September 2020 Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture

P. 3 2

From grill packs to virtual cooking classes, these innovations prove our region's resiliency.

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midwest

september 2020

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Inspired Local Food Culture /

midwest

september

2020

Volume 10 / Issue 8 Publisher

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

general manager

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com managing editor

Susan Eckert, seckert@laduenews.com 314.269.8838

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com

Special projects coordinator

assistant editor

Aubrey Byron, abyron@feastmagazine.com

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor

Mabel Suen fact checker

Karen Parkman Proofreader

Alecia Humphreys Contributing Writers

Ren Bishop Luebbering, Julia Calleo, Gabrielle DeMichele, Amanda Elliott, Juliana Goodwin, Rogan Howitt, Burk Krohe, Liz Miller, Claire Porter, JC Sandt, Jenn Tosatto, Jessica Vaughn Martin, Shannon Weber

Feature perfecting the pivot

FEAST TV

These exciting innovations have kept us connected to the regional food scene throughout the pandemic.

producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

Contact Us Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Eric Freeman for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at efreeman@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

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st. louis

36

springfield

38

columbia

40

kansas city

ART Art Director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers

Julia Calleo, Aaron Clark, Tessa Cooper, Judd Demaline, Travis Ewart, Anna Petrow, Pilsen Photo Co-op, Jennifer Silverberg, Starboard & Port Creative, Mabel Suen, Kim Wade, Cheryl Waller

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright Š 2010-2020 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

on the cover Apple-glazed pork chop with grilled corn quinoa, roasted Brussels sprouts and apple-mint chimichurri from JR's Gourmet in St. Louis by Judd Demaline table of contents The redesigned dining room of Farina in Kansas City by Pilsen Photo Co-op

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/ 11 / the dish Hungarian picadillo

/ 20 / on trend Cocktail kits

/ 12 / the mix Clarified island milk punch

/ 22 / healthy appetite

Braised leeks with creamy miso-chive dressing

/ 14 / how-to

Flash-frozen vegetables / 16 / shop here Wild Olive Provisions

/ 24 / quick fix No-fuss focaccia

/ 17 / midwest made Hand sanitizer

/ 25 / culinary library

Brad Leighninger of Gettin' Basted and Downing Street Pour House

/ 18 / mystery shopper Ajvar

/ 26 / crash course Apples

Open Daily 11am-5pm closed tuesday’s

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Please head to our website to plan your next winery visit or shop our online store! / s e pt e mbe r 2 02 0

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Letter

from the

Publisher

W

hen all of this began back in March, I never thought the pandemic would stretch out so long. Perhaps I was naive.

Perhaps many of us were, honestly, when we talked about having to lock down for two weeks, maybe a month. Life looks very different now, and it seems like we’re all settling into something of a routine, patiently anticipating a time when things can begin to resemble life as we once knew it.

Throughout these past months, small independent businesses have been impacted more than big companies with deep pockets. The culinary industry, which is largely dependent on the gathering together of customers, cooks and servers, has taken an especially tough hit. Believe it or not, one in four people who are newly unemployed due to the pandemic worked in the restaurant industry. The entire food-and-drink industry is huge – it is one of our state’s biggest employers and, according to the Independent Restaurant Coalition, revenue from the restaurant industry was, until recently, four percent of the nation’s GDP. And it’s not just the cafés and restaurants and bars that are taking a hit – the impact trickles down to all of the people who are part of the larger landscape, including farmers, fishermen, distillers, vintners, brewers, cheesemakers, bread bakers… The impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on the people who feed us is deep and far-reaching.

That said, those same people are entrepreneurs. In normal times, opening a restaurant is incredibly risky. If you’re going to get into this business and succeed, you have to have more than a few outstanding dishes to share.

You have to have vision, passion and dedication – a thick skin doesn’t hurt either. So, as the pandemic began to shutter our region’s bars and restaurants, these independent risk-takers did not just sit back and watch it happen; they took stock of the situation, looked at what they could do to adapt and began innovating.

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In this issue, we bring you some of the people who have successfully innovated during this time, finding ways to not simply stay afloat but to create new revenue streams and explore unique ways of doing business, from opening a bottle shop (Leslie’s Liquors, p. 40) to launching a line of frozen pizzas (Katie’s Pizza and Pasta Osteria, p. 33) to selling grill packs that even include the grill (Aviary Cafe, p. 36).

While times are still very difficult for just about everyone in the culinary world, these are some bright spots that remind all of us of the grit and tenacity of those who work each day to make our lives just a bit more fun – and a lot more delicious.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville

publisher@feastmagazine.com

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PROMOTION

A FEW OF MY FAVORITE THINGS: FALL, FARMS AND FRUIT The beginning of fall has always been one of my favorite times of the year. The hot temperatures are beginning to cool, but it’s still warm enough to be outside without your jacket. The busy holiday hustle hasn’t hit yet, but there is a more organized flow to daily activities that was absent in summer. The best part of this time of year is that it’s peak apple season. Growing up, some of my favorite memories are my mom packing up me, my siblings and our neighborhood friends and embarking on an adventure to the pick-your-own farm.

Although we went for almost all the seasonal picking occasions, apple picking was always my favorite. Running through the orchards in search of the biggest, sweetest apple became a competition between us all. We’d search high and low, sometimes even climbing into the trees until we found the perfect pick. Now that we are older and many of us have kids of our own, my siblings and I continue the tradition of picking apples. I love sharing this experience with my girls to help them better understand where their food comes fun while enjoying nature’s sweetest treats.

Even though apples are available year-round, nothing quite compares to biting into a crisp apple you just pulled off a tree. The best part

SAFFRON INFUSED APPLES WITH BABY KALE AND TURMERIC VINAIGRETTE SERVES 6 1 10 oz bag baby kale

Dressing:

½ cup dried cranberries

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

½ cup whole raw almonds, roughly chopped

2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar

½ cup raw pepitas

1 Tbsp minced shallot

2 Golden Delicious apples, thinly sliced

1 tsp fresh sage

1 cup unsweetened apple juice

½ tsp turmeric powder

1 cup white wine

½ tsp dijon mustard

2-3 saffron strands, crumbled

Salt and pepper to taste

PREPARATION Place chopped almonds in a small sauté pan and cook on high heat for 3-5 minutes until golden brown. Set aside and allow to cool. In a large bowl, combine kale, cranberries, toasted almonds and pepitas. Set aside.

Combine apple juice, wine and saffron strands in a small pot. Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Add sliced apples and poach until apples are slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, combine olive oil, vinegar, shallot, sage, turmeric, and dijon in a blender or food processor. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Toss dressing with salad mixture. Strain apples and place on top of salad.

about apples is the endless varieties available. From tart and sour Granny Smith to sweet and earthy Honeycrisp, you can find whatever flavor best suits your needs. The sweet and mellow Golden Delicious variety featured in this month’s recipe, pairs perfectly with the floral notes of saffron infused into this fall salad. The added bonus of fiber and vitamin C make apples an even tastier snack or addition to any dish. So even if you can’t get to a pick-your-own farm, stop by Schnucks to pick up your favorite variety of apples to complement all the delicious flavors of fall.

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SPONSORED CONTENT BY ALLISON PRIMO SCHNUCKS REGISTERED DIETITIAN

THE DISH / the mix / HOW-TO / SHOP HERE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / ON TREND / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Beth Barden, chef-owner of Succotash, a whimsical brunch-forward spot in the Longfellow neighborhood of Kansas City, is a lot like the dishes she serves: full of color, creativity and ingenuity. A whiz at creating delicious dishes out of a few scant ingredients, she doesn’t let anything go to waste in her kitchen. For example, to make Hungarian picadillo, inspired by one of her favorite Cuban dishes, Barden uses much of what she already has on hand – or

hungarian picadillo

adapts the recipe based on whatever farm-fresh produce is available. Barden applies this zero-waste approach to every aspect of her business. When COVID-19 hit the city, she and her team closed the dining room at Succotash and started making meals for frontline workers.

The restaurant has since reopened for takeout, curbside pickup and delivery, but Barden has plans to transform it into a type of bodega with limited outdoor seating. She hopes the reimagined space will serve as an anchor for the community and her staff. –Jenny Vergara

Recipe courtesy of Beth Barden, chef-owner, Succotash Photography by anna petrow

This recipe tastes even better the next day.

Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator. serves 4 2 Tbsp olive oil 1 medium onion, finely diced 5 cloves garlic, sliced 1 pinch salt, plus more to taste 2 tsp Aleppo pepper 2 Tbsp smoked paprika 1 Tbsp cumin 1½ lbs ground beef (85 percent lean preferred) ½ cup green olives, roughly chopped 2 Tbsp capers ½ cup giardiniera Kansas City Canning Co.’s ½ cup raisins giardiniera is Barden’s favorite. ¼ cup Worcestershire sauce 28 oz can whole peeled tomatoes, broken up 2 unpeeled medium russet potatoes, diced freshly ground black pepper, to taste / preparation / In a large, deep skillet over medium heat, heat oil. Add onion and garlic and lightly salt to coax out moisture; cook until ingredients begin to soften, 3 to 4 minutes. Add Aleppo pepper, paprika and cumin; cook, 3 minutes. Add ground beef; breaking it up with a spoon, cook until it starts to brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in olives, capers, giardiniera, raisins, Worcestershire sauce and tomatoes; cook, 6 minutes.

(The mixture will be slightly soupy.) Add potatoes; cover and cook until tender, 15 to 18 minutes. Once potatoes are tender, remove lid and let sauce reduce for approximately 5 more minutes, until all the flavors have combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Serve hot with high-quality egg noodles.

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THE DISH / THE MIX / HOW-TO / SHOP HERE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / ON TREND / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

MILK PUNCH Double the amount of tea required for brewing for a strong flavor without the unwanted bitterness.

A simple liqueur flavored with allspice berries, allspice dram adds a dark, strong and spicy counterpoint to the rum and sweet ingredients in this punch.

Clarified Island Milk Punch

Serves 1 3 3 16 ¹⁄₃ 6 6 ½ 1

Try Duckett Golden Rhum,

a light, crisp, dry rum oz lemon juice fermented, distilled and oz pineapple juice bottled just outside of St. oz strong tea cup granulated sugar Louis in Franklin County. oz overproof rum oz Batavia Arrack oz allspice dram cup whole milk dehydrated lemon wheel, for garnish grated nutmeg, for garnish

/ preparation / In a large bowl, add all ingredients except milk and garnishes. Add milk and gently stir to incorporate. (Milk will curdle – that’s supposed to happen.) Cover bowl and transfer to refrigerator; let sit, at least 30 minutes or overnight. Strain mixture through several layers of cheesecloth or nut milk bag to separate out milk solids. Strain again through same layers of cheesecloth or nut milk bag. Using a paper cone coffee filter (like those used in a pour-over coffee maker), strain for a third time (this could take a while). Strain again through same coffee filter. By this point, the liquid should be basically clear, meaning it’s ready to drink. Pour over a large ice cube, garnish with lemon wheel and nutmeg and enjoy.

Developed during Indonesia’s long colonial history under Dutch rule and considered by some to be the world’s first luxury spirit,

Batavia Arrack is made with sugarcane this rum - based punch sounds fancy , right ?

To clarify, it is indeed made with milk, which adds a rich, silky texture to the drink.

The mixture is strained multiple times – through layers of cheesecloth and then a coffee filter – to create a surprisingly clear cocktail, and while any tea will work in the recipe, I used a rooibos tea with a festive coconut flavor to add to its island vibes. The brew should be strong, but don’t steep the tea longer than the recommended time, as that can result in unwanted bitterness. For maximum enjoyment, keep the punch in the refrigerator and pour it over a large ice cube when ready to serve.

and fermented red rice and distilled in a pot still. The deeply pungent spirit is produced exclusively on the island of Java, where Batavia, the capital of the Dutch East Indies – an area that corresponds to present-day Jakarta – was located, and then shipped to the Netherlands, where it’s aged, blended and bottled. Combining smoky fruitiness with a vegetal funk, Batavia Arrack adds depth to cocktails and large format drinks alike. In fact,

Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photography by Starboard & Port Creative

it’s been the ingredient that, connoisseurs agree, has made the best punch since the 17th century – it soaks up the lemon, tea and sugar right down to the bottom of the bowl.

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"Rent our tent or tasting room for private parties!" (larger font) "Looking for a safe and fun space to host your next private event? You can now rent the outdoor tent or upstairs tasting room at 4 Hands Brewing Co. or parties up to 45 people. For more information and to make reservations ontact chris@4handsbrewery.com."

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With the hope that I will make a home-cooked meal every single night – a laughable aspiration, if I do say so myself – I buy a lot of fresh vegetables. However, with only two of us at home, I inevitably end up wasting some. Flash-freezing is a wonderful way to save excess produce from the trash – plus, the method makes weeknight meals a breeze because I can portion out the vegetables and use what I need when I need it. story, recipe and photography by Julia Calleo, writer and recipe developer, mylavenderblues.com

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F l a s h - F r o z e n V e g e ta b l e s

THE DISH / THE MIX / HOW-TO / SHOP HERE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / ON TREND / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

high heat, bring a large pot  Over medium of water to a rapid boil.

Immediately transfer vegetable to an  ice bath to prevent it from overcooking.

a baking sheet with freezer paper and spread  Line vegetables on top in a single layer, making sure they do not touch one another.



Blanch one type of vegetable at a time: Add prepared vegetable to boiling water and blanch, 2 to 5 minutes, depending on the type of vegetable.



Once vegetable has cooled, remove from ice bath and pat dry with a paper towel. (Excess moisture will cause freezer burn.) Repeat steps with remaining vegetables.



Place baking sheet in freezer; let sit until vegetables are frozen solid, at least 6 hours or overnight. Once frozen solid, quickly transfer them to storage containers using a silicone spatula (using a spatula keeps thawing to a minimum). Return vegetables to freezer and remember to use them.

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THE DISH / THE MIX / HOW-TO / SHOP HERE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / ON TREND / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

ST. LOUIS ▶

Wild Olive Provisions written by Burk Krohe / photography by mabel suen

Perched on a quiet corner in St. Louis’ Shaw neighborhood, Wild Olive Provisions specializes in wine – one of owners Scot Martin and Nerida Wilbraham’s greatest passions – as well as cheese and craft beer. “I would live on cheese, bread and wine if my metabolism would let me,” says Wilbraham. Most of the wine comes from small producers in California and Wilbraham’s native Australia.

Throughout the COVID-19 pandemic, Wild Olive Provisions has continued to serve the community – albeit in a more cautious fashion. A majority of the shop’s products are visible from the sidewalk, so customers can window shop and then order their groceries at a window in the door. “We’re doing everything we can to keep customers safe but also provide a bit of normality,” says Wilbraham.

2201 S. 39th St., St. Louis, Missouri, wildoliveprovisions.com

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feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 0

MIDWEST MADE

T h at ’ s T h e S p i r i t

These Midwest distilleries know how to make magic with ethanol. For years,

hand sanitizer

they’ve whipped up award-winning whiskey, mulled over moonshine and

Written by Claire Porter / photography by judd demaline

production lines and repurposing supplies, they were able to make and

bottled some of the best bourbon around, but when the COVID-19 pandemic hit the region, they used their expertise for a greater purpose. By adapting distribute the most essential form of alcohol at the time: hand sanitizer.

In response to the COVID-19 crisis, Missouri Ridge Distillery in Branson, Missouri, started making more hand sanitizer than moonshine. With the help of Show Me Ethanol, a dry-mill ethanol production facility located in Carrollton, Missouri, it’s produced more than 52,000 gallons of hand sanitizer for parts of Missouri, Arkansas, Oklahoma and Texas. The ethanol-based product is available at retailers in Branson, or customers can bring their own containers to be filled at the distillery. missouriridgedistillery.com

Foresight and ingenuity has kept the 65-person team at J. Rieger & Co. employed during the pandemic. In mid-March, the lauded Kansas City distillery launched Rieger’s Remedy, an FDA-approved liquid hand sanitizer. It began churning out 6.6-ounce bottles and 2-liter jugs, both of which sold out immediately. Fortunately, they’re back in stock and available at more than 40 retailers throughout Missouri and Kansas as well as online. jriegerco.com

After receiving a call from the Columbia Police Department, DogMaster Distillery – known for its dark rum and whiskeys – researched how to make hand sanitizer, which co-owner and director of distillery operations Dan Batliner says isn’t complicated.

Once the team got started, it took approximately five minutes to create an entire batch. The first 300 bottles went to the local police department and the Boone County Health Department, and the distillery promises it will continue to make, bottle, distribute and donate its ethanol-based hand sanitizer as long as it can access the raw materials. dogmasterdistillery.com

Stumpy’s Spirits Co. in Columbia, Illinois, is on a mission to keep the community in high spirits despite the circumstances.

Converting its grain-to-glass family farm and distillery into a production facility for hand sanitizer, it originally sold 750-milliliter bottles at retailers across Missouri and Illinois. Now, its low-odor hand sanitizer – made with premium ethanol, not fuel-grade ethanol – is available in 55-gallon drums in liquid and gel form. stumpysspirits.com

Holladay Distillery is lending a helping hand to the Weston, Missouri, community. The distillery has temporarily paused bourbon production to focus on sanitizer in an effort to combat the shortage and keep customers healthy. True to its name, Helping Hands, Holladay’s FDA-approved hand sanitizer, has a built-in social benefit: Consumer sales of the 200-milliliter bottles (five for $10) fund the continued production of 1¾-liter bottles, which the distillery donates to first responders, local health care facilities and polling places. holladaydistillery.com

/ s e pt e mbe r 2 02 0

17

THE DISH / THE MIX / HOW-TO / SHOP HERE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / ON TREND / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

What Is It? Ajvar, pronounced “EYE-var,” is a Balkan pepper relish brimming with fire-roasted peppers and eggplant, along with a touch of garlic and a vinegary kick to round it out. Less about heat and more about sweet, ajvar is an autumnal tradition on the Balkan Peninsula, where it’s made from the September harvest of roga peppers – although similar to red bell peppers, roga peppers have a more complex flavor profile. Different regions add additional ingredients such as sautéed onions or tomatoes, but the bare-bones version will always be my favorite.

What Do I Do With It? Although it’s thought of as a relish and perfectly at home when perched on top of a thick slice of bread, there’s a lot of other ways to enjoy ajvar. It has a thick texture, which makes for a great concentrated flavor base for tomato sauces and soups. Swirl it into pasta adorned with Feta and briny chopped olives; stir it into risotto or couscous; or simmer eggs in it. By all means, use it as a spread or dip too – I like it on meat-laden sandwiches and as a dip for fresh or blanched vegetables and pita.

Can you buy jarred ajvar? Yes, at international markets as well as large grocery stores – it’s that versatile and easy to love. That said, making it is the far tastier option, especially in early fall when you’re trying to keep your grill going for as long as you can. story and recipe by Shannon Weber, writer and recipe developer, aperiodictableblog.com photography by Jennifer Silverberg

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Ajvar

yields approximately 2 cups

1

3 3 to 4

3

2 1½

½

medium eggplant red bell peppers cloves garlic, peeled and smashed Tbsp olive oil Tbsp apple cider vinegar tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste tsp freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

/ preparation / Clean and prepare grill for medium high heat.

With a fork, pierce eggplant all over. Oil grill grates and place eggplant on coolest part of grill; turning every 10 to 15 minutes, grill until eggplant is wrinkled and very tender, 30 to 40 minutes.

While eggplant is cooking, set peppers on hottest part of grill; rotating frequently, grill until skin is blackened. Transfer both eggplant and peppers to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap to steam and cool.

Once cooled, slice eggplant in half and scoop out flesh, removing any large seeds. Place flesh in the bowl of a food processor; discard skin. Peel skin off roasted peppers and discard; remove stems and seeds and discard. Add peppers and garlic to food processor; pulse to chop. Add olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper; blend until smooth. Transfer mixture to a large saucepan and heat to a low simmer, stirring occasionally.

Continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until mixture has reached desired consistency (it should be very thick), 40 minutes to 1 hour. Transfer ajvar to jars and seal tightly. Store in refrigerator.

This relish is bright, velvety and thick thanks to the smoky eggplant in the background. For a little heat, roast a Fresno chile alongside the red bell pepper and chop it into the sauce prior to blending.

pair with: Blackberry Liqueur

PA I R IT!

Anytime I see vinegar in a recipe, I get excited – especially when the recipe has a hint of sweetness – because I can pair it with a fruit liqueur. Ajvar – smoky, tangy and slightly sweet – has a feeling of fall about it. In that vein, I recommend the blackberry liqueur from Of The Earth Farm + Distillery in Richmond, Missouri. The apple cider vinegar and blackberry play well off of each other but still allow the eggplant and red pepper to come through beautifully. I suggest sipping the liqueur neat, as the texture and mouthfeel are exquisite, especially after a bite of the relish. –Jenn Tosatto oftheearthfarm.com

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19

THE DISH / THE MIX / HOW-TO / SHOP HERE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / ON TREND / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Cocktail Kits With bars being the first to close and the last to reopen amid the

COVID-19 pandemic, many of us were forced to fend for ourselves if we wanted a luxurious libation at the end of the day. Luckily,

regional restaurants, bars and distilleries have come to the rescue, offering creative cocktail kits that come with all the ingredients (and sometimes the tools) you need to make a round of drinks – and effortlessly up your home bartending game. –Jenny Vergara ▶ Springfield, Missouri Everything about Whiskey Tango is a pleasant surprise, which is just how owners Karen and Stephen Williamson like it. Part steak and seafood restaurant, part speakeasy, Whiskey Tango is located in a shopping center in south Springfield, Missouri, but push through the doors and you’ll forget where you are. The sophisticated watering hole takes its drinks seriously, and during the pandemic, the team put together a few cocktail kits to keep customers happy. Each kit has all the ingredients you need to mix eight cocktails at home. We recommend the Quarantini, a Martini made with moonshine from Copper Run Distillery. Don’t have the right tools? Whiskey Tango also sells a bartending kit, which includes a shaker, jigger, strainer, bar spoon, cedar plank and torch.

1111 E. Republic Road, #180, Springfield, Missouri, whiskeytangomo.com photo by cheryl waller

Kansas City

st. louis

During the pandemic, Lifted Spirits

Andy Foerstel and Melissa Pfeiffer,

Distillery launched the Lifted Spirits

co-owners of Intoxicology in St. Louis,

Guest Bartender series, featuring

decided to create cocktail kits to meet

cocktail kits created by local mixologists.

customers’ needs while at home. There

The series wrapped up in June, but the

are seven curated kits in total, but the

Lifted Spirits team has continued to

Paper Plane is a must-try. The duo’s

create its own cocktail kits, each based

take on The Last Word – a gin-based,

on a person pushing boundaries in the

Prohibition-era cocktail – it features

city. Chris Goode, owner of Ruby Jean’s

Four Roses bourbon, Aperol, Amaro

Juicery, was up first. The kit he inspired,

Nonino and a fresh lemon. Or, if you like

the Boozy Sweet Tart, boasts Lifted

your drink to pack a little heat, try Ancho

Spirits Barrel Reserve #2 gin and Ruby

Problem, which comes with tequila, chile

Jean’s Sweet Tart juice.

liqueur, demerara syrup and a fresh lime.

1734 Cherry St., Kansas City, Missouri, liftedspiritskc.com

4321 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, intoxicologystl.com

Amy Marcus owner

Sweet Tea Pie Co. 20

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 0

Lifted Spirits

“Lifted Spirits did a cocktail kit inspired by my experience launching Sweet Tea Pie Co. in the middle of the pandemic. It was called Life's a Peach, based on my whiskey, peach, tomatillo and habanero pie. It was made with Lifted Spirits Barrel Reserve #2 gin, peach and habanero. I loved the complex sweetness and spiciness of it.”

FRESH INGREDIENTS. AUTHENTIC RECIPES. Hours:

monday-friday: 10:30am - 8:00pm saturday: 11:30am - 7:00pm

11982 dorsett rd. | 314.942.2300 | ddmaustl.com

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(314) 776-1062 | 5200 Daggett | St. Louis, MO 63110

Shop online at: www.digregoriofoods.com | Monday-Saturday 8am-5:30pm

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CURBSIDE CARRYOUT & LARGE OUTDOOR DINING SPACE RESERVATIONS AVAILABLE ONLINE • 314.405.0447 sistercitiescajun.com

Dining Room and Patio open.

Come check out our new seasonal late summer offerings, bar and food!

www.clevelandheath.com

618-307-4830

106 North Main Street - Edwardsville, IL 62025 / s e pt e mbe r 2 02 0

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THE DISH / THE MIX / HOW-TO / SHOP HERE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / ON TREND / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

When I braise leeks, I feel like I’m channeling the legendary souls of haute cuisine.

While leeks are utilized less than other onions, the simplicity of this side dish combined with a more modern sauce will hopefully create renewed interest in the mellow vegetable. For the sauce, I spruced up a traditional mayonnaise with miso and chive, which pair perfectly with the white wine reduction braising liquid and the pop of citrus flavor at the end.

Story and recipe by Amanda Elliott, chef-owner, Beet Box in Columbia, Missouri photography by kim wade

serves 4 to 6 Miso-Chive Dressing (Yields 2 cups) 2 eggs ¼ cup chopped chives 2 Tbsp yellow miso 1 Tbsp honey 1 clove garlic, grated 1½ cups olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Braised Leeks 3 Tbsp canola oil 5 leeks, greens cut, sliced in half, rinsed and cleaned of sand salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 Tbsp butter 1 cup white wine ½ cup miso-chive dressing (recipe follows) juice of ½ lemon 1 Tbsp chive microgreens, for garnish / preparation – miso-chive dressing / Combine eggs, chives, miso, honey and garlic in a blender. Begin to blend and then slowly add oil until mixture becomes stiff and holds together like mayonnaise.

Season with salt and pepper to taste. / preparation – braised leeks / Preheat oven to 350°F. In a large sauté pan over medium high heat, add oil. Once oil is hot, place leeks in pan cut-side down and season with salt and pepper to taste; cook, 3 to 4 minutes. Carefully flip leeks; cook, 3 minutes. Carefully flip leeks again; add butter and white wine. Cover pan and place in oven; cook, 20 to 23 minutes. Remove pan from oven and transfer leeks to a shallow serving dish. Peel off any tough outer layers and then top with dressing and lemon juice. Garnish with microgreens and serve warm.

pair with: American Wheat

PA I R IT!

Bright and bubbly Shiphead, an American wheat from Logboat Brewing Co. in Columbia, Missouri, keeps this rich, savory leek recipe in check. Its light ginger finish prepares your palate for another aromatic mouthful of this underappreciated vegetable, whose miso-chive dressing balances sweetness, saltiness and umami – an excellent foil to the beer’s strong lemon-citrus notes.

–JC Sandt logboatbrewing.com

22

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 0

ßraised Leeks ss e r D e iv h -C o is M y m a e r C with

ing

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•¼ chopped •cup ¼ cup chopped pecans chopped pecans pecans • 1 ½ cups •1½ •whole 1cups ½ cups whole wheat whole wheat flour wheat flour flour • ¼ cup • ¾ cup •¾ rolled •cup ¾ cup rolled oatsrolled oatsoats

• ¼ cup •¼ pure •cup ¼maple cup purepure maple syrup maple syrup syrup

• 1 ½ tsp •1½ baking • 1tsp ½ tsp baking powder baking powder powder

• ½ cup •½ milk •cup ½ cup milkmilk

• ½ tsp •½ salt •tsp ½ tsp saltsalt • ¼ tsp •¼ nutmeg •tsp ¼ tsp nutmeg nutmeg

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• ¾ tsp •¾ cinnamon •tsp ¾ tsp cinnamon cinnamon

• ½ cup •½ powdered •cup ½ cup powdered powdered sugar sugar sugar

• ½ cup •½ butter, •cup ½ cup butter, cold butter, coldcold

• ¼ tsp •¼ cinnamon •tsp ¼ tsp cinnamon cinnamon • 1 ½ apple •1½ • 1cored, apple ½ apple cored, peeled cored, peeled andpeeled andand chopped chopped chopped • 1–2 Tbsp • 1–2•milk 1–2 Tbsp Tbsp milkmilk PHOTO PROVIDED PHOTOBY PHOTO PROVIDED SITEMAN PROVIDED BY CENTER SITEMAN

BY SITEMAN CENTER CENTER

| Preparation | Preparation | Preparation | Preheat | Preheat oven | Preheat tooven 375˚F. oven to In 375˚F. to a large 375˚F. In abowl, large In a large combine bowl, bowl, combine dry combine ingredients. dry ingredients. dry ingredients.

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Nutrition Nutrition Information Nutrition Information Information (1 scone): (1 scone): 281 (1 scone): calories, 281 281 calories, 15g calories, fat,15g 149mg fat, 15g fat, 149mg sodium, 149mg sodium, 35g sodium, carbohydrate, 35g 35g carbohydrate, carbohydrate, 3g fiber, 3g4g fiber, 3g protein fiber, 4g protein 4g protein

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THE DISH / THE MIX / HOW-TO / SHOP HERE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / ON TREND / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

No-Fuss Focaccia

In this class, you’ll learn how to proof bread and really teach that dough who’s boss.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, social media has been ripe with stories and photographs of at-home culinary creations such as sourdough bread and homegrown green onions.

We’re proud of everyone’s renewed love of cooking and baking; in fact, you inspired this recipe for nofuss focaccia made with garlic and sweet Gorgonzola and topped with grapes and garden vegetables.

Made with love, it can be dropped at your neighbor’s doorstep, given to someone in need or savored with your family and friends.

Written by Gabrielle DeMichele Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Get Hands-On Join Schnucks Cooking School director Gay DeMichele on Zoom at 5pm on Wed., Sept. 30 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu.

For more information on everything you’ll need for the virtual class – from cookware to ingredients – contact the cooking school directly. nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704 24

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 0

serves 4 to 6

1 package (approximately 2¼ tsp) active dry yeast

2 tsp sugar 6¼ cups bread flour

1 Tbsp kosher salt ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for hands and plastic wrap

1 Tbsp unsalted butter 2 to 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

3 oz Gorgonzola Dolce, crumbled / preparation / In a large bowl, whisk together yeast, sugar and 2½ cups lukewarm water; let sit, 5 minutes. (The mixture should begin to bubble and/or foam.) In a separate bowl, whisk together flour and salt; add to yeast-water mixture and mix until thoroughly incorporated, creating a rough dough. With oiled hands, knead dough until it becomes elastic and looks smooth, approximately 2 minutes.

Grease a large, clean bowl with ¼ cup olive oil.

Carefully add dough and cover bowl with plastic wrap; set in a warm place to rise (your cool oven

with the light on is perfect), 1 hour or until dough has doubled in size. For a slow rise, place bowl in refrigerator, 4 to 8 hours or overnight.

When dough is almost done rising, prepare pan: a rimmed baking sheet (13 by 18 inches) or, for focaccia thick enough for sandwiches, a jelly roll pan (10½ by 15½ inches). Coat bottom of pan with butter; add 2 tablespoons oil to the center.

Once dough has doubled in size, uncover and transfer to prepared pan, pouring in any excess oil. Slightly flatten dough. Scatter garlic and Gorgonzola Dolce over half and then fold dough in half. Turn pan and fold dough in half again. Cover dough with oiled plastic wrap and let rest, 10 minutes. With oiled hands, stretch dough to fit pan. (Be careful to not open any holes in the dough.) If dough springs back, let rest, 10 more minutes, and then try again.

Once dough has been stretched, cover again with oiled plastic wrap and continue to let rise in a warm place.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 425ºF. When dough has risen to the top of the rim, oil your fingertip and make holes down to the pan all over the dough. Arrange desired toppings on top; drizzle with remaining oil. Bake focaccia until golden brown, 25 to 35 minutes. Remove from oven and let rest in pan, 10 minutes. Using a large metal spatula, carefully transfer focaccia to wire rack to cool further. When you’re ready, slice and serve.

 Chef’s Tip: Top this no-fuss focaccia with any ingredients you desire, from cherry tomatoes to seedless grapes and mini sweet peppers to scallions.

MAKE THE MEAL • • • •

No-Fuss Focaccia Tuna and White Bean Salad Hummus with Grilled Naan and Crudités Fresh Strawberry Cake

CULINARY LIBRARY /

southwest missouri

with Brad Leighninger, founder and co-owner,

Gettin’ Basted and Downing Street Pour House tBrad Leighninger is a busy man. After entering the competitive barbecue world in 2012, he

started a food truck, Gettin’ Basted, which has expanded into two brick-and-mortar locations: one in Branson, Missouri, and another that opened earlier this year in Nixa, Missouri. Leighninger is also the founder and co-owner of Downing Street Pour House, which dubs itself “an American smoke and fire interpretation of the classic pub.” The original is in Hollister, Missouri, but a second, much-anticipated location debuted in Springfield, Missouri, this summer. Matt Arnall, a franchisee, will run it. With four restaurants, Leighninger says quality is still paramount. The self-taught pitmaster devours cookbooks the way others do novels or newspapers – he’s even writing his own. Here, he shares three that keep him on his game. –Juliana Goodwin

How to Cook Everything by Mark Bittman (1998)

Mexico One Plate at a Time

by Rick Bayless, Deann Groen Bayless and JeanMarie Brownson (2000)

every now and then and read it.”

“This cookbook is a great [guide] to get outside of

“[How to Cook Everything] is an encyclopedia of how to make this or that

I’m Just Here for the Food by Alton Brown (2002)

what we think Mexican food is. A lot of times in a specific [cuisine], such as Mexican or Italian, we

“It’s not just recipes; it’s a lot of reasons why Brown does [certain] things.

get caught up in the ingredients. It’s not about the

The science of [cooking] and knowing why you are doing something –

ingredients; it’s about the technique and fundamental

that makes it repeatable outside of following a recipe.”

thought of food. Rick gets that.”

photography by aaron clark

with different techniques. It has really good information. I still pull it out

DISCOVER UNEXPECTED EXCELLENCE

www.robllerwines.com 275 RobLLeR vineyaRd Road, new haven mo. 63068 • 573-237-3986

/ s e pt e mbe r 2 02 0

25

THE DISH / THE MIX / HOW-TO / SHOP HERE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / ON TREND / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

tapples apples Arkansas Black We all know Granny Smiths from Honeycrisps, but when was the last time you bit into an apple and really paid attention to its texture and more subtle flavors?

Dating back to the 1840s, the Arkansas Black cultivar is crunchy and tart, perfect for cider and baked goods. One of the best keepers, its burgundy skin turns almost black over time, and its gorgeous flavor only gets better with age.

Idared A relatively new cultivar, the Idared, developed at the University of Idaho, was released to the

This month, during peak apple season, take the time to savor your bounty, whether bought at a local farmers’ market or plucked from the trees at a regional u-pick orchard. story and recipe by Shannon Weber,

market in 1942. Half green, half red and all tart, its flavor blossoms when baked – and you have plenty of time to figure out what to cook with your haul, as Idareds keep for as long as eight months with proper storage.

Ozark Gold Gold is right: Grown in the Missouri Ozarks, Ozark Golds are so vibrantly yellow they

writer and recipe developer,

practically shimmer. The summer apple

aperiodictableblog.com

boasts a honey-vanilla flavor with tart

photography by Jennifer Silverberg

undertones and a balanced crispness.

Speak the Lingo Learn this vocabulary before you head to the apple orchard

26

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 0

Many apple cultivars are the result

In nature, apples can

of crossbreeding. The joining of two

just happen. A pippin

different cultivars, or parents, can

is an apple that’s

improve the storage capabilities, flavor,

generated without

texture and yield of the new cultivar.

intentional breeding.

Of the 7,500 known apple cultivars worldwide, 2,500 are grown domestically – 1,000 of which are grown for mass market and available year-round. Those are chosen for durability, longevity and yield, but they’re not always the best things out there. If you happen upon one of the following beauties, don’t hesitate to give it a chance – you might be pleasantly surprised by what you taste.

Pick a Peck If apple picking isn’t already a part of your fall routine, the time to change that is now. Weaving your way through aromatic orchards of fruit-laden trees, you’ll have the opportunity to pluck varieties that never grace grocery store shelves while supporting local family farms. Stop by one of these a-peel-ing spots in Missouri

Dudley Winter

Green Cheese

Grown across New England and Canada, Dudley

Green Cheese is heralded not only for its

Winters have a yellow-green hue splashed with

abundant juice and crisp, quintessential apple

vibrant red. Firm enough for fritters and pies but

flavor but for its keeping ability and late

tender enough to eat raw, they’re juicy, fragrant

blooming season, which allows it to escape any

and the perfect size for caramel apples.

late spring frosts. Use it for salads and slaws.

and Illinois and snag an entire bushel.

Open mid-August through early November

A visit to one of Eckert’s farms during any growing season is a pleasant experience, but in the fall, when the air is cool and the apples abound, it’s practically a requirement. With 11 popular cultivars – from Granny Smith to Suncrisp and Honeycrisp to Pixie Crunch – spread out over its three locations, you’re likely to find some you fancy. eckerts.com

The oldest known apple cultivar originating

1700s, Newtown Pippin sprouted accidentally

in the U.S., the first Roxbury Russet came as

(hence “Pippin” in the name) in what is now the

a surprise, but English settlers subsequently

New York City borough of Queens. At home

planted acres and acres in the Massachusetts

in any application, the colonial-era cultivar is

Bay Colony. Its keeping ability combined with

acidic, bracingly crisp and produces crystal

sturdy flavor and texture make it ideal for

Hickory Ridge Orchard

clear juice.

anything: eating, baking or making cider.

Mexico, Missouri

originally grew on Cherokee land and is

that’s delicious on its own, but they

grown exclusively in the Appalachian region

can also be dried to make apple chips.

to this day. Its briskness and firm texture make it a favorite for both eating and baking.

orchardweston.com

Open mid-August through early November

Located in southwest Missouri, Murphy Orchards grows a whole gamut of fresh produce, from apples to watermelon and blueberries to peaches. Its selection of 14 apple cultivars includes Braeburn, Cameo, Jonagold and Lura Red – when you drop by to pick your own, don’t forget to grab some frozen apple cider as well. murphyorchard.com

Schweizer Orchards

St. Joseph, Missouri

With sunset-hued skin, the Nickajack apple

With 17,000 apple trees spanning 15 acres, there’s plenty of fruit to go around at Historic Weston Orchard & Vineyard. Dwarf trees make it possible for even the littlest of little ones to pick, and you can choose from 12 varieties, including EverCrisp, Jonagold and Rome Beauty. The orchard also offers tours, which give participants insight into how apples and other fruits are grown.

Marionville, Missouri

Roxbury Russet

Russets have crisp, sugary flesh

Open August through early November

Murphy Orchards

Newtown Pippin

Identified by heavy russeting, Golden

Belleville, Grafton and Millstadt, Illinois

Sometime between the late 1600s and the early

Nickajack

Weston, Missouri

Eckert’s

Golden Russet

Historic Weston Orchard & Vineyard

Open early September through early November

One of the last u-pick apple orchards in central Missouri, Hickory Ridge Orchard was created by Brandt and Kelsey Schisler in 2017. The couple grows approximately 18 varieties of apples, including Cortland, Empire, GoldRush and Winesap, throughout the year. Due to an unexpected hailstorm, the u-pick apple experience is closed for the season, but visitors can still pick pumpkins, buy bags of the orchard’s apples and indulge in its delicious raw cider. hickoryridgeorchards.com

Keeper describes how well an apple cultivar

Russeting causes matte brown coloring

WNOTE: Inclement weather and a less-than-

stores over time. Poor keepers should be

to appear on the skin of certain apple

stellar growing season, along with other

eaten soon after picking; when stored properly,

varieties. Seen by shiny apple-devotees

factors, might affect orchards’ pick-your-own

excellent keepers stay good longer and

as a negative, it’s simply a natural aesthetic

experiences. Be sure to call or check websites

sometimes even improve in flavor or texture.

that has no bearing on quality or flavor.

and social media before leaving home.

Open mid-August until first freeze

A fourth-generation family farm, Schweizer Orchards values tradition and grows a wide assortment of edible delights. Of its 21 apple cultivars, keep a lookout for Jonathan, Lodi and Pink Lady. schweizerorchards.com

Thierbach Orchards & Berry Farm

Marthasville, Missouri Open weekends in September and October

Owned by Otto and Susie Thierbach, Thierbach Orchards & Berry Farm has three locations, all within an hour of St. Louis. The apple orchard features 16 cultivars such as Empire and Jonagold, but you might not have heard of one of the most beloved: Mutsu, a popular dessert variety in its native Japan, is a cross between the Golden Delicious and the Indo cultivars and has a sweet honey undertone. thierbachorchards.com

/ s e pt e mbe r 2 02 0

27

THE DISH / THE MIX / HOW-TO / SHOP HERE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / ON TREND / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

3

How About Them Apples? t

Braeburn Tart – but with less acidity than Granny Smiths – and extra juicy

tCortland

Simultaneously sweet and tart, juicy and doesn’t brown as quickly as other cultivars

tFuji

Sweet and juicy with keeping ability but often overlooked as a baking apple – don’t make that mistake

tGranny Smith

Tart and acidic with a sharp flavor similar to sour candy

tHoneycrisp

The sweetest of the bunch with honey flavor and a juicy crunch

tJonagold/Jonathan

If you’re interested in doing more with your apples than eating them with a smear of peanut butter, consider the following cultivars. Better for baking, these apples can handle the heat and hold their own in pies, strudels, muffins and more. Also, rather than losing flavor and turning to mush, their flavor and texture often improves when baked.

Tricks of the Trade Cutting into any ingredient, including apples, damages its cells and tissues. When oxygen hits the injured areas, chemicals react, compounds form and before you can say, “Waldorf salad,” your apples have started to brown. What to do? The solution couldn’t be simpler: All you need is water plus one of the following ingredients to keep your beautiful apples from turning to the dark side.

Lemon, Pineapple or Apple Juice Lemon juice is a classic choice because its tartness is a welcome addition to apple desserts. Pineapple juice and vitamin C-fortified apple juice work just as well without as much residual flavor. Add approximately 1 tablespoon of juice for every cup of water.

Citric Acid Add a splash of lemon-lime soda to a glass of water and dunk your freshly sliced apples in the mixture to keep browning at bay.

Honey Certain compounds found in honey block the oxidation process, which means your apples stay clean and clear.

Whisk in a tablespoon for every cup of water used.

Mostly sweet yet slightly tart

tMutsu

Tart and sharp but with sweet undertones and a heady aroma

tPink Lady

Salt This is not the most popular option – salty apples just seem wrong – but it does the trick. Use approximately ¹⁄₈ tsp kosher salt for every cup of water and remember to rinse the apples before adding them to a recipe.

Balanced sweet-tart flavor and a juicy, blush pink flesh that adds gorgeous color to applesauce

tWinesap

Deep, complex flavor – spicy and cider-like

28

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 0

Water If nothing else is available, cover the surface of cut apples with a thin layer of water – water’s surface tension will stop oxygen from getting in and starting trouble.

This is strudel the Austrian way, with featherlight layers of pastry supporting the star of the show: apples. Phyllo dough can be infuriating, but if you work slowly, it’s also forgiving, especially in this recipe.

Refer back to the baking section and use any of those apples here.

The Flakiest Apple-Ginger Strudel serves 8 to 10 6

½ ½ ¹⁄₃

1 16 9

medium semi-tart or tart baking apples, cored, peeled and cut into ¹⁄₈-inch slices cup granulated sugar Keep apple slices in cup slivered blanched almonds acidulated water to cup crystallized ginger, finely chopped prevent browning. zest of 1 medium lemon, finely chopped juice of 1 medium lemon, strained large pinch kosher salt 9-by-14-inch sheets phyllo dough, thawed in refrigerator Tbsp ghee, melted and cooled slightly confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 375°F. Add apples, sugar, almonds, ginger, lemon zest, lemon juice and salt to a large mixing bowl; with a spatula, gently toss to combine. Place a large sheet of parchment paper on work surface.

Unroll sheets of phyllo dough, one at a time, and set on parchment paper in 2 stacks of 8 sheets; cover stacks with a kitchen towel. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and, working with 1 stack at a time on one side of baking sheet, lay 1 sheet phyllo on top; brush with ghee. Repeat process with 7 remaining sheets of phyllo, layering them one on top of the other. Carefully pour half of the apple mixture onto phyllo stack, leaving a 2- to 3-inch border on all sides. Fold in short sides of phyllo and then roll lengthwise into a log, ending seam-side down. Repeat process with second stack on the other side of baking sheet. Center strudels on baking sheet; bake until apples are tender and cooked through and pastry is golden brown, 40 to 45 minutes. Remove from oven; transfer entire pan to wire rack to cool slightly and allow juices to settle. / to serve / Use a mesh strainer to sift confectioners’ sugar over top of strudels. Cut strudels into thick slices and serve warm.

/ s e pt e mbe r 2 02 0

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Cooking with Joe Kabob Recipe Ingredients: • 1/2 cup canola oil • 1/4 cup soy sauce • 3 tablespoons honey • 2 tablespoons white vinegar • 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger • 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder • 1-1/2 pounds beef top sirloin steak, cut into 1-inch cubes

• 1/2 pound whole fresh mushrooms • 2 medium onions, cut into wedges • 1 medium sweet red pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces • 1 medium green pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces • 1 medium yellow summer squash, cut into 1/2-inch slices • Hot cooked rice.

Directions: 1. In a large bowl, combine first six ingredients. Add beef; turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate 8 hours or overnight.

2. On 12 metal or soaked wooden skewers, alternately thread beef and vegetables; discard marinade. Grill kabobs covered, over medium heat until beef reaches desired doneness, 10-12 minutes, turning occasionally. Serve with rice.

Head to our website to plan your next shopping trip to Kenrick’s Meats.

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We Accept Food Stamps / s e pt e mbe r 2 02 0

31

Perfectingpivot the

It’s said that necessity is the mother of invention, and this summer, Missouri’s food and drink industries proved the old adage true.

As bars and restaurants across the region were forced to rethink their operations amid the COVID-19 pandemic, many responded swiftly, in downright creative ways.

From frozen pizzas and batch cocktails to virtual cooking classes and wine tastings, the ingenuity shown was remarkable.

virtual cooking classes

C

rispy Edge, the popular potsticker restaurant located in the Tower Grove South neighborhood of St. Louis, began hosting potsticker-

These innovations have kept us connected to the local food scene for the past few months, and we hope they stick around for good.

making classes in August 2019. They became such a hit that, even amid the COVID-19 pandemic, founder and owner David Dresner and director of operations Jesse Stuart knew the show had to go on. Instead of cancelling the sold-out class on April 8 – a little more than two weeks after local stay-at-home orders went into effect – they switched it to a virtual class, which was all in all a success. Classes are held via Zoom so that Dresner, who hosts from his home kitchen, can see his “apprentices,” if they choose to turn on their camera, and they can see him and anyone else sharing their video. A few days before each class, participants can pick up their potsticker-making kit – you can also choose to have it delivered – which includes a premade dough ball and sweet and savory fillings to save on time, paired with flour, oil and sauces. The only other tools you need are something to roll out the dough, something round to cut out each wrapper, a steamer or pot of boiling water to cook the potstickers and a frying pan to crisp them. The kit also comes with your choice of flavor of frozen potstickers from Crispy Edge – so you can see how yours compare to those of the pros. –Rachel Huffman crispyedge.com

grocery boxes

Owner Dave Bailey and his team jumped into

available. One includes dozens of pounds of fresh

action to support their customers, easing

produce; another features local eggs, bread, shredded

at least some of their worries by offering

cheese and chicken breast or Hungry Planet

household staples, including toilet paper and

plant-based meat. The Creature Comforts

hand sanitizer, as well as grocery boxes at

Box and the All the Staples + Some

the pandemic began, but Baileys’ Restaurants’

the South Grand location of brunch hotspot

Box both add extra products –

supply chains remained uninterrupted.

Rooster. Today, four grocery boxes are

and pizzazz – to the list.

G

rocery store supplies quickly dwindled when

sT. LOUIS PHOTOGRAPHY BY JUDD DEMaline

32

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 0

st. louis frozen pizzas

K

Italian meal kit service], was still open, and we

Pizza and Pasta Osteria, have built

also have experience packaging and delivering

their business with open-mindedness,

food, so we used all of that knowledge for this

resourcefulness, teamwork and heart. When

idea,” says Katie. Tested, perfected and

COVID-19 reached St. Louis, their approach

family-approved, the frozen pizzas come

to the pandemic was no different. Besides

in eight flavors. The sausage and pepper

offering contact-free delivery and curbside

arrabiatta pizza features Salume Beddu

pickup options for its regular menu, Katie’s

salsiccia fiama, colorful sweet peppers and

also began selling frozen versions of its wood-

fior di latte cheese, while the artichoke and

fired pizzas. For the couple, the frozen pizzas

black garlic butter pizza boasts housemade

are just one more way to create job security

black garlic butter, Baetje Farms goat cheese

for their 130 employees, keep their staff and

and local honey to drizzle on top, to name just

customers healthy, feed their community

a few of your choices. “Anybody who loves

and keep the lights on at both area locations

Katie’s, this is a way for them to have the

of their beloved Italian restaurant. “We did

comfort of our pizzas at home,” says Katie.

prototypes of frozen pizzas when Vero, [our

–R.H. katiespizza.com

atie and Ted Collier, owners of Katie’s

curbside cocktails

T

o-go cocktails are now an easy way for local establishments to boost their bottom line –

and provide customers with some superior sips. But just days after Mission Taco Joint first began selling its signature Mission Margarita for curbside pickup, the Missouri Division of Alcohol and Tobacco Control (ATC) cracked down on to-go cocktail sales at local spots. Before COVID-19, state law required alcohol that was sold to go to be in its original packaging – no premixed concoctions allowed. Mission Taco Joint’s Adam Tilford and Satchmo’s Bar & Grill’s Benjamin Brown both spoke up on the issue, and after serious lobbying from the Missouri Restaurant Association, restrictions on the sale of premade cocktails have been relaxed through the end of the year – although the association hopes that this can become a permanent fixture to help restaurants stay afloat. Under these temporary rules, Missouri establishments are allowed to repackage alcohol, albeit only when following some specific guidelines. Drinks must be packaged in durable, leakproof and sealable containers, which must meet the size requirements already established in the state regulations. Containers must also be sealed with something tamper-proof such as tape or a bag. Drinks must be ordered in conjunction with food, and customers must receive a dated receipt along with their purchase. Places such as Mission Taco Joint have quickly adapted, however, and across the state, you can now pick up bespoke beverages – shaken, stirred and frozen – to savor at home.

–Kasey Carlson missiontacojoint.com; satchmosgrill.com

The idea has evolved since its inception, and

75 from POP Sparkling Bar & Restaurant.

the latter boxes now include specialty products

Although some might not be ready to dine

from the group of restaurants such as the

out, Bailey says he still wants fans to have

secret sauce from Rooster, chocolate chip

access to the flavors they love. “We want

cookie dough from Baileys’ Chocolate Bar and

to be able to get those products to them in

cocktail kits to make drinks such as the boozy

a way that’s comfortable,” he says. –K.c.

lemonade from Baileys’ Range and the French

baileysrestaurants.com

/ s e pt e mbe r 2 02 0

33

st. louis gourmet meals

nudo house

Vietnamese chicken salad

for health care workers patty ' s cheesecakes

Cheesecake brownie sandwich

J

uwan Rice has always loved to cook for others. The chef, who just graduated

high school last year, started cooking when he was 6, began selling his own desserts at age 12 and launched his own business, JR’s Gourmet, a few years later. Rice was working as the sous chef of Bait, the acclaimed Central West End seafood restaurant, when COVID-19 hit the area this spring. After the restaurant temporarily closed, he reestablished JR’s Gourmet in a curbside capacity as a way to pay the bills. To make use of his extra product, he then launched Feeding the Frontline STL, which provides gourmet meals to health care workers around the St. Louis area. In the first two months of the program, Rice delivered more than 700 meals to health care workers across St. Louis. He targets a different area of the city each week, but the meals are always made from scratch, with an emphasis on lighter fare to keep the workers energized throughout the day – think quinoa and grilled chicken salad or a chipotle bowl with cilantro-lime rice, mango-habanero salsa and grilled adobo chicken. “That’s what keeps me motivated,” he says. “Because of course I’m not making any proceeds off of it, but I get proceeds when I see just how excited people are to finally take a break. Some of these people are working 12-hour shifts during the pandemic, so they finally get a break; they get a good meal. They really, really enjoy it once we make our deliveries.” –Heather Riske instagram.com/jrs_gourmet seoul taco

Bulgogi steak gogi bowl

from Nudo House. This summer, as the company looked for more tangible ways to support the Black community, Schnucks expanded the program to include significantly more Black-owned businesses,

ready - to - eat

including Cathy’s Kitchen, Ms. Piggies’ Smokehouse,

local dishes

this has been the most rewarding thing I’ve done in

Patty’s Cheesecakes and Royally Baked. “For me, a very long time,” says Andy DeCou, who runs the specialty cheese category for Schnucks in addition

S

upporting local restaurants is now as easy

on the cover

34

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 0

to building partnerships with local restaurants.

“Our company’s internal message is, ‘We’re here to nourish people’s lives,’ and that’s more than just

as grocery shopping at Schnucks. The COVID-19

selling groceries. This is not a profit-generator for

pandemic has dealt a devastating blow to local

us at all. Schnucks, being a local company, we were

food producers and restaurants, and right away, the

looking at other local restaurants and retailers and

supermarket chain stepped up to help them stay

thinking how we can help and what we can do to lift

afloat. Across St. Louis area stores, you’ll now find

these guys up with COVID and the racial tension. At

ready-to-eat products, including gogi bowls from

the heart, that’s it – we really want to do something

Seoul Taco, longanisa (Filipino pork sausage) from

to help these restaurants that are struggling.”

The Fattened Caf and Vietnamese chicken salad

–H.R. nourish.schnucks.com

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35

S

bottling the coffee shop’s draft lattes, but it

to safeguard her employees and customers

was deemed too labor-intensive; during the

while keeping her business afloat, Michelle

pandemic, it became her most viable business

Billionis, owner of The Coffee Ethic in Springfield,

idea – an attainable revenue stream that she

Missouri, found that the key to survival was only

couldn’t afford to ignore. In collaboration

a bottle cap away, but she needed to act fast.

with David Soper, chief production officer of

Prior to the pandemic, Billionis had considered

Mother’s Brewing Co., Billionis started bottling

implementing an online ordering app and

The Coffee Ethic’s signature cold-brew blend,

uddenly burdened with the responsibility

bottled lattes

grill packs

A

lthough Aviary Cafe temporarily closed for

regular service in late March, it kept its pantry open, selling crates of dairy products, baking essentials and more to loyal, hungry customers. Then, in April, the casual café stepped things up a notch: It began promoting grill packs, which feature regionally sourced protein and a KUDU Grill to cook it on. “The grill packs became very popular, mostly because [of] the grill itself … It’s so much fun to cook on,” says general manager Brandon Zacarias. The creation of the KUDU Open Fire Grill was inspired by the South African art of outdoor cooking. A traditional braai (rhymes with “cry”) – a social custom which loosely entails roasting meat over an open flame using wood or charcoal as fuel and eating it outside – and a Midwestern barbecue might seem like one and the same to a novice, but they are not synonymous. The KUDU Grill – made with the finest materials and an intricate design that allows you to smoke, sear, sauté, fry, boil and steam all at once – is manufactured in Springfield, Missouri, and gives users the opportunity to experience something similar to a braai. Aviary owners have partnered with the brand, which is one of the reasons their customers have been able to purchase the grill packs for $299 – approximately $300 less than retail price. “The proteins we offer are very good quality, and we wanted to offer them in a way that people could go home and cook them themselves,” says Zacarias. Throughout the state, especially in this area – and especially at this moment in time – residents are grilling and dining outside every chance they get, so Zacarias says the grill packs not only delight customers but also meet their needs.

–Ren Bishop Luebbering aviarycafe.com

springfield PHOTOGRAPHY BY tessa cooper

36

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 0

Springfield Remedy, along with custom latte flavors such

orders for her. She has also been delivering

as the rich and chocolaty Orange Mocha Latte,

lattes and whole-bean coffee bags to fans in

the dairy-free Spiced Vanilla Oat Milk Latte and

the area several times a week. The customer

the warming Chai Latte. To get the new line of

response has been overwhelmingly positive,

to-go products out the door and into customers’

and now that she’s uncapped The Coffee

hands, Billionis adopted a pickup window model

Ethic’s potential, Billionis says she’s prepared

at the shop in downtown Springfield and let

to continue bottling select drinks for as long as

Joe, the mobile coffee ordering app, take some

possible. –Claire Porter thecoffeeethic.com

virtual wine tastings

W

wine-drinker, it’s neat to see the love they put

went into effect, Matt Bekebrede, owner of

into [their craft].” How do the virtual tastings

Vino Cellars – a wine lounge, restaurant and

work? On the day of the tasting, participants

retail shop with a location in Springfield,

pick up wine and food from Vino Cellars; that

Missouri, and one just north of Kimberling

night, they learn about the selection as well as

City, Missouri – immediately started thinking

the participating vineyard or wine company

of ways to create buzz and revenue for his

via Zoom. The wine always differs, as do the

business. He sent out email blasts, offering

pairings. Some tastings include a charcuterie

discounted wine packs, delivery and a modern

board while others boast a three-course meal

twist on the TV dinner, but what really excited

that can be heated up throughout the event.

people were his virtual wine tastings, the first

The virtual wine tastings have helped boost

of which he hosted with Bokisch Vineyards

Vino Cellars’ bottom line, and Bekebrede

in Lodi, California. “It was phenomenal,” says

plans to continue them. “They’ve been very

Bekebrede. “People enjoyed being able to

successful,” he says. “They’re a good way to stay

connect with the winemaker. When you’re a

connected.” –Juliana Goodwin vcellars.com

hen the Missouri stay-at-home order

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37

chef - prepared meals

C

herry Street Cellar has made it possible to enjoy

a chef-prepared meal from the comfort of your own home with Chef Share, the restaurant’s subscription meal service. Unlike the majority of established meal services, Chef Share meals are fully prepared by executive chef and co-owner Ali Ratcliffe-Bauer; all you have to do is heat and serve. For $59 per person (plus a $5 delivery fee per household), the subscription includes three entrées, a large salad and something sweet to get you through the week.

Just as the restaurant’s menu changes with the season, featuring fresh produce and locally sourced

reimagined restaurant

meat from area farms, so does Chef Share’s.

Past menus have included healthy and delicious dishes such as chicken paillards (lightly marinated, dredged and pan-seared chicken breast paired with a summery corn and white bean relish) and sweet and spicy braised pork (Patchwork Family Farms

F

or almost a decade, Catalpa, Liz Huff’s fine-dining restaurant

week. Don’t expect to eat traditional drive-thru fare at Catalpa,

and honey and then slowly braised until tender,

in Arrow Rock, Missouri, served as an intimate setting for diners

though; Huff buys a whole cow at a time from a local farmer and

served with sesame broccoli, kimchi and jasmine

to share a meal and close conversation with family, friends and

uses it in its entirety – prime cuts and all – to make the beef

rice). Every week, Ratcliffe-Bauer and her team also

first dates. Sadly, the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic and

burgers. Turkey, ahi tuna, mahi mahi and Impossible burgers are

create tempting à la carte add-ons such as breakfast

subsequent social distancing spoiled that facet of the eatery’s

also on the menu. Order one “your way” and pick your toppings, or

frittatas, soups, sides and other snacks. Ordering for

charm. But this is not the first – and it certainly won’t be the last –

choose from several specials such as the German (Havarti cheese

a picky eater? Smaller, simpler entrées such as pasta

challenge Huff has faced during her career, and she wasn’t about

and brown sugar and garlic sauerkraut topped with Catalpa pink

Alfredo with broccoli and grilled lemony chicken with

to let it get her down. In June, after a month-long hibernation,

sauce) or the Desert Breeze (fresh cucumbers and pickled red

herb-roasted potatoes and green beans are available

Catalpa reemerged as an outdoor fast-casual burger joint.

onion drizzled with prickly pear sauce). Pair your burger with a

as well for $30 per child. Although Cherry Street

Entirely prompted by the pandemic, Huff never expected her

frozen cocktail or boozy milkshake – we recommend the Pink

Cellar’s dining room capacity and hours of operation

customers – or herself – to love the concept as much as they do.

Squirrel made with amaretto and crème de cacao – which, with

will ebb and flow with the pandemic, curbside pickup

In the first week, she prepared burgers and buns for a five-day

the upcoming addition of a covered patio and more seating,

and the Chef Share service will continue into the

stretch; she sold out in two. And throughout the summer, she’s

you’ll be able to enjoy long after summer’s end. –Jessica Vaughn

foreseeable future. –J.V.M. cherrystreetcellar.com

sold approximately 700 burgers Thursday through Sunday each

Martin facebook.com/catalparestaurant photo by travis ewart

photo by kim wade

38

pork marinated in ginger, garlic, Korean chile paste

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 0

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ast fall, when David and Mariah Boatright, the husband-and-wife team responsible for Fed

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instead of filling wholesale orders, they could never have predicted how much they would benefit from that decision. In the spring of this year, as COVID-19 upended the industrial food supply chain and stores of all sizes began limiting the sales of certain meat products, the demand for Fed From The Farm meat – grass-finished beef and lamb and pasture-raised pork and poultry – increased by 400 percent in three weeks, according to David. With the expansion of their delivery service, the Boatrights had no problem keeping up with orders from near and

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far – bulk bundles of flash-frozen meat from their mid-Missouri operation made it onto tables from New York City to Washington state, feeding families whose local markets and grocery stores were sold out of the protein they needed. The regenerative agriculture and sustainability efforts that set the Boatrights’ farm apart have also factored into their tailored shipping strategy, which includes the use of recyclable boxes and paperboard insulation, a repurposeable

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vapor liner and dry ice. Heading into fall, Fed From The Farm will maintain its delivery service and continue to add to its long list of regional pickup locations, ensuring that its growing cohort of customers always has access to safe, nutrient-dense, humanely raised meat and, in turn, peace of mind during these uncertain times. –J.V.M. fedfromthefarm.com

photo by kim wade

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39

produce delivery

L

iberty Fruit Co., a Kansas City wholesaler that

offers hand-selected premium brand fruits and vegetables, has been working with Farmbox Direct, a

bottle shop

national produce delivery service, for approximately six years. Working with Missouri- and Kansas-based farms whenever possible, in addition to farms across the country and the world, Liberty Fruit sources all of the fresh produce for Farmbox Direct and then

A

therefore purchases of that

packages and ships the assembled boxes. Although

Leslie Newsam Goellner has

nature instantly help the bottom line. The model also

COVID-19 hit Missouri, its Farmbox Direct business

curated one of the freshest

benefits consumers, who have

and most thoughtful wine lists

the chance to purchase quality

in Kansas City. On March 21,

bottles – that aren’t always

when Mayor Quinton Lucas

available in grocery stores or

issued a shelter-in-place order

even specialty wine shops –

in response to the COVID-19

at lower prices than they’d

pandemic, it was that same

typically pay in the dining

list that inspired the full-

room. Here, that includes a

service restaurant’s quick

selection of rare orange and

transformation into a wine-

rosé wines; bottles from small,

focused bottle shop and café

independent producers; and

offering new food and drink

a variety of bottled cocktails

t The Antler Room, co-owner

menus for curbside pickup. The bottle shop model, dubbed

and wine “flights,” which offer three bottles of wine

Leslie’s Liquors, allowed Goellner and her business

under various themes. “It’s just fun to be able to do this

partner and husband, Nick, who runs the kitchen of The

and know that [customers don’t] have to spend as much

Antler Room, an alternative revenue stream during the

money,” says Goellner. The plan is to keep Leslie’s Liquors

crisis. Unlike a finished dish, selling customers a stocked

running even as The Antler Room slowly resumes more

bottle of wine costs a restaurant nothing, essentially, and

traditional operations. –Liz Miller theantlerroomkc.com

Liberty Fruit’s restaurant sales plummeted when went through the roof, and third-generation owner Allen Caviar and CEO John McClelland say they are grateful to be able to serve their customers in a new way. To keep up with demand, they have even had to hire more people – a rare but welcome move given the current situation. Ashley Tyrner, founder and CEO of Farmbox Direct, says she ultimately leaves it up to Liberty Fruit to determine what to include in the weekly boxes; the contents are generally based on the season and what will ship well, but a typical box contains apples, citrus fruits, rainbow carrots, special varieties of leaf lettuce and tomatoes, alongside more seasonal items such as asparagus, peaches and cherries. Chosen to be a part of the USDA Farmers to Families Food Box Program, Liberty Fruit Co. has also been packing boxes of fresh fruits and vegetables, plus dairy boxes, and delivering them to food pantries, schools and churches to feed families in need during this difficult time. –Jenny Vergara libertyfruit.com

kansas city PHOTOGRAPHY BY pilsen photo co-op

40

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 0

kansas city wineries and distilleries pivot to curbside services while also promoting those

online ordering

that already offered takeout. The site’s database grew rapidly, today featuring more than 1,200 businesses, and was no small undertaking for Lehman, who balances site maintenance on top of her normal work week. “It was definitely a

F

labor of love, because I care so much

or years, Danielle Lehman has

about my friends in the hospitality

been placing takeout orders at

industry,” she says. “I felt really helpless

restaurants that don’t offer takeout.

and just wanted to do something to

“I’m the type of person who always

support their businesses.” Lehman has

tries to order takeout from high-end

also helped coordinate restaurant pop

restaurants – which is probably super

ups that donate meals to out-of-work

annoying to them – because I have

hospitality professionals. With the third

a kid and we don’t get to go out very

season of her podcast on hold for a

often,” she says. In March, as Kansas

few months due to COVID-19, Lehman

City restaurants were forced to

approached her sponsor, ChowNow,

temporarily close for dine-in service,

about sponsoring weekly meals for

Lehman’s thoughts turned to the

40 to 50 workers. “It was great for the

local restaurants she knew didn’t

restaurants because there was an influx

have established takeout menus or

of cash, but many were generous and

online ordering. Already connected to

hardly charged enough to cover their

the restaurant industry through her

costs – they just wanted to be part of it.

podcast, Open Belly, Lehman launched

It was really cool to see the generosity

Curbside KC, a website dedicated

of people wanting to take care of their

to helping restaurants, breweries,

friends and family.” –L.M. curbsidekc.com

gourmet food market

A

mong stay-at-home orders and escalating problems caused by COVID-19, Ben

Cascio, owner of Cafe Europa in the Crestwood Shops, looked to his grandparents’ grocery business for inspiration and decided to turn his restaurant into a market.

Gone are the tables and chairs, replaced by new custom wood shelves and coolers, which give the space the look of an upscale gourmet food market. With the help of his culinary team, Cascio started selling Cafe Europa’s greatest hits, including tomato-basil soup, quiche, chicken salad and the sought-after lemon cake, as graband-go items. Soon, he expanded his offerings to include pantry staples such as olive oil, balsamic vinegar, Italian sodas, fresh produce and pasta. Although patrons can now take home cooked-to-order meals such as burgers and wood-fired pizzas as well, Cascio says it’s the sales from the market that have exceeded his expectations and given his restaurant the chance to live another day. –J.V. cafeeuropakc.com

/ s e pt e mbe r 2 02 0

41

kansas city spaghetti cacio e pepe and bucatini carbonara. Then COVID-19 hit, forcing them to close both dining

redesigned dining room

rooms for two months. Fortunately, the restaurants’ dining rooms have been able to open again, and the pair has a plan in place to keep guests safe. At Farina, they did what many restaurants have done: They removed seating and have socially distanced the remaining furniture. The staff goes through

B

y all accounts, 2020 should have been another

t - shirts and more for a cause

F

rom the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, Kansas City banded together to

support food-insecure and at-risk people as well as frontline workers in the community. Single Wing Creative, a collective of local designers, joined the efforts by producing a new line of T-shirts, hoodies, ball caps and mugs, sold through Emoji My City. Initially, Single Wing Creative donated 100 percent of the proceeds to chef Howard Hanna’s Crossroads Community Kitchen, which served meals on a pay-what-you-can basis in the Crossroads Arts District and donated other meals to shelters, hospitals, day care centers and nursing homes. Now, if you purchase one of its products, your money will directly support a rotating list of causes aligned with the hospitality industry. Each of the five partners behind Single Wing Creative has friends and family in the hospitality industry who were impacted by recent layoffs and loss of business due to COVID-19. For them, the work they put into designing, producing and selling their products was the least they could do for the ones they love. –J.V. singlewing.co

42

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 0

temperature checks before they start their shift, and masks are required for every server. However, Farina has gone above and beyond the norm. Diners

banner year for James Beard Award-winning chef

today will find low, clear plastic partitions between

Michael Smith and his wife and business partner,

each booth to keep germs from spreading between

Nancy. In the Crossroads Arts District, their lively

tables as they eat and drink. The partitions are an

tapas bar, Extra Virgin, was attracting crowds night

extra level of precaution – one that does its best to

after night with its brilliant Mediterranean bites

not compromise the design and overall aesthetic

such as chickpea fries with romesco sauce, Spanish

of the space – that the Smiths felt was necessary.

meatballs and pork belly steamed buns. Next door,

With the city’s approval, they’ve also added outdoor

their new flagship restaurant, Farina, which just

seating on the sidewalk for those hoping to dine al

opened in early 2019, was making a name for itself

fresco as well as tables in the Haw Contemporary

with handcrafted regional Italian dishes such as

art gallery next door. –J.V. farinakc.com

Enjoy VinEyard to tablE cuisinE for lunch and sEasonal dinnErs.

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