Page 1

ladies of the lou

florissant’s de.lish

all about oysters



aw, shucks!

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis


Tastes SO Good They’ll Think It’s Homemade! * .# ;?# "!#?> >%!2%/#)"!## -><-8#/ %/4' 1 /#9#! "!%&#/( +3!</3=#, </ %;! -;?=%2 23!</3,#(

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Golden Fried Chicken Fingers

Bigger, Hand Breaded For Juicy & Delicious Flavor! ®

©2012 Schnucks

Don't settle for a single dish when you can have a full course value.

N 3%@74)7 .@5 M@O); >-@54)54 H+D #M 4%) F@4#:MJ by PC Magazine N HM4)7M)4 58));5 4%@4 @7) &7)@4 (:7 5279M&C )BO@#PC ;:.MP:@;#M& O25#<C 28P:@;#M& 8%:4:5C @M; 547)@O#M& 0#;):5A

N /M!:K :27 ?)54 ()@427) $ EM 1)O@M; – featuring thousands of movies and shows that start whenever you want. Most of these titles are free. N G:#M :0)7 =A' O#PP#:M <254:O)75 who have switched to Charter Phone®

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3@PP =B"""BL/* 3I6,*/, :7 0#5#4 <%@74)7A<:O (:7 ;)4@#P5A ©2012 Charter Communications. Offers expire 3/31/12. New qualifying residential customers only; who have not subscribed to TV, Internet and/or Phone within the previous 30 days & have no outstanding obligation to Charter. Standard rates apply after promotional period. Taxes, fees, surcharges, equipment, installation. Services are subject to all applicable service terms & conditions, which are subject to change. Services not available in all areas. Restrictions apply. Call for details. / *$200 CREDIT: To receive $200 bill credit: 1. Must subscribe to TV in Digital, Internet Express & Phone Unlimited (or higher) by 3/31/12. 2. Services must be installed by 4/30/12 & maintained for 31 days before redeeming credit. 3. Must sign up for My Account on 4. Redeem online at by 6/15/12. 5. $200 Credit will be included on next available bill statement. On Demand programming varies by level of service; pricing, ratings & scheduling are subject to change. Internet speeds may vary. PC Magazine, September 2011. A trademark of Ziff Davis, Inc. Used under license. Reprinted with permission. © 2011 Ziff Davis, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012


A Magical Encounter between Human and Horse

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Opens March 21, under the White Big Top next to Busch Stadium 1.866.999.8111 ! c a v a l i a . n e t









BommaritoNISSAN The NISSAN Store






NISSAN Dealer!

14 Consecutive Years††

Convenient Saturday Service

*39 month lease, 12000 miles per year, $1,250 cap reduction. Only your state tax & license additional. Total cost of lease $8,150 with approved credit. Sale prices include all rebates and incentives, with approved credit. Prior sales excluded. Special financing in lieu of rebates. With approved credit. ††Source, bureau of Missouri Automotive registration. Nissan North American, '98, '99, '00, '01, '02, '03, '04, '05, '06, '07, '08, '09, '10, '11 Calendar Year to Date results for Missouri. All sales end Feb. 29, 2012. See dealer for details.

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

MARCH 2012

from the staff

| 10 |

What’s online this month.

| 12 |

from the PUBLISHER

Savor late-winter’s richness.


Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis. COLUMNS

| 26 |

my stuff

Kevin Lemp lends a hand (or four) to the local brewing scene.

| 29 |

gadget a-go-go

We put five spatulas to the test.


New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 32 |

mystery shopper

Buy it and try it: harissa.


Master the challenge of the French omelet.

| 36 |

how to

The proper way to shuck and eat an oyster.

| 38 | EASY EATS

Pack in the last of the rich, late-winter meals with roasted garlic and Roquefort stuffed flank steak.

| 74 |

meet & greet

Bill Barker of Devil’s Breath Chile Co. brings the heat.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY of the blb at de.lish (P. 14) BY Jonathan Gayman Table of contents photography BY

Jennifer Silverberg


mixing things up 6

MARCH 2012




of india



ame changer Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012


Magazine Volume 3

| Issue 3 | March 2012

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor Brandi Wills Online Editor Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Triefenbach Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editors/Proofreaders Jill Pfeiffer, Andrea Mongler Contributing Writers Nate Bonner, Brandon Chuang, Russ Carr, Pat Eby Chad Michael George, Jennifer Johnson, Angela Ortmann Lucy Schnuck, Matt Seiter, Michael Sweeney Cassy Vires Contributing Photographers Jonathan Gayman, Gregg Goldman, Tuan Lee, Laura Ann Miller Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg, Corey Woodruff Contributing Videographer Hannah Radcliff Contributing Illustrator Derek Bauman

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 Advertising Inquiries Kelly Klein, 314.340.8562 Editorial Comments

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright Š 2010-2012 by Feast Magazineâ&#x201E;˘. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC A Lee Enterprises Company


MARCH 2012

Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012



Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

The Feed

Online Exclusives

This Month’s Feast

Watch & Listen

Feast Events


OUT TO LUNCH: Searching for somewhere to host your next business meeting or just escape the daily grind? Every Monday, columnist Andrew Mark Veety brings you great places to take clients or grab a bite with co-workers (like The Tavern, pictured). PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAURA ANN MILLER


ALL IN THE FAMILY: This month, we explore the “family meal” tradition at several fine-dining restaurants, including Monarch, where chef Josh Galliano (pictured) helps his team prepare their go-to dish: red-braised pork. PHOTOGRAPHY BY J. POLLACK PHOTOGRAPHY

COOKING VIDEO: Tech School chef Cassy Vires shows you how to bring your best to the breakfast table with a demo on the classic French omelet. Get the recipe on p. 34.

CONNECT WITH US Connect with us at to stay on top of happenings at FEAST Central and connect with fellow foodies. Scan this tag to LIKE us!


TASTE THE ISSUE: Follow us on Facebook ( feaststl) and Twitter (@feastmag) throughout March as we explore the flavors from Curries of India, p. 53, in dishes like Rasoi’s Lamb Rogan Josh (pictured). We want to know your faves, too, so be sure to weigh in. PHOTOGRAPHY BY J. POLLACK PHOTOGRAPHY


MARCH 2012

Follow us at for up-to-the-minute restaurant news, special deals, FEAST events and more. Scan this tag to FOLLOW us! Get the free app at

Join us kend, 's Wee rday t a P . t S Satu & y a d i Fr thern u o S r o f orned C d e k Smo thered o m S Beef & bbage. Ca ould ish w "The sIro proud." be

LIVE TUE MUSIC BLU SDAY & O ES J A P 7:30 EN MI M Frid C. a 7 & S -11 y at. 9 -1

HAPPY ST. PATTY'S DAY! Get our complete schedule


34 Old Orchard South, Webster Groves, MO

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1 Joe the butcher says...

Corned Beef was considered, "Food for a King"


4324 Weber Rd. St. Louis, MO. 314-631-2440

Why Corned Beef? The term “corned“ comes from covering the beef with large rock-salt kernels referred to as “corns of salt.“ Then, the beef is put it in a large crock for cooking. The reason for doing this is because salt acts as a preservative for the beef. In early Ireland, corned beef was considered “food for a king,” given the expense of cattle and salt. Since the invention of the refrigerator and other fine modern technological advances, we don’t need to preserve our meat in this way. However, we still produce corned beef in the same fashion and consume it as we celebrate St. Patrick’s Day.

How to choose the perfect Corned Beef

Kenrick's Own Uncooked Corned Beef Prices Top Round Corned Beef ............. $4.49/lb. Corned Beef Trimmed Brisket ....... $5.99/lb.

At Kenrick's, we brine our corned beef with special pickling seasonings for maximum corned beef satisfaction. Typically brisket and rounds are used when making corned beef. Briskets are full of flavor but can be a little trickier to cook. Briskets should be cooked slowly for best results, overcooking will lead to a tougher piece of meat. Top Round, my preference, offers a tender piece of meat that is less expensive and has more yield. At Kenrick’s, we can help you choose what works best for you. We can also give you the best instructions for cooking, so that you are satisfied with the outcome of your St. Patrick’s Day Feast.

"Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day with Kenrick's" Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012






Feast Your Eyes Sat., March 3, 12:30pm Complimentary, Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis

t may have felt like spring for just about the entirety of winter, but it’s not here, not quite yet.

This free program invites you into the museum for a tasting prepared in response to the exhibitions and paired with local wine and cocktails.

Chandler Hill Guest Chef Dinner with Patrick Connolly

Soon, tiny asparagus spears will shoot upward, tender lettuces will unfurl, strawberries will swell and pea tendrils will climb. These last few days of winter offer just a bit more time to savor hearty dishes that will soon be replaced by fresh-from-the-garden fare. With that in mind, we bring you our March issue.

Sat., March 10, 6:30pm; Chandler Hill Vineyards

March is a month of transition and as we shift seasons, I find myself craving warm, spicy, rich food. Lamb is at its best this time of year and we reached out to chef Nate Bonner to develop dishes so good they’d convert folks who think they don’t like lamb (p. 42). Mexico, Morocco, France … he offers up global flavors highlighting this delicate protein.

Wine Tasting

This issue also brings you a primer on Indian curries (p. 53) and Demun Oyster Bar’s Chad George pries open the subject of oysters, explaining the differences between each briny bivalve and offering beer and bubbly pairs to enhance their flavor (p. 59).

$89 per person, $30 wine-pairing option; 636.798.2675

Chandler Hill is serving up a rare treat this March: a dinner by James Beard Award-winning chef Patrick Connolly.

Thu., March 15, 6 to 7pm; Milagro Modern Mexican Complimentary,

Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a food and wine tasting at Milagro.

L’Ecole Academy Thai Cuisine Class March 21 and 22, noon to 3pm $140, or 314.264.1999

Learn the secrets behind savory Thai cuisine in this two-day class.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., March 28, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School

And if the blustery days ahead have you searching for a bartender who can deliver a truly well-crafted cocktail, turn to p. 64. Mixing Things Up introduces our region’s best female barkeeps – they share their insight and their best recipes. Jonathan Gayman shot the story and I’m sure you’ll agree that the playful, creative approach he took is a breath of fresh air, just like the season to come. Until next time,

$45, or 314.909.1704

Get hands-on and make the hearty feast featured on p. 38.

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Thu., March 29, 6pm; Demun Oyster Bar RSVP to

Join us to discuss Shucked by Erin Byers Murray and enjoy complimentary hors d’oeuvres (including oysters!) and drink specials. Purchase your copy of the book from Left Bank Books and receive 20 percent off.

Maplewood Coffee Crawl Sat., April 28, 9am to noon RSVP to

Enjoy a morning of coffee demonstrations, goodies and a chance to meet some of the region’s best roasters.

Catherine Neville

Oceania Luxury Culinary Cruise Aug. 3 to 13, from $3,799 per person or 314.968.9600

Join publisher Catherine Neville on a 10-day luxury cruise from Istanbul to Venice with ports of call ranging from Ephesus to Athens.

Cat’s Picks

feedback? 12

MARCH 2012


Tune in as FEAST publisher Catherine Neville chats with host McGraw Milhaven and gives her weekly picks for the best places to eat and drink in the St. Louis area.

Tuan Lee

Wednesdays, 8:35am; The BIG 550 KTRS

Fun Food, Happy People, Great Drinks! FEAST FAVE • Kale Salad: finely chopped kale with chile flakes and garlic, lemon vinaigrette and Parmesan chips Photography by Corey Woodruff for FEAST Magazine First Come First Serve (No reservations) Open Mon - Fri starting at 11 am and Sat starting at 10 am

106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville. IL • 618.307.4830

Celebrate Easter at Crown Candy Kitchen An Easter Tradition - We've Been Doing It For Almost 100 Years! • • • •

Over 50 styles of SOLID chocolate Easter Bunnies all hand poured here. Home of the traditional Easter Monkey (Comes boxed with his story). Marshmallow, peanut butter and assorted cream eggs. Crown Candy Heavenly Hash Baskets that are hand made with individual marshmallows covered in rich chocolate and pecans.

CLOSED EASTER SUNDAY • WE SHIP ANYWHERE IN THE USA (1 mile north of the Arch; 4 blocks west of I-70) Open: 10:30 - 8 Mon - Thurs, 10:30 - 10 Fri & Sat, 1 - 5 on Sunday

1401 St. Louis Avenue • Old North St. Louis • 314.621.9650 •

Hosgeldiniz! (Welcome!) Our outstanding Turkish cuisine is distinctive, fresh, and healthy. We have many vegetarian dishes as well as lamb, beef, chicken and seafood. Aya Sofia offers a large variety of cold and hot meze (small plates) that are intended to be shared and will complement any of our entrees. Afiyet Olsun (Enjoy your meal!) Aya Sofia has a romantic, luxurious atmosphere combined with excellent upscale service and warm Turkish hospitality. NIGHTLY DINNER SPECIALS AVAILABLE FOR PRIVATE PARTIES AND CATERING OPEN SUNDAYS FOR BRUNCH AND DINNER!

Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine Known for our meze (small plates) and excellent wine selection

6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis, MO 63109 • 314.645.9919 •

How about a culinary trip to Munich? Our large selection of award-winning Bavarian Bier, famous Riesling wines, seasonal specialties and "Gemuetlichkeit" will make you feel like you just visited Bavaria. During March discover our Lent specialties, cabbage dishes, wild boar, and of course our large standard menu of authentic German dishes. Live Oompah and accordion music every second and fourth Saturday. Visit our website at for pictures, music schedule and special events. Weekend reservations recommended • Groups welcome

Tue-Fri 11-2 & 5-9, Sat & Sun 5-9

1415 McKinley St. • Mascoutah, IL • 618.566.4884 • Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012


| where we’re dining

from-scratch fare Tucked inside a tiny former train depot, de.lish features from-scratch favorites baked fresh daily. Cheesecake is the star, with more than 30 flavors in rotation and three to five on hand each day, but don’t overlook the bakery’s cookies, cupcakes, scones, muffins or cinnamon rolls. Breakfast is served all day: The Mt. Everest is a tower of sugary French toast (and we say try it for lunch). Sandwiches are huge, and The Veg sandwich (cream cheese and avocado hummus layered on ciabatta with Japanese cucumber, red onion, Roma tomatoes, roasted red peppers and spinach) is downright delicious. Bacon fanatics, try The BLB. That’s bacon, lettuce and bacon – who needs tomato when it just crowds out the extra bacon, right? And our favorite? The Inferno, where slow-cooked beef, jalapeños, pepper Jack and homemade Cajun remoulade are topped with fried onions and toasted on French bread. – C.N. 1060 Saint Catherine St., Florissant


MARCH 2012

de.lish Cheesecake Bakery & Cafe 314.831.7400 Florissant

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman


FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | what we’re dRinking

South African Cabernet written by Jennifer Johnson

Have a penchant for Cabernet Sauvignon and a sense of adventure to taste beyond California, France and Italy? South Africa has made leaps and bounds in modernizing its centuries-old wine industry since apartheid isolation. Its Mediterranean – yet Benguela-current-affected – cooler, wetter climate can yield ideal, taxing conditions for classic grapes such as Cabernet. South Africa now has a red-wine self-identity, and fine examples are grown in the southwest, near Cape Town, in regions such as Stellenbosch and Paarl. Interestingly, winemakers are producing two distinct styles: a New World, fruit-forward version comparable to Napa wines and a more earth-driven Old World style similar to Bordeaux wines.

Rustenberg John X Merriman 2007

Stellenbosch, South Africa

Tobacco, red earth, vanilla, currants and loganberries make up this wine’s Old World-style profile, and its long finish lends a whiff of freshly roasted coffee beans. This CabernetMerlot-Petit Verdot blend makes a great companion to wild boar stew, steak tartare with horseradish and capers, and eggplant fries. $26.99; The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton,

Ernie Els Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Stellenbosch, South Africa

They say it takes a large fortune to make a small fortune in the wine industry, and PGA golfer Ernie Els succeeds in producing some compelling wines in his homeland. His reds include this lush raspberry- and black cherry-laden Cab, which shows hints of bacon, cedar and baking spices. Full-bodied with a balanced acid-tannin profile, this wine pairs well with meat-topped pizza, gorgonzola and walnut gnocchi, and venison loin stuffed with sausage, currants and pecans. $24; Whole Foods Market, 1601 S. Brentwood Blvd., Brentwood,

A St. Louis-based wine and food enthusiast, Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist, and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine.

Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012



| where we’re dining

the difference a night can make Come sundown, the mild-mannered (and well-loved) Half & Half transforms itself into MEDIAnoche, where modern Mexican cuisine and craft cocktails spice things up. Once you’re seated, three salsas are delivered to your table (our favorite is the roasted red pepper) alongside freshly fried chips, so you can munch while you debate what to have for dinner. Guacamole is mashed MEDIAnoche and cocktails are flamed tableside. 314.725.0719 (If you like mezcal, try Death in the Clayton Andes. Tequila lovers should sip a Savage Detective.) Stripped-down street tacos can be filled with pork belly, beef cheek, skirt steak or avocado. Looking for something larger? Try the Lomo de Cerdo, where pork tenderloin is served with an addictive sweetspicy serrano-sultana purée. In the Pato al Pastor, grilled duck breast and duck carnitas are served with chunks of pineapple, charred onion and a bit of guajillo chile. And if you love Half & Half’s hangar steak and eggs during daylight hours, at noche, order the Dos Carnes, where hangar steak and braised beef cheek are served with salsa borracha on poblano gratin. – C.N.

PHOTOGRAPHy by Corey Woodruff

8135 Maryland Ave., Clayton


MARCH 2012


RICE Though rice is a staple pantry item, it comes in many varieties, and each can cook differently, with its own unique taste and shape. Find the right grain for the job while experimenting with the flavorful curry powders we explore on p. 53. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; B.W.

Missouri white rice

Indian brown basmati rice

Thai jasmine rice

| 1 | Martin Rice Co. medium-grain enriched rice, $4.49 (2-lb bag); Straubâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, multiple locations, | 2 | Swad brown basmati rice, $6.99 (4-lb bag); Seema Enterprises, 14238 Manchester Road, Manchester, | 3 | Asian Taste broken jasmine rice, $4.95 (5-lb bag); Jay International Foods, 3172 S. Grand Blvd., South Grand, 314.772.2552 PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012


NoboleisVineyards Sunrise Balloon Rides over the Vineyards

Lenten Specials All Throughout March


Homemade Greek Food Carry out • Catering • Private Parties

$ $

Call For Details

Gyros • Kebobs • Baklava

25 249

A tethered balloon will take up to 8 people per person ➲ at a time on a 10 minute balloon ride. per A full balloon ride will launch for 1 1/2 hour person ➲ balloon ride over the rolling hills of Augusta!


Expires 3/31/12

OLYMPIA KEBOB HOUSE AND TAVERNA 7 days a week from 11am 1543 McCausland • 314-781-1299

1834 Dunn Road, Florissant, MO 63033


duchesne high school



S P $

G P 135,000


Credit Toward a New Home or Renovation on Current Home

10,000 Cash (I O P)



120,000 cash


in one payment

S C P R F $  $,

GRAND PRIZE DRAWING Saturday, April 28

20 Chances to Win! GREAT ODDS

Only 3,500 Tickets Will Be Sold! $100

FOR 2012!

in the past 16 years, we have PER TICKET awarded ALL prizes, given away a total of $2,413,950 and had 455 winners!

Void where prohibited by law. Need not be present to win. Receipts will be mailed. All prizes are subject to federal and state income taxes. House winner assumes closing costs, if any. If a minimum of 2,750 tickets are not sold, Duchesne High School may award 20 pro-rated cash prizes. Site of custom building or home renovation must be located within 50 miles of St. Charles, Missouri city limits. *GROUP ENTRIES: Participants in a group entry must identify a single person as the prize recipient and that individual’s name and address must be listed as purchaser on the ticket. Group participants must be listed on a separate sheet (name, address and phone number for each) and attached to the ticket. It is the responsibility of the group’s participants to allocate the prize.


One of our most popular items is our fried chicken. The TALK-N-CHIC™ is a house secret, trademarked recipe that has been passed down through generations. Castelli's Moonlight at 255, also offers other homemade specialties such as the “Roman” house salad dressing, tortellini, and ravioli. All are absolutely delicious! If you're a steak, chop or seafood lover, you can't go wrong. The menu from top to bottom is wonderful and the prices are a great value. If you fancy a quality bottle of wine we offer a selection for every palate and budget.

Castelli's is the first and only locally owned & operated restaurant serving the community for over 75 years!

Convenient location from St. Louis off of I-255

42&& '#@?"!6=!A <0( / -:?#5+ 91 / ,%*(2,$)2,$& / ; ;(38@?": ; : >$..(3#7 @ 18

MARCH 2012


| whAT we’re drinking

The Bee’s Knees Story and recipe by Matt Seiter

With a history more elusive than a speakeasy door, there are few documented facts about The Bee’s Knees. We do know this classic cocktail originated during Prohibition. Its namesake is a slang term from the same era used to describe something of the utmost excellence. However, the drink didn’t appear in print until the late 1940s, when it showed up in The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks by David Embury. The Bee’s Knees is equally simple and complex. Its simplicity is found in the short list of ingredients: gin, lemon juice and honey. It’s a gin sour made with honey instead of simple syrup. However, its complexity lies in that variation. Honey has layers of sweetness and floral notes, giving it heavy influence over the flavor of the drink. And not all honey is alike. Similar to terroir’s role in winemaking, the environment, climate and particular flora of the region where the honey was produced greatly influence the flavors present in a given bottle. This is a great gateway cocktail for making gin lovers out of those who have sworn off the stuff. Most people who don’t like gin can be heard reciting the rationale, “I don’t like drinking a Christmas tree.” However, the evergreen flavor of the juniper present in most gins is easily overpowered in a cocktail (unless, of course, it’s a gin martini or gin and tonic). Furthermore, the other botanicals, herbs and roots present in gin add complexity to cocktails that vodka simply doesn’t offer. In The Bee’s Knees, citrus is the predominant flavor, and depending on the gin you use, you could find nice cardamom, orrisroot and lavender notes dancing on your palate.

The Bee’s Knees Serves | 1 |

Laura Ann Miller

½ oz 1 ¾ oz ¾ oz

gin, preferably North Shore Distiller’s Gin No. 6 or Tanqueray No. 10 lemon juice honey (or honey syrup)* lemon twist

| Preparation | Mix all ingredients except lemon twist in a


shaker, add ice and shake for 15 seconds. Fine-strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a lemon twist. *If using raw honey, stir all the ingredients together until well-combined before adding ice.

BARTENDER KNOWLEDGE Workin’ the Honeys When using honey in cocktails, you have two options: raw honey or honey syrup. If you’re using raw honey, it’s important to stir the honey with the other ingredients until it’s dissolved before you add ice to the shaker. If you don’t, the honey will gel up and form a hard clump.

to be used or bottled for future use. Just keep in mind that once you add water to honey, it will start to ferment after one to two weeks. (If it sits longer than that, you’re making mead.) To create a more flavorful honey syrup, add dried herbs or spices to the pot while the syrup is simmering. In the spring, try dried lavender flowers, mint or orrisroot. In fall and winter, add cinnamon sticks, star anise, cloves or allspice.

Making honey syrup is easy, and it eliminates the problem of honey gelling when added to ice. Simply combine equal parts honey and water in a pot, bring it to just above simmering (about 170°F) and then remove from heat. Once it’s cooled to room temperature, it’s ready

– M.S.

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012


FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | THE DISH

Spent Grain Beer Bread

Contributor’s Pick

Schlafly Bottleworks

Nate Bonner

314.241.2337 MAPLEwood Bonner shows you how to fall in love with lamb in this month’s recipe feature, Game Changer (p. 42).


MARCH 2012


Jonathan Gayman

Because I live in a city with such a lively beer scene, it’s no surprise that one of my favorite places to grab a drink and some grub is Schlafly Bottleworks. I like to start off any meal there with the Spent Grain Beer Bread. The magic behind this bittersweet bread is the use of spent grain left over from the beer-making process, which imparts wonderful aromatics and the slight bite of hops. The bread is presented fresh-baked and hot and served with Salemville blue cream cheese and Cheddar-and-chive butter for spreading. The first whiff reveals aromas of caramel, molasses and dark toast. The texture and appearance are quite similar to banana bread, but this moist and dense loaf has a dark, slightly crunchy crust that sets it apart from other beer breads. Though most any of Schlafly’s beers would pair wonderfully with this, the lighter and more delicate Kölsch is a nice complement to the bold bread and cleans up the palate before the main course arrives. 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood

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MARCH 2012


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MEAT ME IN AFFTON When Herb Kenrick began selling sausages from his rolling market outside south St. Louis pubs in 1945, he couldn’t have imagined how Kenrick’s Meats would grow over the years. Today, father-and-son co-owners Joe and Tim Weinmann have evolved the business into a bustling market and catering service that is a one-stop shop for prime cuts, outstanding premade meals and indispensible cooking and grilling advice. In the small-but-comprehensive market you can pick up traditional fresh cuts, housemade sausages and ground meats at the butcher counter; sandwich meats, cheeses and sides from the deli counter; pre-cut specialty meats and housemade prepared foods in the refrigerated cases; and a selection of grocery basics, such as breads, produce, canned

314.631.2440 affton

goods and dairy items throughout the store. And pies, cookies, jams and salad dressing from the famed Blue Owl Restaurant and Bakery in Kimmswick, Mo., are favorites among shoppers. Kenrick’s even has a food counter called the K Café, which serves sandwiches, soups, burgers, brats and much more. Plus you can rent special equipment, such as barbecue pits for smoking your own meats. Yet perhaps even more impressive than Kenrick’s selection is its atmosphere. Within the friendly folks behind the counter runs a deep knowledge of butchering and a true passion for great food. Leave your dinner plans in their hands, and you won’t be disappointed.

– B.W.

4324 Weber Road, Affton

TIM WEINMANN’S TOP 3 PICKS FOR YOUR SHOPPING CART | 1 | Ozark grillers – thinly sliced sirloin stuffed with extra-sharp Cheddar and




wrapped in bacon – are the top-selling item in the store. Tim suggests throwing them on the grill at your next backyard gathering for a quick-cooking appetizer. | 2 | Mix and match the specialty brats, including jalapeño-Cheddar, pizza supreme (made with everything you’ll find on a supreme PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller

pizza) and beer brats. Make it a meal with the housemade potato chips, creamy macaroni salad or tri-color pasta salad.

| 3 | The stuffed pork tenderloin, packed with spinach, blue cheese and roasted garlic, makes a great dinner centerpiece and goes great with the deli’s prosciuttowrapped asparagus and roasted potatoes.

Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012


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Inspired by our exploration of Indian curries (p. 53), we’re spicing up our kitchens even more with the rich, warming tones of these stylish products. – B.W.






| 1 | Colorblocked balloon cutting board, $248, and Colorblocked baguette board, $198; Anthropologie, St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, anthropologie. com | 2 | Emile Henry 3.7-quart tajine, $129.95; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton,

| 3 | Spice Route condiment set, $29.95; Pier 1 Imports, multiple locations, | 4 | Lazy 05 chairs by B&B Italia, starting at $968 each; Centro Modern Furnishings, 4727 McPherson Ave., Central West End,

| 5 | Peugeot u’Select lacquered salt and pepper mills, $58 each; Williams-Sonoma, multiple locations,

Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012



Kevin Lemp

President and co-owner, 4 Hands Brewing Co. written by Catherine Neville

How did you decide to bring brew master Will Johnston on board? I had a very specific concept in mind when I was looking to bring on a head brewer. I wanted to brew bold American craft beers while also looking at more delicate styles like saisons, as well as having a barrel-aging program. Will had everything I was looking for: A great resume, five years at Goose Island in Chicago, over a decade in the industry and barrel-aging experience. What beers are you brewing? Right now we have our four core beers available: Divided Sky Rye IPA, Reprise Centennial Red, Cast Iron Oatmeal Brown and Single Speed Session. We also have our first three seasonal offerings available. Bona Fide is a Russian imperial stout brewed with Goshen espresso and whole vanilla beans. Pyrus is our fall and winter saison – a French saison brewed with organic pear juice, whole white peppercorns and fresh orange zest. War Hammer is an imperial IPA brewed with Pacific Northwest hops. For the spring we are looking to release a beer brewed with white wine and champagne yeast. We will also be offering Prunus, our spring and summer saison brewed with sour cherries, as well as a traditional Berliner Weiss (tart wheat ale) with a modern twist. Typical family meal? Homemade meatloaf, grilled chicken with steamed veggies or Thai. We are trying to make one meal and have the whole family sit down and eat it. Favorite food memory? Summer barbecues as a child. Having friends over and watching my dad grill his “Lemp burger.” I loved that hamburger. Favorite junk food? Ice cream – the kind with a lot of junk in it. Words of wisdom for others thinking of opening a brewery? I would say the same thing a few others told me. Take your budget and triple it – take your timeline and double it. Don’t get discouraged. Follow your dream! Last meal? I would start with Japanese and finish with a slice of New York cheesecake. A grilled filet for the entrée, medium-rare with blue-cheese butter. Roasted beets on the side, with a big bottle of Orangina, a growler of Divided Sky Rye IPA and an espresso. 26

MARCH 2012

4 Hands Brewing Co. 1220 S. 8th St., LaSalle Park 314.436.1559 Visit to read the full interview with Kevin Lemp. Pictured: Rowan (4) , Kevin, Maegan and Fischer (18 months)

PHOTOGRAPHY By Gregg Goldman

Kevin Lemp spent his career in beverage sales and marketing before making the leap into craft brewing, launching 4 Hands Brewing Co. in the LaSalle Park neighborhood last year. His experience has served him well. “During my career I helped launch more than 50 brands. I was able to see firsthand what works and doesn’t work,” said Lemp. “Our goal is to create a brand that consumers can trade up and down. We wanted to create a beer like Single Speed, an American blond ale with elderflower, which both the craft beer enthusiast as well as someone just entering the category can enjoy.”

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MARCH 2012



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gadget a-go-go

Put to the test







Spatulas written by Pat Eby

Photography by Laura Ann Miller




Good Cook Black Epicure Nylon Square Turner

Chef’n Vibe Red Translucent Slotted Turner



Inexpensive and lightweight, this workhorse spatula does a respectable job pushing eggs around the skillet and offers a stable head platform for turning sausage patties and pancakes. Solid, sturdy construction of handle, grip and head too. Dishwasher-safe.

This silicone spatula glides so smoothly through scrambled egg curds that it’s nearly poetic, yielding eggs that are fluffy, light, lush on the plate and tender on the tongue. It’s also excellent for folding omelets. Great color with fun flower styling of the slots on the head. Also stable and strong for heavier lifts, like oven-baked French toast and stratas.


The leading edge of the head is beveled; the side edges are thicker and resist gliding easily under food. Style-wise, this spatula’s stodgy as Grandma’s lace-up oxfords. Cookedon egg required elbow grease to scrub cleanly off the head. $2.28; Shop ’n Save, multiple locations,


Overeasy wasn’t the easiest turn. A few yolks broke, even with practice. The reach of the head’s a little short to loosen the center of a frittata in an 8-inch pan. $8.49; Target, multiple locations,

Joie Lil’ Flip Egg Spatula PROS

Of all spatulas tested, this one provided the slickest, fastest, cleanest flips for overeasy eggs. Don’t let its small size fool you – this tool rocks. The head’s so thin it flexes fine in small skillets. The wider angle of the handle to the head lifts even large eggs with ease. It’s cheap. It’s silly. It’s probably here and gone. But it works. Buy two. CONS

Lil’ Flip looks like a toy. The threedimensional egg-with-a-face on the handle and the mustard-y yellow color scream kitchen-kitsch. Kids will love it, but fans of good visual design will probably cringe.



OXO Good Grips Nylon Flexible Turner

Joseph Joseph Elevate Slotted Turner



With its cushy grip and the thinnest edges all around its flexible head, this little black spatula eased under a big frittata just so, flipped fried eggs with ease and scrambled saucily. Delicate fish fillets, pancakes and crisp cookies fared well too. Simple to operate and easy to clean.

Sleek and stylish, this turner sports a built-in rest in the weighted handle. Because the head stays off the stovetop or counter, crosscontamination and messes lessen. A good design feature. The shape’s zoomy. It looks great. CONS


No major cons for light cooking turns, but a turner with a stronger head seems more secure for burgers, pork steaks and chops. $6.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood,

$2.99; Bed Bath & Beyond, multiple locations,

Good looks aren’t everything. Not a good turner for eggs. It’s inflexible. The slight angle of the handle to head makes positioning this turner in the skillet awkward. Broken yolks and raggedy omelets resulted. $9; Sur la Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac,

C h ec

k pa g o u t e


W h at to l oo k for : Handles and Grip: Choose a turner with a handle angled 30 degrees or greater for easier maneuverability around your skillet. Fit the handle to your palm. Eggs flip fast, so the grip should be sure to avoid slips.

Size: Match the spatula to the pan size. Five- and 6-inch pans need turners small enough to fit and flex under food. Eight- and 10-inch skillets can accommodate a bigger spatula, but avoid supersized heads, which are tough to slip beneath delicate eggs.

Slots and Edges: Both slotted and solid heads work well for flips and turns. Fans of scrambled should consider slots. Slotted heads seem to keep curds fluffier in the push toward the center of the pan. A straight rather than curved leading edge moves better for scrambles too. Look for consistent beveled or thin edges on all sides of the head to keep turning easy.

Materials and Construction: Be kind to your nonstick pans. Use silicone, nylon or plastic please. Heat-resistant, of course. Some spring in the spatula helps keep yolks intact and makes turns easier.

Use these spatulas to give your flip a little lift when making our French omelet recipe in this month’s Tech School column. Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012


ON the shelf

BEER written by Michael Sweeney

SPIRITS written by Chad Michael George

The creator of and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

Charleville Microbrewery’s Hoptimistic IPA

Kronan Swedish Punsch

STYLE: American IPA (6.5% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Whole Foods Market, multiple locations,; $4.99 (22-oz bottle) PAIRINGS: Blackened chicken sandwich • Crab cakes

The proliferation of local breweries in and around St. Louis is astonishing. Breweries such as Charleville have been producing great beer right under our noses for years. Hoptimistic IPA is loaded with American hops to give it intense grassy and floral notes. This hop monster coats your tongue and leaves you wanting more.

Odell Brewing Co.’s Odell Red STYLE: American Red (6.5% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations,; $9.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) PAIRINGS: Pad Thai • Quesadillas

Thanks to a well-known, mass-produced faux Irish beer, red beers can get a bit of a bad rap. However, I challenge anyone to drink Odell Red and tell me it’s boring. With a huge tangerine hop aroma and complex, layered maltiness, this exciting seasonal beer is one you don’t want to overlook.

Boulevard Brewing Co.’s Bully! Porter STYLE: English Porter (5.4% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Schnucks, multiple locations,; $6.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) PAIRINGS: Roast suckling pig • Vanilla ice cream

While St. Patty’s Day is definitely the time of year for stouts, don’t forget about the stout’s older brother: the porter. This English-style porter from Boulevard is definitively rich but doesn’t weigh down your palate with too much body. There are still big notes of chocolate, which makes this a great beer to pair with roasted meats or your favorite dessert.

PROVENANCE: Sweden (26% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Randall’s, multiple locations,; $25.99 TRY IT: On the rocks with a healthy squeeze of lime

Swedish punsch, the Scandinavian sugarcane-based spirit, has made a return to the liquor shelves. Punsch has not seen life in the States for some time, but thanks to Eric Seed, owner of importer Haus Alpenz, and his partnership with Swedish oenologist Henrik Facile, this arcane spirit has been reborn. To experience it in the true Swedish way, sip it warm with a bowl of pea soup.

Absolut Grapevine PROVENANCE: Sweden (40% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton,; $23.99 TRY IT: Chilled or on the rocks with a splash of soda

Absolut created the flavored vodka market, and it continues to push the envelope. Unlike its competitors, Absolut produces products that are not filled with added sugars and artificial flavors. Grapevine is actually flavored with dragon fruit, papaya and grapes, but the end result is a product that eerily has the nose of a California Chardonnay. It's the first grape-flavored vodka I’ve encountered that truly tastes as though it was flavored with grapes as opposed to grape-flavored candy.

Averell Damson Gin Liqueur PROVENANCE: New York (33% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations,; $24.99 TRY IT: With a few ice cubes and a splash of soda

Plum-flavored gins are nothing new. Sloe gin was a staple of bars at the turn of the 20th century. The link here is that the damson is a variety of the plum family, and the sloe berry is a relative. Damson is a small, crimson plum with an intense spiciness and tartness, which lends itself well to this application. Averell barrel-presses damson plums during the New York harvest and blends the resulting juice with a smallbatch gin. The result is a slightly sweet, spicy and tart gin that is great for both mixing and sipping neat.

OUR TOP PICKS FOR MARCH Pouring wine photography by © Patterson

WINE written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

Susana Balbo Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 PROVENANCE: Mendoza, Argentina AVAILABLE AT: Saint Louis Cellars, 2640 S. Big Bend Blvd., Maplewood,; $25.99 PAIRINGS: Lamb • Pork tenderloin • Gruyère

Defying the perception that all New World Cabernets must be in-your-face bold and highly tannic, Susana Balbo takes this classic grape and gives it a modern South American touch. This wine is richly layered with black fruit, tobacco, spice, and subtle notes of herbal mint and floral violet. Structure, balance and approachability keep this red a year-round drinker.

Celler Malondro Malondro 2007 PROVENANCE: Montsant, Spain AVAILABLE AT: St. Louis Wine Market & Tasting Room, 164 Chesterfield Commons E., Chesterfield,; $25 PAIRINGS: Fajitas • Vegetable lasagna • Chorizo

A single-vineyard wine from a small familyrun estate in Spain, this blend of 50 percent Garnacha and 50 percent Cariñena is elegant yet intense. It starts with prominent plum and pepper on the palate, but given a little air time, the wine unlocks tones of cedar and espresso. This region is known for producing Priorat-style wines without the usual hefty price tags.

Nicholson Jones Chardonnay (Dolly Vineyard) 2010 PROVENANCE: Alexander Valley, Calif. AVAILABLE AT: Schnucks, 10275 Clayton Road, Frontenac,; $27 PAIRINGS: Oysters • Ahi tuna • White pizza

Mingling his French heritage with his California grapes, winemaker Julien Fayard finds harmony in balancing the Old World and the New World of wine. Similar to Chablis, this stainless-steel-aged Chardonnay conjures up notes of pineapple, pear and green apple. Even before your first sip, the glass pulls you in with fragrant citrus rind. The wine keeps you coming back for more with its enticing minerality and mouthwatering acidity.

Join Angela Ortmann and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville for a happy hour wine tasting at Milagro Modern Mexican on Thu., Mar. 15, at 6pm. RSVP to

JOIN US! Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012


mystery shopper

Harissa Cream Cheese By NICK MILLER, Harvest

Chef Nick Miller kicks up Sunday brunch at Harvest with a new take on a classic. “We toast a sesame bagel, smear it with harissa cream cheese, then arrange thinly sliced cured and smoked salmon on top. We finish off the dish with a cucumber-caper relish,” Miller says. Because harissa is a strongly flavored ingredient, Miller recommends adding small amounts to the recipe and then tasting as you proceed. If the harissa flavor is a bit too pronounced, Miller recommends adding a touch of honey and a bit more lemon juice to the dish to balance it out. Serves | 4 | 8 oz 1½ Tbsp 1 1 tsp ½ tsp ½ tsp ¼ tsp

cream cheese, softened harissa lemon, zested lemon juice caraway seeds, cracked and toasted fennel pollen kosher salt

| Preparation | Use the paddle attachment on a stand mixer or a good handheld mixer to whip the cream cheese for 30 seconds. Add remaining ingredients and thoroughly incorporate into the cream cheese. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Visit for more recipes featuring harissa.

So, your friends have finally discovered sriracha. Of course, you were telling them about it years ago, spicy-trend finder that you are. And now you’re longing for a new condiment to break you out of the pack again. But can anything else offer that elusive combination of piquant heat and tangy flavor? Yes. Get ready to meet your new chile sauce darling: harissa.

Feast extra

written by Russ Carr

What is it?

How do I use it?

Harissa is a thick paste made of ground chiles (most often

Just like sriracha, harissa’s use is pretty much limited

piri piri and serrano peppers), garlic, spices and olive oil.

only by your imagination. Because it’s a paste, harissa

It originated in Tunisia, where merchants acquired hot

makes an ideal rub for grilled meat – steak in particular.

peppers from Spanish traders returning from the New

Add it to mayo when you’re making egg salad or

World. Tunisian chefs prepared the peppers by grinding

dressing a burger. Any dish that could use a spark of

them in a mortar with other ingredients.

heat is a candidate.

As the popularity of harissa – and the availability of chiles

A common Tunisian appetizer features harissa thinned

– spread across Northern Africa, regional variations

with a bit of lemon juice and olive oil and served with

developed, some including tomatoes (fresh or sun-dried)

warm bread, such as pita. Next time your sriracha-

or red peppers; spices varied from caraway to mint. Most

obsessed friends come over, serve up a batch of harissa

harissa exported to America, however, sticks close to the

dip. Just don’t tell them what’s in it as you savor your

original recipe, delivering a piquant kick in the mouth.

spicy new secret ingredient.

FEAST regrets to announce that columnist Russ Carr passed away unexpectedly last month. We will miss his sharp wit and beautiful writing. Our hearts go out to his family.


MARCH 2012

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg

MEET: Harissa

check it out!


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Buy any regular-priced entrée from our menu and receive the second entrée of equal or lesser value for $2.99

HURRY! Offer expires 3/18/12

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Buy any regular-priced entrée from our menu and receive the second entrée of equal or lesser value for $2.99

HURRY! Offer expires 3/18/12

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Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012



Classic French Omelet STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassy Vires

If you ask French chefs how to measure the talent of a fellow chef, many will agree on one simple test: Make an omelet. Something so simple yet so elegant can truly test a chef’s attention to detail, patience and intuition. The classic French omelet was introduced to America by Dione Lucas at her New York restaurant The Gingerman. Lucas, a predecessor to Julia Child, was known to have an arsenal of cast iron omelet pans that she never washed but merely wiped clean between uses. Today a nonstick skillet is the accepted omelet pan. Specifically, one that is 7 to 8 inches in diameter with 2-inch sides and a long curved handle.

The French omelet is an individual portion made from two to three eggs with no addition of water, cream or milk. While American country omelets are typically large and fluffy and stuffed with hearty fillers, the French omelet is light, moist and delicate, with a slightly unset center. When fillers are used, they include mild ingredients such as herbs, cheese or tomato in small portions so as to not detract from the flavor and texture of the eggs themselves. The French omelet is cooked on medium-high heat in butter, and it is cooked very quickly so the eggs are never browned. The eggs themselves should be whipped for no more than 40 vigorous strokes, and the whites should be completely incorporated with the yolks. Once the eggs hit the hot pan, the whisking continues, either with a dinner fork or with forceful jerking of the pan back and forth to keep the eggs moving as they cook. Then comes the tough part. The French omelet should be plated in a very specific way. It isn’t folded over like the American omelet but rather folded in on itself from both sides by sheer force of shaking the pan and then inverted onto a warm serving plate. Julia Child, who made some seriously ugly French omelets, would cheat by using two forks to tuck in the sides of the omelet once it hit the plate. While I am not above using a fork to help the process along, a perfect French omelet comes out as a clean, long oval and is simply garnished with butter or crème fraîche. Served with a green salad, it is delectable at any meal. Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen. She received her culinary training in Houston and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.


What’s the difference between French and American omelets? Watch and learn. Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at, or watch the video

in the Watch & Listen section at


MARCH 2012

Omelet with Fines Herbes This incredibly simple recipe will thwart even exoerienced chefs, but the ingredients are inexpensive and the preparation time is negligible, so try it once, learn from your mistakes and try it again. Serves | 1 | 3 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp

large eggs fines herbes, chopped* salt and freshly ground black pepper butter, unsalted crème fraîche or softened butter for garnish

| Preparation | Crack the eggs in a small glass bowl and season with fines herbes, salt and pepper. | 1 | Whip the eggs for 30 to 40 vigorous strokes and set aside. Heat a 7- to 8-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and add

butter. Swirl the pan to coat with melting butter. Once the butter is melted but not browned, add the whipped eggs.

| 2 | Using a fork, quickly stir the eggs and shake the pan back and forth until the eggs are almost set. Quickly and forcefully shake the eggs toward the end of the pan, opposite the handle. Run the fork around the outer edge of the eggs, loosening them from the pan. | 3 | Fold the top of the egg mixture (closest to

the handle) down halfway. Tap the handle of the pan to gently slide the egg mixture halfway out of the pan, and then use the fork to fold this edge back toward the middle of the omelet.

| 4 | Grip the handle from underneath, and gently invert the omelet onto a warmed plate. Garnish with softened butter or crème fraîche and serve immediately. *Fines herbes is a blend of chives, parsley, tarragon and chervil. Dried fines herbes is readily available, but fresh is always best.



PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg


|4| Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012


how to

how to

SHUCK AND EAT AN OYSTER written by Brandon Chuang

When it comes to food, there are few items as iconic as raw oysters. They represent freshness, luxury and deliciousness. They’re eaten on vacation, on anniversaries or on someone else’s tab but never at home, and they’re never prepared by you. Because chances are you’re not sure where to begin. Well, you begin today with our step-by-step guide that will have you shucking in no time.

Scrub the Shells Oyster meat may offer a clean and pure flavor, but the shell starts out pretty dirty. Most experts settle on a metal brush for getting off all the sediment and grime. Just place each oyster under cold running water and brush away. | 1 | As you’re cleaning you’ll notice two things: There are two distinct shells that are connected at a hinge, and one shell is deeper and more cuplike than the other.

Get in Place The most important aspect of shucking an oyster is consistent pressure. However, oysters tend to slip and move around, something you don’t want happening when you’re wielding a sharp knife. You could purchase a metal oyster-shucking glove, but we recommend a trusty kitchen towel for our approach. Fold the towel in half and place it on the edge of your prep surface. | 2 | Place an oyster on one half of the towel – hinge facing out, “cup” facing down – and fold the other half on top of the oyster.

Shuck and Plate | 3 | Using the point of your oyster knife, pierce the hinge that connects the two shells; you may have to do a little bit of wiggling to truly get the knife into the oyster. Once your knife is sturdily wedged into the hinge, turn it like you would a key; this should begin separating the two shells. Once they’re separated, you’ll have to remove the adductor muscle that keeps the shell together. Insert your knife along the top shell and scrape against the roof of the oyster. | 4 | With your other hand, rotate the oyster around the knife. Discard the top, and repeat the process on the bottom cup of the oyster, all the while ensuring that you keep the oyster level so as not to spill the oyster juice, or liquor, that has settled at the bottom of the shell. Once the process is complete, set your oysters aside on a bed of ice until they are all cleaned and ready to eat.

Slurp Away Eating an oyster is an experience unto itself, so of course people adhere to myriad customs and traditions. Hot sauces, crackers, mignonette, Worcestershire – the options and combinations are exhaustive. Our personal favorite is a squeeze of lemon and possibly a dab of grated horseradish. After dressing it up, the only thing left to do is suck it down. Make sure to get the liquor when you tip the oyster – that’s where a lot of the flavor is – and chew a little bit. You’ve gone through the trouble of getting to the meat, so the last thing you should do is throw it back like it’s ibuprofen.

Screw It

Illustration by Derek Bauman


MARCH 2012

Oyster knife? But your kitchen utensil drawer is about to collapse from the weight of too many gadgets. We can empathize. If you don’t want to augment your arsenal with such a singularly used item, simply look to your garage. A small flathead screwdriver will be just as effective for prying open oyster shells; you’ll just need a separate knife to do the scraping.




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Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012



SERIOUSLY STUFFED STORY and Recipe by Lucy Schnuck

The waning of winter calls for rich dishes with densely layered flavors. This recipe offers a tender cut of meat stuffed with a slightly sweet, slightly bitter and extremely flavorful cheese sauce with the ever-satisfying addition of roasted garlic. These cornerstones of comfort food come together to provide a hearty and palate-pleasing weeknight meal.

Serves | 6 | 2½ to 3 oz 2 Tbsp ¾ cup 1 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 1¾- to 2-lb 2 heads 1 Tbsp 2 tsp


Roquefort whole-grain Dijon mustard fresh bread crumbs honey Italian flat-leaf parsley flank steak garlic, roasted and cloves peeled kosher salt freshly ground black pepper grapeseed oil for coating/grilling

| Preparation | Preheat grill to medium heat. | 1 | In a food processor, combine the cheese, mustard, bread crumbs and honey, and process until the ingredients come together into a paste. Scrape into a bowl, fold in the parsley and set aside. With a very sharp knife, carefully cut the flank on the long side, being careful not to cut all the way through, leaving the meat attached at the top, side and bottom and creating a pocket. Spread the cheese mixture evenly inside the pocket. | 2 | Stuff the garlic cloves in the steak, spreading them out evenly. Close the

pocket and make sure the steak isn’t overstuffed. Season the outside of the steak with salt and pepper, and close the pocket with wooden skewers or toothpicks* or | 3 | tie it with linen twine about 5 times widthwise and once lengthwise, like a roast. Lightly coat with oil and grill, about 10 minutes per side. Remove the flank from the grill, cover with tinfoil and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes. Slice on the diagonal and serve. *Soak the skewers or toothpicks in water for at least an hour so they don’t burn.





The good linens. Keep some linen butcher’s twine on hand to use when grilling. It’s a little more expensive than conventional twine but won’t burn on the grill. A quicker roast. Roasting garlic in the oven can take a lot of time, but there is a way to cheat this process. Peel garlic cloves and place them in a pot over medium heat with about 1½ inches of grapeseed oil. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes or until the garlic is soft. This method not only

yields roasted garlic in less than half the time but also creates a deliciously aromatic garlic oil. Getting fresh. Fresh bread crumbs are necessary for the success of this recipe. Boxed bread crumbs will create a cheese mixture with a grainier, less desirable texture. To make your own fresh bread crumbs, simply throw a few pieces of bread into a food processor and pulse until completely processed. Easy as that!

check it out! |3| PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

Feast extra

Check out for a step-by-step slide show on making this month’s dish.

Love recipes?


MARCH 2012

JOIN US! rsvp: or 314.909.1704

Join FEAST and Schnucks Cooks Cooking School on Wed., March 28, at 6pm to make the tasty dishes in the menu above. Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RSVP at

Check out our extensive database! Get access to every recipe published in FEAST – plus hundreds from the St. Louis Post-Dispatch’s Let’s Eat section. Our easy-to-use database lets you search by ingredients, course, cuisine and more.

Just click the Recipes link at!

PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012


Full service catering for over 28 years. Weddings • Corporate Events • Special Events Anniversaries • Showers • Birthdays • Picnics • Bar Services Whether you’re having an informal outdoor gathering, an extravagant formal affair or anything in between….Callier’s has just the right catering package for you! Call us today for your complimentary consultation. Voted Best In Quality 2001 - By Small Business Monthly

14787 Manchester Road • 636.230.0019 •

Now open Sundays for dinner. Stop by for lunch and delight in our lunchtime specials, or come unwind during our happy hour and enjoy drink specials and select sushi at half price. Whatever time of day we would love to welcome and serve you and your friends and family as our special guests.

1/2 Price Sushi & Drink Specials Mon.- Fri. 2:30 pm to 6:30 pm Sunday 5 pm to 9:30 pm 10% off Specialty Rolls on Monday 10% off Entire Order on Sundays only Not valid with other promotions. 3/1/12 to 3/31/12

15015 Manchester Road Manchester & Holloway Road Next to Oberweis • Ballwin • 636.527.7999 •

Lunch Specials $5.95 Monday - Saturday Featuring Stuffed Cheddar Burgers, Chicken Salad Sandwich, BBQ Pork Chop, Southwest Chicken Salad, Trio Sliders, Breakfast Burgers, Tuna Salad Sandwich, Cod Cutup Plates, Catfish Plates, and Fried Chicken. Stop in today. Open Daily 11AM til 1:30 AM Daily Food and Drink Specials Every day and night. Happy Hour Mon - Fri 4 PM-6 PM Free Hot Wings Tues & Thurs from 4 PM-6 PM Friday & Saturday from 9 PM-1:30 DJ BRING IN THIS AD FOR 20% OFF FOOD & DRINK

2855 Shenandoah • Fox Park • 314.875.9590 • visit us on facebook

Come & Celebrate the Flavors of Spring! Come and enjoy a "WOW" taste experience with owner and Chef from the French Culinary Institute in New York City. Grace Manor has a talented group of individuals who share a passion for food along with a desire to provide an enjoyable dining experience for our guests with a seasonal menu that will have you craving more. If you are looking for an intimate place to enjoy family, friends or celebration come and experience the historic and elegant charm of Grace Manor. Open for Lunch, Dinner & Sunday Brunch Farm to table, supporting local farmers.

1801 North Main Street • Edwardsville, Illinois • 618.655.0650 • 40

MARCH 2012

Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012



ame changer Story and recipes by Nate Bonner


Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

lamb is a misunderstood meat. Accused by some of being too gamey and too expensive, it often struggles for a regular place at the dinner table. But take the time to explore how different cuts and preparations bring out the luscious flavor of lamb, and you might just find it can change your mind. Lamb is raised all over the world, and both environmental and human variables affect the taste, texture and aromatic properties of the meat. Compare fattier Australian lamb to lean, grass-fed Missouri lamb, and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find they present two different experiences. And, like beef, different muscle groups yield different flavor profiles. The more commonly used muscle groups, such as the shanks, legs and shoulders, are tougher and should be slow-cooked to produce full-flavored tenderness. Cuts made up of lesser-used muscles, such as loin chops and racks, are softer by nature and can be cooked over high heat and served at a variety of donenesses. Though lamb may have a higher cost per pound, its full-bodied flavor goes a long way. Taste your way through these diverse dishes and find inspiration for introducing lamb into some of your favorite meals at home. Pictured left and above: English Lamb Loin Chops with Sweet Onion Hollandaise, recipe on p. 48

consider the source In a typical grocery store, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll mostly find lamb from Australia, New Zealand and Colorado. Australian lamb is most widely appealing because of its high fat content, subtle aromatic properties and low cost. If you want to compare the differences between sources, head to the Whole Foods Market meat counter, where a great

Lamb Empanadas with Spiced Crema, recipe on p. 48

selection of cuts can, when possible, be purchased from multiple sources. Locally raised lamb is readily available at farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; markets throughout the region; a great resource for finding local farms and where their meat is sold is Local Harvest Grocery currently carries Farrar Out Farms lamb and also takes special orders.

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Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012


lamb lingo

Legally, the term "lamb" describes the meat of a sheep under 12 months of age. The term "yearling" describes the meat of a sheep over 12 months and under 24 months. Yearling is more aromatically potent and yields more meat, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tougher in texture. The term "mutton" describes the meat of a sheep over 2 years old, and it's more gamey and tougher than yearling. Those who grew up in the baby boomer generation commonly consumed mutton that was falsely labeled as lamb, leading to the widely held misconceptions about lamb.

Moroccan Braised Lamb Shanks, recipe on p. 49

making the grade U.S. ovine (lamb, yearling and mutton) is rated with both a yield grade and a quality grade. The yield is graded 1 through 5, with 1 being the leanest meat and 5 being the fattest meat. The quality grade is the same as beef: prime, choice, good, utility and cull. Mutton can never be graded prime, and lamb and yearling cannot be graded as cull. When shopping in the supermarket, look for prime- and choice-quality grades and choose a yield grade that is appropriate for the intended preparation or your preference.

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1682 Clarkson Rd. • Chester field • 636.536.4228 •

“Clasual”- where classy atmosphere meets casual prices on The Hill. Live Music on Friday nights. St. Patrick’s Day - Corn Beef and Cabbage Specials. - Beer Pint Specials. Backyard - Beer Garden and sidewalk seating opening soon. Hours of Operation: Tuesday-Friday 11am - 1:30am, Saturday 5pm -1:30am, Sunday 5pm - Close, Monday Closed.

5800 Southwest Ave.• The Hill • 314.932.1144 •

The Needlepoint Clubhouse is a full service needlepoint shop. The largest selection of threads in Saint Louis, hand painted canvas, professional custom finishing, painting, and framing. A full selection of scissors, magnets, glasses, beads, frames, stands, stitching bags and any notion a stitcher could need or want. A large seleciton of belt canvas and standard leather belt finishing, grommet and ribbon finishing, we also do pet collars. Come in and see the new 2011 Cardinal ornament, pennant and belt canvases. Get started now before the season begins. We provide a well lit, friendly, relaxed atmosphere with tables. Stitchers can come in, sit down and enjoy an afternoon or evening. Open Monday and Wednesday 'til 7:00 for Stitch and Swirl.


Does not apply to services or special orders.

717 N. New Ballas Rd. • St. Louis, MO • 314.432.2555 • Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012


lamb recipes English Lamb Loin Chops with Sweet Onion Hollandaise This preparation of lamb chops is dressed up with rich, flavorful hollandaise. Serve with rustic mashed potatoes and butter-braised Brussels sprouts in cold-weather months or with a pea shoot and radish micro salad and a slightly chilled glass of Pinot Noir in warmer weather. Serves | 4 | English Lamb Loin Chops 4 1 tsp 2 tsp 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp

thick-cut lamb loin chops white balsamic vinegar olive oil finely chopped fresh rosemary, thyme and sage granulated garlic to taste salt and freshly ground black pepper rendered bacon fat

Sweet Onion Hollandaise 1¼ sticks

1 1 2 cloves 3 slices 1 pinch 1 splash 1 tsp 2 1 Tbsp

unsalted butter small sweet onion, minced large shallot, minced garlic, minced raw pancetta red chile flakes dry white wine white balsamic vinegar egg yolks salt and freshly ground black pepper lemon juice, to taste fresh chives, finely chopped

| Preparation – English Lamb Loin Chops | Place all ingredients except the bacon fat in a large plastic bag and refrigerate for 1 to 5 hours. Preheat a cast iron skillet over


MARCH 2012

high heat. Add bacon fat to the skillet and swirl to coat the surface evenly. The fat will smoke slightly. Add marinated lamb chops to the skillet and cook on all sides to desired doneness. Remove chops from skillet and let rest on a plate. | Preparation – Sweet Onion Hollandaise | In a small saucepot set over medium heat, melt the butter and add onion, shallot, garlic, pancetta and chile flakes. Cook until all of the natural water is evaporated from the butter (about 15 minutes), stirring occasionally to keep butter from burning. Strain the mixture and allow butter to cool slightly. In a double boiler, heat the wine and vinegar. Add the egg yolks and whisk vigorously until mixture becomes pale yellow and reaches a ribbon consistency. Remove the double-boiler bowl from heat, and whisk in the warm butter very slowly. If the mixture is thicker than you like, adjust the consistency with warm water. Season the sauce to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Finish with fresh chives. | To Serve | Plate chops individually with desired sides and spoon a few tablespoons of hollandaise over each chop.

Lamb Empanadas with Spiced Crema Empanadas are a great Mexican treat, served warm or cold as an appetizer. They can be garnished casually with the basic ingredients listed here, or you can add some flavorful flair by drizzling a small plate of empanadas with mole and topping with toasted pumpkin seeds. This four-part recipe is fun to make with friends. Give everyone a task, and it becomes a social affair. Just don’t forget the cerveza!

Serves | 4 | Empanada Filling 1 Tbsp ½ lb 1 1 2 cloves ½ tsp ½ tsp ½ tsp ½ cup

corn oil ground lamb small sweet onion, minced roasted poblano pepper, chopped garlic, minced ground coriander ground cinnamon ground cumin crumbled Queso Fresco

Empanada Pastry ½ cup

2 Tbsp ½ cup ½ cup 3 cups ½ tsp

pork lard* corn oil, plus more for frying water milk all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting salt

Spiced Crema ¾ cup ½ tsp ½ tsp 1 Tbsp

heavy cream ground cumin ground coriander chopped cilantro salt and freshly ground black pepper


sliced avocado shaved cabbage julienned tomato chopped scallions lime wedges

| Preparation – Filling | Preheat a cast iron skillet over high heat. Add the oil and immediately add the lamb. Cook until lamb is browned and crumbled (about 2 minutes).

Reduce heat to medium-high, and add the onion, poblano and garlic. Cook about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the ground spices. Adjust seasoning if needed. Allow lamb mixture to cool. Mix in the Queso Fresco.

brown. Flip once to brown both sides. You can also prepare empanadas in the oven by brushing them with a light egg wash and baking at 375ºF on a baking sheet lined with greased parchment until golden-brown.

| Preparation – Pastry | Heat the lard and corn oil to lukewarm in a frying pan. Mix the water and milk in a separate pot and heat to lukewarm. In a large mixing bowl, add the flour and salt. Alternating 2 Tbsp at a time, add the lard mixture and the milk mixture to the flour, stirring to combine between additions. Once the liquids are incorporated, work the dough in the bowl until smooth and elastic. Lightly flour a work surface and roll the dough into a large circle about 1/8-inch thick. Using a pastry wheel or cookie cutter, cut the dough into 5-inch rounds. Re-roll scraps and repeat cutting process until most of the dough is used.

| To Serve | Spoon crema onto individual plates. Arrange avocado slices on top of crema and divide empanadas among the plates. Top with cabbage, tomato and scallions. Serve with a lime wedge on the side.

| Preparation – Spiced Crema | Whip the cream until thick, being careful to stop before soft peaks form. Incorporate the spices and season to taste. | To Assemble | Place about 1 Tbsp of filling into the center of each dough round and fold each round over into a halfmoon shape. Wet the outside rim of the dough with a little water and firmly press edges together. Finish by using the tines of a fork to seal the outside of the dough and leave an imprint. | To Cook | Working in batches, pan fry the empanadas in corn oil over medium to medium-high heat until golden

* Pork lard can be found at specialty meat markets and area grocery stores, but it’s best to call ahead to ensure the store has it in stock. Morrell Snow Cap lard is recommended.

Moroccan Braised Lamb Shanks Moroccan cuisine is known for its full flavor and complex aromatics. A common component in Moroccan cooking is a tajine, a large pot with an elongated cone lid that allows steam to rise to the top of the lid and form liquid that drops back down into the pot, making the dish self-basting. You can achieve similar results using a highquality cast iron, enamel-coated braising pot with a lid, as is used in this recipe. An 8-quart Lodge pot with lid is a great choice at a low price. Serves | 4 | 1 tsp 1 tsp 1 tsp ½ tsp ½ tsp

ground cinnamon ground coriander granulated garlic allspice mace salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 1 Tbsp 3 1 5 cloves 1 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp ½ cup ½ cup 1 cup 2 cups 1 3 cups

small lamb shanks grapeseed oil small sweet onions, diced large carrot, diced garlic, minced fresh red chile, minced tomato paste quince paste minced dried Turkish apricots dried black currants Pinot Noir veal stock 28-oz can whole tomatoes, with liquid sliced scallions for garnish fresh mint for garnish fresh cilantro for garnish cooked couscous

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 300ºF. In a small bowl, combine dry spices, using liberal amounts of salt and pepper. Rub the lamb shanks with the spice mixture. Preheat a cast iron, enamel-coated pot over high heat. Add the oil and sear lamb shanks on all sides until caramelized. Transfer lamb to a plate and cover with foil. Reserve 2 Tbsp of fat in the pot. Reduce heat to mediumhigh, and add onions and carrot. Cook until tender. Add garlic, chile, tomato paste, quince paste and dried fruits. Cook 2 to 3 minutes. Deglaze the pot with the wine and cook until liquid is reduced by half. Add the stock and canned tomatoes with liquid. Bring to a simmer. Add the lamb back to the pot and cover with the lid. Transfer the pot to the oven and cook until lamb is fork-tender, up to 3 to 4 hours depending on the size of the shanks. Before serving, adjust the salt and sprinkle with sliced scallions, mint and cilantro. Serve over a bed of couscous.

P S JOIN US! Don’t miss your chance to interact directly with these professionals and mingle with your fellow food lovers.

Feast Your Eyes Sat., March 3, 12:30pm Complimentary, Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis This free program invites you into the museum for a tasting prepared in response to the exhibitions and paired with local wine and cocktails.

Chandler Hill Guest Chef Dinner with Patrick Connolly Sat., March 10, 6:30pm; Chandler Hill Vineyards $89 per person, $30 wine-pairing option; 636.798.2675 Chandler Hill is serving up a rare treat this March: a dinner by James Beard Award-winning chef Patrick Connolly.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., March 28, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $45, or 314.909.1704 Get hands-on and make the hearty feast featured on p. 38. PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012


lamb recipes Lamb and Pork Country Terrine Making terrines and pâtés at home is much easier than you think and more cost-effective than buying them from a store since the ingredients are simple. Everything you need to make this recipe can be found at your local supermarket except the pork caul fat and pork liver, which you can purchase at a butcher shop. Freshly ground meat tastes even better, so grind your own if you have a meat grinder. The rustic dish holds up to a picnic or formal dinner and goes equally well with a beer or a lush glass of Beaujolais. Serves | 4 | 1 lb ½ lb ½ lb 1 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 2 cloves ½ tsp ½ tsp ½ Tbsp ¼ cup 3 1/8 lb 1/8 lb

fatty ground pork ground lamb pork liver, cleaned and ground small sweet onion, diced fine finely minced fresh chives minced fresh parsley garlic, finely minced ground ginger curry powder salt brandy eggs pork caul fat, soaked and drained cured pork belly or bacon, cut into thin strips

| Preparation | Preheat the oven to 350ºF. In a large mixing bowl, combine everything but the caul fat and pork belly. Fry 1 Tbsp of the mixture. Taste for seasoning and adjust if needed. Line a 1½-quart gratin dish with the caul fat; the fat should hang liberally over the sides of the dish. Place the pork and lamb mixture in the dish, pressing to even out the top, and lattice the pork belly over the

mixture. Stretch the overhanging caul fat over the top of the mixture to cover completely. Place the dish on a baking sheet and bake for 30 to 50 minutes. To check for doneness, insert a wooden skewer halfway into the terrine, and if the juices run clear and the tip of the skewer is hot, you can remove the dish from the oven. The internal temperature of the terrine should be 160ºF. Refrigerate overnight. | To Serve | Keep refrigerated until ready to serve. Slice at least ½-inch thick and serve with flavorful, bitesized garnishes such as cornichons, turmeric-pickled cauliflower and grilled radishes.

Rack of Lamb with Sun-dried Tomato Chutney This impressive dish is surprisingly simple to make. It’s great served with a side of wilted baby spinach with Meyer lemon juice or linguini with butter and Parmesan. Serves | 4 | Rack of Lamb

2 2 tsp 1 Tbsp 1½ Tbsp 8 to 10

bone-in racks of lamb, frenched granulated garlic minced fresh oregano salt and freshly ground black pepper grapeseed oil large kalamata olives

Sun-dried Tomato Chutney 2 Tbsp

1 2 cloves

butter shallot, minced garlic

½ cup 1 cup

dry white wine, preferably Chenin Blanc sun-dried tomato pesto, preferably Cibo Naturals salt and freshly ground black pepper


microgreens scallions, bias-cut and soaked in ice water overnight lemon vinaigrette

| Preparation – Rack of Lamb | Preheat oven to 375ºF. Trim any excess fat from the racks and cut them down to halfracks. In a small bowl, combine garlic, oregano, salt and pepper. Rub the mixture on the half-racks. Let lamb sit at room temperature for 20 minutes. Preheat a cast iron skillet over high heat. Add oil and sear the half-racks on all sides until crispy and dark brown. Remove from heat. Add olives and place the skillet in the oven. Cook until meat reaches desired doneness (about 6 minutes for mediumrare and about 8 to 10 minutes for medium). Allow lamb to rest for at least 5 minutes before slicing. | Preparation – Sun-dried Tomato Chutney | Melt butter in a saucepan over medium heat and sweat the shallots and garlic. Add the wine and simmer until reduced by half. Stir in the pesto. Season to taste with salt and pepper. | To Serve | To slice the racks, set each half-rack on a cutting board and cut down between the bones. Follow the contour of each bone, being careful not to cut into the bone. Spoon about 2 oz of chutney on each plate and spread with the back of a spoon. Shingle the lamb over the chutney. Toss microgreens and scallions with lemon vinaigrette and place on top of lamb.

BOOK CLUB Thu., March 29, 6 to 7pm Demun Oyster Bar 720 Demun Ave., Clayton

Join us to discuss Shucked:

Life on a New England Oyster Farm by Erin Byers Murray and enjoy the delightful food and drinks of Demun Oyster Bar.

In the vein of Farm City, Pioneer Woman and Cleaved, we follow author Erin Byers Murray as she leaves her creature comforts behind to explore a more personal side of food: in this instance, the full-circle journey of oysters. Her fascinating memoir of life on a New England oyster farm is both educational and entertaining. The Feast Book Club will meet at Demun Oyster Bar this month to discuss the book and enjoy a complimentary selection of oysters and seafood hors d’oeuvres, plus drink specials. Whether you’re new to oysters or a life-long fan, this is a great opportunity to sample some new varieties and learn more from the staff at Demun Oyster Bar about these beloved bivalves.


MARCH 2012

Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012



Written by Brandi Wills


Photography by Laura Ann Miller

Although curries are ingrained in the culinary traditions of a number of Southeast Asian countries, many experts consider India to be where these beloved dishes originated. And in the United States, Indian curry powders are the most commonly used. To many people, the word “curry” signifies a hot-and-spicy dish. However, curry is a term, like masala, that means simply a blend of spices. Most Indian curry powders start with a base of spices that are fundamental to Indian cooking, including cardamom, cumin, coriander and often turmeric. From there, curries become vastly different. Some are sweet, some rich, some smoky and, yes, some can be very hot – but they are all full of incredible flavors that transform mere ingredients into incomparable dishes. Recipes for these spice blends can vary, so we are simplifying things by outlining Indian curry powders found readily on store shelves and offering tips on how to use them in your American kitchen.

of india




What’s in it: coriander (2), garlic (20), cumin (4),

What’s in it: turmeric (11), coriander (2), cumin

What’s in it: coriander (2), cumin (4), paprika (10),

ginger (8), cinnamon (5), brown mustard seed (16), red pepper (13), jalapeño (1), cardamom (6), turmeric (11), black pepper (18), cloves (9)

(4), cardamom (6), fenugreek (17), ginger (8), nutmeg (3), fennel seed (14), cinnamon (5), black pepper (18), white pepper (12), cloves (9), saffron (19), cayenne pepper (15)

garlic (20), ginger (8), cardamom (6), saffron (19) What it tastes like: This spice mix is designed

to emulate the rich, smoky flavor of dishes prepared in tandoors – barrel-shaped, highheat clay ovens popular in Indian cooking. With only ginger to add the slightest touch of heat, tandoori spice is mostly smoky thanks to plenty of cumin in the blend. Paprika lends a hint of sweetness, and saffron adds a rich complexity that helps set apart this distinct seasoning.

What it tastes like: This hot-and-spicy curry

powder exhibits a complexity of flavors, with dominant baking spices made smoky with cumin, a savory dash of garlic and slight tanginess from the mustard seed.

What it tastes like: Sweet and mild, it boasts

beautiful aromatics from heavy doses of cardamom and saffron. How to use it: This high-quality curry powder

How to use it: This spice blend is designed to

season the popular curry dish of the same name, which consists of meat (and often potatoes, though they’re not part of the traditional preparation) in a sauce flavored with garlic and an acidic liquid such as vinegar or citrus juice. Vindaloo originated in Goa, India, which was under Portuguese rule until 1961, and the meat used in traditional vindaloo dishes was influenced by the various religions practiced in the state and could include pork, lamb, chicken or duck. In American restaurants, lamb and chicken versions are most common.

comes with a higher price tag, so it’s best paired with proteins that won’t overpower the delicate and sumptuous flavors of the blend. Try it in chicken and seafood curries, or use it to flavor scrambled eggs or omelets.

How to use it: This bold blend stands up to strongly flavored meats such as lamb and beef. The most popular use for tandoori spice, however, is on chicken. Use the spice blend as a rub or mix it with yogurt for a marinade.


3 2




18 16

17 19



Garam Masala

Madras Curry

Rogan Josh

What’s in it: cumin (4), coriander (2), cardamom

What’s in it: turmeric (11), red pepper (13),

What’s in it: paprika (10), garlic (20), ginger (8),

(6), cloves (9), charnushka (black caraway) (21), nutmeg (3), cinnamon (5), black pepper (18)

fenugreek (17), cumin (4), coriander (2), cardamom (6), ginger (8), salt (7), white pepper (12)

cumin (4), coriander (2), black pepper (18), cayenne pepper (15), cinnamon (5), cardamom (6), cloves (9), saffron (19)

What it tastes like: This is a basic hot

What it tastes like: This blend offers a

curry accented by the smokiness of cumin and the delicate perfume of cardamom. The level of heat in this blend can vary by producer. If you want to control the spiciness yourself, make your own Madras curry by starting with sweet curry powder and slowly adding heat with red pepper and ginger or your preferred spicy ingredient.

moderate amount of heat, with dominant baking spices, sweetness from the paprika and a touch of smokiness from the cumin.

What it tastes like: With little to no heat in

this blend, the baking spices of cinnamon, clove and nutmeg shine and are balanced with generous doses of coriander and black pepper. How to use it: This incredibly versatile spice

blend can be used on any meat or seafood of your choice and is great on vegetables, especially potatoes. Beautifully perfumed, this blend is best sprinkled on top of dishes or mixed into curries at the end of the cooking process in order to preserve its mild flavors.

How to use it: This is your go-to blend for adding spicy curry flavor to dishes. It makes a delicious chicken curry but can also be used to create curried soups, salad dressings or dips and is a great spice rub for grilled meats and roasted vegetables.

How to use it: Rogan Josh is both a spice mix and a dish. The dish Rogan Josh is a red lamb stew that hails from Kashmir, India, and is popular in northern India and Pakistan. The stew is made with braised lamb and vegetables, spiced with this particular blend and thickened with yogurt and cream. The spice mix is made to complement the flavor of lamb, so it can also be used in other lamb dishes.


6 8


9 12

13 15



online extra Want to experience these curries before you get cooking? Check out all month long as we visit Indian eateries throughout the area and dish on their most delicious menu items.

Sakura Japanese Restaurant & Sushi bar Sakura offers only the freshest ingredients in our Sushi, prepared by chefs who have over 20 years experience. Under new management, we now offer lower prices on all of our menu items, along with weekly drink specials and 30% off sushi and dinner entrées every Monday and Tuesday. Join us on Sunday's for $1 domestic beer bottles and 25¢ Sake shots. Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11am-2:30pm, 4:30-10pm Fri. & Sat. 11am-11pm, Sun. 11am-10pm

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MARCH 2012


R E A D B Y 1 . 3 M I L L I O N A D U LT S E A C H W E E K

SUNDAY • 09.05.2010 • $1.50

Text POST-DISPATCH to 21321 or search “POST-DISPATCH” in your app store to download. Sales flyers shown are not representative of actual sales and may not be used in-store.

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Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012


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MARCH 2012

Written by Chad Michael George


Photography by Corey Woodruff

All oysters are not created equal. Though only five species of oysters are regularly consumed in America, within those species are many variations shaped by factors such as a farmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s location or through proprietary creation by the various shellfish farms. When comparing East Coast to West Coast oysters, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find that East Coast oysters are generally more briny because of higher salinity in the Atlantic Ocean than that in the Pacific Ocean. In addition, warmer waters often inspire larger, less firm oysters, while cooler waters spawn smooth, sweet and creamy flavors.


Shot on location at Demun Oyster Bar

When pairing drinks with food, you can either choose a drink that complements the flavors of the food or one that contrasts them. Beer is a complementary pairing to oysters, especially a creamy porter or stout or a hoppy IPA that brings out the saltiness of the oyster. The traditional pairing of Champagne and oysters is a contrasting combination. A glass of bubbly acts as a palate cleanser, priming your taste buds to fully experience the unique nuances of the next round of oysters. We offer both options here for you to explore which pairing strategy you like best.

West Coast OYSTERS Counterclockwise from top left



Provenance: British Columbia and

Humboldt Bay, Calif. Tasting notes: Small and ultra-sweet with

strong melon flavor and a firm texture Pair with: An intense, chocolate-heavy stout or a mineral-rich and dry rosé Beer: Perennial Artisan Ales’ Abraxas Bubbly: Lucien Albrecht Cremant d’Alsace Brut Rosé


Otter Cove

Provenance: Discovery Bay, Wash. Tasting notes: Small to medium in size and

firm with a touch of brine and a mouthful of buttery sweetness Pair with: An earthy, chocolate-heavy imperial stout or a smooth and balanced Prosecco Beer: 2nd Shift Brewery’s Liquid Spiritual Delight (LSD) Bubbly: Adami Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut Bosco di Gica



Provenance: Humboldt Bay, Calif. Tasting notes: Small and firm, slightly salty

and beautifully sweet with hints of melon and cucumber Pair with: A creamy dry Irish stout or a dry but fruit-forward bubbly Beer: Murphy’s Irish Stout Bubbly: Gruet Brut Rosé


Fish Point

Provenance: Belingham Bay, Wash. Tasting notes: A moderately briny oyster

with a firm texture and a slightly sweet finish Pair with: A balanced and brilliant stout or a

sparkling wine with good citrus Beer: Shipyard Brewing Co.’s Blue Fin Stout Bubbly: Bellavista Franciacorta Cuvée Brut


Penn Cove Select

Provenance: Penn Cove, Wash. Tasting notes: A brightly briny, firm and clean

oyster with a smooth finish Pair with: A smooth and sexy brown ale or a

yeasty and fruit-forward bubbly Beer: The Civil Life Brewing Co.’s American Brown Bubbly: Gaston Chiquet Brut Sélection


Gold Creek

Provenance: Puget Sound, Wash. Tasting notes: Large and deep-cupped oyster

dominated by brininess with a touch of melon Pair with: A honey-sweet hoppy brew or a

bubbly with a touch of fruity sweetness Beer: Bell’s Two Hearted Ale Bubbly: Freixenet Elyssia Rosé Cava

East Coast OYSTERS Clockwise from top right


Jupiter Point

Provenance: Noank, Conn. Tasting notes: Highly briny with a touch

of sweetness on the finish and good firm texture Pair with: A hop-heavy beer or a slightly sweet bubbly Beer: O’Fallon Brewery’s 5-Day IPA Bubbly: Moët & Chandon Nectar Imperial Champagne


Cavendish Cup

Provenance: Prince Edward Island,

Nova Scotia Tasting notes: A large oyster with a full

and firm texture and bright, almost citrus-like brininess Pair with: A hoppy beer to balance the saltiness or a slightly sweet wine Beer: SKA Brewing Co.’s Modus Hoperandi Bubbly: Codorníu Pinot Noir Rosé


Flat (aka Belon)

Provenance: Harpswell, Maine Tasting notes: Very briny, with a strong

mineral flavor and a pleasant metallic note Pair with: An English pale ale with good

citrus notes or a dry, crisp and fruity sparkling Beer: Black Sheep Ale Bubbly: Schramsburg Blanc de Blancs


Blackberry Point

Provenance: Prince Edward Island,

Nova Scotia Tasting notes: Mild sweetness, with a plump

and firm texture and medium to high salinity Pair with: A smooth and silky stout or an

earthy yet bright bubbly Beer: The Porterhouse Brewing Co.’s Oyster Stout Bubbly: Charles Bove Brut



Provenance: Cape Cod, Mass. Tasting notes: A balanced level of sweetness

and salinity with a crisp and clean finish Pair with: A sweet and velvety beer or a dry,

crisp, citrus-heavy bubbly Beer: Schlafly Oatmeal Stout Bubbly: Marques de Gelida Brut Cava


Island Creek

Provenance: Duxbury Bay, Mass. Tasting notes: Buttery and slightly briny,

amazingly sweet with a firm and mossy texture Pair with: A bold and silky stout or an ultra-dry

and crisp sparkling Beer: Guinness Extra Stout Bubbly: Nino Franco Rustico

Dress ‘EM UP! Serve up your own combination of oysters at home (see p. 36 for a shucking how-to), and make these classic condiments to enhance the experience.


Demun Oyster Bar Cocktail Sauce

Champagne Mignonette Granité

By Brendan Hickham, Demun Oyster Bar

By Brendan Hickham, Demun Oyster Bar

Yield | 1 pint |

Yield | 1 quart |

2 cups ¼ cup ½ tsp 1 tsp ½ tsp 2 tsp 1 1 tsp

½ cup 2 Tbsp 1½ cups 1 cup 1 cup 3 Tbsp

ketchup freshly grated horseradish Tabasco sauce Worcestershire sauce soy sauce honey lemon, juiced freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation | Combine all ingredients in a medium mixing bowl, and whisk until well-incorporated. Adjust the amount of horseradish to taste. Serve chilled.

finely minced shallots lemon juice Champagne or sparkling wine Champagne vinegar red wine vinegar honey

| Preparation | Combine all ingredients in a large mixing bowl, and whisk until well-incorporated. Pour mixture into a wide baking pan, and place in freezer. Using a fork, agitate the mixture occasionally to keep the shallots from sinking to the bottom and to encourage ice crystals to form properly. Continue until completely frozen. Once mixture is frozen, scrape across the surface of the mixture with fork tines to create shavings. Serve directly on top of oysters.


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Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012


mixing things up Written by Matt Seiter | Photography by Jonathan Gayman

Fleur L’Orange

By DENISE Mueller, The Wine Tap

My base spirit is Four Roses Single Barrel bourbon. I love it for its flavor but also for its history. It was one of the few distilleries granted permission to continue operations during Prohibition for “medicinal purposes.” Recently a server asked me to make him a drink strong enough that he only needed one. This is what he got. Serves | 1 | 1¾ oz ½ oz 2 dashes 1 oz

Four Roses Single Barrel bourbon Grand Marnier Regan’s Orange Bitters No. 6 simple syrup orange twist for garnish

| Preparation | Combine all liquids in a mixing glass and add ice. Stir for 10 seconds and strain. Serve straight up in a coupe or over ice cubes in an old-fashioned glass. Garnish with an orange twist.

Everything’s Coming Up Roses

By Jamie Kilgore, Niche

This cocktail is dear to me because it combines three of my favorite things to drink in any cocktail: bourbon, lemon juice and sparkling wine! Serves | 1 | 1½ oz ½ oz ½ oz

Four Roses Yellow Label bourbon cassis liqueur lemon juice sparkling dry rosé lemon twist for garnish

| Preparation | Combine bourbon, cassis liqueur and lemon juice in a shaker with ice. Shake vigorously, then fine strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Top with rosé and garnish with a lemon twist.

What do we know about the true origins of the modern bartender? We bar geeks can tell you about Jerry Thomas, the Babe Ruth of modern bartending. We can recite recipes from the mid-1800s that are still commonplace today. And we can rattle off endless facts about classic ingredients. Although most of the mixologists attracting attention these days for their crafty creations are men, bartending owes its roots to women. Owners of the first few modern drinking establishments used their daughters and nieces to pour drinks. Sure, a bar was a “man’s place.” But what better way to keep the men coming back than to have a comely maiden serving their drinks? As these women worked to build the country’s collective drinking culture, the result of their hard work eventually forced them out from behind the bar.


ons led to More patr e need for wds and th ro c d y d w ro rowds. An with said c l a e d n. to m ver by e bartenders lly taken o ra e n e g s g wa bartendin uis has ow. St. Lo n is is th nd ce as then, a ho influen But that w ologists w ix m le a h wit any fem sat down a great m ulture. We c g ds, in k n ri tr d rrent en our local to talk cu n e m o w e te es sta some of th s and the tail recipe k c o c te ri es. favo y’s sipperi of our cit

By Lindsay Baker, Sanctuaria

I noticed the Averna was collecting dust, so I set out to make a cocktail that uses it. I pair it with rum because rum’s natural sweetness is a great foil to Averna’s bitterness. “Rombustion” literally means a strong liquid and is also thought to be one of the possible origins for the word “rum.” Serves | 1 | 1½ oz 1 oz ½ oz ¼ oz 2 dashes

Angostura 7-year Rum Averna Amaro Benedictine Cynar Angostura bitters orange twist for garnish

| Preparation | Combine all liquids in a mixing glass. Add cracked and cubed ice. Stir for 30 seconds and fine strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with an orange twist.

Little Star

By Mel James, BC’s Kitchen

This was the first cocktail I ever created, so it’s very dear to my heart. Serves | 1 | 2 slices 2 slices 1 pinch 1 oz 1 oz 1 oz ½ oz

star fruit cucumber kosher salt Don Q. Cristal Don Q. Añejo pineapple juice Don Q. Gold thinly sliced star fruit and cucumber for garnish

| Preparation | In a mixing glass, muddle the star fruit, cucumber and kosher salt. Add ice, Don Q. Cristal, Don Q. Añejo and pineapple juice and shake well to combine. Fine strain into a chilled martini glass or coupe and finish with a float of the Don Q. Gold. Garnish with star fruit and cucumber.



The Wine Tap; The Court of Master Sommeliers, Level 1

What is your go-to base spirit and why? Bourbon. I believe it’s due to my “Rat Pack”-esque grandparents, but that generation really knew how to do it up. If I can serve a Manhattan to a 70-year-old, well-dressed man and he says, “Damn, that’s good,” I feel I did something stellar. I like that bourbon can be great on its own – sometimes smooth, sometimes oaky, sometimes spicy – or it can meld well with liqueurs, citrus, bitters, etc. Is there a difference between bartending in Illinois and Missouri? If you ask your wine rep in Illinois why he’s out of a particular wine or why you can’t get a particular case, his answer is: “Chicago has it. Sorry.” In Illinois, Chicago has the holding power. In Missouri, St. Louis is the big city. I’ve had bars in St. Louis order one bottle of wine for me and have it arrive wearing a big red bow the next morning. When I asked how that was possible, they said: “We’re in Missouri. Anything is possible with no Chicago.” The trick to fixing this “big-city” situation is to have good relationships with your reps and their immediate superiors. You scratch their backs, and they’ll be there for you in a bind. But more important is having a relationship with the winemakers. Call the winery, say you’re very interested in their product and what your presumed sell-through would be, and ask them how to get it to southern Illinois. Most of the time, it will be through a boutique distributor in Chicago, which will ship it to one of your reps. Now you have covered both ends, and you’re getting that case you wanted.

lindsay Sanctuaria; Member of USBG, Certified Spirits Specialist


What liqueur or spirit do you want to see available in St. Louis that currently is not available? Living in New York, I had access to a broader spectrum of available spirits. But what I miss most is a handful of New York and Massachusetts distilleries: Finger Lakes Distilling, Tuthilltown Spirits, Berkshire Mountain Distillers, D.H. Krahn, Harvest Spirits and LiV [Long Island Spirits], to name a few. Where do you go for a drink when you’re not working? Taste in the Central West End for great cocktails, conversation and usually an education. Or I-Tap [International Tap House] in Soulard to satisfy my Belgian beer cravings. Also, I raid my personal bar at home. It’s pretty damn wellstocked, in my opinion.


MARCH 2012

jamie Kilgore

Niche; Member of the United States Bartenders’ Guild, BarSmart- certified Describe your style of bartending. My bartending style is like that of a hostess. Every night, I treat my bar like it’s a party at my house. As any good hostess would do, I make my guests feel welcome and comfortable. I strive to anticipate their needs and give them a well-rounded, enjoyable experience. And, of course, I use only quality ingredients. What emerging trends in cocktails are you seeing? On a national scope, cocktails over the last few years have been very science-y and pushing the envelope – barrel-aged cocktails, cocktails on tap, edible cocktails, etc. I think the new trend is more of an anti-trend; it’s an approach that says cocktails can be delicious without being gimmicky. I’ve always just tried to make really great cocktails without worrying too much about social trends. The Skinnygirl Cocktails Margarita you find on the store shelves is nothing more than the original margarita recipe, after all. Where do you go for a drink when you’re not working? Taste is my No. 1 choice; I’ve got a huge crush on the head bartender [her husband, Ted Kilgore]. I also love Sanctuaria, Blood & Sand and Monarch.



BC’s Kitchen; Member of USBG, BarSmarts-certified How did you get into bartending, and why have you chosen this career? About five years into my 12-year tenure at McGurk’s Public House in O’Fallon, I was put behind the bar on St. Patrick’s Day because someone had called in sick. I was a server at the time and had never bartended before. Talk about a total shock to the system, having to learn everything on St. Patrick’s Day at an Irish pub. One 14-hour brutal shift and a body beat up so badly I couldn’t walk upright for two days, and I had the basics down. I was in love. It was then my dear friend Charlie Myers took me under his wing at McGurk’s, something I appreciate immensely. What is your go-to base spirit and why? Gin, hands down. I don’t think people realize how diverse gin really is because they’re not exposed to it as aggressively as, say, a flavored vodka or a spiced rum. If you don’t care for gin, at least try a few different brands before giving up completely. One may have juniper as the primary profile, while another will have cucumber. And I’ll take any chance I can get to talk to an indecisive young person about an Aviation or a Last Word and take baby steps from there. I enjoy educating people on the history of the classics. Most people don’t realize that their favorite contemporary drink of choice was most likely derived from one created in 1860 or 1900, for example. How would you describe the local bar and cocktail scene to someone outside of St. Louis? I would first note that when you come to St. Louis and turn on a faucet, Budweiser does not come out of the taps. We have so much more to offer that is created here. A lot of bartenders are using locally harvested and organic ingredients for their cocktails as well. I know that isn’t reinventing the wheel, but it’s a pretty conscious way to show your customers that you value them by giving them the very best. In a nutshell, I’d describe the scene as forward-thinking, constantly evolving, humble, respected ... and one hell of a good time.

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MARCH 2012


more mixes...

Moral Support

By jayne pellegrino, Blood & Sand

I wish I could say there’s an epic story that birthed this cocktail, but there’s not. Simply, a scowling older gentleman, a first timer, muttered: “Boozy. Bourbon. Best be delicious.” And the Moral Support was born. Now this grinning, “Jayne, why’s this glass always empty?” patron tells me this is officially his drink. Serves | 1 | 1½ oz ½ oz ¾ oz ½ oz 2 to 3 dashes

bourbon (preferably Buffalo Trace) cognac Cardamaro port Bittercube Cherry Bark Vanilla Bitters sweet marinated cherry for garnish orange zest for garnish

| Preparation | Combine all liquids in a mixing glass. Add cracked and cubed ice. Stir for 30 seconds and fine strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a sweet marinated cherry and orange zest.

Shaw Boulevard Fizz

By shannon ponche, Taste

This cocktail was inspired by an unfortunate homemade ginger beer explosion at my friend George’s apartment. Serves | 1 | 2 oz ½ oz ¼ oz ¾ oz 1 1 slice

North Shore Distiller’s Gin No. 6 lemon juice grapefruit juice honey syrup egg white ginger beer grapefruit for garnish

| Preparation | Combine all ingredients except ginger beer and grapefruit slice in a shaker. Dry shake and then add ice. Shake vigorously for 15 seconds and strain into an ice-filled Collins glass. Top with ginger beer and garnish with grapefruit slice.

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By Layla linehan, Demun Oyster Bar

I invented this cocktail last May for my bartender friend T.J. Vytlacil. As with many of the cocktails I conjure up, it was a spur-of-the-moment, offthe-cuff recipe, and it just worked. This boozy cocktail is a night starter or ender. More than one of these will really catch up to you. Serves | 1 | 1½ oz 1 oz ½ oz ½ oz ¼ oz 2 dashes

Black Maple Hill bourbon Cocchi Americano Calvados Gran Classico Bitter liqueur Campari Bar Keep Baked Apple bitters Luxardo cherry for garnish

| Preparation | Combine all liquids in a mixing glass. Add cubed ice. Stir for 30 seconds and fine strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a Luxardo cherry.

Cucuy’s Coffee

By angie cornish, Diablitos

I learned how to make Spanish coffees at My Father’s Place in Portland, Ore. I added coffee-infused tequila and horchata to the original recipe. Serves | 1 | ¼ oz 3 dashes 3 dashes ½ oz ½ oz ½ oz ½ oz

granulated sugar Bacardi 151 ground nutmeg, plus more for garnish ground cinnamon, plus more for garnish Kahlúa Crème de Cocoa horchata, preferably homemade coffee-infused tequila brewed coffee whipped cream for garnish

| Preparation | Rim an Irish-coffee glass with sugar. Add the Bacardi 151 to the bottom of the glass. Ignite the rum with a fireplace lighter and roll the flaming rum up to the sugared rim to slightly caramelize the sugar. Shake nutmeg and cinnamon into the flame to toast the spices. Add the Kahlúa through tequila. Top with brewed coffee. Garnish with whipped cream, and sprinkle with more nutmeg and cinnamon.



Blood & Sand; Member of USBG, BarSmarts-certified

What emerging trends in cocktails are you seeing? I continue to see the re-emergence of preProhibition cocktails. However, I’ve recently noticed a considerable trend among bartenders toward experimentation and customization – from housemade bitters to herbal infusions to barrel aging spirits other than wine or whiskey to variations on ingredients (bacon-popcorn simple syrup, anyone?) to new consistencies (using n20 canisters to make espuma-topped drinks). There has been an explosion of experimentation and creativity, which I love – as long as you can still make me a Sazerac. And I’ve also noticed more bars making shelf room for mezcal. So I’d watch for the spotlight to be heading its way. How would you describe the local bar and cocktail scene to someone outside of St. Louis? Seek and you shall find. As someone who has lived outside of St. Louis, it’s fair [for me] to say that this is a fairly diverse scene, especially for [the city’s] size. There are many options to suit one’s fancy: wine bars, pubs, dive bars, cocktail clubs, sports bars, cigar bars, martini bars, karaoke bars and brew pubs. Year by year, the scene is broadening its horizons, and we continue to see great establishments popping up in St. Louis. What are your thoughts on the drinking culture in St. Louis, and how are you working to enhance it? In a word, evolving. There have been a number of bars in St. Louis, some perhaps more than others, that help broaden and educate people’s palates and concepts of what a cocktail is. People are becoming more aware of the craftsmanship behind a quality-constructed cocktail. But more importantly, they’re tasting it. More and more of my patrons have come to know and enjoy spirits they “don’t drink,” “know they hate” or were previously unaware of. To further enhance our drinking culture, I continue to grow and learn and experiment, and I should if I expect the same from my patrons.

shannon Taste; Member of USBG and The Museum of the American Cocktail


What liqueur or spirit do you want to see available in St. Louis that currently is not available? I would love it if Bols Genever would come to St. Louis. It’s a gin that drinks like a whiskey and makes a great Old Fashioned. What emerging trends in cocktails are you seeing? Room-temperature cocktails are an interesting trend. They are more aromatic; the spirits show off a little more when they aren’t chilled. Plus barrel aging and cocktails on tap are trending right now. You can find cocktails on tap at Sanctuaria. They are made with the same ingredients as any cocktail that’s made to order. The only difference is in the delivery.






Demun Oyster Bar; Member of USBG

What are your thoughts on the current drinking culture in St. Louis, and how are you working to enhance it? I think our drinking culture has taken great strides forward in the last few years as far as the cocktail scene goes. I also realize that we live in a community where people like what they like, and it’s not that easy to convince them otherwise. But to me, that’s OK. If people want to drink a Bud Light, then it’s our job to serve them one or direct them toward something similar to please them. As a bartender, it’s not my job to tell someone what he or she should like. We should provide options to push the culture forward but should always remember that sometimes people just want a vodka tonic. Or in my case, a Budweiser and a shot of whiskey. If you could open any type of bar in St. Louis, what would it be like? Concept is less important than the people you’re able to attract. I would love to open a bar that is staffed with smart, personable, interesting people. A place where people from all walks of life can coexist and enjoy each other. The type of place that has regulars who drive out of their way just to see us. I’m lucky enough to work at a place like this, and it makes this career a great one. We don’t have enough places where everyone can feel like this bar is “their bar.”


MARCH 2012

How did you get into bartending, and why have you chosen this career? I waited tables at a bar and restaurant called My Father’s Place in Portland, Ore. They had an opening at the bar and promoted me to bartender. It was a very high-volume bar, and I was put on weekend nights with a girl named Anna Hassenpflug. It was a crazy-busy dive bar, but she always took the time to make quality cocktails. And I could tell she loved what she did. She was also the first person to expose me to infusing spirits. I chose this as a career when I realized there isn’t much of a future for an art teacher in a flailing economy, and people always like to drink, even in a recession. Also, working for Dr. Gurpreet Padda and Ami Grimes has given me an outlet for my creativity. They allow me to paint murals on the walls and help with decisions involving aesthetics. It’s a win-win situation. If you could open any type of bar in St. Louis, what would it be like? What types of bars are missing from the local scene? For some time now, I’ve been wanting to open a bar called The Classy Beaver. I want to turn the patio into a re-creation of the Ewok village with some treehouses and make the inside look like the inside of a tree. The style would be similar to an English pub with a dartboard and a pool table. It’s ridiculous, I know. Plus, George Lucas and his people would probably sue me.

Our Readers’ 50 Food Faves


Tell us what’s so great about food in St. Louis! In our anniversary issue (August 2012) we’ll be celebrating all the things that make St. Louis a flavorful place to call home. The FEAST 50 will present our readers’ favorite dishes to prepare at home, which restaurants you love and your most treasured St. Louis food memories.

So share your thoughts and opinions with us! Send your faves to The best stories, ideas, tips and recipes will become part of the FEAST 50, a reader-inspired tribute to St. Louis’ love of food.

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Inspired Food Culture

MARCH 2012



Bill Barker President, Devil’s Breath Chile Co. written by Pat Eby

Five years ago, Bill Barker was an unemployed house painter in Broughton, Ill., with a penchant for hot peppers and too much time on his hands. “I figured I’d make my hot sauce, as a sideline, to bring in a little money,” says Barker. The sideline exploded into a full-time business, and Barker has since expanded his offerings to include four spicy condiments. “Now I’ve got the world’s best job.” Barker tastes, talks and sells products using the 12 varieties of peppers that he grows. “I choose peppers by where the heat hits,” Barker says. “It starts on the tip of your tongue, then builds to the back of your throat. That’s what I’m looking for. Intense flavor.”

Photography by J. Pollack Photography

After finding success with his hot sauce, he added chile relish, available in hot or mild, to the lineup. His latest product and current best-seller, bread and butter jalapeños, delivers sweet, smoky and hot flavors to everything from corn bread to pulled pork. Another offering, Werewolf Everything Sauce, started as a mistake. “I messed up and mixed a hot sauce recipe with a glaze,” Barker says. “I was so mad, I put up two bottles and set it aside. One night I was having sauerkraut and sausage for dinner, which I don’t much like. I grabbed one of those bottles. That first sauce was pure evil for heat, but the flavor was incredible.” He toned down the heat a bit and had a hit on his hands.

THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOTTLE Werewolf Apple Pie By BILL BARKER, Devil’s Breath Chile Co.

For an apple pie like Mom never made, try Bill Barker’s riff on the American classic. This recipe includes more cinnamon and nutmeg than usual plus a flavorful secret ingredient: Werewolf Everything Sauce. Yield | one 9-inch pie |

1½ cups sugar ½ cup 1 tsp 1 tsp 12 cups ¼ cup 2 2 Tbsp

flour nutmeg cinnamon peeled and thinly sliced apples Werewolf Everything Sauce prepared pie crusts unsalted butter, cut into cubes

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 425ºF, or 400ºF if using a glass pie pan. In a large mixing bowl, combine sugar, flour, nutmeg and cinnamon. Stir in apples and Werewolf Everything Sauce. Press bottom crust into a 9-inch pie pan. Fill with apple mixture and dot with butter. Cover with the top crust, sealing and fluting edges. Cut slits in top crust to allow steam to escape. Bake until juice begins to bubble through slits, about 1 hour. Remove from oven and let cool on a rack. Serve slightly warm.


MARCH 2012

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Stock#'s k#'s 91130, 911300, 911322



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15736 Manchester at Clarkson Rd. • (636) 391-9400 • 800-367-2289

*24 mo. lease -10,000 miles per year. Tax, title, license, acquisition fee extra. $2,995 down cash or trade. First payment due at signing Includes lease loyalty for qualified buyers. **Based On 2011 Sales Summary Infiniti Motor Division, Nissan North America.

March 2012 FEAST Magazine  
March 2012 FEAST Magazine  

FEAST Magazine delves into St. Louis' culinary scene for inspired ideas in cooking, the latest on restaurants, great gadgets, kitchen design...