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Inspired Local Food Culture | M i dw e st

feastmagazine.com |

april 2018

escape

Lemon verbena panna cotta with chocolate crumble and edible flowers from Vicia

P. 8 2 P. 6 4

honey ice cream :

hive to harvest

P. 7 1

cherry mash celebrates

A Sweet Century

Summer Wright's

SECRET GARDEN blossoms at vicia


AT THE EUCLID 52 N. Euclid St. Louis, MO 63108 at the corner of Euclid & West Pine

OPEN EVERY DAY STARTING APRIL 4

Inspired Local Food Culture

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REAL AMERICAN LAGER REAL AMERICAN LAGER Inspired Local Food Culture

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l i v ei c mus b e e ri t s spir

lo ca l ch ef s

&

's

awa w i n nri d w i n en g

it's better with bacon Join us for a live cooking demo with some of st. Louis’ chefs. they’ll be putting their creative spin on cooking with bacon.

ParticiPating

Vendors

hosted by burgers’ smokehouse

wineries

        

Augusta Winery Canterbury Hill Winery and Restaurant Chaumette Vineyards & Winery Cooper's HawkWinery & Restaurants LaChance Vineyards Martin Brothers Winery Missouri Wines Montelle Winery Wild Sun Winery

breweries    

4 Hands Brewing Co. Mother's Brewing Co. Schlafly Beer Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.

distilleries    

Mastermind Vodka Missouri Ridge Distillery Snow Leopard Vodka StilL 630

wine pairings

 Larder & Cupboard  Edibles & Essentials

restaurants      

BaiKu Sushi Lounge Beast Craft BBQ Co. Burgers' Smokehouse Favazza's on The Hill Pig & Pickle Ruth'sChrisSteakHouse

Be a vip

Your VIP ticket includes: Beer & BBQ on the Terrace | VIP After Party | VIP Swag Bag Beast Craft BBQ Co. | Bleu Events | Pappy's Smokehouse | Rain Crow Ranch | Schlafly Beer | Super Smokers BBQ

visit feastmagazine.com/events for more details sponsored by: Inspired Local Food Culture

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APRIL 30, 2018 | 6:30PM

and WHISKEY

6 course pairing dinner FEATURING HENDRICKS’ PRIVATE BARREL!

6 Course Whiskey Pairing Dinner featuring Wood Hat Spirits local, small-batch craft whiskeys, with unique smoked pairings from Executive Chef Marc Rollins.

HENDRICKSBBQ.COM/SMOKE 1200 S. MAIN STREET, ST. CHARLES • 636.724.8600 HendricksBBQ.COM • /HendricksBBQ • @HendricksBBQ • @HendricksBBQ 6

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april 2018

from the staff

64 71 78 82

milk & honey

The couple behind Giofre Apiaries in Millersburg, Missouri, is fighting the global honeybee crisis one scoop of ice cream at a time.

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from the PUBLIsher

| 16 |

dIgItaL content

| 18 |

feast tv

The sweet life What’s online this month Foraged foods

dIne

| 22 |

on trend

| 24 |

where we’re dInIng

| 25 |

one on one

| 26 |

one on one

Make your own date syrup or sugar at home to sweeten everything from cookies and brownies to pizza sauce and salad dressing.

| 28 |

In season

| 29 |

one on one

365 days of summer

| 34 |

on trend

| 35 |

one on one

| 36 |

where we’re drInkIng

| 37 |

one on one

| 38 |

the mIx

| 39 |

on the sheLf

cherry on top

The iconic Cherry Mash celebrates 100 sweet years in St. Joseph, Missouri.

hot dates

In just a year, Vicia executive pastry chef Summer Wright has made her mark on the St. Louis dining scene with hyper-seasonal, sometimes left-of-center desserts – to thrilling results.

Raclette cheese Black Dirt, Good Food Co., Stone Turtle Mandy Estrella of Plantain Girl David Durr and Jessica Rush of Wiener Kitchen Broccoli

Shelly La Fata of Sidebar

drInk Nontraditional simple syrups Megan Downes of The Brass Onion The Quarry, Brew Hub Taproom, Parker at The Fontaine Martin Weber and Lynn DeLean-Weber of Edelbrand Pure Distilling Rhubarb Scofflaw What to drink this month

shoP

| 44 |

shoP here

| 44 |

get thIs gadget

| 46 |

one on one

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cULInary LIBrary

| 48 |

shoP here

| 48 |

artIsan ProdUcts

Oregeno & Thyme Mediterranean Market and Deli A no-spill cupcake scoop and a foolproof honey dispenser Kristen Radaker Sheafer of Frosted Cakerie I’m Just Here For Dessert by Caroline Khoo Farm 2 Counter Marcoot Jersey Creamery whey ices and YellowTree Farm ceramics

cook

| 54 | | 56 |

In st. LoUIs (P. 82) By jennIfer sILverBerg

mystery shoPPer

Tamarind pods qUIck fIx

| 60 |

sweet Ideas

InsPectIng a honeycomB tray at gIofre aPIarIes In cover Photo of anne’s garden dessert at vIcIa

Grapefruit-basil frozen Greek yogurt

| 58 | taBLe of contents Photo of BeekeePer nancy gIofre mILLersBUrg, mIssoUrI, (P. 64) By keIth Borgmeyer

heaLthy aPPetIte

Pappardelle with lemon, baby artichokes and asparagus Foolproof blitz puff pastry


| Issue 4 | April 2018

Volume 9

Vice President of niche Publishing, Publisher of feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

sales

director of sales

Angie Henshaw, ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 account Manager, st. louis region

Jennifer Tilman, jtilman@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1205 account Manager, Kansas city region

Pete Nicklin, pnicklin@feastmagazine.com, 785.431.8025 sPecial Projects editor

Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1244

eDITORIal senior editor

Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com

Folks like Bob Pyle gather up black walnuts that fall from trees on their land every autumn and deliver those nuts to Hammons Products Co. in Stockton, Missouri, where they are cracked open, cleaned and bagged for sale across the country.

Managing editor

Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com digital editor

Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas city contributing editor

Jenny Vergara st. louis contributing editor

Mabel Suen editorial intern

Lauren Smith fact checKer

Danielle Lacey Proofreader

Erica Hunzinger contributing Writers

Christy Augustin, Shanley Cox, Gabrielle DeMichele, Kristen Doyle, Natalie Gallagher, Rose Hansen, Hilary Hedges, Kaitlyn McConnell, Lauren Miers, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, Jenn Tosatto, Jessica Vaughn, Shannon Weber

aRT

art director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Production designer

Jacklyn Meyer, jmeyer@feastmagazine.com contributing PhotograPhers

Zach Bauman, Angela Bond, Keith Borgmeyer, Julia Calleo, Shanley Cox, Amber Deery, Kristen Doyle, William Hess, Sean Locke, Mark Neuenschwander, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg, Starboard & Port Creative, Mabel Suen

FeasT TV

producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

COnTaCT Us Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com

DIsTRIbUTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Thomas Norton for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at TNorton@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2018 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC

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publisher’s letter

s

pring brings with it a distinct sweetness. Tiny buds begin to appear. Tender leaves emerge. The weight of winter gives way to a lightness that permeates everything, from kids in spring pastels to cooking that captures the fleeting nature of this transitional season. In St. Louis, executive pastry chef Summer Wright focuses the pastry program at Vicia on distilling those intensely seasonal flavors and textures into desserts that helped to quickly put the new Central West End restaurant on the map. In partnership with farmers such as Anne Lehman, the woman behind Dirty Girl Farms, Wright creates sweet treats that are as unique as they are delicious. Senior editor Liz Miller profiles this innovative chef (p. 82) and explores how she’s using ingredients like bison grass and Moujean tea to craft her pastries at what many consider to be one of the best new restaurants in the country. While Wright’s work at Vicia represents what’s new in the world of sweets, Cherry Mash gives us a taste of the past (p. 71). This hot-pink confection has been made in St. Joseph, Missouri, for 100 years. Managing editor Nancy Stiles takes you to Chase Candy Co. to explore the history of this well-loved confection. The story of Cherry Mash winds from 1918 through World War II and up until present day, and people still make the cherry-centered treats mostly by hand, along with a selection of other indulgent sweets, like peanut brittle and coconut bonbons.

Rounding out our features in the issue are two other sweet stories. First, digital editor Heather Riske introduces you to the couple behind Giofre Apiaries in Millersburg, Missouri (p. 64). Nancy and Domenic Giofre craft high milk-fat ice creams using honey from their own hives in flavors ranging from peanut butter-chocolate chip to pumpkin, but it’s the bees that they’re most passionate about. They use their ice cream as a way to educate people about honeybees, pollinators that are critical to our food supply and are facing an uncertain future. And writer Rose Hansen brings you recipes from The Date Lady, Springfield, Missouri’s Colleen Sundlie. Sundlie’s date syrup and date sugar are nutritious, delicious sweeteners that deserve to be in your pantry. Learn how to use them beginning on p. 78. Although the spring season is short, it’s sweet, and we’ve captured a bit of that sweetness here in the pages of our April issue.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville


04.18 jennifer silverberg St. Louis, Photographer “Collaborating with Summer Wright for the feature on her desserts was, no surprise, pure bliss. Her work at Vicia is at once smart, stunning and delicious. Each dessert she brought out of the kitchen seemed more imaginative than the previous one. I love how Summer finds ways to use food elements that others might toss aside. And the way she composes each dish is so deliberate and well thought out, I simply wanted to honor that in my photographs. For outtakes and more, visit @jennsilverberg on Instagram.” (365 Days of Summer, p. 82)

rose hansen Neosho, Missouri, Writer “Until now, I’d always dismissed dates as the kind of food hopelessly sidelined for trail mix. But in writing Hot Dates, Colleen Sundlie showed me all the different ways the fruit can rise above humdrum applications. Once transformed into a syrup or sugar, it’s a dynamic ingredient that adds an unexpected punch to salad dressing or even pizza sauce. It was fun working with someone whose curiosity pressed her to experiment in ways I never would have thought to try. Her recipes shattered my own misconceptions – and I’m so glad. As owner of The Date Lady, she’s a fitting ambassador for the date. Who better than Colleen to show us just what the humble fruit can do?” (Hot Dates, p. 78)

keith borgmeyer Columbia, Missouri, Photographer “As I pulled down the gravel road to Giofre Apiaries in Millersburg, Missouri, I approached a dew-covered field, a light breeze and buzzing in the air. I parked and was greeted by some of the kindest people you’ll ever meet. Domenic and Nancy Giofre educated me on the core philosophies of beekeeping, as well as their pure enjoyment of Giofre Apiaries. I take great pride in these type of stories; they show that there are still craftsmen in the age of mass manufacturing. I also discovered that their honey ice cream is absolutely delicious!” (Milk & Honey, p. 64)

kaitlyn mcconnell Springfield, Missouri, Writer “Healthy food is good for the heart, and writing about it is good for the soul – which made writing about Farm 2 Counter, a gourmet convenience store in Springfield, Missouri, an especially satisfying assignment. From plump tomatoes to packages of pasta and sweet treats baked right around the corner, owner Paul Allen makes you feel good about what you’re eating, and where you’re buying it. Nestled in the heart of Springfield’s north side – an area that faces a high level of poverty – the store brings healthy eats to a neighborhood where they’re traditionally far and few between. In addition to getting high-quality, organic (or local) products, it’s heartwarming to support a business that helps others in the community have access to healthy food.” (Shop Here, p. 48)

cast your feast 50 ballot vote for your favorites!

st. louis kansas city springfield columbia Inspired Local Food Culture

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STL

2018 Augusta

4/134/14

Plein Air Art Festival

Over 130 professional artists painting outdoors Over 25 events throughout the 12 day festival Painting events at 8 different wineries and neighboring communities Art for sale daily from the easel and at our “Pop-Up Art Gallery” Symphony Dinner with artists, April 21 tickets at augustaheritagefoundation.org

CheFs’ GaraGe sale and preview party Fri., April 13, 6 to 9pm and Sat., April 14, 9am to 2pm; preview party $35, garage sale is free; Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, Missouri; 314.913.6632; midwestfarmersmarket.org/events/chefs-garage-sale

The Chefs’ Garage Sale is a free, public garage sale where a variety of kitchen goods will be for sale, donated by both professional chefs, restaurateurs and home cooks, including utensils, dishes, linens, small appliances, furniture, cookbooks and more. A preview party will take place the evening before from 6 to 9pm for a sneak peek of the goods. Tickets include food and drinks, local purveyor samples and a gift basket raffle. The event is hosted by Midwest Association of Farmers Markets, and proceeds benefit the nonprofit’s culinary education programs and chef events.

APRIL 18-29

Be sure to enjoy all Augusta, Missouri has to offer B&B • Spa • Food • Brewery Winery • Shopping • Katy Trail • Antiques

STL

www.augustapleinair.com • “Like” us on Facebook

636.228.4005

4/134/15 4/204/22

Culinary Camps at the inns at st. albans Fri., April 13 to Sun., April 15 and Fri., April 20 to Sun., April 22; $250 to $500; The Inns at St. Albans, 3519 St. Albans Road, St. Albans, Missouri; 636.458.0131; innsatstalbans.com/special-events

The Inns at St. Albans offers culinary classes taught by award-winning cooks and best-selling authors. The hands-on cooking events will help you master new skills, explore new culinary traditions and discover local producers. Five culinary camps will be offered in 2018. The April 13 to 15 class is a virtual tour of Italy’s Abruzzo region with Italian cookbook author and blogger Domenica Marchetti. During the April 20 to 22 class, you’ll master the art of cooking fish with chef Christine Burns Rudalevige. Camp prices include meals, hands-on cooking classes and tours. Overnight accommodations are available.

RELAX AND UNWIND IN Roland Barkau Golf Course

OKAWVILLE

Heritage Days | June 9-10, 2018 Family Friendly Activities & Events Spa Days at the Original Springs Roland Barkau Golf Course Heritage House Tours

Stay with us!

618-243-5458

618-243-6525

Okawville ofof Commerce | 618-243-5694 • okawvillecc.com OkawvilleChamber Chamber Commerce | 618-243-5694 • okawvillecc.com 10

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KC

4/19

Forks & Corks Thu., April 19, 6:30 to 9pm; $125 general admission, $200 VIP; Arrowhead Stadium, 1 Arrowhead Drive, Kansas City, Missouri; forkscorkskc.com

Now in its 22nd year, Forks & Corks is a fun and delicious event where guests have the opportunity to taste samples of delectable food, desserts, wine, beer and cocktails from more than 60 of Kansas City’s best restaurants and beverage purveyors. Hosted by Harvesters, 100 percent of the proceeds benefit the hungry in the Kansas City community, and the event generates funds to provide more than 1 million meals each year.


MO

4/204/22

STL

4/25

Main Street BBQ, BikeS & BlueS Fri., April 20 to Sun., April 22, times vary; $10 to $20 for barbecue-tasting ticket; across downtown Washington, Missouri; 636.239.1743; downtownwashmo.org/events/main-street-bbq-bluesfest

Head to downtown Washington, Missouri, for live blues music, a barbecue competition, a bike show and a vintage market. On Saturday afternoon, sample barbecue from up to 50 teams at the 10th-annual barbecue competition, sanctioned by the prestigious Kansas City Barbeque Society. Sunday afternoon will feature a bike show along with barbecue and more live music.

SchnuckS cookS: PaPPardelle With leMon, BaBy artichokeS and aSParaguS Wed., April 25, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road, Des Peres, Missouri; 314.909.1704; schnuckscooks.com

In this class you’ll learn how to make flavorful green bean bundles, an easy and healthy side dish. You’ll also learn how to make indulgent buttercream frosting from scratch.

UNCORKED: A CAUSE FOR THE PAWS Sunday, May 20th 12 noon - 4 p.m. THE FOUNDRY ART CENTRE 520 N. Main Street St. Charles, MO 63301

STL

5/6

taSte & toaSt Sun., May 6, 2 to 5pm, VIP after-party 5:30 to 7pm; $35 general admission, $75 VIP; Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis, sixth floor, 999 N. Second St., Downtown, St. Louis, Missouri;

Food, wine, beer and spirits tastings provided by some of St. Louis' best restaurants and more.

314.475.1244; feastmagazine.com/events

You’re invited to the fourth-annual celebration of Midwest wine! Sample award-winning wines paired with dishes from top area restaurants. Enjoy free pours from the region’s best wineries, breweries and distilleries and food samples from some of the area’s best restaurants. This year, Taste & Toast will be held at the Four Seasons Hotel overlooking Downtown St. Louis, and we’re offering an enhanced and upgraded VIP experience. Taste & Toast is sponsored by Schlafly Beer, Missouri Wine, Amber House Bed & Breakfast and Burgers’ Smokehouse.

BENEFITING

FEATURING AN ACOUSTIC PERFORMANCE BY RYAN GRIFFIN

WWW.FIVEACRESANIMALSHELTER.ORG/EVENTS Inspired Local Food Culture

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PROMOTION

for spirit lovers

for beer lovers stl | 4/13 Beer And Food PAirinG dinners At the BierGArten Fri., April 13, 6:30pm beertails, 7pm dinner; $35; The Biergarten at Anheuser-Busch, 1200 Lynch St., Soulard, St. Louis, Missouri; bit.ly/abbeerpairing

Explore true beer appreciation during Anheuser-Busch’s two-hour food-and-beer-pairing dinners hosted by head chef Tim Evans and a brewing ambassador. At the dinner, you’ll take a journey through different A-B brands with completely different taste profiles accompanied by a specially made three- or four-course meal.

stl | 5/12 4th AnnuAl GinWorld Gin FestivAl Sat., May 12, 12 to 4pm; $55; 2nd Shift Brewing, 1601 Sublette Ave., The Hill, St. Louis, Missouri; 314.771.3411; ginworld.com

The largest gin festival in the U.S. is back again for the fourth time on Sat., May 12. Ginworld is an outdoor and indoor spirits party filled with spirits tastings of more than 100 gins from around the world, meet-and-greets with distillers from around the country, hands-on workshops, educational seminars and live music. Ginworld Gin Festival has a new location at 2nd Shift Brewing this year, which will provide a beer booth and an exclusive collaboration release for the event. Tickets available at ginworld.com.

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PROMOTION

for beer lovers stl | 4/28 MoreLs and Microbrews Sat., April 28, 12 to 4pm; $20; 500-600 Court St., Fulton, Missouri; 573.220.0007; morelsandmicrobrews.com

Celebrate spring with Morels and Microbrews, a beer-tasting festival with live music, food and your favorite fungi: morels. Your ticket includes a commemorative glass for beer and spirit tasting, and raw and fried morels will be available for purchase (cash only). At 3pm, children 8 and younger can participate in a mushroom hunt, and at 4pm, a morel auction will be held, with proceeds benefiting the historic Brick District in Fulton. Music will be provided by Mercer & Johnson, followed by The Kay Brothers.

stl | 4/14 food truck feast Sat., April 14, 12 to 5pm; free; 4 Hands Brewing Co., 1220 S. Eighth St., LaSalle Park, St. Louis, Missouri; 314.436.1559; 4handsbrewery.com

4 Hands Brewing Co. is hosting a free, family-friendly food truck event in the brewery parking lot in LaSalle Park in St. Louis. Stop by to taste some of the best food trucks in town, to shop from retail truck Rack + Clutch, to listen to live music and to try a plethora of 4 Hands beer.

stl | 5/4 - 5/5 st. Louis Microfest Fri., May 4 and Sat., May 5, session times vary; $45 general admission, $60 VIP; Upper Muny Parking Lot, 1 Theatre Drive, Forest Park, St. Louis, Missouri; 314.588.1186; stlmicrofest.org

Benefiting Lift for Life Gym, the 2018 St. Louis Microfest is a two-day beer-tasting festival of international and craft offerings, with more than 125 breweries pouring more than 600 beers. With three different sessions available, each Microfest ticket includes a commemorative tasting glass, access to restaurant and brewery demonstrations, and live music. Food will be available for purchase from several local food vendors.

stl | 5/12 Maifest 2018 Sat., May 12, 12 to 10pm; Urban Chestnut Midtown Brewery & Biergarten, 3229 Washington Ave., St. Louis, Missouri; 314.222.0143; urbanchestnut.com

Ring in spring with Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s annual Maifest. Celebrate with UCBC in the Midtown Biergarten for a selection of bock biers and limited-edition U.R.B. biers, plus barbecue and live music. Leading up to the event, cycling enthusiasts can join in for a multiday ride from Kansas City to St. Louis. Inspired Local Food Culture

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PROMOTION

for food lovers stl | 4/13 - 4/15

4/20 - 4/22

Culinary CaMpS at the innS at St. alBanS Fri., April 13 to Sun., April 15 and Fri., April 20 to Sun., April 22; $250 to $500; The Inns at St. Albans, 3519 St. Albans Road, St. Albans, Missouri; 636.458.0131; innsatstalbans.com/special-events

The Inns at St. Albans offers culinary classes taught by award-winning cooks and best-selling authors. The hands-on cooking events will help you master new skills, explore new culinary traditions and discover local producers. Five culinary camps will be offered in 2018. The April 13-15 class is a virtual tour of Italy’s Abruzzo region with Italian cookbook author and blogger Domenica Marchetti. During the April 20-22 class, you’ll master the art of fish cooking with chef Christine Burns Rudalevige. Camp prices include all meals, hands-on cooking classes and tours. Overnight accommodations are available.

stl | 4/20 - 4/22 Main Street BBQ, BikeS & BlueS Fri., April 20 to Sun., April 22, times vary; $10 to $20 for barbecue-tasting ticket; across downtown Washington, Missouri; 636.239.1743; downtownwashmo.org/events/main-street-bbq-bluesfest

Head to downtown Washington, Missouri, for live blues music, a barbecue competition, a bike show and a vintage market. On Saturday afternoon, sample barbecue from up to 50 teams at the 10th-annual barbecue competition, sanctioned by the prestigious Kansas City Barbeque Society. Sunday afternoon will feature a bike show along with barbecue and more live music.

stl | 5/5 Battle of the BadgeS BBQ Sat., May 5, 5 to 9pm; $20, $25 day of; Shaw Park, 27 S. Brentwood Blvd., Clayton, Missouri; 314.290.8466; claytonbbq.com

The city of Clayton, Missouri, is excited to host the second-annual Battle of the Badges BBQ on the evening of Sat., May 5 to benefit The Backstoppers and Responder Rescue. Competing teams will serve 2-ounce samples of barbecue pork butts, chicken and ribs. Weber Grill Restaurant will serve side dishes. Cash bars will be available courtesy of the Clayton Chamber of Commerce, and entertainment will be provided by Leland’s Road.

il | 6/9 – 6/10 heritage dayS Sat., June 9 and Sun., June 10, 10am to 5pm; free; Schlosser Home, 114 W. Walnut St., Okawville, Illinois; 618.243.5694; okawvillecc.com

Heritage Days is an annual two-day event held in the backyard of the Schlosser museum property. Come for entertainment, German-style food, a soda-tasting event, games, a corn-kernal box for the kids and community-wide yard sales. An action auction begins at 2pm on Sunday. Museum properties are open both days for tours.

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PROMOTION

for wine lovers mo | 4/18 - 4/29 AugustA Plein Air Art FestivAl Wed., April 18 to Sun., April 29, times vary; free; Augusta, Missouri, and surrounding areas; 636.228.4005; augustapleinair.com

See the art unfold during the 16th-annual Augusta Plein Air Art Festival. The 12-day festival encompasses 25-plus events and seven workshops offered in various mediums. Paint-outs will be held at local businesses, neighboring communities, and nine different wineries and wine gardens. A pop-up art gallery will be open every day from 10am until 10pm throughout the festival for viewing art and purchases, and the St. Louis Chamber Project will perform at a ticketed symphony dinner on Sat., April 21.

mo | 4/20 – 4/22 lAchAnce vineyArds’ 3rd-AnniversAry PArty Fri., April 20 to Sun., April 22, times vary; free; LaChance Vineyards, 12237 Peter Moore Lane De Soto, Missouri; 636.586.2777; lachancevineyards.com

Spend a spring weekend with family and friends at LaChance Vineyards for the winery’s three-year anniversary party! To celebrate its success, LaChance will have live music, delicious food and, of course, amazing wine.

stl | 6/9 Music & wine FestivAl Sat., June 9, 5 to 10pm; free; Carondelet Plaza, 176 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, Missouri; 314.290.8466; claytonmusicandwinefestival.com

The city of Clayton, Missouri, announces the fourth-annual Music & Wine Festival on the evening of Sat., June 9, at Carondelet Plaza, east of Hanley Road. Along with live music, the festival will feature wine from regional wineries and food available for purchase. In addition, live street entertainment will take place throughout the festival.

stl | 5/20 uncorked: A cAuse For the PAws Sun., May 20, 12 to 4pm; $50 general admission, $100 VIP; Foundry Art Centre, 520 N. Main Center, St. Charles, Missouri; 636.949.9918; fiveacresanimalshelter.org/events

If you love food, day drinking, live music and animals, you don’t want to miss Five Acres Animal Shelter’s 11th-annual Uncorked: A Cause for the Paws benefiting homeless cats and dogs waiting for their forever homes. Uncorked includes an auction, raffles, live entertainment and adoptable animals. This year’s entertainer will be up-and-coming country artist Ryan Griffin. Inspired Local Food Culture

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this month on

feastmagazine.com the feed

SPECIAL GIVEAWAY

-

PhoTograPhy by bonJWing lee

PhoTograPhy by Mabel Suen

We’re giving away two tickets to Taste & Toast, our annual Midwest wine social, on Sun., May 6. Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for all the details.

The highly awaited Firecracker Pizza & Beer hit St. Louis last month with a bang. Located in The Grove, the “craft casual” restaurant serves unique pizzas like the Cherry Poppins alongside a selection of 60 taps.

KC The beloved Hank Charcuterie is closing in Lawrence, Kansas, but chef-owner Vaughn Good plans to open a new restaurant, Fox and Pearl, in Kansas City this fall. Expect to see the fan-favorite chicken pot pie on the menu.

Rejoice: Patio season is upon us once again. To celebrate, we’ve rounded up our favorite spots to dine and drink alfresco in St. Louis, Kansas City, Springfield and Columbia, from charming beer gardens to posh rooftop bars.

PhoTograPhy by STarboard & PorT creaTive

PHOTOgraPHy By ana ElliOTT

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Springfield, Missouri, is officially going Dutch. Van Gogh’s Eeterie, the city’s first Dutch-inspired restaurant, is now open, serving an extensive pannenkoeken menu, featuring several riffs on the hearty Dutch pancakes. feastmagazine.com

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2018 FESTIVAL SEASON MAY 19 – JUNE 24 LA TRAVIATA Giuseppe Verdi REGINA Marc Blitzstein world Premiere of THE NEW TWO-ACT OPERA AN AMERICAN SOLDIER Huang Ruo & David Henry Hwang ORFEO & EURIDICE Christoph Willibald Gluck CENTER STAGE One Night Only

TICKETS START AT JUST $25!

ExperienceOpera.org | (314) 961-0644

All performances are sung in English and accompanied by members of the St. Louis Symphony.

FIN NE SAUCES

Todd o G Geisert s t Fa Farms Home of the Happy Pigs Drug Free and Pasture Raised in

Washington, MO by the

TheHoneyIceCreamPeople.com

Todd Geisert Family

www.ToadsPigs.com Toad@farmtoyoumarket.com * 314 -791-6942 Inspired Local Food Culture

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on our partner stations

great grains We often take grains for granted, but how are they grown and harvested, and what’s out there beyond wheat? Explore Midwest grain from field to mill.

wood fired In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Mondays at 9:30pm.

The intense heat and smoke of live-fire cooking adds dimension to even simple dishes. Discover how chefs use wood-fired ovens to amplify the flavors of seasonal fare.

good eggs Eggs are key players in everything from brioche to meatloaf. Explore the ubiquitous egg at a farm raising chickens, ducks and geese, and get a taste of creative egg-centric breakfast fare.

go east The foods of Asia are vast and varied. Get a taste of the vibrant flavors from China, Korea, Japan and Vietnam, including pan-fried dumplings, stuffed bao buns and Korean barbecue hot off the grill.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 8am and 6:30pm.

water world From freshwater streams to saltwater farms, seafood is being raised in the Midwest. Explore different approaches to farming fish, including a decades-old trout farm and an innovative saltwater shrimp farm.

coffee & donuts In this episode, we explore the all-American pairing of coffee and donuts. Get a taste of coffee roasted on site, then pair it with artisan donuts and pastries that are almost too good to dunk.

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Saturdays at 10pm.

fermented There are lots of delicious benefits to fermentation. Sip on craft beers and kombucha, then discover how chefs are using a range of fermentation and preservation techniques to develop unique flavor.

go south Explore the flavors and textures of Central and South America, including fresh masa made from local non-GMO corn, ingredients native to Peru and the art of a perfectly layered Cuban sandwich.

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8).

smoked There’s a lot more to smoked food than meets the eye: Local chefs use a fine-dining background or a vegan approach to inform creative takes on classic ‘cue.

crushed Go behind the scenes in the Missouri wine industry during harvest, visit an urban winery and pair French wines with food at one winery’s award-winning restaurant.

Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

farm to table Explore various ways to shop local, including a farmers’ market, a farm-fresh market and café and a CSA program connected to a restaurant.

frozen assets Get a taste of everything from snow cones to ice cream, including locally made snow cone syrup, and another company producing Mexican ice cream and paletas.

for the win Feast TV airs Saturdays at 5pm and Sundays at 2:30pm (Channel 8). 18

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Follow St. Louis chef Ben Grupe and his commis, Jared Dix, as they prepare for and then compete in the Ment’or competition in Las Vegas, which will determine Team USA for the 2019 Bocuse d’Or competition.


Most of the food that we eat is grown on farms, picked, packed and shipped to a grocery store or offered up at a farmers’ market. But not all food is cultivated. Many foods are foraged, plucked from wild places and either eaten quickly during their fleeting seasons or preserved for future enjoyment. Our first segment takes us on a morel hunt, then we’re off to the woods to forage for black walnuts. Next up, we visit a farm that specializes in wild and native species.

Each spring, you’ll find the passionate mushroom foragers of the Missouri Mycological Society in the woods looking for hard-to-find morels.

Black walnuts grow wild across the Midwest. Foragers bring their haul to Hammons Products Co., where they’re processed and bagged for sale across the U.S.

At Prairie Birthday Farm near Kansas City, Linda Hezel specializes in wild and cultivated native plants, offering the unique bounty directly to area chefs and bartenders.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

Missouri Wines supports the more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.

Kaldi’s Coffee is dedicated to creating a memorable coffee experience for customers and guests via sustainable practices and education.

Ole Tyme Produce provides some of the finest produce in the St. Louis region, serving restaurants, hotels, food service and catering companies.

The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.

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Join us for Game Day Specials

Rooftop dining, drinking and viewing has officially commenced, so perch yourself 400 feet above Busch Stadium and Sip See Savor Cardinals baseball.

One S. Broadway | St. Louis, Missouri | 314.241.8 439 | 360-stl.com

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hot diggity dog

Wiener Wagon puts down roots in Overland Park, Kansas, on p. 26. photography by amber deery


raclette The Swiss favorite is as popular as it is pungent. Written by nancy stiles

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PhotograPhy by j. Pollack PhotograPhy

melted raclette is a traditional swiss dish: the semi-hard cow’s milk cheese is heated (sometimes tableside), and the melted cheese is scraped – or racler, in french – onto potatoes or vegetables. new york city has an entire restaurant dedicated to raclette; in the midwest, local restaurants are featuring the gooey favorite scraped to order. 22

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The BreAd CompAny URBana, iL. Although raclette has been on the menu for more than 20 years at the Bread company in Urbana, Illinois, chef Thomas Almeida still gets a lot of questions about it. “With fondue, [diners] understand it’s a pot of melted cheese, whereas with raclette, we have to explain it’s a different dish,” Almeida says. “It’s definitely a bit more on the pungent side, so if somebody’s adverse to stronger cheeses, I recommend they try the fondue instead, which is a little more mild in flavor.” At The Bread Company, raclette is heated in cast-iron pans in the oven and served with toasted bread, roasted potatoes, gherkins and pickled onions. The menu has expanded over the years to include things like pizza and pasta, but raclette and fondue have always been staples at the European-inspired eatery. “Raclette itself has a deliciously oaky flavor,” Almeida says. “When it’s melted down, that pungent smell kind of dissipates so you’re left with this delicious, creamy, oaky melted cheese.”

706 s. Goodwin ave., Urbana, illinois, thebread.co

frAnkly on Cherokee st. LoUis. Bill Cawthon resisted the call for cheese fries as long as he could. The chef, who owns food truck Frankly sausages and its storefront, Frankly on cherokee, with his wife, Jamie, gave in to customer demand last summer and added creamy raclette to his famous hand-cut fries. “I’m very particular about our fries; it’s just the potato and salt,” Cawthon says. “I was like, 'I’m never gonna make cheese sauce. Our fries are the star, we don’t want them to get all soggy.'” But after waiting an hour and a half for raclette at Cowgirl Creamery in San Francisco at the behest of his brother-in-law, Cawthon gave in. The raclette fries have proved so popular at both the food truck and the restaurant that the Cawthons added loaded raclette fries last month, topped with housemade pancetta and caramelized onions. “Just another little thing to make it that much more unhealthy,” Cawthon says with a laugh. “It’s been funny – we do a ton of work making sausages and all this other stuff, and literally all of our reviews are like, ‘The sausages, but tell me about the cheese fries!’ I’m like, 'Calm down!' But they’re pretty damn good.”

2744 cherokee st., st. Louis, Missouri, franklysausages.com

Andre’s Confiserie suisse kansas city. At the tea room at andre’s confiserie suisse, which

has downtown Kansas City and Overland Park, Kansas, locations, Swiss and French raclette cheeses are served the traditional Swiss way: over boiled potatoes. In Switzerland, it’s also often paired with pickled onions or cornichons. “Now, raclette has kind of transformed. People have, for lack of a better word, modernized it,” says co-owner Rene Bollier. “People do it with pancetta and garlic, over bread or vegetables. You’re seeing raclette everywhere over the last year.” The Swiss raclette used at Andre’s is pasteurized and tends to be more firm, with a less sharp flavor; the unpasteurized French raclette is nuttier, sharper and creamier. Andre’s melts raclette in the kitchen, and once it gets bubbly, it’s poured over the potatoes and hit with a little smoked paprika. “My 11-year-old daughter coined the term ‘cheese and conversation,’ because it’s one of those meals that takes a long time,” Bollier says. “Each individual portion [of the meal] has to melt, so it tends to be a very long meal, which is a ton of fun for a dinner party because you get time to sit and talk.” multiple locations, andreschocolates.com

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where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.

Good Food Co. Written by JeSSica Vaughn

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photography by aaron ottiS

ColuMBiA, Mo. When the sun begins to set over downtown columbia,

Missouri, Good Food Co. transforms from a morning bakery into the city’s weekend-only dessert bar. the idea stems from owner Jill rostine’s love of a multi-staged culinary adventure. after you wrap up dinner, continue the evening with restaurant-style desserts from the pocket-sized locale in the north Village arts district. Seating is limited to a few counter stools, but you can also enjoy a small selection of desserts next door alongside a drink at Fretboard coffee. rostine brings knowledge from her years as a pastry chef in columbia, most recently at Sycamore. She highlights the best seasonal ingredients available in each of her treats, from scones to delectable chocolate tarts, classic cinnamon rolls to sour cherry and white chocolate cake, bread pudding and more. the bar is generally open Friday and Saturday from 6 to 9pm as well as for special events at Fretboard, such as open-mic nights. Morning bakery hours run from 7am to 1pm on Saturday and Sunday. check good Food co.’s Facebook page and instagram account for updated hours. 1023 E. Walnut St.,Ste. 7, Columbia, Missouri, facebook.com/jillbakesgoodcakes

Stone turtle Story and photography Mabel Suen

st. louis. St. louis’ dogtown neighborhood has a new casual neighborhood dining spot. Stone Turtle – named for nearby turtle park – debuted in december, serving dinner, drinks, lunch and Sunday brunch. the american gastropub and whiskey bar serves upscale takes on classic american fare. the menu begins with bar snacks such as spicy roasted chickpeas, followed by a selection of greens, including a brussels sprouts salad with pork belly lardons, blue cheese, candied walnuts

BlaCk dirt Written by Jenny Vergara

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photography by anna petroW

KANsAs CitY. executive chef Jonathan Justus and managing partner camille

eklof tell a personal story with Black Dirt, their second restaurant, which opened in January in Kansas city’s South plaza. the sleek space is broken up into five dining areas tied together by a modern black and gray palette, with broad strokes of earthy colors. Justus is known for the elevated, hyper-local cuisine at his Smithville, Missouri, restaurant, Justus drugstore. at black dirt, he describes the dishes as simple and elegant, like an appetizer of head-on Kc Shrimp co. shrimp, served extra crispy – shell-on, cajun style – with a dressing made with Kansas city canning co. fermented black garlic. Standout entrées include whole freshwater bass; crispy duck from barham Family Farms in Kearney, Missouri, that serves four or five; and fried chicken from campo lindo Farms in lathrop, Missouri, served with mashed potatoes and sage gravy. the craft-cocktail list features drinks that deliver thoughtful and complex flavors, like the billy cloud country, featuring elijah craig bourbon, house sweet vermouth, and black walnut and chocolate bitters. in addition to several local beers on tap, black dirt’s collection of wines by the glass features local Missouri selections and French favorites, plus an extensive bottle list that includes rare vintages. 5070 Main St., Kansas City, Missouri, blackdirtkc.com

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and sherry-bacon vinaigrette. try the breaded and fried burrata cheese appetizer – likened to a “grown-up mozzarella stick” – served over romesco sauce. entrées include a lobster roll, steak frites, mushroom gnocchi and a house burger with beer cheese, bacon-onion jam and fries. another highlight is the pork chop with asparagus, creamy grits and pork jus. For a sweet end to the meal, opt for the Stone turtle pie with cream cheese, chocolate, peanuts and caramel. 6335 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.349.1933, stoneturtlestl.com


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THE FARMERS ARE BACK! 730 Carroll Street • St. Louis, Missouri 63104 Wednesday 8 am - 5 pm Thursday 8 am - 5 pm Friday 7 am - 5 pm

mandy estrella

chef-owner, plantain girl; chef, alphateria Written by Lauren Smith

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asian CaFe Bar & Grill

PhotograPhy by j. PoLLack PhotograPhy

ST. LOUIS. known as Plantain Girl for her pop ups featuring Latin-inspired

cuisine, mandy estrella is finally putting down roots in a partnership with alpha brewing co. She’s at the helm of Alphateria, the restaurant inside alpha’s new beer hall, which opened in march in St. Louis’ tower grove South neighborhood. inspired by the Latin-food scene in Florida, estrella will offer a rotating cuban, Puerto rican, and Dominican menu to complement the sour beers at alpha; she’ll also roll out american comfort-food specials served on cafeteria trays. How did the partnership with Alpha come about? i was contacted a few months ago by Derrick [Langeneckert], the [owner and] head brewer for alpha brewing co., and he was familiar with Plantain girl. he approached me because he was looking for something different and fun. i was at the point where i was doing catering [while] trying to figure out where to open a brick and mortar in the future, so this just came as an evolution into that. Tell us about the menu. the menu is primarily cuban, Puerto rican and Dominican.

Saturday 7 am - 5:30 pm. The market is CLOSED Sunday - Tuesday.

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Sun-Thur 11am-9pm Fri-SaT 11am-10pm CloSed 3pm-5pm mon-Fri

It’s a combination of Latin comfort food and beer-friendly food. We do an empanada of the day where we feature different empanadas we’ve done [at Plantain Girl] in the past – traditional picadillo beef, chipotle chicken, spicy chorizo with sweet plantain, vegetarian black bean.

i’ve also been experimenting with plantain dough for a gluten-free option. the dish everyone’s been catching onto is the jibarito, a green plantain sandwich that was invented in chicago. instead of bread, it has fried green plantains on the top and bottom with steak, lettuce, tomato, cheese and a garlic mayonnaise. it’s something very different that you can’t get anywhere else in St. Louis. How does Alphateria differ from doing your pop up? everything i did before was very limited because it was on a pop-up basis; it’s difficult to cook food offsite, so you have to limit your menu. there were a lot more dishes i would’ve liked to use in my menu, so i’m excited to bring them out and get a little more creative. What has the customer response been like? really good! People are excited that we’re going to have a permanent spot. it’s food people may have never had the opportunity to try before; they’re adventurous and want to try new things. What's next? this will keep me really busy. We’re looking forward to the grand opening of the beer garden this month; we’ll be able to do beer diners and possibly brunches with beer pairings, and we’re hoping to collaborate with others businesses in tower grove South. 4310 Fyler Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.621.2337, alphabrewingcompany.com

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The bacon sausage smothered in country-style gravy and drizzled with hot sauce

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david derr & jessica rush

owners, wiener kitchen and wiener wagon WRITTen bY JennY VeRgARA

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PhOTOgRAPhY bY AMbeR DeeRY

overland park, ks. David Derr and Jessica Rush opened Wiener Kitchen, a brick-and-mortar location of their mobile cart, the Wiener Wagon, late last year in Overland Park, Kansas. Derr and Rush work together to make the sausages, available fresh from the food cart and in the new café (as well as in bulk cases to take home), and come up with creative and cohesive dishes. Dogs include the chorizo rojo, a pork sausage made with cayenne, crushed red pepper, cumin, garlic and paprika, served on a tortilla and topped with a fried egg and hot sauce. You’ll even find a vegan dog made with a plant-based casing filled with cauliflower, walnuts and wild rice.

What’s your best-selling sausage? Our bacon sausage, a bacon-flavored pork wurst. We coarse-grind Duroc pork seasoned with salt, pepper, brown sugar and pink salt – just like we season slab bacon – and stuff [it] into natural hog casings. The result is an all-day, every meal and versatile [dog]. –David Derr The bacon sausage earned a spot on our menu at the Overland Park Farmers’ Market in 2013 and hasn’t ever left. After crisping the link on the griddle, we serve it on a locally baked, steamed, top-cut bun and smother it with our country-style sausage gravy. Many enjoy it with a fried egg tucked in between the bun and sausage, topped with a drizzle of hot sauce. Anytime you can have sausage on sausage, it’s a win. It cures anything. It’s simple, it’s comforting, it’s delicious. –Jessica Rush How has the menu changed since you opened Wiener

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Kitchen? Since the beginning, we’ve never felt compelled to stick to a core menu, [but] in February, we rolled out a new menu with some of our guests’ favorite sausages and expanded breakfast options, as well as daily features and weekend specials. –J.R. Will you still vend at the farmers’ market? Saturday markets in downtown Overland Park will start on April 14. This will be our sixth year at the market, and our fourth year as a full season vendor. We can’t replicate the foot traffic the market brings us, and we know it’ll be great cross-marketing for our shop. –D.D. What can we expect from Wiener Kitchen this summer? We plan to push the envelope with [creative] new sausage flavors and unique garnishes, and we’re expanding our menu with new breakfast offerings and soups, salads and baked items. –J.R. In addition to sausages by the pound, we offer sausage sampler trays, breakfast bundles, soups and our famous sausage gravy by the quart. As far as events go, we’re currently booking our food cart into late 2018 for private parties and corporate catered events. We’re committed to getting Wiener Kitchen into its groove one sausage at a time. –D.D. 9645 W. 87th St., Overland Park, Kansas, wienerwagonkc.com


T

he resurgence of the wild turkey in Missouri during the past 45 years has rekindled interest in this splendid bird. Today, Missouri turkey hunters can pursue turkeys for three weeks in the spring and two weeks during the fall and archers can add almost another three months during the fall archery season. To learn more about turkey hunting in Missouri visit mdc.mo.gov/shootingranges.

Discover

Nature

SHARPEN YOUR 4 2 SHOT AT ONE OF OUR STAFFED SHOOTING RANGES.

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1 Andy Dalton – Ash Grove 2 3 4 5

mdc.mo.gov/andydalton Lake City – Buckner mdc.mo.gov/lakecity Jay Henges – High Ridge mdc.mo.gov/hengesrange Parma Woods – Parkville mdc.mo.gov/parmawoods August A. Busch – Weldon Spring mdc.mo.gov/buschrange

wild-turkey muffuletta sandwiches Serves 4

Relish ¾ cup chopped red onion ½ cup chopped sweet red pepper 1 stalk celery, chopped ½ cup calamata olives, pitted ½ cup drained small Spanish pimiento-stuffed green olives ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons drained capers 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 12 fresh basil leaves, roughly sliced 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano 1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar Freshly ground black pepper

Sandwich 1 24-inch-long French or sourdough baguette, split lengthwise 12 ounces cooked wild turkey breast, sliced 4 ounces Jarlsberg or good Swiss cheese, sliced Tomato slices (optional) Combine relish ingredients in food processor and chop finely. Add pepper to taste. Transfer to bowl. Let stand 1 hour at room temperature. Spread half of muffuletta relish over each cut side of bread. Place turkey and cheese on bottom half of bread. Top with tomato slices. Cover with top half of bread. Cut diagonally into 4 sandwiches.

Find more wild recipes in Cooking Wild in Missouri. Order yours at mdcnatureshop.com.

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IN SeASON: MArCh TO AprIL

broccoli Although first cultivated in the Roman Empire more than 2,000 years ago, broccoli didn’t gain traction in the U.S. until the 1920s. Chefs across the region are coming up with more flavorful ways to feature this veggie-plate staple, which is also an excellent source of vitamins K and C. Written by nancy StileS

Tannin Wine Bar & KiTchen KANSAS CITY. The paprika-crusted tuna at tannin Wine bar & Kitchen in Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District is a great example of executive chef Pablo Munoz’s approach: unique, accessible dishes that can easily pair with wine. The tuna is rubbed with cumin, paprika, garlic and salt, seared over high heat and served with a turnip-fennel cream sauce and stir-fried broccoli and bok choy finished with rice wine vinegar. The dish is topped with a perfectly runny medium-boiled egg. “I personally love broccoli. I remember eating it as a kid constantly; I was the weird kid who actually liked broccoli,” Munoz says. “I had an influence of Asian cuisine when I was thinking of this dish, and the bok choy and broccoli just seemed like something that was really going to tie it all together.” At home, Munoz suggests roasting broccoli with oil, salt and pepper until the outside is caramelized yet still tender. He also likes to pickle broccoli in a brine of distilled vinegar, white wine vinegar, jalapeños, coriander, oregano, sugar and salt. “I like how it’s spicy,” he says. “The jalapeño is really the secret ingredient of the pickle.”

1526 Walnut St., Kansas city, Missouri, tanninwinebar.com

TWisTed ranch ST. LOUIS. Vegetarians are used to meat substitutes – but what

about broccoli in place of bacon? At twisted ranch, the ranch dressing-themed restaurant in the Soulard neighborhood of St. Louis, broccoli is the main topping on the veggie-pesto flatbread. “We use the broccoli to give it more body and more crunch, so broccoli basically serves as the meat,” says executive chef John Harper. The flatbread starts with a pesto sauce base and is topped with broccoli, sundried tomatoes, spinach, Feta cheese and pesto-ranch. The restaurant, which went viral last year thanks to a Buzzfeed video, recently moved to bigger digs in Soulard, which allows Harper and his team to handle a higher volume of customers clamoring for the 31 flavors of housemade ranch. “Mostly you pair broccoli with Cheddar; we added the Feta to give it a little twist, and it goes really well with the pesto,” he says. “That’s what Twisted Ranch is – outside of the box.” 1731 S. Seventh St., St. louis, Missouri, twistedranch.com

nourish café & MarKeT n COLUMBIA, MO. You can have broccoli for breakfast at nourish

café afé & Market in Columbia, Missouri. The chicken-sausage gravy bowl begins with a base of roasted broccoli and sweet potatoes, which is topped with two local eggs and housemade gluten-free chicken-sausage gravy. “[The broccoli] is a good way to get more greens and veggies in, especially when you’re starting your day,” says owner Kalle Lemone. “Having a healthy, nutrient-rich meal like that [for breakfast] is pretty awesome.” Lemone says the goal at Nourish is to make healthy food taste indulgent, while giving customers meals packed with vitamins and nutrients; for instance, the Nourish Benedict combines sautéed greens, roasted red peppers and poached eggs served over quinoa balls with roasted red pepper Hollandaise. “[The breakfast bowl] is good for people who are new to healthy eating; they think they would never order broccoli in the morning,” she says. “But it has the comfort-food chicken-sausage gravy, too.” 1201 e. broadway, Ste. b, columbia, Missouri, nourishcafemarket.com

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AT CAFFETTERIA, WE BELIEVE

shelly la fata chef-owner, sidebar Written By Jessica vaughn

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PhotograPhy By amBer deery

COFFEE IS A FOOD GROUP.

columbia, mo. shelly La Fata began her columbia, missouri, pop-up concept,

Sidebar, as an off-season adventure. La Fata, who also runs ozark mountain Biscuit co.’s festival kitchen, uses her italian heritage as an inspiration for sidebar’s menu, and recently embarked on a monthlong trip to italy where she sampled regional cuisines and gained new insight into her culinary roots. on select nights at Klick’s and cafe Berlin, La Fata serves up a small plant-based menu, usually featuring fist-sized toasted ravioli. columbia Farmers’ market-goers can also occasionally pick up sidebar’s from-scratch pasta to take home. How did Sidebar get started? i travel a lot [because] i manage ozark mountain Biscuit co.’s festival kitchen. so when i came home, i didn’t really want to work on the food truck; i wanted to be more creative, and i had this venue of cafe Berlin available to me. i’ve worked in local foods in columbia for over 10 years now, so i know a lot of local farmers, and it just kind of came together. How do you plan your pop-up menus? every menu starts with visiting a farmer. i need to know what’s available and when. once i have a taste or an idea, i visit farms and stores, make phone calls and cook all day and night. i think about food constantly. i really like to study and make lists of "flavor affinities" – enhancing flavors by combining them. Why focus on plant-based meals? i went to a vegan culinary school in austin, texas, 12 years ago. my grandparents are from sicily, so i kind of organically have this love of cooking plants with an italian slant. You get a lot of your produce from your neighbor, Tony Speichinger. How does that work? he’s a 74-year old man who lives down the street from me; he’s lived in my neighborhood for over 50 years. the houses kind of built up around him, and he’s got a couple plots where homes would be, but instead it’s his farm. he offers to grow whatever i want or need for the next season. When i worked at Broadway Brewery, i’d see him come in, and he’d deliver produce and hang out in the kitchen and chit chat. [this year] i’m going to ask him to plant a lot of eggplant. it’s always been [one of my favorite foods] but i think i really learned how important it is to me on this trip [to italy]. i’m taken to another place when i eat roasted eggplant with tomato sauce and ricotta or Parmesan. there’s just so many ways to cook eggplant and get different textures, and i’m really interested in that. How has your trip to Italy inspired Sidebar? traveling to a new city every two days, i really got a taste for how important regional and local dishes are. i thought that was so special. one dish i'm excited to introduce to sidebar pop ups is called panzerotti fritto; it's a fried pizza pocket. among several tasty fillings, i'll be making fresh mozzarella to go inside. i’m going to be doing a lot of recipe development over the next year; i’m just trying to pick a place to start. i want to bring gnocchi to the farmers’ market, and i want to find great ways to make fresh pasta and package it for sale. once all of our spring produce starts rolling in, i’d really like to package up some sauces to pair with the products.

THE SHOPS OF

PRAIRIE VILLAGE 25 ON THE MALL

CaffetteriaModernCafe.com

facebook.com/sidebarcomo

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Regional RestauRant guide 4 Hands Brewing Co. 1220 S. Eighth St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.1559 4handsbrewery.com

Bluestem 900 Westport Road Kansas City, MO 816.561.1101 bluestemkc.com

Duke’s 2001 Menard St. St. Louis, MO 314.833.6686 dukesinsoulard.com

Hendricks BBQ 1200 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.8600 hendricksbbq.com

Alpha Brewing Co. 4310 Fyler Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.621.2337 alphabrewingcompany.com

Boundary 7036 Clayton Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.932.7818 boundary-stl.com

Eckert’s Country Restaurant 951 S. Green Mount Road Belleville, IL 618.233.0513 ext. 3 eckerts.com/country-restaurant

Hidden Lake Winery 10580 Wellen Road Aviston, IL 618.228.9111 hiddenlakewinery.com

Cafe Cusco 234 E. Commercial St. Springfield, MO 417.868.8088 cafecusco.com

Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard 10035 Edg-Clif Drive Potosi, MO 573.438.4741 edg-clif.com

Hogshead 4743 Pennsylvania Ave. Kansas City, MO 816.321.2929 hogsheadkc.com

Farmers Gastropub 2620 S. Glenstone Ave. Springfield, MO 417.864.6994 farmersgastropub.com

The Homesteader Cafe 100 E. Seventh St. Kansas City, MO 816.474.8333 thehomesteadercafe.com

Asian Cafe Bar & Grill 1260 Bryan Road O’Fallon, MO 636.272.4429 asiancafebg.com

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Aya Sofia 6671 Chippewa St. St. Louis, MO 314.645.9919 ayasofiacuisine.com

Cafe Natasha’s 3200 S. Grand Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.771.3411 cafenatasha.com

Basso 7036 Clayton Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.932.7820 basso-stl.com

Café Ventana 3919 W. Pine Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.531.7500 cafeventana.com

Farm to You Market Cafe 5025 Old Highway 100 Washington, MO 844.682.2266 farmtoyoumarket.com

House of Chow 2101 W. Broadway Columbia, MO 573.445.8800 houseofchow-como.com

Beast Craft BBQ Co. 20 S. Belt W Belleville, IL 618.257.9000 beastcraftbbq.com

Caffetteria 25 on the Mall Prairie Village, KS 816.756.2300 caffetteriakc.com

Fox & Hounds Tavern 6300 Clayton Road St. Louis, MO 314.647.7300 cheshirestl.com

Jackson Street BrewCo 106 N. Jackson St. Perryville, MO jstreetbrewco.com

Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas 325 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.3434 bellavinowinebarstl.com

Chaz on the Plaza at the Raphael Hotel 325 Ward Parkway Kansas City, MO 816.802.2152 raphaelkc.com

Fratelli’s Ristorante 2061 Zumbehl Road St. Charles, MO 636.949.9005 fratellisristorante.com

Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. multiple locations kaldiscoffee.com

The Biergarten at Anheuser-Busch 1200 Lynch St. St. Louis, MO 314.577.2626 budweisertours.com

Cinder Block Brewery 110 E. 18th Ave. North Kansas City, MO 816.298.6555 cinderblockbrewery.com

Gallagher’s 114 W. Mill St. Waterloo, IL 618.939.9933 gallagherswaterloo.com

KC Bier Co. 310 W. 79th St. Kansas City, MO 816.214.8691 kcbier.com

Bissell Mansion Restaurant & Dinner Theatre 4426 Randall Place St. Louis, MO 314.533.9830 bissellmansiontheatre.com

DD Mau Vietnamese Eatery 11982 Dorsett Road Maryland Heights, MO 314.942.2300 ddmaustl.com

Gerard’s Restaurant 1153 Colonnade Center Des Peres, MO 314.821.7977 stlgerards.net

LaChance Vineyards 12237 Peter Moore Lane De Soto, MO 636.586.2777 lachancevineyards.com

Bloom Café 5200 Oakland Ave. St. Louis, MO thebloom.cafe

Diablitos Cantina 4198 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.535.9700 diablitoscantina.com

The Gin Room 3200 S. Grand Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.771.3411 natashasginroom.com

Mai Lee 8396 Musick Memorial Drive Brentwood, MO 314.645.2835 maileestl.com

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SGF


Mary Jane Burgers & Brew 102 N. Jackson St. Perryville, MO 573.547.6279 maryjaneburgers.com

Paddy O’s 618 S. Seventh St. St. Louis, MO 314.588.7313 stlpaddyos.com

The Mixx multiple locations mixxingitup.com

Porter’s Steakhouse 1000 Eastport Plaza Drive Collinsville, IL 618.345.2400 porterscollinsville.com

We encourage you to visit any of these fine establishments as proud supporters of Feast Magazine. From fine dining to fast casual to local wineries and breweries, there is an array of experiences to choose from, so support and eat local!

BY REGION: St. Louis

Molly Darcys 26 N. Meramec Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.863.8400 mollydarcyspub.com

SGF

The Post Sports Bar & Grill 763 Old Ballas Road 7372 Manchester Road Creve Coeur, MO | Maplewood, MO 314.736.1205 | 314.645.1109 thepostsportsbar.com

Mother’s Brewing Co. 215 S. Grant Ave. Springfield, MO 417.862.0423 mothersbrewing.com

The Pressed Penny Tavern 1511 Westport Road Kansas City, MO 816.531.7687 thepressedpennytavern.com

The Muddled Pig Gastropub 2733 Sutton Blvd. Maplewood, MO 314.781.4607 themuddledpig.com

Rockfair Tavern 506 S. Franklin St. Cuba, MO 573.885.7518 facebook.com/rock.fair.tavern

St. Charles County Smitty’s Garage 8811 State Line Road Kansas City, MO 816.731.1455 eatatthegarage.com

Must -Try :

The Grilled Jalapeño-Bacon Cheeser features garlic aïoli, lettuce, tomato, onion, freshly grilled jalapeños, bacon and American cheese.

Three Sixty 1 S. Broadway St. Louis, MO 314.241.8439 360-stl.com

Kansas City Columbia, Missouri Springfield, Missouri

Mid-Missouri and Southern Missouri Southern Illinois Winery and Vineyard Brewery

Ruth’s Chris Steak House 1 N. Brentwood Blvd. #150 315 Chestnut St. Clayton, MO | St. Louis, MO 314.783.9900 | 314.259.3200 ruthschris.com

Trattoria Giuseppe 5442 Old State Route 21 Imperial, MO 636.942.2405 trattoria-giuseppe.com

O’Dowd’s 4742 Pennsylvania Ave. Kansas City, MO 816.561.2700 odowdskc.com

Rye 10551 Mission Road | 4646 JC Nichols Parkway Leawood, KS | Kansas City, MO 913.642.5800 | 816.541.3382 ryekc.com

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. 3229 Washington Ave. 4465 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.222.0143 urbanchestnut.com

Oishi Sushi & Steakhouse 100 Public Works Drive 721 North New Ballas Road Chesterfield, MO | St. Louis, MO 636.530.1198 | 314.567.4478 oishistl.com

Sanctuaria 4198 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.535.9700 sanctuariastl.com

Van Gogh’s Eeterie 334 E. Commercial St. Springfield, MO 417.344.0085 vangoghseeterie.com

Nudo 11423 Olive Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.274.8046 nudohousestl.com

Visit

Feastmagazine.com to view the regional restaurant guide and read more about some of the places listed here.

Stay up to date with the latest restaurant news by connecting with Feast: feastmag

@feastmag

@feastmag Original Springs Hotel Restaurant 506 N. Hanover St. Okawville, IL 618.243.5458 theoriginalspringshotel.com

Stone Hill Winery 1110 Stone Hill Highway Hermann, MO 573.486.2221 stonehillwinery.com

Wild Sun Winery 4830 Pioneer Road Hillsboro, MO 636.797.8686 wildsunwinery.com

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fruity kettles

Edelbrand Pure Distilling makes Swiss-style vinars, or fruit brandies, in Marthasville, Missouri, on p. 37. photography by sean locke


nontraditional

simple syrups The best bartenders know that the secret to a perfect drink is balance. Often, that comes from just the right amount of sweetness. WRITTen By nATAlIe GAllAGHeR

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PHOTOGRAPHy By STARBOARD & PORT cReATIve

simple syrup, made by dissolving sugar in boiling water, is the most common sweetener in cocktails, used to even out other flavor elements. but refined white sugar isn’t the only way to achieve this cocktail essential: local bartenders are experimenting with nontrAdtionAL SiMPLe SyruPS to bring the sweetness.

the Monarch KANSAS CITY. A lot of fancy-sounding ingredients go into the

Monarch’s Momento Mori, a Manhattan twist with two kinds of rye whiskey, a dark amaro, coal-roasted acorns and iron plum bitters, dreamed up by bartender Dominic Petrucci. Perhaps the most intriguing ingredient is the barrel-aged Demerara gomme. Demerara is a light brown, partially refined sugar made from processed cane juice; gomme is a liquid sweetener similar to simple syrup, made with an emulsifier called gum arabic. “In this drink, the advantage to using gomme is that it acts as a thickener and stabilizer, so it adds body without changing flavor,” says bar director Brock Schulte. Demerara has a natural molasses flavor, and coupled with the gomme, it lends the syrup a rich, velvety mouthfeel. “I’m a big fan of alternatives to simple syrup like this, because simple syrup is just sweet – there's no flavor. But the benefit of our Demerara gomme and alternatives like it is that you’re adding more flavor to the drink, and anytime you add more flavor, you're adding really interesting layers of texture and depth.” 4808 roanoke Pkwy, Kansas City, Missouri, themonarchbar.com

Scotch & Soda SPRINGFIELD, MO. “One of the constant struggles of cocktail

design most bartenders wrestle with is the want to impart specific flavors to an idea without adding any extra volume,” says Joshua Widner, owner of Scotch & Soda in Springfield, Missouri, and Bentonville, Arkansas. His Quick Fix cocktail packs many flavors brought on by vanilla bean-infused High West Double Rye, fresh lemon juice and a brown sugarclementine syrup. The syrup combines equal parts golden brown and dark brown sugar, clementine juice and zest, resulting in a rich sweetener. “We found using brown sugar helped create a silkier feel than other traditional sugars,” Widner says. “It gives the cocktail a bit more character than the thinner counterparts of whiskey and lemon; the Quick Fix truly is a little cocktail with a big bite.” 310 S. Ave., Springfield, Missouri, thescotchandsoda.com

Polite Society ST. LOUIS. At Polite Society in St. louis’ lafayette Square,

simple syrup gets a boost from sweet woodruff, a delicate herb with dainty, edible white flowers. It's steeped in a classic syrup, providing the sweetener for Begin the Beguine, a frothy cocktail, co-designed by bartender Riley Stahl, which also features Knickerbocker Barrel Gin, Salers (an herbal French liqueur), bee pollen, cream and lemon. “We get our sweet woodruff from Anne lehman from Dirty Girl Farms,” says beverage director Travis Hebrank. “It's there primarily for the aromatics. It adds this floral, slightly sweet [aroma].” Unlike a brown sugar or Demerara syrup, which add body to a cocktail, a white sugar syrup carries less weight. It was also ideal for the sweet woodruff because the herb has such a delicate flavor; anything other than white sugar might have imparted its own flavor properties. “What we’re looking for is balance,” Hebrank says, “which is the right mix of body, sweetness, aromatics and interesting flavors.” 1923 Park Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, politesocietystl.com

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q&A

megan downes beverage manager, the brass onion Written by Jenny Vergara

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PhotograPhy by William hess

OVERLAND PARK, KS. megan Downes honed her bartending skills by making handcrafted cocktails in both the city (gram & Dun) and the country (Justus Drugstore). now, she’s shaking up the suburbs as beverage manager at The Brass Onion, a refined comfort-food spot owned by the brancato Family of brancato’s Catering, which opened in January in overland Park, Kansas. Downes makes her own syrups, shrubs and tinctures to use in cocktails at the brass onion, such as the get Well soon, with W.l. Weller bourbon, a berry-tarragon shrub, lime and a smoked-honey syrup; and the Forgotten summer, with tito’s handmade Vodka, Cynar, a lemon-basil shrub, dry riesling syrup and Prosecco.

What inspired the cocktail menu? We just want to have a well-stocked, well-rounded bar, able to make any drink that a customer might come in and request. i also like to play with both the sweet and savory sides of the palate in a cocktail. i’m not always looking for booze to lead me; sometimes the focus of the cocktail can be built around something else. like with our signature cocktail –

as soon as I heard the name The Brass Onion, I knew we had to make our signature cocktail a Gibson. A cousin to the classic vodka or gin Martini, a Gibson typically uses pickled onions instead of briny olives. We’ve created four completely different versions of the drink, each with its own story to tell, featuring either russian imperia vodka,

Chase english vodka, anchor Junipero gin or Woody Creek gin. What’s the most important part of putting together a great bar program? hiring the right people with the right attitude. it was tough to find bartenders who have craft-cocktail experience out south; there just isn’t the saturation here like there is downtown, where there’s a craft-cocktail bar on every corner. so, instead of trying to hire people based on their technical abilities, which can be learned, i hired based on their quest for knowledge and their ability to connect with guests. How do you develop your cocktails? i always start with what’s in season. Chef [Frank Caputo] and i have big plans to grow an herb garden on the patio. i also have synesthesia, a neurological condition in which the stimulation of one sense produces experiences in a totally different sense. so, i may see certain colors or shapes when describing what something tasted like, and i can use this to help me dial in on what a certain drink may be missing. What else are you working on? We’ve started barrel-aging cocktails on wood, and plan to use this technique on different drinks as we move along. last time it was a manhattan, which was very popular, and we have a sidecar aging in the barrel. We’ve also rolled out a cocktail of the week to help my team continue to try new things, and give me an outlet to start testing out new drink recipes. 5501 W. 135th St., Ste. 2330, Overland Park, Kansas, thebrassonion.com

2 0 1 8 A P R I L - M AY E V E N T S Grapes to Glass - Various Dates Spring Fling - May 5 Kentucky Derby Day - May 5 FREE Live Music - Saturday’s May - October Maifest- May 19 & 20

FREE HISTORIC CELLAR TOURS Purchase our wine a t local retailers or online Hermann, MO • 800.909.9463 • stonehillwinery.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops. the Quarry Written by Lauren MierS

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photography by aaron ottiS

COLUMBIA, MO. Just a few steps off broadway, The

Quarry transports you from Columbia, Missouri, to new orleans. the new Southern spot touts Cajun-inspired food-and-drink offerings courtesy of owner Mike pratt’s love for the big easy. the Quarry’s drink menu has a Southern swing to it as well, featuring cocktails popular in new orleans, like the classic Sazerac with rye whiskey, absinthe, peychaud’s bitters and sugar. try the Firefly, with grapefruit vodka and sour jalepeño syrup. the Quarry also offers a lineup of lighter Martinis, such as the espresso Martini with almond milk, baileys irish Cream and three olives triple Shot espresso-flavored vodka. behind the bar, four taps pour abita amber from Louisiana alongside two local craft options from Logboat brewing Co., as well as bud Light. new orleans favorites like po’boys, étouffée, fried boudin balls and even crawfish quesadillas round out the menu. 1201 E. Broadway, Columbia, Missouri, facebook.com/thequarrycomo

Parker at the Fontaine Written by Jenny Vergara

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photography by anna petroW

KANSAS CITY. With new owners came an update for the rooftop

Brew huB taProom Story anD photography by MabeL Suen

ST. LOUIS. St. Louis’ ever-growing craft-beer scene

just got a hub for a new set of suds. Brew Hub Taproom debuted in the Cheltenham neighborhood in February, featuring 20 taps, a four-barrel pilot brewing system, a distilling operation and a barrelaging program. the tap room is St. Louis-based brew hub's first Missouri location, following the 2014 opening of its flagship brewery and tap room in Lakeland, Florida. behind the bar, patrons will find

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cocktails, wine and brew hub signatures such as its award-winning rome City ipa and Keybilly island ale. the latter is an approachable and refreshing light-golden ale finished with fresh Key lime juice. the beer list also offers a taste of beers brew hub’s 14-plus partner brewers, who brew under brew hub's brewmaster and use its infrastructure, allowing them to increase distribution without the overhead costs that equipment and space require.

restaurant and bar at the Fontaine hotel, now known as Parker at The Fontaine, named after iconic Kansas City jazz musician Charlie parker. the walls of the redesigned space feature moody shades of gray and deep blue to highlight leather bar stools. Live music on the weekends invokes the very spirit of parker, paired with a drink menu that's a collaboration between the staff, including head bartender adam Dworkis and corporate mixologist greg Sheer. try the brown butter old Fashioned featuring brown butter-washed Four roses bourbon, or the Local 627 with J. rieger & Co. whiskey, big o ginger liqueur, angostura bitters and Cinder block brewery cider. Don't miss the playful list of highballs mixed with polly’s pop, the iconic soda from independence, Missouri. Local beers on tap to try include torn Label brewing Co.'s Monk and honey and Stockyards brewing Co.'s black ipa. Martin City brewing Co.’s gluten-free beer, operation: yoga pants, is also available in cans. executive chef Kevin nicholls complements the drink selection with shareable small plates such as a cheese or charcuterie board served with locally cured meats, pickled vegetables and boulevard brewing Co. pale ale mustard.

5656 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, tapbrewhub.com

901 W. 48th Place, Kansas City, Missouri, thefontainehotel.com/eat-and-drink/parker


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mo

q&A

DRINK IN

martin weber & lynn delean-weber owners, edelbrand pure distilling Written by emily Wasserman

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PhotograPhy by sean locke

MARTHASVILLE, MO. For martin Weber and lynn Delean-Weber, fruit brandy

THESUNSET.

is a family affair. in 2013, the husband-and-wife team, who own Edelbrand Pure Distilling in marthasville, missouri, along with daughter tess Delean, decided to experiment with making the vinars, or fruit brandies, that Weber grew up drinking in switzerland. their basement moonshine project has since expanded into an award-winning distillery with six different vinars: apple infused with plum, pear, grape infused with dill, cherry, apricot and plum. most recently, edelbrand’s apple-plum brandy won gold at the national Washington cup spirits competition in kansas city. Tell us about vinars. Vinars is a term in romansh, a language spoken by 40,000 to 45,000 [people] in a small mountain region in switzerland; it means dry fruit brandies distilled in single-batch runs. a lot of people in switzerland with their own fruit trees do it. in my family, my grandpa was making his own mash; my sister’s husband makes his own mash and has it distilled. –Martin Weber

In Switzerland, you’d never end a meal without vinars being served. That’s where people sit and talk, and there’s no rush. –Lynn DeLean-Weber How do you make your vinars? We use a hand-cranked crusher to create a chunky fruit sauce, or mash. We fill tanks with mash and add water and yeast, and let the mash sit in the tanks for three to four months or longer, which gives the final product more flavor. on a saturday and sunday, we set up the copper stills at 5:30am, load the mash in and heat a water bath around the stills, [which] takes about 2½ hours. We put the distillate through two runs over two days. We use our own well water to dilute the spirit from 160 proof to 80 proof, or drinking strength. –M.W. How do you source your fruit? We get our apples at rasa orchards in lexington, missouri, and thierbach orchards in marthasville; we get our grapes from lost creek Vineyards in hermann. all the other fruits come from the West coast, plus roger hotop of hotop Family stand at the soulard Farmers’ market in st. louis, another family-run business. –L.D.W. Why did you decide against opening a tasting room? it’s the right decision because our goal is to make the local economy grow. it’s third- and fourth-generation farmers out here [in marthasville]. by us not having a tasting room, we encourage people to support local retailers that sell our products. –L.D.W. What does the future of Edelbrand look like? a micro-distiller produces less than 50,000 gallons of product a year; we do 120 gallons a year. We’re focused on the best quality and tinkering with it each year. We’re not waiting for someone with investment. you’re never going to see a large commercial still with “edelbrand” on it. it would change the whole thing. –L.D.W. edelbrandpuredistilling.com

A L I G H T- B O D I E D PA L E A L E W I T H A BRIGHT TROPICAL EDGE, T R O P T O P I S A B O T T L E O F PA R A D I S E BREWED FOR DRINKING IN THOSE SUNSET VIEWS.

WWW.MOTHERSBREWING.COM Inspired Local Food Culture

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StoRy, REcIPE anD PhotogRaPhy By ShanlEy cox

RhubaRb Scofflaw You can find rhubarb bitters at major and specialty liquor stores, or online. SERVES | 1 | candied rhubarb

½ cup water ½ cup granulated sugar 1 stalk rhubarb, leaves trimmed and discarded

rhubarb scofflaw

2 1 ½ ½ 2

oz rye whiskey oz dry vermouth oz fresh lemon juice oz grenadine dashes rhubarb bitters candied rhubarb, for garnish (recipe below)

| preparation – candied rhubarb | Preheat oven to 200°F. Prepare a baking sheet and set aside. In a small pot over medium-high heat, combine water and sugar. Bring to a boil and cook until sugar has dissolved; remove from heat. Slice rhubarb into thin strips using a mandoline. Dip each strip into sugar mixture and place in a flat layer on prepared baking sheet, making sure none are touching. Bake for 45 minutes and remove from oven. While strips are still warm, curl around the handle of a wooden spoon to form a spiral. Set aside.

| preparation – rhubarb scofflaw | In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine all ingredients except garnish and shake. Strain into a chilled coupe, garnish with candied rhubarb and serve.

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RhubaRb Scofflaw This Prohibition-era cocktail has stood the test of time thanks to its simple preparation. first introduced in 1924 at harry’s bar in Paris, the scofflaw was named after those americans who secretly imbibed during Prohibition. Made with whiskey, vermouth, lemon juice, grenadine and bitters, it’s both sweet and smooth. This seasonal update uses rhubarb's uniquely tart flavor for a delightful addition to the iconic whiskey drink. Shanley Cox is a writer and photographer and owner of Shanley Cox Creative, a Kansas City-based content studio.


on The shelf : aPrIl PIcks

WINE

Fence stile VineyArDs & Winery’s 2015 Missouri seyVAl written by Hilary HeDges

Provenance: excelsior springs, Missouri PaIrIngs: Roasted chicken • Sweet potatoes • Vegetable pasta with

W I N E R Y

it’s easy to see why the estate-grown seyval is one of the most popular wines at Fence Stile Vineyard & Winery in excelsior springs, Missouri. seyval blanc is a French-american hybrid grape that grows in small, tight clusters and ripens mid-season. owner shriti Hallberg Plimpton compares it to Chardonnay, and says it does particularly well with oak aging. Fence stile uses a combination of French and Missouri oak, as well as stainless steel, to age the seyval; the result is a dry and full-bodied wine with well-balanced flavors of baked apple, pear and hints of vanilla. the oak aging adds complexity and depth, making it an interesting and food-friendly wine. Fence stile’s Missouri seyval is available at its tasting room and winery in excelsior springs. fencestile.com Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City.

BEER

Dine In take Out order online

photography by tracie yu

garlic sauce

Hours:

mon-fri: 10:30am - 8:00pm sat: 11:30am - 7:00pm

olD BAkery Beer co.’s DigitAl nAtiVe written by ryan niCKelson

sTyle: iPa with pineapple (6.3% abV) PaIrIngs: Aged Asiago • Szechuan chicken • Key lime pie

11982 Dorsett Rd. | Maryland Heights, MO 314.942.2300 ddmaustl.com

Wild Sun Winery… Where the outside world ends and serenity begins. For information regarding Weddings/Private Events, email us at info@wildsunwinery.com Follow us for our weekly music lineup. 4830 Pioneer Road, Hillsboro, MO 63050 636-797-8686 | www.wildsunwinery.com

Digital native, part of the new Hop series line of beers from Old Bakery Beer Co. in alton, illinois, is an exciting take on a super-dank iPa with the addition of pineapple juice. aromatics of bright, citrusy hops set the palate up for huge flavor. this beer is all tropical: Pineapple and citrus flavors are in perfect harmony with a slight crisp bitterness that keeps things from getting too sweet. oldbakerybeer.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, a craft beer shop in Clayton, Missouri, with an upcoming location in South City. To learn more, visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.

SPIRIT

Boot Hill Distillery’s Prickly AsH Bitters written by Jenn tosatto

Provenance: Dodge City, Kansas (35% abV) Try IT: in place of absinthe in a Death in the afternoon

Prickly ash bitters – an amaro, despite the name – was once produced widely; the product and its eponymous distillery went out of business in 1910. Boot Hill Distillery in Dodge City, Kansas, decided to recreate the american amaro at its “soil to sip” distillery, controlling every aspect of its small-batch production. botanicals include cubeb peppers, grains of paradise, prickly ash bark, buchu leaves, coriander and senna. the nose is unmistakable earth and pine, with just a hint of camphor to it. the flavor begins sweet and melts very quickly into a pleasing bitterness. notes of mint, citrus and menthol round the amaro out nicely. it’s altogether very unique and just as beautiful added to a dry sparkling white wine as it is in coffee or tea. boothilldistillery.com You can find Jenn Tosatto running the bar at Mission Taco Joint's Kansas City location. She also loves donating her skills to many charity events around the city, as well as working private events. Inspired Local Food Culture

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PROMOTION

to ing in u n i rint ont re c fo ot p we’re a d s, on egi ion an wer ie t heir r r t g u e in o i stribu ed br andin ews. s e n i p r d r e u st tyles, st-op all, ex at ive b d n s ju ri sm ov b ee gs and s from g and d inn t f i r in an ra d c f offer w bee both b ional n a t e , i o c s n esti rang e iti ng vo rit e l, trad m c o a r x f d e o na ei The nd th with l ishe d f seas a g b o exp . Alon l-es ta ange 8 l r 1 e a 20 ng w h i wit e s e o i s tfol po r

samuel adams

sam ‘76

Sam ’76 is a revolutionary new beer that is an unmatched combination of refreshment, craft flavor and aroma. Sam Adams’ brewers blend both lager and ale yeast strains to deliver a distinct flavor that showcases the slight fruitiness of an ale with the balanced drinkability and smoothness of a lager. Pair with pigs in a blanket, shrimp spring rolls, grilled pork chops and strawberry shortcake.

william k. BuscH Brewing co.

kräftig ligHt Kräftig Light is the new light lager standard for today’s flavor-focused beer-drinker. Its clean, well-balanced flavor, with subtle malt sweetness and hop character, makes it unique for a domestic premium light. Pair with hot wings, pepperoni pizza and Thai food. kraftig.com

4 Hands Brewing co.

ripple wHite ale

Ripple is a Belgian white ale with orange peel from St. Louis’ 4 Hands Brewing Co. Brewed with a generous portion of wheat, Ripple is a smooth, refreshing beer with a bright, fruity aroma. The ale pours golden in color with a slight haze. 4handsbrewery.com

samueladams.com

cinder Block Brewery

n nortHtown n native

kc Bier co.

pils p

Jstreet Honey kolscH

Northtown Native from Cinder Block Brewery is the beer you have at the end of the shift or just a long day. It’s a light, refreshing, full-bodied ale that is brewed and fermented as if it were a lager. Up front, the taste is light and crisp, with a malt backbone and American Sterling hops finish, to create a great session beer.

A traditional German-style Pilsner packed with flavor, Pils by KC Bier Co. is crisp, clean and refreshing. Brewed with 100-percent imported German malt and hops, Pils’ noble hop character pairs perfectly with rich, salty foods like pizza or steak. Accolades for Pils include a third-place win in the Continental Pilsner category at the 2014 Great International Beer, Cider & Mead Competition.

JStreet Honey Kolsch from Jackson Street BrewCo is a light, easy-drinking kolsch-style beer. The kolsch is made with honey resourced locally from Riverbend Honey out of Cape Girardeau, Missouri, which adds a slight sweetness to the beer’s flavor profile. It is one of the most popular beers on tap at the tasting room in downtown Perryville, Missouri.

kcbier.com

jstreetbrewco.com

cinderblockbrewery.com

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PROMOTION

Mother’s brewing Co.

elysian brewing

lil’ helper

spaCe Dust

golDen roaD brewing

Mother’s Brewing Co.’s Lil’ Helper is a “Midwest Coast” IPA that’s hopped in both the wort kettle and aging vessel for a sharp, clean bitterness and fragrant, citrusy hop flavors. A mellow malt character backbone balances the elevated hop character.

The hopping in Elysian Brewing’s Space Dust is pure starglow energy. With Chinook hops to bitter, as well as late and dry hop additions of Citra and Amarillo, this is a totally nebular IPA.

Hoppy and refreshing, Wolf Pup by Golden Road Brewing is a riff on a session IPA. Highly drinkable with a wildly aromatic citrus character, it’s the perfect companion to keep sippin’ on those long, sunny days.

wolf pup

elysianbrewing.com

goldenroad.la

mothersbrewing.com

alpha brewing Co.

Delphian

Time and patience give this beer its clean, crisp tang. Delphian is a dry-hopped sour blonde ale from Alpha Brewing Co. that’s aged in California Chardonnay barrels. Its yeast was first cultured from rosé wine barrels, giving this beer a more winelike quality. The Mosaic hops add a fruity punch to the back end of this bright, tart ale, which blend with the white grape flavors and aromas from the Chardonnay barrels.

urban Chestnut brewing Co. b

b shark big l leMon raDler

eDg-Clif brewing Co.

St. Louis’ Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. has teamed up with local Big Shark Bicycle Co. to bring you this lager mixed with lemon soda. It’s an easy-drinking, thirst-quenching beverage with noticeable sweetness and a bright finish – the ideal libation for that post- (or non) cycling occasion.

Black Lager is a dark, roasty beer that’s also clean and crisp, making its smooth taste approachable for those new to dark beers. All of Edg-Clif’s Brewing Co.’s craft beers are brewed on-site and available on tap at the Potosi, Missouri, tasting room. Take a growler home to pair with pub favorites like burgers and pizza.

blaCk lager

urbanchestnut.com

edg-clif.com/brewery.html

alphabrewingcompany.com

Crisp or Clean

hoppy or bitter

fruity

Samuel Adams 30 Germania St., Boston, MA 02130 617.368.5080

Mother’s Brewing Co. 215 S. Grant Ave., Springfield, MO 65806 417.862.0423

Alpha Brewing Co. 4310 Fyler Ave., St. Louis, MO 63116 314.621.2337

William K. Busch Brewing Co. St. Louis, MO

Elysian Brewing 1.844.467.5463

4 Hands Brewing Co. 1220 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, MO 63104 314.436.1559

Golden Road Brewing 1.844.452.2337

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. 3229 Washington Ave., St. Louis, MO 63103 4465 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, MO 63110 314.222.0143

Cinder Block Brewery 110 E. 18th Ave., North Kansas City, MO 64116 816.298.6555 KC Bier Co. 310 W. 79th St., Kansas City, MO 64114 816.214.8691

roasty Edg-Clif Brewing Co. 10035 Edg-Clif Drive, Potosi, MO 63664 573.438.4741

Jackson Street BrewCo 106 N. Jackson St., Perryville, MO 63775

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cake boss

Frosted Cakerie serves up whimsical custom cakes in Joplin, Missouri, on p. 46. photography by mark NeueNschwaNder


OreganO & Thyme mediTerranean markeT and deli WrITTen by Jenny vergara phoTography by angela bond

MISSION, KS. Ted and daisy gavalas, owners of

Oregano & Thyme Mediterranean Market and Deli in Mission, Kansas, aim to introduce the Kansas city area to artisan food products from southern europe, including greece, spain, Italy and France. The market opened in december along Johnson drive, selling a wide variety of dried, canned and packaged Mediterranean products in addition to frozen items and a deli case featuring imported charcuterie and cheeses including prosciutto, jamón serrano, parmesan, Murcia cheese in wine, and a sharp greek sheep’s milk cheese called kefalotiri. French bread and pastries are baked in-house daily, and charcuterie party platters can be ordered by calling ahead. every day, daisy also prepares lunch specials from items found in the market; a recent offering was cocido, a spanish soup made with a slow simmered ham stock, cannellini beans and kale, and a savory greek pie with Feta and ricotta cheeses encased in puff pastry. shop the market for a wide selection of reasonably priced quality olive oils, crackers, spices, phyllo dough, mixed olives, dried Italian pastas, 00 Italian flour, boxes of spanish paella, condiments, sauces, jams, caponata, tapenade, stuffed grape leaves, european hard candies and organic free-trade chocolates. 6116 Johnson Drive, Mission, Kansas, oreganoandthyme.com

WrITTen by nancy sTIles

tovolo cupcake scoop Making cupcakes and muffins is a breeze with the Tovolo cupcake scoop. It fills with just the right amount of batter for a standard cupcake tin, and the silicone plunger scrapes the scoop clean as it dispenses batter, making your baking drip-free every time. For more information or to purchase the cupcake scoop, visit tovolo.com.

norpro honey dispenser sidestep sticky fingers with norpro’s stylish honey and syrup dispenser. The glass beehive makes it easy to drizzle honey without getting it all over the place – or yourself. Fill the base with hot water to ensure that the honey around the spout doesn’t crystallize while in use.

phoTo courTesy Tovolo

For more information or to purchase the honey dispenser, visit norpro.com. phoTo courTesy norpro

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TradiTional Chinese Cuisine wiTh a modern TwisT

Peruvian Dining

in SpringField MO

from our house to yours since 1981 234 East Commercial St, Springfield, MO 417.868.8088 | www.cafecusco.com

573.445.8800 2101 W Broadway Columbia, MO 65203

Zuckerbach Vineyards

Located in Albers, IL just 5 minutes from Hidden Lake John toennies, lee & nick Deiters own a beautiful 5 acre vineyard .they grow 7 different varieties of grapes both red and white that are all sent to Hidden Lake to create award winning wines.

Heimann Vineyards

An established 7 acre vineyard planted in the late 90’s located in Centralia, IL. Owned by Dan & Jan Duncan and Ryan Heimann, this is a family owned and farmed vineyard where the grapes are hand picked. Grower Ryan Heimann received Illinois Grape Grower of the Year in 2015.

“Premium quality produce and specialty products from around the world and around the corner” For over 30 years, Sunfarm has been proudly serving • Restaurant • Hotels • Caterers • Fine Institutions

hiddenlakewinery.com – Winery Open 7 Days a Week!

Sunfarm Food Service 2427 North 9th St., Saint Louis, MO 63102 314.241.1288 • www.sunfarmfs.com

5.5

dirty dozen mud run in festus west city park

up

co

Climb, crawl & slip through 12 muddy obstacles on a 2-mile course. DJ during the day. $40 registration through April 13, $50 after, includes event tee & beverage of your choice.

6.2

mayor’s spring cruise in downtown festus

mi

ng

Cruise with the mayor. All vehicles welcome. Car show before cruise, live music after. If you’re not cruising, bring your lawn chairs and coolers.

ev

Winery•Dining•event Center•Cabin rentals

10580 Wellen Rd | Aviston, IL 62216 | 618-228-9111

en

30 annual firecracker in festus west city park 6.22 – 6.23 festival th

Only 20 minutes from St. Louis, Kimmswick and Jefferson County & Ste. Genevieve wine countries.

ts

6.22: Hillbilly Authority, 6-10pm • 6.23: John McEuen, Scotty Bratcher, Edgar Winter Band, 6-10pm

6.30 swingin’ under the stars in festus west city park The Missouri Big Band, 6-9pm

Head to Festus’ Facebook page For more details on tHese events and more.

For a one night stay or a weekend getaway, stay at one of these fine establishments. www.cityoffestus.org

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kristen radaker sheafer owner, frosted cakerie |

PHOtOgraPHy by Mark NeueNSCHWaNder

JOPLIN, MO. At Frosted Cakerie in downtown Joplin,

N eO O

Missouri, owner Kristen Radaker Sheafer operates a cut above ordinary bakeshops. Her cakes, cookies and desserts are sleek and modern, with frosting techniques that range from abstract watercolors to bold rainbow drizzles topped with playful unicorns. Frosted Cakerie opened in 2016 after a successful Kickstarter campaign, but Sheafer is open to the public just one day a week. The daring business strategy might seem half-baked, but her Instagram account offers an endless flurry of teaser photos that keeps customers devoted to the cake shop’s unconventional schedule, and her fan base just keeps rising.

Ne

ON

WrItteN by rOSe HaNSeN

q&a

What inspired you to open the Frosted Cakerie? I actually don’t have any formal culinary training. I’ve been baking since I was about 6 years old, taught by my mother and grandmother. My background is in design, but I found sitting behind a computer 40 hours a week to be draining rather than inspiring. I’ve always loved making beautiful food, and cake design has provided a very hands-on outlet for that creativity. I chose to work with sweets because I love the opportunity to dream up exclusive works of edible art for the significant events in people’s lives. I find beauty in the temporary nature of what we do; we try to never make the exact same design twice. How is social media integral to your business plan? We have the advantage of having a visual product that people enjoy seeing. The inspiration for our social media comes directly from the cakes we create with our clients. For the cakes themselves, we draw inspiration from the client’s vision, event decorations or invitations, Pinterest boards, or even their favorite piece of clothing or artwork. Social media is our most effective means of promoting our business: A bride’s friends will tag her in a wedding cake, or moms will share photos of their children’s birthday cakes and that’s how we get the bulk of our business – basically online word-of-mouth. Why did you decide to open to the public only one day a week? We may only be open on Wednesdays, but we do most of our business on Friday and Saturday. We have the privilege of custom orders being our bread and butter, as well as our main passion. Wednesdays allow us to meet our customers, interact with the community and let people taste what we offer without having to purchase an entire cake. The rest of the week, we’re busy baking and designing wedding cakes, baby-shower cookies and birthday-party treats. We simply wouldn’t have time to give each order the attention it deserves if we were worried about keeping the front of the shop stocked with assorted treats daily at this time, but it may be something we consider in the future. Apart from the design of the cakes, our number-one priority is making something that tastes at least as good as it looks. We bake everything fresh from small batches within a few days of the day it will be eaten. We use local ingredients when possible; my current obsession is Edgewood Creamery’s Milk & Honey fromage blanc, made in Purdy, Missouri. We also use their incredible cream-line milk in all of our cakes and frostings. 124 S. Main St., Joplin, Missouri, frostedjoplin.com

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I’m Just Here For Dessert Written By lauren smith

Caroline Khoo, made famous by her pretty and pink online dessert boutique nectar and stone, released her first cookbook, I’m Just Here for Dessert, in January. layered like a cake, as Khoo describes it, each chapter is a true visual journey, showcasing her prowess in fashion and creative design – the very things that make her desserts so memorable. accustomed to eating in style, Khoo arranges new flowers throughout her home every week, which helps her to develop her floral aesthetic and creative flow when testing a new recipe. her recipes include tips for executing design: For instance, topping cotton-candy cupcakes with edible violas or glazing donuts with a rosewater ombré icing. Khoo makes many sweets in an “eeni meeni” version – easy to eat, elegant and inviting. “Dessert has a place in its setting: sometimes it’s there to be enjoyed and celebrated by family and friends, other times it’s a singular, self-indulgent experience,” she writes. Whether you’re trying your hand at inventive meringues or mastering the basics, Khoo’s tips and tricks will help you create something truly beautiful. by Caroline khoo murdochbooks.com.au


Rockfair

Tavern

NOODLE HOUSE SPECIALIZING IN RAMEN AND PHO

11493 Olive Blvd nudostl.com @nudohousestl

A Classic for More than 30 Years

ity C s a s Kan f o t Bes e h ce t n e i r e p x E

8396 Musick Memorial Dr maileestl.com @maileestl

dinner, drinks & desserts

Historic Landmark Hotel Historic Landmark & Iconic Country Club Plaza Hotel

& Country Club Plaza raphaelkc.com/Packages

Restaurant and Lounge 3 Blocks South of Route 66 816-474-8333 thehomesteadercafe.com

506 S. Franklin St., Cuba, MO 65453 573-885-7518

Steaks & Seafood by Chef Joe Cizek chazontheplaza.com

Romantic Getaway & Celebration Packages

KC Jazz Nightly & Classic Kansas City Restaurant & Lounge Weekend Jazz Brunch Live KC Jazz Nightly & Weekend Jazz Brunch

raphaelkc.com/Event

Honored to be selected

for a gift bag given to

celebrities in hollywood for

oscar weekend WINERY HOURS:

Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday – 11am-6pm Friday – 11am-10pm (Starting mid-April) Saturday – 11am-8pm

12237 Peter Moore Lane | DeSoto, MO 63020 636-586-2777 | lachancevineyards.com

Like us on facebook

325 Ward Parkway I Country Club Plaza I 816.756.3800 I raphaelkc.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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Farm 2 Counter written by kaitLyn McconneLL pHotoGrapHy by starboarD & port creative

SPRINGFIELD, MO. From yacht chef to food-delivery-service founder, paul allen has spent years sharing healthy and tasty foods. He recently increased his efforts by opening Farm 2 Counter, a convenience store specializing in organic and local grab-and-go options in springfield, Missouri. “i call us the williams sonoma of convenience stores,” allen says, “because we’re not a grocery store, but it’s our take on it.” after finding the location several months ago – which was previously a traditional convenience store – allen and his wife, ashley, decided to repurpose part of it as a retail space. today, with stained concrete floors and stainless steel-and-wood shelving, the store is sleek and fresh. the small store packs a ton of local finds, including a rainbow of fresh produce, often sourced from nearby farms; a best-seller is honey with the comb from an amish community in Dunnegan, Missouri. there are bags of coffee from ozark Mountain coffee co., zucchini relish, black beans, treats from springfield-based the Date Lady, barbecue sauce, local baked goods, freezers of meat and coolers of cheese. but that’s just the beginning. organic, non-GMo tractor beverage co. sodas can be enjoyed straight from the fountain, and specialty drinks like Mexican coke and craft beer are also available. it’s all part of allen’s plan to help locals eat healthier at a reasonable price. “we try to shop local first, and what we can’t get local we get in organic, but we try to keep it a fair price,” he says. “so we keep it at the same price of a normal convenience store.”

2006 N. Broadway Ave., Springfield, Missouri, farm2counter.com

artisan products marcoot jersey creamery whey ices written by HeatHer riske

GREENVILLE, IL. Marcoot Jersey

yellowtree farm ceramics written by Lauren sMitH

Creamery has earned a reputation in the st. Louis area for its Gouda, caved-aged cheeses and cheese curds, but the Greenville, illinois, creamery is now expanding into the frozen-foods aisle. in December, Marcoot launched six flavors of fruit and whey ices made with whey left over from the cheesemaking process. similar to an italian ice, the frozen treat combines Marcoot’s natural, grass-fed whey with 100 percent crushed fruit. Flavors include lemonade, mango, lime, pineapple, beetroot-berry and strawberry-banana (the most popular); the Marcoots also hope to release seasonal flavors such as peach-pear-apricot and cranberry-cherry. the whey ices are currently available at the creamery’s country store in Greenville as well as Dierbergs and schnucks locations in the st. Louis area.

ST. LOUIS. in st. Louis, justin Leszcz salvages wood from renovations of old buildings in south city and turns them into sophisticated and functional pieces of art under the name YellowTree Farm. Leszcz, a self-taught artisan woodworker, has collaborated with local businesses including sump coffee, confluence kombucha, Lulu’s Local eatery, sardella, privado and more to create custom coffee and espresso cups, dark wood-rimmed coasters, 12-inch glazed ceramic plates, minimalistic wood tables and stained-wood serving boards. you can find his products online and at union studio in botanical Heights. although ceramics and woodworking are his main trade, Leszcz also owns biointensive yellowtree Farm, which grows rhubarb and grapes from a century-old vineyard in Fenton, Missouri.

marcootjerseycreamery.com

yellowtreefarm.com

pHoto courtesy Marcoot jersey creaMery

pHotoGrapHy courtesy rj Heartbeck

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unique selection of

Craft Beers andWines Join ou rV Wine Cl iP ub and

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Now in the Central West End An Oil & Vinegar Emporium Help us to welcome our newest Extra Virgin Olive Oils... Including three big winners at the New York International Olive Oil Competition. Including oils from Italy, Spain, Sicily, Greece and California Shop with us for your gourmet salt, pasta and seasoning needs. NEW for 2018, HEMP SEED PASTA. Limited Quantities Available. Check Website for Class Availability • diolivas.com St. Charles 617 S Main St St Charles, MO 63301 (P) 636.724.8282

Central West End 115 N. Euclid between West Pine and Lindell 314-367-OILS (6457)

JOIN US FOR SUNDAY BRUNCH OR DINNER! Enjoy Our Award Winning Breakfast Menu With Our Delicious Boozy Breakfast Cocktails & Chef Mehmet's Whole Roasted Lamb. Lunch: Tues-Fri :: Dinner: Tues-Sun :: Sunday Brunch Wine Flights: Tues-Wed :: Happy Hour: Tues-Fri Available for Private Parties and Catering

Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine. Known for our Meze (Small Plates), Lamb Dishes, Fresh Fish and Excellent Wine Selection.

6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com

Bring this in for $10 off per person “Mayhem in Mayberry”

Welcome to the annual “Miss Mayberry”contest. YOU decide who will walk away with the crown as the contestants are chosen from the audience. They will be judged on beauty, poise, cookin’ skills and a new category this year – hog callin.’ Join Sheriff Andy, Deputy Blarney and Aint Bee for a night of merriment and murder in this interactive comedy mystery served with a 4-course meal to Die for! Call for reservations today at 314-533-9830 Coupon valid through April 29, 2018. Not valid for groups.

Bissell Mansion Dinner Theatre

4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com

TRY US FOR YOUR SPECIAL OCCASION! Chi Mangia Bene Vive Bene! “To Eat Well is to Live Well” Proudly Serving Authentic Italian Food in a Family Atmosphere. Birthday, Graduation, Retirement, Corporate Parties! Let Us Cater Your Special Occasion Try Our Party Pans For A Delicious Meal For Any Size Group Prime Rib Dinners the last weekend of every month Now selling our Signature Salad Dressing and Pasta Sauce. Bottled with love by our family for your family. Reservations Recommended, Hours of Operation: Tuesday - Saturday 11am-10pm • Sunday Noon-9pm • Closed Monday

5442 Old Hwy 21• Imperial • 636.942.2405 • trattoria-giuseppe.com 50

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Thank you to our sponsors!

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ChesterďŹ eld 633 Spirit of St. Louis Blvd. 636.519.1611 Maryland Heights 11585 Lackland Rd. 314.677.6713 beckallencabinetry.com


chill out

Greek yogurt adds extra tang to this refreshing grapefruit-basil frozen yogurt on p. 54. photography by kristen doyle


healthy appetite

Story, recipe and photography by KriSten doyle

Grapefruit-Basil frozen Greek YoGurt Frozen yogurt is best if served within 24 hours of preparation. ServeS | 4 |

¾ cup fresh grapefruit juice (from about 2 large grapefruits) 2 cups full-fat plain Greek yogurt or vanilla Greek yogurt 3 Tbsp honey, plus more to taste 1 Tbsp vanilla extract 1 tsp fresh basil, finely chopped

| preparation | in a large mixing bowl, add all ingredients and stir together until well incorporated. transfer mixture to a freezer-safe glass loaf pan and cover with aluminum foil. Freeze for 6 hours or overnight. remove from freezer 30 minutes before serving to soften. once softened, stir until creamy and scoop into 4 ice-cream bowls; serve.

%PG

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 6

Grapefruit-Basil frozen Greek YoGurt if you have a basic glass loaf pan, making rich and creamy frozen yogurt at home is easy – no fancy gadgets required. My recipe calls for greek yogurt in place of whole milk, which provides extra tang, while grapefruit juice adds tartness and fresh basil imparts a pleasing herbal note. the result is a frozen treat bursting with bright citrus flavor and earthy undertones. if grapefruit and basil aren’t your favorite flavors, almost any fresh fruit and herb combination will work: blackberry-lime-cilantro-mint, cantaloupe-mint, cucumber-lemon-mint-rosemary, mango-basil, blackberry-sage and more. Kristen Doyle is the creator of award-winning website dineanddish.net. Since early 2006, she has been sharing her favorite recipes, photos and life stories with an ever-growing audience of engaged readers. Beyond her blog, Doyle has expanded her freelance food and travel writing and photography career to include work with major brands as well as providing editorial content and direction for nationwide print publications and websites. Follow her on social media @dineanddish.


a Beer

@ e Adventur

Embark on

1 hour South of St. Louis

www.edg-clif.com

16 Yearlong & Seasonal Rotating Taps Hand-Crafted Wood Fire Pizza Pies

Fresh Brews on Tap

Sister Restaurant: Mary Jane Burgers & Brew • Just 2 doors down

Vineyard Tours • Wine Tasting • Craft Beers • AirBnB

April’s selling season is in full swing, Surely a new address will give your step some Spring. Be you Dweller or seller, house hunting is not for the faint of heart, So let’s create a strategy that sets YOU apart!

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Smithsonian A SMITHSONIAN AFFILIATE

Destination Moon: The Apollo 11 Mission is organized by the National Air and Space Museum and the Smithsonian Institution Traveling Exhibition Service. The exhibition is made possible by the support of Jeff and MacKenzie Bezos, Joe Clark, Bruce R. McCaw Family Foundation, the Charles and Lisa Simonyi Fund for Arts and Sciences, John and Susann Norton, and Gregory D. and Jennifer Walston Johnson. Transportation services for Destination Moon are provided by FedEx. The Saint Louis Science Center’s presentation of Destination Moon: The Apollo 11 Mission is funded by The Boeing Company and The William T. Kemper Foundation.

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story and recipe by shannon weber photography by jennifer silverberg

Tamarind-Cardamom Cake wiTh BuTTermilk Glaze serves Cake

12 4 1¼ ¾ 1½ 1½ ¼ ½ 2 to 3 1 ¾ 3 ²⁄₃

Glaze

1½ 3 2 2

| 16 | oz sweet dried tamarind pods Tbsp water, plus more as needed cups all-purpose flour cup cake flour Tbsp poppy seeds tsp baking powder tsp baking soda tsp kosher salt cardamom pods, seeds finely ground with mortar and pestle cup granulated sugar cup buttermilk large eggs cup olive oil

the unassuming little pod packs quite a punch.

cups powdered sugar Tbsp buttermilk cardamom pods, seeds finely ground Tbsp prepared tamarind pulp (recipe below)

| preparation – cake | preheat oven to 350°f and butter and flour an 8-inch loaf pan. break apart tamarind pods and remove shells and large membranes from outer pulp. in a small saucepan over low heat, add 4 tablespoons water and pulp; use a spatula to soften and break up pulp from seeds. add more water if needed and cook until mixture has softened. press mixture through a fine-mesh strainer to remove seeds and solids; reserve tamarind pulp and set aside. in a medium mixing bowl, whisk together next 7 ingredients. in a large mixing bowl, whisk together sugar, buttermilk, eggs, olive oil and 4 tablespoons of prepared tamarind pulp until smooth and combined. fold dry ingredients into buttermilk mixture until combined and no dry spots remain. pour into prepared loaf pan and bake for 50 to 60 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center of cake comes out clean or with a few crumbs. allow to cool to room temperature.

| preparation – glaze | in a medium mixing bowl, whisk together powdered sugar and buttermilk until smooth. add ground cardamom and prepared tamarind pulp and whisk until combined, adding more liquid or powdered sugar as needed to reach desired consistency. | to serve | slowly pour glaze over cooled cake and allow to set for 10 minutes. serve.

meet: Tamarind Pods What Is It? Tamarind is a sweet-tart member of the legume family. It's originally from North Africa, although many assume it hails from India or Southeast Asia, given its prevalence in both cultures’ cuisines. Tamarind pods are slightly pudgy and smooth to the touch, with a bumpy shape reminiscent of a certain illustrated very hungry caterpillar. Tamarind grows green and sour, but when left to ripen, the pods brown and the flavor mellows. Crack the thin shell open, and you’ll find a soft, sticky pulp similar to a Medjool date. What do I do WIth It? If you’ve never snacked on a dried tamarind pod, you should: There’s a row of seeds you’ll have to weed out

like cherry pits, but that’s part of the fun. The slight acidity makes it perfect in both sweet and savory vehicles: It’s a main ingredient in both Worcestershire sauce and HP Sauce, and you’ll find it kicking around in pad Thai and curry dishes. Use tamarind’s sour side to your advantage in meat and vegetable glazes; brush some on in the final minutes of cooking for a whole new level of flavor. Thinned out, it’s a welcome addition to vinaigrettes, cocktails and sodas. You can buy tamarind in many forms: pods, paste or concentrate. Steer clear of the concentrate, unless your recipe calls for it, as it’s syrupy and intense. Work with either the paste or the pods; both should be heated with water to thin into a medium paste.

Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as Bon Appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes that the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and life.


Gerard’s Restaurant rich in Culinary tradition

St. Louis’ Premier Home Accent & Gift Store for the home | for the body | for the memories

Proudly Serving St. Louis for 23 Years

Made to order  Steaks  Pasta  Oysters  Fresh Fish Vanilla Blanc Hand Wash, $16

Happy Bunny Wood Serving Board, $20

Colonnade Center 1153 Colonnade Center | Des Peres 314-821-7977 | stlgerards.net

Our Happy Place Mariposa Frame, $49

127 E. Argonne Dr. | Kirkwood, MO | christophersgifts.com | 314-909-0202

brunch & bottomless mimosas unlimited mimosas and bloody marys

for $10

*$10 unlimited Mimosas and Bloody Marys are available on Saturdays and Sundays.

2620 S Glenstone Ave, Springfield, MO 65804 (417) 864-6994 | farmersgastropub.com

photography by jennifer silverberg

SOAK IN

Spring

4742 PENNSYLVANIA KCMO COUNTRY CLUB PLAZA

20 SOUTH BELT WEST | BELLEVILLE, IL | 618.257.9000

Sunday - Thursday /// 11:00AM-1:30AM Friday + Saturday /// 11:00AM-3:00AM

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quick fix

PaPPardelle

story and recipe by Gabrielle deMichele photoGraphy by jennifer silverberG

PaPPardelle With lemon, BaBy artichokes and asParagus Any pappardelle pasta will work in this recipe, but I recommend looking for an imported variety. Imported pasta is typically made with bronze dies and double 00 flour, resulting in pasta that will hold its shape and texture better than other types. The noodles even taste the same the next day, making for great leftovers. serves | 4 TO 6 |

With Lemon, BaBy artichokes and asparagus there's so much you can do with fresh asparagus – cream of asparagus soup, cheesy asparagus tarts and quiches or just simply grilled and served with a hollandaise or mustard sauce. in the Midwest, asparagus is at its peak from early March to june; this month, make the most of fresh asparagus in this simple yet flavorful pasta dish. here, we’re using pappardelle pasta, the broad, flat noodles that resemble ribbons. pappardelle originated in the italian region of tuscany; the name comes from the verb pappare, which means “to gobble up.” i’ve paired the noodles with a lemony cream sauce meant to complement the asparagus and artichokes and coat the noodles perfectly.

chef’s tip

the Menu

HEART TO HEART. you'll need about 14 to 16 baby artichokes • Garlic-Cheese Toasts or about 4 regular artichokes, quartered, for the pasta. • Green Bean Bundles frozen artichokes are a fine stand-in for canned. • Pappardelle With Lemon, Baby Artichokes and Asparagus • Chocolate Cake With Buttercream Frosting

1 12 to 16 oz package pappardelle pasta 4 Tbsp unsalted butter, divided 1 lb fresh asparagus, trimmed and cut diagonally into 2-inch pieces 2 cans baby artichokes, drained 1 tsp minced garlic ½ cup chicken stock juice from 1 lemon 1½ Tbsp lemon zest ¼ tsp thyme leaves, roughly chopped 2 cups heavy cream ¾ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

| preparation | prepare pappardelle according to package directions. drain pasta into a large serving bowl and add 2 tablespoons butter; toss to combine and set aside. in a large sauté pan with a lid over medium heat, melt remaining butter and add asparagus. cover and cook for 3 to 4 minutes to wilt asparagus. remove lid and add baby artichokes; sauté for a couple of minutes and add garlic. continue sautéing until garlic is fragrant. remove contents from pan and set aside. return pan to medium heat. in heated pan, add chicken stock, lemon juice and zest and thyme and bring to a boil; immediately add heavy cream. let cook until liquid is reduced by ¹⁄₃. return cooked asparagus, artichokes and garlic to pan, add parmigiano-reggiano and stir. season with salt and pepper to taste. pour lemon-asparagus-artichoke mixture over cooked pasta and toss to combine. serve immediately.

In this class you’ll learn how to make flavorful green bean bundles, an easy and healthy side dish. You’ll also learn how to make indulgent buttercream frosting from scratch.

get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school at 6pm on Wed., april 25, at the des Peres, Missouri, location to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at nourish.schnucks.com/ schnucks-cooks or call 314.909.1704.


WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Mondays at 9:30pm.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 8am and 6:30pm.

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Saturdays at 10am.

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8)

Check your local listings to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

Feast TV airs Saturdays at 5pm and Sundays at 2:30pm (Channel 8).

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sweet ideas

story and recipe by christy augustin photography by jacklyn meyer

FoolprooF Blitz puFF pastry A mix of bread and cake flours is best to achieve the correct gluten content, although pastry flour is a great alternative; all-purpose flour can be used in a pinch. It’s imperative that the butter and water are cold – and yes, one whole pound of butter is needed! The two sheets of puff pastry that this recipe yields can be used in myriad ways: to top four pot pies, make two Napoleons, 16 turnovers or 36 cheese straws. Use an egg wash on top of turnovers and pot pies to brown. yields | 2 12-by-18-inch sheets |

1¾ 2 1½ 1

cups bread flour cups cake flour tsp kosher salt lb (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cubed into 1-inch pieces 1¼ tsp white or apple cider vinegar 1 to 1¼ cups cold water, divided

| preparation – dough | in a large mixing bowl, combine flours and salt. add cold, cubed butter into dry ingredients by hand, working and smearing until approximately half of butter is mixed in completely, with the rest still in walnut-sized pieces. gently add vinegar and 1 cup water to dough, just enough to moisten flour; add remaining water if any flour is still dry. dough should be very shaggy and not a uniform consistency. Wrap dough in plastic wrap, forming an 8-by-10-inch rectangle; refrigerate 20 minutes.

| preparation – lamination | on a large, floured work surface, roll chilled dough until about 12 inches wide, 18 inches long and ¼ inch thick. dust off excess flour. Fold both short ends into the center and close like a book; this is your first book fold. the rectangle should now be 4½-inches-by-12-inches. rotate dough 180 degrees, flour both sides and roll out to 12-by-18-by-¼ inches. dust off flour and do a second book fold; repeat once more for a total of 3 book folds. if at any point dough is fighting back, give it a brief rest in the refrigerator. after the final fold, dust off excess flour, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes. on a well-floured work surface, roll chilled puff pastry to 18-by-24-inches and ¹⁄₈-inches thick. cut in half, yielding 2 sheets. dough can be refrigerated, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, for up to 2 days, or frozen for a month.

FoolprooF Blitz puFF pastry i freely admit it: this recipe is a bit of a challenge, yet it’s so very worth it. homemade puff pastry, or pâte feuilletée, just can’t be beat. these buttery, flaky layers of dough can be used to make fruit-filled turnovers, caramelized palmiers (tiny elephant ear-like cookies), the crust for chicken pot pies, layers for napoleons, cheese straws and so much more. better yet, the finished dough can be frozen for weeks and used whenever you need it. here, i’m teaching the blitz method of making puff pastry. When making a traditional puff pastry, a big block of butter is rolled and folded between layers of dough. For blitz puff pastry, you cube the butter and work it into the flour mixture, similar to how you make pie dough. this method is faster and virtually foolproof; the trick is laminating the dough, which requires alternating rolling the dough out to a specific size and thickness, and then folding it over itself again and again. puff pastry is made with a book fold, as opposed to the letter fold used to make other laminated doughs, such as croissants or danishes. puff pastry sheets bake best from frozen dough, or at the very least, chilled in the refrigerator. lastly, a hot oven will yield the best bake; 400°F is a good all-purpose temperature. Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.

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IN iN GOOD GOOD

ARUGULA

WITH with

WHY TINY PLANTS DELIVER BIG-TIME BENEFITS WITH DR. ADETUNJI TORIOLA Washington University assistant professor of surgery and researcher at Siteman Cancer Center

Everyone knows how important greens are to good health, but vitamins and nutrients that are sometimes weakened (or even it can be daunting to sit down to Ð let alone get excited about destroyed) by the heating process. Ð a heaping bowl of kale. Microgreens deliver an abundance “Notably, the vitamin and antioxidant contents of of nutrition in a fraction of the volume. microgreens are higher than their mature plant counterparts,” If you’ve ever planted an herb or vegetable garden, technically, Dr. Toriola says. “For instance, cilantro seedlings contain three you’v times more beta-carotene than the fully developed cilantro that push out of the ground, typically picked when they’re leaves. Likewise, cilantro and red cabbage microgreens only a couple inches tall. Microgreens cropped up in San contain 11 and 28 times greater lutein than their mature plant Francisco’s food scene in the 1990s, and some of today’s most counterparts.” Broccoli and red cabbage microgreens are popular varieties include beets, cilantro, radishes, mustard excellent sources of calcium, which helps fortify teeth and greens, arugula and kale. bones; red mustard, pea tendrils and arugula microgreens soups, sandwiches, salads and as garnish, and they taste quite similar to full-grown leafy vegetables. nerves; and red cabbage and radish microgreens bring vitamin Though it seems counterintuitive to pick and eat the roots, seeds and shoots of a plant rather than wait for the leaves to reach maturity, it turns out there are plenty of compelling reasons to consume microgreens. For starters, they’re low maintenance: They require only minimal space to grow, and y’re they’re ready to harv planted. But f The plants are tiny, but the amount nutrients they contain . Adetunji Toriola, a Washington University assistant professor of surgery and researcher at Siteman Cancer Center. One reason is Ð unlike conventional v ed before they’re eaten Ð microgreens are eaten raw. That means they retain all of the

C, great for the skin and blood vessels. Perhaps most impressive is that microgreens are strong . “Our body undergoes changes every day at the cellular level, and we need things to mop up what’s been broken down, such as regenerated cells and free radicals,” explains Dr. Toriola. “Over the long term these things can accumulate, and it becomes a problem for the body. Antioxidants help clean up a lot of these toxins, and microgreens are full of them.” One last reason to celebrate these wee greens: They are sometimes referred to as “vegetable conf ” and what could be a more healthy or festive way to welcome spring than that?

REFRESHING MICROGREENS SALAD WITH A KICK YIELDS |

For the dressing: Tbsp olive oil Tbsp apple cider vinegar Tbsp mayo Tbsp honey habanero pepper, seeded (optional) Nutrition Information: 371 calories, 25g fat, 37g carbohydrate, , 7g protein

If your microgreens have soil on them, give them a light wash, and air dry them in a colander for a few moments. Be careful, they are fragile. Slice pears and avocado. Shred carrots. Make dressing by whisking together all ingredients. You may add or omit the habanero pepper depending upon your preference for heat. Combine salad ingredients and dressing. Top with feta cheese.

When it’s full grown arugula y its er jagged leav a clue to the sharp, spicy or they lend to pasta and salads. As a microgreen, arugula’s emerald leaves are clover shaped. They still convey their trademark spice, but can be grown in just under two w sandwiches, smoothies and salads, and they deliver loads of antioxidants and vitamin C.

CHIA Chia seeds have had quite an evolution. They were a staple for Mayan and Aztec diets; they grew on kitschy clay today they enjoy superfood status. (Fun fact: Chia Pet’s parent company now sells the seeds for their items and for human consumption as nutritional supplements.) erently from others because they’re planted on top of a surface rather than beneath it. Chia microgreens are ex , magnesium and even calcium Ð who knew the Chia Turtle could be so versatile?

PEA Talk about a ray of sunshine. Pea shoot microgreens taste like summer, yet they can be grown quickly and easily all year round. Though tiny, these leaves are nutritional powerhouses, delivering an astonishing seven times the amount of vitamin C as blueberries while also check xes for folic acid, antioxidants and vitamins A and C. These tender leaves enliven food of all kinds. Try them in green smoothies or stir-fries.

RADISH Most microgreens can be harvested about two weeks y’re planted, but radish microgreens are at their peak even sooner than that. Scientists at the University of Maryland studied two dozen kinds of microgreens, and they discovered that green daikon radish had the most vitamin E Ð a crucial antioxidant Ð of any other variety. These peppery seedlings are great additions to soups and salads, but the y’re harvested. Be sure to eat them right away.

VINGS |

For the salad: 1 cup raw microgreens 1 cup greens of your choice (romaine, spinach) 1 cup pears, sliced medium avocado, cut into slices or chunks cup blueberries cup shredded carrots cup walnuts or pecans 2 Tbsp feta cheese

]

MICROGREENS: SMALL BUT MIGHTY

SUNFLOWER usually thought of as food in their own right, they can also Recipe provided by: Amy Glueck, RD, Siteman Cancer Center dietitian

microgreens: Just stick them under an inch of damp soil, and they’ll be ready to eat in about two weeks. These greens impart the characteristic and folic acids, and vitamins C, E and B complex Ð

and

seeds are the best ones for growing. You can use the common striped kind as long as they’re still in the shells, but avoid the ones used in birdseed. Inspired Local Food Culture

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| 64 |

milk & honey

The couple behind Giofre Apiaries in Millersburg, Missouri, is fighting the global honeybee crisis one scoop of ice cream at a time.

| 71 |

cherry on top

The iconic Cherry Mash celebrates 100 sweet years in St. Joseph, Missouri.

| 78 |

hot dates

Make your own date syrup or sugar at home to sweeten everything from cookies and brownies to pizza sauce and salad dressing.

| 82 |

365 days of summer

In just a year, Vicia executive pastry chef Summer Wright has made her mark on the St. Louis dining scene with hyper-seasonal, sometimes left-of-center desserts – to thrilling results. phoTo of ChASe CAndy Co.’S Cherry MASh by ZACh bAUMAn


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p

rinted on the side of a pale yellow pint of elderberry-honey

The couple behind Giofre ApiAries in MillersburG, Missouri, is fiGhTinG The GlobAl honeybee crisis one scoop of ice creAM AT A TiMe.

ice cream, between the nutritional facts and a small cartoon black-and-white honeybee taking flight, is a somewhat sobering quote: “If the bee disappears from the surface of the earth, man would have no more than four years to live.” The quote, most often attributed to Albert einstein, underlies the mission of Giofre Apiaries in Millersburg, Missouri, about 20 minutes outside of Columbia. Here, Nancy and Domenic Giofre produce more than 25 flavors of silky, honey-sweetened ice cream ranging from classic vanilla, chocolate and salted caramel with bacon to banana-walnut, gooseberry and root beer float. The couple focuses on more than just producing sweet treats, though: They’re determined to help educate consumers about the serious environmental issues facing honeybees, one pint at a time.

WRITTeN BY HeATHeR RISke

|

pHoToGRApHY BY keITH BoRGMeYeR

The Giofres started small, keeping two honeybee hives as

barn full of equipment, bringing their numbers up to around

a hobby back in 2009. A longtime gardener, Nancy joined

15 or 20 hives. Then, in 2013, the owners of Walk-About Acres

the Boone Regional Beekeepers Association to pick fellow

in Columbia, who produced honey ice cream for the Missouri

beekeepers’ brains: When should you extract honey from

Beekeepers’ Association booth at the state fair, also retired.

the hive? How often should you open up the hive? When do

Nancy and Domenic decided to take the leap, buying the

certain flowers start blooming? Yet even with that support

business and building a small ice cream-making facility on their

system, there was still a learning curve. During the couple’s first

property the following spring. By that August, Giofre Apiaries

honey harvest that summer, Nancy pulled a small red wagon

was up and running at the Missouri State Fair. Soon after,

behind her to haul the hives around the field. While stopping to

Nancy, a former electrician, switched to beekeeping full-time.

collect honey, she placed a super (which holds the frames that collect honeycombs) on the wagon. The super went down fast,

“And away we went,” she says.

the frames came up and bees went everywhere. “It was just a big ol’ mess,” Nancy remembers with a laugh. “We’ve had our

The couple now manages about 75 hives spread across their

share of stings.”

property, as well as on neighboring lots. “You can’t overpopulate a yard or [the bees] will starve,” Nancy explains. “A bee will travel

Two years later, a fellow beekeeper from the Boone Regional

up to 2 miles in their radius to find food. We just want to make

club retired and gave the Giofres several more hives and a

sure they’re in a good habitat.”

PICTURED LEFT: one of the Giofres' hives; the aluminum roof

covers the white honey super and pink brood box.

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In the spring, bee colonies build up inside each hive's brood box. Honey is harvested in the summer, and the fall months are spent preparing the bees for winter. On an average summer day, Nancy heads out to the bee yards in the morning to collect supers of honeycomb. She then returns to the honey room, located next door to the ice cream production facility, to unload the supers and stage them for honey extraction the following day. Once all the supers are in the shop, Nancy checks their moisture content. If the moisture is too high, she’ll leave them in the shop (which is relatively dry) and wait for the moisture to reduce. Otherwise, honey is extracted from the frames inside the super the next day. Depending on the time of year – if flowers are still blooming, for instance – empty supers are returned to the hives to give the bees a jump-start to collect more honey. To keep things moving in a timely manner, the process usually involves around three to four people. The Giofres don’t produce enough honey for large-scale distribution. Rather, they’re best known for their honey ice cream – they even refer to themselves as “The Honey Ice Cream People.” Demand has grown so quickly that in April 2017, they doubled the size of their ice-cream facility. Now, Giofre produces around 200 gallons of ice cream a week.

When first developing their ice cream, Nancy and Domenic opted to make theirs with a higher milk-fat content than average ice creams. The ice creams contain 10 percent milk fat (the same amount used in gelato), which gives the product a silky, smooth texture. And, perhaps most importantly, each pint contains four tablespoons of honey. The Giofres don’t rely on an ice-cream base loaded with corn syrup and stabilizers; aside from the sugar in their packaged ice-cream mix, honey is the only added sweetener. “It tastes [like] the real thing,” Nancy says. “We feel [the honey] gives the ice cream a smooth, creamy texture, along with a delightful flavor for folks who enjoy honey.” Top-sellers are chocolate, vanilla and salted caramel, and Giofre also produces seasonal flavors including blackberry, lemon, pumpkin, eggnog and peppermint. Local products are incorporated whenever possible, including black walnuts and Missouri pecans from Hammons Products Co. in Stockton and elderberries from River Hills Harvest in Hartsburg. A collaboration with Broadway Brewery in Columbia led to an imperial stout flavor this winter. Giofre also produces honey-infused strawberry and chocolate sorbets. The ice creams were first sold just down the street at Short Stop, a small convenience market connected to a Conoco gas station. The Giofres started with one ice-cream cooler, but it didn’t take long before they needed to bring in a second. “It was just amazing how quickly it became popular,” says Short Stop co-owner Shelly Bedworth. “It’s pretty unique – the need to have two ice-cream coolers at a convenience store in a rural area.”

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Giofre now commands its own display in the center of Short Stop, near the registers. In addition to two bright blue coolers packed with pints of mint-chocolate chip, cinnamon-chestnut, peach and more, the company keeps two shelves stocked with raw honey (including lavender and cinnamon flavors), honey sticks and Nancy’s bee bread, made with bee pollen fermented in raw honey. Bedworth says the ice cream is an easy sell; if she tells a customer that it’s a local product with honey in it, most people will buy a pint or two to try. It’s common for customers to drive in from out of town to get their hands on the treat: One woman from Jefferson City makes the 40-minute drive frequently to stock up. Recently, two couples passing through Millersburg in an RV bought a bag full of pints to take home. And the Giofres have expanded their product well beyond Short Stop. The honey ice creams are now available at Hy-Vee, Lucky’s Market and Moser’s Market locations across the state, in addition to Local Harvest Grocery in St. Louis; Green Earth Grocery in Edwardsville, Illinois; Ruby’s Market in Springfield, Missouri; and Farm to You Market in Washington, Missouri. This spring, Giofre Apiaries products will also be more widely available in the Kansas City market; next, the Giofres are eyeing distribution in southern Missouri.

“It tastes [lIke] the real thIng,” nancy says. “We feel [the honey] gIves the Ice cream a smooth, creamy texture, along WIth a delIghtful flavor for folks Who enjoy honey.” -

nancy giofre

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Although Bedworth was Giofre’s first retailer, it was fifth-generation farmer Todd Geisert who helped Nancy and Domenic expand visibility of their product across the state. In addition to selling Geisert Farms brats, pork burgers and baby-back ribs at his Farm to You Market, Geisert features products from a range of other small, local producers. In fact, when comparing sales of the Giofres’ ice cream (including the salted caramel-bacon, which features Geisert’s bacon) to a well-known St. Louis custard he also stocks, he sells about 20 to 1. “Once people try it, it’s an easy sell,” Geisert says. “It’s a little creamier than other ice creams. I tell people it’s like the old-school ice cream they’re used to – but better.”

Donning matching tie-dye Giofre T-shirts, Nancy and Domenic frequently visit stores across the region to let customers sample the ice creams while they educate them about the environmental issues facing bees. In addition to the Einstein quote, facts are printed on their pints of ice cream – noting, for instance, that it would take about one ounce of honey to fuel a bee’s flight around the world. On these visits, the Giofres also hand out flyers that explain what’s happening to honeybees.

And what’s happening is serious: Over the past decade, bees have been disappearing at an alarming rate worldwide. Between 2007 and 2013, more than 10 million beehives were lost due to colony collapse disorder (CCD). When a colony collapses, the majority of its worker bees inexplicably disappear, leaving behind the queen and plenty of food. The phenomenon often leaves beekeepers scratching their heads – as Domenic says, “It’s basically when a hive is gone and nobody knows why.” This, of course, has devastating agricultural and economic effects, as honeybees are responsible for pollinating 70 of the 100 crops that provide 90 percent of the world’s food. Another way of looking at it: Bees pollinate one in every three bites of food that humans eat, including everything from apples, berries and grapes to lima beans, onions and cashews.

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No one single reason has been proven to cause CCD; a 2015 review attributed the occurrence to a combination of factors, including parasites, pesticides and diet. The most recent U.S. Department of Agriculture report on honeybee health, released in August 2017, found that the number of hives lost to CCD was down 27 percent from the prior year, yet a majority of beekeepers still reported losses due to pesticides, mites and other issues. In Millersburg, Nancy and Domenic say they can’t tell for sure if they’ve experienced CCD, but they’ve lost a number of hives to varroa mites and hive beetles in particular. Luckily, there are ways consumers can help combat these causes, including planting wildflowers like lavender, poppies and daisies to provide bees with more food. “We try to educate the public about those issues when we have the opportunity,” Nancy says. “Let a flower grow; be careful what you put on your lawn. Not all chemicals are safe for animals – or us.” Above all, Nancy says she’d like people to become educated about sustainable landscaping practices that incorporate more wildflowers, clover and native plants. In the future, in addition to teaching consumers about easy ways to help protect the bees, she hopes to be able to put a portion of Giofre’s sales toward honeybee research. After all, she says, the bees are the backbone of their business – and the Giofres won’t ever forget it. “Nancy and Domenic are both hard workers, and they like to be good stewards of the bees themselves,” Bedsworth says. “They didn’t get into this just to make money – they really do genuinely care about the bees and the environment.” thehoneyicecreampeople.com

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the Iconic Cherry Mash celebrates 100 sweet years in St. Joseph, Missouri written by Nancy Stiles photography by zach bauman

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PICTURED LEFT: Cherry Mash

packaging has barely changed over the years; Cherry Mash candies. PICTURED OPPOSITE PAGE: Peanut brittle; coconut bonbons and spreading peanut brittle.

n April 27, 1942, F. Stuart Yantis knew he had a problem. That was the day the U.S. halted all sugar sales ahead of distributing sugar rations. Over the next two days, candymakers, bakeries and ice-cream companies across the country received the first ration books at local high schools, followed next by consumers. War Ration Book One held 28 stamps good for a half-pound of sugar per week for a year – about half of Americans’ normal consumption. As owner of Pepsi-Cola bottling operations in Kansas City; Des Moines, Iowa; and Louisville, Kentucky; plus a piece of the main plant in Chicago, Yantis was in desperate need of sugar rations – and a solution to get even more of them. “If you could get sugar, you could make a lot of money,” says his nephew, Barry Yantis. “The soldiers and people who were building tanks, airplanes, bombs and ammunition – they enjoyed Pepsi and Coke. And where do you get sugar rations? Buy a candy company.” So that’s exactly what F. S. Yantis & Co. did. In 1944, the investment firm bought the Chase Candy Co., based in St. Joseph, Missouri, which was famous for its boxes of assorted chocolates. The candy most likely suffered until the end of the war, Barry admits with a laugh, since the company trimmed its offerings and reformulated candy recipes to use less sugar for a few years. After the war, Yantis sold his bottling operations and focused on candymaking; Chase’s flagship was the Cherry Mash, a double-dipped chocolate confection filled with fondant and crushed cherries. This year, the company celebrates 100 years of the iconic Midwestern treat. “My father sold Sam Walton the first candy he ever bought,” Barry says, referring to the founder of Walmart. “It was before it was Walmart, when he still had his Ben Franklin stores in northern Arkansas.” It takes about 20 employees to put out 36,000 Cherry Mash confections per day, although workers no longer form the treats with ice-cream scoops. Barry first joined the family business in 1974, working with his father, William Yantis, who ran Chase Candy Co. for his brother, F. Stuart Yantis.

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Today, Barry is the company’s president and chief executive officer, yet he still vividly recalls moving from Minneapolis to St. Joseph to, as he describes it, be a “chocolate boy.” His father called and said he needed help. “I was selling suits at Sears on Friday, and spreading peanut brittle with a bunch of candymakers on Monday,” he recalls. “It was a real culture shock.” As the “chocolate boy,” Barry got his start at Chase adding peanuts to the chocolate for Cherry Mash. “The chocolate boy had to get the exact amount of peanuts into the chocolate, so that it stood up properly when the ladies dropped it on the belt,” Barry says. “And if the chocolate boy made a mistake? [General manager] L.C. Starling would tell you in no uncertain terms: ‘More damn peanuts!’ Or, ‘It’s too thick, you’ve gotta put more chocolate in it!’ I had to make sure the peanuts were right, make sure the chocolate was the right temperature – because if it was too hot, there wouldn’t be any body to it; it would just be a big blob on the belt. So I learned quick.” To make Cherry Mash, six or seven women used to hand-dip the bright pink, cherry-fondant centers into melted chocolate, and then dip them again before plopping the Cherry Mash on the conveyor belt. They were paid for piecework, so the faster they worked, the more Cherry Mash they made – and the more they got paid. Today, Cherry Mash – the third-oldest continuously made candy bar in the country – is made with a candy extruder and a chocolate enrober, both of which are nearly 40 years old. The ingredients have remained virtually unchanged since 1918, when Chase Candy Co. first debuted the treat. Barry says that’s the one thing his father made him promise: Don’t change anything about Cherry Mash. “And we haven’t – other than the process. No more chocolate boys,” he chuckles.


Dr. George Washington Chase arrived in St. Joseph in 1872, when he was 34. The Vermont native planned to make a living as a doctor in the frontier town, which had been bustling for years thanks to its role as a jumping-off point for the Oregon Trail and the California Gold Rush. When that didn’t work out, he turned to the wholesale produce business, which evolved into G.W. Chase & Son Mercantile Co. in 1876. Chase’s son, Ernest, was the driving force behind the candy business; Barry says he even traveled from St. Joseph to New York City and hired several candymakers to come back and work for Chase. When Cherry Mash was first introduced in 1918, it was just one of dozens of Chase products, including black walnut taffy, Crispy Cluster, Pecan Patties, Chocolate Peanut Bunch and Kokoanut Krisp. In 1922, the company was renamed Chase Candy Co., and G.W. and Ernest built a four-story brick facility in downtown St. Joseph (which still stands today and houses an antique mall) and was touted back then as the most modern candy factory in the country. Two years later, Chase introduced the Z-bar, a milk chocolate bar with nougat, roasted almonds and malted milk. “For 50 years, the Chase Candy Company, St. Joseph, Missouri, has been among the leaders of candy makers,” boasted an ad in the Daily Democrat Forum and Maryville Tribune in Maryville, Missouri. “Now they have produced a superior confection – the famous Z-bar. This manufacturer is making over 500 kinds of candy and they have selected the Z-bar as the peer of them all.” Ernest’s son, Charles, sold Chase Candy Co. to F. S. Yantis in 1944 for more than $1 million (around $14 million today). Over the next few years, the Chase Candy Co. bought up other regional candy companies to expand its footprint, including St. Louis-based National Candy Co., which was founded by the father of actor Vincent Price and had 22 plants nationwide, and Chicago’s Bunte Bros. Candy, which Chase acquired in 1954. Bunte Bros. was famous for possibly being the first company to mass-produce candy canes, and it debuted the first chocolate-covered candy bar in 1914. Inspired Local Food Culture

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PICTURED LEFT TO RIGHT:

Bright pink fondant is packed into the extruder that pushes out Cherry Mash's candy center; chocolate is then mixed with hand-roasted peanuts; finally, the cherry centers are enrobed twice with peanuts and chocolate.

"We’ve been here since 1876. It’s the middle of our Cherry Mash territory; our biggest customers are in this part of the world.” -barry yantis

Production moved to Chicago for a few years after Chase bought Bunte Bros., but returned to St. Joseph full time in the late 1960s. “It’s our home, and we’ve been here since 1876,” Barry says. “[Even when] production was in Chicago, we had a huge warehouse [here]. All our candy in those days shipped from St. Joe. It’s the middle of our Cherry Mash territory; our biggest customers are in this part of the world.” When Barry started at Chase as a chocolate boy in 1974, the company was in the midst of its midcentury boom, making jawbreakers, jelly candies, peanut brittle, peppermint discs, dipped chocolates, candy bars and more. Chase even workshopped a few different flavors of Cherry Mash with coconut, vanilla and chocolate centers. Barry says they tasted great, but the company didn’t have the advertising budget to effectively introduce new products to consumers. Despite that, Hobby Lobby took Cherry Mash national a few years ago (although it’s not available in every store), and Chase sells to distributors from southern Illinois to parts of Utah, up to Minnesota and down to Texas, as well as Walmart, Hy-Vee, Price Chopper and more in the Kansas City area. Chase candy is available online, too, and Barry says Facebook has been particularly helpful in getting the word out – as well as a great place for loyal fans to share their cherished Cherry Mash memories. “I kid you not, Cherry Mash is seriously amazing! It DID NOT FAIL,” wrote one fan on Facebook. “It's so olde-tyme [sic] and perfect, an intense cherry [flavor] with [a] finish of chocolate and peanuts. Rock, rock, rock.” Barry says some of the posts really blow him away. “A lot of them have stories, like, ‘It was my mom’s favorite candy bar, and when I go to visit her grave, I always leave a Cherry Mash – we had one like that six weeks ago,” he says, astonished.

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When you arrive in the small lobby of Chase Candy Co., situated in a St. Joseph industrial park, you’re immediately hit with the overpowering aromas of cherry and chocolate. The scents are slightly deceiving, though: You’re still several doors (and sanitary steps) away from the mammoth warehouse where the candy is made. Cherry Mash production begins around 6am, with just sugar, corn syrup and water. The three ingredients are heated in large copper pots to make fondant, which is then dripped through a cylinder with a cold-water jacket into an auger, which cools and whips the fondant at the same time until it looks like cake frosting. “Russell Stover probably makes more fondant in a day than we’ve made in 100 years,” Barry says. Near the copper pots, a large bread-dough mixer combines crushed cherries (Chase goes through 15 tons of cherries a year), Wild Cherry flavoring and red food coloring with the fondant. Next, the sweet, bright-pink mixture goes into the candy extruder, which rolls it and pushes it through molds into rows of 12 Cherry Mash centers. They then move slowly down a conveyor belt into the chocolate enrober, which looks like a chocolate waterfall. The chocolate itself is melted in a separate, very warm room and combined with hand-roasted, crushed peanuts. Chase gets raw, whole peanuts in 2,000-pound bags, and roasts 300 pounds at a time at 350ºF. Once they’ve cooled, the peanuts are poured into a grinder that the company has used since at least 1916. The peanuts and chocolate are then combined and poured over the cherry centers on a wire rack and left to cool; any mixture that doesn’t stick is recycled for later use. Candies then go through the chocolate enrober a second time to ensure the right amount of coating and size, topping out at about 2.05 ounces each. When they emerge from the enrober for the final time, they resemble a Star Crunch, a mound of peanut bits covered in chocolate.

The most modern piece of equipment at Chase is the wrapper, which is digital, and can wrap and seal 200 Cherry Mash candies per minute, or 300 Mini Mash – Cherry Mash's 1-ounce sibling – per minute. Safety improvements are about the only thing that’s changed at Chase Candy Co. over the years: The Food and Drug Administration (FDA), for example, requires food manufactures to run everything through metal detectors, which happens at Chase after everything is wrapped. Chase also used to use Red No. 2 food coloring for the cherry centers, but a while back it had to switch to Red No. 3 due to FDA regulations. Although Chase once had production facilities across the country, employees only churned out 50 to 60 Cherry Mash per minute in the ice-cream scoop days. Chase has since consolidated its operations in St. Joseph, and is now making more than ever before. In addition to Cherry Mash and Mini Mash, Chase offers a few seasonal candies: peanut brittle, peanut clusters, peanut squares, peco flake (like peanut brittle but with coconut flakes instead of peanuts), vanilla haystacks and coconut bonbons – all made by hand. The peanut brittle, for example, is heated in those same copper pots before being poured onto long, marble cooling slabs with cold water running underneath. The brittle is then carefully spread with spatulas. Once the brittle has cooled, it’s cut into pieces using rolling knives and then packaged by hand. The coconut bonbons are hand-dipped, giving them a signature “squiggle” on top that you won’t find with machine-made bonbons. “It makes the best candy,” Barry says of Chase’s handmade process. “There are machines you could buy to make peanut brittle, but I don’t know of a machine you could buy to make peco flake. [Handmade] looks better, and it tastes better. That’s [what] we want – to make the best Cherry Mash ever, and keep all our loyal Cherry Mash customers. We’re very proud to still be here.” cherrymash.com


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The Inns at St. Albans The Inns at St. Albans offers culinary classes taught by award-winning cooks, bakers, food professionals and best-selling authors. The weekend cooking events are immersive experiences, each custom designed to give students the opportunity to master new skills, explore new culinary traditions and discover local producers and artisans. Weekend camps and classes include a mix of hands-on cooking, demonstrations, excursions, talks and tastings. A Tour of Italy’s Abruzzo Region April 13 – 15

Join Domencia Marchetti for a virtual tour of Italy and regional Italian food. As the author of seven acclaimed books on Italian home cooking, Domenica brings authentic Italian recipes into the kitchen at the Inns and to share it with you.

Mastering the Art of Fish Cooking

April 20 - 22

Maine food writer and cookbook author Christine Burns Rudalevige will deliver a weekend of seafood cooking. Participants will learn about all types of fish (white flaky fish, meatier fish steaks, skin-on fillets, whole fish and shellfish) and prepare them for both weeknight meals and special occasion dinners.

Cooking with the Seasons

July 20 – 22

Sheri Castle is famous for her brilliant recipes and smart tips and hints, especially when it comes to garden-fresh produce. During the weekend, Sheri will lead hands-on classes that encourage participants to rethink each component of the meal – from appetizers through dessert –and will showcase something fresh and fabulous.

Sweeter off the Vine

August 17 – 19

Join Yossy Arefi for a weekend celebrating the versatility of season fruits. Yossy will teach you how to enhance the sweetness of seasonal fruits, combine uncommon flavors and create beautiful, luscious desserts no matter your baking skill level!

Unleash Your Pie Super Power

November 16 - 17

Cathy Barrow leads this three-day Culinary Camp. With Thanksgiving right around the corner, you’ll make a variety of crusts with fillings to match. From sweet and savory pies, breakfast, lunch and dinner pies, pies for appetizers and pies to eat, you’ll bake with all with crusts that are rolled out as well as pressed in.

Book a cooking camp with accommodations for the weekend | Visit www.innsatstalbans.com | 636.458.0131 The Inns at St. Albans | 3519 St. Albans Rd, St. Albans, MO 63073 | info@innsatstalbans.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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written by rose Hansen

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pHotograpHy by julia calleo


Make your own date syrup or sugar at hoMe to sweeten everything froM cookies and brownies to pizza sauce and salad dressing. b

Perhaps no Midwesterner knows the potential of a good date better than Colleen Sundlie, owner of The Date Lady in Springfield, Missouri. While living in the United Arab Emirates in 2005, Sundlie started swapping out honey for date syrup, which she personally found to deepen the flavor of foods. After returning to the U.S. in 2008 – her suitcases stuffed with jars of date syrup – she decided to launch The Date Lady in 2012. After countless rounds of R&D, she introduced her date syrup, followed by date sugar, positioning both as naturally sweet alternatives to honey, sugar, molasses and maple syrup. In 2017, Sundlie’s date syrup won the Specialty Food Association's Sofi award in the dessert sauce, topping and syrup category, and she was again a finalist last May (winners will be announced this month). The products are also sold in grocery stores and specialty food shops across the U.S. If you’re like Sundlie and want to try your hand at making date sugar and syrup at home, both are a snap. Whether you make or buy the sugar or syrup, once in hand, they can both be used in a 1:1 ratio as a sugar substitute. Try date sugar or syrup in your favorite sweet or savory recipes, from cookies and brownies to pizza sauce and salad dressing.

date syrup Sundlie recommends using Deglet Nour dates, which have a flavor similar to butterscotch; Medjool dates will yield a deeper molasses flavor. Look for both date varieties at your local specialty market or online. RECIPE CoURTESy CoLLEEn SUnDLIE, oWnER, ThE DATE LADy yIELDS | 8 ounces |

3 1

cups water lb fresh dates

| preparation | In a large sauté pan over high heat, bring water and dates to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for about 20 minutes; occasionally press on dates to release juice. Remove from heat and strain mixture through a sheet of cheesecloth. Let cool. once cool to the touch, squeeze mixture until you’ve yielded about 2½ cups of liquid. In a saucepan over high heat, add date liquid and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low. Allow liquid to reduce until a syrup consistency forms, about 40 minutes. Will keep up to 6 weeks in refrigerator.

date sugar

Sundlie suggests using Deglet Nour dates, as they are a naturally drier variety than Medjool. RECIPE CoURTESy CoLLEEn SUnDLIE, oWnER, ThE DATE LADy yIELDS | 1½ cups |

1

lb fresh dates, pitted

| preparation | Preheat oven to 225°F.

colleen sundlie, owner of The Date Lady in Springfield, Missouri

on a rimmed baking sheet, lay pitted dates in a single layer and bake for 3 hours and 15 minutes. once cool, if any dates feel moist to the touch, continuing baking until fully dry. In the bowl of a food processor, pulse dates until smooth. Date sugar will keep up to 2 months if stored in an airtight container at room temperature. Inspired Local Food Culture

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Date-MiSo SalaD DreSSing Sundlie says this miso dressing strikes the perfect balance between fruity and tangy. The recipe was inspired by one that appears in unprocessed by Chef AJ and Glen Merzer. Recipe couRtesy colleen sundlie, owneR, the date lady yields | 1¼ cups |

¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ 2 2

cup water cup fresh lemon juice cup yellow miso cup date syrup Tbsp olive oil Tbsp Dijon mustard

| preparation | in the bowl of a food processor or blender, add all ingredients and emulsify until smooth. transfer to a Mason jar; will keep up to 2 weeks stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. shake well before serving.

Try this sauce on a pizza with hio salami, radicc pulled pork or and whole-milk mozzarella.

Pizza Sauce This reduction offers a flavor similar to barbecue sauce. It's a favorite at Millsap Farms' pizza nights in Springfield, Missouri. Recipe couRtesy colleen sundlie, owneR, the date lady yields | 1½ cups |

2 shallots, minced splash olive oil pinch red pepper flakes freshly ground black pepper, to taste ¹⁄₃ cup date syrup ¹⁄₃ cup water salt, to taste

| preparation | in a sauté pan over medium-low heat, heat olive oil and add shallots, red pepper flakes and pepper; sauté for 2 minutes. add date syrup and water and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. once boiling, immediately reduce heat to low and stir for 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat; sauce will continue to thicken as it cools. add salt and pepper to taste. will keep up to 3 weeks stored in refrigerator.

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Pecan-FudGe Brownies Adding half of the pecans to your batter helps distribute them more evenly; the other half are added after the initial bake for presentation. Sundlie recommends gluten-free flour for this recipe, but says all-purpose flour will likely work as well. Recipe couRtesy MeRedith FRazieR, pRoduction assistant, the date lady seRves | 9 |

1½ ¾ 3 ¾ ¾ 4 ¾ 1½ 1 2

nonstick cooking oil spray cups date sugar cup plus 3 Tbsp cocoa powder Tbsp gluten-free flour tsp salt tsp baking powder extra-large eggs cup plus 1 Tbsp date syrup Tbsp vanilla extract cup melted unsalted butter cups chopped pecans, divided

cinnamon-chile cashews Recipe couRtesy colleen sundlie, owneR, the date lady seRves | 8 |

2 1 ½ ¼ 3 1 1

cups raw, unsalted cashews tsp sea salt tsp chile powder tsp ground cinnamon Tbsp date syrup Tbsp water tsp coconut oil

| preparation | preheat oven to 350°F. place cashews on a large baking sheet and toast in oven for 10 minutes. in a small bowl, combine salt, chile powder and cinnamon. set aside. in a large mixing bowl, combine date syrup, water and coconut oil. add toasted cashews and stir to coat. Return cashews to baking sheet and sprinkle with prepared spice mixture. Roast 3 to 4 minutes more. cool completely before serving. will keep up to 2 weeks stored in an airtight container.

| preparation | preheat oven to 350°F. spray a 9-by-9-inch stainless steel baking pan with nonstick cooking oil spray. in a large mixing bowl, combine all dry ingredients. in a separate large mixing bowl, whisk eggs, and then add date syrup and vanilla; mix thoroughly. whisk in melted butter. add dry ingredients to wet, plus 1 cup pecan pieces, and mix thoroughly. Bake for 10 minutes; quickly remove from oven and sprinkle remaining pecan pieces on top, pressing into tops of brownies lightly. Return to oven and bake for an additional 13 to 15 minutes. allow to cool slightly before cutting into 9 equal squares; serve.

Granola This crispy granola gets its gentle sweetness from date syrup and date sugar. Recipe couRtesy colleen sundlie, owneR, the date lady seRves | 3 |

2 ²⁄₃ ²⁄₃ ¹⁄₃ ¼ 3 2 1½ 1½ 2 3 ¼ ¹⁄₃

cups rolled oats cup whole almonds cup unsweetened shredded coconut cup date syrup cup date sugar Tbsp coconut oil Tbsp chia seeds Tbsp raw sunflower seeds Tbsp flax meal tsp ground cinnamon Tbsp goji berries cup dried apricot, chopped cup dates, pitted and chopped

| preparation | preheat oven to 275°F. line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. in a large mixing bowl, combine all ingredients except goji berries, dried apricot and dates and mix using a spatula. spread granola evenly over prepared baking sheet. Bake 20 to 30 minutes, or until a light golden brown. once cool, add remaining ingredients and toss to combine. will keep up to 2 weeks stored in an airtight container.

ONLINE EXTRA Visit feastmagazine.com for a bonus date-syrup recipe: no-bake cookie dough balls.

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Summer

3 6 5 D AY S O F

T

In just a year, Vicia executive pastry chef Summer Wright has made her mark on the St. Louis dining scene with hyper-seasonal, sometimes left-of-center desserts – to thrilling results. WRITTEN BY lIz MIllER

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pHOTOGRApHY BY JENNIFER SIlVERBERG

he first – and maybe the most important – thing you should know about Summer Wright is that she’s fearless in the kitchen.

Case in point: Adding parsnips and caramelized onions to an otherwise traditional caramel sauce is a bold move, much less including said onion-parsnip caramel sauce on the opening dessert menu of the year’s most-anticipated restaurant. That’s exactly what Wright, Vicia’s skilled executive pastry chef, did last March when she paired hazelnut financiers with an onion caramel sauce and sunchoke ice cream. “It was white onions cooked down slowly – think about French onion soup, where you cook onions down for a really long time,” Wright says. “You’re taking that base, and then making kind of a darkish caramel, and combining the two. It’s sweet and savory.” The dessert was certainly in line with the restaurant’s vision to serve food that’s a celebration of local farms and the seasons, as set by owners Michael and Tara Gallina. But would diners dare to try a dessert with onion caramel sauce? Wright knew it was a risk, so she included a more classic chocolate-soufflé tart on the menu as well, just in case. “I was terrified about whether or not it would fly,” Wright recalls. “It’s a scary feeling. One of my biggest challenges in the beginning was, what’s going to work? How far can you push it? Are people going to be uncomfortable? Do I play it a little safe when we’re first opening? How vulnerable can we make this?” As executive chef, Michael assured Wright that if the dish wasn’t an instant hit, they could simply send it out gratis – even picky eaters rarely complain about free food. “But we never had to do that,” he says with a smile. “We had this vision of utilizing vegetables and celebrating what comes from the farmers every day, and I’ve been really inspired by her ability to take that approach on the pastry side.”

Few restaurants gain as much acclaim in their first 12 months as Vicia; it was named to Bon Appétit’s 2017 Top 50 Best New Restaurants in the country, featured as a top new restaurant of the year by Esquire and appeared on Eater’s national 12 best new restaurants list. In February, the James Beard Foundation nominated Vicia as a semifinalist for Best New Restaurant alongside only 27 others nationwide. St. Louis Post-Dispatch restaurant critic Ian Froeb gave Vicia an initial three-and-a-half-star review before returning after the introduction of its chef’s tasting menu. His subsequent four-star review praised Wright’s “dazzling talent” and desserts, including cantaloupe sorbet with peach-pit semifreddo, herbs and flowers, and grilled peaches with blueberries, elderflower cream and a pistachio crumb. Dishes at Vicia often include ingredients such as peach pits (menu mainstays include vegetable-top pesto and purple-top turnip tacos), which reflects another element of the restaurant’s mission: using as much of every ingredient as possible to reduce food waste and push creative boundaries. This philosophy was ingrained in the Gallinas during their time at Dan Barber’s acclaimed Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Tarrytown, New York, where Michael served as chef de cuisine and Tara as service captain. Barber has built a career on moving “beyond farm to table,” championing vegetable-forward cooking and eliminating food waste “for the sake of our food, our health and the future of the land.” Wright had a similar awakening working for Michael Turner, chef-owner of The Classic Cup Cafe in Kansas City, in 2002. “He’s very much an Alice Waters fan, which, osmosis – I became an Alice Waters fan,” Wright says of the pioneering California chef. “We had more than 40 different purveyors who would come into that restaurant; we’d have these giant bags of beautiful greens that you just didn’t see at that point [in time]. He was huge on organic. He was way ahead of the curve.”

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Wright went on to work for famed chefs including Daniel Boulud at DB Bistro Moderne in New York City; Gerard Craft at the now-shuttered Niche in its original St. Louis location; and Charlie Hallowell at Pizzaiolo in Oakland, California. It was at Niche that she first met chef Matthew Daughaday, who she would work with again at Reeds American Table in Maplewood, Missouri. When Reeds opened in September 2015, it emphasized the focus on Wright’s work just as greatly as Daughaday’s; far from an afterthought or even a complement, her desserts demanded your attention. This wasn’t just a collection of sweets below the list of entrées – it was a pastry program. “I think restaurants that have dedicated pastry programs are making a giant investment," Wright says. "Margins are slim, labor is high – so it’s always a moment of gratitude when someone is able to build that for you." By pure coincidence, a month after Reeds opened, the Gallinas announced their return to Michael’s native

Crispy vacherin (meringue) shards, carrot and passionfruit caramel sauce, carrot sorbet, whey sorbet and carrot powder.

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St. Louis. The Gallinas spent 2016 and early 2017 hosting pop-up events in St. Louis and Kansas City, introducing themselves to farmers and chefs and getting a sense for the dining scene as they slowly developed Vicia. By chance, one of Michael’s former cooks at Blue Hill, Alec Schingel, found himself back in St. Louis at the same time. When Vicia was close to opening, Schingel recommended Wright, a friend from their shared time at Niche, for the executive pastry chef job. The Gallinas were looking for someone to lead a true pastry program, and with a shared appreciation for creative seasonal cooking, it seemed an ideal fit. “Farm-to-table has been a conversation happening in this city for a long time, but [Michael and Tara] are doing it in a different way,” Wright says. “We talk about no waste and reusing things all the time [at Vicia]; I think people have always been doing that because you don’t want waste. But here there’s a different train of thought and a next level to how to utilize it in interesting ways that you just don’t see often, while still maintaining delicious flavor, color and life.”


Sunchoke Rice Pudding Brown rice pudding, sunchoke anglaise,

apple-Muscadet sorbet, crispy sunchoke and hōjicha tea syrup.

Summer W right For the Gallinas, it was essential to find a pastry chef who was passionate about their approach; what they truly needed was someone who could apply that vision to their pastry program in creative and thoughtful ways. After all, as Tara says, “The end of the meal is just as important as the beginning.” Although pastry has become Wright’s focus in recent years, she began her career with a passion for savory cooking. She recalls working the garde manger, or cold prep, station at Niche for a year and a half before being the opening pastry chef at Brasserie, Craft’s French-inspired bistro. Later, she was asked to lead the pastry program at Niche, where the restaurant’s seasonal focus led her to develop colorful carrot panna cottas and beet cakes – precursors to the work she’s now doing at Vicia. Part of her ability to see the dessert potential in any ingredient, whether fresh berries or beets, comes from her broad cooking experience. “If you know the savory and the sweet, and how those things can come together, everything makes more sense,” Wright says. “You open yourself up to trying things that are maybe traditionally pastry into the savory side, and vice versa.”

The root of Wright’s pastry program at Vicia – and in fact the restaurant’s overarching goal – is a connection to Midwest farmland and the desire to share the bounty that springs from it. Tara estimates that Vicia sources about 80 percent of its product from local farmers and purveyors, including EarthDance in Ferguson, Missouri; Bohlen Family Farms in Perryville; and Winslow’s Farm in Augusta, which primarily supplies its sister business, Winslow’s Home, a restaurant and specialty food shop, in University City, Missouri.

These days, it’s more common than not to hear chefs rave about local farmers – a sign of how far the slow-food movement has come in America, thanks to revolutionary chefs like Alice Waters, Michael Pollan and Dan Barber. What we don’t expect to hear is how these farmers are shaping the food we eat; that creative territory is usually reserved for chefs. Perhaps that’s one reason why Wright’s relationship with Anne Lehman of Dirty Girl Farms is so special. Lehman is well known in the St. Louis restaurant community for growing unique herbs such as pineapple sage, Cuban oregano, tulsi basil and sweet mace, and Wright sources as much as possible from Lehman. “Anne is my secret weapon, not only in what she produces but her knowledge of it,” Wright says. “There’s nobody I’ve ever met who has such a thorough knowledge of what she’s doing and growing. She’s got some wild books – stuff I’ve never seen in my life before – and she’ll send me these really wonderful resources she’s found online, and it’s like falling down a rabbit hole.” Lehman is also close to Wright in another way: Her 30-by-100-foot farm is in the backyard of her Tower Grove South home, less than 15 minutes from Vicia. This allows her to visit the restaurant often and taste what Wright is doing with her herbs. “It’s a different relationship than I’ve had with any other chef,” Lehman says. “A lot of my sales are, a chef will say ‘Bring me x dollars of herbs a week,’ and that’s great for me on the one hand, for business. On the other hand, it’s kind of soulless sometimes. I read a little obsessively about herb use in other parts of the world and try things myself. Part of that influences what I might tell [Wright]. If she asks what she might be able to do with peaches, I’ll say, ‘Well, you’re not going to believe this, but winter savory is phenomenal with peaches.’ Most people only think about winter savory with meat.” Lehman grows produce for personal use at home, but her commercial products are primarily herbs, edible flowers and foraged plants sold to local chefs. She also runs Audhumbla, a small-batch ice-cream company with her husband, Derrick Crass, Inspired Local Food Culture

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Anne Lehman producing flavors such as ghost pepper, fig leaf and Thai basil. Some of the goods Lehman grows are rarely used in the Midwest or even the U.S., such as fig leaves, Moujean tea and hop shoots, while others, like bison grass, lamb’s quarters and yarrow, can be found by carefully foraging in area fields and forests. Lehman shared some of the bison grass with Wright last spring and summer. “Bison grass is a sweet grass; it grows throughout the plains in the Midwest,” Wright says. “Anne just went out and found it. You wouldn’t look at it twice; you’d just walk past it and have no idea. It grows quite tall and has these really beautiful vanilla, almond-y notes.” Wright used the bison grass in three ways: In a custard with a mulberry tart (and later in the season, a blackberry tart), oat crisp, mulberry sorbet and elderflowers; in a panna cotta; and as a leafy liner for a cheese course. “[The liners were] a way to showcase what the animal, the sheep, is eating, to make that connection between what you’re eating and what the animal was eating,” Wright says.

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The restaurant’s bar program also benefitted from the bison grass; in Russia, the dried grass is used to make żubrówka, or bison-grass vodka. Instead of drying out the leaves, bartender Phil Ingram infused the fresh product into vodka, resulting in a vibrant bright green hue like you’d expect from crème de menthe. “It was so delicious,” says Tara, who oversees the bar program at Vicia. “Sadly, when it was gone, it was gone, and the cocktail is no more until next year.” The seasonal nature of the menu means you can’t get too attached to one dish or drink; it also means there’s always a new one joining the ranks to delight and surprise you. One of the first desserts Lehman tasted at Vicia was an homage to her herbs: Last spring, weeks after opening, Wright debuted Anne’s Garden, a lemon verbena panna cotta lovingly topped with delicate and colorful edible flower petals, a chocolate crumble meant to resemble soil, and an icy kaffir lime granita.


Anne's Garden

Sweet woodruff panna cotta served in a rocks glass topped with "soil," chervil, petite blue licorice and Moujean tea flowers and leaves.

Michael Gallina “It was beautiful; it looked like a little garden path. It was a lemon verbena panna cotta – and the first time I tried her lemon verbena ice cream, I cried, because she really captures the essence of the herb. It made me feel like I was a little girl again.” -Anne Lehman

“It was beautiful; it looked like a little garden path,” Lehman recalls. “It was a lemon verbena panna cotta – and the first time I tried her lemon verbena ice cream, I cried, because she really captures the essence of the herb. It made me feel like I was a little girl again.”

or fruit, and having that be something, instead of pumping something full of sugar just because people tend to associate desserts with sugar. To actually taste what you’re supposed to be tasting, for example with the sunchoke ice cream, and that’s what pops out to you – it tastes like what it’s supposed to be.”

Lehman also provided Wright with what the chef calls her latest muse and “one of my favorite herbs that she grows,” Moujean tea, which is native to the Bahamas. Last summer, Wright used Moujean tea to make a “cloud” served with cucumber sorbet, raw husk cherries and lime curd. The cloud was made by infusing the Moujean tea into a custard base, which was then added to a whipping canister and injected with nitrous oxide. The result was an airy cream that Wright jokingly compared to “a Reddi-wip whipped cream toy for grown-ups.” Lehman says the creativity and pure, authentic flavor of the dish blew her away.

But what if you don’t really know what something is supposed to taste like? When presented with unfamiliar ingredients like bison grass and allspice leaves, Wright first does her research before delving into development for her menu. She’ll study where the ingredient comes from, consult Lehman for advice, investigate what other chefs have used it with and how to interpret it in her own personal style.

“I think she’s an artist,” Lehman says. “Not only does everything taste really good, the composition of what she does on the plate is always very playful. With the Moujean tea cloud, she hid the husk cherries inside the dessert. I think she does that – she hides things in her desserts – so you don’t always see what [you're getting]. That playful composition is very rare.” There's also a perfect balance to all of Wright’s desserts. She’s not afraid to employ an herbal, botanical, savory, spicy, bitter or acidic component to balance sweet notes. “She’s not shy and she doesn’t hold back,” Lehman says. “She’s really brave about letting things remain subtle, yet when you look at the plate, the things that you think are going to be subtle, aren’t. She can alter people’s minds.” Michael says that such thoughtful and surprising balance is one of his favorite elements of Wright’s approach. “I wouldn’t say I have a sweet tooth," Michael says. "I don’t always crave sweet things, and that’s what I always love about her desserts – it’s not this punch-in-theface, sugary dessert. It’s balanced. It’s taking the natural sweetness of a vegetable

“When you clock out, you’re never really clocked out,” Wright says of her process. “You go home, research things, think about things, write down notes, read books or websites, constantly trying to satisfy your own curiosities. I’ve learned how to push the limits here.” If an ingredient is unknown to a chef, it’s likely just as foreign to a diner, which is why the service team at Vicia also receives an education about every ingredient on the menu. Tara says one of her greatest joys at Vicia is sharing those discoveries and stories with diners. “Not everybody is there to listen to you tell a story, but there definitely are people who are,” she says. “I’ve had a lot of conversations with people who are like, ‘Allspice leaf? Where do you get that?’ Or, ‘I’ve had allspice, but never the leaves.’ And it’s like, ‘Well, believe it or not, there’s this lady in Tower Grove South who’s growing all this crazy stuff behind her house.’ And it starts this whole other conversation. And hopefully that’s the takeaway from their experience – I learned something. Sometimes people come back and tell stories about what they’ve done to emulate a thing they’ve tried [at Vicia], and I find that to be the most rewarding.” If bison-grass cocktails and allspice-leaf ice cream aren’t your thing, that’s OK. The team at Vicia knows that sometimes you just want a grilled ham sandwich or Inspired Local Food Culture

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apple-butter turnover for lunch, or a hearty cut of Berkshire pork for dinner. Those dishes still adhere to the restaurant’s mission, though: The sandwich is smeared with a squash mustard, and the apple butter is partially made with apple cores. An ingredient doesn’t have to be unfamiliar to be made in an unfamiliar way. “Last week I was looking at my pastry assistant, and I was like, ‘Is it weird to have a byproduct from a byproduct?’” Wright says. “And then I said, ‘No, that’s how it works.’ So we candied these orange peels [that were leftover from juicing oranges at the bar], and you get this really beautiful syrup that goes back to the bar. I took the bar’s trash and made something delicious that works for me, and now I’ve giving [the bar] back my byproduct; it’s full circle. Nothing is wasted, and it’s all in different forms: juice, syrup and this chewy candied fruit.”

Grapefruit Tart Tart shell filled with caramelized white chocolate ganache, puffed farro, grapefruit curd and wedges, candied grapefruit rind and lemon verbena ice cream.

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Tara nods, laughing: “It makes you feel good about buying citrus in California.” The syrup is currently being used with a build-your-own Manhattan cocktail as a pairing with the chef’s tasting menu. As with her onion caramel sauce last March, it's creativity and curiosity that fuels Wright's fearlessness in the kitchen. Still, her ultimate goal is to thrill guests – or rather, to share how thrilling dessert can truly be. “It’s really satisfying when I hear ‘Oh, I didn’t think I liked pumpkin, or black licorice,’” Wright says. “The [other] warm-fuzzy feeling is when somebody comes in and says they’re just here for dessert. Or they had dinner somewhere else and they came here for dessert – God, that’s such a great feeling.” 4260 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, viciarestaurant.com


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Mike Atkinson lived every kid’s dream: He spent his childhood in a candy store. His parents purchased The Candy Factory in Columbia, Missouri, in 1986 (it first opened in 1974), and today he carries on the legacy they built. His devotion to the upkeep of the historic treasure is as meticulous as his preservation of the family recipes used to make the shop’s signature sweets, including chocolate-covered strawberries, sea-salt caramels and English toffee. We recently caught up with Atkinson to find out where he likes to dine and grab a drink in Columbia when he’s off the clock. –Lauren Smith

with Mike Atkinson owner,

the candy factory

photo courteSy of the candy factory, by randi meyer

ImagIne you have one entIre day to dedIcate to dInIng out In columbIa. Where Would you grab breakfast, lunch and dInner, and What Would you be orderIng at each spot? My favorite breakfast stop is Broadway Diner. It’s a bit dated and cramped inside, but I think the ambiance actually adds to the flavor of the food. I order the Original Stretch (fried hash browns and two scrambled eggs topped with chili and Cheddar cheese garnished with green peppers and onions) with a side of biscuits and gravy. There’s no better place to have a Sunday lunch than at The Claysville Store on the Missouri River bottoms in Hartsburg, Missouri. Everything is made from scratch, and they serve down-home Southern cooking that can only be rivaled by your grandma’s: hand-battered fried chicken, mashed potatoes and gravy, green beans and applesauce, all served family style. No matter how full I am, getting a slice of fruit pie for dessert is a must. For dinner, my wife, Amy, and I always choose Sophia’s. Amy loves the Chicken Mudega, and I get the applewood pork chop, a thick chop served on top of polenta and topped with ginger-apple chutney and glazed walnuts. These are usually accompanied by a few glasses of red wine. craft beer cellar

the claysvIlle store

broadWay dIner

What’s your favorIte drInk, and Where In columbIa are you orderIng It?

“The late-night eats scene in Columbia just got a lot better with the recent addition of The Quarry, a new pub and Cajun restaurant with a New Orleans feel.”

sophIa’s

the Quarry

I’m a beer guy through and through, [and] there are two beers I love equally: Option #2, a chocolate-hazelnut stout from Rock Bridge Brewing Co., and Snapper, an IpA from Logboat Brewing Co. you can find me enjoying these at Craft Beer Cellar in Columbia. Where do you go for late-nIght eats and/or a nIghtcap? The late-night eats scene in Columbia just got a lot better with the recent addition of The Quarry, a new pub and Cajun restaurant with a New Orleans feel. The house po’boy (andouille sausage, fried pickles, pepper Jack cheese, lettuce and tomatoes) and trashed chicken wings are legit! The bartenders are world-class and make some fancy-looking drinks.

shIloh bar & grIll

What’s currently your favorIte meal at a local restaurant? My favorite meal in Columbia is the rib dinner at Shiloh Bar & grill. Shiloh has a sports-bar feel, but some damn good food, and in my opinion the crown sits atop the ribs. They’re dry-rubbed, smoked, juicy and tender. Add a side of Calico Beans and horseradish coleslaw, put on a Mizzou Tigers game, and there’s nowhere I’d rather be stuffing my face!

patrIc chocolate

pHOTOgRApHy COuRTESy INSTAgRAM uSERS

Who In the local food scene InspIres you? I’m inspired by fellow chocolatier Alan McClure of patric Chocolate [in Columbia]. Alan makes delicious small-batch, bean-to-bar chocolates. His dedication to flavor is inspiring.

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April 2018 Feast Magazine  
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