April 2012 FEAST Magazine

the lou’s booze

pan-asian perspectives

extreme ice cream

A SPIRITED REVIVAL

HOT POTS

I SCREAM CAKES

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

feastSTL.com | APRIL 2012 | FREE

St. Louis Sizzles

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You can trust that Certified Angus Beef is always abundantly flavorful, incredibly tender and naturally juicy.

No other grocery store offers this type of premium beef.

Celebrate grilling season with the best beef you can buy!

Photo credit: Certified Angus Beef LLC ©2012 Schnucks

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WE’VE INCREASED OUR INTERNET SPEEDS AGAIN. Not only have we increased our download speeds, but for a limited time you can get Charter Internet Express at the special price of $19.99 per month for 12 mos. when bundled.

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Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

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Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

APRIL 2012

from the staff

| 10 |

feaststl.com

What’s online this month.

| 12 |

from the PUBLISHER

Our city’s culinary diversity.

| 14 | FEAST FAVES

Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis.

COLUMNS

| 28 |

my stuff

Dig into the flavors of Salt with chef and owner Wes Johnson.

| 31 |

gadget a-go-go

We put five potato ricers to the test.

| 32 | ON THE SHELF

New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 34 |

mystery shopper

Buy it and try it: caper berries.

| 36 | TECH SCHOOL

Salt-cure your own gravlax this Easter.

| 38 |

how to

Mastering the chopsticks.

| 42 | EASY EATS

Oven-fried chicken puts a healthy spin on a home-style favorite.

| 82 |

meet & greet

I Scream Cakes owner Kerry Soraci takes ice cream to the extreme.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY of sichuan-style sole fish fillet and vermicelli (P. 76)

BY Jonathan Gayman Table of contents photography BY

Jennifer Silverberg

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APRIL 2012

70

HOt Pots

a revival of

54

spirits

QUICK 62 BREADS MODERN

44

spirited cooking Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

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Magazine Publisher and Editor, Catherine Neville Managing Editor, Brandi Wills Online Editor, Kristin Brashares Art Director, Lisa Triefenbach Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editors/Proofreaders Jill Pfeiffer, Andrea Mongler Contributing Writers Christy Augustin, Brandon Chuang, Russ Carr, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pat Eby, Chad Michael George, Jennifer Johnson, Angela Ortmann, Matt Seiter, Michael Sweeney, Andrew Mark Veety, Cassy Vires Contributing Photographers Jonathan Gayman, Tuan Lee, Laura Ann Miller, Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg, Corey Woodruff Contributing Videographer Hannah Radcliff Contributing Illustrator Derek Bauman

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APRIL 2012

Volume 3

| Issue 4 | April 2012

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Kelly Klein, 314.340.8562 kklein@stltoday.com Editorial Comments editor@feastSTL.com Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright Š 2010-2012 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC A Lee Enterprises Company

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APRIL 2012

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ONLINE CONTENT

www.feastSTL.com

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

The Feed

Online Exclusives

This Month’s Feast

Watch & Listen

Feast Events

Recipes

Photography BY corey woodruff

ONLINE COLUMNS Time for tea! Our Dinner & A Show column brings you inspired pairings all month long, including Craft Alliance’s Hot Tea exhibit and the London Tea Room (pictured). Photography by j. pollack photography

ONLINE FEATURES Special series! This month, we profile St. Louisans who shape the way children in our community eat. First up: The Soulard School’s culinary arts instructor Mary Waskow exposes students to hands-on experiences, such as this field trip to the environmentally sustainable Black Bear Bakery.

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CONNECT WITH US

Connect with us at facebook.com/feastSTL Follow us at twitter.com/feastmag

Celebrate Easter at Crown Candy Kitchen An Easter Tradition - We've Been Doing It For Almost 100 Years!

• • • •

Over 50 styles of SOLID chocolate Easter Bunnies all hand poured here.

Home of the traditional Easter Monkey (Comes boxed with his story).

Marshmallow, peanut butter and assorted cream eggs.

Crown Candy Heavenly Hash Baskets that are hand made with individual marshmallows covered in rich chocolate and pecans.

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Angel Roll (picture) Inside: shrimp, avocado, asparagus, no rice, and wrapped with soy paper. Outside: crab salad (lightly spicy) Hawaiian Roll Inside: Asian pear, orange, mango, cucumber, carrot, lettuce wrapped with soy paper and served with mango sauce.

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Don't miss "The Dapper Flappers" Show Ends April 29th

It's the roaring Twenties, the era of wonderful nonsense. A ruthless gang of female bootleggers, The Dapper Flappers, have taken the city of St. Louis by storm. Norma Lee Vicious, leader of The Dapper Flappers is found murdered in the Bissell Mansion wine cellar.

Join F.B.I. Agent, Elliot Mess and Miss Betty Bustem as they lead us through a maze of legal maneuvering, political intrigue, mob justice, and party passion to find our killer.

This interactive murder is served with a 4-course meal to DIE for.

Bring in this ad for $10.00 off per person * Valid thru April, 2012 Not valid for groups.

4426 Randall Pl. • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • www.bissellmansion.com Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

PS

FEAST EVENTS

Feast Your Eyes Sat., April 7, 12:30pm Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis

T

This program invites you into the museum for a tasting prepared in response to the exhibitions and paired with local wine and cocktails.

L’Ecole Academy Date-Night French Class Fri., April 13, 6 to 9pm

his issue reflects how wonderfully broad the St. Louis culinary scene is.

That gorgeous hot pot on the cover can be found at Lu Lu Seafood Restaurant on Olive Blvd., and is just one of the communal soups Andrew Mark Veety discovered. Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Vietnamese … his pan-Asian look at this traditional dish (p. 70) spans a number of cultures, and each variation can be enjoyed right here. Brandon Chuang introduces you to the people behind the recent surge in craft distilling (p. 54). Yes, small-batch rums, whiskeys, gins and vodkas are all being made in our region and A Revival of Spirits takes you inside this budding industry. Mediterranean cuisine in The Loop, artisan (and artistic) ice cream cakes on Cherokee, straight up diner fare on Broadway … you can satisfy just about any culinary desire in the Gateway City.

Which brings me to the FEAST 50. Each August, we celebrate what makes St. Louis so delicious according to you, our readers. This isn’t a poll; there’s no ballot or form to fill out. Just send an email to editor@feastSTL.com telling us what you love most about food in our region.

It can be an anecdote, an amazing dish, your favorite restaurant, a great server, a place you loved as a kid, even a recipe that reminds you of home. If it has to do with St. Louis food, it’s fair game. We look forward to hearing from you!

Until next time,

$75 per person, lecoleacademy.com or 314.264.1999

Partner up and make a romantic French meal including escargot, duck with lavender and crème brûlée.

Sharing is Pairing Thu., April 19, 6 to 9pm; The Moto Museum $75, metrotheatercompany.org

This celebration, benefitting Metro Theater Co., will feature culinary delights from top St. Louis chefs. Dishes will be paired with wines from small-production Italian vineyards.

Wine Tasting Thu., April 19, 6 to 7pm; Robust RSVP to rsvp@stlwinegirl.com

Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a food and wine tasting at Robust.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., April 25, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $45, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Get hands-on and make the oven-fried chicken on p. 42.

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Thu., April 26, 6pm; Blood & Sand RSVP to editor@feastSTL.com

Harry’s Bar: The Original celebrates the legendary watering hole’s 100th anniversary.

Join us to discuss the book and enjoy complimentary hors d’oeuvres and cocktails designed by TJ Vytlacil. Purchase the book from Left Bank Books and receive 20 percent off.

19th Annual Dining Out For Life Thu. April 26

Grab your family and friends and make plans to have breakfast, lunch, dinner, coffee, cocktails and more at any participating Dining Out For Life restaurant, where at least 25 percent of your check will be donated to support the work of Saint Louis Effort for AIDS. See p. 40 for a list of participating restaurants and reservation information.

Maplewood Coffee Crawl Sat., April 28, 9am to noon

Catherine Neville

RSVP to rsvp@cityofmaplewood.com

Enjoy a morning of coffee demonstrations, goodies and a chance to meet some of the region’s best roasters.

Oceania Luxury Culinary Cruise Aug. 3 to 13, from $3,799 per person

feedback?

catherine@feaststl.com 12

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APRIL 2012

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Join publisher Catherine Neville on a 10-day luxury cruise from Istanbul to Venice with ports of call ranging from Ephesus to Athens.

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APRIL 2012

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FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

Nico 314.727.0200

The newest entrant to The Loop’s eclectic mix is Nico, a relaxed Mediterranean restaurant brought to you by Franco’s Tom Schmidt. Rustic dishes featuring flavors from Spain, Italy, Morocco and France tempt diners strolling Delmar Boulevard, who can snag a spot on the bustling sidewalk or enjoy their meal in the warm, wood-enhanced interior designed by Space Architectural Design Studio. Salt cod makes an appearance on the starter list in hot, crisp croquettes that are drizzled with aïoli. Flavorful tartines (open-faced sandwiches) are a good choice for a light supper – we suggest the white anchovy, basil and tomato. If you’re seeking something more substantial, Nico’s lamb with couscous and harissa or the beef daube with puff pastry – essentially a wonderful pot roast – will satisfy. Sweet endings are light and classic – madeleines are served with stewed fruit, flan is given a chocolate accent and crêpes are filled with strawberry-mascarpone mousse. Franco’s “little brother” is a welcome addition to the family.

6525 Delmar Blvd., The Loop nicostl.com

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APRIL 2012

– C.N.

PHOTOGRAPHy by Corey Woodruff

club med

The Loop

FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | what we’re dRinking

Alsatian Gewurztraminer written by Jennifer Johnson

Located in northeast France between the Vosges Mountains and the Rhine River, Alsace has a cool continental climate and dry summer days – supported by the Vosges’ protective rain-shadow effect – which yield aromatic, typically dry and relatively full-bodied whites with a telltale minerality and vivid varietal expressiveness. Gewurztraminer’s heady spicy, floral and tropical-fruit profile; lower acidity; and higher alcohol level provide richness on the palate. Alsatian whites are a best-kept secret by oenophiles, revered for their food compatibility, longevity and value-driven prices. Alsatian Gewurztraminer pairs well with spicy Asian dishes, roasted duck and strong cheeses as well as the fish and pork dishes traditionally served at spring holiday gatherings.

Gustave Lorentz Gewurztraminer Réserve 2009

Alsace, France

This wine delivers rich tropical fruits on the palate marked by lychees and mangos with underlying notes of petrol and rose water and a slightly sweet zest-of-lime crispness on the finish. Pair with Creole chicken, ham fried rice, poached salmon with cucumber raita or Valdeon cheese. $21.99; Randall’s Wines & Spirits, 1910 S. Jefferson Ave., Benton Park, shoprandalls.com

Helfrich Gewurztraminer 2008

Alsace, France

There is an elegant balance to this Gewurztraminer’s transition from pink grapefruit and allspice aromas to kumquat preserves and mangoes on the palate, with relatively subdued floral nuances. This semidry wine makes a splendid pair with a honey-glazed and apricot-stuffed pork shoulder, coriander-crusted duck breast, or tropical fruit cobbler with coconut gelato. $12.99; Grapevine Wines, 309 S. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, grapevinewinesandcheese.com

A St. Louis-based wine and food enthusiast, Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist, and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine.

Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

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FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

fast and fresh in clayton Many of us rush through our workday lunch, stomaching fatty processed food or nuking a frozen dinner. Enter Crushed Red, a new fastcasual concept located in the heart of Clayton’s business district that offers food that’s fast, healthy and quite tasty. Place your order and then head down the salad line, where cooks make salads to order. Their mezzalunas are lightningquick and chop all ingredients together, so even your Welcome Back Cobber has the chicken, avocado, bacon, egg, blue cheese and tomato chopped in with the greens. The dressings are organic and paired perfectly with each salad, which vary from the Emerald Coast (shrimp, bacon, mushroom, cucumber and avocado with roasted red pepper dressing) to the Chipotle BBQ Chicken (pepper Jack cheese, roasted corn and ranch chicken dressed with chipotle barbecue sauce and tortilla strips). Crushed Red’s other specialty is hand-stretched wholegrain “pies” that cook in the time it takes you to make it to the cash register. Grilled pineapple, prosciutto and caramelized onion top the Big Island – and our springtime pick is the pie sporting blistered corn, a basil pesto and tender asparagus. Crushed Red isn’t just for lunch though – it is open for dinner and offers a small, but nice, selection of wine and beer. – C.N. 8007 Maryland Ave., Clayton crushed-red.com

Crushed Red 314.725.8007

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman

Clayton

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FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | FOOD STUFF

ICE CREAM TOPPINGS As splendid as ice cream is on its own, dressing it up with flavorful toppings just adds to the fun. These products put a twist on conventional ice cream accoutrements and are a delightful addition to any dish. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; B.W.

TRY IT ON: Strawberry ice cream

TRY IT ON: Honey ice cream

TRY IT ON: Coffee ice cream

| 1 | Dark chocolate pecan bark, $3 for 2 oz; Kakao Chocolate, multiple locations, kakaochocolate.com | 2 | Spiced nuts, $2 for 2.25 oz; Home Wine Kitchen, 7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, homewinekitchen.com | 3 | B.R. Cohn chocolate Cabernet sauce, $24.95 for 375 ml; Extra Virgin, An Olive Ovation, 142 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, extravirginoo.com PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

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FEAST FAVES

| whAT we’re drinking

Diki Diki Story and recipe by Matt Seiter

Believed to have been created at the Embassy Club in London in 1922, this concoction has a fanciful name that translates to “healthy and wealthy” in the Tibetan Sherpa language.

It features two ingredients that are somewhat rare and underused: Swedish punsch and Calvados. Swedish punsch is a rum-based liqueur, and Kronan Swedish punsch recently became the only brand available in St. Louis stores. Kronan’s version is a little viscous and fairly sweet, with notes of caramel and leather plus a hint of funkiness from the inclusion of Batavia arrack. Calvados, however, has been available for quite some time. Calvados is apple brandy made in a style similar to cognac or American whiskey. Apples and pears from the Normandy region of France are harvested, crushed, fermented and distilled. The distillate is then aged in barrels, where the fruit flavors meld with the woody characteristics of the barrels to create a pleasant sweet-tartness. The normal aging process is around two to five years, but some bottlings are aged longer. There are three brands to look for: Busnel, Boulard and Le Compte*. Busnel screams of barrel notes, hiding most of the fruit flavor and leading it to mix more like bourbon. Boulard is a walk through the orchard. It’s highly fruity and subtly sweet with just hints of the barrel.

Le Compte offers the best attributes of the previous two. It has Busnel’s strong presence of barrel on the palate with the enticing aroma of Boulard. In the Diki Diki, these two sweet spirits are balanced with bitter grapefruit juice for a fruitforward concoction that welcomes spring with every sip.

Diki Diki Serves | 1 |

Laura Ann Miller

1½ oz ¾ oz ½ oz 1 dash

Calvados, preferably Boulard fresh-squeezed Ruby Red grapefruit juice Kronan Swedish punsch simple syrup pear slices or lemon twist, for garnish

PHOTOGRAPHy by

| Preparation | Combine all ingredients except garnish with ice in a cocktail shaker and shake for 15 seconds. Fine-strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with pear slices or a lemon twist. * Le Compte is currently available to the St. Louis market online only.

BARTENDER KNOWLEDGE Reading Calvados Labels When shopping for Calvados, you’ll find two key bits of information on the label: the age designation and the AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) designation. Age designations are similar to those used for cognacs, with certain terms representing different aging times. The younger the age, the more fruit will shine through; the older, the more barrel notes you’ll taste. Fine, 3-Star and Originel designations indicate the Calvados was aged at least two years in French oak. Vieux indicates three years of aging in French oak. Vieux Reserve, VO and VSOP are for Calvados aged at least four years in French oak. And Hors d’Age, XO and Age Inconnu Calvados have been aged at least six years in French oak. The AOC designation – French certification for certain agricultural products, including wine and spirits – for Calvados refers to a few things: age minimums, process of distillation and where in Normandy the fruit is grown.

AOC Calvados have no prescribed distillation process, are mainly column-distilled and are aged at least two years in oak. They can be made anywhere in the Calvados region.

AOC Calvados Domfrontais are made from at least 30 percent pears, fermented for eight

weeks, column-distilled and aged for a minimum of three years. These tend to be rarer and a bit more astringent. AOC Pays d’Auge is a prestigious designation given to Calvados that undergo the dual process* and are fruit-fermented for six weeks, double-distilled and aged at least two years in oak.

Also look for Calvados Fermier, which is produced on a single farm from tree to bottle.

And Pommeau is an unaged Calvados right off the still that is blended with apple juice, aged 14 months in barrel and bottled at 34-proof. It’s a sweeter version that packs less of a punch but is easier on the wallet. * During dual process, the previous year’s cider is distilled to about 30 percent volume (called les petites eaux) in September using an alembic still. After the current harvest is made into cider, les petites eaux is redistilled to 70 percent volume in the alembic still.

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

19

FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | THE DISH

Contributor’s Pick

Corey Woodruff

St. Louis offers a wide variety of late-night dining options for the nocturnal crowd, and my favorite is far and away Billie’s Fine Foods, a hidden gem found a block from Soulard Farmers Market. I can’t count the number of times I’ve refueled on Billie’s classic diner fare in the wee hours after a night of music at Downtown’s blues clubs. I head there for The Heart Stopper – a slab of country-fried steak topped with bacon, a fried egg, American cheese, grilled onions and peppers, lettuce, tomato and mayo served between two slices of buttered Texas toast. Angioplasty optional. Like all Billie’s the food at this family-owned eatery, Fine Foods it’s delicious and served up with a 314.621.0848 smile, no matter what the hour. The Soulard reason it’s my go-to dish is that even on a menu that features a meatloaf omelet and pancakes stuffed with bacon or sausage and topped with eggs, The Heart Stopper is the most over-the-top thing available.

Check out Woodruff’s photography of newly opened Nico (p. 14) and the St. Louis distilling scene (p. 54) in this issue.

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PHOTOGRAPHy by

Corey Woodruff

Billie’s Fine Foods, 1802 S. Broadway, Soulard

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APRIL 2012

21

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FEAST FAVES

| shop-o-matic

Whipt Cream 636.532.0020

whip it good If you’re looking for a quick pick-me-up, we’ve got the place for you. From its sinfully sweet cakes and cupcakes to its bright and energetic décor, Whipt Cream never fails to make us giddy. Tucked inside the bustling shopping center at Long Road and Edison Avenue in Chesterfield, Whipt Cream churns out artistically designed custom cakes and cases full of spur-of-the-moment indulgences. Choose from the selection of almost-too-pretty-to-eat cupcakes, including standard flavors such as carrot cake, red velvet and turtle (milk chocolate cake and caramel buttercream topped with chocolate, pecans and sea salt), as well as seasonally inspired variations. The mini bites – two-bite cake balls, tarts, brownies and cheesecakes in a variety of flavors – are

Chesterfield

the perfect afternoon treat or can be ordered by the dozens to create a dessert bar for dinner parties or special events.

The open kitchen allows you to watch the cake artists bake moist and tender cakes and decorate them with the shop’s signature buttercream, an Italian-style, meringuebased version that’s impossibly light and airy with a subtle sweetness that allows its supremely buttery flavor to shine through. You may pop into Whipt Cream for a quick treat, but you’ll find it hard to leave.

– B.W.

143 Chesterfield Towne Center, Chesterfield whiptcream.com

Co-owner Pat Germain’s Top 3 Treats to Stop By and Try | 1 | The Caramel Mocha Latte cupcake is devil’s food cake filled with

|1|

|2|

|3|

housemade caramel, topped with coffee buttercream and chocolate coffee beans. This decadent shot in the arm is one of Whipt Cream’s most popular cupcakes. | 2 | The Key lime tarts are part of the shop’s mini bite selection and Germain’s personal favorite. These tasty PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller

two-biters are made with fresh lime juice and topped with a fondant lime wedge for a sweet-tart solution to your midday sugar craving. | 3 | The Vintage Vanilla cupcake marries Whipt Cream’s moist and flavorful classic vanilla cake with light and creamy vanilla buttercream for a pure and simple indulgence.

Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

23

×ÚÖ,ÓØÕ,###Ï 2019 S. Warson Road | Ladue Offered at $4,600,000

12 Warson Downs | Ladue Schools Offered at $1,995,000

228 Lancaster Drive | Clayton Offered at $1,799,000

For the connoisseur of life and taste.

16617 Caulks Creek Ridge | Wildwood Offered at $1,799,900

3406 Hawthorne Blvd. | Compton Heights Offered at $875,000

2 Grand Meridien Court | Wildwood Offered at $2,275,000

7489 Washington Avenue | University City Offered at $820,000

150 Carondelet Plaza #2101 | Clayton Offered at $1,575,000

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feastSTL.com

APRIL 2012

FEAST FAVES

| what we’re buying

Baking Accessories |1|

Have even more fun baking the delicious treats from Modern Quick Breads (p. 62) with these brightly colored and stylish goods. – B.W.

|2|

|3|

|4|

|5|

|6|

| 1 | Spatulas, $8 for a set of four; Pier 1 Imports, multiple locations, pier1.com | 2 | Rectangular biscuit tins, $9 to $16 each; West Elm, westelm. com | 3 | A.J. Metissage mixing bowls, $60 to $100 each; Craft Alliance, 6640 Delmar Blvd., The Loop, craftalliance.org | 4 | Round yellow metal canisters; $14.95 to $21.95 each; Pier 1 Imports | 5 | Minerva and Cahoots aprons, $36 each; Phoenix Rising, 6331 Delmar Blvd., The Loop, shopphoenixrising. com | 6 | Marcato biscuit maker, $50; Winslow’s Home, 7213 Delmar Blvd., University City, winslowshome.com

Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

25

2012 CHEVROLET

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Surround sound. Full-house generator. 4BD/6BA/5,000+SF Total Living Area. Possible 5th BR, on Main. 1.0 acre

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Truly a home designed for entertaining. Scan the QR code on this page with your smart phone to view more photos.

Contact Susan Brewer of Susan Brewer Service First Real Estate to arrange for a private tour. 314.540.0734 or Susan@SusanBrewer.com.

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This 2 bed & 2.5 bath residence has an open floor plan with rich Brazilian cherry floors, crown moldings, gas fireplace, built-in bookshelves, and a lovely study. The master suite features 2 walkin closets and the en-suite bath has a jet tub, double sinks, walk-in shower, heated floor and stone counters. MLS#:12004306

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APRIL 2012

27

MY STUFF

Wes Johnson

Chef/owner, Salt Restaurant written by Catherine Neville

What are you working on for spring at Salt? We are working on a few rabbit dishes and using the vegetables from the plots around the property … and we’re bringing back the pork steak from last summer. What ingredients or techniques are you excited about right now? Mustard in its many forms is on the top of my list. How do you see the city’s food changing? Lots of great talent coming up. It just raises the bar for everyone. Our guests are becoming better educated that a great meal is not just the biggest pile of food but a flavorful, well-thought-out dish. When you’re off the clock, how do you spend your time? It’s hard to really be off the clock. When I go out, I’m always measuring service and quality of food. If I’m in the city, I always go to work. I don’t sleep much, so I work at my computer late at night.

I write, research and read about what’s going on in the business. And I love old cookbooks, especially those spiral-bound church cookbooks from the ’60s and ’70s. I also watch a ridiculous number of movies. Tell us what it was like to be on The Today Show. Great experience. The staff made me feel like the king of the world.

They were so organized and nice, I was at ease the minute I walked in the door. Favorite junk food? Donuts. The best start to any day is a World’s Fair donut and the hottest cup of coffee in the world. Vanilla or chocolate? Vanilla. I feel it’s more versatile. Coffee or tea? I drink tea every day. Shameless plug for the Naughty Vicar at The London Tea Room around the corner form my loft. Favorite end-of-night drink? Glass of Titos vodka on the rocks, no straw, no fruit. If you had to eat just one type of cuisine for the rest of your life, what would it be and why? Southern. As a true American boy, I always want to think about where I’m from, and it will always remind me of my father. What would be your last meal?

Grilled Havarti cheese on sourdough with tomato soup. True comfort.

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APRIL 2012

Salt Restaurant 4356 Lindell Blvd.

Central West End 314.932.5787 enjoysalt.com Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Wes Johnson.

PHOTOGRAPHY By Jonathan Gayman

Wes Johnson’s tagline for Salt – Simple.

Essential. – is an accurate reflection of his approach to food. “I like a few flavors in each dish,” says Johnson. “That doesn’t mean it’s not hard work, just sometimes chefs add things that don’t really improve a dish [and] just put things in the pot because it’s cool.” This restraint comes after years of experience. Johnson was raised in southwest Missouri on a small family farm and began cooking when he was 11. He moved to St. Louis just five years ago after a run in a number of Seattle kitchens (including a stint in research and development at an ad agency).

Salt is on the James Beard Award semifinalist list for best new restaurant this year, so it’s just become even more difficult to score a seat at this Central West End favorite.

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Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

29

FARNSWORTH STORAGE BED SUITE

This classic bedroom is finished in a deep, inky black stain with a rich luster that accents the natural wood grain. The dramatic sleigh bed creates a focal point, and the underbed storage unit provides welcome additional storage.

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314-892-9002

314-388-0200

618-462-9770

Daily 10-8 Sunday 12-5

gadget a-go-go

Put to the test

POTATO

RICERS

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|5|

written by Pat Eby

Photography by Laura Ann Miller

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Cuisipro Potato Ricer

Sur La Table Potato Ricer

OXO Adjustable Potato Ricer

Chef’n Potato Ricer

OXO Good Grips Potato Ricer

PROS

PROS

PROS

PROS

PROS

This little ricer isn’t fancy, but it’s light and pulls down easily. The basket holds enough for one good-sized serving.

Potatoes, carrots and apples all worked well. A simple tool; great for cooking for one or two people.

A huge, easy-loading ricer that holds nearly 2 cups of potatoes. They spurted with ease from holes covering all sides of a triangular basket and fell fluffy into the pot. Easy action to depress the plunger. Good for ricing cooked carrots and pressing water from thawed frozen spinach. This tool comes apart, plunger from basket, for a fast and thorough cleanup.

A simple twist of the ring at the bottom of this tool creates large, medium or fine settings for ricing.

The hopper is roomy, and the plunger action is quick and smooth. Food didn’t creep up the sides and out the top of the hopper either.

The handles use a geared ratchet for the easiest-ever pull-down. Materials are top-notch too, with a stainless steel hopper and plunger and soft nylon grips and housing. The hopper pushes out of the housing for cleanup; plus it’s top-rack dishwasher-safe.

The fluff factor on the potatoes ran especially high with this tool.

OXO uses all stainless steel for this ricer – not just for the hopper and plunger but for the arms as well. Nice touch. It features a soft, nonslip knob designed to rest on pans and bowls and a hanging hole for storage.

CONS

It takes some major muscle to pull the plunger away from the hopper on the first few uses, making this ricer difficult to load. It’s made of tin over carbon steel, so it must be cleaned carefully without abrasives and dried completely to prevent rust. $19.95; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, kitchenconservatory.com

CONS

It’s massive. Some food sticks to the underside of the plunger and must be scraped off. $29.95; Sur La Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com

CONS

The bottom ring that holds the three cutting screens on this ricer was designed to lift off for easy cleaning.

It never worked – not even once. The arrow lined up perfectly with the notch, but the ring refused to budge.

No easy cleanup here.

CONS

Not a one. This is a really great tool. $24.95; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com

CONS

A hard squeeze from beginning to end; you need muscle to work this model.

The handles have a nonslip inset, but they’re not so soft. They don’t cushion the grip. $24.99; Bed Bath & Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com

$29.95; Williams-Sonoma, multiple locations, williams-sonoma.com

C h ec

k pa g o u t e

42!

W h at to l oo k for : Capabilities: A good ricer delivers fluffy shreds without rupturing the starch granules in potatoes. Making gnocchi goes faster with a ricer, and dumplings end up with a smoother texture. You can mash cooked vegetables and fruits and squeeze water from greens, but a food mill or a food processor will work just as well for these tasks.

Choose a ricer if you love light, creamy mashed potatoes.

Overall size: Even a small potato ricer is big, bulky and heavy, so find one that fits your cabinet space. Handle the ricer before you buy it to make sure it’s not too heavy to hold when loaded.

Hopper capacity: Match the size of the hopper to your needs.

If you’re cooking for one or two, choose a smaller hopper. If you regularly whip up a feast for multitudes, select a roomy hopper.

Ease of the squeeze: A fully loaded ricer can be a bear to squeeze. It takes two hands and a bit of muscle to push the plunger into the hopper. Take a few test squeezes before you buy, and check that your hands fit around the handle when the plunger is at its highest point.

Cleanup: Some ricers come apart for easier cleanup. A few are dishwasher-safe, top rack. Because potato starches harden quickly, ricers should be cleaned, or at least rinsed, just after use.

Make marvelous mashed potatoes with these ricers to go with our picnic-perfect recipe for oven-fried chicken in this month’s Easy Eats.

Inspired Food Culture

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ON the shelf

BEER written by Michael Sweeney

The creator of STLHops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

Six Row Brewing Co.’s Kölsch STYLE: Kölsch (4.6% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Six Row Brewing Co., 3690 Forest Park Ave., Midtown, sixrowbrewco.com; $4.50 (16-oz draught) PAIRINGS: Lobster • Grilled pork chops

When Kölsch is done right, there are few more refreshing styles of beer. With a soft malt character and a slightly crisp hop bite, Six Row’s Kölsch is one of the finest examples available in St. Louis. This light-bodied beer is fermented warm and then aged cold for a minimum of three weeks to mellow the flavors, making for a thirst-quenching brew.

Stone Brewing Co.’s Levitation Ale STYLE: American Amber (4.4% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Dierbergs Markets, multiple locations, dierbergs.com; $10.49 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) PAIRINGS: Chicken enchiladas • Stilton Cheddar

One of the biggest buzzwords in all of craft beer is “sessionable.” A sessionable beer is one that is low in alcohol, allowing you to partake in a couple of beers in a single session without getting too tipsy. But beer that’s low-alcohol doesn’t have to be low-interest. Stone’s Levitation provides plenty of character with a big tangerine-like hop aroma and rich malt body.

Sierra Nevada Brewing Co.’s Kellerweis STYLE: Hefeweizen (4.8% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Randall’s Wines & Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $9.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) PAIRINGS: Schnitzel • Moo shu pork

Few beers make me happier during these spring days than a great example of a German-style hefeweizen. The large percentage of wheat that goes into making this beer provides a silky, fullbodied drinking experience. The aroma pops with hints of banana and clove that carry through to the flavor. This is a beer that should hold a permanent spot in your fridge all summer long.

SPIRITS written by Chad Michael George

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

St. George Botanivore Gin Provenance: Alameda, Calif. (45% abv) Available at: The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $32.99 Try it: In a classic French 75

St. George has released three exciting new gins.

The Botanivore is aptly named. This gin oozes with botanical intensity. Twenty herbs, spices and fruits are incorporated into this bright and smooth distillation. Dill, ginger, pepper and citrus notes are the most prominent flavors. It’s a great addition to the growing American gin collection.

St. George Terroir Gin Provenance: Alameda, Calif. (45% abv) Available at: Randall’s Wines & Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $34.99 Try it: With your favorite tonic water and a lime

Master distiller Lance Winters found inspiration for creating this blend when hiking Mount Tam and sought to put out a “uniquely Californian gin with a real sense of place.” Of the three new offerings, Terroir Gin is the most similar to a classic London Dry. Twelve botanicals are used in the making of this intense yet silky-smooth gin. Juniper is heavy on the nose and the tongue, and toasted coriander provides a note of interest.

St. George Dry Rye Gin Provenance: Alameda, Calif. (45% abv) Available at: Randall’s Wines & Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $34.99 Try it: With a splash of soda on the rocks

Dry Rye is my favorite of the trio. The pot-distilled rye base gives it a vegetal nose, almost like that of a white or unaged whiskey. On the palate, it is peppery and citrus-heavy with just enough juniper kick. The simplicity of its five-botanical mix makes this a smooth-drinking gin that begs you to try it as a substitute to whiskey in your favorite cocktail.

Some may argue it’s not a true gin, but I love that craft distillers continue to push the envelope and expand the gin segment.

OUR TOP PICKS FOR APRIL Pouring wine photography by ©iStockphoto.com/Lauri Patterson

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WINE written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

2010 Borsao Blanco Provenance: Spain Available at: Straub’s, multiple locations, straubs. com; $7.99 Pairings: Olives • Ceviche • Sheep’s milk cheeses

Spring weather calls for easy-sipping, citrusy whites and uncomplicated, quaffable wines.

This supple Spanish white is made from 100 percent Macabeo (also known as Viura) and releases creamy notes of almond, peach and tart apple. Bright acidity keeps this valuedriven wine lively and makes it a good food pairing selection.

Rubus Low Yield Shiraz-Viognier 2010 Provenance: Barossa Valley, Australia Available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $17.99 Pairings: Bison burgers • Roast duck • Gumbo

This is one of few blended wines that use both red and white wine grapes, and the result strikes a beautiful balance between the dark-fruit tastes of blackberry and plum and the herbal nuances of mint and eucalyptus. The 2 percent of Viognier brings vibrant character and extra dimension to the otherwise luscious, mouthfilling Shiraz. Intense color and heady aromas are delivered with every swirl, smell and sip.

2010 Charles & Charles Red Provenance: Columbia Valley, Wash.

Available at: Whole Foods Market, 1160 Town and Country Crossing Drive, Town and Country, wholefoodsmarket.com; $10.99 Pairings: Rib-eye steak • Barbecue chicken • Cheddar

Almost equal parts oak-aged Cabernet Sauvignon and stainless-steel-fermented Syrah come together to create this approachable yet intriguing red from Washington state.

Saturating, powerful notes of black currant and cranberry lead your palate into layers of mocha and tobacco followed by a lingering finish of sweet oak and moderate tannins.

Join Angela Ortmann and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville for a happy hour wine tasting at Robust on Thu., April 19, at 6pm.

RSVP to rsvp@stlwinegirl.com.

JOIN US! Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

33

mystery shopper

Crab Ravigote

By SAM KOGOS, Riverbend Restaurant and Bar

Crab Ravigote, like shrimp Clemenceau, echoes the French and Creole cooking of old New Orleans for Sam Kogos, a NOLA native. Kogos gets nostalgic for Antoine’s and Galatoire’s when he makes this French seafood salad as a special at Riverbend.

Serves | 4 | 1 cup 2 tsp

1 ½ cup 1 Tbsp 1 tsp ¼ cup 2 Tbsp

1 lb 4 cups

mayonnaise Dijon mustard lemon, juiced minced onions minced shallots minced garlic caper berries, stems removed and thinly sliced chopped parsley, plus 4 sprigs for garnish salt and freshly ground black pepper jumbo lump crabmeat mixed greens

| Preparation | Combine mayonnaise with mustard,

Carefully pick through the crabmeat and remove shell pieces or cartilage. Using a spatula, gently fold the dressing into the crabmeat, taking care not to break up the lumps of crabmeat. Cover and chill at least 30 minutes. Arrange mixed greens on a plate. Top with ravigote and garnish with parsley.

MEET: CAPER BERRIES Caper berries are not one of the Cap’n Crunch family of cereals. It’s an understandable misconception, what with the Cap’n’s extensive variations of berries and an adventuresome word like caper in the name. Though it sounds like a cereal your kids would beg you for, a bowl full of caper berries covered in milk is more of an April Fools’ Day trick than a delicious way to savor these salty-sour morsels.

Stop by 34

feastSTL.com

written by Russ Carr

What Is It?

How Do I Use It?

About the size of a grape, and usually presented with a cherrylike stem still attached, a caper berry is the fruit of the capparis spinosa, a small, spiny shrub native to the Mediterranean region. You may think you’ve had caper berries before, served with your bagels and lox. But those are capers, and they’re not the same thing. Capers, the tiny green salt bombs that taste so good with smoked salmon and other dishes, are actually the immature flower buds of the same plant, harvested before they can grow. Caper berries are the full fruit of the more mature plant.

There are some remarkable similarities in flavor and color, but the larger berries offer a less acidic, mellower option than their immature siblings.

Caper berries have a complex flavor that spans from lemony to briny, just like their tiny relations.

As a result, they can readily be used in place of olives, either as an ingredient or simply as a quick nosh alongside antipasto. Caper berries are most often found brined in jars or tins, so at the very least a quick rinse is recommended before you serve them. They can be roasted, or even pan-fried until their skin crisps up – leave the stems on for easy eating as finger food. If you’re feeling particularly continental, you could serve them at breakfast alongside eggs and a good piece of Spanish jamón. Just resist the urge to sneak ’em into the kids’ cereal bowls.

to pick up more delicious recipes featuring caper berries. Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations.

APRIL 2012

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg

lemon juice, onions, shallots, garlic, caper berries and chopped parsley. Mix well. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

check it out!

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Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

35

tECH SCHOOL

Salt Curing STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassy Vires

As a chef, I am constantly asked the question, “What is the most important ingredient in your kitchen?” The answer is consistently and resoundingly: salt. It is an essential element in life. Our bodies need it to function, and our food is made so much better by it. It’s not only vital to flavoring foods but also essential to preserving them.

Salt played a key role in the survival of our civilization in times when refrigeration wasn’t an option or when fresh meats were unavailable because of proximity.

Most people think of time and temperature as the major culprits in food spoilage, but spoilage is actually caused by bacteria and microbes feeding on foods’ proteins. Those bacteria survive because of moisture, and salt drives that moisture out, thus creating an environment inhospitable to bacteria. Salt will also kill preliminary bacteria before they can do any damage.

The process of drawing moisture out of protein comes down to a word we are all familiar with: osmosis. The cellular membranes of protein are thick enough that most particles cannot cross over. Water molecules are small enough to pass through, and when sodium is added, the water is attracted to those ions and passes through the membrane more freely, essentially dehydrating the protein.

Salt curing has endless applications – pork, seafood, duck, chicken, beef, cucumbers, cabbage and so on. It is used to make a number of foods we have come to know and love, including prosciutto, pancetta, bacon, corned beef, pickles and sauerkraut. And with all of the applications, there is room for your personal preference. Gravlax, the recipe we share here, requires a certain salt-to-sugar ratio, but beyond that the flavorings are completely up to you. Use fennel, citrus, dill, peppercorns or whatever you desire. Just remember that a 2-lb piece of salmon will require 8 ounces of salt and 4 ounces of sugar. Add additional sugar for a moister finished product.

Forty-eight hours later, just slice and serve.

Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen. She received her culinary training in Houston and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

COOKING VIDEO!

Watch chef Cassy make gravlax, and create this Easter brunch staple at home.

Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at

feastSTL.com.

36

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APRIL 2012

Gravlax Served simply with a bagel and cream cheese, used in a salad, or diced for tartare, this salt-cured salmon requires very little active time and will keep in your refrigerator for weeks.

Serves | 10 to 12 |

1

20 oz 10 oz

1

1 ¼ cup

5-lb side of salmon, pinbones removed kosher salt light brown sugar orange, juiced and zested lemon, juiced and zested white peppercorns

| Preparation | Rinse the salmon under cold running water and set out to dry. Mix together the salt and sugar. Spread half of that mixture into the bottom of a nonreactive container, preferably glass, just large enough to hold the salmon. Do not use a container that is too large or too

small, as the salmon will release moisture during this process.

| 1 | Place the salmon on top of the salt-sugar mixture. Drizzle the orange and lemon juices over both sides of the salmon and then cover with the remaining salt mixture. If you need more salt mixture, feel free to make more to ensure the salmon is completely covered. The amount needed will vary depending on thickness and weight of the fish. | 2 | Add the zests and peppercorns and cover with plastic wrap.

| 3 | Place a weight on top of the salmon. Canned foods or heavy pots work well. Refrigerate for no less than 48 hours and no more than 72 hours. The salmon should be firm to the touch.

Remove the salmon from the pan, rinse under cold running water and pat dry. | 4 | Before slicing and serving, remove the salmon’s skin by running a thin-bladed and very sharp knife between the skin and flesh. Store in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks, wrapped loosely in parchment paper or butcher paper.

|1|

|2|

PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

|3|

|4| Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

37

how to

how to

master the Chopsticks written by Brandon Chuang

We know – you’ve been using chopsticks since sixth grade when your parents took you to the local Chinese restaurant.

By now you’re a seasoned pro at picking up pieces of soy-coated broccoli. But what about slicing that last piece of beef in half? Many of us, whether taught by a friend or by illustrations on the back of a chopsticks wrapper, use some form of the standard Japanese grip. And though it is effective, it’s not always the most efficient. The following method, commonly used in Taiwan and many parts of eastern China, limits the amount of free motion and creates more power in your pickup.

It takes getting used to, but once you have it down, you’ll never pick up a fork or knife at an Asian restaurant again.

Pencils Down The first thing you’re going to do is put your chopsticks together. Yes, we understand – it’s not how you’d normally hold them. However, limiting the chopsticks’ range of motion is what creates the power you need to cut meat and fish. | 1 | Next you’re going to hold the chopsticks like a pencil in your dominant hand, one on top of the other.

Think Simple Speaking of sixth grade, do you remember simple machines? That’s exactly what you have in your hand. The top chopstick, farthest away from where your thumb meets your index finger, is the lever.

The fulcrum, or flex point, is where your thumb and index finger meet. The chopsticks will always stay together at this point. The bottom chopstick will be what you anchor your food against and thus will never move.

Push | 2 | Using your index finger, push the front half of the top chopstick down, toward your thumb. As you do so, the back half of the top chopstick will turn away from your thumb. From a top perspective, it will look like a scissoring motion.

Squeeze Your chopsticks are now in the open position.

| 3 | To close them, twist the top chopstick back into place above the bottom one by pushing inward with the joint in your thumb and outward with the muscles between the second and third knuckles of your index finger. In essence, you’re squeezing the chopsticks back together.

Practice You’ll be surprised by the extremely strong grip of this method, when done correctly. However, you’re going to need some practice to get there. Many Taiwanese and Chinese parents help their children perfect their form by making a game out of picking up shelled peanuts. If you can pick up peanuts consistently and quickly, you’ve mastered the chopsticks.

INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO! Columnist Brandon Chuang shows you how to get a grip on this powerful way to use chopsticks.

Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.

38

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APRIL 2012

Looking for a place to put your chopsticks after the server takes away your plate? Use your wrapper as a rest by folding it over several times and placing the front of your chopsticks on top. Whatever you do, don’t spear them into your rice, and please don’t rub them together to rid them of splinters.

Both are big cultural no-nos.

Illustration by Derek Bauman

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EASY EATS

healthy, home-style STORY and Recipe by Gabrielle DeMichele

We all love the crunchy goodness of fried chicken, but sometimes we’d like to skip the extra calories and fat that result from frying. Whether packed up in your picnic basket or piled high on a platter at brunch, this oven-fried chicken is a healthier alternative that still provides the home-style flavor and comfort of the real thing.

JOIN US! rsvp: schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

| Preparation | The night before, or for

Serves | 4 |

1

2 cups ½ tsp ½ cup 1 Tbsp 2¾ cup ¼ cup 1 Tbsp 2 tsp ¼ tsp

|

whole fryer chicken, 3 to 4 lbs, cut into 8 pieces buttermilk cayenne pepper, divided butter vegetable oil rice flour cornstarch baking powder salt pepper, freshly ground

CHEF’S

at least 2 hours before baking, soak the chicken in a mixture of buttermilk and ¼ tsp cayenne pepper in the refrigerator, stirring occasionally.

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Remove chicken from the buttermilk and drain on a rack. Place butter and oil on a baking sheet with sides, and place baking sheet in the oven to melt the fats, ensuring they don’t burn.

Meanwhile, combine the remaining ingredients, including remaining

The sheet is the cheat. The key to getting great “fried” chicken from the oven is the greased baking sheet. Adding the oil to the butter helps prevent the milk solids in the

Join FEAST and Schnucks Cooks Cooking School on Wed., April 25, at 6pm to make the tasty dishes in the menu above. Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine.

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Check out feastSTL.com for a step-by-step slide show on making this month’s dish.

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Carefully remove the pan from the oven and place the floured chicken pieces, skin side down, in the melted fat. Return to the oven and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven, turn the chicken skin side up, return the pan to the oven, raise the heat to 400ºF and continue baking for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and serve immediately.

|

Rice is nice. The use of rice flour in this recipe makes for a lighter, crunchier crust and also makes this delicious preparation gluten-free. In a pinch, you can substitute allpurpose flour, though you’ll miss a bit of the crispy results.

PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

cayenne pepper, in a bag or bowl. Mix well and dredge or shake the chicken to coat each piece completely.

butter from burning during the melting process. Swirl the pan to cover the bottom entirely with the butter before placing the chicken in the pan. Also, be careful not to crowd the chicken in the pan. Allow enough space between the pieces to ensure even browning. Baking the chicken with the skin side down first guarantees a crisp skin.

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Recipe on p. 50

Baked Ham with Cherry-brandy Glaze

The next time you open an exceptional bottle of booze,

spirited cooking Story and recipes by Angela Komis

the big o Ginger-Roasted Carrots

|

Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Recipe on p. 50

put down the rocks glass and cocktail shaker and break out a saucepan and mixing bowl. Adding spirits to sauces, soups, vinaigrettes and desserts is a great way to bring depth of flavor to some of your favorite recipes. And you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t deplete your home bar doing so. When cooking with spirits, a little goes a long way. Depending on the preparation method, a good amount of the alcohol content will cook off, allowing the unique flavors of the ingredients used in the distilling process to shine through. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve concocted recipes using liquors and liqueurs you may already have in your home bar, but try your hand in the kitchen with some of the brands featured in A Revival of Spirits (p. 54) for even more ways to enjoy locally made booze.

Pan-Seared Halibut with Fennel and pernod

Recipe on p. 50

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Italian Sa us Makes: 6 se age Rigatoni rvings Ingredients:

• 1 lb. Kenrick 's Salsiccia sausage links • 1 pkg. (1-lb .) rigatoni pa sta • 3 Tbsp. ol ive oil • 2 cloves ga rlic, minced • 1 lg. swee t red pepper, cut into strip • 1 med. on s ion, cut into thin wedges • 2 Tbsp. Ita lian • 1 jar (26 oz parsley, chopped .) of your favo rite pasta sa uce

Preparation

: Cook sausage lin cook rigatoni ks to an inter acco nal temperatu oil until hot. Ad rding to package directions re of 155 degr ; drain and se d garlic; saute' ees. Meanwhil t as e, for 30 second saute' for 2 m s or until golde ide. In a large skillet, heat inutes or until olive n. Add red pe crisp-tender. skillet. Stir in ppers and on Cut sausage pasta sauce; ions; into 1/2 inch heat through. thick coin slice Add pasta; tos s; add to s to combine.

Sprinkle with parsley.

Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

47

Sweet and Salty rumchata Cheesecake Trifle

Recipe on p. 50

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APRIL 2012

49

spirited recipes Baked Ham with Cherry-Brandy Glaze

Pernod is a French liqueur with an exquisite anise flavor that complements the sweet fennel. Serve with couscous, wild rice or roasted potatoes.

Serves | 8 to 10 | Glaze 1½ cups

1 Tbsp 1 cup ¾ cup

2

1 1 pinch

1 Tbsp Ham

1

10 4 cups

Pan-Seared Halibut with Fennel and Pernod

pitted dark Bing cherries, with juice minced shallot lemon-lime soda Kirsch cherry brandy* whole cloves bay leaf ground cinnamon salt and freshly ground black pepper butter

8- to 10-lb ham, shank end, bone in and skin on whole cloves lemon-lime soda

| Preparation – Glaze | Combine all ingredients except butter in a saucepan and bring to a slow simmer. Reduce until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Add butter and whisk until melted. Remove cloves and bay leaf.

| Preparation – Ham | Preheat oven to 350ºF. With a sharp knife, score the skin on the top half of the ham with a diamond pattern. Place the ham in a large roasting pan and insert cloves into the skin. Pour the soda over the ham and cover with foil. Bake for 1 hour, basting with pan juices every 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the foil and continue baking uncovered another 30 to 45 minutes. During the last 20 minutes of baking, cover the ham with 1 cup of glaze and baste with pan juices. If the ham starts to get too dark, tent it with foil. The ham is finished cooking when an instantread thermometer inserted into the fattest portion of the ham reads 140ºF. Remove from the oven, tent with foil and rest for 30 to 45 minutes before carving. Serve with remaining glaze on the side.

Serves | 4 | Tbsp 2

4

2 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 cup ¾ cup 2 Tbsp

12 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 1 cup

*RumChata Horchata Con Ron can be found in most liquor stores and grocery store liquor departments.

olive oil, plus more for dressing greens 4- to 6-oz halibut fillets kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper fennel bulbs, thinly sliced minced garlic shallot, minced vegetable stock Pernod* butter cherry tomatoes, halved finely chopped fennel fronds finely chopped fresh tarragon fresh pea shoots or sunflower sprouts

| Preparation | Add olive oil to a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and swirl to coat the pan. Season the halibut fillets on both sides with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, add the fillets and cook for 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Remove fish from pan and set aside. Add the fennel, garlic and shallot to the pan and sauté until soft. Add the stock and deglaze the pan. Add the Pernod. If you are using a gas stove, remove the pan from the flame before adding the Pernod. It is not necessary to flame the Pernod, but if it does ignite, it will burn out quickly. Simmer the sauce until reduced by half, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the butter and stir until incorporated. Add tomatoes, fennel fronds and tarragon. Plate the halibut and top with sauce. Toss the pea shoots with a drizzle of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on top of fish and serve. *Pernod can be found at most liquor stores. Anise-flavored liqueur (anisette) can be substituted.

*Kirsch cherry brandy can be found at most liquor stores.

Sweet and Salty RumChata Cheesecake Trifle

The Big O Ginger-Roasted Carrots

Serves | 4 to 6 |

This recipe pairs fresh spring carrots with The Big O all-natural ginger liqueur, made by St. Louisans Bill Foster and Kathy Kuper.

Serves | 4 to 6 |

1 lb

1 4 sprigs 2 sprigs 3 Tbsp 1 tsp

1 cup ½ cup ¼ cup 1 Tbsp 2 cloves 2 tsp 1 Tbsp

carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch sticks red onion, sliced fresh thyme, finely chopped fresh rosemary, finely chopped extra-virgin olive oil granulated sugar kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper vegetable stock apple-carrot juice The Big O ginger liqueur* dark brown sugar garlic, minced fresh ginger, minced butter thinly sliced candied ginger, for garnish

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400ºF. In a large bowl, combine carrots through granulated sugar. Toss to combine and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Arrange carrots in a single layer on a 9x13-inch baking sheet and roast until fork-tender, about 20 minutes. In a medium saucepan, combine stock through fresh ginger and season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer until reduced by half. Add butter and stir until incorporated.

Serve the carrots on a platter, garnished with candied ginger. Serve the sauce on the side. * For purchasing information, visit drinkthebigo.com/locations.html.

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Cheesecakes

½ cup

1 cup

3 Tbsp 2 Tbsp + 1/3 cup

8 oz

3 Tbsp

1 tsp

2 Tbsp

finely ground graham cracker crumbs coarsely ground salty pretzels melted butter granulated sugar, divided cream cheese, softened RumChata Horchata Con Ron vanilla extract whipped cream

RumChata Cream

3 cups heavy whipping cream

Trifle

¼ cup 1 Tbsp ½ tsp ¼ cup

1 pint

1 pint

2 pints

| Preparation – Trifle | Crumble the cheesecakes and place one-third of the crumbles into a trifle bowl. Add onethird of the berries and one-third of the RumChata cream.

Repeat until the bowl is filled and garnish with chocolatecovered pretzels.

confectioners’ sugar vanilla extract ground cinnamon RumChata Horchata Con Ron

fresh raspberries fresh blackberries fresh strawberries, sliced chocolate-covered pretzels, for garnish

| Preparation – Cheesecakes | Mix together graham cracker crumbs, pretzels, butter and 2 Tbsp sugar. Press mixture into the bottoms and up the sides of 6 cupcake tins to form a crust. Place in the refrigerator to chill.

Combine cream cheese, RumChata, vanilla extract and remaining sugar in a mixing bowl. Beat with an electric mixer until smooth. Fold in whipped cream and spoon the filling into crusts. Return to the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.

| Preparation – RumChata Cream | In a large mixing bowl, beat the cream until soft peaks form. Add remaining ingredients and beat until the cream holds stiff peaks.

Smoked Ribs with Wild Turkey American Honey Barbecue Sauce These all-American ribs have a unique preparation. A wet marinade comes first. Then they’re smoked with a dry rub.

And finally they’re slathered in a decadent sauce.

Serves | 4 | Ribs

2 slabs

1 cup

½ cup

½ cup

2 Tbsp

2 Tbsp 1 tsp + 3 Tbsp 1 tsp + 2 Tbsp

½ cup

½ cup

¼ cup

3 Tbsp

2 Tbsp

2 Tbsp

2 Tbsp

St. Louis-cut ribs or baby back ribs Wild Turkey American Honey bourbon canola oil apple cider vinegar clover honey Worcestershire sauce garlic powder, divided onion powder, divided firmly packed dark brown sugar granulated sugar paprika Italian seasoning ground ginger kosher salt freshly ground black pepper

Barbecue Sauce

1 cup Wild Turkey American Honey bourbon

1 cup 1 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 2 tsp 1 tsp

ketchup lemon juice Worcestershire sauce clover honey malt vinegar dark brown sugar minced garlic onion powder

| Preparation – Ribs | Rinse ribs and pat dry. Remove membrane from the back of the ribs by loosening it with a butter knife and pulling it off. In a medium bowl, combine bourbon, oil, vinegar, honey, Worcestershire sauce, 1 tsp garlic powder and 1 tsp onion powder. Pour marinade into a large storage bag and add the ribs, shaking to fully cover ribs with marinade. Refrigerate for 3 hours.

In a small bowl, add remaining ingredients to create a dry rub. Remove the ribs from the marinade and pat dry. Coat both sides of the ribs with the dry rub, about 1 Tbsp per side. Unused dry rub can be stored in an airtight container in the cupboard for up to 3 months. Cover ribs and return to the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.

Soak ½ lb of your choice of wood chips in water for about an hour. In the meantime, set up your grill. First adjust the air intake at the bottom to one-quarter of the way open. You do not need too much air because the fire should reach only 250ºF. Next place charcoal (don’t use the instant-light variety) in a chimney starter and light.

Once the coals are lit, place them on just one side of the grill. Place 4 oz of soaked wood chips on the other side.

Cover and set your thermometer. Wait until it reaches 250ºF. It should never reach 275ºF during the smoking process. If it does, cool down the grill by spraying it with a little water. Add the slabs to the side with the wood chips and smoke for 3 to 4 hours, adding the remaining soaked wood chips halfway through.

| Preparation – Barbecue Sauce | Combine all ingredients in a medium saucepan and simmer until thickened, about 30 minutes. Slather the ribs with a coating of sauce and serve ribs with remaining sauce on the side.

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APRIL 2012

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Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

53

This polished copper still at Square One Brewery and Distillery is used in the distillation of the various Spirits Of St. Louis liquors.

a revival of Written by Brandon Chuang

|

Photography by Corey Woodruff

shot on location at Square One Brewery and Distillery

Nick Roady might be a thief – and a time traveler – because I’m almost certain the dingy blue metal pot he’s showing me in the distilling room of his company headquarters is the same one I used to heat soup back in college. “This is what we used to make our experimental batches,” says Roady, vice president of sales and marketing for Mastermind Distillery, located across the river in Pontoon Beach, Ill. Considering the bottle for the company’s flagship product, Mastermind Vodka, is so shiny, I’m confused as to how such a pretty product could come from what appears to be my old ramen maker. “Hey, it got the job done,” Roady quips proudly.

Welcome to the growing world of craft distilling in Missouri.

Distilling is the physical process used to separate a mixture – in this case, extracting alcohol from a fermented product like wine or beer. The steps needed to make a spirit – both before, such as milling and fermenting, and after, such as diluting and cutting – are laborious and time-consuming, to say the least. Worthwhile, if you’re making thousands upon thousands of gallons. Bordering on the ridiculous when you’re making 10 to 50 gallons, which is exactly what craft distillers do.

“Small batches are so much more exciting,” says Ralph Haynes, a graying keg of a man with a mustache that could rival Tom Selleck’s. He’s one of the founders of Pinckney Bend Distillery.

“You can experiment more because you don’t need to sell 100,000 cases to be profitable.”

Haynes knows what he’s talking about; his New Haven, Mo., distillery’s eponymous gin won a gold medal for taste at last year’s MicroLiquor Spirits Awards in Los Angeles. “The industry today, it’s like the Wild West,” he says. “When we started two years ago, as craft brewing friends that wanted to see what we could do with spirits, the ‘veterans’ had only been doing it for a few years – the really old guys, a few more.”

Craft distilling in the United States may be young, but it has hit a growth spurt, with distilleries popping up all across the country, especially around St. Louis. “Missouri is one of America’s great farming states,” notes Dave Weglarz, owner and master distiller of the upcoming Downtown spiritmaker, StilL 630. “The quality of local ingredients will help distillers make great products.”

Roady agrees. “It’s the reason we got into this business,” he says. “We realized that we have the best grains on Earth in our own backyard. There’s no reason we can’t make a superior product right here.”

Many, if not most, of your favorite spirits are grain-based. So the spirit-making process often begins with milling. This is where the grains, often called a mash “bill” because of the combination of several varieties of grain, are placed in a mill. A grinder cracks the grain open.

The newly exposed grain is added to water and heated, activating the starches in the grain and converting them to sugars. The resulting slurry is called a mash, which home brewers and brewery tour takers will recognize because it’s the exact same process used to create beer.

“It does help that we do both,” admits Steve Neukomm, owner of Square One Brewery and Distillery, which makes Spirits of St. Louis products. “It saves a step.” Neukomm is no stranger to the craft distillery movement in St. Louis – actually, he was the first craft distiller in town. His experience shows when you walk into his Lafayette Square establishment and see his spirits behind the bar: a baker’s dozen of whiskeys, vodkas, rums and liqueurs.

“I wanted to create spirits that I actually wanted to drink,” he says, laughing. Jokes aside, Neukomm stresses that the difference in craft distilling is found in the details. “Most rums, for example, use blackstrap molasses. It’s the second-lowest grade in the sugarcane process, right above animal feed. We researched and found that golden cane was the highest grade, so we sought it out when making our rums.”

Making rum is similar to making wine because the sugars are readily available: In the case of rum, the sugars are found in the molasses; in wine, the sugars come from the grapes. Unlike with grain-based alcohols, milling and mash making are unnecessary. In fact, as long as enough sugars are accessible, alcohol can be made from anything.

The reason sugar is so important is because of the next step: fermentation, vital in the creation of all forms of alcohol. During fermentation, yeast is added to the liquid. (When making rum, water is also added during

this step.) The yeast then “eats” away at the sugars. The results are alcohol and carbon dioxide. Although the process may sound boring, it’s where much of the flavor profile begins to take shape for many spirits. In other words, this is where craft distillers start going bananas.

“You can use two different yeasts on the same grain bill and come out with two distinct spirits,” Haynes says.

“Same with differing grain bills. What would whiskey taste like with 80 percent barley, 10 percent quinoa and 10 percent millet? I have no idea, but I want to find out.”

At Crown Valley Brewing and Distilling Co. in Ste. Genevieve County, distiller Scott Eckl is also a curious fellow. Seeing Crown Valley had more grapes than it could use, Eckl saw a chance to jump into the distillery game last year. “It just made sense to try and make a grape-based spirit,” says Eckl. The result, Crown Valley Vodka, is distilled completely from grapes.

“The definition of vodka is to have no taste, but that doesn’t always have to be the case. In the case of our

vodka, grapes add a floral nose and a nice sweetness.

It’s its own thing.”

The final technical process – the one that distinguishes spirit-making from other forms of alcohol production – is distillation. The fermented liquid is slowly heated in a metal vat called a still. Alcohol has a lower boiling point than water, which means alcohol also vaporizes at lower temperatures. As the mixture heats, the alcohol in the liquid boils off, steaming to the top. The steam runs into a collector, which ranges from a copper coil called a worm submerged in cold water to a complex shell and tube condenser. As it cools, the vapor returns to liquid form, and the result is distilled alcohol.

Depending on what spirit is being produced, the alcohol may be distilled several more times to further purify and/ or concentrate and increase the strength of the spirit.

Vodka is the most common example of this practice. In the case of gin, the alcohol is distilled again so juniper and other botanicals can infuse themselves into the spirit.

Distilled alcohol isn’t necessarily drinkable alcohol, however. It’s often too potent. Most alcohols are either barrel-aged to mellow their flavors (as with whiskey and rum) or diluted with water (as with vodka and gin). Not only is distilled alcohol’s potency unpleasant, but it could be lethal.

From the still, alcohol has three distinct parts: heads, hearts and tails.

The hearts are the purest form of ethanol, or drinking alcohol. The tails are also drinkable but not really palatable. Spirits like whiskey often include a portion of the tails to impart flavor. The heads, however, contain methanol, which is poisonous. But microdistillers understand the craft of “making cuts” and separating the good from the bad.

Alcohol comes in varying strengths and volatilities: The more volatile the alcohol, the lower the boiling point. So when fermented liquid is distilled, the “bad” alcohol is the first to vaporize and come through the collector. As the distillate begins to drip out of the collector, a distiller is prepared to gather the bad alcohol with a heads container. Based mainly on scent and taste, the distiller determines when the heads have run their course. At that time, he makes his cuts – swapping out the heads container for a hearts one. He does it once more toward the end, when making the cut between his hearts and tails.

“That’s the beauty of small batches,” says Bill Schroer, one of the founders of St. Louis Distillery. “There’s a beginning and end to the process.”

Schroer’s point stems from the difference between continuous- and batch-distillation processes. Continuous distillation is often used by large-volume distilleries because of its speed. Unlike batch distillation, where physical cuts are made in the spirit, continuous distillation automatically discards a small amount of the unwanted distillate – there is no end, just constant distilling.

“In small batches, there’s a definite heart,” says Schroer. “You can be a surgeon and cut out just the bad stuff.”

Schroer, ironically enough, is a surgeon – an orthopedic one. And he, along with two of his neighbors, formed the St. Charles-based distillery a little less than two years ago. Their first spirit is Cardinal Sin Vodka, which Schroer says will come out in late spring or early summer.

“Our wives think we’re going through a midlife crisis,” says Schroer, laughing. “We explained to them that it was cheaper than a car and cheaper than a girlfriend.”

However, Schroer adds, “We’re probably past the point of a car now.”

Jake Jones pulls up in front of American Craft Brewing and Distilling in a burnt-orange 1976 Datsun 280Z. He is the general manager and master distiller of American Craft as well as the master distiller for Amalgamated Distilling Co. As we sit and talk, he speaks thoughtfully on what he believes to be the future of craft distilling and how it differs from craft brewing.

“A lot of people have a distinct idea of what an IPA should taste like,” he says. “So everyone goes out and tries to achieve that idea.”

What ends up happening, Jones suggests, is the market saturates itself with similar products, leaving the customer’s decision to be founded on things like tap-handle design. “For the most part, [craft distillers] want to make unique products, not necessarily improve old ones,” says Jones.

“Try my rum and then go down the street and try [Steve Neukomm’s].

They’re both good but completely different.”

As we continue to talk, Jones predicts how we’ll see more unique spirits and spirit-making methods. He tells me about his upcoming spiced rum as well as a vodka made from wine. He speaks favorably about the benefit of St. Louis’ locavore mentality. It’s put into practice by companies like Mastermind Distillery and Pinckney Bend Distillery, which use only local products – even down to the glass bottles Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

57

that contain their wares. Jones also outlines his vision for microbreweries to inexpensively expand and add distilleries, promoting the craft movement and increasing independent-brand distinction at the same time.

Jones speaks like a man who has done this a long time – Neukomm beat him by only a few months. And it’s funny because Jones looks to be about 30. I didn’t think it possible, but had I finally met a somber and stoic distiller? Did I really want a guy like that making my party fuel?

As I left American Craft, I noticed Jones’ Datsun again; it was parked in front of me.

Its color seemed to change; now a dark candy-apple red in the dying light that flashed across his license plate. “ALCOHOL” was stamped across the plate in bold, bright “I-welcome-your-DUI-checkpoint” letters.

“I have another Datsun with a plate that says ‘DISTILL’, ” Jones says.

Left to right: Greg Deters, St. Louis Distillery; Scott Eckl, Crown Valley Brewing and Distilling Co.; Ralph Haynes, Pinckney Bend Distillery; Steve Neukomm, Square One Brewery and Distillery; Nick Roady, Mastermind Distillery; Dave Weglarz, StilL 630

The air was calm, and all was right with the world.

Oak barrels are used to age and mellow a variety of spirits in Square One Brewery and Distillery’s on-premises cellar

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Inspired Food Culture

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One of our most popular items is our fried chicken. The TALK-N-CHIC™ is a house secret, trademarked recipe that has been passed down through generations. Castelli's Moonlight at 255, also offers other homemade specialties such as the “Roman” house salad dressing, tortellini, and ravioli. All are absolutely delicious! If you're a steak, chop or seafood lover, you can't go wrong. The menu from top to bottom is wonderful and the prices are a great value. If you fancy a quality bottle of wine we offer a selection for every palate and budget.

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APRIL 2012

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MODERN

QUICK BREADS Story and recipes by Christy Augustin Photography by Jonathan Gayman

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s old is new again.

The Slow Food movement and its resulting revival of the handmade, artisanal approach to cooking and baking have us replicating the way Grandma did things in her kitchen. The smell of fresh-baked bread is extremely enticing, but bread baking is a daunting task for some home cooks. Quick breads, so aptly named for their quick and easy preparation, are often given rise through chemical leaveners, requiring little time commitment.

Long treasured for their versatility and forgiving nature, these elemental breads are easily updated to showcase modern ingredients and flavor combinations.

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve made over some classic recipes and offer tips to get you started on creating your own variations.

TIP Roasted Red Pepper and Feta Muffins It’s nearly impossible to eat just one of these savory breakfast treats; the salty Feta and bright flavor of the peppers make them irresistible. This muffin is mysteriously much better the second day, so plan ahead.

Yield | 12 to 14 muffins |

LESS IS MORE Quick bread recipes always caution against over mixing.

Less mixing allows for shorter, more tender gluten, resulting in moist and fluffy baked goods.

64

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2 cups

¼ cup 2 tsp ½ tsp 1 tsp ½ tsp ¼ tsp

¾ cup ½ cup 2 Tbsp ¾ cup ½ cup ½ cup 1/3 cup

1

unbleached all-purpose flour whole-wheat flour baking powder baking soda granulated sugar salt freshly ground black pepper crumbled Feta diced roasted red peppers fresh thyme, finely chopped grated Parmesan, divided milk, whole or 2 percent sour cream, not fat-free olive oil large egg

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 375ºF. Combine flour through black pepper in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Stir in Feta, red peppers, thyme and half the Parmesan with a spatula or wooden spoon. In a small bowl, combine the milk, sour cream, oil and egg.

Pour wet mixture into dry mixture and stir until just combined. Be careful not to overmix; the dough should be lumpy. Scoop dough into a muffin tin lined with baking cups and sprinkle tops with remaining Parmesan. Bake until goldenbrown, about 20 minutes.

| Variations | This savory muffin recipe is quite versatile. Substitute freshly grated zucchini or carrots for the roasted peppers, make it with caramelized onions and bacon, or simply try blue or goat cheese instead of Feta. It’s a delicious and easy recipe, and there isn’t much you can do to mess it up.

Irish Soda Bread This simple bread is a staple in my household, often served with potato soup. It truly isn’t much more than a big biscuit with a good kick of buttermilk.

It’s traditionally made plain or with raisins, but I like mine with sharp Cheddar and chives. Although there are numerous variations for making soda bread, this recipe is my favorite.

Yield | 1 large loaf | 3 cups

1 tsp 1 Tbsp

1 tsp 1½ Tbsp

½ cup 1½ cups

unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting kosher salt granulated sugar baking soda finely chopped fresh chives or scallions grated sharp Irish Cheddar low-fat buttermilk

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400ºF. In a large mixing bowl, add flour through Cheddar and whisk to combine. Add buttermilk and stir with a spatula or wooden spoon just until uniformly

TIP moistened, being careful not to overmix. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead lightly 2 to 3 times. The dough may be sticky, but avoid adding too much flour. Form into a nice, round ball approximately 9 inches in diameter and place onto a parchment-lined sheet pan or, preferably, a pizza stone. Using a sharp knife, slice a cross into the top of the loaf. Bake the loaf for 35 to 45 minutes, until dark brown. The center will be the last to bake, so a skewer through the middle will let you know whether the center has dried enough.

Remove from oven and cool on a rack.

| Variations | I’m an advocate of adding whole grains to my baked goods (especially when people least expect it, like in chocolate chip cookies).

Replace 1 cup of the all-purpose flour with stone-ground whole wheat in this recipe for great results. When I worked at Sidney Street Cafe, we would often serve mini soda breads with the soup of the day. To make this recipe

as individual portions, roll the dough about ½-inch thick and use a 1½-inchdiameter biscuit or cookie cutter to create approximately 25 individual loaves. Bake in mini muffin tins at 350ºF for 15 to 20 minutes.

Candied Ginger-HoneyCornmeal Loaves Crunchy, zingy and moist, this quick bread can be baked in a Bundt pan, small loaf pans or muffin tins. I added fresh tangerine and mango, but blueberries or apricot pieces would also be great. This recipe is adapted from Emily Luchetti’s Classic Stars Desserts, an all-around great baking book.

Yield | 4 small loaves | Loaves

1¼ cups

1 cup

cooking spray unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting cornmeal, white or yellow

2 tsp 1 tsp ½ tsp 1/3 cup 1 tsp ¼ cup

½ cup ½ cup cup ½ 2

2 ¼ ¼ cup cup 1 cup cup 1 ½ ½ tsp tsp ¼ ¼ cup cup 1/3 1/3 cup cup Glaze Glaze ½ ½ cup cup

1 cup cup 1 1 1 pinch pinch

baking powder baking soda kosher salt granulated sugar orange zest finely chopped candied ginger* diced fresh tangerine diced fresh fresh mango mango diced large eggs eggs large orange orange juice juice low-fat buttermilk buttermilk low-fat vanilla vanilla extract extract honey** honey** unsalted unsalted butter, butter, melted melted orange orange juice juice confectioners’ sugar sugar confectioners’ salt salt

|| Preparation oven Preparation – – Loaves Loaves || Preheat Preheat oven to 350ºF. Spray 4 small loaf pans with to 350ºF. Spray 4 small loaf pans with cooking sprayand anddust dustwith withflour. flour.Set Set cooking spray aside.

In a large mixing bowl, add flour aside. In a large mixing bowl, add flour through sugarand andwhisk whiskto tocombine. combine. through sugar Stir in in the the orange orangezest, zest,candied candiedginger ginger Stir and fruit with a spatula or wooden and fruit with a spatula or wooden spoon.

In aa separate separatebowl, bowl,combine combine spoon. In remaining ingredients and whiskuntil until remaining ingredients and whisk combined. Pour Pourthe thewet wetmixture mixture combined.

GOLDEN TOUCH To test for doneness while baking, in addition to looking for a nice golden top, check for a springy center. Most quick breads will spring back when touched lightly in the center.

Recipes continued on p. 66

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65

MORE TIPS

SODA VS. POWDER The reason quick breads don’t require rising time – and why they’re so quick – is that they employ chemical leaveners.

Baking soda requires moisture and acid to create CO2, which causes that lift you see in the oven. In baking, acids come in the form of buttermilk, sour cream, lemon juice, molasses, etc. All recipes relying on only baking soda for rise should be baked immediately. Since baking powder has the soda and acid built into it, batters and doughs using baking powder don’t fully leaven until they are heated and, consequently, can be frozen in their raw state until ready to bake.

COOL FACTOR

into the dry mixture and stir until just combined, being careful not to overmix. The batter should be lumpy.

Spoon batter into loaf pans and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the tops are golden-brown and a toothpick inserted into the center of each loaf comes out clean. Remove loaves from pans and cool on a cooling rack.

| Preparation – Glaze | Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and whisk until smooth. Once loaves have cooled, drizzle them with glaze, slice and serve.

| Variations | When using this batter to make muffins, line a muffin tin with paper baking cups and bake at 375ºF for about 20 minutes. To make a Bundt cake, pour batter into a nonstick pan and bake at 350ºF for around 45 minutes. Regardless of the shape you bake, don’t forget the glaze! *Candied ginger can be found at Jay International Foods and Whole Foods Market. **I’m very fond of Woodside Urban Honey, found at Salume Beddu, Extra Virgin An Olive Ovation and Pint Size Bakery.

Financier (AlmondBrown-Butter Tea Cakes)

Except for the soda bread, which is best eaten when freshly baked, these quick breads can be tightly wrapped and frozen after baking for up to one month with no loss of quality. Simply thaw them overnight in the refrigerator and pop them in the toaster oven for five minutes when ready to serve. Never refrigerate baked goods; they become stale more quickly if refrigerated. Whatever you can’t eat within a few days should be frozen.

Even the French, who have mastered the art of gourmet baking, enjoy quick breads. This rich, buttery recipe is given its unique flavor by melting the butter until the milk solids toast to a nutty, golden brown. Leavening is achieved through the combination of baking powder and whipped egg whites. Although you can bake this right away, the texture is improved when the batter is refrigerated for at least eight hours before baking.

Financiers are their best when baked in tiny tins, molds or fleximolds, such as madeleine pans.

| Preparation | In a small, heavybottomed saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat until the sizzling stops and the milk solids have turned a light, golden brown. Immediately pour the browned butter into a heat-proof container and set aside to cool.

Sift confectioners’ sugar, allpurpose flour and baking powder into a medium bowl, and then stir in the almond flour. In a separate bowl, combine the browned butter with honey, rum (or vanilla extract) and 1 egg white. Using a spatula or wooden spoon, stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients to make a soft paste. Whisk the remaining egg whites and salt until soft peaks form. Fold the whipped egg whites into the batter and refrigerate between 8 hours and 2 days before baking.

Preheat oven to 375ºF. Pipe or scoop the chilled batter into mini muffin tins or fleximolds greased with cooking spray. Bake until beautifully golden-brown, about 15 minutes.

| Variations | These sweet little cakes are great straight up, but try adding a dollop of blackberry jam in the center before baking or folding chopped brandied cherries, toasted chopped nuts or chocolate chips into the batter. To vary the flavor, substitute hazelnut, pistachio or pecan flour for half of the almond flour. *Almond flour, sometimes referred to as almond meal, can be found at Jay International Foods, Trader Joe’s, Whole Foods Market and many local grocery stores in the baking aisle. Natural or blanched nut flours can be used interchangeably.

Note: These tea cakes are an exception to the rule to not refrigerate leftover baked goods.

Leaving them at room temperature for too long will make them crusty and dry.

Yield | 12 to 14 mini cakes |

Pastry chef Christy Augustin owns Pint Size Bakery & Coffee (opening soon) in Lindenwood Park. Learn more about her and her baked goods at pintsizebakery.com.

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4 Tbsp ¾ cup ¼ cup

¼ tsp ¼ cup 1 Tbsp 1 tsp

3 1 pinch

unsalted butter confectioners’ sugar unbleached all-purpose flour baking powder almond flour* honey dark rum or vanilla extract large egg whites, divided kosher salt

Strawberry-Tarragon Shortcakes When I was growing up, strawberry shortcake at my house was made with Twinkies! Little did I know then that from-scratch shortcake is as easy as making a cream scone. This is an adaptation of a recipe by James

Beard for a traditional English scone he learned from his mother.

Serves | 8 | 2 cups

½ tsp 2 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp

½ tsp

1 cup 2 Tbsp

2 Tbsp

unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting kosher salt granulated sugar baking powder finely chopped fresh tarragon freshly ground black pepper heavy cream unsalted butter, melted coarse sugar, such as Sugar In The Raw fresh strawberries whipped cream

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 375ºF. In a large mixing bowl, add flour through pepper and whisk to combine. Add heavy cream and stir with spatula or wooden spoon just until uniformly moistened, being careful not to overmix. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead lightly 2 to 3 times. Roll or pat into a circle, approximately 8 inches in diameter and ½-inch thick. Using a chef’s knife, cut the circle into 8 uniform wedges. Transfer the wedges to a sheet tray lined with parchment. Baste the tops of the wedges with melted butter and sprinkle with sugar. Bake in a 375ºF oven for about 15 minutes, until golden-brown. Remove from oven and cool slightly. Split the shortcakes and top with strawberries and whipped cream.

| Variations | Not into tarragon?

No problem. Other herbs, such as sweet basil or rosemary, would work great. If you want to make this recipe as a sweet scone, omit the herbs and black pepper and add 1 Tbsp fresh orange zest and 1 to 2 drops orange flower water for a refreshing alternative.

Note: These scones can be frozen before or after baking. If frozen before, don’t defrost; simply bake straight from the freezer. To make your own delicious, lightly sweetened whipped cream, beat 1 cup heavy cream with 2 Tbsp confectioners’ sugar and ¼ tsp vanilla extract until peaks form.

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We Are Cooking Up Savings AT LONDOFF CHEVROLET! Share Your Favorite Recipes with us on Facebook or visit us at

hicken C n a s e ys m r Pa e. Mimi, the bo f family favorit of l. nd ea m Lo e a th is to is ala Londofffour sons and I love to cook anThdeealetmtoongeythvierna. Thigrette really adds a brightness

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HOt Pots Written by Andrew Mark Veety

Photography by Jonathan Gayman

korea houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kimchee jjigae

the communal act of gathering around a hot pot â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an intensely flavorful stew prepared in a single vessel â&#x20AC;&#x201C; is a ritual that stretches back a millennium. It represents the ebb and flow of crosscultural influences and the culinary traditions of Mongolia, China and, ultimately, all of Asia.

Despite the variations in style, ingredients and preparation, hot pots start with a foundation of rich broth, the base for a dish that slowly evolves as it reduces. The dish is fortified with bite-sized portions of raw vegetables and meat that simmer until cooked perfectly. Hot pot dining is collaborative, interactive, ever-changing and always soul-satisfying as a meal to be shared with others. We rounded up five great examples of the traditional dish from a cross section of Asian restaurants throughout the St. Louis area.

mandarin houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s three-cup chicken hot pot

Korea House kimchee jjigae

pictured on p. 70

Kimchee jjigae is a simple yet delicious Korean comfort food, a stew of ripened and pungent kimchee and its fermenting liquid, silken tofu, slices of pork that have been seared with chiles, and beef broth. The stew is made in the kitchen and delivered bubbling in a stone pot to the table. Diners can request a particular spice level when ordering. But the stew is best when aromatic and spicy kimchee is paired with a healthy addition of savory gochujang, a paste of fermented red chile powder and soybeans.

Interestingly, contrast in flavor and texture doesn’t come from the addition of tofu and pork, which marry with the stew during cooking, but from an assortment of small dishes, called banchan, that serve as both appetizers and accoutrements to the meal. Kongnamul – sprouted soybeans – are simple yet crisp, a stark contrast to stewed kimchee. A bit of miyeok muchim – seaweed with vinegar – offers cooling relief from the spice of the hot pot. Kongjaban – black beans – are sweet, nutty and perfect for a palate-cleansing bite between sips of devilishly spicy jjigae.

1261 Castillons Arcade Plaza, Creve Coeur 314.878.8893

Mandarin House

three-cup chicken hot pot

pictured opposite

On the surface, sanbeiji, or three-cup chicken, is a Taiwanese favorite and a deceptively simple dish. Sections of bone-in, dark-meat chicken and ginger are simmered in equal parts of soy sauce, rice wine and sesame oil – the three cups – until the cooking liquid reduces into a rich sauce. The chicken – roughly chopped into silver-dollar-sized pieces and stewed, crisped and caramelized as the sauce comes together – holds the key to the culinary deception by remaining moist with a finish that suggests it was flash-fried in a wok.

Mandarin House prepares sanbeiji in the kitchen and serves it tableside, still sizzling from the high heat used to cook the dish. The chicken is topped with a few leaves of basil that disappear quickly but flavor the dish prominently, cutting through the sweet and savory sauce. Variation in shape between one section of chicken and the next can make eating a challenge at the start. Make use of the bone that runs through most pieces of the chicken; it offers a stable platform for grabbing with chopsticks.

Diners looking for an additional level of flavor – and a hit of heat – will find that spicy Chinese mustard makes the perfect companion for this unique hot pot.

9150 Overland Plaza, Overland 314.427.8070 stlouismandarinhouse.com

Nippon Tei sukiyaki

pictured on p. 74

An order of sukiyaki – a traditional Japanese hot pot – will arrive at your table in two parts. The first will be a burner and a small metal pot filled with a sweet mixture of broth, soy sauce, mirin, ginger and sugar. The second is a large, lacquered bento-style box overflowing with meat, vegetables, tofu, udon and an egg.

Your server will light the burner for your table, and once the broth reaches a slow simmer, you can begin to add vegetables – carrots, spinach, scallions, bean sprouts, broccoli, zucchini and mushrooms – a few at a time to cook in the pot. A moment Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

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nippon teiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sukiyaki

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Prime New York Strip enhanced by a delicious brandy peppercorn sauce, fresh salad, creamy garlic mashed potatoes and Rose Bud Salad.

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Don't forget to top off your meal with our rich and flavorful cheesecake.

South County 12670 Lamplighter Sq.

(314) 842-5600

Conveniently located in Kirkwood Dinner Hours: Tues.-Sat. 5 p.m.

www.noshave.com Like Us On Facebook for Deals!

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133 West Clinton Place St. Louis, MO 63122 314-965-9005 www.citizenkanes.com

Expires 4/30/12

The Freshest...The Healthiest Olive Oils & More features 100% Extra Virgin Olive Oil of the highest quality. Our aged Balsamic vinegars are thick and delicious with dozens of varieties and wonderful flavors from which to choose.

Stop by our shop and enjoy a sample...try before you buy!

Monthly Pairing Classes offered, call or visit for more information.

Mention this ad for 15% OFF your purchase! %&-3 :' :?6?" <#=?" %.+* $- , (/96!/@;>88"* 70 , -%)'-.-1-1. , 999'#8>;"#>8@?#!"64/5#!"'2#5

Get Involved with Your Meal You will enjoy custom classes and individual instruction on all aspects of cooking.

Enjoy private and small group cooking classes with Chef Nate Bonner in his professional kitchen.

Participation during class is encouraged, but not required.

Chef Nate's Table also offers a variety of choices for accommodating your private party needs.

Everything from a birthday dinner to serious business meetings, or a night out with friends Chef Nate's Table is at your service.

See our website for class schedule and registration.

Call 314.825.5398 to enroll.

www.chefnatestable.com

Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

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lu lu seafood restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sichuan-style sole fish fillet and vermicelli

later, add a bit of tofu and a slice or two of flank steak, which will overcook quickly if you don’t tend the pot. Save the thick and chewy udon until the rest of the ingredients have been eaten, allowing the noodles to cook in the resulting rich broth.

There are two schools of thought when it comes to adding the egg. In Japan, the egg is cracked into a bowl, beaten and used raw as a dipping sauce for cooked meats and vegetables. A second – and more common – option is to crack the egg into the simmering broth, which will slowly poach the egg. Once the egg is cooked, use a chopstick to break the egg and slowly stir it into the broth, where it will thicken the liquid and add a silky contrast to the texture of steak and noodles.

14025 Manchester Road, Ballwin 636.386.8999 nippontei-stl.com

Lu Lu Seafood Restaurant sichuan-style sole fish fillet and vermicelli pictured opposite

Authentic Sichuan dishes are known for their layer upon layer of heat, which never should be taken lightly. Those willing to brave the fire, however, will be rewarded with memorable meals and a lifelong love of – perhaps an obsession with – the cuisine of China’s Sichuan Province.

Although spicy chiles impart depth of flavor – in the form of whole fruits, pastes and oil – the heart of Lu Lu’s standout hot pot belongs to firm yet delectably tender cuts of sole, a fish sure to appeal to lovers of Western seafood stews. Stir the chile and minced garlic topping with your ladle before dishing out a serving of spicy and complex broth into your cup. Savor a spoonful or two before adding additional ingredients and getting lost in the heady combination of leek, onion, cabbage and deep-sea flat fish.

Vermicelli – thin, almost translucent noodles stained crimson from the broth – are perfect for slurping. So arm yourself with a napkin or two and don’t be bashful as you eat them. The payoff is well worth any dry-cleaning costs.

8224 Olive Blvd., University City 314.997.3108 luluseafood.com

Mai Lee

canh chua dau hu

pictured on p. 78

For diners looking for an introduction to Vietnamese cuisine, there may be no better dish to start with than canh chua dau hu: sour soup with tofu. Served tableside, the flaming hot pot is both dinner and a show, a beautiful dish to gaze upon and to eat.

The flavors of this soup originate from distinct and sometimes contrasting layers, starting with a broth of tamarind, lemon grass and chiles. Chunks of pineapple, slices of tomato, okra and elephant ears come next, simmering slowly in the broth and deepening its flavor as the liquid reduces from the heat of the pot. A final layer rises out of the broth, a crown of golden tofu that is simultaneously crisp and airy. Take a bite or two of tofu early in your meal and savor its playful texture before it absorbs the broth and, eventually, sinks into the soup.

8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood 314.645.2835 maileerestaurant.com Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

77

check it out!

Feast extra

mai leeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s canh chua dau hu

Follow us on Facebook (facebook.com/ feastSTL) and Twitter (@feastmag) during the month of April as we explore more sizzling pan-Asian hot pots found throughout St. Louis!

career education

Join City of Ellisville to Remove Bush Honeysuckle at Bluebird Park from 9 to 12 pm

Train to become a

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Homemade Greek Food

A good career could be in YOUR future!

Carry out • Catering • Private Parties

Gyros • Kebobs • Baklava Ask about our NEW programs!

OLYMPIA KEBOB HOUSE AND TAVERNA 7 days a week from 11am

Text MYMOCO to 78573 or call

1543 McCausland • 314-781-1299

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225 Kiefer Creek Road, Ballwin, MO 63021

Missouri College does not guarantee employment or salary. CEC2376352–08/10

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314-968-0061 • 34 Old Orchard South,

Webster Groves, MO •Hwy61Roadhouse.com

TREAT YOURSELF TO MORE THAN ¦(( WINES AT A WEEKLONG CULINARY ADVENTURE FOR WINE AND FOOD ENTHUSIASTS IN COLUMBIA, MO.

YŠ: '¦ * '¢, &('& Monday, May 14

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Thursday, May 17

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at Inside Columbia’s Culinary Adventures Center

at four local restaurants

Tuesday, May 15

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Friday, May 18

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at the Holiday Inn Expo Center

Wednesday, May 16

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at four local restaurants

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at the Holiday Inn Executive Center

Saturday, May 19

at 20 locations in downtown Columbia

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Inspired Food Culture

APRIL 2012

79

Need the perfect wine for the patio or outdoor concert?

Need the perfect system to keep you comfortable indoors?

www.weiscomfort.com

Instant rebates up to $1000

Visit our store in Kirkwood and for our tastings & classes just

on a Dave Lennox Signature System.

Call us for a free estimate • 636-343-8440

The Premier Getaway Experience Tara Point is located just 12 National Scenic Byway miles upriverfrom Alton, atop a bluff overlooking the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers. Many say it’s the most beautiful view in the Midwest.

All Inn & Cottage Suites have great river Views.

The Inn has two Riverside rooms plus the Delta Queen Suite.

Suite includes Sitting Room & Whirlpool Bath.

Three Cottages have a total of eight suites, all have a den with fireplaces. Bedrooms all have king size beds & Whirlpool Baths.

Come view our Award Winning Sunsets!

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Tara Point Inn Tara Point Cottages

Box 1 • Grafton, IL 62037 • www.tarapoint.com • For Brochure or Reservations: (618) 786-3555 • Fax: (618) 786-3255

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CLASSIFIEDS Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis ACCOUNTING/TAXES CPA FIRM FOR SMALL BUSINESSES Affordable Accounting, Tax, Payroll & Guidance Solutions.

Call Tom at 314-448-4264 or Email: tom@tomdunncpa.com

HANDYMAN SERVICES BRIAN THE HANDYMAN All Indoor & Outdoor Home Repair, Carpentry, Leaky Faucets & More.

Licensed & Insured Brian 314-345-0181

HEALTHCARE SERVICES

AUTOMOTIVE

CLEANING SERVICES CLEAN AS A WHISTLE Affordable Cleaning for Any Budget Weekly, Bi-weekly, Monthly, Move-in & Move Out $10 OFF New Customers Insured & Bonded Member of BBB Satisfaction Guaranteed Family Owned & Operated Call 314-426-3838 TWO LADIES & A BUCKET Two Are Better Than One! Deep & Thorough Cleaning Service Please Contact Susie Duncan at: 314-229-1736 www.twoandabucket.com

FLOORING/TILE WOOD FLOOR REFINISHING 25-yr. Old Fully Insured Company.

Sanding, Refinishing, Repairs, New Installation. Free Estimates.

Angie's List "A" rating & BBB PROFESSIONAL FLOORS OF ST. LOUIS 314-843-4348 www.profloorstl.com

HANDYMAN SERVICES KEN'S HANDYMAN SERVICE Carpentry, Electrical, Plumbing, Painting, Gutter Cleaning and Hauling. Over 25 Yrs. Exp. Ref's. Insured.

Call Ken 314-567-6900

Outdoors Solutions

Landscape Design & Installation, Retaining Walls, Paver Patios.

Drainage & Pruning

636-296-5050 Free Estimate

ST. LOUIS CAR MUSEUM & SALES Now offering Upholstery Services for Your Classic, Antique, Custom and Special Interest Autos Contact Kevin @ 314.993.1330 Or Kevin@stlouiscarmuseum.com AUTOMOBILE & MOTORCYCLE STORAGE The Finest in Climate Controlled Storage Close to Clayton and Ladue 314-993-1330 or Kevin@stlouiscarmuseum.com I BUY RUNNING USED CARS Buying with Integrity for Over 30 Years Cash Paid On The Spot Call Sam 314-302-2008

LAWN & GARDEN

Home Helpers is your #1 source affordable, dependable care for all ages by compassionate caregivers.

•

RN Supervised

•

Meal Preparation

Housekeeping Errands • Recuperative Care •

• Bathing/Personal Care •

On Call 24/7 Insured/Bonded and Carefully Screened

314.961.1002 636.391.0000

www.homehelpersstl.com COLLEGE DEGREED CAREGIVERS provide care and companionship.

Why accept less? A competitively priced option. Care manager/clinical staff available. AAA screened/bonded.

Preferred choice since 1987.

StaffLink/Gretchen 314-477-3434 VISITING ANGELS 24/7 Companion Care for Seniors.

Personal Care, Meal Prep, Light Housekeeping & Peace of Mind.

314-569-9890

HOME IMPROVEMENT SPRING CLEAN UPS! ï Mowing & Fertilization ï Landscape Design ï Sod & Drainage Work ï Retaining Walls ï Paver Patios ï Mole Trapping ï Bobcat Work Fast Free Estimates OUTDOOR SOLUTIONS 636-296-5050

PRECISION REMODELING Since 1990 - Interior & Exterior We Are Here For All Your Home Improvement Needs & Repairs.

Free Estimates! Fully Insured.

Call Bob (314) 799-4633 or Jim (314) 799-4630

A-LINE ELECTRIC

Residential & Commercial Industrial Electrical Work Insured ï Licensed Alen 314-783-4888 alineelectric@yahoo.com

GARDEN SHERPA Let Us Install Your Organic Vegetable Garden.

Horticulturist/Permaculturist.

Call (314) 962-7853 For More Information.

PAINTING JC PAINTS Interior/Exterior Painting Reliable, Clean & Reasonable.

Insured.

Call John for a free estimate 314-703-2794

PET SERVICES

The Well Behaved Pet ...is training for all YOUR

pets needs. Specialize in New Puppy, Puppy Mill Rescue Dogs or behavioral problems. I do home training to fit intoYOUR lifestyle!

Call me, I can help!

Call LAURA 636-456-9993 Pick up & Delivery Available

REAL ESTATE FOR SALE LAKE MICHIGAN Waterfront Homes for Sale Go To www.Andreacrossman.com or Call 616-355-6387 Andrea Crossman

VACATION RENTALS

RUGS FRENCHTOWN RUG CLEANING ORIENTAL/AREA RUGS FREE PICK UP & DELIVERY (636) 949-0753 www.frenchtownrugcleaning.com

SERVICES

We Fix Leaky Chimneys We do more than Sweep Chimneys • Tuckpointing • Brick Work • Chimney Covers • Replace Rusted Chimney tops • Gas logs • Glass Doors • Airduct Cleaning • Dryer Vent

Visit our website For Discounts

englishsweep.com 636.391.2226

$ CASH 4 OLD STUFF $ ————Light Hauling———— We Cleanup, Haul Away and/or purchase: Garage, Estate and Moving Sales!

Also, Warehouse, Business & Storage Locker Leftovers!

FAY FURNITURE 618-271-8200 AM BRIAN'S HAULING "U Name & We Haul It" 7 Days a Week - Same Day Appliances, Brush, Clean Outs, Demo, Basement & Garage, Etc. Brian 314-740-1659 ALLEN'S HAULING SERVICE 15, 20 and 30 Yard Trash Containers.

Hauling Service.

No Job Too Big Or Small.

Any Type of Trash Removal.

314-621-0481 or 581-7274

TREES TREES TRIMMED & REMOVED

GILLS

TREE SERVICE •Stone Retaining Walls •Stump Grinding •Bucket Truck Service

(636) 274-1378 Insured TUCKPOINTING

All Tuck Pointing Basement Work Chimney Repair Painting Carpentry Repair Caulking Step Repair Foundation Roofing New/Repair Waterproofing All Work Guaranteed DON 314-865-0558 A+ Rating with B.B.B.

GULF COAST HOUSE OR CONDO Carillon Beach, FL, Destin Area 3BR, 3BA, Beach House or Condo.

Carillon has 3 pools, tennis courts and so much more! Avail. thru 2011.

Call Dave at 314-922-8344 Great Rates.

For Pictures Please Visit www.vrbo.com/148365 or /127089 REGENTS PARK LONDON Modern 2 Bedroom Apartment.

Convenient for Museums, Shopping, Theater. Wireless Internet Access.

Highly Recommended!

Call 314-569-2009

WANTED COLLECTOR WISHES TO PURCHASE Gun Collections â Old and New Antiques of Any Type Fishing Tackle Call Steve Lapin 314-571-9427 GUNS WANTED Licensed Federal Firearms Dealer Top Price Paid ï Any Condition YOU COME TO US OR WE'LL COME TO YOU 636-233-4544 Ask For MARK I BUY POSTCARDS! Stereoviews, Old Photographs, Documents, Letterheads, Movie Photos, Advertising, World's Fair, Railroad, Military, Political, Nautical & More.

Mike 314-524-9400 OLD RECORDS WANTED Experienced Collector Pays Cash for Your Record Collection.

45 RPM, 78 RPM and 33.3 RPM. Rock, Soul, Jazz. House Calls Made.

Call Kurt for info. 314-324-0521

WANTED

QUALITY CHINESE ANTIQUES: furniture, snuff bottles, bronze, ivory, and jade.

314-503-4847

YOUR SOURCE FOR THE FINEST

• Maine Lobsters • Jumbo Lump Crabmeat • Dry-Packed Scallops • Jumbo Shrimp • Smoked Salmon • Wide Selection of Oysters & Fish

314.993.4844

8660 OLIVE IN U CITY

FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978! bobsseafoodstl.com

Inspired Food Culture

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81

MEET & GREET

Kerry Soraci Owner, I Scream Cakes written by Pat Eby

Artist Kerry Soraci’s quirky ice cream creations aren’t the typical roses-andribbons cake you’d find for Aunt Edna’s 80th birthday. If Auntie likes Elvis, however, Soraci can deliver the King, down to the sneer, in cake and ice cream.

Soraci creates gory zombie prom queens, monsters and aliens. Flowers range from ethereal beauties that are hauntingly white to in-your-face designs that are neon-bright. Heart-shaped cakes with banners and motorcycle-riding skeletons reference the tattoos she still inks a few days each week.

As a teen, she worked at Baskin-Robbins and learned that ice cream, like clay, can be worked into endless imaginative shapes. When a cycling accident sidelined Soraci in 2005, art, baking and ice cream merged. The thank-you cakes she sent to folks who helped her recover turned into a business.

Photography by J. Pollack Photography

Soraci sculpts playfully, but she’s serious about the food she sells, from the organic ingredients and all-natural flavorings to her compostable cartons. With gluten-free cakes, vegan ice cream and lower-sugar fruit sorbets, she caters to health-conscious customers.

At her Cherokee Street shop, she sells her ice cream by the carton or the scoop in flavors such as Brown-Buttered Pear, Super-Natural Strawberry, and Black and Tan – a chocolate-Guinness ice cream marbled with a malted brown-butterBass pale ale ice cream. And the shop’s walls and ceilings are painted with Soraci’s colorful designs – just another treat by this noticeably talented artist.

I Scream Cakes, 2641 Cherokee St., Cherokee Business District iscreamcakes.com

Cat: yellow cake with peanut butter ‘n’ chocolate ice cream

Sushi: yellow cake with blueberry cheesecake and vanilla ice creams

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Pig: chocolate cake with orange-habanerochocolate ice cream

Zombie Easter Bunny: yellow cake with Black and Tan ice cream

Missouri's #1 Automotive Group There Can Only Be One #1 Source, bureau of Missouri Automotive registration 2011.

MISSOURI'S #1 INFINITI RETAILER** WITH MISSOURI'S LARGEST INVENTORY**

You Will Get Your Best Value At Bommarito Infiniti

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INFINITI West County

SALES - SERVICE - PARTS - COLLISION REPAIR

15736 Manchester at Clarkson Rd. • (636) 391-9400 • 800-367-2289 www.BommaritoInfiniti.com

*24 mo. lease -10,000 miles per year. Tax, title, license, acquisition fee extra. $2,995 down cash or trade. First payment due at signing Includes lease loyalty for qualified buyers. **Based On 2011 Sales Summary Infiniti Motor Division, Nissan North America.