December 2016 Feast Magazine

Page 1

7 n e w y e a r ’s r e c i p e s

cups of good cheer

m e e t t h e ta m a l e w o m e n




Inspired Local Food Culture | M i dw e st

Celebrate the season with 8 recipes including this gingerbread mandelbrot on p. 67. |

december 2016

M I T M U S S ’ E E L WN O T N W O D ic r o t s i h


s rvice e S o t Vide i m m Su frey • d o G y Chad Photo b

Outside DEC



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Inspired Local Food Culture

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Wiine ne,, Sp irit s and Be ne B er Tas T tings eve

chases 10%% everydday ciigar discount on ful l-box pur

Largest se lectition off bbeers undder

C on su mer ed ucat ion cla ss es Clarkson Square 1781 Clarkson Rd Chesterfield, MO 63017

ry wee ken d.

The Promenade at Brentwood 90 Brentwood Promenade Ct Brentwood, MO 63144

one roof

Manchester Meadows 13887 Manchester Road Ballwin, MO 63011

8,000 WINES • 3,000 SPIRITS • 2,500 BEERS

Inspired Local Food Culture

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Savor authentic Italian fare just like “nonna” used to make. From classic favorites like wood-fired Margherita pizza and house-made pasta, to seasonal desserts like slow-churned gelato, Cibare is a little taste of Italy right in St. Louis.

888.578.7289 | Must be age 21 or older to gamble. Gambling problem? Call 1-888-BETSOFF. ©2016 Pinnacle Entertainment, Inc. All Rights Reserved. 8

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december 2016 67 78 85 92

happy challah days

Eight recipes that celebrate one family’s interfaith holiday traditions, from peppermint rugelach and gingerbread mandelbrot to a latke bar with creative and festive toppings

fRoM ThE STAff

| 10 |

Let’s celebrate

| 14 |


What’s online this month

| 16 |


A look at the craft spirits episode

good luck

Seven foods from around the world to help ring in a very happy and prosperous new year



| 22 |

on TREnd

Éclairs with flair

the tamale women

A Christmas tradition in Mexico, tamales are becoming a year-round favorite in Kansas City thanks to the women behind The Tamale Kitchen

| 24 |

whERE wE’RE dInIng

The Antler Room, Stage Left Diner, Zayka

| 26 |


Tulsa, Oklahoma

cups of good cheer

Six warm cocktails that carry on the Rockwellian holiday tradition of boozy drinks made on the stove and served by the fire holiday season.

| 28 |


Sweet potatoes


| 34 |

on TREnd

Cocktail-inspired coffee

| 36 |

whERE wE’RE dRInKIng

2nd Shift Brewing, Ugly Mugg, Goat Hill Coffee & Soda

| 38 |


An affogato with spirit


| 44 |


A festive rolling pin and a gingerbread house-Bundt pan

| 46 |

onE on onE

Mollie Anderson of Twinkle Brews

| 48 |


Bittersweet Artisan Truffles and Dēz Nüts


| 54 |


Potato crostini bites with beets and fennel

| 56 |



| 60 |


Cherries jubilee Pavlova

| 62 |



Volume 7

| Issue 12 | December 2016

Vice President of niche Publishing, Publisher of feast Magazine

Catherine Neville,


director of sales

Angie Henshaw,, 314.475.1298 account Manager

Jennifer Tilman,, 314.475.1205 sPecial Projects editor

Bethany Christo,, 314.475.1244

eDITORIal senior editor

Liz Miller, Managing editor

Nancy Stiles, digital editor

Heather Riske, Kansas city contributing editor

Jenny Vergara st. louis contributing editor

Mabel Suen

Feast was honored with a number of awards this year, including (left to right) two Emmys, the Navigator Media Award and a Folio: Eddie. Publisher Catherine Neville was on hand to accept the awards on Feast’s behalf.

fact checKer

Amanda Woytus Proofreader

Christine Wilmes contributing Writers

Christy Augustin, Ettie Berneking, Sherrie Castellano, Gabrielle DeMichele, April Fleming, Mallory Gnaegy, Hilary Hedges, Valeria Turturro Klamm, Sarah Kloepple, Lauren Miers, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, Ana Pierce, Daniel Puma, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Shannon Weber, Amanda Wilens


art director

Alexandrea Povis, Production designer

Jacklyn Meyer, contributing PhotograPhers

Zach Bauman, Justine Bursoni, Sherrie Castellano, Jonathan Gayman, Virginia Harold, William Hess, Natalie Hinds, Mark Neunschwander, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Ana Pierce, Jonathan Pollack, Megan Roussin, Jennifer Silverberg, Christopher Smith, Mabel Suen, Starboard & Port Creative, Cheryl Waller, Amanda Wilens

FeasT TV

producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

COnTaCT Us Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1244,

DIsTRIbUTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Jeff Moore for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at and Jason Green for Kansas City at Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2016 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC


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publisher’s letter I t’s been a banner year for Feast. We’ve recently been honored with a number of awards and hit some milestones, and as 2016 draws to a close, I want to give a shout-out to everyone who makes the magazine possible.

First, I want to say a personal thank you to Tybee Studios and LP Creative Group for their partnership in creating Feast TV, our half-hour television show that airs on PBS stations throughout the region. In October we took home two more Mid-America Emmy Awards – one for our barbecue episode and the other for the episode we dedicated to the bean-to-cup journey of Kaldi’s coffee – and it wouldn’t have been possible without their dedication to great storytelling and willingness to hit the road with me on a near-constant basis. I’m proud to say that Feast was recently awarded the Navigator Media Award by the Missouri Department of Tourism for our work highlighting delicious ways to explore the state. We also were awarded the Media Outlet of the Year by the Kansas City Restaurant Association. And Mallory Gnaegy’s feature covering the history of competitive barbecue in our region, Smoke the Competition, won a Folio: Eddie award.

I was on hand in New York to accept the award on Feast’s behalf and it was a thrill to be honored alongside the country’s top magazine publishers. Dedication to excellence is a hallmark of the team here at Feast, and it’s because Liz, Nancy, Heather, Alex, Jacklyn, Bethany, Angie and Jen give their all each day that the magazine, website, TV show and everything else we produce is held in high regard. But it doesn’t matter how focused we are on making the magazine great if we don’t have an equally great audience, and I have to say that you, our readers, viewers and listeners are the reason we do what we do. It’s an honor to do this work. None of us take it for granted. I’ve been told many times that I must have the best job – and you know what? I have to agree. Until next time,

Catherine Neville

12.16 amanda wilens St. Louis, Blogger & Photographer “The holidays are a really special time of the year, and I was so honored that Feast asked me to share my holiday story. Celebrating both Christmas and Hanukkah really exposed me to the diverse flavor profiles traditional to both celebrations. I loved being able to mix them together in recipes as a way to unite the holiday season. Being creative while also trying to respect the history behind these foods proved challenging at times, but I think in the end the flavors worked well together and you still see a lot of Jewish culture behind them. (Also, finding holiday ingredients in the fall is more difficult than I assumed!) Writing the story was particularly difficult because I’m not a writer and the story is so personal, but I hope it speaks to people and brings a sense of holiday spirit. The styling and shooting of this piece came easiest for me and I was very lucky to have some wonderful natural lighting.” (Happy Challah Days, p. 67)

daniel puma St. Louis, Writer “I’m from Tulsa, Oklahoma, and I loved sharing so many wonderful restaurants and spots in my hometown in this month’s Road Trip. Tulsa has so much personality, and I wanted to share that. Despite my familiarity, the city still caught me off guard; there is always something new and more to learn. Specifically, I discovered the traditional luchador wrestling at Elote, a popular downtown restaurant. I hope you enjoy reading about Tulsa, and more importantly, that you choose to visit soon.” (Road Trip, p. 28)

celebrity chef Tyler Florence

christopher smith Kansas City, Photographer “I felt privileged to get a behind-the-scenes look at tamales being made by the women of The Tamale Kitchen. As a photojournalist, I love to tell the stories behind food. By spending time in the kitchen I got to witness first-hand the careful process and age-old techniques that go into making tamales. Although there were plenty of light-hearted moments of camaraderie, the women were focused and serious about producing the best possible product. The cooks have a machine-like way of working and initially I was a wrench thrown into the works. But as I watched and learned the rhythm of the room I was able to move about without slowing things down too much and take pictures that I believe told the story behind the food.” (The Tamale Women, p. 85)

Introduces a new 10-PIece LIne of Branded cookware

It’s the most durable and easy to use cookware I’ve ever had, and I think they’re stunning.

mallory gnaegy St. Louis, Writer “When I agreed to write about Tom and Jerrys, I didn’t expect it to be so involved. Little did I know I’d head down the rabbit hole, writing about all the comfort and joy associated with my family’s holiday staple. Writing first-person has never been comfortable for me; I prefer observing. It’s easier when you know just enough about your subjects to write about them, but when you spend your whole life knowing your characters it’s a challenge to get it right. I wanted readers to feel the same warmth of Greene Acres that I feel, and like they are there celebrating with us. I hope I did our story justice. “ (Cups of Good Cheer, p. 92)

o Made t f’s e h c the Ions t a Ic sPecIf

11100 W. 58th Street | Shawnee, Kansas 66203 Phone: 913-631-6265 | Toll-free: 1-800-359-3444 Website: Like us on facebook! Inspired Local Food Culture

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scHNucks cooks: cHerries Jubilee Pavlova Wed., Dec. 14, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School; $45; or 314.909.1704

NewYear’s Eve

In this class, you’ll learn how to properly and safely flambé at home to make a cherries jubilee Pavlova. You’ll also learn how to make collard greens, a lucky food historically served on New Year’s Day in the American South, as well as Southern-inspired hush puppies, creamy cheese grits and Creole-spiced shrimp salad.



New Year’s eve at Four seasoNs Hotel st. louis Sat., Dec. 31, 3pm to 12am; prices vary; Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis, 999 N. Second St., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.881.5759;


Ring in the new year with a fabulous evening of great food and live music at Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis. Enjoy an oyster shuck and Champagne bar, fortune-telling, a seven-course dinner menu, DJ and dancing. Call for reservations.

December31,2016 | TwoSeatings!5:30pm&9pm

FiveCourseDinnerfeaturingsustainable localfoodsandpasture-raisedmeats fromFoundationsFarmspairedwith garden-freshcraftcocktailsfromourmaster mixologist. 1-ButternutSquashSoupwithPinkBubbles 2-FoundationsFarmsVenisonCrostiniwithBlackThai 3-FoundationsFarmsMicroGreenSaladwithTheEmperor’sNewClothes 4-FoundationsFarmsRabbitStifadowithBittersweetSymphony 5-BlackLicoriceNitroIceCreamwithAbsintheFrappe STL

ForTickets&MoreInfo: (314) 535-9700 | 4198 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, MO |   12

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Farm to table New Year’s eve at saNctuaria Sat., Dec. 31, 5:30 and 9pm seatings; Sanctuaria, 4198 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, Missouri; 314.535.9700;

Sanctuaria presents a five-course dinner featuring sustainable local foods and pasture-raised meats from Foundation Farms, paired with garden-fresh craft cocktails by candlelight. Choose from two seatings, and enjoy courses including rabbit stifado with The Emperor’s New Clothes cocktail or black-licorice nitro ice cream with an absinthe frappe.


party 12.31.16 | 8pm - 1am


big george brock


Big NYE PartY at MooNshiNE BluEs Bar Sat., Dec. 31, 8pm to 1am; $30 to $65; Moonshine Blues Bar, 1200 S. Main St., St. Charles, Missouri; 636.724.8600;

Swing into the new year with Moonshine Blues Bar, featuring live music from blues legend Big George Brock, as well as unlimited drinks and an all-inclusive buffet of smoked wings, pork slidersand handmade meatballs. Ticket includes Champagne toast at midnight. PHOTO BY CHERYL WALLER

ALL INCLUSIVE BUFFET & BAR*, 8-11pm! UNLIMITED DRINKS* WITH BUFFET TICKET! INCLUDES CHAMPAGNE TOAST! BUFFET: Smoked Wings, Pork Sliders, House Salad, Baked Beans & handmade Meatballs


NEw YEar’s EvE PartY at thE MuddlEd Pig gastroPuB Sat., Dec. 31, 8:30pm to 1am; $75; 2733 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, Missouri; 314.781.4607;

The Muddled Pig Gastropub is throwing it back this New Year’s Eve with a ‘50s rockabilly and pinup theme, live entertainment, a costume contest and a tap takeover with Logboat Brewing Co. and 4 Hands Brewing Co. Tickets will be available online starting Fri., Nov. 25, and the price includes all-you-can-eat food, two drink tickets and a Champagne toast at midnight. PHOTO BY JACKLYN MEYER

Buffet & Bar Ticket - $55 Pre-Order, $65 at door* Standing Room - $30 at door* *subject to availability.; unlimited bar includes select domestic beers & flavored moonshines only.

ForTickets&MoreInfo: 636.724.8600 | 1200 South Main Street., St. Charles, MO |   Inspired Local Food Culture

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this month on






the feed

PHOtOGrAPHy By APril flEMinG


Our Ultimate Holiday Gift Giveaway kicks off Mon., Dec. 5! Each day, we’re giving away exclusive packages, including 12 hand-picked, limited-release beers from Craft Beer Cellar in Clayton, Missouri, and a Winter in Wine Country Getaway from Augusta and Montelle wineries. Just head to the Promotions section at for all the details.

also on the feed...

Gerard Craft’s highly anticipated Sardella opened in the former home of Niche last month, serving dishes with a “wink to Italy” – including pastas and shareable small plates like this sardine toast with pickled vegetables.

We explored every neighborhood in St. Louis to uncover the best in local traditions as well as the latest culinary and beverage trends. From dive bars to high-end cocktails, we rounded up our favorite spots to get your drink on in the River City.

KC Brioche Pastry Shop opened in Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District this fall, serving sticky buns, croissants, scones, pain au chocolat and the best-selling cinnamon rolls.

PHOtOGrAPHy By AArOn Ottis



mid-mo One of the most anticipated restaurants of the year, Barred Owl Butcher and Table, is now open in Columbia, Missouri, featuring housemade charcuterie, country pâté, head cheese, sandwiches and more.

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Come and check out our new Fall menu!


American eatery

craft beers

artisan cocktails

motorcycle themed setting


3419 Olive Street | St Louis, MO | 314-446-1801 | Inspired Local Food Culture

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we check in at st. louis’ still 630 where dave weglarz is collaborating with breweries to produce one-of-a-kind spirits from local beers.


craft spirits are the fastest growing segment of the local beverage industry. get inside this exploding industry with visits to pinckney bend, a distillery that is working with heritage varieties of corn, plus missouri spirits, a distillery that has grown exponentially since launching in 2011 and now boasts a bar and restaurant where spirit-lovers can indulge. we’ll also visit montelle winery, where grappa and brandy are distilled, as well as eau de vie made with fruit grown on site. spirits flavor more than cocktails and in the kitchen, host cat neville will whip up a rustic apple galette with an easy-to-make whiskey caramel.

at missouri spirits in springfield, missouri, the cocktails feature housemade shrubs, purées, syrups and sodas.

in host cat neville’s cooking demo, she shows you how easy it is to make a galette and pairs the apple pastry with an equally easy-to-make whiskey caramel.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors: Missouri Wines

Whole Foods Market

l’ école culinaire

Missouri Wines supports the more than 135 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.

Feast TV is proud to feature Whole Foods Market’s 365 Everyday Value line of products. Pick up ingredients at multiple locations in the St. Louis area.

In St. Louis and Kansas City, L’Ecole Culinaire offers high-quality culinary education from basic culinary skills to careers in management.


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the raphael hotel The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.

Farmers House Market locally grown and produced products

food In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Wednesdays at 7pm and Saturdays and Sundays at 6:30pm.



In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19).

4740 Rainbow Boulevard Westwood, Kansas 913.283.8402

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 7pm and Saturdays at 4:30pm.

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8).

Check to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

Inspired Local Food Culture

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9202 Clayton Rd. Saint Louis, MO 63124 e : i n f o @ to dayat t r u f f l e s . co m

TUE - SAT 11 a m -7P m / SUN 11 a m -4P m t: 314.567.7258 f : 314.567.9105 @ b u tc h e rys t l @ t r u f f l e s s t l w w w . to dayat t r u f f l e s . co m 18

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We are open both Christmas Eve & New Years Eve. This Holiday season at Truffles and Butchery, pre-order your dinners, customize gift baskets, or simply join us with your family and loved ones for an unforgettable meal...

9202 Clayton Rd. Saint louiS, Mo 63124 e: info@todayattRuffleS.CoM tue - Sat 11aM-7PM / Sun 11aM-4PM t: 314.567.7258 f: 314.567.9105 @butCheRyStl @tRuffleSStl www.todayattRuffleS.CoM

Inspired Local Food Culture

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The Far East just got a lot closer. S t. Louis’ newest Asian restaurant invites you to take a unique culinary excursion through a continent of exceptional dishes.

ONE AMERISTAR BLVD ST. CHARLES, MO 63301 | 636.949.7777 |


Must be 21 or older to gamble. Exclusions may apply. Gambling problem? Call 1-888-BETSOFF. ©2016 Pinnacle Entertainment Inc. All rights reserved.


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pizza party

Mona's serves up Roman-style pizzas in St. Louis, like this grilled zucchini pie with grilled peppers, basil, chipotle and San Marzano tomato sauce on p. 25. photography by j. pollack photography

on trend

dare to

éclair Written by Liz MiLLer

Traditional French éclairs are beautiful in their simplicity: Pâte à choux pastry dough is baked, filled with vanilla pastry cream and then finished with chocolate icing. Éclairs can provide a foundational canvas for experimenting with creative flavor and texture combinations. From Japan to London to cities across the Midwest, pastry chefs are redefining the classic pastry with modern flourishes.

MORE éclaiRs with flaiR ▶ At La Patisserie Chouquette in St. Louis, founder Simone Faure and pastry chef Patrick Devine make a variety of creative éclairs; past flavors include pumpkin-chai, pistachio-orange and blueberry-lemon. ▶ Coffee éclairs are offered daily at French Market in the Prairie Village Shopping Center in Prairie Village, Kansas. ▶ Chef Claude Aoun makes raspberry éclairs, as well as classic chocolate and vanilla, which are sold at Decade coffee shop in Lawrence, Kansas, through his company, French Gourmet C.A. ▶ In October, Novel pastry chef Jessica Armstrong served savory crab éclairs with crème fraîche, caviar and chervil at a dinner at Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar in Kansas City.

walnut-praline LENEXA, KS. When Chris and Kate Matsch opened Ibis Bakery, the

focus was on French-style sourdough breads. As the bakery and its loyal customer base grew, the couple expanded the team to include pastry chefs such as Tim Veith, Ibis’ pastry production supervisor. he introduced kouign-amann, a cake native to the Brittany region of France, as well as kouign-amann tarts, galettes, galettes Danishes and a seasonally rotating éclair. “I love pâte à choux – I think it’s such versatile dough to work with; there’s so much you can do with it and it’s a great method for any number of flavors and fillings,” Veith says. “I had seen some pastry chefs worldwide doing some really neat things with éclairs… particularly one in France – so bright, colorful and flavorful.” he first introduced a salted caramel flavor last fall. “To get that really strong caramel flavor to come through, you really have to torch the sugar to get a robust and dark caramel flavor,” he says. Last winter, Ibis featured a toasted coconut cream éclair, followed by an Earl Grey flavor in spring and vanilla bean over the summer. This fall, Ibis served a walnut-praline éclair developed by pastry chef Kathryn ratzlaff. Veith adds that Ibis will serve a maple-pecan flavor this winter topped with candied pecans.

Your local seed to glass Distillery

913.669.9883, PhOTO OTO B By WILLIAM hEss

candied apple St. LouIS. When pastry assistant Alice harvey started making éclairs at Brasserie by Niche, james Beard award-winning chef Gerard Craft’s French-style bistro, three years ago, she was directed to use classic French desserts as her inspiration; early éclair flavors included lemon meringue and peach-melba. harvey soon found herself inspired by sweets from around the world, as well as her childhood. In the past two years, she’s whipped up an éclair with matcha pastry cream, vanilla whipped cream and matcha icing. In early september, she featured an éclair with buttery popcorn pastry cream, salted caramel and popped sorghum. harvey remembered that the chefs at Brasserie had previously made popcorn ice cream and “figured that if you can make ice cream taste like popcorn, you can make pastry cream through a similar process.” she topped the éclair with popped sorghum because “the pieces are so tiny when they pop; instead of having two or three pieces of regular popcorn, you can have a full mound of popped sorghum for lots of crunch and flavor.” harvey left Brasserie in October, and now pastry chef Elise Mensing has taken up the éclair r&D. “I really like the nostalgia of desserts, too, and we’ll keep drawing from childhood memories in our éclairs,” Mensing says. This fall, she served a candied apple flavor with cream cheese-apple filling and a caramel glaze.

Gary and the crew at Wood Hat suggest

making your holidays cheery with


314.454.0600, PhOTO By VIrGInIA hArOLD

winter citrus CHAMPAIGN, IL. Kaya Tate attended pastry school in Portland, Oregon,

and worked in kitchens across the world before founding Hopscotch: Cakes & Confections in 2014 in Champaign, Illinois. Today, her cakes, marshmallows, and more are sold out of Art Mart, a specialty wine and grocery store nearby. There, Tate serves one or two éclairs in her dessert case each week. Past flavors have included Winter Citrus made with salted choux pastry, bitter orange-chocolate pastry cream, candied pistachios and grapefruit rind with blood orange coulis; and English Breakfast with choux pastry, charred lemon-juniper posset (a British custard made with just cream, sugar and citrus), bergamot sablé crumbles and cocoa-nib glass. “I used to live in Oxford, England, and I love English pastries,” Tate says. “When I made the English Breakfast éclair, it reminded me of English tea, but in pastry form. And a lot of people have never had posset in their life – they don’t know what it is – and I like to give people a teeny bit of history, too.”

4 parts

2 parts

½ part

Serve either neat or on the rocks Available throughout Missouri in liquor stores carrying local products. New Florence, MO. Distillery open for tours and tastings. Thursday – Monday 10:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. 573-216-3572 Cell | 573-835-1000 Distillery

PhOTO By jusTInE BursOnI Inspired Local Food Culture

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where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.

the antler room KANSAS CITY. in october, The Antler Room opened its doors in Kansas city’s hospital hill neighborhood; the highly anticipated restaurant is a casual, cool spot that feels uniquely grounded and personal. husband-and-wife team nick and Leslie goellner have clearly put their hearts into every detail. the dinner-only menu offers plates with fresh and unexpected flavor that are also comforting, mirroring the cozy, rustic Scandinavian look of the dining room that’s accented with midcentury pieces. Starters include fried castelvetrano olives, offering a crispy and briny bite, and lamb briouat, which look like familiar puff-pastry appetizers, but

written by Jenny Vergara

pack a punch when stuffed with lamb, eggplant, berbere spice, caper chermoula and chiles. a full section of the menu is dedicated to fresh pastas, all made in-house with various flours that allow nick and his culinary team to play with flavor and texture. Maitake mushroom farfalle features rabbit pepperoni, while a duck-filled agnolotti is tossed with oyster mushrooms, fennel and pickled mustard seeds. there’s also a selection of hand-crafted cocktails, wines by the glass or bottle, along with a handful of local beers. 816.605.1967,


zayka Story and photography by ana pierce

SPRINGFIELD, MO. although downtown Springfield, Missouri, photography by anna petrow

has a lot to offer, finally, indian food is on the menu. Located on South Jefferson avenue, Zayka held its grand opening last month, serving both single menu items as well as buffet-style dining for lunch. on the weekends, the restaurant offers indian-style street food for those who want to eat on the run. Samosas, chole bhature, pakoras and more are available to share with family and friends or to savor a la carte. in addition to lunch and dinner service, Zayka features a full bar. 417.351.4400,

stage left diner


with lighter colors and refurbished with new stools, kitchen equipment and reupholstered booths. Beracha kept a few fun touches of City Diner nostalgia, including a vintage motorcycle decorated with the British flag. Overall, Beracha says the goal of Stage Left is to win back the confidence of the neighborhood, especially Saint Louis University students and audiences leaving a show at The Fabulous Fox Theatre and other surrounding venues. 314.533.7500,

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photography by JacKLyn Meyer

st. louis. After a costume change, City Diner at the Fox is ready to perform as stage left Diner. Under new ownership, Stage Left aims to be Grand Center’s go-to spot for quality diner fare with a twist. Expect classics like smashburgers, spoon-drop biscuits and creamy milkshakes as well as new additions like sweet and savory crêpes and loaded breakfast skillets. Along with executive chef Ryan Cooper’s plentiful menu, restaurateur Brad Beracha also wanted to update the diner’s interior. The space was cleaned, repainted

wRiTTen by SARAh Kloepple



n eo o

brendan marsden owner, mona’s and whitebox eatery


Written by Valeria turturro klamm

visit our coffee 120+ whiskeys Bar and roastery

Don’t drink coffee, enjoy it!

kirkwood, Mo | thewoodcask.coM

ST. LoUIS. in mid-october, brendan marsden opened the doors to Mona’s,

photography by j. pollack photography

an american-italian restaurant in the iconic italian-american St. louis neighborhood the hill. marsden, who also owns Whitebox eatery in clayton, missouri, previously owned modesto tapas bar & restaurant for 15 years in the location that mona’s now occupies. open for lunch and dinner monday through Saturday, mona’s serves a base menu of 10 specialty pizzas, four pasta dishes, appetizers, salads and a handful of desserts, as well as changing specials. executive chef carlos hernandez, who also helmed the kitchen at Spanish-influenced modesto, has a background in pizza from his time at pW pizza in St. louis. “We’re doing whatever we want to do,” marsden says. “We’re not trying to be authentic and not trying to be like every other spaghettiand-meatball place. We’re doing our own thing.” Why did you decide to close Modesto? the fact that modesto was open as long as it was is kind of crazy because i have trouble concentrating and doing something for 15 minutes, let alone 15 years. it felt like a good time to close the restaurant, exit on a high note and start a new chapter. i’ve had this concept – or a variation of it – in mind for a long time. We really love the space, and the fact that we’re on the hill wasn’t even important when it came to our decision. it was really kind of a coincidence that we’re doing our take on italian in St. louis’ most popular italian neighborhood. What inspired you to go that direction with Mona’s? i’m a lot more italian than i am Spanish, which is funny because i opened a Spanish restaurant on the hill. i actually am italian-american; [my mom’s family] is Sicilian. there are a lot of great italian restaurants in St. louis. there are several that do a really great job with italian-american – all those dishes we’ve grown up with that aren’t necessarily authentic italian. you’ve got a handful of other restaurants that are doing a great job of authentic italian food. i decided i was going to do my own thing. We’re drawing upon regional american cuisine and non-italian cuisine, so we decided we were going to call it american-italian cuisine. How do some of the menu items exemplify that concept? We have a pasta dish made with potato gnocchi, pork belly, roasted corn cream and cheddar. one of our pizzas is a take on ham and pineapple, as well as tacos al pastor. it has pork belly, pineapple, cilantro and onion. another one of our pizzas is a take on the traditional margherita, where we use smoked tomatoes and a little bit of bacon. our pizzas are roman-style, with a thin and crispy crust. We make our dough in house and smoke [our] meats; we use a cheese blend of italian and american cheeses. How did you transform the space from Modesto to Mona’s? We reused what we had before in a creative way. the design evolved over the course of the remodel. i decided to lighten the place up [and] picked out a couple of colors that i wanted to use, and it went from there. i looked for creative ways to manipulate or build upon what we already had and then tie it all together. 314.772.8272,

Flores Kenya AA City Limits Honduras Komodo Marcala Kifahari Blend Dragon RFA SHG 7360 Manchester Rd. Maplewood, MO

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make your reservation today 636 277 0202 | 1520 S. 5th Street, St. Charles, MO

Inspired Local Food Culture

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destination: tulsa, oklahoma |1|

road trip


Only a five-and-a-half-hour drive from St. Louis and a four-hour drive from Kansas City, Tulsa, Oklahoma, is a fantastic road trip for anyone looking to escape for a few days. This December, think about a weekend trip to Tulsa before your holiday celebrations get underway. Revel at Winterfest, which kicked off last month and runs through Jan. 15, where you can enjoy some of the best restaurants in the city’s underrated culinary scene.







A Tulsa staple for almost 50 years, Bodean brings in fresh seafood from around the world twice a day. Whether you’re looking for diver scallops, ahi tuna or oysters, Bodean is a must for any fine-dining meal. The from-scratch kitchen changes its menu daily, but look for staples like pan-seared jumbo sea scallops, served with housemade chorizo, grilled corn, fingerling potatoes, salsa verde and cotija espuma. Additionally, all of its fresh seafood can be purchased in a market next door. 918.743.3861,

Part of the Blue Dome District’s revitalization in the past few years, Juniper has quickly risen to the top of the ranks as one of the best restaurants in Tulsa and even all of Oklahoma. Creativity is second to none at Juniper, whether it be the restaurant's extensive cocktail list full of housemade infused liquors or its dinner menu featuring whimsical and delicious dishes. A favorite is the Duck Two Ways – tarragon- and honey-seared duck breast served with a duck confit and warm apple salad. 918.794.1090,

| 1 | PHOTO cOurTesy bOdean

| 2 | PHOTO cOurTesy visiTTulsa.cOm

elote café & catering

smoke. on cherry street

A downtown Tulsa gem, Elote Café & Catering serves fresh Mexican and Tex-Mex dishes with meats sourced about 30 miles south of the city. Try the signature puffy tacos, or choose from salmon, fried avocado or quinoa tacos; vegan and gluten-free options are also available. Of course, Elote offers Margaritas from the classic to the Caliente made with house-infused spicy tequila. For those wanting a little entertainment with their meal, be sure to catch one of the many Luchadores wrestling matches held throughout the year. 918.582.1403, | 3 | PHOTO cOurTesyelOTe cafÈ & caTering



dust bowl lanes & lounge

christmas lights helicopter tour

Channel your inner Lebowski, order a White Russian and roll the evening away at Dust Bowl Lanes & Lounge. The 1970s-inspired bowling alley and bar is part of the up-and-coming revitalized Blue Dome District and features eight lanes of bowling with elevated pub-style food and craft cocktails. Be sure to brush up on your math skills – all scores are tracked by hand.

Through Dec. 28, Production Air Services offers Christmas-light tours via helicopter. With rides ranging from 10 to 30 minutes, there are a number of options to take in the city’s Christmas spirit from a Santa’s-eye view. Prices range from $30 to $300, depending on the length of your flight and number of people. This veteran-operated service also holds a special flight event each December for children and the families of children battling cancer.



| 4 | PHOTO cOurTesy dusT bOwl lanes & lOunge

| 5 | PHOTO cOurTesy PrOducTiOn air HelicOPTer services

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Although any meal is delicious at Smoke. on Cherry Street, brunch is truly a treat at this Cherry Street anchor. Focused on locally sourced ingredients, Smoke’s brunch menu is filled with playful takes on familiar comfort foods. The chicken-fried bacon is a must: Thick cuts of housemade bacon are battered and fried and served with a sweet and spicy Sriracha dipping sauce. Another favorite is the pulled pork and cornbread waffle, a stacked plate of a honey-cornbread waffle, slow-smoked pulled pork and Tabasco slaw.

local gems



the mayo hotel The Mayo Hotel offers an opulent setting in the heart of downtown Tulsa. The art deco design belies its rich history: Built in 1925, the hotel’s guests included Elvis, President John F. Kennedy and Babe Ruth. After closing in 1981, it sat vacant for more than two decades before a $42-million renovation in 2009. The hotel is filled with charm and character as well as modern amenities. 918.582.6296, | 6 | PHOTO cOurTesy visiTTulsa.cOm

the campbell hotel This renovated boutique hotel was originally built in 1927 and reopened its doors in 2011. Eclectic, eccentric and certainly unique, The Campbell Hotel features 26 guestrooms, each with its own luxury theme. The Spanish colonial revival building was renovated with the help of 40 local designers and is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Indulge in a spa treatment, grab a drink at The Campbell Lounge or order room service from the adjoining (and historic) Maxxwells Restaurant. 918.744.5500,



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damien tiregol

executive chef-owner, crabby’s seafood bar & grill writteN by aNa pierce

photography by Mark NeueNschwaNder

JoPLIn, Mo. tucked away inside an unassuming building in Joplin, Missouri, awaits Crabby’s Seafood Bar & Grill. on a usual evening, the restaurant serves classic and well-executed steak and seafood like lump crab and smoked gouda dip; aged rib-eye with white truffle mashed potatoes, French green beans, cherry tomatoes and a Madeira-veal glacé; and pan-seared chilean sea bass with sautéed sesame asparagus, wild mushrooms and a mirin-butter sauce. damien tiregol, crabby’s owner and executive chef, is giving customers an opportunity to explore with crabby’s chef’s table, a new bimonthly dining series featuring five-course meals with wine pairings. tiregol has seen success with wine-pairing dinners in the past, and now, he’s kicking it up a notch. past crabby’s chef’s table dinners have included tastings of foie gras, monk fish, wagyu rib-eye and ganache with banana sorbet, crispy plantains and braised pork belly. Look for the next dinner on dec. 15 at 6pm.

How did you get your start in the restaurant industry? i’ve been cooking since i was 5, in the kitchen with my grandma. My grandfather had a garden that we tended to together – fresh produce, peach trees, strawberry patches, corn, cabbage, potatoes, brussels sprouts, green beans, bell peppers and various types of melons… this is where my love for food started. What’s the development process like for Crabby’s Chef’s Table? My staff and i sit down and try to figure out the flow of the dinner first. we want to ensure your palate has a chance to advance with the courses. i like bold dishes, but i also love clean, straightforward flavors. if one dish explodes with flavor, the next will complement it, but be simpler. as the dinner progresses, it all ties together. it's like thanksgiving dinner: the components are sweet, salty, crunchy and crispy, but each part is its own separate dish. What can guests expect at your dinners? we always have a great time! My primary concern is that these dinners are enjoyable. yes, we are excited to showcase our food and service, but we also offer a casual experience with some fun wine education. everyone eats together at a long table. we have garden flowers and fresh organic produce. it’s all local, farm-to-table. What’s one ingredient you love to feature and keep coming back to? i love all things pork. Not just bacon – pork jowls, ears, head – every part of that beautiful animal is delicious and extremely versatile. pork osso bucco is a favorite dish to make during the fall season. it reminds me of eating pork roast each sunday at my grandparents’ house; it’s a great, nostalgic feeling. What's next for you? i really want to write a cookbook or open another restaurant with a different concept – i can't make up my mind. as for right now, i'm focused on building crabby’s to be even better. i think we are getting there with our wine dinners and other improvements. one of the main things i’m focused on is getting better at what i do daily [by] being a better leader, chef and owner – constantly pushing my boundaries, never being satisfied and, as always, pleasing people with my food.

Throughout 2016, we visited six different coffee growing regions,visiting farms, selecting top lots, and learning more from our producer partners, and we couldn’t have done it without you. By strengthening our relationships with our producers and communities, we can ensure the quality of your coffee for years to come. Thank you!








417.206.3474, Inspired Local Food Culture

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IN SeASoN: SepTember To DeCember

Sweet PotatoeS WRiTTen bY beTHAnY CHRiSTo



Although often used interchangeably, sweet potatoes are not the same as yams, nor are they related to the potato plant. Starchy tubers of the morning glory plant, sweet potatoes come in two main varieties, white and red, but hues can range from purple to rose, as well.

noodle bowl ST. LoUIS. As a vegetarian restaurant focused on the freshest local and seasonal ingredients, Small Batch, located in St. Louis’ Midtown neighborhood, has to get creative in the colder months when the pantry starts looking a little depleted. its fall and winter menu, introduced mid-october, features hearty, warming dishes like feijoada, a Portuguese black bean stew, and a green-curry noodle bowl garnished with a sweet potato lumpia. nowell gata is executive sous chef for baileys’ Restaurants, the restaurant group that encompasses Small batch, and says his mother’s lumpia recipe was his inspiration. in addition to sweet potatoes, the Filipino egg roll is filled with bean sprouts, green beans, garlic and soy vinegar. back in July, gata and the kitchen crew also came up with a vegetarian "pulled-pork" sandwich special using sautéed sweet potatoes and carrots braised in a sweet-and-spicy barbecue sauce, topped with summer slaw and fried shiitake mushrooms.


grilled CHeF’S TIp

KANSAS CITY. “We’re farm to table, so

our menu changes depending on what [we have] in the house,” says Michael Foust, chef-owner of The Farmhouse in Kansas City’s River Market neighborhood. “When we’re looking around in December or January, there’s not as much to work with, so we start getting creative and look at [different] techniques.” Last January, he sliced a sweet potato; tossed it in olive oil, salt and pepper; and added it to a smoking-hot grill. “You get that smoky hint and a bit of char that adds a nice bitter [taste] to counter the sweet,” Foust says. He served it in a smoked-walleye salad with deviled egg, spinach, red onion, crispy capers and charred-lemon vinaigrette. After a recent trip to Portugal, Foust was inspired to use the versatile vegetable in a rich stew made with roasted sweet potatoes, locally raised shrimp from KC Shrimp, fermented black beans, ham and cilantro chimichurri. “The most beautiful thing about the sweet potatoes is the storage – if farmers have a big enough bumper crop, they can run us all the way to July,” he says. Foust sources his sweet potatoes from farmer Thane Palmberg in De Soto, Kansas, who stores them in his root cellar and drops off 20 to 30 pounds each week during winter. “The best way to store them is in their own dirt – dirt is like nature’s cellophane,” Foust says. “You don’t want to scrub or clean them; you want to pull them out of the field as dirty as possible and put them into the burlap in the root cellar.” Check The Farmhouse’s Facebook page for new sweet potato dishes; Foust says in the winter months, one of his favorite pairings with the root vegetable is wild boar. 816.569.6032,

oNLINe eXTrA Check out pastry chef Christy Augustin's recipe for savory sweet-potato scones online at


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“I think the sweet potato has a very definitive place in vegetarian cooking because it has a variety of textures depending on how you cook it: Baking produces a soft, silky, delicious result that doesn’t need to be messed with. But frying it produces the opposite effect and makes amazing, crunchy hash browns.” –Nowell Gata, executive sous chef for Baileys’ Restaurants

mock ‘n’ cheeze CoLUmbIA, mo. Range Free chef-owner Anna Meyer has an ironic sense of nostalgia for sweet potatoes. She used to hate them when she was a kid, but that changed after she was diagnosed with 24 food allergies in 2009 and had to shift her outlook. now, she uses the root vegetable in a variety of preparations at her allergen-free bakery and café in Columbia, Missouri. one of the most popular is its Mock ‘n’ Cheeze, which combines grain-free housemade fettuccine noodles with its “nah-cheeze,” a dairy-free cheese substitute made with boiled and puréed sweet potatoes, nutritional yeast, salt and lemon. “There are a lot of dairy-free cheeses on the market made from cashews, but because we’re nut-free, that wasn’t really an option,” Meyer says. With the consistency and tang of nacho cheese, nah-cheeze is a crowd-pleaser at Range Free. The vegetable also figures prominently in her winter soup with roasted sweet potatoes, apples, onions, hard cider and coriander, as well as a vegan and Paleo chili. “The biggest reason we use sweet potatoes in a lot of our dishes is for people who can’t have nightshades, which white potatoes and tomatoes fall into, but sweet potatoes don’t,” Meyer adds. “They're really on the forefront as a tomato replacement.”




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bryan sparks executive chef, ostrea st. joseph Written by April Fleming

ST. JoSePH, Mo. Hundreds of miles

pHOtOgrApHy by zACH bAumAn

from any coast, Kansas City has never been considered a seafood destination. yet a new crop of chefs and restaurateurs, including bryan Sparks of Ostrea St. Joseph, are bringing ever-fresher fish to the midwest. As its name would suggest, Ostrea specializes in oysters, served both fresh – one or two days out of the water and bare except for a few drops from a squeezed lemon – or lightly fried with decadent toppings including lardons and blue cheese. look for a second location of Ostrea to open in Kansas City next year. What’s your culinary background? i’m from brookside, so [i’m] Kansas City born and bred. At 19, i joined the Coast guard; i served seven years, mostly in the great lakes area. While i was up there, my commanding officer, who was a foodie, introduced me to the whole world of cooking beyond typical military food. From there i went to Schoolcraft College right outside of Detroit, where i got my culinary degree. my first job back here was at genessee royale bistro. For a new cook to come in and work at a place like that, which allows you to mature quickly, was a great thing. From there i went to 801 Fish in leawood, Kansas, and then helped open Jax Fish House & Oyster bar in Kansas City. that was where i found myself, i guess. it opened my eyes to sustainability and plating. your plate doesn’t have to have a thousand things on it; if you cook great ingredients well, then that’s all you need. it’s also where i learned about oysters. Did you have much seafood experience prior to those restaurants? the great thing about the Coast guard, where i was, is that we were in a situation where i could go to farmers’ markets and bakeries up in Detroit. i got to explore a lot up there. We cooked a lot of perch, and i ordered a lot from Sea to table, which acts as an intermediary between chefs and fishermen. it only works with sustainably farmed or sustainably harvested fish. What should we know about oysters? the east Coast oysters are typically grown in the Virginia area. Some of the best ones come from the rappahannock bay. On the West Coast, the best ones you find are north of California, where it’s colder. West Coast ones are a lot creamier [and] smaller, and there is a bigger variation between the different breeds. east Coast oysters are more briny and their liquor is more salty. For the average person who has never had an oyster before, [those] are where you want to be at. in my opinion, the best oyster you can get is a rappahannock. What oysters do you serve at Ostrea? We serve a madhouse and a Stingray. both are from the Virginia area. they are really solid oysters. the madhouse has a kind of melon-y finish to it and is a little bit sweeter; the Stingray is a super briny, good oyster. the taste is important [because] in St. Joe, many people have not had oysters as fresh as we’re getting them. We’re getting them here two to three days out of the water, which is very refreshing for being in the midwest. things i look for are uniformity in size and flavor. i also want a variety that holds a lot of liquor, and it gets kind of syrupy. that’s part of what makes the oyster good. 816.273.0582, Inspired Local Food Culture

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Regional RestauRant guide As proud supporters of Feast Magazine, we encourage you to visit any of these fine establishments. From fine dining to fast casual to local wineries, there is an array of experiences to choose from, so support and eat local!


2nd Shift Brewing 1601 Sublette Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.669.9013

Café Ventana 3919 W. Pine Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.531.7500

Duke’s 2001 Menard St. St. Louis, MO 314.833.6686

Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. multiple locations

4 Hands Brewing Co. 1220 S. Eighth St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.1559

Castelli’s Restaurant at 255 3400 Fosterburg Road Alton, IL 618.462.4620

Eleven Eleven Mississippi 1111 Mississippi Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.9999

Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria 9568 Manchester Road Rock Hill, MO 314.942.6555

21st Street Brewers Bar 2017 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.6969

Charlie Hooper’s 12 W. 63rd St. Kansas City, MO 816.361.8841

Farmers Gastropub 2620 S. Glenstone Ave. Springfield, MO 417.864.6994

King & I 3157 S. Grand Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.771.1777

Aya Sofia 6671 Chippewa St. St. Louis, MO 314.645.9919

Chaz on the Plaza at the Raphael Hotel 325 Ward Parkway Kansas City, MO 816.802.2152

Fratelli’s Ristorante 2061 Zumbehl Road St. Charles, MO 636.949.9005

Klondike Café at Montelle Vineyard 201 Montelle Drive at MO Highway 94 Augusta, MO 636.228.4464

BaiKu Sushi Lounge 3407 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.896.2500

Cleveland-Heath 106 N. Main St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.4830

Gallagher’s Restaurant 114 W. Mill St. Waterloo, IL 618.939.9933

La Cosecha Coffee Roasters 7360 Manchester Road Maplewood, MO 314.440.0337

Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas 325 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.3434

Cork & Barrel Chop House and Spirits 7337 Mexico Road St. Peters, MO 636.387.7030  Coming soon

Helen Fitzgerald’s 3650 S. Lindbergh Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.984.0026

Lew’s Grill & Bar 7539 Wornall Road Kansas City, MO 816.444.8080

Best Regards Bakery & Café 6759 W. 119th St. Overland Park, KS 913.912.7238

Corner Restaurant 4059 Broadway Kansas City, MO 816.931.4401

Hendricks BBQ 1200 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.8600

LuLu Seafood & Dim Sum 8224 Olive Blvd. University City, MO 314.997.3108

Bissell Mansion Restaurant & Dinner Theatre 4426 Randall Place St. Louis, MO 314.533.9830

Diablitos Cantina 3761 Laclede Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.644.4430

Herbie’s 8100 Maryland Ave. Clayton, MO 314.769.9595

Mai Lee 8396 Musick Memorial Drive Brentwood, MO 314.645.2835

The Blue Owl Restaurant and Bakery 6116 Second St. Kimmswick, MO 636.464.3128

Drunken Fish multiple locations

The Homesteader Cafe 100 E. Seventh St. #100 Kansas City, MO 816.474.8333

The Muddled Pig Gastropub 2733 Sutton Blvd. Maplewood, MO 314.781.4607

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YaYa’s Euro Bistro

Olympia Kebob House & Taverna 1543 McCausland Ave. Richmond Heights, MO 314.781.1299

Syberg’s multiple locations

Pappy’sSmokehouse 3106 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.535.4340

Trattoria Giuseppe 5442 Old State Route 21 Imperial, MO 636.942.2405

PW Pizza 2017 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.7799

Triumph Grill 3419 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.446.1801

Q39 1000 W. 39th St. Kansas City, MO 816.255.3753

Truffles and Butchery 9202 Clayton Road St. Louis, MO 314.567.9100

Ramon’s El Dorado 1711 St. Louis Road Collinsville, IL 618.344.6435

Twisted Tree Steakhouse 10701 Watson Road St. Louis, MO 314.394.3366

Ravanelli’s Restaurant 3 American Village 26 Collinsport Drive Granite City, IL | Collinsville, IL 618.877.8000 | 618.343.9000

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. 3229 Washington Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.222.0143

Sanctuaria 4198 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.535.9700

VindeSet 2017 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.8989

Feast Magazine’s First Annual Wedding Guide

e d i u g g n i d wed ward A feast for big day e guide to th

featuring: Wedding Cakes Cocktails Local Delicacies Venues & Recep


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top 5 catering

Winery Wed



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TheSchlafly TapRoom andSchlafly Bottleworks 2100 Locust St. 7260 Southwest Ave. St. Louis, MO | Maplewood, MO 314.241.2337

TheWell 7421 Broadway Kansas City, MO 816.361.1700

Food Bars Catering Venues don’t forget to research the ven


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Gather your group and indulge in Kansas City’s premier ad dining event, featuring multi-course menus at 150+ area restaurants. Make plans, and learn about this year’s featured charities, at Casual atmosp


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Stone Hill Winery 1110 Stone Hill Highway Hermann, MO 573.486.2221

Wood Cask 10332 Manchester Road Kirkwood, MO 314.858.1085

Coming in the January is s ue Call 314-475-1298 for more information ormation

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or tasting

Try a liqu Whisk

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Inspired Local Food Culture

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Till Vodka is proudly crafted from famous Kansas wheat. The result is a uniquely smooth, premium vodka

brought to life by some of the hardest working people around – but that part comes naturally to us. Because here

in the heartland, you don’t just get handed people’s respect or their loyalty. You earn it every day.

Be proud of your legacy. Enjoy responsibly. American Wheat Vodka • 40% ALC by VOL • Till Distilling Company, Atchison, Kansas


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holiday spirits

Warm up with the Ugly Cinner at Ugly Mugg in Columbia, Missouri, made with coffee, vodka, cinnamon schnapps, Rumchata and cinnamon on p. 36 photography by aaron ottis

on trend


cocktail inspired wRitteN by bethaNy chRisto


photogRaphy by JoNathaN gaymaN

Want a buzz without alcohol? specialty coffee drinks give you a drink that combines the nuance of a cocktail with the lift of coffee.

White Russian Recipe couRtesy isaac Neale aNd JasoN stRotheR, co-owNeRs, KiNgdom coffee seRves | 5 to 7 | virgin Kahlúa

1½ 1½ 1½

cups strong coffee (Chemex-brewed preferred) cups brown sugar tsp vanilla extract

“gin” tea

2 1

1 1²⁄3 2

tsp juniper berries, plus more for garnish tsp coriander seeds zest of 1 lemon tsp cascara cups water, plus more for diluting cups half-and-half (to serve) freshly grated nutmeg (for garnish)

| preparation – virgin kahlúa | in a saucepot over medium heat, stir all ingredients until sugar is dissolved. set aside. | preparation – “gin” tea | in a grinder, coarsely grind juniper berries and coriander seeds. in a saucepot over high heat, combine ground spices, lemon zest, cascara and 1²⁄3 cups water; heat for 10 minutes. Remove from heat, and strain. dilute 1 part tea with 3 parts water. | to serve | in a pitcher, combine equal parts virgin Kahlúa and half-and-half (about 2 cups each) with roughly 4 cups tea. Refrigerate until ready to serve. pour into 6- or 8-ounce glass, and garnish with juniper berries and nutmeg. serve chilled.

white russian sPRiNGFiElD, Mo. “We’re less about emulation and more about creation,” says Kingdom Coffee co-owner Isaac Neale. To that end, the Springfield, Missouri, shop served a Screwdriver-esque drink, the Brewdriver; it was inspired by espresso’s dominant chocolate notes that Neale thought would pair well with fresh orange juice, along with housemade vanilla syrup, served over ice. Kingdom’s rotating seasonal menu will debut three to five winter drinks starting Fri., Dec. 2, including a virgin White Russian. The drink is made with one part half-and-half; one part virgin Kahlúa made with single-origin Guatemala Huehuetenango coffee; and two parts gin-inspired tea made with cascara, coriander seeds, juniper berries and lemon. “Our mantra is ‘as good as or better than anywhere else’ – and you can get a coffee mocktail here for $5.50 that’s as good as anywhere else,” Neale says. “You can’t have quality that cheap with cocktails or wine or beer; you’re going to pay to get an elevated product. That’s what I love about coffee – it’s a totally approachable luxury experience.”


of the season KANsAs CitY. When Second Best Coffee café manager Gentry

Houston creates drinks for the Kansas City roaster and coffee shop, he starts with seasonal elements and then tries to represent them in a beverage. “Our goal with a specialty drink is to create an experience with the coffee as the foundation for other ingredients,” he says. A summer favorite was The Gentleman with espresso and lightly sweetened citrus. This fall, Second Best served an Appled Kyoto, made with apple, cinnamon and Kyoto cold-brewed coffee, shaken and served over ice, as well as Jack Gusto, which combined espresso, house-roasted pumpkin purée, maple syrup, dark brown sugar and fall baking spices that was shaken with ice and strained. “I often think of it in elements: I need a sweet element, I need a bitter element, maybe I need a savory element, and then temperature and presentation just kind of fall in line from there,” Houston says. Second Best’s winter menu debuts this month and will include new coffee drinks. 816.377.0354,

coffee shrubs st. louis. Tim Wiggins and Scott Carey are constantly innovating in

their respective workplaces – Wiggins as bar manager and beverage director at Retreat Gastropub and Carey as owner of Sump Coffee – and together they’re pushing boundaries. This summer, the pair joined forces to offer a series of three specialty coffee drinks composed of shrubs developed by Wiggins that use coffee made by Carey, including a Julep-inspired drink using a shrub made from Burundian coffee, honey, mint and apple cider vinegar combined with tonic. The seasonal drinks are and only available at Sump, and the two have plans in the works for winter. Wiggins offers a Cold-Fashioned on Retreat’s brunch menu, made with Sump cold brew, sugar and Angostura bitters. He also recently added Breakfast Flip to the menu, featuring Sump brew, brown sugar, a whole egg and nutmeg. “Coffee mocktails combine the creativity of what baristas are doing with what bartenders are doing, so my worlds overlap,” Wiggins says. 314.261.4497, 917.412.5670,

Inspired Local Food Culture

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where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops.

goat hill coffee & soda


Written By Jenny Vergara

kansas city. When snowcone shop Little Freshie closed earlier


this summer on the Westside of Kansas City, it was hard to believe there could be another shop quite as cute to follow. Luckily, Goat Hill coffee & soda snapped up the ready-made space, filling the neighborhood’s need for great coffee, handcrafted sodas and snowcones made with Little Freshie syrups. tanner stevens and Levi Holland, who own Post Coffee Co. in Lee’s summit, Missouri, opened Goat Hill in september as their first coffee hub in Kansas City proper, serving Post coffee and Little Freshie’s beloved sodas and snowcones in flavors like orange-spiced honey and vanilla-fig. Goat Hill also features pastries and donuts from Hana’s Donuts and Heirloom Bakery & Hearth. Order any of the dozen or so classic coffee offerings, including pour overs and cortados, or the Brinkley, a 6-ounce latte with cinnamon, clove, ginger syrup and a raw-sugar rim garnished with a candied orange slice. 816.491.3832,



2nd shift brewing WrITTeN BY LIz MILLer

st. LOUIs. As of November, one of St. Louis’


favorite craft breweries is now located within city limits. In July, 2nd Shift Brewing moved from its home in New Haven, Missouri – where the brewery’s been based since opening in 2010 – to 1601 Sublette Ave. in The Hill neighborhood of St. Louis. The brewery has been in operation since summer, and the tasting room opened last month. The new 18,000-square-foot property features a 13,000-square-foot production facility and tasting room where customers can peek at the brewing process while sipping flagship, seasonal and one-off releases. Favorites include Art of Neuroses, an IPA; Katy, a saison brewed with Brettanomyces lambicus yeast; Green Bird Gose; and Hibiscus Wit, a Belgian wit made with hibiscus flowers. The tasting room also features a food menu developed by Tilford restaurant Group, which operates Mission Taco Joint, Tortillaria and Milagro Modern Mexican restaurants in the St. Louis area. eats include barbecue-duck quesadillas, Sriracha popcorn, a variety of paninis, and meat and cheese plates featuring local Volpi salami. 314.669.9013, 36

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ugly mugg


COLUMBIA, MO. Ugly Mugg is downtown Columbia, Missouri’s latest coffee

option, but with a twist: alcohol. “We tried to make sure we had a different niche than other coffee shops in town,” says owner Jenny Thompson. Ugly Mugg offers a variety of hot and cold coffee and spirit concoctions. Thompson says the Northern Irishman, nitrogen-infused cold-brew coffee with a house blend of rum (made with rum from local DogMaster Distillery and Jameson), has been the most popular drink. For a boozy, caffeinated dessert, try the Salty Sea Turtle, a blended iced-coffee drink made with chocolate and caramel syrups, a house spirit created with DogMaster whiskey, and a whipped cream and pecan topping. Ugly Mugg also offers espresso, drip coffee, nitrogen-infused Black Ice Nitro cold brew, nitro Italian sodas and a selection of teas. You can grab Frannie Franks Coffee Cakes and B&B bagels every day of the week, too; on the weekends, Ugly Mugg features live blues or jazz. 573.673.5757,



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tait russell kevin klein director of operations

head brewer, charleville brewing co. WRITTEn By SARAH KLOEPPLE

st. louis. The ever-growing beer


scene in St. Louis can soon add another brewery to its roster: Charleville Brewing Co. announced in October it will bring a facility to the city this spring. Charleville, which operates its flagship winery and brewery in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, will open a 7-barrel brewery near Lafayette Square on Chouteau Avenue. It will offer its core year-round and seasonal beers, and the second location will allow its brewers the chance to get creative with draft-only brews. When it comes to food, Charleville is bringing on some of St. Louis’ most prolific restaurateurs: Paul and Wendy Hamilton of Hamilton Hospitality – who own Vin de Set, Eleven Eleven Mississippi, 21st Street Brewers Bar, PW Pizza and Moulin Events – are behind the brewery’s restaurant, which will offer casual counter service and elevated fare. (The Hamiltons also own the building housing the brewery’s second location.) The brewery’s winter seasonal, Whiskey Scented Santa, an imperial porter aged with whiskey-infused oak chips, will be released at the still-under-construction tasting room on Dec. 1. Charleville’s head brewer, Kevin Klein (pictured right), and director of operations, Tait Russell (pictured left), will help with the transition before hopefully bringing on another brewer for the St. Louis location. Why bring a new brewery and restaurant to St. Louis? We’ve always considered ourselves local to St. Louis. We’ve been distributing in St. Louis for 10 years. Aside from Schlafly Beer and O’Fallon [Brewery], we were one of the first distributing craft breweries in the St. Louis area. It’s always been a major market. So it just made sense. –Tait Russell Accessibility to us became difficult because we’re all the way out in wine country. I think [the St. Louis brewery] is bringing [our beer] to the market where we move most of our product. –Kevin Klein What can people expect from this new location? This is an opportunity for us to connect with the St. Louis community. It’s going to be a nice outlet for us to have not only our current list of beers (core year-round and core seasonal) but also to allow us to be playful with draft-only beers… and play with different styles and experimental things like barrel-aging. Our winery’s [offerings] will be for sale, as well, and we’ll begin to produce an in-house cider. That’s something we’ve been wanting to do for a long time. –T.R. How did you end up partnering with the Hamiltons? We’ve had a long relationship with them. My wife used to work with Paul. Jason Arnold, the director of operations [for Hamilton Hospitality], organizes the Centennial Beer Festival. We’ve always been a part of that. When we were thinking about food partners, they were the first on our list. When I reached out to Paul and Jason about the food, that’s when [Paul] told me he was purchasing the building across the street [from Vin de Set and PW Pizza] and said, “Hey, take a look at it.” –T.R. What do you have in mind for new brews at the St. Louis location? Most of them are, I wouldn’t call it basic, but very approachable styles – things that aren’t too far out there. They are things that aren’t being done in St. Louis and that would be approachable for somebody who is just now getting into craft beer. –K.K. What else are you excited about in this new venture? I’ve brewed on both the 30-barrel system [at Charleville in Ste. Genevieve] and the 7-barrel system [moving from Ste. Genevieve to St. Louis]. I’m excited to get to brew on the 7 a little bit more… I like the smaller system. It’s just a little more intimate. It goes from being nine-to-five factory work to [more actual] brewing. That’s what I’m looking forward to – just getting to do smaller batches and having more of that romance you imagine with brewing. –K.K.

new exhibit

now open

dig deeper at

573.756.4537, Inspired Local Food Culture

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AffogAto STory AnD reCIpe By MATT SeITer pHoTogrApHy By JonATHAn gAyMAn

CoConut AffogAto SerVeS | 1 |

1 ½ 1 1

small scoop vanilla ice cream oz Kōloa Kaua’i Coffee Liqueur oz Kōloa Kaua’i Coconut Rum double shot freshly brewed espresso freshly grated nutmeg (for garnish)

| preparation | Scoop ice cream into a coffee mug. Add coffee liqueur and rum, and top with hot espresso; stir briefly. garnish with nutmeg, and serve.


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Holiday parties are filled with punch, mulled wine and Hot Toddys (turn to p. 92 for some of our favorite warm cocktails). This year, I recommend adding an affogato – a mix of ice cream or gelato and hot espresso or coffee. Affogato translates to “drowned” in Italian, and that’s what you are doing to the gelato or ice cream – drowning it in espresso or coffee. But let’s be real here: It’s the holidays. Take that classic combination, and add spirits and liqueurs that pair well with both the bitterness of the coffee and the sweetness of ice cream. I’m especially infatuated with the combination of coconut and coffee, but you can try pairings like butter-pecan ice cream, chocolate-chip ice cream, espresso and Amaro Montenegro; or try lemon ice cream, espresso and Kahlúa. Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild (USBG)’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of The Dive Bar of Cocktail Bars, bar manager at BC’s Kitchen, and a bar and restaurant consultant.


vincent rodriguez owner, maps coffee roasters


BommaRito estate almonD tRee WineRy’s 2009 missouRi PoRt written by Hilary HeDgeS

provenance: new Haven, Missouri pairings: Pecan pie • Blue cheese • Dark chocolate truffles

the 2009 Missouri port from Bommarito Estate Almond Tree Winery is a wine you can enjoy throughout your entire meal, not just with dessert. it’s full-bodied and rich, yet smooth and approachable. Made from estate-grown grapes, the port is a field blend of 90 percent norton and 10 percent Chambourcin and St. Vincent. brandy is then added to stop fermentation. it was aged five years in a combination of Missouri, French and Hungarian oak barrels, giving it nutty aromas with a hint of cocoa and tobacco leaf. Flavors of plum and blueberry greet you, and cinnamon and spice linger on the finish. the 2009 Missouri port is available at bommarito estate’s tasting room in new Haven, Missouri. 573.237.5158, Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City.


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on the shelf : december picks

BoulevaRD BReWing Co.’s nutCRaCkeR ale written by ryan niCKelSon

style: winter warmer (7.8% abV) pairings: Wild game • Aged Cheddar • Salted caramel

the winter warmer beer style is generally a strong, dark and spiced beer with a warming finish that is welcome in the cold-weather months. Boulevard Brewing Co.’s nutcracker ale is a wonderful example of the style with a full, reddish-copper body; rich aromatics of spice and pine from fresh Chinook hops; and flavor notes of toffee, spice and caramel. balance between the malt-forward base beer and the spicy aromatics of a winter warmer is key: boulevard has brewed one right in that sweet spot with its nutcracker ale. 816.474.7095, Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, a craft beer shop located at 8113 Maryland Ave. in Clayton, Missouri. To learn more, call 314.222.2444 or visit


J. RiegeR & Co. DistilleRy’s left foR DeaD written by Matt Sorrell

provenance: Kansas City (44.5% abV) try it: in ryan Maybee’s take on a Caipirinha

(Find the recipe at

816.807.3867, When he’s not writing, Matt Sorrell can be found slinging drinks at Planter’s House in St. Louis’ Lafayette Square or bartending at events around town with his wife, Beth, for their company, Cocktails Are Go.

written by Jenny Vergara

leneXa, ks. when

Vincent rodriguez left his position with Starbucks, his plan was to ride off into the sunset and open a quality bike shop in Kansas City. and he did: rodriguez opened Velo + three years ago in the old town area of lenexa, Kansas. but he found he loved coffee in equal measure, so he started a second business within his bike shop, Maps Coffee Roasters. the roasted coffee beans are only available at Velo + because rodriguez wants to get to know his customers – preferably over a cup of coffee. He recently launched a personalized coffee program called My roast; guests can customize their beans and roasting level and order Maps Coffee just the way they like it. What makes Maps Coffee Roasters different? we are a small boutique-coffee company that wants to deliver hand-roasted craft coffee – but at the speed of the bigger chains. we want to get to know our customers and help them discover the type of beans and roasts they prefer, but we also want to roast their beans quickly. the absolute best cup of coffee comes from freshly roasted beans. Period. How do you source your beans? we source our beans from all over the world using local importers Kapeh-Utz and Midwest Coffee traders. instead of working directly with coffee farms or regions, i focus on keeping my business local and buying from local importers to get the absolute best beans i can from each country. What type of roast do you typically use? when it comes to roasting, we like to put light to medium roasts on our coffee beans. the trend in coffee roasting has been dark roasts, and we do one we call #black, but some people find that dark roasts taste bitter in the cup. So i started playing with a light-to-medium roast, which reduces the bitterness and brings out the subtle flavor aspects of each individual bean. Tell us about the guest-roaster classes. i started my two-hour guestroaster experience as a way to get to know my customers and their preferences better. in this class, i take groups of six people through seed-to-cup education and roasting coffee on my coffee roaster, and the group walks away with 12 packages of coffee, each 12 ounces, that we roasted during the class. Tell us about the My Roast program? the 30-minute program allows individuals the opportunity to select the type of bean(s) used and the level of roast we put on them. we go through a series of eliminations to create an individual coffee profile that reflects what the customer likes to drink. then, together we will roast the customer’s personalized coffee in about 12½ minutes. each guest’s preferred profile will then be stored and kept at Maps Coffee, so it’s easy for customers to order more beans when ready.

PHotograPHy by zaCH baUMan

two Kansas City favorites have joined forces to create a unique new spirit. Distilled in small batches from various boulevard brewing Co. beers – from 300 to just more than 1,000 bottles per batch – J. rieger & Co. Distillery’s left for Dead series is constantly evolving. the first spirit was distilled from boulevard Unfiltered wheat, while batch no. 2 came from a mixture of boulevard’s imperial Stout X: aztec Chocolate and imperial Stout X: tart Cherry. batches three and four came out in august and were distilled from the Calling iPa and a combination of bourbon barrel Quad and love Child no. 6, respectively. if you see any at your local liquor store, grab them while you can.


913.888.0533, Inspired Local Food Culture

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Pre-Event Holiday Special Buy One, Gift One Ticket (SAVE 50%)

visit for more details 40

dec em ber 2 0 1 6


artisan chocolates and confections Made in st. louis | by hand | FroM all-natural ingredients

grass fed beef

this christmas season Order Now and Request Christmas Week Delivery Anywhere In The Continental US kakao clayton 7720 Forsyth, Clayton 314.726.7974

kakao maplewood

7272 Manchester, Maplewood 314.645.4446

the perFect holiDay giFt 5 lbs. Ground Beef 2 lbs. Stew Meat 1 Two to Three Pound Roast

only $58 Visit

Meaningful Specialty Foods from Small Producers Thoughtfully Curated

Gift CertifiCates available

7310 Manchester Road • Maplewood, MO 63143 314.300.8995 •

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Inspired Local Food Culture

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You Think




dec em ber 2 0 1 6

the big cheese

Cool Cow Cheese owner opens Der Käse in Hermann, Missouri on p. 44. photography by natalie hinds

shop here


der käse written by bethany chriSto

herMANN, Mo. tom blatchford, owner of

Der Käse, knows a thing or two about cheese: in addition to owning the new hermann, Missouri, cheese shop, he’s a cheesemaker and dairy farmer. the products in his line of farmstead artisan cheeses, cool cow cheese, include varieties of gouda, edam and queso blanco, which are available at the 900-square-foot storefront that opened in august. along with his own cheese, blatchford stocks the shelves with more than 30 varieties, with a focus on what he calls “true artisan” Missouri cheesemakers, including baetje Farms, green dirt Farm and goatsbeard Farm. Make sure to pick up award-winning Flory’s truckle from Milton creamery if it’s in stock – it’s aged for more than a year and is intense and nutty. you can also purchase fresh sheep’s, goat’s or cow’s milk cheese cut to order in front of you.

PhotograPhy by natalie hindS

der Käse also sells accompaniments that would make perfect gifts for cheese-lovers like cutters, knives, cutting boards and serveware. round out your cheese-board offerings with fresh bread, sweets, jams and jellies from hummingbird Kitchen out of owensville, Missouri. in october, blatchford began offering Friday-night cheese classes and workshops, including “the Zen of cheesemaking” and “cheddar wars.” check der Käse’s Facebook page for upcoming workshops and its latest cheese offerings. 573.205.3071,

williams-sonoma maple snowflake rolling pin

nordic ware gingerbread house bundt pan

written by nancy StileS

written by nancy StileS

a simple rolling pin is the key to winning this year’s holiday cookie swap. the Williams-Sonoma Maple Snowflake rolling Pin embosses your cookies with a subtle snowflake pattern. roll oll out your cookie dough of choice with a traditional rolling pin, and then lightly follow with the snowflake pin to impart the delicate flakes. you ou can cut them into individual snowflakes using a biscuit cutter or make larger cookies that showcase the pattern. chill dough before baking for a crisper snowflake imprint.

gingerbread houses are cute, but it’s all too easy to have your precarious creation crumble. instead, use Nordic Ware’s gingerbread house bundt Pan. Simply follow your favorite cake recipe and create a festive dessert in the cast-aluminum pan; it’s designed to heat evenly and release easily. get creative decorating the house’s façade with royal icing and filling the hollow chimney with a candy surprise.

To learn more or to purchase the rolling pin, visit

To learn more or to purchase the Bundt pan, visit

PhotograPhy courteSy williaMS-SonoMa

PhotograPhy courteSy nordicware Photogra


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ceLebRate tHIS


SeaSON WItH uS Perfect for family dinners and business gatherings Booking parties now for 6 to 50+ guests

photography by jacklyn meyer

tuesday through saturday

lunch 11am-3Pm siP & savor 3Pm-6Pm *

dinner: 4:30Pm-10Pm for reservations, call Jimmy photography by jacklyn meyer

��������� ������� ��� � ������ ��� ������� ��� �� ��� � ��� � ���� �� ����������������������������


10701 Watson Rd. | Saint Louis, MO | Next door to Holiday Inn St. Louis SW

we’ve relocated to st. louis!

new tasting room

ng i m u eew s a h r B g tc

opening this month Opening date to be announced on our social feeds

1601 Sublette Ave | St Louis, MO 63110 | 314.669.9013 | Inspired Local Food Culture

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n eo o



mollie anderson founder, twinkle brews candle co. WRITTEN By BETHANy CHRISTO



ST. LoUIS. Enjoying beer is more than just tasting it – it’s also the yeasty aroma of a good saison or

the scents of chocolate and bourbon from a barrel-aged stout. Twinkle Brews Candle Co. founder Mollie Anderson turned that aroma into a business: Her candles are made from hand-cut recycled beer bottles – labels intact – filled with 100-percent soy wax that’s fragranced with the notes of the beer once found in the bottles. She focuses on local and regional brews, including those from 4 Hands Brewing Co., Perennial Artisan Ales, 2nd Shift Brewing, Boulevard Brewing Co. and Side Project Brewing, as well as national offerings. Twinkle Brews candles are available in small, medium and large sizes at St. Louis-area retailers including Craft Beer Cellar; The Novel Neighbor in Webster Groves, Missouri; and Philomena + Ruth in Waterloo, Illinois, as well as events and festivals including Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s winter markets on Dec. 3, 10 and 17. What inspired Twinkle Brews? Two years ago, I was sitting at home with my husband and drinking craft beers. The bottle labels were so cool, and I loved the aroma of the beers, but it made me so sad that we’d have to throw the bottles away after we were done. I was trying to figure out how to save the bottles, which were starting to fill up the house, and my first thought was to make drinking glasses. But washing the glasses made it hard to save the labels. I remembered I loved the aroma of the beer that got me thinking in the first place – it was an apple-brandy beer – and had a lightbulb moment to make the bottles hold a candle the scent of the beer. How do you develop the candle’s scent? Of course, the first task is drinking the beer – such a hard thing to do. But I don’t use the actual beer to make it. Let’s say I have a bourbon barrel-aged stout: I’d take some chocolate fragrance and some bourbon fragrance because those are the strongest notes I got from drinking the beer, and I’d combine them and mix with the wax. Most of the aromas I have are chocolate for stouts, tropical and/or citrusy for IPAs, the bready-lemon-funky scent for saisons, and bourbon and whiskey for boozy [beers]. I also make custom candles where people will give me the bottle of their favorite beer, and then I pull from a website that’s essentially a dictionary for beers, where people leave tasting and smelling notes. Do all beer styles translate into candles? Most beers do – stouts, fruity beers, lambics, etc. IPAs are great, too. Saisons are a little tricky because they have a malty, bready smell that’s harder to replicate in a candle, but I’ve worked it out pretty well at this point. Do you have any favorites? Local beers always sell great. The seasonal beers go fast, too; the pumpkin beers were a hit in the fall, and then this winter, there are some gingerbread stouts that should be really popular, and I have some bottles of Christmas Bomb! by Prairie Artisan Ales. The 4 Hands Tiki Chocolate Milk Stout is probably my favorite candle to make; it’s like a fresh Almond Joy. How does the upcycle program with Craft Beer Cellar work? If Craft Beer Cellar opens a bottle or does a bottle share in the store, staff save them for me to pick up. It’s a perfect collaboration because I need bottles and they need to get rid of bottles. It keeps the bottles out of the trash or recycling. The good thing about my candles, too, is that you can refill them – my large candles run for $25, but they burn for 170 hours and you can get them refilled for $5. I wanted to have this option because I wanted people to be able to continually enjoy the candle that they bought.

Stock, Broth & Bowl WRITTEN By NANCy STILES

In the winter months, broths and stocks are your secret weapon to create warming soups, ribs, risotto, chili, pot roast and even cocktails. kansas City-based author Jonathan Bender’s Stock, Broth & Bowl organizes the recipes to build in complexity; he helpfully explains tools, techniques and ingredients before you get started. The broth recipes were developed by Alex Pope of Local Pig and Todd Schulte of Uncommon Stock, both based in kansas City. Broth is even used in the recipe for chileatole, a popular drink in Mexico, from Patrick Ryan of Port Fonda in kansas City and Lawrence, kansas. Cocktails are also included, like the Bloody Bull, a take on a Bloody Mary that incorporates beef stock from Justus Drugstore in Smithville, Missouri. Master the recipes in Bender’s book, and it’ll be a snap to stay warm this winter. By Jonathan Bender

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PhotoGraPhy by CheryL waLLer

nourish at home written by sarah kLoePPLe

ST. LOUIS. For many, leftovers can save time, money

and energy. that notion partly inspired holly Cunningham to launch Nourish at Home, a meal-subscription service from her to-go café and market in st. Louis, nourish by hollyberry. Five years ago, Cunningham would often take advantage of her successful catering business, hollyberry Catering, and serve her family leftovers for dinner when she didn’t have time to prepare a quality home-cooked

meal. when her friends expressed their desire to do the same, Cunningham had an idea. “i [first] thought, ‘this is so silly – this is just something i’m doing,’” Cunningham says with a laugh. “i now know there are other families who have the same need.” nourish at home officially launched in october to provide busy families with high-quality meal components using local ingredients. after a summer of trial runs, Cunningham and her team narrowed down three meal plans. wholesome helpings offers a choice of three entrées; standouts include pretzel-encrusted chicken with a honey-mustard glaze and gluten-free Merry’s Mighty Good Meatballs, with ground beef and puréed kale, zucchini, carrots and onions. hearty +

healthy includes two entrées and two sides of fresh vegetables and whole grains. try the edamame succotash that includes corn, sweet peppers and edamame or the southwest quinoa, a blend of quinoa, corn, black beans, lime and cilantro. the third meal plan, Chef’s Choice, is for the adventurous: it includes two entrées, one side and one “chef special,” which is a seasonal creation. all meals are flash-frozen, meaning they’re ready to heat and serve quickly without thawing, and hand-delivered straight to your door either weekly or every other week, available to those in the st. Louis metropolitan area. you can sign up for nourish at home online. 314.835.9196,

artisan products bittersweet artisan truffles st. louis specialty box written by bethany Christo

ST. LOUIS. there’s a sweet surprise in Bittersweet Artisan Truffles’

st. Louis specialty box. it’s filled with four locally inspired flavors – gooey butter, Mississippi Mud Coffee roasters espresso, the Cardinal (red velvet) and Fitz’s root beer with billy Goat Chip Co. chips – as well as a seasonal white chocolate-peppermint flavor. Founded by audrey scherrer in 2011, the chocolate company is much more than its 30-plus truffle offerings. there are also dessert sauces, decadent lava cakes and gift sets. scherrer uses locally sourced, antibiotic- and hormone-free cream from ozark Mountain Creamery, as well as premium ingredients like Mexican vanilla. you can purchase items online, and the dessert sauces are available at Fair shares CCsa, Parker’s table and Local harvest Grocery in the st. Louis area.


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dēz nüts

written by sarah kLoePPLe

KANSAS CITY. the idea for Dēz Nüts, a kansas

City-based artisan nut company, sprung from conversations over lunch. Friends Chris oliver, Carmen Chopp and Jacob Lowry joked that someone should start a nut company named for Dr. Dre’s song “Deeez nuuuts” from the 1992 album The Chronic. (Later, the name of the then-popular satirical presidential candidate who called himself Deez nuts was also mentioned.) now, Dēz nüts offers a handful (literally) of nut varieties; a standout includes its best-selling barbecue almonds dubbed smokey sweet kC, an homage to the city’s barbecue heritage. try the Mochadamias, chocolate- and coffee-covered macadamia nuts. they’re baked with a housemade coffee syrup and a cacao powder glaze. the best way to eat them? “Personally, i’d take the Mochadamias and put them on vanilla ice cream,” oliver says. Dēz nüts are available online and through retailers including Made in kansas City in overland Park, kansas, and Delaney & Loew in Lawrence, kansas.


Photo by JaCkLyn Meyer

Photo Courtesy Deez nuts

visit our coffee Bar and roastery

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Bissinger’s Handcrafted Chocolatier Christmas Classic Collection, $46 Bissinger’s signature confections are made in small batches by expert chocolatiers, and you can taste the craftsmanship and passion in every indulgent chocolatey bite.

Intaglia Home & Garden Monogrammed Cheese Board, $32 Treat your favorite hosts and hostesses to gorgeous personalized cheese boards made with wood and marble this holiday season. 314.925.8800,

Moab Provisions Holiday Gift Box, $34.99 The Mother of All Beef sampler pack is filled with premium, all-natural beef jerky in Original, Teriyaki, Peppered and Kickin’ Heat flavors and two best-selling, all-natural, small-batch seasonings: Maple-Bacon and Orange-Chipotle. Shipping is free.


holiday The Farmer’s House Corn Relish, $5.95 Brighten up cold winter days with a burst of summer flavor with The Farmer’s House’s sweet-and-savory corn relish, a locally made condiment (and perfect burger topping). 913.283.8402,

Montelle Winery Holiday Sampler Pack, $67.51 The sampler pack from Montelle Winery includes six award-winning wines ideal to pair with holiday fare. You can also personalize the pack with custom labels: a perfect gift for the wine lovers in your life. 636.228.4464, 50

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gift guide A collection of food-and-drink gifts perfect for the home cooks and wine enthusiasts on your holiday shopping list.

NHB KnifeWorks PARING KNIFE WITH CUSTOM PATINA, HANDCRAFTED STROP AND WHETSTONE At-home chefs will love this artisan-made paring knife (starting at $120) shown with handcrafted strop (starting at $55) and whetstone (starting at $45), available only at NHB KnifeWorks. 314.776.3800,

Augusta Winery 2004 Vintage Norton Jeroboam, $98.94 Pour a cup (or two) of good cheer with the Jeroboam bottle, which is equivalent to four standard-sized wine bottles. Supply is limited for the 2004 vintage (wooden box is included). 636.228.4301,

Montelio Winery Unique Wines Sourced from Italy’s most famous growing region for Pinot Noir, Montelio Winery’s exceptional red wines will perfectly complement your holiday feast. Find at your favorite local independent wine retailer.

Ronnoco coffee Iced Coffee Home Brew Kit, $29.95 Perfect for the coffee lovers on your list, Ronnoco’s Iced Coffee Home Brew Kit includes a Clever Dripper brewer, filters, six Black Ice coffee packets and a Mason jar. 314.371.5050,

Kakao Chocolate Gift Basket Kakao Chocolate uses only the finest all-natural ingredients to make its hand-dipped chocolates and specialty confections – think marshmallow pies – with gift baskets available in multiple sizes. 314.645.4446,

Larder & Cupboard Local Honeycomb Perk up the cheese plate at your holiday party with a taste of something unexpected: local honeycomb from Larder & Cupboard. 314.300.8995,


holiday Craft Beer Cellar 12 Days of Beer Gift Box, $40 The 12 Days of Beer gift box at Craft Beer Cellar is a beer-lovers dream, filled with a dozen hand-picked, limited-release brews in a variety of flavors and styles. 314.222.2444,

Eckert’s Assorted Jams, Butters and Baking Mixes This holiday season, share local and seasonal flavor with Eckert’s best-selling products, including from-scratch pumpkin butter, pancake mix, apple syrup and blackberry jam. 800.745.0513,

gift guide

Christopher’s Snowflake Mug, $15

A collection of food-and-drink gifts perfect for the home cooks and wine enthusiasts on your holiday shopping list.

Stay warm and cozy this winter with a festive mug from Christopher’s, the St. Louis-area’s premier gift shop. With an array of specialty products, there’s something for everyone.

Bottle Cellars Slate Cheese Board, $18

Vita Craft Commercial 10-inch Deep Pan and Cover, $199

The experts at Bottle Cellars have all of your holiday wine, whiskey, craft beer, artisan food and home-accessory needs covered, including this chic and party perfect slate cheese board. 314.846.5100,


Unwrapping Vita Craft’s gorgeous cookware is sure to overjoy any at-home chef. The 10-inch deep pan and cover will last forever, too, as it comes with a lifetime warranty. 913.631.6265, Inspired Local Food Culture

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Take your appliances for a visual test-drive. See every Sub-Zero and Wolf product in its natural environment at The Living Kitchen. Jump-start your plans for a new kitchen. Get hands-on with the complete line of Sub-Zero and Wolf products as you move from one full-scale kitchen vignette to the next. Once you’ve been inspired by all that your new kitchen can be, our specialists will help you turn your dreams into a reality.

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1694 Larkin Williams Road Fenton, MO 63026 636-349-4946

Additional Location: 1660 Bryan Road | O’Fallon, MO 63368 | 636-244-3844

season's eatings

Meet your new favorite holiday hostess gift: citrus-spice marinated angel-hair cheese with olives on p. 56. photography by jennifer silverberg

healthy appetite

Potato Crostini Bites sToRy, ReCIPe AND PhoTogRAPhy By sheRRIe CAsTellANo

Potato Crostini Bites with Beets and Fennel If you’re making the crostini for a holiday party and are short on stovetop space, you can roast the beets instead of sautéing them. yIelDs | 10 to 12 bites |

2 3 1 1 3 ¼ ¼

medium russet potatoes Tbsp olive oil, divided sea salt, to taste freshly ground black pepper, to taste clove garlic, peeled and minced Tbsp balsamic vinegar medium red beets, leaves removed, scrubbed, small dice cup blue cheese crumbles (to serve) cup chopped fennel fronds (to serve)

| preparation | Preheat oven to 400°F, and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. scrub potatoes, pat dry and peel if desired. Using either a mandolin or very sharp knife, cut into thin medallions or lengthwise slices, approximately ¹⁄₁₆ inch thick. In a large mixing bowl, toss potatoes in 1 teaspoon olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and lay on prepared baking sheet in a single layer. Roast in oven for 10 to 15 minutes on each side, or until lightly brown and crispy. Remove from oven, tent with aluminum foil to keep warm and set aside. In a medium sauté pan over low heat, heat remaining oil. Add garlic, and cook 1 minute. Increase heat to medium, and add balsamic vinegar while scraping any brown bits off bottom of pan. Add beets, stir and sauté for about 15 minutes more, or until beets are tender. If pan becomes too dry, add a touch of water as needed.

| to serve | layer each potato crisp with 1 or 2 tablespoons sautéed beets, 1 teaspoon blue cheese and a sprinkle of fennel fronds, and season with salt and pepper. serve.


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with Beets and Fennel

In last month’s issue of Feast, I shared a recipe for soup made with slow-roasted and then puréed golden beets. Although autumnal in color and mild in flavor, I wrote that beets are somewhat controversial – in my experience, people either love them or hate them. Personally, I’m a huge fan of beets, especially red varieties.

Beyond their health benefits, beets are simply delicious. I eat beets raw in smoothies, juices and salads, and I cook them in a variety of ways, from roasting to steaming. The following crostini recipe calls for a sautéing method that comes together fairly quickly. As a rule of thumb, the smaller you dice the beets, the less time they’ll take to cook.

Red beets are an affordable, hearty and abundant root vegetable. They’re incredibly easy to grow in nearly all seasons, as well. Beets are high in vitamin C and help keep our immune systems strong; they’re also powerful detoxifiers.

The colors in this party-perfect appetizer are bright and festive without overdoing it. If you can’t find fennel fronds – the thin leaves on top of fennel bulbs – dill makes a great substitution.

Sherrie Castellano is a health coach, photographer and private chef based in St. Louis. She writes and photographs the seasonally inspired vegetarian and gluten-free blog With Food + Love. She has contributed work to Driftless Magazine, Vegetarian Times, go gluten-Free Magazine, Food52 and Urban Outfitters, among others. You can find her hanging with her aviation-enthusiast husband, sipping Earl Grey tea, green juice and/or bourbon.

Celebrate your Holidays Turkish Style! Enjoy Our Award Winning Lunch, Dinner with Chef Mehmet© s Whole Roasted Lamb, and Sunday Brunch Menu With Our Delicious Boozy Breakfast Cocktails.

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Gallagher© s Restaurant Serving the best fried chicken, house-ground burgers and premium steaks for over a decade! • 2016 Voted #1 BEST BURGER - by St. Louis Magazine Readers • 2016 Ian Froeb's Selected STL Top 100 Restaurant in St. Louis • 2015 & 2016 Voted #1 BEST FRIED CHICKEN by St. Louis Post-Dispatch & RFT Readers 114 W. Mill St. • Waterloo, IL • 618.939.9933 • NEW LOCATION AND NEW OIL!

An Oil & Vinegar Emporium Di Olivas brings you about 2 dozen of the world' s freshest olive oils and about 2 dozen varieties of balsamic vinegar. We personally participated in the harvesting of new oil now available.. The current West County and St. Charles stores will soon be joined by a third location in the Central West End. Shop with us for your gourmet salt, pasta, sugar, and seasoning needs as well as olive oil based skin care items NEW PRODUCTS from the FANCY FOOD SHOW (FM1216)

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mystery shopper

Meet: Mshallaleh story and recipe by shannon weber photography by jennifer silverberg

Citrus-spiCe Marinated angel-Hair CHeese witH Olives To make smaller jars to give as gifts, divide cheese and olives between two 16-oz jars and use two smaller sprigs of rosemary. Marinated cheese will keep in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. serves | 8 |

2 1½ 1½ 2 ½ ¼

8 to 9

¾ to 1 1

tsp whole cumin seeds tsp whole fennel seeds cups olive oil, plus more as needed cloves garlic, peeled and crushed tsp whole coriander seeds tsp chile flakes zest from 1 medium orange, peeled in large strips zest and juice from 1 lemon, zest peeled in thin strips, juice strained to remove seeds oz room-temperature angel-hair cheese (mshallaleh) cup pitted Kalamata olives large sprig fresh rosemary

| preparation | in a small stainless steel skillet over medium heat, add cumin and fennel seeds. toast seeds, stirring frequently and shaking pan, until seeds are fragrant and toasted; set aside. in a small, deep saucepan over medium heat, heat olive oil and garlic. when oil begins to bubble around cloves, reduce heat to medium-low, and heat for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. remove from heat, add coriander seeds, chile flakes, orange and lemon zest, lemon juice, and toasted cumin and fennel seeds; stir to combine, and set aside to cool to room temperature. break apart braid of angel-hair cheese, using your fingers to separate into individual strands between ₁⁄8 - and ¼-inch thickness. layer cheese into canning jar, alternating with Kalamata olives, lightly packing them in as you go, leaving a little room at top. slip rosemary sprig vertically down 1 side of jar. once oil mixture has cooled, pour slowly into jar. scrape solids into jar, seal lid and shake a few times to distribute, adding more oil as needed to completely cover cheese. shake again, and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours.

Get ready for total cheese-plate domination with the best block you’ve never heard of: mshallaleh. What Is It? Angel-hair cheese – also known as tressé or mshallaleh, is a semisoft Armenian cheese that can be made from cow, goat or sheep’s milk. salty and white, the cheese contains kalonji (nigella seeds) and mahleb (ground black-cherry pits), which infuse it with contrasting savory and sweet undertones of oregano, pepper, almond and sour cherry. the real drama of mshallaleh is in the presentation: the cheese is hand-pulled to form long strands, then braided and twisted into thick, yarnlike knots. What Do I Do WIth It? think of angel-hair cheese as you would mozzarella: a

naturally stringy, relatively mild cheese that works just as well at room temperature as it does melted. Unfurling it is easier at room temperature. Begin by unwinding the large twist, and then use your fingers to ease the “threads” apart into long ropes. separated, the strands can be used piled into a mezze of nuts, olives and meat; stuffed into a pita filled with vegetables; or broiled on bread for a quick snack. marinating the cheese is a festive way to showcase mshallaleh’s tangled beauty, and it makes a practical party appetizer or hostess gift. stack the cheese in jars with olives, citrus and spices, tag it with serving suggestions; and gift to your friends for the coolest holiday cheese plates around. to serve it at parties, heap hummus into a large bowl and top with marinated angel-hair cheese and olives alongside slices of toasted country bread or pita bread.

Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog, and her work has appeared on websites such as Bon Appétit Appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes that the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and life.

best wishes scholarship recipients As the time approaches for final exams at colleges and universities, Missouri Restaurant Association extends our best wishes for success to the outstanding group of 54 students currently receiving an MRA scholarship. It is MRA’s distinct honor to help you along the way.


Never underestimate the generosity of a Missouri Restaurant Association partner restaurant. So much of MRA’s mission of service is focused on helping people.




in scholarship funds were awarded in


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Lou Fusz Subaru

is the key to exceptional service. • Exceptional Customer Service • Huge Selection and Savings • Proud Supporter of the Humane Society of Missouri

Lou Fusz Subaru Creve Coeur 10329 Old Olive Street St. Louis, MO 63141 314-252-0850 Inspired Local Food Culture

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Menu options

Cherries Jubilee Pavlova story and recipe by Gabrielle deMichele photoGraphy by jennifer silverberG

Cherries Jubilee Pavlova serves | 8 to 10 |

Meringue 10 fresh egg whites 2 cups superfine or powdered sugar 4 Tbsp cocoa powder 1 tsp balsamic vinegar ₁⁄8 tsp salt 4 oz shaved bittersweet chocolate ½ cup water Cherry FlaMbé 3 cups pitted dark sweet cherries ½ cup 80-proof rum 2 cups heavy cream 2 Tbsp superfine or powdered sugar ½ tsp vanilla 4 Tbsp brown sugar

| preparation – meringue | preheat oven to 325°f. line a baking sheet with parchment paper. trace 2 8-inch circles on paper, and flip paper over on sheet. in a mixing bowl, beat egg whites using an electric mixer until peaks form that curl slightly, and beat in sugar, ¼ cup at a time, until meringue is stiff and shiny. Gently fold cocoa, vinegar, salt and chocolate into egg whites. secure parchment to baking sheet with a dab of meringue. Mound half of meringue within 1 circle, smoothing sides and top with a spatula; repeat with second circle. transfer meringues to oven, and decrease temperature to 300°f. bake for 75 minutes, until meringue is crisp but has very slight give in middle. turn oven off, and let meringues cool in oven with door ajar.

| preparation – cherry flambé | soak cherries in rum about 45 minutes. remove 1½ cups of cherries from rum, and roughly chop. set aside. leave remaining cherries soaking in rum. in a cold mixing bowl, whip together heavy cream, sugar and vanilla until stiff peaks form. invert 1 meringue onto a large platter; remove parchment. slather half of whipped cream on meringue, and scatter with chopped cherries. top with second meringue. in a large skillet off heat, stir together remaining 1½ cup cherries with rum and brown sugar. turn heat to medium, and cook until sugar dissolves. Using a wand lighter, light mixture, and let burn for a few seconds. carefully swirl pan to distribute alcohol. When flames subside, pour mixture over top of pavlova; add remaining whipped cream. slice, and serve on chilled plates.

Searching for a dramatic dessert to serve friends and family for the holidays? Look no further than Pavlovas, the Australian dessert consisting of a crisp meringue shell filled with freshly whipped cream and fresh fruit. (Aussies typically use kiwi, pineapple or passion fruit, although seasonal berries or cherries also work well.) Named for Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova, the dessert is at once festive and unfussy, making it perfect for holiday parties.

To make the meringue, this recipe calls for superfine sugar or powdered sugar. One of the reasons meringue weeps – or pools liquid – is due to the sugar not dissolving completely, and using one of these sugars ensures your Pavlovas will look and taste their best. Also, meringue and humidity don’t play well together, and meringue won’t hold its shape if traces of fat or egg yolk remain in the bowl. Clean your beaters, whisk and mixing bowl with vinegar between each step so your meringue stays solid.

chef’s tip FlaMbé 101. To create the dramatic effect of a flambé, the liquor you use must be 80 proof (or 40 percent ABV), and it

needs to be warm. Most home cooks aren’t aware that not all the alcohol burns off – traces of it can be left behind. Before you attempt to flambé, or pour rum into the pan, be sure to roll your sleeves up, tie back your hair and turn on your stove’s ventilation hood for safety.

the menu • Creole-Spiced Shrimp Salad • Hush Puppies • Braised Pork Grillards • Cheesy Grits and Collards • Cherries Jubilee Pavlova

learn More. In this class, you’ll learn how to properly and safely flambé at home. You’ll also learn how to make collard greens, a lucky food historically served on New Year’s Day in the American South.

get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., dec. 14 at 6pm at the des Peres, Missouri, location, to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at or call 314.909.1704.



In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Wednesdays at 7pm and Saturdays and Sundays at 6:30pm.




In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19).

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 7pm and Saturdays at 4:30pm.

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8).

Check your local listings to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

BETTER quality, b e t t e r f l av o r , less waste! Schnucks spiral sliced ham, made for us with natural juices, is trimmed to the bone for a flavorful yet lean, tender ham. Plus, it’s slow-smoked with real hickory wood! ©2016Schnucks

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Red VelVet layeR Cake story and recipe by christy augustin photography by cheryl Waller

Red VelVet layeR Cake with CReam Cheese FRosting yields | 1 9-INch cAkE |

cAkE cooking oil spray 5 cups cake flour 2 tsp baking soda 3 Tbsp cocoa powder 4 eggs 3 cups granulated sugar 2 tsp kosher salt 3 cups canola oil 2 tsp apple cider vinegar 2 tsp vanilla extract ¼ cup liquid red food coloring 2 cups buttermilk, divided FRoStINg 3 8-ounce packages room-temperature cream cheese 1½ cups room-temperature unsalted butter 3 cups powdered sugar pinch kosher salt ¼ tsp vanilla extract

| preparation – cake | preheat oven to 375°F. grease 3 9-inch round cake pans with cooking oil spray, and line with parchment paper. in a large bowl, sift next 3 ingredients, and set aside. in the bowl of a stand mixer with whisk attachment, whip eggs, sugar and salt on medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. in a separate bowl, combine oil, vinegar, vanilla and food coloring. With mixer running on medium-low speed, slowly pour oil mixture into egg mixture. on low speed, add a third of flour mixture, alternating with half of buttermilk. repeat, and mix only until combined. divide batter evenly among 3 prepared pans. bake for 25 to 30 minutes. unmold slightly warm layers, and allow to cool to room temperature.

| preparation – frosting | in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat all ingredients on medium speed until smooth. refrigerate 15 minutes to firm slightly. | assembly | using a long serrated knife, trim tops of 3 cake layers, creating a flat surface. spoon a little frosting onto a platter to help anchor cake. place 1 layer in center, and spread with 1¼ cups frosting. repeat with remaining layers, inverting final layer, cut-side down, so the bottom becomes the top. using an offset spatula, spread a thin layer of frosting over top and sides of cake. chill for 15 to 20 minutes. Frost cake with remaining icing. refrigerate for 2 hours before serving.

with Cream Cheese Frosting

Frosting a layer cake can be scary and stressful – there’s no denying it. Even trained pastry chefs have anxiety about icing cakes when it’s not one of their daily duties. I will let you in on a little-known secret, though: We practice what’s called a crumb coat. It’s essentially a practice run, where a thin layer of icing is spread onto the outside of a cake to catch all of the messy crumbs. You then place the cake in the fridge or freezer to set and after that, icing the cake is, well, a piece of cake. An offset metal spatula is an inexpensive investment and will ensure your icing looks its very best, every time.

Red velvet cake, a staple dessert in the South, is also a festive last bite for your holiday meal. I hadn’t perfected my recipe for the cake until recently; this red velvet layer cake is a favorite of mine and my business partner, Nancy. We both have more than a decade of experience as pastry chefs, but neither of us had ever come across the perfect red velvet cake recipe until we combined the best of both of ours. Bake the cake in a 9-inch cake pan for a traditional presentation, although this recipe will also yield threedozen cupcakes or one large Bundt cake.

Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. See more at




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| 67 |

happy challah days

| 78 |

good luck

| 85 |

the tamale women

| 92 |

cups of good cheer

Eight recipes that celebrate one family’s interfaith holiday traditions, from peppermint rugelach and gingerbread mandelbrot to a latke bar with creative and festive toppings Seven foods from around the world to help ring in a very happy and prosperous new year A Christmas tradition in Mexico, tamales are becoming a year-round favorite in Kansas City thanks to the women behind The Tamale Kitchen Six warm cocktails that carry on the Rockwellian holiday tradition of boozy drinks made on the stove and served by the fire

phoTo of ApplE fRiTTER CoffEECAKE (p. 75) by AMAndA wilEnS

Schedule A conSultAtion Serving All MiSSouri regionS

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IN THE HEART OF SOULARD 2001 MENARD 314-833-6686 www.dukesinsoulard 66

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one e t , a r tions leb i e d c a r t at iday s th l e o p i h c r and re ith a t h f c h e ba r a g k i e l t E t e a n g l y’s i o a t ru famil eppermin elbrot t oppings t p nd from read ma stive e f rb nd ns ginge reative a y amanda WilE c yb with photograph y an E s sa

any of my most cherished holiday memories are associated with food. my parents came from very different backgrounds – my mother was raised Christian, and my father was raised Jewish – and so, for me, the holidays have always been a mixture of celebrating hanukkah and Christmas, and we make food that incorporates the best of both traditions. luckily i got to learn the foundations of Jewish cooking from a great teacher, my grandma bette, my dad’s mother. so many of my cooking memories as a child


involve her in one way or another. Whether she was teaching me how to shape a matzo ball or letting me know my apple pie was overspiced, grandma always had an opinion about my cooking. her recipes were classics from her culture, carried down from generation to generation. she would handwrite her recipes on whatever paper she could find, and many have been stained with ingredients over the years. she passed away five years ago, and now i hold her recipes even closer to me, like little mementos that remind me of her each time i cook.

grandma was born and raised in a small Jewish neighborhood in Chicago, illinois. When she was a young girl, the people in her community didn’t have a lot of money, and many of their family members still hadn’t moved to america, so neighbors would celebrate the holidays together. Each family prepared special holiday dishes for the occasion. during this time my grandma gathered some of her favorite holiday recipes: liver, brisket, latkes, challah and more. (Continued on p. 68)

My grandma had such a passion for food. Whether it was indulging when we went out to eat or spending full days cooking in her kitchen, nothing else gave her the same happiness. For as long as I can remember, every holiday it was Grandma, my mom and me in the kitchen. When Grandma came over to cook, she always strategically placed me on the counter so I wasn’t quite close enough to touch the stove. When I would inch my way over to see what she was up to, she would scold me and threaten to finish cooking without me, which would have been the worst punishment. Today, my favorite part of the holiday season is still decorating cookies with my family at the kitchen table or preparing dishes for holiday dinners for my loved ones to enjoy.

Challah is a staple for most Jewish meals and holidays, minus those involving unleavened bread. It’s traditionally a white, plaited bread that’s broken to celebrate the Sabbath or holidays. This recipe is my grandma’s, plus my addition of honey and rosemary to add wintry flavor to your holiday table. serves | 10 |

4 3 1 2 ½ ½ ¼ ¹⁄3 3 1 1 1

cups all-purpose flour, more for flouring surface Tbsp granulated sugar Tbsp instant dry yeast tsp salt cup lukewarm water (about 105ºF) cup room-temperature milk cup honey cup olive oil, more for greasing bowl eggs, divided Tbsp water tsp kosher salt sprig rosemary

| preparation | In the bowl of a stand mixer with the dough-hook attachment on low speed, mix flour, sugar, yeast and salt. Add lukewarm water, milk, honey, oil and 2 eggs, continuing to mix on low speed for about 1 minute. Increase speed to medium until dough forms a ball. Lightly grease a large mixing bowl, and transfer dough to bowl. Lay a damp cloth over top of bowl. Allow dough to rise at room temperature for about 1 hour. Lay dough on a floured work surface. Divide dough into 3 separate pieces. roll each piece into a log, about 1½ inches wide and 12 inches long. Pinch top of each piece together, and seal, leaving the bottom ends untouched. Use these 3 pieces of dough to braid bread. At end of braid, cinch the ends together. Leave in a long loaf, or spin loaf into a circle. Cover loaf with a damp towel. Let rise for another hour. Preheat oven to 350°F, and line a baking sheet with parchment paper; transfer loaf to sheet. In a small bowl, combine remaining egg and 1 tablespoon water to make an egg wash. Brush egg wash onto loaf, and sprinkle kosher salt and rosemary over top; transfer loaf to oven. Bake until golden brown, 40 to 50 minutes. remove from oven, and place on a cooling rack before serving. 68

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When I cooked with Grandma, my jobs were always tedious and simple, but as a kid, I just loved being included. When we made latkes, I was tasked with sitting in a chair and shaping the shredded potatoes into little balls. When we made matzo balls, my job was to sit there and form the dough into little balls. Before long, I was convinced that Jewish cooking was based around making all food into little balls – a notion my grandma quickly dismissed with her famous sass. For the days and nights of Hanukkah, we would make different treats to celebrate the holidays. Often my sisters and I would overindulge in those little coin-shaped pieces of chocolate, called gelt, leaving behind piles of golden wrappers in our wake. sometimes we would convince Grandma to bake with us and make mandelbrot, known as mandel bread in english-speaking countries, which is similar to biscotti. Other than eating treats and spinning the dreidel again and again, singing over the menorah as it was lit each evening is what really made Hanukkah feel special. These days, we light the menorah after dinner, usually as the sun is setting. We turn out all the lights in the room so the menorah is the only thing illuminated. The blessing was our favorite part. The end of the blessing translates to “light the lights of Hanukkah,” and so before we sang the blessing, my father would ask us girls, “Who’s ready to light the lights?” My sister would respond “y-ight the y-ights!” Her inability to pronounce the letter “L” as a child created a tradition for our family; we still refer to the blessing as “y-ight the y-ights” today. When I was 7 years old, my family, including Grandma, moved from the Chicago area to a town outside of sacramento, California. We drove a southern route, 2,854 miles from Chicago to sacramento, for about two weeks in our rv; it was late December, and my parents thought it would be a fun adventure for our family to travel across the country together. Grandma didn’t love the idea of trekking across the country in a motor home and decided to fly and meet us in California. My family celebrated both Hanukkah and Christmas in the rv that year, at a campground in New Mexico. I remember watching cartoons in spanish before singing the blessing and lighting the menorah. This was one of the only holiday seasons we celebrated without Grandma. (Continued on p. 70)

Latkes are a staple for Hanukkah – frying food in oil represents and celebrates the eight days and nights that the oil lasted for the Maccabees, when there was only enough oil to last one day. In my family we always got creative with toppings for latkes: Applesauce and sour cream are traditional, but we would make eggs or salsa for ours. I’ve taken that a step further with toppings like spicy cilantro-lime-avocado sauce, sunny-side-up eggs and a dip with cream cheese, Greek yogurt and fresh dill. serves | 6 |

Spicy cilantro-lime-avocado Sauce 2 avocados, sliced ²⁄3 cup Greek-style yogurt 2 Tbsp adobo sauce juice of 3 limes 1 tsp cumin 1 tsp paprika salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 cups destemmed fresh cilantro latkeS 2 lbs russet potatoes, grated cold water ½ yellow onion ½ cup matzo meal* 1 egg salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 cup olive oil *Matzo meal is crumbled fine matzo. You can buy it at some grocery stores, or you can make it at home by processing matzo. One piece of matzo yields about ½ cup matzo meal. toppingS spicy cilantro-lime-avocado sauce (recipe below) applesauce sour cream sunny-side-up eggs salsa cream-cheese sauce (combine ½ cup cream cheese, ½ cup Greek-style yogurt and 2 Tbsp small-diced fresh dill) with cured salmon

| preparation – spicy cilantro-lime-avocado sauce | In the bowl of a food processor, add all ingredients, and process until thoroughly combined and smooth. Use a rubber spatula to scrape sides of bowl if ingredients are sticking. Pour into a bowl; refrigerate until ready to serve.

| preparation – latkes | In a large bowl, place grated potatoes and cold water, and cover with a kitchen towel. Let rest for 10 minutes. Drain potatoes, squeezing them dry with a clean towel or cheesecloth to remove all liquid. In the bowl of a food processor, blend onion until a paste forms. In a large bowl, mix dried potato shreds (including remaining starch left in cheesecloth) with onion paste. Add matzo meal, egg, salt and pepper. Use an ice cream scoop to portion potato mixture, and then flatten each into discs; each should be about the size of your palm. Before frying latkes, prepare a cooling rack with a kitchen towel or paper towels underneath to soak up excess oil. In a skillet over medium heat, heat oil until hot. Place 1 latke in oil to test temperature; you should hear it sizzle but not pop. Cook latkes until golden brown on 1 side, then flip and let cook until golden on other side; each side should take 3 to 4 minutes. remove latkes onto prepared cooling rack. Top latkes with whatever toppings or combination of toppings you desire.

My father’s family had never celebrated Christmas until my parents were married. After my oldest sister was born, my dad’s family started celebrating both holidays as a way to spend more time together. Grandma went big for Christmas. she would playfully argue with my sisters and me that she loved the holiday more than we girls did. On Christmas morning, Mom or Grandma would make matzo brei – or matzy and eggs, as we call it. Matzy and eggs is typically scrambled eggs made with broken up pieces of matzo. some people make it sweet with cinnamon, sugar and vanilla, but we make it savory, served with salsa or giardiniera. Grandma also loved getting Chinese food for dinner on Christmas day because, as she would say, “that’s what Jews do on Christmas.” in reality, i think that going out for Chinese food was something that connected her to her granddaughters and to Chicago. My family lived in the suburbs of Chicago until i was 7, and i can clearly recall spending days in the city with Grandma. We would go shopping, play on Navy Pier or grab a meal; our favorite place was the Chinese restaurant on the first floor of Grandma’s apartment building. We would stuff our faces with General Tso’s chicken, rice and Grandma’s favorite, egg foo young, and fight over who got the best fortune cookie fortune. Today, in her memory, i have combined my family's recipe for matzy and eggs with egg foo young – two of Grandma's favorite holiday meals – for a new Christmas tradition.

To continue celebrating the miracle of the Maccabees' oil, we fry more food – including sufganiyot, or donuts, usually stuffed with jelly. I’m not a big fan of jelly-stuffed donuts, so I decided to make a glaze. These are also baked instead of fried to make them a slightly healthier option. yields | 16 donuts |

sufganiyot ½ cup melted butter, plus more for greasing pan 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for flouring pan ¾ cups granulated sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 3 eggs 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp baking soda 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground ginger ½ tsp ground cardamom ½ tsp ground allspice ½ tsp ground cloves ¼ tsp salt 1¼ cups whole milk glaze 1 cup fresh or frozen cranberries


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4 ¼ ½ ¼ 4

mandarin oranges (split into segments) cup mandarin orange juice* tsp vanilla extract cup maple syrup cups powdered sugar

*You can buy bottled mandarin orange juice or substitute it with the juice of five mandarin oranges.

| preparation – sufganiyot | Preheat oven to 350°F and grease and flour a donut pan. in the bowl of a stand mixer, beat butter on low; add sugar and vanilla. Add 1 egg at a time. in a second bowl, add flour and next 8 ingredients and whisk until mixed. While on low, alternate adding flour mixture and milk to bowl with butter-egg mixture, starting and ending with flour. spoon mixture into pan, and bake for 18 minutes. let cool in pan for 10 minutes, then remove donuts to a cooling rack.

| preparation – glaze | in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, add first 5 ingredients. let mixture cook until it reaches a simmer, 5 to 10 minutes. Transfer mixture to a blender, and purée. strain through a sieve into a large bowl. Add powdered sugar, 1 cup at a time, and whisk until thoroughly combined. dunk donuts into glaze, and then place back onto cooling rack to dry.

When we ate matzy and eggs, Grandma always liked to have everyone sit around the table together and eat; even if you weren’t in the mood for it, everyone had to take at least a few bites before opening presents. And you could always spot Grandma’s gifts right away. she wrapped all of our presents in blue and silver paper or quirky Hanukkah wrapping paper so you knew it was from her. But our favorite part of opening presents was watching Grandma unwrap her gifts. she was always so enthusiastic and would brag about her favorite gifts for days, so it became a bit of a competition to see who could get her the best gift. For a while, nothing could beat her “Oy to the World” holiday sweater. One year, my parents effectively ended the competition: They bought her a record player – which now sits in my living room – and a recovered record of my late grandpa singing a song he had written for Grandma and then sung on the radio. For Grandma, the record and record player brought my grandpa back into her life. For me, the record player will forever connect us. it became our vessel for entertainment while cooking in her kitchen. We listened to our favorite records on it, bonding over our shared love for Frank sinatra and Billie Holiday. And now it’s my way to play music for dinner guests and feel like Grandma’s here with me. (Continued on p. 74)

ew n Matzo brei is a staple in our family for Christmas, as is Chinese food. My grandma’s favorite Chinese dish was egg foo young. This dish combines those two family traditions in an omelet with savory gravy.


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serves | 5 |

gravy 1½ cups vegetable broth 1 tsp granulated sugar 2 Tbsp soy sauce 1 tsp fish sauce 1 tsp white wine ½ Tbsp salt 1 Tbsp chile sauce (optional) 1 tsp cornstarch Omelets 5 large eggs 1 piece matzo, softened in warm water for 45 seconds, drained salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 Tbsp olive oil, divided 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ cup bean sprouts ¼ cup small-diced mushrooms ¼ red bell pepper, small dice 2 green onions, small dice, divided

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| preparation – gravy | In a small saucepan over medium heat, add all ingredients except cornstarch. Once combined and heated, add cornstarch, and whisk together. Let gravy thicken for 5 to 10 minutes, until it reaches your desired thickness, and then remove from heat.

| preparation – omelets | In a large bowl, beat eggs together. Break matzo into bite-sized pieces, add to eggs and season with salt and pepper. set aside. / / 618-210-0335

In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, add 1 tablespoon oil. Add garlic, bean sprouts, mushrooms, bell pepper and green onions (reserving 1 tablespoon for garnish), and sauté for 5 to 7 minutes. Add to egg mixture, and stir to combine. Add remaining oil to pan, and increase heat to high. When oil is hot, spoon egg mixture into pan to form an omelet about 4 inches wide. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until golden brown, and then flip to cook other side, 1 to 2 minutes, until golden brown. serve omelets with gravy, and garnish with green onions.



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Mandelbrot, similar to biscotti, is a crunchy Jewish cookie. Since my family celebrates both Christmas and Hanukkah, this gingerbread take on mandelbrot is the perfect way to celebrate the best of both family traditions. yields | 12 cookies |

Mandelbrot ½ cup room-temperature unsalted butter ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup brown sugar ¼ cup molasses 2 eggs 1 tsp vanilla extract 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 tbsp baking powder 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground cloves 1 tsp ground ginger 2 tbsp coarse sugar icing 1½ cups powdered sugar ¼ cup whole milk 3 tbsp maple syrup 1 tsp vanilla extract

| preparation – mandelbrot | Preheat the oven to 350°F, and line two baking sheets with parchment paper. in the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attachment on low, beat butter and granulated and brown sugars until fluffy. Mix in molasses, eggs and vanilla. Remove bowl from stand mixer, and set aside. in a separate large mixing bowl, add flour, baking powder and spices, and combine with a whisk. With mixer on low, slowly add flour mixture into wet mixture. On prepared baking sheets, form dough into 2 loaves, and sprinkle coarse sugar over top. Transfer baking sheets to oven to bake for 50 minutes. Turn oven off once bread is finished baking. Remove bread from oven and allow to slightly cool to the touch; while still on baking sheets, use a knife to cut each loaf into long slices. Place baking sheets back into oven, and let rest for 25 minutes or until dry.

| preparation – icing | in a large mixing bowl, combine all ingredients. dip mandelbrot into icing, or drizzle on top. Place onto cooling racks to dry. serve.

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Rugelach is a pastry wrapped into a crescent shape and filled with jam or chocolate. To celebrate my interfaith family, I have made a peppermint-chocolate version that captures the flavors I associate with Christmas in a decidedly Jewish treat. For this recipe, it’s best to make your dough one day, or at least three to four hours, in advance of baking. yIeLDS | 64 pastries |

and salt, pulse for about 10 seconds. Add cream cheese and butter; blend until batter becomes crumbly. Add in egg and vanilla, and run processor until dough forms into balls or 1 large piece. Remove dough to a floured surface. Knead dough for 2 to 3 minutes. Form dough into a disc, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours or overnight.

| preparation – filling | In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, add butter and chocolate. Stir until mixture melts and combines. Remove from heat, add peppermint extract, sugar and cocoa powder, and mix until combined and mixture has a grainy texture. Set aside.

Dough 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for flouring surface ¼ tsp salt 1 8-oz package cream cheese, cold and cubed 1 cup cold and cubed unsalted butter 1 egg yolk 1 tsp vanilla extract

| to serve | Preheat oven to 350°F, and prepare baking

Filling 4 Tbsp unsalted butter 1 cup chopped dark chocolate 1 tsp peppermint extract ²⁄3 cup granulated sugar 2 Tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder ¼ cup crushed peppermint pieces powdered sugar egg wash (1 egg and 1 Tbsp water whisked together)

Scoop a quarter of filling, and spread it out across dough. Sprinkle filling with peppermint pieces. Using a pizza cutter, cut dough into 16 equal pieces like a pizza.

| preparation – dough | In a food processor, add flour

sheets with parchment paper. Remove chilled dough to a work surface covered with powdered sugar. Divide dough into 4 pieces. Roll dough out into a circle.

Roll each triangle from thick end to point, as you would roll a croissant. Place each rugelach onto prepared baking sheets. Brush egg wash on each. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes. Serve.

My grandma passed away five years ago, but I still can feel her with us on the big days in our lives: the holidays, my sister’s wedding day and even in day-to-day moments when I hear a bit of her sass coming through in my sisters (or myself). After her passing, it became difficult for my family to celebrate the holidays. It’s hard to recreate the special texture of her matzo balls. And we all feel a sting of pain at Passover because no one can quite rock the napkin-on-the-head look quite like Grandma. (During Passover, the woman of the house says the blessing and must cover her head, and many women, like Grandma, use dinner napkins.) Last year I got the opportunity to travel to Israel. I was excited to travel to a new place, but it was the prospect of learning more about my culture and feeling a closer connection to Grandma that sold me on the trip. The experience was an extreme culture shock in many ways, but the one familiar thing was the food and its importance in Israel. My favorite places were the markets filled with incredible fruits, vegetables, seasonings, grains and, of course, the array of baked goods. Seeing the treats my grandmother loved and being in the country she always wanted to visit made me feel much more connected to her. My trip to Israel also reignited my love for Jewish food. Seeing how many of the dishes were traditionally made inspired me to give my grandma’s recipes new life and add some of my own personality, as well. Instead of classic apple fritters, today I make apple fritter coffeecake in a Bundt pan. I also put a spin on kugel, a traditional egg noodle and pudding dish that can be made sweet or savory, by balling up the ingredients and frying them as you would Italian arancini. Developing these personal takes on foods that connect me to my grandma and my family has been a very special experience, and I look forward to sharing these dishes – and the history of what inspired them – with loved ones for years to come.

| preparation – noodle mixture | In a large sauté pan over medium heat, melt butter. Add onion and garlic, and cook for a few minutes, until fragrant and soft.

Kugel is a traditional noodle and pudding dish that can be made either sweet or savory. As a kid, my job in the kitchen was to help my mom or grandma by balling up donuts, latkes, matzo… the list goes on. In the spirit of that tradition, I’ve balled up kugel into Italian-inspired arancini.

While still in the bag, smash egg noodles until pieces are size of grains of rice. Add egg noodle pieces to sauté pan, and cook until slightly toasted. Pour in wine, and increase heat to medium-high. Keep stirring while noodle pieces absorb liquid. Slowly add vegetable broth and milk, and bring to a simmer. Cover, and let cook on low until noodle pieces are tender and all liquid has been absorbed or evaporated.

SeRveS | 12 to 16 |

Noodle Mixture 2 Tbsp unsalted butter ½ yellow onion, minced 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 package egg noodles ½ cup white wine 2½ cups vegetable broth ¾ cup whole milk

| preparation – filling | Once noodle mixture is cooked, remove from heat to a large mixing bowl. Stir in all ingredients until completely mixed. Cover with a kitchen towel or paper towel, and place in refrigerator to cool for about 4 hours or overnight.

FilliNg 1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese 1 cup grated white Cheddar cheese 1 tsp dried parsley ½ tsp salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

| preparation – coating | In a shallow bowl, add flour, salt and pepper; in another shallow bowl, add beaten eggs; and in a third shallow bowl, add matzo meal. Prepare a plate or baking sheet for coated arancini. Prepare a paper towel-lined plate for fried arancini.

CoatiNg ½ cup all-purpose flour ½ tsp salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 2 eggs, beaten 1 cup matzo meal (or 4 matzo pieces blended in a food processor) olive oil marinara sauce (to serve)

3¾ 1 ½ 1½ 1 1 1¼ 3

Apple fritters are a Hanukkah tradition. Apples hold great meaning to the Jewish people, as they represent a fruitful and sweet life, and they connect with the holiday by being fried in oil. To make them even more decadent, I’ve decided to make this treat into a coffeecake because Grandma was a big coffee drinker and was happy with any treat that accompanied it, and a cake makes any holiday more joyous. yIelDS | 10 sliCes |

Cake 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and chopped juice from ½ lemon 2 cups plus 2 Tbsp granulated sugar, divided 3 tsp ground cinnamon, divided 1½ cups brown sugar 3 cups room-temperature unsalted butter, divided

Use a spoon to create balls of chilled noodle mixture, about 2 inches in diameter each. Dip balls in flour mixture, then egg and then matzo meal, and transfer to prepared plate. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, add 1-inch olive oil. Test oil temperature by placing 1 arancini in skillet. Oil should sizzle but not pop when tested; it should cook for 3 to 5 minutes on each side until coating is golden brown. Remove arancini from skillet using a slotted spoon or tongs to prepared plate. Fry remaining arancini. Serve with marinara sauce.

cups all-purpose flour, divided tsp ground nutmeg tsp ground ginger tsp vanilla extract Tbsp baking powder tsp salt cups heavy cream egg whites, beaten until stiff

glaze 1 cup powdered sugar 1 Tbsp heavy cream 1 tsp vanilla extract

| preparation – cake | Preheat oven to 350°F, and grease a Bundt pan. In a large mixing bowl, add apples and lemon juice, and toss with 2 tablespoons sugar and 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Set aside. In another large mixing bowl, combine brown sugar, 1½ cups butter, ¾ cup flour, nutmeg, ginger and 1 teaspoon cinnamon, using a fork to create a crumbly texture. Set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat remaining butter and sugar until fluffy. Add vanilla extract, and stir for 30 seconds. Set aside. In a large mixing bowl, mix remaining flour, baking powder, salt and remaining cinnamon. In alternating additions, starting and ending with dry mixture, add dry ingredients and wet to mixing bowl. Stir until smooth. Using a silicone spatula, gently fold and mix in beaten egg whites. Pour about half of cake mixture into Bundt pan, and then layer about half of apple mixture inside pan and half of brown sugar mixture; use a spoon to combine. Add remaining cake batter, brown sugar mixture and apples, and swirl again with a spoon. Bake for 60 to 70 minutes or until a cake tester comes out clean and cake doesn’t jiggle. Allow to cool on a cooling rack before glazing.

| preparation – glaze | In a large bowl, combine all ingredients. Pour over cooled cake, and serve. Inspired Local Food Culture

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ost “lucky” foods represent one of three signs of prosperity: money, progress or a long life. For thousands of years, people across the globe have eaten foods that represent these coveted tenets on New Year’s Day. Ancient Romans ate lentils, which resembled coins, for a lucky year ahead, and in parts of Italy, people still do so today. Pork and fish represent progress in many cultures as pigs forage forward, looking ahead, while fish swim forward in schools. In Germany, the long shreds of cabbage used to make sauerkraut represent long life, as do soba noodles in Japan.

Seven foodS to helP ring in a very haPPy and ProSPerouS new year

Whether or not you believe in luck – or lucky foods – you’re sure to enjoy the following seven dishes, each highlighting a different ingredient that might just bring you good fortune in 2017.

WrITTen by LIz MILLer And nAnCy STILeS

Pork Belly At Renée Kelly’s Harvest, equal parts pink, black and white peppercorns are used in place of ¼ cup of black pepper in the rub. Recipe by Renée Kelly, chef-owneR, Renée Kelly’s haRvest

it’s a German tradition to eat pork in anticipation of the new year: pigs forage forward, unlike chickens and turkeys that scratch backward. pigs are also hefty, a sign of prosperity. in German and pennsylvania Dutch culture, pork is usually served with sauerkraut (the long shreds of cabbage signify a long life), but chef-owner Renée Kelly of Renée Kelly’s harvest in shawnee Mission, Kansas, upgrades traditional pork using a “low-maintenance” pork belly recipe paired with cheddar grits. Kelly says to purchase a skin-on, center-cut pork belly (in the Kansas city area, she recommends broadway butcher shop in westport, bichelmeyer Meats in armourdale, Kansas, or online at and to buy the leanest-cut piece. “think of it like uncured, uncut bacon – it will have a thin line of skin, velvety ribbons of fat and beautiful pink meat, layered together,” she says. “at harvest, we love to serve our belly with cheddar grits. between the flavorful and crisp pork belly and the soft cheddar grits, i find it to be, texturally, above and beyond satisfying.” –N.S. 913.631.4100, photo by williaM hess

Check out for Kelly’s recipe for pork belly with Cheddar grits.



2 2 ¼ ¼ 3 4 2 3 2 8 to 12 2 2 6 6 4 1

cups kosher salt cups brown sugar cup paprika cup freshly ground black pepper Tbsp crushed coriander seeds star anise, crushed Tbsp chile powder Tbsp onion powder Tbsp garlic powder lbs skin-on, center-cut pork belly large yellow onions, large dice carrots celery ribs bottles IPA beer cloves garlic, peeled and crushed bunch fresh thyme

| preparation | in a large bowl, combine first 9 ingredients. Using a fork, poke holes in pork belly skin. Rub meat with an excess of spice rub, leaving a ¼-inch crust. place on a pan with a roasting rack, skin-side up, refrigerate and allow to rest for at least 8 hours or overnight. wash rub off pork belly, and pat dry. allow to air-dry for 1 hour. preheat oven to 350°f. place pork belly skin-side down in a cold, large, oven-safe roasting pan on stovetop, and turn on medium heat. allow skin to crisp and fat to render slowly, 18 to 25 minutes. flip, and sear meat until caramelized, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove belly and set aside. add onion, carrots and celery, and caramelize for 8 minutes. add beer, and scrape any bits stuck to pan; add garlic and thyme. add pork belly back in, skin-side down, and fill pan with water until liquid reaches three-quarters up sides of pork belly. cover with lid or foil, and place in oven for 1 hour. flip belly so it’s skin-side up, cover and braise for an additional 3 hours or until tender. Remove pork belly from pan, strain and reserve juices. place pork in a clean pan, and let cool for 1 hour. once cool, place another pan on top of pork, and add canned goods to pan to weigh it down. Refrigerate, rest and press for 8 hours. preheat oven to 450°f. in a medium pot, heat reserved pork belly juices, and reduce by a third. Remove weights from belly after 8 hours in refrigerator, and cut pork into 4 portions. heat a medium, oven-safe pan over high heat; sear pork belly, skin-side down, 1 to 2 minutes. Divide grits onto 4 plates, and top with pork belly and mushrooms. spoon reduced braising liquid over top, and serve.

Cold Green-Tea Soba noodleS wiTh Tofu Green-tea soba noodles, sesame oil and pickled red ginger can be purchased at most international grocery stores. reCIpe BY CHrISTIne MeYer And MICHAeL MILLer, Co-oWnerS, KoUnTer KULTUre And KITCHen KULTUre ServeS

|2| 2 1

Thin, flat and grayish-brown, soba noodles are made of buckwheat and wheat flours. In Japan, where they have been served since about 10,000 B.C., extra-long soba noodles are considered lucky harbingers of a long life – but there’s a catch. Instead of chewing the long noodles, you must slurp them whole. At Kitchen Kulture, a prepared-foods company that recently opened a brick-and-mortar store, Kounter Kulture, in St. Louis, owners Michael Miller and Christine Meyer serve a soba noodle grab-and-go dish. “We used green-tea soba noodles because the color makes the local MoFU tofu pop – the green against the white – and there’s a subtle texture and flavor difference… the noodles taste slightly grassy,” Meyer says. –L.M. 314.781.4344, pHoTo BY vIrgInIA HAroLd

1 1 4 2

| preparation | In a sauté pan over medium heat, heat oil. Add tofu, and cook 2 minutes, constantly stirring, until evenly browned. Season to taste with kosher salt, and set aside. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add noodles, stirring often and frequently so noodles don’t stick. Cook 7 to 8 minutes until al dente; drain in a colander. prepare an ice bath; rinse noodles in bath, running fingers through noodles. drain noodles again, and repeat bath and rinse. drain. Let noodles sit out to dry slightly at room temperature, about 10 minutes. Lightly coat with grapeseed oil, mixing well to coat noodles evenly. Mix noodles with remaining ingredients. Before serving, drizzle with toasted sesame oil, and garnish with pickled red ginger.

Whole Fish

Fırında Balık Buğulama Yildiz prefers branzino, Mediterranean sea bass or grouper, but any fish will work with this preparation. reCIpe BY MeHMeT YILdIz, Co-oWner-CHeF, AYA SoFIA ServeS

2 1 2 2 2 1 ½ 6 2 3 1 1 1 4 ½


lb whole fresh fish, cleaned, gutted, scales removed tsp sea salt medium potatoes, boiled, skinned and cut into ½-inch medallions medium carrots, sliced into ¼-inch medallions medium tomatoes, skinned, 1-inch dice medium red onion, julienned lemon, sliced into ¼-inch medallions, plus more for garnish cloves garlic, smashed sprigs parsley, chopped bay leaves tsp black peppercorns Tbsp all-purpose flour cup water juice of ½ lemon oz olive oil stick unsalted butter, sliced into pats

Fish are lucky – very lucky. First, their scales resemble coins. Secondly, they travel in schools, which represents prosperity; last, they swim forward, indicating progress. But that’s not why Mehmet Yildiz, chef and co-owner of Aya Sofia, which serves Turkish, Mediterranean and Lebanese fare in St. Louis, cooks whole fish. Yildiz grew up in western Turkey, near the Aegean Sea, where fresh fish was readily available. He also prefers to cook fish whole because they are moister than fillets.

| preparation | preheat oven to 375°F. rub fish skin with salt. In a baking pan large enough to hold fish, place potatoes on bottom followed by carrots, tomato and onion. place sliced lemon atop vegetables, and place fish on lemons. Scatter garlic around fish and vegetables; scatter parsley, bay leaves and peppercorns around fish. In a small bowl, mix flour, water and lemon juice, and pour only over vegetables. generously cover fish and vegetables with oil. Cover baking pan with foil or lid, and cook 30 to 45 minutes, depending on size of fish. remove from oven, and place pats of butter on fish. Transfer fish to a platter, and surround with vegetables. pour any remaining liquid from baking pan over fish, and garnish with remaining lemon medallions.

Tbsp grapeseed oil, plus more to coat noodles block extra-firm tofu, cut into small cubes kosher salt, to taste 8-oz package green-tea soba noodles bunch green onions, thinly sliced oz thinly sliced shiitake mushrooms Tbsp toasted sesame seeds toasted sesame oil (for garnish) pickled red ginger (for garnish)

“In Turkey, everyone eats whatever fish is in season,” says his wife, Alicia Aboussie-Yildiz, Aya Sofia’s co-owner and managing director. “We are very lucky to have fresh fish flown to us preserved on ice, not frozen, almost the same way we can enjoy the fish fresh out of the sea in Turkey. In our restaurant, Mehmet prepares fresh, whole, grilled fish six days a week.” Yildiz says the best way to cook whole fish is in a simple preparation: Let the ingredients shine, and be sure to not overcook it. –N.S. 314.645.9919, pHoTo BY vIrgInIA HAroLd Inspired Local Food Culture

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Collard Greens there’s a straightforward reason that people across the world cook greens on new year’s day: the leaves resemble money – therefore good fortune in the year ahead. in the american south, collard greens are often braised and served fall-apart tender. bryan Maness, chef-owner of the ozark Mountain biscuit co. food truck based in columbia, Missouri, serves simmered collard greens in a variety of dishes. Maness’ recipe isn’t made with a ham hock or pork shank, which is traditionally how southern collards are prepared – although he says his grandmother Ramona sue’s version called for either ham hock or pig’s feet. “ham or pork certainly add a complexity of flavor to the greens, but my use of butter, garlic and onions [imparts] a similar flavor profile,” Maness says. “fresh collard greens are prized during the winter months when mild southern days and cool nights extend the growing season. hardy collards thrive in these conditions, and the chilly nights intensify the richness of the flavor, color and texture of the greens. their abundance during winter has led to the tradition of southerners consuming collard greens on new year’s day, hoping to bring financial prosperity in the new year.” –L.M. 573.999.9323, photo by aaRon ottis

Hoppin’ JoHn “I get caught up in putting bacon in every single thing I make, so we wanted to use another kind of smoked pork product in the hoppin’ john, and the andouille seemed like it would be really tasty,” Lewis says. Recipe by Rick lewis, chef-owneR, southeRn seRves rice

4 2 3 2

| 10 to 15 | cups chicken stock Tbsp butter bay leaves sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste cups Carolina Gold rice

Black-eyed Peas

1 Tbsp butter 1 Tbsp olive oil 1 smoked ham hock, 1 pork shank, ½-lb bacon or ½-lb andouille sausage ½ cup diced onion ½ cup diced bell pepper ¼ cup diced celery 2 Tbsp minced garlic ½ cup diced San Marzano canned tomatoes 1 lb dry black-eyed peas, soaked overnight and drained 1 quart chicken or pork stock 2 bay leaves sea salt


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freshly ground black pepper, to taste ground cayenne pepper, to taste ½ cup equal parts chopped parsley, thyme, rosemary and basil ¼ cup thinly sliced green onions hot sauce, to taste Worcestershire sauce, to taste

| preparation – rice | in a large pot with a lid over high heat, bring stock, butter and bay leaves to a boil, and season with salt and pepper. stir in rice, reduce heat to medium, cover with lid and cook rice until steamed and all liquid has evaporated, 10 to 15 minutes. set aside, and keep warm until ready to serve. | preparation – black- eyed peas | in a saucepan over medium-high heat, melt butter and add oil. add smoked pork (or pork shank, bacon or sausage), and brown, 5 minutes. add vegetables, garlic and tomatoes, and cook until tender, 5 minutes. add black-eyed peas, stock and bay leaves, and bring to a simmer. add salt, pepper and cayenne pepper, and cook peas until tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. once tender, add chopped herbs, green onions, hot sauce and worcestershire sauce. serve black-eyed peas over steamed rice.

Simmered Collard GreenS This recipe will feed a large party, but if you’re cooking for your family, fear not: The greens hold up for a week refrigerated. Recipe by bRyan Maness, chef-owneR, ozaRk Mountain biscuit co. yields

| 12 quarts | 4 yellow onions, diced ½ cup minced garlic 1 lb butter 2 Tbsp mustard powder 2 Tbsp crushed red pepper 2 Tbsp kosher salt 2 Tbsp freshly ground black pepper 1½ cups hot-pepper vinegar 1 cup juice from fire-roasted red peppers 1 quart water 20 lbs collard greens, cut into strips

| preparation | in a stockpot over low heat, sweat onions and garlic in butter. stir in mustard powder, red pepper, salt and pepper. add hot-pepper vinegar, roasted pepper juice and water, and bring to a simmer. increase heat to medium, and add greens in increments, stirring constantly; cook down until all greens fit in pot, about 1 hour. Reduce heat to low, and cook greens, stirring occasionally, until collards are dark green and tender, approximately 1 hour.


In Italy, lentils are traditionally served just after midnight on New Year’s Eve: “There’s a famous dish of cotechino sausage and lentils in Italy – the tradition being that eating the coin-shaped lentils will bring prosperity,” says Italian-born chef Lidia Bastianich, who co-owns Lidia’s Kansas City in the Crossroads Arts District, plus multiple restaurants in New York City. Bastianich often cooks with lentils in soups, salads, side dishes and pasta sauces. “My grandmother grew her own lentils [in Italy], and I remember opening the pods and taking out the lentils,” she says. “The best lentils in Italy come from Castelluccio, in Umbria, which is one of the most magnificent places I have ever been. I visited there in search of these lentils, grown in a valley around the town.” Bastianich says the most important thing to remember is not to overcook lentils, as this causes some of them to completely disintegrate. “If that happens, the best thing to do is make a purée and spread it on bread,” she says. “Lentils are great served with ham; I really like the combination of rice and lentils, [as well].” –N.S. phoTo BY wILLIAM hEss

LentiL Soup RECIpE BY LIDIA BAsTIANICh, Co-owNER, LIDIA’s KANsAs CITY, REpRINTED wITh pERMIssIoN fRoM Lidia’S MaSteriNg the art of itaLiaN CuiSiNe sERvEs

Black-Eyed Peas Black-eyed peas are believed to have been first brought to the U.s. from west Africa, although they are native to China. The small, beige seeds are named for the black circular eye on their curved edges. In the American south, one of the region’s most popular and iconic dishes features black-eyed peas: hoppin’ john. Traditionally made with black-eyed peas and a ham hock and served with rice, the comforting and hearty dish is often served with collard greens on New Year’s Day, as the coin-shaped legumes and greencolored leaves represent economic prosperity. hoppin’ john was on the debut menu at southern, the hot chicken joint opened by chef-owner Rick Lewis in the Midtown neighborhood of st. Louis in 2015. Today, hoppin’ john rotates as a side dish on the menu, with Lewis changing up the recipe depending on his mood; sometimes he switches out the smoked ham hock for pork shank, bacon or even andouille sausage. “It’s a classic southern dish; it’s really tasty, but you don’t see it on a lot of restaurant menus,” Lewis says. “we thought about red beans and rice or stewed black-eyed peas, and I was like, ‘why don’t we do the best of both worlds? hoppin’ john!’ A lot of people were really confused by it – probably the most-asked question when we opened was, ‘what is hoppin’ john?’ But people love it.” –L.M. 314.531.4668,

4 4 ¼ 2 2 1 2 1 2 4 1 1 1

| 4 to 6 | oz pancetta, cut into small chunks cloves garlic, peeled and crushed cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving medium carrots, peeled, large dice stalks celery, large dice small onion, large dice cups loosely packed fresh Italian parsley leaves 28-oz can San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand bay leaves quarts cold water lb brown lentils, rinsed Tbsp kosher salt cup long-grain rice freshly grated Grana Padano (to serve)

| preparation | In the bowl of a food processor, combine pancetta and garlic, and process until smooth. heat a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, and add olive oil. when hot, add pancetta mixture, and stir until fat renders, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, in the bowl of food processor, combine carrots, celery, onion and parsley. process until slightly chunky. when pancetta mixture has rendered, add processed vegetables to Dutch oven, and cook, stirring until dried out, about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes; fill emptied can with water, and pour into pancetta mixture. Add bay leaves and cold water to Dutch oven. Bring to a boil, and simmer rapidly, uncovered, until soup is reduced by a fourth, about 1 hour. Add lentils, cover and cook, 15 to 20 minutes. Add salt and rice to Dutch oven, and stir. simmer until rice is al dente. Don’t overcook – rice will continue cooking in soup as you serve it. Remove bay leaves. serve with a drizzle of olive oil and sprinkle of cheese. Inspired Local Food Culture

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Pomegranates pomegranates have figured in greek tradition since antiquity: in greek mythology, hades abducted persephone, daughter of demeter, goddess of the harvest, and brought her to the underworld. demeter went into mourning, and the earth was barren. Zeus attempted to save her, but as she had been tricked into eating six pomegranate seeds, she had to spend six months of the year in the underworld and six on earth – thus causing the seasons. greek tradition holds that on new year’s day, you must break a pomegranate on the threshold of your home’s door for good luck. Kansas city chef-owner Michael Smith of Michael Smith restaurant and extra Virgin uses pomegranates in a variety of preparations, including molasses, syrup and seeds. Smith loves using the jewel-like pomegranate seeds sprinkled on salads and entrées, and he thinks americans should embrace the extra work. “i love traveling to Mediterranean regions like greece, turkey, Morocco and Sicily, to name a few,” Smith says. “these regions revere the pomegranate… it’s the symbol of wealth, prosperity and fertility for many countries.” with molasses, Smith says you only need to add a small amount to dishes as the flavor is so strong. “i like to use pomegranate molasses for marinades and lacquers, but i generally mix it with pomegranate syrup when i want a fuller, richer pomegranate [flavor],” he says. “the molasses is very tangy and concentrated, so i like to let it out a bit.” –N.S. 816.842.2205, 816.842.2202, photo by williaM heSS

Pomegranate Lamb-Stuffed QuinceS Aleppo pepper is a Middle Eastern and Mediterranean spice similar to ancho chile, and ras el hanout is a Moroccan blend of at least a dozen spices; both can be found at specialty markets and grocery stores. Smen is salted, fermented butter used in North African and Middle Eastern cuisines. Recipe by Michael SMith, chef-owneR, Michael SMith and extRa ViRgin



quart water large quinces, peeled tsp saffron tsp kosher salt tsp freshly ground black pepper cup granulated sugar sprig thyme sprig oregano bay leaf


lb ground lamb clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1-inch-long piece ginger, grated medium yellow onion, finely diced dried apricots, finely diced tsp finely minced preserved lemon cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves tsp ras el hanout large egg, lightly beaten Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Tbsp kosher salt tsp freshly ground black pepper Tbsp pomegranate molasses, divided tsp ground Aleppo pepper, divided cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro, divided (plus more for garnish) cups chicken broth Tbsp melted smen or unsalted butter

heat. Reduce to a slow simmer, add quinces and all remaining ingredients and poach for 25 minutes or until soft. Remove pot from heat, and let cool. Remove cooked quinces from pot, and strain and reserve cooking liquid. pour cooking liquid into a small saucepot, and reduce until thickened into a saucelike consistency; set aside. Scoop out center of each cooked quince using a sharp melon baller, or carefully carve out a sufficient hole using a paring knife. Store finished quinces in reduced saffron-quince broth until ready to stuff.

| preparation – lamb stuffing | preheat oven to 375°f. in a medium bowl, combine

Lamb stuffing

1 1 1 1 10 1 ½ 2 1 3 1 2 3 1½ 1 2 2

cooked Arabic rice pilaf fresh mint sprigs fresh cilantro, roughly chopped fresh parsley leaves, roughly chopped fresh pomegranate seeds pine nuts, roughly chopped

| preparation – quinces | in a wide, shallow saucepot, bring water to a boil over high


1 4 1 1 1 ½ 1 1 1

to serve

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first 12 ingredients and 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses, 1 teaspoon aleppo pepper and ½ cup cilantro, and mix well. Stuff cooked quince shells with lamb mixture, mounding filling over top of quince by a good ¾ inch. place stuffed quinces in a casserole dish. in a small bowl, combine remaining pomegranate molasses, aleppo pepper and cilantro with broth and smen, and mix well. add reduced quince cooking liquid to broth mixture. pour liquid over stuffed quinces in dish. bake 35 minutes or until lamb is cooked through. Remove quinces from casserole dish, and keep warm. Strain remaining cooking juices into a small pot, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer, until thickened into a saucelike consistency.

| to serve | Serve stuffed quinces individually on plates or on a large platter over cooked arabic rice pilaf. Sprinkle with mint, cilantro and parsley. garnish with pomegranate seeds and pine nuts. Spoon cooking liquid over finished dish, and serve.



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A Christmas tradition in Mexico, tamales are becoming a year-round favorite in Kansas City thanks to the women behind The Tamale Kitchen WrItten by ettIe bernekIng


he kitchen at the Guadalupe Centers in Kansas City is closed for the evening, but inside, Velia, Gigi, Sicilia, SanJuana and Maria are busy preparing 300 tamales for an upcoming order. Hotel pans brimming with warm shredded pork crowd the counters while pots of salsa verde bubble to life on the stove. Across the kitchen, Gigi and Maria make a sweet masa laced with juicy pineapple, coconut and raisins.

“I grew up making tamales all of my life,” Gigi says, kneading


PhotograPhy by ChrIstoPher smIth

the mound of masa in front of her. “You start with little parts, like cleaning the husks. Eventually, you make the filling.” As Gigi talks, Maria tears open a bag of granulated sugar and pours some into the masa as the commercial-grade stand mixer whirrs to life. Dubbed “the tamale women” by their neighbors and friends, Velia, Gigi, Sicilia, SanJuana and Maria never imagined they would be selling tamales in the U.S. or that tamales would help them become financially self-sufficient, but that is exactly what’s happening. This is The Tamale Kitchen, and these are the tamale women.

Several times a month, the women meet and make hundreds of tamales for special orders. Without a brick-and-mortar location, they bounce around church kitchens and community centers. The hours are long and the work is hard, but the kitchen is always filled with laughter and singing. Mostly hailing from northern Mexico, the women started selling their tamales in 2015 in part thanks to Father Jason Koch, the priest at Our Lady of Peace Parish Catholic Church in northeast Kansas City. Inspired Local Food Culture

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“He knew the women needed a pathway to self-sufficiency,” says Becky Gripp, founder of The Tamale Kitchen. Gripp is program director at community-based nonprofit Next Step KC, which provides affordable financial services to low- to moderate-income families in the Kansas City area. When a colleague suggested she meet with Father Koch to see if she could help a group of women in the church who were looking to become financially self-sufficient, Gripp began vetting project ideas. She landed on tamales, as one of the women, Velia, was known to make the best tamales around, and they could be made ahead of time, frozen and even shipped. With their product nailed down, Gripp started looking for community partners and found investor and director of operations Greg Watson, owner of Metro Apparel & Merchandise, and Ernesto A. Suárez, owner of Ariel Media KC, a full-service creative agency. Watson taught the women how to make baseball-themed T-shirts printed with phrases including “Por Siempre Royal,” which translates to “Forever Royal.” The sales from the T-shirts helped the women buy the first batch of ingredients to make their tamales, while Suárez designed the business’s logo and designed and built its website. (He still manages the website and Facebook page.) Unlike a traditional investment, Watson and Gripp don’t receive revenue or profits from the tamale sales. Their payoff is watching the women grow and take ownership of their product.

Tamales have been a central part of Mexican food culture for centuries. Suárez, who grew up making tamales with his family in Cuba, says they date back more than 5,000 years; made with inexpensive ingredients, tamales are filling and portable, making them a popular meal. “You only need a little amount of meat to put in the center and supplement the rest with cornmeal, and it fills you up,” he says. Tamales are not an everyday meal in Mexico, though. 86

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They’re labor-intensive and time-consuming to make and are usually reserved for special events and holidays, especially Christmas. Once a family has gathered together for the holidays, the tamaladas – or tamale-cooking festival – begins. “At Christmas all my aunts and mom would get together, and my grandmother would cook everything,” Sicilia says. “It was a very happy time.” With the assistance of Gripp and Watson, who help organize orders and schedule upcoming events, the women have sold their tamales – including pork, beef and vegetarian flavors – in the Kansas City area at the Northeast Farmers’ Market and in Overland Park, Kansas, at the Olive Tree and Ten Thousand Villages retail shops. They shipped a special order of sweet tamales to a customer in New York City for a birthday celebration in October, and they were invited by The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art to serve 2,000 tamales at the museum’s Day of the Dead event in early November. “It’s something everyone loves,” Sicilia says of tamales. She immigrated to the U.S. from Jalisco, Mexico, in 1981 and eventually ended up in Kansas City, where she’s raised her two sons. “There are some foods from Mexico that our kids don’t like,” she says, “but tamales, they love them.” Working as a team, the women can make 500 tamales in eight hours if they have all the equipment they need. Back in October, they worked out of a kitchen that lacked a stand mixer, so Gigi had to mix the masa by hand for 150 tamales. “The next day, my arms were so sore,” she says with a big laugh. For the most part, the tamale women’s workflow is seamless, in part thanks to Velia, whose great-grandmother’s recipe is at the heart of the operation. Velia essentially runs quality control and knows each step by heart: when the masa is ready and when the tamales are done steaming. The only thing she didn’t have when The Tamale Kitchen was starting out was a recipe

written down on paper. “Oh, my god!” Gripp says, laughing, recalling those early days. “I would ask how much masa do we have to buy to make 100 tamales? They didn’t know. Instead of a grocery list, we’d go to the [Gringo Loco] Hispanic market and I would push the cart while they filled a plastic bag with chiles, without weighing them. There would be four bags, and I would ask, ‘How many pounds does that equal?’… it took months to refine the [written] recipe.”

even today, the women don’t use measuring utensils – they are driven by instinct, eyeballing ingredients and moving through preparation steps by memory. “we know the texture,” gigi says, kneading another batch of masa. Gripp doesn’t help with the cooking. “I just slow them down,” she says, glancing over The Tamale Kitchen’s upcoming calendar of orders. Instead, she helps bag the finished tamales and warm them for events, and when Gigi and Sicilia are done making a batch of salsa verde, Gripp serves as the official taste tester. “We use tomatillos and jalapeños,” Sicilia says, as a pot of salsa verde comes to a rolling boil on the stove. “Customers can’t handle the spice, and we never know when the peppers are too hot. If Becky can handle it, we know it’s fine.” Over the past year, the women have educated Gripp about how to make the perfect tamale. They taught her that to make sure the tamales don’t run out of water while steaming, you put three pennies in the bottom of the pan. If you can hear the pennies rattling, you know you need to add more water. They also taught her that it’s bad luck to watch the cook put the tamales in the pot to steam.

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Inspired Local Food Culture

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“It depends on who’s watching,” say Sicilia and Velia, almost in unison, laughing as they stack soaked corn husks. “In my family, you don’t watch,” Velia says.

2015 where they sold their Kansas City Royals-themed T-shirts, and once Gripp joined the chamber, it connected her with numerous community partners, including Suárez.

For four of the five women, this is their only job. Sicilia is the only one in the group who works full time outside of The Tamale Kitchen. Before arriving at the kitchen at 3pm, she worked a full eight hours, and will be making tamales with the other women until 11pm. “It’s something we love,” she says. “I wish I could be here full time. That’s my dream.”

“Every significant relationship we have can be traced back to the Hispanic Chamber of Commerce,” Gripp says of The Tamale Kitchen. “When I start naming community partners, the list is never-ending. One connection leads to another.”

Right now, the tamale women work a few days each month depending on the number of orders they receive, and all five would like to see the number of orders increase. They can make 500 tamales in eight hours, and Gripp pays them each from the sales, which works out to $12.50 an hour. It’s not a ton of money, but it’s more than minimum wage, and if the women spend just eight nights cooking a month, they can bring home $800.

“when [becky] came to the church with this idea, i never thought it would [work],” sicilia says. “but she keeps us busy year-round. now we are together, seeing growth and making money.” Kansas City has a vibrant Hispanic community that makes up 10 percent of the city’s population. In fact, Kansas City has the largest Hispanic population in the state of Missouri. (By comparison, St. Louis’ Hispanic community is 2.8 percent.) The Hispanic Chamber of Commerce of Greater Kansas City has been a vital resource for helping get The Tamale Kitchen out into the community. The chamber invited the women to the annual Fiesta in June 88

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Those connections have paid off for the women of The Tamale Kitchen. Their business has grown, and while they don’t currently have plans to open a brick-and-mortar shop, they’re talking about hiring more cooks and even testing shipping methods for customers across the country. The money they make goes back to their families and their community. One of the women uses the money from The Tamale Kitchen to send her son to a Catholic high school. Others use their earnings to buy groceries and cover bills. The work provides them with more than just extra cash, though. “It’s not enough to just pay them well,” Gripp says. Since starting the business, Gripp and Watson have worked to teach the women new skills. The women have learned how to make sales, promote their product, conduct interviews and even hire new cooks. But before The Tamale Kitchen can expand operations, it needs more orders. “I want to cook one to two times a week,” Gigi says. “Maybe one day.” For now, the women don’t have time to worry about drumming up business. They are busy preparing orders for upcoming holiday events and looking for a new kitchen space to use, hopeful that they’ll nail down a permanent agreement after the first of the year.

against one wall. Velia and Sicilia quickly sort through the husks that have been soaking in water for the past hour. Each husk has a rough side and a smooth side, and Sicilia and Velia can feel the difference by running their thumbs across the ribbing of each one. The rough side goes on the outside of the tamale while the smooth side is where the masa and fillings are spread. As Sicilia pulls the wet husks out of the water, she stands them upright in a hotel pan so they can easily be retrieved and filled with masa. The women crowd around a long work table; using an ice cream scoop, the masa is mounded onto the smooth side of the corn husk. Gently cradling the bundle in one palm, one of the women uses a spoon to flatten the batter before piling on juicy pulled pork, salsa verde, or sautéed peppers and onions. From there, another woman folds up the sides of the husk, encasing the masa, and stacks them standing up in a steaming tray. In a matter of minutes, rows of plump tamales crowd the tray. A sheet of aluminum foil is wrapped over the top of the pan before it’s slid into the steamer, where the sticky masa will cook for an hour. While they wait, Sicilia and Velia head back to the sink to soak more corn husks in preparation for another batch of tamales. They laugh as they reminisce about helping their mothers and grandmothers make tamales in Mexico. Tamales are a part of their past, and now, they’re a part of their future. Their neighbors and friends know about The Tamale Kitchen, and Sicilia jokes that she prefers to be called a chef. “They call us the tamale women,” Sicilia says, while Velia nods in the background. “We make the tamales proudly.” 816.679.8119,

While their time in this kitchen is limited, they’re enjoying the setup. There’s plenty of counter space, which means there’s ample room for the stacks of dried corn husks that lean

Editor’s NotE: The surnames of the employees of The Tamale Kitchen have been excluded at the organization’s request.

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Six warm cocktails that carry on the holiday tradition of boozy drinks made on the stove and served by the fire written by Mallory GnaeGy toM and jerry photo by jonathan GayMan

recipe by MarGie Greene ServeS | 15 to 20 |

6 2 1

eggs tsp ground cinnamon tsp freshly grated nutmeg, plus more for garnish ½ tsp ground ginger ½ tsp ground allspice 2 to 2½ lbs powdered sugar whiskey, to serve hot milk, to serve

| preparation | Separate eggs. in a mixing bowl, beat egg whites to stiff peaks. in a separate bowl, beat yolks until light, and then add to whites. add spices, and slowly and thoroughly stir mixture. Gradually add powdered sugar until mixture is thick. Use immediately, or cover and store in refrigerator until ready to use (keeps for about a week). in a cup with 1 shot of whiskey, place 1 heaping tablespoon of mixture, and fill the rest with hot milk. Grate fresh nutmeg over top.

few days before Christmas, my sprightly 88-year-old grandma, Margie Greene, is bustling around her small, wood-paneled kitchen in Hermann, Missouri. She’s preparing for her family to arrive, ready to receive praise for the feast she’s spent days preparing. She’s barefoot and in pajamas, humming aloud to music in her head. The ingredients for Tom and Jerrys – a 2-pound bag of powdered sugar and a carton of eggs – sit out on her counter next to her white KitchenAid mixer. I can picture her turquoise-ringed fingers on sun-spotted piano-teacher hands effortlessly separating egg whites. Tom and Jerry is a classic holiday drink said to have been invented by British journalist Pierce Egan in the early 1800s as a publicity stunt for his book-turned-play, Tom and Jerry, or Life in London. Often compared to eggnog, it’s significantly lighter-bodied, mixed with a shot of whiskey (or equal parts brandy and rum) and served piping hot with a garnish of freshly grated nutmeg. The batter is made by beating egg whites stiff; adding frothy, beaten yolks; stirring in grated spices; and slowly adding more than 2 pounds of powdered sugar. To serve, a heaping dollop of the thick, sticky batter is added to the alcohol (or not, for the kids), with hot milk poured over and stirred. Like other now-uncommon cocktails that have outlived many generations, the recipe has been preserved through tradition. My grandma has always served it in glasses from her Tom and Jerry set – heavy, white, tea-cup sized glasses decorated with red-lined illustrations of people sleigh-riding, with “Tom and Jerry” printed in an Old English font. There’s also a matching punch bowl that stores the mix. She says her friends had similar Tom and Jerry sets when they were the thing-to-drink at Hermann holiday parties in the ’50s and ’60s, when her four children were toddlers. This set was gifted to my grandma by her late sister-in-law, Janice, at the height of the drink’s popularity. She’s been making them every holiday since. To me, it embodies the Greene family Christmas tradition. My family is big. When everyone, including babies and significant others, is present, there’s a chaotic and hungry army of 25, plus six dogs. Every Christmas, we pile into Grandma’s big brick colonial home – Greene Acres – illuminated by sparkling lights and situated atop a hill overlooking all of Hermann. My 91-year-old, World War II-vet grandpa, Jack Greene, built the house for my grandma in 1963. He also built a huge “noel” sign in lights that hangs each year on the back of the house – a beacon you can see across the town. Inside, you’ll find the kind of Norman Rockwellian sentiment that’s hard to come by these days: a fire lit with a rosy-cheeked family around the table eating a carved turkey and all the accoutrements, raucously opening presents in mountains of discarded bows and wrapping paper, singing four-part carols around the piano with dogs percussively barking, and enjoying each other’s company over a glass of Tom and Jerry with Grandpa asleep in his chair in the corner. This yearly tradition of my extended family getting together is an unspoken requirement. We do it because we know it’s important to Grandma and Grandpa. And Grandma’s cooking is the glue that holds it together. My grandma is the type of cook one becomes only after raising four kids, spoiling eight grandchildren and cooking your husband three square meals a day for 69 years (even if he says some weren’t all that great). She’s also the type of woman to whom you can’t say no. Often I’m either not hungry or watching my figure, and I forcefully tell my grandma, “I mean it! I’m not hungry.” And still, somehow, I end up with a belly full of brunch, lunch, appetizers (a meal in itself), dinner, two helpings of dessert and more cookies than I care to admit.

“Have you some more…” she’ll say, of whatever she discovers is your favorite. She knows each kid and grandkid’s favorite thing and always makes sure to have them all no matter how much it exhausts her to prepare – it’s how she shows her love. Everything Grandma makes is my favorite, but Tom and Jerrys are high on my list. We always drink them after we’ve opened presents on Christmas Eve, once the kitchen is clean and Grandma can finally put her feet up. By this time, Grandpa has turned his hearing aid off and has fallen asleep in his chair. (He prefers Martinis to Tom and Jerrys, anyway.) And because they always culminate an exciting day, I can’t help but think of all the memories the drink carries with it: of being a little girl on Christmas morning, all the cousins lined up on the steps by age, donning staticky hand-me-down holiday nightgowns, anxious to open the presents Santa brought us that year. I think of my suspendered grandpa, secretly trying to smoke cigarettes in the basement while putting the final touches on the most beautiful handmade toys and furniture that he gifted every year. And I remember the year it was my turn to receive one of his handmade presents, and him unveiling a beautiful oak writing desk – the most cherished gift anyone has ever given me. I picture Jazzy, the world’s ugliest Shih Tzu mix, with an underbite so bad she’d have a hard time pronouncing her own name if she could talk. My grandpa always dresses her in a holiday sweater and feeds her sugar cookies at bedtime every night. But the thing Tom and Jerrys make me most nostalgic for is my late uncle Richard, a liberal, wine-loving chief judge of the Kansas Court of Appeals. He was the cornerstone of our family, and my grandparents’ only son. Aside from sauerkraut balls, Tom and Jerrys were his favorite, too. I could always tell how many drinks he’d had earlier in the night based on the strength of the Tom and Jerry he served me. I picture him and my grandma cooking in her little kitchen, with barely enough space for the both of them, my uncle making a big mess and my grandma cleaning up behind him. This was their domain, their happy place. And they were the heart and soul of all our family get-togethers. I always sat by watching them cook, waiting for handouts right alongside the dogs. It’s this influence that led me to becoming a food writer. Uncle Richard died in 2012 from complications of a heart condition right before the holiday season. It completely rocked and devastated our family. I think of the void he’s left and of us all getting older – all the cousins marrying off, having kids, promising to try and make it at least every other year. And it makes me sad: to think that someday this tradition of us getting together – one I’m so proud of having sustained for so many decades – might not survive. Tom and Jerrys remind me of why holiday cocktail and food traditions are so important in the first place and maybe why my grandma always puts in so much effort into Christmas. Traditions like these are what we look forward to when the less-fun parts of life happen. They’re so strongly tied to our memories – both the better years and the worse years – and force us to remember the loved ones no longer with us. They inform our identity and connect us from generation to generation. Drinking Tom and Jerrys with my family reminds me that nothing lasts forever and to cherish and preserve these little nutmeg-sprinkled moments while I can.

Many beverage directors and bartenders have captured similar traditions by the pour. Whether they are featuring drinks inspired by their own family traditions or have found charm in the recent resurgence of classic warm cocktails, five bartenders have given us recipes for their favorites.

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“As soon as cider starts mulling, the room is immediately filled with the aroma of cloves and cinnamon. It really has played a huge role in our fall and winter traditions here at the bar. Everyone seems to be ready to be stuck inside, drinking a warm beverage as soon as cooler weather hits.” –Dylan Fox, beverage director and bar manager of barley, Wheat & Rye social house in springfield, missouri RECipE by Dylan Fox sERvEs | 15 to 20 |

1 4 10 to 12 1 2 15 to 20

gallon cider sticks cinnamon cloves tsp freshly grated nutmeg oz rum (spiced or aged, but not white), to serve orange peels (to garnish)

| preparation | in a large stockpot, add cider. place mulling spices in cheesecloth and add to cider; bring to a boil for 1 minute. Keep on medium heat all day. For serving at home, heat in a crockpot on high. To serve, in a coffee mug, add 2 ounces rum. Fill with mulled cider. Garnish each with 1 orange peel. phoTo by sTaRboaRD & poRT CREaTivE

“Once an eggnog or two has gone down, the real family stories of Christmas begin. This recipe is adapted from my grandfather Herman Epstein’s. He was a rival bootlegger to Tom Pendergast, the legendary Kansas City political boss during Prohibition. My grandfather believed in two things: family and eggnog during the holidays (and for Grandpa, the holidays started right after Halloween and continued well into January).” –David Epstein, co-founder, Tom’s Town Distilling Co. in Kansas City RECipE by DaviD EpsTEin sERvEs | 1 |

1 3 ¼

ice oz Tom’s Town Distilling Co. Pendergast’s Royal Gold Bourbon oz Shatto Milk Co. Pumpkin Spice eggnog oz allspice dram pinch freshly grated nutmeg (for garnish)

| preparation | in a cocktail shaker with ice, combine all ingredients except garnish. shake, and strain into a glass. Garnish with freshly grated nutmeg, and serve. phoTo by zaCh bauman


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“My grandma used to give me a Hot Toddy in the wintertime when I was coming in from the snow. My family has never really frowned upon giving alcohol to children, so to her, it didn’t make any difference if you’re 5 or 50 – if you came in out of the cold, it was time for a hot glass of toddy.” –Danny schlink, owner, J.o.b. public house in springfield, Missouri ReCipe by Danny sChlinK seRves | 8 |

Toddy 1 ½ 1 1 1 1

tea-strainer ball Earl Grey tea gallon apple cider orange, peeled and sliced lemon, peeled and sliced vanilla bean stick cinnamon

To Serve 1 tsp honey 1½ oz Gosling’s Black Seal rum 1 capful Pierre Ferrand Dry Orange Curaçao

| preparation – toddy | in a stockpot, add all ingredients, and bring to a simmer for 15 minutes.

| to serve | Fill a mug with honey and rum and Curaçao. ladle infused tea into glass, and serve. photo by staRboaRD & poRt CReative

“There’s something about glögg that makes you feel warm and wonderful. It’s perfect for making in big batches and sharing at gatherings with family and friends. At Krokstrom Klubb & Market, guests constantly ask about our recipe and compare it to their own family recipe. It’s always great to chat with customers about all the different variances from country to country and region to region.” –Josh Rogers, owner and general manager, Krokstrom Klubb & Market in Kansas City ReCipe by Josh RogeRs seRves | 1 |

1 1 1 1 1 1 ¼ 1 ¼ ½ 1

Tbsp cardamom pods Tbsp cloves Tbsp whole allspice Tbsp caraway stick cinnamon star anise cup sliced and blanched almonds (plus more for garnish) bottle red wine cup raisins, plus more for garnish cup brandy oz aquavit

| preparation | in a 1½-quart pot over medium heat, toast all spices and almonds. Carefully and slowly pour in entire bottle of wine, as it will steam up. stir in raisins and brandy, and heat until about to boil, and then simmer for 10 minutes. steep overnight. heat and then strain out solids before serving, top with aquavit, and spoon in raisins and almonds for garnish. photo by zaCh bauMan

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“I originally wanted to come up with a Hot Buttered Rum that employed a sense of technique. I had a few in the past that weren't much more than simple syrup, hot rum and a pat of butter on top. They were oily, weird and barely drinkable. This drink, however, is rich and indulgent, with flavors of freshly ground nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves adding winter spice.” –Ben Bauer, beverage director, The Libertine in St. Louis Recipe By Ben BaueR SeRveS | 20 |

Butter Base ¾ lb softened butter 1 cup brown sugar 1 oz molasses ¼ tsp freshly ground nutmeg ½ tsp freshly ground cinnamon ¼ tsp freshly ground cloves pinch salt to serve 12 oz Demerara rum* 12 oz Jamaican rum* lemon wheel (for garnish) cinnamon stick (for garnish) *I recommend El Dorado 5-Year Demerara Rum and Smith & Cross Jamaican Rum

| preparation – butter base | in a large mixing bowl, combine butter, brown sugar and molasses, and beat using an electric mixer until fluffy. add spices and salt, and fold in. chill until ready to serve; mixture will keep for up to 2 weeks.

| to serve | in individual 8-ounce mugs or glasses, combine 2 heaping teaspoons butter base. Blend rums, and separate 1½ ounces into each mug. Fill remaining space in mugs with boiling water, and mix until combined. Garnish with lemon wheel and cinnamon stick, and serve. phoTo By jonaThan Gayman

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SOUP’S ON. This month, we’re warming up from the cold with a favorite comforting dish: soup. We asked our Instagram followers to share photos of soups – from hearty chili and comforting stew to in-season roasted vegetable soups and bowls of ramen – by using the hashtag #feastgram. Turn to p. 46 to learn how to make your own broths and stocks. Then, flip to p. 81 for a recipe for lentil soup – considered a lucky food for New Year’s eve – from Lidia Bastianich of Lidia’s Kansas City.


| 1 | Julia Calleo @mylavenderblues Tonight’s dinner plans = super easy + comforting butternut squash soup and some homemade braided gluten (warrior braid totally optional). Recipe in archives. | 2 | SCott Sandler @pizzeoli Late-night dinner. #VeggieRamen at @VistaRamen just what I needed. You can only eat so much bread and pizza! |2|

| 3 | Sam + adam


@livelocalstl Happy Friday, friends. (At Death in the Afternoon)

| 4 | JeSSiCa @jayy_teee Spicy tonkotsu ramen. Perfect for a chilly day (at Sama Zama) | 5 | Sherrie CaStellano @withfoodandlove New on the blog! Caramelized golden beet soup with other fall roots + garlicky yogurt (or garlicky cashew cream to keep it totally vegan) to celebrate @TwoRedBowls new babe! I promise even the biggest beet skeptic will dig it. | 6 | amanda WilenS @feedme_withamanda Working on two different white bean soups! This one is garlic-sage... Topped with some roasted Brussels sprouts. Recipes to come!


| 7 | CandiS Stiebel @candis.stiebel Chicken soup fixes everything.


| 8 | Food drink etC @food.drink.etc #ChickenWaldorfSalad #TomatoSoup | 9 | Water Street @waterstreetstl Minestrone soup special topped with Parmesan and basil pesto. | 10 | mary Jane burgerS & breW @maryjaneburgersandbrew We are in the heart of fall, and that means it’s soup season! Today we have smoked sausage and wild rice soup topped with corn relish and scallions #SoupSeason



Want to see your photos in the January issue of Feast?

Next month, we’re kicking off the new year on a healthy note. We want to see the smoothies you’re devouring, whether sipped through a straw or arranged into an artful smoothie bowl. To submit your photos for consideration, simply include the hashtag #feastgram and tag @feastmag on your Instagram photos beginning Thu., Dec. 1.


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Get a FREE pound of our in-house fresh pasta with your gift card purchase of $25 or more. Relax & let Katie’s cater your holiday party this year! For more information contact Belinda Lee at (314) 942-6555. 9568 Manchester Rd. Rock Hill, MO (314) 942-6555

Inspired Local Food Culture

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making spirits

Bright Mix or Match any 6 or more 750ml bottles of wine!






es Includ ne pag m a h C ling k r a p &S ! Wine


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