May 2017 Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture | M i dw e st

P. 7 2

MO WINES GO FOR GOLD P. 8 5

THE ROOT OF LOCAL WINE P. 9 8

WINE YOUR WAY DOWN THE KATY

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GRAZIE

special special thanks to thanks to our valued, our valued, awardawardwinning staff. winning staff. your hard your work hard and work and dedication dedication are truly are truly appreciated. appreciated.

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GIANNI BINI “Hillary” cold shoulder knit top, $59.

“Flora” striped skort, $79.

Inspired Local Food Culture

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DOWNTOWN WASHINGTON WHERE HISTORY COMES TO LIFE GOTTFRIED’S CABIN

AUGUSTA WINERY

As the oldest standing structure in Washington, for 180 years, Gottfried’s Cabin has watched the town of Washington transform around it. And much like the changing town around it, the cabin has always been reinvented. While the structure has remained mostly the same since 1834. it’s purpose and function has not. Now it is a relaxing retreat for visitors to Washington. Check online for rental availability.

Located just 20 minutes from downtown Washington MO, Augusta Winery’s award-winning wines may be enjoyed year-round from the tasting room or at our Wine & Beer Garden May-October featuring free, live music on weekends.

5601 High Street | PO Box 8 | Augusta. MO 63332 888-MOR-WINE | www.augustawinery.com

124 Jefferson St. | Washington, MO 63090 636-239-1743 | www.gottfriedscabin.com

MARqUART’S LANDING

COWAN’S RESTAURANT Washington’s oldest restaurant and still “The Place to Meet”. Cowan’s Restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner all day, with everything made fresh to-order. They’re known for their famous made from scratch fruit and mile-high pies and you can choose from more than so flavors.

114 Elm Street | Downtown Washington, MO 636-23-3213 | www.cowai1SIVStaurant.com

A Washington landmark, The Landing was built in 1855 and has housed a tavern and hotel of some sort. Owners Rick and Karen are keeping that tradition alive. Marquart’s Landing features a full menu, daily specials and a full bar. They combine an historic feel with modern day pleasures like big screen TV’s.

300 West Front Street | Washington, MO 63090 636-239-3229 | www.marquartslanding.com

ADCARTS

SUGARFIRE SMOKE HOUSE

Toni and Dennis with ADC Arts will be sharing their love of nature and photography art the Fine Art Fair & Winefest in downtown Washington May 20-22! The photos are printed on metal for more vibrant colors, sharp contrast and intense details. lf you love the National Parks and vivid photography their booth is a must see.

Award winning artisan barbecue on the scenic Missouri riverfront in Washington, MO. Route 66 lovers will feel right at home in this throwback smokehouse - BBQ burgers, shakes, fries and 5 varieties of house made pies fresh daily.

512 West Front Street | Washington, MO 63090 636-432-5550 | www.sugarfiresmolcehouse.com

ADC ARTS Toni and Dennis Cavin 636-390-0100 | mw3305@yahoo.com

DEBOURGE GUEST HOUSE

STONE HILL WINERY Stone Hill’s award-winning winemaking team produces wines that are receiving international acclaim, winning more than 4,000 awards since 1993. including eight Missouri Governor’s Cupscontinuously ranking Stone Hill among the nation’s top award winners. Open year-round with free live music on the hill from May through October.

111O Stone Hill Highway | Hermann, MO 65041 855-410-1308 | www.stonehilfwinery.com

➔ May 6 - Marquart’s Beer Run, Walk, Crawl 5K

SUMMER EVENTS CALENDAR 4

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➔ May 19-21 - Fine Art Fair and Winefest Each year, artists line the streets of downtown Washington, with Missouri wines brought for tasting and selling from 14 area wineries.

View and purchase beautiful artwork, drink

DeBourge Guest House offers a unique experience with a view of the Missouri River and claw foot tubs in most rooms. Single room bookings are available, as well as, the entire house for a day, weekend or longer. Just blocks away from the Amtrak, downtown, shopping. dining and night life and a short drive from area wineries. Join them in historic downtown Washington for a vacation to remember.

119 Johnson Street | Washington, MO 63090 636-39-0466 | debourgehouse.com

delicious wine, enjoy the live entertainment, and sample from the full food court. Additional activities include Sip and Savor Sunday, sponsored

by Feast Magazine, where Missouri wineries team up with local restaurants to showcase food and wine pairings. Hours are Friday 5-8PM, Saturday 10AM-8PM and Sunday 1OAM -4PM

➔ August 26 - Foodstock 4-1OPM Downtown Washington, Inc. and local musicians join forces to collect food and raise money for area food banks. A bag of nonperishable foods or a cash donation is your entry.

Help us fill the shelves!

➔ September 23-24 Fall Festival of the Arts and Crafts Each year, artists and crafters liven the streets of downtown Washington, selling their goods. Enjoy live entertainment, a full food court and Budweiser and Pepsi products. Hours are Saturday 10 am- 6pm and Sunday 10 am- 4pm.

Inspired Local Food Culture

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N E W L I G H T E R FA R E F O R T H E NEW SEASON IN THE OPEN

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Jefferson City | Columbia | Kansas City Springfield | St. Louis

may 2017 72 85 98

crush the competition

Behind the scenes at the Missouri Wine Competition, where nine judges from across the u.S. blind-taste more than 300 local wines to name the best of the best.

deep roots

How the rise, fall and renewal of Missouri’s wine country led to the establishment of the state’s American Viticultural Areas.

the long and wining road

Explore history, natural beauty and our thriving wine country along Missouri’s 240-mile state park, the Katy Trail.

from the staff

| 10 |

from the PUBLIsher

The local wine issue

| 14 |

dIgItaL content

What’s online this month

| 16 |

feast tv

A look at the wine episode

dIne

| 22 |

on trend

Sorghum

| 24 |

where we’re dInIng

Vintage Restaurant at Stone Hill, Snax Gastropub, Mass St. Fish House & Raw Bar

| 26 |

one on one

Heather White and Amante Domingo of The Russell

| 28 |

In season

Strawberries

drInk

| 36 |

on trend

Frosé

| 38 |

where we’re drInkIng

The Belfry, Walker’s Bluff, Chase Club

| 40 |

the mIx

Il Grappolo

shoP

| 50 |

get thIs gadget

A rosé wine glass and an at-home aging bottle

| 52 |

one on one

Brent Baker of Old Woolam Custom Bottling

| 54 |

artIsan ProdUcts

Hermann Wurst Haus sweet peppered bologna and Kakao Chocolate Norton Pâtés du Vin

cook

| 60 |

heaLthy aPPetIte

Crispy shoestring fries with lemon-fennel salt

| 62 |

mystery shoPPer

Black trumpet mushrooms

| 64 |

qUIck fIx

Mussels in white wine- garlic sauce

| 66 |

sweet Ideas

Lemon curd TABLE OF CONTENTS PHOTO OF CRISPy SHOESTRING FRIES WITH LEMON-FENNEL SALT (P. 60) By SHERRIE CASTELLANO COVER ILLuSTRATION OF THE KATy TRAIL (P. 98) By TOM BINGHAM

Volume 8

| Issue 5 | May 2017

Vice President of niche Publishing, Publisher of feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

sales

director of sales

Angie Henshaw, ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 account Manager PHOTO BY SCOTT LEWIS

Jennifer Tilman, jtilman@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1205 sPecial Projects editor

Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1244

eDITORIal senior editor

Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing editor

Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com digital editor

Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas city contributing editor

In the local wine episode of Feast TV, I make a spatchcocked chicken with lemon, onions and herbs, plus a Chardonel from Baltimore Bend Vineyard. The recipe was inspired by the research I did for my interview with Ina Garten a few months ago and based on her recipe from Cooking With Jeffrey. You can get the recipe at feastmagazine.com.

Jenny Vergara st. louis contributing editor

Mabel Suen editorial intern

Kaitlynn Martin fact checKer

Deborah Hirsch Proofreader

Christine Wilmes contributing Writers

Christy Augustin, Sherrie Castellano, Gabrielle DeMichele, Natalie Gallagher, Rose Hansen, Hilary Hedges, Porcshe N. Moran, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, Ana Pierce, Matt Seiter, Jenn Tosatto, Jessica Vaughn, Shannon Weber

aRT

art director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Production designer

Jacklyn Meyer, jmeyer@feastmagazine.com contributing PhotograPhers

Zach Bauman, Sherrie Castellano, Curt Dennison, Jonathan Gayman, Rose Hansen, Porcshe N. Moran, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Madison Sanders, Jennifer Silverberg, Mabel Suen, Cheryl Waller

FeasT TV

producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

COnTaCT Us Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com

DIsTRIbUTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Jeff Moore for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at jmoore@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2017 by Feast Magazine™.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC

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publisher’s letter

I

t’s hardly a secret that I’m in love with our local wine industry. Being a city dweller (you can walk to Busch Stadium from my house), I jump at the chance to head out to wine country and spend the day among trellised grapevines and rolling hills.

Aside from the fact that wine is delicious, the agrarian part of the industry is a big aspect of what, to me, makes it such an interesting beverage. There are many years of effort that go into an estate-grown and -bottled vintage (meaning that the grapes used to make wine are grown on the winery’s property). First, winemakers are farmers, carefully tending their crop to ensure they produce the highest quality fruit. The way a vineyard is sited – for example, how the vines are either exposed to the elements or protected from them – can have a massive impact on whether or not crops are successful. Once those grapes make it through the growing season and achieve the exact right level of sugar, or degrees brix, harvest begins and from there, a winemaker must make a series of decisions regarding how to vinify the wine to capture the beautiful flavor created in the vineyard.

Fermentation times. Residual sugars. Yeast strains. Oak or stainless steel. Blend or single varietal. At each point in the winemaking process, there is potential for magnificence or misstep.

There is a reason why people say that winemaking is an art. Yes, it’s a craft in that these beverages are skillfully made by hand.

But the art of winemaking comes in when the winemaker has a vision for the result he or she is trying to achieve. There is no recipe to follow, because each year offers something unique, which is another aspect of wine that I love: It’s endlessly variable.

The flavor of fruit from a particular vineyard can vary widely from year to year based on growing conditions. The next time you’re at a winery, see if it offers a vertical tasting. This will allow you to taste the winery’s Norton (or Chambourcin or Vignoles) over multiple vintages and see how the wine can vary from one year to the next. Tasting wine this way lets you understand more fully what impact the environment has on what ends up in your glass.

We’ve dedicated the entire May issue to local wine, with stories ranging from a look at the history of Missouri’s American Viticultural Area’s from managing editor Nancy Stiles (p. 85) to a behind-the-scenes peek at the Missouri Wine Competition (p. 72). My hope is that once you peruse these pages, you’ll head to wine country and taste what the region has to offer. See you in the vineyard.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville

05.17

6-SHOW SEASON TICKET PACKAGE NOW ON SALE !

rose hansen Neosho, Missouri, Writer

October 3-15, 2017

April 3-22, 2018

Jose Llana and Laura Michelle Kelly in Rodgers & Hammerstein’s The King and I. Photo by Matthew Murphy.

“I grew up on the west coast, where wine is treated like an essential grocery. When I moved to Missouri four years ago, I mourned the culture of wine country.

But while writing ‘The Long and Wining Road,’ I started learning about German immigrants, freed slaves like Joseph Chandler and grape varieties cultivated to meet the particular challenges of Missouri’s landscape. I realized I’d lost nothing – I’d simply traded one superb wine region for another.

Missouri is more deeply connected to American wine than any other place in the country, but its quiet contributions have been largely overshadowed by the sprawling vineyards of California and Oregon.

The Katy Trail isn’t just a bike path, but a portal, one that provides us the opportunity to slowly rediscover the treasures of our own state. And as the old adage goes, there’s just no place like home.” (The Long and Wining Road, p. 98)

curt dennison Washington, Missouri, Photographer “Living in Missouri wine country has many benefits, one of which is the wonderful people you meet.

Brent Baker is a genuine, serious and laid-back guy.

The portable bottling unit that he commands is a wonder of compact technology. Finding angles, and even access, to the subject was a challenge that I enjoyed because it was as photographically complex as well as a fascinating process to witness.

I find it easy to establish a rapport with people like Brent, and that is what continues to make my job the best one on earth.” (One on One, p. 52)

hilary hedges St. Louis, Writer “I love talking with local winemakers about their process as they go from grape to glass.

Profiling the winners from the 2016 Missouri Wine Competition gave me the opportunity to go behind the scenes and learn more about each wine. You get a deeper look into the winemaker’s decision-making, the challenges they faced, and ultimately, the sense of accomplishment and pride they have in the final product. It’s always great to find a local wine that you enjoy, but getting to know the people who make it and understanding the work that went into producing it takes the experience to the next level. I encourage everyone to take advantage of all that the Missouri wine industry has to offer. Visit a local winery and find the people and stories behind the craft. (Crush the Competition, p. 72)

madison sanders

Ana Villafañe and Original Broadway Company Photos: Matthew Murphy

November 7-19, 2017

Nov. 28 - Dec. 10, 2017

January 16-28, 2018

March 20 - April 1, 2018

Specials for SWAP ONE & Priority Purchase*

December 14-17, 2017

February 23-25, 2018

Imperial, Missouri, Photographer “When Feast asked me to take on my first freelance job, I couldn’t have been more excited.

When I found out it was going to be a trip to Stone Hill Winery I was overjoyed, because I had never been to Hermann, Missouri. The quaint little wine country town was definitely worth the drive. The staff at Stone Hill Winery were such a pleasure and made me feel more than welcome.”

(Where We’re Dining, p. 25)

December 27-31, 2017

March 2-4, 2018

February 2-4, 2018

March 16-18, 2018

FabulousFox.com/ Subscribe 314-535-1700 Fox Box Office *See website for details and

content advisories.

May 29- June 3, 2018 Limit 8 season tickets per household.

Shows, dates & times subject to change. Season tickets are non-refundable.

May 9-20, 2018

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We’re building a wall.

A self-dispensing 24-bottle of wine kind of wall.

HANDCR AF TED BY BIS SINGER’S

STL

St. LouiS MicrofeSt Fri., May 5 and Sat., May 6; prices vary, VIP available; Lower Muny Parking Lot, 1 Theatre Drive, St. Louis; 314.588.1186; stlmicrofest.org

Benefiting Lift for Life Gym, the 2017 St. Louis Microfest is a two-day beer-tasting festival of international and craft offerings, with more than 125 breweries pouring 600 beers. With three different sessions available, each Microfest ticket includes a commemorative tasting glass, access to cooking demonstrations and brewing discussions, and live music. Food will be available for purchase, and VIP tickets are offered.

05/05 05/06

COMING TO 32 M ARY L AND PL A Z A J U N E 2 0 17.

KC

fungi & ferMentation feStivaL Sat., May 6 and Sun., May 7; $12, free for members; Powell Gardens, 1609 NW U.S. Highway 50, Kingsville, Missouri; 816.697.2600 ext. 306; powellgardens.org/fungi

Foray into the world of toadstools and brews with the first-ever Fungi & Fermentation Festival May 6 and 7 at Powell Gardens in the Kansas City area, featuring live music, beer and food tastings, vendors and workshops.

Festival admission includes entry into the Annual Plant Sale on May 6 and 7.

Additional charges may apply for some classes and tastings.

HANDCRAF TED BYBISSINGERS.COM

05/06 05/07

STL

BattLe of the BadgeS BBQ Sat., May 13, 5 to 9pm; $20, $25 day of; 40 S. Central Ave., parking lot between Bank of America and Buzz Westfall Justice Center, Clayton, Missouri; 314.727.8100; claytonbbq.com

Join the city of Clayton, Missouri, to support local emergency personnel while enjoying good food and music at Battle of the Badges BBQ. Ticket includes five samples of barbecue, side dishes and soft drinks.

Entertainment will be provided by Whiskey Morning, and cash bars will be available. Proceeds benefit The BackStoppers and Responder Rescue.

05/13

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STL

SchnuckS cookS: MuSSelS in White Wine-Garlic Sauce Wed., May 17, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School; schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

In this class, you’ll learn how to expertly cook mussels at home. You’ll also learn how to make a crisp and springy asparagus salad.

05/17

PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

05/19

STL

Sip & Savor Fri., May 19, 6 to 9pm; $55, $75 VIP; Hilton St. Louis Frontenac, 1335 S. Lindbergh Blvd., St. Louis; 314.993.1100; angelsarms.org/event/sip-savor-2

Sample incredible food alongside an array of wines, spirits and beer at Sip & Savor. This year’s event features live music, auction items, raffles and a photo booth, and 100 percent of the proceeds will benefit Angels’ Arms.

VIP tickets include access to an exclusive tasting room with premium food and beverages and specialty raffles.

STL

Feast tV taSte & See: artiSan MeatS and SWeetS Fri., May 19, 7pm; $15 each or $60 for all five events; Public Media Commons, 3653 Olive St., St. Louis; feastmagazine.com/events

Open your world to the sensational flavor of delicate artisan pastries, savory small-batch meats and local wine and beer. The event kicks off with live music and will feature segments from Feast TV, interviews with local chefs and live demos.

05/19

MO

doWntoWn WaShinGton Fine art Fair & WineFeSt Fri., May 19 through Sun., May 21; Historic Downtown Washington, Missouri; price varies; downtownwashmo.org

This unique festival in the heart of Missouri wine country draws visitors each spring from across the Midwest.

Enjoy wine tastings, a variety of snacks and gourmet foods to sample, wine pairings with local restaurants and a juried art fair featuring regional artists.

05/1905/21

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this month on

feastmagazine.com the feed

PhotograPhy by angela bond

We’re giving away a pair of ViP tickets to St. louis uncorked in Kiener Plaza on June 2! Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for the details.

KC One of the most anticipated restaurants of the year, Corvino Supper Club & Tasting Room, is now open in Kansas City. It combines a 74-seat dining room, 16-seat bar, private tasting room and a stage for live music.

best

PhotograPhy by mabel Suen

Patio season has arrived (finally!) and there’s really only one way to celebrate. We’ve rounded up our favorite patios in Kansas City and St. Louis – from charming beer gardens to posh rooftop bars – at feastmagazine.com.

Soulard diners now have a new fast-casual spot to grab sandwiches with smoky flavor. The Wood Shack opened recently, featuring sandwiches including the Burley-wich with adobo Mangalitsa pork belly.

PhotograPhy by ana Pierce

PhotograPhy by landon VonderSchmidt

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sgf In Springfield, the newly opened Mangia! A Nonna’s Italian Kitchen serves fresh Italian fare, including smoked duck arancini, beef saltimbocca and a San Marzano pork tenderloin.

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Wine plays a large role in Missouri’s cultural history. Beginning in the 19th century, German and French immigrants planted vines, and many wineries sprung up in the Missouri River valley. Prohibition nearly wiped the industry out, but today there are 130-something wineries in the state. We visit three wineries, each with its own style and story to tell. Wine is a key ingredient in many dishes, and so host Cat Neville pairs a Chardonel from Baltimore Bend Vineyard with the below meal.

The numerous farm dinners at Claverach Farm in Eureka, Missouri, feature its unique, lightly sparkling pétillant-naturel wines.

Host Cat Neville makes an easy, flavorful spatchcocked chicken with white wine, lemon, onion and herbs.

St. James Winery and Public House Brewing Co. have paired up to create a sustainable “fermentation campus” in St. James, Missouri.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

Missouri Wines supports the more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.

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With a focus on sustainability and great design, IKEA is your destination for affordable, innovative and high-quality kitchen products.

Kaldi’s Coffee is dedicated to creating a memorable coffee experience for customers and guests via sustainable practices and education.

Ole Tyme Produce provides some of the finest produce in the St. Louis region, serving restaurants, hotels, food service and catering companies.

The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.

new season airing now!

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Wednesdays at 7pm.

Serving Restaurants since 1973

Authentic LOCAL FAMILY

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 5:30pm.

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 7pm.

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8).

www.oletyme.com Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

314.436.5010

Inspired Local Food Culture

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Inspired Local Food Culture

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aw, shucks

Belly up to the bar at Mass St. Fish House & Raw Bar in Lawrence, Kansas, for fresh seafood and local suds on p. 24. photography by anna petrow

DRessel’s Public house ST. LOUIS. at Dressel’s Public House in St. louis,

sweet as

sorghum Written by nancy StileS

|

PhotograPhy by jonathan gayman

Sorghum has myriad uses. A member of the grass family, it’s grown all over the world and used to make flour, syrup, alcohol and even fuel. Chefs use the natural sweetener in place of honey or molasses, as it adds another level of complexity to baked goods, meats and even grits.

executive chef ray reinneck uses several different sweeteners, including sorghum and malt extract. “i like to use multiple sweeteners depending on the kind of sweetness i’m looking for,” he says. in his poutine, for example, reinneck cures pork belly with sorghum and serves it atop steak fries, cheese curds and smoked pork au jus. “the dark sweetness lends itself nicely to the barbecue seasoning we use on our poutine fries,” he says, “as well as the jus.” no judgment if you want to get your sorghum fix for brunch: reinneck will top your poutine with a farm egg any time of day. at home, reinneck suggests using sorghum to replace a dark sweetener such as honey, brown sugar or molasses. “the sky’s the limit – experiment with it,” he says. “it also makes a damn good molasses cookie, which is my favorite.”

419 N. Euclid Ave., dresselspublichouse.com

Rye LEAWOOD, KS. For executive chef john brogan of Rye in

leawood, Kansas, using sorghum in his pork brine was a no-brainer. “it adds a different depth of flavor than sugar, honey or molasses,” he says. “Pork naturally pairs with sweet; sorghum also caramelizes nicely, and has a subtle earthiness unlike the floral qualities of honey or even the sometimes sulfuric qualities of molasses.” brogan’s sorghum brine is used on canadian bacon, bone-in berkshire pork chops and a wood-fired double-cut Duroc pork chop. he’s also featured sorghum in breads, pastries, vinaigrettes and sauces at rye. brogan, who grew up in chicago, became more familiar with sorghum after he moved to South carolina. “i like using sorghum because it’s a bit obscure [but] bountiful, affordable, and it needs more recognition,” he says. “it’s a very important crop worldwide [because] it’s drought resistant and grows everywhere – especially in arid regions like Kansas.” at home, brogan recommends starting by using sorghum in baked goods; it’s incredibly versatile, and sorghum flour can be particularly useful in gluten-free cooking.

10551 Mission Road, ryekc.com

Watson’s shack & Rail CHAMPAIGN, IL. Watson’s Shack & Rail has been using

sorghum syrup as a glaze since opening in downtown champaign, illinois, in February 2016. the self-described “fine-casual” spot specializes in nashville-style hot chicken, but also serves other Southern-inspired specialties such as chicken and oyster gumbo and crab hushpuppies; don’t miss the Prairie Fruits Farm & creamery pimento cheese with housemade pickles. right now, chef-owner mark hartstein uses sorghum to glaze heinkel’s Packing co.’s bacon, but he’s also used it as a drizzle for whipped local sweet potatoes, grits, baked beans and in cinnamon rolls. “We once tried to make brittle with a little [sorghum] in place of corn syrup, and it turned the candy a murky green!” hartstein laughs.

Watson’s currently sources sorghum from maasdam Sorghum mills in lynnville, iowa, but “i’ve been prodding our local growers to plant some sorghum for us to play [with]," he says.

211 N. Neil St., watsonschicken.com

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mao her

chef-owner, oriental fusion Story and PhotograPhy by roSe hanSen

noeL, Mo. In the tiny ozarks town of noel, Missouri, charming façades still house a pocket-sized post-office and century-old feed store, but a booming immigrant population has also introduced an african grocery, a mosque and a mercado. downtown’s newest addition is the Oriental Fusion food truck. after fleeing Laos during the Vietnam War, Mao her and her family eventually settled in southwest Missouri, raising chickens and selling vegetables at nearby farmers’ markets. but gardening became increasingly difficult for her, and last year, she traded asian produce for asian cuisine, dishing up big flavors for the small town. We chatted with her and her son tommy, who helped translate, to learn more about their story, eat egg rolls and snack on general tso’s chicken.

Tell us about your food. It’s unique in the way that it uses different options in everything from Chinese to thai cuisine. there’s things like cashew stir fry, pad thai, chow mein and fried rice, but we cook it with hmong techniques. and then we even have our own culture’s egg rolls in there, too. –Mao Her What are some of your favorite dishes? My mom loves cooking the sweet and sour chicken and the general tso’s chicken, just because they’re easy and not so time-consuming to cook. but my mom’s egg rolls are the best. I can’t even eat other people’s egg rolls. they’re special because they come from our culture and you don’t see these often since the hmong community here is so small. the biggest difference is the quality. If you go eat Chinese restaurant egg rolls, they usually only have a few ingredients like carrots and cabbage. our egg rolls have a lot of ingredients like meat, noodles, carrots, onions, more veggies and sauce. they’re more filling and have more [flavor] variety and are just overall better. the process of actually making them can take up to one whole day just for one batch, which is about 300 egg rolls. When we first opened, we sold out every day because everybody was so excited about the new food truck in town. –Tommy Her What do you like about this community? there have been a lot of people who have never tried any of the food we have, so when they come they’re unsure if they even want to buy [anything]. but when they do try our food, then they keep coming back. We’ve made many friends like that. –M.H. there was a veteran from the Vietnam War who came and bought our egg rolls. he said it brought back good memories from that time even though it was so long ago, and it just made him so happy. he came back later and bought more. We don’t know if he lives here or was just traveling, but it was a really good experience. –T.H. Why did you come to Noel? there were rumors that we would make a lot of money in Missouri, but that was not true. to be able to have a family and just pay the bills, that’s good enough for us. We don’t make a lot of money off of [the chicken] houses, but we make enough to live comfortably – pay the bills and just be happy. the town isn’t like Laos, but the hills and the mountains and the trees remind me of Laos, and I like that. –M.H.

o t Sip y o j n E woodhatspirits.com New Florence, MO | Tours & Tasting Room

102 Main St., facebook.com/oriental-fusion-1674032356206488 Inspired Local Food Culture

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where we’re

dining

From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.

MaSS St. FiSh houSe & raw bar Written by Jenny Vergara

|

PhotograPhy by anna PetroW

LAWRENCE, KS. Mass St. Fish House & Raw Bar is where landlocked lawrence, Kansas,

now finds the freshest seafood in town. the restaurant opened at the end of 2016, serving happy hour and dinner only, and has been remodeled to include a stunning new raw bar and a dining room that swings from classy to cozy. there is a serious team of operators running mass St., led by owner ayrick madeira. Sit at the raw bar and enjoy a rotating selection of oysters from both coasts while watching the seasoned shuckers make quick work of extracting fresh oysters. the dinner menu features seafood dishes such as the Fish house Stew with rock shrimp and market fish in a tomato broth served with crostini, and an entrée of fresh linguine tossed with white wine-steamed clams in a creamy garlic sauce. the drink menu offers a fine selection of cocktails, and a mostly domestic wine selection sold by the glass or bottle.

719 Massachusetts St., massfishhouse.com

Snax GaStrobar Story and PhotograPhy by mabel Suen

ST. LOUIS. a brand-new neighborhood gathering place from the owners of robust Wine bar recently debuted in lindenwood Park. Snax Gastrobar opened in march, serving up elevated comfort food for dinner alongside craft beer, wine and cocktails. executive chef and co-owner Joseph hemp V approaches the menu with the goal of cooking up wholesome eats: “Whatever makes you happy and warms the soul,” he says. Choose from starters including house-cured and smoked meats, assorted pickles and buffalo balls – blended chicken and pork tossed in a sweet-heat glaze over stone-ground grits with blue cheese and green onions. Sandwiches include a reuben and a griddled doublepatty burger, while entrées include meatloaf, shepherd’s pie and roasted chicken. guests will find a little bit of everything behind the bar, from a selection of local beer to a sizable yet affordable wine list. Cocktails feature refreshing twists on tried-and-true classics to complement the snack-happy menu.

3500 Watson Road, snaxstl.com

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Vintage RestauRant at stone Hill WineRy Written by Liz MiLLer

|

photography by Madison sanders

HERMANN, MO. in early February, the Vintage Restaurant at Stone Hill Winery in

hermann, Missouri, opened for its 2017 season, featuring several new menu items. recent entrée additions include the traminette-cream salmon, a fresh salmon fillet topped with a creamy sauce made with stone hill’s award-winning traminette wine, plus seasonal vegetables and basil-lemon rice. the Chateaubriand is another new must-try: a grilled tenderloin filet topped with sauce bercy, a classic French sauce made with white wine, beef stock, shallots, parsley, garlic and thyme, served with a seasonal vegetable and roasted-garlic whipped potatoes. Fans of the restaurant’s hearty german-inspired fare needn’t fret, though, as favorites are still offered, including kartoffelpuffer (potato pancakes) and the german trio (schweineschnitzel with your choice of sauce, sauerbraten and locally made wurst with whole-grain mustard). the Vintage serves lunch and dinner and offers guests a wide selection of stone hill’s high-quality wines to pair with your meal: if you opt for the Chateaubriand, for example, try it with a bottle of the winery’s awardwinning 2012 governor’s reserve holden Vineyard norton.

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1110 Stone Hill Hwy., stonehillwinery.com/vintage-restaurant-dining Inspired Local Food Culture

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founders, the russell Written By Kaitlynn Martin

KAnSAS CITY.

in april 2016, culinary entrepreneur heather White and chef amante Domingo met while working in the Kansas city restaurant industry. White moved to Kansas city with her husband and 6-year-old son from Vancouver, B.c., where she co-founded a chain of cupcake stores in 2002 called cupcakes by heather and lori; Domingo grew up on an organic farm. the two bonded over the idea that Kansas city was missing a fresh, fast-casual concept that highlighted the great produce grown on local farms. now, a year later, The Russell is set to open its doors near the end of the month, featuring a sit-down restaurant, bakery and retail section.

Charred beet salad with lavender-truffle dressing

|

What can diners expect from The Russell’s menu? We really want to work closely together with local producers and farmers, and whatever is in season, we want to highlight on our menu. i want people to come in each and every time and be surprised with what we have, because it's going to be completely different. i know the two of us get really bored with doing the same thing over and over again, so i know the menu will never be dull. –Heather White What's one of your favorite dishes on the menu? one of my favorites is our charred beet salad that we pair with a lavendertruffle dressing; i think it’s quite delicious. We really like to celebrate what ingredients are fresh. –Amante Domingo Where does the name come from? the building that the restaurant is in used to be the russell Florist. as soon as amante showed me this space, and we saw the name of it, we just knew that the name was going to be

on

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heather white & amante domingo

q&A

the russell. –H.W. What will the layout of the restaurant be like? From nearly every angle of the restaurant, customers will be able to see what we are doing. not only do i think it’s important because you see the ingredients and how everything is constructed together, but you really get to see the people who are passionate about working and creating. it adds another sense of what we're putting in our bodies and what we're surrounded by. –A.D. What do you hope diners will experience at The Russell? i really want the customer to feel like they’re eating in our home with us. it’s about sharing the food, and getting people to experience different things, or to be able to introduce them to something that they haven’t had the chance to try before. –H.W. What are you most excited for? i think our collaboration is pushing each other to do more, and to step outside of the idea of what lunch and breakfast has to be. i’m most excited for our opening day, because people are really going to be blown away. –H.W. 3141 Main St., therussellonmain.com

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in season: May through august

StrawberrieS Written by nancy StileS

Strawberries just might be the surest sign of warm weather in the Midwest. The plants begin flowering in April, and the red, juicy fruit begins to show up in May. Chefs look forward to their fresh flavor and use them in everything from chocolate desserts to pulled pork sandwiches.

Urban Table Prairie ViLLage, Ks. tomato and balsamic vinegar, an iconic bruschetta combination, is available at Urban Table in Prairie Village, Kansas, as one of two or four toppings. However, executive chef Jason Finnerty suggests that diners try one of the seasonal variations, such as strawberry, brie and basil. “bruschetta doesn’t have to be the traditional thing,” he says. “[When] it’s a hot day outside, strawberries sound really good.” Finnerty cooks strawberries down with sugar and lemon juice to turn them into a jam. local Farm to Market ciabatta is lightly grilled with a bit of olive oil and topped with the strawberry jam, brie and local micro basil. Finnerty stresses that as long as you’re sourcing local, good-quality strawberries, you won’t have to do much to make them delicious. “We want to let the season and the freshness of the food dictate how we do it,” he says. “We want our strawberries to be the star.”

8232 Mission Road, urbantablekc.com

DrUff’s sPringFieLD, Mo. Strawberries don’t usually come to mind when you think of grilled cheese; then again, most versions of the childhood favorite don’t come with spicy pulled pork, either. enter the Uncle tatey from Druff’s, the grilled cheese spot that opened in Springfield, Missouri, last year. the Uncle tatey – which, like all of Druff’s sandwiches, is named after a friend of owners Vance Hall and andrew Heilman – comes with a housemade balsamic-strawberry reduction, fresh strawberries, goat cheese, slightly spicy pulled pork and red pepper flakes on wheat bread. “you get a weird reaction from people [at first],” Hall laughs. “but sweet and savory is something people can understand, and most folks end up loving it.” Hall says he and Heilman wanted to feature unique combinations, like the Signorini with pepper Jack cheese, prosciutto, pear and whole-grain mustard on wheat. “Don’t be afraid to try new things,” he says.

331 Park Central East, yumdruffs.com

naThaniel reiD bakery KirKWooD, Mo. Strawberry is one of the most popular

CheF’s tiP “I'm kind of a strawberry purist, myself – I don’t think you need to do a lot to the strawberry to make it good. As long as you get good quality and try to get local, those are the things that make it really good."

–Jason Finnerty, executive chef, Urban Table

flavors in desserts, but at Nathaniel Reid Bakery in Kirkwood, Missouri, nathaniel reid has two strategies to keep them from feeling tired. First, make something familiar, but make it better. reid’s strawberry preserves are a good example: one combines the classic flavors of strawberry and rhubarb and adds elderflower aroma. the other, reid’s best-selling jam, adds poppy flower to the strawberries. “the poppy flower has almost a cotton candy-ish quality to [its flavor], but without being sweet or adolescent,” he says. “it’s really sophisticated and beautiful.” His other strategy for keeping strawberry flavor fresh is to make something completely unexpected, like the yvonne, a pastry with white chocolate cream, a layer of hazelnut cake and strawberries. “We put [in] a couple secret drops of balsamic vinegar to bring a roundness to the strawberries and a point of acidity," reid says.

11243 Manchester Road, facebook.com/nathanielreidbakery

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eleanor taylor owner, prairie pie

q&A

story and photography by ana pierce

SPRInGFIeLD, Mo. even if you haven’t yet heard eleanor taylor’s name, it’s likely you’ve tried one of her creations. beginning as a baker’s assistant at tea bar & bites at just 16 years old, taylor honed some serious skills when it came to sweets. now in her early twenties with even more experience under her belt, taylor serves her treats around the springfield, Missouri, area under the name Prairie Pie. her pies are available at druff’s, cherry picker package x Fare and homegrown Foods – or delivered straight to your door.

How did you get your start in baking? i got started in baking when i was 9 or 10 years old. i had a huge sweet tooth, especially for my great-aunt pat’s sugar cookies.

When my mom was gifted a Kitchen-aid for her birthday, i realized that it was entirely possible for me to just make the cookies myself whenever i wanted. and the sugar cookies led to baking all kinds of other things. i loved being able to create something out of a few ingredients, then eat it at the end. i also found that i got great satisfaction out of making something sweet for someone else. You recently spent some time living in New York. Did that influence Prairie Pie? spending time in the city was extremely inspiring. the restaurant industry in new york city is so vast; there was so much for me to explore, all in one place. Visiting bakeries that i’d followed on instagram for years, seeing them in real life, seeing the variety of different pastries, from different cultures – sampling five different types of baklava at the sahadi’s dessert counter or having an espresso and a rose saint-honorÊ at the LadurÊe tea room. every weekend i would go to one of the many farmers' markets that were packed full. i’d grab one or two kinds of fruits and take them home to create a new dessert. How has working in front-of-house affected what you do behind the scenes? seeing firsthand the responses of the customer to what you have made is a great experience. it’s very motivating to bake, knowing that this is a product that people really, really love. it makes you put your heart into making the product, and that shows in the final result. getting good reviews in person is the best feeling. and if it’s not good, there are always endless suggestions on how to improve upon whatever you made. also, talking to the customers about what they would like to have helps you cater to the needs of the business; people come back when you make what they like. What's a signature dish of yours? What's one that challenges you most? My signature dish has to be a four-layer lemon cake. it's four layers of cake with lemon curd in between each layer, topped with lightly sweetened whipped cream and fresh berries. i make it for all of my friends’ birthdays – everyone always loves it. Lemon and berries with fresh whipped cream has to be one of the best combinations ever. the Key lime pie is definitely challenging; it mostly challenges my patience. Zesting and juicing all those tiny limes. the pay-off is incredible.

Key limes are more tart and aromatic than regular persian limes. What’s next for Prairie Pie? My dreams for prairie pie are all over the place right now. a storefront is the goal eventually, but i have no interest in a typical bakery. Mostly i would just like to have a huge industrial kitchen space where i can test new recipes to my heart’s content. eventually i’ll be adding cakes to my pie menu, as well; i fantasize about the spectacular dessert tables that i could design for weddings and other large events.

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Regional RestauRant guide

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3rd Chute Bar & Grill 220 W. Main St. Grafton, IL 618.786.8888

Big Baby Q 11658 Dorsett Road Maryland Heights, MO 314.801.8888 bigbabyq.com

Cedar Lake Cellars 11008 Schreckengast Road Wright City, MO 636.745.9500 cedarlakecellars.com

Element 1419 Carroll St. St. Louis, MO 314.241.1674 elementstl.com

4 Hands Brewing Co. 1220 S. Eighth St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.1559 4handsbrewery.com

Bishop’s Post 16125 Chesterfield Parkway W Chesterfield, MO 636.536.9404 bishopspost.com

Chaz on the Plaza at the Raphael Hotel 325 Ward Parkway Kansas City, MO 816.802.2152 raphaelkc.com

Endless Summer Winery 11 Grosse Lane Hermann, MO 573.252.2000 endlesssummerwinery.com

Aerie’s Resort & Winery 800 Timber Ridge Drive Grafton, IL 618.786.7477 aeriesview.com

Bissell Mansion Restaurant & Dinner Theatre 4426 Randall Place St. Louis, MO 314.533.9830 bissellmansiontheatre.com

Cleveland-Heath 106 N. Main St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.4830 clevelandheath.com

Farmers Gastropub 2620 S. Glenstone Ave. Springfield, MO 417.864.6994 farmersgastropub.com

Aya Sofia 6671 Chippewa St. St. Louis, MO 314.645.9919 ayasofiacuisine.com

Blood & Sand 1500 St. Charles St. St. Louis, MO 314.241.7263 bloodandsandstl.com

Cooper’s Hawk Winery & Restaurants multiple locations coopershawkwinery.com

Favazza’s on The Hill 5201 Southwest Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.772.4454 favazzas.com

Balducci Vineyards 6601 S. Highway 94 Augusta, MO 636.482.8466 balduccivineyards.com

The Blue Owl Restaurant & Bakery 6116 Second St. Kimmswick, MO 636.464.3128 theblueowl.com

Cork & Barrel Chop House and Spirits 7337 Mexico Road St. Peters, MO 636.387.7030 corkandbarrel.com

Fox & Hounds Tavern 6300 Clayton Road St. Louis, MO 314.647.7300 cheshirestl.com

Barcelona Tapas Restaurant 34 N. Central Ave. Clayton, MO 314.863.9909 barcelonatapas.com

Blumenhof Vineyards and Winery 13699 S. Highway 94 Dutzow, MO 636.433.2245 blumenhof.com

The Corner Restaurant 4059 Broadway Kansas City, MO 816.931.4401 thecornerkc.com

Fratelli’s Ristorante 2061 Zumbehl Road St. Charles, MO 636.949.9005 fratellisristorante.com

Basso 7036 Clayton Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.932.7820 basso-stl.com

Boulevard Brewing Co. 2534 Madison Ave. Kansas City, MO 816.701.7247 boulevard.com

Drunken Fish multiple locations drunkenfish.com

Gallagher’s Restaurant 114 W. Mill St. Waterloo, IL 618.939.9933 gallagherswaterloo.com

Beast Craft BBQ Co. 20 S. Belt W Belleville, IL 618.257.9000 beastcraftbbq.com

Boundary 7036 Clayton Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.932.7818 boundary-stl.com

Duke’s 2001 Menard St. St. Louis, MO 314.833.6686 dukesinsoulard.com

Grapeville Grill at Chaumette Vineyards & Winery 24345 State Route WW Ste. Genevieve, MO 573.747.1000 chaumette.com

Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas 325 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.3434 bellavinowinebarstl.com

Byrd & Barrel 3422 S. Jefferson Ave. St Louis, MO 314.875.9998 byrdandbarrel.com

Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard 10035 Edg-Clif Drive Potosi, MO 573.438.4741 edg-clif.com

Great Rivers Tap & Grill 3559-B College Ave. Alton, IL 618.462.1220 greatriverstapandgrill.com

Belmont Vineyards 5870 Old Route 66 Leasburg, MO 573.885.7156 belmontvineyards.com

Castelli’s Restaurant at 255 3400 Fosterburg Road Alton, IL 618.462.4620 castellis255.com

EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery and EdgeWild Bistro & Tap 550 Chesterfield Center | 12316 Olive Blvd.

Chesterfield, MO | Creve Coeur, MO 636.532.0550 | 314.548.2222 edgewildwinery.com

The Grille at the Mansion 1680 Mansion Way O’Fallon, IL 618.624.0629 mansionsteakhouse.com

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Helen Fitzgerald’s 3650 S. Lindbergh Blvd.

St. Louis, MO 314.984.0026 helenfitzgeralds.com

Mai Lee 8396 Musick Memorial Drive Brentwood, MO 314.645.2835 maileestl.com

The Rack House Kitchen Wine Whiskey 5065 State Highway N Cottleville, MO 636.244.0574 therackhousekww.com

Square One Brewery and Distillery 1727 Park Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.231.2537 squareonebrewery.com

Herbie’s 8100 Maryland Ave. Clayton, MO 314.769.9595 herbies.com

The Melting Pot multiple locations meltingpot.com

Ramon’s El Dorado 1711 St. Louis Road Collinsville, IL 618.344.6435 ramonseldorado.net

Stone Hill Winery 1110 Stone Hill Highway Hermann, MO 573.486.2221 stonehillwinery.com

Julep Cocktail Club 4141 Pennsylvania Ave. #104 Kansas City, MO 816.216.7000 julepkc.com

Molly Darcys 26 N. Meramec Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.863.8400 mollydarcyspub.com

Rooftop Cafe at City Museum 701 N. 15th St. St. Louis, MO 314.231.2489 facebook.com/rooftopcafecm

Summit Hickory Pit BBQ 1012 SE Blue Parkway Lee’s Summit, MO 816.246.4434 thesummithickorypitbbq.com

Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. multiple locations kaldiscoffee.com

Mount Pleasant Estates 5634 High St. Augusta, MO 636.482.9463 mountpleasant.com

Ruth’s Chris Steak House 1 N. Brentwood Blvd. #150 | 315 Chestnut St. Clayton, MO | St. Louis, MO 314.783.9900 | 314.259.3200 ruthschris.com

Syberg’s multiple locations sybergs.com

Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria 9568 Manchester Road Rock Hill, MO 314.942.6555 katiespizzaandpasta.com

The Muddled Pig Gastropub 2733 Sutton Blvd.

Maplewood, MO 314.781.4607 themuddledpig.com

Scape and Scapegoat 48 Maryland Plaza 52 Maryland Plaza St. Louis, MO 314.361.7227 scapestl.com | scapegoatstl.com

Three Sixty 1 S. Broadway St. Louis, MO 314.241.8439 360-stl.com

King & I 3157 S. Grand Blvd.

St. Louis, MO 314.771.1777 kingandistl.com

Noboleis Vineyards 100 Hemsath Road Augusta, MO 636.482.4500 noboleisvineyards.com

Schlafly Tap Room and Schlafly Bottleworks 2100 Locust St. 7260 Southwest Ave. St. Louis, MO | Maplewood, MO 314.241.2337 schlafly.com

Trattoria Giuseppe 5442 Old State Route 21 Imperial, MO 636.942.2405 trattoria-giuseppe.com

Klondike Café at Montelle Vineyard 201 Montelle Drive at MO Highway 94 Augusta, MO 636.228.4464 montelle.com

Olympia Kebob House & Taverna 1543 McCausland Ave. Richmond Heights, MO 314.781.1299 olympiakebobandtavern.com

Shawnee Bluff Winery & Vineyard 8 Tolwood Road | 2430 Bagnell Dam Blvd.

Eldon, MO | Lake Ozark, MO 573.365.1100 | 573.365.9935 shawneebluffwinery.com

Truffles and Butchery 9202 Clayton Road St. Louis, MO 314.567.9100 todayattruffles.com

LaChance Vineyards 12237 Peter Moore Lane De Soto, MO 636.586.2777 lachancevineyards.com

Pappy’s Smokehouse 3106 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.535.4340 pappyssmokehouse.com

The Silly Goose 5501 Locust St. Augusta, MO 636.482.4667 sillygoosemo.com

Twisted Tree Steakhouse 10701 Watson Road St. Louis, MO 314.394.3366 twistedtreesteakhouse.com

Ladoga Ridge Winery 100 E. Pope Lane Smithville, MO 816.866.4077 ladogaridgewinery.com

Pastaria 7734 Forsyth Blvd.

Clayton, MO 314.862.6603 pastariastl.com

Somerset Ridge Vineyard & Winery 29725 Somerset Road Somerset, KS 913.491.0038 somersetridge.com

Villa Antonio Winery 3660 Linhorst Road Hillsboro, MO 636.475.5008 villaantoniowinery.com

The Loading Dock 401 E. Front St. Grafton, IL 618.786.3494 graftonloadingdock.com

Porter’s Steakhouse 1000 Eastport Plaza Drive Collinsville, IL 618.345.2400 porterscollinsville.com

Southern 3108 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.531.4668 stlsouthern.com

Weber Grill Restaurant 1147 St. Louis Galleria St. St. Louis, MO 314.930.3838 webergrillrestaurant.com

Lucas Park Grille 1234 Washington Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.7770 lucasparkgrille.com

Q39 1000 W. 39th St. Kansas City, MO 816.255.3753 q39kc.com

Southtown Pub 3707 S. Kingshighway Blvd.

St. Louis, MO 314.832.9009 southtownpub.net

Wild Sun Winery 4830 Pioneer Road Hillsboro, MO 636.797.8686 wildsunwinery.com

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elizabeth lloyd photography

George Street Photo & Video

George Street Photo & Video

KristaRose photography

Elegant Vineyard Venue!

Weddings up to 500; Corporate and Non-Profit Events up to 1,000 Award Winning Wines, Italian Hospitality!

Celebrating Chef Bruce, formerly of 1111 Mississippi and Meadowbrook Enhanced Menu: Daily 11am - 4pm; Fridays 11am - 9:00pm Order and Pick-up at Wine Tasting Bar Sunday Brunch 11-2, Reservations Req’d: 636-475-5008 Music Sat & Sun 11am - 4pm New! Dinner and Music on most Fridays 6:30 - 9:30pm Kitchen Open Fridays 11am - 8:30pm for Dinner & Music Fridays R&B, Pop, 70’s, Dance, Oldies, New Orleans Jazz, Soft Rock, Country, Salsa Just 30 mins from I-44 & I-270 • 3660 Linhorst Road • Hillsboro, MO 63050 • www.villaantoniowinery.com

Just 32 mins SE of I-44 and I-270!

3660 Linhorst Rd. • Hillsboro, MO 63050 www.villaantoniowinery.com

Our menu is stocked with timeless favorites – traditional cuisine that people know, love and crave - with contemporary and bold defining flavors.

THURSDAY

FRIDAY

- Wine Special -

- Fresh Catch -

Half Price On Our List of Wine Bottles Under $80.00 Per Bottle

SATURDAY

- New Spring Hours Monday 4p-9p Tue • Wed • Thu 11a-9p Friday & Saturday 11a-10p Sunday 11a-8p

- Prime Rib - Mother’s Day Sun. May 14th Brunch 9a-2p Dinner 4p-8p

Let us book your next party in one of our three private rooms.

16125 Chesterfield Pkwy West • Chesterfield, MO 63017 636-536-9404 I www.bishopspost.com 32

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Stop in for a dip Saturday, June 10th 5-10 pm Taste wines while enjoying great musical performances on North Brentwood Blvd.

MUSICAL LINE-UP:

The Gaslight Squares 5-6 pm Sarah Jane & The Blue Notes 6:30-7:30 pm Miss Jubilee & the Humdingers 8-10 pm

ENTERTAINMENT:

Wine Bottle Juggler 5-7 pm Painting Exhibit 5-9 pm Champagne Diva 6-9 pm

www.claytonmusicandwinefestival.com

Open for Lunch on Saturday and Sunday at University City starting in May! www.MeltingPot.com

It’s that tIme of year agaIn

It’s Patio Season Come Enjoy Outside Dining at Favazza’s

the Best Italian “on the hILL” Reservations: 314-772-4454 5201 Southwest Avenue St. Louis, MO Favazzas.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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Cheers to the

2017 Sponsors with additional support from:

• the muny • AmericAn cleAners • Vino pAir • the fur And leAther centre • rAndAll’s Wine & spirits compAny • metro lighting • pAinting With A tWist (BrentWood)

Participating wineries:

Bites and samples from:

Wine pairings with:

• AugustA Winery • BAlducci VineyArds • Belmont VineyArds • chAumette VineyArds & Winery • cooper’s hAWk Winery • lAchAnce VineyArds • montelle Winery • noBoleis VineyArds • Wines from prp Wine internAtionAl • stone hill Winery • VillA Antonio Winery • Wild sun Winery

• BeAst crAft BBQ co.

• fArm to you mArket • fAVAzzA’s • kolAche fActory • the melting pot • ruth’s chris steAk house • scApe AmericAn Bistro • the silly goose • southern

• chocolAte chocolAte chocolAte • compAnion • lArder & cupBoArd • oliVino • north light speciAlty foods

Additonal Pours from: • spirits of st. louis distillery • st. louis distillery • Wood hAt spirits • BouleVArd BreWing co.

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fine and brandy

Grappa makes a comeback on p. 40. photography by jonathan gayman

frosé

all day Written by natalie GallaGher

|

PhotoGraPhy by jonathan Gayman

If rosé is the ubiquitous summer wine, then frosé is the warm-weather cocktail trend capitalizing on its endless drinkability. Think of it as a way to invite some childhood nostalgia into your grown-up world: Perfect for summertime sipping, frosé will cool you down in no time.

make your own frosé edg-clif farms & vineyard’s twilight: This semi-dry Chambourcin wine won Best in Class in the rosé category at the 2016 Missouri Wine Competition. It’s fermented with French yeast and aged in stainless steel, giving it strawberry, kiwi and peach flavors. noboleis vineyards’ dry rosé: Noboleis’ dry rosé won a silver medal at the 2013 Finger Lakes Wine Competition. It features aromas of cherries, raspberries and plums with a velvety finish. amigoni urban winery’s urban rosé: This rosé is made from Cabernet Franc grapes and aged for six months in Missouri oak barrels. The light pink color comes from soaking the grapeskins for just a few hours before fermentation. It’s made in a dry French style, which is perfect for summer sipping.

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Pirtle Winery WESTON, MO. For those who prefer to

enjoy frosé from the comfort of home, Weston, Missouri’s Pirtle Winery has the perfect product. The winery sells a frozen wine slush mix: All you have to do is add a bottle of rosé wine and blend it with some ice. “I wish I would have thought about selling the mix much sooner,” says owner Scott Pirtle, “because people love it. There’s something about a frozen drink on a hot summer day that just feels right.” The mix, Pirtle says, is a signature recipe that’s prepared and bagged on-site. The flavors and ingredients are all natural, and any wine – red or white, sweet or dry – will work just fine. While the most popular method involves a blender, Pirtle says you can also combine the mix with a bottle of wine and an equal amount of water in a bag or a dish and freeze it for about four hours. The mix is available online, too, and one bag makes 15 to 16 four-ounce drinks.

502 Spring St., pirtlewinery.com

Ça Va KANSAS CITY. If you’re enjoying a glass of bubbles on Ça Va’s delightfully

Parisian-style patio in Kansas City, you’re doing something right. On Tuesdays in May, Ça Va can help you appease your inner child, too. “We have the liberty to take fun drinks and elevate them or make them a little fancy,” says owner and general manager Caitlin Corcoran. “And while we’re all about bubbles, offering something like frosé is a nice reminder to some of our guests that we have some great still wine as well.” Westport’s beloved Champagne bar and French bistro keeps its frosé recipe simple: Rosé is frozen into ice cubes and then blended, along with a little housemade simple syrup to add a touch of sweetness. The result is a beautiful light pink frozen drink that feels every bit as elegant as a tall pour of Champagne. “At Ça Va, we celebrate everything,” Corcoran says, “and what better way to celebrate the start of summer than with a little frosé?”

4149 Pennsylvania Ave., cavakc.com

Canterbury Hill Winery & restaurant HOLTS SUMMIT, MO. Canterbury Hill Winery & Restaurant in Holts Summit, Missouri, has been serving wine slushies since it opened four years ago. They’re dispensed via swirling slushie machines behind the bar. Fitting with the medieval theme (the wines have names like Excalibur and Canterbury’s Tale) Canterbury Hill’s frozen concoctions are Red and Blue Dragon. The first features Canterbury Hill’s Royal Ruby red, a blend of Concord and other Missouri varietals, plus rum, peach schnapps, a housemade strawberry purée, pineapple juice, orange juice and lemon-lime soda. The Blue Dragon is similar, featuring Blue Mist white wine with blue curaçao, blue raspberry vodka, lemonade, orange and pineapple juice and lemon-lime soda. “We frequently sell out in the summer,” says manager Gabrielle Jefferson. “It’s sweet and refreshing... our guests are crazy for it.”

1707 S. Summit Dr., canterburyhill.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops.

Chase CluB Story anD photography by Mabel Suen

ST. louIS. Chase Club recently reopened in the Chase park

plaza, paying homage to the hotel’s bar of the same name that operated during the roaring ‘20s. the revamp features a vintage-style vibe with modern touches, coincided by a casual food menu, an extensive beer program, craft cocktails and enhanced entertainment.

behind the bar, beverage manager Joshua Johnson developed a beer-centric drink menu with 18 different brews on tap and a rotating list of 20 bottles and cans. Fans of the cocktail bar at the neighboring the preston will find a few mixed drinks to choose from here, as well, including Johnson’s personal favorite: the arch rival with bulleit bourbon, which uses Madagascar vanilla beans and a rishi black tea blend; the big o ginger liqueur; freshly squeezed grapefruit juice; and housemade aromatic bitters

garnished with candied ginger. the bar will also feature its own signature whiskey barrel-aged beers in a partnership with Modern brewery in St. louis, set for release this fall. “at the Chase Club, we’re trying to capture the classic feel of the great american hotel bar,” Johnson says. “it’s a step toward the prohibition era with a great selection of drinks.”

212 N. Kingshighway Blvd., chaseparkplaza.com/dining/ chase-club.aspx

Walker’s Bluff Written by liz Miller

photoS CourteSy Walker’S bluFF

CARTERVIllE, Il. amid lush rolling hills along the big Muddy river in Carterville, illinois – just 15 minutes from Carbondale – sits stately Walker’s Bluff. the sprawling property includes a winery and tasting room, acres of vineyards, a “wine cave” aging room and event space and a general store with gift items, plus a small, light lunch menu. the tasting room features a full-service bar, including beer, cocktails and, of course, Walker’s range of wines. try the Solar red, a medium-bodied dry wine with notes of fig, plum, cherry and cranberry jam, made from a blend of zinfandel and Syrah grapes; or the semi-dry Walker’s bluff White, with aromas of gardenia, honeysuckle and jasmine, and flavors of peach, apricot and citrus. the tasting room regularly hosts live music thursday through Sunday, and serves salads, appetizers and brick-oven pizzas.

14250 Meridian Road, walkersbluff.com/tasting-room

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The Belfry Written by Jenny Vergara

|

photography by anna petroW

KANSAS CITY. James beard award-winning chef Celina tio was hoping to move her bourbon and

craft-beer bar, The Belfry, across the street from its current location earlier this year, but when that deal fell through, she simply retooled and reopened the popular Crossroads arts District bar. Serving her usual coveted beers on tap, the belfry has changed its cocktail list, and tio’s most popular craft cocktail, the grand Fashioned, a take on an old Fashioned, is now available on tap. For dinner, look for bar favorites like the house burger and fries or chorizo nachos, along with new dishes like the chicken and biscuit with honey Sriracha and a fried egg. tio is also accepting new members into her beer and whiskey clubs; membership is $45, which includes a cubbie for your drinking mug, swag, special discounts on food and drink, and first dibs on beer dinners and events. it’s nice to see the belfry, with some cozy décor updates, back in business.

1532 Grand Blvd., facebook.com/thebelfrylounge

On

nE

n EO O

como q&A

sarah cooper

assistant winemaker, les bourgeois vineyards WRITTeN BY JeSSICA VAUGhN

|

phoToGRAphY BY AARoN oTTIS

ROCHEPORT, MO. For Sarah Cooper, assistant winemaker at Les Bourgeois Vineyards, enology is a true expression of her personality. “It’s just a natural combination of things that make me happy,” she says. “I thoroughly enjoy getting my hands dirty, and I love to make things and share them with other people.” Cooper joined Les Bourgeois in 2013 as an intern, and after graduating from the University of Missouri in 2015 with a degree in food science and enology, was promoted to assistant winemaker. Cooper believes in welcoming every challenge thrown her way – from battling Missouri’s unpredictable seasons to being a woman in the wine industry – and turning it into something worth remembering.

Tell us about your experience so far working in Missouri wine.

I love it. And I hate it. But I always say I’d be bored working in California, because it’s totally frontier winemaking here. You have no idea what’s going to happen from year to year. My first year as an intern was the biggest and hardest harvest we’ve had since I’ve worked here. The grape estimates were way under – it ended up being 150 to 200 tons more than what we thought we were going to get. So I love that it’s different. It makes for some really hard days, but it makes for some happy surprises, too. What’s your goal at Les Bourgeois? Winning a Governor’s Cup! Really, though, watching Missouri and the Midwest continue to gain recognition as a region that makes quality, competitive wines. We’ve had to utilize entirely new grape varietals and learn how to make quality wines out of them. Being a part of all of that is probably what I love most about my job. What’s happening at Les Bourgeois this summer? We’re releasing three rosés, and having a garden party to release them on May 20. We didn’t intend to have three rosés; we just ended up having to blush off three red varieties, and they turned out well. We’ll have a Chambourcin-St. Vincent that’s darker, and a Norton that’s almost a red wine. It’s totally different – it’s not what you would ever expect from Norton, so I’m excited about it. What’s it like being one of the few women in Missouri’s wine industry?

The simple answer is that it’s exactly the same as being a male winemaker.

My duties are no different than a male winemaker, and they are not encumbered by the fact that I’m a woman. The most frustrating aspect is being treated differently, such as being the only person in the room to be offered a hug instead of a handshake, but that ultimately has no effect on how well I do my job. Luckily those occasions are rare in my daily life because my team 100 percent treats me as their equal. I love my job, and I also love being one more woman proving we can do anything the guys can.

12847 W. Hwy. BB (tasting room), missouriwine.com

A Sneak Peek

at South city’S Newest eveNt space

Scheduled to open May 1 Booking partieS now Contact Sam at smankastp@gmail.com for more information

3707 S. Kingshighway Blvd. | St. Louis, MO 63109 Southtownpub.net | 314.832.9009 Inspired Local Food Culture

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Il Grappolo Story and recipe by Matt Seiter photography by Jonathan gayMan

Il Grappolo ServeS | 1 |

2 ½ ½ 1

granulated sugar oz Grappa Candolini Bianca oz fresh lemon juice oz Cointreau tsp simple syrup orange twist

| preparation | coat the rim of a cocktail glass with granulated sugar. in a shaker with ice, mix remaining ingredients and shake vigorously.

Strain into cocktail glass; twist an orange peel over glass and discard.

Some of the finest libations in the world are made from the fruit of the vine: cognac, Armagnac, sherry and Madeira. But one that has been taking hold of late is grappa. Centuries ago, when grappa was first being produced, it was never intended for the well-to-do, as they preferred the distilled spirits made directly from wine. Grappa was seen as the poor man’s brandy, as it’s made from the remnants of wine production – and more so for the alcohol content, not so much for the flavor. It’s made from marc, or pomace – the skins, pulp, seeds and stems remaining after wine pressing. Those remnants may have fermented depending on whether red or white grapes were used to make the wine; fermented pomace is distilled to make grappa.

Traditionally, grappa is served after meals, neat, as a digestif. Today, though, with many more on the market and the surge of cocktail-lovers, grappa is finding its way into mixed drinks. One easy introduction to grappa is to substitute it in a traditional brandy drink, like this take on a Sidecar.

Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild (USBG)’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of The Dive Bar of Cocktail Bars, bar manager at BC’s Kitchen, and a bar and restaurant consultant.

for a p. 75 pa o t Turn grap ! ouri n Miss endatio m m reco

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WINE

loSt creek Vineyard’S proprietor’S cHoice ProvenAnce: Marthasville, Missouri PAIrIngs: Smoked meats • Blackened fish • Pasta with tomato sauce

Proprietor’s Choice is a medium-bodied, dry red blend that tends to sell out quickly at the Lost Creek Vineyard tasting room in Marthasville, Missouri. it’s made from a combination of estate-grown noiret and locally sourced norton. Lost Creek has one of the oldest commercial plantings of Noiret in the Midwest, and the winery has significantly expanded production of Proprietor’s Choice this year. noiret is commonly used as a blending grape and serves as a nice balance to the bold tannins from the norton in the wine. the blend is fruit-forward and smooth; it has aromas and flavors of blackberry and plum with a hint of cherry that lingers on the finish. Lost Creek is officially releasing Proprietor’s Choice on May 1. lostcreekvineyardmo.com Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City.

4 HandS BreWing co.’S city Wide pilS written by ryan niCkeLson

sTyle: american Pilsner PAIrIngs: Slingers • Square pizza

Pilsner, named for its birthplace in the city of Pilsen – located in the former kingdom of Bohemia, now the modern-day Czech Republic – is a pale lager typically characterized by high, crisp carbonation and floral, earthy, spicy hop flavors. City wide Pils from 4 Hands brewing Co. in st. Louis is cold-fermented like a traditional Czech Pils, but becomes a quaffable and enjoyable american version of the style with the use of Citra hops. this is one of those beers that’s perfect for drinking while grilling outside on a warm day. the best part about the City wide series – the original version is a pale ale – is that 4 Hands donates a portion of every can sold to a local nonprofit. Drinking beer never felt so philanthropic.

4handsbrewery.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, a craft beer shop located at 8113 Maryland Ave. in Clayton, Missouri. To learn more, call 314.222.2444 or visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.

SPIRIT

gary hoover

owner and winemaker, endless summer winery

written by HiLary HeDges

BEER

n eo o

ne

on

on The shelf : mAy PIcks

Wood Hat SpiritS’ Black Walnut liqueur written by Jenn tosatto

ProvenAnce: new Florence, Missouri (27.5% abV) Try IT: in place of vermouth in a Manhattan

Fresh off a win at the 2016 new york international spirits Competition for Missouri Liqueur Distillery of the year, wood Hat spirits brings us something special with its black walnut Liqueur. Produced locally “from tree to glass,” it plays on a classic italian nocino, trading the green walnuts with Missouri black walnuts. the result is a rich, dark, compelling liqueur, with hints of baking spices and cardamom that really bolster the walnut flavor. it may be used well in place of sweet vermouth in many a recipe, but is deep enough to stand on its own as a digestif. this is a must-try for adventurous drinkers looking for something a little outside the box. woodhatspirits.com You can find Jenn behind the stick and at the helm of the new bar program at Kansas City’s Q39. She also loves donating her skills to many charity events around the city, as well as working private events.

q&A

story anD PHotograPHy by PorCsHe n. Moran

hermAnn, mo.

at Endless Summer Winery in Hermann, Missouri, you won’t find any fermented grapes. owner and winemaker gary Hoover prefers to use other fruits, such as pineapples, blackberries, peaches and cherries to make his wine.

Hoover even makes wines from pecans, jalapeños and habaneros.

He sources as many of his ingredients as he can from Missouri farms, and endless summer’s wines have no artificial flavors, colors or juices. the wines, which range from semi-dry to semisweet, are available at the tasting room in Hermann. you can also purchase bottles at 17 retail locations in Missouri (with a possible seven more this year) or through the winery’s website.

What inspired you to make nongrape wines? My background as a fine-dining chef gave me the courage to step out of the box and try more unusual things with wine. i find it fun to experiment and see what i can come up with. i decided to do fruit wines when i was making wine at home as a hobby. at my age, starting and maintaining a vineyard is more work than i want to do. i purchase as much of my fruit as i can from Missouri farmers, instead of growing it myself, because i don’t want to maintain an orchard. it’s also expensive to buy land, fruit trees and equipment. What’s your favorite wine you’ve made? i really like the new cranberrytangerine wine that we’ll have out in late 2017 or early 2018. we made a small test batch first to taste. it goes well with pork, turkey and wild game. the pecan-maple wine is another one that stands out for me. it’s layered with Vermont maple syrup [flavor] at the front and the pecan flavor at the finish. it’s a nice after-dinner drink. the price of pecans has gone up, so i don’t know when i’ll make it again – i only have 200 bottles of it left for the year. What ingredient do you work with the most? the pineapple wine is what people ask for the most, followed by the pecan-maple and the jalapeño. we increased production of the pineapple wine by 100 gallons in 2016, and we’re increasing it by another 150 gallons for 2017. it’s a very versatile wine that’s nice for summer. you can mix it with orange juice or mango juice for a cocktail. it goes well with seafood: on our website, we have a drunken shrimp recipe, which uses the pineapple wine as a marinade. What can visitors expect when they come to Endless Summer? i don’t charge a fee for my tastings. My wines are so much different than the others you will find in Hermann. People think they’ll be too sweet, but they are pleasantly surprised when they taste them. we try to give good customer service – it’s not a job for us. we enjoy our customers.

11 Grosse Lane, endlesssummerwinery.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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1727 Park Avenue St. Louis MO 63104 314-231-2537 Creating a Little Magic in Historic Lafayette Square

bringing the farm-to-table

experience to life

2620 S Glenstone Ave | Springfield, MO 65804 (417) 864-6994 | farmersgastropub.com

Fresh Air Fresh Food Fresh Beer Best Outdoor Dining

Follow us!

Twitter: @SquareOneBrews Facebook: Square.One.Brewery.and.Distillery Instagram: SquareOneBrewery www.squareonebrewery.com 42

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Weddings • Special Events • Weekend Getaway Wine Tastings • Vineyard Tours • Craft Beers Potosi, MO • www.edg-clif.com

patio dining

promotion

Barcelona Tapas

STL

The full-service patio at Barcelona Tapas in Clayton, Missouri, resembles breezy European-style sidewalk cafés. It’s perfect for relaxing with a pitcher of sangria and authentic Spanish tapas. On Wednesdays, spice up your night with live music on the patio starting at 6:30pm.

STL

314.863.9909, barcelonatapas.com

the blue owl restaurant&bakery

mo

Favazza’s

In the riverside town of Kimmswick, Missouri, The Blue Owl Restaurant & Bakery serves hearty breakfasts, country-style lunches and award-winning desserts from its charming Southern veranda.

STL

636.464.3128, theblueowl.com

Delta Queen Port of Call

mo

After enjoying the scenery from the Delta Queen steamboat’s decks in Kimmswick, Missouri, head to the picturesque patio at Port of Call, which features live music on the weekends starting Memorial Day.

bishop’s Post Favazza’s

Bishop’s Post

Bask alfresco like the Italians: the patio garden at Favazza’s on the Hill in St. Louis features a covered pavilion, outdoor bar and a plaza area with umbrella-covered tables. It has quickly become a customer favorite since brothers and co-owners John and Tony Favazza added it a few years ago. From a party of two wanting a great open-air experience for lunch or dinner to private events, rehearsal dinners and weddings up to 150 guests, the patio is available year round, including in the winter.

In Chesterfield, Missouri, Bishop’s Post is a contemporary eatery offering upscale traditional fare from a seasonal menu and has a scenic, outdoor patio bursting with natural elements. The tables, shaded by umbrellas, are surrounded by a babbling brook, waterfall, fresh foliage and shrubbery, and budding flowers. Kick off patio season with happy hour Monday through Friday from 4 to 6pm, featuring food and drink specials from a bar and patio menu.

314.772.4454, favazzas.com

636.536.9404, bishopspost.com

636.223.7170, dqportofcall.com

Cooper’s Hawk Winery & Restaurants Producing over 600,000 gallons of award-winning wine each year from locations across the U.S., the Town and Country, Missouri, outpost of Cooper’s Hawk Winery & Restaurants offers a picturesque

Farmers Gastropub

sgf

Spend an afternoon with the whole family in the cool patio shade at Farmers Gastropub in Springfield, Missouri, with a daily happy hour and bottomless Mimosas and Bloody Marys during weekend brunch for $10.

417.864.6994, farmersgastropub.com

STL

view overlooking a man-made lake and fountain on its patio. After lunch or dinner, take a glass of wine from its extensive list with you for a stroll along the shaded walkway that snakes behind the patio.

636.489.0059, coopershawkwinery.com

STL

patio, there is plenty of space to get a taste of the Turkish, Mediterranean and Whenever the weather is nice, Lebanese fare, including the head to the patio at Aya Sofia meze small-plates platter in St. Louis’ Lindenwood with hummus, crispy Feta, Park – it’s guaranteed to be stuffed grape leaves and open, ready for you to settle tabbouli. Plus, happy hour into the covered tables and on the dog-friendly patios secluded booths. With both a runs Tuesday through Friday bar patio and a dining-room from 5 to 7pm.

Aya Sofia

314.645.9919, ayasofiacuisine.com

Inspired Local Food Culture

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promotion KC

Lucas Park Grille

STL

The patio at Lucas Park Grille is a hidden treasure in Downtown St. Louis. Boasting two fire pits, comfortable couches and regular seating for dining from the New American menu, the quiet and cozy retreat is popular among visitors and locals after visiting nearby attractions.

314.241.7770, lucasparkgrille.com

The Raphael Hotel

The Melting Pot

STL

The new patio at the University City, Missouri, location of The Melting Pot provides an alfresco experience of its signature cooking style, with new fondue warmers just installed for an interactive lunch, quick appetizer, dinner or late-night dessert next to the hustle and bustle of The Loop.

STL

314.725.4141, meltingpot.com

Q39

KC

Q39 opened an outdoor dining option to expand the popular barbecue restaurant in Kansas City, open rain or shine. The West 39th Street covered patio offers both full-service dining and ample seating while you wait for a table and enjoy hand-crafted cocktails and local beers from the walk-up bar.

herbie’s

816.255.3753, q39kc.com

The Raphael Hotel Herbie’s The courtyard patio at The Raphael Hotel offers a beautiful view of Country Club Plaza in Kansas City, complete with umbrellas and fire pits for additional comfort on spring evenings. Food and beverage service is provided by the Chaz on the Plaza culinary team, and half-price appetizers and drink specials are offered during happy hour from 4 to 6pm Monday through Friday. While you dine on Fridays and Saturdays, enjoy live music presented on the Raphael Terrace from 4 to 7pm, May through October.

Herbie’s two large patios provide a relaxing corner in Clayton, Missouri, to eat, drink and listen to music. Executive chef Patrick Shaughnessy’s light and inventive fare is as good alfresco as it is inside, as are the signature cocktails. Open for lunch on weekdays, brunch on weekends and dinner every night, the patio features live music three nights a week – with R&B musician Theo Peoples headlining every Wednesday – happy-hour specials daily from 2 to 6pm and multiple TVs tuned to local sports.

816.756.3800, raphaelkc.com

314.769.9595, herbies.com

The Rack House Kitchen Wine Whiskey Take advantage of the warm weather, and enjoy chef Philip Day’s new seasonal menu on the patio at The Rack House Kitchen Wine Whiskey in Cottleville, Missouri. It won’t be long before the wisteria is in full

bloom on the pergola, which makes for a great way to spend time with friends and family while sipping a glass of wine and enjoying from-scratch American comfort food for lunch or dinner.

636.244.0574, therackhousekww.com

STL

Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria The new-and-improved patio at Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria is now open: Outside the popular Rock Hill, Missouri, restaurant that specializes

in housemade pasta and hand-crafted pizza is a lush vegetable garden supplying seasonal herbs and produce.

Alongside the garden are covered tables and lounge seating to enjoy live music and selections from the new spring menu, as well as cocktails from the outdoor bar.

314.942.6555, katiespizzaandpasta.com 44

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Ruth’s Chris steak house

STL

Past the sleek bar and cozy booths at Ruth’s Chris Steak House in Clayton, Missouri, is a cozy outdoor patio.

Enjoy daily happy-hour specials and live music on Fridays from plush couches and patio tables.

314.783.9900, ruthschris.com/clayton

STC

promotion STL

SquareOneBrewery and Distillery

STL

The patio at Square One Brewery and Distillery in St. Louis emulates New Orleans streetside cafés. Order a flight of freshly brewed beer, or try a cocktail made from a small-batch Spirits of St. Louis product.

314.231.2537, squareonebrewery.com

seven gables inn

Truffles

STL

After 17 years ,Truffles and Butchery in Ladue, Missouri, has added a new way to experience award-winning contemporary American cuisine and the largest wine list in the state. The newly opened patio is open for lunch, dinner and happy hour (5 to 7pm Tuesday through Friday).

STL

314.567.9100, todayattruffles.com

The Silly Goose

STC

There’s no better way to enjoy late sunsets, sunny afternoons and long evenings in Augusta, Missouri, than at The Silly Goose’s patio. You’ll feel like you’re right at home in your backyard, especially combined with homestyle Southern cooking such as gator gumbo and orange-chipotle ribs.

scape

636.482.4667, sillygoosemo.com

seven gables inn

Scape

Spring for the perfect venue at Seven Gables Inn in St. Louis. The outdoor courtyard is a relaxing oasis to enjoy lunch and dinner from Molly Darcys, or it’s a scenic spot to host a special event.

Guests love staying in one of the inn’s 32 newly renovated rooms while enjoying the beautiful courtyard tucked within this charming hotel.

Nestled in the historic and charming Central West End in St. Louis, Scape guests are treated to a stunning alfresco dining experience. Choose between lounging next to a bubbling fountain or sitting under cascading ivy, all under twinkling lights in the European- style courtyard. The patio is open Tuesday through Saturday evenings and Sunday brunch, and sports matchups are shown regularly on the courtyard TVs.

314.863.8400, sevengablesinn.com

Syberg’s dorsett

STL

The recently renovated patio at Syberg’s Dorsett, at the corner of Interstate 270 and Dorsett Road in Maryland Heights, Missouri, has something for everyone: Cozy up to the fireplace, catch the big game on the TVs or relax with food-and-drink specials during happy hour.

314.361.7227, scapestl.com

314.785.0481, sybergs.com

STL

weber grill restaurant Underneath a bright-red, large-scale version of its eponymous product, Weber Grill Restaurant’s patio features two lounge areas for sipping cocktails before your table is ready, as well as seating for 50. Through

the windows, you can catch a glimpse of the live action happening at the Weber Grill Academy classes and private parties, which perfect attendees’ grill skills like steak, surf and turf, barbecue and pizza.

314.930.3838, webergrillrestaurant.com/location/st-louis

MO

Edg-Clif farms & vineyard Visit Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard’s secluded winery surrounded by fields and forests. Views of its vineyards and gardens make this hidden gem in Potosi, Missouri, a 573.438.4741, edg-clif.com

place to relax while sipping award-winning wines and small-batch craft beers. This summer and fall, the open-air pavilion will be the setting for six-course field-to-table dinners paired with Edg-Clif wines. The dinners are a collaboration with chef Jon Emanuel at Old Caledonian Bed & Breakfast.

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Food, wine and Entertainment

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     

6601 highway 94 south | augusta, missouri 63332

Make Reservations Today.

48 Maryland Plaza

• St. Louis, MO • 63108 •

314•361•7227

•

w w w. s c a p e s t l . c o m

6 3 6 . 4 8 2 . 8 4 6 6 • w w w. b a l d u c c i v i n e ya r d s . c o m Inspired Local Food Culture

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matcha maker

Explore matcha, the bright green ingredient in everything from iced coffee to pasta, on p. 52. photo from matcha: a lifestyle guide

TeaTopia sTOry and phOTOgraphy By MaBel suen

st. louis. One of Cherokee street’s tiniest storefronts has a heavenly new tenant. Teatopia opened in January, filling the narrow property with fragrant beverages and nourishing refreshments. The shop features more than 40 different varieties of loose-leaf tea alongside made-to-order smoothies, wraps and salads.

“The tagline I go by here is ‘Brewing better lives one leaf at a time,’” says owner reginald Quarles. “no matter what it is, I want to improve somebody’s daily life in a small way, every day, through one of my cups of tea. everyone is welcome to come and have a seat here.” although the space is small, there’s plenty of room in the kitchen to build big flavors. wooden shelves come stacked high with glass jars full of organic and fair-trade blends and leaves; Quarles sources his tea from africa, sri lanka, India, Japan and China.

The hot drinks – each brewed with carefully tempered water and set steeping times – are served in 20-ounce pots with 10-ounce cups. sixteen-ounce to-go cups are also available. The elaborate tea menu features options organized into green, white, oolong, black, tisanes (herbal), matcha and decaf teas, further broken down by region and complete with tasting notes. One of Quarles’ personal favorites is Jasmine pearls, a rich and smooth everyday green tea from China that’s rolled into little balls by hand and infused with jasmine flowers. additional highlights include cherry-hibiscus, cranberry-orange and darjeeling. To make the most of the bountiful supply, everything from Teatopia’s spreads and dressings to its syrups and fruit smoothies feature tea infusions.

2619½ Cherokee St., teatopiastl.com

wrITTen By nanCy sTIles

riedel vinum extreme rosé provence glass

kes o ma el als cifically d e i R pe wo ses s glas ned for t ls: g i ta s de varie ouri and s s i M on Nort les. o g Vi n

as we head into rosé season, riedel has a new glass sure to enhance your sips. The glass was specifically designed to highlight rosé’s earthy minerality and fruity aroma, and the diamond-shaped bowl is ideal for younger wines. The shape also provides a wide surface area, which increases alcohol evaporation to intensify the wine’s aroma and remove astringency.

For more information or to purchase a set of the glasses, visit riedel.com. phOTO COurTesy rIedel

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the oak bottle The Oak Bottle is a must-have for oenophiles wanting to experiment with aging their own wines and spirits at home. Take an inexpensive Chardonnay or whiskey and age it quickly; the Oak Bottle accelerates the oaking process and imparts a range of available flavors, from smoke, coffee and bourbon to citrus, chocolate or cherry. It’s available in three different sizes, and you can add custom engravings.

For more information or to purchase the bottle, visit oakbottle.com. phOTO COurTesy Oak BOTTle

30th Annual

Presented by

W I N E R Y Mother’s Day Weekend May 12–14, 2017

Laumeier Sculpture Park 30th Annual Art Fair Friday, May 12 / 6:00–10:00 p.m.

Saturday, May 13 / 10:00 a.m.–8:00 p.m.

Sunday, May 14 / 10:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m.

Presenting Sponsor

Supporting Sponsor

Supporting Sponsor

Leading Sponsor

Contributing Sponsor

Wild Sun Winery¼ Where the outside world ends and serenity begins.

Supporting Sponsor

For information regarding Weddings/Private Events, email us at info@wildsunwinery.com

Patron Sponsor

Concord Call Green Park Call Oakville Call SunCrest Call Mail Call Welcome Call callnewspapers.com callnewspapers.com/mobile onCall e-Newsletter

Follow us for our weekly music lineup.

$10 / Ages 10 and under are FREE

4830 Pioneer Road, Hillsboro, MO 63050 636-797-8686 | www.wildsunwinery.com

Laumeier Members are FREE LAUMEIER SCULPTURE PARK 12580 Rott Road / Saint Louis, Missouri 63127 / 314.615.5278 www.laumeier.org

Now in the Central West End An Oil & Vinegar Emporium Just in time for Easter and Passover, we have a limited amount of award winning Israeli Olive Oils!

Shop with us for your gourmet salt, pasta, sugar, and seasoning needs.

West County 118 West County Center St. Louis, MO 63131 (P) 314.909.1171

St. Charles 617 S Main St St Charles, MO 63301 (P) 636.724.8282

115 N. Euclid between West Pine and Lindell• diolivas.com

Furniture Repaired, Furniture Refinished 5 Year Workmanship Guarantee Quality Craftsmanship • Refinishing • Reupholstery Antique Restoration Repair • Custom Made Draperies Custom Made Furniture • New Furniture • Antiques Monday - Friday 8am - 4:30pm Appointments & Service Available 24 Hrs. A Day, 7 Days A Week

Since 1893

Just east of 3400 S. Kingshighway We accept Discover, Visa, Mastercard and American Express

4821 Fairview Ave., St. Louis • 314.832.1555 • zollingerfurniture.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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on

ne

n eo o

mo

q&A

brent baker

owner, old woolam custom bottling WRITTeN BY HIlARY HedgeS

| PHOTOgRAPHY BY CURT deNNISON

owensville, mo. Brent Baker travels across the Midwest helping winemakers with the final

step of the process: going from barrel to bottle. Old Woolam Custom Bottling is based in Owensville, Missouri, near Hermann, but Baker crisscrosses the state for winemakers at Chaumette Vineyards & Winery, Noboleis Vineyards, Amigoni Urban Winery, Peaceful Bend Vineyard and more. He has spent the past decade perfecting his craft, leading to more growth and efficiency in the local wine industry.

What made you want to get into the wine industry? I’ve always wanted to start my own business, but had a successful career in the printing industry. With the onslaught of the digital age, printing continued to diminish, and I felt it was time to go out on my own. I’ve always had interest in the craft beverage business, starting with home-brewing back in the early ’90s, then opening a microbrewery, Roller Mill Brewing Co., a few years later. About 15 years ago, I became friends with a local winemaker and helped him hand-bottle for several years. It’s a tedious and time-consuming process. After hand-bottling countless times, I realized it was a very inefficient process, and it wasn’t the best for the wine. My friend had recently purchased an automated bottling line, and I helped him install [it] and [trained him] to run it. That’s how this whole party got started. Your job is more than just filling bottles. Can you explain what you do and what goes into bottling wine? To be successful, you must wear a lot of hats: mechanic, electrical technician, salesman, bookkeeper, cellar master, consultant, driver. This is a one-man operation, so I’m responsible for dealing with any issues that come up. If equipment breaks, you have to fix it. You’re taking the winemaker’s baby that has taken months to perfect, and he or she is trusting you to bottle it properly. Once wine is bottle-ready, bottling needs to happen as soon as possible. You must know sanitation, sterilization, filtering and really the whole process of wine production to be good at bottling. Sanitation is of the utmost importance, and we spend a lot of time and effort to ensure a product has sterility in the bottle, and [to] give the wine the very best treatment possible. Did you buy an existing line or build it from scratch? The bottling line was purchased as a stand-alone piece of equipment that’s meant for a static location. We custom-designed the trailer around it and custom-fabricated most of the support equipment. I’m fortunate to have a great fabricator to work with who can take my designs and put them into working solutions for our mobile platform. We carry all the necessary equipment, so the winery only needs to supply the wine, bottles, closures and labels. What part of the job do you enjoy the most? The best part is [helping] people achieving their dreams of operating a winery. In some small way, we’re helping wineries grow and produce a better product. I also like the daily challenge of mobile bottling.

No two days are alike, and you’re constantly having to think on your feet. The biggest part I like is the people we get to work with. I consider all of my customers my friends! What’s your biggest challenge? The amount of time I spend away from home. In some cases, I’m gone up to three weeks at a time. We cover a large area to get the number of bottling days necessary for this to make business sense, which means a lot of travel. What’s the biggest change you’ve seen in the wine industry since you started? Over the past six years, I have seen the quality of wines in the Midwest improve, as well as the technologies that are at the winemaker’s disposal. There are a lot of fantastic wines being produced in the Midwest, and I encourage everyone to get out to your local winery and give them a try. Keep your mind and palate open to varietals you may not be familiar with; you might find a new favorite. oldwoolamcustombottling.com

Matcha: a LifestyLe Guide WRITTeN BY KAITlYNN MARTIN

Jessica Flint and Anna Kavaliunas, two friends living in New York City, have a post-workout ritual: drinking matcha tea on Saturdays. despite changes and conflicts they’ve faced in their lives, the friends have continued to come together for cups of the green-tea goodness. Matcha: A Lifestyle Guide is a comprehensive look at matcha: where it comes from and how to drink and also cook with the healthy Japanese ingredient. With colorful photography by Scott gordon Bleicher and innovative recipes from Ben Mims, the book debunks matcha misconceptions and shares how to brew a cup – or mix it into a cocktail – at home. Recipes range from sweet (think matcha granola and matcha tres leches cake), savory (matcha-marinated tomatoes and matcha pasta) and sippable (matcha Mint Julep and matcha Mojito).

Whether you’re a matcha master or new to the brew, Flint and Kavaliunas’ book serves as a fun and informative guide to the many merits of matcha.

By Jessica Flint and Anna Kavaliunas dovetail.press

welcome to

A Members Only Restaurant

A place to unwind with

artisanal refined atmosphere

cuisine & hand-crafted

cocktails in an amiable & Visit us at our Town and Country Location:

Call for a reservation:

636-489-0059

1146 TOWN & COUNTRY CROSSING DRIVE TOWN & COUNTRY, MO 63017

CHWINERY.COM

reservation and free trial inquiries: membership@bloodandsandstl.com St. Louis, MO | bloodandsandstl.com | 314-241-7263

Fun Food, Happy People, Great Drinks!

Gift Certificates Make Great Gifts!

Join us for Brunch!

Saturdays 10-1 Meaningful Specialty Foods from Small Producers Thoughtfully Curated

106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville 618.307.4830 • clevelandheath.com

7310 Manchester Road • Maplewood, MO 63143 314.300.8995 • www.LarderAndCupboard.com

Mon-Fri 11:00-close, Sat 10:00-close Offering Saturday brunch • First Come - First Serve (No reservations) We Do Not Take Reservations

WINE&CHEESE ADVENTURE! cheese and charcuterie boards

~wine and cheese

pairings

~gourmet sandwiches ~homemade ice cream ~local small batch

delectables

1099 Welt Street, Weston, MO 64098 GREENDIRTFARM.COM/CREAMERY

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Vino Pair written by Jenny Vergara

PARKVILLE, MO. How many times

PHotograPHy courteSy Vino Pair

have you purchased a bottle of wine and had no idea what meal to pair it with? this is a common problem that Vino Pair, based in Parkville, Missouri, is looking to solve. in 2015, founders Michael and Mindy Kearns launched the subscription-based wine and food pairing service, which pairs chef-selected wines with complementary specialty foods and snacks, delivered right to your door. wines featured by Vino Pair are sourced from producers across the globe; they’re often small-batch, retail for $30 to $50 and have earned a 90 to 95 rating from top industry guides. the Kearns are currently scouting local wines to integrate into their rotation, too. local food pairings include packaged products such as Homestead creamery’s Flory’s truckle cheese, Volpi Foods’ Pinot grigio white wine salame and Kansas city canning co.’s clementine-thyme marmalade. a monthly subscription box is $79.95; a one-time trial is $89.95. vinopair.com

artisan products

written by Kaitlynn Martin

hermann wurst haus’ peppered sweet bologna

kakao chocolate’s norton pâtés du vin

HERMANN, MO. wondering what to pair with that bottle of Stone Hill winery or

ST. LOUIS. Kakao Chocolate, with two locations in the St. louis area, took home a good Food award in January for its wine-flavored candy, norton Pâtés du Vin. the jelly-like confection is inspired by pâtés de fruit – a French candy made with fruit, sugar and pectin. in place of traditional fruits such as raspberry and apricot, the Pâtés du Vin incorporates norton wine from augusta winery in augusta, Missouri. a highly concentrated norton flavor is packed into each gel candy, but most of the alcohol content is cooked out. “it’s a really great candy by itself, but it doesn’t need to be a dessert, because it works really well as part of a cheese plate,” says Kakao owner brian Pelletier. after winning the good Food award, interest in the norton Pâtés du Vin has increased, and it’s now available at both locations in clayton and Maplewood, Missouri. “when people try the norton Pâtés du Vin, and we explain that this is candy made out of wine, that is really intriguing to people,” Pelletier says. “once they try it, they really understand how delicious and special it is.”

Hermannhoff Vineyards norton you just bought in scenic Hermann, Missouri?

Hermann Wurst Haus, just off the banks of the Missouri river, believes it has the answer: peppered sweet bologna. the savory treat is stuffed into a cloth casing that’s coated with black pepper – when the cloth casing is removed, the pepper coating remains – and then smoked for five hours before it’s packaged for sale. the bologna is described as “a little bit of sweet, a little bit of heat and a whole lot of goodness,” and complements full-bodied sweet red wines and semisweet whites. Pair the bologna with other local meats, cheese and crackers for an indulgent charcuterie board worthy of at-home happy hour.

multiple locations, kakaochocolate.com PHoto courteSy KaKao cHocolate

234 E. First St., hermannwursthaus.com PHotograPHy by JacKlyn Meyer

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Visit scenic

GRAFTON ILLINOIS Visit for a Weekend, Stay for a Lifetime

www.enjoygrafton.com

Enjoy May in Grafton, IL Catfish Tournament Zip Line

Waterpark Blues Festival

River Boat Cruises Public Boat Launch

MoRe Than 40 Lodging oPTions ✦ ✦ sTaY FoR a WeeKend ✦ ✦ UnLiMiTed dining, danCing, and shoPPing! ✦ ✦ gRaFTon has soMeThing FoR eVeRYone ✦ ✦

Experience the

Grafton Ferry

Save Time-Save Gas A Unique Experience Crossing 2 Rivers of The Mississippi & The Illinois

Hours of Operation: Friday and Saturday 10am to 10pm Sunday 8am to 8pm & Holidays 10am to 8pm

Visit www.enjoygrafton.com for weekly events and schedules

For more info visit www.enjoygrafton.com at the confluence of the rivers in

grafton, illinois 618.786.8439 aeriesresort.com

fine food & drink at the

truly special events at the

WINERY

tERRacE

2017 Riverside Flea Market The Loading Dock Grafton, IL 400 FRONT ST. • 9:00 A.M. - 5:00 P.M.

Flea Market Dates

4 Weekend each month May 27 - 28 Aug. 26 - 27 June 24 - 25 Sept. 23 - 24 July 22 - 23 Oct. 28 - 29 th

Restaurant Open Daily

Furniture • Glassware • Pottery • Antiques • Collectibles www.graftonloadingdock.com

enjoy convenient overnight

lodging

fun & adventure on the

ZiPlinE

Historic Village SHOP • STAY • EXPLORE Share Our Secret!

escapetoelsah.com 4 MiLES fROM GRAfTOn

Perfect River View & Plenty of Parking!

Enjoy Great Daily Food & Drink Specials Watch for the NEW Tree House Deck coming soon!

Grafton Harbor

Featuring a 5 Anchor Marina, Riverboat An Award Winning Seafood & Cajun Creole Menu, Features a Floating Rides, New Boat Rentals, A Floating Winery, Restaurant & Outdoor Deck & Bar A Gift Shop & the New “Rrrr Bar!” 215 Water St, www.graftonoysterbar.com • 618-786-3000 www.graftonharbor.net • 618-786-7678 Grafton, IL

Step across the street to the 3rd Chute Substation Home of the Wine Slushie!

Enjoy Great BBQ & Live Music!

202 W Main Grafton, IL 618-786-8888 Inspired Local Food Culture

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Happy Mother' s Day

From the Prezzavento Family to Your Family Chi Mangia Bene Vive Bene! ªT o Eat Well is to Live Wellº Proudly Serving Authentic Italian Food in a Family Atmosphere.

Call Now To Book Your Mother’s Day Reservations!

Let Us Cater Your Special Occasion Try Our Party Pans For A Delicious Meal For Any Size Group Featuring Daily Lunch & Dinner Specials Reservations Recommended, Hours of Operation: Tuesday - Saturday 11am-10pm • Sunday Noon-9pm • Closed Monday

5442 Old Hwy 21• Imperial • 636.942.2405 • trattoria-giuseppe.com

COME TREAT YOURSELF WITH THE MOST AUTHENTIC THAI FOOD AT THE FIRST THAI RESTAURANT IN ST LOUIS. THE BEST FOR OVER 30 YEARS!

3155 South Grand | St. Louis, MO. 63118 | 314.771.1777 | www.kingandistl.com

Don' t miss our Restyle Event with designer Wendi Ricci May 12 and May 13, 2017 Let Wendi reinvent your old fur for a new look!

Call for your personal appointment today.

7901 Clayton Road • St. Louis, MO 63117 • 314-997-3877 • furcentre.com 56

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JOIN US FOR MOTHER© S DAY BRUNCH OR DINNER! Sunday Brunch & Dinner: Enjoy an amazing breakfast menu with our delicious boozy breakfast cocktails & Chef Mehmet© s Whole Roasted Lamb.

Lunch: Tues-Fri - Dinner: Tues-Sun - Sunday Brunch Happy Hour: Tues-Fri Available for private parties and catering.

Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine. Known for our Meze (small plates), Lamb Dishes, Fresh Fish and Excellent Wine Selection.

6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com

Moms Love vomFASS! Explore our fine products and discover the perfect gifts for Mom. Whether it’s a beautiful culinary oil and fruit balsamic vinegar pairing, a unique and fun liqueur, a rare spirit, or a fine wine, there’s a perfect gift for every Mom at vomFASS. She’ll love it: • Rare Cask Aged Spirits for the Scotch and Whiskey Lover • Enticing and Fun Liqueurs for the Taste - Maker • The Finest Culinary Oils and Balsamic Vinegars • Delectable Deli Items for the Gourmet • Boutique Wines for the Connoisseur • Customizable Gift Options and Gift Sets

vomFASS St. Louis · 7314 Manchester Ave · Maplewood, MO

|

vomFASS KC Plaza · 515 Nichols Rd. · Kansas City, MO

Gallagher© s Restaurant Serving the best fried chicken, house-ground burgers and premium steaks for over a decade!

114 W. Mill St. • Waterloo, IL • 618.939.9933 • gallagherswaterloo.com

Phantom of the Grand © Ole Opry

Interactive Comedy Murder Mystery Amid the fried chicken, line dancing and dinner theater, Tammy Whino, will be performing her one woman show, “Stand by your Man.” But before she can give the performance of a lifetime, the Queen of the Grand ` Ole Opry, ends up DEAD! Who is the murderer? Billy Ray Serious, Naomi Dudd or could it be Nelson Willy?

So ya all come down and help Kenny Rogeers and Dolly Pardon along with all your favorite country western singers, apprehend Tammy’s Killer.

Call for reservations today at 314-533-9830 Bring this ad in for $10 off per person Valid through July 2017. Not valid for groups

Bissell Mansion Dinner Theatre

4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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d n a y e k s i h w e fin

s l i a t k c co e n i s i u c n r e h t u o s n r mode

Located in historic Westport in Kansas City at 4141 Pennsylvania Ave, Suite 104 58

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(816) 216-7000 | julepkc.com

funky town

Get to know funky black trumpet mushrooms, also known as black chanterelles, on p. 62. photography by jennifer silverberg

healthy appetite

Crispy shoestring Fries

story, recipe AND photogrAphy by sherrie cAstellANo

Crispy shoestring Fries With Lemon-FenneL saLt and BuBBLes You’ll need a mandoline to slice potatoes into shoestrings.

With Lemon-FenneL SaLt and BuBBLeS every dish has its drink: tacos and Margaritas, steak and red wine and, for me, fries and dry sparkling wine. sure, both crispy, salty fries and effervescent bubbles can be enjoyed on their own, but when paired together, the comfort and indulgence hit all the right notes.

i find that a refreshing glass or two of dry sparkling wine makes you feel less guilty about eating fries for dinner, too; the acidity and brightness of the wine complement the salty, rich fries. it’s both simple and celebratory, familiar and just a little fancy.

Sherrie Castellano is a health coach, photographer and private chef based in St. Louis. She writes and photographs the seasonally inspired vegetarian and gluten-free blog With Food + Love. She has contributed work to Driftless Magazine, Vegetarian times, go gluten-Free Magazine, Food52 and Urban Outfitters, among others. You can find her hanging with her aviation-enthusiast husband, sipping Earl Grey tea, green juice and/or bourbon.

serVes | 2 |

2 russet potatoes, peeled and sliced into shoestrings 2 Tbsp olive oil 2 Tbsp coarse sea salt zest from 1 lemon ¼ cup fennel fronds, small dice, divided

| preparation | preheat oven to 425°F. line two baking sheets with parchment paper. in a large mixing bowl, toss sliced potatoes in olive oil. spread them evenly onto prepared baking sheets.

Meanwhile, using a mortar and pestle, grind salt, lemon zest and half of fennel fronds. bake ake fries for 20 minutes or until crispy and golden brown, flipping halfway through. sprinkle prinkle with lemon-fennel salt, remaining fennel fronds and enjoy warm with a glass of your favorite dry sparkling wine.

paired up

local must-try sparkling wines Stone hill Winery’s Brut Rosé stonehillwinery.com les Bourgeois Vineyard’s Brut Sparkling Wine missouriwine.com

%PG

Crown Valley Winery’s Chardonel Brut crownvalleywinery.com feastmagazine.com

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Missouri’s Restaurants serving up great food and opportunities in every community across the state

B•R•U•N•C•H

 Second largest private sector employer in Missouri

10am - 3pm $35 per adult $15 children ages 5-12 Children under 5 FREE

 Employ more than 300,000 people  Account for 11% of the state’s workforce

Sunday, May 14, 2017

 1 in 3 Americans gets their first job in a restaurant

restaurants bring fun and flavor into our communities.

Support local restaurants.

1234 Washington A Avenue 314-241-7770 for reservations lucasparkgrille.com

TAKE A Q FROM US

Plan your spring and summer events by booking Q39 today.

Our catering team will help craft a menu of Q39 favorites like hickorysmoked brisket, honey-glazed chicken and apple-brined pulled pork to make sure none of your guests will go home hungry.

Contact our catering manager by calling 816-255-3753 or visiting Q39KC.COM.

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mystery shopper

story and recipe by shannon weber photography by jennifer silverberg

Wine-Soaked Black TrumpeT panzanella WiTh BalSamic-red Wine reducTion This dish pairs beautifully with a dry red wine such as Chambourcin. serves | 4 |

BalsamIc-reD WIne reDuctIon ½ oz dried black trumpet mushrooms 1 cup dry red wine ²⁄₃ cup aged balsamic vinegar 2 Tbsp granulated sugar p panzanella 8 oz Tuscan bread, torn or chopped into 1-inch pieces 2 Tbsp olive oil sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 large tomatoes, cored and chopped into 1-inch pieces 4 oz fresh mozzarella, chopped into ½-inch pieces 1 medium English cucumber, seeded and sliced into ½-inch thick half-moons ½ small red onion, sliced into paper-thin rings ½ oz dried black trumpet mushrooms, hydrated (recipe below) 12 large basil leaves, sliced into very thin ribbons (to serve)

Meet: Black truMpet MushrooMs gotta have that funk.

What Is It? Known as the black chanterelle or the far more dramatic trompette de la mort (trumpet of death), the black trumpet mushroom earns its name. funnel-shaped from bottom to top, suede-soft and slightly wrinkled, the fungus feeds off forest-floor detritus, snuggling near mossy bases of oak and beech trees or near small streams, hiding among dead leaves. black trumpets are great beginner foraging mushrooms: the deep smoke color blends them in seamlessly with dirt and leaf sediment, but no poisonous doppelgängers means you can gather and eat them without worry.

What can I Do WIth them? black trumpets overflow with flavor; eat them fresh for subtle notes of black truffle, which intensify when dried. since they can be found from late summer to early winter, now is a fabulous time to test-drive the dried version. first, rehydrate them in water, vegetable stock or wine, then pile trumpets on spring-pea soup and top with goat cheese; pair with grilled summer squash, tomatoes or asparagus; or use them to add earthy flavor to hot or cold pasta dishes and salads. find dried black trumpet mushrooms at specialty grocery stores and food shops or online through wine forest wild foods at wineforest.com.

Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as bon appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes that the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and life.

| preparation – balsamic-red wine reduction | brush mushrooms with a paper towel to remove dirt. in a saucepan over medium-high heat, heat wine until boiling. let bubble for 1 minute, remove from heat, add mushrooms and soak, 45 minutes. strain hydrated mushrooms and transfer to a bowl; cover and set aside. add balsamic vinegar and sugar to wine, stirring to combine. set over medium-high heat until mixture bubbles; lower heat until just simmering and allow to reduce, 20 to 25 minutes, until liquid has thickened and is slightly syrupy. remove from heat and allow to cool.

| preparation – panzanella | heat oven to 375°f. f spread bread in a single f. layer on a sheet pan and drizzle with olive oil; season with salt and pepper. toast, 10 to 15 minutes, stirring at 5-minute intervals; remove and let cool slightly. toss tomatoes, mozzarella, cucumber and onion together; toss in croutons and divide onto plates. scatter hydrated mushrooms on top. | to serve | scatter basil ribbons over top of each plate; season with salt and pepper to taste. drizzle with cooled balsamic-red wine reduction and serve.

paired up

local must-try chambourcin cave Vineyard’s 2010 chambourcin cavevineyard.com röbller Vineyard’s chambourcin robllerwines.com Kc Wineworks’ chambourcin kcwineworks.com

Powell Gardens, Kansas City’s botanical garden, brings the area’s most celebrated and up-and-coming chefs to its six Missouri Barn Dinners, a delicious outdoor dining experience. Seasonal ingredients from our Heartland Harvest Garden, the nation’s largest edible landscape, are the inspiration for the chef’s creations that evening.

Missouri Barn Dinners 2017

May 21: Chef Carlos Falcon of Jarocho (FEAST’s Chef of the Year Nominee) June 25: Chef Brandon Winn of the Webster House July 23:

Chef Alex Pope of the Local Pig

aug. 27: Chef Calvin Davis of Freshwater Sept. 10: Chef John C. Smith of EJ’s Urban Eatery Oct. 29:

Chef Carmen Cabia of El Tenedor, in collaboration with GastroClub, a supper club series hosted by The Kansas City Star’s food editor and critic Jill Silva.

A Delicious Way to Eat Different.

2604 S. Brentwood Blvd.

314-968-2253

* Space is limited. These Sunday dinners all are from 5 to 8 p.m.

Under a Harvest Moon 5-9pm | Sunday, Sept. 24

An annual fundraiser for Powell Gardens, this event offers cocktails in the Gardens and a spectacular outdoor dinner. This year’s event features Chef Vaughn Good of Hank Charcuterie in Lawrence, Kan., who is nominated for FEAST’s Chef of the Year.

Coming Soon To Manchester

Hours: Mon. – Sat. 6 A.M. – 2 P.M., Sun. 7 A.M. – 2 P.M. Order online at KolacheFactoryToGo.com

For ticket info, visit PowellGardens.org or 816-697-2600

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quick fix

Mussels

in White Wine-Garlic Sauce

story and recipes by Gabrielle deMichele photoGraphy by jennifer silverberG

Mussels in White Wine-Garlic sauce Cherry tomatoes are an easy way to add a little more acid, sweetness and color to this dish; choose the freshest you can find. Serve mussels with warm, crusty garlic bread and a bottle of your favorite Vidal Blanc. serves | 4 tO 6 |

2 tsp plus 2 Tbsp unsalted butter, divided 1 small yellow onion, large dice 2 leeks, cleaned and thinly sliced 1 small fennel bulb, large dice 6 large garlic cloves, minced salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 cups dry white wine 5 lbs mussels, scrubbed and debearded ½ pint cherry tomatoes, sliced in half 1 tsp chopped fresh chervil 1 tsp chopped fresh tarragon 2 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley 1 cup heavy cream or crème fraȋche 2 lemons, zested and juiced

Several varietals of local wine complement the delicate flavor of seafood, including Traminette, Chardonel and Vidal Blanc.

Heavier dishes like curried shrimp and Cajun fish pair well with Traminette; Chardonel complements halibut and trout.

Redolent with notes of grapefruit and lemon, Vidal Blanc makes a perfect pair with shrimp, salmon, sushi and mussels.

Vidal Blanc accounts for just 7 percent of the grapes grown in Missouri, and the French-American hybrid grape is most often used to produce sparkling, dry or semi-dry white and dessert wines. In this recipe, the fruity, citrus flavors and crispness of Vidal accent the fresh herbs and lemon zest and juice, enhancing the flavor of the broth used to flavor the mussels.

chef’s tip OPEN uP. Mussels are delicious and fun to eat; they just require a little work. You must clean and scrub mussels thoroughly before cooking them, and they should be stored on ice prior to use. Use a sturdy brush to scrub mussels and carefully pull off their beards. Prior to cooking, if a mussel is open and doesn’t close when tapped, discard it.

the menu • Asparagus Salad • Mussels in White Wine-Garlic Sauce • Crab and Cod Pie • Lemon Meringue Pie

LEarN MOrE. In this class, you’ll learn how to expertly cook mussels at home. You’ll also learn how to make a crisp and springy asparagus salad.

get hands-on: Join Feast magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., May 17, at 6pm at the des Peres, Missouri, location, to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.

| preparation | in a large sauté pan with a lid over medium-high heat, add 2 teaspoons butter. once melted, add onion, leeks, fennel and garlic; season lightly with salt and heavily with pepper. reduce heat to medium and cook for 5 to 10 minutes to soften, but not brown, vegetables. increase heat to high; add wine and bring to a boil. let wine reduce slightly. add prepared mussels all at once and stir. place lid on pan and let cook, occasionally tipping lid slightly to check on mussels. When all mussels have opened, about 7 to 10 minutes, remove pan from heat. Use a spider strainer or slotted spoon to remove mussels to a warm bowl; reserve liquid in pan. cover mussels and set aside. return sauté pan to medium-high heat and bring reserved liquid to a simmer. add tomatoes and herbs and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. add cream or crème fraȋche and whisk to combine. add lemon zest and juice and remaining butter; whisk until butter melts. check warm mussels and return only opened mussels to warm liquid in sauté pan; heat for 1 minute, stirring once or twice. strain and divide mussels into serving bowls, and pour liquid over each bowl. serve immediately.

PaiRed uP

local must-try vidal blanc Hermannhof Winery’s Vidal Blanc hermannhof.com augusta Winery’s 2015 Estate Bottled Vidal Blanc augustawinery.com Lake creek Winery’s Vidal Blanc lakecreekwinery.com

TV

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In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Wednesdays at 7pm.

NO WINES LEFT BEHIND! In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 5:30pm.

Mix or Match any 6 or more 750ml bottles of wine!

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 7pm.

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65

sweet ideas

Lemon Curd story and recipe by christy augustin photography by cheryl Waller

Lemon Curd Almost identical to its parent grape, Muscat, Valvin Muscat pairs well with desserts, especially those with the richness and brightness of lemon curd. Seyval Blanc, a French-American hybrid, has an herbal, fresh aroma with flavors of clean, crisp pear and a hint of spice. A semi-dry style of Seyval will accent the citrusy tartness of the lemon curd. yields | 3 cups |

4 1¼ ²⁄₃ 1¹⁄₃

large eggs cups granulated sugar cup fresh lemon juice (from 6 to 8 lemons) cups unsalted butter, cubed

| preparation | in a pot with a lid over high heat, add 2 inches of water and cover. once water reaches a simmer, in a large metal or glass bowl off heat, whisk together eggs and sugar until thoroughly combined. add lemon juice and place bowl over pot of simmering water. reduce heat to medium and allow to cook while gently whisking. the curd is done when thickened and a whisk leaves lines while stirring, about 20 to 25 minutes.

traditionally used as a spread on crumpets or scones and served at high tea in england, lemon curd is the most delicious of simple dessert recipes. it’s excellent served with berries, layered into a birthday cake, spooned on top of waffles or eaten with a spoon straight from the jar. the acid of fresh lemon juice sets, or curds, the egg and sugar mixture. Finished with butter, it's smooth and creamy. at my bakery, pint size, we use a 50-50 mixture of fresh lemon juice and passion fruit purée for an intensely floral lemon curd. (We actually call this recipe lemon crème at the bakery, as it has a higher butter content than a typical lemon curd.) this version sets more firmly and makes a great filling for our bundt cakes, cupcakes and layer cakes. our method calls for cooking the curd over a water bath: a heatproof bowl set over a pot of simmering water protects the custard from overheating (and thus from breaking or scrambling as it cooks the eggs). take care to note the temperature of your curd before adding the butter or it will melt instead of emulsify. the butter should be removed from the refrigerator and cubed right before you begin, so the resulting texture is soft but still firm.

Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. See more at pintsizebakery.com.

strain curd through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl and set aside to cool to approximately 130°F using a candy thermometer. add butter, cube by cube, while whisking to slowly incorporate. refrigerate overnight before serving. curd will hold for up to 2 weeks refrigerated, or for 3 months frozen. (this method of making lemon curd doesn’t work for heat-sealing in canning jars.)

paired up

local must-try seyval blanc and valvin muscat Fence stile Vineyards & winery’s Missouri seyval fencestile.com Montelle winery’s 2016 seyval Blanc montelle.com Blumenhof Vineyards and winery’s 2016 Valvin Muscat blumenhof.com

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crush the competition

Behind the scenes at the Missouri Wine Competition, where nine judges from across the U.S. blind-taste local wines to name the best of the best.

| 85 |

deep roots

How the rise, fall and renewal of Missouri’s wine country led to the establishment of the state’s American Viticultural Areas.

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the long and wining road

Explore history, natural beauty and our thriving wine country along Missouri’s 240-mile state park, the Katy Trail. pHoTo of STonE Hill WinE Co.’ S STAff CirCA 1890 (p. 85) CoUrTESy STonE Hill WinEry

Behind the scenes at the Missouri Wine Competition, where nine judges from across the U.S. blind-taste local wines to name the best of the best Written by natalie GallaGher and hilary hedGes

L

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photoGraphy courtesy missouri Wines

ast July, wine experts from across the country gathered in columbia, missouri, to judge the 2016 missouri Wine

competition. nine judges blind-tasted 308 missouri wines from all parts of the state to find the best wines in several categories. twenty-three wineries walked away with gold medals, with 99 silver and 114 bronze medals also awarded. but only seven received top honors with best of class awards in seven different categories, as well as the prestigious Governor’s cup and c.V. riley awards.

We’re diving into each category to learn the stories behind these award-winning vintages and the winemakers who brought them to life. –H.H. 72

feastmagazine.com

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But first, let’s get to know our local varietals...

Missouri wines are made mostly of French-American hybrids – crosses between European Vitis vinifera grapevines and native American grapevines. Outside of the East Coast and the Midwest, grapes such as Chardonel and Traminette are rarely used for wine production, and therefore don’t have the same name recognition as popular Vitis vinifera varieties such as Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon. In the Midwest, such hybrid grapes are being made into quality wines thanks to dedicated winemakers, so it’s time to get to know these grapes. –N.G.

← Seyval blanC This French-American hybrid produces a semi-dry or dry, crisp white wine. It can be light- or mediumbodied, and pairs well with salads and seafood – particularly scallops.

Catawba → Catawba is a native American grape indigenous to North Carolina. It’s commonly used to make medium-bodied wine in a sweet blush style. Catawba is often paired with barbecue; the grape’s strawberry notes are a perfect match for a spicy, tangy sauce. ← vignoleS Vignoles is a versatile French-American hybrid grape that can be produced in a variety of styles, from dry to semi-dry to sweet. The food-friendly wine usually takes on tropical notes, making it an excellent match for spicy mexican and Thai food.

ChambourCin → Red wine made from Chambourcin grapes is typically medium-bodied and produced in dry or semi-dry styles. There’s a lovely, earthy quality to the grape that lends well to food pairings – especially smoked meats, mushrooms and tomato sauce. ← vidal blanC Another French-American hybrid, Vidal Blanc produces a crisp white wine that can take on grapefruit and other citrus notes. It can be produced as a sparkling or dessert wine, but it’s most commonly found as a dry white.

ConCord → The same Concord grapes used to make Welch’s juice are also used to produce a sweet red wine, not unlike a dessert wine.

Pair a glass of Concord with peanut butter cookies for a grown-up play on a PB&J.

← Chardonel There are two camps of Chardonel: oak-aged and unoaked (aged in stainless steel tanks). The grape is a FrenchAmerican hybrid of Chardonnay and Seyval Blanc that produces a full-bodied, dry white wine. The aging process affects the flavor profile in ways reminiscent of its parent grape, Chardonnay: Oakaged Chardonel tends to have notes of butter and earth, while a steel-fermented Chardonel will have notes of citrus. traminette → Traminette is a French-American hybrid with a wonderful floral character. It’s usually made in dry or semi-dry styles, but occasionally Traminette is used in a semi-sweet style. With Gewürztraminer as a parent grape, the wine holds its own against rich or spicy foods and cheeses – especially aged sheep’s milk cheeses, aged Cheddar and Gruyère. ← norton Norton is a native American grape and the official state grape of missouri. Although it’s largely produced as a big-bodied dry red, it can also be found in red blends and makes a fantastic port-style wine. Norton is a food-friendly wine with a lot of versatility – think game meats, pasta, salmon and even a chocolate torte.

the g o ver for the nor’s cup is rese top wi rved n best o f Class e among all t w h e i c.v. ri ley aw nners, while the a r d is to nor only o tons th pen gold m at were awa rded edals e arlier i the co n mpetit ion.

dry white 2014 vidal blanc from stone hill winery in hermann, missouri

Stone Hill Winery senior winemaker Dave Johnson says the 2014 Vidal Blanc is a vintage where all of the vineyard and winemaking decisions combined to produce an exceptional wine. Stone Hill is in the Hermann American Viticultural Area and used estate-grown Vidal Blanc grapes in this award-winning wine.

“While we have won 26 Best of Class awards since 2008 at the Missouri Wine Competition, it is especially gratifying to win Best Dry White with such a value-priced wine,” Johnson says.

Stone Hill’s Vidal Blanc is rich and complex, a result of the fermentation and aging process. Only the free-run juice is used, which is retrieved during processing prior to being pressed.

The 2014 Vidal Blanc was aged sur-lie, primarily in tank, with about 10 percent aged sur-lie in barrels; this means it’s left on top of the yeast for an extended amount of time. Doing so adds texture, depth and hints of oak to the wine.

Meet the seven wines that took home top honors in 2016

It has flavors and aromas of apple and melon with a hint of spice. –H.H. 1110 Stone Hill Hwy., stonehillwinery.com

semi-dry white 2015 vignoles from st. james winery in st. james, missouri

The Best of Class award was only one highlight of the competition for St. James Winery in St. James, Missouri: Its Vignoles also received the competition’s highest honor – the Governor’s Cup – for the second consecutive year.

“We are ecstatic for our vineyard and winery,” says executive winemaker Andrew Meggitt.

“The team works very hard to ensure the grapes and wine are the best that they can be.

This honor is the result of great teamwork.”

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St. James Winery is in the Ozark Highlands American Viticultural Area, and the grapes in the 2015 vintage were grown on two different vineyards within the estate. One site is slightly warmer than the other, resulting in subtle differences in the flavor of the fruit. The grapes are pressed separately and fermented slowly for 23 days in stainless steel before blending and bottling. The result is a fruit-forward wine with floral aromas, flavors of pineapple and stone fruit and a crisp, clean finish. The winery says the combination of weather, soil and care of the grapes contributed to a unique vintage.

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twilight from edg-clif farms & vineyard in potosi, missouri Sixty-five miles southwest of St. Louis sits Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard in Potosi, Missouri. What was originally a cattle ranch founded in 1936 is now a 2,500-vine vineyard and winery.

Winemaker and co-owner Cyndy Keesee created Twilight, the wine recognized as Best of Class in the rosé category.

The wine was made with very ripe Chambourcin grapes that were allowed short contact time with the skins. It was fermented with French yeast and aged in stainless steel, resulting in an aromatic wine with strawberry, kiwi and peach flavors, with a bit of grapefruit and a lush mouthfeel. “We call it a sweet white Chambourcin,” Keesee says.

The Vignoles has also been recognized at competitions across the globe, including the Indy International Wine Competition and the International Eastern Wine Competition. –H.H.

“This is a tremendous honor that we as a vineyard and winery are striving to achieve in all our wines,” Keesee says.

“The hand-harvested, handcrafted and singular attention to each batch and each bottle is what makes ours and other Missouri wines unique and consistent.” –H.H.

540 State Route B, stjameswinery.com

10035 Edg-Clif Drive, edg-clif.com

Dry reD 2014 norton from noboleis vineyards in augusta, missouri

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sParkling wine Noboleis Vineyards has bragging rights as the best Norton in the state after winning the prestigious C.V. Riley award, which recognizes the top wine made from Missouri’s state grape.

effervescent mead from pirtle winery in weston, missouri

When owners Bob and Lou Ann Nolan planted the vineyard in 2005, the Norton vines were placed on the north slope of the property “because they have a longer growing season and tend to struggle more on a north-facing slope.” The goal was to achieve the right balance of nourishment, ultimately creating a higher-quality grape.

Orange-blossom honey is used to make the winery’s sparkling Effervescent, as well as its traditional, blackberry and raspberry meads; Pirtle says the honey is lighter than other varieties and leads to better flavor. The sparkling wine has a beautiful, rich golden tone and a light effervescence that offers a nice balance to the sweetness of the honey. Pirtle says the Effervescent and the traditional mead age nicely and gain more complexity over time.

The 2014 vintage saw a long and cold winter; the Nolans delayed harvest as long as possible to allow the smaller-than-normal crop to ripen. The result was quality over quantity: The low yield led to grapes with more concentrated flavors.

Winemaker Brandon Dixon then aged the wine in small oak barrels and one large Hungarian oak barrel for about seven months. “To me, winemaking is artistry in a bottle,” Dixon says. “Each year the goal is the same: take what Mother Nature has given us and coax out the best flavors and aromas in the grape.” The Norton is full-bodied with flavors of cherry, black currant and spice, with smooth tannins on the finish. –H.H.

Pirtle is the only winery on the west side of the state to land on the 2016 Best of Class list and takes pride in being recognized. “It’s nice to win competitions,” Pirtle says. “It further validates our commitment to making excellent wines.”

100 Hemsath Road, noboleisvineyards.com

502 Spring St., pirtlewinery.com

The Effervescent mead has also received international acclaim. It took home a gold medal from the Mazer Cup, the biggest mead competition in the world. –H.H.

Dessert/FortiFieD

DistilleD ProDuct from montelle winery in augusta, missouri

Pirtle Winery has been making mead since it was established in 1978. Since there is a year-round supply of honey, it made sense to Pirtle co-owner and winemaker Scott Pirtle to ferment it. It’s also delicious, he says, and one of his best-selling wines. (Mead is often referred to as the oldest fermented beverage in the world. The English tradition of a bride and groom drinking mead from “moon to moon” led to the term “honeymoon.”)

Montelle Winery winemaker and owner Tony Kooyumjian decided to make grappa to reduce waste at his winery. He uses a combination of red grape skins and juice from the last round of grape pressing.

Normally, those skins would be spread across the vineyard to add important nutrients to the soil. And while most of the leftovers from his other wines end up in the vineyard, he reserves the grapes with higher sugar levels to make grappa.

The skins and juice are fermented together at 55ºF. Kooyumjian says his process for making grappa is different because he uses more juice than other wineries, adding additional aroma, flavor and mouthfeel. After fermentation, the wine is extracted and distilled.

The grappa is aged in stainless steel tanks for at least six months and bottle-aged for a month before release.

The result is smooth and balanced with aromas of anise and citrus; it will warm you up from the first sip.

from stone hill winery in hermann, missouri

Stone Hill Winery started making cream sherry in 1998 because, at the time, no other Missouri winery had produced one post-Prohibition. It’s a blend of Concord, Catawba and Traminette that’s fortified with grape brandy to raise the alcohol content.

Stone Hill’s cream sherry is an oloroso style, meaning that it’s full-bodied with a dark-golden to deep-brown color obtained by maderization, an oxidation process that exposes the wine to oxygen and heat. The sherry is then aged in barrels with a modified solera system technique, which uses a blend of different vintages that have aged together over time.

Stone Hill currently has barrels containing a combination of sherries as old as 16 years. This process gives the sherry complexity and depth.

The cream sherry is rich and full-bodied with nutty aromas and bold flavors of caramel and vanilla. It pairs well with dessert or can be enjoyed by itself, either at room temperature or slightly chilled.

“It’s always satisfying to win awards for our products,” Kooyumjian says. “The Best of Class award is very prestigious, and it’s an honor to receive this recognition.” –H.H.

Cream sherry is less common among fortified wines, especially among winemakers in the Midwest. “Given that port is the much more recognized fortified dessert wine, it’s nice to see this special wine, into which we put so much effort, named Best of Class,” says senior winemaker Dave Johnson. –H.H.

201 Montelle Drive, montelle.com

1110 Stone Hill Hwy., stonehillwinery.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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Feast pub lisher Catherine Neville with the e ight other judges at the 2016 Missouri W ine Competitio n

O

n the surface, being a judge at a wine competition sounds like one of the best gigs you could find: Who wouldn’t want to drink through a few dozen of the best vintages in their region and then set about ranking them?

If that were all that went into a wine competition, there would be far less prestige attached to the resulting awards. Over the course of two days, the nine judges for the Missouri Wine Competition will do a blind tasting of more than 300 wines, which are grouped into flights – usually around 10 different wines – based on the grape. (The judges assign each of these a value: gold, silver, bronze or no award.

The “gold” wines are pulled immediately – the judges will taste through these again, plucking the Best of Class from the bunch. From that group, they’ll select a single wine to win the Governor’s Cup. A single Norton wine is also selected from the Best of Class group to win the C.V. Riley award, named for the first-ever state-appointed etymologist and one of the forefathers of Missouri wine.

Choosing the best wines is no simple matter of selecting favorites. Each wine is broken down first by its own merits – color, aroma, bouquet, taste, aftertaste and overall quality – and judges additionally look for texture, acidity, tannins and other phenolic content. If it sounds like a lot to take into account, it is.

“You’re looking for a lot of different compounds – herbal and savory and vegetal and spice – and then texture, which tells you things about pH level and acidity,” says Doug Frost, master sommelier and master of wine – and perennial Missouri Wine Competition judge. “At the end of the day, you’re asking yourself: ‘Is this wine balanced and tasty, or is it out of balance and weird?’ Every grape is different and every wine is different, so you look for technical flaws first, and then it becomes an issue of style and how well that particular style is executed.”

A Chambourcin, for example, can be made in a less overt style – with delicacy and subtlety – or it can be made in a “tutti-frutti” style, Frost says.

Either of those can be impressive if it’s a superlative expression of that particular style – it’s not that one style is inherently better than the other.

judGe GleNN BARdGeTT OF ANNIe GuNN’s

The differences are what make the discussion around the wines so interesting, as each judge has his or her own personal preference – and when it comes to deciding the Best in Class, the Governor’s Cup and C.V. Riley awards, says Frost, that’s when the conversation can get heated.

“Insults start flying quickly when you start choosing the overall best,” Frost laughs. “It’s a very personal part of the day, because you have your reasons for saying the one you prefer is the best one, and so does everyone else.”

Ultimately, the judging experience is most rewarding because of the opportunity to recognize the state’s best and brightest – and there happens to be quite a large pool. “I would put Missouri wines up against anything in the Midwest,” Frost says. –N.G. Editor’s Note: Feast publisher Catherine Neville has served as a judge at the Missouri Wine Competition for the past three years.

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T

he Missouri Wine and Grape Board hosts a number of large-scale events throughout the year, but arguably one of the most important is the Missouri Wine Competition. The rules of the competition and entry forms are sent out to the 130-something wineries in the state, and then the submissions must be sorted: all the paperwork put in order, all the wines cataloged and organized into flights for the judges.

The name of the wine and the vineyard it comes from are erased the moment this happens, and the wine remains anonymous – save for its numerical designation, such as “Flight Three, Wine Seven” – until the competition is complete.

The judges begin their work bright and early at 9am on a Tuesday in July, but the work begins even earlier for the competition’s staff and volunteers. On average, there are 20 to 25 volunteers each year from all walks of life – and each has in common a love of wine. The group arrives on Monday, helping the Missouri Wine and Grape Board staff transport all the wine featured in the competition, getting it unloaded off the truck and sorted either onto tables or into coolers.

One of the most arduous tasks for competition staff and volunteers lies in the glassware, which must be cleaned throughout the event. There’s a glass-polishing team, a serving team and a cleaning team – although volunteers are able to rotate through the teams so everyone has an opportunity to see all aspects of the competition. All of the glassware is Riedel, and wineglasses are uniform for every wine. (Although the company does produce Norton and Vignoles wineglasses, they aren’t used at the competition.)

For the volunteers, the most exhilarating part of the competition is listening to the judges give their thoughts on the wines – and getting to try some of it themselves, which usually happens on Wednesday, after the competition has closed and several dozen open bottles remain, beckoning.

There are never so many Missouri wines gathered in one room together, and the opportunity to taste some of the best the state has to offer, all at once, is rare, indeed.

“There are rows of tables, and they’re filled with wine after wine, all lined up, all produced locally,” says Christa Holtzclaw, marketing specialist for the Missouri Wine and Grape Board.

“It’s quite a sight to see – and to think about how much time and effort goes into every vintage, every bottle. There are a lot of stories and experiences in that one room.”

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The Missouri Wine Competition allows locally made wines to be judged on their own and in their own class.

Comparing a Missouri Chardonel with a California Chardonnay, for example, is rather unproductive; each wine has a different chemical makeup and is cultivated in a different type of climate and soil and produced in different styles. The Missouri Wine Competition allows local winemakers to test their work and products fairly – something that can only encourage more growth in the industry.

“It’s very nice for Missouri wines to have a competition of their own,” Holtzclaw says. “Missouri wineries, for the most part, don’t grow Vitis vinifera, so it’s great to have a competition that allows them to gauge how they’re doing on their own terms, among their peers.

Our judges are trained sommeliers and industry experts, and every year, there are more awards.

“I think winemakers in Missouri face a lot of challenges, but they try new things and push the envelope. And that’s another reason why having this wine competition is so valuable – you’ve got the opportunity to see some truly amazing work pay off.” –N.G.

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2016 Missouri Wine CoMpetition

Gold, silver and Bronze Medal Winners Gold Medal Winners AUGUSTA WINERY 2013 Vintage Port Estate Bottled 2015 Vignoles Estate Bottled BLUMENHOF VINEYARDS WINERY 2015 Missouri Weinland CHANDLER HILL VINEYARDS Black Label Norton EDG-CLIF FARMS & VINEYARD Twilight Vidal Blanc HERMANNHOF WINERY Brut Reserve Hermann KC WINEWORKS 2014 Chambourcin*

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ST. JAMES WINERY 2015 Dry Vignoles 2015 Vignoles* Friendship School White

RED MOOSE VINEYARD 38th Parallel Limberlost RIVERWOOD WINERY Still Cider Barrel Aged RÖBLLER VINEYARD Traminette SAND CREEK VINEYARD & WINERY Chambourcin ST. JAMES WINERY 2014 Cynthiana 2015 Chambourcin Friendship School Red Sauvignon Blanc

HERMANNHOF WINERY Raspberry Rapture

STONE HILL WINERY 2013 Cross J Norton 2013 Estate Bottled Norton 2014 Estate Bottled Norton 2014 Vidal Blanc* 2015 Vidal Blanc Cream Sherry

silver Medal Winners ADAM PUCHTA WINERY 2015 Chardonel Cat’s Meow Desire Dry Rosé Norton - Vintner’s Reserve Situation Red Traminette

LADOGA RIDGE WINERY 2013 Galen’s Red Concord LES BOURGEOIS VINEYARDS 2013 Norton 2014 Norton 2015 Collector’s Series Vignoles Traminette Collector’s Series Moscato Riverboat White Rocheport Dessert Wine LOST CREEK VINEYARD Whistle Stop White

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PIRTLE WINERY 2014 Alhambra 2015 Mellow Red Aronia Berry Wine Blackberry Mead Blueberry Wine Effervescent Apple

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AUGUSTA WINERY 2012 Muscat Estate Bottled 2014 Norton Estate Bottled 2015 Chardonel 2015 Icewine 2015 Vidal Blanc Estate Bottled La Fleur Sauvage Estate Bottled Raspberry River Valley White

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MONTELLE WINERY 2013 Cynthiana Port 2014 Norton 2015 Chardonel 2015 Seyval Blanc 2015 Vidal Blanc Icewine Cherry Eau de Vie Himmelswein La Rosée River Country White

STONE HILL WINERY 2013 Chambourcin 2013 Late Harvest Vignoles 2013 Port 2013 Reserve Chardonel 2014 Chambourcin 2014 Chardonel 2014 Cross J Norton 2014 Port 2015 KC Royals 2015 Steinberg Red 2015 Traminette 2015 Vignoles Blanc de Blanc Brut Rosé Dry Rosé Golden Rhine Hermannsberger Kick’n Berry Moscato Rosé Montaigne

WILD SUN WINERY 2013 Chardonel 2015 Radiance Chaos Red WINDY WINE CO. Blackberry Cobbler Peanut Butter & Jelly Raspberry Santa’s Slay Spiced Pear

Bronze Medal Winners ADAM PUCHTA WINERY Anniversary Port Dry Vignoles Hunter’s Red Misty Valley Riefenstahler Signature Port Vidal Blanc Vignoles ALBONÉE COUNTRY INN & VINEYARDS 2015 Seyval Blanc AUGUSTA WINERY 2012 Norton Reserva del Patron Estate Bottled 2013 Chambourcin Estate Bottled 2013 Norton Estate Bottled 2015 Seyval Blanc Estate Bottled 2015 Traminette Estate Bottled Alluvium Estate Bottled Blackberry Fine Old Tawny River Valley Red BALDUCCI VINEYARDS 2014 Chambourcin 2015 Mia Bella BALTIMORE BEND VINEYARD 2012 Chambourcin 2012 Norton Arrowhead Red Blackberry Stroll BLUMENHOF VINEYARDS WINERY 2013 Cabernet Franc 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Virant Vineyard 2014 Original CYN 2015 Valvin Muscat Devil’s Den Red Katy’s Blush Plan B 2015

STONEHAUS FARMS VINEYARD & WINERY CHANDLER HILL VINEYARDS 2014 Callaway Fork Blush 2015 Vignoles 2015 Old Bridge Chambourcin

Many of the winning wines are blends, which means they’re made with two or more grape varieties. To learn more about these and all of the top wines from 2016, contact the wineries.

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how the rise, fall and renewal of missouri’s wine country led to the establishment of the state’s american viticultural areas Written by nancy StileS

Inspired Local Food Culture

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hen Paulus Gast’s neighbors heard he was going to plant wine grapes, they urged him to reconsider. Potatoes would be a much safer choice.

Twenty-four-year-old Gast had recently returned from fighting in General Sherman’s army, and after marrying in 1865, he bought a few acres of land in the present-day St. Louis neighborhood of Baden. He and his new wife, Emily, cleared the brush themselves, and harvested their first grapes three years later. Gast had become a protégé of Stone Hill Winery founder Michael Poeschel before the Civil War, when he was just 19 and a student at Washington University in St. Louis. Gast built the successful Gast Wine Co. – he later switched to brewing – according to the tenets of viticulture he had learned under Poeschel in Hermann, Missouri; Poeschel even joined him in the enterprise after selling Stone Hill.

Railroads took his wine as far as Florida and Boston – in 1892 alone, he harvested 100,000 pounds of grapes.

Not long after Gast’s death in 1906, Hermann boasted 60 wineries. Then came Prohibition. It took more than 80 years to rebuild Missouri’s wine culture to its former volume – and it certainly didn’t happen overnight.

Missouri finally allowed the issue of domestic winemaking licenses for up to 5,000 gallons in 1943, and St. Louis doctor Axel Arneson first planted hybrid grapes in 1951 (what was previously his livestock farm later grew into Peaceful Bend Winery in Steeleville, Missouri). In 1957, William B. Stolz planted Concord grapes outside of St. James. Others followed, and by the time the production limit was increased in 1973, Stone Hill Winery was making 60,000 gallons per year.

The Missouri wine industry was back in business, and its legacy would soon be cemented, thanks to a new designation from the U.S. government.

An American Viticultural Area, or AVA, is a wine-grape-growing region defined by specific geographic characteristics and boundaries, as designated by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau. Similar to European requirements – legally, a sparkling wine must be made in Champagne, France, to be called Champagne, for instance – 85 percent of a wine’s grapes must be grown within the AVA if the area is referenced on the label.

But the very first designated AVA was not Napa Valley, or even Sonoma, but Augusta, Missouri. It was granted the designation on June 20, 1980, eight months before Napa Valley became California’s first AVA. The basic idea is that each AVA has climate and soil that affect the characteristics of the wine. In Augusta, the soil is Hayne Silt-Loam, a mixture of clay and silt – heavily clay in lower elevations and more silty at higher elevations. Hermann is characterized by sandstone bluffs and a fertile river valley, the combination of which helps counter mildew caused by humidity. The climate in Missouri’s third AVA, the Ozark Highlands, is drier than the other two, but the soil, a combination of sandy loam and clay, retains moisture. All three are now encompassed by a larger AVA: Ozark Mountain.

When most 19th century settlers began to arrive in rural Missouri in earnest, they weren’t planning to plant vineyards. Although wild grapes wound around the ridges and valleys of the Missouri River, the first German pioneers were hoping to build a center of manufacturing and agriculture, like St. Louis. What they built was the foundation for today’s wine country.

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When Michael Poeschel first moved to in Hermann from Altenburg, Germany, in 1839, immigrants from the Rhineland had come in search of a better life, wooed by Gottfried Duden’s popular account of the fertile land in mid-Missouri. Settlers quickly realized that the extreme temperature shifts and weather conditions, coupled with Hermann’s rocky terrain, would not support much agriculture. “The topography of the surrounding country is very irregular,” according to 1907’s The German Settlement Society of Philadelphia and Its Colony, Hermann, Missouri. “Some of the land is extremely broken. But very little of the land around the site of the proposed town is adapted to extensive agriculture.”

Author William Godfrey Bek notes that there was good farmland, but it was too far away; Bek guesses that the land was chosen because it resembled Bavaria.

Grapes were already growing in Missouri, but the wine being made with wild grapes, to put it mildly, was not good. Cultivated varieties such as Catawba, Norton and Concord gave the founders of Hermann more hope.

“Soon after their establishment, [the Germans] came to the idea of making experiments with the refining of the vine,” wrote Gert Goebel in his 1877 memoir of German life in Missouri, Longer Than a Man’s Lifetime in Missouri. “For everywhere in the wood, and even in the rocky mountains, wild and gravely grapes grew in abundance, and … they could easily recall the vineyards in their old home on the Rhine… And thus the first impulse was given.”

As early as 1844, the town was offering parcels of land for just $50, to be paid, interestfree, over five years; the only condition was that they be used to grow grapes. In the end, 600 “grape lots” were sold, and Hermann’s defining industry was born. Within 10 years, 500 acres of vineyards encompassed the town.

“I think it reminded them of their native Germany: The conditions were ideal, and it really prospered,” says Jim Anderson, executive director of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board.

“You have the right pieces there for everything to go well – the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, growth of the railroads, proximity to St. Louis. All the components were there to set Missouri up to become an exporter of wine to the U.S. and around the world.”

Adam Puchta, too, arrived from Germany – Oberkotzau, in Bavaria – in 1839 when he was just 7 years old. Family lore holds that the Puchtas left for the New World after authorities told them to ditch their wine grapes for other crops as part of a government mandate. Puchta left Missouri on April 15, 1853, to drive a herd of cattle to California – and then stayed for the gold rush after the cattle were sold. He returned a year later with enough money to purchase acreage from his father, where he made his first wine using a combination of wild grapes and grapes from his father’s vineyard in Hermann. He soon “settled in the woods, cleared a fine tract of land of 100 acres, and [was] successfully engaged in farming and winegrowing,” according to 1888’s History of Gasconade County. He also took on the duties of school director and “roadmaster,” among others.

PICTURED FROM TOP:

Michael Poeschel in the late 1800s; bird’s-eye view illustration of the city of Hermann, Missouri, circa 1869; wine vault; partial view of Hermann seen from the south, circa 1906; Stone Hill Wine Co. vineyards circa the 1850s

portrait of poeschel and photo of stone hill wine co. courtesy stone hill winery; images of hermann missouri courtesy the library of congress

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Poeschel, though he had no prior winemaking experience in Germany, started what is now known as Stone Hill Winery under his own name in 1847; his first offering at market was just 1,000 gallons of wine from the Isabella grape. Hermann held its first Weinfest the next year, complete with cannon fire in honor of Bacchus. “An entire cavalcade made its way to the vineyard of Mr. Michael Poeschel, and as a matter of fact, I didn’t regret having traveled the long distance of 20 miles when I beheld the splendid grapes there with my own eyes,” wrote Goebel.

STOne HILL ILLuSTRATIOn, PHOTOS OF SeedInG WAReHOuSe, GeORGe HuSMAnn And CASkS COuRTeSy THe LIBRARy OF COnGReSS; ILLuSTRATIOn OF STOne HILL WIne CO. MedALS COuRTeSy STOne HILL WIneRy

“His bearing vineyard covered hardly the area of a single acre, but the rows of posts seemed to consist of nothing but a wall of grapes and among them not a single rotten berry was to be found. The product of the vintage of this small vineyard was a very expensive but good Catawba, which when it is treated right resembles Rhinewine very closely.”

Poeschel soon brought on another German-born Missourian, John Scherer, to help expand the business; they adopted the name M. Poeschel & Scherer in 1861.

Their friend George Husmann, who had arrived in Hermann around the same time, had planted his first grapes on his father’s farm in 1847. A German biologist who went on to become one of the fathers of the Missouri grape industry, as well as California wine country, Husmann owned several vineyards and orchards in Missouri. The land where he planted his first vines is now OakGlenn Winery, which still tends five rows of his original grapevines.

As the Civil War intensified, dividing the country, winemaking continued; Hermann exhibited 35 grape varieties at the Gasconade County Fair in 1862.

Confederate forces raided Hermann in 1864, and proceeded to consume all of the wine in Husmann’s cellar. Husmann was well-educated but a self-taught viticulturist; just two years after his pride and joy was pillaged by Confederate soldiers, he published the seminal The Cultivation of the Native Grape, and Manufacture of American Wines. His philosophy – one that still guides American winemaking today – was that the winemaker, through science, can have a precise effect on the wine produced with his grapes.

PICTURED FROM TOP:

Illustration of Stone Hill Wine Co., circa 1888; Stone Hill grape-seeding warehouse; George Husmann, 1869; casks at Stone Hill; Stone Hill Wine Co.’s international wine award medals

M. Poeschel & Scherer was well on its way to becoming the third-largest winery in the world when it won its first World’s Fair Gold Medal in 1873 in Vienna. Poeschel and Scherer sold the winery to two of their longtime managers, William Herzog and George Starck, in 1878.

By 1883, Herzog and Starck were the sole owners of the winery, which they renamed Stone Hill Wine Co. The two younger Germans proceeded to build upon the winery’s early success over the next 15 years and grew Stone Hill to 35 acres of vineyards, which produced, along with grapes bought from surrounding counties, 200,000 gallons of wine a year. The cellars were expanded several times, and were famous for 12 gargantuan casks, known as the “apostles,” which held 1,500 to 2,000 gallons each.

“Their wines are, undoubtedly, the purest made in the world,” gushes History of Gasconade County, “as the numerous gold and silver medals conferred upon them, as wine manufacturers, by various national and international expositions, testify.”

Starck and his wife, Laura, built one of the most expensive private residences in Gasconade County in the 1880s; the kitchen was described as “a model of convenience” and the home included steam heating and gas lighting. Herzog, who began his career at Stone Hill as a traveling salesman – as did Starck – became Inspired Local Food Culture

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“one of Hermann’s substantial citizens.” Scherer, “justly conceded to be one of the most influential citizens of Hermann,” was president of his old friend’s Gast Wine Co. as well as the Hermann Savings Bank. Poeschel and his wife, even after he retired, were named “well known and worthy citizens of the county.”

PHOTOS OF STONE HILL WINEMAkERS, BEST SELLERS AD, MuSHROOM CAVE AND FRAMED AD COuRTEST STONE HILL; PHOTOS OF ADAM PuCHTA WINERy COuRTESy ADAM PuCHTA WINERy

They were hardly the only winemakers in Hermann, but the four men, their colleagues and descendants were among the most respected pillars of the community at the turn of the century. But when the Volstead Act went into effect, everything changed. Starck died in 1917, so it was his sons, Ottmar and Louis, who ordered Stone Hill’s grapevines be ripped up from the roots on the eve of Prohibition in 1920. Stone Hill did spirit away the 12 “apostle” casks to Germany for safekeeping, but they were never seen again. Stone Hill’s cool, dark cellars were converted to mushroom caves during Prohibition; they didn’t see another cask of Missouri wine for 45 years.

In the 1960s, Stone Hill’s cellars were still growing mushrooms. Owner Bill Harrison was planning an exit from the mushroom business and wanted to see Stone Hill restored to its former industry. Farmers Jim and Betty Held owned a small vineyard in the area and made wine at home, and Harrison invited them to “try out” the wine business in 1965. Thirteen years later, they brought on winemaker Dave Johnson, who still spearheads winemaking at Stone Hill today.

“The first wine that got some notoriety was our ’79 Reserve Norton,” Johnson says. “We used no water or sugar, gave the Norton grapes a long fermentation on the skins and employed a secondary, or malolactic, fermentation. Then we aged the wine in high-quality oak wine barrels. The results were exceptional, and the next year, we made all of our Norton like that. We began getting a lot of good press; it certainly awakened people to the idea that good, quality, dry red wine could be made from Norton, and could be made in Missouri.”

Adam Puchta’s son and grandson – Henry and Everett Puchta – were forced to pull up their vines by the roots, too. Government agents hacked all but one of their 15 oak fermentation casks to pieces. At Adam Puchta Winery’s height, it sold 10,000 gallons of wine cultivated on 1,000 acres; still, the grape-press room was converted into a barn, and the remaining 86 acres of land – the family had to sell off land to get by over the years – became a more traditional farm. Even after Prohibition was repealed in 1933, the Puchtas simply made Norton wine for the family. Many farmers during that time were similarly reluctant to replant grapevines for commercial production – what if Prohibition was reinstated?

Everett’s grandson, Tim Puchta, grew up helping out at nearby Stone Hill and went to school with the Held children, but Everett never wanted to reopen the winery.

“Adam passed away in 1904, so he never saw Prohibition; Henry passed away in 1928, so he didn’t live to see Prohibition repealed,” Tim says. “My grandfather lived through Prohibition and the Depression. Financially, they were decimated, [so] he had no desire to get it back up again.” Everett Puchta died in 1988, and two years later, Tim and his father, Randolph, planted three acres of Norton grapes, renovated the facilities for a production capacity of 1,000 gallons and reopened Adam Puchta Winery to the public for the first time in 70 years. “[If Everett were still around], I would have gotten a lot of, ‘Oh, you guys are crazy!’ remarks,” Tim says with a laugh.

“Grandpa was a hardworking man, but he was an old, pessimistic German sometimes. My grandmother would have been absolutely pleased as punch to see it going.

I think after he saw what happened he would’ve been delighted, because he liked his wine.”

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PICTURED FROM TOP:

Stone Hill Wine Co. staff, 1890; Stone Hill Winery best sellers ad; mushroom cave after Prohibition; exterior of Adam Puchta Winery; Tim (left) and Randolph Puchta reviving Adam Puchta Winery in 1990

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PORTRAIT OF FRIEDRICH MUEnCH FROM ”THE HISTORy OF WInE In AMERICA” By THOMAS PInnEy; PHOTOS OF MOUnT PLEASAnT WInERy COURTESy THE LIBRARy OF COnGRESS

Gottfried Duden’s somewhat fictionalized account of his three years in mid-Missouri lured German settlers to Augusta, Missouri, too. “Grapes from the Rhine would do very well on the Missouri [River],” he promised. The first few to arrive were dubbed “Latin peasants” due to their “greater command of the classics than farming,” according to a 1990 Historic Preservation survey of Augusta. Among the Latin peasants were brothers Friedrich and George Muench, who arrived from Giessen, Germany, in 1834. George bought a seven-acre piece of land on the edge of Augusta in 1859, built a fachwerk timber-frame house – which still stands – and he and Friedrich planted the first grapes that would become Mount Pleasant Winery. Grapes were cultivated in Augusta as early as 1847, though, as its citizens saw the early success of Hermann’s vineyards.

There were 14 winemakers in Augusta by 1868, as well as a winemaking co-op, the Augusta Wine Co., which featured a communal wine cellar and hall. George Muench reported 400 gallons of wine production at Mount Pleasant in 1860 – although well behind Stone Hill, he was by far the biggest vintner in Augusta.

George was a gunsmith by trade, but he took an interest in winemaking through his brother, Friedrich, who had been growing grapes since at least 1846. Friedrich published School for American Grape Culture, a treatise in German that laid out instructions for establishing vineyards in Missouri, in 1859. “The vine-dresser, free, lord of his own possessions, in daily intercourse with peaceful nature, is a happier and more contented man than thousands of those who, in our large cities, driven about by the thronging crowd, rarely attain true peace and serenity of mind,” Friedrich wrote. “With the growth of the grape every nation elevates itself to a higher grade of civilization – brutality must vanish, and human nature progresses.”

Both brothers were ordained Lutheran ministers in Germany, as well as Enlightenment scholars and ardent abolitionists. Friedrich, who became known as “Old Father Muench,” continued to cultivate grapes and make wine literally until the day he died. On December 14, 1881, 84-year-old Old Father Muench “was found dead among his beloved vines, one fine winter’s morning of that year, with the pruning shears still in his hand.”

Mount Pleasant tripled production over the next decade; George Muench Jr. sent much of the winery’s 7,000-gallon yield to Chicago in 1893, where it won a gold medal at the World’s Fair. Mount Pleasant continued to grow until 1920, when Prohibition forced it to close. Equipment was destroyed, and the vineyards were set on fire.

Lucian and Eva Dressel purchased the historic property in 1966, making 26-year-old Lucian the youngest person in the country with a license to operate a winery. They replanted the vineyards with native and European-grafted varieties, and Dressel was later instrumental in making Augusta the first legally recognized viticultural area in the country. Today, Mount Pleasant is operated by the Dressels’ nephew, Chuck, and grows 12 varietals on 78 acres.

Winemakers in the Ozark Highlands grow grapes much differently than their counterparts in mid-Missouri, thanks to their Italian roots and the area’s unique climate. Unlike the bluffs along the Missouri River, St. James, Missouri, and its surrounding areas feature a combination of stream bottoms, prairie and cedar forests, with a relatively dry climate.

In 1895, an Arkansas cotton plantation owner, Austin Corbin, came up with a scheme to import hardworking sharecroppers from northern Italy to make a profit; after making a deal with the mayor of Rome, he sold dozens of poor northern Italians pieces of his land at heavily inflated prices, complete with a built-in economy (a bank, stores, food markets) that would ensure they stayed in debt to him. Within a year of their arrival, the remaining Italians – many had died of malaria, while others returned home – set out in search of better opportunities.

Eighteen-year-old Louis Zulpo, who had come to Arkansas with his family from Venice, and 31-year-old Antonio Piazza, also from Venice, scoped out Knobview, Missouri (today called Rosati); they hoped to find a place more like northern Italy. Zulpo and Piazza negotiated, with the help of St. Louis archbishop John Glennon, to buy 120 acres of land from the Frisco Railroad, and soon 30 families came to start a new life.

By the turn of the century, the Italian community extended to St. James, just a few miles west. They attempted to plant vine cuttings from their native Italy, but everything died. Concord grapes from their French-speaking neighbors in Dillon, Missouri, proved hardier; Zulpo planted the first vineyard. He, Piazza (who became the city’s longtime postmaster) and others were able to keep their vineyards going through Prohibition by producing grape juice as well as table grapes and other fruits. Thanks to this work-around, Meramec Vineyards in St. James still boasts a five-acre block of Concord grapes that were planted in 1921.

“A cooperative winery soon failed,” according to the State Historical Society of Missouri, “but the Welch Grape Co. began purchasing entire harvests in the 1930s for jellies and jams. Thereupon grapes became the basis of a thriving local industry.”

PICTURED fRom ToP:

Friedrich Muench, 1879; Mount Pleasant Winery cellar and exterior, circa 1860

When the U.S. entered World War II, Welch’s scored the government contract to provide jam and jelly for the troops in Europe. The company needed quality Concord grapes, and knew just where to get them: St. James, where there were more than 1,000 acres of grapes in 1930, when most vineyards in the state had been destroyed. Many grape-growers signed exclusive agreements with Welch’s in 1947 with provisions that allowed them to sell at roadside stands and to other buyers.

Commercial winemaking didn’t return to St. James until the 1960s. With a degree in industrial fermentation from the University of Oklahoma, Jim Hofherr worked for Falstaff Brewing Corporation in the early 1960s. At the time, Carl and John Bardenheier, owners of St. Louis’ Bardenheier Winery, which bottled and distributed California wines that arrived by railroad, decided to “make a shift and include regional wines in their product mix,” says Hofherr’s son, Peter, now chief executive officer of St. James Winery.

“Because of Dad’s fermentation experience, they recruited him to set up the winery, buy Missouri grapes, and make and bottle the wine,” Peter says. “Before starting, Dad went out to the University of California-Davis to retool his skills for wine fermentation.”

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Jim Hofherr met Jim Held of Stone Hill during this period. “Jim and his brother, Don, owned a 10-acre Catawba vineyard on their diversified farm,” Peter says.

“When the Helds purchased Stone Hill, our family would go out to Hermann, where Dad and Mr. Held discussed winemaking, and our families helped with whatever chore was the current project.”

Following Held’s example, Jim Hofherr and his wife, Pam, opened St. James Winery in 1970 with an initial capacity of 8,000 gallons. “When I was a kid, Jim Held and my father spent a lot of time in Jefferson City, removing some of the legal roadblocks that were put there after Prohibition,” Peter says of a provision limiting the production size of wineries. “They got [then-Missouri] Governor Teasdale to put together a [winery] advisory committee for the Director of Agriculture. That was the start of the industry working together to put money into research and promotion of the industry.”

In 1868, something was ravaging the vineyards of France. It was first officially noticed in 1866 in a village in the south of France. Winemakers couldn’t figure out what was happening, but noted that its symptoms reminded them of tuberculosis.

It wasn’t a disease, but rather a bug: phylloxera, a tiny aphid. European Vitis vinifera vines first proved especially susceptible to the louse when French colonists in Florida tried and failed to cultivate them in the 1500s. Over the next few centuries, native American vines were imported to France, and phylloxera is thought to have jumped the Atlantic, unnoticed, in the 1850s. Over the next 15 years, the aphids destroyed nearly 40 percent of the vines in France. On July 15, 1868, a three-man commission set out to determine the cause of the blight.

Now, St. James produces more than 500,000 gallons of wine per year, and its Vignoles has taken the state’s most prestigious wine award – the Governor’s Cup – at the Missouri Wine Competition for the past two years.

“Suddenly under the magnifying lens of the instrument appeared an insect, a plant louse of yellowish color, tight on the wood, sucking the sap,” wrote botanist Jules Émile Planchon. “One looked more attentively; it is not one, it is not ten, but hundreds, thousands of the lice that one perceived, all in various stages of development. They are everywhere.”

Today, roughly 130 Missouri wineries cultivate native, European and hybrid grapes to produce more than 1.25 million gallons of wine annually – resulting in a $1.76 billion impact on the state’s economy.

Missouri’s wineries win national and international awards. Still, as Tim Puchta laments, Prohibition changed everything for local winemakers.

“You sit back, and you look at when this area was so huge in the wine business from an economy standpoint,” he says, “If Prohibition had not happened and not devastated this area, what would it be like now? Based upon how successful we were even as a small winery in the 1800s, you just look at that and you’re like, wow – what could’ve been.”

As for the future, while companies across the country complain that they can’t attract the interest of millennials (those born between 1982 and 2000) the wine industry has an advantage; millennials are drinking more wine than any other generation. Millennials swigged 42 percent of all wine consumed in 2015, according to a study from the nonprofit Wine Market Council.

“Millennials appear to be very interested in learning about wines and discovering local products,” says Jim Anderson of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board. “You’re going to see a lot of winemakers doing different things like introducing new wine blends, eau de vies, brandies, even craft beer, continuing to be an agritourism destination.

We’ve got close to a million people visiting Missouri wineries every year.”

PHoToS CourTESY ST. JAMES WINErY

The key, winemakers say, is simply getting Missouri wines in front of people.

“We have some pretty distinct regions [in Missouri] – I think that’s critical,” says Peter Hofherr at St. James. “The better the varietals are known, and we continue to work on quality in the vineyard and the cellar, we’ll see a continued expansion of the industry.

People are more interested in buying local and experiencing what their state has to offer, and I think that’s the trend that’s driving our development.”

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PICTURED FROM TOP:

Jim and Pam Hofherr renovating what is now St. James Winery; Jim and his daughter Leslie planting grapevines; processing grapes; Jim and Pam circa 1972.

Phylloxera causes grapevines to rot from the inside within three years, but at first, Planchon and his colleagues believed the tiny yellow bugs on the roots were simply a symptom.

Desperate for help, their inaccurate findings were published immediately. “The phylloxera, a true gourmet, finds out the best vineyards and attaches itself to the best wines,” joked a British cartoon in 1890, depicting a well-dressed aphid gorging himself on French wine.

Back in Missouri, Charles Valentine Riley, Missouri’s state entomologist, immediately recognized Planchon’s description.

Riley wrote to him in 1870, but was dismissed. In Missouri, he had observed phylloxera on the leaves of vines, not the roots.

After much discussion, though, Riley prevailed. He visited Planchon in 1871 to take a look at the phylloxera there himself; it was indeed the same bug. Riley, a student of Darwin, was confident that American vines were resistant to the louse because the two species had evolved together. He was right.

By the winter of 1872, George Husmann of Hermann, along with St. Louis firm Bush and Sons and Meissner, sent nearly 400,000 vine cuttings to Montpellier, France. Despite some French resistance to using American rootstock, the project took off, and the so-called la défense began. Riley hosted Planchon in Hermann and St. Louis in 1873, and taught him how to grow phylloxera-resistant rootstock.

Husmann had done work on phylloxera with Riley, and later worked to save Vitis vinifera in California. “I put an exactly fitting graft of two eyes on the cuttings, having them first shortened for the uppermost knot, and winding around it, all along the graft-cut, a suitable twine,” he wrote in American Grape Growing and Wine Making. “In this wise one can finish about 175 grafts in a day, sitting snugly at home... I have not heard any complaints from France.”

Today, with few exceptions, all vines are planted with grafted rootstock in order to resist phylloxera, thanks to Missouri.

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ExplorE History, natural bEauty and our tHriving winE country along missouri's 240-milE statE park, tHE katy trail.

WRITTEN by ROSE HANSEN

| ILLuSTRATED by TOM bINGHAM

xploring Missouri wine country is a cinch on the Katy Trail, a 240-mile state park that reaches across most of the state. It’s built on the former corridor of the Missouri-KansasTexas (MKT) Railroad – hence the name. Thanks to Missouri’s German immigrant communities, this section was also once the second-largest wine producing region in America. Prohibition temporarily severed the industry, but revival efforts in the 1960s eventually restored winemaking in towns across Missouri. The leg between Rocheport and Defiance might be the most scenic stretch of wine country in the state, and there’s no better way to see it than by biking the Katy.

It’s a route rich with viticultural history, limestone bluffs and tranquil river views. (Heads-up, history buffs: The trail often follows the footsteps of Meriwether Lewis and William Clark in the early 1800s.) The Katy’s flat, hard surface makes for easy cycling, and it’s open year-round, dawn to dusk.

With 18 wineries and vineyards located five miles or less from the trail, this is a perfect weekend outing for both sweet- and dry-wine enthusiasts.

Need we say more? Hop on the trail, follow our guide and sip away.

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Native A merican Petroglyphs

AbigAil’s in rocheport must try: Sweet lemon-pecan-walnut linguine HigHligHts: Eat fresh and local at Abigail’s, where the menu changes

based on seasonal produce and the cuts of meat available.

Menu items range from Thai watermelon soup to lamb chops with spiced plum sauce to spinach-artichoke ravioli. Diners can always expect beef, pork, seafood and pasta entrées, plus rotating offerings of lamb, duck or veal. For dessert, try a slice of the chocolate-cinnamon-chile cake. Or gooey butter.

Or chocolate-raspberry pie. Planning on biking the whole Katy?

Well, that justifies a slice of everything.

nAtive AmericAn petroglyphs rundown: Much of the Katy Trail overlaps with the same route Meriwether Lewis and William Clark traveled on their westward expedition. On June 5, 1804, Clark made an entry in his Corps of Discovery journal describing a “figue” on the rocks above the Missouri River. Four miles outside of Rocheport, those same rock carvings await visitors today just off mile marker 174.4. With a bit of patience, you should be able to spot them from across the river. They hover near a cave and above a rock ledge frequented by birds.

les bourgeois VineyarDs in roCHePort history: Curtis Bourgeois started making wine in his home in 1982 before opening it as the winery’s A-frame tasting room in 1985.

Must-try Wines: 2014 Merlot, 2015 Brut Rosé and 2015 Vignoles

highlights: After a tour and tasting, dine at the on-site Blufftop Bistro, which dishes up gourmet meals with seasonal vegetables from the vineyard’s greenhouse. Les Bourgeois also offers cocktails and beer thanks to a partnership with Rocheport Distilling Co. and Broadway Brewery. Finish your visit with a drink on the original A-frame’s terrace and enjoy views of the Missouri River below. Sample the latest of the Collector’s Series wines during the July 15 Release Party and Art Show, or kick off the harvest season at the annual fall Crush Festival October 7 to 8.

Canterbury Hill Winery & restaurant in Holts summit history: D.J. Drury reopened the former Summit Lake Winery as the Canterbury Hill Winery in 2013. Now it’s a medieval-themed locale that promises guests the royal treatment.

Must-try Wines: Blue Mist sweet white and King’s Choice semisweet highlights: The winery plays up its medieval

theme with castle-inspired décor and wines with names such as Excalibur and Medieval Mist. Canterbury’s famous Red Dragon and Blue Dragon wine slushies grant cool relief on hot summer days.

The tasting room and dining room share the same space, so ordering food is a breeze. Options range from snacks, sandwiches and burgers to steaks and seafood, including pork belly nachos and king crab legs. An outdoor patio offers sprawling views of the state Capitol and Missouri River.

Central Dairy in jefferson City Must try: Black walnut ice cream highlights: For a taste of life from simpler days, stop by one of Missouri’s oldest ice cream parlors. Central Dairy has used the same ingredients and formulas since 1920. You’ll feel like a kid again at this nostalgic creamery, which serves up huge scoops for just $2. Although Central Dairy is best known for ice cream, the shop also sells sherbet, frozen yogurt, cottage cheese, sour cream and milk.

missouri state Penitentiary rundoWn: Ready for a serious dose of state history? Tour the historic Missouri State Penitentiary in Jefferson City, which opened in 1836 and closed down in 2004. Tours explore the dungeons, housing areas and gas chambers, plus you’ll learn about the prison’s most famous inmates and executions. For the best shot at seeing a ghost, sign up for an overnight investigation. Most of the guides are former employees of the prison, and, if you’re lucky, you might even book a warden.

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endless summer winery in hermann history: Gary Hoover has been both a dairy farmer and a professional chef, and for years he also made wine as a hobby. In 2011, he turned that passion into his profession by opening Endless Summer Winery.

Must-try Wines: Pecan wine and semisweet pineapple wine highlights: This cozy hidden gem aims to push your palate into the world of unconventional wines. Here, you’ll find wines made from raspberries, strawberries, cherries and more. During a free tasting, ask the Hoovers for recipe advice about how to cook with their fruit wines.

stone hill winery in hermann history: Originally founded in 1847, Stone Hill was revived by Betty and Jim Held in 1965. Today Stone Hill lays claim to being Missouri’s oldest and most-awarded winery.

Must-try Wines: 2012 Governor’s Reserve Holden Vineyard Norton

and 2014 Vidal Blanc highlights: Grab lunch or dinner at Stone Hill’s

on-site The Vintage Restaurant, where classic German fare is blended with modern American favorites. Be sure to research upcoming events at the winery, as Stone Hill frequently hosts celebrations with live music and food pairings. The winery also hosts signature events throughout the year, including Maifest from May 20 and 21, the Wine Country Shrimp Boil on June 24 and Cajun Concert on July 8.

adam Puchta winery in hermann history: Established in 1855 by Adam Puchta, the winery has the unique claim of being the oldest continuously owned family winery in the nation – it’s been owned by the same family for five generations. Puchta’s great-great-grandson, Tim, continues the tradition today.

Must-try Wines: 2009 Estate Norton, Signature Port and Hunter’s Red, a Norton-Chambourcin-Noiret blend highlights: The tasting room walls are lined with portraits of the

Puchta family’s generations of winemakers. Sip wine under their gaze, or enjoy a picnic outside in the shade. During Hermann’s annual Wurstfest Weekend in March, taste the old country with traditional German fare such as local sausages and spätzle, plus Puchta wine pairings. Need a place to rest your head? Book a stay in Adam Puchta’s original homestead, the Guesthaus.

Black walnut Bistro Must try: Lobster and shrimp fettuccine highlights: Load up carbs for

your ride on the Katy at downtown Hermann’s Black Walnut Bistro. Chef specialties include fresh housemade pastas such as chicken Florentine and gluten-free fusilli, plus steak and seafood pastas. There’s also no mystery for pairing wine with your meal: Every menu item features a recommendation, and many are local favorites from Stone Hill Winery, Adam Puchta Winery and Hermannhof Winery.

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Deutschheim state historic site in hermann rundown: This historic stop in Hermann is dedicated to preserving the heritage of Missouri’s 19th-century German immigrants, many of whom developed the local wine industry in the region. An onsite winery contains one of the last remaining German-carved wine casks in the country, and a century-old grape arbor still thrives in the backyard. The guided tour will lead you through private houses dating back to the 1840s, demonstration gardens that showcase heirloom vegetables, and a gift shop full of unusual delights like springerle cookie molds or imported German pop-up cards.

Deutschheim State Historic Site

hermannhof Winery

oakGlenn Winery

history: This vineyard’s stone cellars and brick buildings are on the National Register of Historic Places. Initially designed primarily as a brewery in 1848, Hermannhof currently produces some 15,000 cases of wine each year.

history: George Husmann, an internationally renowned horticulturist, first planted grapes on this property in the mid-1800s. Five rows of his original vines are still tended today by owners Glenn and Carol Warnebold.

Must-try wines: 2013 Vignoles; 2012

Must-try wines: Sweet Caroline, a sweet

Chambourcin Vin Gris, a dry rosé; and White Lady, a Riesling-style white blend highlights: Step back in time for a tour of

historic Hermannhof Winery. Its stately brick tasting room and 10 carved stone cellars below more than justify the stop. An on-site store offers a variety of cheeses and German sausages.

Snack and sip wine on the outdoor patio above Frene Creek or, if the day is cool, cozy up next to a crackling fire in the winery’s weinstube, or tasting room.

sparkling rosé highlights: A bustling

live music calendar makes OakGlenn one of the liveliest wineries on the Missouri River bluffs. An enormous outdoor seating area boasts great views of the vineyard and the river below. Don’t miss the five-mile Bagel and Beer Cross-Country Race on Aug. 5.

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Lost Creek Vineyard in MarthasViLLe history: Brothers Tom and Steve Frichtel spent nearly a decade

growing grapes for other winemakers at Lost Creek Vineyard before finally opening to the public in 2011.

Must-try Wines: Proprietor’s Choice, a dry Noiret-Norton blend,

and Whistle Stop White, a Chardonel-Seyval Blanc blend highlights: Lost Creek is an apt name for this quaint winery on the outskirts of Warren County. A farmhouse acts as the tasting room, and its wraparound porch offers stunning views of the family’s nearly 12-acre vineyard. Weather permitting, hitch a seat on a wagon ride through the vineyards or, during the summer when the winery is open late, down to the river to view the bluffs and watch the sun sink. In October, ask about the “pumpkin chucking” into the winery pond.

treLoar Bar & GriLL Must try: Frog legs highlights: Need a break from

wine tasting? Hit the historic Treloar Bar & Grill in Marthasville for a cold beer. It’s a bit of a dive, but that’s part of its charm. The burgers are as big as your head, and the vibe is so welcoming that you’re just as likely to mingle with fellow pedal pushers as you are with leather-clad throttle twisters.

BLuMenhof Vineyards and Winery in dutzoW

BaLduCCi Vineyards in auGusta

history: Blumenhof Vineyards was established in 1979 in the historic village of Dutzow, one of Missouri’s oldest German settlements.

history: Balducci Vineyards was established in 1987 by Rick and Carol Balducci, St. Louis natives with deep Italian roots and a long family history in winemaking.

Must-try Wines: 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2016 Valvin Muscat and Katy’s Blush highlights: With a modest tasting room and wine list,

Blumenhof favors quality over quantity. Tastings are free, and visitors are welcome to bring their own food, although Dogtown Pizza pies are available year-round.

On the weekends from May through October, the on-site Brathaus Grill sells sandwiches and sides, including bratwurst and German potato salad.

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Must-try Wines: Fortified Time Signature, a Norton-Chambourcin blend fortified with brandy, 2016 Natalia, a Vidal Blanc-Vignoles blend and 2016 Dry Rosé highlights: Covered outdoor seating, two bocce ball courts and live music every weekend April through October (and often in November) makes Balducci Vineyards a fun stop for large groups. Fans rave about the baked Brie appetizer and pizzas, although patrons are welcome to bring their own cold food, too.

Noboleis ViNeyards history: A working farm found a second life when Robert and Lou Ann Nolan bought the property and planted a vineyard in 2005.

Must-try Wines: 2015 Norton, 2016 Dry Rosé and 2016 Noblevescent, a sparkling made with Vignoles that’s available in early summer highlights: Perched on a hilltop, Noboleis offers a

tranquil refuge. The tasting room is open year-round and offers lunch daily. We like the idea of a warm Bavarian pretzel, but vegetarian and meat pizzas are also on the menu. Enjoy your meal with a glass of wine on the large patio, where you can take in verdant views. Noboleis hosts live music every weekend from May through October.

MouNt PleasaNt WiNery

MoNtelle WiNery

history: Founded in 1859 by German immigrants

history: The winery was founded in 1970 by Clayton Byers, an early revivalist of Missouri’s wine industry after Prohibition. Today it’s owned by Tony Kooyumjian, also of Augusta Winery.

Friedrich and George Muench, Mount Pleasant is the oldest winery in Augusta. It was forced to close during Prohibition; Lucian and Eva Dressel reopened the winery in 1966.

Must-try Wines: Vignoles

Augusta and Norton Augusta highlights: Visitors will find plenty of elbow

room in Mount Pleasant’s 4,000-square-foot tasting room. Choose your vintage, buy cheese and crackers for lunch from the on-site café and take in the views of the lush Missouri River Valley from the terrace.

Must-try Wines: 2016 Seyval Blanc, 2014 Norton

and 2015 Chardonel highlights: Montelle’s priorities include pairing wine with food, and its Klondike Café serves food designed to complement its wines. Enjoy it all on the scenic deck, which is nestled into the forest’s edge and offers views of the Missouri River Valley.

Don’t miss the sunset dinner series on Friday and Saturday evenings, from May through September.

Augusta Winery

Kate’s Coffee House iN augusta Must try: Quiche of the day highlights: Sober up with a coffee at

Kate’s in Augusta after a long day on the trail. Located in a restored 1905 home, Kate’s brims with small-town charm.

Cyclists rave about the coffee shop’s buttery from-scratch pecan mini-muffins.

If it’s hot out, opt for a scoop of hand-dipped ice cream and savor it under an umbrella on the patio. This little hidden gem is perched at the top of a hill, but it’s well worth the climb.

augusta WiNery history: Third-generation grape grower Tony Kooyumjian founded Augusta Winery in 1988. The self-taught winemaker has earned numerous awards and also owns the nearby Montelle Winery.

Must-try Wines: 2014 Norton, 2014 Chambourcin and 2015 Vidal, a dry

white wine highlights: This destination winery offers live music on the weekends,

wine courses, a gift shop and a variety of packaged cheeses, sausages and crackers. After sampling the award-winning wines, take a bottle onto the outdoor terrace, which features a stunning 10-foot-tall grape arbor. It’s the perfect setting for enjoying a snack with a glass of wine. What better place to sit and sip than in the dappled shade of grapevines?

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Sugar Creek Winery in defianCe history: Ken and Becky Miller reopened the former Boone Country Winery as Sugar Creek Winery in 1994.

Their son, Chris Lorch, is head winemaker.

Must-try Wines: 2016 Boone Country White, a semisweet Delaware-Chardonel blend and Michael’s Signature Red, a dry Cynthiana-Chambourcin blend highlights: The Millers converted the farm’s original house into a tasting room for

their wines. A gazebo, covered decks, pavilions and indoor seating with fireplaces promise a down-to-earth vibe. Check out live music at Sugar Creek from 1 to 5pm Saturday and Sunday, from April through early November.

Chandler hill VineyardS in defianCe history: The vineyard is named after Joseph Chandler, a freed slave who planted grapes on the property in the late 1800s and purchased acres there after the turn of the century. Today, the winery and tasting room stand on the site of Chandler’s original cabin.

Must-try Wines: 2014 Savage Norton and 2015 Grey House Vignoles highlights: For wine with a story, Chandler Hill is a must-visit. Every

wine name nods to the property’s history, and displays in the tasting room showcase Joseph Chandler’s shotgun, tools and other belongings. The 5,000-square-foot deck is a great place to relax, but the beautiful grounds beg to be strolled, too. If biking the Katy didn’t get your buns burning, sign up for Yoga at the Vineyard on Sundays. The post-cooldown sipping session is a great motivator.

yelloW farmhouSe Vineyard & Winery history: Dale Rollings decided to make the leap from “basement

winemaker” to professional vintner with the opening of Yellow Farmhouse Vineyard & Winery in Defiance.

He planted vines in 2005 and opened in fall 2007.

Must-try Wines: 2012 Biker Bar Red, a Norton, and

2012 Defiance Station Traminette highlights: Just 75 feet from the Katy’s center line, Yellow Farmhouse is the closest winery to the trail. Friday Night at the Movies events are hosted one Friday a month, from May through October. On weekends, pack a lunch and rock out to live music.

For more privacy, Adirondack chairs nestled into the hillside offer views of the namesake yellow farmhouse and its surrounding vineyards.

little hillS Winery in St. CharleS history: The property was originally purchased with the help of animal skins and pelts in

1805. Although much more refined today, it remains a historical anchor in St. Charles.

Must-try Wines: Vignoles and Norton highlights: The winery is tucked among the quaint shops and cobblestone streets of historic downtown St. Charles. The restaurant serves a little bit of everything – from breakfast omelets to Boursin cheeseburgers to lobster mac ‘n’ cheese boule – with dishes designed to complement the wines. Be sure to hit the gift shop before you leave: Whimsical bottle holders make a cute memento from the trail.

Les Bourgeois Vineyards

14020 W. Hwy. BB, Rocheport (tasting room) missouriwine.com CanterBury HiLL Winery & restaurant

1707 S. Summit Drive, Holts Summit canterburyhill.com endLess summer Winery

11 Grosse Lane, Hermann endlesssummerwinery.com adam PuCHta Winery

1947 Frene Creek Road, Hermann adampuchtawine.com stone HiLL Winery

1110 Stone Hill Hwy., Hermann stonehillwinery.com

aBigaiL’s

HermannHof Winery

206 Central St., Rocheport rocheport-mo.com/abigails.html

330 E. First St., Hermann hermannhof.com

CentraL dairy

oakgLenn Winery

610 Madison St., Jefferson City centraldairy.biz

1104 Oak Glenn Place, Hermann oakglenn.com

BLaCk WaLnut Bistro

Lost Creek Vineyard

222 E. First St., Hermann facebook.com/blackwalnutbistro

21356 Gore Road, Marthasville lostcreekvineyardmo.com

treLoar Bar & griLL

BLumenHof Vineyards and Winery

16698 Texas St., Marthasville treloarbarandgrill.com

13699 S. Hwy. 94, Dutzow blumenhof.com

kate’s Coffee House

BaLduCCi Vineyards

6601 S. Hwy. 94, Augusta balduccivineyards.com

5525 Walnut St., Augusta facebook.com/kates-coffeehouse-664960516905291

noBoLeis Vineyards

100 Hemsath Road, Augusta noboleisvineyards.com augusta Winery

5601 High St., Augusta augustawinery.com mount PLeasant Winery

5634 High St., Augusta mountpleasant.com monteLLe Winery

201 Montelle Drive, Augusta montelle.com

natiVe ameriCan PetrogLyPHs

Missouri River bluffs, mile marker 174.4, Huntsdale missouri state Penitentiary

115 Lafayette St., Jefferson City missouripentours.com deutsCHHeim state HistoriC site

109 W. Second St., Hermann mostateparks.com/park/deutschheimstate-historic-site

sugar Creek Winery

125 Boone Country Lane, Defiance sugarcreekwines.com yeLLoW farmHouse Vineyard & Winery

100 Defiance Road, Defiance yellowfarmhousewines.com CHandLer HiLL Vineyards

596 Defiance Road, Defiance chandlerhillvineyards.com LittLe HiLLs Winery

501 S. Main St., St. Charles littlehillswinery.com

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with James and Lindsay Lowery

In just a year, KC Wineworks has already made quite a splash. Located in Kansas City’s bustling Crossroads Arts District, the winery took home a gold medal at the 2016 Missouri Wine Competition for its 2014 Chambourcin. We asked winemaker James Lowery and his wife, Lindsay, who manages the tasting room, to share a few of their favorite dining and drinking destinations around Kansas City. –Liz Miller

winemaker and tasting room manager,

kc wineworks

“For dinner we’d go somewhere on our bucket list: Most recently we’ve wanted to visit Corvino Supper Club & taSting rooM. We’ve heard really great things about it.”

tom’s toWn distilling co.

hoWard’s

thou mayest coffee roasters

the nelson-atKins museum of art

Kansas city canning co.

What's your favorite drinK, and Where in Kansas city are you ordering it?

Lindsay: We love hanging out at the new beer hall at Boulevard Brewing Co. There’s a great view of the city, and the level of customer service at Boulevard is incredible, especially considering the size of it. You could be a number to them and you’re not; they really do a nice job of enhancing the experience. Brewery Emperial has the first beer garden in the Crossroads, and Torn Label Brewing Co. and Double Shift Brewing Co. have really fun beers. We love Tom’s Town Distilling Co., SoT and Lifted Spirits for cocktails.

James: Happy Gillis Café & Hangout for breakfast. I’d get the biscuits and gravy; it’s some of the best I’ve ever had. It’s such a simple dish that it’s the little things you have to work with: the ratio of sausage to gravy, the spice level, fresh biscuits that are flaky and fluffy. River Market for lunch. Howard’s Grocery, Cafe and Catering in the Crossroads if I want the best chicken sandwich in the city. If I want amazing pizza, I’d go to Pizzabella in the Crossroads.

Lindsay: We’d grab coffee at Thou Mayest Coffee Roasters; we love them. I also love brunch at Ça Va – I always need Champagne in my life. For dinner we’d go somewhere on our bucket list: Most recently we’ve wanted to visit Corvino Supper Club & Tasting Room. We’ve heard really great things about it.

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mission taco joint

if you had one day to dedicate to dining out in toWn, Where Would you go and What Would you order?

Who or What do you believe is a hidden gem in the Kansas city food scene?

Who in the local restaurant scene inspires you?

James: Kansas City Canning Co.’s shrubs and pickled and canned foods have really blown me away lately. Pickled green tomatoes, Sriracha-pickled green beans, stuff like that, which a lot of the local restaurants use. I think that’s really brought a new take on something…

You think of canned green beans, and you think of an 89-cent can at the supermarket, but Kansas City Canning Co. makes them with spices and turns them into something all their own. They’re really kicking them up a notch, as Emeril would say.

Where do you go for a nightcap or late-night eats?

Lindsay: I think everybody in Kansas City knows that the absolute late-night bite is Town Topic Hamburgers. I only moved here about five years ago from the west coast, but I think it’s really ingrained into Kansas City; that place is always busy at night. I’m also really excited for Mission Taco Joint to open in the Crossroads…

We’ve been tracking its progress every day, because it’s around the corner from [our tasting room]. We love late-night burritos.

James: Everyone thinks of Tannin Wine Bar & Kitchen as a wine bar, but the food is pretty incredible.

Rozzelle Court Restaurant at The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art is great; the food is amazing. People think it’s just a café inside the museum, but there’s actually a full-service restaurant. When we had dinner there, the chef, Jonathan Pye, really knocked it out of the park for us. It’s perfect for a date night: dinner followed by a stroll around the museum.

Visit feastmagazine.com to go behind the scenes at KC Wineworks in the local wine episode of Feast TV, which debuted its 2017 season last month. Turn to page 17 for air dates near you.

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