April 2021 Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture

/

midwest

a ta s t e o f

korea Dig into funky kimchi, spicy rice cakes, crunchy fried chicken and more.

april 2021

A five-day celebration of music, art, and cutting-edge nonfiction film transforming Stephens Lake Park into a one-of-a-kind creative wonderland OUTDOORS MASKED PHYSICALLY-DISTANCED

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THE STORY OF FOOD BEGINS IN THE FIELD A NEW VOICE IN FOOD MEDIA

DIG IN: feastandfield.net

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PROMOTION

THIS MONTH WE'RE TASTING > VIGNOLES Feast continues its series of Virtual Wine Tastings, bringing the wine safely to your door. Tune in online to sip along and learn about Missouri's iconic wines. With warmer weather comes lighter pours, and the Vignoles grape features a tropical fruit flavor enhanced by an acidic backbone. The locally grown grape can produce white wine that ranges from dry and semi-dry to sweet, all of which create a layered, light drink that’s perfect for springtime. To learn more about the event on Thu., April 29 or locally produced wines like these, visit feastmagazine.com/wine. eastmagazine.com/wine.

NOBOLEIS VINEYARDS The Noboleis Vineyards 2018 Vignoles, which has been awarded 92 points by Wine Enthusiast, displays notes of pineapple, pear and citrus. This smooth, light-bodied white wine pairs beautifully with spicy Mexican food and cheesecake! Estategrown and -produced, Noboleis’ semisweet Vignoles is perfect for sunny afternoons spent with family and friends on their hillside pavilion in historic Augusta, Missouri.

STONE HILL WINERY Stone Hill Winery’s Vignoles exudes rich pineapple and fresh citrus fruit flavors and aromas. Fermentation is stopped at just the right moment to achieve the perfect balance of natural sweetness. It’s a great accompaniment for spicy foods, sipping by itself or with desserts. The shy-bearing Vignoles grape can be challenging to grow and achieves its richest complexities in sunny vineyards, harvested in late August.

noboleisvineyards.com 100 Hemsath Road, Augusta, Missouri

stonehillwinery.com 1110 Stone Hill Highway, Hermann, Missouri

LES BOURGEOIS VINEYARDS

AUGUSTA WINERY

The Les Bourgeois Vineyards Vignoles is a well-balanced, semi-dry white wine produced from Missouri grapes. With a rich floral nose, this fresh white wine delivers a hint of sweetness and a crisp, subtle finish. This vintage was aged in stainless steel for six months. The Les Bourgeois Vignoles has won several awards in the last few years including “Best of Class” at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

missouriwine.com 12847 W. Hwy. BB, Rocheport, Missouri

The 2020 Augusta Winery Vignoles is a semi-sweet white wine made from 100 percent Vignoles grapes. The pour is light golden in color with a pineapple and tropical fruit bouquet, while the body is fresh and crisp with a slightly sweet finish. The 2020 vintage is especially refreshing with very well-balanced acidity and has a cellar life of two to three years. This Vignoles pairs well with spicy foods and fresh cut fruit.

augustawinery.com 5601 High St., Augusta, Missouri

VIP TICKETS INCLUDE: RÖBLLER VINEYARD

Röbller Vineyard’s 2018 Estate Reserve Vignoles started in the vineyard where the dry-farmed fruit began to raisin at harvest. A 24-hour cold soak captured texture, 35-day fermentation preceded Malolactic inoculation and 18 months of sur lie aging. The finished wine was bottled and aged for 18 months prior to release. The approach created a rich, creamy, mineral-laced wine with dense layers of tropical fruits, bright clean acidity and a lengthy finish. robllerwines.com, 275 Röbller Vineyard Road, New Haven, Missouri / a pr i l 2 02 1

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Inspired Local Food Culture / m i d w e s t

april

2021

Volume 11 / Issue 4 Publisher

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

general manager

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com managing editor

Susan Eckert, seckert@laduenews.com 314.269.8838

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com

Special projects coordinator

assistant editor

Aubrey Byron, abyron@feastmagazine.com

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

cooking with seoul

Contact Us

Melanie Meyer of Tiny Chef continues to find new ways to connect with her Korean heritage.

Feast Media, 901 N. 10th St., St. Louis, MO 63101 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor

Mabel Suen Springfield Contributing Editor

Distribution

Tessa Cooper

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Rich Hudson for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at rhudson@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Columbia Contributing Editor

Jessica Vaughn Martin fact checker

Karen Parkman Proofreader

taking it to the streets Local restaurant owners detail five popular Korean street foods, from tteokbokki to mandu.

Alecia Humphreys

side to side

Contributing Writers

Chef Hana Chung shares a few of her favorite banchan recipes – and what they mean to her.

Cheryl Baehr, Hana Chung, Kala Elkinton, Amanda Elliott, Amy Feese, Rogan Howitt, Darrell Loo, JC Sandt, Nancy Stiles, Shannon Weber

ART Art Director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers

Brandon Alms, Jordan Bauer, Zach Bauman, Garon Cooper, Sean Locke, Paige McDonald, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Sekondtry, Jennifer Silverberg, Christopher Smith, Mabel Suen, Kim Wade, Cheryl Waller

/ 13 / the dish

Haemul Pajeon

Carson McNamara

/ 15 / One on One

Joyce Moon of Pocha STL

/ 24 / healthy appetite

Dubu Jorim

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2021 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

/ 16 / hot blocks

/ 25 / ONE ON ONE

Angela Hong of Born with Seoul

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

/ 18 / the mix

Pandan Painkiller

and Seoul Garden

“Little Korea” in Overland Park, Kansas

/ 19 / ONE ON ONE

Jay Jung of Little Korea on the cover Chef Hana Chung’s banchan recipes by Paige McDonald table of contents Melanie Meyer of Tiny Chef in St. Louis by Sekondtry feastmagazine.com / a pr i l 2 0 2 1

Kojaba Bar

/ 14 / dine & Drink

Fire Chicken, Sno Bubble Tea, / 22 / mystery shopper Kokodak

Pickled Mustard Greens

Contributing Illustrator

8

/ 20 / hometown hits

Oriental Spoon, U-City Grill,

/ 26 / quick fix

Kimchi Mac ‘N’ Cheese / 27 / culinary library

Jina Yoo of Jina Yoo’s Asian Bistro and Le Bao

/ 28 / crash course

Kimchi

WWW.CLASSIC1073.ORG

MUSICAL ANCESTRIES™

NEW BOLD. BUBBLY.

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9

Letter

from the

Publisher

A

s we were nailing down the cover for this month’s Korean-themed issue, everyone on the Feast team agreed that just looking at chef Hana Chung digging into all of that gorgeous food made each one of us absolutely ravenous.

cuisine at its Creve Coeur, Missouri, location while bringing vibrant Korean pub fare to St. Louis via Pocha STL (p. 15).

I returned to that restaurant again and again just to experience as much as I possibly could. More than a decade ago, the Moon family took over Seoul Garden and is carrying forth the restaurant’s focus on traditional Korean 10

feastmagazine.com / a pr i l 2 0 2 1

Catherine Neville

publisher@feastmagazine.com

PHOTO by brett crow, captiva studios

Today, as we send this issue to press, our nation is grappling with a horrific rise in anti-Asian racism amid the pandemic. I hope that this Korean cuisine is all about balance issue can remind everyone that My chicken pot pies have a bit of sweetness from spring peas and some depth and harmony. As Chung mentions in her food brings us together, serving of flavor from prosciutto. Get the video and recipe at feastmagazine.com. feature on page 40, the banchan that is as a bridge to connect people and served with a Korean meal – those tiny side dishes – are there to balance out all cultures. In these pages, we hope to help foster a deeper sense of community of the flavors on the table. A little bite of this, a little bite of that and then all of as we introduce you to the many people who are offering a taste of Korea right the flavors are heightened. here in the heart of the Midwest, from Fire Chicken in Overland, Missouri, (p.

14) to Ssong’s Hotdog in Kansas City (p. 16) to Sno Bubble Tea in Springfield, I fondly remember my first visit to Seoul Garden in St. Ann, Missouri, not long Missouri, (p. 14). No matter where you live, there’s likely Korean food close after I graduated from college. I had never experienced Korean cuisine before, by, being cooked up by your neighbors. Stop by (or get something to go) and and when I sat down, all by myself, and ordered up a sizzling plate of beef bulgogi, show your love and support for what these restaurants add to the wonderfully I was absolutely delighted when more than a dozen shiny stainless steel bowls diverse flavor of our region. were presented along with a heap of steamed white rice and the sweet and salty, meltingly tender beef. Each one of those dishes offered intense flavor and Until next time, texture that I relished exploring. Teeny whole fish with a sweet sauce. Vinegary cubes of turnip. Crunchy bean sprouts with sesame. Funky kimchi. Spicy, cold cucumber. I immediately fell in love with the complexity of Korean cooking.

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Wine Flights Live Music Breathtaking Views

100 Hemsath Rd.Augusta, MO, 63332

Family Owned, Family Grown.

noboleisvineyards.com / a pr i l 2 02 1

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PROMOTION PROMOTION

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the dish / dine & drink / hot blocks / the mix / hometown hits / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / crash course

For the past decade, Joo Joo Restaurant & Karaoke has served as a pillar of the Korean community in the St. Louis area, offering traditional Korean food and drinks plus karaoke rooms for a fun and flavorful experience. When chef LJ Lee took over the business in 2018, he refreshed the menu, putting his own twists on classic recipes. His version of haemul pajeon (Korean seafood and scallion pancakes), for example, is thicker, crunchier and loaded with savory flavor. He also serves it as one big pancake instead of smaller, individual pancakes, and it’s meant to be shared with the table. –Mabel Suen

Recipe by LJ Lee, chef-owner, Joo Joo Restaurant & Karaoke Photography by sean locke

serves 2 to 4

2

1

1

1

1

½

1

5

3

b “Seafood pancakes are

a staple at almost every restaurant in South Korea; they have been popular for decades. While the dish was already on the menu [at Joo Joo], I decided to punch up the recipe when I took over the restaurant, and it’s been a customer favorite since we reintroduced it.”

–LJ Lee

Lee recommends using squid, shrimp, scallops and clams for this recipe.

cups all-purpose flour cup cornstarch tsp salt tsp sugar egg cup water cup assorted seafood, cut into 2½-inch pieces green onions, cut on the bias into 1½-inch pieces Tbsp vegetable oil

/ preparation / Using a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, combine flour, cornstarch, salt, sugar, egg and water in a large bowl.

Stir in seafood and green onion. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil until shimmering. Pour batter into pan and tilt pan to evenly distribute; cook until underside is golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes.

Carefully flip pancake and continue to cook until underside reaches desired crispiness, approximately 3 minutes.

Transfer pancake to a plate. Serve with desired sauce (soy sauce, Sriracha, etc.).

/ a pr i l 2 02 1

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the dish / dine & drink / hot blocks / the mix / hometown hits / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / crash course

Sno Bubble Tea Written by Tessa Cooper / photography by brandon alms

▲ OVERLAND, MO

Fire Chicken Story and photography by Mabel Suen

Step aside Colonel Sanders – we’re ordering dakgangjeong from Fire Chicken tonight. Located in Overland, Missouri, the new Korean carryout concept from husband-and-wife team Sungmin and Michelle Baik serves the deep-fried, bite-size boneless chicken morsels in five different styles: sweet bulgogi; sweet teriyaki; the namesake “fire” with jalapeño, garlic and sweet soy sauce; “red” with sweet and spicy red chile gochujang; and extra spicy “buldak,” each of which is topped with scallions and sesame seeds. Fire Chicken was inspired by a gangjeong restaurant that Sungmin’s parents used to own in Seoul, South Korea. He suggests rounding out your meal with an appetizer such as mandu (deep-fried pork dumplings) or deep-fried shrimp tempura.

10200 Page Ave., Overland, Missouri, 314.551.2123

2825 S. Glenstone Ave., Suite 08, Springfield, Missouri, facebook.com/snobubbletea

▶ OVERLAND PARK, KS

Kokodak Written by Kala Elkinton photography by christopher smith

14856 Metcalf Ave., Overland Park, Kansas, kokodakchicken.com feastmagazine.com / a pr i l 2 0 2 1

misugaru-flavored bingsu

Food court refreshments at Battlefield Mall in Springfield, Missouri, are not what you’d expect.

At Sno Bubble Tea, bubble tea with chewy tapioca balls and a delicious top layer of foam dominates the menu, but this month, we’re going for the bingsu – and so should you. Owner Alice Oh describes the Korean dessert as shaved ice-meets-ice cream because it manages a crunchy and creamy texture at the same time. While flavors range from strawberry to matcha to coffee, the misugaru-flavored bingsu is the most traditional. Misugaru – a protein-packed multigrain powder primarily made from beans and rice – gives the frozen concoction an earthy quality, and it’s topped with azuki beans (sweet red beans), mochi and sliced almonds, which reminds Oh of the bingsu her mom used to make from scratch every summer.

Nestled in an unassuming strip mall in Overland Park, Kansas, Kokodak offers traditional Korean dishes such as japchae and bibimbap, but the crispy Korean fried chicken leaves the greatest impression on customers. Fried fresh every day, the chicken is slathered in your choice of sauce, from galbi (smoky soy sauce with Asian pear) to yangnyeom (traditional Korean hot pepper paste with garlic and apple cider vinegar) to Kansas City barbecue for a smoky-sweet flavor. Pair it with tteokbokki (spicy stir-fried rice cakes) for a completely Korean experience.

14

(

▶ SPRINGFIELD, MO

ONE ON ONE

ONE on

/

st. louis

with Joyce Moon / manager, Pocha STL and Seoul Garden popular dishes

at Pocha STL

Written by Rachel Huffman photography by jordan bauer

It’s been more than a decade since Joyce Moon’s family took over Seoul Garden in St. Ann, Missouri. At the time, it was the only restaurant offering all-you-can-eat Korean barbecue in the St. Louis area.

Moon, who was in high school, remembers it getting really busy really quickly. “There

pork cheese fries

The ultimate comfort food, these fries are topped with Seoul Garden’s spicy pork, cheese, a drizzle of spicy mayonnaise and green onion.

was no investment money, no funding from the outside; it was just our family and almost a hole in the wall,” she says. “But the place was packed every weekend. We were just trying to keep up, learning how to handle the massive influx of people as we went. It took a few years for us to adjust to such a business boom.” In 2017, the family opened a second location of Seoul Garden on Olive Boulevard, and this past August, they turned the original location into Pocha STL, which features Korean street food, pub grub and Asian fusion fare as opposed to the more traditional Korean cuisine served at Seoul Garden. Although

yaki udon

she’s the manager of both restaurants,

Although the base of this dish is stirfried Japanese udon, the flavor profile is Korean. It’s very garlicky, slightly spicy and comes with vegetables and your choice of protein. Served in a hot skillet, it arrives at the table sizzling.

Moon says for the longest time she just called herself “the owners’ daughter.” “This is my family’s thing – it’s our way of making a living – so it’s weird to give myself a title.”

Pocha is short for pojangmachas, which are eateries based out of small tents that were once a fixture of South Korean nightlife. How does Pocha STL reflect that concept? From my experience, pojangmachas are really downto-earth and reflect the feel of Seoul city life.

Anyone from salarymen to blue-collar workers to college students can pop into a tent and grab a bite and a nightcap. The pubs in college towns in South Korea are always booming as well, with people playing Korean drinking games; it’s really loud and energetic and just another level of social bonding. Considering these two concepts, I decided I wanted to provide a comfortable and casual space where people can come and have that kind of fun, diverse experience. I think it’s hard to find pubs or drinking spaces that cater

to a culturally different energy. You have Middle Eastern hookah bars and Japanese izakayas, and at Pocha STL, you have the Korean pub.

Our interior and décor, especially the murals throughout the dining room, reflect Korean culture and touch on that Korean street theme – I use some imagery of Korea in the 1970s because that’s when my parents were young partygoers.

What kind of research did you do to develop the menu at Pocha STL? I was inspired by the ever-expanding culinary and street food scenes in Korea. Whether they first appear on a Korean drama or YouTube, so many Korean food trends go viral. Army stew, for example, is a type of jjigae with ham, sausage, Spam, baked beans, kimchi, gochujang and ramen. Historically, it originated

on army bases; it’s been around for decades, but it went viral because of Korean mukbang, which are super popular eating shows where people live stream themselves eating these huge meals.

Korean hot dogs – which are more like corn dogs – have also become a big thing, and we’re trying to figure out how to do them at Pocha STL. I take these ideas, as well as ingredients from other Asian cuisines such as Japanese udon and some Chinese-Korean staples, and incorporate my mom’s expertise in traditional Korean cuisine.

At Pocha STL, all of our meats come from Seoul Garden, so it’s the same recipes that my mom uses there, and she also makes foundational items for Pocha STL, including broths, stocks and sauces. You’ll find her in both places – you really can’t take her out of it.

Pocha STL, 10678 St. Charles Rock Road, St. Ann, Missouri, pocha-stl.com / Seoul Garden, 10441 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, Missouri, koreanbbqstl.com

fried chicken

A housemade batter gives the fried chicken at Pocha STL an extra crispy shell, which is reminiscent of the fried chicken you’d find in Korea. It’s paired with tangy Pocha Spice sauce or a honeygarlic sauce if you can’t handle the heat. / a pr i l 2 02 1

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the dish / dine & drink / hot blocks / the mix / hometown hits / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / crash course

"Little Korea" OVERLAND PARK, KS

David Ahn’s Favorite Korean Restaurants

Surrounded by big-box retailers and chain restaurants, the Indian Creek Shopping Center in Overland Park, Kansas, is an unlikely but welcome destination for exploring Korean culture. Lovingly nicknamed “Little Korea,” the strip mall houses primarily Korean-owned and -operated restaurants, shops and other businesses that present their own distinct

Choga Korean Restaurant.

offerings while collectively celebrating their cultural identity. Whether

“It is convenient for me because my

you pick up a selection of banchan and Korean barbecue meats for a

family’s market is right across the

home-cooked meal, snag a snack on a stick or settle in for a big bowl of

street. It has large family-style tables

bulgogi, these four spots in Little Korea – all of which are owned by David

and booths so we can all sit together and eat. My favorite thing to get is

Ahn and his family – provide an exciting crash course in Korean cuisine.

the crispy seafood pancake, haemul

–Jenny Vergara

1. Cáfe Vie A melting pot within Little Korea, this bustling café serves Korean, Chinese, Vietnamese and Thai food in equal measure. In the dining room, you can find a family slurping up bowls of pho and across the room, see a couple enjoying plates of beef bulgogi and spicy pork with rice. No matter which cuisine you crave, we suggest ending your meal with one of the six different flavors of mochi ice cream.

10330 Metcalf Ave., Overland Park, Kansas, cafevieks.com

2. Oriental Super Market

10336 Metcalf Ave., Overland Park, Kansas, kcorientalsupermarket.com

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octopus and shrimp.”

The Ahn family opened South Korean franchise Ssong’s Hotdog in Little Korea this spring. The snack shop sells Korean hot dogs – what’s typically referred to as corn dogs in the U.S. – and other incredible eats on sticks. Try the Cheddar sausage hot dog and the potato sausage hot dog, or for something sans hot dog, we recommend the spicy seaweed spring roll stick or the Tornado Fries, which are made by peeling, slicing and frying a whole potato – on a stick, of course.

Chosun Korean BBQ. “This place is located a little farther south of ‘Little Korea’ on Metcalf Avenue. I tend to order the same thing at all Korean restaurants: My go-to is barbecue.

Here, at Chosun, that’s the specialty.”

10308 Metcalf Ave., Overland Park, Kansas, ssongshotdogks.com

4. Tous les Jours 4.

A French-style bakery that specializes in Asian-inspired baked goods, Tous les Jours offers irresistible indulgences such as sweet red bean buns, sesame donuts, green tea cakes with fresh cream and whipped cream pan bread (a take on Japanese milk bread). Soboro ppang, also known as Korean streusel bread, is a sweet bun with a streusel-like upper crust and subtle peanut flavor that’s popular in Korea – and a highlight of the menu here. Don’t have a sweet tooth? The kimchi croquettes play for the savory side.

10348 Metcalf Ave., Overland Park, Kansas, tljks.com

1.

2.

3.

photography by zach bauman

Besides offering a large selection of Korean pantry staples, prepared foods and other products, Oriental Super Market is a social hub for the area’s Korean-American community.

On your next shopping trip, grab cuts of beef – sliced and ready for the grill – along with tofu and fermented soybeans from the refrigerated cases. Pick up fresh produce and herbs, bottles of your favorite sauces such as gochujang and specialty snacks. And don’t forget to stop by the deli counter where ready-to-eat banchan (Korean side dishes) abound to really round out your meal.

pajeon, with green onions, squid,

3. Ssong’s Hotdog

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MUD RUN

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& SWINGIN’ UNDER THE STARS Main Stage at Crites Park.

May 23, 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. with

JOE PAPPAS and featuring vocalist JOE SCALZITTI under the direction of

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the dish / dine & drink / hot blocks / the mix / hometown hits / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / crash course

Korean spirits can be difficult to find on menus in Missouri, and so I give you this bright green version of a Painkiller, which takes inspiration from the flavors and playful nature of Korean cuisine and culture.

The final cocktail tastes almost like a Piña Colada and features pandan-infused coconut cream, ginger liqueur and soju, a Korean neutral grain distillate similar to vodka but with a lower ABV. Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photography by cheryl waller

Pandan Painkiller

Serves 1 Look for the Coco Lopez brand.

Pandan extract can be found at most Asian markets. Look for the Butterfly or McCormick brand.

BSoju’s drinkability has made it the best-selling spirit in the world, but many Americans still don’t include it on their bar carts. Jinro, with its iconic green bottle and yellow label, is the most popular brand if you’re shopping around, and it’s an ideal spirit to pass around the table with friends or to substitute in cocktails to make the night last longer.

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Pandan Coconut Cream (Yields 30 oz) 1 14-oz can unsweetened coconut milk 1 15-oz can cream of coconut 1 tsp pandan extract 1 pinch kosher salt Pandan Painkiller 2 oz pineapple juice 1½ oz pandan coconut cream (recipe follows) 1½ oz soju 1 oz ginger liqueur ½ oz orange liqueur pineapple wheel, for garnish / preparation – pandan coconut cream / Add all ingredients to a blender; blend until well combined.

Transfer to an airtight container and store in refrigerator for up to two weeks. / preparation – pandan painkiller / Add all ingredients to a shaker tin with 8 ounces of ice.

Shake until ice is broken and ingredients are well mixed. Pour mixture into your favorite 12-ounce glass. Top with ice as needed. Garnish with pineapple wheel and an umbrella.

ONE ON ONE /

with Jay Jung / owner, Little Korea ung's yJ

Protein

Both beef and tofu for a protein-packed meal.

O

T P T O

TE H

O

FAV

RI

Broth

The original, featuring a soy sauce base.

t

t Ja

ONE on

sPRINGFIELD, MO

Sauce

Vegetables

Add-ons

Citrus ponzu, which is basically soy sauce with a vinegary kick.

The assortment that comes with every hot pot, including bean sprouts, carrots, enoki mushrooms, napa cabbage, onion, scallions and sweet potato.

Udon noodles, but kimchi and boiled egg are fan favorites too.

Written by Tessa Cooper / photography by brandon Alms

Jay Jung emigrated from Seoul, South Korea, to Springfield, Missouri, with his family when he was in middle school. Whenever he went back to Korea to visit, his uncle, Chan Park, who is a famous Korean chef, would take him to all the best places to eat. In southwest Missouri, Jung has tapped into his heritage and memories of those meals with his uncle to build a veritable restaurant empire: He owned the now-shuttered Jin’s Korean Grill, he now owns Kuma Japanese Ramen & Sushi and OMO Japanese Soul Food, and in 2019, he opened Little Korea. His greatest inspiration for the latter was something Springfield diners can’t get anywhere else: individual hot pots. Jung custom-ordered the necessary equipment from Korea in order to offer customers an inclusive hot pot experience that can accommodate any dietary restrictions and/or preferences. The concept has been well-received by the community, who can enjoy other Korean classics such as bibimbap, bulgogi and pajeon (savory Korean pancakes) at Little Korea as well.

What are the advantages of individual hot pots? Some people don’t eat chicken. Some people don’t eat tofu. Everyone has a different [palate], so they can order for themselves and get exactly what they want.

How does Korean hot pot differ from Chinese hot pot? We eat rice with Korean hot pot, and we eat it [like] soup. With Chinese hot pot, they normally don’t eat the broth; they just use the seasoned soup to cook the meats and vegetables and then eat them with sauce.

How has the Korean food scene in Springfield evolved over the years? When I was growing up, there was only one Korean restaurant in Springfield, and we would only eat there maybe once a month because my mom was a chef, so she normally cooked at home for us. Now, there are more Korean people [opening restaurants]; they want to try something new, so they’re just testing a lot of new stuff. I think that’s why there’s more variety now. There is [friendly] competition, [but] I think everyone is doing well. I think [the Korean food scene] is really good, and it’s going to be even better as more time goes by.

3354 S. National Ave., Springfield, Missouri, facebook.com/pages/category/Korean-Restaurant/ Little-Korea-SGF-658653387893477 / a pr i l 2 02 1

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the dish / dine & drink / hot blocks / the mix / hometown hits / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / crash course

UNIVERSITY CITY, MO

These three delicious destinations are under the radar – but should be on yours.

U-City Grill written by Kasey Carlson / photography by jordan bauer

If you aren’t paying attention, you could whizz right past U-City Grill on Enright Avenue in University City, Missouri, and never even know it’s there. But first-time guests and longtime patrons alike agree that the Delmar Loop staple is worth a stop.

While it might look like a typical greasy spoon, the menu boasts bulgogi instead of burgers and kimchi instead of kosher dill pickles. Other specialties from the no-frills selection include bibimbap and kimbap (Korean seaweed rice rolls), but every dish delivers a balance of traditional yet approachable flavors for an affordable price.

6696 Enright Ave., University City, Missouri, facebook.com/pages/U-City-Grill/741357719323979

ßeef bulgogi rice bow l

▲ EDWARDSVILLE, IL

Oriental Spoon Written by Kasey Carlson photography by garon cooper

In Edwardsville, Illinois, there’s only one option for Korean food. Lucky for us, Oriental Spoon is a family-owned and -operated mainstay of the local restaurant scene. For the past 12 years, hungry diners have flocked here for the first-rate bulgogi and noodle soups, among other items. Chef Tae Kim says his favorite dish is the spicy pork bulgogi noodle soup, but any of the restaurant’s dishes made with its sweet and spicy strawberry sauce – the Kim family’s answer to requests for orange chicken – are also worth a try. With only 10 tables, plus a patio in the warmer months, this spot is small, but the Kims put a lot of thought and care into the food they serve.

229 Harvard Dr., Edwardsville, Illinois, orientalspoon.net 20

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◀ COLUMBIA, MO

Kojaba Bar Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin / photo courtesy of kojaba bar

Gloria Kim got the cooking gene from her mother. Together, they emigrated from Korea to the U.S. almost 35 years ago, and in time, her mother taught her the ins and outs of running a restaurant kitchen. Today, Kim shares her talent for crafting traditional Korean fare at Kojaba Bar, located at the edge of The District in Columbia, Missouri. Open since 2007, Kojaba offers a medley of Korean and Japanese specialties, including kimchi jjigae served with vegetables, tofu and seafood in a hot bowl. Kim loves watching diners use the tabletop grills, too, as they always seem to bring out people’s playfulness.

21 N. Providence Road, Columbia, Missouri, facebook.com/kojaba.como

PROMOTI ON

How teas can bring an infusion of good health SPONSORED CONTENT BY KATHERINE LEWIS

BLACK TEA Black tea is known for its rich, bold taste, a result of the leaves’ exposure to oxygen and heat after they’ve been picked.

Despite its name, black tea ranges in color from red to brown, and it accounts for almost 90 percent of all the tea sold in the Western world—Earl Gray, Ceylon and Darjeeling are among the best-known varieties.

Black tea is fantastic for the digestive system, skin and hair, and it contains powerful antioxidants.

One long-term study showed that drinking three cups of black tea a day greatly improved heart health, blood pressure and cholesterol levels.

For thousands of years people have turned to tea as a medicine, as a ritual and simply as a comforting drink. There are countless varieties and blends, and each can benefit the body in different ways. Fruit teas—such as mango, peach and hibiscus—are made from dried pieces of fruit rather than tea leaves, so they are naturally caffeine-free and make flavorful iced tea. For those looking to replace their morning coffee with tea, black tea is a good place to start: Although it has only half the caffeine of coffee, black tea generally is the most caffeinated tea type. Ceylon teas are ideal for those who want to go bold, while Earl Grey brings a note of citrus. With just 28 milligrams of caffeine per eightounce cup, green tea is an even mellower choice.

“Tea—especially green tea and matcha, its powdered form—contains polyphenols, a type of antioxidant that are thought to be anti-inflammatory, meaning they can help protect against many chronic illnesses, like heart disease and certain cancers,” says Dr. Yin Cao, Washington University associate professor and epidemiologist at Siteman Cancer Center. “Polyphenols can also help regulate blood sugar, so regular tea drinking over time may help reduce the risk of diabetes.” Tea is also an important source

of flavonoids, another kind of antioxidant, which may lower blood pressure and cholesterol counts. White teas, derived from the young shoots of tea leaves, have the highest levels of antioxidants per cup.

GREEN TEA There isn’t a single word that accurately describes how green tea tastes: Where the leaves

Dr. Cao cautions that just because something is labeled a tea doesn’t automatically mean it’s good for you. “Be careful when choosing trendier teas—detox teas may contain laxatives and be harmful to your health, and drinks like bubble tea and green tea lattes can be packed with sugar,” she says. “And be mindful of the ingredients in herbal teas.

These are considered herbal supplements, and some Dr. Yin Cao Washington University ingredients may interact with associate professor medications, so be sure to talk and epidemiologist at Siteman Cancer Center to your doctor to learn more PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER before adding it to your diet.”

are grown and how they are picked greatly affects the flavor. Some green teas are floral, others are earthy and still others are nutty.

They are also distinct in that they should be steeped for just 20 to 30 seconds in simmering (not boiling) water.

Green tea is derived from plants that haven’t been heavily processed, so they retain a great deal of their health benefits, which may include anti-aging and anti-anxiety properties.

in good taste PRESENTED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

CHAI

HERBAL TEA Chamomile, hibiscus, ginseng and echinacea are all herbal teas, ones made from roots, seeds, fruits or

Chai is so central to

Cinnamon Chai Corn Cakes

everyday life for hundreds of millions of people across

YIELDS | 6 |

the Indian subcontinent that the word chai literally

herbs. These teas are often blends of many kinds of leaves, so there are infinite

means tea. (To order

• 1 7-oz package yellow cornbread mix • ¼ cup vanilla yogurt • ¼ cup cinnamon applesauce

like a pro, just ask for

• ½ cup chai

"chai"—rather than chai

choices to pick from.

Herbal teas are renowned for their calming and mood-boosting properties (many are caffeine-free), and some—such as those containing turmeric—may improve digestive and liver function while reducing inflammation and lowering bad cholesterol.

tea—which would be "tea

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400˚F. Grease six compartments of muffin pan. Bring ½

tea.") In the West, what

cup water to a boil. Remove from heat and add chai tea bag to hot water. Let steep at least 5 minutes. As tea steeps, pour contents of cornbread mix into medium bowl. Add cinnamon, applesauce and vanilla yogurt. Stir to mix. Remove tea bag from water and pour tea into cornbread mixture. Stir until batter is mostly smooth. Pour ½ cup batter into six greased compartments of pan. Bake 17 to 20 minutes until golden brown. Let cool 7 to 10 minutes before serving.

we think of as chai is more widely known as masala chai—masala meaning spice mixture. Chai most commonly includes cardamom, ginger, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg, and its health benefits

Nutritional information per cake: 143 calories, 3g fat, 27 carbs, 4g protein Nutrition information (1 cookie): 150 calories, 8g fat, 46mg sodium, 17g carbohydrate, 1g fiber, 4g protein

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN

vary depending upon the kind and amount of spices each blend uses. Cinnamon may help improve memory and lower blood pressure, while cardamom is thought to support digestive and immune health.

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the dish / dine & drink / hot blocks / the mix / hometown hits / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / crash course

What Do I Do With It?

Spice up any spread with these fermented greens.

Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

With the resurgence of pickled vegetables and home cooks’ increasing willingness to experiment, it’s not hard to find ways to tuck pickled mustard greens into everyday dishes. But if you’re stuck for how to use them, look to a typical Korean table. These greens pair well with rich or spicy meat and fish, slicing right through any fattiness, and their sourness makes them perfect for adding to stir-fries, noodle dishes and fried rice alongside less pungent vegetables. Their astringency works to bolster

What Is It?

brothy soups as well. Like bao? Pickled mustard greens are a defining component of

Pickled mustard greens (sometimes labeled as “sour mustard greens” in Asian

gua bao (Taiwanese pork belly buns). If you like greens with your eggs, you’ll also love

markets) are the deliciously funky result of fermenting the fresh greens in a rice

the combination of flavors and textures in the following frittata recipe.

vinegar brine with chiles and garlic. I’m not talking about those slender, delicate

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mustard greens you see at most supermarkets: These pickles are made from

Pickled mustard greens are simple to prepare – just look for gai choy at any Asian

bodacious gai choy, which looks like a mix between napa cabbage and bok choy.

market and then find a recipe online. The packaged ones abound, as well, but

Like most pickles, pickled mustard greens are an addictive mix of sweet and

remember that every brand has a different flavor profile, from sweet-spicy to 100

sour, with a peppery bite and whiffs of dill pickle and horseradish.

percent funky, so if you don’t like the first one you try, don’t give up.

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Frittatas are an easy, elegant brunch dish, and this one sings thanks to the addition of pickled mustard greens. Finely chop the greens to allow for clean slices, and if you want, switch up the type of sausage you use from time to time. I like to use hot Italian sausage, but traditional Italian sausage and chorizo work well, too.

Frittata with Sausage, Goat Cheese & Pickled Mustard Greens

Serves 8 10 ²⁄₃ ¹⁄₃ 2 1 2 6 2

4

large eggs cup milk cup heavy cream Tbsp, plus 2 tsp, olive oil, divided lb hot Italian sausage cloves garlic, minced scallions, white and green parts, trimmed and thinly sliced cups pickled mustard greens, rinsed, squeezed of excess moisture and finely chopped oz fresh goat cheese kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 400°F. In a medium bowl, whisk eggs, milk and heavy cream until combined; set aside.

Heat 2 teaspoons oil in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Add sausage; stirring frequently, cook until browned, breaking it up as it cooks. Transfer sausage to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Wipe remaining grease from skillet and set back over medium heat; add remaining oil. Once oil is shimmering, add garlic and scallions; stirring frequently, cook until fragrant, 1 minute.

Add browned sausage and pickled mustard greens, tossing until ingredients are evenly distributed in the skillet. Pour egg mixture over ingredients and use a spatula to even out mixture. Crumble goat cheese over top; season with salt and pepper. Bake until eggs are just cooked through, 20 to 22 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside, 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

pair with: Bavarian Weissbier

PA I R IT!

The funky and slightly tart nose of the yeast in Urban Chestnut’s Schnickelfritz gives the pickled mustard greens and goat cheese in this recipe a lot to work with. That same yeast also gives the weissbier (meaning “white beer” in German) notes of clove and spice, which correspond to the flavor of the sausage. Finally, the beer’s full-bodied character meets the heft of the egg to compete for dominance. –JC Sandt urbanchestnut.com

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serves 4 1 lb firm tofu 1 tsp salt 1 cup water ¼ cup soy sauce 3 Tbsp honey 1 Tbsp sesame oil, plus more for garnish 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 green onions, whites only, sliced (reserve greens for garnish) 2 Tbsp gochugaru 2 Tbsp grapeseed oil sesame seeds, for garnish (optional) / preparation / Slice tofu into ¼-inch-thick slices; season with salt. In a bowl, combine water, soy sauce, honey, sesame oil, garlic, whites of green onions and gochugaru. Heat grapeseed oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add tofu; sear, 3 minutes per side. Reduce heat to low; add soy sauce mixture to pan. Turn over each piece of tofu to make sure it’s coated in sauce and then simmer until liquid has reduced but pan is still a little wet, 5 to 10 minutes. Stack braised tofu on a plate and spoon remaining sauce over top. Garnish with sesame seeds, greens and a drizzle of sesame oil.

pair with: Pear Brandy

PA I R IT!

I usually pair soju with Korean food, but with dubu jorim, I suggest Vinars da Péra from Edelbrand Pure Distilling in Marthasville, Missouri. The nose is full of ripe Bartlett pears, and the palate is delightfully dry with a hint of sweetness and a clean finish. In a mixing glass, combine 2 ounces Vinars da Péra, ¼ ounce dry vermouth and 2 dashes Regan’s Orange Bitters No. 6. Strain mixture into a chilled Martini glass. Express lemon peel oil over the cocktail and drop peel in glass for garnish.

–Darrell Loo edelbrandpuredistilling.com

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Dubu Jorim Dubu jorim is made by simply searing tofu and then braising it in a soy-based sauce.

I adore banchan, and I always seek out this Korean side dish in the spread. The spice level can be adjusted by either adding more or less gochugaru (Korean chile flakes), which can be found at any Asian market. And this version of dubu jorim, in particular, is delicious chilled and eaten at your leisure the following day.

Story and recipe by Amanda Elliott, chef-owner, Beet Box in Columbia, Missouri Photography by kim wade

Learn more about bancha n and get the recipes for additiona l Korean side dishes on p. 40.

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

KANSAS CITY

with Angela Hong / owner, Born with Seoul How did you turn a family recipe into a successful business? With my mom’s help, we took our gochujang paste and made it into a finishing sauce, which is typically an extra step that home cooks have to learn to do. A ready-made gochujang sauce was not something you could find on grocery store shelves at the time, and we knew we wanted to target busy American home cooks, so we simplified things as much as possible. Even my family on the West Coast told my husband and me that a gochujang sauce, ready-made and gluten-free, was needed.

Today, what products does Born with Seoul offer? We started with two gochujang sauces to be more visible on grocery store shelves: our Original Sesame and our Sweet & Tangy. Both are gluten-free, and both have done very well for us. We also make a delicious bulgogi marinade and dipping sauce that is non-GMO and vegan, and we sell jars of white and black sesame seeds. Gochujang is really a foundational element to great Korean food. The challenging part is explaining to people that ours is more of a finishing sauce, like Sriracha. I really hope people see the difference in our sauce. [When we created it], we were on a mission to leave out all of the chemicals and preservatives typically found in store-bought gochujang, making sure everyone could pronounce all of the ingredients in ours.

Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by zach bauman

When Angela Hong and Nick Crofoot started dating, they made and ate a lot of Korean food.

Although they searched for freshly made gochujang (Korean chile paste) to pair with their meals, they couldn’t find it anywhere in the Kansas City area – so they decided to make it themselves.

The recipe came from Hong’s mother, who emigrated from Korea to Kansas City with her daughter when Hong was two years old, and after some time, the couple – who are now married with two kids – adapted the recipe so that their gluten-sensitive daughter could enjoy it too. Finally, with Mom’s approval, they began bottling and selling two types of gochujang sauce (Original Sesame and Sweet & Tangy), along with a bulgogi marinade and dipping sauce, under the brand name Born with Seoul.

Add Korean flavor to any dish with these 3 sauces from Born with Seoul.

An umami bomb with smoky and earthy flavors from miso and sesame oil, the Original Sesame Gochujang has a smooth heat at the end from gochugaru (Korean chile flakes).

How can people incorporate gochujang or bulgogi sauce in their cooking? The easiest way is to use them in place of ketchup or cocktail, teriyaki and barbecue sauce. Instead of dipping your coconut shrimp in cocktail sauce, use our sweet and tangy gochujang hot sauce. You can also use the sweet and tangy variety as a salad dressing: Take some mixed greens, throw them in a bowl, [add the sauce] and a little more rice vinegar and toss. It’s so flavorful, you don’t really need anything else. Tacos are another thing that you can totally put a Korean flavor spin on. For this, I use the original sesame gochujang or bulgogi sauce.

Cook a pork shoulder in a Crock-Pot and then take it out and massage it with [one of the sauces], shred it and put it in a corn tortilla with some avocado. Bulgogi chicken tacos are good, too.

What has been the best thing about launching Born with Seoul? I am so happy when people tell me that my sauces have helped to open their eyes to how delicious Korean cuisine is and that I have helped them to get their family to try different flavors. Food can be a catalyst to a much greater understanding, and there is a world of flavors to explore. bornwithseoul.com

The Sweet & Tangy Gochujang has a more subdued heat, balanced with a pop of tanginess from rice vinegar. A pinch of sugar gives it the right amount of sweetness to complement notes of garlic – a staple of Korean cooking – in any dish.

Simple but flavorful, the Korean Bulgogi is a rich marinade and dipping sauce built on a foundation of garlic and apple purée, which is rounded out with savory soy sauce and crunch from added sesame seeds, which Born with Seoul also sells. / a pr i l 2 02 1

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the dish / dine & drink / hot blocks / the mix / hometown hits / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / crash course

Kimchi Mac ‘n’ Cheese Mac ‘n’ cheese is one of the greatest comfort foods in the U.S., and I would argue that it only gets better with the addition of kimchi, one of Korea’s favorite ingredients. A traditional side dish of salted and fermented vegetables, kimchi has become more and more prevalent in the U.S. over the past decade, and I would venture to say that it’s now a staple in many kitchens here as well. Sour and spicy, kimchi is packed with umami funk, which complements the creamy nature of this dish, and a top layer of crushed pork rinds adds another spark of flavor to every bite.

Recipe adapted by Amy Feese / Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

In this class, you’ll learn how to use Korean ingredients such as kimchi and gochujang in American dishes. We’ll also explore the elements of more traditional Korean cuisine.

serves 6 to 8

Join Schnucks Cooking School chef Amy Feese on Zoom at 5pm on Thu., April 15 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu. Participants can pick up meal kits containing all the ingredients they’ll need to make the meal at 12332 Manchester Road on Wed., April 14 from 9am to 5pm and Thu., April 15 from 9am to 3pm. For more information, contact the cooking school directly.

nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704 26

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6 1 3 2 1 ½ 1 1 3 1

Tbsp unsalted butter cup spicy napa cabbage kimchi, thinly sliced Tbsp all-purpose flour cups whole milk tsp kosher salt tsp white pepper lb extra sharp Cheddar, grated lb elbow pasta, cooked according to package instructions Tbsp reserved pasta water cup crushed pork rinds

MAKE THE MEAL • Chicken Wings with Angry Sauce • Kimchi Mac ‘n’ Cheese • Sigeumchi Namul (Korean Seasoned Spinach) • Hotteok (Korean Dessert Pancakes)

/ preparation / In a large pot or Dutch oven, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add kimchi; sauté until approximately half of the water from the kimchi has evaporated, 5 to 7 minutes. Whisk in flour; continue to whisk until completely incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes.

Gradually add milk, whisking and scraping the bottom of the pot to keep kimchi from sticking. Continue to whisk mixture until sauce begins to thicken. Add salt, pepper and grated cheese; stir until sauce is smooth. Add pasta; stir until fully combined. Stir in reserved pasta water (this will help the pasta and the sauce come together). Serve with crushed pork rinds sprinkled on top.

CULINARY LIBRARY /

columbia, mo

with Jina Yoo / chef-owner, Jina Yoo’s Asian Bistro and Le Bao tSelf-taught chef Jina Yoo fuses Asian flavor, French technique and

American comfort foods to create the menus at her Columbia, Missouri, restaurants. Here, she explains how her Korean heritage and stash of cookbooks come into play. –As told to Rachel Huffman photography by aaron ottis

I have a unique perspective on food, and I see Korean cuisine in my own way. I don’t cook traditional Korean food, but that doesn’t mean I’m ashamed of my heritage. But then again, what is “traditional?” Food is the same as fashion: It changes decade by decade, even year by year. People who do fusion cuisine, people who think outside of the confines of a certain culture, can’t do that unless they understand the foundational elements. You have to know the basics in order to build off of them; you have to know the rules in order to break them. For instance, in my experience, Americans aren’t really fond of the texture of hobak buchim, Korean zucchini pancakes, so I cook my version in a deep-fryer instead of a skillet to make them crunchier. I take concepts and tweak them in ways that work for me and my customers.

I didn’t go to culinary school. Everything I know about cooking comes from cookbooks, food magazines, trial and error, YouTube videos and my own head. Flipping through some cookbooks, I’m amazed by people’s creativity. I also have a huge family – growing up, our neighbors thought we had a restaurant because we cooked so much food all the time. In my cooking, at home and at my restaurants, my priority is flavor harmony. I see flavor as a puzzle, and I’m always trying to find the perfect pieces to complete the picture.

The Slanted Door

by Charles Phan (2014) This cookbook is truly amazing. Phan is a James Beard Award-winning chef who applies a modern take to classic Vietnamese dishes. The recipes are somewhat complicated but very precise, and they make the main ingredients of the iconic dishes shine.

Home Cooking with Jean-Georges

by Genevieve Ko and Jean-Georges Vongerichten (2011) The recipes in this book are very casual – things we make at home all the time. What I like about them, though, is that they’re created by using Asian spices in American cooking. Vongerichten is a French chef, but I think he really understands Asian food, and I learned quite a bit from him.

Nobu by Nobuyuki Matsuhisa (2001) Talk about thinking outside the box. Every single recipe in this cookbook is fascinating. When I read it for the first time, I wanted to try making everything myself just to see what it would taste like.

Celebrating 30 Years

April 17-18, 2021 RELEASING LAND GRANT RED

robllerwines.com 275 Robller Vineyard Road, New Haven MO 63068, 573-237-3986 / a pr i l 2 02 1

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If there’s one ingredient that’s fundamental to Korean cuisine, it’s kimchi. Made with salted and fermented vegetables (most often cabbage), it’s sour, tangy and usually spicy, and it’s a staple in Korean households. In fact, Yi So-yeon, South Korea’s first astronaut, brought it on her flight to the International Space Station in 2008.

Kimchi has existed for thousands of years; its initial popularity is often linked to the spread of Buddhism, which sometimes emphasizes a vegetarian lifestyle, on the Korean peninsula.

More recently, kimchi has taken the U.S. by storm, popping up on menus in everything from fried rice to dumplings and burgers to tacos. “It’s kind of crazy because even seven or eight years ago, I would never have thought about putting kimchi on the menu,” says restaurateur Munsok So, who offers spicy cabbage kimchi, spicy cucumber kimchi and white radish kimchi at Kimchi Guys in St. Louis. “I remember having a little bit of a phobia, but consumers now are naturally more curious about eating different things and more experimental with fermented foods.”

Think of kimchi as a condiment, ready to lend its bite and crunch to dips, stews, savory pancakes, noodle dishes, braised meats and more.

Writte n by Nancy Stiles Photog raphy by sean locke / Illustr ations by carson

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Mcnam ara

“Kimchi [epitomizes] Korean food: It’s bold, it’s strong and there’s a lot of flavor to it.

When you see kimchi, you just see that as Korean food, because Korean food is not plain: It’s salty, it’s spicy, it’s pungent. Don’t be afraid of it – just try it!” –Jayeon “Debbie” Kim, chef, Debbie’s Kitchen KC in Kansas City

The Key to Making Kimchi Fermentation, at the most basic level, is the process in which a substance breaks down into a simpler substance, usually with the aid of bacteria, mold or yeast. Lacto-fermentation – the process that produces kimchi as well as dill pickles, yogurt and sour beers – uses the live bacteria Lactobacillus to convert sugars naturally present in fruits and vegetables into lactic acid. A natural preservative, lactic acid helps fight bad bacteria and preserves not only the flavor and texture of food but also its nutrients.

It might sound complicated, but making kimchi at home is actually quite simple:

Brine ,

First, soak the base vegetable in salted water (a 15 percent salt solution is standard) overnight.

This allows the vegetable to fully absorb the following flavors.

. Flavor

Next, create a paste to coat the vegetable. The most basic version combines garlic, ginger, gochugaru (Korean chile flakes), fish sauce and soy sauce.

Ferment ,

Finally, drain the vegetable (reserving the brine) and coat it with the paste. Pack it into an airtight container and cover it with reserved brine. Seal container and leave to ferment at room temperature for 2 to 3 days, adding more brine as needed to keep the vegetable covered. After the allotted time, the kimchi is ready to eat, or you can put it in the refrigerator to continue fermenting and

“Kimchi, at various stages, pairs with different foods,” says Cosmo Kwon, owner of Bawi Korean BBQ in Springfield, Missouri. Fresh kimchi pairs particularly well with steamed pork or your favorite style of eggs, for example. As it continues to ferment in the fridge, it will get funkier – the vegetable will get softer and the flavor profile will become more sour. But that’s how David Choi, chef-owner of Seoul Taco, which operates several locations across Missouri and Illinois, likes it. “Sometimes it does get a little too old, where it might have a little too much of a punch. You can offset that with sugar, but I think, definitely, the [funkier] the better for me.”

The well-fermented, sour kimchi that Choi enjoys sings in dishes such as kimchi jjigae (kimchi stew), kimchi jeon (kimchi pancakes) and mandu (dumplings).

see how the flavor profile evolves.

A word to the wise: Kimchi can get stinky, even in the fridge, so make sure the containers are sealed tightly and consider using activated charcoal as a deodorizer. “I remember, when I was a kid, my mom would be very, very careful about storing kimchi in the refrigerator because it has such a pungent odor,” says So. “It can kind of stain the flavors of other dishes in the refrigerator if you don’t store it properly.”

Kimchi Jjigae “Every Korean household has its own recipe for kimchi jjigae,” says Choi. “We typically use fatty pork, like pork belly, and render that down a little bit and use that for our broth, but a lot of families use anchovy broth. You could use either one, and then try to use the funkiest kimchi. [Whether homemade or store-bought], the more aged kimchi makes it way better – I prefer kimchi that has been fermenting for at least two weeks, for it to have that sour taste to it.”

Recipe by David Choi, chef-owner, Seoul Taco serves 2 to 4

8

2

8 ½ to 1

3

1 2 to 3

oz pork belly, cubed cups kimchi oz tofu, cubed cup liquid from kimchi container cups water gochugaru, to taste Tbsp gochujang (optional) scallions, sliced

/ preparation / In a medium pot over medium-high heat, cook pork belly through, approximately 5 minutes. Increase heat to high and add kimchi; sear, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and add tofu, liquid from kimchi container and water; cook, 10 to 15 minutes. Add gochugaru and gochujang, if using; cover and cook, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes.

Remove from heat and add scallions. Serve with a side of white rice. / a pr i l 2 02 1

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Beyond the Cabbage Besides the classic napa cabbage kimchi, other versions include:

Kale

Napa cabbage is the most common base for kimchi, but chefs and home cooks alike use all kinds of vegetables and fruits for the fermented favorite. “There are so many different types of kimchi,” says Cosmo Kwon. “You might not like napa cabbage, but you might like the radish version. You might not like spicy versions at all; [then] there’s a white version [which has a lighter, crisper, more refreshing profile without the heat]. We can’t just group all kimchi together, and I would love to see more people get curious and ask questions, [then] try different [types] and see what they might like. Especially for those of us who are living in the Midwest and operating Korean restaurants, we would love to offer different types; it’s just that we wish that the demand was there. Just give it a try. Take that first step and see if you like it.”

Bok choy

Pineapple

Brussels sprout

Radish

At Smoke N Seoul in Gardner, Kansas, chef-owner Greg Stears combines Kansas City barbecue and Korean flavors, topping pork belly tacos with housemade mango kimchi, for instance. The mango kimchi features that signature sourness with a little spiciness, but it also brings some sweetness to the dish. Stears starts by chopping and brining unripe mangoes and then ferments them with a fairly traditional chileginger paste. After a few days, the mangoes have softened and become a perfect accoutrement to the smoked pork belly, onion straws, guacamole sauce and gochujang mayonnaise nestled inside warm corn tortillas.

Carrot

Scallion

Cucumber

Turnip

Green bean

White pear

Stears, who grew up in Kansas City, fell in love with Korean flavors thanks to his wife, a second-generation Korean American from Queens, New York. “Barbecue, especially Kansas City barbecue, has a deep, meaty, umami flavor to it, but it doesn’t, a lot of times, have that tang, that crunch,” he says. “You see a lot of [barbecue] sandwiches with pickles on them – that’s what we’re adding [with the mango kimchi], just in a different flavor profile. The kimchi provides a good contrast to the rich flavors of the barbecue, and people really enjoy it. [Kimchi] is a lot more versatile than you might think. Get creative with it. There are so many different ways you can use it.”

In Korea, kimchi also varies by region. In Jeonju, which is considered the food capital of South Korea, kimchi is made with fish sauce for a stronger flavor. In the southeast, kimchi is often brinier thanks to the addition of salted anchovies, and along the northeast coast, it even features fresh oysters – which Kwon says is definitely an acquired taste. In the northwest province of Hwanghae, residents skip the chile flakes and favor pumpkin as the base. On the other hand, if you love heat, look to the southern regions for the spiciest varieties of all.

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31

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33

Melanie Meyer fully realizes that she could buy

person every staffer wanted to see. She jokes that

premade rice cakes to make her tteokbokki. Readily

this is because she didn’t pay attention to portion

available at any number of international markets

control and heaped everyone’s plates full of food, but

around St. Louis, the labor-intensive cakes that

really, it was because people saw that she took the

serve as the base of the popular stir-fried Korean

time and care to make even hospital food special.

street food take her hours to make – a significant investment of time and energy that could be easily

Though Meyer dabbled in other industries, she kept

eliminated by switching to a packaged product

coming back to the professional kitchen, working

that would likely not register with even her most

everywhere from fast-food spots to Vietnamese

discerning customers.

restaurants to high-end steakhouses. However, she considers The Restaurant at The Cheshire

Yet for Meyer, such a move would be unthinkable.

(now known as Boundary) to be the first legitimate cooking job she ever had, and one where she was

“It’s really important to me to make them, because

ill-prepared for the demands of its kitchen. Still, she

it’s about connecting to people in the culture who

didn’t let that stop her. In fact, it only fueled her to

took time to create this [dish] and paying respect to

work harder.

that,” explains Meyer. “On top of that, I am learning as I go. It’s something that is very intense for me

Ben Welch, formerly of Big Baby Q and Smokehouse

personally, but it’s also good for me to learn these

and The Midwestern Meat and Drink and then-sous

certain techniques and other recipes. It’s important

chef at The Restaurant at The Cheshire, noticed

not just to [be able to] say that I did it, but because I

Meyer’s tenacity right off the bat, nicknaming her

believe there should be a deep connection with the

“Tiny Chef” as a way to capture her energetic yet

food you create.”

no-nonsense attitude in the kitchen. Not at all diminutive, he meant the name as a compliment for

For Meyer, finding that connection to Korean food

the way she ferociously attacked cooking and her

goes deeper than simply wanting to express her

fearlessness in putting herself out there.

appreciation for the culture. As the owner of Tiny Chef, a micro restaurant located inside The Silver

“Melanie was just hungry – passionate, hungry and

Ballroom, a pinball bar in South St. Louis, Meyer

she had questions,” says Welch. “She was one of

has spent the past two years exploring her Korean

those people who, if you give them a job, they have

heritage through the food she creates. Having

their mind focused on mastering that job. What I like

come to Missouri from Korea when she was just an

about her most is that she wants to win. She’d come

infant, food has become one of the few windows

in early, stay late and would never tell you something

Meyer has into developing a full picture of who she

wasn’t her job. She’d do it because she wanted

is – something that had been lacking until her recent

to learn, and she attacked cooking like she really

exploration.

wanted it. You had to respect the hustle.”

In fact, there was a time when Meyer was not only

Meyer soaked up every bit of knowledge she could

disinclined toward understanding the Korean part

in every kitchen she worked – and even ones she

of her identity; she outright buried it. Growing up

didn’t. Her longtime friend, former bandmate and

the adopted daughter of white parents, and as the

current assistant general manager at Brasserie,

only person of Asian heritage in a primarily white

Catlin O’Toole, recalls the barbecue fundraisers

neighborhood, Meyer felt out of place and was

Meyer would hold at South Grand bar CBGB, where

even bullied for being Korean. From name-calling

people would clamor for a taste of her cooking. She

to demands that she tell people “where she was

watched the joy Meyer would get from sharing food

really from,” Meyer hated that she was seen as

with people, so it was no surprise to her that, when

different and desperately wanted to fit in. Her home

it came time for her to begin her journey of self-

life did not make things any easier, compounding

discovery, cooking was a major catalyst.

her feelings of being an outsider with those of worthlessness. Adrift and unsure of who she was,

“I think that after our band broke up, she was soul-

Meyer dealt with depression and low self-worth,

searching in a way,” says O’Toole. “I think she was

knowing that there was more to who she was yet

feeling like she didn’t have an identity, because her

unable to actualize it.

family life was not great and she didn’t have the band; I feel like she was trying to find herself. Food

Written by Cheryl Baehr Photography by sekondtry 34

feastmagazine.com / a pr i l 2 0 2 1

It’s no surprise that food became that vehicle for

has always been her go-to for how she shares with

understanding her identity. Meyer has only been

people, and she is super generous and giving, so that

cooking Korean food for the past few years, but she’s

was part of her finding herself, coming into her own

been working in kitchens for almost two decades. Her

and becoming her own person. After she opened Tiny

first job was as a cook at a hospital cafeteria, where

Chef and started doing what she loves, it was like she

she quickly developed a reputation for being the

found a part of herself.”

Melanie Meyer serves Korean street food from a window inside The Silver Ballroom, a pinball bar in St. Louis; char siu pork tacos; bibimbap with beef bulgogi; cheesy Carbo Noodles

/ a pr i l 2 02 1

35

But if her friends and colleagues were

red chiles, sesame oil and kimchi, she turns

confident in the inevitability of Meyer’s

a traditionally Middle Eastern staple into a

success, she was less so. After an attempt

Korean-inflected masterpiece. That she feels

to start Tiny Chef as a catering operation

free to explore traditional Korean cuisine while

never really got off the ground, Meyer was

applying it to dishes not reflexively thought of

presented with an opportunity to open the

as Korean is not just creative; it’s biographical.

restaurant as part of a partnership with then-partner and Party Bear Pizza owner

Simone Faure, owner of La Patisserie

Chris Ward at The Silver Ballroom. She was

Chouquette, sees Meyer as a masterful

tentative and also unconvinced that Korean

storyteller with food. Over the past year, the

food was the way to go. She considered doing

two have become close friends, bonding over

sandwiches, soups or salads before realizing

a shared love of Korean cuisine and culture,

that this was the chance she’d been waiting

and Faure has watched as Meyer has grown

for, and she dove headfirst into creating a

into a confident woman with a strong sense

menu of dishes inspired by the heritage she

of who she is. She feels you can taste this in

was only beginning to understand.

her friend’s dishes, and that’s why people have responded so tremendously to Tiny Chef.

“At first, I felt like I was just going along for a ride and that nobody would want kimchi

“I feel like what I taste in her food is love,” says

or char siu pork or tteokbokki,” says Meyer.

Faure. “You can tell she cares about every

“I remember someone telling me not to do

ingredient and is pushing herself but is not

vegetables because people around here don’t

denying that she is American. You see all these

like vegetables. I was already scared to do

Midwestern influences in her food, and it’s a

Korean food, then I was also scared because

beautiful marriage. You’re given gifts from your

the majority of my menu is vegetables. When

ancestors; somebody was whispering into her

it took off, I was really surprised. It gave me

ear to pick up the baton. Not everyone hears

the confidence to keep pushing forward.”

this, but she heard the call and picked it up.”

The positive response she’s received has

Meyer dreams that she will connect with

emboldened Meyer to delve even deeper into

her heritage even more poignantly than

Korean cuisine, and she continues to add new

through Tiny Chef. An active member of a

dishes to her repertoire through her unending

Korean-American adoptee Facebook group,

research and experimentation. Tiny Chef

Meyer regularly interacts with others whose

still serves its staple vegan kimchi, bibimbap

shared experiences continue to propel her

bowls and Korean-inspired street tacos,

in her own search. Though she has big plans

but Meyer also has a rotation of specials

for the restaurant – expanding her offerings

that continue to push her knowledge and

and perhaps opening a place of her own

technique. She’s developed a cult following

one day – her number one goal is to return

for her bracingly hot Nuclear Noodles, her

to Korea to explore the country’s culinary

cheesy Carbo Noodles and her Chicken Soup

scene in-person. By staging in restaurants,

for the Seoul. The runaway hit, however, has

experiencing the street food firsthand and

been her monthly Korean crab boil, which sells

soaking up as much as she can, Meyer feels

out every time she runs it.

that going back to the country that she doesn’t remember, but somehow feels homesick for,

Meyer puts her whole heart into her cooking,

will be completing the circle for her. She also

something that’s evident even if you didn’t

hopes to answer real questions about who she

know her story. Her char siu pork belly, for

is by finding the orphanage she came from and

instance, is revelatory. Stuffed into a humble

finding her birth family. Then, she feels like

street taco or added as the protein to a

the full picture of what Tiny Chef is – and more

variety of dishes, the melt-in-the-mouth meat

importantly, who she is – will come into focus.

has the easy comfort of sticky soy glaze with the depth of anise, Chinese five spice and

“By some miracle, I’d find them,” says Meyer.

peppercorns. Her kimchi fried rice is equally

“My ultimate dream would be to find them,

complex thanks to gochugaru, which provides

cook a meal for them and show them that this

a funky backbeat for the piquant kimchi. Even

is what I have learned and have had it inside

something as simple as hummus becomes

of me the whole time. I just needed something

magical with Meyer’s touch. Enlivened with

to light the fire.”

36

feastmagazine.com / a pr i l 2 0 2 1

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37

Tteokbokki (spicy stir-fried rice cakes)

“The way I’ve experienced street food in Korea is through the little convenience stores that I’d always go to after school, starting when I was in grade school.

They always sell tteokbokki and fish cake soup. You grow up with tteokbokki, so you’re really familiar with it from a young age. It’s really affordable and fresh. Even in middle school and high school, you always go eat tteokbokki after school, so it has a lot of memories. The rice cake itself doesn’t have much taste, just texture – it has a really good chewiness – but the gochujang sauce gives it a really good bite. We call it a spicy rice cake, but it has a sweetness to it too because of the gochujang – which is spicy and a little sweet at the same time – and the gochugaru. At K-Bop, we serve it with a sauce made with fish cakes and a small amount of vegetables, including onions, carrots and green onions. And actually, in Korea now, it’s getting very popular to add cheese to a lot of dishes, so tteokbokki with cheese is very popular. If you put some cheese on the dish, it makes the spiciness milder, and I also think Korean gochujang goes very well with the cheese.” –Hye Keeley, K-Bop, St. Louis photo by jennifer silverberg

Korean Fried Chicken “Initially, when fried chicken was introduced to Korea, it was through the American troops that were stationed there during the war. Americans would have a bunch of stalls selling traditional fried chicken, and the Koreans started catching onto that and doing their own version.

They started making the dish more bite-size, more accessible. The wings are cut in half where the wings meet the drum, but it’s definitely bone-in. It’s also gonna have more of a sauce on it than American fried chicken – initially, Koreans came up with this version, which is now known as Korean fried chicken, because they noticed customers having a hard time with the hard-fried, crunchy parts of the chicken, so they added a wet sauce on it. The sauce is always gonna have a little bit of sugar, a little heat, soy sauce and garlic – Koreans love garlic.

You heat it in the pan so it caramelizes and then toss it in that sauce. At Kobi-Q, we use my mom’s recipe, which is a common Korean recipe with sugar, soy sauce, lots of garlic, gochugaru and scallions, which are such a key ingredient in Korean cooking. In Korea, fried chicken is also typically served with pickled daikon. We don’t do it at our restaurant, per se, but it is typically served like that as opposed to with just rice.”

–Mila Lee, Kobi-Q, Kansas City photo by christopher smith

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W

hether you’re

grabbing a skewer while making your way through a crowded night market or gathered under a pojangmacha (outdoor tent) with some spicy tteokbokki and a shot of soju, street food is a cornerstone of Korean culture. Fast, cheap and bursting with flavor, these dishes are designed to be eaten on the go, and they bring all walks of life together to gather at the carts, stalls and walkup windows lining the streets. And for many who grew up in the country, street food reminds them of their roots. “I probably speak for every Korean: When we think of those items, it feels like home,” says Keeyoung Kim, chef-owner of Kansas City’s Sura Eats. “There’s a hominess to it.” Here, Kim and four other local restaurant owners suggest a few dishes to start your Korean street food quest. –Kasey Carlson

Mandu

(Korean dumplings)

“What sets mandu apart from other Asian dumplings is the filling.

The wrappers that different countries use for their potstickers or dumplings (in Korea, we call them mandu pee, which means dumpling wrappers) will vary, too. Most notably for Korean culture, we use a lot of japchae, stir-fried sweet potato glass noodles, to fill our mandu, and I think that’s probably one of the biggest differentiators. It doesn’t add much flavor, but it acts as a great filler and also adds some texture to the dumplings. The ones I grew up eating – and have seen at street stalls – have pork, scallions, mushrooms and sweet potato glass noodles as the main ingredients. Other variations have tofu and kimchi as well. Our version at Sura Eats is slightly different but based on those; we also use pork and green onions. We have a pork and kimchi mandu that we do from time to time, and then we have a tofu one that has similar ingredients. We serve ours boiled and deep-fried, just for that added crunch.” –Keeyoung Kim, Sura Eats, Kansas City photo by anna petrow

Uhmook

(fish cakes)

“People hear ‘fish cake’ and it doesn’t sound very appetizing, but it actually doesn’t taste like fish at all. Uhmook does feature fish, but not straight fish – it’s minced to the point that you probably wouldn’t know it was fish unless someone told you. Then you add salt, water, a little bit of flour, potato starch and a little bit of egg to form it into the fish cake. It’s served with a broth made with a little bit of white and green onion and carrots, which adds a depth of flavor. The fish cake is usually served on a stick, and at every place I’ve tried it, it’s served inside the broth, which allows it to absorb a lot of that broth flavor. It’s chewy yet soft and savory when you drink it with the broth, which is very light yet hearty at the same time. You know how there are some tastes you cannot describe? You just have to try uhmook.”

–Terry Lee, Sides of Seoul, St. Louis photo by jennifer silverberg

Korean Hot Dogs “When we decided to open Ssong’s Hotdog, we thought about what was missing when it comes to Korean food in Kansas City, and it occurred to me that there wasn’t anyone specializing in Korean hot dogs, which are closer to American corn dogs. I don’t necessarily remember when I first tried one, but Korean hot dogs are one of the things I always got whenever I passed a food cart, and they’re still one of my favorite foods. They’re crispier than the American version – the outside is more like a bread crumb coating, which gives the dish a little more crunchiness.

There are also different varieties of hot dogs stuffed with cheese, kimchi, noodles and so on before they’re breaded. At Ssong’s, I’m most excited about serving kimchi hot dogs and japchae hot dogs, just because those are fillings that people don’t expect. It’s usually a really cheap snack in Korea – if you’re walking by and you’re hungry, it’s something you can get quickly.”

–David Ahn, Ssong’s Hotdog, Kansas City photo courtesy of ssong's hotdog

/ a pr i l 2 02 1

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to

Banchan, which translates to “side dishes” in Korean, aren’t just part of the meal – they make the meal.

Here, St. Louis chef Hana Chung, who was born in Seoul, South Korea, and moved to the U.S. as a baby, shares a few of her favorite recipes – and what they mean to her.

As told to Heather Riske / Photography by Paige McDonald

For me, Korean food is about the spread.

At every Korean dining table, you’ll always have rice and you’ll always have a soup, but then all the side dishes, known as banchan, might be different. For instance, if I went to my uncle’s house, the side dishes might be different depending on where he lives, what part of Korea he’s from and what he likes, and then the side dishes at my house might be different out of convenience or taste. For me, the spread is what Korean food is. It’s not about one dish; it’s about eating many dishes at the same time.

And with Korean food, it’s all about balance – you can’t just have a salty meat and not have a refreshing pickle or something to contrast with that flavor. Korean food is about making different combinations to achieve that balance, and that’s where banchan comes in. Korean barbecue is a great example: You have your warm rice, your salty meat, a little crunch from some sweet-style pickles and maybe some soy-braised black beans. When you eat it all together, it’s the perfect bite. Yes, of course you can eat all of those things individually, but together it’s just so much better. And that’s just how Korean people eat – a little bit of this, a little bit of that – because we want all the nuances when we’re eating. We want that soft, we want that crunchy, we want that sweet, we want that sour.

I like to say that Korean food is a hug from the inside. And it’s funny to see it starting to become more popular in the U.S. – it’s kind of a double-edged sword. At Indo, chef-owner Nick Bognar, chef de cuisine Mark Silva and I talk about this a lot because we have very similar upbringings: Growing up as Asian Americans, we got made fun of a lot. My mom used to make me these awesome lunches, and I remember throwing them away because I was so embarrassed; kids would just relentlessly make fun of me and ask, “Why does this smell that way?” And those same kids that used to make fun of me now think this food is so amazing – which it is – but they just hopped on the train too late. I think it’s great that Korean, Japanese and Filipino cuisines are inching their way through the mainstream, but it’s a double-edged sword because sometimes people aren’t taking it one step further to find out more about what they’re eating. What if someone had never had Korean food and they go eat that Shake Shack chicken sandwich and they think that’s what represents Korean food? It’s exciting that it’s becoming more mainstream now – everyone should be able to taste the flavors of Korea, because it’s delicious. But if we’re going to do it, let’s do it right.

The following recipes are a good start. These are very basic everyday side dishes that I personally eat and make at home. These dishes are simple and best eaten with warm rice, and a lot of the vegetables used here can be replaced with other vegetables based on the season. The great thing about Korean food is that the base for the seasoning will be the same, and then you just change out the main vegetables, which makes Korean food a lot easier and more versatile. A lot of Korean side dishes are also made in bulk and then fermented for even more depth of flavor – the serving sizes for these recipes are a little larger so you can enjoy the dishes in all of their different stages. / a pr i l 2 02 1

41

A slightly sweet salt-pickled beef dish that’s served cold, jangjorim was a childhood favorite of mine – and I still love it. Serve it with ramyun (Korean-style instant ramen), a warm bowl of rice or even potato salad.

Jangjorim (Soy-Braised Beef)

Serves 4 to 6

1

10

1

5 10 to 15

¾

1

2

5

lb flank steak cloves garlic, divided 1½-inch piece ginger, peeled cups water shishito peppers cup soy sauce Tbsp rice wine vinegar Tbsp sugar hard-boiled eggs, peeled

/ preparation / In a large pot over high heat, bring beef, 5 cloves garlic, ginger and water to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer, 1 hour. Skim surface residue and discard garlic and ginger. Add remaining garlic, peppers, soy sauce, vinegar and sugar; bring mixture to a boil and then remove from heat. Transfer beef to a clean cutting board; reserve other ingredients and liquid in pot. Cut beef into eight pieces; place beef in a jar with the contents of the pot and eggs.

Keep stored in refrigerator for up to two weeks.

Radish kimchi reminds me of picnics and school trips when I lived in L.A. It has the familiar flavors of napa kimchi but with a crunch, and it’s the perfect side dish for kimbap or for galbitang on a cold night.

Kkakdugi (Radish Kimchi)

Serves 10

5 2 2 4 3 1 ½ 5 1

lb Korean radish, cut into ¾-inch cubes Tbsp salt Tbsp sugar, divided cups gochugaru (Korean chile flakes) Tbsp minced garlic tsp minced ginger cup sliced scallions, cut on the bias Tbsp salted anchovy sauce or fish sauce Tbsp pear purée (optional)

/ preparation / In a medium bowl, toss radish with salt and 1 tablespoon sugar. Let sit, 1 hour. Stir in gochugaru; let sit, 30 minutes. Add remaining ingredients; toss to incorporate.

42

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Mul kimchi, also known as sweet kimchi, is so underrated.

It’s very refreshing and not spicy; it’s more of a cold soupstyle kimchi that’s best eaten with noodles on a hot summer day. My mom likes to add some pine nuts for crunch and a splash of Sprite when serving for some extra carbonation.

Mul Kimchi (Sweet Kimchi)

Serves 8 to 10 ¼ ¼ 12 4 2 3 1 5 1 1 1

cup salt cup sugar cups water cups bite-size pieces napa cabbage cups bite-size pieces radish stalks scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces pack watercress (optional) cloves garlic, thinly sliced tsp thinly sliced ginger Tbsp gochugaru apple, coarsely chopped splash of Sprite or similar lemon-lime soda

/ preparation / In a glass jar, dissolve salt and sugar in water.

Add cabbage, radish, scallions and watercress, if using. Add garlic, ginger, gochugaru and apple. Seal jar and store in a cool, dark room for one day and then refrigerate for three to four days before serving. Serve with a splash of Sprite or similar lemon-lime soda.

This is a staple side dish in Korea. Many side dishes are made to last a long time, and this recipe is no exception.

If you go to any Korean restaurant, I’m sure a version of this will be on the table.

Myulchi Bokkeum (Walnut Anchovies)

This set of side dishes all use the same cooking technique, and you can easily sub in carrots, zucchini, radishes or other vegetables. These banchan are commonly used in rice bowls, bibimbap, Korean barbecue spreads and everyday meals.

Seasoned Bean Sprouts

Serves 4

2

2

¼

¼

2

cups bean sprouts Tbsp chopped scallions tsp minced garlic tsp salt tsp sesame oil sesame seeds, to taste

/ preparation / Blanch bean sprouts in water with a pinch of salt, approximately 10 minutes. Drain. In a bowl, combine scallions, garlic, salt and sesame oil; add bean sprouts and toss to incorporate. Garnish with sesame seeds.

Seasoned Cucumbers

Serves 4

4

1

1

1

seedless cucumbers Tbsp salt, plus more as needed sesame oil, as needed tsp minced garlic Tbsp chopped scallions sesame seeds, to taste

/ preparation / Wash cucumbers in salt water. Cut crosswise into ¹⁄₈-inch slices; season with salt. Let sit, at least 10 minutes. Rinse and squeeze out excess liquid. Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add cucumber and garlic; sauté, 5 minutes. Remove from heat and add scallions.

Season with salt to taste. Garnish with sesame seeds.

Seasoned Spinach

Serves 4 to 6

Serves 4

1 1 1

8

1

¼

2

1

vegetable oil, as needed cup dried small anchovies cup walnuts, chopped Tbsp honey, corn syrup or rice syrup sesame seeds, to taste

/ preparation / In a medium saucepan, heat vegetable oil over medium heat. Add anchovies; sauté, 5 to 6 minutes. Add walnuts; cook until walnuts are toasted, 3 to 4 minutes. Add honey; cook, 3 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. Garnish with sesame seeds.

oz fresh spinach Tbsp chopped scallions tsp minced garlic tsp sesame seeds salt, to taste tsp sesame oil

/ preparation / Blanch spinach in water with a pinch of salt, 1 minute. Drain and squeeze out excess water. In a bowl, combine spinach and remaining ingredients.

TASTE THE BEST Hermann, MO · StoneHillWinery.com / a pr i l 2 02 1

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COOK WITH Check out all of our new Cooking School classes like Meet The Maker, Cooking With The Blues, Local Chef Series, Book & Cook for parents and kids and classes based on recipes in Simply Schnucks magazine.

Plus, we still have favorites like our Feast With Feast Magazine and Wine and Bourbon dinners!

Sign up for a class today! schnucks.com/cookingschool

©2021 Schnucks

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