • The Shoppes at Cross Keys • Florissant, MO • 314.839.8100 • jcthejeweler.com

Oishi in Japanese means Delicious You only have to visit Oishi once to understand why.

Experience the entertainment and masterful cooking all right in front of you.

Try our Lobster Roll which is the "First Lobster roll in Saint Louis."

Fresh food prepared daily Great place for Family Entertainment Happy Hour Specials Private Rooms Birthday Specialty

15% off your meal *Must be on Hand and can’t be combined with any other promotional specials.

Valid only at the chesterfield location, not including drinks. Expires Nov. 30th, 2012

100 Public Works Dr. • Chesterfield • 636.530.1198 • oishistl.com Inspired Food Culture

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39

ITAlIAn IndulgEncE Zeppole, sweet fried Italian treats, are a simplified version of donuts and are traditionally enjoyed in Italy on St. Joseph’s Day – a celebration of plenty with feasts and fancy foods. Zeppole are made from pâte à choux, or choux pastry. This is what profiteroles, cream puffs and gougères are made from as well.

Unlike a bombolone, a filled donut that employs yeast to rise, pâte à choux uses steam from the high moisture content of its ingredients.

To complement this tasty Italian dessert, we’ve built a menu that draws from different regions of Italy to create a palate-pleasing, indulgent meal.

Caponata’s sweet and sour fruit components complement the delectable, rich and earthy tones of dry-aged strip steak. Creamy polenta, from Italy’s northern regions, is rounded out with a bite of sharp pecorino. This hearty dinner is finished off with zeppole – a surprisingly light ending to delight your sweet tooth and leave you abundantly satisfied.

italian Donuts and Vanilla ice cream Serves | 6 to 8 |

| Preparation – Vanilla Ice Cream | In a

Vanilla ice cream

1½ cups 1 cup ½ cup 1 1 pinch

heavy cream half-and-half sugar vanilla bean, scraped kosher salt

Donuts

½ cup 2 cups 1 Tbsp 1/8 tsp 2 cups 6

butter water sugar salt zest of 1 lemon flour eggs vegetable oil or canola oil, for frying granulated sugar or powdered sugar, for dusting

Garnish

balsamic reduction

large bowl, combine the heavy cream, half-andhalf, sugar, vanilla scrapings and salt. Mix until well-combined. Add the mixture to your ice cream machine and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. When machine is finished, scrape out the ice cream into a separate container and freeze for 1 hour.

| Preparation – Donuts | In a medium saucepan set over low heat, add the butter, water, sugar, salt and lemon zest. Once the butter is melted, bring the mixture to a boil. Add the flour, remove from heat and mix vigorously until the flour is well-incorporated and a film begins to appear on the bottom of the pan. Pour the contents of the pan into a large mixing bowl. Once the mixture is slightly cooled, begin adding your eggs, one at a time, fully incorporating before adding another.

Cover the surface of the mixture with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, add at

With lightly floured hands, turn batter onto a lightly floured surface. It will be sticky. Gently roll batter out to about ¼- to ½-inch thick. Dip a 2- to 3-inch cookie cutter in flour and stamp out circles.

Then dip a ½- to 1-inch cookie cutter in flour and stamp smaller circles out of the center of the larger ones. If you do not have cookie cutters, use the mouth of a glass or jar, or work small portions of batter into 5- to 6-inch-long and ½-inch-thick ropes and shape donuts by hand.

Gently drop the donuts into the oil and fry 3 to 4 minutes per side or until golden-brown.

Carefully remove from oil with a slotted spoon and place on a sheet pan lined with paper towels.

Dust with granulated sugar or powdered sugar or leave plain.

| To Serve | Place a scoop of vanilla ice cream in a bowl with 2 to 3 donuts. Drizzle with balsamic reduction and serve.

least 3 inches of oil to a pot and heat to 375ºF.

chef’S TipS : Keep it cool. Don’t skip or skimp on refrigerating the batter for at least 30

minutes before cutting into donuts. For you to be able to manipulate the batter into a typical donut shape, it needs to be cold and firm. If you’re not concerned with the shape, you can forget the fridge, place the freshly mixed batter into a piping bag and carefully squeeze 2- to 3-inch logs into the oil. chanGinG shape. If you want to make a healthier dessert, bake the batter

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instead of frying. you will ultimately have a profiterole or cream puff, sans the cream. Simply pipe the batter onto parchment-lined sheet trays and bake until golden-brown.

Winterize it. Want to make something more seasonal? Add a small diced

apple to the choux batter and as soon as you take the donuts out of the oil, toss them in a mixture of cinnamon and sugar for a sweetly spiced winter treat.

STOry AnD reCIPe by Tory Bahn PhOTOGrAPhy by Jennifer Silverberg

JOIN US! RSVP:

schnuckscook s.com 314.909.1704

make the

meal: Seared Dry-Age d Strip Steak with Cap onata ○ Cre amy Pecorino Polenta ○ Ital ian Donuts an d Vanilla Ice Cre am ○

learn mOr

e: Attend our coo king class and learn to co ok steak to perfection in cast-iron; different ways to prepare and serve polen ta; how to make pâte à ch oux for various sweet and savory applications; an d how to make an easy no-cook, eggless ice crea m. ○

get hands-on: Join Feast and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., nov. 28, at 6pm to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine.

RsVP at schnuckscooks.com.

Inspired Food Culture

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41 %PG

Authentic Mediterranean Chesterfield’s only authentic Mediterranean restaurant offering popular favorites such as: falafel, hummus, gyros, stuffed grape leaves, grilled meat kabobs, Moroccan cigars and kubbeh.

All whole foods, natural ingredients.

Open for lunch & dinner Tues – Sat. Catering and private parties also available.

Enjoy selections from our dinner menu and save $10 on your check of $50 or more.* *Not including tax and tip. Cannot be combined with other offers.

Expires Dec. 1, 2012.

703 Long Road Crossing Drive • Chester field • 314.536.2101 • themedgrillstl.com

Oceano Bistro now in Chesterfield & Clayton!

Sunday Night Fish Trio: Enjoy three of your favorites on Sunday night at Oceano Bistro Chesterfield for $25.00.

Seabass, Salmon and Scallops, served with your choice of Salad or Soup.

Sunday Brunch is 10:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.

Enjoy some of your Oceano favorites along with our unique take on traditional brunch items from Lemon Ricotta Pancakes, Biscuits and Gravy, Eggs Benedict “Oscar”, made to order Omelettes and Banana Bread French Toast to Maryland Lump Crab Cakes and Grilled Jumbo Sea Scallops.

We have something to appease every palate.

Monday - Thurdsay 11:00-10:00 pm Friday - Saturday 11:00-11:00 pm, Sunday 10:00 - 9:00 pm

16125 Chesterfield Parkway West • Chesterfield • 636.536.9404 • 44 N. Brentwood • Clayton • 314.721.9400 • oceanobistro.com

20% OFF*Lunch & Dinner Join us for our Thanksgiving Buffet from 11am - 4pm. Call for reservations (no coupons allowed).

Booking Holiday Parties.

Let us cater your next special event.

OPEN Monday - Friday 11AM - 2PM for Lunch Monday - Sunday 5PM - Close for Dinner

Expires November 30th, 2012 *Up to 5.00 Off on Lunch up to $20 Off on Dinner.

10411 Clayton Rd. • Suite III • Frontenac • 314.432.8585 • branicafrontenac.com

Chicken Dinner Sundays Buy one chicken dinner Get one chicken dinner FREE Expires November 30, 2012. Dine-in only.

114 W. Mill St. • Waterloo, IL • 618.939.9933 • gallagherswaterloo.com 42

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Cipollini Onion Confit recipe on p. 56

a chef’s thanksgiving hef on exciting c y r a r o an hon ou plan an elaborate andt the end s i e n o y ay. Y he dreaded cleanup a of the Ever D g n i v i t s g Thankspacked house and tacklef what it’s like in the shooew, putting

te o h sh ost a tiny tas a smoot menu, h it all. all get a unning r e r W o . f t s touch to h t l e ig a r n n c o e e s s h r t e ir of gap new the bringin nly we k ble and a t e h pros. If o t es on pert tive dish share ex o imagina t s f e h ay cal c al holid ed on lo d person e’ve call n w a r s a e e y ip rec ing This anksgiv morable her a Th tips, me t g e g in o t t s t o h “chef.” ou pu to help y lling you a ll c a , s t s s ie e gu stor ave your at will h h t l a e m

1.

Chef Cass y Vir her s es sh tep-b ares y-ste to ho p guid sting e Than ksgiv i n g Chef Ange l a Kom up n ew id is co eas f oks or le ftove rs Loca l foo d fam their ilies favor shar ite d e esse rts

2.

3.

at home with chef cassy WrITTEn By Cassy Vires

|

PhoTograPhy and STylIng TIPS By Jennifer Silverberg

day. i l o h , rite ? But

favored around foody and y m s mil nte ing i ay ce for fa

giv ve an entire d at. It’s a time other. (OK, yes, s k n th lo h Tha than esn’t y eac o enjo more chef d e and bout l a b a s What i t e ay nd th , the d r arou to me e h t a g ds to ef, d too!) frien nal ch at foo o e i r s g s e y is a njo rof inner and e or a p f d a t g a n h i ating giv nk t anks ut cre h ht thi B g T . i l k u r m sf whole wo You ucces res a ay at i s d u a l q a g e c r in pi d no me creat st a ty n. An at ho u o j i s t – e a n k z o i al loved organ cakew nu. al for g and e n i m n ng me l i n a n a i l c n p e u f t p s be a s evel o rent l has to e r e diffe h t, t r wha matte

For me, it starts with a theme. This year, my inspiration was a rustic yet elegant Southern-inspired Thanksgiving feast that would make the food lovers on my guest list swoon. Beginning with the centerpiece of the meal, I decided right away that I wanted to avoid turkey.

Sure, it’s a classic, but a game bird offers more flavor options and brings something new and unexpected to the Thanksgiving table. From there, the puzzle pieces began to fall into place.

Each dish needed to be a holiday classic given an exciting twist to keep guests on the tiptoes of their taste buds. The mashed potatoes have roasted apple, the bread pudding is savory and the gravy has maple syrup. In this aspect, every dish shares the spotlight, offering one pleasant surprise after another.

To make the celebration complete, I enlisted the expert help of family and friends. My husband, Josh, gathered a few wines to complement the menu, and my photographer friend Jennifer Silverberg set the scene with some professional styling tricks.

From chef to home cook, the best advice I can give you is to enjoy yourself.

Preparing Thanksgiving dinner should be a pleasure, not a chore. Put on some music, pour a glass of wine and relish in this celebration of family, friends and, most decidedly, food.

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Styling Tip: Choose a single icon that represents the season and can easily weave its way through your Thanksgiving experience.

Pears fit the bill for this event. And the brown and ivory papers of the invitation kept with our desired color palette. I recommend staying monochromatic but incorporating a couple different textures into invitations. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a big fan of simplicity.

Inspired Food Culture

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the menu: Appetizers ○ ○

Cheese Plate Red Wine Bagna Cauda with Crudites

stArters ○ ○

Plated Salads Bacon Muffins with Maple Butter

MAin Dish ○

Hay-Roasted Pheasant with Orange and Baking Spice

siDes Roasted Root Vegetables Cipollini Onion Confit ○ Wild Mushroom Bread Pudding ○ Roasted Garlic and Apple Mashed Potatoes ○ ○

sAuces ○ ○

Cranberry Sauce Maple-Balsamic Gravy

Dessert ○

Chocolate-Fig Tart with Cinnamon Cream

how to create a successful menu: Keep Your Guests in MinD. If you have a picky eater, consider skipping the blue cheese on the salad.

If you have a vegetarian, avoid the temptation to put bacon in everything.

They will certainly appreciate getting to eat as many of the dishes as possible.

eDit Yourself. While making a soufflé for dessert would be amazing, the burden of doing so would be overwhelming. Keep your menu manageable. Remember, you should enjoy the experience as much as your guests.

Wine 101. Select wines that pair well with as many items as possible and avoid dishes that don’t go well with wine, such as asparagus or pickles.

Sty ling Tip :

F colo or the p rs a nd a lace se was ttin m ac ix g soo n be lear de of tex s, natu t inc ral c u c is ome re orp a bu ion for s and ora to ted and sy t wha col ab t wo nes u uld nap sing tw ors fro le. The k mt i he i napkin and in ring ne fro mt nvi s sw visu h ta a e in wer ally co s both vite tions, em ine nsi s fo st x ade r by i ent. P pensiv out lace nse e leaf rti ca a into nd bra ng a cu rds ss p tred in pea rs.

timeline: As soon As Possible Create your guest list, send invitations and mark the date, plus a few days before, on your calendar. ○ Write your menu and start sourcing specialty ingredients.

Check local markets right away for the availability of pheasant. If you can’t find it, we have an online source listed with the recipe. ○

Tidy the house. Don’t wait until the day of; you will have much better things to do tomorrow! ○ Lay out your clothes. I don’t know about you, but it takes me forever to pick out an outfit. Don’t wait until the big day to start rummaging through the closet.

You may never make it out! ○ Get some sleep. You are going to need it. ○

3 dAys before ○

Create a to-do list for the upcoming days and don’t leave anything out. Need to get the dogs groomed? Make sure it is on that list. Want to do a deep cleaning of the house? Write it down. And don’t forget to delegate. There is no shame in asking for help.

2 dAys before Make your grocery list and hit the store. Don’t forget to pick up some pre-made items for Thanksgiving day breakfast and lunch. They will come in handy. ○ Make the chocolate-fig tart, cranberry sauce and maplebalsamic gravy, which can all be made well in advance. It will relieve some of the day-of stress to know you have three items checked off your list! ○ Make your centerpieces, menu cards, name tags and any other decorations. ○

1 dAy before Make a prep list. List everything that needs to be made so you don’t realize at the last minute that you forgot the rolls. My mom always forgot the rolls! ○ Select serving platters and bowls and label each of them with what they will contain. ○ Set the table. ○

dAy of Get an early start. It is much better to be done early than late. To make this particular meal, I started at 10am and was never in a hurry.

Dress comfortably and enjoy your time in the kitchen. ○ Get organized. Clear off counter space, set up a prep station and preheat the oven. ○ Start with the appetizers. Having these done and out of the way ensures that when your guests walk in the door, they will have food ready and waiting for them. ○ Chill the wine. ○ Hang the prep list on the fridge and get a pen ready. Crossing items off is very rewarding. ○ Prioritize the prep list with No.s 1, 2 and 3 and tell yourself that group 1 must be completed by “X” time and the same with groups 2 and 3. ○ 10am: Make maple butter and vinaigrette (see Creating a Memorable Salad, p. 53) . ○ 10:30am: Prepare bacon muffin batter, but don’t bake it. ○ 11am: Roast root vegetables and make mashed potatoes. ○ Noon: Start the cipollini onion confit and prepare the wild mushroom bread pudding, but don’t bake it. ○ 12:45pm: Break for lunch. ○ 2pm: Take a shower and get dressed. ○ 4pm: Start putting pre-made sides in pots and pans to be reheated right before service. ○ 4:30pm: Stuff and season the pheasant and set aside until ready to roast; bake muffins and bread pudding. ○ 5pm: Reheat bagna cauda and put the finishing touches on the appetizers; set them out so they’re ready when guests arrive. ○ 5:30pm: Be present to answer the door and greet guests. ○ 6pm: Excuse yourself from the appetizers and return to the kitchen to finish the meal and put the pheasant in the oven. ○ 6:30pm: Serve the plated salads and bacon muffins. ○ 7pm: Serve pheasant and sides and sit down to enjoy your time with friends and family. This is what Thanksgiving is all about! ○

Inspired Food Culture

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putting together a cheese plate: Limit yourseLf to three to four cheeses. Pick cheeses that differ from one another but also complement each other. Enhance your cheese board with some spiced nuts, jam and fresh bread, and make it even more special by creating labels for the cheeses. soft . A fresh chèvre is ideal. Give it a special touch by rolling the goat cheese in crushed pistachios with dried lavender. Recommended: Baetje Farms Couer de la Crème Plain

semisoft. A sweet or savory Brie is a good semisoft choice, as everyone loves Brie, but reach for something that is a bit unexpected and has more body and savory flavor than a traditional French triple-cream. Recommended: Jacobs & Brichford Arabella stinky. Not everyone loves blue cheese, but those of us who do really love it. Select one that is on the mild side, as it will pair better with the wine and not overwhelm the palate.

Recommended: Hook’s Cheese Co. Little Boy Blue hard. Hard cheeses bring a nice salt component to a cheese plate and pair well with Champagne. Just remember to cut these cheeses for your guests ahead of time to avoid any knife mishaps. Recommended: Marcoot Jersey Creamery Heritage

Red Wine Bagna Cauda with Crudites Serves | 8 to 10 | 1 bottle ¼ cup 6 cloves 1 1½ cups

dry red wine, reduced by half white anchovy fillets garlic, minced lemon, zested and juiced olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper assorted blanched vegetables (carrot, radish and green bean)

| Preparation | In a blender or food processor, combine reduced red wine, anchovies, garlic, lemon zest and lemon juice. With the motor running, slowly add the olive oil in a steady stream until emulsified. Place the mixture in a small saucepot and gently warm. Season with salt and pepper and serve warm with vegetables for dipping.

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NOVEMBER 2012

51

Bacon Muffins with Maple Butter Yield | 12 small or 6 large muffins | 2 slices 2 cups 2¼ tsp ½ tsp 2 Tbsp 1 1 cup 8 oz ¼ cup

bacon all-purpose flour baking powder kosher salt light brown sugar egg milk unsalted butter, room temperature maple syrup

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 425°F. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin. Cook the bacon in a small skillet until crisp.

Remove and chop. Reserve 2 Tbsp of the bacon fat and set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, light brown sugar and chopped bacon. Add the egg, milk and bacon fat and stir to combine. The mixture will be thick, sticky and slightly lumpy. Drop batter by spoonfuls into the greased muffin tin, filling each cup 2/3 full, and bake for 20 minutes, or until lightly browned.

In a small bowl, stir together butter and maple syrup. Serve muffins with maple butter on the side.

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creating a memorable salad: Oftentimes the salad Gets fOrGOtten. Some store-bought mixed greens get thrown together with a bottled vinaigrette and perhaps some cheese and nuts. But salad can be the dish people are talking about the next day if you just take the time to make it great.

Great Greens. Don’t just go for the prepackaged stuff. Take the time to pick a few nice varieties. Red oak, mizuna, mâche and bibb are all great options.

sweet & salty. Find one sweet item and one salty item to counteract each other.

If you want to use a sweet vinaigrette, add some salted nuts. If you want to use glazed nuts, add a salty cheese.

CrunCh! A great salad has great crunch. Whether you use nuts, croutons or seeds, make sure there’s something crunchy mixed in. yOur Very Own VinaiGrette. Making a vinaigrette is so simple. Just select an oil and a vinegar you like and remember 3-to-1. Mix three parts oil to one part vinegar and you have a tasty homemade vinaigrette.

PresentatiOn. Thanksgiving is mostly a family-style meal, but add some pizazz by serving your guests a plated salad. Trust me, they will enjoy the special touch.

Styling Tip: It was decided straight away that we needed a removable centerpiece that could make room for all the food coming to the table. We achieved this with a segmented approach. Simple jars of varying heights held natural dried wheat.

On each side of the wheat were small wooden crates filled with leftover hay from Cassy’s pheasant dish and decorative gourds for accents.

Inspired Food Culture

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Hay-Roasted Pheasant with Orange and Baking Spice Serves | 4 to 6 | 1 1 tsp 1 tsp 1 tsp 1 tsp 1 tsp 1 tsp 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 2 3 6 1 Tbsp 2 Tbsp

4-lb pheasant* ground allspice ground cardamom ground cinnamon ground cloves ground ginger ground nutmeg kosher salt freshly ground black pepper large oranges, quartered hay, as needed** cinnamon sticks whole star anise whole cloves olive oil

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 450°F. Rinse the pheasant under cold running water and set out to airdry. Combine the ground spices, salt and pepper and generously season the pheasant. Stuff the pheasant with orange wedges, reserving a few. Set aside.

Rinse the hay under cold water and then soak it for at least 15 minutes. Heat a large roasting pan on the stove top. Once it’s hot, add handfuls of the hay and cook until slightly charred and smoking. Place the pheasant on top of the hay and sprinkle remaining oranges, cinnamon sticks, star anise and cloves around the bird. Very carefully cover with aluminum foil or a lid and place in the oven for 20 to 30 minutes, or until an internal temperature of 150°F has been reached.

Carefully remove the foil and drizzle the pheasant with the olive oil. Roast, uncovered, for an additional 10 to 15 minutes or until an internal temperature of 165°F has been reached. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 15 to 20 minutes before serving. * Pheasant can be difficult to find at local retailers. Visit the Gourmet Poultry section of dartagnan.com to order pheasant online. ** Hay is commonly sold at grocery stores during the fall.

wine selections: Pre-Dinner ChamPagne Nicolas Maillart Brut 1er Cru Platine, NV. The Maillart Platine is a perfect pre-dinner sparkler because of its well-balanced acidity. It has the rich, substantial texture of premier cru Champagne balanced with tart notes of apple and pear. The tartness makes it a great counter to the creamy fat of the cheese course.

White With Dinner Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Turckheim 2010. This Riesling is the perfect pair for our Hay-Roasted Pheasant. The slight honey-sweetness of the wine (thanks to a small amount of noble rot) plays well with the orange and cinnamon, yet there is plenty of acidity to cut through the richness of the bird. The fruit is always up front with this wine, which actually finishes fairly dry.

reD With Dinner Dom. Chauvenet-Chopin Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers 2008. The Nuits-SaintGeorges is a great main-course wine for our Thanksgiving menu. It pairs remarkably well with several of the dishes, most notably the roasted pheasant, the Cipollini Onion Confit and the Wild Mushroom Bread Pudding. The wine has great structure and plenty of dark fruit notes of black cherry and currant. This wine would be even more incredible a few years down the road. Even with its relative youth, this is a tasty special-occasion wine.

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Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2012

55

Roasted Root Vegetables Serves | 8 | 3 lbs 4 4 sprigs 1 head ½ cup

assorted fall vegetables (squash, carrots, Brussels sprouts, turnips) lemons, quartered rosemary garlic, peeled and smashed olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 450°F. Toss all of the ingredients in a large roasting pan and roast, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until soft and cooked through. Discard rosemary stems before serving.

Cipollini Onion Confit Pictured on p. 44

Yield | 3 cups | 3 Tbsp 12 oz 1/3 cup ¾ cup 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp ¼ cup 1 cup

olive oil small cipollini onions sweet vermouth water red wine vinegar sugar pine nuts, toasted currants salt and freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation | Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan. Add the onions and cook gently until soft but not brown. Add the vermouth and cook until mostly reduced. Add water, vinegar, sugar, pine nuts and currants. Season with salt and pepper and simmer over low heat for 2 hours, stirring often. Once the mixture is caramelized and deep amber in color, remove from heat.

Serve at room temperature.

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NOVEMBER 2012

Roasted Garlic and Apple Mashed Potatoes Serves | 8 to 10 | 4 lbs 2 heads 4 2 Tbsp

2 cups 3 Tbsp

red potatoes garlic, peeled Red Delicious apples, cored and chopped olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper milk unsalted butter

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. Place the potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold water. Season with salt and boil over medium heat until fork-tender. Strain and set aside. In a small roasting pan, combine the garlic, apples and olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Wrap with aluminum foil and roast for 15 to 20 minutes or until soft. Return the potatoes to the pot and add the roasted apple mixture. Add the milk and butter and smash until wellmashed but still lumpy. Adjust seasoning and serve warm.

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is hiring!

Passionate about St. Louis’ culinary scene?

Seeking an opportunity to become part of a growing, dynamic brand?

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Email your cover letter, resume and references to Catherine Neville at

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Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2012

57

Wild Mushroom Bread Pudding Serves | 8 to 10 | 1 Tbsp 1½ lbs 4 3 cloves ¼ cup

4 2 cups 4 cups

olive oil assorted wild mushrooms shallots, chopped garlic, chopped chopped rosemary salt and freshly ground black pepper eggs heavy cream brioche, cut into large cubes

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease individual cast-iron or ceramic ramekins. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet. Sauté the mushrooms until soft and liquid has been released and evaporated.

Add the shallot, garlic and rosemary and continue to cook until soft and fragrant. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

In a large bowl, beat the eggs until smooth. Add the heavy cream and mushroom mixture and stir until well-combined. Add the brioche and toss until the bread has soaked up all of the cream mixture. Divide evenly among ramekins and bake until firm, about 20 minutes. Serve hot.

Cranberry Sauce

Maple-Balsamic Gravy

Yield | 2 cups |

Yield | 2 cups |

12 oz 5 oz ½ cup ¼ cup

2 Tbsp 4 4 Tbsp ½ cup ½ cup ½ cup

fresh cranberries dried figs, halved sugar dry red wine

| Preparation | In a small saucepan, combine all ingredients and cook over low heat until most of the cranberries have burst, about 15 minutes.

Transfer cranberry sauce to a small bowl. Let cool, cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.

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NOVEMBER 2012

butter shallots, finely chopped flour water maple syrup balsamic vinegar

| Preparation | Melt the butter in a medium sauté pan over medium heat. Sauté the shallots in the butter until soft. Add the flour and whisk to combine. Whisk in the water, maple syrup and balsamic vinegar. Cook until thick and reduced and then purée until smooth. Serve warm.

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NOVEMBER 2012

59

Chocolate-Fig Tart with Cinnamon Cream Yield | one 9-inch tart | 1 1/3 cups 1/3 cup 3 oz 2 Tbsp 12 oz 2½ cups 2 tsp 8 2 Tbsp 2 tsp

all-purpose flour sugar softened butter milk bittersweet chocolate heavy cream, divided corn syrup fresh black Mission figs powdered sugar ground cinnamon

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. In a small bowl, combine flour and sugar and mix with a fork. Cut the butter into small chunks and sprinkle over the flour mixture. Use two forks to mix the butter and flour mixture until crumbly and slightly dry. Slowly add the milk and stir until just combined. Form into a ball and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. Roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface and gently place in a removable-bottom tart pan. Prick the dough with a fork and bake in the oven until golden-brown. Set aside.

Using a double boiler, melt the chocolate and 1½ cups cream together until smooth. Stir in the corn syrup and then slowly pour into the tart shell. Let sit for 5 minutes.

Slice the figs in half lengthwise. Once the tart has set slightly, arrange the figs, flesh side up, in an attractive manner. Refrigerate until ready to serve, but let it sit at room temperature for 10 minutes before serving.

Meanwhile, combine remaining cream, powdered sugar and cinnamon in a medium bowl and whisk until soft peaks form.

Serve tart garnished with cinnamon cream.

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behind-the-scenes video!

Scan the tag to watch photographer Jennifer Silverberg style and shoot this beautiful spread in this in-depth video, or watch the video in the Multimedia section at feastSTL.com.

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take 2: leftovers that impress recipes by Angela Komis

|

photography and styling tips by Jennifer Silverberg

Faux Caesar Salad with Bacon Croutons This is a delicious take on the original Caesar salad with much less fuss. Serve it with the Open-Face Artichoke Sandwich (see recipe, p. 65) for a light and tasty lunch.

Serves | 4 | Croutons

2 Tbsp 4

oil from Bagna Cauda (see recipe, p. 50) Bacon Muffins (see recipe, p. 52)

Faux Caesar Dressing

s are ay D dishe g , d e n r i giv e table is clea gh of relief, the s k n Tha lose and th n breathe a si e leftovers? n e h W o a cfeel your kitchedo with all thes y t s e urke o we com d you can hat d less t d :W ed an on en rises r wash kend ays a e d you w e l w a ela the ion exten t , t s s u e e o f Ang u d g e i q y ch livin ved s b f a . s o e w d o a cip icr menu Inste ese re ssy’s and m h a t s C e h f t h i he ic tion w rom c sandw lebra ems f e t c i r y r e a ov culin se left hat u t s i Kom

½ cup 3 Tbsp 2 tsp 1½ tsp 1 tsp

Bagna Cauda (see recipe, p. 50) sour cream lemon juice Dijon mustard freshly ground black pepper

salaD

1 head ½ cup

leaf lettuce, rinsed and dried Arabella cheese, finely shredded (see cheese plate section, p. 50) kalamata olives for garnish

| Preparation – Croutons |

Remove bagna cauda from refrigeration and allow it to come back to room temperature. Heat oven to 400ºF. Using a serrated bread knife, cut the bacon muffins into 1-inch cubes. The bagna cauda will have separated. The oil will have risen to the top and the other ingredients will have fallen to the bottom. Drizzle the cubes with 2 Tbsp oil and toss to

continued on p. 64

Styling Tip:

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Have to-go containers on hand. There are various options at places such as The Container Store that are lined for food so you’re not using a paper box that will be a mushy mess by the time your guests get home. We made a little sticker for ours that used the same font from the invitations and tied them with twine.

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63

leftover recipes coat evenly. Place the cubes on a baking sheet and bake about 10 minutes or until golden-brown and toasted. Toss the croutons after 5 minutes to ensure even toasting. Remove and set aside.

| Preparation – Faux Caesar Dressing |

Whisk the bagna cauda to reincorporate all ingredients. Add reincorporated bagna cauda to a blender with remaining ingredients. Purée about 2 minutes or until all ingredients come together to create a loose dressing.

1 2 sheets 1 1 Tbsp

10-oz bag frozen peas, thawed frozen puff pastry, thawed egg milk

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350ºF. Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat. Slowly add the flour while whisking to work out any lumps. Add garlic and let simmer about 3 to 5 minutes, whisking constantly. Slowly add chicken stock and continue to whisk constantly. Add parsley, salt, pepper and

| Preparation – Salad | Chop leaf lettuce into bite-size pieces.

nutmeg. Simmer about 10 minutes, until the stock thickens. Fold

Drizzle with dressing 2 Tbsp at a time until you reach your desired consistency. Toss with cheese and croutons. Top with olives and serve.

in the roasted vegetables, pheasant, pearl onions and peas.

Reduce heat to warm.

Lay the puff pastry on a lightly floured surface. Place one 6-inch

Pheasant and Roasted Root Vegetable Pot Pie

crock upside down on the dough. Cut around the mouth of the crock with a sharp paring knife, creating a circle slightly larger than the crock. Repeat to make 4 circles.

This is a recipe the whole family will love. The kids can help cut the dough and fill the crocks. And it’s a great way to get them to eat their vegetables too!

Fill each crock ¾-full with pot pie filling. Cover each crock with

Yield | 4 pot pies |

to escape. In a small bowl, beat the egg and milk together to

1 stick ½ cup 2 cloves 6 cups 3 Tbsp 1 tsp 1½ tsp ½ tsp 2 cups 1½ cups 1

Transfer crocks to a baking sheet and bake 20 to 30 minutes until

%PG 64

crocks to seal. Cut 3 small slits in each pastry top to allow steam

%MO %YEAR2012 NOVEMBER

Serves | 4 to 6 | Bread Pudding

3 10 5 cups 1½ cups 2 tsp 6 3

large eggs large egg yolks half-and-half sugar vanilla extract butter for greasing Bacon Muffins (see recipe, p. 52), stale and cubed large croissants, stale and cubed

French ToasT

4 ¼ cup ½ tsp ½ stick 1 cup

eggs whole milk vanilla extract butter for sautéing powdered sugar Cinnamon Cream (see recipe, p. 60)

| Preparation – Bread Pudding |

Bacon-Bread Pudding French Toast with Cinnamon Cream

Preheat oven to 350ºF. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together eggs, egg yolks, half-and-half, sugar and vanilla. Butter the bottom of a 2-quart casserole dish and add cubed bread. Pour custard mixture over bread and soak for 15 minutes. Place the casserole dish inside a 9x13-inch baking dish. Add 1 inch of water to the larger baking dish. Cover loosely with foil, making sure the foil does not touch the bread pudding.

Bake for 45 minutes. Uncover and bake another 30 to 40 minutes, until set in the middle and slightly browned on top.

This is a decadent breakfast using the Bacon Muffins from Cassy Vires’ Thanksgiving menu. You may want to double Cassy’s

| Preparation – French Toast | Refrigerate bread pudding for about 2 hours or until cold completely through. Loosen edges

make an egg wash. Brush the top of each pie with the egg wash.

unsalted butter all-purpose flour garlic, finely minced chicken stock fresh parsley, finely chopped kosher salt freshly ground black pepper freshly ground nutmeg Roasted Root Vegetables (see recipe, p. 56) chopped Hay-Roasted Pheasant (see recipe, p. 54) small bag frozen pearl onions, thawed

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the puff pastry. Gently press the dough around the rim of the

muffin recipe so you have plenty left over for this amazing sweet and salty bread pudding French toast. I highly recommend serving with more bacon, of course!

they are golden-brown and puffed up.

around the pan with a knife and flip the pan over to release the

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400ºF. While bread pudding is

entire bread pudding onto a cutting surface. Cut pudding into

cold, loosen its edges from the pan with a knife and flip the pan

thick slices. Whisk eggs, milk and vanilla together in a shallow

over to release the entire bread pudding onto a cutting surface.

bowl. Melt 2 Tbsp butter in a large skillet on medium-high

Using a serrated bread knife, slice the bread pudding in half

heat. Coat all sides of a few bread pudding slices with the egg

lengthwise through the middle. Slice 4 large squares, about

mixture and add to the hot skillet. Cook a few slices at a time

the size of Texas toast. Spread 2 Tbsp goat cheese on each

2 Tbsp

whole milk

to avoid overcrowding the skillet. Sauté on each side until

slice. Drizzle each of the bread pudding slices with olive oil.

¼ tsp

kosher salt

½ tsp

freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbsp

fresh parsley, finely chopped

golden-brown. Add more butter 1 Tbsp at a time when sautéing

Place on a baking sheet and bake 15 minutes or until golden and

the remaining slices. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and top with

toasted on each side. The cheese should be slightly browned

cream. Serve immediately.

and bubbly.

Add artichoke hearts, spinach, garlic, lemon juice, salt and

Open-Face Artichoke Sandwich

pepper to the bowl of a food processor. Purée and slowly add

This Mediterranean-inspired recipe is a great light breakfast or

to taste. Spread the artichoke mixture onto the toasted bread

anytime snack. Serve with fresh fruit or the Faux Caesar Salad with Bacon Croutons.

Serves | 4 |

4 Tbsp 1 cup 2 cups 1 clove 1 Tbsp 1 tsp 1 tsp 2 Tbsp 4

Wild Mushroom Bread Pudding (see recipe, p.

58) Baetje Farms Couer de la Crème Plain encrusted in pistachio and lavender (see cheese plate section, p. 50) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling canned artichoke hearts, drained fresh spinach garlic fresh lemon juice kosher salt freshly ground black pepper unsalted butter eggs

in the olive oil until completely incorporated. Adjust seasoning pudding slices.

Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Crack each egg

Croquettes

4 cups

Roasted Garlic and Apple Mashed Potatoes (see recipe, p. 57)

1 cup

Hay-Roasted Pheasant (see recipe, p. 54), shredded and finely chopped

4

eggs, beaten and divided

3 Tbsp

all-purpose flour

2 cups

plain bread crumbs vegetable oil or peanut oil for frying

sauCe

1 cup

Cranberry Sauce (see recipe, p. 58)

½ cup

apple cider

¼ cup

dry white wine

into a small bowl before adding it to the skillet. Cook gently,

| Preparation – Croquettes |

about 3 minutes per side, until over-easy. Season eggs with salt

potatoes through parsley. Stir in 2 beaten eggs and flour. Chill for

and pepper on both sides. Be careful not to break the yolk. Top

1 hour. Form the mixture into small balls using a portion scoop.

each slice of bread with an egg. Break the yolk just before eating.

Place remaining beaten eggs in a small bowl. Place bread crumbs

In a large bowl, mix together

in a separate small bowl. Roll croquettes in egg mixture and then coat in the bread crumbs.

Roasted Garlic, Apple and Pheasant Potato Croquettes with Cranberry Apple Sauce This is a “leftover” version of the classic potato croquette. For a vegetarian option, simply omit the pheasant.

Serves | 4 to 6 |

Fill a large pan with ½-inch of oil and heat oil on medium-high.

When oil is hot, fry croquettes in small batches on each side until golden-brown.

| Preparation – Sauce |

Add all ingredients for the sauce to a

small saucepot. Simmer until reduced by half. Serve on the side of croquettes for dipping.

Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER %MO %YEAR2012

%PG 65

sweet tradition EditEd by Brandi Wills

|

photography by Jonathan Gayman

adition r t t u o b local g is all a em. Five

ehind th givin Thankritse dishes and the storiehsavbe graced

vo rts that – our fa ending re desse a h s s a sweet ie g il in r m b a f o t food ars r the ye bles ove rations. their ta ay celeb d li o h n w to your o

Bill Cardwell, chef and owner of Cardwell’s at the Plaza and BC’s Kitchen

this recipe originally came from a very close friend and neighbor in my hometown of proctorsville, Vt. My mother made this fruitcake every year long before i was even born. My memories of the cake go back to when i was a young boy and would accompany my mother on our annual trip to rutland – then Vermont’s second-largest city with 1,000 inhabitants. We would go to Cinderella’s Sweets candy shop to purchase candied fruit such as pineapple, oranges, citron and cherries. i would also get a few extra special treats for myself; i’m partial to pistachios and caramel. My mother would start baking fruitcakes after thanksgiving. She probably made eight to 10 cakes every year, and they would get a daily bath of brandy. it is a treasured family dessert, which we slice and serve with a variety of other sweets. recipe on p. 74

’

lls e w rd a C y The olida e H ak c t i Fru

66

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67

The Bommaritos’ Apple Pie

Vince Bommarito, Jr., chef at Tony’s Restaurant On Sunday nights when I was growing up, our mother, Martha, would make a big dinner that always included a homemade dessert.

She made rice and bread puddings and baked custard. Most notable were her pies. There was German chocolate pie, lemon meringue, coconut cream and peach. But most often she made apple pie because that is our dad’s favorite.

She makes it using several types of apples, and it has a crunchy, crumbly top. A pastry chef may grimace at its presentation, but it really is very good. We serve it at room temperature with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream. recipe on p. 74

68

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NOVEMBER 2012

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The Del Pietros’ Sfinci

Mary Rose Del Pietro,

mother of Michael Del Pietro of Sugo’s Spaghetteria When I was young, my mother, Lee Russo, who had Rossino’s restaurant, taught me to make sfinci, a Sicilian dessert. She only made sfinci on holidays, but once I had my own children, I made them this special treat most Sundays.

My children and grandchildren are always excited when they see the light golden puffs piled high, drizzled with honey and almonds. They are delicious and simple to make. Today this type of dessert is disappearing, but in my family we consider it a most basic comfort food. recipe on p. 74

Angie Eckert,

vice president of retail operations at Eckert’s Country Farms Each holiday season, the Eckert family cooks set about experimenting with new pumpkin and apple dessert recipes for holiday gatherings. At Thanksgiving and Christmas celebrations, we always have a buffet of desserts, and it is tradition to try them all. While most recipes change from year to year, there is a classic you can be sure will make the table. It is this coconut cream pie recipe. (It is especially a hit with the Eckert men!) recipe on p. 74

%PG 70

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71

’ ys t Gin ite d c M -Wh ea e Th pple te Br A ola ing oc udd h C P

Frank McGinty,

director of sales and marketing at Kaldi’s Coffee Three years ago we started a new Thanksgiving tradition of serving over 40 family members in my parents’ barn in Cape Girardeau, Mo. We get an early start in the morning, spit-roasting a pig from Jones Heritage Farms. We then spend the day prepping, cooking and sipping on beverages. At our very first gathering, this dessert was the closing note of a long but rewarding day of cooking for my entire family. We serve it familystyle in the pan it was baked in, with lots of caramel and whipped cream on the side for people to pile on. It’s become a must-have that will be on our Thanksgiving table again this year and in the years to come. recipe on p. 74

72

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family tradition recipes

The Cardwells’ Holiday Fruitcake Pictured on p. 66

Serves | 12 | 1½ cups 1½ cups 15 oz ¼ cup 2 1 lb 4 oz ½ cup 2½ cups 1 tsp 1 tsp 1 tsp ½ tsp ½ tsp 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 15 15 15

strong brewed coffee granulated sugar seedless raisins Crisco eggs, beaten mixed candied fruit candied cherries, halved pecan pieces all-purpose flour baking soda baking powder ground cinnamon ground allspice ground cloves light Karo syrup brandy, plus more for daily soaking pecan halves, for garnish green and red candied cherries, for garnish candied pineapple wedges, for garnish

| Preparation | Fill a deep baking pan with cold water and place it on the bottom rack of the oven. Preheat oven to 325°F. Grease and flour a 9-inch tube pan. In a saucepot, combine the coffee, sugar, raisins and shortening. Bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. When cooled, pour the mixture into a mixing bowl. Add the eggs, candied fruit and pecan pieces.

In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder and ground spices. Add the dry mixture to the wet mixture and stir until thoroughly combined. Pour the batter into the tube pan and place the pan in the center of the oven. Bake about 1 hour. Cake is done when a wood skewer inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean and the top of the cake is firm.

While cake is baking, combine Karo syrup and brandy in a small sauce pan and heat until warm.

When cake is done, remove from oven and, while the cake is still hot, arrange pecan halves, candied cherries and candied pineapple on top of the cake to garnish. Brush the top of cake with warm brandy-syrup mixture to secure the fruits and nuts.

When the cake is cool enough to handle, remove it from the pan by carefully inverting it onto a plate and then turning it back upright. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Cake will keep in an airtight container in a cool place. If keeping for an extended time, brush with brandy every couple of days to keep cake moist.

The Bommaritos’ Apple Pie Pictured on p. 68

Yield | One 9-inch pie | Pie Filling

3 3 3 ¼ cup ¼ cup 1 tsp

74

Granny Smith apples Jonathan apples Pink Lady apples sugar flour ground cinnamon

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NOVEMBER 2012

Crust

2 cups 1 cup 1 tsp ¼ cup

flour, plus more for dusting Crisco salt cold water

and puff up to about twice their original size, either slowly or at one time. Continue to fry, turning sfinci to evenly brown them.

When they are done, drain them on a paper towel. When you’re ready to serve them, drizzle sfinci with warm honey and sprinkle with slivered almonds.

Crumb toPPing

1 cup 1 cup 1 cup 10 Tbsp

flour sugar brown sugar unsalted butter

| Preparation – Pie Filling |

Peel, core and slice the apples.

Place them in a large bowl. Add sugar, flour and cinnamon to the bowl and toss to coat. Let sit for 25 minutes.

| Preparation – Crust |

Cut flour, Crisco and salt with knives until the Crisco is pea-sized. Add cold water and mix only until dough is wet. Place a large piece of parchment paper on your work surface and dust liberally with flour. Roll out dough on floured parchment paper. Place an upside-down 9-inch pie pan on the rolled-out dough. With help from the parchment paper, flip the dough and pan over. The dough will be inside the pan. Crimp dough along the edge. The dough will crumble slightly during this process. Crimp the fallen dough together to make the edge of the pie about ¾-inch above the rim of the pan.

| Preparation – Crumb Topping |

Mix all ingredients together in a large bowl until mixture is crumbly.

| To Assemble | Preheat oven to 425°F. Carefully transfer the apple pie filling to the pie pan, being careful not to crush the crimped dough edges. Evenly spread the crumb topping over the apples. Place the pie pan on a cookie sheet, as the pie will drip a little. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 350°F and bake about 1 hour. Use a skewer to check for doneness. When the apples are tender, the pie is done.

The Eckerts’ Coconut Cream Pie Pictured on p. 70

Yield | One 9-inch pie | 2½ cups ¾ cup + 4 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 2½ Tbsp ¼ tsp 2 1 tsp 4 1 ½ cup

whole milk granulated sugar, divided flour cornstarch salt egg yolks, lightly beaten vanilla extract egg whites 9-inch pre-baked pie shell sweetened coconut flakes

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 325°F. Reserve 2 Tbsp milk and set aside. Pour remaining milk into the top of a double boiler and bring to a boil. In a small bowl, combine reserved milk, ¾ cup sugar, flour, cornstarch and salt. Mix well. Add egg yolks and stir until smooth. While milk is still boiling, add egg mixture and stir to thicken. When mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, remove from heat and stir in vanilla extract.

In a mixing bowl, beat egg whites until stiff. Add remaining sugar, 1 Tbsp at a time, and continue to beat until soft peaks form. Pour cream filling into pie shell. Add coconut to filling and stir gently.

Spread meringue on top. Bake for 20 minutes or until meringue is golden-brown. Allow to cool before serving.

The Del Pietros’ Sfinci Pictured on p. 70

Yield | 35 sfinci | 8 Tbsp 1 cup 1/3 cup 1 pinch 1 cup 3 ½ cup ¼ cup

butter, cubed water sugar salt flour oil for frying eggs honey, warmed slivered almonds

| Preparation | In a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring butter, water, sugar and salt to boil. Heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, until butter is completely melted. Remove from heat and add flour all at once, stirring with gusto until the mixture forms a ball of dough that pulls away from the side of the pan. It will be sticky. Let the dough cool for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally to release steam.

In a heavy saucepan, heat 2 inches of oil to 325°F, using a deep fryer or candy thermometer to measure the temperature. With an electric mixer, beat the eggs, one at a time, into the dough, incorporating each egg before adding the next. The dough should be loose but not runny. To fry sfinci, first dip a tablespoon in the hot oil (to keep the dough from sticking to the spoon) and then scoop out a spoonful of dough and drop it into the oil. Fry a few at a time but don’t overcrowd the pan. Turn the dough when begins to brown, after about 1½ minutes. The sfinci will pop open

The McGintys’ Apple-White Chocolate Bread Pudding Pictured on p. 72

Serves | 12 | 1½ cups 1½ cups 6 ½ cup 1 tsp 2 1 6 oz

heavy cream whole milk large eggs brown sugar salt Granny Smith apples, cored and cubed with skin on large loaf brioche or challah bread, cubed white chocolate chips caramel sauce whipped cream

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine heavy cream and milk and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, whisk together eggs, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Temper the hot milk mixture into the eggs, constantly whisking to prevent eggs from scrambling. Place cubed apples and bread into a large bowl. Pour the custard over the bread with apples. Allow to cool. Add the white chocolate and the pour the mixture into a 9x13-inch baking dish. Cover with foil and bake about 30 minutes. Remove foil and bake for 10 minutes to create a light crust on top. Serve family-style from the pan with caramel sauce and whipped cream on the side.

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4614 N. Illinois • Fair view Heights, IL • 618.233.2445 Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2012

75

5 Dollar Monday – Second pizza is $5* *Equal or lesser value! Not valid with any other offers.

Offer valid on every other pizza. Tax and gratuity not included.

HAPPY HOUR, Seven days a week featuring $5.00 App�t�z�rs from 4 - 6 p.m.

LiVe MuSic! Wednesday - Saturday Every Wednesday we have 1/2 Pr���d Bottl�s of W�n� on our entire list!

731 So�th L�ndb�rgh Blvd. • Front�na� • 314.569.4115 • V�s�t �s on

• front�na�gr�ll.�om

The Bistro at Old Hickory Join us this fall for lunch, dinner or your next big event.

Membership is not required for a dining experience at our award-winning restaurant.

Enjoy our Chef attended Brunch every Sunday from 10am-1pm.

Old Hickory is the perfect venue for holiday parties big or small.

We can accommodate any group from 10 – 500 guests with exceptional service and exquisite dining.

Ask about our Thanksgiving Dinner To – Go and let Old Hickory save you the time and stress of preparing the holiday meal.

#1 Dye Club Drive • St. Peters, MO 63304 • 636.477.8960 • 76

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2012

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CLASSIFIEDS Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis AUTOMOTIVE ST. LOUIS CAR MUSEUM & SALES Now offering Upholstery Services for Your Classic, Antique, Custom and Special Interest Autos Contact Kevin @ 314.993.1330 Or Kevin@stlouiscarmuseum.com AUTOMOBILE & MOTORCYCLE STORAGE The Finest in Climate Controlled Storage Close to Clayton and Ladue 314-993-1330 or Kevin@stlouiscarmuseum.com I BUY RUNNING USED CARS Buying with Integrity for Over 30 Years Cash Paid On The Spot Call Sam 314-302-2008

FOR SALE

HOLIDAY

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Removing the Toughest of Stains & Odors Guaranteed!

Carpet & Upholstery Cleaning Will Match Any Coupon. Call Katherine @ 314-566-9506 Today! Insured & Bonded THREE SCHOOL BUS DRIVER'S Looking to Make Extra Cash.

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Reasonable Rates. Ref's & Bkgrd Check Available. Cleaning St. Louis Area. Diana 618-210-1546

EDIBLES

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MAKING

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WANTED

THE WELL BEHAVED PET....

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Laura @ 636-456-9993

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CALL KRIS 314.921.2631 PRICES STARTING @150

HEALTHCARE SERVICES

Home Helpers is your #1 source affordable, dependable care for all ages by compassionate caregivers.

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REFERENCES AVAILABLE

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Free Estimates! Fully Insured.

Call Bob (314) 799-4633 or Jim (314) 799-4630

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Treat him to a clean, healthy grill this season.

Our steam bath process helps remove greasy buildup and harmful carcinogens.

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Call Steve 314-452-7192 or visit www.bbqgrillco.com

WANTED

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CLEANING SERVICES OLIVIA'S CLEANERS Residential Construction Commercial Last Minute, One Time, Move In/Out, & Rentals. Weekly, Bi-weekly, Monthly, Weekends & Evenings.

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No Job Too Big Or Small.

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TREES

Local collector looking to purchase your vintage costume jewelry.

Especially signed pieces!

Must be in excellent condition please!

314-651-1052

WE BUY DIAMONDS!

Immediate cash paid 20 years in business 314-721-7210 by appointment only www.webuydiamondsstl.com COLLECTOR WISHES TO PURCHASE Gun Collections â Old and New Antiques of Any Type Fishing Tackle Call Steve Lapin 314-571-9427 OLD RECORDS WANTED Experienced Collector Pays Cash for Your Record Collection.

45 RPM, 78 RPM and 33.3 RPM. Rock, Soul, Jazz. House Calls Made.

Call Kurt for info. 314-324-0521

GO FISHING catch your future customers

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Trees Trimmed & Removed

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HELP WANTED RODAN + FIELDS DERMATOLOGISTS Seeking motivated, business-minded individuals to help grow a national team partnering with the doctors that created Proactiv Solution.

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For Pictures Please Visit www.vrbo.com/148365 REGENTS PARK LONDON Modern 2 Bedroom Apartment.

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To place an ad, call:

314-269-8838

email: classified@laduenews.com

laduenews.com

Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2012

77

The Boozy-Q

WRITTen By Hannah Radcliff PhOTOGRAPhy By Jonathan Gayman

COnTRIBuTOR: HannaH Radcliff, videoGRapHeR The tagline that appears on this restaurant’s website is as true as could possibly be: “The Royale is a respectable place where you can hang out with your friends, go on a date or even take your mother.” And I can attest to its truthfulness, as I’ve done all three.

liquor-soaked cake. If you’re like me and order coffee at all hours of the day, it makes a great pairing for this rich dish. Or if you’re at The Royale on a Sunday night for a Cocktail Museum event, you can pair the Boozy-Q with one of the restaurant’s tasty pre-Prohibition cocktails.

Whether you’re dining or discussing the extensive beer list with the barkeep, no outing is complete without The Boozy-Q. The base of this decadent dessert is a cakewich – two layers of fluffy devil’s-food cake filled with vanilla buttercream – from The Cakery in Dogtown. The cakewich is soaked in Irish cream and topped with Chambord whipped cream. I absolutely love to share this dessert with friends, and we’re always daring one another to take the last bite of

The Royale Food & Spirits, 3132 S. Kingshighway Blvd., Tower Grove South, 314.772.3600, theroyale.com Check out Hannah’s videos every month at feastSTL.com. This month she films photographer Jennifer Silverberg setting the scene for our Chef’s Thanksgiving feature (p. 44) and gets tips on styling the celebration.

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All-I�clusive!

Book �ow a�d save up to 25%! Plus, book with Travel Leaders a�d receive a complime�tary room upgrade!* Price valid for Mo� - Su� departures 1/3 - 1/29/13.

Travel protectio� is �ot i�cluded i� advertised prices. Savi�gs are reflected i� advertised prices above. Prices are per perso� based o� double occupa�cy for �ew booki�gs made 11/3-12/3/12. Select hotels may impose a resort fee, which is �ot i�cluded i� the above price, a�d is payable directly to the hotel. *Book a Jacuzzi Ju�ior Suite a�d receive a complime�tary upgrade to a� Ocea� View Jacuzzi Ju�ior Suite. Book a� Ocea� View Jacuzzi Ju�ior Suite a�d receive a complime�tary upgrade to a� Ocea� Fro�t Jacuzzi Ju�ior Suite. Upgrades based o� availability upo� arrival. Valid o� booki�gs made by 12/22/12. Various ca�cellatio� pe�alties a�d payme�t requireme�ts may apply. Please refer to the Fu�jet Vacatio�s’ Bill of Rights for details available from your travel age�t or at fu�jet.com. Offers may be withdraw� or cha�ged without �otice. Additio�al restrictio�s may apply. Please see Fu�jet.com. CST 2009218-20