March 2011 FEAST Magazine

farm to table

WINSLOW’S HOME

seasonal savory tarts

sip this, eat that

SPRING GREENS dark beer pairings

Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis

feastSTL.com / MAR CH 2011 / FR EE

PUT SOME SPRING IN YOUR STEP

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home again:

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GREG RANNELLS

56 A Farm-to-Table Tale

winslow’s home farm

From the to its beloved U. City outpost, we’ve fallen captive to its charm.

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a savory slice of

spring MARCH 2011

from the staff

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Check out this month’s online content.

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from the PUBLISHER

Spring has sprung!

-UP P O P prod 67

| 14 | FEAST FAVES This month’s inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis.

COLUMNS

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my stuff

Find out where 33 Wine Shop’s Jeff Stettner stashes his personal collection.

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gadget a-go-go

We put five herb keepers to the test.

e uc

| 32 | ON THE SHELF

New and notable in beer, wine and spirits.

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mystery shopper

Buy it and try it: kholrabi.

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the cheat

Can you make full-flavored lobster bisque using just lobster tails?

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deconstructed dishes

An exotic sweet treat: Indian rice pudding.

| 74 | pull up a chair

Follow the twists and turns of the Gehry Hat Trick Side Chair.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY of a rooster at the winslow’s home farm (PAGE 56)

BY Greg

Rannells

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Magazine Volume 2 / Issue 3 / March 2011 Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor Brandi Wills Online Editor Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Triefenbach Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editor Andrea Mongler Proofreader Erin Callier Contributing Writers Erin Callier, Russ Carr, Heidi Dean, Pat Eby, Chad Michael George Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson, Angela Ortmann Barbara E. Stefàno, Michael Sweeney, Cassandra Vires Contributing Photographers Geoff Cardin, Ashley Gieseking, Rob Grimm, Tuan Lee Laura Miller, Jonathan Pollack, Greg Rannells Jennifer Silverberg, Carmen Trosser Contact Us Feast Media, 14522 S. Outer Forty Road Town & Country, MO 63017 Fax: 314.657.3347 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Donna Bischoff, 314.340.8529 ads@feastSTL.com Courtney Barczewski, 314.340.8525 Rich Shelton, 314.340.8514 Editorial Comments editor@feastSTL.com Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2011 by Feast Magazine™.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC A Lee Enterprises Company 8

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ONLINE CONTENT

STL .CO M ONLINE EXCLUSives

> THIS MONTH’S FEAST > WATCH & LISTEN > BLOG > feast events > RECIPES

shop girl

SHOP GIRL Ready to get your green thumb out of those gloves and into the soil?

Shop Girl Heidi Dean heads to local garden stores this spring to bring you top growing goods. First stop: the Missouri Botanical Garden’s Garden Gate Shop.

DESIGN BITES Quite the Pair Dinner & A Show Travelogue

Photography by J. Pollack Photography

Interact with FEAST

Connect with us at facebook.com/feastSTL for daily recipes, cooking demo videos, culinary news and behind-the-scenes photos.

Photography by Laura Miller

MORE RECIPES: Love recipes? Visit feastSTL.com every Wednesday for a bonus FEAST recipe featured in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch’s Let’s Eat section. Stay tuned for stuffed heirloom vegetables (pictured) from local chef Angela Komis and Schlafly Bottleworks chef Matt Bessler’s garden salsa!

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COOKING DEMO: Who says lobster bisque has to be difficult? Definitely not chef Cassandra Vires! Follow step-bystep through her simplified – yet wonderfully decadent – cheat in this month’s how-to cooking video. Get the recipe on page 36, and be sure to visit feastSTL.com for other demos by Vires.

Follow us at twitter.com/feastmag for up-tothe-minute restaurant news, special deals, FEAST events and more.

enewsletter Get weekly updates & exclusive recipes.

Sign up at feastSTL.com

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

N

one of the other photos had a chance. Once we saw that rooster strutting his stuff, we were sold.

He had to be on the cover.

And about that rooster. Many of you have likely popped into Winslow’s Home and wandered through this general store/ wine shop/grocery store/ restaurant and wondered what inspired that singular rustic-yetmodern approach. This month we take you inside Winslow’s Home – the storefront in U. City and the farm near Augusta – and find out what makes this place tick. I can tell you one thing: After reading Barb Stefàno’s profile and seeing those beautiful shots by Greg Rannells, I hope more folks create and nurture a connection between urban sophistication and rural bounty.

Until next time,

PS

FEAST EVENTS

Feast Your Eyes CAM Nights: Third Thursdays Thu., March 17, 6pm, Contemporary Art Museum Complimentary, cash bar

Celebrate the intersection of food and art at Feast Your Eyes. Watch Sanctuaria’s Chris Lee and Robust’s Eric Brenner cook while you sip hand-crafted Belgian beer and mingle with fellow art lovers. This is the perfect opportunity to enjoy CAM’s current shows: Manon de Boer: Between Perception and Sensation and Richard Aldrich and the 19th Century French Painting.

Wine Tasting Thu., March 17, 6pm, The Schlafly Tap Room Complimentary, rsvp@stlwinegirl.com

Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a wine and beer tasting at The Schlafly Tap Room.

Cooking Class Wed., March 23, 6pm, Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $40/person, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Whip up your own Indian buffet at this month’s Schnucks class. Lamb vindaloo, garlic naan and a sweet rice pudding are just a few of the classic Indian eats you’ll make in this hands-on class.

Cooking Demo Tue., March 29, 6:30pm, L’Ecole Culinaire $40/person, 314.587.2433

There’s no denying St. Louis’ love of beer.

At this month’s L’Ecole class, chef-instructor Matt Borchardt will lead a spirited cooking demonstration and show you all of the tasty ways you can incorporate beer into your home cooking.

Cat’s Picks Wednesdays, 8:35am, The BIG 550 KTRS

Tune in as FEAST publisher Catherine Neville chats with host McGraw Milhaven and gives her weekly picks for the best places to eat and drink in the St. Louis area.

Catherine Neville

feedback?

catherine@feaststl.com

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PHOTOGRAPHy by Tuan Lee

After an interminable number of snowy days and frigid nights, it’s a relief to know that spring arrives this month. And to celebrate the end of winter, our March issue is brimming with the flavor of early spring. Those of you with green thumbs are surely itching to get planting and we have veggie suggestions from Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds that will jazz up this year’s backyard harvest. Home cooks that are eagerly anticipating the arrival of spring’s first greens should turn to page 42. Chef Cassy Vires has creative (radish-leaf pesto!) and easy tart recipes that highlight the delicate nature of just-picked produce. All you beer lovers out there will enjoy Mike Sweeney’s take on what pub-grub pairs best with dark beer.

(To find out what dish is Sweeney’s idea of heaven, turn to page 55).

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FEAST FAVES / where we’re dining

Oak Barrel

American Bistro & Artisan Bakery 636.329.8250 O’Fallon, MO.

When chef-owner Todd Kussman took the helm at what was formerly the French Gourmet Bakery, he envisioned adding an evening-only bistro to round out the popular bakery’s breakfast and lunch service. His casual new bistro serves solid American dishes that lean heavily toward comfort food. Upon entering, European-style pastries gleam in the bakery cases as an indication that you should order dessert. Start with a charcuterie plate and a salad – we like the Rustic Salad with roasted yellow beets, sunflower seeds and carrot flan. Freshmade linguine with shrimp, guanciale and veggies is a good choice, but even better is the chicken pot pie with perfectly tender crust or the braised short ribs with celery root-sweet potato purée. And dessert … the molten chocolate cake is great, but the stand-out is the Oak Barrel bread pudding with crème anglaise. Using croissants and pastries from the bakery as its base, this bread pudding has the absolute perfect texture. A comforting end to a comforting meal.

957 Waterbury Falls Dr., O’Fallon, Mo. oakbarrelbistro.com

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A m eri can B i str o & A rt i sa n Ba k e ry

PHOTOGRAPHy by Geoff Cardin

Oak Barrel

FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient

Demi-glace

PHOTOGRAPHy by Geoff Cardin

What’s the secret to creating deeply rich sauces? Demiglace. This French classic is key to the can’tBistro make-it-at-home 1130 nuance that defines restaurant-quality 636.394.1130 flavor. At Bistro 1130, Town & Country the fare is decidedly French, so where better to seek traditional demiglace, which means “half-glaze” due to its incredibly thick texture. A true demi-glace requires hours and hours of low, slow reduction and offers a flavor that has no substitute, as you can clearly taste when you drag your first bite of filet mignon with Gorgonzola and spinach through the Chateaux Margaux demi-glace drizzled on the plate.

FIlet mignon with Chateaux Margaux demi-glace

1130 Town & Country Dr., Town & Country bistro1130.com

FEAST FAVES / At home

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LARGECAPACITY STOCK POTS

| 1 | Vasconia 21-quart enamel stockpot, $29.99; Target, multiple locations, target.com | 2 | Crate & Barrel

12-quart stockpot, $59.95; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com | 3 | Le Creuset 12-quart stock pot, $99.99; Macy’s, multiple locations, macys.com Inspired Food Culture

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FEAST FAVES / FOOD STUFF

‘KRAUT Meaty March dishes call for that favorite tangy topping: sauerkraut. These three options offer different flavor profiles to complement whatever you’re cooking up.

flavor: garlicky

flavor: bold and briny

flavor: clean and mild

| 1 | Bubbies sauerkraut, $6.99; Straub’s Markets, multiple locations, straubs.com | 2 | Flanagan Krrrrisp Kraut, $1.59; Global Foods Market, 421 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, globalfoodsmarket.com | 3 | Eden Organic sauerkraut, $4.39; Whole Foods Market, multiple locations, wholefoodsmarket.com PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Miller 16

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FEAST FAVES / where we’re dining

Harvest 314.645.3522

PHOTOGRAPHy by Geoff Cardin

Richmond Heights

Harvest Each dish that emerges from Harvest’s bustling kitchen is impeccably balanced. Not by the warm, informative service staff but by the well-loved restaurant’s chefs. Foie gras is well-salted and seared to crispness outside with a yielding, unctuous texture within. The liver’s richness is perfectly offset by a tart Bing cherry gastrique.

A winter-greens salad gets fruity nuance and a pop of color courtesy of goji berries. Gnudi (ravioli filling minus the pasta) arrives as perfectly firm

spheres bathed in an herbed lemon butter sauce, the richness tempered by the spicy bite of raw arugula. From duck breast to steaks to barramundi to one of the restaurant’s healthy Spa selections, a focus on quality and casual sophistication reigns at Harvest, a St. Louis favorite now owned and operated by longtime chef Nick Miller.

1059 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights harveststlouis.com Inspired Food Culture

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FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES / What We’re buyin g

INDUCTION BURNERS

With superior heating times, incredible precision and optimal safety, these burners are super cool.

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| 1 | Waring Pro induction cooktop, $169; waringwebstore.com

| 2 | Fagor digital portable induction burner, $199.95; Sur La Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable. com | 3 | Infinite Circulon portable

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induction burner, $249.99; Bed Bath & Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com | 4 | Caso C21 induction burner, $349.95; Williams-Sonoma, multiple locations, williams-sonoma.com | 5 | Wolfgang

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Puck induction cooker, $99.99; Bed Bath & Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com

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FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES / THE DISH

Labeebee’s Mid-East Cafe 314.773.1200

PHOTOGRAPHy by Geoff Cardin

Lemp-Cherokee District

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Labeebee’s baba ghanoush – roasted eggplant mashed with tahini, garlic and spices – is delicious slathered on the restaurant’s thin, slightly sweet pita. But we love it when chefs gild the lily a bit, and here you can get your baba ghanoush (or the hummus, if you’d like) topped with an array of “house favorites.” Try the Cherokee Street version with cilantro pesto and chile powder or

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the Artichoke with, yes, chopped artichokes and Feta. The Fresco features fresh tomato, onion, cucumber and Feta. And if you like a bit of heat, pick Spiced, with onion, jalapeño and a squirt of tongue-tingling sriracha.

2609 Cherokee St., Lemp-Cherokee District labeebees.com Inspired Food Culture

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FEAST FAVES / DESIGN TRENDS WE LOVE

LEATHER FLOORS

Photo courtesy TORLYS Inc.

If you’re like us, a lot of your kitchen time is spent on your feet. And floors that are made both for comfort and style can be hard to come by, which is why we’re excited about the stylish good looks and cozy feel of leather floors.

Cooks’ kitchens and high-traffic dining rooms may not seem like the ideal places for leather flooring, but Greg Blanke of Boardwalk Hardwood Floors, which carries Torlys leather floors, would disagree. “A leather floor is no different than the leather coat in your closet: It wears great, lasts a long time and if it gets worn, just put a little conditioner on it to bring it back to life.”

Beyond its high-end look, leather flooring also offers practical advantages. It can be installed below grade, over concrete or existing floors, and uses a glue- and nail-free joint system for seamless installation. And, says Blanke, “it’s environmentally friendly, as all the components are recycled material from production of other items, including belts, boots and jackets.”

This floor doesn’t just talk the talk, it walks the walk.

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FEAST FAVES / whAT we’re drinking

GREEn BEER If you’re going to drink green beer this St. Patrick’s Day, for goodness sake, make sure it’s good. At the newly opened Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., you Urban can order their Zucker Weisse in Chestnut the traditional Berliner style: with Brewing Co. syrup. Traditionally, this light, slightly tart beer is served with 314.308.6471 just a splash of either raspberry or Midtown woodruff syrup. Woodruff, for the uninitiated, gives this drink its green hue and is often used in jellies, tea and wines in Germany as well as potpourri and moth balls because of its strong, sweet aroma.

PHOTOGRAPHy by J. Pollack Photography

If a syrup-sweetened brew is not to your taste, we suggest you give another of the craft beers on Urban Chestnut’s list a sip. The beers in its Reverence Series pay homage to classic European beer styles. Try the Schnickelfritz, a fruity Bavarian weissbier, or order the Harwood Myth, a roasty English-style brown porter. Urban Chestnut’s Revolution Series gives a nod to current brewing trends, and we especially like the Hopfen, which is dry hopped using Hallertau hops. Green or not, the beers at this new craft brewery are decidedly great.

3229 Washington Ave., Midtown urbanchestnut.com

BEER GLASSES | 1 | Bella beer mug, $72 for set of six; Pottery Barn, multiple locations, potterybarn.com | 2 | Amsterdam beer glass by Schott Zwiesel, $12; Sur La Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com | 3 | Bruges 16oz beer glass, $5.95; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com

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FEAST FAVES / shop-o-matic

Jennifer’s Pharmacy & Soda Shoppe 314.862.7400 Clayton

Jennifer’s Pharmacy & Soda Shoppe There are few things in life more exciting than discovering a shop with fun, unique items and a humorous, energetic staff full of personality. Except, that is, when a shop has all this plus a soda fountain counter.

PHOTOGRAPHy by Ashley Gieseking

Jennifer’s Pharmacy is one of those shops that looks cute on the outside, so you pop in to kill five minutes on your way to something else and you end up leaving 30 minutes later with a bag full of goodies, a smile on your face and plans to return. Here you’ll find everything you expect in a pharmacy, but with a modern twist. The greeting cards and gifts have an attitude, the home cleaning and hygiene products are ecofriendly, and the supplements and snacks are high-quality with an emphasis on all-natural ingredients. The only thing in the shop without a modern slant is the soda fountain, which is a throwback to the good old days.

The ladies behind the counter serve up homemade soups, sammies and sweet treats made with locally sourced ingredients and offered with a side of good-natured ribbing.

Regular patrons are given nicknames and spend their lunch hour answering off-the-cuff trivia questions while chowing down on counter classics such as the meat loaf melt, the Braunschweiger sandwich and a phosphate or one of the shop’s award-winning milkshakes. If it’s your first visit, order the Flying Monkey Shake, a hot fudge and banana milkshake that, when ordered, incites a behind-the-counter choreographed stunt involving a flying stuffed monkey. If you’re more low-key, simply ask them to heat up one of Mary’s famous chocolate chip pecan cookies, and you’ll have a memorable experience without all the hoopla.

30 N. Central Ave., Clayton jenniferspharmacy.com

CHABLIS written by Jennifer Johnson

Chablis, a French region known for world-renowned Chardonnay, is officially part of Burgundy but is closer in proximity, climate and soils to Champagne. Though hard winters and a high risk of spring frost make grape growing difficult, the results yield Chablis’ inimitable style – a resolute acidity and an almost perfunctory minerality and flintiness. Chablis is quite age-worthy, and interestingly, not all Chablis is unoaked, as producers often ferment and/or age their best wines – Grand Cru and Premier Cru classes – in moderate amounts of French oak. Chablis is terrific with fish, shellfish and any white meat dish that isn’t overly spiced or acidic.

2008 Patrick Piuze Chablis,

2008 Domaine Servin Chablis,

Terroir de Chichée

1er Cru Butteaux

Chablis, France

Chablis, France

Patrick Piuze’s portfolio, from Petit to Grand Cru, demonstrates classic Chablis at its best. Aromas of lemon zest and crème frâiche preempt whistle-clean lemon-lime flavors in this midweight wine.

Pair with steamed mussels, vegetable wontons, and fish and chips (sans the vinegar).

This wine is aged partially in French oak, and its light golden color and aromas of pineapple and cantaloupe set the stage for an intriguing interplay of minerality, tangerineemphasized citrus and subtle vanilla on the palate. Pair with pork loin, goat cheese ravioli and seafood risotto.

$25; Saint Louis Wine Market & Tasting Room, 164 Chesterfield Commons E., Chesterfield, stlwinemarket.com

$32.99; The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, wineandcheeseplace.com Inspired Food Culture

PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Miller

FEAST FAVES / what we’re dRinking

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MY STUFF

Jeff Stettner

owner of 33 Wine Shop and Tasting Bar written by Catherine Neville

How do you store your personal wines?

We keep a small wine fridge (60 bottles) at home. The only place to keep it is Jordan’s room. Good thing he hasn’t figured out how to pick locks. What wine do you reach for when you’re not working? Is it okay to say Bourbon? Do you cook at home? A lot of risotto and egg dishes (we have amazing local eggs). My wife used to be a vegetarian and I got into the habit of cooking vegetable-based dishes. Does stemware matter? Yes. The single most important element of design to look for is a thin lip. Cork vs. screwcap? Both make sense for different reasons. We are still learning how screwcap wines age, but they are great for wine that is meant to be drunk soon after release. How about boxes? Have yet to jump on that train. What’s the best wine on your list that nobody orders? There are some older Rieslings that are amazing…

When done well, it’s one of the world’s great wines. What varietals and/or regions should people knew more about? Austria makes great whites (Grüner Veltliner) and reds (Blaufränkisch). What do you think of wine ratings? Ratings can be a great guideline; critics have wonderful palates and uncover spectacular wines that are relatively unknown.

At the same time, they are rating using their own preferences and there is nothing wrong with having a different opinion from a famous critic. What do you think is the next “big thing” in wine? Lower alcohol wines that are easier to drink and match with food. What about beer? I am obsessed with an English brewery called Hook Norton. And I can’t wait to sell the new local stuff coming from Urban Chestnut, Civil Life and Perennial Ales. What do you see as the next emerging beer style? Session beers with flavor. What do you wish people knew about wine? It’s agriculture; it’s organic and ever-changing. The diversity of what happens in the same vineyard each year is unique.

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33 Wine Shop and Tasting Bar 1913 Park Ave., Lafayette Square 314.231.9463 33wine.com Pictured left to right: Jennifer Jacobs, Jordan Stettner and Jeff Stettner.

PHOTOGRAPHy By Greg Rannells

33 Wine Bar quietly stands, sans signage, tucked into an idyllic spot in Lafayette Square.

Opened originally by Jake Hafner (who is currently launching Civil Life Brewing Co.), 33 is known as a wine lover’s wine bar, a place where the staff is knowledgeable, the list is long and the clientele engaging. When Jeff Stettner bought the bar in 2009, his goal was “to make the transition as unobtrusive as possible. I was a customer of 33 from the moment I moved to St. Louis in 2004, and, like so many others, was amazed at the product Jake had created.” So what’s it like owning a favorite hangout? “When the bar is open, I never feel like I am working.

Spending time with regulars is awesome.”

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LAVENDER BY ©iStockphoto.com/matka_Wariatka

gadget a-go-go

Put to the test

PRODUCT PHOTOGRAPHY by Laura Miller

Herb KEEPERS written by Pat Eby

Cuisipro Compact Herb Keeper

Hutzler Herb Saver

Crate and Barrel Herb Keeper

Progressive Fresh Herb Keeper

PROS

PROS

PROS

PROS

A dainty herb keeper with a stylish triangular shape that’s easy to grab. A rod in the lid connects to a basket that sits solidly halfway up the keeper for good access. The lid fits closely enough to hydrate the herbs with some, not much, condensation. Leafy herbs kept a solid three weeks before a slight mildew smell crept in. Scallions stayed fresh two weeks, as did rosemary before testing time ran out.

Simple, lightweight and inexpensive, this keeper holds herbs securely with a removeable ring inset in the bottom. The top bubble closes with a friction fit and comes apart easily for maintenance. Herbs stayed fresh for just over two weeks before some leaves yellowed. Small bunches of rosemary and thyme fared best.

Big, strong and beautiful, this herb keeper delivered fresh cilantro and parsley week after week for nearly a month. Leaves didn’t yellow or brown. Tastes sparkled, colors stayed bright and nothing slimed. Sweet to handle with a slip-resistant band around a skinny middle. Shorter 10-day tests kept scallions brightly green and thyme supple.

In-depth stock too. Great product.

Clean good looks, solid construction and a large capacity help this keeper work. Herbs stayed green and tasted great for just short of three weeks. Three-quarters of a pound of asparagus, trimmed, stayed sprightly green for a week before being cooked.

CONS CONS

Though its small size displaced fewer things on the refrigerator door, it could not hold even half-bunches of parsley and cilantro. Air didn’t flow quite as freely as in the larger keepers, which could account for the mildew odor.

The ring seems flimsy when you forcefully snap it in place. Condensation built up inside this unit quickly, which contributed to a more rapid deterioration of the leafier herbs. $5.99; Dierbergs, multiple locations, dierbergs.com

CONS

Holds tons, but at nearly 5 inches wide and 9½ inches tall, it hulks silently in the fridge. $19.95; Crate and Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com

CONS

That bugaboo condensation clouds the clear cylinder too often. The bottom screws on and off but not always easily. When the bottom comes off so that the water can be changed, the herbs flop about. $13.59; amazon.com

$19.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, kitchencopia.com

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W h at to l oo k for : Size: Full bunches of leafy herbs sit snugly in the largest and pack too tightly in the smaller keepers. But a big model takes up as much refrigerator real estate as a half-gallon of milk.

Functionality: Shapes that are skinny in the middle or triangular are easier to grab and hold. Built-in rings or trays keep herbs from flopping around when you snip them or change the water.

Materials: Look for BPA-free plastics. The chemical bisphenol A can leach into food and water from some plastic containers.

Stainless steel is a must for any metal parts. Seals and lids may be plastic or silicone. Note: All units we tested are BPA-free.

Construction: Pieces should hold securely together yet come apart without much effort for maintenance and cleaning. Look for solid, close-fitting lids.

page

Use these clever keepers to create the freshest flavors with our savory spring tart recipes!

Availability: Check the in-stock status if you order these. Waits can be as long as 45 days.

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ON the shelf

BEER written by Michael Sweeney

SPIRITS

GET CHAD’S RECIPES ON THE WEB feastSTL.com

written by Chad Michael George

When not using his spare time to make fun of people who write blogs, Michael Sweeney writes the beer blog STLHops. com. The irony is lost on him.

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

O’Fallon Brewery’s Black Hemp

Koval Rye Chicago Whiskey

STYLE: American Black Ale (5.8% abv) AVAILABLE AT: deVine Wines and Spirits, 2961 Dougherty Ferry Road, Kirkwood, 636.825.9647; $8.49 (6-pack, 12-oz bottles) Pairings: Beef brisket • Gouda

Not quite a stout and not quite a porter, this beer from O’Fallon Brewery defies convention. The combination of toasted hemp seeds, oats and rye provides for a complex and earthy beer. The Amarillo hops help add a spicy aroma that complements the toasted hemp.

Firestone Walker Brewing Co.’s Firestone 14 STYLE: American Strong Ale (12.5% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $19.99 (22-oz bottle) Pairings: Drink as digestive

While winemakers have been doing it for hundreds of years, you don’t hear about blending nearly as often in the brewing world. Firestone Walker has blended six of its barrel-aged beers to create this amazingly intricate beer. Caramel, fig, oak and chocolate are just a few of the descriptors for a beer that proves that mixing six amazing beers together can produce something phenomenal.

Stillwater Artisanal Ales’ Cellar Door STYLE: Saison (6.6% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Friar Tuck, multiple locations, friartuckonline.com; $11.49 (750-ml bottle) Pairings: Roast sage chicken • Spinach salad

Saisons are often called “farmhouse ales”; these beers were designed to be drunk by the farmhands who helped during the summer harvest. You may not be working on a farm, but that doesn’t diminish the enjoyment you’ll get from the spicy and floral flavor and aroma of Stillwater’s Cellar Door.

Provenance: Chicago (40% abv) Available at: Vineyards Wine, 17223 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, vineyardswine.com; $40.99

Koval Distillery is bringing a trio of white, or unaged, whiskeys to the St. Louis market. The rye offering is distilled from 100 percent organic rye, unlike most aged rye whiskeys, which contain much less than 100 percent rye. Since Koval does not age the spirit in oak, the true flavor of the rye grain shines through. A curious silky feel with deep peppery and floral notes dominates the palate.

Spirits of St. Louis Island Time Amber Rum Provenance: St. Louis (40% abv) Available at: Randall’s Wines and Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $22.99

The good folks at Square One Brewery have entered the distillation business in style. This amber rum is made from golden cane molasses from the sugarcane fields of Louisiana and aged in oak casks . Smooth vanilla flavors dominate this quality entry from a local distiller.

Skinos Mastiha Spirit Provenance: Greece (30% abv ) Available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $32.99

This spirit is in a category of its own. I have tasted nothing to compare it to. Distilled from tree sap called Mastiha, Skinos has an eerie, flowery sweetness. Notice light hints of pine or evergreen, with a texture and silky sensation that linger. Mastiha sap has a storied past for its medicinal applications, so drink to good health!

OUR TOP PICKS FOR MARCH Pouring wine photography by ©iStockphoto.com/Lauri Patterson

WINE written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

2009 Solo Quinta Provenance: Romania Available at: Provisions Gourmet Market, 11615 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, provisionsmarket.com; $14.99 Pairings: Clams • Seafood crêpes • Cheesy chicken casserole

Celebrate spring early with this invigorating white blend. An interesting combination of five grapes, including well-known red wine varietal Merlot, this wine is loaded with scents of grapefruit and apricots.

Tart and zingy, it continues to develop in the glass, unleashing notes of honey and spice. This wine will prompt a closer look into the Romanian section at your nearest wine retailer.

2008 Luca Laborde Double Select Syrah Provenance: Mendoza, Argentina Available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $21.99 Pairings: Charbroiled steak • Mushroom ravioli • Aged cheeses

If we were to categorize wine as masculine or feminine, this Syrah would no doubt be classified as the former. Wafts of leather, tobacco and smoked meat leap from the glass with a deceiving allusion to age. A full mouth feel of black fruit and spice is accompanied by firm tannins and an enduring finish. A meaty wine that is giving Malbec a run for its money as my red wine of choice from Argentina.

2007 Justin Reserve Tempranillo Provenance: Paso Robles, Calif.

Available at: Schnucks, 10275 Clayton Road, Frontenac, schnucks.com; $46.99 Pairings: Garrotxa cheese • Gumbo • Brisket

Previously available exclusively through the Justin wine club, this intriguing wine recently became available via retail – but only in the St. Louis market. This traditional Spanish grape has seen success in central California, producing wines that are rich with spice, full-bodied and age-worthy. Aromas of currant and cocoa powder lead into a balance of fruit and earth on the palate. Old World appeal with New World charisma.

Join Angela Ortmann and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville for a happy hour wine tasting at 6pm on Thu., March 17 at The Schlafly Tap Room.

RSVP by emailing rsvp@stlwinegirl.com.

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mystery shopper

Hungarian Kohlrabi Soup

By Christopher Lee, Café Ventana

Serves | 6 | 2 strips 1 Tbsp

½ 2 cloves 2 stalks

1 2 Tbsp 4½ cups

3 lbs

1 lb 1½ Tbsp

bacon, chopped unsalted butter onion, julienned garlic, minced celery, chopped large carrot, chopped chopped fresh parsley chicken stock chicken, back removed, cut into 8 pieces kohlrabi, with leaves fresh lemon juice salt and freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation | Sauté bacon in medium sauce pan over medium-high heat until crisp. Add butter and onion; cook about 2 to 3 minutes, until onions start to wilt. Add garlic, celery, carrot and parsley. Cover and cook until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.

Transfer mixture to a blender and blend until smooth.

Strain mixture into large saucepan and heat to a boil.

Add stock and chicken. Lower to a simmer, cover and cook until the chicken is tender, about 30 minutes, occasionally skimming the surface of fat.

Remove chicken from soup and add diced kohlrabi.

Cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes or until kohlrabi is tender. Remove the bones and skin from the chicken and cut the meat into chunks.

Simmer the soup for 10 to 15 minutes, until it reduces a little. Add the chicken and kohlrabi leaves. Simmer the soup for 5 minutes more, and then add lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

MEET: Kohlrabi Have you seen them in the produce section, these little satellites? Boxes of small green and purple Sputniks, unquestionably alien among the terrestrial familiarity of broccoli, lettuce and tomatoes.

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written by Russ Carr

WHAT IS IT?

How Do I Use It?

Despite its UFO-like appearance, kohlrabi is about as down-to-earth a vegetable as you can get. Its name came from the German words kohl (cabbage) and rube (turnip).

But kohlrabi actually isn’t much like either vegetable.

The bulbous stem grows aboveground, unlike the root vegetables it resembles. And with its thin skin and crisp texture, kohlrabi is more like a less sweet counterpart to jicama – and nearly as versatile – rather than cabbage.

Kohlrabi is extremely nutritious (it’s a particularly good source of vitamin C and potassium), and it’s a wonder that it has remained off the radar of health-conscious foodies.

There’s really no wrong way to prepare kohlrabi, though the stem should be peeled first to expose the creamy flesh. Look for stems about the size of your fist, as larger sizes tend to get tough. Its mild flavor makes it a flexible substitute for potatoes. Take a cue from kohlrabi’s namesakes and shred it like cabbage for real “kohl” slaw or roast it as you would turnips. Kohlrabi stalks are used less frequently, but the leaves – like collards or turnip greens – can be eaten raw, steamed or sautéed. Kohlrabi’s ability to assimilate into all manner of dishes transforms it from otherworldly visitor to stellar ingredient.

to pick up more delicious recipes featuring kohlrabi. Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations.

MARCH 2011

PHOTOGRAPHy by Carmen Troesser

While chicken is simmering, trim, peel and dice kohlrabi. Wash the leaves and blanch them in boiling water. Shock the leaves in ice water, drain and reserve.

check it out!

Feast extra

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the cheat

Lobster Bisque STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassandra Vires

For me, lobster bisque brings one thing to mind: killing a lobster.

Add to that the difficulty of breaking down the lobster and knowing which parts to cook and which to not cook, and in my opinion, it is all way too much work. Go ahead and call me lazy, but my laziness has led to a wonderfully decadent cheat for lobster bisque that uses only lobster tails.

Traditional bisque is made with shellfish, usually lobster, shrimp or crayfish, and thickened with the shells of the seafood in combination with rice or bread. Contemporary recipes call for adding flour at the beginning or even adding a mixture of flour and water at the end to thicken the soup.

All are good methods, but flour tends to dull the flavor, so I favor rice or bread. Heavy cream can also be used to thicken the soup, and it provides the velvety consistency for which bisques are known. The cream also adds flavor and richness to the finished product.

The addition of alcohol is a classic flavoring method but can provide more than just flavor. White wine, brandy or sherry can be used and are all excellent liquids for deglazing. This ensures every bit of flavor is cooked into the soup as opposed to being stuck to the bottom of the pan.

This month’s cheat follows most of the traditional techniques.

Combining a flavorful stock with heavy cream, incorporating the cream at different stages and puréeing all of the ingredients allow the bisque to achieve a deep, flavorful finish without the use of a whole lobster. Although this recipe may be a bit timeconsuming, it is not difficult.

The results are well worth the time; plus the leftovers can be easily frozen and reheated for quick weeknight dinners or an extremely satisfying lunch.

Chef Cassandra Vires received her culinary training in Houston, Texas, and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

COOKING VIDEO! Watch chef Cassy Vires make this silky, satisfying bisque step by step.

Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.

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Lobster Bisque Serves | 4 to 6 |

4 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp

2

2 2 stalks

2

4 cloves 4 sprigs

1 3 Tbsp 2 Tbsp ¼ cup

2 cups 2 Tbsp 4 cups

lobster tails, 8 oz each* olive oil unsalted butter leeks, chopped and rinsed yellow onions, chopped celery, chopped carrots, peeled and chopped garlic, smashed fresh thyme bay leaf orange zest tomato paste dry sherry (substitute white wine or brandy) seafood stock uncooked white rice heavy cream, divided salt and freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation | | 1 | Using kitchen shears, cut shell on underside of each lobster tail down to tail fin. Repeat along opposite side of tail. Place on a cutting

board, underside down, and cut lengthwise, following the line created by the scissors. Turn tail flesh side up and cut into smaller pieces, using the breaks in the shell as a guide. Rinse each piece under cold water and remove any veins. Set on paper towels to dry.

In large pot over high heat, cook oil and butter until butter melts and starts to brown. Add lobster tails and cook until shells begin to turn bright red. | 2 | Add leeks through orange zest, and stir to combine.

Cook until vegetables are soft and aromatic. Stir in tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Stir in sherry and scrape any bits from bottom of pot. Cook until most of the liquid has evaporated, continuing to scrape up bits. Add stock and rice. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to medium. Stir in 3 cups cream and simmer 30 to 40

minutes, stirring occasionally.

Remove thyme and bay leaf.

Purée soup with an immersion or upright blender. | 3 | Strain back into pot with a fine mesh strainer or chinois (or substitute cheesecloth). Use a wooden spoon to press solids, releasing as much liquid as possible.

Place remaining cream in a small sauce pot, bring to a simmer and add to the soup. Season with salt and pepper and cook to thicken, about 15 minutes.

Ladle into bowls and garnish as desired. Suggested garnishes include chopped chives, toasted baguette, drops of truffle oil or pieces of cooked lobster. *Fresh lobster tails are best, but if unavailable, substitute frozen tails.

Thaw completely before using.

|1|

PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

|2|

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deconstructed dishes

Indian Rice Pudding written by Erik Jacobs

|

Recipe by Gabrielle DeMichele, Nate Bonner and Lucy Schnuck

It has been said that you’re likely to get more satisfaction from pudding when alive than words of praise when dead.

Translation? We have only so much time on this rock to eat pudding. Don’t waste it. So when you’ve eaten that last bit of vindaloo and your gullet is spewing fire, reach for that cooling rich bowl of rice pudding, called kheer. Exotic spices and luscious creaminess combine with a heavenly aroma and pleasing texture to make up the allure of this Indian rice pudding. Your clock is ticking. Enjoy this pudding while you can.

Gabrielle DeMichele, Nate Bonner and Lucy Schnuck work together to formulate original recipes, brainstorming the best ingredients, methods and techniques to employ when teaching classes at the Schnucks Cooks Cooking School in Des Peres.

Indian Rice Pudding (Kheer) Serves | 6 | 7 cups ½ cup 3 to 4 ¾ cup

10 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 2 tsp

¼ cup

whole milk basmati rice cardamom seeds, crushed sugar saffron threads currants pistachios, chopped sultanas fresh nutmeg for garnish cream (optional)

JOIN US! rsvp: schnuckscooks.com OR 314.909.1704

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| Preparation | Place milk, rice and

entirely dissolved. Add saffron threads,

cardamom in a saucepan over high heat

currants, pistachios and sultanas, and

and bring just to a boil, being careful to

stir. Continue to simmer for another 5

not allow the milk to boil over. Reduce

minutes. Remove from heat and let sit

heat to low and simmer, covered, until

for 5 to 10 minutes.

rice is tender, stirring occasionally to avoid scorching, 45 minutes or more.

Serve warm or chilled with a little cream poured over the top and a few

Add sugar to rice and stir until it is

gratings of nutmeg.

Get hands-on and learn about Indian cuisine with chefs Nate and Lucy on Wed., March 23.

Join us in the kitchen to make lamb vindaloo, a flavorful lamb stew with curry and other great spices, garlic naan, rice pudding and chai tea.

Cardamom Seeds

Saffron Threads

Currants

Basmati Rice

Cardamom is a spice used sparingly in the West while being wildly popular in other parts of the world in both sweet and savory dishes. Harvested from the plant in pod form, the seeds inside give cardamom its spicy/sweet flavor. While there are other varieties of cardamom, green cardamom is the one most widely used. As with most spices, you will get a more robust flavor and aroma from grinding fresh cardamom seeds, but it is also available ground.

At upward of $1,000 per pound, saffron is the most expensive spice in the world. It is the dried stigma of a specific variety of crocus flower, and when used in cooking, it offers a striking yellow color with a grassy, metallic flavor.

Depending on the variety, there may be between 70,000 and 200,000 strands per pound of saffron – each manually extracted from the plant. Ponder that the next time you kvetch about your job.

Currants (red, black or white) are the small berry fruit of a small shrub.

Appealing for their sweetness, currants also possess a sour element that is often enjoyed as a counterpoint to balance sweet dishes. With a vibrant rubylike color when fresh, the red currant is most readily available here in its dried form, which is often confused with raisins.

One of the world’s great grains, basmati rice is used extensively in India and Pakistan. Being a long-grain variety of rice, basmati tends to cook up fluffy with distinctly separate grains. Fresh basmati has a distinctive aroma that hints at fresh roasted nuts, and its flavor blends well with a wide range of cuisines.

PHOTOGRAPHY by Rob Grimm

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spring

a savory slice of

Story and recipes by Cassandra Vires

|

Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Spring is on its way, bringing renewed excitement for farm-fresh fruits and veggies. As you walk the rows at the farmers’ market or rifle through your CSA box, you may wonder what to do with all that produce.

Savory tarts are a delicious and beautiful way to utilize the season’s early arrivals. Starting with a few standby crust recipes and some versatile fillings, focus on combining texture, flavor and color to create a light and easy meal. Finish the plate with some fresh greens and a simple vinaigrette, some marinated cucumbers or a nice tomato salad when those come into season.

Asparagus and Prosciutto Tart This tart is quick and beautiful. The asparagus can easily be replaced with zucchini, tomatoes or even eggplant as the seasons change.

Serves | 6 to 8 | 1 lb 1 Tbsp 4 oz ½ cup 2 Tbsp

12 oz ½ cup

3

1

1

asparagus basil, chiffonade (cut into ribbons) prosciutto, torn into long pieces pine nuts infused oil (herb and citrus work best) salt and freshly ground black pepper whole milk ricotta heavy cream eggs lemon, zested whole wheat crust, par-baked

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400°F. Cut off and discard the rough ends of the asparagus. Using a vegetable peeler, thinly slice the asparagus lengthwise, creating long ribbons. Toss with basil, prosciutto, pine nuts and oil. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together ricotta, cream, eggs and lemon zest. Spread evenly over the bottom of the prepared crust and bake until set and lightly browned, about 30 minutes.

Remove from oven and top with asparagus mixture.

Return to the oven for another 5 to 7 minutes, or until asparagus is cooked through. Let cool on a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature with a simple green salad.

Mediterranean Sweet Pepper Tart The tang of Feta makes this tart perfect for more acidic ingredients. Stick to peppers, tomatoes, olives and lentils to balance the flavor.

Serves | 6 to 8 |

4 oz 2 cloves 24 oz

1

4

8 oz

2

8 oz 1 tsp

pancetta, cut into small dice* garlic, minced fresh spinach salt and freshly ground black pepper whole wheat crust, par-baked sweet peppers (assorted red, orange and yellow), julienned Feta, crumbled eggs sour cream minced fresh oregano

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 375°F. In a large skillet, cook pancetta until crisp. Using a slotted spoon, remove pancetta and place on a plate lined with paper towels. Add garlic to pan and cook until fragrant. Add as much spinach as will fit in the pan, stirring to coat in fat from the pancetta. Keep adding the spinach and cooking until all is wilted and liquid has cooked out. Season with salt and pepper.

Place spinach on a plate lined with paper towels or in a colander and press to remove liquid. Combine with cooked pancetta.

Spread sautĂŠed spinach over the bottom of the tart crust.

Arrange pepper slices over the spinach in a decorative fashion (a spiral pattern works well). Sprinkle with Feta. In a medium bowl, whisk eggs, sour cream and oregano. Carefully pour over the peppers, taking care not to disrupt the pattern.

Bake until set and lightly browned, about 50 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature with a simple green salad. *Ask the butcher to cut a piece of pancetta rather than using the thin slices normally found in the deli.

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Serves | 6 to 8 |

2

1 lb

2 Tbsp

1 2 cloves 1 tsp ¼ cup

6 ¾ cup 12 oz

1

leeks fingerling potatoes, halved lengthwise unsalted butter Granny Smith apple, julienned garlic, minced freshly ground black pepper white wine eggs heavy cream sharp white Cheddar, shredded salt and freshly ground black pepper plain shortcrust, par-baked

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. Fill a large pot ¾ full with water and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, slice leeks lengthwise, root to tip, and rinse under cold water. Thinly slice the white and light green parts and place in boiling water for 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove leeks and drain in a colander (do not pour out water). Return water to a boil and add fingerling potatoes. Cook until tender and drain.

GO!

This tart uses a quiche-style filling, but unlike with a quiche, the ingredients are all cooked before being added to the tart. The sky’s the limit here when it comes to fresh produce. Also, feel free to play with the cheese, using gruyère, Swiss or even a firm Pont L’Évêque.

on the

Spring Leek and Potato Tart

follow on the Go! Access FEAST

on facebook

anywhere you go with our mobile site, m.feastSTL.com.

Our recipes link makes it convenient to shop for ingredients from your smart phone.

In a large skillet, heat butter until melted. Add leeks and apples and sauté. Add cooked potatoes and garlic and cook until fragrant. Add black pepper and white wine and cook until wine is evaporated. Set aside to cool.

In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs, cream and cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Add leek and potato mixture to egg mixture and stir to combine. Pour mixture into the prepared tart shell and bake until set and lightly browned, about 45 minutes.

Let cool on a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature with a simple green salad.

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Radish Leaf Pesto and Caramelized Onion Tart The goat cheese filling for this tart is a quick and easy base. The caramelized onions can easily be replaced with sautéed asparagus, broccoli or wild mushrooms.

The pesto made from radish greens gives the tart a bright burst of color as well as an appreciated depth.

The radishes themselves can be added to a salad served alongside the tart.

Serves | 6 to 8 | Caramelized Onions 2 Tbsp

1 1 tsp 1 tsp ½ cup

olive oil Vidalia onion, julienned chopped thyme lemon zest white wine

Radish Leaf Pesto 2 cups

1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 clove 1 tsp 2 Tbsp

radish leaves, well-rinsed finely grated Parmesan pine nuts, lightly toasted garlic, minced lemon zest olive oil

Goat Cheese Filling 10 oz

8 Tbsp ¾ cup

3

1

goat cheese, at room temperature unsalted butter, at room temperature sour cream salt and freshly ground black pepper eggs cornmeal crust, par-baked

| Preparation – Caramelized Onions | Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and stir occasionally until caramelized, about 20 minutes. Stir in thyme and lemon zest and deglaze with white wine. Continue cooking until wine is completely cooked into the onions. Set aside.

| Preparation – Radish Leaf Pesto | Combine all ingredients in food processor and purée until smooth and bright green. Set aside.

| Preparation – Goat Cheese Filling | Whisk together goat cheese, butter and sour cream.

Season with salt and pepper, and whisk in eggs. | To Assemble | Preheat oven to 350°F. Pour cheese mixture into prepared crust. Evenly distribute onions on top. Most will sink, but some will stay on the top for a more attractive presentation. Top with small dollops of pesto evenly spaced across the tart.

Bake until set and lightly browned, about 40 minutes. Cool on wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature with a simple green salad.

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Crust-Making Tips & Tricks

Whole Wheat Crust

Keep it cold Measure out all ingredients, and place them in the refrigerator for 15 minutes. Try doing this with the food processor as well if the kitchen is warm.

Made from whole wheat flour, olive oil and herbs, this crust is incredibly simple to make and has a great crunch.

Unbleached white whole wheat flour, such as that made by the King Arthur brand, works best, but a mix of half whole wheat and half all-purpose flour serves as a suitable substitution if the white whole wheat is unavailable.

Don’t be afraid to improvise When it comes to baking, generally you want to follow the recipe precisely. However, unless you are working with recipes that call for scale measurements, no one measures the same.

So don’t be afraid to add more or less liquid as needed. Your eyes will tell you when it is right.

Less is best The more you work it, handle it or roll it, the more the dough heats up and the fats break down. Only do what is needed, and if you find you have to reroll the dough, put it back in the refrigerator for a while before handling again.

Overestimate the size When rolling out the dough, give yourself plenty of extra surface area. It is easy to cut off extra dough. It isn’t so easy to return it to the counter and roll it again!

check it out!

Feast extra

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For more delicious tart and crust recipes visit feastSTL.com.

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MARCH 2011

Yield | one 9-inch tart crust | 2 cups 1 tsp 1 tsp ¼ cup ½ cup

unbleached white whole wheat flour salt dried herbs (rosemary, thyme, oregano, etc.) olive oil cold water

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400°F. In a medium bowl, mix flour, salt and herbs. Add oil and water and mix with a fork until all the liquid is absorbed. Using your hand, knead gently until the dough forms a ball. Place the dough on a lightly floured surface. Sprinkle additional flour on dough and rolling pin. Roll dough into a circle large enough to fit the tart pan. Be careful not to overwork dough.

Transfer dough to tart pan and gently press into the bottom and edges. Trim excess. Place in refrigerator to rest for at least 30 minutes. Prick the bottom of the crust with a fork or toothpick a number of times to prevent air bubbles. Bake 15 minutes or until lightly browned. Set aside until ready to fill.

Traditional Shortcrust This is a traditional shortcrust recipe, versatile and easy to make using a food processor. It is great to make ahead and store in the refrigerator or freezer.

Yield | one 9-inch tart crust | 1Ÿ cup ½ tsp 8 Tbsp 2 Tbsp

all-purpose flour salt unsalted butter, chilled, cut into small cubes cold water

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400°F. In the bowl of an electric food processor fitted with the plastic blade, combine flour and salt. Sprinkle butter cubes over the

surface of the flour and beat until pea-sized crumbs start to form, about 30 seconds. Add water through the feed tube while pulsing the food processor. Continue until dough comes together to form a ball. Do not overwork dough.

Cut a circle of parchment paper large enough to fill tart pan and place over dough. Fill with pie weights and bake until shell is set, about 20 minutes. Remove the parchment and pie weights and bake for an additional 7 minutes, or until crust is golden-brown.

Sprinkle flour on the surface of the ball and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Let rest in refrigerator for at least 1 hour.

Place dough on a lightly floured surface. Sprinkle additional flour on dough and rolling pin. Roll dough into a circle large enough to fit the tart pan. Be careful not to overwork dough.

Transfer dough to tart pan and gently press into the bottom and edges. Trim excess. Place in refrigerator to rest for at least 30 minutes.

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Our Readers’ 50 Food Faves

5 FEAST WANTS

YOU!

Tell us what’s so great about food in St. Louis!

Where is the best place to buy kitchen gadgets?

What food best represents St. Louis food culture to you?

What’s your favorite St. Louis food memory?

In our anniversary issue (August 2011) we’ll be celebrating all the things that make St. Louis a flavorful place to call home. The FEAST 50 will present our readers’ favorite St. Louis culinary experiences: where you like to shop, your favorite dishes to prepare at home, which restaurants you love and your most treasured St. Louis food memories.

So share your thoughts and opinions with us!

The best stories, ideas, tips and recipes will become part of the FEAST 50, a reader-inspired tribute to St. Louis’ love of food.

Email

editor@feastSTL.com and tell us what food in St. Louis means to you.

IN THE DARK Written by Michael Sweeney

|

Photography by Carmen Troesser

A lot of folks are intimidated by dark beers, assuming too-strong flavors and high alcohol contents lie behind their opaque façades. In fact, dark beers offer rich flavors and smooth textures that make for an eminently drinkable delight.

Here, we highlight some of our favorite dark beers, where to get them and what dishes bring out their best qualities.

The Bleeding Deacon Public House 4123 Chippewa St., South City, 314.772.1813

The Beer: New Belgium 1554 One of America’s original black ales, the New Belgium 1554 doesn’t fit neatly into any style. While it certainly looks dark, the body remains nice and light with a good amount of carbonation, making it easy to drink. The aroma of this beer is reminiscent of caramel and freshly baked bread. The roastiness definitely takes a backseat to the malt, which makes it a great gateway into dark beers.

The Dish: Roast Beef Dinner Tender roast beef, doused with gravy and piled high on top of a couple of pieces of rye bread: That’s the kind of comforting meal one needs to shake any late-winter chill. Although the dinner, which includes mashed potatoes and smoked mac and cheese, is certainly filling, the 1554 does a fantastic job with its carbonation of lifting some of the fat off the tongue, making the dish feel lighter than it actually is.

The Bar: Not quite hipster and not quite punk, the Bleeding Deacon is certainly rock ’n’ roll. From repurposed vinyl record sleeves that double as menus to the eclectic music, this is certainly one of the most memorable restaurant experiences in St. Louis.

Join FEAST and L’Ecole Culinaire on Tue., March 29.

Chef-instructor Matt Borchardt will lead a spirited demonstration on how to cook with beer. Call 314.587.2433 to reserve your space!

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The Schlafly Tap Room 2100 Locust St., Downtown, schlafly.com

The Beer: Oatmeal Stout Oatmeal stout is a beer that was almost lost to the ages. Luckily, breweries such as The St. Louis Brewery, which brews Schlafly beer, have brought it back to life. The oats added to the beer help provide a luscious silkiness. While the Schlafly version is certainly roasty, it’s not overpowering. It’s a fantastic example of balance, keeping all the flavors and aromas in check and providing one of the best examples of an oatmeal stout in the U.S.

The Dish: Fish and Fries This classic English dish pairs wonderfully with the oatmeal stout. The light and fluffy coating on the flaky fish stands up well to the slight roastiness of the beer.

Surrounded by the warm interior of the Tap Room, you’ll think you’re in England.

The Bar: Set in a revived printing building, The Schlafly Tap Room is the oldest brewpub in the St. Louis area. Schlafly is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year with new beers and a slight face-lift to the Tap Room.

The Good Pie 3137 Olive St., Midtown, thegoodpie.com

The Beer: Old Rasputin Imperial Stout Brewed originally for the court of Catherine II of Russia, the Russian imperial stout is one of the biggest and baddest stouts around. Big amounts of roasted malt provide plenty of chocolate, coffee and bitterness. Make sure not to drink these beers too cold. It’s only after they’ve warmed up that you’ll begin to notice a truly amazing mix of flavors. With abv contents typically above 8 percent, they are perfect for the last lingering days of winter.

The Dish: Margherita Pizza Sometimes the best pizza is the simplest one. The Margherita pizza at The Good Pie features only tomatoes, mozzarella and basil and is quickly cooked in a woodburning oven. You wouldn’t think a stout would work with something delicate and simple, but the roasted aspect of this beer helps cut through some of the acid of the tomatoes, all the while accentuating the slightly charred spots on the crust.

The Bar: Located in Midtown, The Good Pie is known for their excellent Neapolitan pizza. The wood-fired oven cooks a pizza in less than 90 seconds.

Featuring a laid-back vibe and a seasonal craft beer list, The Good Pie is a hot spot for the St. Louis food intelligentsia.

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The Beer: Tallgrass Buffalo Sweat For those of you who might be afraid of black beers, give a sweet stout a try. Beer is created after yeast eats the sugar in the wort (unfermented beer), creating carbon dioxide and alcohol. Although yeast can eat plenty of maltose and sucrose, it can’t process lactose. Using a bit of lactose sugar, the Buffalo Sweat stays balanced by keeping the roasted malts from overpowering but also never getting too sweet.

The Shaved Duck 2900 Virginia Ave., Tower Grove East, theshavedduck.com

The Dish: Loaded Smoked Potato Wedges Smoked potatoes, pulled pork, baked beans, bacon and white Cheddar? Oh my.

This isn’t a meal as much as it is a taste of heaven. This might be one of my favorite pairings, as it hits many of the same spots for both items. The smokiness of the pork and the potatoes plays well with the roasted malt, while the baked beans work with the lactose sugar.

The Bar: After a transformation in 2009, The Shaved Duck became that neighborhood restaurant we all wish we could have in our neighborhood. Owner Ally Nisbet put together not only an extensive craft beer selection but also some of the best barbecue in St. Louis.

Oh yeah, and plenty of duck.

Dressel’s Pub 419 N. Euclid Ave., Central West End, dresselspublichouse.com

The Beer: Guinness The original dry Irish stout; there is no mistaking a Guinness. It is served using a mixture of nitrogen and carbon dioxide to provide that classic, seemingly everlasting tan head that sits on top of a black-as-night body. This is a beer in which the roasted malt almost pops. The malt creates an somewhat tart quality that helps keep the beer crisp and dry but still low enough in alcohol for you to enjoy more than a couple of pints.

The Dish: Shepherd’s Pie Topped with mashed turnips and potatoes, this dish features braised chunks of lamb, carrots and onions combined with decadent gravy. The pleasant part of this pairing is how the Guinness helps to balance the sweetness of the carrots and onions while boosting the flavor of the lamb.

The Bar: Founded by poet Jon Dressel, this Central West End staple opened its doors 30 years ago and instantly became a second home to the creative class. A taste of the U.K. right in our own backyard, it features not only plenty of Welsh-inspired dishes but also some of the best beer, wine and whiskey lists around.

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home again:

A Farm-to-Table Tale Written by Barbara E. StefĂ no

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Photography by Greg Rannells

People flock to Winslow’s Home, the well-known University City restaurant and general store, for many reasons: There’s an older couple

with young companions and preschoolers in tow, absorbing the atmosphere; the businessman tucked in a corner with his iPad, savoring a slice of solitude in an otherwise cacophonous room; middle-age girlfriends, catching up and cackling; and college students, among the many who trek from Wash. U. for a nosh that’s as close to Mom’s as any this side of the Mississippi.

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Owners Randy Lipton and Ann Sheehan Lipton

bought the building on Delmar Boulevard in 2006. Built in 1924, the space was originally a butcher shop and later an independent neighborhood market. Ann spent two years rehabbing to resurrect that early vibe, but the Winslow’s Home old-fashioned general store feel is far from a gimmick. The couple is serious about cooking seasonally, buying locally and operating sustainably.

Roughly 35 miles away sits their Augusta, Mo., farm. The seven-acre organic farm is planted on rotation with three-plus-acres yielding a wide assortment of produce and herbs, and Ann is transitioning much of the property to perennial crops. It’s tended by managers Greg and Kelly Hickman, and dogs, cats, horses, guinea fowl, Dominique chickens and bees populate it off and on.

The farm offers the Liptons’ friends, family and customers a connection to nature that Ann feels is missing from most people’s lives these days. Besides producing foods grown and harvested by hand for the restaurant, it serves as a respite from workaday life and modern woes. The Liptons frequently host picnics and parties at the farm as a way to share their countryside retreat.

“It’s never a Martha Stewart moment [when we host guests at the farm],” says Ann. “It’s disorganized and fun. Everyone kicks back. And it’s great to see kids getting dirty.”

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Though she grew up in Clayton, Ann’s family owned property in what is now Wildwood, where she developed her passion for nature early on. These days, she nurtures that bond by spending most of her time at the Augusta farm. Even in winter, she travels to the farm a few days a week to check on the animals, get eggs for the store and take care of maintenance duties.

Though its philosophy is rooted in the past, Winslow’s Home is all about the here and now. The Liptons are diligent about packing the daily restaurant menu with foods from their own farm, and they sell their eggs and some of their produce in the Winslow’s Home store. What they can’t grow or raise on their own organically, they buy from other trusted organic farmers in the area. On rare occasions only do they go nonorganic, out of state or out of the States for their ingredients.

“I’d say 70 to 80 percent of what we cook is organic, depending on the season,” says Ann. “There’s an honesty there that, increasingly, you don’t find. I like food that’s recognizable, that doesn’t come wrapped up in package upon package upon package.”

It’s hopping in chef Cary McDowell’s kitchen. There’s winter

spinach to wash, fresh dough to roll, tubers to peel, chicken to bake.

From his prep table, he has a straight line of sight to the order counter – ideal for previewing the lunch rush at Winslow’s Home.

As the supplies wax and wane, McDowell adjusts ingredients to utilize the seasonal stock and flexes the menu accordingly.

Instead of fixing a rigid menu and casting a too-wide net for exotic components, McDowell lets the local bounty speak to him.

“It’s been a training process for the customers, but you see the same faces again and again,” Randy adds. “Things [on the menu] may not be the same as yesterday, but it works.”

Wildly popular year-round is McDowell’s chicken pot pie. Forget the freezer aisle pie, with its flaccid, colorless dough draped over an aluminum pan with tiny cubes of processed fowl and mushy carrots – that’s not pot pie! Here, every bite is a story. The handmade crust is golden-brown and satisfyingly thick. Inside, steaming chunks of

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twice-cooked chicken snuggle up to nibble-sized carrots, celery, butternut squash, leeks and parsnips from the farm. It’s served up as individual pies, each about the size of a baseball.

At roughly three inches thick, the torta rustica is layered with whole mushroom caps, winter spinach and roasted red peppers. A thick flow of tangy Fontina cheese oozes out, just begging for a quick finger dip. The flaky, egg-washed pastry that holds these treasures gleams like gold, beckoning many a diner.

In winter, McDowell relies heavily on local beef, poultry and pork (Missouri, he says, is underrated as a prime artisan pork producer); hard squashes; carrots; beets; turnips; potatoes; and other items from his root cellar and preserves from the fruits he and Ann harvested at their peak. It’s the time of year when pickled Brussels sprouts, red onions and tomatillos are kept handy. A comforting beef brisket sandwich always goes over well with diners. Eighty percent of Winslow’s menu, including the chicken pot pie, torta rustica and baked goods, is static, but McDowell might sub winter herbs such as sage, rosemary and thyme for the basil that’s plentiful in warm months.

“This has just inspired some ‘grandma-from-scratch’ cooking in me,” says McDowell. “It took awhile to come back to it, but this is home.”

The Winslow’s Home dining room is as organic as the Liptons’ farm. It’s filled with an assortment of homey, hefty wooden tables, the kind you’d want on hand during an air raid. Near the lunch counter, staples such as home-grown produce, local eggs and cheese, and Winslow’s Home kitchen faves are available for a quick grab. Tall, dark shelves along the perimeter of the room brim with kitchen supplies, from cooking staples to baking equipment to goodies for entertaining.

“I’ve always been interested by the general store – the community of it, having the essentials,” says Ann. “One thing I knew with confidence was that [the building] needed to stay a community store. It was always part of the neighborhood. I saw lots of banks and shoe stores going into these communities, and I didn’t want that. I wanted this to be like home.”

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Chef Cary McDowell shares some great recipes to highlight the flavors of the coming spring produce season.

First-of-the-Season Asparagus Soup Springtime – when fresh herbs and spices are in bloom and spring asparagus and onion are freshly plucked from the ground – is time for chef McDowell’s muchanticipated asparagus soup. It’s soothing served hot and a nice refresher when served up cold. In fact, McDowell recommends a cooldown for this soup, whether you intend to serve it that way or not. “I always try to cool soups quickly and reheat them. I find that this accentuates the flavors exponentially.”

Serves | 4 to 6 |

1 6 to 8 cloves 4 bunches

2 quarts

extra-virgin olive oil sea salt and freshly ground black pepper scallion, sliced spring garlic, peeled spring asparagus, diced hot water

| Preparation | Heat a 4- to 6-quart pot over medium heat and coat the bottom with a light layer of olive oil. Add a pinch of black pepper until you can smell it, and follow with a pinch of salt.

Add the scallion. Smash the garlic cloves with your hands to open them up, and add them to pan. Stir with a wooden spoon until scallions are soft and translucent. Add asparagus and stir until fully incorporated. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and steam gently until tender.

When vegetables are tender, remove pot from the flame and place the bright green “pulp” in a blender. Add roughly 2 parts hot water to every 1 part pulp, leaving head space in the blender. Purée to a creamy viscosity. Transfer to a container and cool quickly in ice water; this allows the soup to set and the flavors to come together. Serve cold or reheat.

Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Rhubarb and Lemon Verbena

Deviled Eggs with Spring Peas and Bacon

Panna cotta makes its appearance at Winslow’s Home when rhubarb is in season at its tart best. Chef McDowell sets and serves it in charming half-pint Mason jars.

McDowell uses salty Southern bacon, fresh local peas and only the freshest local farm eggs available for this dish. “You will notice that the yolks are astonishingly more yellow and flavorful in the freshest farm eggs,” he says. McDowell suggests cutting the eggs crossways, not lengthwise, for a more even bite.

Serves | 4 to 6 | 1¼ cup 1 handful

1

1¼ cup

2 tsp 1¾ cup 4 stalks

cream lemon verbena vanilla bean, halved, with pulp scraped and pod reserved castor sugar agar-agar buttermilk, chilled rhubarb, sliced thin sugar

| Preparation – Eggless Custard | Place cream, verbena, vanilla bean pulp/pod and castor sugar in a saucepan and bring to a scald, taking care not to allow the sugar to stick to the bottom and caramelize. When scalded, whisk in agar-agar, remove from heat and steep for 5 minutes.

Strain liquid into a large mixing bowl and add buttermilk.

Whisk to temper the mixture. Cool and pour into whatever dish you like, leaving ¼-inch to accommodate the rhubarb garnish. Refrigerate until loosely set, about 12 to 24 hours.

| Preparation – Rhubarb | Toss sliced rhubarb in a copious amount of sugar; add until it stops sticking to the rhubarb.

Place rhubarb in a saucepan and add just enough water to float the slices. Bring to a boil as quickly as possible.

Remove from heat, steep for 15 minutes and strain liquid through a fine strainer into a bowl. Chill quickly. The resulting sauce will be a vibrant, clear ruby color with a sweet-tart taste. Pour on top of the set custard and serve.

Serves | 4 to 8 |

8

¼ cup

½ cup

eggs bacon sour cream sea salt and freshly ground black pepper spring peas

| Preparation | Boil eggs until fully cooked, peel and cut in crossways, not lengthwise. Remove yolks and reserve in small bowl. Fry bacon until crispy and set aside to drain on paper towels. Add sour cream to yolks and crush with a fork, adding salt and pepper to taste. The resulting mix should be thick enough to stand up in the egg-white base.

Heat a small sauté pan over medium heat and add the peas and a little water. Cover with a lid and cook until soft and bright green. In a small bowl, mash ¾ of the peas into a coarse green paste. Spoon the yolk mixture into each egg white, make a small indention with a spoon and add some of the pea paste. Garnish with a few small peas and a piece of crispy bacon.

check it out!

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Visit us at feastSTL.com to get chef McDowell’s recipe for cauliflower and new potato “hash.”

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Get more out of a captivating Saint Louis Art Museum exhibit on the Maya culture with a meal at the Maya Café.

FEAST contributor Jessica Rapp defies cautionary guidebook warnings in search of China’s lesser-known street food.

TRAVELOGUE

Photo by J. Pollack Photography

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BOOK CLUB Introducing the FEAST book club!

20%

off

From cookbooks to memoirs and everything in between FEAST, in partnership with Left Bank Books, brings you our monthly picks for what’s new and notable in the world of foodie books.

Check out the FEAST newsletter to read up on our current pick and get a link to 20% off that month’s featured title through Left Bank Books. Plus, we recommend related books that we think you’ll love as much as we do.

This month’s pick:

Michael’s Genuine Food by Michael Schwartz This James Beard award-winning chef runs Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink, one of Miami’s hottest dining destinations. His ingredient-driven cuisine and commitment to supporting local and sustainable foods has put him at the forefront of the farm-to-table movement.

Sign up for our enewsletter or visit the FEAST EVENTS section at feastSTL.com to get your discount on this great new cookbook, plus find our staff picks for more delicious cookbooks by James Beard award-winning chefs.

Visit feastSTL.com for discounts on monthly picks.

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p

Ou rg

s tie . ow

U c u e P P d O o r P

nteresting new i o var et d ie i start grow u n a c i ng ou n

Written by Heidi Dean SPROUT Photography by Greg Rannells at Claverach Farms

|

REFERENCE Photos provided by Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds

Heirloom vegetables, fruits and herbs are prized for their unique appearance and taste, which are preserved by avoiding hybridization (crossing with another variety for traits such as hardiness or higher yield). This vigilance results in a broad variety of flavors, textures and shapes that can make a typical produce section look like the Sahara.

Heirlooms may be a little trickier to grow, but the taste benefits far outweigh the extra effort. Randel Agrella, seed production manager at Missouri’s own Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, gave us the inside scoop on some exciting varieties Baker Creek is offering this year, and chef Kevin Willmann of Farmhaus (and one New York chef) gave us serving suggestions for each of them. Finally, Benjamin Hudson, a fruit and vegetable horticulturist at the Missouri Botanical Garden, offers tips to make sure you can claim your heirloom inheritance.

Amsterdam Prickly Seeded Spinach This variety was old when Thomas Jefferson grew it for its hardiness (it’s a traditional European crop dating to the 13th century) and has striking red stems and flat, arrow-shaped leaves with a classic spinach flavor. It will yield for longer than other spinach varieties – and don’t worry: Despite the name, only the seeds are thorny.

Where to plant: Spinach loves the sun, but won’t need tons of space. You could even grow them as an edible border to add interest to a fence or the side of a house.

When to plant: This variety is such a brute that you can plant it in early fall for an autumn and early winter harvest. If you prefer to grow it in the spring, plant seeds directly in the ground in early to mid-March in a sunny

area. Expect the first harvestable leaves in 20 to 25 days; the plants will reach full maturity in 35 to 40 days.

Watering: Newly planted seeds and seedlings will need to be kept evenly moist; more mature plants can be watered every other day unless it’s very hot.

be eaten fresh or stir-fried. The outer leaves resemble romaine in appearance and taste when young and tender, but celtuce is mostly grown for the stem in the middle, which gets to be 6 to 8 inches long and 1½ inches thick and takes on the flavor of artichoke hearts when cooked.

Serving recommendations: Spinach is neutral, so keep it simple by serving it raw with a sweet or acidic vinaigrette. Avoid creamy dressings that will overwhelm the flavor and texture.

Where to plant: Like other lettuces, celtuce will need full sun and a foot or so of space on each side if you’re planting a row.

Celtuce Lettuce

When to plant: This is a hardy variety, so you can plant the seeds directly in the ground in late March, or plant in late summer for a fall harvest. Plants will be fully mature in 60 days, but you can pick and eat young, tender leaves from the center of the plant before then.

This is not a cross between celery and lettuce but an Asian variety (also known as Chinese lettuce) that can

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When to plant: Plant seeds two to three weeks after last frost (late April or early May) when soil is uniformly warm, and expect mature fruits in 85 days.

Serving recommendations: Eddie Huang of New York’s Baohaus told us, “Usually I’ve just had it lightly sautéed with salt. Low heat is the trick.”

Watering: As the name implies, watermelons need a lot of water – about 2 inches a week – and they need it constantly.

celtuce

lettuce

Serving recommendation: We suggested people simply salt their watermelon and take it to the park, and chef Willmann concurred wholeheartedly.

Horace Boyette Burpless Cucumber We don’t know whether Horace Boyette had embarrassing cucumber-based digestive issues, but we do know he developed this variety in the ’40s. It’s a classic-tasting cuke that slices nicely. And although most cucumbers are good for trellising, this one is not because of its brittle vines.

Where to plant: Choose a sunny spot where you have plenty of space for the vines to roam.

Italians and gourmands go into raptures at the mention of sweet Italian frying peppers. This variety originated near Naples, is tapered and slender, and grows to 4 to 6 inches long. Historically, it’s been grown for the rich, sweet taste it delivers when cooked.

Where to plant: Peppers like sun and fertile, welldrained soil, and they get bushy but not huge, so they’re a great choice for containers.

When to plant: Start seeds indoors in mid-March, and transplant outdoors seven to nine weeks later, after hardening off (see growing tips). Make sure evening temperatures are 70 degrees or higher before transplanting. You can expect your first harvest in about 70 days.

Watering: Newly transplanted seedlings will need daily watering; after that, every other day should do it for mulched plants. Container peppers may need daily watering, especially in July and August.

Serving recommendations: These are really rich, more complex than red bell peppers, and very sweet and flavorful, with no astringency, so Willmann likes to use them with meaty tomatoes for ketchup and Bloody Mary mix. To prepare them, blister off the skin (either over the flame of your gas range or under a broiler by cutting peppers in half, oiling them and placing them skin side up). For ketchup, simmer them with tomatoes, roasted onions, red wine vinegar, brown sugar, bay leaf and garlic.

Hamby Watermelon

Here we have a locavore’s delight: an heirloom watermelon from the Ozarks. This variety takes its name from the original grower, Mr. Hamby, who developed it in the ’30s. These melons are round; range from 12 to 20 pounds; and have thin, greenstriped rinds and classic red flesh with a very sweet watermelon flavor.

Where to plant: Choose a sunny spot where there is plenty of space for the vines to roam.

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Watering: Plan on daily watering. Your goal is to keep soil evenly moist throughout the growing season to promote even growth and prevent bitterness.

Serving recommendations: Take a tip from Alice Waters and either leave these alone or toss them in a salad with a simple vinaigrette and some goat cheese.

Nadmorska Rutabaga

Welcome to Latvia – blessed by hundreds of miles of Baltic Sea beaches and home to the Nadmorska rutabaga. More oval than round, this yellow-fleshed, green-shouldered root vegetable was collected on a seed junket in the early 2000s. The flavor, while somewhat sweet, carries overtones of turnip and cabbage.

Where to plant: Like any vegetable, rutabagas need plenty of sun, but they’re compact, so they’re easy to incorporate in long, narrow spaces.

When to plant: Plant seeds in early to mid-March, and expect mature rutabagas in 95 to 120 days.

Watering: Because this is a root crop, it’s important to keep your rutabagas evenly moist for even growth and best flavor.

icicle tomato orange

Friariello di Napoli Pepper

When to plant: Either start seeds indoors in late March and transplant three to four weeks later or plant seeds outdoors after the last frost (mid- to late April). Either way, you can expect your first cukes in about 60 days.

Serving recommendations: In their early, smaller stages, you can cut them in half and roast them in olive oil at 450°F for 5 to 10 minutes to get a little caramelization. When they’re mature, slow-stew them with a little chicken broth and some salt pork and onions until they’re tender, and then mash them with butter.

You can also highlight their sweetness in a casserole with brown sugar, molasses and butter or purée them with stock for a rich sauce (Willmann has done this to accompany hanger steak).

Tomato Varieties

Pink Icicle Tomato: What’s bright pink, richly fruity, and from the Ukraine? The pink icicle tomato, one of three new icicle tomato varieties Baker Creek is offering this year. This one is particularly stunning in the garden. It’s also indeterminate, so you can look forward to harvesting a large number of fruits over a long stretch of time.

Orange Icicle Tomato: Baker Creek owner Jere Gettle declared the orange icicle his favorite eating tomato last season. If that’s not reason enough to try it, consider that it’s rich and sweet, with citrus overtones.

Like its pink sister (above), it’s a paste tomato whose low water content makes it great for processing and preserving. Orange ketchup, anyone?

Chocolate Stripes Tomato: With orange and bright green stripes and deep red-brown flesh, the Chocolate Stripes is as beautiful as it is tasty. The flavor has been described as meaty, earthy, rich and sweet – which sounds like Cherokee Purple on steroids.

tomato

pink icicle

Watering: Treat this like any lettuce – that is, water frequently (daily in hot weather) to maintain a moist growing environment.

Where to plant: Tomato plants need plenty of space and sun and do best in rich, well-drained soil. They will also require some kind of support, such as a trellis or a cage. They’re suitable for containers, but mature tomato plants act like a sail, so be sure your pot is heavy enough to prevent tipping in high winds.

When to plant: Start seeds indoors in early to midMarch, and transplant in May after hardening off (see growing tips). Fruits will reach maturity in 80 to 90 days.

Watering: Keep newly transplanted seedlings evenly moist; check them every day and plan to water often, especially in hot weather. Consistent daily watering is key – skipping a few days and then flooding them leads to cracked, deformed fruit.

Serving recommendations: Letting the nuances of flavors and textures shine is always a good idea, especially with tomatoes, so simply dress them in olive oil and salt and enjoy. However, the icicle tomatoes are lovely in a simple summer salad, if you must.

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growing tips Peppers Regardless of whether you plant your peppers in a container or the ground, make sure it’s well after the last frost. Check to see that the soil is warm enough, as cold soil can stunt growth and waiting won’t hurt them. When you transplant them, use a balanced starter fertilizer (look for “12-12-12” on the bag) to help avoid shock, and fertilize again when the first peppers appear to help them set and grow.

Cucumbers

Heirlooms vs. Hybrids Whereas hybrids are a cross of two or more plants designed to be uniform and vigorous and to have high yields, heirlooms are intentionally kept pure from season to season. This preserves their unique flavors and textures but also means they won’t yield as much as hybrids, and not every plant will perform perfectly. Randel Agrella of Baker Creek recommends selecting heirlooms that originated in climates similar to Missouri’s for best results.

Containers Container gardening has the advantage of being simpler – using a potting mix means there are few weeds to contend with, and you can locate the pot to best suit your crop. Peppers and tomatoes work well in containers because they like well-drained soil, but keep in mind that you’ll have to water often – twice a day during hot spells – as containers dry out more quickly than the ground.

Soil Testing Basic soil tests evaluate pH, organic matter, phosphorus, potassium, calcium and magnesium and include a detailed report of what’s missing as well as specific recommendations on what to add. Testing services are available through the University of Missouri Extension service for $10 and from the Kemper Center for Home Gardening at The Missouri Botanical Garden for $22.

A recommended alternative is to use a balanced fertilizer (look for “12-12-12” on the bag) and follow the instructions for vegetable gardening.

Hardening Off To provide a transitional period and minimize shock, seedlings started indoors should be set outside during the day and taken in at night for a week to 10 days before you transplant them. An area with partial shade that’s protected from wind and heavy rain is ideal.

Cucumbers like soil with a lot of organic matter.

One disease to watch out for is bacterial wilt, which is caused by cucumber beetles and can’t be stopped once it starts. Draping the plants with a light fabric cover designed to let sun and air in cuts the risk of bacterial wilt to 30 percent; remove the fabric 7 to 10 days after the first flowers appear on the vines to allow pollination.

Watermelons Other melons are susceptible to diseases that do not affect watermelons. Per their name, they need a lot of water but prefer well-drained soil, so be sure to work compost into the area where you intend to plant them.

Rutabagas The key to a successful and delicious root vegetable crop is well-aerated soil with a fair amount of organic matter. This provides nutrients and drainage and promotes even growth (root veggies grown in compacted soil will be deformed). You can use any kind of compost – at the Missouri Botanical Garden, they use decayed plant materials – just check the bag to make sure the ingredients are agreeable to you and work enough of it into your soil to get a light, airy mix.

Roots need phosphorous to develop, so look for a fertilizer with a higher middle number.

Tomatoes Train tomatoes to a single or double stem by pinching off the “suckers” that form in the crotches of stems so the plants don’t get too dense or bushy.

This ensures that the entire plant gets enough air and sunlight, which helps it put energy into producing fruit instead of supporting its structure.

Spinach and Lettuce Generally, leafy greens such as lettuce and spinach will produce better with some nitrogen in the soil, so look for a fertilizer with a higher first number. If you decide to grow two crops of spinach or lettuce (one in spring, one in fall), be sure to fertilize again before the fall planting.

Courtesy of Benjamin Hudson, fruit and vegetable horticulturist at MOBOT’s Kemper Center for Home Gardening ROOT ILLUSTRATION BY ©iStockphoto.com/johnwoodcock

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Check out the Let’s Eat section of the Post-Dispatch every Wednesday for recipes using heirloom veggies!

ST L.C O M

You Pick It

Bistro 1130’s Lotte de Mer, Choux Braisée, Foie Gras et Lard Fume Photography by J. Pollack Photography

Tell Angela Ortmann where to dine next!

Every week for Quite the Pair, STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann visits a restaurant and pairs a dish with three great wines.

Where will she head next? It’s up to you.

Email your favorite restaurant dish to kbrashares@feaststl.com with the subject line Quite The Pair, and you’ll have a chance to get her expert pairing advice!

Visit feastSTL.com to see all of Ortmann’s Quite the Pair picks.

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pull up a chair

GEHRY HAT TRICK SIDE CHAIR

written by Erin Callier

Like something out of the delightfully askew world of M.C. Escher, the eccentric yet fluid lines of the Gehry Hat Trick Side Chair are whimsical and intriguing conversation starters. Introduce a piece of architectural history into your décor with this quirky creation from visionary deconstructionist Frank Gehry.

Three local designers find organic-inspired tables to pair with this bemusing chair:

$1,515; Design Within Reach 44 Maryland Plaza Central West End dwr.com

Acacia Wood Dining Table

“Paired together, the Gehry chair and wood table create a café feel with added substance. The organic design and coloration of the eco-friendly wood tabletop complement the natural curve of the chair, but the iron base really creates additional interest to the grouping.”

Wendy Noory, Atom Designs $1,056; Atom, atom-designs.com

Natural Wood Dining Table

“This glass-top table really shows off the uniqueness of the Gehry chair. The base can accommodate glass in different shapes and sizes, and the rustic wood complements the imaginative, curvilinear design of the chair. Both the chair and the table are adaptable to any environment, from a rustic retreat to a contemporary loft.”

Pamela Calvert, Savvy Surroundings $6,600; Savvy Surroundings, 9753 Clayton Road, Ladue, savvyladue.com

Trapeze Dining Table

“The Trapeze table has straight lines with an organic walnut top, which pairs nicely with the smooth and curvy lines of the Gehry Hat Trick Side Chair. The style of the table would make for a very unique and delightful focus point for this dining room setting.”

David Blakely, Niche Home Furnishings $5,871; Niche Home Furnishings, 300 N. Broadway, Downtown, nichestl.com

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