November 2011 FEAST Magazine

the merry muddler

leave it to the pros

subtle sweetness

old fashioneds

turkey day dining

tupelo honey

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

THE ART OF THANKSGIVING

feastSTL.com | NOVEMBER 2011 | FREE

Fresh Is Best!

Order Your Fresh Turkey Today For Thanksgiving!

We offer the best in fresh, hormone-free turkeys for your Thanksgiving feast.

They have a delicious flavor and will save you time – no need to thaw!

Choose from our full selection of fresh turkeys and other fresh poultry.

Stop by or call your neighborhood store to order your fresh turkey and schedule a convenient pick-up time. Order early, quantities are limited.

Š2011 Schnucks

Š2011 Charter Communications. Service not available in all areas. Other restrictions may apply.

Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2011

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APPETIZERS MAIN DISHES

36 6

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2011

FLEXIBLE SIDE DISHES DESSERTS

| 38 | | 48 | | 54 | | 62 |

THE ART OF TH

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

NOVEMBER 2011 FROM THE STAFF

| 10 |

FEASTSTL.COM

What’s online this month.

| 12 |

FROM THE PUBLISHER

Have a harmonious Thanksgiving.

| 14 |

FEAST FAVES

Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis.

COLUMNS

| 24 |

MY STUFF

A little sweet talk with Russell Ping of Russell’s Café and Bakery.

| 27 |

GADGET A-GO-GO

We put five kitchen scales to the test.

| 28 |

ON THE SHELF

New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 30 |

MYSTERY SHOPPER

Buy it and try it: tupelo honey.

| 32 |

TECH SCHOOL

Use your leftovers to make a rich turkey and mushroom risotto.

| 34 |

68

EASY EATS

This Mediterranean turkey breast has all the right stuff.

| 74 |

PULL UP A CHAIR

Raise the bar with the Rig Barstool.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY OF HASSELBACK POTATOES (PG 54)

BY Jennifer Silverberg

HANKSGIVING

Inspired Food Culture

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Magazine Volume 2

| Issue 11 | November 2011

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor Brandi Wills Online Editor Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Triefenbach Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editor Jill Pfeiffer Proofreader Sarah Baraba Videographer Hannah Radcliff Contributing Writers Christy Augustin, Erin Callier, Russ Carr, Pat Eby Chad Michael George, Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson Angela Komis, Angela Ortmann, Lucy Schnuck, Matt Seiter Michael Sweeney, Andrew Mark Veety, Cassandra Vires Contributing Photographers Jonathan Gayman, Gregg Goldman, Michael Jacob, Tuan Lee Laura Ann Miller, Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg Corey Woodruff

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Susan Eckert, 314.340.8587 ads@feastSTL.com Editorial Comments editor@feastSTL.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2011 by Feast Magazine™.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC A Lee Enterprises Company 8

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2011

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celebrating 10 years

Come experience why St. Louis is buzzing about the newly reinvented Truffles.

Zoom on over for a bold, fresh, modern Italian experience with pastas for $10, housemade salumi, amazing wines and much more.

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Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2011

9

ONLINE CONTENT

www.feastSTL.com

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

The Feed

Online Exclusives

This Month’s Feast

Watch & Listen

Feast Events

Recipes

NEW COLUMN: Out to Lunch

MY STUFF: Did you enjoy reading our Q&A with Russell Ping of Russell’s Café and Bakery (p. 24)? Visit feastSTL. com for the full interview and more insight into this young entrepreneur’s culinary vision. PHOTOGRAPHY BY GREGG GOLDMAN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAURA ANN MILLER

OUT TO LUNCH This month we debut Out to Lunch, columnist Andrew Mark Veety’s guide to

great weekday lunch fare, from awesome Chinese take-out to Milagro Modern Mexican’s tacos (above).

Behind-The-Scenes Video

TECH SCHOOL: Chef Cassy Vires shows you how to achieve restaurant-worthy results in your own home kitchen in our Tech School video series.

CONNECT WITH US Connect with us at facebook.com/feastSTL to stay on top of happenings at FEAST Central and connect with fellow foodies.

Scan this tag to LIKE us right now!

BEHIND THE SCENES

Get behind the bar and into the kitchen in this exclusive video featuring T.J. Vytlacil and Chris Bork of the new downtown social club Blood & Sand.

Follow us at twitter.com/feastmag for up-to-the-minute restaurant news, special deals, FEAST events and more.

Scan this tag to FOLLOW us right now!

Get the free app at gettag.mobi

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Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2011

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

PS

feaST eVeNTS

Just Like Mom Used to Make Wed., Nov. 2, 6pm; Truffles $150, todayattruffles.com or 314.567.9100

D

uring the month of November, all else fades as I anticipate Thanksgiving’s bronzed turkey, buttery mashed potatoes and

sweetly spiced pumpkin pie. I’ve said it before; it’s my favorite holiday.

Dedicated to celebrating food and feasting, Thanksgiving is a day when we gather with those we love and enjoy the conviviality of sharing a communal banquet … except when family members can’t agree on what to cook or how to cook it.

There are lots of folks that won’t or can’t eat various food items, which can be a problem when you’re cooking one big meal for a large gathering. Cognizant of this, we decided to work a little flexibility into our annual Turkey Day issue. We give you makeahead appetizers to keep day-of prep to a minimum (p. 38). We take the turkey from the oven to the grill, freeing up space for other must-be-baked items (p. 48). And, best of all, contributor Erik Jacobs took up the challenge of creating side dishes that could easily adapt to suit vegans, vegetarians and omnivores alike (p. 54).

The last thing anyone wants is quibbling on Thanksgiving, especially about the food. On this uniquely American holiday, as you give thanks for your blessings, I hope one of them is harmony at the dining table.

Chef John Griffiths brings together St. Louis’ leading chefs for a six-course dinner to benefit the ALS Association and Hope Happens.

Each chef will create dishes inspired by his childhood.

Feast Your Eyes Sat., Nov. 5, 12:30pm; Contemporary Art Museum

This free program invites you into the museum for a tasting prepared in response to the exhibitions, the artist, or specific artwork and paired with local wine and cocktails.

L’Ecole Academy Poultry Fabrication Class Mon., Nov. 14 and Tue., Nov. 15, 5:30 to 9:30pm; L’Ecole Academy $160, lecoleacademy.com or 314.264.1999

Just in time for Thanksgiving, learn exactly how to butcher all manner of poultry and celebrate the grand opening of the Academy’s new location in Olivette!

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Nov. 16, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $45, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Get hands-on and make the stuffed turkey breast featured on page 34.

Wine Tasting Thu., Nov. 17, 6 to 7pm; Vino Nadōz Complimentary, rsvp@stlwinegirl.com

Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a food-andwine tasting at Vino Nadōz.

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Tue., Nov. 29, 6 to 7pm; Pomme Restaurant RSVP to editor@feastSTL.com

Join us to discuss The Table Comes First: Family, France and the Meaning of Food by Adam Gopnik and enjoy complimentary hors d’oeuvres and drink specials. Pick up your copy of the book at Left Bank Books or at left-bank. com and get 20 percent off.

10th Annual St. Louis Food & Wine Experience Sat., Jan. 28 and Sun., Jan. 29, noon to 5pm; The Chase Park Plaza Hotel repstl.org or 314.968.4925

Until next time,

Celebrate the artistry of fine food and wine at the largest iInternational wine and food show in the Midwest.

Oceania Luxury Culinary Cruise May 6 to 17, 2012, from $3,799 per person altairtravelinc.com or 314.968.9600

Join publisher Catherine Neville on a 10-day luxury cruise from Istanbul to Venice with ports of call ranging from Ephesus to Athens.

feedback?

catherine@feastSTL.com 12

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NOVEMBER 2011

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Inspired Food Culture

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FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

Blood & Sand

blood & Sand was conceived as a modern, urban alternative to social clubs. Its staff provides customized service based on members’ individual food and drink preferences. The cocktail program, designed by T.J. Vytlacil, highlights a number of riffs on the club’s namesake drink as well as original creations that range from Dancing Shoes (gin, Cocchi Americano, aged vermouth, lemon, simple syrup, Champagne and bitters) to Grounds For Divorce (black Maple Hill Small batch bourbon, amaro, sweet vermouth, Campari, bitters and a maraschino cherry). Although cocktails may be the club’s main focus, chef Chris bork’s culinary efforts demand attention.

Using local, seasonal ingredients, bork crafts sophisticated comfort food. Scallop ceviche, served with radish, is elegantly restrained. Fried chicken has subtle heat from ginger and is plated with a sweet potato biscuit and gizzard gravy.

Housemade agnolotti changes with the season.

Personalized service, quality cocktails and great food make blood & Sand membership a must for those who want something more from their culinary experience. – C.N. 1500 St. Charles St., Downtown bloodandsandstl.com

14

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2011

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman

cocktails & comfort food

314.241.7263 DOWNTOWN

EXCLUSIVE VIDEO! Get behind the bar and in the kitchen with T.J. Vytlacil and Chris

Bork of Blood & Sand. Scan the tag with your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.

FEAST FAVES / s e C r e t I n g r e d I e n t FEAST FAVES | what we’re drInkIng

Beaujolais: Cru and nouveau wrITTeN By Jennifer Johnson

Most people think of Beaujolais only at Thanksgiving, when its Nouveau style is released two months post harvest and produced in a refreshing and relatively simple, fruity style. Consider opening a Cru Beaujolais as well at your Thanksgiving celebration. It can be quite compelling, and the comparison between the Beaujolais will make for interesting conversation. Also made from Gamay grapes grown in Burgundy’s Beaujolais region, a Cru Beaujolais is more complex and concentrated, often produced using slower-paced, traditional Burgundian methods, such as French-oak aging. Gamay’s aromatic berry fruit and floral profile is low in tannins and high in acid, so pair Beaujolais with moderately seasoned fowl, ham, charcuterie, fish and stews.

$(+( !3#) ",&0 /,.-12

Feel the electricity of the holidays as you waddle through half a million wild lights at the Saint Louis Zoo. Experience chilly Penguin & Puffin Coast, holiday crafts, choirs, storytelling— even ride the Conservation Carousel and visit the Monsanto Insectarium.

Weekends: Nov. 25 – Dec. 11 5:30 – 8:30 p.m.

Nightly: Dec. 16 –23 and Dec. 26 –30 5:30 – 8:30 p.m.

Admission $5 ($4 for Zoo Friends) Kids under two are free.

For more information call (314) 768-5450 or visit stlzoo.org.

2009 DomaiNe Passot Les ramPaux, FLeurie vieiLLes vigNes

Beaujolais, Burgundy, France Fleurie, one of 10 crus (designations) in the northern region that produces superior Beaujolais, is marked by flowers.

This one shows hints of violets under grape and plum fruit, with wet stone on the nose. Mediumbodied and juicy, a forest-floor earthiness blankets an elegant finish. Pair with coq au vin, duck confit and wisconsin Cheddar cheeseburgers.

ARTISAN CHOCOLATES AND ARTISA ARTIS DC CONFECTIONS N CTION NF NFEC CT CTIO C TIO ONS MADE ADE IN ST� LOUIS | BY HAND | FROM ALL�NATURAL RA R RAL AL L INGREDIENTS I G IN ING NTS S

$22.99; Lukas Liquor, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville, lukasliquorstl.com

2011 Labouré-roi beaujoLais Nouveau

Beaujolais, Burgundy, France Beaujolais Nouveau is released the third Thursday in November. expect berries like strawberry and currant, a light-bodied mouth feel, perhaps lily-ofthe-valley floral notes, and a bit of smoke or tea-leaf earthiness. enjoy this wine with a mushroom omelet, bacon-wrapped shrimp with rosemary or blacktruffle mac-n-cheese. $8.99; The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com

G Kakao aka k Chocolate to someone important to o you yo ou Give — and treat yourself, too — any time of the year KAKAO ON JEFFERSON | 2301 S. Jefferson, St. Louis | 314.771.2310

A St. Louis-based wine and food enthusiast, Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine.

KAKAO MAPLEWOOD | 7272 Manchester, Maplewood | 314.645.4446 www.kakaochocolate.com

Inspired Food Culture

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FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

finding fiLiPinO fARE Authentic Filipino fare is tough to find in St. Louis, but if you follow Guerrilla Street Food’s Twitter feed, you’ll know exactly where to hunt down expertly made, delicious and inexpensive dishes with the exotic flavor of the Philippines. We may be headed into winter, but Guerrilla Street Food is out there, dishing up hearty eats like the Pac-Man: spicy pork asado, chile-braised cabbage, lemon and smoked-paprika aÏoli, black sesame seeds, and scallions piled onto Lebanese flatbread.

Order the kare-kare for a taste of braised oxtail, short rib and baby bok choy in a spicy peanut sauce served on jasmine rice. A little shrimp paste is offered if you wish to add a bit of funk. Lighter dishes like the lumpia and tinapa (smoked local trout, chrysanthemum- and honey-infused vinegar, and local radishes on bibb lettuce) are available as well. Pair any of the truck’s food with its hot, ginger-spiced apple cider for a filling midday meal worth the social media chase. – C.N.

Guerrilla Street Food twitter.com/ guerrillastreet EVERYWHERE

PHOTOGRAPHy by Corey Woodruff

facebook.com/guerrillastreetfood twitter.com/guerrillastreet

FEAST FAVES

| MeeT & greeT

Sine Berhanu

OWneR And PReSidenT OF Berhanu Enterprises, LLC

in 2006, Sine berhanu whipped black beluga lentils and added lime, sea salt and spices to make a dip her church could sell at the St. Louis international Festival. The zingy dip she named Ah!Zeefa™ wowed fairgoers.

WRiTTen by Pat Eby

for soups and stews in 1987. She says limited resources and a lack of business savvy caused her to close the business after a few years.

Soon, Local Harvest and Whole Foods Market carried the product. For berhanu, the success of Ah!Zeefa re-ignited a long-delayed dream.

Today, berhanu produces and markets healthy, organic foods with an ethiopian twist. Check her website for information on lentils, teas, whole grains, seasonings and coffees.

The enthusiastic berhanu first marketed prepackaged lentil mixes

berhanuorganic.com PHOTOGRAPHy by

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NOVEMBER 2011

J. Pollack Photography

FEAST FAVES / s e C r e t I n g r e d I e n t FEAST FAVES | FOOd stUFF

TOFFEE We just love toffee. Whether grabbing a few pieces to fuel holiday shopping or buying in bulk to use in seasonal treats, this time of year it’s always on our shopping lists. – B.W.

FLAVOR PROFILE: SmOOth & buttERy

FLAVOR PROFILE: RIch & nutty

FLAVOR PROFILE: SwEEt & FLORAL

| 1 | Zettie’s Confections almond butter crunch, $6.99; The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com | 2 | English toffee, $34.99/lb, sold in bulk; Bissinger’s Handcrafted Chocolatier, multiple locations, bissingers. com | 3 | Wicked Good Toffee, $4; Kakao Chocolate, multiple locations, kakaochocolate.com PHOTOGRAPHy By Laura Ann Miller Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2011

17

FEAST FAVES / S ecreT ingredienT FEAST FAVES | THe diSH

PHOTOGRAPHY bY

Jonathan Gayman

Frita SliderS COnTRIbuTOR’S PICk

Jonathan gayman

When I’m out for a night on the town, nothing beats Sanctuaria’s diverse and inventive cocktail list and late-night eats. Its tapas menu features many wonderful dishes, but my favorite is the Frita Sliders. These tasty little burgers are made with Cuban pork-andbeef chorizo, topped with Monterey Jack and crispy Yukon gold potatoes on a Cuban sweet roll, and garnished with citrus herb sauce. The pork-and-beef chorizo creates a deep, rich and spicy flavor that just isn’t there in a regular slider. And the string potatoes are divine. I also order a side of tostones (plantain chips) to go with the sliders and one of Sanctuaria’s signature Sanctuaria cocktails. Perfection.

314.535.9700 The Grove See more of Jonathan’s work in The Art of Thanksgiving (pg. 62), our guide to a delectable and memorable Thanksgiving meal.

4198 Manchester Road The Grove sanctuariastl.com

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NOVEMBER 2011

FEAST FAVES

| whAT we’re drInkIng

The Old FashiOned STORy AnD RECIPE by Matt Seiter

Once upon a time, there were different classes of drinks, like cocktails, daisies, fixes, slings and fizzes. The criterion for a cocktail was a base spirit, sugar, water and bitters. In other words, the recipe for an Old Fashioned. First mixed more than 200 years ago, the Old Fashioned cocktail is the original cocktail.

When it comes to bitters, I prefer The bitter Truth Jerry Thomas Decanter bitters. Angostura bitters are good too, but a little too much cinnamon pulls through for me. Simple syrup can be used to sweeten the drink, but I prefer to muddle the sugar cube with water. The Old Fashioned is generally associated with whiskey, but it can be made with any spirit.

For traditionalists, I recommend Rowan’s Creek, Willet or buffalo Trace bourbons; Sazerac 6-year, Rittenhouse or Old Overholt ryes; bernheim Original Kentucky Straight Wheat Whiskey; or any aged Koval whiskeys.

I also recommend mixing things up. Try gin (Ransom’s barrel-aged Old Tom Gin is great), rum (stick to the drier varieties like Flor de Caña Extra Dry or DonQ Silver) or cognac (Pierre Ferrand Cognac, Camus Cognac or Hennessy are good choices).

Old-fashioned Old Fashioned Old Fashioneds are great year-round. But each season calls for its own signature spin. In spring, use gin and garnish with a lemon twist. During the summer, make the cocktail with rum and add a spanked mint or lemon verbena leaf. For fall, use cognac or whiskey and garnish with a flamed orange peel. The recipe below is perfect for the holiday season.

Serves | 1 |

Laura Ann Miller

1 2 dashes ½ oz 2¼ oz 3

sugar cube The Bitter Truth Jerry Thomas Decanter Bitters water Buffalo Trace bourbon (or your spirit of choice) ice cubes

| Preparation | Add sugar cube, bitters and water to a rocks glass.

Muddle until cube is dissolved. Add bourbon and two cubes of ice. Stir for 40 seconds. Add one more ice cube and smile.

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the National Board for the USBG’s MA program and is a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

BArTender knOwLedge Bitters & Tinctures

or Everclear or high-proof rums, whiskeys or gins. These spirits are infused with a slew of herbs, flowers, barks, spices and seasonings. They are then blended, cut with filtered water and bottled.

Since bitters and tinctures are added in dashes and drops, it’s natural to question why they’re part of cocktail recipes.

Here’s the difference between bitters and tinctures: bitters contain bittering agents, such as wormwood, gentian, cassia, angelica root, oris root and quinine. Tinctures don’t.

First, some background. bitters and tinctures were used for medicinal purposes. Think 19th century Pepto-bismol. bartenders and apothecaries worked hand-in-hand back in the day. Apothecaries created their elixirs, and bartenders “helped the medicine go down.” Most bitters and tinctures are booze-based, using a neutral grain spirit like vodka

And yes, those dashes and drops bring a lot to cocktails. They add that “missing something” to a bland drink. During the past five years, bitters have been making a comeback along with cocktails. There are many, many brands to choose from, and a lot of bartenders make their own (myself included) to cater to their personal tastes. – M.S.

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NOVEMBER 2011

314-993-5570 Quality Since 1871

Tues.-Fri. 10:00-8:00 Sun. 12:00-5:00

www.forshaws.com

| shop-o-matIC SHOP AND PRODUCT PHOTOGRAPHY bY Laura Ann Miller

FEAST FAVES

Cornucopia 314.822.2440 KIRKWOOD

CALLING ALL COOKS The moment you walk into Cornucopia, you’re smacked in the face by the aroma of freshly ground, flavored coffee. It’s really nice.

we try to have a little something for everyone.”

With the holidays approaching, check out the wall of cookie cutters, the array of serving pieces and, for the collector on your gift list, the impressive and extensive selection of Fiesta dinnerware and other items. And while you’re at Cornucopia, be sure to ask manager Scot Smith – who’s known around the shop for his killer omelet – for tips on making a memorable breakfast. Your holiday houseguests will thank you! – B.W.

And so is the selection of cookware, cutlery, gadgets, linens, tableware and much, much more (including, of course, a wide variety of coffees). A cook’s paradise, you’re sure to find what you’re looking for here – and with a range of options. “When we stock an item, we try to hit all price points,” says owner Walter Smith.

“We have the traditional basics as well as the contemporary versions that employ moreadvanced technology. Our shoppers range from beginning cooks to culinary students, so

107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood kitchencopia.com

Walter smIth’s thanksgIvIng must haves: |2|

| 1 | Emile Henry Classic 9-inch pie dish, $39.95, or Fiesta 10-inch pie baker, $16.95. “The Emile Henry plates make beautiful pies, and you can safely take them from freezer to oven. They’re indestructible. The Fiesta plates are a bit more affordable and come in 13 colors.” | 2 | Totally bamboo (12½x20-inch) cutting board, $29.95, and Wusthof Classic Super Slicer, $119.95. “This large cutting board has grooves for catching juices, and the bamboo is antibacterial and doesn’t absorb odors. The Super Slicer is the best knife; the rounded, serrated edges don’t tear meat like electric slicers do.” | 3 | 7½-quart Le Crueset Dutch oven, $239.95. “It’s great for roasting and slow cooking, and it’s perfect for holiday meals because you can also serve from it. It has great visual appeal.” | 4 | Cuisipro 4-cup fat separator, $14.95, and Fiesta sauceboat, $19.95. “This gravy separator is a necessity for grease-free gravy. And, of course, the Fiesta sauceboat looks beautiful on a holiday table.”

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Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2011

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Kenricks...

From our kitchen, to your table.

F

or over 40 years, Thanksgiving has been one of my favorite holidays; when close friends and family gather at my house with the aroma of a baking turkey wafting in the air. Here is my recipe for the perfect cooked turkey. First, figure out how many people you will be having at your Thanksgiving Feast. You want to figure 1 lb. per person due to the bone weight. Naturally thawing your turkey in your refrigerator is the safest way.

Thawing times are as follows: 10-12 lbs. 2 to 3 days 13-16 lbs. 3 to 4 days 17-20 lbs. 4 to 5 days 21-24 lbs. 5 to 6 days

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for Friends, Family,

Take the wings of your turkey and tuck them under the backside of your turkey breast side up in a 2 to 2 1/2 inch deep pan. Set the oven to 325° F, place the turkey in the roasting pan with 1/2 cup water in the bottom of the pan.

Here is the average cooking time for a turkey given these weights:

8 to 12 lbs. - 3 to 3 ½ hours 12 to 14 lbs. - 3 ¾ to 4 ¼ hours 14 to 18 lbs. - 3 ¾ to 4 ½ hours 18 to 20 lbs. - 4 ¼ to 4 ½ hours 20 to 24 lbs. - 4 ½ to 5 hours

You will want to cook the thigh of the turkey to 180° F and the turkey breast 170°F. Let turkey rest for 20 minutes before carving. Use the drippings left in the pan in your stuffing for a more flavorful dish.

and

TURKEY!

Order Your Fresh Turkey Early from Kenrick's 22

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NOVEMBER 2011

FEAST FAVES

| what we’re buyIng

SophiSticated Serving pieceS

Dress up your holiday dinners with a few eye-catching serving accessories.

– B.W.

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| 1 | MacKenzie-Childs Parchment Check dinnerware, pieces starting at $98; Neiman Marcus, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, neimanmarcus.com | 2 | Vietra Aladdin pie servers, $41 each; Ware, 137 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, 314.727.2500 | 3 | Teresa Cole pouring bottles, $49.99 each; Extra Virgin An Olive Ovation, 143 Ritz Carlton Drive, Clayton, extravirginoo.com | 4 | Julia Knight Classic Pagoda bowl, $75; Saks Fifth Avenue, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, saksfifthavenue.com | 5 | Hobnail pitcher, $78; Anthropologie, St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, anthropologie.com | 6 | Nash high yellow bowl, $29.95, and oval yellow bowl, $6.95; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com | 7 | Intrigue bowl, $29.95; Crate & Barrel Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2011

23

MY STUFF

RUSSeLL Ping

OWNER OF RussEll’s CaFé aNd BakERy

WRITTEn BY Catherine Neville

Do you remember the first thing you ever baked? When I was 8 I perfected my chocolate chip cookies (the same recipe that we still use at the café) and sold them at our neighborhood pool. My big birthday present at 10 was my first Kitchen Aid mixer and the story began. What is your favorite thing to make? I love making biscuits, not so much for the excitement of making them, but knowing I get to eat them when they come out of the oven. My grandma was known for her biscuits. She never taught me her technique, but I must have inherited the biscuit-making gene. How do you decide what makes the cut and ends up in your bakery case? I have dubbed my style of baking “homespun gourmet.” I think that the appeal of our product is the simplicity of what we are doing. I don’t pay much attention to the trends of the sweet world or who made what on Cupcake Wars last night … sorry, I do not want bacon on my cupcakes. Favorite midnight snack? This is a guilty pleasure that will probably get me shunned from the rest of the culinary world, but my go-to snack is reduced fat Cheez-Its. The reduced fat [crackers are] crunchier.

Must-have kitchen gadget? I am not too much of a gadget guy. For the first year that the café was open I used a wine bottle as my rolling pin. I would say that I could survive in most kitchens with a good chef’s knife and a pair of tongs. My most recent kitchen splurge at the café was a new 20-quart mixer. We’d been fighting with a beast of a Hobart that stubbornly liked to shift itself to high speed ... not too much fun when you are mixing hot sugar for marshmallows. The new one mixes like a Cadillac. What’s one thing you’d change if you could do it all over again?

I started Russell’s Café and Bakery with the support and help of my parents when I was 22. When you start something so big at such a young age every day is a learning process. It would be easy to come up with a laundry list of small things that I would change if I could go back, but I can’t so I prefer to look forward.

Fortunately for me, I am still young enough to use what I have learned to help myself grow and become more successful in the future.

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NOVEMBER 2011

Russell’s Café and Bakery 958 Brookwood Center, Fenton 636.343.8900 russellscafe.com Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Russell Ping.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Gregg Goldman

Peruse the bakery case at Russell’s Café and Bakery and you’ll quickly understand why this Fenton bakery has such a loyal clientele.

Everything is simple, beautiful and classic.

“There is an art form to keeping things simple and letting great ingredients speak for themselves,” says owner Russell Ping, who opened the café at the tender age of 22. “A perfect example [is our] Port Wine Chocolate Cake: chocolate cake, port wine and dark chocolate ganache. What else do you need?”

October 2, 2011–January 22, 2012 Advance tickets are highly recommended at metrotix.com.

Monet’s Water Lilies is organized by the Saint Louis Art Museum, The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, and The Cleveland Museum of Art. This exhibition is supported by an indemnity from the Federal Council on the Arts and the Humanities. Additional support has been provided by Emerson. Financial assistance has been provided by the Missouri Arts Council, a state agency.

Claude Monet, French, 1840 –1926; Water Lilies (detail), c.1915 –26; oil on canvas; 78 3/4 inches x 13 feet 11 3/4 inches; Saint Louis Art Museum, The Steinberg Charitable Fund 134:1956

One Fine Arts Drive, Forest Park St. Louis, MO 63110 314.721.0072 www.slam.org Tuesday – Sunday, 10 am –5 pm; Friday, 10 am – 9 pm; Closed Monday

Inspired Food Culture

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feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2011

gadget a-go-go

Put to the teSt

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KITCHEN

SCALES

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WRITTeN bY pat eby

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PHOTOgRAPHY bY Laura ann Miller

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Progressive Kitchen Scale

escali Primo digital Scale

Salter glass Slimline Kitchen Scale

escali Weigh It! digital Scale

PROS

PROS

PROS

PROS

This no-frills, inexpensive mechanical scale weighs standard and metric up to 5 pounds or 2.2 kilograms. The lip on its removable bowl fits snugly over the platform, so the bowl stays stable during a pour. Zero out containers or ingredients by turning a center ring.

No batteries needed.

This user-friendly digital scale reads in half-ounce and 1-gram increments to please super-picky cooks. Available in three colors. The platform looks small but holds an 8-inch, straightsided mixing bowl with no wobble. The tare function works with the push of a button, and the automatic shutoff keeps batteries working longer.

A super-sleek design and bright-blue, easy-to-read numbers give accurate weights from a single ounce through 11 pounds. Toggles to grams and measures liquids to 5 liters. Tares easily. Records weights as ingredients pour, with enough speed to gauge a good stop. Automatically shuts off after one minute when nothing is on the platform but stays on for three minutes after a stable weight reading.

A tiny digital scale for the real estate challenged, this mighty mite measures up to 11 pounds or 5,000 grams. It beeps when it comes on, tares quickly and features an automatic shutoff.

The scale beeps when weight is stable and holds the reading for five seconds just in case an object on the scale platform is blocking the display. A counting feature allows the scale to count large quantities of the same item, based on weight; just sayin.’

CONS

The turning ring to zero out containers or ingredients balked and jerked with each change. The small numbers weren’t easy to read and calculating the calibrations took a little brainpower.

Hand wash only on the bowl. Not good for weighing under 2 ounces.

Weights less than 1 ounce didn’t register. The user’s manual warned values may be compromised by electromagnetic disturbances, such as a radio, which didn’t happen during the tests.

$9.29; Dierbergs, select locations, dierbergs.com

$29.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, kitchencopia.com

CONS

CONS

Doesn’t register less than an ounce. The Aquatronics feature for measuring liquids works only for water-based ingredients, not oil-based ingredients. Pity, but slim as it is, you can’t store the scale on its side nor stockpile anything on the platform.

The cramped readout wasn’t easy to decipher, even when weighing small portions. The rather loud beeps can be disconcerting. $24.99; Terra, 11769 Manchester Road, Des Peres, terrastl.com

Measurement units: Pick a dual-measurement readout for greater flexibility: one for pounds and ounces, another for grams

This kitchen scale, with its clear-glass platform and sculptural white base, looks Space Age and somewhat scientific. big numbers and a high contrast make the display easy to read, as does the glass platform edge. Its medium size readily accommodates plates or bowls and takes up just a bit of counter space. good value for a low price.

Although the unit shuts off after one minute of non-use and three minutes after a stable weight, it didn’t turn off manually. The battery is lithium, which isn’t easy to replace. This may be picky, but the biggest Loser icon plastered above the display looks tacky. $19.99; Bed Bath and Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com

Che

Ck pag out e

W hat to l oo K For :

Capacity: When weighing ingredients accurately so recipes can be predictably repeated – especially for baking or preserving – opt for a scale with a maximum capacity of 6 to 11 pounds. If individual portion control is what you need, a 1-pound capacity will suffice.

PROS

CONS

CONS

$40; Sur La Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com

type: Mechanical-spring construction or digital technology?

Mechanical-spring scales are generally bulkier but are less expensive and don’t require power. For measuring small amounts, under 2 or 3 ounces, mechanical scales aren’t the best choice.

taylor Biggest loser glass digital Kitchen Scale

and kilograms. Some higher-end scales also measure fluid ounces in milliliters and liters. tare/offset option: On digital scales, the tare function allows you to read the exact weight of ingredients, minus the container.

You can also add ingredients without emptying a bowl by using the tare button. Make sure mechanical scales feature a manual adjustment to zero out container weight. display: Find an easy-to-read display for your eyesight and kitchen conditions. If the scale doesn’t have an automatic shutoff feature, look for an indicator light to preserve battery life.

Tryoneofthesescales 36! onforsizewhencooking ourartfultakeonatraditional Thanksgivingmenu.

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ON the shelf

BEER wrITTen By Michael Sweeney

SPIRITS

The creator of STLHops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the Craft Beer Manager at Lohr Distributing.

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

the Civil life Brewing Co.’s American Brown

Brandon’s Gin

STYLE: American Brown Ale (4.8% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Civil Life Brewing Co., 3714 Holt Ave., Tower Grove South, thecivillifebrewingcompany.com; $5 (16-oz draught), $2.50 (8-oz pours) PAIRINgS: Companion Bavarian pretzel • Chocolate chip cookies

The civil Life Brewing co..’s take on american brown ale is velvety and rich, with a big chocolate note in every sip. with a low abv, it remains very easy drinking; you can comfortably enjoy a pint or two.

lagunitas Brewing Co.’s Brown shugga’ STYLE: American Strong Ale (9.9% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Friar Tuck, multiple locations, friartuckonline.com; $9.99 (6-pack, 12-oz bottles) PAIRINg: Parmigiano-Reggiano

Sometimes, mistakes can lead to something great.

Brown Shugga’ was a batch of Lagunitas olde gnarlywine ale that went awry. In an effort to save the batch, a “boatload” of brown sugar was added to the beer. The result was a beer that’s big and strong with some sticky sweetness. This is the perfect sipping beer for this time of year.

G. schneider & sohn’s schneider Aventinus Weizen-eisbock STYLE: Eisbock (12% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Randall's Wine and Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $4.99 (350-ml bottle) PAIRINgS: Sauerbraten • Brie

Some beer styles seem more like alchemy than chemistry. This beer is created by brewing a batch of Doppelbock and then freezing it. The water in the Doppelbock freezes, leaving a high-abv beer known as an eisbock. This beer is an extremely malty monster, with notes of banana, cloves and dried figs.

wrITTen By Chad Michael George

PROVENANCE: Little Rock, Ark. (46% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Bombay Wine & Spirits, 2190 First Capitol Drive, St. Charles, 636.949.6633; $33.99 TRY IT: In a martini or gin and tonic

Quite often, craft gins don’t taste like their commercial counterparts. rock Town Distillery, however, has made a craft bottling full of authentic gin flavor, making it a recent favorite. Juniper is the dominant botanical in this pot still creation, with smooth notes of citrus, caraway, pepper and tarragon. when mixed with Fever-Tree tonic water and served with a slice of lime, it might make the best gin and tonic you’ve ever tasted.

Masterson’s straight Rye Whiskey PROVENANCE: Alberta, Canada (45% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Lukas Liquor, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville, lukasliquorstl.com; $59.99 TRY IT: In a Manhattan or Sazerac

The latest import from our friends to the north features a 100 percent rye mashbill and is being imported by the Sebastiani family of wine fame.

The rye notes definitely prevail over the 10-year oak treatment in this bottle. To call it spicy is an understatement. The nose and palate are dominated by cinnamon, allspice and pepper, with a good amount of sweetness. as always, try it neat to experience the complex flavors before mixing it.

Boyd & Blair Vodka PROVENANCE: Pittsburgh (40% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $26.99 TRY IT: On the rocks with a twist of lime

For the third straight month, I find myself writing about vodka. Boyd & Blair vodka is one of the besttasting vodkas I’ve experienced. It’s distilled from Pennsylvania potatoes. Boyd & Blair only bottles the “hearts” of its distillate; other producers use the “tails” in subsequent distillations. Boyd & Blair’s result is a silky-smooth, creamy and completely flavorless vodka.

This is what vodka is supposed to be. To fully appreciate the luscious spirit, sip it neat or with one or two ice cubes and a twist of lime.

OUR TOP PICKS FOR NOVEMBER

PourIng wIne PhoTograPhy By ©ISTockPhoTo.com/LaurI PaTTerSon

WINE written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

Lallier Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru PROVENANCE: Champagne, France AVAILABLE AT: The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $65.99 PAIRINGS: Smoked fish • Truffled fries • Caviar

Champagne is something most people can never quite get enough of. whether enjoyed as a cocktail-party aperitif or the first glass of a coursed meal or given as a special gift, the famous sparkler is highly versatile. this supple, elegant blanc de blanc is made from 100 percent Grand Cru Chardonnay and tastes of soft citrus, sweet nuttiness and subtle earthiness.

2008 Shane Wine Cellars Syrah, Judge Vineyard PROVENANCE: Sonoma, Calif.

AVAILABLE AT: Saint Louis Wine Market & Tasting Room, 164 Chesterfield Commons East, Chesterfield, stlwinemarket.com; $38 PAIRINGS: Roasted lamb • Steak au poivre • Aged Parmesan

After an hour or so of breathing time, this multifaceted and alluring Syrah intoxicates the senses with dark blueberry and rich cocoa.

Layers continue to unfold in the stunningly long finish, revealing undertones of herbs, flowers and baking spice. enjoy now with a warm winter meal or hold on to the bottle for up to eight years.

2007 Carol Shelton Rocky Reserve Zinfandel PROVENANCE: Sonoma, Calif.

AVAILABLE AT: Naked Vine, 1624 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, nakedvine.net; $35.99 PAIRINGS: Hearty stews • Spicy sausage • Hamburgers

Some wines are meant for sipping when the air turns crisp – Zinfandel being at the top of the list.

Carol Shelton is highly dedicated to this grape and has clearly mastered the art of producing it. with lush blackberry followed by pepper spice and cedar notes, this wine shows a restrained sophistication as well as a structure that could hold in the cellar for a few more years.

Join Angela Ortmann and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville for a happy hour wine tasting at Vino Nadoz¯ on Thu., Nov. 17, at 6pm.

RSVP to rsvp@stlwinegirl.com.

®

JOIN US!

PPPhUzomqU@Q9h<os oW PPPh7@<9>oovh<osfUzomqU@Q9 Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2011

29

mySTery Shopper

Cassatine of ricotta and Black Walnuts with Spiced Tupelo honey Sauce

by Fabrizio schenardi, CIElO

Serves | 4 | cassatine

1¼ cups ¼ cup 1 tsp 1 tsp 2 tsp 2 Tbsp

ricotta (Impastata if available) sugar ground cinnamon orange blossom water rum chopped black walnuts, toasted

tupelo honey sauce

1/3 cup 1 tsp 1 1 tsp

tupelo honey cardamom pods vanilla bean confectioners’ sugar

| Preparation – Cassatine | blend ricotta with

| Preparation – tupleo Honey Sauce | Warm honey in a saucepan over low heat. Add cardamom pods and vanilla bean. Cook for 2 minutes. Remove cardamom pods and vanilla bean. Keep sauce warm until ready to serve. | to Serve | Unmold cassatines, drizzle with honey sauce and sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar.

meeT: TUPELO HONEY Van Morrison owes a lady an apology. In one of the Irish soul singer’s biggest hits, he croons his love is “as sweet as tupelo honey.”

So endearing! So heartfelt! So seemingly romantic that I insisted it be the song my gorgeous bride and I danced to at our wedding reception.

Except there’s a problem: Tupelo honey ain’t all that sweet. On the other hand, have you met my wife?

Stop by 30

feastSTL.com

WRITTEn by russ Carr

What is it?

If tupelo honey were a whiskey, it would be single malt.

If it were a spice, it would be saffron. If it were coffee, it would be kopi luwak.

The intricate and time-sensitive harvesting process is practiced by a small number of beekeepers in the Florida Panhandle and southern Georgia. Only along the Apalachicola, Chipola, Ochlockonee and Choctahatchee rivers do the tupelo gum trees grow. And they blossom for only a couple of weeks per year. Keepers must strip their hives of any residual honey, deliver the hives deep into the tupelo groves, wait a few days while the bees do their work, whisk the bees back and empty the hives before any “outside” honey can taint the supply.

If the keepers are successful, they’ll harvest a pure, pale honey that doesn’t crystallize, with a mellow flavor, delicate sweetness and light vanilla aroma. This is no bear-bodied imitation. This is the good stuff. hoW do i use it?

Make a mess of buttermilk biscuits. While they’re still hot, split one, drop in a pat of real butter and drizzle with tupelo honey. Eat immediately and repeat ‘til satiated (or out of biscuits). Honey can be substituted for sugar in many baking recipes, and tupelo honey – because it’s low in sucrose – may be an acceptable replacement for sweeteners for diabetics. Tupelo honey also can be used as the base for a great barbecue glaze or to add sweetness to homemade vinaigrette.

to pick up more delicious recipes featuring tupelo honey.Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations.

NOVEMBER 2011

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg

electric mixer until creamy. Add sugar, cinnamon, orange blossom water, rum and toasted walnuts. layer 4 single-portion aluminum cups with plastic wrap and divide the ricotta mix among cups. Chill for at least 5 hours.

check it out!

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TECH SCHOOL

STOCK

STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassandra Vires

As winter closes in, we turn to our favorite hearty comfort foods, most of which get their rich flavor from stock.

Purchasing packaged stock or broth is handy in a pinch, but homemade stock has such superior flavor and texture, it’s worth the extra steps.

The difference between stock and broth? Stock is made from bones, and broth is made from meat.

Stock is deeper in flavor and richer because of the proteins found in connective tissues and bones. These proteins, or collagens, give stock its velvety texture and, when reduced, its gelatinous consistency. It can easily be made whenever you have leftover bones from cooking. Fresh stock not used within a week can be frozen in ice cube trays, muffin tins or freezer bags for easy defrosting later. And it’s so easy to make, you can improvise without a recipe if you follow these basic guidelines: ○

| 1 | Roasting the bones will create a darker, fuller-flavored stock for soups. Unroasted bones will make a fantastic sauce.

○

Be creative with the mirepoix and aromatics. Traditionally, onion, carrot, celery and bay leaf are used, but add garlic, thyme, rosemary or leek for a more unique flavor base.

○

Never add salt. Since stock is a base for so many different dishes, it’s best to season the actual dish at hand.

○

| 2 | There’s no need for a precise amount of water. Just make sure there’s enough water to cover all the ingredients.

○

Always start with cold water. Heat can cause proteins to harden more quickly, preventing the slow release of proteins needed to create a fully flavorful stock. Also, don’t allow the stock to come to a boil. Adjust the temperature as needed to maintain a gentle simmer. If the liquid comes to a boil, the stock may become cloudy because impurities aren’t able to rise to the top.

○

Don’t stir. Stirring disrupts coagulation and pushes impurities back into the stock. | 3 | Instead, gently skim any fat or impurities from the top and discard.

○

Different stocks require different cooking times. Chicken stock must be cooked 3 to 4 hours, fish stock for 30 to 45 minutes, lamb stock for 5 to 6 hours, and veal and turkey stocks for 8 to 10 hours.

○

| 4 | Strain the stock to remove any bits and pieces, then refrigerate for up to a week or freeze.

Chef Cassandra Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen.

She received her culinary training in Houston, Texas, and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

COOKING VIDEO!

Watch chef Cassy make turkey risotto and see how easy it really is.

Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at

feastSTL.com.

32

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2011

Turkey Risotto This hearty risotto is a great application for the fresh turkey stock, not to mention leftover roasted turkey.

Serves | 4 to 6 | 6 cups 3 Tbsp 3

turkey stock olive oil leeks, washed thoroughly between layers, thinly sliced 1 cup assorted mushrooms, cleaned and sliced 3 cloves garlic, minced salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 cups arborio rice, rinsed ½ cup dry white wine 2 cups shredded roasted turkey 8 oz fresh chevre

| Preparation | In a medium saucepan, bring stock to a simmer. In a large pot, heat oil over medium-low heat until small ripples begin to appear. Add leeks, mushrooms and garlic and sauté until soft but not browned.

Season with salt and pepper.

Add rice and stir to coat. Deglaze the pan with wine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Continue to

stir until all the wine has cooked into the rice.

Add the simmering stock, ½ cup at a time, stirring frequently and allowing stock to be absorbed between each addition. Continue this process over low heat until rice is al dente. Stir in turkey and chevre, and season again with salt and pepper.

ChECK IT OuT!

Go to feastSTL.com for a step-by-step recipe for making turkey stock.

Feast extra

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vƒˆ‡ yÐ…L) )

|1|

Check Out Schnucks Cooks Videos For Tips & Techniques!

Our Schnucks Cooks how-to videos are full of tips and techniques from our team of culinary experts. If you want to learn more, check out our video library at www.schnuckscooks.com.

You’ll also find a variety of Schnucks Cooks recipes for quick, easy and affordable meal solutions.

At our in-store Schnucks Cooks stations, our experienced Cooking Coaches will demonstrate how to cook our featured recipes and sample them for you to try! You’ll find all the ingredients and cooking equipment for each recipe next to our Schnucks Cooks station in select stores.

¥=: :UWQ<UØ S=úÖ6= 2QVU= n>V 6Q<8 => ?nPQ>T 64:PUù T:n2ùØ 2Q8Q6 úúúÔ8WS>4WP8W==P8ÔW=?R

|2|

Turkey Gravy

Preparing our smooth, savory turkey gravy is easy.

Here are a few steps for making the perfect turkey gravy to go with your Thanksgiving feast (see complete recipe online).

PHOTOGRAPHY bY Jennifer Silverberg

|3|

Æ)

Let the drippings from the roasting pan stand for about one minute, or until fat separates to the top.

With a whisk, stir in a Ã)chickenSlowlystockaddoronebrothcuptoof À) ½)mixture.

Gradually stir in stock ½ cup of flour and cook 4 to the warmed roasting pan.

Stir until the browned bits are loosened from the bottom of pan.

6 minutes – stirring frequently until flour turns golden brown.

Visit www.schnuckscooks.com

for Schnucks Cooks videos, recipes, locations, our monthly newsletter and more!

©2011 Schnucks

|4| Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2011

33

EASY EATS

All thE Right Stuff RECiPE bY Lucy Schnuck

There’s more than one way to roast a turkey. in November, we’re going Mediterranean-style. This recipe is a marriage of two European dishes: a polpettone and a roulade. Polpettone is an italian rolled meatloaf, and a roulade is a French dish that consists of meat rolled around a filling. This quick dish uses pork sausage, prosciutto, sun-dried tomatoes, sage and kalamata olives to create a delightful and flavor-filled meal.

|1| | Preparation | Preheat oven to

Serves | 4 to 6 | 1 ½ cup 1/3 lb 1/3 cup 6 9 4 slices 1 tsp ½ tsp 2 tsp

boneless turkey breast italian-style bread crumbs seasoned ground pork sun-dried tomatoes, chopped kalamata olives, chopped large sage leaves prosciutto kosher salt freshly ground black pepper grape seed oil

|2|

|

CHEF’S

400°F, with the rack in the upper third of the oven. | 1 | Place turkey breast between two large pieces of plastic wrap and gently pound with a meat mallet until breast is about ½-inch thick. Sprinkle bread crumbs evenly over pounded turkey breast. Top with ground pork, leaving a ½-inch rim around the edges of the turkey breast.

Sprinkle sun-dried tomatoes and kalamata olives over the

pork. Place sage leaves over the tomatoes and olives as evenly as possible. | 2 | Layer on the prosciutto and carefully, but tightly, roll the turkey breast. Tie the rolled turkey breast in sections with kitchen twine as you would a roast.

Place rolled, tied breast in a small roasting pan. Season with salt and pepper. | 3 | Drizzle with grape seed oil to coat. Cook the breast until the center reaches 160°F, about 12 minutes per pound.

|

‘Tis (noT) The season. be careful not to over-season this dish, as the stuffing ingredients are already very high in salt. Adding too much additional salt will overwhelm the dish.

never poke a cooking Turkey. invest in a probe thermometer. if you keep poking the turkey breast with an instant-read thermometer during the cooking process, the juices will run and the turkey will dry out.

check iT ouT!

FeaSt extra

|3|

Check out feastsTL.com for a step-by-step slideshow on making this month’s dish.

PHOTOGRAPHY bY Jennifer Silverberg

The exhibition was created by The Field Museum, Chicago.

34

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2011

Illustrations by Velizar Simeonovski © The Field

d Museum

JOIN US! RSVP: SCHNUCKSCOOKS.COM or 314.909.1704

Join FEAST and the Schnucks Cooking School Team on Wed., Nov. 16, at 6PM to make the tasty menu shown here. Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RSVP at schnuckscooks.com.

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&5)43 .41,42++ / 8$<:=;$!%*$!> To purchase tickets, visit mohistory.org or call (314) 361-9017.

Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2011

35

THE

ARTOF

THANKSGIVING The Thanksgiving meal presents particular culinary challenges. On one hand, tradition plays a huge role in determining what is served each year. On the other, tradition can get boring. The art of creating a meal that satisfies traditionalists while exciting more adventurous diners lies in striking the right balance. Here, we present a contemporary spin on Thanksgiving that takes your turkey out of the oven and onto the grill, creates flexibility for vegetarian and vegan diners and makes dessert sweetly, elegantly simple.

THE MENU APPETIZERS . Sausage and Gruyère Puffs . Sweet Potato and Rosemary Blinis with Date Mascarpone and Crispy Prosciutto . Cheese Platter with Fig Compote . Pumpkin Polenta Cakes with Wild Mushrooms . Turkey Pâté Pinwheels MAIN DISHES . Grilled Thanksgiving Turkey . Grilled Dressing . Habañero Cranberry Sauce FLEXIBLE SIDE DISHES . Lentil Soup with Kale . Salade Lyonnaise . Deconstructed Green Bean Casserole . Hasselback Potatoes DESSERTS . Deep-Dish Apple Pie with Red Hot Cinnamon Ice Cream . Pecan Pie with Burnt-Caramel Ice Cream . Pear and Cranberry Tartlet with Sour Cream Ice Milk

HE ART

OF THANKSGIVING

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Jennifer Silverberg

PRE-GAME APPS RECIPES BY Angela Komis PHOTOGRAPHY BY Corey Woodruff

The last thing you need while you’re chopping and roasting and stirring and slicing on Thanksgiving Day is a bunch of people asking you for a nibble of this, a taste of that. These make-ahead hors d’oeuvres will help make the Big Day more manageable. They’ll keep hungry guests occupied (and happy) so you can work magic in the kitchen.

Sausage and Gruyère Puffs Yield | 12 to 15 puffs* | ¼ cup ¼ tsp 1 cup 1½ cups 2 1 1 tsp ½ tsp ½ tsp ¾ cup ¾ cup

butter, cut into pieces salt, plus more for seasoning cold water all-purpose flour eggs egg yolk Dijon-style mustard freshly grated nutmeg cayenne pepper finely grated Gruyère Italian sausage, cooked and cooled chopped fresh herbs, for garnish

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400°F. Place butter and salt in a large saucepan. Add water and bring to a boil. Quickly add flour.

Remove from heat and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until batter becomes a thick paste that pulls away from the sides of the pan. Beat eggs and yolk into mixture one at a time. Add mustard, nutmeg, cayenne, Gruyère and sausage. Fold into batter.

Place 1 Tbsp of batter for each puff onto nonstick baking sheet

(you can butter or oil the back of the spoon to prevent batter from sticking). Bake for 10 minutes.

Reduce temperature to 350°F and bake puffs another 15 minutes or until golden brown.

Sprinkle with salt and herbs immediately after removing from the oven. Let cool at room temperature.

Serve cold or at room temperature for up to 3 hours after baking. *Recipe is easily doubled for larger gatherings.

AUSAGE & GRU

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Turkey Pâté Pinwheels Yield | about 25 | POACHED TURKEY

1 lb 3 cups 1 cup 1 1 ½ 1 1 sprig 2 1 1 Tbsp

turkey breast cold water dry white wine carrot, cut in thirds celery stalk, cut in thirds onion, cut in half garlic clove, cut in half fresh thyme whole cloves bay leaf freshly ground black pepper

TURKEY PÂTÉ

1 Tbsp ¼ 1 clove 3 tsp 3 Tbsp 3 Tbsp ¼ cup 1 Tbsp ¼ tsp 1 tsp 1 tsp

extra-virgin olive oil onion, finely diced garlic, minced fresh thyme, finely chopped fresh parsley, finely chopped heavy cream Madeira honey ground cloves sea salt freshly ground black pepper

PINWHEELS

12 sheets ¼ cup ½ cup

phyllo butter, melted dried cranberries, coarsely chopped, plus more for garnish chopped fresh herbs, for garnish

| Preparation – Poached Turkey | Add all ingredients to a large pot. Simmer for 30 to 45 minutes or until turkey is cooked to an internal temperature of 170°F. Remove turkey from pot and let cool. When cool enough to handle, shred the meat with your fingers and set aside.

| Preparation – Turkey Pâté | Heat oil in sauté pan and cook onion until soft. Add garlic and thyme and sauté another minute. Add onion mixture to bowl of food processor. Add all other ingredients, plus the shredded turkey, and purée until thick.

| Preparation – Pinwheels | Heat oven to 350°F. Cover phyllo with a damp towel to prevent the phyllo from drying out and cracking. Spread the first sheet of phyllo out and brush entire sheet with melted butter using a pastry brush. Lay another sheet on top and repeat until all sheets are used. Do not brush the top sheet with butter. Spread pâté evenly on entire surface of top phyllo sheet.

Sprinkle cranberries evenly over pâté. Roll tightly and brush top with melted butter.

Using a sharp knife, score the phyllo roll every 2 inches by lightly cutting through a few sheets. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes or until golden brown. Cool completely at room temperature. Place, uncovered, in the refrigerator for 2 hours before cutting. When chilled, slice on score marks and arrange on a platter. Garnish with more cranberries and fresh chopped herbs, and serve.

URKEY PÂTÉ PIN

PRE-GAME APPS

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PRE-GAME APPS Sweet Potato and Rosemary Blinis with Date Mascarpone and Crispy Prosciutto Yield | approximately 30 blinis | BLINIS

1 large 2 tsp 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 4 Tbsp 1 cup 1 1½ cups 2 tsp

sweet potato sea salt, divided honey fresh-squeezed lemon juice fresh rosemary, chopped fine softened butter, divided milk egg, beaten all-purpose flour baking powder salt and freshly ground black pepper

DATE MASCARPONE

20 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 tsp ½ tsp 1 tsp ½ tsp 1 cup

dried Medjool dates semisweet white wine honey fresh-squeezed lemon juice lemon zest freshly ground nutmeg fresh rosemary, finely chopped kosher salt mascarpone, softened

CRISPY PROSCIUTTO

3 slices 1 Tbsp

prosciutto extra-virgin olive oil

| Preparation – Blinis | Wash, peel and cube the sweet potato. Place cubed potato in saucepan and cover with cold water and 1 tsp salt. Boil potato cubes until tender. Drain and put them in a food processor or mixer. Add honey, lemon juice, rosemary and 2 Tbsp butter. Purée until smooth. Slowly add the milk. While mixing, add the egg.

brown on both sides. Remove to a cooling rack and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

| Preparation – Date Mascarpone | Put dates, wine, honey, lemon juice, lemon zest, nutmeg, rosemary and salt in a food processor. Purée until mixture becomes a thick paste. Place mixture in mixing bowl.

Fold in mascarpone and blend well. | Preparation – Crispy Prosciutto |

In another bowl, combine flour, baking powder and remaining 1 tsp salt. Add sweet potato mixture to flour mixture.

Stir just until combined.

Lay the slices of prosciutto on top of each other. Roll tightly, lengthwise. Slice prosciutto very thinly into strips. Put olive oil in medium-hot sauté pan. Add several strips of the prosciutto at a time to hot skillet.

Cook until crispy. Drain on paper towels.

In a large sauté pan, melt remaining 2 Tbsp butter over medium-high heat. Add sweet potato batter with a measuring spoon, 1 Tbsp for each blini. Spread the batter with the bottom of the spoon to make a thin, small pancake shape. Cook until golden

| To Assemble | Place blinis on a platter or plate that can fit in the refrigerator.

Remove the platter about 30 minutes before your guests arrive. Top each blini with a dollop of the date mascarpone and garnish with strips of prosciutto.

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Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2011

43

PRE-GAME APPS

UMPKIN POLENTA CA

Pumpkin Polenta Cakes with Wild Mushrooms Serves | 30 |

POLENTA CAKES

4 Tbsp 1½ Tbsp 2 cups 1 cup 1½ cups ½ cup 2 tsp 2 tsp 1 cup 1 Tbsp

butter (approximate), divided, plus more for greasing dish fresh thyme, finely chopped vegetable stock whole or 2-percent milk quick-cooking polenta freshly grated Parmesan sea salt freshly ground black pepper pumpkin purée olive oil (approximate)

WILD MUSHROOMS*

2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 1 cup

1 cup 1 cup 1 clove 2 tsp 1 tsp 1 tsp ¼ cup

butter olive oil (approximate) shiitake mushrooms, caps only (stems aren’t edible), cleaned and coarsely chopped crimini mushrooms, cleaned and coarsely chopped oyster mushrooms, cleaned and coarsely chopped garlic, thinly sliced fresh thyme, finely chopped sea salt freshly ground black pepper good-quality dry red wine Parmesan, for garnish

| Preparation – Polenta Cakes | Melt 2 Tbsp butter in a large saucepan. Add thyme and sauté for 2 minutes. Add stock and milk. Bring to a slight boil.

Slowly add polenta while whisking vigorously and continuously to prevent lumps. After polenta is fully incorporated, add Parmesan, salt and pepper. Polenta will be very thick. Remove from heat and fold in the pumpkin purée.

Butter an 11x14-inch baking dish. Put mixture into baking dish and spread evenly. Cover and refrigerate overnight. The next day, run a knife around the polenta and turn the dish upside down on a cutting board to unmold. Cut into 2-inch squares. Then cut squares diagonally to make triangles.

Heat olive oil and remaining butter in a sauté pan. Fry about 4 to 5 polenta triangles at a time until each side is golden brown. (You may have to add more oil and butter to the pan occasionally.)

Remove to a cooling rack and sprinkle with a pinch of salt.

| Preparation – Wild Mushrooms | Heat a large sauté pan on medium-high. Add butter and olive oil. When heated through, add mushrooms and sear on all sides until golden brown and caramelized. If pan gets dry, add another Tbsp of olive oil. Add garlic, thyme, salt and pepper.

Sauté until garlic is soft. Add red wine and simmer until reduced. Let cool.

| To Assemble | Arrange polenta cakes on a platter. Top with sautéed mushrooms. Garnish with some of the red-wine reduction and freshly grated Parmesan. *Hen of the woods, chanterelle, black trumpet and lobster mushrooms are also in season during the fall. Check specialty stores and farmers’ markets for seasonal mushroom varieties.

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Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2011

45

WRITTEN BY Jennifer Johnson

APPETIZER WINE PAIRINGS

AUSTRIAN RIESLING Riesling is largely misunderstood and considered cheap and cloyingly sweet.

Great Riesling, however, offers a stunningly aromatic, extracted profile of honey, stone and citrus fruit notes and ample minerality.

Austrian Riesling, particularly from Wachau in Lower Austria, pairs well with these appetizers. Austrian Riesling’s clean-as-awhistle, dry, full-bodied and concentrated flavors heighten the melt-in-your-mouth flaky texture of the puffs, while enhancing the Gruyère’s nuttiness with concentrated honeyed notes. The wine’s crisp acidity complements the full, tangy flavor of Humboldt Fog cheese.

ALSATIAN GEWÜRZTRAMINER Gewürztraminer’s spicy and ideally subdued floral profile, as well as its fullbodied nature, can make it a fine pair with savory food, underscoring the seasonings used with its own characteristics of lychee nut, citrus peel, allspice and nutmeg.

Gewürztraminer from Alsace is considered the finest example of this varietal, and the best offerings are aromatic and dry. Its mélange of spicy aromatics aligns with the blinis’ sweet freshness from the rosemary and exotic honeyed nature of the dates.

Gewürztraminer works well with a diverse selection of cheeses, de-emphasizing the pungency of strong cheeses.

RED BURGUNDY, CÔTES DE NUITS Red Burgundy from Côtes de Nuits would be splendid with this array of appetizers.

These Pinot Noirs typically express a more earth-driven profile than many of their fruit-forward New World counterparts.

The nuanced earthiness, along with Pinot Noir’s medium-bodied, lower-tannin nature, makes it a great pair with moderately seasoned dishes. Pinot Noir emphasizes earthy flavors, such as the wild mushrooms in the polenta cakes. It doesn’t demur to fruit or sweet flavors in a dish, such as the cranberries in the pâté pinwheels. And it adds a depth of fatty flavor to prosciutto and other charcuterie.

HEESE PLA

PRE-GAME APPS Cheese Platter Choose three to five cheeses for your platter. For the most interesting selection, offer a range of flavors, milks and textures. My favorite combination is Humboldt Fog (a soft goat’s milk cheese), Valdeón (a semisoft blue cheese made from cow’s and goat’s milk and wrapped in sycamore leaves) and Manchego (a semihard cheese made from sheep’s milk).

Cut each cheese into a wedge of desired weight, depending on amount of guests served. A general rule of thumb is 3 ounces of cheese (total) per person. Arrange wedges on a platter, with a small knife for each type of cheese and good-quality crackers or bread. Dried cranberries are great with Humboldt Fog. The Valdeón is exceptional with honey and honeycomb. Serve the Manchego with toasted salted almonds and marinated olives. Freshly made fig compote is a sweet foil to any of these cheeses.

TOASTED SALTED ALMONDS

1 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 2 cups ¼ tsp 2 Tbsp

butter olive oil whole blanched almonds cayenne pepper sea salt or kosher salt

| Preparation | Melt the butter and olive oil in a large sauté pan. Add almonds and toast in the skillet for about 5 minutes or until golden brown. Toss in the cayenne and salt.

Mix well. Let cool and serve or store in an airtight container.

MARINATED OLIVES

1 cup 1 cup 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 tsp 1 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 2 tsp 1 Tbsp

black olives green olives orange zest lemon zest fresh rosemary, finely chopped fennel seed fresh parsley, finely chopped extra-virgin olive oil minced fresh garlic sherry vinegar

| Preparation | Mix all ingredients together, cover and let marinate 8 hours or overnight.

FIG COMPOTE

Yield | approximately 1½ cups | 1 cup ¾ cup ½ cup 2 Tbsp 4 1 1 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp ½ tsp

dried figs, roughly chopped apple cider white wine honey whole cloves cinnamon stick star anise pod orange zest fresh-squeezed lemon juice kosher salt

| Preparation | Put all ingredients in medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for 1 to 1½ hours. Remove cloves, cinnamon stick and star anise. Purée figs and remaining liquid in a food processor or blender. Chill before serving.

ATTER

Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2011

47

THE MAIN DISHES STORY AND RECIPES BY Andrew Mark Veety PHOTOGRAPHY BY Jonathan Gayman

Thanksgiving is the celebration of friends and family, home, and the bounty that harvest brings. We often capture the conviviality of the holiday but miss out on what makes the Thanksgiving meal special – cherishing the passing of fall to winter flavors – in favor of a stable of rote dishes planned around the navigation of a frenetic holiday kitchen. This fall, rethink the generally accepted preparation of the Thanksgiving centerpiece and accoutrements.

Grilling turkey – slowly roasting it beside a fire and seasoning it with the subtle flavors of mellow smoking woods like apple, hickory and pecan – brings out the best in the bird. A brine of cider, cloves, allspice and honey and the addition of shallots, sage and butter under the skin before grilling are the foundation for a perfectly moist and flavorful turkey. Tart cranberries, sweet apples and pears, and a hot habañero create a sauce that will change the way guests think about gravy.

As the turkey rests, use the fire to assemble a rustic, cast-iron-skillet dressing. Grilled bread, salty bacon, earthy mushrooms, leeks and Brussels sprouts – one of the season’s best, yet overlooked, vegetables – make a soul-satisfying side dish. Finish covered on the grill in the fire’s dying embers for the perfect ending to a reinvigorated Thanksgiving.

INDIRECT VS. DIRECT GRILLING FOR INDIRECT GRILLING, the fire is built to the side of the item being grilled, allowing for low and even cooking without burning the exterior before the interior is fully cooked.

FOR DIRECT GRILLING, the fire is built in the middle of the grill and food is heated directly above it for quick cooking and searing.

HANK

KSGIVING TURKEY

THE MAIN DISHES Grilled Thanksgiving Turkey Serves | 8 to 10 | 4 quarts ½ cup ¼ cup 1½ cups 3 quarts 12- to 14-lb ¾ lb 2 1 tsp 1 1

cider, divided honey mix of whole cloves, whole allspice and peppercorns kosher salt ice water fresh turkey,* cleaned, neck and gizzard removed butter, softened large shallots, minced ground sage apple, quartered onion, quartered

| Preparation | Two days before grilling, bring 3 quarts apple cider, honey, spices and salt to a boil in a stock pot over high heat. Let cool and combine with ice water in a brining container.

Submerge turkey and refrigerate for 36 hours. Remove turkey from brine, rinse and pat dry. Use fingers to carefully separate the skin from meat, starting at the neck and proceeding back to the legs. Refrigerate uncovered on a clean baking sheet for 12 hours. In a mixing bowl, combine butter, shallots and sage to make a compound butter. Apply half the butter in an even layer between the turkey meat and skin.

Prepare grill for indirect cooking (see page 48). Position a disposable aluminum pan under the cooking area and fill pan with remaining cider. Place apple and onion inside the turkey cavity and place turkey, loosely trussed**, on grill. Add smoking wood and grill, covered, at 250°F. Turn turkey once during grilling. Melt remaining butter to baste the turkey halfway through grilling. Add additional coal and smoking wood as needed. Remove turkey from grill when internal temperature of thigh meat reaches 160°F. Allow turkey to rest for 30 minutes before carving. * Select a fresh turkey without added basting solution for brining and grilling. ** Loosely trussing the turkey before grilling allows the aromatics placed within the bird’s cavity to slowly steam and flavor the inside of the bird.

Grilled Dressing Serves | 8 to 10 | 1 loaf 3 Tbsp 8 oz 1 lb ½ cup ½ cup 6 cloves 1 cup 3 cups 1 Tbsp

RILLE

slightly stale rustic Italian bread, sliced 1-inch thick extra-virgin olive oil, divided salt thick-cut bacon* Brussels sprouts, quartered cleaned and chopped leeks chopped celery garlic, coarsely chopped crimini mushrooms, chopped poultry stock, divided thyme freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation | While turkey is resting, clean cooking grate.

Prepare grill for direct cooking (see page 48), adding fuel as needed to achieve a hot fire. Drizzle sliced bread with 2 Tbsp olive oil and season with salt. Quickly grill, turning once, then remove and cut into ½-inch cubes. Place skillet on grill.

Add bacon and brown for 3 minutes. Add remaining oil and Brussels sprouts, leeks, celery, garlic and mushrooms. Turn the mixture frequently with a spatula for 3 minutes. Add bread.

Add stock ½ cup at a time, allowing mixture to absorb liquid before adding more. Add thyme, salt and pepper to taste. Grill, covered, for 20 minutes, turning mixture occasionally. * Pancetta or guanciale can be substituted for bacon.

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Habañero Cranberry Sauce Serves | 8 to 10 | 1 Tbsp ½ cup 5 cloves ½ cup 1 cup 1 1 1 1 Tbsp 2 cups 1 cup 1 cup ½ cup ½ cup ¼ cup

extra-virgin olive oil minced red onion garlic, minced tomato paste whole cranberries* pear, cored and chopped apple, cored and chopped habañero or jalapeño, chopped with seeds removed Worcestershire sauce chicken stock dry white wine cranberry juice apple juice apple cider vinegar honey salt to taste

| Preparation | Place oil in a saucepan and heat to medium. Add onion and garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 2 minutes.

Add tomato paste and sauté for another minute. Add remaining ingredients and bring to a simmer over low heat. Using an immersion blender or food processor, process until liquid achieves a smooth consistency. If using a food processor, process hot liquid in batches before returning liquid to the pan. Simmer and reduce by half. Sauce can be made the day before and refrigerated. Serve cold, like barbecue sauce, or warmed, like traditional gravy. * Whole cranberries are preferred but cranberry sauce can be substituted.

RANBERRY SAU

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Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2011

53

ASSELBACK POT

FLEXIBLE SIDES RECIPES BY Erik Jacobs PHOTOGRAPHY BY Jennifer Silverberg

Thanksgiving brings lots of hungry mouths to the table, all with their own dietary considerations. How do you please your vegan, vegetarian and omnivore guests without making dozens of separate side dishes?

Start with a delicious vegan dish and offer the vegetarians and omnivores some savory add-ins to customize it to their liking.

Hasselback Potatoes Invented in the Hasselbacken hotel in Sweden, the dish presents beautifully and offers a delicious alternative to standard roasted potatoes. Vegans in your crowd will appreciate the addition of paprika and bay leaves (which make a beautiful serving decoration, but should be removed before eating) to the roasting process, while the vegetarians can enjoy a bit of sharp Welsh rarebit. Meat lovers will be over the moon with the addition of crispy duck confit.

Serves | 6 | 6 5 Tbsp 12 1 tsp 2 tsp

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large Yukon gold or red potatoes (4 to 5 oz each) olive oil bay leaves paprika kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste fresh parsley, minced for garnish

VEGETARIAN VARIATION – WELSH RAREBIT

2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 1 tsp 1 tsp ½ tsp ½ tsp ½ cup ¾ cup 1½ cups

unsalted butter flour Worcestershire sauce mustard powder kosher salt freshly ground black pepper dark beer (Schlafly Oatmeal Stout would be wonderful) heavy cream shredded sharp Cheddar

OMNIVORE VARIATION – CRISPY CONFIT

2 legs 1 tsp

duck confit* olive oil

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 450°F. Slice a section from bottoms of potatoes so they will sit flat in a baking pan. Make crosswise cuts, ¼-inch apart, on tops of potatoes, being careful not to slice all the way through.

Place potatoes, flat-side down, on greased baking pan. Brush the potatoes with olive oil. Break each bay leaf in half and place a piece in all slits in potatoes. Season potatoes well with paprika, salt and pepper. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until golden brown and crispy.

Remove from oven, add parsley and serve.

| Vegetarian Preparation | In a medium saucepan over low heat, make a blond roux by melting the butter and slowly whisking in the flour. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, being careful not to brown.

Whisk in Worcestershire sauce, mustard powder, salt, and pepper until smooth. Add beer and cream stir and whisk until smooth.

Gradually add Cheddar, stirring constantly until cheese melts and sauce is smooth. (This may take 3 to 4 minutes.) Pour Welsh rarebit onto a small plate or serving dish and place potato on top or offer it in a serving bowl and allow guests to pour on their desired amount.

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| Omnivore Preparation | Remove the meat and skin from the bones and shred. In a hot pan, add oil and then add duck meat.

Sear for 1 minute. (The duck is already cooked, so all you’re doing is creating a crispy texture.) Turn off heat. Top potatoes with rarebit and crispy duck. *Available at many specialty grocers including The Wine Merchant in Clayton.

TATOES

Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2011

55

FLEXIBLE SIDES Salade Lyonnaise This classic French salad gives your guests a variety of options that will satisfy their palates and dietary needs. Vegans can enjoy the salad alone (perhaps with croutons), vegetarians can enjoy it with a poached egg and omnivores will swoon with the addition of crispy lardons. This recipe is gluten free.

| Preparation | Wash, dry and

Serves | 6 | 6 cups 2 ¼ tsp 1 Tbsp 3 Tbsp ½ cup + 2 Tbsp

frisée, or curly endive shallots, minced freshly ground black pepper Dijon mustard sherry vinegar, or goodquality white wine vinegar good-quality extravirgin olive oil

VEGETARIAN VARIATION – POACHED EGGS

2 Tbsp 6

salt eggs

OMNIVORE VARIATION – LARDONS

2 Tbsp ½ lb

olive oil smoked slab or thick-cut bacon, cut into ½-inch cubes

chop frisée or endive and place in a serving bowl.

Add shallots, pepper, mustard and vinegar to a small mixing bowl.

Whisk to combine. Slowly pour in oil a few drops at a time, whisking constantly. As the oil begins to emulsify, pour the oil in a slow gentle stream. Toss greens in dressing and serve.

| Vegetarian Preparation | In a small, deep skillet, heat about 3 inches of water to a boil. Add salt and lower heat to a faint simmer.

Break each egg into a shallow bowl (one at a time) and slip it gently into the simmering water. Cook each egg for about 4 minutes, just until the white is set and the yolk has cooked slightly. Remove each egg with a slotted spoon and drain briefly. Top each salad with egg and serve immediately.

| Omnivore Preparation | Pour oil into a skillet over mediumlow heat. When shimmering, add bacon and cook slowly until crisp all over, about 10 to 15 minutes.

Drain on paper towels. Add bacon to salads.

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ENTIL SOUP WI

FLEXIBLE SIDES Lentil Soup with Kale Lentil soup is a hearty and warming opening course for your Thanksgiving table. The recipe below is vegan and gluten free. But with the addition of curried yogurt as a garnish, you can please any vegetarian. And by offering some wonderfully spicy merguez as well, you can satisfy meat lovers.

Serves | 6 | 2 Tbsp 1 6 cloves 3 stalks 4 1 cup 5 cups ½ tsp 2 tsp 1 bunch 1 1 Tbsp

olive oil onion, chopped garlic, chopped or minced celery, chopped (leaves reserved for garnish) carrots, sliced red lentils vegetable broth cumin smoked paprika kale, chopped bay leaf Madras curry salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

VEGETARIAN VARIATION – CURRIED YOGURT

¼ cup

plain yogurt Madras curry

OMNIVORE VARIATION – SAUSAGE

½ lb

merguez,* chopped

| Preparation | Heat olive oil in large stock pot over medium-high heat. Add onion and sauté until translucent. Add garlic, celery and carrots and sauté for 1 minute more.

Add lentils, broth, cumin, paprika, kale, bay leaf and curry. Stir, cover and turn heat to medium low. Check after 20 minutes and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook for an additional 15 to 20 minutes, until soup begins to thicken and lentils are tender. (You may need to add more water.) Be careful not to over-cook, as the lentils will disintegrate.

Remove bay leaf and serve. Garnish with reserved chopped celery leaves.

| Vegetarian Preparation | Stir some Madras curry powder into plain yogurt at least a few hours prior to serving to allow flavors to blend. To serve, add a dollop of curried yogurt to the center of each bowl of soup as an attractive and delicious vegetarian garnish.

| Omnivore Preparation | Chop some cooked merguez and add it to the soup at the very end of the cooking process.

*Merguez is a North African and Spanish beef-and-mutton sausage. You can order it online.

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Inspired Food Culture

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59

FLEXIBLE SIDES Deconstructed Green Bean Casserole You know the traditional dish. Green beans drowned in cream of mushroom soup and topped with crispy onions.

The flavors may work well together, but the dish tastes pretty bland. With this presentation, you can update things a bit and offer friends and family a version with more intense flavor and brighter color. Guests who follow a gluten-free diet can enjoy this dish without the bread crumb topping.

Serves | 6 | 1 lb 1½ lbs 6 ¼ cup 1 tsp ½ tsp

shiitake mushrooms, cleaned and stems removed green beans, trimmed and washed shallots, sliced extra-virgin olive oil kosher salt freshly ground black pepper

VEGETARIAN VARIATION – GRUYÈRE BREAD CRUMBS

1 cup ¼ tsp ¼ cup 2 Tbsp

bread crumbs freshly ground black pepper Gruyère, grated olive oil

OMNIVORE VARIATION – CRISPY PROSCIUTTO

1 Tbsp 6 slices

olive oil prosciutto

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 450°F. Slice

| Omnivore Preparation | Brush baking sheet with oil and place prosciutto flat on the sheet. Bake in 350°F oven until crispy, about 5 minutes. Crumble and add as a garnish on top of the roasted, bread crumb-topped beans and mushrooms.

WRITTEN BY Jennifer Johnson

| Vegetarian Preparation | Mix the bread crumbs, pepper, Gruyère and oil in a small bowl and sprinkle over the cooked beans and mushrooms. Place back in oven until crisped.

TURKEY &SIDES WINE PAIRINGS

mushrooms ½-inch thick and toss in a bowl with beans, shallots, oil, salt and pepper. Spread the beans and mushrooms evenly on a baking sheet. Roast, stirring once halfway through, until lightly caramelized and crisptender, 12 to 15 minutes.

NAPA VALLEY UNOAKED CHARDONNAY This is a great opportunity to revisit Chardonnay and include a fine New World example at your holiday table. Chardonnay works perfectly with this menu lineup.

Chardonnay that hasn’t been aged in oak can express its true varietal characteristics of apple, citrus and tropical fruit, and its full-bodied nature can enhance many vegetable dishes. Paired with the grilled turkey, it lends acidity and depth of flavor to seasonings and accents the resulting juiciness of the grilled bird. An unoaked Napa Chardonnay highlights the earthy yet creamy nature of the lentil soup and the green bean casserole and heightens the smoky flavor of the Salade Lyonnaise’s bacon.

CENTRAL COAST ZINFANDEL Central Coast California boasts many examples of fruit-forward, moderate-alcohol Zinfandels that make an excellent match with this Thanksgiving menu. Zinfandel’s typically spicy, black-peppery and cherry/raspberry/blackberry profile, as well as its high acidity, works well with the relatively mildly spiced poultry preparation, heightening the smoky nature of the bacon or guanciale.

BEAUJOLAIS Produced from Gamay grapes in southern Burgundy, Beaujolais are juicy, fruity and somewhat spicy medium-bodied wines. They fit Thanksgiving dinner well because they’re so versatile with savory dishes without adding too much spice, heat or seasonings. Beaujolais from many crus, or designations that produce superior wines, are often an excellent value, and they work well with vegetable side dishes. Beaujolais don’t undermine the season’s signature flavors, such as cranberries, sweet potatoes and baking spices. In addition, Beaujolais don’t have high tannins that would squelch the holiday’s traditional, rustic preparations of lower-fat, high-protein meats.

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Tues-Fri 11-2 & 5-9, Sat & Sun 5-9 &1&. -23;48"% 9<' / -6>2$:<6=+ 70 ,&)(.,,(1))1 / !$"5"!<$#*82'2$5

Our BBQ is served with sauce on the side because we can JV's was the former home of the Schorr family brewery, which was built in 1880's and operated up until prohibition years. There are three fermenting cellars below street level; the third story down is now under water. JV's has been in operation under the same management for 27 years. We serve the best in hickory smoked pork and chicken. Our ribs and chicken are smoked for five hours, while our brisket and pork butts are smoked for over 14 hours for full flavor. Our BBQ is served with sauce on the side, because we can. We are Happy to be celebrating our 27th year in business!!

117 N. Main St., Waterloo, IL, 62298 Call: 618-939-7127 Mon-Thurs 11am-8:30pm Fri & Sat 11am-9pm

Prum Wehlener Son Auslese "A vivid and intense auslese, if a bit compact at this stage, refealing poure golden apple, nectarine, floral and light slate flavors. This is discreet, ethereal even, with a long, savory aftertaste."

Boulevard Smokestake series No. 2

One of the most unique characteristics of Collaboration #2 is its aroma.

Sage adn lemongrass were added to the vessels post-fermentation, as well as three varieties of hops, all of which contribute solely to Vineyards Wine & Spirits aromatics. The Belgian-style yeast strain adds hints of bubblegum 636-519-WINE and clove. The other main feature that should be specifically pointed www.vineyardswine.com out to consumers is the beer's lingering hang. It is no more bitter that Single-Wide I.P.A., but something about the combination of herbs Like us on Facebook to and hops creates an almost spicy, peppery quality in the finish. receive more discounts.

The Premier Getaway Experience

Tara Point Inn

&

Tara Point Cottages

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The Inn has GIFT two Riverside CERTIFICATES rooms plus the AVAILABLE Delta Queen Suite.

Suite includes Sitting Room & Whirlpool Bath.

Three Cottages have a total of eight suites, all have a den with fireplaces. Bedrooms all have king size beds & Whirlpool Baths.

Tara Point is located just 12 National Scenic Byway miles upriver from Alton, atop a bluff overlooking the Mississippi River.

Many say it’s the most beautiful view in the Midwest. All Inn & Cottage Suites have great river Views.

Box 1 • Grafton, IL 62037 • www.tarapoint.com • For Brochure or Reservations: (618) 786-3555 • Fax: (618) 786-3255 Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2011

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY Jonathan Gayman

The oven is packed with stuffing, turkey and homemade rolls. There’s no room, and honestly not enough time, to bake any Thanksgiving pies. This year, leave it to the professionals to mold buttery crusts and seasonal fillings into the desserts your family craves. But it’s not a true celebration without something sweet from your own kitchen. Homemade ice cream can be made up to a week in advance and is always a crowd pleaser.

French-style ice cream is made from crème anglaise. This stirred custard can be intimidating because it’s easily curdled, but the techniques outlined here will ensure good results. The tools you need are simple: a medium saucepot, a good-sized stainless steel or glass bowl (to create a double boiler), a whisk, a heatproof rubber spatula, a fine-mesh strainer, a two-quart container to hold the finished product and an ice bath. Oh, yeah. You need an ice cream maker, too.

Pear and Cranberry Tartlet with Sour Cream Ice Milk At 4 Seasons Bakery, Agi and Aaron Groff make a fantastic frangipane tartlet. It’s available yearround and features seasonal fruit. (The tartlets are also available at the Winter Farmers’ Market in Maplewood.) Individual plated desserts like these tiny tarts are a sophisticated end to an elegant sit-down dinner. The tender short crust (similar to a sugar cookie) is filled with frangipane made from toasted, ground almonds, which now is topped with pears, cranberries and sweet streusel. Serve tartlets with this simple-to-make, no-cook ice milk and a pool of port wine reduction and you’ll be in heaven!

4 SEASONS BAKERY

2012 Campus Drive, St. Charles, 4seasonsbakery.com 314.288.9176 SOUR CREAM ICE MILK

Yield | 1 quart | 1 14-oz can sweetened condensed milk 1 cup whole milk 1 cup full-fat sour cream ¼ cup buttermilk 1 Tbsp pure vanilla extract

| Preparation | Easy as pie: Just stir all ingredients together and freeze in your ice cream maker!

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hC…… Holiday Concert Friday, December 2 7:00 p.m.

Scottish Rite Auditorium St. Louis, MO

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE

Band of Mid-America

The USAF Band of MidAmerica, stationed at Scott Air Force Base, Illinois, presents a Holiday concert.

Don’t miss this family event!

For concert information, please call: 314-533-7410

Doors will open at 6:45 p.m. for for those those without without tickets. tickets.

free concert

STORY AND RECIPES BY Christy Augustin

EAR & CRANBERRY T

EASY AS PIE

For your Free Tickets: The United States Air Force Please send a self-addressed, stamped envelope to: Scottish Rite Band of Mid-America 3633 Lindell Blvd presents a free Holiday Concert:

Holiday in Blue Scottish Rite Auditorium Friday, December 2, 2011 7:00 p.m.

St. Louis, MO 63108 ATTN: Paul Demerath

Up to 4 tickets per request. One parking pass will accompany the first 400 ticket requests. Doors will open at 6:45 p.m. for those without tickets.

Prefer an e-ticket? visit www.bandofmidamerica.af.mil (E-ticket holders are not eligible for parking passes).

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EASY AS PIE Pecan Pie with Burnt-Caramel Ice Cream Sugaree Baking Co., a 15-year-old Mecca for beautiful, made-from-scratch wedding cakes and assorted buttery delights, is open to the public on Fridays and Saturdays for pies, pies and more pies. (Their pies are also sold at Local Harvest Grocery and Ladue Market.) Pastry chef Pat Rutherford-Pettine and her husband, Jim, anticipate selling nearly 1,000 pies this Thanksgiving. Get on the company’s mailing list to find out about weekly offerings, and call or email ahead if you have a favorite because they usually sell out. Their pecan pie has an amazing crust and brown sugar goo in the center that’s topped with pecan halves. Enhance the pie’s flavor with burnt-caramel ice cream.

SUGAREE BAKING CO.

1242 Tamm Ave., Dogtown, sugareebaking.com 314.645.5496 BURNT-CARAMEL ICE CREAM

Yield | 1 quart | 1 cup + 2 Tbsp 1½ cups 8 1½ cups ½ tsp 2 Tbsp 2 tsp

granulated sugar heavy cream egg yolks whole milk sea salt Steen’s cane syrup or honey pure vanilla extract

| Preparation | Place sugar in a heavybottomed bott omed saucepot and cover with just enough water to give the appearance of wet sand. Heat flames on medium-high, being careful fl ames don’t lip up the sides of the pot.

Cover the pot during the first few minutes to help wash down any sugar crystals stuck to the sides. Once the sugar begins to boil, gently stir around the edges of liquefies. the pot to make sure the sugar liquefi es. Quit after liquefies. stirring aft er the sugar liquefi es. (Agitation can cause recrystallization and result in grainy ice cream.) The sugar should be a dark-amber color.

Remove from heat. Gently pour in the heavy cream while stirring with a heatproof spatula or wooden spoon. Be careful, mixture will bubble up. Heat on low to melt any hard lumps of caramel before proceeding. In a stainless steel bowl, whisk the yolks, milk, salt, cane syrup and vanilla extract together. Add the caramel sauce slowly.

Use the pot from the caramel for the bainmarie. (For much easier cleanup.) Place bowl over the pot of simmering water. Turn heat to medium-low and cook, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula, until the custard thickens, approximately 5 minutes. Strain the base into container and place in an ice bath to chill.

Mature the base in the refrigerator for 12 to 24 hours, then freeze according to your ice cream maker’s instructions.

ECAN PIE

Interactive Mystery Dinner Theatre “It's a Wonderful Death” The Bissell Mansion Murder Mystery Dinner Theatre would like to invite you to the most enjoyable Holiday/Christmas entertainment.

This year our presentation is "It's a Wonderful Death," a parody of Frank Capra's classic "It's a Wonderful Life." In our version, the cantankerous Mr. Potter is found murdered, but with so many suspects in Bedford Falls, the culprit is difficult to find.

This interactive comedy mystery will be presented with a 4-course meal to DIE for!

"It's A Wonderful Death"

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Reservations: 314-533-9830

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ˆ:< Ÿi55 M5 <:7Q 3Oi; 5O:99M;PÏÏÏ ž3 M5 i; ù9Q7MQ;RQNNN Turn your holiday shopping into a European Adventure with unique, imported liqueurs, single malt whiskies, spirits and wine.

Vom Fass - where unique gifts begin; exquisite, imported Liqueurs, Irish and Scotch single malts and spirits are perfect for creating a one of a kind gift. You are only limited by your imagination. If you need help Vom Fass has an abundance of ideas, such as a tower of Single Malt Whiskeys for the Scotch or Irish Whiskey lovers, a stack of 3 different types of Absinthe with a beautiful Absinthe spoon, delicious liqueurs that are amazing alone or compliment a beautiful bottle of Prosecco, a stack of liqueurs that make a Vom Fass cocktail with the recipe attached or a tower of Calvados, Spanish and Italian Brandies for sipping by the fire. There is no shortage of ideas to assist you with your Holiday gifts.

7314 Manchester Ave., Maplewood MO 63143 (314) 932-5262

Mon. - Sat. 10am-7pm Sunday 11am-5pm For events and new products "Like us on Facebook at

"Vom Fass St. Louis"

VOM FASS takes pride in selling vinegars and oils that you can taste, dispensed into any of over 50 varieties of traditional and elegant bottles. Each bottle is inscribed with a special message or simply with details of their contents. Customers are encouraged to return with their bottles for refills of vinegar and oil!

These are gifts that keep giving every time the bottle is refilled.

Upon request, gifts are beautifully wrapped - compliments of VOM FASS. Shipping is available for all non-alcoholic purchases.

Simply The Best Great Steaks and Seafood

Kreis' serves the finest USDA Prime Mid Western Corn-fed Beef, aged four to six weeks in house. We offer an extensive choice of the classic Steak Cuts and Seafood including our famous Prime Rib. Simply the best available-Top 2%. As well as Colorado Lamb Chops, the best you can buy!

Bring In This Ad For a Half off a bottle of Wine from our Wine List

Call Today To Book Your Reservation 314-993-0735 www.kriesrestaruant 535 S. Lindbergh, St. Louis

Discount up to $30.

OR - 20% Off your bill Discount up to $20 *Valid only with purchases of two dinner entrees. Dine-in only.

Not valid on holidays or with any other discount. Reservations recommended.

Walk-Ins always accepted. Tax & gratuity not included in discount Expires 12/10/11.

(Conveniently located 1/3 mile north of Highway 40/64 between Conway and Ladue Road)

Where Friends and Family Meet…

St. Charles Best Kept Secret... TUBBY'S PUB & GRUB Located inside PLAZA LANES has Steak Specials for $12.99 Tuesday - Rib Eye, Wednesday - Fillet & Thursday - Strip Lunch: Monday -Friday 11AM - 2PM Dinner: Tuesday - Saturday 4PM - 10PM

636-925-1033

Eat In • Carry Out Banquet Facility • Catering Available

PLAZA LANES Family Fun, Parties and Leagues Newly Renovated Bowling Center

506 Droste St. Charles, MO

636-724-1350 Inspired Food Culture

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EASY AS PIE Deep-Dish Apple Pie with Red Hot Cinnamon Ice Cream The Smokehouse Market is known for its unique gourmet items that make your at-home meals shine.

Its home-style pies are available in seasonal flavors that range from cherry to rhubarb. The market’s classic deep-dish apple pie is stuffed full of tender apples and has a flaky crust. What to pair with this traditional pie? My take on spicy Red Hots candy in the form of ice cream. Serve this pie and ice cream combo with apple butter and your family will swoon.

THE SMOKEHOUSE MARKET

16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield smokehousemarket.com 636.532.3314 RED HOT CINNAMON ICE CREAM

Yield | 1 quart | 1 cup 1 pinch 8 1½ cups 1½ cups 1 1 Tbsp ¼ tsp ¼ tsp

granulated sugar kosher salt egg yolks whole milk heavy cream cinnamon stick red pepper flakes ground cinnamon (I like the Vietnamese cinnamon from Penzeys Spices) pure vanilla extract

| Preparation | Put 2 to 3 inches of water in bottom of

WRITTEN BY Jennifer Johnson

DESSERT WINE PAIRINGS

pot and bring water to a simmer. In a stainless steel bowl, whisk the sugar, salt and egg yolks until pale in color. Stir in the milk, cream, spices and vanilla extract.

MISSOURI VIGNOLES Vignoles is the most widely planted and highly regarded white grape variety in Missouri. The variety is considered difficult difficult to grow but a pleasure to produce – resulting in true varietal expressiveness, whether vinifi vinified ed dry or sweet. Most Missouri Vignoles are produced with at least a bit of sweetness, enhancing their tropical and stone fruit profile profile and floral floral aromas. Look for a semisweet Vignoles to pair with the concentrated fruit and vanilla flavors flavors of deep-dish apple pie and French-style ice cream. And consider opening a bott bottle le before dinner, as Vignoles also works well with soft and creamy cheeses.

MUSCAT DE BEAUMES-DE-VENISE This Thanksgiving, try a Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise. The delicate, aromatic sweet wine is made from the best Muscat grape variety: Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains. The variety hails from the eponymous southern Rhone village.

The wine’s sweetness will contribute additional layers of flavor flavor to the burnt-caramel ice cream and the pecan pie, without competing with the pie’s nuttyy sweetness. concentrated nutt DEMI-SEC CHAMPAGNE The majority of Champagne, or sparkling wine produced in the painstaking, in-bottle traditional in-bott le method from Champagne, France, is consumed dry. The immense variety of Thanksgiving desserts offered offered here is the bottle perfect reason to open a bott le of demi-sec, or semisweet Champagne.

Demi-sec’s elegant bubbles and sweetness accentuate many of these desserts, particularly baked-fruit pies and shortbreadbased desserts. A demi-sec would enliven the pear and cranberry tartlet’s concentrated sweet tartness, while flavors counterbalancing these contrasting fl avors texturally flakiness. with the tartlet’s crumbly fl akiness.

Place bowl over the pot of simmering water to create a bain-marie for cooking the custard. Turn heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula, until the custard thickens, approximately 5 minutes. Scrape the sides of the bowl while you’re stirring to prevent the custard from over-coagulating on the sides. Crème anglaise, the ice cream base, is done when it coats the back of a spoon nicely – a stage called nappe. (Test readiness by running a finger down the back of the spoon. The line should remain.)

Immediately strain the base into container and place in an ice bath to chill. (Don’t be alarmed if the base tastes too spicy; the flavors will mellow when frozen.) Mature base in the fridge for 12 to 24 hours. Then freeze base according to your ice cream maker’s instructions.

CAUGHT THE ICE CREAM BUG? There are so many great ways to flavor your ice cream base; what you do with it is entirely up to your imagination. The Red Hot Cinnamon can be turned into French vanilla bean by eliminating the spices and substituting one whole vanilla bean, split and scraped.

The burnt-caramel could be made even richer by adding a swirl of butterscotch. And just about any ice cream can be improved by stirring in cookie crumbles, candied nuts, marmalade or other goodies.

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*Safe + Secure Coverage Plan excludes tires. † No security deposit required. Monthly payment of $399, based on $32,025 MSRP of 2012 S60 T5 FWD. Includes destination charge. Lessee is responsible for excessive wear and mileage over 10,000 miles per year at $0.18/mile. **Starting MSRP $31,150. Excludes $675 of destination charge. Finance for 48 months at $21 per month per $1,000 financed. †‡No security deposit required. Monthly payment of $399, based on $33,775 MSRP of 2012 XC60 3.2 FWD, includes destination charge. Lessee is responsible for excessive wear and mileage over 10,000 miles/year at $0.18 / mile. ***Starting at MSRP $32,900. Excludes $675 destination charge. Finance for 72 months at $15 per month per $1,000 financed. Take new retail delivery from retailer stock between October 1, 2011 and November 30, 2011. Please visit www.volvocars.com/us/safeandsecure or your local Volvo retailer for details on the Volvo Safe + Secure Coverage Plan and for further details specific to leased vehicles. Car shown with optional equipment. Advanced lease payment and financing excludes taxes, title, and registration fees and are available for qualified customers through U.S. Bank. Payments may vary as retailer determines price. Offers available at participating retailers. See retailer for details.

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WRITTEN BY Andrew Mark Veety PHOTOGRAPHY BY Michael Jacob SHOT ON LOCATION AT The City Diner

Let’s face it. Some years there are as many reasons to dine out on Thanksgiving as there are to stay in. No matter what those reasons are, St. Louis has a bounty of options for breaking bread on Turkey Day with parties small or large. We’ve canvassed the town for a handful of standouts: familystyle offerings of traditional Thanksgiving fare, fine dining for a quiet night out, stocked buffets offering a little something for everyone and what might be the hottest – and hardest to score – seat in town, a place setting at a local underground restaurant’s Thanksgiving feast.

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The City Diner If you’re dining alone or in a small group, the hopping South Grand mainstay doesn’t skip a beat or betray its classic diner roots on the holiday. This year, The City Diner celebrates its 20th Thanksgiving with customers new and old. Its menu centers around traditional favorites: sliced roasted turkey with stuffing, cranberry sauce, vegetable medley, garlic mashed potatoes with gravy, sweet potatoes and pecan or pumpkin pie with fresh whipped cream. All-you-can-eat dishes are served by the plateful until you back away from the table for a nap on the nearest couch.

Reservations accepted. Served from 11am to 10pm. Adults $17.95, children under 10 $5.95. 3139 S. Grand Blvd., South Grand, 314.772.6100

Yia Yia’s Euro Bistro

Gallagher’s St. Louis’ pan-fried chicken afi aficionados cionados know all about Gallagher’s in Waterloo, Ill., less than an hour’s drive from Downtown. However, these folks may not think of Gallagher’s as a destination for Thanksgiving dinner.

The restaurant’s Southern-inspired menu includes holiday standards like roasted Tom turkey with cornbread and andouille dressing, mashed potatoes with gravy, buttered sweet corn, and sweet potatoes spiked with brown sugar and pecans. Dishes are served familystyle, so Gallagher’s feels like home, whether you sit at a cozy booth or a table set for a dozen people.

Experience the bounty of the season at this Chesterfield gem. The bistro offers casual dining and a unique blend of Mediterranean and American flavors. Even the pickiest eater in your party should have no problem heaping a perfect plate. Choose from a spread of 60 buffet items, including carved turkey, dressing and multiple preparations of in-season vegetables – in addition to salads, pastas and housemade desserts from the restaurant’s Sunday buffet menu.

Served from 11am to 4pm. Adults $25.99, children 5 to 12 $12.99, children under 5 free.

15601 Olive Blvd., Chesterfield, 636.537.9991

Reservations required. Two seatings.

Adults $28, children under 10 $12.95, children under 3 free. 114 W. Mill St., Waterloo, Ill., 618.939.9933

Save a turkey, eat more pig.

Your house or the Roadhouse.

Let us cater your Holiday Party.

Private room for up to 60 people.

Buffet or sit-down dinner.

Check out our website for our 11/11/11 feature, it could be your luckiest day.

314-968-0061

34 Old Orchard South, Webster Groves, MO Hwy61Roadhouse.com

Balaban’s wine cellar & tapas bar Gift a Memory from Balaban’s!

2011 Wine Spectator Restaurant Award of Excellence for the wine cellar & inexpensive pricing 2011 Recognition by St. Louis Magazine as a “Best New Restaurant” 1772 Clarkson Road at Baxter I Chesterfield, MO 63017 P 636.449.6700 I www.balabanswine.com I www.selectwineonline.com

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Harvest

entre: underground

Harvest lives up to its name with a fourcourse Thanksgiving meal planned around locally sourced and seasonal ingredients, thoughtfully prepared to highlight the flavors of the holiday. The restaurant’s current seasonal menu provides a few hints as to what’s coming: housemade charcuterie, artisan breads, vegetable bisques and roasted chicken breast with potatoes and green bean-mushroom casserole. If you want to give the cook in your life Thanksgiving night off, this nationally recognized eatery is the perfect place to go.

For a new tradition, go entre: underground. Chef John Perkins’ take onThanksgiving feasting is planned for the evenings of Nov. 19 and 20.

Now in its third year, entre: underground is a movable (and wildly popular) dining event with a themed location and menu. Diners discover event details just hours before dinner begins.

Past meals include a playful take on green bean casserole, with locally foraged mushrooms and crisp onions; ham smoked with hay; and a ballotine of turkey and duck. You must register during the first week of November to receive details and pricing. When asked about this year’s meal, Perkins replied, “I don’t want to say too much, but I’ll tell you that it will involve one of the new microbreweries in town, perhaps even including a special ‘entre’ beer.”

Reservations recommended. Served from 3:30 to 8pm. $60. 1059 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights, 314.645.3522

entrestl.com

Tenderloin Tuesdays

Any steak from our regular menu with two sides only $15 114 W. Mill St., Waterloo, IL 62298 618.939.9933 www.gallagherswaterloo.com

4th Annual Holiday Open House

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Let us enchant you with all of the frills, flourishes, trimmings & trappings of a Lavender Holiday. Sip lavender, mulled wine & nibble on a bounty of lavender sweets while shopping for that perfect gift & tree trimming must-have.

We'll have great ideas for quick & easy holiday entertaining with our gourmet foods.

Snowflake Savings from 5 to 15%

3 Winding Brook Estate Drive, Eureka, Missouri 63025

636-575-5572 www.WindingBrookEstate.com

Inspired Food Culture

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CLASSIFIEDS

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

ACCOUNTING/TAXES

CLEANING SERVICES

HEALTHCARE SERVICES

PAINTING

SERVICES

GET ORGANIZED FOR 2012 Experienced in Personal, Professional Accounting & Bookkeeping Perfect for small businesses or personal bookkeeping. Quickbooks knowledgeable. Affordable rates.

J. Graves Exterior Cleaning LLC Roof Cleaning, Gutter Cleaning, Pressure Washing, Window Washing Fully Insured & Free Estimates Justin (314) 962-4220 www.jgravesexteriorcleaning.com

COLLEGE DEGREED CAREGIVERS provide care and companionship.

Why accept less? A competitively priced option. Care manager/clinical staff available. AAA screened/bonded.

Preferred choice since 1987.

StaffLink/Gretchen 314-477-3434

MOUNTJOY DESIGNS

by Carey Johnson, Certified in Faux Finishing Techniques

by Decorating Masters Institute.

Call 314-966-6346 www.mountjoydesigns.net

ALLEN'S HAULING SERVICE 15, 20 and 30 Yard Trash Containers.

Hauling Service.

No Job Too Big Or Small.

Any Type of Trash Removal.

314-621-0481 or 581-7274

I BUY RUNNING USED CARS Get More Money Then A Tax Deduction Cash Paid On The Spot Call Sam 314-302-2008

PRECISION REMODELING Since 1990 - Interior & Exterior We Are Here For All Your Home Improvement Needs & Repairs.

Free Estimates! Fully Insured.

Call Bob (314) 799-4633 or Jim (314) 799-4630

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES

Outdoors Solutions

Landscape Design & Installation, Retaining Walls, Paver Patios.

Drainage & Pruning

NATHAN'S FAMOUS HOT-DOGS Planning a Tailgate, Business Event, a Birthday, Anniversary, Retirement, or Just A Party. Have General Sherman's Hot-dogs Cater It! (314) 609-5024 generalshermanshotdogs@gmail.com

636-296-5050 Free Estimate

Home Helpers is your #1 source affordable, dependable care for all ages by compassionate caregivers.

CLEANING SERVICES

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RN Supervised • Bathing/Personal Care • Meal Preparation •

Housekeeping • Errands • Recuperative Care

AERATION, SEEDING & RELIABLE LAWN MOWING Total Lawn Treatments and Lawn Maintenance. West County.

636-530-1998 or 314-591-2787 Calls Returned Promptly SHEARN LANDSCAPING

•

On Call 24/7 Insured/Bonded and Carefully Screened

314.961.1002 636.391.0000

www.homehelpersstl.com

NOVEMBER 2011

LAKE MICHIGAN Waterfront Homes for Sale Go To www.Andreacrossman.com or Call 616-355-6387 Andrea Crossman



Serving St. Louis for over 40 years Mortar Color Matching Brick Cleaning Bricklaying Stone Work Power Washing Caulking Waterproofing & Sealing

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Written Guarantee No Job Too Small Credit Cards Accepted Insured DAN MILBOURN

CONSTRUCTION INC.

314-772-0190 314-771-7622 FAX

RUGS

CATERERS / EVENT PLANNING

No Time to Shop?

Shop the Classified Ads First.

REAL ESTATE FOR SALE

ALL TYPES TUCKPOINTING

LAWN & GARDEN

PET FRANCHISE Owners of 2 Prime Kennel Franchise Territories. For Detailed Information and Locations of Businesses. parriottlynne@rocketmail.com

TWO LADIES & A BUCKET Two Are Better Than One! Deep & Thorough Cleaning Service Please Contact Susie Duncan at: 314-229-1736 www.twoandabucket.com

LADUE SCHOOLS Newly Remodeled Charming, 3BR, 1BA, Two Car Garage. Non Smoking. Fully Furnished, $1500 Available September 20.

314-993-5472

TUCKPOINTING

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HEALTHCARE SERVICES

STEVE GRESS TUCKPOINTING Solids and Spot Tuckpointing with Color Match. Stone Basement Restoration.....and More.

Prompt Free Estimates. Insured.

314-645-8991 or 636-947-2133 Member BBB MC/Visa Accepted

REAL ESTATE FOR RENT

(636) 274-1378 Insured



AUTOMOBILE & MOTORCYCLE STORAGE The Finest in Climate Controlled Storage Close to Clayton and Ladue 314-993-1330 or Kevin@stlouiscarmuseum.com

KEN'S HANDYMAN SERVICE Carpentry, Electrical, Plumbing, Painting, Gutter Cleaning and Hauling. Over 25 Yrs. Exp. Ref's. Insured.

Call Ken 314-567-6900

•Stone Retaining Walls •Stump Grinding •Bucket Truck Service

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AUTOMOTIVE

HANDYMAN SERVICES

WOOD FLOOR REFINISHING 25-yr. Old Fully Insured Company.

Sanding, Refinishing, Repairs, New Installation. Free Estimates.

PROFESSIONAL FLOORS OF ST. LOUIS 314-843-4348 www.profloorstl.com

THE WELL BEHAVED PET....

For all your home training needs.

New Puppy, Puppy Mill Rescue Dogs or Behavioral Problems.

Call me, I can help.

Laura @ 636-456-9993

GILLS

TREE SERVICE

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ACCOUNTS OUT OF BALANCE? QuickBooks help for small businesses.

18 years banking experience, 10 years QuickBooks experience.

No job too small.

Jane 314-680-2929

HOME IMPROVEMENT

PET SERVICES

TREES TRIMMED & REMOVED

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CPA FIRM FOR SMALL BUSINESSES Affordable Accounting, Tax, Payroll & Guidance Solutions.

Call Tom at 314-448-4264 or Email: tomdunncpa.com

TREES

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VISITING ANGELS 24/7 Companion Care for Seniors.

Personal Care, Meal Prep, Light Housekeeping & Peace of Mind.

314-569-9890

JC PAINTS Interior/Exterior Painting Reliable, Clean & Reasonable.

Insured.

Call John for a free estimate 314-703-2794

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Mary Kraemer 314.801.1326 mary@mk-accounting.com

FLOORING/TILE

PAINTING PAINTER/PROFESSIONAL 26 Years of Experience.

Interior/Exterior Painting.

Deck, Dry Wall Repair, Wallpaper Removal. Free Estimates & Insured.

314-567-7957 or 314-629-7852

FRENCHTOWN RUG CLEANING ORIENTAL/AREA RUGS FREE PICK UP & DELIVERY (636) 949-0753 www.frenchtownrugcleaning.com

SERVICES $ CASH 4 OLD STUFF $ ————Light Hauling———— We Cleanup, Haul Away and/or purchase: Garage, Estate and Moving Sales!

Also, Warehouse, Business & Storage Locker Leftovers!

FAY FURNITURE 618-271-8200 AM BRIAN'S HAULING "U Name & We Haul It" 7 Days a Week - Same Day Appliances, Brush, Clean Outs, Demo, Basement & Garage, Etc. Brian 314-740-1659

Chimney & Complete Houses, Spot Tuckpointing with Color Match.

Brick & Stone Repair. Flagstone & Patio Repair. Basement Waterproofing. Caulking, Silicon Waterproofing.

Powerwashing. Prompt Free Est. Fully Insured.

314-645-8991 or 636-947-2133 Member of BBB MC or Visa Accepted

TUCKPOINTING Caulking, Waterproofing, Spot or Solid. Chimneys, Walls, Patios.

Do Own Work. No Job Too Small.

10% Off Seniors.

38 Years in Business.

Licensed, Insured & Free Est.

Milbourn 314-484-1548 MC and Visa Accepted.

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...and a whole lot more.

7811 Clayton Rd. • 314-726-2220

(3 Blks. East of Brentwood)

Great Window of Opportunity to Enhance your Financial Freedom ©0& 5 È d $j dj +l (d ( d05j ]0 2 + (j) d $j b5.+0$jl 2l +j ž o_ l0Ì2 (0 2j + db)(0+bo ]j$j])ò Mh È0&Õ+j (b+jl 0h žjb2f a&)( 20(dj+ 2&5žj+ ( 02j 0h (dj ‹bf ‹ 2_)÷ fb$j &) o ]]a ˆ055j+ob ] ‹ 2_ b) ]0o ]]Èô0Ì2jl ˆ055&2b(È ‹ 2_ Ìdj+j j$j+Èž0lÈ _20Ì) È0&+ 2 5ja

Your Financial Oasis™ TUCKPOINTING

All Tuck Pointing Basement Work Chimney Repair Painting Carpentry Repair Caulking Step Repair Foundation Roofing New/Repair Waterproofing All Work Guaranteed DON 314-865-0558 A+ Rating with B.B.B.

VACATION RENTALS GULF COAST HOUSE OR CONDO Carillon Beach, FL, Destin Area 3BR, 3BA, Beach House or Condo.

Carillon has 3 pools, tennis courts and so much more! Avail. thru 2011.

Call Dave at 314-922-8344 Great Rates.

For Pictures Please Visit www.vrbo.com/148365 or /127089 No Time to Shop?

Shop the Classified Ads First.

SELL IT FAST! CALL (800) 365-0820 ext. 6666

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VACATION RENTALS REGENTS PARK LONDON Modern 2 Bedroom Apartment.

Convenient for Museums, Shopping, Theater. Wireless Internet Access.

Highly Recommended.

Call 314-569-2009

WANTED COLLECTOR WISHES TO PURCHASE Gun Collections â Old and New Antiques of Any Type Fishing Tackle Call Steve Lapin 314-571-9427 Suburban Journals Classifieds Toll Free (800) 365-0820 ext. 6666

WANTED

Dbod j] DjÈj+) D0+(f fj ‹ 2_j+ ˆ055j+ob ] ‹ 2_ 0h›oj¾ þËÐÉü ÍïÇôÁÍÇË

WANTED

WANTED

CHINESE ANTIQUES I AM BUYING IVORY - JADE - VASES AND JARS ART - HANGING SCROLLS CLOISONNE - RARE PIECES PLEASE CALL FOR APPOINTMENT LADUE LOCATION 314-503-4847 GUNS WANTED Licensed Federal Firearms Dealer Top Price Paid ï Any Condition YOU COME TO US OR WE'LL COME TO YOU 636-233-4544 Ask For MARK

GUNS WANTED Licensed Federal Firearms Dealer Top Price Paid ï Any Condition YOU COME TO US OR WE'LL COME TO YOU 636-233-4544 Ask For MARK I BUY POSTCARDS! Stereoviews, Old Photographs, Documents, Letterheads, Movie Photos, Advertising, World's Fair, Railroad, Military, Political, Nautical & More.

Mike 314-524-9400 No Time to Shop?

Shop the Classified Ads First.

Inspired Food Culture

NOVEMBER 2011

73

puLL up a chair

Three designers select tall tables to pair with this lowprice stool:

rig BarSTooL written by Erin Callier

Portable and well priced, this adjustable-height barstool is reminiscent of a casual painter’s stool, but it offers a modern perspective that elevates the look of any counter or table.

Clean lines and sustainable mango wood, paired with glossy-red accents, make this seat something we just want to gobble up.

Sienna BiSTRo TaBle

$149; CB2, cb2.com

“the dual finishes on this traditional table coordinate perfectly with the contrasting finishes of the rig barstool. this combo could be used in a variety of settings. it would be right at home in a small kitchen, hearth room or game room.”

Diane Fogerty, Savvy Surroundings $1,997; Savvy Surroundings, 9753 Clayton Road, Ladue, savvysurroundingsdesign.com

Riva BaR TaBle

“i love how the rig barstool has a warm, contemporary aesthetic and an unexpected pop of red. Pairing it with a more sophisticated walnut bar table with polished-steel legs elevates its style quotient.”

Kimberly Reuther, K Designs $698; Atom Designs, atom-designs.com

STilT CounTeR TaBle

“the height of the Stilt Counter table would accommodate the rig barstool very well from a functional standpoint. the glass top provides a lightweight look, in contrast to the chunkiness of the stool. Also, the leatherette legs of the table are a nod to sustainability, while maintaining a high-end look.”

Carla Hunigan, St. Louis Loft Style $540; St. Louis Loft Style, stlloftstyle.com

74

feastSTL.com

NOVEMBER 2011

Missouri's #1 Automotive Group There Can Only Be One #1 Source, bureau of Missouri Automotive registration 2010.

MISSOURI'S #1 INFINITI RETAILER* WITH MISSOURI'S LARGEST INVENTORY

G25 SEDAN, G37 SEDAN, G37 COUPE, G37 CONVERTIBLE, EX35, FX35, FX50, M37, M56, QX56

1.9

%

APR AVAILABLE

2011 INFINITI QX56 "WHERE PRICE SELLS CARS"

INFINITI West County

SALES - SERVICE - PARTS - COLLISION REPAIR

15736 Manchester at Clarkson Rd. • (636) 391-9400 • 800-367-2289 www.BommaritoInfiniti.com *Based On 2010 Sales Summary Infiniti Motor Division, Nissan North America

Introducing Calphalon Contemporary Nonstick-Bronze Anodized Edition The season’s newest cookware features a beautiful bronze anodized exterior made to last a lifetime.

Multi-layer nonstick for lasting release. Heavy-gauge, hard-anodized aluminum heats evenly. Stay-cool handles. Oven-safe to 450˚F. The 10-pc. set includes 1.5 qt. & 2.5 qt. covered saucepans, 3 qt. covered saute pan, 8 qt. covered stockpot, 8” & 10” omelette pans, 399.95.

Spend $299 or more on any regular-price Calphalon cookware and receive the 7-pc. mixed utensil set, a $50 value, as your bonus.

Spend $399 or more on any regular-price Calphalon cookware and receive the 7-pc. utensil set plus the 12” Unison nonstick Everyday pan, a $170 value, as your double bonus.

Call 1-800-345-5273 to find a Dillard’s near you.