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bowled over

rise to the occasion

ditch the dip

party punch

4 seasons bakery

office potluck

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

ELEVATED SEASONAL COOKING

feastSTL.com | DECEMBER 2011 | FREE


Entertaining With Cheese!

Our selection of specialty cheeses rivals any cheese shop. Stop by our Deli and you’ll find everything from award-winning American artisan cheeses to European classics. Create your own cheese plate or enjoy in your favorite recipes for tasteful holiday entertaining!

Š2011 Schnucks


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Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

3


Where Friends and Family Meet…

St. Charles Best Kept Secret... TUBBY'S PUB & GRUB Located inside PLAZA LANES has Steak Specials for $12.99 Tuesday - Rib Eye, Wednesday - Fillet & Thursday - Strip Lunch: Monday -Friday 11AM - 2PM Dinner: Tuesday - Saturday 4PM - 10PM

636-925-1033

Eat In • Carry Out Banquet Facility • Catering Available

PLAZA LANES Family Fun, Parties and Leagues Newly Renovated Bowling Center

506 Droste St. Charles, MO

636-724-1350

Authentic Chinese Cuisine Since 1979 Authentic Chinese Cuisine Since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

2009 Caymus Special Selection "Temptingly rich and layered, with complex mocha, plum and wild berry fruit that’s spicy and aromatic. Full-bodied, gaining depth and turning ever more elegant and detailed, with tannins that give this traction. Drink now through 2019." 93 Points

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Veuve Clicquot Brut Champagne

Clicquot's signature non-vintage Brut is loved all over the world for its Vineyards Wine & Spirits crisp, full flavors, consistent quality and celebratory yellow label. 636-519-WINE This classical dry Champagne is a blend of two-thirds black grapes www.vineyardswine.com (Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) for body, balanced with one-third Chardonnay for elegance. It has a fine persistent sparkle and golden Like us on Facebook to Champagne color. receive more discounts.

Celebrate Your Heritage The German Way Glühwein & Feuerzangenbowle Authentic German Cuisine, Bier, Wine, Gemütlichkeit!

Set your sights on Christmas lights and join us for a season of cheers with Bavarian Food, Wine and Biers. Celebrate Christmas with authentic Bavarian specialties. Braised Duck, old fashion Potato Dumplings, Festbier Roast, Red Cabbage, Spatzle, Wurst Sampler, Schnitzel, Apple Strudel, and Kuechle. Bring the family, create memories and taste the warmth of the season with Gluehwein and Feuerzangenbowle. We tap the keg and open the bottle; come and toast to the season with Dulcimer Music and Gemuetlichkeit. Please call for music schedule and reservations.

Frohe Weihnachten Reserve your Holiday Party now.

Tues-Fri 11-2 & 5-9, Sat & Sun 5-9 &1&. -23;48"% 9<' / -6>2$:<6=+ 70 ,&)(.,,(1))1 / !$"5"!<$#*82'2$5 4

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CENTERPIECE

desserts 62

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

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6

feastSTL.com

DECEMBER 2011

RIVERCITY.COM

RASPBERRY CREAM CAKE

Tim Brennan’s is at the top of our holiday wish list this year.


Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

57

LUXE for less DECEMBER 2011 FROM THE STAFF

| 10 |

FEASTSTL.COM

What’s online this month.

| 12 |

FROM THE PUBLISHER

Here’s to decadent dishes!

| 14 |

FEAST FAVES

Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis. COLUMNS

| 28 |

MY STUFF

Grab a bite with Blues City Deli’s Vince Valenza.

| 31 |

RISE and SHINE with

4 Seasons Bakery

40

GADGET A-GO-GO

We test bar tools under $30.

| 32 |

ON THE SHELF

New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 34 |

MYSTERY SHOPPER

Buy it and try it: black walnut oil.

| 36 |

TECH SCHOOL

Add a little zing to your dishes with preserved lemons.

| 38 |

EASY EATS

Bread pudding goes savory.

| 74 |

PULL UP A CHAIR

Gather ‘round the holiday table on the Davies Bench. COVER PHOTOGRAPHY OF CHOCOLATE-MINT CAKE (PG 62) BY Jennifer Silverberg

K holiday U C 46 L T P O with punch!

Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

7


$229 for Two! $59 per guest for dinner only, beverages, taxes & gratuity not included

Magazine Volume 2

| Issue 12 | December 2011

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor Brandi Wills Online Editor Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Triefenbach Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editor Jill Pfeiffer Proofreader Andrea Mongler Videographer Hannah Radcliff

2011 NEW YEAR’S EVE DOWNTOWN DINNER & HOTEL PACKAGE Four Course Dinner for Two at Mosaic - Downtown Complimentary Entrance to NYE Party at Mosaic Lounge Veuve Clicquot, by the glass - $10, bottle - $60 One Night at The Renaissance St. Louis Grand Hotel w/ Complimentary Self Parking New Year’s Day Breakfast for Two at Hotel & Late 1PM Checkout on January 1st Contact Nadia for Reservations: 314.369.7639 nadia@mosaicrestaurants.com www.enjoymosaic.com

Contributing Writers Tim Brennan, Erin Callier, Russ Carr, Heidi Dean, Pat Eby Chad Michael George, Jennifer Johnson, Angela Komis Angela Ortmann, Lucy Schnuck, Matt Seiter, Michael Sweeney D. Scott Tjaden, Cassandra Vires Contributing Photographers Jonathan Gayman, Gregg Goldman, Michael Jacob Laura Ann Miller, Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg Corey Woodruff

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Susan Eckert, 314.340.8587 ads@feastSTL.com Editorial Comments editor@feastSTL.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2011 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

no refunds on cancellations on/after 12/28 8

feastSTL.com

DECEMBER 2011

A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC A Lee Enterprises Company


Fresh-Baked Petit Fours INDIVIDUAL WORKS OF ART MAKE ENTERTAINING EFFORTLESS ORDER YOURS PLAZA FRONTENEC | 32 MARYLAND PLAZA 314.367.9750 | WWW.BISSINGERS.COM

Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

9


ONLINE CONTENT

www.feastSTL.com

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

The Feed

Online Exclusives

This Month’s Feast

Watch & Listen

Feast Events

Recipes

HEAD OUT FOR THE HOLIDAYS: EveryThursday, our out-onthe-town columnist Amy Burdge pairs seasonal festivities (like Tilles Park’s Winter Wonderland carriage rides) with great places to grab a bite beforehand (like Filomena’s Italian Kitchen, pictured). PHOTOGRAPHY BY J. POLLACK PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTOGRAPHY BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

ONLINE FEATURES

CHECK OUT THESE BUNS: St. Louis restaurants have made the often-overlooked hamburger bun so much more than a mechanism for meat to mouth. Columnist Andrew Mark Veety brings you some of the best in town, including the housemade white bun on the burgers at Range (pictured).

PUCKER UP: Tech School chef Cassy Vires steers you through lemon preservation in her monthly cooking demo.

CONNECT WITH US Connect with us at facebook.com/feastSTL to stay on top of happenings at FEAST Central and connect with fellow foodies. Scan this tag to LIKE us right now!

BEHIND THE SCENES

STEP UP YOUR SWEETS: From white-chocolate curls to a zuccotto dome, Tim Brennan of Cravings deconstructs stunning holiday sweets in a special how-to video series for this month’s Centerpiece Desserts, p. 62.

Follow us at twitter.com/feastmag for up-to-the-minute restaurant news, special deals, FEAST events and more. Scan this tag to FOLLOW us right now! Get the free app at gettag.mobi

10

feastSTL.com

DECEMBER 2011


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Join us on New Year's Eve for only $20.12!

Holiday Gift Certificates • Buy $50 in gift certificates, get $5 free • Buy $100, get $20 free • Buy $200 get $50 free

• Price includes your choice of any item from our menu. • $5 towards your bar tab. • Pay no cover. • Live Music by "Blues & More" • Free Party Favors and Hurricane Toast at Midnight. HOLIDAY GIFT CERTIFICATES Deal good thru 12/24/11

314-968-0061

34 Old Orchard South, Webster Groves, MO Hwy61Roadhouse.com

This Christmas put some money in your stocking! ÚöZ€ï «P!\ýº ýX »ûûýöïê!Pï¹ ïý Þ!S€!^Z ¹ýêö ÜP!€!^P€F ÜöZZ\ý# M05j E0 2 + (j) d $j b5.+0$jl 2l +j ž o_ l0Ë2 (0 2j + db)(0+bo ]j$j])ñ Kh Ç0&!+j (b+jl 0h žjb2f a&)( 20(dj+ 2&5žj+ ( 02j 0h (dj Šbf Š 2_)ö fb$j &) o ]]` ‡055j+ob ] Š 2_ b) ]0o ]]Ç 0Ë2jl ‡055&2b(Ç Š 2_ Ëdj+j j$j+Çž0lÇ _20Ë) Ç0&+ 2 5j` Ýj d $j )j+$jl (dj å(ñ E0&b) +j h0+ 0$j+ Ìî Çj +) 2l ]00_ h0+Ë +l (0 )j+$b2f Ç0& b2 (dj h&(&+j`

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Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

11


FROM THE PUBLISHER

PS

feaST eVeNTS

Feast Your Eyes Sat., Dec. 3, 12:30pm; Contemporary Art Museum

This free program invites you into the museum for a tasting prepared in response to the exhibitions, the artist, or specific artwork and paired with local wine and cocktails.

T

his time of year, food takes center stage. At gatherings from now ‘til New Year’s, folks will be showing off their

culinary chops, so we’ve packed this issue with eats and drinks worthy of a celebration. Even the ho-hum office holiday party gets a flavorful update (p. 46). Ditch the sticky processed-cheese dip in favor of chef Angela Komis’ creative and easy crowd-pleasing make-ahead mains, each paired with a super simple, super delicious punch by mixologist Matt Seiter. Don’t be surprised if your co-workers anoint you employee of the month. And pastries are a challenge for many of us, but a holiday table doesn’t seem complete without some type of too-beautiful-to-eat confection. Check out our feature, Centerpiece Desserts (p. 62). Even if you’re not a confident cook, we’ve ensured you’ll be able to tackle these techniques. In our video series with Tim Brennan, Cravings’ owner and pastry chef, we show you exactly how to achieve beautifully professional results. You’ll be surprised how easy it is to make a show-stopper. Stuffed Cornish game hens (p. 38), 4 Seasons Bakery’s winter-morning pastries (p. 40) and surprisingly simple preserved lemons (p. 36) round out our decadent December issue. As you flip through the magazine, I hope the ideas we’ve gathered help make your holiday delicious.

Bartender’s Charity Ball Mon., Dec. 5, 8pm to 1am; Hyatt Regency-St. Louis $75, bartenderscharityball.org or 314.531.9465

Join FEAST for this “culinary showcase for a cause” to benefit Cardinal Glennon Children’s Hospital and Food Outreach. A premium open bar, casino auction and gourmet plates from six great restaurants make this an event where you’ll “fill your belly and feed your soul.”

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Thu., Dec. 8, 7pm; Left Bank Books Downtown RSVP to editor@feastSTL.com

Join local cookie book author Julia Usher for a demonstration of the tips and techniques found in her new book, Julia M. Usher’s Ultimate Cookies. Ask this cookie expert all your burning questions, and pick up a few signed copies of the books to give as gifts. Purchase your book from Left Bank Books in advance or at the event and get 20 percent off.

L’Ecole Academy Cake Decorating Class Tue., Dec. 13; L’Ecole Academy for Culinary Development $160, lecoleacademy.com or 314.264.1999

If you want to create cakes as beautiful as those featured in Centerpiece Desserts, this class is a must. Learn everything from making buttercream to perfect piping techniques.

Wine Tasting Thu., Dec. 15, 6 to 7pm; Home Wine Kitchen Complimentary, rsvp@stlwinegirl.com

Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a food-andwine tasting at Home Wine Kitchen.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Thu., Dec. 28, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School

Until next time,

$45, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Get hands-on and make the Cornish hens with savory bread pudding featured on page 38.

10th Annual St. Louis Food & Wine Experience Catherine Neville

Sat., Jan. 28 and Sun., Jan. 29, noon to 5pm; The Chase Park Plaza Hotel repstl.org or 314.968.4925

Celebrate the artistry of fine food and wine at the largest international wine and food show in the Midwest.

Oceania Luxury Culinary Cruise altairtravelinc.com or 314.968.9600

Join publisher Catherine Neville on a 10-day luxury cruise from Istanbul to Venice with ports of call ranging from Ephesus to Athens. feedback?

catherine@feastSTL.com 12

feastSTL.com

DECEMBER 2011

PHOTOGRAPHy By Jonathan Gayman

May 6 to 17, 2012, from $3,799 per person


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Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

13


FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

Range

Grass-fed beef, house-baked buns, scratch-made ice cream … this is comfort food done right. At Range, David bailey’s latest entry into the local scene, classic American fare sees a creative and playful reinterpretation. The AbC burger melds roasted apples with bacon and Camembert. A chicken patty takes center stage in the Thai and is topped with peanut sauce, daikon slaw, shredded cabbage and cilantro aÏoli. bison fans will love the Pb&J (pictured), where tomato jam, goat cheese and arugula dress up a bison patty. Dip your crisp fries into sauces ranging from honey mustard to Crazy Catsup. Smoked onion rings, Marcoot Jersey Creamery cheese curds, big salads and creamy shakes, plus the most comprehensive selection of soda we’ve seen yet, all add up to another hit for bailey and another great spot to dine in Downtown St. Louis. – C.N. 920 Olive St., Downtown baileysrange.com

14

feastSTL.com

DECEMBER 2011

Downtown

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman

grazing at range

314.241.8121


FEAST FAVES / s e C r e t I n g r e d I e n t FEAST FAVES | what we’re drInkIng

NORTHEAST ITALY’S SPARKLING WINES

McArthur’s for the Holidays Special Days q and Everyday!

WEDDING & PARTY CAKES q DELI & PASTRIES q SEASONAL TREATS & MORE

3055 Lemay Ferry Rd.

SOUTH COUNTY

113 N. Kirkwood Rd.

KIRKWOOD

CHESTERFIELD

Mon. - Sat. 6 am - 7 pm Sun. 7:30 am - 2:30 pm

Mon. - Sat. 7 am - 6:30 pm Sun. 7:30 am - 2:30 pm

Mon. - Sat. 7 am - 6:30 pm Sun. 7:30 am - 2:30 pm

13700 Olive Blvd.

(314) 894-0900

www.mcarthurs.com “When you want to serve the very best.”

wrITTeN by Jennifer Johnson

Thinking about sparkling wine this holiday season and want to impress? Northeast Italy’s sparkling wines are as diverse as its varied terrain, yet they all share a refreshingly crisp acidity because of the area’s cool continental climate. Centrally located, the Veneto region boasts Prosecco, a subregion, and sparkling wine made from the ancient Prosecco grape. These days, the traditional Champagne grapes Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are often blended with Prosecco. Due west, Trentino-Alto Adige’s sparkling wines have exploded in popularity. This region arguably produces Italy’s finest bubbly, using Champagne’s traditional, painstaking in-bottle production methods. Sparkling wines can enhance just about any food or occasion, so consider opening before, during or after your feast.

FeRRaRI BRut, nV

Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy This wine is just excellent. Juicy Pink Lady apples come to mind, underscored by brioche toast and lemon curd. It’s relatively full-bodied and produced from 100 percent Chardonnay. Don’t hesitate to pair this sparkling wine with an entire holiday meal or with smoked salmon, prosciutto-stuffed pork loin or pear bread pudding. $24.99; Balaban’s Wine Cellar & Tapas Bar, 1772 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, balabanswine.com Secco ItalIan BuBBleS RoSé, nV

Veneto, Italy This lively wine’s generous strawberry and cranberry notes pair delightfully with many different dishes, and its nearly undetectable sweetness rounds out its abundant bubbles while emphasizing a crisp finish. Pair with coconut shrimp, grilled ham and Gouda sandwiches or coconut cake. $11.99; The Vino Gallery, 4701 McPherson Ave., Central West End, thevinogallery.com

#756 !. 0*&3 ,8&*37+ .2$'

%%')' ) "7$(( #*&3 #*&3 1*-,46 Feel the electricity of the holidays as you you waddle through half a million wild lights at the Saint Louis Zoo. Experience chilly Penguin & Puffin Coast, holiday crafts, choirs, storytelling—even ride the Conservation Carousel and visit the Monsanto Insectarium. For more information, call (314) 646-4771 or visit stlzoo.org. Weekends: Through Dec. 11 5:30 – 8:30 p.m. Nightly: Dec. 16 – 23 and Dec. 26 – 30 5:30 – 8:30 p.m. Admission $5 ($4 for Zoo Friends) Kids under two are free.

A St. Louis-based wine and food enthusiast, Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine.

Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

15


FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

refined farm-fresh fare Five bistro is known for its commitment to local ingredients, but its dishes aren’t typical farm-to-table fare. Delicate preparations and sophisticated plating make Five bistro a refined choice. Menu selections depend on the availability of ingredients, and everything is made in-house. Executive chef

Five Bistro

Anthony Devoti tops sweet potato blinis with mildly salty trout caviar made from Troutdale Farm roe and a tuft of Claverach

314.773.5553

Farm micro greens. Pickled cauliflower adds the right tang

The hill

and crunch to balance the dish. Living Water Farms’ romaine is roasted and served in a deeply flavored mushroom-sage broth with benne Farm’s bacon and sweet compressed apple. Angel Acres’ saddle of lamb is served with polenta, brussels sprouts and Claverach Farm field greens. Five bistro also offers a great midweek tasting menu, when $25 gets you three courses. The prix-fixe items change weekly, but past offerings include beet purée with mushroom-goat cheese bread pudding, diver scallops with Claverach Farm Chinese broccoli and daikon radish “kimchi” and a vanilla bean cookie with tomato jam and cinnamon-bourbon gelato. If you’re seeking a special-occasion spot for holiday dining, Five bistro would fit the bill nicely.

– C.N.

5100 Daggett Ave., The Hill

PHOTOGRAPHy by Corey Woodruff

fivebistro.com

FEAST FAVES

| MeeT & greeT

Jody & Taran henSLey Once upon a time, Jody Hensley made goodies in her home kitchen. She hand-wrapped pretzel rods with soft caramel, dipped them in chocolate, rolled them in pecans or walnuts (or striped them with white chocolate) and hawked them at local craft fairs. Daughter Taran knew the sweet and salty pretzels deserved a wider audience, so she worked some marketing magic and rocketed Mom’s Originals into retail stores, PHOTOGRAPHy by

16

J. Pollack Photography

feastSTL.com

DECEMBER 2011

OWnERS OF Mom’s Originals Inc.

WRITTEn by Pat Eby

gourmet events, coffee shops – and celebrity gift bags for TV, movie and music awards (including last year’s Emmys). While Taran promotes their pretzels, Jody oversees production at their facility in Olivette, Mo., making sure every treat has star power. “Her title is Mom, with a capital M,” Taran says. momsoriginals.com


FEAST FAVES / s e C r e t I n g r e d I e n t FEAST FAVES | FOOd stUFF

YUMMY HOST GIFTS Hosts never scoff at the beautiful bottles of wine gifted by their guests, but if you want to stand out this party-going season, try one of these creative host-gift ideas. – B.W.

TAKE TO: COCKTAil pArTiEs

Info @ stanleycigarco.com

TAKE TO: A pOTluCK

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| 1 | Bitter Truth mole bitters, $16.99, and Griottines Kirsch-soaked cherries, $24.99; The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com | 2 | A Dish, In Addition meal with leave-behind casserole dish, price varies for food plus cost of container (containers start at $10); Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine, 1722 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, veritasgateway.com | 3 | Stinger’s honeycomb, $9.29; Local Harvest Grocery, 3108 Morgan Ford Road, Tower Grove South, localharvestgrocery.com PHOTOGRAPHy By Laura Ann Miller

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DECEMBER 2011

17


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feastSTL.com

DECEMBER 2011


FEAST FAVES

| whAT we’re drInkIng

Holiday PuncH STORy ANd RecIPe by Matt Seiter

Punch is the perfect cocktail solution for holiday parties. It’s a classy way to serve drinks all night without being stuck behind the bar. In fact, many of the cocktail classics you know and enjoy started as punches – a community endeavor into the world of inebriated bliss. The word punch stems from the Hindu word panch, meaning five. There are five key elements of a classic punch: strong, sweet, sour, bitter and weak. Not every element needs to be present in a punch recipe, but you want to create a good balance among the ingredients you use. Strong ingredients include base spirits, such as rum, vodka, gin, scotch or whiskey. Sweet elements come from syrups, fruit juices or sugar. Sourness comes from citrus or other tart juices. you can add bitter flavors with aperitifs, amari (Italian herbal liqueurs), Aperol or, of course, bitters. The weakening agents calm the bite of your base spirits and include things like club soda, tonic water, tap water or sodas. you can create your own combination of flavors. Or you can turn your favorite cocktail into a punch by multiplying the recipe proportions by your number of guests and adding an additional third. (you might want to round up, since most people drink a bit more during the holidays.)

Philadelphia Fish house Punch Serves | 10 | 1 lb 8 oz 28 oz 6 oz 3 oz 3 oz ½ oz

sugar lemon juice water Smith & Cross Traditional Jamaican Rum Camus Cognac peach brandy Angostura bitters sliced fruit and berries, for garnish

| Preparation | In large container, dissolve sugar in the lemon juice and

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Laura Ann Miller

water. Add remaining ingredients. Stir and refrigerate for 2 hours. When ready to serve, place a large ice cube (see page 52) in a punch bowl and pour in punch. Garnish with sliced fruit and berries.

check iT ouT!

Go to feastSTL.com for more holiday punch recipes.

FeAST exTRA

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

BArTender knOwLedge The Path to Punch Although the word for punch comes from India, there are no references to making punches for gatherings or celebrations in Indian history or culture. Punch is definitely a european creation. In the waning years of the 1490s, european sailors traversed the globe in search of new passages to the Far east. Along the way, they discovered citrus fruits and exotic herbs and spices. distilled spirits were commonplace amongst these sailors. The idea of adding spices, herbs and citrus to wine or ales wasn’t new. People drank mulled wine, for example, in england before punch existed. but once sailors’ booze from back home ran out, they had to rely on local ingredients. Ingenuity, and the need to pass the time, gave birth to the fabulous drink called punch. – M.S.

Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

19


FEAST FAVES

| deSign TrendS we Love

Spice Mix

Nothing adds warmth and vibrancy to a boring brown-onbrown color scheme better than rich and sensual spice tones. By incorporating glowing oranges, deep reds, lush purples and golden yellows with those basic browns, you can create a definite change without undergoing a dramatic overhaul. Accessorize with soft lighting and reflective surfaces to enhance the warm glow created by the spicy and inviting colors.

Photo courtesy of Osborne & Barr

The best part? When summer rolls around, simply add some lime-green plant life to the orange-hued room for a seasonally appropriate touch of the tropical. – B.W.

20

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DECEMBER 2011


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FEAST FAVES / S ECRET INGREDIENT FEAST FAVES | THE DISH

CONTRIBUTOR’S PICK

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Jennifer Silverberg

FUNGI PIZZE

Jennifer Silverberg

Perhaps it’s our shared New York upbringing – or that chef and owner Vito Racanelli Jr. knows how to cook comforting, flavorful Italian food. Either way, Mad Tomato Italian Kitchen feels like home. Choosing one item from the menu is difficult, but I assure you, you won’t be disappointed if you settle on one of the pizzes. The fungi pizze is my favorite. Made by Vito’s brother Sam in the pizze oven next to the bar, it’s prepared with beautifully fresh mushrooms, smoked mozzarella, garlic, basil, arugula and grana. And please, do yourself a favor: order it with an egg. The silky yolk, earthiness of the mushrooms and subtle spice Mad of the arugula are a delightful Tomato combination that always leaves Italian Kitchen me wanting more. 314.932.5733 CLAYTON See more of Jennifer’s work in Centerpiece Desserts (pg. 62), and head to feastSTL.com to see her photo slide show of this month’s Easy Eats dish.

±NHHNEJMI> ’>MoL swirled red velvet and peppermint sw cake, frosted with a cool vanilla ca m mint buttercream and topped with white chocolate chips and w holiday cheer! h

±:JHLMI µqE6NB> melt in your mouth pumpkin spice cake topped with a perfectly holiday cinnamon buttercream

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CRAVETHECUP.COM CENTRAL WEST END 28 Maryland Plaza Rear St. Louis, MO 63108 314.367.6111

22

feastSTL.com

DECEMBER 2011

EDWARDSVILLE 1057 Century Drive Edwardsville, IL 62025 618.656.2287

8000 Carondelet Ave., Clayton madtomatostl.com


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Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

23


314.993.4844

8660 OLIVE IN U CITY

FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978! bobsseafoodstl.com

BOOTS

• Maine Lobsters • Jumbo Lump Crabmeat • Dry-Packed Scallops • Jumbo Shrimp • Smoked Salmon • Wide Selection of Oysters & Fish

FROM NAOT FOOTWEAR

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HURRY IN! BOOTS SELL OUT FAST

CELEBRATE THE SEASON!! We have that “Something Special” for the Holidays in our Dressy Separates Department

Sole Survivor 25 east main street downtown belleville 618.234.0214

LIFESTYLE APPAREL FOR MEN & WOMEN SINCE 1976

6727 W. Main ! Belleville 618-398-2421

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Our BBQ is served with sauce on the side because we can JV's was the former home of the Schorr family brewery, which was built in 1880's and operated up until prohibition years. There are three fermenting cellars below street level; the third story down is now under water. JV's has been in operation under the same management for 27 years. We serve the best in hickory smoked pork and chicken. Our ribs and chicken are smoked for five hours, while our brisket and pork butts are smoked for over 14 hours for full flavor. Our BBQ is served with sauce on the side, because we can. We are Happy to be celebrating our 27th year in business!!

117 N. Main St., Waterloo, IL, 62298 Call: 618-939-7127 Mon-Thurs 11am-8:30pm Fri & Sat 11am-9pm

Tenderloin Tuesdays

Any steak from our regular menu with two sides only $15 114 W. Mill St., Waterloo, IL 62298 618.939.9933 www.gallagherswaterloo.com 24

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DECEMBER 2011


FEAST FAVES

| shop-o-matIC

RJ Chocolatier 636.230.9300

pure imagination I hate to ruin that romantic notion of yours – the one that says those chocolates you had on your last trip to Paris were the best you’ll ever taste. But the truth is we have chocolates just as good in St. Louis. After training with a number of MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) artisans in Europe, Rick Jordan recently returned to St. Louis and brought with him the artistry for which European chocolates are known. At his simply chic chocolate boutique in Chesterfield, you’ll find bonbons, pralines, truffles, macarons, chocolate bars, barks and more. And don’t miss the balsamic ganache lollis or crunch mix made with Missouri pecans, blueberries, feuilletine (wafer-thin wheat) and 67 percent dark chocolate.

ChesTerfield

“The way I make chocolates is bipolar,” says Jordan. “I focus on really high-quality chocolate – single-origin from Mexico, Costa Rica, Ghana, Haiti, etc. – and I fill it with a simple ganache. So the flavor of the chocolate comes through. But then I have some crazy loud combinations too, like Blix (balsamic, honey and rosemary), Citron (dark chocolate, lime and caramel) and Gojira (ghost chile and lime).” Whether you like your chocolate simple or sophisticated, try something new at RJ Chocolatier. It just might capture your taste buds. – B.W. 14882 Clayton Road, Chesterfield rjchocolatier.com

thREE sWEEt GIFt IDEas FRom RICK JoRDaN |1|

|2|

|3|

PHOTOGRAPHy By Laura Ann Miller

| 1 | The cocoa pod. The ultimate gift for chocolate lovers, these hand-sculpted cocoa pods, made from 72 percent umpala chocolate, are just as tasty as they are artistic. Says Jordan, “It’s the circle of life – the chocolate is turned back into the pod from which it came.” | 2 | Macarons. These bite-sized delicacies disappear quickly, so stock up on each flavor – saffron, raspberry, café and honey. Jordan currently sources his honey locally but will soon be tending his own hives. | 3 | Gift box of chocolates. “Putting together a box of chocolates is like composing a plate of food,” Jordan says. “The flavors should complement each other; they should be harmonious.” RJ Chocolatier will even pair chocolates with foods, wines and whiskeys for your next party.

Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

25


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Oma’sBarn HOME & GARDEN

Vintage Furniture • Flowers • Home Decor

CHRISTMAS AT THE BARN Featuring Karen Didion Originals Santa Collection Holiday Gifts, Unique Ornaments & Decor Fresh Cut Christmas Trees 1.5 Miles North of I-70 on Hwy 79 Tue-Sat 10-5 • Sun 12-4 • 1057 Hwy 79, St. Peters, MO (636) 278-4445 • www.omasbarn.com • LisaHagemann $/+ !.27 92')99+ 2-5%& ÿ5&%0%5&%51 (/3ÿ5%33%38 *ÿ3ÿ1 ---# $,"4: 3192/ÿ3#2.6

Olde World Jewelers Original Design Jewelry Custom Wedding Sets

Loose Diamonds of All Sizes & Quality Jewelry Repair

28 Years in Business

4 Jewelers on Premises

4614 N. Illinois, Fairview Heights

233-2445

26

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DECEMBER 2011


FEAST FAVES

| what we’re buyIng

New Year’s eve Glam If there is ever an occasion to splurge on party wares, it’s NYE. Bid 2011 adieu in style.

|2|

– B.W.

|1|

|3|

|4|

|5| |6|

| 1 | Bird dessert stands, $29 to $34; West Elm, westelm.com | 2 | Inside Out Champagne glasses, $70; momastore.org | 3 | Metallic lacquer bowls, $60; momastore.org | 4 | La Stanza dello Scirocco Basket, $150; momastore.org | 5 | Match Pewter ice bucket with tongs, $349, cocktail shaker, $334, and jigger, $88; Lusso Home, 165 Ritz Carlton Drive, Clayton, lussohome.com | 6 | Leaf spray napkin rings, $4.50 each; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com

Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

27


MY STUFF

Vince “Vinnie” VaLenza

OwnER, BluEs City DEli, aka thE luCkiEst guy in thE wORlD! WRITTeN BY Catherine Neville

You’re known as one of the nicest guys in the business – how do you remember everyone’s name? A little bit of luck and lots of vitamins. What’s your favorite sandwich on the menu? The Valenza Special Muffuletta. It’s the first sandwich I wanted to put on the menu when I started thinking about opening a place about 20 years ago. You were one of the first guys to have “artisan” soda – what inspired you to offer more than basic soda fountain drinks? I remember as a kid going down to the corner gas station and putting in a dime and getting a great root beer or grape soda, so I thought it would match up well with a good sandwich and hopefully continue to create new memories for our customers. What do you think is the key to success in this industry? Keep things simple. Use quality ingredients. Don’t cut corners. Respect your customers and your team. How do you test and introduce new sandwiches? We test potential sandwiches with our staff, brainstorm different ingredients and configurations and see at that point if it’s going to go on special. Sometimes I’ll actually go on Facebook and throw an idea out to my “friends” and get some really great ideas back. Have you heard of the Aporkalypse Pretzelwich? Our most popular special, [it] sort of came together with the help of a friend on Facebook, and we did a contest to name the sandwich and a Facebook friend named it, too! Beer or wine? Micro beers and cheap red wine. Vanilla or chocolate? Fudge swirl! Sweet or salty? Salty ... I love anchovies! What’s your favorite junk food? Red Hot Riplets with green onion dip. Most memorable meal ever? My mom’s beef spiedini. I’ve still got the recipe. What would be your last meal? A bacon, sausage and cheese pizza from Saullo’s Pizzeria in North County; a slab of my dad’s barbecued ribs; and, oh yeah, a few slices of Valenti’s Italian bread with some extra-virgin olive oil. Dessert? Some lemon ice from Rosciglione Bakery. What a way to go! 28

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DECEMBER 2011

Blues City Deli 2438 McNair Ave., Benton Park 314.773.8225 bluescitydeli.com Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Vince Valenza.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Gregg Goldman

Vince Valenza is known as Vinnie to all who make their way to Benton Park’s Blues City Deli, where on any given day, lines snake out the door and spill onto the sidewalk. What draws the eclectic crowd? Insanely good sandwiches. Blues City’s menu – from a NOLA muffuletta to a Chicago dog – is inspired by the Blues Highway. The deli also, fittingly, hosts blues musicians. So where did the “blues” inspiration come from? “Blues music is very emotional and passionate, just like food. There’s a common denominator here. I thought, let’s meld the two and see what happens.”


s Mr. B'

Home fo� the Holida�s S��e

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Sanford-Brown College I 100 Richmond Center Blvd. | St. Peters, MO 63376 Sanford-Brown College I 1101 Eastport Plaza Drive | Collinsville, IL 62234 Sanford-Brown College I 1345 Smizer Mill Road | Fenton, MO 63026 Sanford-Brown College I 75 Village Square | Hazelwood, MO 63042

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Tickets available at the Ford Box Office at Scottrade Center, 800-745-3000 and Ticketmaster.com Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

29


fresh looks

for the holiday season

dress up your home There’s no better time to decorate your home than during the holidays. You’ll entertain your family and friends in style with the freshest looks and hottest colors from Broyhill, all beautifully displayed at Rothman’s six showrooms.

rothmanfurniture.com O’FALLON, MO

O’FALLON, IL

SOUTH SIDE

636-978-3500

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SOUTH COUNTY

DELLWOOD

ALTON

314-892-9002

314-388-0200

618-462-9770

Daily 10-8 Sunday 12-5


GADGET A-GO-GO

PUT TO THE TEST

|2|

|1|

HOME

|3|

|4|

BARTOOLS

|5|

UNDER $30 WRITTEN By Pat Eby

PhOTOGRAPhy By Laura Ann Miller

|1|

COCKTAIL SHAKER, MIXING GLASS, BAR SPOON, STRAINER, MUDDLER AND JIGGER PROS

Professional tools to mix, pour, muddle and strain cocktails for a tiny price. The no-nonsense jigger snuggles close at the cup of the strainer and tips clean in with the flick of a wrist. Recipes for classic cocktails circle the 16-ounce mixing glass. The size, shape and curved prongs of the strainer make a solid connection to the open cup of the shaker for a good pour. CONS

Unfortunately, removing the cap releases a splash every time. The flange on the lid that fits inside the shaker cup is too short to make a good seal, making this the leakiest shaker tested. The muddler’s too short for the tallest glasses. Plus, the finish on the wood didn’t seem like a good idea.

|2|

|3|

CHEFMATE RECIPE COCKTAIL SHAKER, OXO MUDDLER PROS

Love spinning the outside cylinder for favorite drink recipes as well as the look of the smooth stainless inner cup and brushed-aluminum outer cup, lid and cap. The OXO winner of a muddler mashed, juiced, bruised and pulverized perfectly with no arm strain. An extra-long reach and cushioned base muddled things in tall glasses without a scratch. CONS

The inner and outer cylinders of the shaker don’t pull apart for cleaning. It leaks a little, too, so jiggle cautiously, up and down. Shaker $13.49 and muddler $12.69; Target, multiple locations, target.com

|4|

|5|

AMCO HOUSEWORKS 6-PIECE BAR TOOL SET

PENGUIN COCKTAIL SHAKER

PROS

PROS

A tidy, concise set (shaker, fruit knife, ice tongs, waiter’s knife and corkscrew, bottle and can opener, and tool caddy) looks good. Plus, it’s a bargain. Online, this same set rings up at more than $30. The 18-ounce shaker grips well and perfectly mixes one drink at a time. The snug, but not too tight, fit of the strainer on the shaker reduces the chance of leaks and pulls apart easily. The waiter’s corkscrew creaks open at first but loosens up tout de suite. CONS

The serrated fruit and cheese knife looks good but works so-so on citrus, cuts hard on apples and hopelessly mashes avocados.

This dapper penguin shaker not only looks smart, he shakes pretty well, too. If style and whimsy rule at your parties, this is the shaker for you. From beak to flat, shiny toes, he’s a charmer. you may get a kick out of the design nod to penguin aluminum ice buckets from the cocktail heydays of the 1950s. CONS

With its 17-ounce capacity, mixing more than one drink at a time isn’t an option without major leaks at the lid junction. his wings make for a less-smooth grip as you shake. he’s a pricey penguin, too, at just under $25. $24.95; Pier 1 Imports, multiple locations, pierone.com

$29.99; Bertarelli Cutlery, 1927 Marconi Ave., The Hill, bertarellicutlery.com

Shaker $7.44, glass $4.78, spoon $.91, strainer $1.89, muddler $3.85 and jigger $1.56; Session Fixture Co., 6044 Lemay Ferry Road, Oakville, sessionfixtures.com

HAMMERED COCKTAIL SHAKER, HANDLED JIGGER AND BAR SPOON PROS

The shimmery hammered surface and sleek shape of this 28-ounce shaker seduce from the shelf. Everything chic cocktails connote resonates in this design. The handled jigger not only looks spiffy but also pours cleanly into the shaker with no drips. Long, lean and twisty, the bar spoon twizzles and stirs just fine, even in a tall-and-skinny Tom Collins glass. CONS

help! The strainer top on the shaker fits so tightly, wrestling it off is the only option. Not a good first step when you want to look cool mixing drinks. The top cap fits just right, and my sweet Piña Colada pours out fine. Then comes round two, muscling the top off to clean it. Too much aggravation for the bling. Shaker $14.99, jigger $3.99 and spoon $2.99; World Market, multiple locations, worldmarket.com

WHAT TO LOOK FOR : The must-have tool: A cocktail shaker. From Appletinis to Zombies, shakers blend liquors and flavorings, chill drinks effectively, and allow for a good pour to the glass. We reviewed three-piece Cobbler-style shakers, which are more common in home bars. Professional bartenders prefer the two-piece Boston shaker, which takes considerable skill to seal and shake properly. Functionality: Open and close shakers and waiter’s corkscrews. Look for smooth action with a reasonable amount of resistance.

Muddlers should be long enough to reach the bottom of tall glasses. Strainers with four curved prongs rest more securely on glasses than those with two straight prongs. Jiggers with a tightly pinched middle fit close and pour clean. Balance and grip: Each tool should balance comfortably in your hand, especially bottle openers, corkscrews and tongs. Get a grip on the shaker. When condensation builds up as you shake, shake, shake, things can get slippery. No Manhattans on the floor, please.

Thismonth,gadgetreviewerPatEby shakesthingsupbytestingboth composedcocktailsetsandindividual pieces.Howdotheymeasureup? Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

31


ON the shelf

BEER wriTTen By Michael Sweeney

SPIRITS

The creator of STLHops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the Craft Beer Manager at Lohr Distributing.

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

summit Brewing Co.’s Oatmeal stout STYLE: Oatmeal Stout (5.1% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Three Kings Public House, 6307 Delmar Blvd., University City, threekingspub.com; $5 (16-oz draught), $15 (pitcher) PAIRINGS: Oysters Rockefeller • Camembert

with beers from around the world appearing in bottles on store shelves, it’s easy to forget a time when beer was only available at your favorite pub. Summit Brewing Co. brings back the tradition by making its oatmeal stout only available on draught. This creamy, dark beer has a thick, tan head that laces the side of the glass each time you take a drink.

Jolly Pumpkin Artisan Ales’ Oro de Calabaza STYLE: Bière de Garde (8% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Lukas Liquor, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville, lukasliquorstl.com; $10.49 (750-ml bottle) PAIRINGS: Shrimp curry • Linguine with mussels

it’s important to pick a beer that plays nice with holiday food. Pairing can be an art, but it gets much easier when you have great beers at your disposal. Despite the name, Jolly Pumpkin artisan ales’ Oro de Calabaza contains no pumpkin. instead, it’s a wonderfully effervescent French-style ale that works wonders with almost any holiday course.

the st. louis Brewery’s schlafly Reserve Bourbon Barrel-Aged Imperial stout STYLE: Imperial Stout (10.5% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Schlafly, multiple locations, schlafly. com; $10.99 (750-ml bottle) PAIRINGS: Roasted pork sandwich • Boston cream pie

in a process that reflects a bit of Old world craftsmanship, Schlafly ages its massive imperial stout in barrels for many months. The twist in this aging process is that these aren’t just any barrels; they’re freshly emptied bourbon barrels from kentucky, which impart a wonderful bourbon character that melds perfectly with this lusciously decadent black beer.

wriTTen By Chad Michael George

four Roses single Barrel (bourbon) PROVENANCE: Lawrenceburg, Kentucky (50% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Lukas Liquor, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville; lukasliquorstl.com; $35.99 TRY IT: Neat or with a few ice cubes or drops of water

master distiller Jim rutledge handpicks the barrels that get bottled for Four roses’ Single Barrel bourbon. Bottlings vary by barrel. all of the bottlings i’ve tasted are spicy yet smooth, with just enough vanilla. i recommend a few ice cubes or a touch of water to settle down the alcohol and help the flavors from this delicious spirit come through.

the BalvenieMadeira Cask

(17-year-aged scotch Whisky)

PROVENANCE: Scotland (43% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $107.99 TRY IT: Neat or with a few drops of water

From time to time, The Balvenie releases a bottling that’s particularly special because of the vessel the Scotch was aged in. This bottling started in traditional, american oak Scotch whisky casks; then it was transferred to barrels that had been previously used for madeira wine production. The end product is a Scotch whisky with an extra hit of dried fruits and great spicy notes of cinnamon and ginger.

Camus XO Borderies Cognac PROVENANCE: Cognac, France (40% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Randall’s, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $169.99 TRY IT: Neat or with a few ice cubes

This holiday season, you’d be lucky to get any bottle of cognac – but extra lucky to be greeted with this gem. The fifth-largest producer of cognac, Camus is the only producer to distill an XO bottling of 100 percent Borderies fruit. Borderies is a sub-appellation within Cognac, France, and its soils host the most-prized fruit of the region. On the palate, you’ll notice a floral intensity, along with soft hazelnut and buttery notes.

OUR TOP PICKS FOR DECEMBER

POuring wine PhOTOgraPhy By ©iSTOCkPhOTO.COm/Lauri PaTTerSOn


WINE written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

2007 Bolen Family Estates Merlot PROVENANCE: Napa, Calif. AVAILABLE AT: The Wine Merchant Ltd., 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $52.99 PAIRINGS: Beef Wellington • Braised lamb • Aged Gouda

when a vintner decides to put all of his effort and passion into one wine, you can be sure the wine will be exceptional. Merlot is well on its way to making a comeback, and St. Louis native eric bolen is behind this lush and complex rendition. Mixed berry aromas leap from the glass, followed by layered flavors of dark fruit, subtle spices and toasty oak. enjoy it with dinner. Give it as a gift, or save it for a special occasion with friends.

2010 Mas des Bressades Roussanne-Viognier PROVENANCE: Costières de Nîmes, France AVAILABLE AT: The Vino Gallery, 4701 McPherson Ave, Central West End, thevinogallery.com; $19.99 PAIRINGS: Seafood chowder • Glazed ham • Egg rolls

this inconspicuous estate producer is just outside of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, on the southwestern edge of the rhône Valley. its blend of Viognier and roussanne makes for a delicious winter white, with round creaminess and powerful notes of tropical and stone fruits. bright acidity and intoxicating aromatics add to the allure.

2005 Villa Erbice Amarone della Valpolicella PROVENANCE: Veneto, Italy AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, wineandcheeseplace. com; $58.99 PAIRINGS: Slow-cooked stews • Venison • Chocolate truffles

this rich and rustic italian red is unique because it’s made from partially dried grapes. Chocolate, fig and raisin captivate both the nose and the palate while unfolding into a full-bodied, velvety wine. the wine is a superb choice for fireside sipping, or it can be paired with hearty winter meals and decadent desserts.

Join Angela Ortmann and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville for a happy hour wine tasting at Home Wine Kitchen on Thu., Dec. 15, at 6pm. RSVP to rsvp@stlwinegirl.com.

JOIN US! Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

33


mySTery Shopper

Asparagus with Black Walnut oil “hollandaise” By Chris Williams, FRAncO

Serves | 8 | 1 Tbsp 1/3 cup 2 Tbsp 4 1½ sticks ¼ cup 2 lbs

shallots, minced water white wine vinegar salt and freshly ground black pepper egg yolks butter, melted black walnut oil asparagus, blanched

| Preparation | In a small saucepan, bring shallots, water, white wine vinegar and 1 pinch black pepper to a boil. Simmer until reduced to about 2 Tbsp. Strain into a wide bowl and cool slightly. Add egg yolks and whisk to combine. Over a bain marie (double boiler), whisk yolk mixture until thick and smooth. Slowly stream melted butter down the side of the bowl, whisking vigorously to incorporate. After butter is fully incorporated, slowly stream in the black walnut oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with the asparagus cold, grilled or warm.

Black Walnut Ice Cream By Chris Williams, FRAncO

Serves | 4 to 6 | heavy cream walnuts, chopped and toasted salt vanilla extract egg yolks honey black walnut oil

| Preparation | In a pot, scald the cream and add the walnuts and salt. Gently simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, add vanilla extract and let steep for 10 minutes. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks and honey until mixture is thick and forms ribbons. Slowly add the cream mixture to the egg mixture, whisking constantly. chill to 32ºF. Add walnut oil to the chilled cream right before placing in an ice cream machine. Process according to manufacturer’s directions.

meeT: BLACK WALNUT OIL The English walnut is the darling of the holiday nutcracker set, with a tawny shell and sweet nut meat that all but tumbles from its papery nook. But this is not that walnut. This is the tough-asnails, armor-clad Juglans nigra, better known as the black walnut. What meat can be saved from its shell comes out in bits; the rest is pressed into an earthy, bitter oil.

Stop by 34

feastSTL.com

wRITTen By russ Carr

What is it?

hoW do i use it?

Black walnuts have a dark, striated shell that’s tough enough to give even a determined squirrel fits. Once cracked open, black walnuts fight on; getting intact nut meat out is practically impossible. Fortunately for black walnut oil production, that’s not necessary. The hulled nuts are fed into an expeller press – a large, hydraulic, screw-like device – where the oil is squeezed out under tremendous pressure.

If you’ve ever cooked with regular walnut oil – say, to stir-fry green beans – you know that it adds a slightly earthy flavor. Black walnut oil deepens that flavor, with a profile that could be described as smoky to bitter. In combination with the right ingredients, though – like adding bitters to a cocktail – black walnut oil helps accentuate other flavors. It can be brushed on full-flavored fish, such as salmon; incorporated into vinaigrettes as a dressing or marinade; or added to baked goods for extra richness.

There are online recipes for making black walnut oil; many suggest toasting black walnut pieces in a skillet and using them to infuse canola oil. Resist the temptation to try this. If you’re a fan of the uniquely bitter flavor of the black walnut, you’ll want the real thing.

If you’re feeling daring this holiday season, put down the nutcracker, step to the dark side and pick up a bottle of black walnut oil.

to pick up more delicious recipes featuring black walnut oil.Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations. DECEMBER 2011

PHOTOGRAPHy By Jennifer Silverberg

2 cups ½ cup 1 pinch ½ Tbsp 5 ¾ cup 1/3 cup

check it out!

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35


TECH SCHOOL

PRESERVED LEMONS STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassandra Vires

Preserved lemons are most commonly associated with North African, notably Moroccan, cuisine. The act of preserving food in salt, however, is a time-honored tradition that spans the globe, since salt-cured foods rarely require refrigeration. Often called pickled lemons, preserved lemons combine various curing methods, resulting in a highly flavorful and edible rind.

Preserving food with salt can be done either wet or dry. Preserved lemons incorporate both methods. Rubbing dry salt into the flesh of the lemon draws out the moisture, inhibiting the growth of bacteria. Placing the lemons in a container and pressing them extracts more natural liquid and allows them to continue curing in their own juices, effectively creating a wet cure, or brine, that further develops the flavor. Since salt-curing enhances the natural flavor of the lemon and incorporates the flavors of the salt and spices, it’s important to use only the highest-quality ingredients. Meyer lemons or Eureka lemons are preferred for their pure flavor and visual attractiveness. Kosher salt will certainly do the trick, but a purer sea salt is the best option. Don’t use table salt or iodized salt; the added preservatives leave behind an unpleasant taste and can inhibit the curing process. High-quality spices should also be used because they add other flavors to the lemon. This recipe calls for cloves, black peppercorns, coriander seeds, cinnamon, bay leaves and dried chiles. But feel free to use any combination of flavors that best suits your palate. Applications for preserved lemons vary: In some, only the rind is used, with the lemon flesh scooped out and discarded. Other applications recommend cutting the lemon into wedges and leaving the flesh intact. My personal preference is to leave the flesh intact and incorporate the wedges into pastas, salads, sauces and roasted meats. I also serve the wedges with grilled vegetables, olives, cheeses and charcuterie, and I use the reserved juice in exotic cocktails. The traditional Moroccan tajine is one of my favorite dishes using preserved lemons – the recipe is available at feastSTL.com.

Preserved Lemons Meyer or Eureka lemons are preferred. If both are unavailable, be sure to use organic or unsprayed lemons since you will be eating the rind. 10 1½ cups 2 tsp 2 tsp 2 tsp

Cassandra Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen. She received her culinary training in Houston and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

2 4 2

Meyer or Eureka lemons kosher salt or sea salt whole cloves whole black peppercorns whole coriander seeds cinnamon sticks bay leaves dried chiles

| Preparation | Using a vegetable

COOKING VIDEO!

Watch chef Cassy make preserved lemons step by step. Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at

brush, thoroughly clean and dry each lemon. Slice off the top and bottom of each one so that they stand upright on the cutting board. | 1 | Carefully make two cuts into each lemon, creating an

X. Leave at least a ½-inch of the lemon intact at the bottom.

iron pan work well for this.

| 2 | Pack each lemon cavity with

temperature overnight and repeat the pressing process for 2 to 3 nights or until the lemons are completely covered in liquid. If, after 3 days, the lemons aren’t completely submerged in liquid, add freshly squeezed lemon juice to cover.

salt. Place remaining salt in the bottom of a glass or plastic container. | 3 | Place lemons on top of the layer of salt and sprinkle remaining spices on top. Press firmly on the lemons with your hands, pushing juices out into the spice mixture. Loosely cover with plastic wrap and place heavy weights on top to apply additional pressure to the lemons. Canned goods or a cast-

| 4 | Let lemons stand at room

Store the lemons in the refrigerator for 1 month. Once they are soft, rinse them and refrigerate (for longer, safer shelf life) for up to 6 months.

feastSTL.com.

ChECK IT OuT!

Go to feastSTL.com for a chicken tagine recipe with preserved lemons. 36

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DECEMBER 2011

FEast Extra


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Check Out Schnucks Cooks Videos For Tips & Techniques!

Our Schnucks Cooks how-to videos are full of tips and techniques from our team of culinary experts. If you want to learn more, check out our video library at www.schnuckscooks.com. You’ll also find a variety of Schnucks Cooks recipes for quick, easy and affordable meal solutions. At our in-store Schnucks Cooks stations, our experienced Cooking Coaches will demonstrate how to cook our featured recipes and sample them for you to try! You’ll find all the ingredients and cooking equipment for each recipe next to our Schnucks Cooks station in select stores. |2|

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StoringCheeseVarieties At Schnucks, you’ll find all the cheese categories from fresh soft cheeses like feta, to hard cheeses like Parmigiano-Reggiano. Cheese is a living organism and needs to breathe. Here are a few tips for storing cheese properly (see video online for more information).

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PHOTOGRAPHY bY Jennifer Silverberg

To store most cheeses, wrap in cheese or wax paper, then loosely wrap in plastic wrap.

Â)like theStorevegetable cheese in a cool, humid place ¿) Blue cheese is the one cheese you can store wrapped in foil. compartment in your refrigerator.

Visit www.schnuckscooks.com

for Schnucks Cooks videos, recipes, locations, our monthly newsletter and more!

©2011 Schnucks

|4| Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

37


EASY EATS

ThE PRoof is in ThE PuDDing STORY And RECIPE bY Lucy Schnuck

bread pudding isn’t always a sticky-sweet dessert. This savory version is delicious on its own or used as a stuffing. Rich, salty pork pairs well with dark, jammy fruits, such as figs. The salty-sweet combination creates a satisfyingly flavorful winter dish.

Serves | 4 | 2

¾ lb ½ lb 1 1 2 cloves 6 4 Tbsp 2 cups 4 ½ loaf 4 Tbsp 2

|1|

Cornish game hens kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper sweet Italian sausage shiitake mushrooms, sliced yellow onion, diced shallot, diced garlic, sliced dried figs, diced fig jam, divided milk eggs challah, cubed butter, divided figs, quartered

In a large sauté pan, cook sausage over medium heat until browned. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Increase heat to medium-high. When oil from sausage is smoking slightly, add mushrooms and sauté until browned. Reduce heat to medium. Add the onion and shallot and cook until translucent. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant; then add the dried figs. Season with salt and pepper. Return the sausage to the mix and remove from heat. | 1 | Allow to cool slightly and stir in 2 Tbsp fig jam.

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400ºF.

| 2 | In a large bowl, combine the milk

Pat hens dry with a paper towel. Season

and eggs. Add the cubed challah and

|

|2|

inside and out with salt and pepper.

CHEF’S

the sausage mixture. Mix well. | 3 | Fill the hens’ cavities with the bread pudding and truss each hen’s legs. Rub each hen with 1 Tbsp butter and place on a roasting pan. bake until the internal temperature of the birds reaches 165ºF. Remove hens from the oven and place on a platter to rest. Place the roasting pan on the stovetop over medium-high heat. Add remaining fig jam to the pan drippings and stir well. Reduce the heat to medium and add remaining butter, stirring constantly. Add figs to the pan and cook for another minute, stirring to coat them with sauce. Cut birds in half and serve with pan sauce.

|

TasTeful Timing. When sautéing vegetables, be sure to add the garlic in the last few minutes of cooking and no earlier. Since garlic is high in sugar, it will burn easily if left in the pan too long, which will ruin the flavors of the dish. make use of The lefTovers. bake remaining bread pudding in a casserole dish at 325ºF for 30 minutes or until set. Serve as a side to this dish or alongside baked chicken or turkey cutlets with greens later in the week. a beTTer bread. Challah is a great choice for bread pudding. Its spongy and airy construction easily

soaks up the eggs and milk, so the pudding is moist and tender. It is similar to brioche, which can also be used in this recipe. be picky abouT your figs. There are many varieties of figs. The most common in our area is the Mission fig, named for the Spanish Franciscans who came to California to establish mission churches. When picking out fresh Mission figs, look for dark-purple skin and relatively firm flesh. Figs are highly perishable, so they need to be used as soon as possible after you buy them. If you have a hard time finding fresh figs, dried figs can be substituted. dry figs are a bit stickier and denser, but they still have that true fig flavor.

check iT ouT! |3| PHOTOGRAPHY bY Jennifer Silverberg

FeaSt extra

Check out feastsTl.com for a step-by-step slide show on making this month’s dish.

The exhibition was created by The Field Museum, Chicago. 38

feastSTL.com

DECEMBER 2011

Illustrations by Velizar Simeonovski © The Field


d Museum

JOIN US! rsvp: schnuckscooks.com or ..

Join FEAST and the Schnucks Cooking School Team on Wed., Dec. 28 at 6PM to make the tasty menu shown here. Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RSVP at schnuckscooks.com.

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0)+&4 "&#/&$55 2 !3(%.,31'-31* To purchase tickets, visit mohistory.org or call (314) 361-9017. Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

39


RISE and SHINE with 4 Seasons Bakery WrItten by Heidi Dean

|

PhotogrAPhy by Jonathan Gayman

A baker’s life can be distinctly unglamorous with early mornings, long days and lots of hard work. but creative satisfaction and the joy of making delicious food that people adore make it worthwhile. Co-owner Agi groff doesn’t hesitate when asked why people love 4 Seasons bakery’s baked goods. “real ingredients; nothing you can’t pronounce. no artificial colors or flavors. real food!” her husband, Aaron, agrees, adding that customers are lured by their handmade approach – even the puff pastry and Danish dough are made on site. the

groffs, naturally, use local ingredients whenever possible, including eggs. the groffs met while they were earning associates degrees in baking and pastry arts at the Culinary Institute of America in new york. they moved to St. Louis in 2004 and began their business in 2005, baking in a nearby church kitchen and selling their products at farmers’ markets. In July 2010, they opened their snug, tidy storefront bakery. A month after that, the couple’s daughter, Alina, was born, making the bakery’s first year “crazy but good.”

Want to offer something special to your holiday houseguests? Aaron and Agi Groff share some of their quick recipes for scrumptious winter-morning treats.

Rosemary-Cranberry Scones

Yield | 8 to 10 scones | 3 cups 1 Tbsp 1/3 cup ½ tsp 1¼ stick ¾ cup 1 Tbsp 2 tsp ½ cup ¼ cup 1

40

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all-purpose flour baking powder sugar salt butter, cut into pieces chopped cranberries chopped rosemary orange zest buttermilk milk egg cinnamon sugar to taste

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400°F. Sift together flour, baking powder, sugar and salt. Use your fingertips to rub the butter into the dry ingredients. Add the cranberries, rosemary and orange zest, and toss together with the flour mixture. In a separate bowl, combine the buttermilk, milk and egg. Add the buttermilk mixture to the flour and cranberry, rosemary and orangezest mixture, stirring until fully combined. Press the dough into a 1-inch-thick circle. Cut into 8 to 10 pieces. Place on parchment-lined sheet pan. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar and bake for 25 to 35 minutes.


Throughout the week, Agi and Aaron handle jobs the other doesn’t like. Agi is the chief tart maker; Aaron excels at quiches. Aaron also heads daily operations, with the help of a couple of interns who do basic dough assembly and other tasks.

Morning-Glory Muffins

Yield | 8 large muffins |

2 cups 1 tsp 1 tsp ½ tsp 3 1¼ cups ½ cup ¾ cup 1 cup 1 cup ½ cup ½ cup ¾ cup 1 tsp ¼ cup

all-purpose flour cinnamon baking soda salt eggs sugar shredded coconut raisins shredded carrot shredded apple crushed pineapple, drained chopped toasted walnuts canola oil vanilla rolled oats

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. Sift together flour, cinnamon, baking soda and salt. In a separate bowl, whisk eggs, sugar, coconut, raisins, carrots, apples, pineapple, walnuts, oil and vanilla. Add the dry ingredients to the egg mixture, stirring until just incorporated. Scoop into paper-lined muffin cups. Sprinkle with rolled oats. Bake for 45 minutes or until golden-brown.

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DECEMBER 2011

The bakery has a daily rhythm that’s overlaid by its weekly production cycle. Tuesdays through Fridays, Aaron arrives by 5:30am and on Saturdays, he comes to the bakery an hour earlier to proof breads and handle extra prep work. He first concentrates on baking staples for the case: scones, quick breads, coffeecake and cookies – all made in the bakery’s single oven. When that’s done, he brews coffee and prepares the register so he’s ready for customers when he unlocks the doors at 7. He’s in constant motion the rest of the day, helping customers; baking items such as macaroons, breads, pies and tarts; making starters for the week’s various breads; taking care of special orders; packaging cookies; restocking the front case and shelves; and brûléing pastries and finishing them with powdered sugar, glaze or frosting. Tuesdays are big production days. Staples are made so the Groffs’ wares can be baked fresh during the week. Cookie and scone dough are made and portioned out, and muffin and quick bread batters

are prepared and stored. Dough for tarts and pies are assembled, wrapped and labeled, and puff pastry and Danish dough stocks are replenished. On Thursdays and Fridays, production gears up again as the Groffs decide on Saturday offerings. Typically, they prepare tarts, pies, their signature flourless chocolate cake and a German- or New York-style cheesecake. Inspiration for weekend treats comes from a lot of sources: local fruits or vegetables, magazine articles, chatting with customers or a recipe from the Groffs’ collection of more than 300 cookbooks. Sundays and Mondays are the Groffs’ days off, although they spend at least some of their free time stocking up on supplies and looking for ideas for new pastries. They often go to the library for cookbooks they don’t already own. Because Agi was born and raised in Heidelberg, Germany, she bakes traditional German treats during the holidays. Throughout December, 4 Seasons Bakery’s shelves are stocked with her favorites. Several come from family recipes: vanillekipferl (almond crescents), zimtsterne (cinnamon stars) and lebkuchen (similar to gingerbread).


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43


Almond Anise Biscotti

“They’re only made during Christmas time, and then you have to wait until next year,” she explains. “That’s what makes them so special.” Other Christmas goodies include springerle (crunchy biscuits embossed with Christmas themes), rumkugeln (chocolate rum balls) and anisplätzchen (anise cookies). They also make a classic Christmas stollen, dense, egg-rich yeast dough studded with toasted almonds, crammed with golden and dark raisins and flavored with candied orange peel and lemon peel that have been soaked in rum for two days. The Groffs sell their Christmas treats at the Hermann, Mo., Christkindl markets at Stone Hill and Hermannhof wineries. The Groffs’ busy holiday schedule leaves little time to cook for themselves. Don’t feel too sorry for them, though. Their version of leftovers is pumpkin brioche bread pudding. Agi also looks forward to treats made by her family. “By the time Christmas comes along, the last thing I want to eat are the cookies I made. My mom sent a box of her cookies last year, and I was excited to eat them.” December is the perfect time to follow your taste buds to the St. Charles shop. The Groffs’ love for what they do is evident in the warm greeting they give every customer, their friendly banter with regulars and joyful approach to baking traditional and seasonally inspired treats. 4 Seasons Bakery 2012 Campus Dr., St. Charles 314.288.9176 4seasonsbakery.com

44

feastSTL.com

DECEMBER 2011

Yield | About 4 dozen |

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. Combine eggs and sugar and

3 1 cup 1 Tbsp ¼ tsp 2 cups 1 tsp 1½ cups

whip until light and thick. In a separate bowl, whisk dry ingredients together. Pour the egg mixture over the dry ingredients. Add almonds and beat until well combined. Spread dough into 2 strips, each 3 inches wide and 18 inches long. Bake for 30 minutes or until firm to touch. Cool for 30 minutes. Turn oven temperature down to 300°F. Cut both strips horizontally in half-inch slices. Place sliced biscotti back in oven and bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until dry.

eggs sugar ground anise salt all-purpose flour baking soda whole almonds


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holiday

POT LU


K C with punch! FOOD RECIPES BY Angela Komis | DRINK RECIPES BY Matt Seiter PHOTOGRAPHY BY Corey Woodruff | SHOT ON LOCATION AT Rodgers Townsend

Do you dread office potluck fare? Make this year’s holiday party a hit with dressed-up portable dishes and drinks. Tandoori Chicken and Shrimp Paella Serves | 15 to 20 | 2 Tbsp 4 1½ lbs ¼ cup 4 ½ 3 cloves 1 1 3½ cups 1 2 cups 5½ cups 12 1 cup 3 tsp 4 Tbsp

1

olive oil skinless, boneless chicken breasts, diced medium small to medium shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails on tandoori masala*, divided chorizo sausages, sliced ½-inch thick large yellow onion, diced garlic, minced red bell pepper, diced yellow bell pepper, diced long-grain white rice 14.5-oz can fire-roasted diced tomatoes dry white wine chicken stock large Spanish olives, sliced frozen peas, thawed fresh thyme, finely chopped fresh parsley, chopped salt and freshly ground black pepper lemon

| Preparation | Heat oil on mediumhigh in a stockpot. In separate bowls, toss chicken and shrimp with 2 Tbsp tandoori masala each to coat. Add chicken to oil and sear on all sides, until brown and caramelized. Remove from pan and set aside. Add chorizo and sear on all sides. Remove and set aside with chicken. Add shrimp and cook for 2 minutes. Remove and set aside. Add onion, garlic and peppers and sauté until soft. Add rice and remaining tandoori masala. Sauté for 4 minutes. Add tomatoes with liquid and white wine. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add stock and bring to a simmer. Add chicken and chorizo, and simmer 20 minutes. If liquid is absorbed but rice is not soft, add about 1 cup water.

PUNCH PAIRING

Maiden’s Approval

The sweet honey and tart lemon in this drink complement the spiciness of the tandoori paella. Bubbles normally elevate heat and spice, and since the rice subdues these elements a bit, the sparkling wine brings the spiciness of the dish back to the forefront of your palate. Serves | 10 | 15 oz 15 oz 10 oz 5 oz ¼ oz 10 oz

London dry gin, preferably Broker’s Gin dry sparkling wine, preferably cava honey syrup (equal parts honey and water) fresh lemon juice orange flower water* (add more to your liking) water lemon slices, ground cinnamon or ground nutmeg, for garnish

| Preparation | Mix all ingredients in a large container, stir and adjust flavors to your liking. Refrigerate overnight. When ready to serve, place a large ice cube (see page 52) in a punch bowl and pour contents in bowl. Garnish the contents of the bowl with thinly cut lemon slices, cinnamon or nutmeg. Dispense with a ladle. * Orange flower water is also known as orange blossom water. You can purchase it at Jay International Food Co. on South Grand Boulevard. It’s inexpensive, and a little goes a long way.

When rice is done, fold in shrimp, olives, peas, thyme and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to an 11-by-14inch dish. Cover until ready to serve. Just before serving, fluff the rice with a fork and squeeze lemon over paella. * Available at Jay International Food Co. on South Grand Boulevard Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

47


Slow Cooker Lamb Meatballs with Cannellini Beans This is easy to make the morning of your office party. Simply cook the meatballs, add everything to your slow cooker as directed, and turn it on high heat at work 5 hours before the party begins. Bring crumbled Feta, shredded Parmesan, kalamata olives or fresh mint for coworkers to add in as they please. And serve crusty bread for soaking up the broth. Yield | Approximately 35 small meatballs | MEATBALLS

Turkey Shepherd’s Pie with Sweet Potato Soufflé Serves | 10 |

| To Assemble | Spoon sweet potato

TURKEY SHEPHERD’S PIE

2 Tbsp ½ 2 1 stalk 2 cloves 1 Tbsp 1 tsp 1 tsp 2 Tbsp 3 Tbsp 2 cups ¾ cup 2 Tbsp ½ cup 1 cup 1 lb 3 Tbsp

olive oil large yellow onion, diced carrots, diced celery, diced garlic, minced fresh rosemary, chopped fine salt freshly ground black pepper butter all-purpose flour chicken stock heavy cream Worcestershire sauce dry white wine frozen peas roasted turkey, diced fresh parsley, finely chopped

½ cup ½ cup 1 tsp ½ tsp ½ cup 6 Tbsp 2 2

large sweet potatoes, cooked and drained granulated sugar light brown sugar vanilla extract salt heavy cream butter, melted and divided large eggs egg whites

| Preparation – Turkey Shepherd’s Pie | Heat oil on medium-high in a large pot. Add onion, carrots and celery. Sauté until soft. Add garlic, rosemary, salt and pepper. Add butter and flour and whisk until incorporated. Slowly whisk in stock, heavy cream, Worcestershire sauce and white wine. Bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. When mixture starts to thicken, add peas, turkey and parsley. Add more salt and pepper if desired. Transfer to a large foil pan or glass baking dish.

| Preparation – Sweet Potato Soufflé | Preheat oven to 400ºF. In a large mixing bowl, mash cooked sweet potatoes. Add sugars, vanilla extract, salt, cream and 4 Tbsp butter. Whip until light and fluffy. In a separate bowl, whisk eggs and egg whites until peaks start 48

feastSTL.com

soufflé on top of the shepherd’s pie and spread evenly. Pour remaining melted butter over the top and bake 30 minutes or until sweet potatoes are golden-brown.

PUNCH PAIRING

A Simple Variation

Even with all the syrup, this punch is on the drier side. A light punch creates a nice balance with a heavy dish like shepherd’s pie. This punch won’t take up too much room in your stomach, leaving more space to load up on the rest of the delicious dishes. Serves | 10 |

SWEET POTATO SOUFFLÉ

3

to form. Gently fold eggs into sweet potato mixture until completely incorporated.

DECEMBER 2011

15 oz

7½ oz 5 oz 5 oz 5 oz 5 oz

bourbon, preferably Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey or W.L. Weller Special Reserve fresh orange juice lemon juice hibiscus syrup* dry white wine, preferably Riesling or Gewürztraminer simple syrup (equal parts sugar and water) orange slices, mixed berries, mint sprigs and dried flowers, for garnish

| Preparation | Mix all ingredients in a large container, stir and adjust flavors to your liking. Refrigerate overnight. When ready to serve, place a large ice cube (see page 52) in a punch bowl and pour contents in bowl. Garnish with orange slices, mixed berries, a few mint sprigs and dried flowers. Ladle into cups over ice. * To make hibiscus syrup, mix equal parts sugar and water and add 1 cup of dried flowers for every 3 cups of sugar. Place on high heat and bring just to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and steep for 15 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer, let cool and bottle. You can purchase dried hibiscus flowers at mountainroseherbs.com or at various boutique shops around town.

1½ lbs 2 ½ cup ¼ cup 2 cloves 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 tsp 1 tsp 2 Tbsp

ground lamb* large eggs Italian bread crumbs shredded Parmesan garlic, minced fresh basil, finely chopped fresh mint, finely chopped Greek seasoning salt freshly ground black pepper olive oil

TOMATO BROTH

2 1 1 cup 1 cup 2 15-oz cans 1 cup 2 cloves 1 pinch 1 pinch 16-oz bag 8

15-oz cans tomato sauce 14.5-oz can fire-roasted diced tomatoes dry red wine beef broth cannellini beans, drained water garlic, minced salt freshly ground black pepper fresh baby spinach large basil leaves, torn

| Preparation – Meatballs | Mix together all ingredients, except olive oil, until completely incorporated. Roll into quarter-sized meatballs, approximately 2 Tbsp of meat mixture. In a large sauté pan, heat oil to mediumhigh. When oil is very hot, add several meatballs to pan and sear on all sides until brown and caramelized. Remove and place on a paper towel-lined plate to soak up excess oil. Cook in batches, being careful not to crowd pan.

| Preparation – Tomato Broth | Add all ingredients, except spinach and basil, to a slow cooker set on high heat. Add the meatballs

to the broth and cook for 5 hours. Stir in the spinach and basil, and serve. * You can use ground beef or a mixture of beef and pork. Choose extra-lean beef to avoid fat in the broth.

PUNCH PAIRING

Dark Seduction

Even if you don’t like scotch, you’ll like this punch. Smooth cognac and tart passion fruit blend beautifully with the peatiness of the scotch. Cinnamon adds that signature wintertime flavor, and the red wine’s tannins emphasize the natural goodness of the lamb.

Serves | 10 | 10 oz 10 oz 10 oz 5 oz

5 oz ¾ oz 7 oz

blended scotch Cognac, preferably Camus VS Elegance or Deau passion fruit juice* red wine, preferably Tinto de Toro, Malbec or Old Vine Garnacha cinnamon syrup** orange bitters water

| Preparation | Mix all ingredients in a large container, stir and adjust flavors to your liking. Refrigerate overnight. When ready to serve, place a large ice cube (see page 52) in a punch bowl and pour contents in bowl. Dispense with a ladle. * To make passion fruit juice, thaw a 14-oz frozen pack of passion fruit purée. Pour into a container and add ¼ cup sugar and enough water to bring the total volume to 1 quart. Stir until sugar is dissolved and strain through a fine-mesh strainer. Look for Goya passion fruit purée at Jay International Food Co. on South Grand Boulevard. ** To make cinnamon syrup, prepare 1 quart of simple syrup (equal parts sugar and water) and add 10 to12 cinnamon sticks. Bring to a simmer, being careful not to boil. Simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from heat and steep for another 15 minutes. Strain through a finemesh strainer, let cool and bottle.


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| Preparation – Tomato Layer | Mix together all ingredients. Cover and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour or overnight.

mold onto a platter and slowly lift the mold off. Gently remove plastic wrap. Decorate your platter with crostini, crackers, pita chips, capers and fresh cut vegetables.

| Preparation – Cheese and Salmon Layer | Mix all ingredients, except salmon, until well incorporated. Gently fold in salmon.

| Preparation – Kalamata Olive Tapenade | Add olives, garlic, herbs and anchovy paste to food processor. Mix and slowly stream in oil until well blended.

| To Assemble | Line mold with a piece

Smoked Salmon and Goat Cheese Mold

1 pinch 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp

freshly ground black pepper balsamic vinegar extra-virgin olive oil

Have fun picking out a retro decorative mold, like the copper salmon mold I used here. If you’re in a pinch, you can always use a Bundt pan or a medium-sized bowl. The dish will still turn out great. This recipe can be prepared up to two days ahead of your party.

1 cup 8 oz 1 tsp 2 Tbsp 1 pinch 1 pinch 1 cup

Serves | 15 |

KALAMATA OLIVE TAPENADE

TOMATO LAYER

3 1 clove 2 tsp 1 pinch

large tomatoes, seeded, diced small garlic, minced fresh rosemary, chopped fine salt

CHEESE AND SALMON LAYER

2 cups 1 clove 1 Tbsp 3 tsp ½ cup

herbed chevre, softened cream cheese, softened fresh lemon zest fresh lemon juice salt freshly ground black pepper diced smokedsalmon

pitted kalamata olives, drained garlic herbes de Provence anchovy paste extra-virgin olive oil

PUNCH PAIRING

The nuttiness of the sherry and smoothness of the rum accentuate the unique flavor of goat cheese. With tart lime juice and the sweet, floral notes of St-Germain mingling with the saltiness of the tapenade, your palate will be dancing with joy.

of plastic wrap big enough that it hangs over the sides. Drain extra liquid off the tomatoes. Spoon half the tomato mixture into the bottom of the mold and spread evenly. Spoon half the cheese and salmon mixture over the tomatoes and spread evenly with the back of a spoon. Spoon half the tapenade on top of the cheese and spread evenly. Repeat layers. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight, until ready to serve.

| Preparation | Prepare this punch no

| To Serve | Fill a sink with enough hot water to dunk the bottom of the mold in for about a minute, just long enough to loosen the mold. It may also help to go around the inside of the mold with a knife. Invert the

more than 2 hours before serving. Mix all ingredients in a large container, stir and adjust flavors to your liking. When ready to serve, place a large ice cube (see page 52) in a punch bowl and pour contents in bowl. Ladle into cups over ice.

Serves | 10 | 10 oz 10 oz 10 oz 5 oz 5 oz

HOSTED BY CATHERINE NEVILLE PUBLISHER AND EDITOR, FEAST

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DECEMBER 2011

Serenade of a Scallywag

white rum, preferably Flor de Caña or DonQ fresh lemon juice St-Germain elderflower liqueur simple syrup (equal parts sugar and water) amontillado, preferably Alvear

Join me for a 10-day luxury cruise from Istanbul to Venice with fabulous ports of call ranging from Ephesus to Athens. Share the flavors, sights and sounds with me during this incredible journey. Sailing with Oceania Cruises onboard Riviera, a brand-new ship that is one of the first cruise ships designed for food lovers. There are 10 dining venues onboard. Throughout the trip, we'll eat and drink together and you can even join me as I teach cooking classes on board; the ship's Bon Appetit Culinary Center is the only hands-on cooking school at sea. You'll be seduced by the sights, sounds and flavors of each port city's culture and find a rejuvenating, sophisticated retreat every night while aboard the ship. I'll see you onboard!


Pumpkin Bread Pudding with Eggnog Sauce The night before the party, prepare the bread pudding to the point of cooking. Cover and refrigerate. Also make the eggnog sauce and refrigerate overnight. In the morning, bake the bread pudding while you’re getting ready for work. Cover it when it comes out of the oven, and take it with you as you head out the door, with the sauce in a separate container. Keep the bread pudding covered until it’s time to serve. Microwave the sauce on 50 percent power for 1½ minutes before pouring over the bread pudding. Serves | 15 |

1 cup 6 1½ cups 3 cups ½ cup 1 cup 1 tsp 1 tsp ½ tsp 1 tsp ¼ tsp ½ tsp

4 cups 3 Tbsp 2 Tbsp

eggnog confectioners’ sugar rum

| Preparation – Pumpkin Bread Pudding | One day before preparing, set bread on the counter overnight so it will become stale. Heat oven to 350ºF. Coat the inside of an 11-by-14-inch foil or glass baking dish with cooking spray. Combine bread and pecans in a bowl. Set aside. In a separate large bowl, whisk together remaining ingredients. Add bread and pecans and toss to soak the bread. Add to baking dish and spread evenly. Bake 30 to 40 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove from oven and

PUMPKIN BREAD PUDDING

10 cups

EGGNOG SAUCE

cubed brioche, croissants, panettone or a combination pecans, toasted cooking spray large eggs, beaten canned pumpkin purée heavy cream melted butter brown sugar vanilla extract cinnamon ground nutmeg ground ginger ground cloves salt

cool slightly on a rack.

| Preparation – Eggnog Sauce | In a

Dairy’s Pride It’s customary to serve ice cream with dessert,

so why not try it in the form of a cocktail? It’s like having two desserts at once! To melt your ice cream, place it on the top shelf of your refrigerator overnight. The ice cream and the sparkling wine play the part of the ice. That’s right – no ice needed. Serves | 10 | 15 oz 5 oz

7 oz 33 oz

dry gin Maraschino liqueur, preferably Luxardo sparkling wine melted vanilla or butter pecan ice cream

large saucepan, whisk eggnog and confectioners’ sugar to combine. Bring

| Preparation |

to a simmer; be careful not to let it boil. Reduce sauce to desired thickness and

Chill gin, Maraschino liqueur and wine.

whisk in rum. Remove from heat.

Mix all ingredients in the punch bowl.

| To Assemble | Poke holes in the bread

You may add more

pudding and pour warm sauce over the

Maraschino, a little

top. The sauce will soak into the holes.

at a time, to adjust for taste.

Slice and serve.

Ladle into cups. Remember, no ice!

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Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

51


T I P

To make a single, large ice cube, fill a quart container with water, leaving about 2 fingers’ room at the top. Freeze overnight. Filtered water will be less cloudy, but tap water works just as well.

SE RE NA DE

52

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DECEMBER 2011

OF A SC AL LY

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DECEMBER 2011

55


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YOURS 2012 XC60 FWD

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WITH $0 CASH DUE AT SIGNING

For 36 months. Volvo makes the first $399 payment

STARTING AT MSRP

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Financing for 48 months**

*Safe + Secure Coverage Plan excludes tires. † No security deposit required. Monthly payment of $399, based on $32,025 MSRP of 2012 S60 T5 FWD. Includes destination charge. Lessee is responsible for excessive wear and mileage over 10,000 miles per year at $0.18/mile. **Starting MSRP $31,150. Excludes $675 of destination charge. Finance for 48 months at $21 per month per $1,000 financed. †‡No security deposit required. Monthly payment of $399, based on $33,775 MSRP of 2012 XC60 3.2 FWD, includes destination charge. Lessee is responsible for excessive wear and mileage over 10,000 miles/year at $0.18 / mile. ***Starting at MSRP $32,900. Excludes $875 destination charge. Finance for 72 months at $15 per month per $1,000 financed. Take new retail delivery from retailer stock now thru December 31, 2011. Please visit www.volvocars.com/us/safeandsecure or your local Volvo retailer for details on the Volvo Safe + Secure Coverage Plan and for further details specific to leased vehicles. Car shown with optional equipment. Advanced lease payment and financing excludes taxes, title, and registration fees and are available for qualified customers through U.S. Bank. Payments may vary as retailer determines price. Offers available at participating retailers. See retailer for details.

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LUXE forless STORY bY D. Scott Tjaden PhOTOgRaPhY bY Michael Jacob

A great tablescape is inventive, inviting and festive. With these expert DIY tricks and insider shopping tips, you can create a beautiful holiday table for less than

$200.


58

feastSTL.com

DECEMBER 2011


plaCe CardS

CandleStICkS

Handmade Chinese takeout containers are a unique alternative to traditional place cards. The containers can hold a personalized gift, or guests can use them at the end of the night to take home small desserts. (Be sure to wrap any food placed in these paper containers.) You can find a template for making these boxes at Amazon.com. Modern, Japanese-designed, heavy-weight gift wrap from Blick Art Materials or Art Mart is a good stock for the containers. After assembling the boxes, cut out 2x3-inch rectangles from plain paper and carefully write your guests’ names on them. Apply the rectangles to the boxes. (Consider making bows out of the same ribbon you use for the tablecloth.)

Modern glass candlesticks were used in this tablescape. For a different look, shop your local thrift store for silver candlesticks or wooden ones that can be easily painted to match your décor.

Costs: The takeout container template from Amazon.com cost $2.99. Heavy-weight gift wrap was $2.99 at Blick Art Materials. Two boxes can be made from each sheet.

SIlver People often discard used silver plate that’s scratched or dented, making it a great find at garage sales or estate sales. Cost: All the silver in this tablescape was $18 at Goodwill.

CenterpIeCe MIrror A centerpiece mirror brightens up your table by reflecting light from candles and a chandelier, if you have one. The one used here is a simple, frameless, behind-the-door dorm mirror. Choose a mirror that works with the size and shape of your table. With a framed mirror, try spray-painting the frame brown and gluing pinecones to the frame. Cost: The frameless mirror from Target was $15.95.

FabrIC For a tableCloth The color of your tablecloth determines your palette for the entire design. Check your favorite fabric store to see what’s available for $10 or less a yard. Choose a solid fabric or a fabric with a pattern that has white in it. Either choice makes napkin coordination easier. You don’t need to make the napkins. Use what you have or buy white napkins. To create a tablecloth with a 12-inch drop, add 24 inches to both measurements in your table dimensions. (For example, if your table is 48 inches wide and 84 inches long, you’d need a 72-by-108-inch piece of cloth.) Since the width of a bolt of fabric is normally 52 inches, you’ll have to purchase two lengths and use iron-on tape and grosgrain ribbon to hide the seam. If you can’t sew a hem, attach ribbon all the way around the bottom with a glue gun to hide the unfinished edges. Costs: Six yards of fabric was bought on sale for $4.95 per yard at Hancock Fabrics. The iron-on tape was $6.95. Two spools of $5 wedding ribbon were purchased at Hobby Lobby. You can buy a package of 12 napkins at Tuesday Morning for $17.99. Note: Polyester fabric can be washed and rarely needs ironing. Avoid netting; anything spilled on it will run through the holes and onto your table surface.

Cost: The candlesticks were $5.99 on sale at Hobby Lobby.

lIghtS Battery-powered faux candles are great for dinner parties; they add ambiance without aroma or dripped wax on your table. Place a handful of Everlasting Glow flameless ivory wax candles around the table in random positions. They’re made from real wax, so no one will suspect they’re not real candles. Cost: At Hobby Lobby, Everlasting Glow flameless ivory wax candles with drip effect are $9 for a set of three. Real candles used here were $2.99 for a package of six.

FlowerS and greenery To save time, order a floral arrangement and place it in a milk-glass container from Goodwill. A general rule of thumb is to keep table decorations no taller than the distance from your elbow to your hand. Your guests should be able to see over your floral arrangements. Push boxwood, juniper or other greenery clippings onto kenzans, pinpointed devices used in ikebana, or Japanese flower arranging, to create smaller arrangements and place them on either side of the centerpiece. Add leftover flowers from the floral arrangement to play off the centerpiece. Costs: The milk-glass container was $1; the custom floral arrangement from Schnucks was $45. You can buy ikebana kenzans at estate sales, at local craft stores or online. They last forever and, if they rust, simply spray them with Rust-Oleum.

the FInal tally Fabric Fabric Tape Ribbon Napkins Wrapping Paper Silver (not incl. silverware) Candlesticks (2) Divided Dish, Limoges Kenzans Candles Floral Arrangment Template for Boxes Chargers (6) Milk Glass Container

+ + + + + + + + + + + + +

$29.70 $6.95 $11.98 $17.95 $8.97 $18.00 $11.98 $4.00 $8.00 $2.99 $45.00 $2.99 $11.94 $1.00

total = $181.45 Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

59


Simply The Best Great Steaks and Seafood

Kreis' serves the finest USDA Prime Mid Western Corn-fed Beef, aged four to six weeks in house. We offer an extensive choice of the classic Steak Cuts and Seafood including our famous Prime Rib. Simply the best available-Top 2%. As well as Colorado Lamb Chops, the best you can buy!

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OR - 20% Off your bill Discount up to $20 *Valid only with purchases of two dinner entrees. Dine-in only. Not valid on holidays or with any other discount. Not valid Christmas Eve or New Year's Eve. Reservations recommended. Walk-Ins always accepted. Tax & gratuity not included in discount. Expires 1/31/12.

(Conveniently located 1/3 mile north of Highway 40/64 between Conway and Ladue Road)

Legend of the Pig! This "Peppermint Pig"

as optly it was named, was cast of hard candy, similar in fashion to candy cane and festive pink in color. And while the pig is honored in Victorian Holiday tradition as a symbol of good health, happiness and prosperity, these special "Pepperment Pigs" come to represent much more. After the holiday dinner, the Pigs were broken and shared by all in hopes of good fortune the coming year. Start a new family tradition, get your "Peppermint Pig" at Sweet Be's.

Wishing Peace to all of You this Christmas Season!

12027 Manchester Road Des Peres, MO 63131 314-835-1400 www.SweetBe.com

The Place For Food, Fun & Fiesta! Celebrate your Christmas party or special occasion at Zapata's. • Big Screen TV's for any sport • Karaoke and dancing every Friday night • Home of the BEST Margarita's • Daily lunch Buffet for $5.99 • December dinner specials every night • Call for carry out

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Tara Point is located just 12 National Scenic Byway miles upriver from Alton, atop a bluff overlooking the Mississippi River. Many say it’s the most beautiful view in the Midwest. All Inn & Cottage Suites have great river Views.

Box 1 • Grafton, IL 62037 • www.tarapoint.com • For Brochure or Reservations: (618) 786-3555 • Fax: (618) 786-3255 60

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DECEMBER 2011


X

a

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Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

61


CEN ERPIECE desserts Recipes by Tim Brennan, Cravings

photogRaphy by Jennifer Silverberg

Baking takes center stage during the holidays, so we asked cake baker extraordinaire, tim brennan of cravings, to share some of his most show-stopping recipes. From fun and festive to simple and elegant, these delectable desserts will garner oohs and ahs from guests. and check out page 71 to watch brennan’s step-by-step videos showcasing his professional techniques.

Chocolate-Mint Cake Serves | 18 to 20 | Cake

4 oz ¾ cup 22/3 cups 2 tsp 2 tsp 1 tsp 2 2 cups 1 tsp 2 cups

unsweetened chocolate unsalted butter, plus more for greasing pans unbleached flour baking soda baking powder salt large eggs granulated sugar pure mint extract boiling water, divided

Frosting

4 cups ½ cup 1 cup 2 lbs 1½ tsp 2 cups

heavy cream unsalted butter granulated sugar Valhrona bittersweet chocolate, chopped pure mint extract crushed hard-candy peppermints, for garnish

| Preparation – Cake | preheat oven to 350ºF. Melt chocolate and butter in a double boiler. in a large bowl, sift together flour through salt and set aside. butter three 9-inch cake pans. in a large bowl, mix eggs, sugar and mint extract. add melted chocolate and butter. stir until blended. add 1 cup boiling water. stir until blended, scraping the bottom and sides of the bowl. add the sifted dry ingredients and stir until blended. scrape bowl and stir again. add remaining boiling water and stir to combine. Divide batter evenly among the three cake pans. bake 18 to 22 minutes. cool 10 minutes and invert onto a rack. cool completely. May be made one day in advance. | Preparation – Frosting | bring cream, butter and sugar to a boil. Remove from heat and add chocolate, making sure it is completely submerged. Let sit for 5 minutes. add mint extract and stir until chocolate is completely melted. Refrigerate for 2 hours, until frosting is the texture of mayonnaise. | To Assemble | place 1 cooled cake on a serving plate and top with frosting. add another layer of cake and top with frosting. add the final layer of cake and frost the top and sides. press the crushed peppermints onto the sides and top of cake. chill for 30 minutes and serve.

Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

63


Raspberry Cream Cake Serves | 12 to 16 | RaspbeRRy Gelée

1 lb ½ cup 2 Tbsp ½ cup

frozen raspberries granulated sugar, or more to taste gelatin cold water

sponGe Cake

1½ cups 1½ cups 4 3 oz 3 cups

unsalted butter (at room temperature), plus more for greasing pans granulated sugar eggs water self-rising flour

RaspbeRRy CReam FillinG

3 cups ½ cup 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp ¼ cup 12 oz

heavy whipping cream confectioners’ sugar Chambord gelatin cold water fresh raspberries

Whipped CReam FRostinG

2 cups ¼ cup 1 tsp

heavy whipping cream confectioners’ sugar pure vanilla extract

| Preparation – Raspberry Gelée | Purée raspberries in blender, and pour through a fine-mesh strainer. Mix in sugar. Dissolve gelatin in water and incorporate. Pour into two 9-inch cake pans lined with plastic wrap. Freeze overnight until firm. Only 1 pan of gelée will be used in this recipe. Keep the other frozen for later use.

| Preparation – Sponge Cake | Preheat oven to 350ºF. Butter two 8-inch cake pans that are 2½ to 3 inches deep. In a large bowl, cream butter with sugar until fluffy. In a separate bowl, mix eggs with water. Combine half the egg mixture with the butter mixture. Add half the flour and mix well. Incorporate remaining egg mixture , then incoporate remaining flour. Divide cake batter between pans. Bake 18 to 22 minutes or until springy in center and pale-golden in color. Remove from oven and cool for 10 minutes on a rack. Invert cakes and cool completely.

| Preparation – Raspberry Cream Filling | Whip cream and sugar until firm. Stir in Chambord. Dissolve gelatin in water and microwave on high for 30 seconds. Add in a continuous stream to filling with mixer on low. Scrape the bowl thoroughly. Add raspberries and gently blend. Place 1 cake on a serving platter. Top with a 1½- to 2-inch layer of raspberry cream. Top with second cake. Remove excess filling on the sides. Freeze for 4 hours.

| Preparation – Whipped Cream Frosting | Whip cream, sugar and vanilla until firm. Remove cake from freezer and frost the sides only.

| To Assemble | Remove 1 pan of gelée from freezer and invert onto top of cake. Pipe with remaining whipped cream frosting to finish the top. Serve the same day.


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Call 314.589.5925 for tickets or go to stlouisblues.com/ladies Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

65


Boule de Neige (Snowball)

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Serves | 12 to 14 | 1 lb 1 cup 1½ cups 1 pinch 6 1 quart 2 Tbsp

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good-quality bittersweet chocolate (preferably Valrhona), chopped into ¼-inch pieces whole milk unsalted butter, plus more for greasing bowl sea salt large egg yolks heavy whipping cream mild honey white chocolate curls (recipe follows)

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| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350ºF. Melt the chocolate and milk in a double boiler. Stir occasionally to make sure the chocolate is completely melted. Transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer and let cool for 5 minutes. In a separate bowl, whip butter until soft, free of lumps and easy to spread. Mix chocolate on the lowest speed (to avoid adding excess air or volume) and add whipped butter in 6 additions, making sure each addition is completely blended before adding the next. When butter is completely incorporated, add egg yolks 2 at a time. Again, be certain each batch of yolks is thoroughly incorporated before adding the next. Transfer the mixture to a 2-quart stainless steel bowl lined with foil and brushed with melted butter. Bake for 25 minutes. The center of the dessert will still be wobbly and liquid. Cool at room temperature for 20 minutes. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and place in freezer overnight. Once frozen solid, invert the dessert onto a serving platter, remove the bowl and peel off the foil. Whip cream until soft peaks form. Add honey and whip until firm. Using a large star tip, pipe whipped cream in vertical stripes across the entire dessert. Cover with white chocolate curls and serve.

White Chocolate Curls Yield | about 18 curls, depending on size | 8 oz 1/8 cup

good-quality white chocolate (preferably Callebaut or Lindt) vegetable oil

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Using a small, offset metal spatula, spread half the chocolate onto a 12inch square (or bigger) marble slab. The chocolate strip should be 1/8-inch thick, about 12 inches long and 4 to 6 inches wide. Be sure to spread the chocolate as evenly as possible. Let chocolate stand for 1 to 2 minutes. Press with your fingertip to determine whether it has set all the way through. If not, you’ll see a crust on the outside and melted chocolate underneath. Wait 1 to 2 minutes longer and test again. The chocolate should be set but not completely hardened.

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Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

67


Lavender Lemon Angel Food Cake Serves | 12 to 14 | Cake

1 cup 2 cups 1 pinch 1 Tbsp 1½ cups 1 tsp 1 Tbsp 1 tsp 1 tsp

cake flour, sifted granulated sugar, divided sea salt organic lavender blossoms egg whites (about 10 to 12 eggs) cream of tartar lemon juice cold water vanilla

Lemon Curd

6 2 2 cups 6 oz 3 1 cup

large eggs egg yolks granulated sugar fresh lemon juice lemons, zested unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes

Lemon Cream FiLLing

1 quart 1 Tbsp ¼ cup 3 cups approx. 12

heavy cream gelatin cold water prepared lemon curd, chilled lavender blossoms or candied violets*

| Preparation – Cake | Preheat oven to 350ºF. Sift flour, 1/3 cup sugar and salt 3 times. Place remaining sugar and

lavender blossoms in a food processor and pulse a few times to activate the oils. Discard any hard pieces. Beat egg whites until foamy. Add cream of tartar, lemon juice, water and vanilla. Increase speed and beat until almost stiff, about 3 minutes. Reduce to low and gradually add lavender sugar. Continue beating until stiff but not dry. Transfer to a large bowl. Fold ¼ cup of flour mixture into egg whites. Continue folding in ¼ cup at a time until fully incorporated. Divide batter evenly among four 9-inch cake pans lined with parchment paper. Bake 20 to 30 minutes. Cool in pans for 10 minutes, then invert onto a rack to cool completely.

| Preparation – Lemon Curd | Add eggs and yolks to a double boiler and mix to blend. Add sugar, lemon juice and lemon zest. Stir to completely blend. Add butter. Cook, stirring continuously, until the butter melts. After butter is melted, cook an additional 15 minutes. Chill completely. May be made up to 10 days in advance. You will have more curd than called for in this recipe. Leftover curd is great with blueberry muffins or scones.

| Preparation – Lemon Cream Filling | Whip cream until peaks form. Dissolve gelatin in water and microwave on high for 30 seconds. Drizzle warm gelatin into whipped cream. Fold mixture into lemon curd. | To Assemble | Place 1 cake on a serving plate and top with 1 cup of filling. Continue until all layers are used, ending with filling on the top. Frost sides with remaining cream. Garnish with candied violets and serve. * Can be purchased online


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“It's a Wonderful Death”

The Bissell Mansion Murder Mystery Dinner Theatre would like to invite you to "It's a Wonderful Death" hosted by George and Mary Bailey. This presentation is a parody of Frank Capra's classic "It's a Wonderful Life." You will meet and perhaps be one of these unforgettable characters: Uncle Billy, Clarence Angel Second Class, Violet Bick, Bert the Cop and Ernie the Cabdriver just to name a few. Join us to discover who murdered the cantankerous Mr. Potter among the many suspects in Bedford Falls.

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Lunch Tuesday - Friday Dinner Tuesday - Sunday Valid only with purchase of two entrees. Dine-in only. Not valid on holidays or with any other discount. Sunday Buffet 10:30-2 Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

69


Chocolate-Hazelnut Dome Serves | 12 to 14 | Brownies

1 lb 8 oz 4 cups 6 1 tsp 2 cups 1 tsp

unsalted butter, divided, plus more for greasing sheets unsweetened baker’s chocolate, finely chopped granulated sugar large eggs pure vanilla extract unbleached flour salt

Hazelnut Mousse

2 cups 1 lb 2 cups 1 quart

hazelnuts cream cheese granulated sugar whipping cream

CHoColate Glaze

¼ cup 2 Tbsp 1 cup

cream unsalted butter bittersweet chocolate

| Preparation – Brownies | Preheat oven to 350ºF with racks in the top and bottom thirds of oven. Cut 8 oz butter into ½-inch cubes. Place in double boiler with chocolate and melt completely. Remove and cool for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, whip remaining butter with sugar until well blended. Add eggs two at a time, scraping the bowl between each addition. Stir in vanilla and melted chocolate, and blend completely, scraping bottom and sides of bowl. Sift flour and salt. Add to chocolate mixture in thirds, scraping the bowl as necessary. Butter two 12-by-18-inch baking sheets. Line with parchment paper and butter the paper. Divide batter evenly between pans and place on separate racks in the oven. Bake for 22 minutes, rotating baking sheets front to back and top to bottom after 15 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes and invert each onto an overturned baking sheet. Refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight. Line a 2-quart stainless steel bowl with heavy plastic wrap that extends 2 inches beyond the bowl. Make a construction-paper template that is 2 inches at the base, 3¾ inches at the top and 4 inches on each side. Trace 7 copies on parchment paper. Trace 1 round template that is 3¾ inches in diameter (a coffee mug or large glass should work as a model). Trace 1 round template that is 9½ inches in diameter. Once the brownie layers are cool and firm, use the parchment-paper templates to cut the shapes indicated above. Place the small, round brownie piece in the center of the lined bowl and surround with the 7 side pieces. Use cut-brownie scraps to seal the seams by applying gentle but firm pressure.

| Preparation – Hazelnut Mousse | Preheat oven to 350ºF. Toast hazelnuts for 9 minutes. Transfer to a food processor and blend until smooth, about 2 to 4 minutes. Let cool. Whip cream cheese and sugar, scraping as necessary. Once smooth, add hazelnuts and mix well. Transfer to a 6-quart bowl. In a separate bowl, whip cream until firm. Fold into the hazelnut mixture.

With the holiday season quickly approaching, this December is a very important time to be able to hear all the wonderful sounds around you. From songs of the season to conversations with loved ones… all sounds should be celebrated. If you are experiencing any troubles with your ability to hear, call us today to set up an appointment for a complimentary hearing screening - it could just be ear wax. If it’s found a hearing loss is present, you’ll have the opportunity to try the latest digital hearing aids for 7 days FREE or 30 days risk FREE. You have nothing to lose and everything to gain… including better hearing!

Happy Holidays from

Add the hazelnut mousse to the brownie-lined bowl, leaving ½ inch of space at the top. Smooth mousse, then add the 9½-inch brownie piece and gently seal. Freeze for 4 hours or up to 1 week.

| Preparation – Chocolate Glaze | Place cream and butter in a 2-quart pot and bring to a boil. Remove from heat. Add chocolate and let sit for 5 minutes. Stir until smooth and let cool for 10 minutes.

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Inspired Food Culture

DECEMBER 2011

73


puLL up a chair

DaViES BENch WrITTen By Erin Callier

Just as Michelangelo’s stone had a statue waiting to be discovered inside, the trees that woodworker David Stine sustainably harvests from his family’s farm in Jersey County, Ill., are destined to become the custom furnishings he handcrafts with care. Available in a variety of local wood species, the Davies Bench is rustic yet refined – ideal for cozy family gatherings and holiday feasts. $2,750; David Stine Woodworking, stinewoodworking.com

Local designers suggest three dining tables to complement the rustic artfulness of this handcrafted bench:

MANOR HOUSE TRESTLE TABLE

“I would pair the Davies Bench with this trestle table by Furniture Classics because the strength of the table complements the rustic style of the bench. I also love how the bench has a ‘found’ look and feel, and the wood is similar to that of the table, but they aren’t matchy matchy.”

Maureen Russell, Diane Breckenridge Interiors $2,630; Diane Breckenridge Interiors, 501 S. Lindbergh Blvd., Frontenac, breckenridgeinteriors.com

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CHATHAM DINING TABLE AND BASE

“The Chatham Dining Table is a perfect match for the Davies Bench. Bucolic and elegant, the Chatham table is a stylish mix of rustic wood on a cast- iron base. Like the Davies Bench, each tabletop is custom-made with heirloom quality. The eclectic lines of both the tabletop and bench make for an exquisite combination.”

Kathlean May, Arhaus Furniture $1,999 to $2,899 depending on size and finish of tabletop; Arhaus Furniture, 1657 S. Brentwood Blvd., Brentwood, arhaus.com

ICONOCLAST TABLE

“The Iconoclast Table, with its deviation from the standard, four-legged design; asymmetry; and solid- wood elements, would complement the Davies Bench very well. While the bench is free-flowing, organic and conforms only to the will of the wood, the Iconoclast is strictly mathematical. The two complement one another in material but contradict one another in execution, which creates a dialogue that results in a pleasurable aesthetic experience.”

Thomas Wall, Mitchell Wall Architecture and Design $7,600 for 110-by-42-inch table; IZM, izm.ca


Missouri's #1 Automotive Group There Can Only Be One #1 Source, bureau of Missouri Automotive registration 2010.

MISSOURI'S #1 INFINITI RETAILER* WITH MISSOURI'S LARGEST INVENTORY

G25 SEDAN, G37 SEDAN, G37 COUPE, G37 CONVERTIBLE, EX35, FX35, FX50, M37, M56, QX56

ALL WHEEL DRIVE

1.9

%

APR AVAILABLE FOR

60

MOS.*

2011 INFINITI G37 SEDAN "WHERE PRICE SELLS CARS"

INFINITI West County

SALES - SERVICE - PARTS - COLLISION REPAIR

15736 Manchester at Clarkson Rd. • (636) 391-9400 • 800-367-2289 www.BommaritoInfiniti.com

*Based On 2010 Sales Summary Infiniti Motor Division, Nissan North America. 1.9% apr for 60 mos. = $17.85 per $1,000 financed.



December 2011 FEAST Magazine