November 2022 Feast Magazine

NOVEMBER 2022

How to

Holiday Festive recipes, take-home meals & community care

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Contents /9/

THE DISH The Moist Maker from Sisters Sandwich Shoppe

/ 10 / QUICK FIX Caramelized Pumpkin Pie

/ 11 / ONE ON ONE Julie Lock of Food Outreach

/ 13 / HEALTHY APPETITE Pan De Jamón

/ 14 / ONE ON ONE Ray and Leah Yeh of The Foundry Bakery

/ 15 / MYSTERY SHOPPER Rose Harissa

/ 16 / HOMETOWN HITS Hanukkah Must-Haves

/ 17 / RESTAURANTS REVIEWED Highlights from Ian Froeb

/ 20 / ONE INGREDIENT, 3 WAYS Green Beans

/ 22 / FEATURE: FOOD FOR THE SOUL Holiday soul food traditions from local restaurateurs

/ 26 / FEATURE: HOLIDAY TAKEOUT GUIDE Where to order Thanksgiving turkeys, sides, pies and more in St. Louis

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FEATURE: FOOD FOR THE SOUL

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FEATURE: HOLIDAY TAKEOUT

PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERMAN

/ 28 / FEATURE: MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR LEFTOVERS Easy recipes for reviving your favorite holiday dishes ON THE COVER Spaghetti with Brussels Sprout Pangrattato puts an Italian spin on Thanksgiving dishes.

PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

/ 32 / FEATURE: GIVING BACK Meet the activist helping feed St. Louisans in need

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PHOTO BY GRACE MEAT + THREE

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FEATURE: GIVING BACK PHOTO BY THEO R. WELLING

11/20 St. Louis Post-Dispatch Holiday Pop & Shop Sunday, Nov. 20, 12 to 4 p.m.; tickets start at $15, The Grand Hall on Chouteau, 2319 Choteau Ave., St. Louis, Missouri Get in the holiday spirit at the St. Louis Post-Dispatch Holiday Pop & Shop on Sunday, Nov. 20. Enjoy cozy cocktails, complimentary brunch bites, shopping from local vendors, live music and more! This year we bring Sunday Funday to The Grand Hall on Chouteau. Limited VIP and general admission tickets are available.

Visit STLtoday.com/OurEvents for more information.

LET US TAKE THE WORK OUT OF

Thanksgiving

11/22 Schnucks Cooks: Caramelized Pumpkin Pie Tuesday, Nov. 22, 6 to 9 p.m.; $100; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road, Des Peres, Missouri; nourish.schnucks.com/ web-ext/cooking-school In this class, we will learn all about baking and crafting excellent Thanksgiving desserts. We will make caramelized pumpkin pie, chocolate pecan pie and cranberry and candied ginger buckle.

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Fully prepared Thanksgiving meals and fresh turkeys

Call ahead to order 4324 Weber Road, St. Louis MO 63123

314-631-2440 Kenricks.com nov e mbe r 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

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Inspired Local Food Culture /

NOVEMBER

ST. LOUIS

2022

VOLUME 12 / ISSUE 11 PUBLISHER, Ian Caso

EDITORIAL

SALES

EDITOR IN CHIEF

VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES

Emily Adams,

Kevin Hart, khart@stlpostmedia.com

emily.adams@feastmagazine.com MEDIA STRATEGIST MANAGING EDITOR

Mary Andino, mandino@feastmagazine.com

Erin Wood, ewood@feastmagazine.com

ART DIGITAL EDITOR

Shannon Weber, sweber@feastmagazine.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Charlotte Renner, crenner@feastmagazine.com ASSISTANT EDITOR

Emily Standlee, estandlee@feastmagazine.com

ART DIRECTOR

Dawn Deane, dawn.deane@feastmagazine.com ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR

Laura DeVlieger, lauradevlieger@laduenews.com CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Christina Kling-Garrett, Sean Locke, Ben Nickelson, Jennifer Silverberg, Mabel Suen, Theo R. Welling

FACT CHECKER

Meghan Baker

CONTACT US

PROOFREADER

Alecia Humphreys

Feast Magazine 901 N. 10th St., St. Louis, MO 63101 314.475.1260 | feastmagazine.com

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

DISTRIBUTION

Aurora Blanchard, Elizabeth Donald, Amy

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place

Feese, Amber Fisher, Alecia Humphreys,

of business, please contact Rich Hudson at

Mabel Suen, Gaby Weir Vera, Theo R. Welling

rhudson@post-dispatch.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2022 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by Lee Enterprises.

Local STL catering makes holiday prep simple and delicious!

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Imagine your home, totally organized!

Custom Closets Garage Cabinets Home Offices Pantries, Laundries and Hobby Rooms.

editor’s letter Every holiday morning – no matter

of Cathy Daniels – the local activist

which one – my family eats Stromboli.

affectionately known as Mama Cat

The tradition started because the

– who is uplifting and supporting her

dish was both loved by all and easy

community one meal at a time.

2018 © All Rights Reserved. Closets by Design, Inc.

Pantry

to prepare the night before, and therefore led to a stress-free morning

And if you are looking for your own

that everyone could enjoy. But now,

way to have a holiday that’s easy like

after many years of associating

a Stromboli morning, turn to p. 26 for

that freshly baked smell and that

our top picks of locally made take-

savory flavor with some of our best

home holiday staples that will both

memories, no special occasion would

delight and save you time. Looking for

feel quite as special without it.

more ways to simplify your life this

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40% off any order of $1,000 or more. 30% off any order of $700 or more. On any complete Closet, Garage, or Home Office. Take an additional 15% off on any complete system order. Not valid with any other offer. Free installation with any complete unit order of $500 or more. With incoming order, at time of purchase only. Expires 11/30/22.

season? Try out the recipes on p. 28 Food gives us cause to gather – not

to transform all of those leftovers

only on marked calendar dates but

into dishes that impress, and be sure

also every day of the year. Food

to check out Dierbergs’ Thanksgiving

conjures nostalgia and sparks

tips on p. 18.

traditions you can quite literally sink your teeth into.

I hope this issue serves as your helpful handbook to celebrate the holidays

On p. 22, associate editor Charlotte

without the stress but with all the joy

Renner chats with the owners of two

that festive feasts can offer.

local soul food restaurants about what their favorite dishes mean to them

www.closetsbydesign.com

SPECIAL FINANCING for up to 18 Months!

With approved credit. Call or ask your Designer for details. Not available in all areas.

Cheers!

and how the history of soul food adds

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significance to everything they do.

314-310-0099

For a taste of something heartwarming this holiday season,

Emily Adams

flip to p. 32 for the inspirational story

emily.adams@feastmagazine.com

PD

Locally Owned and Operated Like us on

and nov e mbe r 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

7

May We Suggest Chicken?

Wishing Your Family the Happiest Thanksgiving. From our Family Businesses.

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THE DISH

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QUICK FIX

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H E A LT H Y A P P E T I T E

/

MYSTERY SHOPPER

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HOMETOWN HITS

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ONE INGREDIENT

Moist Maker

The

WRITTEN BY AURORA BLANCHARD | PHOTOS BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

The Moist Maker, made famous by the TV show “Friends,” returns as a special from mid-November until Christmas on the menu of Sisters Sandwich Shoppe.

After its success as a special in 2021, the first year the Sisters Sandwich Shoppe was open, it’s bound to reprise its role as a bestselling special in 2022.

Similar to “Friends” character Monica Geller’s recipe from the show, the Moist Maker features turkey, cranberry sauce, whipped sweet potatoes and herb stuffing with an extra slice of gravy-soaked bread in the middle for mouthfeel. The flavor profile ranges from salty to sweet to sour to umami.

Co-owners and sisters Jules Karagiannis and Tracy Calabro agree that the herb

stuffing concocted by Karagiannis’ husband is the secret ingredient. He keeps the stuffing fresh by cooking new batches for the sandwich often. Karagiannis’ daughter is a “Friends” fanatic and helped taste test during the early stages of recipe development.

“It’s Thanksgiving on a sandwich; it’s a whole Thanksgiving meal between two slices of bread,” Karagiannis says.

According to Calabro, guests were surprised by the large size last year. The dish is served with a fork and knife, and depending on one’s appetite, the sandwich could be shared or saved for leftovers.

“We hope that if people came and loved it last year, they can come back,” Calabro says. “If they weren’t able to try it last year, it’s only here for a limited time, so they should stop by before it’s gone.”

Sisters Sandwich Shoppe, 5353 Devonshire Ave., Southampton, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-405-8011, sisterssandwichshoppe.com nov e mbe r 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

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THE DISH

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QUICK FIX

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H E A LT H Y A P P E T I T E

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MYSTERY SHOPPER

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HOMETOWN HITS

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ONE INGREDIENT

Caramelized PUMPKIN PIE

This is my go-to Thanksgiving pumpkin pie. I ran across the recipe in a book containing all the best pies from pie contests across the country. This recipe won first place in the 2002 American Pie Council Crisco National Pie Championships and was submitted by Sarah Spaugh from North Carolina. The only thing I change from the original when I make it is to substitute Crisco for butter in the crust, which gives it the flavor and consistency of a flaky pecan cookie. Don’t let the apple butter scare you; it adds a depth of caramelized flavor that really makes this dessert stand out from the average pumpkin pie.

In this class, we will learn all about baking and craft some excellent Thanksgiving desserts.

WRITTEN BY AMY FEESE | PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

G et Hands-On Join Schnucks Cooking School chef Amy Feese in person at 6 p.m. on Nov. 22 to make this and more holiday sweets. Get a head start on your Thanksgiving meal, and let us do the dishes!

You will go home with two pies ready to take to dinner and a buckle that can be eaten for breakfast or dessert.

for more information and to buy tickets, visit nourish.schnucks.com/schnuckscooking-school or call 314-909-1704.

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YIELDS | ONE 9-INCH PIE |

CRUST 1½ 1½ 2 ½ ¾ ½ 3-4 3-4

cups unsifted all-purpose flour Tbsp confectioners’ sugar, sifted tsp kosher salt cup unsalted butter, chilled cup chopped pecans Tbsp ice water

FILLING 3 2 ¼ ½ ¼ ½ 1 ½ ¼ ¼8 ¼ ¾ ¼

large eggs cups fresh pumpkin, mashed or 15-oz can solid packed pumpkin cup apple butter cup granulated sugar cup firmly packed dark brown sugar tsp kosher salt tsp allspice tsp cinnamon tsp freshly ground nutmeg tsp ground clove cup 100 percent amber maple syrup cup milk cup cream

/ crust preparation / Whisk together the flour, confectioners’ sugar and salt in a large bowl. Cut or work the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the pecans, and toss with a fork to incorporate. Add the ice water, a tablespoon at a time, drizzling it around the edge of the bowl.

Stir with the fork until moist clumps form. With lightly floured hands, shape the dough into a 5-inch flat disk. Cover the dough with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Roll dough to fit a 9-inch pie pan. / filling preparation / Preheat oven to 350°F. Beat the eggs lightly with a whisk in a large bowl. Stir in pumpkin and apple butter. Combine the sugars, salt and spices, and stir into egg mixture. Slowly stir in the maple syrup, milk and cream, and mix until just smooth. / assembly / Pour filling into pie shell. Cover the edges with foil to prevent burning. Bake for about 50 minutes or until center is set. Remove the cover from the edges, and bake for an additional 5 to 10 minutes to brown the edges if needed. Remove from oven, and let cool. Whip cream with sugar for topping, and sprinkle on toffee bits for serving.

MAKE THE MEAL

GARNISHES

○ Caramelized Pumpkin Pie

1 3 ¼

○ Chocolate Pecan Pie

cup heavy cream Tbsp pulverized sugar cup caramel toffee bits

○ Cranberry and Candied Ginger Buckle

ONE ON ONE

Julie Lock / Executive Director of Food Outreach

ONE on

WRITTEN BY ELIZABETH DONALD | PHOTOS BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

If food is medicine, Food Outreach of St. Louis gives patients in need some of the most important tools to survive and thrive.

Food Outreach of St. Louis has operated since 1988 and was originally founded to provide food support to HIV-positive and AIDS patients – people who were being marginalized, isolated and ignored, according to executive director Julie Lock.

The program’s scope has since expanded to include people with cancer and now people with uncontrolled diabetes. Currently, its thousands of clients live in 160 ZIP codes in Illinois and Missouri and range in age from 18 to 89.

Food Outreach provides scratchprepared, nutritious meals packaged mostly by volunteers, Phot

Photo supplied

o supplied

designed by dieticians with a focus

on nutritional counseling and support for the special needs of people with chronic illnesses. They provide two meals a day for two to four weeks at a time for low-income clients.

In addition to accepting food donations, which have decreased during the pandemic, monetary donations are also always welcomed to help them continue to provide meals.

What about these diseases leads to food insecurity? It’s very difficult, depending on what kind of treatment they’re going through, to get the proper nutrition they need to have their nutritional needs met. Their nutrition helps them maintain the body composition to be relatively well, while the virus is wreaking havoc in the body.

Nutrition helps address that.

To qualify, your clients must be low-income.

Is that often the case with these illnesses?

For regions like St. Louis, you can map neighborhood, ZIP code, chronic illness and poverty, and they relate significantly. Poverty impacts everything related to the social

determinants of health, including chronic illnesses. Many times, people who live in neighborhoods that are disinvested start their lives with health issues unfolding very quickly.

These disparities and inequities relate in urban and rural settings in the state of Missouri.

What is the biggest misunderstanding people have about your work? That our clients are all experiencing the same thing. What we learn about our individual clients is that they’re all individuals. We want to be really careful that we don’t make sweeping assumptions that one client in North County might be similar to a client in South St. Louis. We try to meet our clients where

they are, so when our clients need us or need more than what our agency can do, we are able to help them or refer them to other organizations.

The other misconception is that we have a lot of staff. We have about 14 people and 800 volunteers. It’s a shared challenge. A lot of individuals and organizations understand that what we’re doing is really critical. When we look at inequity and disparity in St. Louis, we’re doing something unique that sits on the foundation of dignity and kindness and love.

Food Outreach, 3117 Olive St., Midtown, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-652-3663, foodoutreach.org

Photo supplied

Food Outreach

Timeline  1988: Food Outreach founded by individuals cooking meals for seven friends living with HIV and AIDS.

 1996: Satellite grocery center opens and offers staple items for a client list in the hundreds.

 1997: Food Outreach hires its first full-time dietician.

 1999: The organization moves into a 10,000-square-foot facility in St. Louis’ Midtown with an industrial kitchen and grocery center.

 2000: Meal home delivery program launches for clients too ill to visit.

 2006: Services are expanded to people with cancer after pilot programs at Siteman Cancer Center and Washington University in St. Louis School of Medicine.

 2018: Food Outreach named “Health Advocate of the Year” by St. Louis Community Development Administration.

 2020: The organization pivots to contactfree curbside and home delivery service in response to COVID-19 pandemic.

 2021: Pilot program launches in partnership with VA Hospital System of St. Louis for veterans with uncontrolled Type II diabetes.

 2022: Meal home delivery expands to 350 clients, compared to 40 prior to pandemic.

nov e mbe r 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

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PROMOTION PROMOTI ON

PRESENTED BY

SCIENCE REVEALS MORE REASONS TO BANISH BOOZE S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T BY K AT H E R I N E L E W I S

NONALCOHOLIC BEER

NONALCOHOLIC WINE

The beer market is overflowing with more options than ever — and that includes beers sans alcohol. A small study published last summer in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry showed that participants who drank beer — even nonalcoholic varieties — over a period of four weeks were shown to have more “good” bacteria in their gastrointestinal tracts and better intestinal health overall than those who consumed no beer. Even athletes have gotten in on the trend, drinking nonalcoholic beers to lower inflammation and aid in recovery after strenuous activity.

Many of the benefits associated with red wine come from resveratrol, a compound found in the skin of grapes. When red wine is made, it ferments with the grapes’ skins intact longer than white wines do, making it a particularly good source of resveratrol. But it turns out that resveratrol is also present in nonalcoholic wines, as well as in grape juice and other red and blue berries. Although more study on resveratrol is needed, it’s thought that the compound may reduce LDL cholesterol and help prevent blood clots.

SPARKLING WATER

TEA

Sparkling water (or seltzer) is an excellent swap not only for alcohol, but also soda: It brings all the bubbles but none of the sugar or caffeine. Plus, it’s a much better way to stay hydrated, and there’s some evidence that drinking sparkling water makes swallowing easier for people who have dysphagia.

Certain water brands add ingredients that crank up the flavor in ways that are less than healthy, though. Keep an eye out for how much sugar and sodium these drinks contain.

Want to take the edge off at the end of the day? Consider reaching for the tea kettle rather than the beer fridge. Certain teas, particularly chamomile and lemon balm, can ease anxiety and help the body prepare for sleep.

Tea also makes a great afterdinner drink: Ginger tea may combat indigestion, bloating and constipation, while peppermint tea soothes the nerves and the stomach alike.

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

Apple-Ginger Fizz INGREDIENTS 1 inch piece of fresh ginger 24 oz apple cider 8 oz ginger beer

YOUR HEALTH TIPS

Ice Apple slices for garnish

The benefits of moderate drinking — namely, improved heart and circulatory health — have been touted for many years. But more recently, questions about this conventional wisdom have bubbled to the surface. Studies revealed compelling evidence that passing on booze altogether is the healthiest way to go.

“Alcohol increases the risk of at least five different cancers, including the risk of breast cancer and colon cancer, with just a few drinks a week,” says Yin Cao, ScD, MPH, associate professor of surgery and medicine at Washington University School of Medicine.

“Heavy drinking (>1 drink per day for women; >2 drinks per day for men) also increases the risk of liver disease, high-blood-pressurerelated heart disease and injuries, among a number of other harms.”

And that’s not just in the United States. Cao points out that alcohol is the most important risk factor linked to premature death in people ages 15 to 49 worldwide — a statistic that’s hard to swallow. “After hearing for so long about the heart health benefits of alcohol, it may take a little time to adjust to the idea that drinking zero alcohol is actually the safest and healthiest choice overall. But it’s something we can all work toward, and it’s easier than you might think.”

Want to reduce how much you drink? If you’re used to doing something in the evening to wind down, replace happy hour with a coffee or tea break. Or grab some friends and set out on a relaxing walk. The upcoming holiday season will bring lots of social events that often feature fully stocked bars, but they’re

1 tsp lemon juice Brown sugar and cinnamon for rim of glass

YIN CAO, ScD, MPH Associate professor of surgery and medicine at Washington University School of Medicine PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

also excellent opportunities to try out some alcohol-free alternatives. “Unsweetened coffees and teas are great choices.

Unsweetened fizzy waters are, too,” Cao says.

“And many nonalcoholic beers and spirits can taste a lot like the regular versions, making good substitutes in settings where people may normally choose a drink with alcohol.”

PREPARATION Using a muddler, press the ginger in a large glass or shaker.

Add cider and shake. On a small plate, combine brown sugar and cinnamon. Using a separate glass, first dip the rim into lemon juice, then into cinnamon-sugar mixture until rim is generously covered.

Place ice in the sugar-rimmed glass. Add 6 oz of apple-cider mixture into glass and top with 2 oz ginger beer. Garnish with fresh apple slices.

NUTRITION FACTS Makes about four servings.

100 calories per serving.

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THE DISH

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QUICK FIX

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H E A LT H Y A P P E T I T E

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MYSTERY SHOPPER

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HOMETOWN HITS

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ONE INGREDIENT

PAN DE JAMÓN

Pan de Jamón is an essential element of every Venezuelan table during the holidays. This unique dish – not quite a sandwich and not quite a meat pie – combines the sweetness of raisins with the salty brine of green olives and ham rolled up into the warm embrace of homemade bread. The scent of all of these ingredients combined reminds me of standing in lines at panaderías while waiting to buy this bread, my family gathered at the holiday table and my grandmother, who taught me how to feed people. Upon immigrating to the United States, it was one of the first items my mom and I made together in the hopes of gathering family.

STORY AND RECIPE BY GABY WEIR VERA, PRIVATE CHEF / PHOTO BY BEN NICKELSON

YIELDS | 3 LOAVES BREAD DOUGH 8 2½3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 3 large eggs 2 cups milk, warmed 1 cup sugar ½ ½oZ oZ instant yeast 1 tsp kosher salt 3 sticks salted butter 1 egg, beaten 1 Tbsp sugar FILLING ½ pound ham, thinly sliced 1 pound smoked bacon, thinly cut 2 cups raisins ½ cup pimento-stuffed green olives, thinly sliced

/ preparation / In a small bowl, combine the warm milk, 2 tablespoons of the sugar and the yeast; mix well, and set aside until bubbly.

Meanwhile, whisk together 1½ sticks of butter, the rest of the sugar and the salt until well-combined. Continue whisking, and add the 3 eggs one by one, followed by the milk and yeast mixture. Mix until thoroughly combined.

In a separate bowl, combine the flour and the salt; add to the wet components a little bit at a time until the dough is formed. Let the dough rest in a clean bowl for about 5 minutes. Sprinkle additional flour on a clean surface and knead the dough until smooth. Cut the dough into 3 pieces. Roll each piece of dough into a rectangle, about ¼-inch thick.

Working one at a time, spread 2 tablespoons of the remaining butter in a thin layer over the top of each of the rectangles, and fold the dough into thirds, in the shape of a letter. Then, take the letter-shaped dough and fold in half, making a square. Cover each of the dough squares, and let them rest in the refrigerator for 4 hours. Repeat the process of rolling, buttering, folding and refrigerating for 4 hours one more time.

Lightly flour a clean work surface, and roll one of the dough pieces into a thin 15-by-20-inch rectangle. Begin to fill the dough by placing the ham in a single layer across the surface. Follow by placing bacon strips and a light sprinkle of raisins and olives. Working with one dough piece at a time, gently roll the dough, tucking in the fillings as you go to make sure it is tight.

When fully rolled, place the whole roll seam-side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Cover loaves with a clean dish towel, and let rise for 45 minutes. Heat oven to 350°F, and bake for 40 minutes. Mix the beaten egg and the tablespoon of sugar. Pull the loaves out of the oven, and brush the egg wash all over the surface. Bake for another 5 minutes or a bit longer until the loaves are golden brown. Remove from the oven, and rest for 30 minutes before slicing and serving. nov e mbe r 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

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ONE ON ONE

ONE on

Ray and Leah Yeh / cO-ownerS, The Foundry Bakery

3

Must-Try Baked Goods From The Foundry Bakery

Egg TarT This customer favorite is inspired by pastéis da nata, or Portuguese custard tarts, and features more than 100 wonderfully crispy layers of buttery laminated dough filled with creamy egg custard.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

At The Foundry Bakery in Maryland Heights, Missouri, husband-and-wife duo Ray and Leah Yeh have prepared their own take on Taiwanese-centric breads, buns and pastries, alongside a colorful array of beverages and desserts, since setting up shop in 2018. Ray Yeh grew up in Taiwan and spent his formative years in Los Angeles before moving to St. Louis to pursue graduate studies in biology and biomedical science at Washington University in St. Louis, where the couple met. Leah Yeh was born in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, and spent her undergraduate years in Singapore before coming to WashU to work on her MBA. With The Foundry Bakery, the Yehs combine their science and business backgrounds with their passion for outstanding food to create an artisan bakeshop unlike any other and offer completely from-scratch traditional Taiwanese baked goods.

What inspired you to open The Foundry Bakery? We both relish the way different flavors and textures of food bring joy to the senses and love sharing that with people. It all began with casual baking for family and friends and seeing both the smiles for the tasty treats but also the grimaces for the many failed items.

My science background instilled in me a love of experimentation and understanding of the science behind baking, which drove me down a road to create, test and retest recipes. We also sought to share all the unique Taiwanese flavors and ingredients that are currently unfamiliar to many people in St. Louis. Leah has worked tirelessly using her business background to ensure smooth operation of the bakery,

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establishing connections, sourcing unique ingredients and managing daily production. It has been quite a journey already, and we enjoy continually being challenged while putting all aspects of our education and skills to the test every day.

How would you describe the flavors in your Taiwanese sweets? In general, Taiwanese food is lower on the sweetness scale, [thereby] allowing flavors to come through. Taiwanese people also love chewy textures so much that they invented boba to pair with all the great teas that are grown in the high mountains of Taiwan. We aim to bring a slice of that to St. Louis by introducing ingredients and flavors that are a part of

Taro globE For this delicate dessert, laminated pastry crust with a hint of coconut is handcrafted in a spiral pattern, enclosing a housemade taro center with chestnuts.

everyday Taiwanese cuisine, such as taro, red and mung beans, as well as longan fruit. Many classic Taiwanese pastries are flaky, like our egg tarts and mooncakes.

What special desserts and drinks do you like to prepare around the holidays? We would definitely recommend our fall spiced pumpkin egg tarts. The custard is made with real pumpkin and pumpkin spice. Also, our hot dirty chai latte that is made with our freshly ground spice blend with two shots of espresso!

The Foundry Bakery, 11424 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights, Missouri, 314-884-1116, thefoundrybakery.com

TaiwanEsE PinEaPPlE gEm The Foundry Bakery’s take on this traditional Taiwanese treat features caramelized pineapple wrapped in crumbly, buttery shortbread.

THE DISH

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QUICK FIX

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H E A LT H Y A P P E T I T E

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MYSTERY SHOPPER

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HOMETOWN HITS

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ONE INGREDIENT

Harissa WRITTEN BY SHANNON WEBER | PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

WHAT IS IT? If you’ve had harissa before, think of rose harissa as a more complex version of the chile paste, with subtle floral notes that play with the heat and break it apart rather than mute it. There’s a darkness to the flavor profile – a depth that intensifies whatever you add it to and keeps things interesting without going overboard.

WHAT DO I DO WITH IT? The floral notes in rose harissa aren’t overt, which keeps the paste just as flexible as a normal chile paste; use it to steer tomato sauces in a new direction, or add it to autumnal pumpkin or sweet potato soups. Add it to a marinade for beef, chicken or pork, or mainline all that flavor and use it as a condiment on bases like avocado toast and eggs.

Rose harissa can be tricky to find, but making it at home requires little effort and just a few special ingredients; find rose petals and rosewater easily at any international or Middle Eastern market, or order them online.

ROSE HARISSA BAKED FETA WITH ORANGE HONEY GLAZE SERVES | 6 TO 8 | I like roasted garlic here for mellowness; if you’re not sure how to do it, the internet will give you very easy answers.

You’ll have plenty of rose harissa left over; seal it in a jar under a layer of oil, and it’ll keep for up to a month.

ROSE HARISSA 6 2

medium dried guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded

1

Tbsp coriander seeds

1

Tbsp cumin seeds

2

tsp fennel seeds

2

Tbsp tomato paste

1½

Tbsp dried rose petals

2

tsp smoked paprika

2

tsp granulated sugar

1

Tbsp rosewater

½

stemmed and seeded Tbsp caraway seeds

Tbsp apple cider vinegar juice of 1 medium lemon (about 2 Tbsp)

medium dried ancho chiles,

1

3

1½

cup olive oil tsp kosher salt

BAKED FETA SHOP LOCA

L

Visit Larder for a & Cupboard ge ginger blood oran that works marmalade for wonderfully this recipe.

1

8-oz chunk feta cheese

1

14.5-oz can San Marzano whole peeled tomatoes

3 1½

Tbsp orange marmalade

/ rose harissa preparation / Add enough water to a medium saucepan to cover chiles, and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from heat, and add chiles; cover and soak for 30 minutes to rehydrate. Drain and roughly chop.

While chiles are soaking, heat caraway, coriander, cumin and fennel in a small skillet, stirring frequently over medium heat until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to spice grinder or grind with a mortar and pestle to a powder.

Add chiles, spices, tomato paste, rose petals, paprika and sugar to a food processor, and pulse to break down. Add vinegar, lemon juice and rosewater, and blend until combined. With the motor running, pour 1/2 cup olive oil in a slow stream to emulsify, adding more as needed until a smooth paste forms.

Remove from bowl, stir in salt and refrigerate until ready to use. / baked feta preparation / Preheat oven to 350˚F; set the feta in the center of an 8-by-8-inch baking dish. Use potato masher to break up tomatoes and their sauce to small chunks; whisk in ¼ cup rose harissa until combined. Pour around feta, and cook for 30 minutes until sauce is bubbling and feta is soft.

Tbsp honey / to serve / Remove from oven; stir marmalade and honey together in small saucepan over

assorted flatbreads or crostini (for serving)

medium heat until hot; pour over feta chunk and around sauce. Serve hot with flatbreads or crostini.

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THE DISH

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QUICK FIX

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H E A LT H Y A P P E T I T E

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MYSTERY SHOPPER

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HOMETOWN HITS

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ONE INGREDIENT

Hanukkah Must-Haves WRITTEN BY ALECIA HUMPHREYS | PHOTOS BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

Kohn’s Kosher Meat Kohn’s Kosher Meat prides itself on being the only strictly kosher store in St. Louis. For Hanukkah, the store’s potato pancakes and sufganiyot (jelly doughnuts) are a must-try. “We make zillions over a short period of time,” says Lenny Kohn of Kohn’s Kosher Meat & Deli. “We make raspberry-filled and custard-filled [doughnuts], and we top them with either powdered sugar or white fondant or chocolate.” In terms of traditional entrées, Kohn says the store’s most popular items are the roast beef and house-smoked brisket.

10405 Old Olive Street Road, Creve Coeur, Missouri, 314-569-0727

Protzel’s Deli There’s no doubt that the traditional corned beef keeps customers coming to Protzel’s Deli in Clayton. However, beyond this beloved dish, Protzel’s also serves up other classics, such as latkes, roasted brisket, matzo ball soup and rugelach. “They are traditional and our own family recipes,” says Max Protzel, co-owner of Protzel’s Deli. “Many customers crave our homemade kishka – not a traditional Hanukkah food, but a Jewish staple – particularly with roasted brisket or chicken. Also, some enjoy a traditional Jewish breakfast of our fresh, hand-sliced Nova Scotia salmon with bagels and all of the trimmings.”

7608 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, Missouri, 314-721-4445

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RESTAURANTS

R E S TA U R A N T S R E V I E W E D

REVIEWED

From St. Louis Post-Dispatch Restaurant Critic Ian Froeb

PHOTO BY HILLARY LEVIN, ST. LOUIS POST-DISPATCH

PHOTO BY HILLARY LEVIN, ST. LOUIS POST-DISPATCH

PHOTO BY JORDAN OP, ST. LOUIS POST-DISPATCH

Santa Fe Bistro

Tacos El Manny

Cleaver & Cocktail

Santa Fe Bistro is a new restaurant from the owner of Oceano Bistro, Amer Abouwardah. The name and some of the menu items suggest a focus on the cuisine of New Mexico and the broader Southwest, but Santa Fe Bistro’s menu is stunningly all over the map.

The menu of tacos, tortas and small quesadillas nods to owner Carlos Rodriguez’s hometown of Guadalajara and the Mexican state of Jalisco more broadly. Try the weekend special, torta ahogada, or the birria, the Jalisco dish turned inescapable sensation.

Cleaver & Cocktail doesn’t call itself a steakhouse, and this three-month-old restaurant certainly doesn’t resemble the usual stuffy clubhouse of sleek leather and framed Wine Advocate awards. It looks instead like a modern ski chalet plunked down in Town and Country, but make no mistake, the beef is the star.

Where Santa Fe Bistro, 12316 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, Missouri More info 314-628-1001; santafebistromo.com Menu Southwestern • Hours Dinner daily, lunch Monday through Friday, brunch Saturday and Sunday

Where Tacos El Manny, 2800 Nameoki Road, Granite City, Illinois More info 618-219-2858; facebook.com/TacosElManny Menu Tacos, tortas and quesadillas • Hours Lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday (closed Monday)

Fabulous Holidays at

READ MORE

November 26

READ MORE

Where Cleaver & Cocktail, 13360 Clayton Road, Town and Country, Missouri • More info 314-530-9700; cleaverandcocktail.com • Menu Dry-aged steaks with seafood and other contemporary American fare • Hours Dinner Tuesday through Saturday (closed Sunday and Monday)

READ MORE

December 14

A Prairie Home Companion Christmas Show with

December 6

Garrison Keillor December 15

TM & © New Line Productions, Inc. All rights reserved. Illustration by Hugh Syme. Photo by Amy Boyle.

December 8

December 20-24

December 9

December 16-17

December 11

December 18

MetroTix.com • 314-534-1111

nov e mbe r 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

17

PROMOTION

HAVE THE BEST

EASY AS PIE Make dessert time a piece of cake by including a traditional Tippin’s pumpkin, pecan or apple pie — save your energy for dolloping whipped cream!

Pick up fresh-baked brownies, bars, cookies and cupcakes for the kids and insatiable sweet tooths.

(and easiest)

THANKSGIVING EVER

HEAT ’N’ EAT NIBBLES & NOSH Dierbergs makes bites a breeze with packaged, ready-to-bake gold foil containers of popular items like toasted ravioli, mini meatballs, mini crab cakes and smoked chicken, brie and cherry jam bites.

From novice to pro — and every level in between — Dierbergs will leave you hungry for more

If there is one lesson learned from years of Thanksgiving entertaining, it’s this: Accept help. There are no trophies for hosts who make everything from scratch — only stress, sweat and perhaps some tears.

Make this Thanksgiving enjoyable for your guests and you (it’s your holiday too!) by accepting help from your local Dierbergs. They can provide the sides, the dessert or, better yet, the entire meal so you can concentrate on setting a festive table and enjoying your guests before and during the feast. What will you do with all those extra hours?

Here are a few helpful tips to make this year the best holiday ever.

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AN EFFORTLESS GOBBLER The proud centerpiece of Thanksgiving is a golden roasted bird. Free yourself from the fuss and avoid the truss by ordering Dierbergs’ Deluxe Whole Roasted Turkey Meal with homestyle turkey gravy and choice of three sides.

Also consider Dierbergs’ Roasted Turkey Breast Meal.

PROMOTION PROMO

SET A GOURD-EOUS TABLE

S P O N SO R E D CO N T E N T B Y L AU RA S T RO M , B RA N D AV E . S T U D I OS CO N T R I B U T I N G W R I T E R P H O T O P RO V I D E D B Y D I E R B E RGS

Set a festive fall table the day before and enjoy a leisurely morning watching the Thanksgiving parade with those you love.

Dierbergs Flowers & Gifts can help with flowers, greenery, centerpieces, votives and other décor.

TRIM TIME ON TRIMMINGS Truth be told, making the trimmings is more work than the turkey! Let Dierbergs make the fluffy homestyle mashed potatoes, honey-glazed petite carrots and classic green bean casserole. Don’t forget dinner rolls served with honey maple butter — yum!

Freshen your spread with Dierbergs’ craisin walnut spring salad.

DIERBERGS TO THE RESCUE Thanksgiving can be either a headache or a heart-warming day of gratitude. With the help of Dierbergs, you can rest assured your holiday will be tasty, convenient and chock full of time to enjoy those you love and adore.

For more selection, visit dierbergs.com. feastmagazine.com / nov e mbe r 2 02 2

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THE DISH

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QUICK FIX

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ONE INGREDIENT

ONE INGREDIENT, 3 WAYS

n e e r G ns a e B WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO

PHOTO BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

Green beans are a staple on most holiday tables, but this classic rarely receives as much love and attention as mashed potatoes, stuffing or roasted meats. This humble vegetable, with its clean flavor and snappy texture, is a blank canvas waiting to be painted with herbs, spices, fat and acid. We talked to several local chefs to get their help on turning this overlooked veggie into one of the stars of your holiday menu.

one

two

GET BACON INVOLVED

MAKE IT FROM SCRATCH

Chris Schafer, co-owner of Heavy Smoke BBQ, is an award-winning pitmaster, so perhaps it’s no surprise that his advice when it comes to green beans involves meat. “What I always do is cook a little bit of bacon and set that aside, and then in a little bit of bacon grease, throw onions and kind of let them caramelize, and then I’ll put the green beans in with salt, pepper, garlic,” Schafer says. He sautés everything in the bacon fat and serves them with sprinkles of the cooked bacon on top. He cautions to be sure to get high-quality, fresh green beans. “I want my green beans to have a snap, too, so I like the fresh, long-cut,” he says.

Whether you love or hate the classic green bean casserole, there’s a way to elevate it this holiday season. Rick Lewis, chef-owner of Grace Meat + Three, says the key is making it from scratch, rather than relying on canned goods. “Make a nice onion soup or mushroom soup and kind of braise [the green beans] down and top them with some crispy fried shallots,” he recommends. Lewis says it’s a misconception that you have to blanch or steam green beans before throwing them in a casserole. “Don’t overcook them – make sure they stay a little snappy,” he says. MJ Stewart, part of the pastry team at Bowood by Niche, loves the idea of turning this classic dish into an elevated, savory baked good. “Take your more traditional green bean casserole, and translate that into a galette filling,” she says. The crispy, flaky pastry crust will add a welcome crunch to the creamy green beans.

Heavy Smoke BBQ, 4270 N. Service Road, St. Peters, Missouri, 636-244-5874, heavysmokebbq.com

Grace Meat + Three, 4270 Manchester Ave., The Grove, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-533-2700, stlgrace.com Bowood by Niche, 4605 Olive St., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-454-6868, bowoodbyniche.com

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three

DISH BY WINSLOW'S TABLE

BE CREATIVE

For Scottie Corrigan, executive chef at Commonwealth, holiday cooking is an opportunity to create new traditions. When it comes to cooking green beans, he focuses on developing depth of flavor.

“I think brown butter goes such a long way; it has the nutty flavor and aroma, that rich deep buttery flavor,” he says. Another favorite preparation is to confit green beans in duck fat, low and slow, for about 30 minutes. Brandon Panosh, head chef at Winslow’s Table, echoes the call to be inventive when it comes to holiday meals.

He makes a Mediterranean-inspired green bean dish, with pickled peppers, toasted pine nuts, feta and a tahini vinaigrette. “It’s super refreshing, nutty and very healthy,” he says.

Commonwealth, 634 N. Grand Blvd., Grand Center, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-405-3399, commonwealthstl.com Winslow’s Table, 7213 Delmar Blvd., Delmar Loop, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-725-7559, winslowstable.com

SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 20 THE GRAND HALL ON CHOUTEAU

Come visit us for some of the best burgers, beer, and atmosphere in town!

Jack Nolen’s 2501 S. 9th St. in Soulard!

PURCHASE YOUR TICKETS TODAY AT STLtoday.com/ourevents

Sunday: 11:00am–5:00pm Monday: Closed Tuesday – Saturday: 11:00am – 10:00pm

feastmagazine.com / nov e mbe r 2 02 2

21

FOOD for the

Soul

HOLIDAY SOUL FO O D R EPRESEN T S B OT H A C ELEB RATI ON O F FA MI LY A N D T HE H I STO RY T HAT BRO UG HT THESE RECI PES TO L I FE. WRITTEN BY CHARLOTTE RENNER | PHOTOS BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

Passing down family holiday recipes is important in any culture, but soul food recipes can hold an even deeper meaning for Black families.

“Originally, soul food [was] usually prepared and eaten by African Americans, usually originating in the Southern states,” Trezel Brown, owner of CC’s Vegan Spot, says. “To me, soul food is all about flavor; it’s about preparing foods that would awaken your taste buds.”

Soul food holiday recipes include a myriad of dishes, from fried chicken to cornbread dressing to collard greens. For Creole with a Splash of Soul owner Ronda Walker, however, chitterlings (aka chitlins) are a quintessential – though labor-intensive – holiday dish.

“It’s pig intestines; it’s so good with hot sauce and mustard and onions – my mouth is watering talking about it,” Walker says. “You fight over chitlins because you don’t make a lot. One 10-pound bucket is like a little ball, and it takes hours to clean. To cook 50 pounds may take you a week.”

Brown won’t be having any chitlins at her holiday table, however. Since turning to a vegan diet due to her and her family’s allergies, she’s had to find creative ways to transform traditional soul food recipes into vegan dishes

while still maintaining their signature flavor.

“When I became vegan, it was important to me to master what I like to eat,” Brown says. “I didn’t want to go without. People think because you’re vegan or you’re plant-based, you have to just eat salads all day long. I wanted to dispel that myth.”

With this mindset, Brown created vegan soul food holiday dishes to imitate ribs, mac ‘n’ cheese, fried chicken, collard greens and cabbage. She says her family can’t tell that the ribs don’t come from an animal. “My family is extremely proud of the things I’ve done,” Brown says. “They love my cooking.” Now, Brown hosts Thanksgiving dinner out of CC’s Vegan Spot, where she sells more than 100 to-go vegan Thanksgiving meals for the holiday with the help of her family.

The holiday dish Brown can’t live without, though, is dressing. Her dressing recipe actually belongs to Brown’s sister, who comes to the restaurant or calls her on the phone to help her make it. The dressing itself is made with a seasoned cornmeal base and served with mashed potatoes and gravy. “Just those three together – the combinations with the flavor, the taste – you won’t even realize you’re not even having meat,” Brown says.

To me, soul food is all about flavor; it’s about preparing foods that would awaken your taste buds. ‒ TREZEL BROWN OWNER, CC’S VEGAN SPOT

Dishes on this page by Creole with a Splash of Soul

It’s a constant reminder of my ancestors and slavery, and what they had to do to get me to the point where I can actually own a restaurant. ‒ RONDA WALKER OWNER, CREOLE WITH A SPLASH OF SOUL

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Both Brown and Walker agree that they wouldn’t have soul food expertise if it weren’t for their families. Brown grew up in a family of chefs and absorbed their cooking methods and recipes like a sponge. Her father was a fisherman, and watching him fry fish when she was a child inspired Brown’s plant-based “ish” bites at CC’s.

Walker also learned how to cook from her father, who was a cook for the army and in charge of the mess hall. “He’s 83, and he can out-cook me to this day without even trying,” Walker says. Walker’s father learned how to cook from his own father, who worked as a cook and butler for a man in Ladue and his aunt, who ran a restaurant as the lead chef.

2022 ST. LOUIS POST-DISPATCH

As a child, Walker’s holidays consisted of gathering at one of her grandmother’s houses for lots of soul food and family time. With 10 aunts and uncles and lots of cousins, the house was always full, she says.

Walker says everyone slept wherever they could find a spot, whether it be a couch or the floor.

These are the memories called to mind when Walker cooks up soul food holiday dishes, but they aren’t the only ones. “It’s a constant reminder of my ancestors and slavery, and what they had to do to get me to the point where I can actually own a restaurant,” Walker says. “I think about how the foods like chitterlings and pigs feet and pig ears were given to them because they were the scraps.

It was the part that nobody wanted. So they had to take those scraps and turn them into what we now call soul food, and make it very delicious and put spices and seasonings and do things to them to make them edible, basically.”

Walker cooks a medley of soul food dishes for the holidays: yams, oxtails, turkey, dressing, mac ‘n’ cheese, fried chicken and meatloaf. But she also makes these dishes in her restaurant every Sunday.

Growing up, every Sunday, the extended Walker family would gather together to enjoy soul food.

These soul food gatherings are what shape Black youth and culture, according to Walker.

Last year, it was a photo at Alabama Hills National Scenic Area in California that grabbed our attention as we judged our annual travel photo contest. This year, your photo could be the winner!

Winning photos will be published in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch and online on STLtoday!

“In the African American culture, with soul food Sundays and holidays, that’s pretty much what kept the youth grounded,” Walker says. “Soul food didn’t just represent our holidays or food, it was also a sense of how you conduct yourself as a child. There were certain things that you didn’t do – a certain amount of respect and love and loyalty. That’s key.

That’s the center of soul food.”

CC’s Vegan Spot, 4993 Loughborough Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 314-899-9400, ccsveganspot.com

Enter your photo through Nov. 27: STLtoday.com/contests

Creole with a Splash of Soul, 4353 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 314-349-2385, creolemeetsoul.com

Dishes on this page by CC's Vegan Spot nov e mbe r 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

25

How to

in W WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO

the HOLIDAYS

PHOTO COURTESY OF BUTLER'S PANTRY

Butler’s Pantry

Simplify your holiday season with to-go meals from these St. Louis restaurants.

St. Louis caterer Butler’s Pantry has been around since 1966, so the team knows its way around a holiday spread. The creative sides are the true standouts here. Choose from spaghetti

If you want a delicious holiday meal without the effort, turn to one of these local spots. Customers can preorder and customize their Thanksgiving, Christmas or other holiday spreads, from turkeys to sides to rolls to pies. Enjoy a delicious and stress-free holiday gathering with help from professional chefs and bakers.

squash arrabbiata, maple pecan roasted yams, green bean mushroom casserole and a bruschetta trio. The whole roasted turkey with cranberry sauce is sure to impress your guests.

Finish off on the sweet side with a pumpkin cheesecake made with Biscoff cookie crust.

Yolklore If your family has a sweet tooth but not a flair for baking, head to Yolklore for whole pies and

Butler’s Pantry, 1414 Park Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 314-664-7680, butlerspantry.com

desserts. Around Thanksgiving, the spot offers seasonal favorites like caramel French apple pie and pumpkin pie with cinnamon crème, as well as classics like gooey butter cake and turtle cheesecake. Set yourself up for success on Christmas morning by preordering Yolklore’s take-and-bake sticky buns.

Yolklore, 8958 Watson Road, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-270-8538, yolklore.com

KNEAD Bakehouse + Provisions

PHOTO COURTESY OF YOLKLORE

Winslow’s Table Compose your perfect holiday meal with mix-and-match dishes including roasted local turkey, whipped potatoes, mushroom and kale stuffing, roasted carrot salad, cranberry chutney, dinner rolls and more. Head chef Brandon Panosh says, “The stuffing has

This holiday season, KNEAD is offering its signature sourdough-based desserts in fall flavors. Try

mushrooms, and it gives it a meatiness that

a sourdough doughnut filled with cranberry citrus jelly or the apple pie sourdough toaster pastry.

everybody and vegetarians can enjoy.” Its

“We fill our sourdough pastry with classic apple pie filling,” AJ Brown, chef and co-owner of KNEAD,

bakery offers scratch-made pies, cinnamon

says. “We make the filling by cooking local Doublestar apples in their own juices with fall spices

rolls and pastries. Keep an eye on its website

and housemade vanilla.” This spot has more than just sweets to offer, however. You can also

to learn when preorders open.

preorder butternut bisque, maple roasted squash salad and an autumn Brussels sprouts salad.

Winslow’s Table, 7213 Delmar Blvd.,

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KNEAD Bakehouse + Provisions, 3467 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, Missouri,

University City, Missouri,

314-376-4361, kneadbakehouse.com

314-725-7559, winslowstable.com

SqWires SqWires has two different holiday options.

Order dishes, mains and desserts à la carte, or order complete plated dinners for up to six people. In addition to a whole turkey, enjoy braised collards, sweet potato Gruyere bake and green beans and wild mushrooms. For dessert, choose from pumpkin pie, apple pie or pumpkin bread pudding.

SqWires, 1415 S. 18th St., St. Louis, Missouri, 314-865-3522, sqwires.com

Russell’s With locations in Fenton and the Macklind business district, Russell’s is ready to satisfy your family’s sweet tooth. You’ll have your choice of traditional or creative baked goods. Options include pumpkin pie, orange zest buttercream cake, Christmas tree sugar cookies and chocolate cream pie. And don’t skip the gooey butter cake; Russell’s has more than a dozen flavors.

Russell’s, multiple locations, 314-553-9994, russellscafe.com

Grace Meat + Three Grace Meat + Three sells out of its preorder holiday meals quickly, so be sure to get your orders in early. The restaurant offers ham, turkey and prime rib for mains, plus classic sides. One of its most popular offerings is its dressing. Chef-owner Rick Lewis says, “It’s an herbaceous bread dressing with some homemade sausage [and] box-grated mirepoix; it’s really pretty savory. We use a lot of smoked turkey stock.” Another bestselling side is the bourbon and molasses sweet potatoes with streusel topping.

Grace Meat + Three, 4270 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 314-533-2700, stlgrace.com

­

*One free kids meal, per adult meal purchased. Dine-in only.

For kids under 12 years old.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF GRACE MEAT + THREE

nov e mbe r 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

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Do Leftovers Right WRITTEN BY AMBER FISHER | PHOTOS BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

Thanksgiving is over, and the kitchen is finally (almost) clean. As you stare blankly into the refrigerator, chock-full of the fruits of your labor, leftover fatigue starts to creep in. These five recipes will transform your old leftovers to refreshingly delicious dishes that will get you in and out of the kitchen and back on the couch in no time.

our Turn Y R VE LEFTO ING F STUF Into...

Crab Cakes With Tartar Sauce I think we can all agree that stuffing is the crown jewel of Thanksgiving.

If you end up with a cup to spare, you may want to consider this no-fuss, throw-it-together crab cake and tartar sauce recipe.

SERVES | 6 | CRAB CAKES 1/2 lb precooked crab meat 1 cup leftover stuffing 1 large egg, lightly beaten 2½ Tbsp mayonnaise 1 Tbsp parsley, finely chopped 2 tsp Dijon mustard 2 tsp Worcestershire sauce ¾ tsp Old Bay seasoning ¼ tsp kosher salt ¹⁄₈ tsp black pepper olive oil (for cooking)

TARTAR SAUCE ¾ cup mayonnaise ¼ cup sweet pickle relish 1 Tbsp capers, finely chopped 2 tsp lemon juice 1 Tbsp red onion, minced 2 dashes of hot sauce ½ tsp dried dill salt, to taste

lemon wedges (for serving) / preparation / In a small bowl, combine the ingredients for the tartar sauce; add salt to taste. Place in the refrigerator until ready to serve. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, mayonnaise, parsley, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, Old Bay seasoning, salt and pepper. With a rubber spatula, carefully fold in crab meat and stuffing until just combined. Cover tightly and refrigerate for at least one hour to let the mixture set. In a large, nonstick pan, heat 1 to 2 tablespoons of olive oil until it shimmers. Using a ½-cup measuring cup, scoop crab mixture and gently drop into the hot pan; lightly press down to flatten with a rubber spatula. Cook each side for three to five minutes or until golden brown and cooked through. Transfer to a serving platter, and serve immediately with tartar sauce and lemon wedges.

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SERVES | 4 | 3 2 2 3 3 2 1 4

cups chicken or vegetable broth cups leftover mashed potatoes large leeks, white and light green parts only, roughly chopped cloves garlic, crushed Tbsp unsalted butter sprigs thyme bay leaf ounces pancetta olive oil (for cooking) chives (for garnish) cheddar cheese (for garnish) heavy cream (optional)

/ preparation / Heat about ½ teaspoon of oil in a sauté pan over medium to medium-low heat. Add pancetta, slowly rendering out some of the fat, about 5 minutes. Crank up the heat to medium-high, and sauté until crispy; set aside to drain on a plate with a paper towel. Melt butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add leeks and garlic. Sweat until tender and soft, stirring and adjusting heat as necessary to avoid browning. Add the broth, thyme and bay leaf; turn down low, and simmer with a lid on for 10 minutes. Fish out the bay leaf and thyme sprigs, and then pour leek mixture into a blender with the mashed potatoes; blend until smooth. Return soup to the pot, and bring to a simmer; stir in heavy cream. If the soup is too thick, add a little stock to thin it out. If it’s too thin, gently simmer until thickened. Salt to taste. Garnish with crispy pancetta, chives and cheddar cheese.

S

EA

This soup is the perfect way to revive old mashed potatoes, and the crispy pancetta topping takes it to the next level.

The goal is to render some of the pancetta fat on medium-low heat to achieve that perfect crunch.

OF

Mashed Potato and Leek Soup With Crispy Pancetta

GO T

our Turn Y R VE LEFTO ES O T A T PO Into...

TM

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our Turn Y R VE LEFTO EY K TUR Into...

Turkey Tinga Quesadillas In this recipe, leftover shredded turkey is simmered in a smoky chipotle sauce, piled onto a flour tortilla with Oaxacan cheese and pan-fried to perfection. If you cannot find Oaxacan cheese in your supermarket, try substituting with a whole-milk, low-moisture mozzarella instead.

SERVES | 6 | 3 4 ¾ ½ ¼ 3 1 1 ¾ ¾ 4 6

cups leftover turkey, shredded chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, finely chopped cup canned crushed tomatoes red onion, thinly sliced cup leftover turkey stock cloves garlic, minced Tbsp olive oil tsp oregano tsp kosher salt tsp cumin cups Oaxacan cheese, shredded 10-inch flour tortillas cilantro, chopped (for garnish) sour cream (for serving)

/ preparation / Heat oil in a large pan over medium-high heat. Add onions, and cook until translucent. Stir in garlic and cumin, and cook until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add chipotle peppers, turkey stock, tomatoes, oregano, salt and cumin; stir and bring to a simmer. Stir in turkey, and cook until most of the turkey stock has evaporated, about 7 minutes. Remove the pan from heat, and set aside. Heat a nonstick or cast-iron pan over medium-high heat, and brush lightly with cooking oil. Lay a tortilla on the pan, and spread a few heaping spoonfuls of turkey tinga followed by a handful of cheese on one half of the tortilla. Fold the tortilla and cook until golden brown and the cheese has melted, about 4 to 5 minutes each side. Repeat with the remaining tortillas.

Garnish with cilantro, and serve warm with sour cream.

Spaghetti With Brussels Sprout Pangrattato

FO

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Pangrattato, which means “breadcrumbs,” is an Italian condiment made from stale bread (think leftover dinner rolls), butter or oil, garlic and herbs.

Leftover Brussels sprouts are used here to add a nutty, slightly bitter complementary flavor. Want to take it up a notch? Serve with a poached egg on top!

S

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Turn LEFTOYour ROLL VER SPRO S & UT Into... S

RE

CIP E!

TURN YOUR LEFTOVER CRANBERRY SAUCE INTO …

Marbled Cranberry & Goat Cheese Truffles In this recipe, cranberry sauce is swirled into a creamy blend of goat cheese and mascarpone before being cooled, scooped and coated with chopped toasted pecans, herbs de Provence and orange zest. These decadent truffles are perfect over a simple arugula salad or with fancy crackers.

SERVES | 2 - 3 | 8 1 ½ ¹⁄₃ 6 4 1 2 2 ¼

oz spaghetti cup leftover Brussels sprouts, thinly sliced cup freshly stale breadcrumbs cup olive oil, more as needed small anchovies, chopped cloves garlic, crushed Tbsp capers Tbsp butter Tbsp Italian parsley, chopped tsp crushed red chile flakes zest and juice of one lemon pecorino, grated (for serving) black pepper (for serving)

/ preparation / Heat oil in a large pan over medium-high heat. Once shimmering, add anchovies and capers. Fry until the capers begin to split and the anchovies are mostly dissolved, about 2 minutes. Add garlic and red pepper flakes; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in Brussels sprouts and breadcrumbs; sauté until the breadcrumbs are golden brown, about 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and set aside. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add spaghetti, and cook according to package directions; drain well, and reserve ½ cup pasta water. In a mixing bowl, toss in hot pasta, pasta water, butter, parsley, lemon juice and zest and the Brussels sprout pangrattato; toss to combine. Serve immediately with a generous sprinkle of grated pecorino and freshly cracked black pepper. nov e mbe r 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

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ST. LOUIS STORY AND PHOTOS BY THEO R. WELLING

MAMA CAT, AN ICON OF THE ST. LOUIS ACTIVISM AND FOOD SCENES, KEEPS THE HOLIDAY SPIRIT ALIVE IN BOTH GOOD TIMES AND BAD.

CATHY DANIELS – BETTER KNOWN AS “MAMA CAT” – BEGAN THE NONPROFIT POTBANGERZ IN 2014 TO PROVIDE HOMECOOKED MEALS TO THOSE IN NEED. When she was a little girl growing up in New York City, Daniels learned firsthand about the joy of cooking and community from her parents.

“I was 3 when I moved from Harlem to a Bronx tenement,” Daniels says. “Go in the backyard, I ain’t bragging, but my mom and dad threw down. The ribs were the best.”

Flash forward nearly six decades. In June 2020 – in the backyard of her former home in Florissant with her two elderly but energetic dogs, Curly and Rocky – Daniels recounted how she started PotBangerz, a group of volunteers who make meals for the unhoused. The group received worldwide attention in the summer of 2014 when Mama Cat spent each night feeding the throngs of people who gathered in Ferguson to protest the killing of Michael Brown.

“It was surreal at first, and then it got normalized,” she says. “I remember when I first went out there. I had some snacks and some water.”

One night, Daniels met Dontey Demeko Carter, one of the founding members of the Lost Voices. The group’s Twitter bio reads, “Youth raising their voice and action to get justice for #MikeBrown and all those slain by police brutality.” She asked Carter if there was anything she could do to help during the protests, and he replied, “A little homecooked meal won’t hurt nobody.”

The next day, Daniels returned to the protests with homecooked spaghetti, garlic bread and salad. nov e mbe r 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

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“I could have just handed them the food and walked off, but I sat down, and I broke bread with these kids,” she says. “I learned about them, and I learned what their passions were and why it was so important that they were out there, you know, and I heard them, and I felt that. I know why I went out there – because I have sons and grandsons and have girls, too. I mean, that could have been any one of them, God forbid.”

From that point on, Daniels returned to the protests every evening with her grandson to provide nourishment to her community members. The movement gained enough momentum to eventually expand into serving another vital purpose – helping St. Louis’ unhoused community by providing weekly meals for 150 to 200 people.

PotBangerz has also catered several post-funeral receptions for families grieving after the death of a loved one. Since PotBangerz’s inception, the organization’s mission has only gained momentum and evolved in ways that have expanded its reach across the St. Louis area, even though Daniels now lives in Jacksonville, Florida.

In September 2021, for instance, Daniels addressed the Pine Lawn City Council with the goal of winning its approval for a women’s transitional house, Mildred’s Casa De Paz or Mildred’s House of Peace, named after a close friend who donated the house for all women in need.

“I don’t want to just give you food; I don’t want to just give you a blanket,” she told the council members. “I want to get you to your tomorrow.”

Currently, the house is undergoing some structural updates from a grant and will be opened fully in the future as more funds become available.

Above all, Daniels is known as a fighter, advocate and voice for her community. Dr. Deborah Krause, president of Eden Seminary, met Daniels in Ferguson in 2014 and awarded her a Doctorate of Humane Letters.

Food offers comfort.

And when you break bread, you break down walls between people.

- CATHY DANIELS

“I think she models that sense of responsibility that we can – with or without huge amounts of money – pool our resources, and we can do wonderful things,” Krause says. “I think she inspires people to be better people and to take better care of the village.”

Much of Daniels’ work happens behind the scenes, where she fosters relationships among individuals in the St. Louis area, connects people in need and elevates voices to directly affect change.

“When resources are needed, she’s spoken truth to power; when there weren’t particular operations, she’s helped to coordinate to bring those to be,” says St. Louis director of human services Yusef Scoggin.

“She’s been out there and actually transporting people. So it’s really a function of fighting for overall system change through awareness, etc.

But it’s also actually boots on the ground as needed to fill in the gap where necessary.”

As an individual who has experienced homelessness, Daniels says she has great empathy for people in need and understands that anyone, at any time, can find themselves unhoused or unable to get a meal for themselves or their children. That understanding is the driving force behind her efforts to continually feed, house and help people in need in the St. Louis community.

“Food offers comfort,” Daniels says. “And when you break bread, you break down walls between people.”

Visit potbangerz.org to learn more.

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Together again for the Holidays

The holidays are for gathering together and enjoying traditions like St. James Winery Cranberry Sweet Wine. Bring home a bottle of this festive, sweet and tart wine to share on the table with those you love.