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Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis |








t he S E T M KER S A A issue

W�n� Exce�ence! Certified Specialists of Wine

We have the most Certified Specialists of Wine (CSW) in St. Louis. They’ll be happy to help you find some truly wonderful wines. For our complete list of CSW’s and locations, visit

Great Wines at Great Savings!

Whether you’re looking for wine to serve or to cellar, our world-class selection rivals any specialty shop. You’ll find fabulous wines produced locally and around the world. Plus, we offer special wine pricing when you buy six or more 750 ml bottles. Mix or match, it’s up to you!

Jan. 26-27, 2013

The Chase Park Plaza Hotel Presented by

One-Day Admission Tickets On Sale at select Schnucks Courtesy Centers. For more information, visit ©2012 Schnucks

Fireplace Insert HDTV Carts ��� ������ ��� ������ �� � ������ ������� ��� ���� REALISTIC-LOOKING RESIN LOGS AND EMBER BED


� NO ASSEMBLY REQUIRED! � ����������� ����� ���� ��� �� ���� � ���� ���� ���������� ��������� � ���������� ����� ��������� prices � ������ ����� �������� ����� from $ � ��� ���� �� ������� ���� 599 ��� ���������� ����������













Daily 10-8 Sunday 12-5

Not valid for persons on Missouri Disassociated Persons or Excluded lists or who have been otherwise excluded from Lumière Place, River City or other Pinnacle Entertainment properties. Must be age 21 ld t bl bli bl ? C ll 1 888 BETSOFF ©2013 Pi l E t t i t I All rights reserved.

Enjoying the


has its rewards. Like mouthwatering side dishes.


from the staff

| 10 |

from the publisher

Talking trends.

| 12 |

What’s online this month.


AT ���� STEAK HOUSE, you get more than an amazing steak. Here, every entrée is served with a hearty side of St. Louis spirit. Amidst stunning Victorian-era architecture, choose from a mouthwatering selection of dry-aged steaks or sip more than ��� different wines from around the world. It’s the best place in the city to savor and celebrate in true St. Louis fashion.

Inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis. COLUMNS

| 24 |

one on one

Mike “Pappy” Emerson digs into the local food scene.

| 26 |

the mix

Master a classic with the Manhattan.


New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 30 |

mystery shopper

Buy it and try it: Avocado oil.

| 32 |

tech school

Comfort in a cup: consommè.

| 34 |

gadget a-go-go

Put to the test: fine strainers.

| 36 |

menu options

Raise a fork to health and wealth with black-eyed pea salad.

| 66 |

the last bite

Pat Eby shares a slice of her favorite cake at Luvy Duvy’s Café.



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Coll abor atio n

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis



Incu 56 bati on Mob ility

t he M S TA TE AKE R S


SAVOR DELICIOUS VIETNAMESE SPECIALTIES ���� ��� ��� ���������� ���� �� ���� ����������� Restaurant Hours: ��� � ������ ���� �� � ���� ��� ��� � ���� ����� �� � ���� �� Sushi Bar Hours: ��� � ������ ���� �� � ����� ��� ���� ���� ����� �� � ���� ��� ���� ����� �� � ����� ��

� � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � ��� � � � ������ �� ������� � ��� ����� ������ ������ LUMIEREPLACE.COM ��� ����� ��� ������� �� �������� ������������� ������� �� �������� ����� �� ��� ���� ���� ��������� �������� ���� ������� ������ ����� ���� �� ����� �������� ������������� ����������� ���� �� ��� �� �� ����� �� ������� �������� �������� ���� �������������� ����� �������� �������������� ���� ��� ������ ���������

Inspired Food Culture

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Magazine Volume 4

| Issue 1 | January 2013

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor, Print Content Brandi Wills Managing Editor, Digital Content Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Allen Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editors/Proofreaders Stephanie Witmer, Andrea Mongler Contributing Writers Tory Bahn, Brandon Chuang, Pat Eby Chad Michael George, Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson Jeremy Nulik, Angela Ortmann, Matt Seiter, Michael Sweeney Andrew Mark Veety, Cassy Vires Contributing Photographers Jonathan Gayman, Jonathan Pollack Jennifer Silverberg, Corey Woodruff Contributing Videographer Hannah Radcliff

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 Advertising Inquiries Kelly Klein, 314.340.8562 Comments

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright Š 2010-2013 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC Jennifer A. Wood, publisher


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If you haven't tried us, or its been a while . . .

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3342 Watson Rd. • st. Louis, Mo 63139 • 314.256.1600

Discover Historic Main Street Columbia


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119 South Main Street, Columbia, IL • 618.281.8117

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Located in the Old Distillary 113 W. Gundlach • Columbia, IL • 618.281.7915 •

• Large Outdoor Patio • 11 Flat Screen TVs • 12 Beers on Tap, Imported and Specialty Micro Brews • Extensive Wine List • Kitchen Open Late

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The Patina Pony is proud to present Western inspired clothing, boots, jewelry, accessories and designer home decor from today's top Western Artisans.


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618-710-0200 700 North State St. Freeburg, IL 62243

Inspired Food Culture

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Jonathan Gayman

publisher’s letter

FEAST EVENTS St. Louis Food & Wine Experience Preview Thu., Jan. 10, 6:30 to 8:30pm; Schnucks Des Peres $30, or 314.909.1704

Sample and purchase premier wines before they’re offered at the Food & Wine Experience.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Jan. 16, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $35, or 314.909.1704

Get hands-on and make a Southern New Year’s Day spread of black-eyed pea salad, collards, pork chops and corn bread.

Magnificent Missouri Dinner Sun., Jan. 20; The Jewel Box $125,

Kevin Willmann of Farmhaus Restaurant will be creating a multi-course, seated dinner that reflects the culinary heritage of Missouri’s 18th and 19th century French and German settlers.

Feasting with the Campbells Mon., Jan. 21; 1904 Steak House at River City Casino

Feast on an eight-course Victorian meal inspired by Virginia Campbell’s hand-written 19th century cookbook and menus from the Campbell-owned Southern Hotel.

St. Louis Food & Wine Experience Jan. 25 to 27; The Chase Park Plaza Hotel Pricing varies,

More than 700 premier wines, 90 exhibitors and culinary demonstrations from acclaimed local and national celebrity chefs make for a not-to-be-missed, weekend-long epicurean adventure to benefit The Repertory Theatre of St. Louis.

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Tue., Jan. 29, 6pm; PW Pizza RSVP to

Join us to discuss The Art of the Restaurateur by Nicholas Lander while enjoying complimentary hors d’oeuvres and drink specials. Purchase the book from Left Bank Books and receive 20 percent off.

Kandace Davis of Cha Cha Chow exemplifies two of the tastemaking concepts we cover in this issue: mobility and incubation. Cha Cha Chow, one of St. Louis’ first food trucks, is based at the Midtown Enterprise Center, one of our region’s business incubators.

Les Dames d’Escoffier, an international organization of professional women in culinary fields, held its annual conference here in October. I was asked to give a talk that focused on industry trends. Sure, I said. I’d love to. And then I sat down to write.

Falling In Love ... In Five Courses Sat., Feb. 9, 6:30pm; Four Seasons Hotel 314.539.5358 or

James Beard Award-winning chef Michael Mina will bring his flair for New American dishes to the St. Louis Community College Foundation’s annual gala.

Wall Ball Sat., Feb. 9, 7 to 11pm; Third Degree Glass Factory

After considering the current trends − pickling, in-house butchery, artisan everything − I realized that I wasn’t interested in discussing the trends themselves. As culinary professionals, everyone at the conference would already know what the trends are. I wanted to explore what was giving rise to those trends. I focused in on what I see happening across the country − and here in St. Louis − that is creating the platform for innovation: mobility, collaboration and incubation. That talk, in turn, inspired the focus of this, our annual Tastemakers issue. This month, we explore the concepts and the people establishing what’s next in St. Louis food and drink. The scene is in constant flux and if you want to keep tabs on what the next trend will be, you should keep your eyes on what’s inspiring culinary creativity. Until next time,

Wall Ball is celebrating its 10th anniversary in 2013. Don’t miss this unique silent auction featuring the live creative process of 30 top local artists.

Baltic Odyssey Cruise Sept. 3 to 13, 2013 314.968.9600,

Join publisher Cat Neville, in partnership with Altair Travel, for our second annual Oceania culinary cruise. This year’s trip takes you to Scandinavia, the world’s newest center of culinary innovation. You’ll travel from Copenhagen to Stockholm with a three-day stop in St. Petersburg.


Catherine Neville





ar StLM


ON W US T w i t t e r O L L FO o o k & g b /stlm s a Face r iG Mard @STL






FRI. JAN. 25, 6:30-10:00 PM ST. LOUIS CITY HALL ic m s hi


$40 AT T H E


s m

s e m m v m n l e s s r c v f mp g f d mp s p th b 2 s g s


FEB. 2-3, 11am-5pm





v Y m od r



JAN. 6-FEB. 12, 2013


s p mi l and amateur c efs compete for t e t t e of t ju i s mp T I C K E T S de c ous Cajun and Creo e spec a t es and IN ADVANCE p S n Comfort Hurr canes ud L g t s mp s AT T H E e ava a e or purc ase at t e event


S AT . J A N . 2 6 , N O O N - 4 P M ST. LOUIS CITY HALL

$40 DOOR


Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

The Feed

Dine Out

Dine In


Feast Events


The Magazine

ENTER NOW! Our first giveaway of the New Year is a hot one: tickets to both the 11th annual Food & Wine Experience, benefitting The Repertory Theatre of St. Louis, and a preview tasting two weeks prior. Visit our Facebook page at feastSTL or scan the tag below to enter now!


Behind-The-Scenes Video: Feast publisher Catherine Neville sits down with Wilfrin and Lisa Fernandez-Cruz, the husband-and-wife team behind The Restaurant (featured on p. 14), to chat about their inspiration for the new dining destination at The Cheshire.

LOVE RECIPES? Check out our extensive collection, plus online extras, in our easy-to-use database in the Dine In section at

CONNECT WITH US Scan this tag to like us Scan this tag to follow us


Special Footage: Read about Mwanzi Co. owner Jermain Todd’s eco-conscious installations on p. 58 of this month’s Tastemakers feature, and then tour his showroom and hear from some of his latest clients, including Simone Faure of the soon-to-open La Patisserie Chouquette. Scan this tag to follow us Get the free app at



7036 Clayton Ave., Richmond Heights 314.932.7818,



behind-the-scenes VIDEO! Meet the husband-and-wife team behind the classically modern fare at The Restaurant at The Cheshire. Scan the tag or visit to watch the video.


The Cheshire has been given a sharp renovation, and The Restaurant is a beautiful example of how old and new can blend seamlessly. Seasonal dishes emerge from the huge open kitchen, helmed by the husband-and-wife team of Wilfrin and Lisa Fernandez-Cruz. The menu features “throw backs” that are “a nod to the ‘original’ Cheshire,” such as prime rib with Yorkshire pudding, and the rest of the menu has a classic richness as well. Quail are buttermilk-marinated and fried, served with fresh figs and truffle honey. The Butcher Board features pâté and duck rillette with housemade mustards. High-quality meats take center stage in The Restaurant’s entrée selection, which is organized by cooking method: rotisserie, plancha, smoker or grill. Desserts reference English tradition, with gingerbread, trifle and bread pudding on offer along with a lovely Eton Mess fool. Cocktails are highly recommended, and The Restaurant’s wine selection is large. We suggest you perch at the gleaming bar or reserve a table near the fireplace to enjoy a long, satisfying winter meal. – C.N.

Jonathan Gayman

the restaurant at the cheshire

gérard bertrand corbières 2010 @ bar les frères wr tten by

Jennifer Johnson

Bar Les Frères’ all-French wine list isn’t extensive, it isn’t boastful nor is it expensive. It is interesting, and being at Bar Les Frères is like dining at a neighborhood bistro in a smaller city near Paris, with a sense that the proprietor hand-selects each wine quickly, confidently and with her relatively adventurous patron in mind.

Nothing quite as savory as our sixteen-ounce

Prime New York Strip

The Gérard Bertrand Corbières 2010 is a Grenache-Syrah blend from Corbières, a sub-region of France’s Mediterranean-lined Languedoc-Roussillon. It has an appealing Old World-meets-New World style that suits as a pre-dinner cocktails with friends or to enhance the French-spiced, full-flavored juiciness of the Toulouse sausage with potato pancake and red cabbage.

enhanced by a delicious brandy peppercorn sauce, fresh salad, creamy garlic mashed potatoes and Rose Bud Salad.

Much like the region in which it lies, Corbières is vast in size, topography and climate. Recent investments in winemaking, planting of better varieties and support from American importers advocating this region’s potential have yielded many shining stars these days. Solidly structured with black currant aromas, the wine’s black pepper, herb and soft vanilla notes extend through the finish. It underscores Bar Les Frères’ hearty dishes, such as the duck confit with Brussels sprouts and the filet mignon with escalloped potatoes, well.

Conveniently located in Kirkwood Dinner Hours: Tues.-Sun. 5 p.m.

133 West Clinton Place St. Louis, MO 63122 314-965-9005

7637 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.725.8880

Q. What makes Truffles steaks so great? A. Our in-house dry aging program with all prime beef cooked to perfection in our 1600 degree infra-red broiler.

Chef Brandon Benack,

Watch a behind the scenes video with the chef. Simply scan the QR Code in the right hand corner of this ad.

Executive Chef of Truffles Restaurant

Lunch Tues.-Fri. 11-2pm • Dinner Tues.-Sat. 5pm • Bar open 3pm

9202 Clayton Rd., St. Louis, MO 63124 314.567.9100 •

Granite City


Corey Woodruff

Food and Brewery

St. Louis-based wine enthusiast Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist, and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine.

Q: What would you say are a couple of guest favorite entrees on your menu? A. Our guests love our made from scratch soups, sauces, etc... we obviously take pride in cleanliness, but the quality of food and handcrafted beer are what we are known for, so there are a lot of favorites. A few of the more notable entrees would be our Chicken and Asparagus Linguini, Maple Pepper Bacon Flatbread, and our assortment of signature burgers.

Eric Gielau Culinary Partner Scan the code below to see a behind the scenes interview!

11411 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, MO 63141 314-432-3535

Inspired Food Culture

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the rustic goat The use of the word rustic in its name belies The Rustic Goat’s sophisticated, modern design. The restaurant and lounge’s space takes full advantage of its urban location and is open and industrial, with concrete, glass and wood the dominant materials used throughout the layout. Pithy sayings and well-placed graphics are peppered on the walls, unifying the restaurant’s visual concept. The contrast of modern and rustic extends to The Rustic Goat’s menu, where contemporary dishes like the lobster napoleon with silky avocado and sweet roasted corn are offered alongside plates of Southern comfort food, chicken and waffles a particular standout, with the crispy, salty chicken perfectly offset by rich maple syrup. Live music, a bustling bar, a pool table and a huge open kitchen add life and warmth to the cool industrial setting, making the Goat a welcoming urban oasis. – C.N.


Corey Woodruff

2617 Washington Ave., Downtown, 314.371.4031



snack mixes

Marina & Riviera

Whether you’re curled up on the sofa watching a Rams game or simply satisfying a craving for something crunchy, these locally made mixes always hit the spot. – B.W.

Join publisher Cat Neville, in partnership with Altair Travel, for our second annual Oceania culinary cruise. This year's trip takes you to Scandinavia, the world's newest center of culinary innovation. You'll travel from Copenhagen to Stockholm with a threeday stop in St. Petersburg.


BALTIC ODYSSEY CRUISE September 3 to 13, 2013 10 Day Baltic Odyssey sailing on the Marina on September 3, departing from Copenhagen, Denmark, and includes the ports of Warnemunde (Berlin, Germany), Gdansk, Poland: Tallin, Estonia; St. Petersburg, Russia where the ship will overnight for two nights; Helsinki, Finland; and ends in Stockholm, Sweden where it will overnight one night.

IN THE BAG: nuts, seeds, dried fruit & chocolate

CALL THE OCEANIA CRUISES SPECIALISTS AT ALTAIR TRAVEL & CRUISES TODAY (314) 968-9600 or TOLL FREE (800) 264-1116 *“Free Airfare” promotion does not include ground transfers and applies to economy, round-trip flights only from the following Oceania Cruises Primary Air Gateways ATL, BOS, ORD, DEN, DFW, EWR, IAH, LAX, MIA, IAD, JFK, MCO, PHL, PHX, SAN, SEA, SFO, TPA, YUL, YYC, YYZ, YVR. Airfare is available from all other U.S. & Canadiangateways at an additional charge. Any advertised fares that include the “Free Airfare” promotion include airline fees, surcharges and government taxes. Some airlineimposed personal charges, including but not limited to baggage, priority boarding, and special seating, may apply. Oceania Cruises reserves the right to correct errorsor omissions and to change any and all fares, fees, and surcharges at any time. Additional terms and conditions may apply. Complete terms and conditions may befound in the Guest Ticket Contract. Ships’ Registry Marshall Islands. PRO27773

falling in love … in five courses IN THE BAG: pretzels, peanuts & cereal bites

Saturday, February 9, 2013 6:30 p.m., Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis

Experience the Culinary Delights of Celebrity Chef Michael Mina during his first St. Louis visit! IN THE BAG: seasoned almonds, cashews & pecans

| 1 | Grandma’s Nuts original mix with chocolate, $8.99; Straub’s, multiple locations, | 2 | Mom’s Originals Mom’s Mix, $2.85; Miss M’s Candy Boutique, 6193 Delmar Blvd., The Loop, | 3 | Whataya Nuts Parmesan-cracked pepper mix, $4.99; Jennifer’s Pharmacy, 30 N. Central Ave., Clayton, PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman

Event will benefit St. Louis Community College’s students and educational programs. Call 314-539-5472 or visit

������ � ������ ����� � ��������� � ����� ������ � ������� ������� � ������ ������� � ���� ������� ����� � ���� �����������

Inspired Food Culture

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griffin delivery wr tten by Brandon Chuang

Andy Heaslet isn’t that different from a lot of young guys in St. Louis. He loves riding his bike, supporting local business and eating pizza from the comfort of his couch. And Heaslet has created a viable business model built on these ideals.

Photography by

J. Pollack Photography

Griffin Delivery is Heaslet’s baby. Serving Downtown and South City, the bike-based service orders, picks up and delivers food to you from a variety of mom-and-pop restaurants in those areas. “We’re breathing new life into an old tradition by making bikes a viable means for earning a living again,” says Heaslet. He notes that along with helping to create jobs and being environmentally sound, his service is as fast as, if not faster than, your typical four-wheeled delivery. It has to be in order to compete. And that means Heaslet hires only the most skilled couriers. “In St. Louis you have to ride in zero degrees when it’s sleeting as well as 100 degrees with 90 percent humidity,” he says. “You can get a good feel for [someone’s riding abilities] when they’re trying to carry on a conversation in the middle of rush hour.” 314.270.2276


J a n ua ry 2 0 1 3

Not valid for persons on Missouri Disassociated Persons or Excluded lists or who have been otherwise excluded from Lumière Place, River City or other Pinnacle Entertainment properties. Must be age 21 or older to gamble. Gambling problem? Call 1.888.BETSOFF. ©2013 Pinnacle Entertainment, Inc. All rights reserved.

Join us Monday, January 21, at ���� STEAK HOUSE to celebrate the 70th Anniversary of the Campbell House Museum. Enjoy an eight-course Victorian feast inspired by Virginia Campbell’s 19th century cookbook.

For reservations, call 314.421.0325.

sweet katie bee’s cupcake and coffee bar Is there anything sweeter than a motherdaughter cupcake shop? After decades of working in corporate offices, Kate Hendrix and her daughter Beth Hendrix decided to go into business together and open Sweet Katie Bee’s Cupcake and Coffee Bar. The shabby-chic shop in O’Fallon, Ill., serves fresh-baked cupcakes made with organic and sustainable ingredients alongside locally roasted Goshen coffees and housemade gourmet ciders and cocoas. Two constants on the cupcake menu are Vanilla Bean Cloud (vanilla cake filled with vanilla whipped cream and topped with vanilla meringue buttercream) and Beth’s Chocolate (rich, Valrhona cocoa cupcake filled with whipped cream and finished with dark chocolate buttercream). The latter makes a perfectly indulgent pairing with Gabe’s Fleur de sel Mocha, featuring housemade salted caramel syrup. Every delectable day at Sweet Katie Bee’s brings a bevy of new specialty cupcakes from pastry chef Karolyn Page. If you see them scribbled on the daily menu board, be sure to try the Italian Cream (vanilla-pecan-coconut cake topped with cream cheese icing and toasted coconut), the Mojito (rum-lime-mint cake filled with custard and topped with buttercream featuring the flavors from the cake) and the 3-Chile Chocolate (chocolate cake flavored with red pepper flakes and cayenne and topped with chile-and-anchospiked buttercream). We recommend stocking up on a variety of flavors to share with friends. This way you can leave with a beautiful ribbonwrapped box in one hand, a soul-warming Mayan hot cocoa in the other and a very big smile on your face. – B.W. 212 E. State St., O’Fallon, Ill., 618.622.9930,


drenched in a mixture of sweet espresso and coffee liqueur topped with mascarpone-whipped cream icing and a dusting of cocoa. For a simple pleasure, enjoy it with an Americano or a tall glass of milk. | 2 | Apple Maple Bacon is a heavenly combo of salty and sweet. Chunky apple cake is flecked with pecans and cinnamon and topped with maple cream cheese frosting, candied bacon and a drizzle of maple syrup. It goes great with caramel apple cider. | 3 | Bananas Foster is a banana-vanilla bean cake topped with brown butter frosting, caramel drizzle and a banana chip. Try it with Tiger Spice chai.






PHOTOGRAPHy by Corey Woodruff

| 1 | Tiramisu features Italian spongecake

• • • • • • • • • • •


• •


• • •

Alton Sports Tap Bossanova Castelli’s at 255 Franco’s Restaurant Gentelin’s on Broadway My Just Desserts Rib City Alton State Street Market Olga’s Kitchen Grafton Winery and Brewhaus Mississippi Half Step Pere Marquette Lodge Aunt Sam’s Uptown Eatery Chez Marilyn Johnson’s Corner Tony’s Restaurant

Dine with us during the 2nd annual Alton Restaurant Week. Starting Friday, January 18, many of the locallyowned restaurants in Alton will come together to offer diners a taste of some of their best menu items. For diners, there are no passes to buy, coupons to carry or cards to punch. We ask that you simply pull up a chair and join us for a great meal for lunch or dinner, offered at a fixed price, at the participating restaurant of your choice January 18 – 27. Lunch is $10 (plus tax and gratuity) and dinner is $25 (plus tax and gratuity).

(800) 258-6645 1-800-ALTON-IL |

RestauRant Week special OffeR



It's Lunch Time at

Open 7 days a week 11 am to 4 pm

lunch special includes your choice of soup, sandwich and one of our special desserts!

Offer good (January 18th - 27th)!

We are famous for our homemade pies, ½ pound chicken salad sandwiches and our tollhouse brownies....just to name a few! We serve a variety of soups, salads and sandwiches.

Located on the Lincoln Legacy Trail 31 E Broadway, Alton, IL 62002 618-462-5881 •

Join us for

Alton Restaurant Week

Visit our website to view our menu & sign up for a chance to win a


2500 Gift Card

Only 25 minutes from St. Louis 255 N. IL to Fosterburg Rd. Exit 13.

3400 Fosterburg Rd. • Alton, IL 618.462.4620 •

Open at 11am Daily for Lunch and Dinner (Closed Mondays)


www.thegraftonwinery .com



$10 Per Person

(Glass of Wine, Beer, Tea or Soda Included)

choice of Pasta • Penne with Sicilian Meat Sauce • Fettuccine Alfredo • Shrimp Alfredo • Chicken Carbonara (Penne Pasta with Chicken, Bacon and Mushrooms in a Pink Alfredo Sauce)

• Pasta Italiano (Penne Pasta With Italian Sausage And Bacon In A Basil Herb Cream Sauce)


$25 For Two People

(Glass of Wine, Beer, Tea or Soda Included)

choice of One Pasta Per Person & Side Salad • Penne with Sicilian Meat Sauce • Fettuccine Alfredo • Shrimp Alfredo • Chicken Carbonara (Penne Pasta with Chicken, Bacon And Mushrooms In A Pink Alfredo Sauce)

• Pasta Italiano (Penne Pasta With Italian Sausage And Bacon In A Basil Herb Cream Sauce) and Side Salad

The Lodge at

Pere Marquette

& the #1 St. Louis website

proudly support

Alton Restaurant Week

World’s Apart...Minutes Away

My Valentine Package

Eagle Watcher’s Package

Starting at $109

Two nights only $75 per person

Have your vows renewed in front of the fireplace, dance the night away and retreat to your cabin or lodge room where roses, champagne and chocolates await you. Available February 14th, 15th and 16th. Restrictions apply.

Join us and spot our nations’ majestic symbol along the bluffs of the Great River Road. This package includes a $20 voucher for the Lodge Restaurant, Grafton area specials and a map of area Eagle watching hotspots. Restrictions apply.

Gourmet Duck A L’Orange Wine Dinner • February 20th Paranormal Investigation • February 22nd Folk Festival • March 3rd Restaurant Week • Fried Chicken Specials Starting at $10 per person

Call 618-786-2331 or visit for full details. Inspired Food Culture

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lemon sorbet |3| Benjamin Moore’s Color of the Year for 2013 is lemon sorbet, a buttery pastel yellow that happens to look as great on these kitchen wares as it will on your kitchen walls. For a tasty visual combination, pair lemon sorbet with shades from the mint and vanilla families. – B.W.






| 1 | Chalkboard spice jar, $7; Anthropologie, St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, | 2 | Melamine reamer, $3.95; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, | 3 | Dualit yellow four-slice toaster, $319.95; Sur La Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable. com | 4 | Laguiole steak knife set, $78; Anthropologie | 5 | Marin yellow oval platter, $24.95; Crate & Barrel | 6 | Modernist serving bowl, $16; West Elm,



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downtown STL • la salle park • lafayette square • • 314.599.3100 •

New Beginnings at Local Harvest! Get a fresh start in the new year. Throughout January join Local Harvest Grocery and Cafe for classes to help you create a healthy body and mind. Discover the Paleo Diet, Sprouting Fermented Foods, Detoxing Teas and Beverages, and more! Check our website for classes and sign up for our e-mail specials and recipes. Classes and tastings by local vendors include: Traveling Tea, The Organic Cave, Blissoma, and Gringo George Follow us on Facebook and Twitter: @localharveststl

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After Christmas Clearance Sale Experience our world of enchantment! Our Selection of exclusive vendors will satisfy the most discriminating tastes. From contemporary to ultra posh to whimsical and old world, you will find it here. Simply unique and exclusive gift items, jewelry and boutique apparel will give you confidence to express your own taste and lifestyle. Need help? We have professional Interior Designer's to help you create your style. 50% Off on All Christmas Home Decor and Holiday Items.

12133 Manchester Rd. • Des Peres • 314.821.5557 • Inspired Food Culture

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Co-founder, owner, Pappy’s Smokehouse

mike (pappy) emerson

written by Catherine Neville Photography by Jonathan Gayman

“It’s been a life full of wonderful restaurant experiences working with some well-known St. Louis restaurant families, like the Slays and the Del Pietros,” says Mike (Pappy) Emerson, co-founder and owner of Pappy’s Smokehouse. Emerson continues, saying that his “second act includes friendships and collaboration with some of the best chefs, brewers, bakers and food writers this city has ever seen.” Emerson is a connector, a person who unites people. His gregarious presence has helped solidify a feeling of camaraderie and collaboration that is now a hallmark of the St. Louis food scene. When you opened Pappy’s, what were your expectations? I wish I had a recording of my opening-day speech. I stood in front of my little band of four, with my partner John Matthews, and told them, “If we can feed 50 people a day, this should work.” I think we fed 70, and I felt like we were gonna be OK. The two things that have not changed since that first day: our commitment to always serve the very best barbecue we can and to treat every customer like a friend. Did you ever imagine you’d receive recognition on such a huge, national scale? I don’t think anyone could say they expected the recognition we’ve received. It’s truly humbling, but it also sets an extremely high bar for us. We never want to disappoint anyone, and it can be very intimidating when someone says, “I drove here from Chicago” or, “I flew from New York” to try our barbecue. It’s an honor to receive the attention. And I feel my team rises to the occasion every single day. How can we further support the scene’s expansion and maturation? We recently had the First Annual Sous Chef Challenge at Kitchen Conservatory. It put a group of St. Louis’ “ones to watch” in the same room together. While it was a competition, there were ideas exchanged and bonds formed between these young chefs that we’ll benefit from down the road. We have to continue to support those who are coming next. What are the keys to success? My son John always says, “Play hurt.” It has become one of my favorite sayings. The restaurant business does not allow for an off day, or even an off meal. If you want to play in the big leagues, that’s the mind-set that’s required. Keys to failure? Poor planning, being unwilling to take out the trash or wash a dish because it’s “beneath” you, and forgetting that, at the end of the day, we’re all here to serve. What do you wish you knew then that you know now? How important it is to avoid yelling. I still have my moments, but it hurts people and accomplishes nothing. Avoid it at all costs. Advice for up-and-coming restaurant owners? Look before you leap. Listen to those who have been there, and learn from their mistakes. Don’t take yourself too seriously. Unless you invented fire, you didn’t invent cooking.



3106 Olive St., Midtown 314.535.4340 Visit to read the full interview with Mike Emerson.

Jumbo Florida Stone Crabs now available! Stone Crab season is officially under way. For a limited time only, Gerard's is carrying fresh Florida Stone Crabs along with the best Steaks, Chops, and Seafood available as well as imported pasta from Italy. With over 600 Wines from around the world, Gerard's was one of 443 restaurants worldwide to receive the Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator for the 13th year. Call now for more details. Private room available for parties up to 35. Book your holiday party now! Please support locally owned restaurants.

1153 Colonnade Center • DesPeres • 314.821.7977 •

Family owned and operated since 1967. We sharpen • Knives • Garden tools • Scissors • Lawn mower blades

• Old fashion rotary mowers • And much much more

Wide selection of Wusthof Knives, Global Knives, Victorinox Knives, AllClad Pans, Capresso Coffee Makers, Atlas Pasta Machines, Emile Henry Bakeware, USA Pan Bakeware, Vic Firth Pepper Mills, and other World Class brands. Great selection of High end Knives, Cookware, Kitchen tools and gadgets. Great Holiday specials.

Bertarelli Cutlery 1927 Marconi • Saint Louis 314.664.4005

Bertarelli Cutlery


Mystery Dinner Theatre “Nursery Crimes” Fairytale land isn’t all that it’s cracked up to be – just ask Humpty Dumpty. He didn’t fall off that wall, he was pushed! Now that we are all grown up, join us as we recall those fond memories that turn to murDer! This interactive comedy mystery will be presented with a 4-course meal to DIe for! Call for reservations 314.533.9830 Bring in this ad for $10.00 off per person. Valid thru January 2013 Not valid for groups.

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Stephanie Key

@stephkey • Inspired Food Culture

J a n ua ry 2 0 1 3


classic components

Story and recipe by Matt Seiter Photography by Jonathan Gayman

I’ve read more stories about the origin of this classic than scientists have held debates on the origins of the universe. Some say the Manhattan was created at the Manhattan Club in New York for Gov. Tilden’s election win. Like the histories of most drinks, the truth has been lost to the annals of time, and all that remains is speculation. So let’s set aside the story and instead focus on the recipe. In cocktail research, one consistently comes across discrepancies in recipes from one book to the next. With the Manhattan, I’ve seen recipes with more vermouth than whiskey or more whiskey than vermouth, as well as the inclusion of absinthe, maraschino liqueur, Angostura bitters, orange bitters and even orange curaçao. But in all Manhattan recipes you’ll find three basic ingredients: whiskey, vermouth and bitters. Personally, I prefer a good 100-proof rye or bourbon to stand up to the sweetness and thickness of some vermouths. Rittenhouse Rye or Heaven Hill Gold Label Bonded Bourbon are both great in Manhattans. Of the many choices, three sweet vermouths (written as “Italian vermouths” in older bar books) stand above the rest. My go-to vermouth is Cocchi di Torino. Its sweetness and herbal qualities are well-balanced, and it’s not as thick as some. Carpano Antica has large amounts of vanilla and baking spice notes and a thickness well-suited to fall and winter drinking. And last but not least, Quady Vya. This vermouth is made in Canada and, like Cocchi di Torino, is well-balanced. It’s just a bit thicker than the Cocchi. When it comes to bitters, Angostura is the staple in most bars. If you can find a bottle of The Bitter Truth Jerry Thomas’ Own Decanter Bitters, use that. It’s my favorite in Manhattans and Old-Fashioneds. When you bring all these ingredients together, you have one of my favorite Manhattan recipes to date.

Manhattan Whiskey is whiskey, right?

Serves | 1 |

Wrong. There are vast differences in the styles of whiskey you’ll find

County Process (filtered through maple charcoal before aging). Rye

on the shelves of your favorite liquor store.

whiskey is made from at least 51 percent rye, and it has to be aged at least two years in new charred oak barrels. Bonded whiskey comes

Bourbon can be made in any state. Its mash bill is at least 51 percent

from a single distillery and must be aged for at least four years. It’s

corn, but corn does not exceed 80 percent. Barley, wheat and rye make

bottled at 100 proof, and taxes aren’t paid until the whiskey is sold

up the remainder. It’s aged in new, charred oak barrels for a minimum of

and “released from bond.” Blended American whiskey is made from

two years. Like Tennessee whiskey and rye whiskey, bourbon must be

a minimum of 20 percent straight whiskey with the remainder being

distilled at no higher than 160 proof and bottled at no less than 80 proof.

neutral grain spirit. It can be and most often is aged in used barrels.

Tennessee whiskey is made in the state of Tennessee. Its mash bill is

In Canadian whiskey, half of the blend must be from a neutral grain

at least 51 percent corn, but corn does not exceed 79 percent. Barley,

spirit. It is primarily rye, or a blend of ryes, and tends to be malted.

wheat and rye make up the rest of the mash bill. It’s aged in new, charred

Additives usually consist of fig juice, sherry, molasses and caramel.

oak barrels for a minimum of two years. And it goes through the Lincoln

Minimum aging is three years in any type of barrel.

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.



2 oz Rittenhouse Rye or Heaven Hill Gold Label Bonded Bourbon 1 oz Cocchi di Torino Italian Vermouth 2 dashes The Bitter Truth Jerry Thomas’ Own Decanter Bitters orange peel

| Preparation | Combine rye or bourbon, vermouth, and bitters in a mixing glass. Add cracked ice and stir for 25 to 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Twist a slice of orange peel over the drink, discard the peel and serve.



Suntrup Buick • GMC 4200 N. Service Rd. • I-70 and Cave Springs 639-939-0800 • *See dealer for details. Ad vehicle not compatible with any other dealer promotions.



written by Michael Sweeney

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

Sierra Nevada Brewing Co.’s Bigfoot

Hibiki 12

AVAILABLE AT: The Wine Merchant, 20 S Hanley

Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd com; $13 99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) Pairings: Deep-dish pizza• Chocolate-orange mousse cake Drunk fresh, Bigfoot is a monster of a beer with a hop bite that can rip your tongue apart. But if you have the patience, buy enough to let it age. A six- or seven-year vertical of this beer is an eye-opening experience. It’s fascinating to see the peaks and valleys that the beer travels through as it ages.

Morgan Street Brewery’s Black Bear STYLE: Schwarzbier (4 6% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Morgan Street Brewery,

721 N Second St , Laclede’s Landing; $5 (16-oz draught) Pairings: Pork tenderloin• Crab cake Don’t let this beer deceive you: While it’s as dark in color as a stout, this beer is as light on the palate as a pilsner. A schwarzbier is an old German style that uses enough dark-roasted malt to create a rich black color but not so much that it’s too roasty. This is a light-bodied lager that features a deep maltiness while remaining very easy to drink.

North Coast Brewing Co.’s Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout STYLE: Russian Imperial Stout (9% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Friar Tuck, multiple locations,

friartuckonline com; $9 99 (four-pack, 12-oz bottles) Pairings: Chocolate ice cream• Grilled rib-eye We’re always on the hunt for the latest and most highly sought-after beers. Sometimes we forget about the fantastic beers that are always available. North Coast’s Old Rasputin is one of the finest imperial stouts being made. The fact that this beer, which features huge chocolate and espresso notes, is available year-round makes it a winner.


written by Chad Michael George

The creator of and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

STYLE: American Barleywine (9 6% abv)



Provenance: Japan (43% abv) Available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations,

wineandcheeseplace com; $54 99 Try it: With a few drops of water or over a big rock of ice Hibiki 12 is one of the best examples of a topnotch blended Scotch whisky that’s not from Scotland. Single malts are blended with grain whiskies of the same age in this great bottling. There are tasty sweet floral notes, a touch of pepper, spices and great tart citrus notes with a touch of soft fruits, likely from the plumliqueur casks Hibiki is finished in.

Crème Yvette Provenance: France (40% abv) Available at: The Wine Merchant, 20 S Hanley Road,

Clayton, winemerchantltd com; $21 99 Try it: As an addition to your favorite margarita recipe or in an Aviation You may hear bartenders refer to an ingredient as his or her “ketchup” or “spice rack,” a spirit that makes so many tasty cocktails. Crème Yvette is one such liqueur. Yvette went out of production in the 1960s, but the creators of St.-Germain have resurrected it. Violet petals are prominent, but you’ll also taste blackberries, red raspberries, strawberries and cassis. Touches of honey, orange peel and vanilla help create a smooth and silky violet liqueur.

Beefeater 24 Gin Provenance: London (45% abv) Available at: Randall’s Wine & Spirits, multiple

locations, shoprandalls com; $23 99 Try it: With soda and a squeeze of lime or in your favorite gin cocktail The original Beefeater gin is a benchmark of the London Dry style, but the good folks at the distillery wanted to do something new. Enter 24. That’s the number of hours that its 12 botanicals are steeped in the distillate before Desmond Payne distills the gin once more. The usual botanicals are present, but some rare additions include Japanese sencha tea and Chinese green tea. Even at a high alcohol percentage, the quality shines through with a smooth mouth feel.


written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

Locations E 2011 Provenance: Spain Available at: Veritas Gateway to Food and

Wine, 1722 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, veritasgateway com; $32 Pairings: Braised meats• Manchego• Sausages From the mind behind the highly acclaimed Orin Swift label comes the Locations series. The winemaker introduces you to a country through one bottle of wine by selecting the best varieties from specific regions and blending them together. The first to be released is E (for España, meaning Spain), featuring Garnacha, Carignan and Tempranillo. Give this wine a little breathing time to reveal its layers of ripe plum, warm spice and subtle oak.

Michel Gassier Cercius Blanc 2011 Provenance: France Available at: Naked Vine, 1624 Clarkson Road,

Chesterfield, nakedvine net; $12 99 Pairings: Goat cheese• Shellfish• Herb-roasted chicken Break out of the winter-weather blues with this bright and fruity fusion of Grenache Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc. Zesty citrus tones awaken your palate while the wine maintains an attractive elegance through sweet pineapple notes and medium-bodied structure. Hints of flowers, greenery and stone finish this fresh yet aromatic white.

Bethlehem Valley Norton 2006 Provenance: Marthasville, Mo Available at: Saint Louis Cellars, 2640 Big Bend

Blvd , Maplewood, saintlouiscellars com; $23 99 Pairings: Game• Blackened fish or chicken• Smoked cheeses Missouri’s most well-known grape, Norton, can be somewhat of a powerhouse when released too young. Through this producer’s practices of later-than-normal harvest and almost two years of oak aging followed by another year in the bottle, this intense variety is allowed enough time to soften and mature. The result is a robust yet velvety wine that is rich with blackberry fruit and notes of peppery spice.

Inspired Food Culture

J a n ua ry 2 0 1 3



written by Erik Jacobs Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

What kind of oil is emerald green, has a pleasant aroma and flavor, is high in hearthealthy monounsaturated fats, and can reach temperatures up to 520ºF before smoking? Although olive oil is a very good guess, avocado oil transcends the health and cooking benefits of olive oil, going from the vinaigrette bowl to the wok without missing a beat. What is it?

Avocado oil is pressed from the flesh of the avocado, not its pit. It has a buttery texture on the tongue and a slightly nutty flavor. There are many who dislike the intense fruitiness of olive oil, and for those folks, avocado oil is a welcome addition. Dieters seeking cooking fats with high levels of omega-9 fatty acids and monounsaturated fats will find avocado oil is an essential addition to their pantries. Where avocado oil really stands out is in its ability to cook at very high temperatures. Whether in its first (extra-virgin) pressing or more refined, avocado oil offers a convenience that few other oils do. How do I use it?

The smoke point of an oil refers to the temperature at which it begins to smoke. Brilliant! However, when an oil reaches this point, it begins to change at a molecular level into compounds that are less healthy to ingest. Oils with high smoke points, therefore, are more beneficial to use when stir-frying, deep-frying or sautéing. A refined avocado oil (not extra-virgin) has a smoke point around 500ºF, giving it one of the highest available for cooking. Keeping this hip and hot new oil on hand will poise you as a foodie on the front lines of cool.

East-Meets-West Guacamole Dumplings with ChaCha Chile Sauce By Jean Ann Mantia, Schoemehl’s South Side Grill

Crispy on the outside, soft and creamy on the inside, these dumplings work well as an appetizer or as a side dish with chilis, stews, fajitas or tacos. Serves | 12 |

½ cup

½ cup ¼ cup 1½ tsp 1½ tsp 1½ tsp

ripe avocados diced tomatoes diced red onion granulated garlic granulated onion kosher salt

Stop by 30

¼ cup 1 Tbsp ½ tsp 1 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 1 Tbsp

salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste lime juice, to taste

| Preparation − Dumplings | Peel and chop

Chile Sauce

Dumplings 4 large

3 Tbsp chopped cilantro lime juice 24 to 30 won ton wrappers* 1½ Tbsp avocado oil

avocado oil rice wine vinegar freshly grated ginger red pepper flakes orange juice honey chopped cilantro

avocados into ½-inch pieces. Mix gently with tomatoes and red onion. Add granulated garlic, granulated onion, salt and cilantro. Add lime juice to taste. Turn carefully to blend. Place 1 Tbsp guacamole into the center of each won ton wrapper. Fold corner to corner and pinch together, making a small purse shape. Moisten

with water to seal. Heat the avocado oil in a 10-inch skillet until a drop of water skitters on the surface. Gently lower prepared dumplings into the skillet and sauté until golden-brown.

| Preparation − Chile Sauce | In a small bowl, whisk all ingredients together. Serve alongside won tons for dipping. Store any unused sauce, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. * This recipe makes at least 24 dumplings, generally more. Most packages contain more than 24 won ton wrappers.

to pick up more delicious recipes featuring avocado oil. Visit for information on its four locations. JANUARY 2013

check it out!

Feast extra

Fun Food, Happy People, Great Drinks! FEAST FAVE • Cleveland Heath Chicken Wings Crispy, Sweet, Spicy VOTED BEST NEW RESTAURANT - 2012 by the RIVERFRONT TIMES VOTED FAVORITE NEW RESTAURANT - 2012 by SAUCE MAGAZINE Mon-Fri 11:00-close, Sat 10:00-close Offering Saturday brunch First Come - First Serve (No reservations) Open Mon - Fri starting at 11 am and Sat starting at 10 am

106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville • 618.307.4830

You can't beat our meat! For over 81 years, the Wenneman family business has been a tradition for many people in the St. Louis Metropolitan area. With total commitment to customer satisfaction as their primary objective, we place great emphasis on product quality and customer service. Wenneman Meat Company is a full service, federally inspected, old fashioned butcher shop and meat market. We produce a complete line of our own meat, deli and poultry products. Our formulations and recipes have been passed down for generations, and remain unchanged, while continuing to grow our product lines.

Retail and Wholesale

7415 State Rt 15 • St. Libor y, IL • 618.768.4328 •

Celebrate your heritage Taste and discover authentic German dishes and traditional family recipes reminiscent of "Bavaria". Celebrate your heritage, a special occasion, or just sit back and relax in a unique atmosphere. Specialty Bier: Spaten, Optimator, Celebrator, Bajuvator, Warsteiner, Paulaner, Franziskaner, Tucher, Bitburger, Weihenstephaner, Korbinian, Erdinger, Ayinger Jahrhundert, Dunkel Hefe, Vitus... "Bier Flights" and "Towers" available. Live music every 2nd & 4th Saturday • Groups welcome Tues-Fri 11-2 & 5-9, Sat & Sun 5-9. Closed on Mondays.

1415 McKinley St. • Mascoutah • 618.566.4884 • roemer

Monogram It! Embroider It! Vinyl It! Screen Print It! Welcome to the most UNIQUE ideas for gifts you will ever encounter. Offering customized services on many items. Including school spirit wear & custom apparel. Personalize your gift giving! UniQue Ideas offers gift baskets, home & holiday decor, car & wall monograms, monogrammed jewelry and great entertainment pieces. We truly have gifts for every occasion! Remember us for: Weddings • Baby Showers • Birthdays • Graduations • Anniversaries • Baptisms • Bachelorette Parties... or just because! M-Th 10-7 Fri. 10-5 Sat. 9-4

•Personalized Gift Boutique•

58 Fenton Plaza • Fenton • 636.343.2200 • Inspired Food Culture

J a n ua ry 2 0 1 3



Story and recipe by Cassy Vires Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Consommé is fairly costly and timeconsuming, which may be the reason few restaurants feature it on their menus anymore. Broth as a $16 appetizer is not a clear value to diners. However, the work, cost and time are all worth it when you taste the rich flavor, full body and intensity that a well-made consommé brings. The trick is in the clarity of the broth. A consommé with sediment or bits of oil on the surface isn’t worth the bones used to make it. Getting all of the fat and impurities to gather together is the most important step. Incorporating egg whites is the classic way of doing this. The proteins in the egg whites come together, gathering any bits and pieces in the liquid along the way, and form a floating mass called a raft. Creating a successful raft is key to creating a proper consommé. If your raft falls apart, you might as well start over. Temperature plays a big role in creating the raft. Start with cold ingredients and add heat gradually, giving the proteins time to come together naturally. If the temperature is too high, the raft will never come together. If the temperature is too low, bits and pieces will be left behind. Next you have to make sure you incorporate enough flavor into the broth. Spices, herbs and traditional mirepoix in combination with some sort of meat or savory vegetable are all it takes. Gently basting the raft with the broth will help extract as much flavor as possible, but for an even more robust flavor, double consommé can be made by doubling the weight of the main protein while leaving the remaining ingredients the same. Depending on the type of protein used, double consommés become very luscious and gelatinous in texture. A modern technique for clarifying consommés, especially double, is called gelatin clarification or filtration. This involves incorporating gelatin powder into the base and then freezing, melting and straining the liquid. This process takes a few days but leaves the remaining liquid clear and gelatinfree. It’s a controversial method because the remaining consommé lacks much of the desired mouthfeel of a traditionally prepared one. However, it is foolproof. The last step in a successful consommé is the easiest − the garnish. There are a dozen or so traditional French garnishes, but this is where we can make the consommé modern. Traditionally, a game consommé would be garnished with fresh mushrooms, but instead try a ricotta ravioli, steamed mussels or foie mousse. Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen. She received her culinary training in Houston and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.



Veal Consommé

This is a very basic recipe, as the true art of making a great consommé is in the skill, not the recipe. Once you master the technique, try your hand at some more complex flavor combinations.

Yield | 1 gallon | 10 egg whites 1 lb mirepoix 3 lbs ground veal 8 oz tomato purée 1 gallon fresh veal or beef stock, chilled 1 bouquet garni* salt

| Preparation | Make sure all ingredients are kept cold until ready to use. In a medium bowl, lightly whip the egg whites until frothy. | 1 | Combine the whites with the mirepoix, ground veal and tomato purée. Combine with stock in a tall stockpot and stir. Add the bouquet garni and place over medium heat. Very slowly bring

to a simmer until the raft begins to form. This should occur at around 120°F to 125°F.

| 2 | Once the raft forms, adjust the heat so that only the occasional bubble rises to the top. Simmer for 90 minutes. | 3 | Meanwhile, carefully create a hole in the center of the raft with enough space to allow in a small ladle. Periodically ladle a small amount of the liquid over the raft. Take great care not to break apart the raft, as this will cause the soup to become cloudy. Using a slotted spoon or skimmer, carefully remove the raft and discard. Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth. Place the liquid in the

refrigerator overnight. Once chilled, any remaining fats will congeal on the surface, making them easy to skim from the top. | 4 | If time doesn’t allow for the liquid to chill overnight, gently skim the surface of the liquid with a paper towel, absorbing any remaining bits of fat. Gently reheat the soup and season with salt as needed. Serve traditionally in a saucer and garnish with thin slices of mushroom. For best results, do not reheat the consommé more than once. * Bouquet garni is a bundle of fresh herbs − typically parsley, thyme, rosemary, peppercorns and bay leaf − tied into a cheesecloth packet with butcher’s twine.

 


  

Our Schnucks Cooks how-to videos are full of tips and techniques from our team of culinary experts. If you want to learn more, check out our video library at You’ll also find a variety of Schnucks Cooks recipes for quick, easy and affordable meal solutions. At our in-store Schnucks Cooks stations, our experienced Cooking Coaches will demonstrate how to cook our featured recipes and sample them for you to try! You’ll find all the ingredients and cooking equipment for each recipe next to our Schnucks Cooks station in select stores.


How To Braise Braising is the perfect cooking technique for tougher cuts of meat. You sear the meat then simmer in stock to tenderize it. Watch our step-by-step how-to video online to see how to make our succulent Braised Beef Short Ribs in Red Wine. Here are a few steps to get started.



The best cuts of meat to use: beef chuck, brisket, short ribs, lamb shank and pork shoulder.

overInmedium large heavy Dutch oven, heat oil  Bring liquid to a boil, then reduce heat. In batches, place ribs heat to a simmer. Cover pot to trap in Dutch oven in single layer. Cook until ribs are well browned on all sides; transfer to plate.

steam inside.

Visit for Schnucks Cooks videos, recipes, locations, our monthly newsletter and more! ©2012 Schnucks

|4| Inspired Food Culture

J a n ua ry 2 0 1 3


fine strainers

10-inch Filter Cone Holder and Filter Cones PROS

I went to Session to buy an inexpensive stainless-steel chinois, but instead I was persuaded to try this one-task wonder tool, even though it’s not designed to strain stock. What we’ve got here is a grease filter that strains 5 quarts of stock at once with no particulate or sediment. Turn the filter inside out, place it in the cone, fold the top of the filter over the edge and ladle in bones, vegetables, herbs and all. Clear stock. No mess. CONS

The holder is bulky. It easily hangs from a hook, but it is a presence. And the filters take up some shelf space. $12.19 for the holder and $9.73 for 50 filter cones; Session Fixture Co., Inc., 6044 Lemay Ferry Road, Oakville,

Good Cook Touch 8-inch Strainer

Mesh Strainers, Set of 2



With its stainless-steel bowl and heavy-duty plastic handle and rim, this inexpensive, utilitarian tool gives good value for the money. It’s strong enough to handle bones and big chunks of stock with a few passes. The chunky handle provides a comfortable hold. It’s easy to reserve cooking water from pasta by resting the strainer on a second pot and pouring the water off.

You get a 5.5-inch and a 7.9-inch strainer for under eight bucks. The small strainer uses the same gauge mesh as the larger one, but it’s shaped into a tighter sieve, perfect for dusting powdered sugar over cakes and cookies. The mesh is only single-ply, but all types of rice and most grains stay in the bowl during rinsing. About 1 teaspoon of tiny red quinoa and amaranth are lost from 1 cup of grain.


The rim doesn’t clamp down as tightly as it does in all-metal models. Water gets trapped in the race around the bowl. Remember to turn the tool rightside-up after washing it to allow the water to run out.


$6.29; Schnucks, multiple locations,

$7.99; World Market, multiple locations,

The metal is unspecified. The website gives no information about the metal, either, so expect to hand-wash and carefully dry this product after each use.

written by Pat Eby Photography by Jonathan

OXO Good Grips 8-inch Double Rod Strainer

Fine Mesh 6-inch Stainless Strainer PROS


OXO constructed this stainless-steel strainer with an 8-inch double-mesh bowl to tackle big tasks, such as filtering stock, with ease. The two-ply screen locks in small particulates very well. A comfortable nonslip grip keeps you and the strainer well-connected. Designers paid special attention to the welds that hold the double rods to the bowl, securing the metals in several spots over the span of an inch on each side. Dishwasher-safe too. CONS

Chicken stock made in a 5-quart pot needs two passes to strain all the liquid. Particles sometimes get trapped between the meshes and complicates the cleanup, but that’s a small quibble with this well-made tool. $22.99; Bed Bath and Beyond, multiple locations,

Stainless-steel double mesh shapes into a sculpted cone from a sturdy stainless rim to make a strong, handsome sieve. The best strainer for making a big batch of yogurt cheese because a size 6 Melitta coffee filter fits perfectly into the cavity to allow the whey to drip through. Hearty vegetable broth in a 4-quart pot and a 3-quart pot full of pasta drain easily in one pour. Love the size for small-batch cooking jobs. CONS

Big jobs require two or more passes. Like the OXO double-screen bowl, particles get trapped between the screens and this tool needs attention to clean properly. $15.95; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton,


ck o pag ut e

What to look for : Size. Strainers range from 2 inches to 10 inches in diameter, each with

different uses. A 6- or 8-inch size will accomplish most small to mediumlarge cooking chores easily. Bowl Construction. Choose from a fine single-ply mesh, a two-ply mesh and a fine-pierced metal bowl. Match your choice to the tasks you’ll perform. Single mesh works to rinse most rices and grains. A very fine grain would benefit from double mesh. Stocks strain through all, but



more particulate and sediment come through the single mesh. Handles, loops and lips. Long handles make light work of big tasks. A secondary lip or loop opposite the handle allow you to rest the strainer over a bowl or pot. Look for a good grip and a comfortable hold on the shaft. Materials. Choose from stainless steel, tin and aluminum for the bowl. Stainless steel is often dishwasher-safe and will not rust.


Put your favorite fine strainer to work when making the veal consomme featured in this month’s Tech School column.

2013 Collector Edition Wine Rack Stickley’s 2013 Collector Edition is a multitasking 20 bottle wine rack crafted of solid cherry or quartersawn oak with an inlay of maple, walnut, pear, ebony and oak. Paired with a serving tray and storage compartment that conceals a solid cherry Stickley branded cheese board, this piece will only be made in the year 2013.

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a new year’s feast Already considered a staple of Southern cuisine, black-eyed peas are also a customary part of the traditional New Year’s Day meal in the South. They are thought to bring good luck and prosperity because of their similar appearance to coins and because the beans grow in size as they cook, suggesting that those who eat them will grow prosperous as well. In a Southern New Year’s Day spread, black-eyed peas can be found accompanied by collards, which symbolize the green of money,

Story and recipe by Tory Bahn Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

and pork, since a pig’s forward motion as it hunts and roots is symbolic of progress. This New Year’s Day menu is heavy on flavor and, in true Southern style, benefits from added butter and cream. Along with the hearty black-eyed peas, serve up creamed collard greens and pork chops, as well as crispy skillet corn bread to sop it all up. And wrap up the meal with a sweet slice of pecan pie. Bring prosperity and luck to your home this new year with a rich Southern feast.

Black-Eyed Pea Salad Serves | 4 to 6 | 1½ cups dried black-eyed peas or two 15-oz cans black-eyed peas, rinsed and drained 12 oz bacon, diced 1 cup chopped red onion 1 red bell pepper, diced 1 green bell pepper, diced 1 jalapeño, minced 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup chopped scallions ¼ cup red wine vinegar 1 Tbsp Dijon mustard ½ tsp kosher salt ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper

1/3 cup grapeseed oil 2 Tbsp unsalted butter hot sauce

| Preparation | If using dry beans, cover with cold water and soak for 6 to 8 hours. Rinse and pick over beans. In a large saucepan, add cold water to cover beans by 2 inches. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for approximately 1½ hours or until tender. Drain. In a large saucepan over medium heat, cook bacon until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon


and set aside. To the remaining bacon fat, add onion and bell peppers and cook until softened. Add jalapeño and garlic and cook until fragrant. Add scallions and reduce heat to low. Add blackeyed peas and stir to combine. In a small bowl, mix vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper and stir to combine. Slowly drizzle grapeseed oil in and whisk to emulsify. Pour dressing over black-eyed pea salad, still on low heat, and toss to coat. Add butter and stir to finish. Adjust seasoning if needed and add hot sauce to taste.

chef’s tips : Pick a Temp, Any Temp. This dish is delicious served warm or at room temperature. As ingredients mingle and meld, it will develop even more

flavor for the next day, so you can enjoy it cold as well. The Veg Version. Bacon provides added flavor and a particular smoked quality to dishes. If you want to try a vegetarian or vegan preparation, substitute bacon fat with 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil when cooking your vegetables and skip the butter at the end. In order to maintain the smoked flavor, season this dish with Salish sea salt. This salt is smoked over alderwood and provides a nice facsimile of the smokiness of bacon.


schnuckscook 314.909.1704

make the

meal: Black-Eyed Pea Salad ○ Po rk Chops ○ Cre amed Collard G reens ○ Cri spy Skillet Corn Bread ○ Pec an Pie ○

L EA r n M O RE

: Attend our coo king class and learn to prep are dried beans – with a little extra time, you can cut back on both price an d sodium cont ent of the cann ed varieties. Join us to cook perfect pork chops with cast iron and prop erly clean the p an afterward. A nd we’ll explore the delicious flavor and sup er health benefi ts of collards. ○

get hands-on: Join FEAST and Schnucks Cooks Cooking School on Wed., Jan. 16, at 6pm to make the dishes in this month’s menu. Tickets are just $35 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RSVP at 36


The Place For Steaks In St. Louis For over 30 years Tucker’s has consistently prepared top-quality American cuisine with steaks cut fresh daily. Delicious food, a relaxed and cozy atmosphere, terrific service and reasonable prices make Tucker’s what it is today … an excellent dining experience in St. Louis! Happy New Year! South • 3939 Union Rd. • 314.845.2584 Soulard • 2117 South 12th St. • 314.772.5977 West • 14282 Manchester Rd. • 636.227.8062

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M S TA TE AKE R S This year we bring you the concepts that are driving our food scene forward and highlight the people, trends and places that are setting the bar for food and drink in St. Louis. We eat in a time when consumers (as well as producers) have never been more sophisticated and the democratization of great food has created a culture of innovation and craftsmanship. Now that the doors to starting a culinary business are coming down, boundaries are a thing of the past. Creators are seeking ways to explore new ideas as well as old, to be part of a culinary community and actively shape the present and the future of American food. In St. Louis, we’re seeing this materialize in three central ways: collaboration, incubation and mobility. In this issue, we delve into these concepts, the key players in cultivating these movements and how each affects the business of food in St. Louis.

WHAT A GREAT IDEA! Great ideas pop up every day in the local food scene. Some catch on and become larger trends, while some don’t seem to get the spotlight they deserve. Sometimes that great idea comes in the form of a restaurant concept that adds a new perspective to the greater food culture of our city. Sometimes it’s an old idea that has come back around and struck us in a new and exciting way. Sometimes what’s making waves is a person who pushes boundaries. Concepts, people, places, organizations ... they all contribute to the pulse of the St. Louis culinary community. Look for these bubbles throughout the issue, each highlighting a notable aspect of local food.

Inspired Food Culture







The story of St. Louis’ burgeoning food movement is one told a meal at a time, Written by Andrew Mark Veety

cataloging the efforts of local artisans and businesspeople invested in the idea that a vital future has as much to do with changing how we eat and drink as it does with the rehabilitation of buildings and neighborhoods. The concept is simple. St. Louis is more than a place where great things can be delivered to; St. Louis is a place where great things come from. This new culture has taken time to develop, and now the region − and the rest of the nation − is taking notice. The building of businesses and focus on local pride have yielded dividends beyond those calculated in business plans and scribbled on the

backs of cocktail napkins. The most powerful realization is that a rising tide really does lift all boats, and a circle of mutual benefit is created when businesses − and, more important, people − partner with one another. From chocolate to coffee, craft beer to entire menus, the act of working together in St. Louis is building more than products for sale; it’s pairing disparate skill sets and competencies to create results and relationships that are greater than the sum of their individual parts, strengthening our community in the process. The future of our food culture is here and we are building it together.

Kitchen Kulture “Kitchen Kulture is the unlikely tale of a friendship between a line cook and a waitress” states Chris Meyer. Meyer and Mike Miller originally teamed up to create a line of food-themed T-shirts, but that quickly evolved into a totally different concept. They still sell the shirts, but Kitchen Kulture took a challenge − lack of funds for a brickand-mortar restaurant − and turned it into inspiration. The team secured a booth at Tower Grove Farmers’ Market and source at least 60 percent of the ingredients used to create their prepared foods from TGFM vendors. They procure products from farmers early in the week; prep, cook and package the dishes; and then sell the dishes each Saturday, calling attention to the farmers’ ingredients. They plate a “suggested serving” example so shoppers can understand the connection between the prepared foods and the market’s other vendors. This January the KK team will begin a series of monthly pop-up brunches at Sump. “Mike and I both think brunch is grossly overlooked in terms of coursed meals with pairings. We [plan to] do a brunch with set courses with paired coffee and cocktails,” says Meyer. In February they’ll debut pub pop-ups at the Contemporary Art Museum in conjunction with the museum’s current British exhibition. Watch for even more innovation from this pair as 2013 unfolds.

Micro Grant Program

Slow Food St. Louis puts its money where its mouth is. The nonprofit’s Small Farm Biodiversity Micro Grant Program encourages farmers and producers to raise heritage-breed animals and grow heirloom-variety plants by awarding enterprising individuals grants up to $1,000. This may not seem like much, but that thousand dollars helps offset the financial risk that farmers incur when they experiment with unique products, which helps diversify what’s available locally and give farmers a niche with which they can distinguish themselves. Slow Food’s Kelly Childs reports that about $30,000 has been awarded in the past four years. Jody Vogler and Tim McHale, for example, were awarded $1,000 to lease an acre of land at EarthDance Farm; rent a booth at the Old North City Farmers’ Market; and buy seeds, irrigation, market supplies and fertilizer. Childs says: “They grew heirloom beans, squash, tomatoes, peppers, okra and corn using integrated pest management and no-till planting methods with drip irrigation. The produce was sold at Old North City Market, which is located in an urban food desert.” Yours Inc. Farm, which is connected to Yours Market, was awarded $763.50 to grow “soul food vegetables” and it is planning a series of dinners as well. “We are just about to open applications for 2013,” says Childs, “and will be considering grants up to $2,000.”

BIODEGRADABLE PACKAGING We all eat on the fly now and then, whether we’re grabbing a coffee and pastry for the commute to work, having lunch delivered to the office, or picking up a family-sized feast from our favorite restaurant on a busy weeknight. It’s quick, it’s convenient and it’s hassle-free. And it often, unfortunately, ends with a lot of packaging in the garbage bin. But local restaurants are helping us enjoy our grub on the go without a side of guilt by sending us on our way with biodegradable packaging. Get your morning joe from Foundation Grounds or Pi in the Central West End’s morning coffee bar, and it comes in cute compostable cups with lids to match. All the packaging used at Lulu’s Local Eatery, a food truck serving up dishes made with local and sustainable foods, is 100 percent biodegradable and compostable. And Frida’s Deli serves its delicious smoothies (and other to-go drinks) in biodegradable cups with compostable paper straws.

The roots of the product- and service-based collaborations we see today build upon a rich foundation of partnership that developed when a handful of restaurants and chefs looked to small, local farmers for ingredients that would differentiate their menus, mixing skill and techniques with an ever more diverse collection of heirloom produce and breeds of livestock. The end result was not “products” per se − these would appear later in the partnership evolution; call it “Collaboration 2.0” − but an elevation in the quality of dishes and, ultimately, a proliferation of dining destinations that focused on local ingredients and the growing footprint of small farmers. When it comes to products, St. Louis consumers may be most familiar with the result of the longtime collaboration between The Saint Louis Brewery − brewer of Schlafly beer − and Kaldi’s Coffee: a coffee stout that has become one of the brewery’s most beloved seasonal releases. The partnership was largely unplanned, resulting from extracurricular visits to the Schlafly Tap Room by Kaldi’s employees for pints of stout served with shots of their own coffee on the side, casually combined at the drinker’s own pace to make a single, unified beverage. From the convivial act of sharing a beer after work, a coffee stout was born. “Kaldi’s started collaborating with Schlafly,” recalls Frank McGinty, director of marketing at Kaldi’s. “Being young, local companies at the time, it seemed to make sense.” “Since then, both Kaldi’s and Schlafly have ventured out into new collaboration projects,” says McGinty, referring to the coffee company’s growing portfolio of co-branded products produced with Patric Chocolate, Fitz’s Root Beer and Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. “We find ourselves partnering with other locally owned, small businesses with a similar focus on quality and community. Honestly, most collaborations

RECYCLING The restaurant biz produces a lot of waste. But luckily, St. Louis restaurants are keyed in to the importance of recycling. Plenty of fastcasual eateries and coffee shops have marked separate receptacles in their dining areas for recyclables and are using recyclable paper and plastic wares for to-go orders, giving customers greater control over the fate of their trash. Behind the scenes, many restaurants use recycling and composting services such as Blue Skies Recycling. This eco-conscious company assesses a restaurant’s waste output and installs the proper types and number of bins behind the restaurant. When they fill up, Blue Skies empties and sanitizes the bins and makes sure the waste stays out of landfills.

have started over casual conversation and tasting, then through research and development to find recipes and flavor profiles that seem to work.” The Kaldi’s approach to partnership − rooted as much in mutual appreciation as pure product development − continues to pay off for the stillgrowing coffee roasting company, most recently with Midtown brewery Urban Chestnut. The first in a series of planned releases between the two − a beer named Sertãozinho Weiss − was developed to challenge how craft beer drinkers view the relationship between coffee and beer. According to Urban Chestnut co-founder David Wolfe, the fit was natural. “Looking back on that first attempt, we realized that Kaldi’s is passionate about coffee in almost the same manner as we at Urban Chestnut are about beer. We both want to educate and demonstrate the complexities and nuances of our craft. The result is the Enlightenment Series of coffee and beer, a collaboration intended to inform and enlighten the collective of passionate coffee and beer drinkers to the possibilities of bean-meets-barley.”

COMPOSTING Strolling down Washington Avenue, you may have noticed a sign in the windows of eateries. It reads, “We are a green restaurant.” It’s a symbol that the restaurant is participating in Project Compost, a collaboration between the Partnership for Downtown St. Louis and Blue Skies Recycling that provides bins for those restaurants to deposit pre- and postcompostable waste. The two-year pilot project, launched in 2012, aims to divert more than 3,000 tons of organic food waste from landfills over the life of the project. Currently only restaurants between 9th and 14th streets are included in the program, but the Partnership hopes to expand to include all Downtown establishments.


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Reflecting upon the experience of working with Kaldi’s, Wolfe crystallized a theme that arose time and again when businesses described their work partnering with the St. Louis craft beer community. “I think much of the collaboration we are witnessing and are a part of in St. Louis is a direct result of the other passionate artisans − chefs, chocolatiers, baristas − who realize the diversity and range of beer and enjoy working with like-minded brewers to explore it,” he says.


For some, collaboration can quickly transcend the development of a single product. In St. Louis, there may be no better example than that of the rapidly expanding Pi Pizzeria. Well-known for its cornmeal-crust pizzas, the company has continuously sought out partners to develop products that reinforce the Pi brand without distracting it from its core competency: making great pies. Over time, this has led to the creation of Pi-branded beers from The Saint Louis Brewery and 4 Hands Brewing Co., a Pi-inspired roast from Goshen Coffee, and proprietary flavors of Serendipity Ice Cream for Pi’s signature milkshakes. “Collaboration is a celebration not only of the great ideas on both sides of the table but, more importantly, the ability to execute and deliver a product that profoundly impacts the guest experience,” says Pi co-founder Frank Uible, adding: “We have found strength in numbers through collaboration. These seem to make most sense when both sides have an alignment in quality and the desire to create something unique that people will enjoy.”


While Pi is one of the more savvy practitioners of partnering on products that become synonymous with its restaurants, it is far from the only player to experiment successfully in the space. O’Connell’s Pub in South City has poured mugs of house amber ale brewed by The Saint Louis Brewery and served it up alongside its beloved hamburgers for years. More recently, Perennial Artisan Ales brewed and bottled a Munich-style lager for sale exclusively at Farmhaus restaurant. Llywelyn’s Pub is currently pouring an exclusive Russian imperial stout called Prince in Exile, a collaboration struck with Six Row Brewing Co. According to Six Row brewmaster and partner Evan Hiatt, this is the first in a series of specialty beers for the local pub called Prince Llywelyn’s Private Stock. For Six Row and Llywelyn’s the collaboration may have been unplanned, but the results are real, says Hiatt. “It’s reassuring to create a relationship with another business and have a built-in fan base that is going to enjoy the product. Ultimately collaboration allowed us to add value to two products that already exist.”

For South City’s The Civil Life Brewing Co., collaboration presents an opportunity to advertise its business and support the community that it calls home by linking up with like-minded businesses within its neighborhood. “As a business, we use collaboration as a way to create awareness. We don’t use many, if any, ‘traditional’ forms of marketing,” says owner Jake Hafner. “The beers we brewed for our neighbors at The Royale and The Amsterdam Tavern were tied to unique events where we knew that our creations would be poured and that it would happen right in Tower Grove. Working together lets us celebrate our beer while celebrating our neighborhood. We already support each other’s businesses in our personal lives, so it’s natural to work together.”

All-Access The kitchen used to be a mysterious realm to which only a lucky few were granted access. Today, the rise of “individual media” has removed the barriers that used to exist between customer and chef. Yes, the decade-old explosion of food-focused professional media − TV shows, magazines, etc. − has fueled the public’s appetite for an all-access pass to the back of the house. But it’s social media that has thrown the doors wide open. Twitter, Facebook and other communication tools allow culinarians to interact directly with their customers and peers. Ideas are broadcast. Inspiration is shared. And the people who used to do their work behind closed doors are now in direct contact with whomever wishes to engage in the culinary conversation.


J a n ua ry 2 0 1 3

QUICK AND EASY VEG Grabbing a quick bite no longer means greasy grub passed through a drive-thru window thanks to a number of establishments serving fresh, healthy menu options with minimal wait. The best part? These places are also focusing on vegetarian and vegan options. The folks behind PuraVegan and SweetArt have been catering to the meatless crowd for some time now with tasty veggie burgers and sandwiches, hearty soups, raw salads, and dairy-free baked goods. The movement has caught on, and last year saw the addition of Green Bean’s inventive salads and wraps in the Central West End as well as Frida’s Deli’s creative menu of faux crab cake sandwiches, delicious daily soups, crunchy kale chips (which seem to have a cult following) and slurpable (mostly) dairy-free smoothies in University City. And the food truck followers can choose from the vegan and vegetarian wraps and bowls served up by Lulu’s Local Eatery. These purveyors of piquant produce are making it easy to get your veg on the go!



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When 4 Hands decided to offer food inside its Downtown tasting room, owner Kevin Lemp enlisted David Bailey to leverage his restaurant experience and introduce what would become The Fifth Wheel. “We wanted to offer our customers a wellrounded experience that included food,” says Lemp. “Dave Bailey and I sat down and talked about the opportunity to work together. By teaming up we could both take ownership of what we are good at. Dave is great at food, and we could concentrate on brewing great beer. Dave is a huge craft beer supporter, and we love pairing our ales with his creations.” Spend time talking with Lemp, and it quickly becomes apparent that collaboration and

community are built into the DNA of 4 Hands – its collaboration with the Central West End restaurant Salt and local chefs Josh Galliano, Kevin Willmann, Kevin Nashan and Gerard Craft on a beer to celebrate their 2012 James Beard Foundation nominations being one example. Another creative collaboration developed out of a porter planned with Pappy’s Smokehouse, when the beer’s brew day serendipitously sparked the idea of including confection company Kakao in the project. “For Smoked Pigasus, our smoked rye-maple porter, we could have purchased smoked malt to save time and trouble, but we wouldn’t have beeen able to work with Mike Emerson if we did that,” says Lemp. “We spent a morning at Pappy’s smoking two-row malt in their rotary smoker.

Once the malt achieved the level of smoke we were all happy with, we went straight to the brewery and mashed it. We then called [Brian Pelletier at] Kakao and had him make us a bacon brittle to pair with the beer in our tasting room. Collaborations are fun for the parties involved. However, creating a well-rounded experience for the customer is really what it’s all about.” The collaboration is one that Pappy’s Smokehouse owner Mike Emerson recalls fondly. “Working with the 4 Hands guys was a blast,” says Emerson. “They are so passionate yet open to any ideas. It restores my faith in our future when I see young people with their knowledge and will to try, stumble, get up, try again. The opportunity to collaborate with local folks, it’s humbling. I consider it an honor.”

Both Emerson and Lemp echo the sentiment of all who partner up in St. Louis. The work of collaborating and building something is enjoyable, but it eventually comes down to delivering an experience that − for the business as well as the consumer − fundamentally changes and challenges, entertains and educates, celebrates and strengthens St. Louis. For the entire community, from chefs and farmers to brewers of beer, roasters of coffee and restaurateurs placing their brands on the map, the spirit of collaboration in all of its forms is doing more than building a product or offering for today; it’s also an incubator for reinvention and building the partnerships and products of tomorrow, an endeavor we can all toast to with each plate and pint we order.

BRINGING BACK THE BEES Since reports of colony collapse disorder hit the news in 2006, people around the world have taken to their backyards to increase the number of healthy bee colonies in our environment. Beekeeping resources abound in our area. The Eastern Missouri Beekeepers Association is a wealth of knowledge for ‘keepers of all experience levels, and it holds regular workshops to help get you started. For those in need of a little more hand-holding to get into the practice of keeping bees, Backdoor Harvest will gladly help out. This company plans, builds and maintains backyard gardens for St. Louis residents and will also help them install their own apiaries. Culinary professionals are enjoying the benefits of beekeeping too. RJ Chocolatier in Chesterfield cares for its own collection of hives at the corner of Mason and Ladue roads. The honey harvested from those hives is used in RJ’s delicious chocolates. That certain something you can’t place when you bite into one of its truffles? That’s the sweet taste of environmental responsibility.

No Fuss For about a decade, food folks have been bemoaning the death of “fine dining” as more casual, less expensive restaurants gained in popularity. True, there are fewer traditionally formal restaurants on the scene, but what’s really happened is this: People’s tastes and expectations have evolved. The food in our most notable eateries is no less fine than that turned out by temples of haute cuisine in years past. What’s changed is the way in which it’s presented. Fussiness has given way to creativity. Formality has fallen to casual elegance. One could argue that what’s classified as fine dining has actually seen a resurgence as the quality of ingredients has risen, the level of culinary innovation has gone up and local artisan products are more widely available. Fine no longer has to be fancy. What it has to be is good.

Dual-Use Spaces The best entrepreneurs are driven by an unquenchable urge to create, and in the food industry, that desire to launch new and unique concepts can manifest itself in the traditional way: opening a sibling restaurant. But some concepts are born as conjoined twins. Mike Randolph’s coffee-breakfast-lunch spot, Half & Half, was merrily buzzing along, caffeinating all of Clayton, when he decided to launch a night-only concept in Half & Half’s space. Meaning, once lunch service is finished, he and his crew flip the switch and Half & Half becomes another restaurant, previously Medianoche, serving highend Mexican food, and now Little Country Gentleman, which offers a sophisticated, modern take on Midwestern cuisine. And deep in Soulard, Ron Buechele has opened a barbecue joint inside Mad Art, his art gallery/event space. Capitalist Pig serves only lunch and gives the gallery another source of revenue as well as increased exposure. By creating a business within a business, entrepreneurs can maximize their space and attract an entirely new audience.

STEWEDSTL.COM It’s pretty awesome when one of your favorite chefs comes out of the kitchen and stops by the table to chat about your meal. A few minutes with such a busy person is a gift. But do you ever wish you could pull up a chair with that chef, pour a few drinks and have a nice, long chat? Really hear what he or she thinks about food and dining and cooking for a living. You totally can. Just turn the dial on your web browser to to hear podcasts of in-depth conversations with local food personalities hosted by a ragtag group of more local food personalities – Kelli Best-Oliver, Bill Burge, Michael Sweeney and Andrew Mark Veety. These hosts, who all do some form of food writing at the very least, provide colorful commentary and insightful interviews with a variety of guests who are the creative forces behind some of your favorite kitchens, bars, shops, and food and drink products in St. Louis. If you can’t get a seat at the table yourself, at least you can listen in on the fun.

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Inspired Food Culture

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Written by Jeremy Nulik

It’s Oct. 1, 2006, and Rick Schaper is in his Dogtown bungalow putting the last pieces of plastic wrap on one of the 100 pizzas he has spent the last 24 hours assembling. With the Cardinals’ playoff game on in the background, he begins to greet his houseguests – family, neighborhood friends and people he has known his whole life since growing up in the nearby St. James the Greater parish.

housing market collapsed, however, he decided it was time to return to his first love. “Then I paid for the ingredients and labels to fill those orders by maxing out some credit cards and made 300 pizzas. To this day, we have never borrowed money and have built the business off cash flow and sales.”

“I sold all 100 pizzas that day and got 40 more orders,” says Schaper, who had taken a break from the restaurant biz to work as a car salesman and home remodeler. After the

This was how he and his wife, Meredith, started Dogtown Pizza, a frozen-pizza company that now supplies area Schnucks, Dierbergs and Straub’s grocery stores. Sure, it may sound like

an unlikely beginning, but South Side grit and lofty entrepreneurial vision have proved to be successful antidotes to failure. However, if you ask Schaper what has led to his success, he would add one more crucial element: incubation. It’s an element he shares with a growing number of innovative food businesses. Through incubation, entreprenuers keep costs low and open themselves to mentorship opportunities, which helps businesses develop strong roots and grow organically.

Andy Ayers

LOCAL SNACKING As if St. Louis didn’t already have an abundance of great eateries, food trucks, watering holes, bakeries and confectionaries to choose from, our scene is also endowed with a great number of talented food producers who ensure you don’t have to leave your couch to devour local foods. You can find bags of Billy Goat Chips and Whataya Nuts nut clusters in a number of grocery stores and delis throughout the area, as well as chocolate-covered pretzels and snack mixes from Mom’s Originals at specialty shops. Dips range from the creamy Ah!Zeefa black lentil dips to savory cheese spreads such as Charlie’s Beer Cheese or the goods from River City Savories, sold at neighborhood markets. Whether you want an interesting item to feature on your next party tray or simply need to satisfy a craving for something crunchy, look no further than local.

The name of his business says it all: Eat Here, St. Louis! Andy Ayers has been deep in the local restaurant scene for decades, and the now-shuttered Riddle’s Penultimate was one of the first restaurants to spotlight locally grown products. After a 28-year run in a restaurant kitchen, Ayers got out from behind the stove and launched Eat Here, a wholesale company that sources local foods for local chefs. Ayers is not only making it easier for chefs to cook with and serve local food but he’s also giving our region’s farmers a much-needed source of steady sales. Because of Eat Here, chefs don’t have to hunt around farmer by farmer for products and farmers don’t have to go door to door selling what they’ve produced. At his St. Louis warehouse, Ayers accepts deliveries and then sends his delivery guys out to drop off boxes of just-picked produce. He also sources local dairy products, rice, maple syrup and more. Sometimes Ayers isn’t able to give a chef exactly what he wants − if the Brussels sprouts aren’t ready for harvest, they’re not available. Chefs are flexible when they’re dedicated to sourcing their ingredients locally and ensuring that their customers “eat here.”

Third Wave Coffee Coffee should be sourced, roasted, brewed and savored as an artisanal product and understood for its nuance, like wine. So says Third Wave Coffee, a movement focused on crafting your cup to best express the body, flavor and style each bean produces. America’s First Wave brought coffee brands like Folgers to supermarket shelves. The Second Wave saw companies like Starbucks democratize and popularize espresso-based drinks, like the latte. Now the Third Wave is zeroing in on brewing methods − pour-over, French press, cold-brewed, Beehouse − and single-origin beans with the aim of treating coffee with culinary-level respect. Locally, Kaldi’s leads the educational pack, offering free weekly cuppings at its South City roasting facility. Coffee lovers should also seek out newcomers Sump, Comet Coffee and VanBuskirk Artisanal Chocolate Bar for a brewed-to-order, technique-driven cup o’ joe.

From Dogtown to Midtown to the North Riverfront Shortly after that house party in 2006, Schaper’s pizzas became popular among smaller grocery stores on The Hill. That was when Schaper heard about the St. Louis County Economic Council’s Midtown Enterprise Center. One of five business incubators operated by the Economic Council, the Midtown location is the only facility with a kitchen and foodassembly area. Since its mission is to stimulate growth and boost employment, it has low monthly rent and offers mentoring and educational programming. Schaper went to work drafting a business plan and applying for space at the incubator. “Most of the other food businesses had cooking needs, so they would have to schedule time in the main kitchen,” says Schaper, who moved into the Midtown Enterprise Center in 2007. “All we

needed was the assembly space. Within weeks I was in there filling orders.” If he hadn’t had the aid of the incubator space at that critical time, Schaper is doubtful he would have the kind of business he has today. He had notions of needing a retail space or establishing a take-and-bake business model – the costs of which would have eaten up his revenue quickly. But the incubator helped temper his entrepreneurial vision and pace his development. “The incubator helped me to start out small,” says Schaper. “I didn’t have any overhead cost, so I could buy another freezer and get new labels made. I also had the chance to throw some new ideas around for our pizza recipes and try some things out.” He has since graduated from the incubator after five years of residence and moved into new,

larger digs on North Broadway, and his business continues to mushroom. Year over year, the company’s profits have at least doubled. In November 2011 (his last month in the incubator), Schaper sold 9,000 pizzas using 1,000 square feet of space. In November 2012, Schaper filled orders for 41,000 pizzas with 25,000 square feet of space. He now employs 25 people. And while you can take the couple out of Dogtown, you can’t take the Dogtown out of the pizza. With unique varieties like Bacon Bacon and Hot Wing, the company’s product remains loyal to the flavors of its neighborhood heritage. To this day, Schaper can’t believe his good fortune. “We are normal Dogtown people,” he says. “We’re the kind of people you would drive by and see drinking beer on the porch. If the incubator was not there to help me get started, I don’t think I could have done it on my own.”

NEVILLE MCNAUGHTON The world of cheese is complex, vast, highly technical and, well, incredibly delicious. A really good cheese is a thing of beauty. But how does one learn to make a really good cheese? For some, it’s as simple as making a call to Neville McNaughton. Known as Dr. Cheez, McNaughton runs a cheese-making consultancy called CheezSorce that educates aspiring cheesemakers on the volumes of knowledge needed to run a successful business. From business plans and plant design to manufacturing, milking and sanitation, he helps some of the best in the business become operational. And of course he also assists with cultivating the finest flavors, proper packaging and staff training. He has worked with cheesemakers from Willamette Valley to the farmsteads of Vermont, and here at home his clients include Baetje Farms and Marcoot Jersey Creamery, both of whom have won numerous medals at the World Cheese Awards for their products. And both are thankful for the knowledge of this man who is passionately dedicated to good cheese. As lovers of local cheese, we are too.


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ATOMIC DUST Food should have character. And in 2012, marketing agency Atomic Dust added some noteworthy personality to the local scene. It gave Goshen Coffee a packaging makeover that has the brand standing out on shelves. According to Atomic Dust’s blog: “Smaller coffee brands can seem elitist and exclusive. Coffee often is perceived as sophisticated, but we wanted to shake that up and make Goshen’s distinguished coffee appear bolder and more creative.” Goshen’s new bags of beans have made “Modern Rosie” by Canadian photographer Michaël Fournier the new face of this local brand. And when Gerard Craft needed a signature look for his newest venture, Pastaria, he called on Atomic Dust to do the job. The agency created a complete branding scheme with catchy phrases, midcentury family imagery and a logo using “hand-drawn, pasta-like” script that you’ll find on the restaurant’s menus, T-shirts, to-go boxes, website and more. Atomic Dust has given great companies with great products a strong voice through great design.

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Inspired Food Culture

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The low-cost, creative way to organic growth Schaper is not the only food entrepreneur in town taking advantage of what incubation time can do. Dan Brewer, founder of MOFU Soy, a small-batch artisan-tofu company, has been perfecting his craft since March 2011 at a kitchen on Saint Louis University’s campus. His target customers include local farmers’ markets; restaurants; and small, locally owned grocery stores. Brewer, a full-time SLU faculty member, is doubtful he could have had the creative freedom to explore and perfect his craft without this incubation period. “I suppose that another option would have been to delay starting up until I had the capital and money that I needed,” says Brewer, “but I don’t think I would have had the balls to keep dropping more money on my new ideas. I would be more concerned with overhead and liabilities than with making really awesome tofu.” This incubation period also gave Brewer the freedom to explore what kind of business model he wants the matured version of his company to have. He has spent time getting to know the local sources for the soybeans (the name of the company is a fusion of Missouri and tofu since Brewer uses locally grown, organic crops), and he’s also listening carefully to customer demands. “I really don’t have any particular plans for the business,” he says. “I am just letting it grow organically and seeing where it goes.”

Being patient with the vision Letting things develop organically on their own does not come naturally to Jenna Siebert, co-owner of The Sweet Divine, a St. Louis– based pastry company. The self-described entrepreneurial “jumper” is of the ready, fire, aim variety. Thanks in part to her more methodical business partner and husband, Jason, and in part to some financial restrictions, however, business and idea incubation has yielded better results than even she had envisioned. For the Sieberts, it started three years ago when they were making cakes for friends out of their home kitchen. At night, Jenna was haunted by visions of a corner storefront pastry boutique – just the right blend of hip with a small-town feel that would make for a welcoming and warm experience. But after several months of impatiently looking for the perfect location, the Sieberts realized they would have to do something else if they wanted to launch a business. That’s when they got the idea to start a cupcake food truck. “It made sense to establish a clientele first before purchasing a location,” says Jenna, who admits that the food truck was mostly Jason’s idea. “With a storefront, it is all about your location and how well you can market. With the food truck, we could go anywhere, and we did not compete with most of the savory food trucks. We were actually a nice complement.”

Unusual Wines As diners deepen their desire to explore the new and unfamiliar, that sense of adventure is (thankfully) extending to the wine list. Too often, restaurants play it safe with wine, offering well-known varietals they know will sell: Cabernet, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir ... This is a missed opportunity for restaurateurs to further differentiate the experience at their place from others in this packed culinary scene. It’s also, frankly, boring. Things are beginning to change, however. A new energy in the wine scene is emerging, more sommeliers are on the floor and customers are asking to sip something new. Glenn Bardgett’s notebook-sized list at Annie Gunn’s is legendary for its breadth. At the newly opened Elaia & Olio, sommelier Andrey Ivanov is featuring wines from Israel, Romania and other Mediterranean regions rarely -- if ever -- seen on local lists. At Remy’s, the Tuesday Tastings offer approachable wine-and-food pairings with the specific intent of introducing people to new bottles. Robust makes wine understandable and broadens customers’ palates by offering flights that are anchored by well-known vintages but include a delicious surprise or two. 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar is an oenophile destination, a place where exploration is encouraged and wines made with grapes like Bonarda and Tokay vastly, and refreshingly, outnumber Merlot.

Great Glasses Thick, heavy, cheap glassware is becoming a thing of the past as greater focus is being put on beverage service in restaurants and bars. Bartenders are mixing and serving their concoctions in antique punch bowls and vintage glasses. Sommeliers are breaking out the (breakable) stemware to ensure customers fully experience each wine’s aroma and mouth feel. Craft breweries are pouring their beers into snifters, Weizen glasses, pilsner glasses and goblets, the glasses paired to − like wine glasses − best express each beer’s particular characteristics. With such an emphasis on excellent beverages, it makes sense that the glasses themselves should reflect the quality of their contents.

PATRICK HORINE There are many champions of local farmers in the St. Louis area, but one who stands out among the crowd is Patrick Horine. When he and his wife moved to the Tower Grove neighborhood from San Francisco, they wished there was a nearby farmers’ market, so in 2005 they launched the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, which operates Saturdays from April through October in Tower Grove Park. Horine says in the first season he estimates the market had 13 vendors and about 500 weekly visitors. When it wrapped up its seventh season in 2012, the market drew a weekly average of 50 vendors and 4,000 visitors. The same motivation and ingenuity that helped Horine grow the market has been applied to his efforts with Local Harvest Grocery and Local Harvest Cafe and Catering, both of which feature products sourced within 150 miles of St. Louis. They were established in the Tower Grove South neighborhood, but this summer Horine and his partner Maddie Earnest opened a new cafe location Downtown and a new grocery store in Kirkwood. Horine is proud of the fact that 85 cents of every dollar spent at these establishments stays in the St. Louis region, supporting farmers, ranchers, food producers and the company’s employees. As a patron of their stores and cafes, you should be too.

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And even though it was not the route that Jenna had in mind, this “business within the business” has done much more than just create a local following. In the summer of 2012, The Sweet Divine was featured on an episode of the Food Network’s Cupcake Wars. Jenna’s Banana Moon Pie stole away a victory on the Angry Birdsthemed show. “The producers at the show said to be ready for business to double when the episode airs,” says Jenna. “We knew at that point that we needed to find a storefront to support the influx of customers.” The Sweet Divine opened a location in June 2012 on South Kingshighway. Once again, it is not the ideal location that Jenna dreamed of, but it is one step closer. Even before the business opened, people from the neighborhood were lined up, asking to try something new.

“By having the truck and being known for cupcakes, we were able to create a unique business that is better than an ordinary pastry shop,” says Jenna, whose menu includes innovative items such as the Drunken Pig cupcake, made with Newcastle beer, sharp Cheddar cheese and bacon. “We started with just wedding cakes, and, looking back, that is kind of boring. I wouldn’t have done this business any differently. I still have my creative vision. I just keep focused on it, and I am enjoying the way it is going.” The Sieberts’ experience proves that the concept of incubation is not something that is restricted to designated incubation centers but rather a movement that is at the heart of business and food innovation. Releasing what some business experts call iterations or minimum viable products is a way that a company can naturally innovate new concepts.

A culture of innovation Travis Sheridan, program administrator for the Helix Center Biotech Incubator, is a big fan of the kind of growth he sees in St. Louis. He relocated here from Fresno, Calif., several months ago because “the ecosystem for entrepreneurs is so strong. “An incubator gives a new food business the chance to be a mad scientist in the kitchen,” says

Sheridan. “They can afford to have a lot of trial and error with their product in a commercial space.” Along with the development of new ideas, Sheridan sees a much bigger community impact when it comes to business incubation. Joining in with the startup community has the power to revitalize established brands and seasoned restaurateurs. “One of the things that happens with pure incubation is a culture of innovation,” says Sheridan. “That is a benefit to established restaurants or businesses in the area if they choose to get involved with startups in a mentoring sort of way. If every day you are going into the same place and looking at the same menu, you can’t see anything new. When you start sharing your experiences with a company that is in incubation, it gets you thinking like a startup again. That is an innovation shot in the arm for any business.”

SUSTAINABLE RESTAURANT DESIGN More and more restaurants are building out their spaces with materials that extend the commitment to sustainability beyond the kitchen. Pi Pizzeria is known for its environmental focus, and when it built its Downtown location last year, it commissioned Mwanzi to make custom furniture from foraged shipping pallet wood and utilized the cladding of a razed barn from New Haven, Mo., in the interior design. And when Kaylen Wissinger prepared to open her bakery, Whisk, on Cherokee Street, her design plans included salvaged building materials; low-VOC paints; EnergyStar-qualified windows, doors and appliances; and occupancy sensors in the bathrooms and storage areas. The ingredients that make up the bake shop’s design are as sustainable and thoughtful as the goods in Wissinger’s cases.

EMPLOYEE BENEFITS File this under something we want to see more of. A handful of area restaurants are offering their servers, cooks, bartenders and other employees the rewards of employment known as “benefits” − health insurance, paid time off, a 401(k), maybe even profit sharing − and we think that needs to catch on. Although it’s very expensive to provide benefits to workers, businesses see returns on their investments in the form of increased loyalty and a more stable and mature work force. Lots of folks dedicated to the restaurant business leave to find jobs that offer more than just a paycheck, especially as they start families. Giving employees benefits benefits us all.

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KERRY SORACI We all know that food can be an art form. But few foodstuffs are as artful as Kerry Soraci’s outrageously creative ice cream cakes. At I Scream Cakes, her colorful and energetic shop on Cherokee Street, Soraci starts with innovative flavors of ice cream – such as Brown-Buttered Pear, Black and Tan (chocolate-Guinness ice cream marbled with malted brown butter-Bass pale ale ice cream) and ChocolateOrange-Habanero – a number of which are vegan. You can grab a few scoops and stop there if you please, but you’d be remiss to overlook the cakes made with those tasty flavors. Soraci fashions her ice creams and gluten-free cakes into showstopping designs that include monsters, zombies, exotic plants and flowers, hot dogs and sushi platters as well as likenesses of your favorite celebrity, your family pet or your uncle Steve if you wish. These avant-garde cakes might be too fascinating to eat, if they weren’t equally as delicious.

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Crowdfunding giant Kickstarter has found a market in the St. Louis culinary scene. Local food enthusiasts have turned out in droves to support the expansion of their favorite businesses and the start-up of new ones. When entre needed a new hood in its kitchen, it raised the funds online and in no time was back in business. recently upgraded their podcasting equipment and YellowTree Farm launched a heritage-breed poultry project using crowdsourced funds. Now we’re seeing a number of local businesses turning to IndieGoGo for crowdfunding which, unlike Kickstarter, doesn’t require you to meet your campaign goal in order to receive funds. Black Bear Bakery is using this format to keep doors open, while Tikka Tikka Taco raised funds on IndieGoGo to get its Indian street food truck rolling.

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Truc k Culinary School Explosion As the food industry has grown, the number of schools dedicated to training tomorrow’s chefs has grown along with it. St. Louis Community College-Forest Park has long been regarded as a leader in culinary education, locally and nationally. L’Ecole Culinaire debuted its Ladue location a number of years ago, and now the St. Louis area is home to Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts, the Culinary Institute of St. Louis at Hickey College, The Art Institute of St. Louis and Southwestern Illinois College’s accredited culinary arts program. If an aspiring chef is looking for professional training, St. Louis is now something of a hub of academic opportunity. It will be interesting to see how, and whether, the food scene changes as more students graduate and get chopping.

When developers rehabilitate a neighborhood, restaurants are one of the critical pieces of a successful revitalization puzzle. Downtown’s lofts feature restaurants and retail on their ground floors as amenities for the buildings’ residents but also to attract foot traffic to the streetscape. In the Old North neighborhood, Crown Candy Kitchen serves as an anchor to this historic section of the city. As the Old North Restoration Group revitalized what is now known as Crown Square, other small, locally owned businesses were integrated into the commercial plan, including Old North Grocery Co-op and the La Mancha Coffeehouse. In Botanical Heights, developers reached out to Ben Poremba, who turned a run-down gas station and abandoned two-family flat into Elaia & Olio, a restaurant and wine bar. And La Patisserie Chouquette is set to open this month, giving the neighborhood a European-style bakery as well. Restaurants and other food businesses act as gathering places, enhancing a neighborhood’s sense of community and bringing energy to onceempty storefronts.


“The truck has been a great billboard for the restaurant location, and it has given the Zia’s brand more versatility,” says Edwards. “We can try some different menu items out on the truck before they offer them at the brick-and-mortar location.” Zia’s business approach is a shining example of a growing trend in the St. Louis food scene. Instead of hanging a shingle and asking customers to visit one location, it leverages new technologies to take products directly to the customer. Zia’s is mobile. Herein lies the irony: Mobile food businesses, which were once regarded as lowbrow (food trucks used to be called “roach coaches”), are now being credited by many industry veterans with leading menu innovation and offering a more sophisticated business approach for local restaurants.

A fast track to entrepreneurship and innovation One such industry veteran, Colin Shive is an instructor in L’Ecole Culinaire’s Food Truck Entrepreneurship program. Shive, one of the founders of the Falafelwich Sandwich Wagon, is himself a mobile food entrepreneur. For the past couple of years, the L’Ecole Academy has been using a food truck as a tool for giving students real-world experience. But in light of the growing trend of startup food truck businesses, the academy has now created programs to usher in the next generation of restaurant mavericks. “With the low overhead and flexibility, the food truck allows for unique concepts,” says Shive. “You

can take a risk and offer some things, like Korean tacos. You’re not serving a five-course meal, so you can test things out and see how people react. Also, you can always pack up and move if you want to. You are not tied down to just one location.” The entrepreneurship program focuses more attention on the blocking and tackling of what it means to be a scrappy startup than on foodpreparation technique. According to Shive, the tough economy has played a role in the growing interest in food trucks and mobile food businesses. “The poor economy means that more crazy ideas are now encouraged,” says Shive. “Right now is a great time for people who are tired of the runof-the-mill ways to do things. With a food truck, if you have a good idea, you can get it started almost right away.”

Leveraging the latest technology Two St. Louis entrepreneurs are largely responsible for the tech infrastructure behind mobility. Jack Dorsey is the creator and founder of Twitter, and in 2009, he and Jim McKelvey founded Square Inc., a company that provides credit-card reader solutions for Android, iPhone or iPad devices. McKelvey came up with the idea for Square out of his own bitter experience as a small merchant. He lost a sale when he couldn’t run a customer’s credit card, and he realized there must be many others with the same problem. “Square has enabled mobile food vendors to concentrate on what they do best – make great food,” says McKelvey. “They can accept payments just like any other business and do so without worrying about hidden fees, expensive equipment or tricky contracts. It’s magical.” The ability to quickly share a location using social-media applications like Twitter coupled with the ability to quickly take all forms of payment has been key to the success of many St. Louis mobile businesses.

Sous Chef Battle

Pop-ups Some pop-ups and temporary restaurants exist for no reason other than to give chefs another creative outlet and allow them to play with ideas, but others have a purpose beyond experimentation. Before taking the financial plunge of opening a restaurant, culinary entrepreneurs can use a pop-up restaurant to introduce ideas, play with dishes, tweak presentations and test the waters before diving in. These temporary laboratories allow concepts to be vetted and dishes developed. This month, two new pop-up concepts temporarily bring you creative and notable cuisine. Le Coq is a monthlong chicken-flavored pop-up restaurant that will operate at entre’s event space in the Central West End. And if you pop in at Sump on Sun., Jan. 27, you’ll be able to brunch on Kitchen Kulture’s menu of dishes designed to be paired with the coffeehouse’s precisely roasted and brewed java.

Back in October, sous chefs from some of St. Louis’ most respected kitchens battled each other in a head-to-head cooking competition. The prize? Bragging rights and, oh, $5,000. The chefs − Chris Bolyard of Sidney Street Cafe, Adam Gnau of Acero, Nate Hereford of Niche, Andrew Jennrich of Farmhaus and Jesse Mendica of Annie Gunn’s − were given one main ingredient for two courses, to be completed within an hour and a half for five judges. Anne Cori, owner of Kitchen Conservatory, was the only person who knew the ingredients the chefs would be working with. The event instantly sold out, but at five bucks a ticket, the event’s purpose clearly wasn’t to earn revenue. The purpose was to support and foster St. Louis’ next generation of great chefs. By pitting these up-and-comers against each other, the event’s organizers − Sidney Street Cafe’s Kevin Nashan and Mike Emerson of Pappy’s − hoped to foster camaraderie, fuel the exchange of ideas and begin to get the chefs used to the spotlight that will inevitably shine on their work once they take the helm at their own restaurants. And if you’re wondering, Bolyard won.

JERMAIN TODD Jermain Todd, who has a degree in business marketing, started out selling bamboo flooring in 2005, and now his company, Mwanzi Co., can boast a bustling workshop filled with woodworkers and blacksmiths who craft cabinets, tables and chairs from sustainably harvested wood, much of which is local. Talk about innovative: One of Todd’s main lumber sources is tree removal companies. Trees that have been cut down and would normally end up in a chipper are given new life as eco-friendly cabinetry and furniture. Walnut, hickory, maple and other hardwoods that are normally reserved for the highest-end applications are used in the four lines he offers, which range in style from traditional bead board to sleek, Italian-style modern designs. In the past year or so, Todd has been doing commercial work as well. 4 Hands Brewing Co. was his second commercial client, and since then he has done custom work for culinary clients ranging from Pi Downtown to SweetArt to Elaia & Olio. You’ll find “Mwanzi” (which means bamboo in Swahili) branded on beautiful builtins and furniture in a handful of restaurants and shops around town, and we know the number will increase exponentially as word of Todd’s beautiful workmanship and commitment to sustainability spread. Watch this month for a video tour of the Mwanzi showroom and hear from some of its latest clients, including Simone Faure of the soon-to-open La Patisserie Chouquette.


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“Two years ago I was concerned with how much people were going to use Twitter to find us,” says Kandace Davis, owner and chef of Cha Cha Chow, one of St. Louis’ first food trucks, which launched in October 2010. “But within the first couple of days, we had a few hundred followers, and it just kept multiplying from there. We witnessed the awesome power of social media.” Davis goes on to say that Square and other creditcard-processing applications have been one of the best innovations for food trucks because now vendors can accept any payment quickly. “That is critical for a food truck,” says Davis, “because when you have a long line of people, your turnaround time has got to be a matter of a few seconds.”

Not just for zany, new food

innovation is as much about the medium or business model as it is about the food. “We have had customers asking for a Zia’s location out in Chesterfield and other areas, so the food truck gives us a way to get into the County and other areas without having to open a new location,” says Cory Chiodini, Zia’s general manager and the next in line to take on the family business. “It also brings some positive buzz to our business. I know I have seen some new faces in our restaurant, and sometimes we run a special on the food-truck menu – items like the penne alla vodka.”

truck as the newest piece of equipment in the arsenal of delivering the Hill experience outside the restaurant location. However, she says consistency is the most important ingredient to the mobility model. “The quality has to be as good as the restaurant, so being consistent is our main focus,” she says. “If someone says that something they had in the restaurant or from the store does not taste the same as it did in 1985, then that hurts our reputation.”

Staying in front of customers has been a family tradition for Zia’s. It launched its brandedproducts business, which includes its signature salad dressing, in the ‘90s. Chiodini sees the food

While the food-truck platform seems fitting for new concepts such as Cha Cha Chow, the idea of mobility is not restricted to startups. As is exemplified by Zia’s on The Hill, mobile-food


No Menu Monday Prix fixe is passé. Trending today? No menu at all. Food lovers are choosing to “trust the chef” when they’re dining out, preferring their meal to be a delicious surprise. At Home Wine Kitchen’s No Menu Monday, the questionnaire customers receive declares, “Your mom doesn’t give you a menu ... so neither do we.” Chef Cassy Vires asks diners a few questions to “inspire” their meal, including, “What makes you say yuck?” and “If the chef were a magic genie, what would you wish her to make?” The three-course meal that follows is unique to each customer’s answers. Return week after week and you’ll never receive the same three-course meal twice. Not that you’d want to.

The questionable quality of school lunches has been a hot topic over the past few years, leading to a call for healthier menus, ingredients and meal etiquette in school cafeterias. A number of educators throughout St. Louis schools have made great progress in this arena, and parents are getting involved too. Namely Marc Del Pietro of The Block. When he had the chance to discuss his son Nico’s school lunch programs with fellow parents, he found everyone else was as dissatisfied as he was. So he took charge, approached the school about revamping the lunch program and brought his culinary expertise to his son’s lunchroom. Now the school serves fresh meals made on the premises to limit preservatives and stabilizers. Mac and cheese is made with real cheese and milk, and it includes sweet potato purée to help the kids get their daily serving of veggies. Turkey burgers are served on housemade whole-wheat buns and come with a side of fresh fruit and veggies. This healthy, tasty cafeteria food has kids eating healthier and enjoying it.

TONY KOOYUMJIAN Every industry needs a cheerleader. Someone who not only strives to succeed individually but also offers guidance to others in his field and extolls the virtues of what he and his contemporaries have set out to accomplish. For Missouri wine, that person is Tony Kooyumjian, and his mission is to share the beauty and history of the land, the efforts of its grape growers and winemakers, and the potential of Missouri wines to compete with the rest of the world. Kooyumjian moved to Augusta, Mo., in 1988, and today he owns and operates Augusta and Montelle wineries. His wines have won numerous awards in Missouri, California and Germany, and he is the chair of the Wine and Grape Research Committee for the Missouri Wine and Grape Board. His efforts have helped grow the research objectives of the University of Missouri’s Institute for Continental Climate Viticulture & Enology (ICCVE), which in turn has made education and resources readily available to local vintners and viticulturists. The next time you pour a glass of your favorite Missouri wine, give a little cheers of thanks to the work – past, present and future – of Tony Kooyumjian.


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Inspired Food Culture

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Is it all just a fad? According to, St. Louis has more than 35 active food trucks. That is about double the amount from 2011. At the start of 2010, there were zero. So, will the food-truck fad pass, or is it here to stay? If there were a “Let’s wait and see” column, you would see a checkmark there from Chiodini. “I don’t know if I would start a new food truck today,” says Chiodini. “I think we hit at the perfect time one year ago, and we were able to get established without a lot of competition. I’m all for more food trucks and keeping the scene alive, but I don’t know exactly what will happen when the newness wears off.” Some, like Shive, see a larger mobile trend developing – one that is not necessarily about food

trucks but about making food mobile and finding new ways to meet customers where they are.

and a wooden churn, and, in the old-school spirit, he delivers his creations on a tricycle – a practice that was common in the ‘20s and ‘30s.

watch them immediately react to the ice cream. I can also change things quickly since I don’t have much overhead.”

Old-school tools inspire new food innovations

That’s where old-school ends though. Clopton’s ice cream flavors include strong porter (using St. Louis-based Six Row Brewing Co.’s porter) and candied bacon (a suggestion from a customer). Some have been admitted flops (tomato), and others have been surprising favorites (cucumber mint). Clopton credits some of his novelty to the mobile business platform.

Clopton will acquire a new tricycle within the next few months, bringing his fleet count to two. He has designs on designating a trike for every neighborhood in St. Louis and achieving a green, sustainable ice cream delivery business. Would he ever even consider a more traditional location-based business?

If you happen to be walking through Lafayette Square on a Friday afternoon, you may hear the quickly approaching wheels of the kind of evolution that Shive predicts. Those wheels belong to John Clopton’s mobile business, Frostbite Gourmet Ice Cream. Clopton creates custom small batches of ice cream using rock salt

“When I get a request for a new flavor, I can make a small batch over the next week and then place that right in a customer’s hand,” says Clopton. “Since I am mobile, I get more of a personal and intimate connection with my customers. I’m with them in their homes or standing right there to

“The scene will continue to evolve,” he says. “There are a lot of people who want to push the envelope. At L’Ecole Culinaire, we are using the food truck as a model to create a business plan, but the things we are teaching are key to helping any business to be successful – not just a food truck.”

“I don’t know that I would ever have a brickand-mortar shop,” he says. “I don’t have to worry about electricity, air conditioning, heating and other things. I can focus instead on the ice cream, and if I have a new idea, I can just do it. Being mobile is the best thing for my business right now.”

COCKTAILS ON TAP WINE ON TAP It seems as though you can get just about anything on tap these days, and wine is no exception. The introduction of wine on tap to our local market was recently made by Kyle Harsha of Harsha Wines, following its popularity in the California wine industry over the past few years. Why serve wine on tap when we’re all perfectly happy with the bottled version? The multifaceted answer to the singular question is: saving. As in savings for the business, savings for the customer, saving the wine and saving the Earth. Incorporating the system into an existing bar is easy. Swap out the brass fittings on the beer taps for stainless steel ones and you’re ready to go. The system uses inert gas instead of CO2 for pressurization, which keeps wine stored in the kegs fresh and oxygen-free for months, eliminating the need to throw out what isn’t drunk from the bottle at the end of the night. The stainless steel cylinders used to house the wine are recyclable and cost less to store and ship. And the cost savings is passed on to the customer, who pays $1 to $2 less per glass for wines from the tap. If you won’t miss admiring the label design or debating your preferred closure system, choosing wines on tap will be a win-win for everyone.

Cocktails on tap have been gaining in popularity for the past few years. There are a few ways bartenders utilize spigots when serving mixed drinks, one being small batches of cocktails aged in 2- to 5-liter tabletop oak barrels fitted with taps. Bartenders mix up a batch of Negronis or Manhattans, for example, age it for about one month and then pour straight from the cask. In this method, the cask impacts the flavor and character of the cocktail. A larger-batch method sees pre-mixed cocktails poured from taps right next to your favorite beers. Padda Restaurant Group – helmed by Dr. Gurpreet Padda and Amy Grimes – has spearheaded the trend in St. Louis. Bartenders make their libations in batches large enough to fill a 4½-gallon stainless steel cylinder. Ice is added to chill the cocktail and add the level of dilution you’d find in a by-the-glass version, and then the ice is removed. The cylinder is kept at 38ºF and connected to the taps. A carbon dioxide channel helps the drink flow to the glass but doesn’t degrade the character of the finished product. So why serve cocktails on tap if they don’t taste any different? It’s a profitable model for the business. Ingredients can be purchased in bulk at a discount to fill the kegs, portions are controlled with every pour and it reduces product loss since the pressurized kegs keep everything inside from spoiling. Innovation is flowing as freely as booze at these bars.

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TABLE TAPS Is there anything worse than waiting for a beer? OK, yes there is. But that minor inconvenience has been eradicated with the advent of table taps at Circle 7 Ranch Taphouse and Grill. Nine premium tables at this establishment feature the Personal Table Taps beer-dispensing system, which allows patrons to pour their own beer without having to get up or wait for a server. Sounds a bit dangerous, right? According to the Circle 7 website: “The Personal Table Taps use state-of-the-art flow meters to monitor beer consumption and each table has its own display featuring the quantity of ounces that have been poured from the tap, allowing both the patron and the server to monitor consumption.” Convenience with the added benefit of responsibility. Cheers to that!


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CONTACT INFORMATION 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar, 1913 Park Ave., Lafayette Square, 314.231.9463, 33wine. com Annie Gunn’s, 16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, 636.532.7684, Atomic Dust, 3012 Locust St., Midtown, 314.241.2866, Augusta Winery, 5601 High St., Augusta, 888.667.9463, Backdoor Harvest, 314.810.2684, Billy Goat Chip Co., 4993 Loughborough Ave., Holly Hills, 314.353.4628, Black Bear Bakery, 2639 Cherokee St., Cherokee Business District, 314.771.2236, blackbearbakery. org Blue Skies Recycling, 855.446.2583, Charlie’s Beer Cheese, CheezSorce, 4207 McCausland Ave., Lindenwood Park, 314.517.4397, Circle 7 Ranch Taphouse and Grill, 14412 Clayton Road, Ballwin, 636.220.9707, circle7ranch. com Comet Coffee, 5708 Oakland Ave., Dogtown, 314.932.7770, cometcoffeestl.

com Contemporary Art Museum, 3750 Washington Blvd., Grand Center, 314.535.4660, Crown Candy Kitchen, 1401 Saint Louis Ave., Old North, 314.621.9650, Eastern Missouri Beekeepers Association, Eat Here, St. Louis!, Elaia & Olio, 1634 Tower Grove Ave., Botanical Heights, 314.932.1088,, entre/Le Coq, 360 N. Boyle Ave., Central West End, 314.632.6754, Foundation Grounds Coffee House & Cafe, 7298 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.601.3588, foundationgrounds. com Frida’s Deli, 622 North and South Road, University City, 314.727.6500, Green Bean, 232 N. Euclid Ave., Central West End, 314.361.4444, Half & Half/Little Country Gentleman, 8135 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.725.0719,, littlecountrygentleman. com Harsha Wines, 1317 W. Lark Industrial Drive, Fenton, 636.600.0730, Home Wine Kitchen, 7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.802.7676, I Scream Cakes, 2641 Cherokee St., Cherokee Business District, 314.923.5758, Kaldi’s Coffee, multiple locations, kaldiscoffee. com Kitchen Kulture, La Mancha Coffeehouse, 2815 N. 14th St., Old North, 314.932.5581, lamanchacoffeehouse. com La Patisserie Chouquette, 1626 Tower Grove Ave., Botanical Heights, 314.932.7935,, Local Harvest Cafe & Catering , 3137 Morgan

Your Friends • Your Neighbors • At Your Service

Senior Living Communities

Ford Road, Tower Grove South, 314.772.8815, Local Harvest Grocery, 3108 Morgan Ford Road, Tower Grove South, 314.865.5260, Lulu’s Local Eatery, Mad Art/Capitalist Pig, 2727 S. 12th St., Soulard, 314.772.1180,, Mom’s Originals, 314.616.6667, momsoriginals. com Montelle Winery, 201 Montelle Drive, Augusta, 888.595.9463, Mwanzi Co., 2757 Wyoming St., Benton Park West, Old North Grocery Co-op, 2718 N. 13th St., Old North, 314.260.9276, Partnership for Downtown St. Louis, 720 Olive St., Suite 450, Downtown, 314.436.6500, downtownstl. org Pastaria, 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.6603, Pi Downtown, 610 Washington Ave., Downtown, 314.588.7600, Pi in the Central West End, 400 N. Euclid Ave., Central West End, 314.367.4300, PuraVegan, 307 Belt Ave., DeBaliviere Place, 314.932.5144, Remy’s Kitchen and Wine Bar, 222 S. Bemiston Ave., Clayton, 314.726.5757, River City Savories, 130 Front St., Alton, 618.917.3965 RJ Chocolatier, 14882 Clayton Road, Chesterfield, 636.230.9300, Robust, 227 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.0033, Sanctuaria, 4198 Manchester Ave., The Grove, 314.535.9700, Slow Food St. Louis, Sump, 3700 S. Jefferson Ave., Benton Park, 917.412.5670, SweetArt, 2203 S. 39th St., Shaw, 314.771.4278, Tikka Tikka Taco,

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Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, Tower Grove Park, west of the Whitaker Theater, tgmarket. org Vanbuskirk Artisanal Chocolate Bar, 5326 Highway N, Cottleville, 314.229.7445, vanbuskirkartisanal. com Whataya Nuts, YellowTree Farm, Individual cog shapes and math problems created by DrAfter123



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AUTOMOBILE & MOTORCYCLE STORAGE The Finest in Climate Controlled Storage Close to Clayton and Ladue 314-993-1330 or

J. Graves Exterior Cleaning llc Roof Cleaning, Gutter Cleaning, Pressure Washing, Window Washing Fully Insured & Free Estimates Justin (314) 962-4220

PRECISION REMODELING Since 1990 - Interior & Exterior We Are Here For All Your Home Improvement Needs & Repairs. Free Estimates! Fully Insured. Call Bob (314) 799-4633 or Jim (314) 799-4630

ST. LOUIS CAR MUSEUM & SALES Now offering Upholstery Services for Your Classic, Antique, Custom and Special Interest Autos Contact Kevin 314.993.1330 Or

KEN'S HANDYMAN SERVICE Carpentry, Electrical, Plumbing, Painting, Gutter Cleaning and Hauling. Over 25 Yrs. Exp. Ref's. Insured. Call Ken 314-567-6900

I BUY RUNNING USED CARS Buying with Integrity for Over 30 Years Cash Paid On The Spot Call Sam 314-302-2008



We Just Don't Organize We CLEAN & ORGANIZE Your Space - Non Judgemental OLIVIA'S CLEANERS Katherine 314-556-9506 Insured & Bonded NO TASK IS TOO DAUNTING!

FOR SALE POODLES, AK C Standards, Health Guaranteed By Licensed AKC Approved Breeder. Dark Brown $400, Apricots $600 & Silver $800 636-937-6171 ST. LOUIS AUSTRALIAN LABRADOODLES Curren & Becky Coulter - Breeders 314.375.9634•314.803.8691

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LAKE MICHIGAN Waterfront Homes for Sale Go To or Call 616-355-6387 Andrea Crossman


ESTATE SALES GENTLY USED APPAREL & FURNITURE Clubhouse Shop wants your gently used donations. PICKUP Call 314-880-5484 Itemized tax letters provided. Drop Offs - 4245 Forest Park M-F 10-5, Sat 10-2pm (All proceeds benefit adults with mental illnesses)


On Call 24/7 Insured/Bonded and Carefully Screened

314.961.1002 636.391.0000

PAINTING JC PAINTS Interior/Exterior Painting Reliable, Clean & Reasonable. Insured. Call John for a free estimate 314-703-2794

SERVICES $ CASH 4 OLD STUFF $ ————Light Hauling———— We Cleanup, Haul Away and/or purchase: Garage, Estate and Moving Sales! Also, Warehouse, Business & Storage Locker Leftovers! FAY FURNITURE 618-271-8200 AM

ALLEN'S HAULING SERVICE 15, 20 and 30 Yard Trash Containers. Hauling Service. No Job Too Big Or Small. Any Type of Trash Removal. 314-621-0481 or 581-7274

PET SERVICES HELP WANTED St. Joseph’s Academy Our independent all-girls Catholic college preparatory high school is now hiring a Principal for the 2013-14 school year. Interested candidates can find detailed job description and application instructions at www.stjosephacademy.or g/about/employment/.

LaBest MOBILE GROOMING, LLC Full Pet Salon from Our Door to Yours! ISCC Certified Master Stylist, Meritus & Certified Feline Master Groomer. Insured. Yard Cleanup Available at Time of Service. Massage Therapist & Sedation Free Tartar Removed. 1-800-357-CLIP (2547)

TREES Trees Trimmed & Removed

GILLS TREE SERVICE • Stone Retaining Walls • Stump Grinding • Fully Insured

(636) 274-1378

VACATION RENTALS GULF COAST CONDO Carillon Beach, FL, Destin Area 3BR, 3BA, 3 pools, tennis courts and so much more! Great Rates. Available NOW! Call Dave at 314-922-8344 For Pictures Please Visit REGENTS PARK LONDON Modern 2 Bedroom Apartment. Convenient for Museums, Shopping, Theater. Wireless Internet Access. Highly Recommended! Call 314-569-2009

WANTED WANTED CHINESE ANTIQUES: QUALITY CHINESE ANTIQUES: BUYING IVORY, JADE and BRONZE figurines, NICE PIECES 314-503-4847 WE BUY DIAMONDS! Immediate cash paid - 20 years in business - By appointment only 314-721-7210 COLLECTOR WISHES TO PURCHASE Gun Collections - Old and New Antiques of Any Type Fishing Tackle Call Steve Lapin 314-571-9427 OLD RECORDS WANTED Experienced Collector Pays Cash for Your Record Collection. 45 RPM, 78 RPM and 33.3 RPM. Rock, Soul, Jazz. House Calls Made. Call Kurt 314-324-0521

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Grandma Elsie’s Spice Cake Photography by

Contributor: pat eby, writer If you’re lucky, Luvy Duvy’s won’t have sold the last of Grandma Elsie’s Spice Cake before you’ve finished your breakfast or lunch. Each day a cake is baked following the recipe from Cassady Caldwell’s Southern grandmother, Elsie. A fine crumb, moist texture and unexpectedly soft sweetness from two bold spices – cinnamon and clove – make this chestnut-colored cake a standout. The shiny glaze delivers a sugary hit at first bite, which is followed by a progression of smooth, sharp and intricate flavors. Although the dark color of the cake suggests it, there isn’t a hint of molasses or sorghum in the recipe. “None of that, but there’s a secret ingredient we can’t reveal,” says Caldwell’s partner, Jackie Seal. If this cake was human, she’d be a covert agent; an unpretentious woman, stolid and sensible, who keeps secrets well. I love a mystery, especially one buried in Southern food culture. Hmm. Not espresso or dark cocoa. Date purée? Maybe. Dr Pepper comes to mind, but the cake’s not talking. Good thing. I’ll need several more tastes, with black coffee and a shot of Cruzan Rum Cream. It’s cold, and Luvy Duvy’s is cozy. Two forks, please. The generous hunk of Grandma Elsie’s Spice Cake is big enough to share. Luvy Duvy’s Café 2321 Arsenal St., Benton Park, 314.776.5889 Get more of Pat’s excellent recommendations in her monthly column, Gadget-A-Go-Go, on p. 34. And check out her reports of what’s happening in the local food scene at the-feed.

Jonathan Gayman

January 2013 Feast Magazine  

FEAST Magazine delves into St. Louis' culinary scene for inspired ideas in cooking, the latest on restaurants, great gadgets, kitchen design...

January 2013 Feast Magazine  

FEAST Magazine delves into St. Louis' culinary scene for inspired ideas in cooking, the latest on restaurants, great gadgets, kitchen design...