Page 1

all-access culinary pass

your new go-to ingredient

a new brew in town

Dine in cuba

quince paste

sour beers

/ Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis /

SEPT. 2010 / FREE

modERn kITChEnS


with Rocio Romero

Inspired Food Culture

September 2010


E E R F Knife


From the seasoned chef to a novice cook, it’s essential to take care of your knives. Now, you can get your knives sharpened for FREE at select Schnucks stores! Just follow these simple steps: • Pick up a FREE Knife Sharpening sleeve. Limit 3 per visit. • Bring your knives* (one per sleeve) to Schnucks. Give to a Meat Department teammate. • All knives, up to 3 per visit, MUST be transported in a FREE sleeve provided by our Meat Department. • Your knives will be sharpened and ready for pickup in 24 hours!

CITY City Plaza Gravois Hampton Loughborough

FREE Knife Sharpening is available at the following Schnucks locations: 3431 N. Union Blvd. 7450 Hampton Ave. 60 Hampton Village Plaza 1020 Loughborough

314 381-8789 314 832-3440 314 353-5060 314 752-5333

NORTH Florissant 8200 N. Lindbergh Grandview 74 Grandview Plaza Westfall Plaza 8037 W. Florissant Ave.

314 921-7060 314 838-4540 314 679-2400

WEST Ballwin 15425 Manchester Rd. Bellerive Plaza 12756 Olive Blvd.

636 256-0644 314 434-7323

WEST (cont.) Brentwood 8800 Manchester Rd. Chesterfield 141 Hilltown Village Ctr. Des Peres 12332 Manchester Rd. Dorsett 2030 Dorsett Rd. Kirkwood 10233 Manchester Rd. Ladue 8867 Ladue Rd. Lindbergh 10275 Clayton Rd. Overland 9074 Overland Plaza Richmond Hts. 6600 Clayton Rd. Twin Oaks 1393 Big Bend Suite 1 University City 6920 Olive Blvd. Webster Groves 8650 Big Bend

314 961-5454 636 532-2505 314 965-3094 314 434-3147 314 965-7310 314 725-7574 314 991-0510 314 426-3800 314 644-0510 636 225-3777 314 726-2373 314 961-0555

WEST (cont.) Wildwood Woods Mill

16580 Manchester 1060 Woods Mill Plaza

636 458-5544 636 227-2278

SOUTH Butler Hill Concord Village High Ridge Richardson Telegraph

4333 Butler Hill Rd. 5434 Southfield Center Dr. #20 Gravois Dillon Plaza 3900 Vogel Rd. 5519 Oakville Shop. Ctr.

314 894-1227 314 849-1815 636 677-0061 636 282-3377 314 892-6401

ST.CHARLES COUNTY Cottleville 6083 Mid Rivers Mall Dr. Dardenne 3029 Hwy. K at Hwy. N

636 498-0108 636 240-6868

ST.CHARLES COUNTY (cont.) Harvester 48 Plaza Ninety-Four Dr. 636 928-1623 Mid Rivers 577 Mid Rivers Mall Dr. 636 970-2570 O’Fallon 8660VeteransMemorialPkwy. 636 978-3566 Wentzville 1960 Wentzville Pkwy. 636 332-8468 Zumbehl 1950 Zumbehl Rd. 636 947-8422 METROILLINOIS Alton 2811 Homer Adams Pkwy. Collinsville 501 Belt Line Rd. Edwardsville 2222 Troy Rd. Seven Hills 907 East Highway 50 Swansea 2665 N. Illinois St.

618 465-6673 618 345-7661 618 659-0010 618 632-5525 618 236-1414

*Excludes serrated blades and scissors. ©2010 Schnucks

Inspired Food Culture










I-70 Cave Springs Exit • 4190 N. Service Rd. • St. Peters TOLL FREE




Markets are central to culinary scene, ďŹ lling the cityscape with brightly colored produce. 6


/ Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis /


A Modern Kitchen

with Rocio Romero

Sept. 2010 from the staff

| 10 |

Check out this month’s online content!

| 12 |

from the PUBlIsher

Dine around the world without leaving the Lou.

| 14 |

The best steaks in the city – any city.

Making the



feast faVes

This month’s inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis. colUmNs

| 28 |

my stUff

David Bailey crashes at the in-laws’.

| 31 |

gadget a-go-go

We’ve put five basting brushes to the test.

| 32 |

oN the shelf

New and notable in beer, wine, and spirits.

| 34 |



mystery shoPPer

Buy it and try it: quince paste.

| 36 |

the cheat

Sabayon in five minutes flat.

| 38 |

decoNstrUcted dIshes

Explore the ingredients of kofta.

| 74 |

PUll UP a chaIr

The Alodia Counter + Bar Stool and three perfectly paired tables. COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Ashley Gieseking




River City Casino 314.388.7630 Not valid for persons on the Missouri Disassociated Persons list or who have been otherwise excluded from Lumière Place, River City or Pinnacle affiliated Casinos. Gambling Problem? Call 1.888.BETSOFF.

Inspired Food Culture



/ Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis /

Volume 1 / Issue 2 / September 2010

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor Brandi Wills Art Director Lisa Triefenbach

CommerceOptions Plus rewards you for your SM

entire banking relationship. By combining the balances in your accounts, you’ll enjoy higher rates on savings, discounts on loans, and much more.

Advertising Sales Director Donna Bischoff Copy Editors Kate Boemeke Barbara E. Stefàno

Get started at

314-746-8700 No monthly service fee with minimum balances; $12 per month if balances not met. Minimum balances: $5,000 in deposits or $10,000 in combined deposits and loans. Requires $100 minimum opening deposit. ask listen solve and call click come by are trademarks of Commerce Bancshares, Inc. © 2010 COMMERCE BANCSHARES, INC.

Contributing Writers Russ Carr, Shera Dalin, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pat Eby Chad Michael George, Jennifer Johnson, Angela Ortmann Matt Sorrell, Barbara E. Stefàno, Michael Sweeney Cassandra Vires Contributing Photographers Geoff Cardin, Ashley Gieseking, Rob Grimm, Tuan Lee Greg Rannells, Jennifer Silverberg, Carmen Trosser

Contact Us Feast Media 14522 S. Outer Forty Road Town and Country, MO 63107 Advertising Inquiries Donna Bischoff 314.340.8529 Editorial Comments

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC A Lee Enterprises Company



Inspired Food Culture




ST L .C O M O N L I N E E XC L U S I v E S > T H I S M O N T H ’S F E AST > M U LT I M E D I A VIDEOS slideshows

B LO G > F E AST E v E N T S > R E C I P E S VIRTUAL TOUR. Take an online tour of Rocio Romero’s LV home and stick around for her one-on-one with publisher Catherine Neville.


DAY IN THE LIFE. Columnist Pat Eby saves

you a place in line to meet ex-Army cook Ernie Wilson, known as Chef Ernie to the kids at Blessed Sacrament school in Belleville.

TRAVELOGUE. Columnist Heidi Dean explores the food culture of India in a four-part series spanning the month of September. Week 1: fruits and veggies.

ONLINE COLUMN SCHEDULE: MONDAY: Shop Girl Adventuress Heidi Dean takes you inside St. Louis’ hidden culinary gems. TUEsDAY:

FEAST takes you behind the scenes of the decades-old smokehouse at Annie Gunn’s with chef Lou Rook III. EXCLUSIVE VIDEO.

WEDNEsDAY: Quite the Pair Local wine expert Angela Ortmann visits a different restaurant each week, chooses a stellar dish and peruses the wine list for perfect pairings.

Dinner & a Show In partnership with KDHX 88.1 FM, we bring you each weekend’s must-see concert pick and suggest where to dine before the music begins.





Day in the Life


Each meal is an occasion to celebrate at The Gatesworth, where award-winning Executive Chef Brian Hardy and his talented staff create sumptuous dishes that tempt and delight. Experience our exquisite retirement lifestyle for yourself by calling (314) 372-2288.


One McKnight Place

Best Senior Living Community (314) 993-0111

Inspired Food Culture





hen FEAST contributor Tuan Lee said he’d be visiting

Havana, Cuba, and asked if we might be interested in

running a story on the city’s culinary culture, my answer

was an enthusiastic yes. Cuba is veiled in such mystery that to be

able to show our readers what real Cuban food and food culture are like – and give you the actual recipes – is a thrill. One of the most exciting aspects of travel is experiencing the cuisine of another culture. But you don’t have to leave St. Louis to travel the culinary world. Head to Cherokee for a spicy taste of Mexico and try real tacos topped with just a scattering of onions and cilantro. South City is host to numerous Bosnian restaurants where slow-simmered goulash and stuffed cabbage await. Fiery Thai curries beckon on South Grand and the intensely savory flavors of Chinese cuisine can be found up and down Olive Blvd. Africa, Peru, Japan, France, India, Scotland … the St. Louis region is truly


feaST eVeNTS

JOIN ME! Each month, Feast Magazine hosts cooking classes, wine tastings and other events in conjunction with St. Louis’ food industry leaders. Don’t miss your chance to interact directly with these professionals and mingle with your fellow food lovers!

Cooking Demo

a melting pot of culinary traditions. And it’s not just

Wed., Sept. 15, 6:30pm, L’Ecole Culinaire, 314.587.2433

restaurants where you can taste far-flung flavors.

Reserve your spot for a taste of Cuba at this multi-course demonstration class led by associate culinary program director Matt Borchardt. He will show you, step by step, how to make real daiquiris, black bean dip with fried plantain chips, crab fritters, pork loin with mojo criollo and sweet, silky orange flan. Wine will be served throughout the evening’s class while you enjoy the flavors of this island nation.

You can play with unfamiliar ingredients in your own kitchen – there are a number of international and specialty markets sprinkled all over the bi-state region that carry produce and products sure to inspire you to experiment.

Wine Tasting The next time you ask yourself what you’re in the

Thu., Sept. 23, 6pm, Araka Restaurant,

Expanding your culinary horizons makes the world a

Enjoy a complimentary wine tasting with columnist Angela Ortmann at Araka Restaurant in Clayton. The wines featured at this tasting will be accompanied by nibbles and tasting notes on each of the wines you sample.

much more flavorful place.

Hands-on Class

mood to have for dinner, push yourself outside your comfort zone and try something totally unfamiliar.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville

Get chopping at this Middle Eastern cooking class and make the savory kofta found on page 38, handmade pitas, baba ghanoush, a cucumber-tomato-onion salad and umm ali, an Egyptian take on bread pudding. The Schnucks Cooks team will lead you through each dish as you eat and drink your way to kitchen prowess. feedback? 12



Thu., Sept. 30, 6pm, Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, or 314.909.1704

$6""/#)$) $6""/#)$)

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75&330/.*+&330 15& 4*(! 430%8

Spooookily gruesome goodies for the perfectly horrific party!

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Plus...:DEA? ,E& :10D<"A 1# 4D<%A 1DD<8<#B &EE63$ >?D!;B? :133( 7")-O >68 >6< M)A: 8)E A68 8")<)I: N>8: @><) ? :8><)% 1)NN K>6< '< )?+: C?+ 'C@ NKD /) :" = C?KM")<) ? 8") 02;%

Fine Stationery & Gifts

9773 CLAYTON ROAD • 314.991.1104


Spicy or Mild THEATRE FOR ANY APPETITE! Mainstage 6-show Mainstage Packages start at just $81.00

+*%5'%5& +(*5&' '1$)!07!-,- !3 824$ "6)2/


.,*( FD H ?+A)<$" 9N4+D *.(DPP!D,B(B .(BQ. GC?-"):8)< 3+D #*#D*P(D!&.. MMMDC<8 :8 -'CA< -:D->@

Or Create Your Own Package with any 3 or more shows

You Can’t Take It With You September 8 - October 3 High starring Kathleen Turner October 13 - November 7 Over the Tavern December 1 - 26 The Fall of Heaven January 5 - 30 Macbeth February 9 - March 6 Beehive The 60’s Musical March 16 - April 10

Studio Theatre


3-show Packages start at just $87.00

Next Fall October 27 - November 14 The Year of Magical Thinking January 12 - 30 In The Next Room or the vibrator play March 9 - 27

Meat & Catering

Home of Real Live Butchers,with Old Fashion Butcher Service For over 75 years, The Mateker Family has supplied the St. Louis Area with the Finest in meat, deli and Seafood. In 1995 Mateker’s began to expand their business into the Catering Industry. Each catered Job is a unique exp experience, p which transforms your special hich is unp event into a delicately delicious savor, which unparalleled in the industry today. Mention this ad and receive ceive 5% OFF of a full service catering job!

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THE REPERTORY THEATRE OF ST. LOUIS • 130 Edgar Road • St. Louis, Missouri • 63119 Inspired Food Culture



FEAST FAVES / w here we’re dining

Monarch Restaurant

Monarch was always a very attractive place to indulge in contemporary cuisine, but now, after a well-executed remodel, it’s downright beautiful. In the main dining room, metal butterflies float above diners feasting on sophisticated fare like pork-stuffed squid with white anchovy toasts, fried frog’s legs with corn-filled hearts of palm or one of the most stunning tomato salads (more of an artful ensemble) we’ve seen. In the bistro, an entirely new Cajun/Creole menu beckons hungry food lovers with boudin balls, praline bacon and gumbo. This dichotomy might not work as seamlessly in a lesser restaurant, but the savvy folks behind Monarch understand how to balance cutting edge with tradition … and do so with impeccable style. 7401 Manchester Road, Maplewood




PHOTOGRAPHy by Geoff Cardin

Monarch restaurant


FEAST FAVES / s e C r e t I n g r e d I e n t FEAST FAVES / s e C r e t I n g r e d I e n t


At Nosh in Maplewood, espresso beans are given a new culinary role. After being finely ground, the coffee is used as a rub on blue marlin, which has a “steakier texture” than most fish, according to the restaurant’s chef, Angela Komis. She adds lavender buds to the dish to give a floral character that offsets bitterness imparted by the coffee. The espresso’s acidic edge is further cut when the marlin is grilled. Komis suggests home cooks “experiment with coffee as you would a ground spice. It makes a great rub. Add garlic, chiles … just play around.”

PHOTOGRAPHy By Geoff Cardin

Nosh 7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood 314.647.6966

check it out!

Feast extra

Watch chef Komis demonstrate other delicious, unique uses for coffee at

Grilled Blue Marlin


FEAST FAVES / A t h ome


|2| 314.647.5350 Sherrill Gonterman & Melissa Sinamon

Great for Healthy Grilling Glazed Chile Lime Chicken Kebobs |3|

• • • •

Yield: 8 kebobs

1 cup lime juice Zest of 3 limes 1/3 cup cilantro, chopped 4 Tbls. olive oil

• • •

2 tsp. jalapeno, minced 1/4 cup sugar 1-1/2 tsp. chili powder

For the marinade, combine above ingredients and whisk until sugar dissolves.

• 2 lbs. chicken breast, boneless pieces • 3 red peppers, cut into chunks • 1 Tbls. paprika • 16 green onions, cut into 3” • Salt & pepper to taste


| 1 | Krups Black and Stainless Burr Coffee Grinder, $69.95; Starbucks Coffee, multiple location, | 2 | Bodum BISTRO Electric Burr Grinder, $79.99; | 3 | Capresso Infinity Conical Burr Grinder, $89.99; Chef’s

For kebobs, cut chicken into 1 oz cubes. Thread 2 pieces chicken, 2 peppers and 2 green onions alternately on six-inch skewers. Reserve 1/4 cup marinade. Brush kebobs with remaining marinade, s&p and refrigerate for 30 – 60 minutes. Grill 3 - 4 minutes on each side. Brush with reserved marinade and sprinkle with paprika. Enjoy!! Great with halibut and shrimp.

CATERING & EVENT PLANNERS Specializing in Corporate, Social, Catering To-Go,Weddings and Bar Mitzvahs

Mention this ad for 10%off your next party. Food And Beverage Expires November 24, 2010

Stop, 1170 W. Gannon Drive, Festus, Inspired Food Culture



FEAST FAVES / where we’re dining

E xperience The Private Client Reser ve. In The Private Client Reserve, we bring together a team of experienced professionals focused on providing creative strategies customized to fit your specific needs and goals. We earn the privilege of being your trusted advisor and guide you financially so you can experience life — beyond the bottom line. Cheri McLaughlin Wealth Management Consultant Clayton Office 314.505.8047


City Diner 314.533.7500 Grand Center


PHOTOGRAPHy By Geoff Cardin

The Th he Post Post-Dispatch t Dispatch St Store torre

Athletic team collectibles and apparel

Historical table top books spanning decades – also available in local book stores

Diane Katzman “only in St. Louis” line of jewelry and ornaments

Check us out today! The ST. LOUIS POST-DISPATCH has been covering St. Louis news since 1878. The P-D Store brings those historical events, style, and local flavors to life through retail items available only at



City Diner City Diner is a longtime favorite and now there’s more to love with the opening of its second location. Situated in the heart of Grand Center, City Diner’s new digs are as well-designed as the food is delicious. Traditional comfort-food fare like country-fried steak and meatloaf – both served with mashed potatoes and gravy – make you feel like Mom might be in the

At tHe FOX

kitchen. A long list of breakfast options can be had at any time throughout the day. But we’re betting when you slide into one of the Diner’s retro-cool booths, you’ll go for that mid-century classic pair: a big, juicy burger and a creamy, cold shake. 541 N. Grand Ave., Grand Center



HEALTHY, BEAUTIFUL SKIN BioIdentical Hormone Replacement Therapy (BHRT) is now available at St. Louis Skin Solutions with Dr. Amy Miller . Find out how Natural Hormone Replacement can make you feel better, help you obtain healthier skin, and can improve your quality of life.

All Procedures are supervised by an on-site Board Certified Physician, Amy Miller, M.D.

These mini morsels are perfect for passing around at parties or indulging in a single-serving treat.


ST LOUIS SKIN SOLUTIONS • 314.543.4015 13100 Manchester Rd., Suite 250 Des Peres, MO 63131 Just West of 270 on Manchester

#&"4$ .4$!)2'$ 5%2'&7/2 644 72 /2$ *4)'$, MINI CAKES

Serving St. Louis for over 55 years - +7&' $2( - 3)& ( - 6**47)2'$( - 1$(7!2 - 02(&)44)&7/2


| 1 | Lemon Drop tarts and ganache fruit tarts from Katie Pie’s Pies n’ Pastries, $5-$7 for a box of five tarts; available at the Downtown Tower Grove Farmers’ Market and at Crêpes:etc., 52 Maryland Plaza, Central West End, | 2 | Carrot cake minis, $1.75 each; Russell’s Café & Bakery, 958 Brookwood Center Plaza, Fenton, | 3 | Raspberry-white chocolate cheesecake and Key lime cheesecake petit fours, $1.25 each; Pastries of Denmark, 12613 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur,

.<.71 "*('3$52$8 -%;6 +2; #&/056 "! 9 1.. 9 9; 4.;4144 '*,,0$8*(%23&):5&(;'&)

Inspired Food Culture



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FEAST FAVES / w hAT we’re drInkIng

The Shandy Typically, a Shandy is a mixture of equal parts beer and carbonated lemonade, but at Fond in Edwardsville, this traditional European cocktail is given an upscale twist. Freshly made lemonade gives the drink a tart edge, while St-Germain liqueur, which is a French liqueur made with elderflower blossoms, adds sweetness and a floral aroma. Schlafly’s medium-bodied lager is the central player in this low-alcohol sipper, offering a fresh, slightly hoppy character. This is a food-friendly cocktail; a great pair with the restaurant’s locavore-centric menu. Fond 106 N. Main St., Edwardsville

The Shandy By Stephen Cox, FOND

Serves | 1 | 3 oz 1½ oz 1 bottle

lemonade* St-Germain liqueur Schlafly Helles Style Summer Lager lemon wheel for garnish

| Preparation | In a collins glass, pour lemonade, then St-Germain. Finish with beer. Add lemon wheel for garnish.


* For a single serving of lemonade, mix the juice of 1 lemon with 1 oz simple syrup.

618.656.9001 EdwardsvillE

PHOTOGRAPHy By Geoff Cardin

BOTTLe OPeneRS | 1 | Animal House Shark bottle opener, $7.99; Target, available online only, | 2 | Recycled Bike Chain keychain bottle opener, $8; Phoenix Rising, 6331 Delmar Blvd., The Loop, | 3 | Pop Top bottle opener, $12; UMA, 1100 Locust St., Downtown,

|3| |2| |1| Inspired Food Culture



FEAST FAVES / de S i g n T r e n d S w e L ov e

C O LOR FU L C U B E S Designing with color blocks is so instinctual itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s become a staple of childhood development. (Who doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t love playing with Legos?) Add some grownup fun to your kitchen or dining area with these stylish and sophisticated storage pieces featuring eye-catching colors that are anything but square.



| 1 | Eames Storage Unit - 2x2, $1,149; Design Within Reach, 44 Maryland Plaza, Central West End,| 2 | Delicious storage system by Mathieu Lehanner, price on request; available through ToolsGalerie, lb@ | 3 | Mshelving credenza, $1,880 as shown;













s of oom at r g n g li v i them aftin n offers n of r c r a fo tio ned d Rothm ur selec g w o n an ices. O cludin re r ality, hill is in cs. Broy tched qu rdable p an ever, er fabri d o h a r unm kably aff s larger t stom O u r i a C s l e m l u re if ty eaut hill s Broy eds of b r hund


! S E EY




























Hurry! Offer ends September 15



Purchase a Broyhill living room and get a FREE matching ottoman or Broyhill living room table*


*Living purchase consists of 3-Pc. Sectional or Sofa and 2 additional upholstery pieces. Offer good through 9/15/10, must take delivery of merchandise by 9/30/10, see store for details.

O’FALLON, MO 2101 E. TERRA LANE 636-978-3500

SOUTH COUNTY 5711 S. LINDBERGH 314-892-9002

O’FALLON, IL 1776 HWAY. 50 WEST 618-632-1700

DELLWOOD 10132 W. FLORISSANT 314-388-0200

SOUTH SIDE 7737 WATSON RD. 314-968-5595

BALLWIN 14799 MANCHESTER 636-394-1800

Inspired Food Culture

ALTON 3001 WASHINGTON 618-462-9770















Columbian arepas


Oil Changes For Life

15502 Manchester Ellisville, MO

1-866-879-7692 *See delaer for details. Prices based on all rebates & incentives through 9/30/10. 300 #C54015, Town & Country #C80093



Wapango Restaurant 636.536.1151 Chesterfield

Wapango specializes in Pan-Latin cuisine, meaning that its menu offers up an eclectic range of flavors, textures and cooking techniques inspired by the foods found throughout Latin America. One of our favorites is their Columbian arepas. Arepas can take many forms, but corn, or, more frequently, cornmeal, is the base ingredient for this traditional bread-like patty. Whether baked, fried or grilled and either stuffed or topped with any number of ingredients, the arepa is common throughout most Latin cuisines.

pork carnitas. Crumbly, mildly salty queso fresco is scattered atop the pork, which is then drizzled with a slightly sweet chile-orange mojo and Mexican crema. This dish is listed in the small plate section of Wapango’s menu, but with three cakes to an order, it can certainly make a meal, especially when paired with the restaurant’s made-to-order guacamole, which is served with fresh-fried tortillas that come to your table hot, right out of the fryer.

At Wapango, piping-hot, crispy white-corn cakes are topped with black beans and tender, shredded

2020 Chesterfield Mall, Chesterfield

PHOTOGRAPHy by Geoff Cardin



PHOTOGRAPHY BY Ashley Gieseking

FEAST FAVES / s hop-o-matIC

Bertarelli Cutlery

BERTARELLI CUTLERY For 43 years, the Bertarelli family has run a modest but wellregarded kitchen supply and cutlery store on The Hill. Known mainly for their superior knives and sharpening services, the specialty store lends the region’s best chefs, caterers, butchers and home cooks the expertise they depend on to keep the tools of their trade in pristine condition. But beyond the blade, you’ll also find top brands in cookware, small appliances, gadgets and serving accessories to complete your kitchen’s arsenal. The store itself, like most of its neighboring businesses, is small but substantial, bustling but cozy, utterly professional but pleasantly personal. If you need it, they mostly likely have it; if they don’t, they’ll get it for you. Even if you’re not in the market for new kitchen essentials, a trip to their shop

314.664.4005 The hill

is eye-candy for the culinary soul. Peek over the counter and watch their skilled knife sharpeners work myriad blades to their ideal edge, from the usual kitchen suspects to garden equipment and even chainsaws. And peruse shelves of dream wares, from All-Clad cookware and Le Creuset bakeware to KitchenAid mixers and oodles of handy gadgets.

Next time you’re headed to The Hill for some authentic salsiccia and fresh ricotta, pop into Bertarelli Cutlery and spark up a conversation about your cooking habits. They’re sure to have a knife, a pan or an accessory that will become your new favorite kitchen item. 1927 Marconi Ave., The Hill

FEAST FAVES / w hat we’re drInkIng


Jennifer Johnson

September beckons outdoor cooking, and Malbecs from Argentina are dynamite with smoked, grilled and barbecued meats. French in origin, Malbec has been elevated to prominence in Argentina to become an international mainstay after surviving the risk of greedy over-cropping in post-hype years. Fullbodied and tannic, Malbec can compete with its Bordelaise counterparts, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. You will often find characteristics of dark and red fruit as well as ample earth and spice with occasional herbal notes. Argentina consistently produces remarkable examples at great values.

2007 luigi bosca Malbec,

2009 Diseño

single VineyarD Doc

Malbec, olD Vine

Mendoza, Argentina

Mendoza, Argentina

This wine greets you with aromas of baking spices, blackberries and dusty earth, with an ever so slight meatiness reminiscent of applewood bacon. Flavors of plums, black cherries and cocoa predominate, counterbalancing the medium-high tannins. Pair with smoked pork, beef spareribs or lamb shoulder.

Ignore its youth and embrace this big, daring wine and its concentrated aromatic profile of raspberries, coffee, sweet tobacco, violets and flint, followed by currant jam and a black pepper-cedar spiciness on the palate. Pair with pulled pork, beef kebabs or a juicy T-bone steak.

$25; The Wine Barrel, 3828 S. Lindbergh Blvd., Sunset Hills ,

$13; 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar, 1913 Park Ave., Lafayette Square, Inspired Food Culture



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David Bailey has returned to the roost. For the time being, at least. David and his wife, Kara, are happily bunking with Kara’s mom, affectionately known as Mo, while they renovate their new Tower Grove South digs from top to bottom. (Watch for our beforeand-after coverage in an upcoming issue.) David remarked that living at home as been eye-opening, saying, “We are rediscovering the simple pleasures of conversation, family meals and the delights and complexities of food.”

Baileys’ Chocolate Bar 1915 Park Ave., Lafayette Square 314.241.8100

WRITTEN BY Catherine Neville

Favorite after-school snack when you were a kid? Carrots. I’d cut my own carrot “chips” and drink carrot juice. / Favorite off-work nosh now? Cheese. The stinkier the better. / Go-to family dinner? Locally raised roasted chicken and seasonal roasted vegetables. / Your role in the family meal? Dave: cook. Kara: dishwasher. Mo: drinking and color commentary. / Favorite beer-drinking nibbles? Pretzels and mustard / Musthave kitchen gadget? Food mill. One of the first meals I made for

Rooster crepe. sandwich. cafe. 1104 Locust St., Downtown 314.241.8118

Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar 1004 Locust St., Downtown 314.241.8141

Pictured from left to right: Brynne Rinderknecht, Kara Bailey, David Bailey and MaryEllen Picker



Kara was sweet-potato gnocchi. / Must-have appliance for your new kitchen? Induction cooktop / Dream dinner? Kara, my friends and family and a bunch of local foods. If they happen to be in town, Michael Pollan, Anthony Bourdain, Cat Cora, Terry Gross and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. / Ideal day off? Sleep in. Lunch at Rooster. Long walk with Kara. Bloody Marys on the patio at Absolutli Goosed. Beer and pretzels at Bridge. Dinner at Franco. Mexican chocolate martini at Baileys’.




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MANCHESTER ............... Manchester Rd. E/141 across from Starbucks ... 636-391-8600 SUNSET HILLS .............. Lindbergh & Watson near Home Depot .............. 314-821-5066 LADUE.......................... Ladue Rd. & 1-170 next to Maggie Moos ........... 314-726-5505 ST. PETERS................... 94 & Mid Rivers Mall Dr./94 Crossing ................ 636-928-9474 CHESTERFIELD VALLEY ..... Chesterfield Commons Near Lowe's .................. 636-519-8400 FENTON........................ Gravois Bluffs/behind Walgreens ...................... 636-326-9972 SWANSEA..................... Rte.159/1 Blk. S. of Outback Steak House ......... 618-235-1969

gadget a-go-go

Put to the test



BRUSHES written by Pat Eby

Culinary-style silicone Brush 2-in-1 Brush Pros

One brush, two heads. natural boar bristles produced even coverage with thin sauces and butters. the nicely balanced head rotated to silicone for basting vegetables and meats. the head snapped from the handle for easy cleanup.

Progressive Barbecue sauce Mop


Good looks. A polka-dotted lime green handle and fat yellow bristles made the A-list for parties. Olive oil on crostini and a butter-brandy glaze for stuffed mushrooms smoothed on quick and thick. no second passes needed. Color choice, red or green, kept the meat brush separate from the veggie brush. the head twists off. both handle and head will survive the dishwasher, too.


Handwashing caused some of the natural bristles to drop from the ferrule. the flat silicone side didn’t hold as much sauce as others that were tested. the stainless steel handle heated up on the stovetop. $9.95; Crate and Barrel, 1 The Boulevard , Richmond Heights,


the short handle makes it tough to use at the grill without singeing forearms. $6; Pier 1 Imports, multiple locations,

oxo good grips silicone Basting Brush Pros

Functionality in design stood out. Sturdier strips of silicone aerated with holes at the center and surrounded on each side by finer bristles held more sauce. the soft handle provides a cushy grip. Spreading sauce went easy on the wrists thanks to the bent-angled design of the head. Put this brush down and it won’t kiss the counter, either. Cons

the center bristles dragged on soft dough when butter-basting yeast rolls. Lightening the pressure eliminated the problem.


the perfect tool for slopping chickens, rib slabs and plenty-thick pork steaks with gallons of sauce. A-plus design. the mop, a rectangle of silicone cut and shaped to fold into loops, levers in and out of the stainless steel shaft. the grip’s silicone, too. Head comes off for easy cleaning. the sweet spot? A bottle opener at the end of a long handle. One brush, where the mechanics and the zen of grilling meet. Cons

A one-trick pony, too big for basting meats indoors. but what a trick. the most fun brush of the bunch. $16.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood,

$12.95; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton,

durable silicone Basting Brush Pros

Value and versatility in one brush. the great oval shape and density held thicker sauces well and didn’t drip the fruit and butter bastes, either. the long-enough bamboo handle transitioned well indoors and at the grill. Available in red, green or white; buying three would keep crosscontamination at a minimum. Cons

the bamboo handle seemed a little skinny for a comfortable grip. At the grill, keep it on a side table, safe from flare-ups. $7.99; Whole Foods Market, multiple locations,

Chec k out

Materials: Silicone brushes offer great heat tolerance, flexibility, stain resistance and easy cleanup. the ends don’t fuse or clump like nylon can, even in the high heat of the grill. bristles won’t migrate into the food, either, as sometimes happens with natural bristles. Functionality: Match brush selection to the cooking task. Medium and large brushes work well for hamburgers, chicken and vegetables. the mop makes quick work of slapping steaks,

ribs and chicken halves with beaucoup barbecue. Smaller, flexible brushes add butter to stuffed mushrooms and move smoothly over bread dough. easy Cleanup: new brushes, both silicone and the 2-in-1 with natural bristles, snap apart for cleaning. Silicone can cycle through the dishwasher, too. even handwashing the silicone brushes will roust crusted sauce and sloughed butter with ease.



W hat to l oo k For :

Try one of these brushes when grilling chef Lou Rook III’s smoked beef tenderloin. Inspired Food Culture



ON The SheLf

BEER written by Michael Sweeney

When not using his spare time to make fun of people who write blogs, Michael Sweeney writes the beer blog The irony is lost on him.

Amalgamated Brewing Co. Tallgrass Brewing Co. Buffalo Sweat Zoigl Style: Zoigl (5% abv)

Style: Sweet Stout (5% abv)

AvAilAble At: The Stable, 1821 Cherokee St., Benton Park,; $5 (16-oz draught)

AvAilAble At: Lukas Liquor, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville,; $7.99 (four-pack 16-oz cans)

if you’ve never heard of a Zoigl before, you’re in good company. A Zoigl isn’t actually a style of beer as much as it is a German tradition. A group of people would brew up a community batch of wort (unfermented beer) and then each person would take their share home to ferment. Amalgamated’s Zoigl is a crisp, easy drinking lager that provides plenty of malt in the flavor and a slight citrus aroma in the nose.

Don’t be afraid of dark beer! So often people will associate a dark beer with a “heavy” beer. tallgrass’s buffalo Sweat has a lighter body than many people may be used to in a stout, but that makes it the perfect beer as we transition from summer to fall. this beer is slightly sweet, but has a robust coffee flavor. PAiringS: Chocolate cake / Fresh fruit tart

Lagunitas Brewing Co. A Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ Ale Style: American Wheat (7.3% abv) AvAilAble At: 33 Wine Shop and Tasting Bar, 1913 Park Ave., Lafayette Square,; $10 (six-pack)

A comment i hear very often is, “i’m not really into wheat beers.” Some beer drinkers just expect more out of their beer; they want something a bit bolder. Lagunitas’s A Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ provides just that. the aroma reminds you of a hefty iPA, but the bitterness is kept rather low, resulting in a very refreshing beer. PAiringS: Pho / Carnitas / Fontina cheese

PAiringS: Gumbo / Jerk chicken pizza

What’s on the shelf sePteMBeR WINE written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann gained a passion for all things epicurean by working in the luxury restaurants and hotels of St. Louis and San Francisco. Through her event and consultation business, she is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

Join angela ortmann and feast publisher Catherine neville for a happy hour wine tasting on thu., sept. 23, at 6pm at araka Restaurant. RsVP by emailing 32


2009 Leitz “Leitz Out”

2009 Zestos Blanco

ProvenAnce: Rheingau, Germany

ProvenAnce: Spain

AvAilAble At: Provisions Gourmet Market, 11615 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur,; $11.99

AvAilAble At: Wines of Wildwood, 2418 Taylor Road, Wildwood, winesofwildwood. com; $11.99

it’s not sweet, it’s not dry. with aromas of ripe citrus and lively acidity, this versatile wine is doing what German riesling does best. it is a sipping wine that also pairs well with food and will still carry into the holidays. enjoy this wine outdoors on an indian summer night or paired with any number of spicy Asian dishes.

Despite its name, this wine is not a blend, it's 100 percent Malvar. never heard of it? that’s OK, most of us haven’t. no bother; concentrate on its full-bodied tropical fruit flavors. this wine sees no oak so it maintains a vibrant acidity and a clean finish. Fans of unoaked Chardonnay will truly enjoy this fresh alternative.

Food PAiringS: Effortless – Prosciuttowrapped melon / Dine Out & Delivery – Curry / Special Occasion – Ginger-lime shrimp

Food PAiringS: Effortless – Fruit-based salsas / Dine Out & Delivery – Crab cakes / Special Occasion – Teriyaki chicken with pineapple

2008 Maysara 3 Degrees Pinot Noir ProvenAnce: McMinnville, Oregon AvAilAble At: Starr’s Market, 1135 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights,; $16.99

From the youngest female winemaking team in the U.S. comes this certified biodynamically grown Pinot noir. Flavors of cherry, pomegranate and fresh nutmeg are rounded out with elegant tannins and fine structure. this young wine – it could benefit from decanting – is drinkable now, but will continue to evolve over the next few years. Food PAiringS: Effortless – Brie / Dine Out & Delivery – Bacon cheeseburger / Special Occasion – Duck and wild mushroom risotto

SPIRITS written by Chad Michael George

Chad Michael George is an award-winning sommelier and mixologist, born and raised in St. Louis. He is the founder of the Proof Academy, which covers all things wine and spirits related, from wine and cocktail list consulting to detailed spirits and mixology education for the hospitality industry and the general public.


Maker’s Mark 46 (47% abv) Provenance: Loretto, Kentucky available at: The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton,; $35

the first new product from Maker’s Mark in over 50 years, the “46” gets some extra oak treatment before bottling via French oak staves placed in the barrel for roughly nine weeks. this process gives the bottling an extra hint of caramel, vanilla and cinnamon. All the flavor hits you right in the middle of your tongue, a point of pride for the distiller. this is a must have for any bourbon drinker. Quantities are limited. try it neat or on a few rocks, if you please.

Corrido Añejo Single Barrel Tequila (40% abv) Provenance: Jalisco, Mexico available at: The Wine and Cheese Place, multiple locations,; $48

Finally, some fairly priced, smaller production tequilas are making it to our market. this Añejo, aged 18 months, is the best of the Corrido lineup. it has a deliciously smooth, warm mouth feel. there are strong notes of toasty caramel and butter, the Los Altos Highlands trademark pepper and a hint of chocolate. this is a whiskey lover’s tequila at a great price.

Cocchi Americano Apertivo (16.5% abv) Provenance: Asti, Italy available at: Lukas Liquor, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville,; $23

this italian aperitif has been in production since 1891, but just recently made it to our fair city. its life begins as a muscato d’asti – this region is known for producing some of the best. the wine is then infused with a blend of fruit and herbs, including bitter orange and gentian roots. think Lillet blanc but more bitter. Some will enjoy this on the rocks. Others will find a home for it in the classics that used to call for Kina Lillet, which no longer exists.

We have an impressive selection ofthe bestwines fromyour Missouri & Illinoiswineries including MountPleasant, Stone Hill, St.James, CrownValley, Hermannhof, Illinois Cellars,Augusta and Montellewines. We offer discounts on case purchases aswell as acceptyourspecial orders -All atsignature Shop ’n Save Prices!

Inspired Food Culture



mySTery Shopper

rosemary Quince Glazed Chicken BY PaM sMith, YOUR HOMe BISTRO PeRSOnAL CHeF SeRVICe

Serves | 4 | 4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves ¼ cup flour salt and freshly ground pepper 2 Tbsp butter 2 Tbsp olive oil ½ cup finely diced onion 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup chicken broth 1 cup dry white wine 1 Tbsp Dijon mustard juice and zest of 1 large lemon 2 Tbsp minced fresh rosemary 4 oz quince paste, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp sliced toasted almonds

| Preparation | Pound chicken breast to create an

even thickness. wash and pat dry with paper towels. Combine flour with salt and pepper to taste. Dredge chicken in flour. Heat butter and olive oil over medium-high heat in a skillet just large enough to hold chicken in one layer without overlapping. Add chicken and brown on both sides. Remove chicken from pan. Add onion and sauté until translucent. Add garlic and sauté briefly.

Deglaze pan with broth and wine. Add Dijon mustard, lemon juice, zest and rosemary. Bring liquid to a simmer and add the sliced quince paste. Simmer and stir until the quince paste melts. Return chicken to the pan. Turn to coat with sauce. Reduce heat, cover and cook until sauce is thick and chicken is cooked, about 15 to 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper. Serve chicken with sauce and top with toasted almonds.

meeT: Quince PasTe wRITTen BY Shera Dalin

are under-utilized. Most refrigerators contain at least one type of preserved, sweetened fruit, but it typically ends up on Junior’s PB&J. These condiments, however, can be used to add sweet nuance to many

What is it?

Related to apples and pears, the fuzzy, yellow quince was once a staple of the Colonial American fruit basket. But these days, quince trees don’t fare well in American orchards because of disease, so you’re not likely to find fresh quince in your local grocery store. Instead, reach for a jar of quince paste to add the fruit’s delicate apple-pear flavor to your home cooking. The fruit’s hard, bitter flesh sweetens and turns a rosy shade when cooked and made into a paste. Quince paste, also referred to as membrillo, is commonly used in Spain, where tapas restaurants serve squares of manchego cheese topped with a square of quince paste and speared with a toothpick. The combination of savory, salty cheese

and sweet quince complement each other well. You can find similar presentations locally at tapas restaurants and on cheese boards throughout the St. Louis area. hoW do i use it?

Add quince paste to your next cheese presentation alongside a variety of nuts. You can also use quince paste as a spread on sandwiches, as a filling in pastries or as a flavoring element for main dishes. Some forms of the paste have a smooth texture and others have a grainy feel. It cooks beautifully as a sweet counterpoint to meats; try adding it to compotes and pan sauces to enhance the flavor of pork. It also combines well with cream cheese in either a spread or a filling.

dishes, and one in particular to try is quince paste. 34


check it out!

FeaST exTra

Stop by Straub’s to pick up more delicious recipes featuring quince paste. Visit for information on their four locations.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Carmen Troesser

Jams, jellies and fruit pastes




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Sabayon STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassandra Vires

The Italians call it zabaglione. In Columbia it’s sabajón. And in Uruguay it’s called sambayón. Most believe the Italians actually invented this creamy, light, custard-like dessert in the 16th century, but it is the French, who declare it to be sabayon, who have truly mastered the dish. No matter how it is pronounced, it is easy to agree it is delicious, but many find it difficult to make. Just as the name differs from country to country, so do recipes, but the base is always the same: egg yolks, sugar and some type of liquid. The liquid is where recipes vary. Marsala wine, Champagne or brandy are most frequently used, but there are non-alcoholic variations using juice or even water.

As with all custards, the challenge is to cook the yolks properly without making, well, scrambled eggs. In a standard sabayon recipe, yolks are whisked with sugar in a double boiler for about 20 minutes to gradually cook them. The increase in temperature should be in increments of no more than 10°F, gradually building to a finished temperature of 176°F. The cooking of the egg yolks is actually what thickens the dish, so it’s critical to get this step right. As you slowly heat yolks, their volume expands and density lightens. Add cream and call it custard. In sabayon, however, there is no cream, which technically makes it a caudle, a term rarely used in modern cooking that means a warm, wine-fortified drink. Once the sabayon base is properly made, it is simple to add whipped egg whites, whipped cream or even mascarpone to make a light and airy mousse. There is a way around all that careful whisking, though, so you can happily incorporate this lovely dessert into your cooking repertoire. Sabayon is great for dressing up cakes, fresh fruit or, as in this recipe, delicious, harvest-fresh, roasted figs. With this “cheat,” all you need is a blender and, start to finish, less than five minutes. Egg whites are incorporated into this recipe to not only provide stability, but also add an airiness that mimics the density change yolks experience during the cooking process in typical recipes. It’s interesting to note that originally, sabayon wasn’t cooked at all. Over the years, people became worried about raw eggs and discovered the change in texture when cooking. This recipe falls somewhere in the middle, actually making it more traditional. Cassandra Vires is the executive chef and manager of Ernesto’s Winebar in Benton Park. She received her culinary training in Houston, Texas, and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.



Watch our step-by-step online video feastSTL .com

Quick Sauternes Sabayon with Honey Roasted Figs This dish relies heavily on the seasonality of the fruit. If fresh figs aren’t available, substitute whatever fruits are – peaches, plums, cherries, nectarines, apricots, apples and pears are all appropriate substitutes.

Serves | 8 to 10 | 1 cup 5 ½ cup 12 1 Tbsp 3 Tbsp

Sauternes, or other dessert wine whole eggs, separated white sugar fresh green or black figs unsalted butter, room temperature clover honey kosher salt, as needed hazelnuts, shelled and toasted

While the Sauternes is heating, place egg yolks and sugar in a blender and mix on high speed for 30 seconds. | 1 | Using the top feed tube, slowly add heated wine while the motor is running. Let mix for another 30 seconds. Again using the top feed tube, slowly add the egg whites and mix for 60 seconds or until frothy.

| Preparation | Preheat oven to

Transfer sabayon to a serving dish and place in fridge while roasting figs.

350°F. Place Sauternes in a small sauce pan and bring to a simmer.

| 2 | Remove the stems from the

figs and halve lengthwise. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and spread softened butter on top of parchment. Place figs in the lined pan, cut side up, and drizzle with honey. Lightly sprinkle with salt.

| 3 | Place in oven and bake for 5 to 7 minutes, or until figs soften and honey starts to brown. Transfer warm figs to dessert plates and drizzle with sabayon. Garnish with toasted hazelnuts and serve immediately.

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|3| Inspired Food Culture






WRITTEN BY Gabrielle DeMichele RECIPE BY Gabrielle DeMichele, Nate Bonner and Lucy Schnuck

Kofta is a Middle Eastern or South Asian meatball or meatloaf that is sometimes referred to as kefta. In its popular form, koftas are made of minced or ground meat, most often lamb or beef, and lots of spices. It is sometimes mixed with rice, bulgur or eggs to form a ball and can be made with fish or vegetables for variety and preference. Although not eaten on a stick, it is often grilled or baked on flat skewers. We have taken liberties with this recipe to make it a loose filling, fragrant with exotic spices and quick to prepare.


Gabrielle De Michele, Nate Bonner and Lucy Schnuck are part of the Schnucks Cooks Cooking School team. They work together to formulate original recipes, brainstorming the best ingredients, methods and techniques to employ when teaching classes at the Des Peres Schnucks location.

Kofta Serves | 6 to 8 | 1 Tbsp 1 4 to 6 cloves ½ lb ½ lb ½ lb ½ lb 1½ tsp 1 tsp 1½ Tbsp 1 tsp 1 Tbsp 1 pinch

canola oil large Vidalia onion, diced garlic, sliced ground lamb ground pork ground beef ground veal Korintje cinnamon ground coriander cumin, plus more to taste curry powder sweet paprika sugar salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

| Preparation | Preheat a large skillet over medium heat, then add the oil.

When the oil starts to shimmer, add the onion and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the sliced garlic and heat through, for 1 minute. Add all the meat to the pan and sauté until brown. Drain off all of the fat and add the cinnamon, coriander, cumin, curry and paprika. Heat through for another 2 minutes or until thoroughly cooked and fragrant. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve. Serve with split pitas, filling the pita with the kofta mixture, a chiffonade of lettuce, chopped tomatoes and tahini sauce (recipe follows). Visit for an exclusive handmade pita recipe.


1 cup 1 cup 2 cloves 3 1¼ tsp 1 pinch



tahini * Greek yogurt juice of 1 lemon garlic, chopped scallions, thinly sliced kosher salt, plus more as needed cayenne pepper

| Preparation | Put all the ingredients in a large bowl and mix together well. Taste for seasoning and correct if necessary. Chill until ready to serve. * Tahini is a jarred sesame-seed paste available at most grocery stores.

Get hands-on with Gabrielle DeMichele and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville on Thu., Sept. 30. Learn to make kofta with homemade pita and tahini sauce; baba ganoush; cucumber, mint and tomato salad; and umm ali, an Egyptian bread pudding.

Coriander is an aromatic Eurasian herb in the parsley family, which we know as cilantro. The seedlike fruit of this plant is known as coriander and is used whole or ground.


Cinnamon is the inner bark of a tropical evergreen tree, which is pliable when harvested but dries in quills. It is then sold as cinnamon sticks or ground into powder. Ceylon cinnamon is mildly sweet in flavor. Cassia cinnamon is more pungent, slightly bittersweet in flavor and is the form sold as “cinnamon” in the United States. Korintje cinnamon is from southwestern Sumatra, an island in Indonesia. Korintje cinnamon is delicate, smooth and fragrant, and is found in many stores and supermarkets. Cinnamon is used in sweet dishes in Europe and the U.S., but has wide culinary uses. In India, for instance, cinnamon is generally found in savory dishes such as curries.

Cumin Cumin is the dried seed harvested from the herb Cuminum cyminum, a member of the parsley family. Cumin is an ancient spice and has been found in the tombs of Pharaohs and mentioned in the Old Testament. This spice has a distinctive aroma and a slightly bitter but warm taste. It’s available as whole seeds or a ground powder, which has a stronger flavor. It is the second most popular spice in the world, second to pepper, and plays a major role in Mexican, Thai, Vietnamese and Indian cuisines. It’s also a popular seasoning in the fiery chili recipes of the southwestern U.S. When cumin is not available, chile powder is an acceptable substitute.

Paprika Paprika is a fine powder ground from certain varieties of Capsicum annuum (a type of pepper) which vary in size and shape. They may be small and round (Spain and Morocco) or pointed and cone shaped (Hungary and California). They are larger and milder than chile peppers. Paprika is produced from peppers ripened to redness, sometimes called “pimento,” the same as used to stuff olives. The powder can vary in color from bright red to rusty brown, its bouquet is slightly warm and sweet, and the flavor ranges from sweet and mild to pungent and fiery. You can substitute smoked paprika here, which is made from slow smoking the peppers over oak, resulting in an intoxicating smoky aroma.

Meat While we have used four different types of meat, this dish can be made with just lamb or beef, or any combination desired. The addition of the pork adds another layer of flavor and is wellsuited to American tastes.

Greek Yogurt Greek yogurt is typically made of either ewe or cow’s milk, with the later being sold almost exclusively in the U.S. After milk is heated and cultured, the Greek method allows the milk to sit in muslin or cheesecloth bags so the whey filters away. This process produces a thick, smooth, creamy yogurt that is flavorful whether made with whole or nonfat milk and without the bitterness associated with some yogurts. If you wish to substitute regular yogurt, just let it sit in a fine mesh sieve over a bowl for 15 minutes to let it thicken. PHOTOGRAPHY BY Rob Grimm

SAVE 8.00 UP $ TO

Present this coupon at any Science Center ticket station for $2.00 off any full-price admission to any OMNIMAX® film.

Offer excludes feature-length films. Limit 4 redemptions per coupon. May not be redeemed for cash, duplicated or combined with any other discount. Tickets subject to availability. Showtimes available at Offer good through October 7, 2010.



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“How much arugula could you buy with a $150 cash bonus from M&I Bank?”*

Just add three qualifying services to any M&I personal checking account and you’ll get $150 to spend on your favorite vegetable! Stop by your nearest St. Louis M&I Bank location for all the delicious details.

Over 160 years of integrity, stability and strength

*A personal M&I Bank checking account is required to take advantage of this offer. Offer expires September 30, 2010. To be eligible for the bonus, you must apply with an M&I Bank Personal Banker at the same time for the services you choose. Offer applies to the applicable new services added to a personal M&I Bank checking account. Limit one cash bonus offer per customer. Cash bonus will be added to your account within two weeks of completing the required activity. Products and services are subject to approval. Account services must remain active for 90 days. Offer available for accounts opened in St. Louis market only. Member FDIC ©2010 Marshall & Ilsley Corporation 10-802-702




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Visit our showroom and bring in your measurements for "to the penny" pricing.


1515 Page Industrial Blvd. St. Louis, MO 63132 314-802-4107

335 Market Place Fairview Heights, IL 1-877-ROCK-777

W W W. C A S T L E R O C K R E M O D E L I N G . C O M Inspired Food Culture





with Rocio Romero WRITTEN BY Brandi Wills


PHOTOGRAPHY BY Ashley Gieseking

Acclaimed architectural designer Rocio Romero gives a primer on modern kitchen design using elements employed in her modern minimalist LV home in Perryville, Mo.




Go on a virtual tour of Romero’s prefab LV home at



KEEP ART SIMPLE. “Art in a modern space has to respect the architecture or else it will stick out like a sore thumb,” says Romero. “Go simple. It’s better to invest a significant amount on one really good painting than on 10 or 20 that are so-so and end up cluttering the space.”

Storage PUT EVERYTHING IN ITS PLACE. Incorporating significant storage minimizes clutter and preserves the clean lines of the space. It also keeps your tools within reach: “You can pretty much stand in one place, reach in front, behind, below, above, and have it all right there,” says Romero. Simple and affordable IKEA cabinetry, used here, can be purchased and installed locally through

Recessed Lighting

Natural Light

DON’T CROSS THE LINES. Canister lights in the ceiling and a hidden rope light behind the cabinets’ trim provide additional lighting without disrupting the horizontality of the kitchen’s design. “Subtle lighting sources create a warm glow and reflect nicely off the stainless steel elements,” says Romero.

GO WITH THE FLOW. “I designed this kitchen such that the top of the cabinet meets the bottom side of the clerestory to allow a lot of light to come in, but also to blend in with the rest of the home,” says Romero. “Modern kitchens are designed to fit the architecture of the home so it becomes part of the same vocabulary.”

Modern Materials REPEAT THE BASICS. Stainless steel and white lacquer are aesthetic staples of modern design. The stainless steel countertops match the clear, anodized aluminum of the windows and the stainless appliances, and the white lacquer on the cabinets and island matches that of the dining table.

Hidden Elements IF YOU CAN’T FIGHT IT, HIDE IT. “Refrigerators, for me, are the trickiest element to design within the kitchen because they’re vertical, which clashes with the clean, horizontal lines of the cabinets and countertops. So I came up with a wall that hides the refrigerator and includes a pantry for added storage. It keeps the fridge from being visually predominant from other points of the home.”

Colors REFINE YOUR PALETTE. “Pick a palette, keep it simple and stick to it,” recommends Romero. “Here we’ve used white, metal, brown, beige and black; all these elements are repeated through furnishings and finishes throughout the home, which is important to creating visual flow.” Inspired Food Culture



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wrITTen bY Matt Sorrell


pHoTograpHY bY Rob Grimm

Chefs usually have no problem weighing in on culinary subjects, and knives are no exception. We asked four local chefs about the blades they use to ply their trade, and what you should consider when choosing your own.

Chef’s Knife Fujiwara 8-inch Gyuto - FKh SerieS, 180mm

Brian Hardesty, executive chef at Terrene, likes his knives, and while he has some pretty pricey ones at his disposal, the one that gets used most is his 8-inch Fujiwara chef’s knife, or gyuto. “It’s a really good utility knife and you don’t have to drop a whole lot of money on it,” Hardesty says. “The blade is very thin and flexible, goes right through vegetables, meat, whatever. You can do any job with that one knife. If you have to decide on one knife, then always go to the gyuto style.“ Hardesty generally prefers Japanese-made knives for their blade flexibility as well as their keen edge. However, he cautions that the Fujiwara he uses, as well as many other types of Japanese cutlery, has a carbon steel blade, which holds a great edge but does require frequent sharpening. It also is prone to corrosion and pitting, so diligent maintenance is a must. $62;

Inspired Food Culture



Paring Knife WÜsthof-trident ClassiC 3½-inCh paring knife

“You don’t need a whole lot of knives,” says Greg Ziegenfuss, executive chef at Butler’s Pantry, just a few must-haves: a chef’s knife, a good bread knife, maybe a boning or slicing knife. Although not as beefy as the others on his list, Ziegenfuss says having a quality paring knife on hand is also paramount. His choice is a Wüsthof-Trident Classic paring knife with a 3½-inch composite steel blade, which can be sharpened to – and hold – a fine edge. It also has some flex, which is important when doing detail work like turning vegetables. In addition to handling its main mission of coring and peeling, a paring knife is also a good choice for users who aren’t comfortable with a bigger blade or who cook on a smaller scale, says Ziegenfuss. “A lot of things you can do with a chef’s knife you can do with a paring knife,” he says. “It’s versatile for a home cook who doesn’t need to dice up a handful of green onions, but maybe only four or five.” $40; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton,

Boning Knife forsChner 5½-inCh boning knife

Marc Del Pietro, executive chef at Luciano’s Trattoria, knows a thing or two about butchering, and his choice for a boning knife is a Forschner with a 5½ -inch blade. One of the primary things to avoid in a boning knife is a straight blade, Del Pietro says. A pronounced curve on the tip of the blade is key, since that’s the part that does about 60 percent of the cutting. Del Pietro says the Forschner has curve to spare. He prefers boning blades of stainless steel, since they’re resistant to pitting and corrosion, which can happen in no time flat when carbon steel is exposed to blood and fluids, and stainless is also pretty flexible. Handle-wise, he says wood is a good choice because it doesn’t get as slippery when wet, and control is über-important during butchering. “The biggest thing with any knife is balance,” says Del Pietro. “You really want a well-balanced knife for your hand.” $20-$25; Bertarelli Cutlery, 1927 Marconi Ave., The Hill, 46


Inspired Food Culture




When it comes to slicing bread, a traditional flat blade just won’t cut it, as they say. “You really need to be able to saw through a loaf of bread, as opposed to using a flat chef’s knife to slice,” says Josh Allen, owner of Companion Bakery. Of course, sharpness is imperative, as is a serrated edge, but blade length is crucial as well. You’ll see a lot of bread knives out there with 8-inch blades, but Allen says the best bet is 10 to 12 inches of steel. In the Companion kitchen, the choice is a 10-inch Bertarelli serrated bread knife. In addition to the length, Allen likes the stiffness of the blade. It has precious little flex, a quality of utmost importance when making your way through a particularly crusty loaf. $15; Bertarelli Cutlery, 1927 Marconi Ave., The Hill,




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When Feast contributor Tuan Lee embarked on a cultural trip

to photograph the people and customs of Cuba with his mentor, noted photographer Michael Eastman, he returned bearing a number of savory stories. His collection of sights, sounds and flavors surrounding the country’s cuisine are rarely experienced by the average American traveler. WRITTEN BY Brandi Wills RECIPES COURTESY La Cocina de Lilliam





Camarones a la Crema â&#x20AC;&#x201C; recipe on page 52

Inspired Food Culture



Camarones a la Crema (Shrimp a la Créme) Serves | 4 |

La Cocina de Lilliam

is a culinary One of Havana’s few family-owned restaurants, gem and a true reflection of owner Lilliam Dominguez Palenzuela’s lifelong passions. Exquisitely composed and pleasantly presented, each recipe has been honed, tested and retested until the sagacious chef is satisfied it can no longer be improved upon. She began cooking as a teenager, learning from her mother and a neighbor who shared her kitchen and her culinary knowledge openly with Palenzuela. Fifteen years ago, the Cuban government allowed, for the first time, the opening of small private businesses as a way to combat increasing economic problems caused by the lack of political and financial support from the U.S.S.R. Palenzuela took the opportunity to leave her then-career as a fashion designer and open her own restaurant, bringing with her an eye for detail and visual appeal. Today, Palenzuela happily cooks alongside her daughter Cleo and brother Carlos, while her sons and her husband Ulloa help keep the restaurant running smoothly. Every visit is a new experience, as Palenzuela continuously changes the menu, furnishings, plants and atmosphere to meet her evolving vision of perfection.

pictured on page 51

2 Tbsp


1 Tbsp

olive oil

1 Tbsp

minced garlic

½ cup

chopped chard

1½ lbs

shrimp, peeled and de-veined

3 Tbsp

dry white wine

3 Tbsp

oyster sauce

4 Tbsp

heavy cream

1 pinch

freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation | Melt butter with olive oil in pan on medium heat and sauté minced garlic and chard until chard begins to wilt, about 3 to 4 minutes. Do not allow garlic to burn. Raise heat to medium-high and add shrimp. Sauté until shrimp begin to turn pink but are not yet fully cooked. Deglaze pan with wine and allow to reduce slightly. Add oyster sauce and heavy cream. Cook briefly until mixture is thickened and shrimp are cooked through. Sprinkle with black pepper before serving.



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Cuban cuisine

has its origins in Spanish, Portuguese, Creole and Chinese traditions, with its geography introducing seafood and indigenous tropical fruits and root vegetables into the mix. Authentic Cuban cooking focuses on natural ingredients with predominant flavors and includes distinctive (but difficult to acquire) spices, most notably garlic, cumin and oregano. Markets and street food are central to Havana’s culinary scene, filling the cityscape with brightly colored produce and freshly butchered meats. Aromas of traditional Cuban sandwiches cooking in a sandwich press waft past lines of people chatting as they wait their turn at the windows of popular juice stands.

Pulpo Al Ajillo (Sautéed Octopus in Garlic) Serve with roasted potatoes or a side of toasted bread with olive oil and a pinch of oregano. Serves | 2 to 3 |

Pulpo Al Ajillo - recipe right

1 lb


1 Tbsp

minced garlic

2 Tbsp

minced onion

3 Tbsp


1 Tbsp

olive oil

3 Tbsp

oyster sauce

1 Tbsp

heavy cream

½ cup

diced chard

3 Tbsp

dry white wine roasted red peppers (add to preference)

| Preparation | Rinse the octopus and boil in a pressure cooker for approximately 3 hours, or until tender. Skin and cut the octopus into pieces. Sauté octopus in garlic and onion with butter and olive oil and add oyster sauce, heavy cream, chard and finally the white wine. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes and, just before serving, add roasted peppers.

Frituras de Malanga (Malanga Fritters) Malanga is a brown root found mainly in tropical areas, including Cuba and Puerto Rico. It is usually ground into a paste which can be used to make rich starchy flour or an assortment of foods. It can be found locally in the South Grand neighborhood at Jay International Food Co., 3172 S. Grand Blvd. Serves | 4 to 5 | 2 cups 1 1 Tbsp 1 tsp

Frituras de Malanga - recipe right



grated malanga egg flour salt

1 Tbsp

chopped parsley

1 Tbsp

chopped cilantro

| Preparation | Combine malanga, egg, flour, salt, parsley and cilantro. Deep-fry the mixture by the spoonful, approximately 2 Tbsp each, until golden brown. Remove and place on napkins to absorb the oil. Serve four to a plate, garnished as desired.

Inspired Food Culture



Lomo Especial (Special Pork Loin) Serves | 6 to 8 | 1

pictured below

pork loin, approximately 3 to 4 lbs, butterflied* salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ lb 1 15-oz ½ lb 1 lb

smoked ham, sliced ¼-inch thick can halved peaches pre-cooked, thick-slice pepper bacon Spanish chorizo

1 cup

pitted prunes

1 cup

sautéed green and red peppers, cooled

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. Generously season both sides of butterflied pork loin with salt and pepper. Begin to layer remaining ingredients in the middle third of the loin in

the following order: ham, peach halves, bacon, chorizo, prunes and peppers. Wrap the ends of the loin over the layered center and tie it at 1-inch intervals with butcher’s twine. Roast for approximately 45 minutes or until internal temperature of the loin reaches 130°F. (Stuffing components are already cooked and you do not want to dry out the pork loin “wrapper.”) Let rest 15 minutes. When cooled, cut into medallions, snipping off butcher’s twine as you go. * For an excellent guide on how to butterfly a pork loin, visit−to−butterfly−a−bo neless−pork−loin.

St. Louis photographer Tuan Lee has been traveling the world, expanding his artistic and culinary repertoire, for 12 years. As an editorial and commercial photographer, he specializes in photographing people. Tuan would like to thank Havana producer Luis Lago Diaz for his generous assistance and Carlos Urdanivia for his gracious company.

Join chef-instructor Matt Borchardt and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville for an authentic Cuban cooking demo on Wed., Sept. 15 at 6:30PM. Call 314.587.2433 to reserve your space today! 56


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Joe the butcher says...

Welcome to my backyard grill.

Steak Alternatives Beef Hanger or Skirt Steak: My first experience with hanger steak was at a steakhouse in Puerto Rico. I was amazed at the flavor and asked the waiter if the chef would let me see the piece of meat. I was taken into the kitchen and shown how simple it was to prepare. Skirt steak is most commonly used for fajitas. It is a flavorful steak that is excellent on the grill - just season with a great steak rub. My choice of rub is My House Salt, course butcher pepper, and light minced garlic. To cook, grill over high heat to lock in the flavor, then put in the oven for five minutes on each side, or cook to medium rare. Slice on an angle and serve hot.

Beef Tri-Tip: Tri-tip steak, also called a triangle roast,

is the 1-½ to 2-½ pounds of meat that sit at the bottom of the sirloin. Not only does it have great flavor, it also tends to be lower in fat than most other cuts of beef. The versatility of tri-tips is another factor that makes them great cuts of meat. Uncut it's a fantastic roast that should be grilled indirectly for 30 to 40 minutes. However, you can also cut the tri-tip into one-inch steaks that grill up perfectly in about eight minutes over low to medium direct heat. As always, let your steak sit for 5 to 10 minutes before you carve or serve it. This lets the juices return and evens out the heat. Because tri-tip is lean, be careful not to overcook it, particularly when preparing the full roast. Medium is as far as you should go with this cut. Use a meat thermometer to make sure you get it right where you want it. Even if you are familiar with grilling other cuts, this one can throw you off by appearing underdone when it is really "ready to serve."

Texas Tri-Tip Steak Recipe: Particularly good flavors for tri-tip are Southwestern spices. This tri-tip steak is marinated in beer, wine and spices. Choose a dark beer, such as Amber Bock, for a richer flavor and add more cilantro flakes to heat it up. Prep time should take around 15 minutes. Cook time is around 10 minutes. You will need: 1 pound of tri-tip, 2 cups of red wine, 1 can of Amber Bock or a dark beer, 1 small sliced red onion, juice from 6 to 8 limes, ¼ cup fresh chopped cilantro, ½ tsp. ground cumin. To prepare the steak, combine all the ingredients, except for the tri-tip and stir. Place steak in a large baking dish or resealable bag. Pour marinade over steaks. Refrigerate for several hours, up to 24 hours. Preheat grill. Place steaks on grill over medium heat. Grill for eight to ten minutes or until they reach desired doneness. Let steaks rest for about five minutes before you serve them. Both Tri-Tip Steaks and Hanger or Skirt Steaks are available fresh at our butcher shop.

4324 Weber Rd., St. Louis, MO. 314-631-2440

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Marinade for a Tri-Tip Roast: You will need 1-½ to 2-½ pounds of beef tri-tip; one large chopped onion; ¼ cup melted, clarified butter, ¼ cup olive oil, ¼ cup A-1 type steak sauce; 1 cup teriyaki sauce; 3 tbsp finely minced garlic; and 1 cup dry red wine Chaianti. Cooking instructions: Heat a grill on high heat. Sear the outside of the meat with fat side up. Reduce heat to medium and slow roast for 20 minutes Use a meat thermometer for desired doneness.


Remember, slow cooking is the key for the meat to absorb the most flavor.

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SOUR BEER POURS into the St. Louis Beer Scene

Itloomsinadarkundercroftnear the heart of St. Louis’ downtown, a brew so potent, so insipid, one dares not enter its lair casually. Carelessly uncorked, it could rage out of control, tainting everything in its path with sour humors. The threat of it sends children running in panic, makes young maidens faint and grown men cry ... It’s the torrid tale of sour beers in the modern brewing world. Dramatic, yes, but only slightly exaggerated. The concept of producing sour ale – beer aged to a tart flavor with wild yeasts and lactic acid bacteria – in the same ZIP code as pale ales strikes fear in brewers’ hearts. The aggressive yeasts have a nasty reputation for running amok and contaminating other batches.

wrITTen by Barbara E. Stefàno


PhoTograPhy by Geoff Cardin

“You get it wrong, and this glass of pale ale is going to be sour,” says Saint Louis Brewery co-owner Dan Kopman, raising a glass of Schlafly pale ale. It is the cellar – what Kopman calls The Playground – below The Tap Room at 2100 Locust St. that houses some of the first few forays into sour beer in St. Louis. Sour beers are often aged in oak barrels for many months or even years. Depending on the brewer’s preference, he may expose the beer wort to the air to pick up natural, wild yeasts or inoculate it with special yeasts. These yeasts consume more of the sugars in the wort than those used in the pale ales that dominate the market these days, giving the brew its signature tartness. The longer the beer ferments, the more it sours. Beers can also be soured with lactic acid bacteria, a shortcut that takes only weeks; however, this method alone may not yield the same complexity favored by beer enthusiasts. Some of the more assertive, funky sours are arguably an acquired taste, while milder versions are subtly, pleasantly tangy. Many varieties pick up dusty, musty or oaky flavors from the barrel aging, as well as hints of malt, fruit, yeast and acid, or even a barnyard quality. Often, brewers use a combination of yeast and lactic acid, blend batches, and add fruit to achieve just the right balance of tart, sweet, acidic and other flavors. Tucked back in what used to be Schlafly’s boiler room are four experimental batches of wild-yeast-fermented sour ale the brewery staff started in March 2010, and which Kopman hopes to share with his customers in a couple of years. Until then, look for a lactic acid sour beer to debut at the Schlafly HOP in the City event on Sept. 18 at The Tap Room.

It’s a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad Wort “I’ve had people tell me I was insane – and some other words I can’t say,” says Drew Huerter, a brewer at Saint Louis Brewery and former head brewer at the recently shuttered Mattingly Brewing Co. Huerter, who fermented sour beers for Mattingly, says he was sharply criticized by peers who considered the aggressive yeasts an unnecessary risk. He scoffs at what he sees as overreaction. “It [brewing sour beer] can be done without any ill consequences, but you can also end up with a pale ale that tastes like it came from a blue cheese factory. Is the paranoia justified? Yes. Is it necessary? No.” The repercussions of contamination can be huge – Kopman cites the case of Jolly Pumpkin Brewery in Michigan, which he says converted to sour beer completely after the yeasts contaminated and soured every ale in the brewery

Left: Augusta Brewing Co. assistant brewer, Kate Crombie, transfers a batch of beer to a conical fermenter. Above: Wort is filtered and cooled before yeast is introduced.



Contact Donna Bischoff at 314-340-8529 for more information



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Inspired Food Culture



– but Huerter insists the hurdles to preventing crosscontamination are not. “Don’t use the same equipment. Other than that, good brewing hygiene will protect you.” St. Louis-brewed sour beers are a relative rarity but may be catching on. From early 2009 until its sudden closure in July 2010, Mattingly had been hosting Funky Friday the 13th sour-beer events on each Friday 13. The celebration attracted “beer geeks” in droves. Wine barrels are key in the fermentation of Augusta Brewing Co.’s Sour Cherry ale, which head brewer Shawn Herrin expects will hit a the shelves at Randall’s Wine and Spirits, Friar Tuck and The Wine and Cheese Place in 22oz bottles in September or October. “You won’t have that toasty flavor that bourbon barrels will have. Instead, you’ll get more vanilla flavors. I like the idea of getting the wine characteristics from barrels that were used for Norton or Chambourcin,” Herrin says. Augusta’s Sour Cherry started three years ago with an Augusta Tripel, which was inoculated with two strains of Brettanomyces wild yeast, as well as Pediococcus and Lactobacillus bacteria. Cherries – pits and all – were added to the mix. After eight months, half the batch was placed in oak and half in stainless steel for further fermentation. Later, it was blended back together with a Tripel that was soured with lactic acid bacteria. The result is a sweet-sour brew that borrows nuttiness from the cherry pits for a flavor similar to a sour cherry pie. Herrin says the Sour Cherry was a huge hit at Square One Brewery and Distillery in April 2010. Then under the same management as Augusta Brewing, Square One served the ale on tap and it was gone in a matter of weeks. “There were people who literally came in every day on their lunch breaks to have it until it was gone.” Though the bottled version is intended as a one-off, Herrin is thinking ahead. He’s gearing up to start a full-fledged sour beer program for Augusta Brewing that he believes will fill an under-served niche in the Midwest. Those who don’t quite get sour beers may never understand the appeal, but those who love them, really love them. “I’ve have friends who are beer nerds and they’re constantly bugging me about doing more sours,” says Herrin. “It’s the buzzword now. It used to be the really hoppy beers, now it’s the sour beers.”

CHECK IT Saint Louis Brewery has four barrels of experimental sour beer fermenting in their cellar.




Visit for columnist Mike Sweeney’s sour beer recommends!


Don’t miss your chance to interact directly with these professionals and mingle with your fellow food lovers.

Cooking Demo

Wine Tasting

Hands-on Class

Wed., Sept. 15, 6:30pm, L’Ecole Culinaire, 314.587.2433

Thu., Sept. 23, 6pm, Araka Restaurant,

Thu., Sept. 30, 6pm, Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, or 314.909.1704

Reserve your spot for a taste of Cuba at this demonstration class. You will learn, step by step, how to make real daiquiris, black bean dip with fried plantain chips, crab fritters, pork loin with mojo criollo and sweet, silky orange flan.

Enjoy a complimentary wine tasting with columnist Angela Ortmann at Araka Restaurant in Clayton. The wines featured at this tasting will be accompanied by nibbles and tasting notes on each of the wines you sample.

Get chopping at this Middle Eastern cooking class and make the savory kofta found on page 38, handmade pitas, baba ghanoush, a cucumber-tomato-onion salad and umm ali, an Egyptian take on bread pudding.


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Back in the days before ovens and microwaves, our ancestors didn’t have a lot of options; pretty much everything they cooked was smoked. A wood fire was the sole cooking method, so people learned to make the most of it. As cooking moved into the kitchen and got all cleaned up, the techniques that were common knowledge for centuries were lost in a hazy, hickory-scented fog. The art of smoking began to take on the qualities of the smoke itself. Elusive. Ethereal. A thing not readily grasped. But there’s no reason for it to stay that way. We asked some local smoke masters for advice on demystifying the most common smoking techniques. Little wonder that the first bit of wisdom calls for a mental trip back in time. “You’re gonna have to accept that this is analog [cooking] in a digital world,” says Mike Emerson of Pappy’s Smokehouse. That means a lot of what goes on with smoking is governed by feel more than anything. Smoking is a trial-and-error process, even for professional chefs, but the delicious rewards are worth it. Whether it’s hot smoking, stovetop smoking or cold smoking, if you’ve got a good brine or rub, a quality piece of meat and a willingness to learn, you can produce fantastic results.

At Annie Gunn’s, Chef Lou Rook III smokes the restaurant’s signature shrimp in the decadesold smokehouse.

STOVETOP SMOKING No grill? No fire? No problem.

Stovetop smoking eliminates a lot of the time and mess of traditional smoking by reducing it to the absolute basics: a rack for the food, a small amount of wood chips to provide smoke and a tightly sealed container to cook in. With no fire to tend and no weather to get in the way, stovetop smoking is an ideal way to bring outdoor flavor to indoor cooking. WHAT YOU’LL NEED: → A ready-made commercial stovetop smoker gives you everything you need in one convenient kit. The most popular kits come from Camerons Professional Cookware ($30-$60, and include wood chips, recipes and can’t-fail instructions. → A broiler tray set inside a large roasting pan and sealed with a foil tent can work easily. Tom Coghill, owner and chef at Iron Barley, employs a 14-inch cast iron skillet (with a lid) and a cake cooling rack. → Wood chips or shavings for making smoke. Fruit woods are better for a lighter flavor.


Soak your wood chips in water for 15 to 30 minutes. Prepare whatever you’re smoking with a brine or a rub. This is the most crucial step, explains Coghill, using a piece of salmon as an example. “This [brine or rub] gives the smoke something to stick to,” he says. “Plus the heat melts the sugars [in the rub] and sears the fish.” → Lightly brush your broiler pan or rack with oil, so that →

the smoked food won’t stick. Set the base of your smoker on the stove burner and let it get hot. → Add the wood chips to the iron skillet or smoker base, and place the rack on top. Once the chips begin to smolder, add your food and cover the pan tightly with a lid or foil. → Adjust the temperature of your smoker to control cooking times. →

→ A drip pan under the meat will prevent flare-ups; a foil pie pan works great for this. → Wood chips or chunks for making smoke. Use chips for items that smoke quickly, such as fish and veggies. Use chunks for smoking bigger cuts like shoulder or brisket. → A thermometer to show the temperature inside the grill will make the process much easier.


Though you can do larger pieces of meat, the small size of most stovetop smokers means this technique is better used for fish, boneless chicken breasts, fruits and veggies. You can also briefly smoke a bigger piece of meat on the stove, then finish it in the oven.


Where there’s a grill, there’s a way. The style may be known as “hot” smoking, but the smoker’s mantra is “low and slow.” Lou Rook III of Annie Gunn’s suggests smoking ribs at a relatively cool 175°F for about three hours. Smoking on the grill doesn’t require a lot of work, just a fair amount of patience. WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

Nearly any grill can be used for smoking, whether it uses charcoal or gas.

Coghill’s make-shift stovetop 68 Tom SEPTEMBER 2010 smoker is put to work at Iron Barley.

As with any other smoking technique, it’s absolutely necessary to brine or use a rub on whatever you’re going to prepare. “The meat will not take on smoke without it,” says Rook. → Soak your wood chips or chunks in water for 15 to 30 minutes. → If you’re using charcoal, get the fire started. When the coals are starting to ash over, move them to one side of the grill. On a gas grill, only light one side of burners. → Place the drip pan directly under where the meat will rest, then add your wood chips or chunks to the coals. In a gas grill, put the wood in a foil pan over the burners. → Place the meat on the grill, close the lid and resist the temptation to check it.Though you can smoke pretty much anything on a grill, the larger scale lends itself to bigger pieces of meat. Emerson recommends pork shoulder for beginning smokers. “It’s probably the most forgiving cut … and it’s relatively inexpensive. And once the meat pulls away from the bone, you know it’s done.” →

Beautifully brined beef tenderloins ready for smoking at Annie Gunn’s.


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Hard-boiled eggs are an unexpected but delicious choice for smoking at Pappy’s Smokehouse.

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Brown Sugar Cured and Smoked Beef Tenderloin

HoMeMade MarjoraM Mayonnaise

Yield | 1¼ cups | 1 large egg

By lou rook iii, The smokehouse markeT and annie Gunn’s

1Tbsp tarragon vinegar ½ cup olive oil

After grilling or roasting to desired doneness, this smoked tenderloin can go upscale as a medallion entrée, or get piled high on sandwiches at your next tailgate. If you’ve got a thermometer-equipped grill, the smoking process will be as simple as the prep!

½ cup vegetable oil 1Tbsp chopped fresh marjoram ½ tsp salt pinch of freshly ground white pepper

| Preparation - Egg Salad | in a medium saucepan, place the eggs and cover with water by 1 inch. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook the eggs at a bare boil for exactly 10 minutes. drain and rinse under cold running water. place the eggs in an ice bath to cool. When chilled, peel the eggs and cut in half lengthwise.

Smoked Egg Salad By Mike eMerson, pappy’s smokehouse

Smoking isn’t always about a slab of meat. Egg salad may seem like one of the least likely dishes to associate with a smoker, but the subtle flavor adds new depth to a classic recipe. Add in homemade mayo as a binder and this brownbag standby becomes a lunchtime standout. Serves | 6 to 8 | egg salad

12 eggs applewood or cherrywood chips ¼ to ½ cup Homemade Marjoram Mayonnaise (recipe follows) ¼ cup minced shallots 1 stalk celery, diced 4 Tbsp capers 1 Tbsp fresh parsley, chopped salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

soak a handful of wood chips in a large bowl of cold water for at least 30 minutes. drain the chips and scatter in the bottom of a stovetop smoker (or into a hot grill). heat the chips over medium-low heat until smoky, about 10 minutes. place 16 egg halves rounded side down on the rack of your smoker; reserve 6 halves. smoke for about 45 minutes.

Serves | 6 to 8 | 3½ tsp

kosher salt

1 Tbsp

freshly ground black pepper

1 Tbsp

granulated garlic

1/3 cup

light brown sugar

2 lbs

beef tenderloin, cleaned and trimmed wood chips, soaked in water for 30 minutes

dice all eggs (smoked and not-smoked) and allow to chill. in a medium bowl, add ¼ cup mayonnaise to the diced eggs, along with the shallots, celery, capers and parsley. additional mayonnaise may be added 1 Tbsp at a time to reach desired consistency. adjust the seasoning to taste. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

| Preparation - Mayonnaise | in a food processor, blend the egg and vinegar for 10 seconds. With the processor running, slowly pour the oil through the feed tube and process until emulsified. (should the mixture become too thick, with the machine running, add water 2 tsp at a time.) add the marjoram, salt and pepper and pulse to blend. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before using.

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(The mayonnaise will keep tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.)

| Preparation | Mix first four ingredients together in a bowl, then rub all over the meat. Place on a roasting rack in the refrigerator and allow to cure overnight. Prepare the coals in your grill, then pull the coals to one side. Place a pan on the side with no coals; add your wood chips to the coals. Place the tenderloin on the grill above the pan and close grill lid. Smoke at 175°F until an internal temperature of 110°F is achieved. At this point the meat is smoked and ready to be oiled for finishing on the grill or roasting.

Hot Smoked Salmon with Barley Salad and Tomato-Cucumber Relish

1/3 cup 2/3 cup 1 tsp 2 tsp 1 cup

white wine vinegar olive oil fresh chopped tarragon sugar lemon juice salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

hoT smoked salmon

1/3 cup 1/3 cup 1/3 cup 1 Tbsp 2 tsp 4 1 oz 1

By Tom Coghill, Iron BArLey

brown sugar sugar kosher salt freshly ground black pepper dry dill 6- to 7-oz fresh salmon fillets applewood chips freshly chopped parsley lemon, cut into wedges

The bright combination of flavors in the relish helps bring out the rich smokiness of the salmon – an amazing depth of flavor considering it cooks in just five minutes. “Just make sure you have a good exhaust fan,” says Coghill, “or you’ll be meeting the boys at your local fire department.”

| Preparation - Barley Salad | Cut zucchini and yellow

squash in half lengthwise. Cut eggplant into ½-inch thick slices. Cut red onion into 3- to 4½-inch thick slices. Toss vegetables in ¾ cup vinaigrette, then grill 3 to 5 minutes per side. Set aside to let cool.

When the skillet is very hot, drop 8 applewood chips in the bottom of the skillet, carefully place the rack into the skillet, then cover tightly with a lid. Let smoke 4 to 5 minutes, then check for doneness; the salmon should be firm to the touch.

Serves | 4 |

Bring 1 quart of water to a boil, add barley; cover and simmer for 35 minutes. Strain barley and spread onto a cookie sheet, then refrigerate to cool. Dice the grilled vegetables; mix with the cooled barley and remaining ¼ cup of vinaigrette. refrigerate until ready to serve.

| To Serve | Place a generous spoonful of barley salad in the center of each plate. Place hot smoked salmon on top of barley salad. Mix relish well and spoon on top of salmon. Garnish with parsley and lemon wedge.

barley salad




yellow squash




large red onion, peeled

1 cup

apple cider vinaigrette salad dressing

1 cup


| Preparation - Hot Smoked Salmon | Heat an iron skillet on

high for 5 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare a “dry brine” by mixing sugar, brown sugar, salt, pepper and dill. Spray a round cake rack with non-stick cooking spray and place the fillets on the rack; do not let them touch each other. Sprinkle the dry brine generously on the salmon fillets.

TomaTo-CuCumber relish


cucumber, peeled


large tomato, seeded


| Preparation - Tomato-Cucumber Relish | Dice cucumber, tomato and red onion, and mix with remaining ingredients. refrigerate until ready to serve.

medium red onion

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Take a tour of the decades-old smokehouse behind Annie Gunn’s with chef Lou Rook III.


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puLL up a chair

aLODia cOuNTEr + Bar STOOL written by brandi Wills

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Three local designers pick a perfect pairing for the stool: Sicilia 2-Top

“i wanted to choose something that would have functionality. Janus et Cie makes the Sicilia 2-top table with a double indoor/ outdoor stainless top. it’s the perfect place for guests to put items such as car keys, small handbags or phones on the lower round area, out of the way of dining but close by for easy access. Stainless also complements any color chair selected.”

Scott Tjaden, Tjaden Interiors $2,511; tjaden interiors, 4733 McPherson Ave., Central west end,



black and cleaR luciTe baR ReveRSe Table

“the reverse table from Andrew world is the perfect table in design, scale and function to complement the Alodia stool. it has two top options, a knife edge or a 2-inch profile edge, and a solid base that creates a grounding effect in comparison to the lightweight stool without overpowering it. the reverse color palette – black, white, red cayenne, chocolate and cement grey – works well with the Alodia stool, providing a well-stated, modernly designed table setting.”

“i selected this chic and sleek ’70s bar from Galerie Sommerlath because, visually, it doesn’t distract from the dramatic lines of the stool. i love Lucite, be it in ’40s- or ’70s-era design, because its transparency allows it to blend into any room without taking up visual space.”

David Deatherage, Century Design Ltd.

David Blakely, Niche Home Furnishings

$2,800; Century Design Ltd.,

$1,169; Niche Home Furnishings, 300 N. Broadway, Downtown,

PhotoGrAPhy Provided by 1StdibS



INFINITI West County


15736 Manchester at Clarkson Rd. • (636) 391-9400 • 800-367-2289 • Based On 2009 Sales Summery Infiniti Motor Division, Nissan North America



Call 1-800-345-5273 for a Dillard’s location near you.

September 2010 FEAST Magazine  
September 2010 FEAST Magazine  

FEAST Magazine delves deep into St. Louis’ culinary scene for inspired ideas in cooking, the latest on restaurants, great gadgets, kitchen d...