December 2020 Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture

/

MIDWEST

THE

INNOVATORS ISSUE

DECEMBER 2020

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special section

HOLIDAY HAPPENINGS 6 Ideas for Making the

BY AUBREY BYRON

Most of the Holiday Season

L

ike many milestones of 2020, the holidays might look a little different this year. But that doesn’t mean you can’t find some holiday cheer. Here are a few ways for your family to celebrate while maintaining social distance. Just be sure to remember your mask.

1 SEE THE HOLIDAY LIGHTS

Experts agree that outside is safer than inside when it comes to avoiding transmission of COVID-19, so if you’re looking for a fun activity for the kids, a way to get together with close friends or just a romantic night out of the house, holiday light shows could be the perfect experience.

Festive light shows can be found around St. Louis at the Garden Glow at Missouri Botanical Garden, AnheuserBusch Brewery or Zoo Wild Lights. While limited capacity, masks and outdoors will help people stay safe; those wanting extra safety can try drive-through light events like at Grant’s Farm or Winter Wonderland in Tilles Park.

2 FIND A POP-UP SHOP

Pop-up shops can be a fun way to check gift shopping off the list, find creative décor and make sure your holiday spending stays local. Pop ups like the Holiday Cheers Market by Old Bakery Beer Co. in Alton, Illinois, are providing a place for local vendors to share their wares in a socially distanced space. Masks are required, and no consumption of food or drink will be available in the vendor area.

3 ATTEND A VIRTUAL COOKING CLASS

Many of us are feeling Zoom fatigue by now, but an online cooking class could help give you a new recipe to make the season extra special. Schnucks Cooking School has virtual classes on everything from baking bread with kids to Feast’s partner series Quick Fix, which features Green Chili Strata.

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4 GO FOR A SKATE

There is nothing that says “Winter Wonderland” quite like ice skating. The iconic Steinberg Skating Rink at Forest Park is the largest outdoor rink in the area. With plenty of space to distance and limited capacity, they will be open as always this year with masks required.

5 EXPERIENCE WONDER

Parents have had a difficult year, and this holiday season threatens to be no better. But there are still ways to safely entertain the kids and instill that sense of holiday wonder.

The Polar Express Train Ride at Union Station will look a little different this year (the train will be stationary and capacity will be limited) but for those venturing out, the walk-through event should be no less magical. For families staying in, a virtual reading of A Christmas Carol by some of St. Louis’ own top actors and celebrities might be a great way to remember what the season is all about.

6 GRAB A DRINK

Holiday spirit isn’t just for kids (or at all when actual spirits are involved); adults can also get in on the fun! St. Louis’ favorite holiday pop-up bars are back this year to spread cheer, even if there are a few more stipulations. Miracle

by Small Change and Sippin’ Santa by Planter’s House will have all the holiday-centric cocktails you can dream of. Just be sure to check their website for details and instructions. Reservations and masks required.

special section

Celebrating Safely So much of the joy of the holidays is about coming together with loved ones, breaking bread and feeling the warmth of each other’s presence after a long year. Unfortunately, with the spread of COVID-19, many of our favorite aspects of the season might not be possible or safe. Here are some tips for how best to safely enjoy the holidays.

One of the ways to stay safe is to limit activities and gatherings to only your household whenever possible. The smaller the group, the lesser the risk of exposure. This can be difficult at a time of year that is all about gathering, but it is the safest way to make sure everyone has a healthy holiday. If seeing more than your household, try to limit the group to a small number, practice safe social distancing, wear masks and stay outdoors whenever weather allows.

According to the CDC, the virus spreads much more easily indoors, so wear a mask at all times if visiting inside. Opening a window and creating airflow can also help mitigate the spread. Avoiding potluck-style dinners and shared meals, which are common this time of year, will help reduce crosscontamination as well.

Always be aware of who may be most at-risk. And remember, while physical presence is ideal, there are other ways to spend the holidays together while apart. Technology makes it easier to see loved ones even when not in the same room (or even state).

Some people have found ways to get creative by visiting with grandparents and opening presents from outside the window.

While it’s hard to take these temporary precautions, it’s important we all do what’s best to make sure we can celebrate for many more seasons to come.

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Inspired Local Food Culture /

midwest

december

2020

Volume 10 / Issue 11 Publisher

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

general manager

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com managing editor

Susan Eckert, seckert@laduenews.com 314.269.8838

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com

Special projects coordinator

assistant editor

Aubrey Byron, abyron@feastmagazine.com

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

Jenny Vergara

FEAST TV producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

St. Louis Contributing Editor

Mabel Suen

Contact Us

fact checker

35

Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

Karen Parkman Proofreader

Alecia Humphreys

2020 industry innovators

Distribution

Contributing Writers

Julia Calleo, Tessa Cooper, Gabrielle DeMichele, Kala Elkinton, Amanda Elliott, April Fleming, Teresa Floyd, Hilary Hedges, Rogan Howitt, Liz Miller, Claire Porter, JC Sandt, Jenn Tosatto, Shannon Weber

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Rich Hudson for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at rhudson@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Meet the people pushing the food-anddrink industry forward, effecting positive change and advocating for racial equity, economic justice, food security and more in our communities.

ART Art Director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers

Brandon Alms, Jordan Bauer, Zach Bauman, Keith Borgmeyer, Julia Calleo, Tessa Cooper, Teresa Floyd, George Mitchell, Pilsen Photo Co-op, Amy Ray, Matt Seidel, Jennifer Silverberg, Kim Wade, Cheryl Waller

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright Š 2010-2020 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

on the cover 2020 Industry Innovators by Jordan Bauer, Zach Bauman, Keith Borgmeyer, Pilsen Photo Co-op and Amy Ray table of contents Dave Johnson, owner of Broadway Diner in Columbia, Missouri, by Keith Borgmeyer

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feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 0

/ 11 / healthy appetite Celery root and parsnip latkes

/ 20 / mystery shopper

Bottarga

/ 12 / ONE INGREDIENT 3 ways Candy canes

/ 22 / the dish Butternut squash soup

/ 14 / on trend

Ghost kitchens

/ 23 / ONE ON ONE

Alice Oh of The Press Coffee & Juice Bar

/ 16 / the mix El Mezcalero / 17 / One on One Cherven Desauguste of Mesob Restaurant & Rhum Bar

/ 24 / sugar rush Linzer cookies / 26 / quick fix Green chile strata

/ 18 / shop here Jums African Market

/ 27 / culinary library Rexroy Scott of Jamaican Jerk Hut

/ 19 / midwest made Marshmallows

/ 28 / crash course Sugar

OH, WHAT FUN IT IS. toast life

THE AMERICAN RESERVE

c e l e b r at e r e s p o n s i b ly

CHAZ ON THE PLAZA

Dine-In • Carryout • Delivery January 8 - 17 Presented by

•

KCRestaurantWeek.com Platinum Sponsors

J. Rieger & Co. Robert Mondavi Family Wines Photos by Pilsen Photo Co-op

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7

Letter

from the

Publisher

PHOTOGR APHY BY paige mcdonald

I have been busy in the kitchen, developing recipes for our ongoing seasonal cooking video series. Look for the six-video installment In the Spirit, featuring recipes infused with wine, beer and spirits, on feastmagazine.com.

I

t feels as if I hear it almost every day: This is an unprecedented year.

We’ve ridden the ups and downs of 2020 together as a society, and just about every single one of us has had to absorb more than a few blows.

But the culinary industry has absorbed more than most – it’s been one of the industries most deeply impacted by the pandemic.

As gathering places and community spaces, restaurants, bars and cafés are critical touch points for our communities, and because they are places where people gather and talk, they have been among the hardest hit when social-distancing restrictions have been put in place.

As I write this, new restrictions are about to hit St. Louis County at midnight.

Earlier this year, when I wrote my April letter, the first round of restrictions was just beginning. Now, more than seven months later, it’s happening again, and the industry is holding its collective breath to see what the winter has in store for us.

Typically, our December issue is a celebration of the best new restaurants that have opened up over the past year. And while there have been a number of restaurants and other culinary businesses that have opened their doors – 8

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 0

a bright spot in an otherwise very dark time – we decided, like so many other businesses this year, to pivot. This month, we are shining a spotlight on the people who are finding ways to adapt and grow during this tumultuous period with our annual list of the culinary industry’s innovators. You will meet people who have found an opportunity to make a positive impact on their community, people who have found entrepreneurial opportunities, people who have found ways to shift their business models – and they are all nothing short of inspiring.

Believe it or not, we will get through this time. There is light at the end of this very long tunnel, as evidenced by the work of this year’s Industry Innovators.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville

publisher@feastmagazine.com

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PROMOTION

CHERISHED MEMORIES AND LESSONS LEARNED IN THE KITCHEN Nothing gets me into the holiday spirit like spending time baking in my kitchen. From the time I can remember, I’ve been standing on my tippy toes or propped up on a stool helping my mom prepare goodies for our holiday celebrations. My favorite memories come from learning life lessons in the kitchen like when to preheat the oven, only ice the cookies when cooled or the secret to getting just the right amount of cold water added to make the perfect pie crust.

Some of the best lessons learned came from the rare occasions when our creations didn’t turn out. No matter what, my mom always had a smile on her face and usually a back up box of cookies in the cabinet.

WINTER SPICED PLUM TART SERVES 8 1 cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup honey

½ cup whole wheat flour

2 Tbsp fresh orange juice

1 tsp fresh orange zest

1 Tbsp cornstarch

½ tsp salt

1 tsp cinnamon

½ cup cold unsalted butter

½ tsp allspice

2-3 Tbsp ice water

½ tsp ground ginger

2 lbs fresh plums, halved & pitted

PREPARATION Combine both flours, salt, orange zest and butter into a food processor. Pulse until mixture resembles a coarse meal with pea-size lumps. Add in ice cold water 1

I’ve continued this tradition with my girls, always trying to find ways

tablespoon at a time until mixture begins to clump. Remove onto a floured surface

to include them in the holiday preparation. From my own experience,

and roll into ¼ in thick. Place into a 9-inch tart pan and refrigerate for 30 minutes

this time in the kitchen not only taught me how to whip up a quick

or until firm.

pan of brownies, but it also gave me the biggest smiles and best memories of the holidays. A hectic task of preparing dinner and

Meanwhile, mix together plums, honey, orange juice, cornstarch and spices in a

dessert for a large group of people turned into a joyous time spent

medium bowl. Allow to sit 15-30 minutes. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Arrange

with my loved ones.

plums in tart shell skin side down and pour remaining juices over the top of the

This year as I make dessert for our table, I’ll have two little chefs

with foil, baking another 45 minutes or until plums are tender and juices are

helping me measure, mix and roll out crust for a Winter Spiced Plum

slightly thickened. Allow to cool completely and top with powdered sugar.

plums. Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce temperature to 375 degrees. Cover tart

Tart. The combination of sweet, fresh plums and warm cinnamon and allspice will spread holiday cheer throughout the house. Sharing these special moments with my daughters is truly the best gift of the season—the delicious dessert is just an added bonus. Although this sweet treat will disappear quick, the memories made will continue to live on long past the holidays. So as you prepare your holiday meal this year, let your kitchen be a space where lasting memories are made and reminisced for years to come.

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feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 0

SPONSORED CONTENT BY ALLISON PRIMO SCHNUCKS REGISTERED DIETITIAN

HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 ways / on trend / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / the dish / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Latkes, along with other fried foods, are traditionally consumed during Hanukkah to commemorate the oil that burned for eight days when the Maccabees purified and rededicated the Second Temple in Jerusalem in the second century B.C.E. Although they’re typically made with potatoes, latkes are open to interpretation.

During my time as a personal chef in New York, I experimented with different ways of cutting and grating the potatoes to achieve different textures as well as other types of potatoes and assorted root vegetables for varying flavors. This latke recipe omits the potato completely in favor of celery root and apple, which provide earthiness and sweetness, respectively.

Story and recipe by Amanda Elliott, chef-owner, Beet Box in Columbia, Missouri / Photography by kim wade

Celery Root and Parsnip Latkes yields 12 to 14 latkes 1 1 1 1 5 1 1 1

lb celery root, peeled and grated lb parsnips, cleaned and grated medium onion, peeled and grated small apple, grated eggs cup all-purpose flour Tbsp salt tsp freshly ground black pepper grapeseed oil fresh herbs, chopped, for garnish labneh or sour cream, for serving

Think chives, parsley, sage and thyme.

/ preparation / In a medium bowl, combine celery root, parsnip, onion and apple. Add eggs, flour, salt and pepper; stir to incorporate. Heat 3 tablespoons grapeseed oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium high heat. Once oil is hot, add celery root-parsnip mixture to skillet in heaping ¼-cup piles (don’t overcrowd the skillet – depending on its size, you can probably fit three to four latkes); crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip latkes; crisp on the other side, 3 to 4 minutes.

Transfer latkes to a paper towel-lined plate. Continuing to work in batches, repeat process until you’ve used all of the celery root-parsnip mixture. Garnish latkes with fresh herbs and serve warm with labneh or sour cream.

pair with: English Pale Ale

PA I R IT!

Given the sweeter nature of these latkes, the use of English chocolate malt in Schlafly’s Pale Ale makes the beer a good match.

The earthiness of the London yeast complements the subdued root medley while the floral and herbal combination of hops augments the brightness of the onion. Both the exterior of the latkes and the bready body of the beer have a nice crisp bite. –JC Sandt schlafly.com

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HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 ways / on trend / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / the dish / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

yields 24 fortune cookies

White Chocolate-Peppermint Fortune Cookies

1 cup chopped white baking chocolate 24 fortune cookies 3 candy canes, crushed

Ring in the New Year with a sweet surprise. Dipped in white chocolate and then coated with crushed candy canes, these fortune cookies predict a delicious future.

/ preparation / Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Place chocolate in a heatproof bowl. Fill a small saucepan with approximately 1 inch of water; bring to a boil. Lower heat and place bowl on top of saucepan (the bottom of the bowl should not touch the water). Gently but continuously stir chocolate until only a few lumps remain; remove from heat and continue stirring until chocolate is completely melted and smooth. Using your hands, dip half of one fortune cookie in melted chocolate and then roll in crushed candy canes until coated; set on prepared baking sheet. Repeat process with remaining fortune cookies.

Allow to set at room temperature, 1 hour, before serving.

Serves 1

Chocolate-Peppermint Martini Candy Cane Rim 1 egg white 1 candy cane, crushed Chocolate-Peppermint Martini 1½ oz vodka 3 oz chocolate liqueur 2 oz heavy cream 1 oz chocolate syrup ¼ tsp peppermint extract

There’s no better way to get through the beginning of winter than

/ preparation – candy cane rim / Paint a thin line of egg white

with a little festive cheer. This holiday season, especially, I think we can get away with going over the top, so I created three recipes that use candy canes to bring added sweetness and joy to the table. story, recipes and photography by Julia Calleo, writer and recipe developer, mylavenderblues.com

Chocolaty and creamy with a cool, minty finish, this indulgent cocktail fits in well at any holiday party.

around the rim of a Martini glass; roll wet rim in crushed candy canes until coated. Set aside. / preparation – chocolate-peppermint martini / Fill a shaker tin with ice; add all ingredients and shake vigorously until well combined.

Strain mixture into candy cane-rimmed glass and serve.

yields 12 cheesecakes

Featuring buttery chocolate graham cracker crusts and notes of peppermint, these decadent cheesecakes are the perfect size so that no one has to share – unless they want to.

Individual Frozen Peppermint Cheesecakes 3 ¹⁄₃ 1½ 1 1 1 1 3

cups crushed chocolate graham crackers cup melted unsalted butter cups cream cheese cup sweetened condensed milk tsp peppermint extract pinch salt cup heavy cream, whipped candy canes, crushed

/ preparation / Line a 12-cup cupcake pan with cupcake liners. In a small bowl, combine graham crackers and butter.

Add 3 to 4 tablespoons graham cracker mixture to each liner, pushing down with the back of a spoon to create the crusts. In a separate bowl, add cream cheese, condensed milk, peppermint extract and salt; using a hand mixer, beat until smooth. Fold in heavy cream and then evenly distribute mixture into liners. Sprinkle each cheesecake with crushed candy canes and freeze until ready to serve.

12

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HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 ways / on trend / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / the dish / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

As restaurants across the country have pivoted to more casual operations amid the COVID -19 pandemic, many local spots are embracing ghost kitchens. The idea typically involves a restaurant creating a new, virtual concept – including a new name, menu, branding and website – under its own roof. Instead of relying on a traditional dine-in space, food is available for carryout and delivery only, making ghost kitchens a go-to solution for chefs looking to make their menus more approachable in the age of to-go dining.

-Heather Riske

◀ Wing Runner BEAST Butcher & Block is now serving up “dope wings on the fly” through its new ghost kitchen concept, Wing Runner. The acclaimed St. Louis barbecue joint offers a wide variety of wings with chef-driven sauces for pickup and delivery. Wing Runner’s bone-in chicken wings are smoked, deep-fried and then tossed in one of several sauces, which range from the classic – think mild or hot Buffalo, roasted garlic butter and a spicy dry rub – to the creative, such as char siu, habanero jerk, roasted shishito-lime and fish sauce caramel. Vegetarian diners can get in on the fun, too, with cauliflower “wings” topped with those same sauces and garnishes. wingrunnerstl.com photo by george mitchell

14

Sub Division Sandwich Co.

The Post Chicken & Beer

From the team behind Polite Society and The

When Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar reopened after a

The thick, cheesy Detroit-style pizzas from Motor

Bellwether in St. Louis, Sub Division Sandwich Co. – a

monthslong closure due to COVID-19, diners found a new

Town Pizza are a far cry from the health-conscious

lunch concept offering carryout and delivery only –

item alongside its signature fresh seafood: juicy fried

salads, bowls and wraps offered at Revel Kitchen – and

specializes in creative sandwiches named after

chicken. The Post Chicken & Beer now operates out of

that’s exactly the point. For their first ghost kitchen,

iconic movie quotes. “How Am I Funny?” is a tribute

Jax, offering carryout and delivery only. An offshoot of

owners Simon and Angelica Lusky wanted to focus on

to Goodfellas with Volpi salami and capocolla, ham,

Colorado-based The Post Brewing Co., the ghost kitchen

something familiar to customers that could be prepared

pepperoncini, pepper Jack, shaved onion, mixed greens

is a way to test proof of concept for a new location in the

easily with the limited kitchen equipment at their

and roasted garlic aïoli, while “There’s No Place Like

Kansas City area. The short and sweet menu focuses on

Brentwood, Missouri, café. At Motor Town Pizza, which

Home” evokes memories of familial Thanksgiving

buttermilk-brined and pressure-fried chicken available as

offers carryout and delivery within 12 miles, customers

gatherings with confit white and dark meat turkey,

a whole or half bird or four-piece chicken dinner alongside

can build their own pie “Henry Ford-style” or choose a

gravy and herbs, mushroom duxelles, cranberry

classic sides such as hush puppies, bacon-braised collard

signature offering such as Abe Froman’s Ferrari with

sauce, crispy onions and caramelized shallot aïoli.

greens and Anson Mills Cheddar grits.

sausage, brick and smoked Provolone cheese, onion,

subdivisionstl.com

postbrewing.com/kansas-city

sport peppers and giardiniera. motortownpizza.com

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 0

Motor Town Pizza

PROMOTI ON

The Forgotten Fruit: Figs Could be Your Secret to Eating Healthy Through the Winter ADRIATIC

CALIMYRNA

SPONSORED CONTENT BY KATHERINE LEWIS

Prized throughout the Middle East and Mediterranean

value of figs and fiber to help keep regular is a definite

slices between Italy

for their sweet-as-honey taste, figs might not yet

benefit, even above and beyond the contribution of the

and Croatia, and the

enjoy the same popularity in the U.S., but they do bring

other nutrients.”

The Adriatic Sea

Distinctive for their large size and nutty flavor, Calimyrna figs

adjacent land can

a surprising number of health benefits to just about

be hilly, rocky and

any meal. Dr. Graham Colditz, associate director of

Figs are famously sweet, but don’t let their sugar content

windy — so these

prevention and control at Siteman Cancer Center,

dissuade you from adding them to your diet. In moderation,

points out that figs are high in vitamin K, vitamin B6,

figs are fabulous. “When you get

Calimyrnas can be

magnesium, manganese and copper. “Vitamin B6, in

your sugar in a fruit like a fig that

enjoyed as a grab-and-

particular, contributes to healthy brain function, while

also has fiber and potassium, you

vitamin K aids blood-clotting and wound-healing,”

get multiple benefits,” Dr. Colditz

he says. “One large fig contains 7 percent of your

says. “But if you’re getting sugar

recommended daily amount of fiber, which means

that’s been added, such as in a

figs are great at regulating your digestive system and

beverage, it’s really just a pot

little figgies are hearty ones. Cut into quarters, they look a bit like wee watermelon wedges, rosy-red flesh surrounded by lime-green skin. With fewer seeds than other types of figs and an

are just as commonly

ones bring a sweet note to all kinds of dishes, from fig bars to cheesecakes to roasted vegetables.

Dr. Graham Colditz

sugar and without the other Figs’ fiber content is particularly important this time

features of the fruit.” Keep in

way to get to know

of year, when many people are eating heavier meals but

mind that a serving size is just a

the fruit.

aren’t moving quite as much — and potentially throwing

single fig, so make it count: Use

Adriatics are a terrific

go snack, and fresh

of water with 20 teaspoons of

decreasing constipation.”

almost berry-like taste,

available fresh as they are dried. Dried

their digestive tracts for a loop. “There’s a high risk of

a fig to sweeten up an already

less exercise because it’s colder, and that can definitely

healthy salad, or pair it with a

exacerbate constipation,” Dr. Colditz says, “so the

savory cheese for dessert.

Associate Director of Prevention and Control at Siteman Cancer Center PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

in good taste BLACK MISSION The most popular figs on

PRESENTED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

KADOTA

Fig Chocolate Spread

To reap all of figs’ health benefits but

this list, black missions are renowned for their

• 1 cup sugar

• 3 Tbsp lemon juice

with less of the sweet

sweetness. They crop

• 1 cup water

• 2 Tbsp cocoa powder

taste, give kadotas a

up as pizza toppings; in

try. These lemon- or

• 8 oz dried mission figs

lime-colored fruits have

appetizers, salads and desserts; and they’re often found alongside cheeses, such as mascarpone and ricotta, which serve as perfect

a subtle, earthy flavor

| Preparation | Heat a saucepan over medium heat. Combine sugar, water, figs, lemon

— easygoing qualities

juice and cocoa powder. Stir and cook for 5 to 7 minutes or until sugar has dissolved.

that make them the

Move figs to food processor using a slotted spoon. Reserve syrup. Add ½ cup syrup to

obvious choice to star in

food processor and process until smooth. Transfer figs back to saucepan. Set heat at

America’s most famous

tangy counterpoints.

low to medium. Stir in the remaining syrup. Cook for another 3 or 4 minutes, or until fully

Black mission figs are

integrated and no syrup remains.

fig newtons. This time of year finds kadotas at the end of their peak

high in fiber and excellent PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

for the digestive system.

Nutrition information (per 2 Tbsp): 100 calories, <1g fat, <1g sodium, 20g carbohydrate,

season, so grab them while you can.

1.4g fiber, 0.4g protein

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HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 ways / on trend / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / the dish / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Named after the people of Oaxaca, Mexico, who distill the agave spirit mezcal,

the easy-to-batch cocktail is an ideal combination of smoke, spice, citrus, bitterness and herbs. In this version, I’ve amped up store-bought falernum – a Caribbean syrup liqueur – with an extra helping of ginger and clove to strengthen its flavor and add more of a seasonal sensation to the drink. The sweetness of the homemade cinnamon syrup balances the citrus of the Aperol and pairs perfectly with the allspice bitters as a finishing component.

Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photography by cheryl waller

El Mezcalero

Serves 1 Infused Falernum 1 bottle falernum 1 6-inch piece ginger, peeled and thinly sliced 10 whole cloves Cinnamon Simple Syrup 8 oz water 1 cup granulated sugar 2 Ceylon cinnamon sticks, broken into smaller pieces El Mezcalero 1 oz mezcal ¾ oz infused falernum (recipe follows) ¾ oz Aperol ¼ oz cinnamon simple syrup (recipe follows) 2 dashes allspice bitters lime twist or dehydrated lime wheel, for garnish / preparation – infused falernum / Add all ingredients to an airtight, nonreactive container; allow to infuse overnight. / preparation – cinnamon simple syrup / In a small saucepan, bring water to a boil. Meanwhile, add sugar and cinnamon sticks to a heatproof bowl. Add boiling water to bowl. Stir mixture until sugar has completely dissolved and then transfer bowl to refrigerator; allow cinnamon to steep overnight. Strain out solids; store in an airtight container in refrigerator for up to two weeks. / preparation – el mezcalero / In a shaker tin, add all ingredients, except garnish; add ice and shake vigorously.

Strain mixture into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with lime twist or dehydrated lime wheel.

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feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 0

ONE ON ONE

ONE on

/

kansas city

with Cherven Desauguste / chef-owner, Mesob Restaurant & Rhum Bar What makes the food you serve at Mesob special? It is the mix of many cultures

3 Must-Try Dishes

that we bring together under one roof. We serve both Ethiopian dishes and Caribbean dishes at Mesob, and Caribbean cuisine is true fusion cuisine, as it incorporates small bits from every country that landed there.

I try to do the same with my cooking. I take all of those flavors and interpret them the best way I know how on the plate. Once you try any of my dishes, you’ll understand where I’m coming from. I sometimes serve goat stew with okra, [for instance, which] is considered a staple in West Africa, where it is eaten with fufu. [Most] of the spices that I use, such as clove, cardamom, turmeric and cumin, were cultivated in Asia and Africa before landing in the Caribbean.

Ginger is [another] good example and is something that I use in both my curry shrimp and my caramel sauce.

caribbean fritters

For these deep-fried fritters, Desauguste combines grated taro root with fresh herbs and Caribbean spices such as allspice, garlic, ginger and thyme. He then serves them with fresh cilantro sauce.

Tell us more about the Rhum Bar inside Mesob. Rhum with an “h” is French-style [rum] made from fresh-pressed sugarcane [juice], making it less processed than the traditional English-style rum, and it is commonly found in the Caribbean. It tastes a bit bolder in flavor than regular rum. I have used it to create a tropical rhum-based cocktail menu, [plus] I have worked with several different liquor reps to amass a premium selection of traditional sipping rhums, which you would drink neat or on the rocks like you would bourbon or whiskey. This is how we drink it in Haiti, and no one in Kansas City is really offering that experience with rhum, so I thought it made sense that we own it.

house special

This Ethiopian platter features lamb, beef and chicken tibs sautéed with onion and jalapeños and seasoned with a mix of house spices. It’s served with housemade injera – a sour fermented flatbread traditionally made with teff flour.

What inspired your line of plateware, Cherven Tableware Supplies? I was having a hard time finding unique Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by zach bauman

plateware. I wanted color and texture on my plates, [and] I thought, who better to

Upscale Caribbean dishes and earthy Ethiopian fare unite at Mesob Restaurant & Rhum Bar. A partnership between Haitian-born Cherven Desauguste and Mehret Tesfamariam, who hails from Eritrea, Mesob opened in a new location in the Midtown-Westport neighborhood a few months before the COVID-19 pandemic hit Missouri. With more visibility and a stage for live music – not to mention a more refined menu that still packs a flavor punch – Mesob was drawing increasingly

sell plateware than a chef? I found three international companies that had the type of plates I was looking for, so I ordered inventory. At this point, I have launched my website, cherventableware.com, and I am warehousing and fulfilling all the orders

bigger crowds. Although things have since quieted down at the restaurant, Desauguste hasn’t

myself. If this gets big enough, I’ll need to

slowed down. During the pandemic, he’s revamped the menu for carryout, finalized the dining room

locate a fulfillment house to do this work

oxtail

for me. My bestseller? I have a beautiful

A traditional Caribbean dish with French influences, the oxtail at Mesob is slowcooked with sweet peas, collard greens, potatoes, baby carrots and red wine. The meat is rich and succulent, and the spicy mixture is served with mushroom rice.

décor and launched his own line of plateware. At Mesob, which is currently seating at half capacity, Desauguste has also curated a new bar program focused exclusively on rhum agricole, a style of rum originally distilled in the French Caribbean islands from fresh-pressed sugarcane juice rather than molasses. As he continues to work all the angles, Desauguste says he hopes to ensure that Mesob not only survives this difficult situation but also thrives afterward.

appetizer plate that is black and textured with gold accents that has been popular.

3601 Broadway Blvd., Kansas City, Missouri, mesobkc.com

/ d e c e mbe r 2 02 0

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HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 ways / on trend / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / the dish / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

SPRINGFIELD, MO ▶

Jums African Market story and photography by tessa cooper

For Springfield, Missouri, residents with African heritage, Jums African Market is a taste of home. “The joy in the faces of our customers whenever they come across products that they haven’t seen in years is my favorite part,” says Fola Sodade, who owns the grocery store with his wife, Jummy. For other customers, Jums provides a welcoming window into traditional African cuisine. Here, you can purchase rare items, including goat’s meat, fufu flour and egusi (melon seeds).

The Sodades both grew up in Lagos – which Fola refers to as the cultural and economic nerve center of Nigeria – and the products on offer at Jums reflect their West African backgrounds, but over time, their inventory has expanded to include staples of East Africa, Jamaica and the Caribbean as well. Try some of the ingredients in action at Désire, the couple’s neighboring food truck, which serves dishes such as plantains with chicken sauce and African noodles with eggs.

1410 E. Kerney St., Suite G, Springfield, Missouri, jumsmarket.com

Ingredients to pick up

African red beans are boiled until tender

Commonly mistaken for sweet potatoes, yams

and then mashed with fried pepper sauce

have a starchier flavor. Fola typically dresses them

to create ewa agoyin, a popular street

in spices such as berbere, an Ethiopian spice blend

food in Lagos. Fola also recommends

that packs plenty of heat.

from

using the beans to make akara (a type of

Jums African Market

cake), which are common snacks

fritter) and moin moin (a steamed bean at African weddings, funerals and christenings.

Considered a must-have item at any African or international store, ugali (maize meal) is used most often in northern Nigeria and East Africa, and its consistency and texture can vary depending on the region from which it comes.

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MIDWEST MADE

Whether toasted over a crackling campfire, dropped in a steaming cup of hot chocolate or pulled apart with your fingers, marshmallows are fun to eat.

And these Missouri makers promise you’ll love how they taste too.

Written by Rachel Huffman / photography by matt seidel

A veritable marshmallow tycoon, Katie Kring, owner of KatieMade in Springfield, Missouri, makes small-batch vanilla marshmallows by hand without corn syrup. She uses a substantial amount of honey, which gives them a real depth of flavor, and organic beef gelatin.

Available at Culture Counter on Pickwick Avenue as well as online, Kring’s pillowy treats have a nice chew that will keep you reaching for one after the other. pickwickandcherry.com

Marcey Mertens, owner of Wishflour Bakery in Columbia, Missouri, has been baking her whole life. Soft and creamy, her giant squares of made-fromscratch vanilla marshmallows melt beautifully in hot chocolate, and Mertens says they’ve even been known to impress “antimarshmallow people.” Grab some from the retail cases at Plume Bake Shoppe, or contact Mertens directly to place an order. wishflourbakery.com

At SugarBot Sweet Shop in St. Charles, Missouri, co-owner and operator Jackie Huebbe makes marshmallows from scratch using the root of the mallow plant. Sweet with a smooth texture, the classic can stand alone, but for a more nostalgic experience, try the s’mores marshmallows dipped in chocolate and dusted with graham cracker crumbs. Huebbe also makes seasonal flavors such as cinnamon, salted caramel, banana split and lemon throughout the year. All flavors are available for curbside pickup at the 500-square-foot storefront just four blocks from Main Street. sugarbotsweetshop.com

The Modest Mallow is a side hustle for William Wald. He began making marshmallows in his Kansas City apartment five years ago, but it wasn’t until he experimented with flavored marshmallows that he felt he had something “wildly interesting” to offer customers. First came the lavender marshmallows made with herbs from Sweet Streams Lavender Co. in Bucyrus, Kansas. Now Wald sells six flavors, from peanut butter to mocha to chai, in addition to seasonal flavors such as pumpkin spice in the fall and spicy cinnamon and peppermint around the holidays.

Order packages of the all-natural treats at themodestmallow.com.

Known for its award-winning chocolate, Kakao Chocolate also boasts housemade vanilla bean marshmallows. On occasion, specialty marshmallows are available as well, which add chocolate, fruit flavors and other creative ingredients to the signature flavor. If you’re looking for an even greater indulgence, try the marshmallow pies featuring toasted Missouri pecans sandwiched between vanilla bean marshmallows, coated with semisweet chocolate and dusted with confectioners’ sugar. All of these treats are available at the shop in Maplewood, Missouri, as well as online. kakaochocolate.com

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HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 ways / on trend / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / the dish / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

A block of fish eggs doesn’t sound appetizing – but we have much to learn.

What Do I Do With It? Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

Bottarga begs to be grated. Breaking all that flavor and texture up into tiny bits helps it integrate into whatever dish you’re throwing it on, plus it’s too salty to handle in larger doses. Grate it over roasted vegetables such as asparagus and tomatoes; stir it into pasta and risotto; or sprinkle it on top of garlic bread, pizza,

What Is It?

eggs and bagels with schmear. Lemon also dials down the salinity – think what a

Imagine a super salty Parmesan that explodes on your palate like fireworks.

wonder lemon is over any fish – and keeps it from overpowering other flavors.

That’s how I think of bottarga, or fish roe pressed to remove air, salted, air-

20

dried and compressed further into firm blocks of ocean-flavored goodness.

Don’t cook bottarga: It can be gently heated – stirred or twirled into hot dishes

It can be made with the roe of bluefin or yellowfin tuna, bonito or cod, but the

and sprinkled over others – but you’ll kill the flavor with high heat. And never buy

most well-known – and the prettiest – version of bottarga is made with the

pre-grated bottarga: Head for the whole block, which is less expensive than you

roe of grey mullet from Sardinia, Italy, which has a red-orange glow. Smooth,

might expect. To purchase quality bottarga, your best bet is the internet, and if

salty and delightfully fishy, Sardinian bottarga is downright addictive.

you find that you like Sardinian bottarga, expand your horizons with other types.

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 0

Sun-Dried Tomato Cauliflower with Lemon and Bottarga

serves 4 ½

2 4 to 6 ¹⁄₃

1 2 to 3

1

1

cup sun-dried tomatoes, not packed in oil, plumped in hot water for 10 minutes and drained cloves garlic, smashed large fresh basil leaves cup, plus 4 Tbsp, olive oil, divided kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper large head cauliflower, leaves removed Tbsp grated bottarga Tbsp capers medium lemon, sliced

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 400°F. Add plumped sun-dried tomatoes, garlic and basil to the bowl of a food processor; pulse to blend. Stream in ¹⁄₃ cup olive oil as processor runs; continue to process until mixture reaches the consistency of pesto. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium high heat. Slice cauliflower from tip to tail into 1¼-inch-thick flat-sided slices (they should lay flat in the skillet); reserve any stray pieces for another use. Coat bottom of skillet with 2 tablespoons olive oil; add cauliflower slices and cook until undersides are dark golden brown, 5 minutes. Transfer cauliflower slices to a plate. Add remaining olive oil to skillet and then place cauliflower slices back in skillet with the opposite side facing down. Brush sun-dried tomato mixture on top of cauliflower and season with salt and pepper; cook, 4 minutes. Transfer pan to oven; roast until undersides are dark golden brown and slices are fork-tender, 10 to 13 minutes. / to serve / Place cauliflower slices on a platter; sprinkle bottarga on top. Add capers; season with salt and pepper.

Serve hot along with lemon slices.

Use a microplane to grate the bottarga.

I love the idea of cauliflower steaks, but there’s a lot of waste that happens when you can only get two decent cuts of “steak” from one head of cauliflower. This recipe uses the same roasting technique you’d use for cauliflower steaks but as much of the cruciferous vegetable as possible to create a dramatic side dish.

pair with: Vidal blanc

PA I R IT!

A bright, zesty white wine will pop next to the sun-dried tomato spread and fresh lemon juice in this recipe while counterbalancing the briny flavor of the bottarga and capers. I suggest the Soleil Vidal Blanc from Edg-Clif Vineyard, Winery and Brewery in Potosi, Missouri.

It’s a light semisweet wine with citrus notes, a refreshing mouthfeel and a hint of honey on the finish. –Hilary Hedges edg-clif.com

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HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 ways / on trend / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / the dish / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Spice-Roasted

With every dish she serves, Anna Meyer, chef-owner of Range Free in Columbia, strives to show the mid-Missouri community that allergen-free food can be unexpected, flavorful and satisfying. The menu at her bakery-café caters to special dietary needs, meaning you won’t find any wheat, peanuts, tree nuts, fish or shellfish in the kitchen. This spiced spin on butternut squash soup, for example – a part of the rotating soups du jour – is vegetarian by nature, but it can easily be made vegan by using a nonanimal-based fat to roast the squash. “The roasting really elevates the sugars in the vegetable and gives [the soup] a very complex flavor profile once it’s all said and done,” explains Meyer. “You can throw raw butternut squash into a soup and it’s a good soup, but if you roast it, it really takes it to another level.”

–Kasey Carlson

Recipe courtesy of Anna Meyer, chef-owner, Range Free

yields 8 cups

Photography by kim wade

Spice-Roasted Butternut Squash 1 medium butternut squash, peeled, seeded and chopped into 1-inch cubes ¼ cup liquid fat ¼ cup balsamic vinegar ½ tsp chile powder You can use butter, ½ tsp ground coriander plant-based butter, ½ tsp sea salt olive oil or coconut ½ tsp white pepper oil depending on ½ tsp black pepper preference and/or ¼ tsp cinnamon dietary restriction. ¼ tsp red pepper flakes ¼ tsp ground fennel Spice-Roasted Butternut Squash Soup 1 Tbsp olive oil 1 onion, diced 2 carrots, thinly sliced 1 stalk celery, finely diced ½ tsp salt spice-roasted butternut squash (recipe follows) 4 cups vegetable broth 1 cup coconut milk / preparation – spice-roasted butternut squash / Preheat oven to 400ºF. In a large bowl, add all ingredients; toss to combine. Transfer butternut squash to a 9-by-13-inch baking sheet or casserole dish; roast until soft, approximately 45 minutes, flipping occasionally. Remove from oven and set aside. / preparation – spice-roasted butternut squash soup / Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onion, carrots, celery and salt; sauté until vegetables have softened, approximately 10 minutes. Add butternut squash (along with any pan drippings) and broth; bring to a boil and then reduce heat to simmer, 15 minutes. Remove mixture from heat. Using an immersion blender, purée until smooth. Stir in coconut milk; taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Serve hot.

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Pick up a batch of Meyer's grain-free buttermilk-Cheddar biscuits for dipping.

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

springfield, mo

with Alice Oh / owner, The Press Coffee & Juice Bar and Sno Bubble Tea What makes The Press stand out? We’re known for coffee, tea, juices and smoothies, and when [people] come in, they’re surprised that we [also] have full breakfast and lunch menus. We crafted our menus to inspire better daily lifestyle choices, [which makes us] unique from other coffee shops and cafés, and we accommodate those who have food sensitivities [with] gluten-free, dairy-free, nut-free, keto, vegetarian and vegan [items]. I didn’t follow the rules of what a coffee shop should be; I like to make my own identity in the restaurant industry. I feel like when you actually know what your identity is and what you have a passion for, you just go with it.

Written by Claire Porter photography by brandon alms

The Press Coffee & Juice Bar

specializes in the unexpected.

The fast-casual Springfield, Missouri, eatery boasts menus of Korean-Mexican fusion dishes alongside coffee, tea, juices, smoothies and smoothie bowls for breakfast and lunch. In 2017, after running South Korean franchise Caffe Bene in Farmers Park for three years, Alice Oh opened The Press in its place. The opportunity to create her own identity in the restaurant industry drove Oh to focus on healthful foods, and since moving to the Brentwood Shopping Center in October 2019, she has been able to expand her selection while maintaining her passion for natural ingredients.

What inspired the Korean-Mexican fusion dishes on the menus? An improvised lunch became the menu. One day, my husband wanted Korean food; I wanted Mexican food. We were busy, so I took rice, I put bulgogi in with kimchi and I wrapped it up in a tortilla. When we took that first bite, I realized I could make [that] a full menu.

[The whole menu has] a healthy inspiration. The Nourish Bowl, [for example], is basically bibimbap, but I made it a little bit healthier – I made it how I would eat it.

In what ways are you focusing on whole foods?

Understanding what Mother Nature brings to the table is key. We use sustainable ingredients and avoid preservatives, GMOs, hydrogenated fats and excessive sugar. We believe in real food experiences that inspire healthy lifestyles – it’s the small, fundamental changes in everyday choices that have the biggest impact on our future health. The other thing we want to promote is community, so we try to buy local as much as possible.

Our coffee is local, our milk is local, and instead of sugar, we use local raw honey.

What are your plans for the coming months? We’re getting ready to update our menu, and we are probably going to do a happy hour. It’s going to be really unique, and the menu will [feature] dishes that you can’t find [elsewhere]. That’s what I want: to make food that you can’t find anywhere but The Press.

2710 S. Glenstone Ave., Springfield, Missouri, facebook.com/417thepress

s t - t r y dis

s

from the press

he

mu

According to Oh, the Buddha Bowl is one of the prettiest dishes, plus “it’s got every single thing on the food pyramid that you need,” she says.

The tacos can be made gluten-free and vegetarian or vegan with choose-your-own shells, proteins and sauces. The most popular combination is the fried shrimp with pineapple sauce in a crunchy shell.

Served in a hot stone bowl, the Nourish Bowl features a healthy blend of rice, quinoa, kale, spring mix, kimchi, sautéed onions, carrots, cucumber, avocado, a fried egg and your choice of additional protein topped with spicy sauce. / d e c e mbe r 2 02 0

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yields 12 cookies ¾ 1½ ¼ ¼ ¹⁄₈ ¾ ½ ½ 2 ¾

1

cup hazelnuts cups all-purpose flour tsp fine sea salt tsp ground cinnamon tsp freshly grated nutmeg or ground nutmeg cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature cup sugar Try cranberry, black tsp finely grated orange zest raspberry or blood large egg yolks tsp vanilla extract orange jam for a more powdered sugar, for dusting seasonal flavor. cup jam

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 350°F. Place hazelnuts on a baking sheet; bake until lightly toasted, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from oven and set on wire rack to cool, 5 minutes. Wrap hazelnuts in a large kitchen towel and rub them together to remove skins (it’s OK if some skins don’t rub off).

Discard skins and place hazelnuts back on baking sheet to cool completely.

Transfer cooled hazelnuts to a food processor and grind until fine.

Measure out ¾ cup finely ground hazelnuts and set aside. (Store leftover ground hazelnuts in an airtight container and use for other holiday baking projects or sprinkle on top of oatmeal, yogurt and other desserts.)

In a small bowl, whisk together flour, sea salt, cinnamon and nutmeg; set aside until ready to use. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat butter, sugar and orange zest until light and fluffy, 2 minutes. Add egg yolks and vanilla; mix until combined. (Stop and scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed.) Add ¾ cup finely ground hazelnuts; mix until combined. On low speed, add flour mixture; mix until combined.

Transfer dough to a large sheet of parchment paper; set a second sheet of parchment paper on top. Roll out dough to ¼ inch thick. Place the parchment paper-encased dough on a baking sheet and set in freezer, at least 2 hours or until dough is thoroughly frozen.

The Linzer torte is an Austrian pastry made with flour, ground nuts and spices, filled with fruit preserves and topped with a lattice crust.

In cookie form, the dessert features two shortbread-style cookies sandwiched together with jam and finished with a flourish of powdered sugar. Although Linzer cookies are traditionally made with almonds, this recipe uses hazelnuts for a wintery feel, and

Preheat oven to 350°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Remove dough from freezer. Using a 2-inch fluted round cookie cutter, cut out dough rounds. Lightly reroll scraps and then cut out remaining rounds.

Using a smaller decorative cookie cutter, cut out the centers of half of the dough rounds (you can bake these pieces of dough separately – just finish them with powdered sugar and enjoy later). Place all rounds on prepared baking sheet, 1 inch apart; bake, 11 to 12 minutes or until lightly browned around the edges. Remove from oven and set on wire rack to cool. Once cooled, place the cookies with cutouts on a piece of parchment paper or baking sheet and sift powdered sugar over the tops. Turn over the remaining cookies and completely cover the bottoms with a thin layer of jam; place one dusted cookie on top of each. Using a spoon, fill the remaining space of the cutouts with more jam. Enjoy!

you can fill the cookies with any flavor of jam you desire. Festive and stunning, they’re absolutely irresistible on the holiday table.

pair with: Irish Coffee Story, recipe and photography by Teresa Floyd, Food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com

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PA I R IT!

I imagine enjoying these cookies after dinner with a well-executed Irish coffee, but instead of using Irish whiskey, try vodka, or more specifically, Dizzy Three, which is distilled in Olathe, Kansas. In the bottom of a mug, place 1 sugar cube; add 1½ ounces Dizzy Three.

Add the coffee of your choice, leaving approximately 2 inches at the top of the mug. Stir to dissolve sugar.

Top with whipped cream and dust with cinnamon and nutmeg, if desired. –Jenn Tosatto clear10vodka.com

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Cool Cow Cheese

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Available: -Online -At the Farm -Schnucks -Dierberg’s Market

@ M&T Farms- @ M and T Farms

coolcowcheese.com / d e c e mbe r 2 02 0

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HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 ways / on trend / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / the dish / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

In this class, you’ll learn how to choose the best breads for strata and bread pudding, plus how to determine when these custard-based beauties are thoroughly baked.

Green Chile Strata Holidays in many homes, including mine, revolve around traditions. I found this recipe years ago – so many years ago that I can’t recall the source – and it has become a Christmas morning staple. You can easily prep it the night before, which I think makes it taste even better. recipe adapted by Gabrielle DeMichele Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Get Hands-On Join Schnucks Cooking School director Gabrielle DeMichele on Zoom at 5pm on Mon., Dec. 14 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu. For more information on everything you’ll need for the virtual class – from cookware to ingredients – contact the cooking school directly.

nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704 26

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 0

serves 6 to 8 8 2 ¾ ½ 8

16 1 1 1

eggs cups half-and-half tsp kosher salt tsp white pepper slices bread, 1 inch thick, crusts removed and cut into ½-inch squares oz can chopped green chiles cup grated Monterey Jack cup grated white Cheddar Tbsp butter sour cream and salsa verde, for serving

MAKE THE MEAL • Brunch-Inspired Mandarin Salad • Green Chile Strata • Candied Bacon • Fresh Cinnamon Rolls

/ preparation / In a large bowl, whisk eggs until whites and yolks are blended. Add half-and-half, salt and pepper; whisk to incorporate. Add bread cubes, chiles and cheeses; stir with a spatula to combine. Butter a 9-by-9-inch baking pan and then pour in bread mixture; cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate, at least one hour or overnight.

Preheat oven to 300°F. Remove strata from refrigerator and let rest at room temperature, 30 minutes. Remove plastic wrap and transfer strata to oven; bake until puffed and golden brown, 1 hour. Serve hot with sour cream and salsa verde.

CULINARY LIBRARY /

mid-missouri

with Rexroy Scott / chef and co-owner, Jamaican Jerk Hut

tFriends since grade school, Rexroy Scott and Collin Russell both moved from

photography by kim wade

Jamaica to Jefferson City, Missouri, to play soccer at Lincoln University. Unable to find quality Caribbean cuisine in the area, they began cooking it for themselves.

Before long, they were cooking for other people as well, and they launched Jamaican Jerk Hut as a food truck in 2005 in hopes of using food as the vehicle to introduce all of their neighbors to their culture. Now, with brick-and-mortar locations in Jefferson City and Columbia, Missouri, the pair continues to delight customers with flavorful island dishes such as oxtail and curried goat. Inspired by their home country, Scott keeps these cookbooks on his shelf. –Kala Elkinton

Meathead

Levi Roots’ Reggae Reggae Cookbook

The Real Taste of Jamaica

by Greg Blonder, Ph.D., and Meathead Goldwyn (2016)

by Levi Roots (2008)

by Enid Donaldson (1993)

“Levi Roots has good recipes, but I’m enamored with his story: He took reggae cooking from Jamaica to England. His success mostly came from [launching] a line of Jamaican sauces, but the most intriguing part is that he has taken the common Jamaican street food recipes and translated them to have mass appeal in a country that is not familiar with the Caribbean style of cooking.”

“I keep this cookbook in my kitchen at home. Enid Donaldson majored in classic, more upper-class Jamaican cooking – think meals that would appeal to Victorian England, not street food like we usually make. These are the types of full-course meals that you would make – and we often do – for Sunday dinner.”

“Greg Blonder uses this book to delve into the science of the great American barbecue, [which] is similar to jerk cooking.

Blonder goes into what’s behind the flame, the temperature, the environments you’re cooking in and all of the elements that help you arrive at the perfect texture and flavor.”

Thanks for 12 GREAT YEARS as Missouri’s local distributor of fine wine and spirits!

Vintegrity Fine Wine and Spirits – supplier to Missouri and Kansas of fine wine and spirits from around the world – and right next door.

Happy Holidays!

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816-842-0900 | VintegrityWine.com

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A Brief History Cane sugar – the original sugar, if you will – has been around for ages. The earliest indications of the domestication of sugarcane were around 8000 B.C.E. in what is now Papua New Guinea, where the indigenous people are believed to have chewed it raw. Around 4000 B.C.E., the sugarcane plant was first processed into cane juice in areas that correspond to present-day Papua New Guinea, Thailand and southern China, but it wasn’t until sometime between the first century B.C.E. and the first century C.E. that India discovered how to crystallize the juice by boiling it and subsequently began the first organized production of sugar. The sugarcane plant then headed due west to the Middle East and northern Africa during the Middle Ages, finally

How Sweet It Is

leapfrogging to the West Indies and tropical regions of the Americas during the 17th century. Like the best group projects, every region’s people worked to further enhance and refine the cultivation and production of sugar as it spread across the globe.

Approximately a century later, an industrious German realized that beets contain almost the same amount of sucrose by weight as sugarcane and that by using a slightly different processing method, the sucrose in

story and recipe by Shannon Weber,

beets could be extracted and crystallized to produce

writer and recipe developer, aperiodictableblog.com

cane sugar’s chemical twin. Beet sugar hit markets in

photography by Jennifer Silverberg

1783, kick-starting the sugar industry in Europe – which had largely missed out on the sugar rush up until that point due to its climate.

One of nature’s oldest sweeteners, sugar has a long history and many modern variations.

Whether you’re a budding baker or you have an insatiable sweet tooth, you’re in for a real treat.

Sugar didn’t achieve world domination until the 19th and 20th centuries. Suddenly, sugar was everywhere: easy to get and easy to use thanks to massive streamlining in sugar production and distribution.

Worldwide, beet sugar accounts for 30 percent of the sugar market, but in the U.S., it makes up 60 percent of the sugar on our shelves.

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Cane Sugar vs. Beet Sugar chemically, cane sugar and beet sugar are identical.

Both are 100 percent pure crystallized sucrose once processed, so the plant it came from is mostly irrelevant.

That said, professional tasters can detect the difference in flavor; beet sugar has an earthier flavor with a bite at the end while cane sugar is fruitier with more of a sweet finish.

To achieve its pure white color, cane sugar is processed with bone char from cattle – a deal-breaker for some.

Beet sugar, on the other hand, can’t become brown sugar without a little help from cane sugar-derived molasses, which some say changes the moisture level and texture of the final product – and not in a good way.

Looking to surprise your sweet tooth?

These unconventional sugars bring something new to the kitchen.

The World Travelers Light or dark in color, jaggery is an unrefined cane sugar often combined with date or palm sap and set in molds. It’s less readily available outside of the regions where it’s produced, including India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Nepal and Pakistan, but if you can snag some, you’ll surely enjoy its floral vanilla flavor with hints of caramel.

VGranulated

VBrown

When you think of sugar,

sugar, brown sugar

you most likely think of this.

is simply granulated

Small-grained and pure white,

sugar with a little

A partially refined sugar with a hefty molasses flavor,

granulated sugar is a workhorse

molasses added back in

muscovado is dark, coarse and contains more moisture than

that can do almost anything.

for flavor and texture.

standard brown sugar. Most of the artisanal muscovado sugars

(white)

The other standard

Japanese kokuto, an unrefined sugar made from slow-cooking cane juice, is touted as “the world’s healthiest brown sugar.” It’s firm with a sweet, complex flavor.

come from the island nation of Mauritius off the east coast of Africa, where it’s grown in rich volcanic soil.

VSuperfine/ Caster

VConfectioners’

A tiny-grained version of

granulated sugar into

granulated sugar, superfine

a powdered state,

sugar, or caster sugar, is

confectioners’ sugar

great for fussier baked

typically contains

goods that need sugar to

cornstarch to prevent

dissolve quickly once it’s

caking and clumping. It’s

added to the recipe.

mostly used in icings and

Produced by milling

frostings, though you’ll find it in cookies as well.

VTurbinado

VDemerara

turbinado sugar – a

those of turbinado sugar,

“raw” sugar – only have

the grains of demerara

the surface molasses

sugar have even less

removed, giving the

molasses removed,

product a soft tan hue and

making them wetter, if

a light caramel flavor.

only by degrees.

The larger grains of

Slightly larger than

Panela – which has different names depending on the country you’re in, from Mexico to Brazil to Chile – is an unrefined sugar with robust caramel flavor. Warm and earthy, it’s set in molds to harden like jaggery.

The Hippies Coconut sugar comes from the sap of the buds on coconut palms and boasts a flavor similar to light brown sugar.

Dark brown with a sweet butterscotch flavor, date sugar has limited applications because it won’t melt or dissolve in liquid.

If you continue boiling maple sap past the point of syrup, you get maple sugar. It has a sweet, mellow maple flavor, but be careful because it burns easily.

The Exterior Decorators The crystals of pearl sugar are approximately the size of – you guessed it – pearls. Pure white, this sugar is used for decorating and adding crunch to baked goods, as it won’t melt at regular baking temperatures.

VMolasses /Black Treacle

Molasses – the thick, brown syrup that remains after all the crystallized sugar is removed – is sold several ways. You should always buy unsulphured molasses, but you can take your pick of

Sanding sugar, or coarse sugar, has large crystals that won’t dissolve with heat, so it’s added to cookies prior to baking or sprinkled on cakes and cupcakes after baking for decoration.

light, dark/robust and blackstrap, which indicate how many times the molasses has been boiled

If you polish coarse sugar until it glistens, you get sparkling

down. Remember: The darker the molasses, the stronger the bitterness, so choose wisely.

sugar, which can easily turn treats into art. / d e c e mbe r 2 02 0

29

HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 ways / on trend / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / the dish / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

A Smidgen of Science From reading cookbooks to mastering kitchen skills, you’ve likely come across the terms “Maillard reaction” and “caramelization,” but do you know the difference between the two?

Maillard Reaction What is it? Named for French physician and chemist Louis-Camille Maillard, it’s the chemical reaction between amino acids (in other words, proteins) and reducing sugars that occurs during cooking – be it grilling, frying or baking.

What does it do? The Maillard reaction gives instant complexity and depth of flavor to food as well as a “crust” to the finished product.

Imagine the crispy exterior of a perfectly grilled steak, the signature crunch of potato chips, the pleasingly burnt edges of a fried egg, the toasty meringue on top of a pie or the dark, robust nature of coffee – that’s the Maillard reaction at work. If you’re cooking tonight, chances are you’ll be using the Maillard reaction to bring a better sensory

Orange-Cardamom-Scented Serinakaker

experience to the table. yields 24 cookies

Caramelization What is it? Caramelization is a form of pyrolysis. Put simply, when carbohydrates – the sugars found in Cane sugar tends to be more willing to caramelize than beet sugar, but both types will eventually get there.

starches, fruits and vegetables – are exposed to high temperatures and begin to break down, caramelization occurs, creating all kinds of new flavors, colors, aromas and textures. It’s all about sugar changing forms in a heat-driven environment; caramelization doesn’t require any amino acids to get the job done.

What does it do? Similar to the Maillard reaction, caramelization darkens food and brings forth a complexity and depth of flavor that other cooking methods simply can’t attain. Without caramelization, you wouldn’t have those exquisitely toasted marshmallows for s’mores, and crème brûlée would just be upscale pudding.

30

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 0

Always use real sugar for these reactions.

Artificial sweeteners and other synthetic sugar substitutes won’t react as well – or at all – which can ruin your food.

2

½

½

¼

¾

¾

2

1

1

1 ½ to ²⁄₃

cups unbleached all-purpose flour tsp baking powder tsp ground cardamom tsp kosher salt cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature cup granulated sugar tsp orange zest large egg tsp pure vanilla extract large egg white, lightly beaten cup pearl sugar, for decorating

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 350°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, whisk flour, baking powder, cardamom and salt until blended; set aside. Add butter and sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer; beat on high until combined and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Scrape down sides of bowl with a spatula. Add orange zest, egg and vanilla; beat on high until combined, 2 to 3 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl as needed.

Add flour mixture, pulsing to incorporate; mix on low until dough is just combined and no dry patches remain, 45 seconds to 1 minute.

Serinakaker is a classic Norwegian holiday cookie topped with pearl sugar, which adds an unexpected crunch. This version incorporates my favorite flavor combination for this time of year: orange and cardamom. Like nutmeg, freshly ground cardamom is far superior to pre-ground cardamom, so keep a few pods in your pantry to grind up as needed.

Scoop out 1 tablespoon dough and roll between palms to form a 1-inch ball; set on prepared baking sheet.

Repeat process with remaining dough, spacing each ball 2 inches apart. Using a flat-bottomed drinking glass or measuring cup, flatten balls slightly. Brush each with egg white and decorate with sugar. Bake until tops of cookies have taken on slight color, 13 to 15 minutes. Remove and leave on baking sheet to cool, 10 minutes; transfer to wire rack to cool completely before serving.

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Bourbon Bread Pudding with Raisins and Walnuts SERVES | 8 to 10 |

• ½ cup raisins • ½ cup bourbon, plus 1 Tbsp, divided • 3 cups whole milk • 3 Tbsp butter, melted • 4 eggs, beaten • ½ cup brown sugar • 2 tsp cinnamon 1-8 0 0-BY DESIG N CLOSETSBYDESIGN.COM

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• 7 slices brioche, cubed • ¾ cup chopped walnuts

| PREPARATION | In a small bowl, mix raisins and

½ cup bourbon. Allow to sit for a few hours or overnight. When ready to make the bread pudding, drain the bourbon from the raisins.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish and set aside. In a large bowl, mix the milk, butter, eggs, brown sugar, cinnamon and 1 Tbsp bourbon until well blended. Add bread cubes and mix gently, coating the bread evenly with the custard, then gently stir in raisins and walnuts. Pour the bread pudding into your prepared pan and bake until the top is golden and crisp, 40 to 50 minutes. Allow to cool for 15 to 20 minutes before serving.

PROMOTION

Red Wine Dressed Winter Salad with Crispy Salami and Dried Cherries SERVES | 6 to 8 |

• 1 4-oz package Volpi salami • ¾ cup dry red wine • 2 cups mixed torn lettuces – Boston bibb, Romaine, red leaf, etc.

• 1 cup arugula • 2 heads endive, sliced • ½ cup chopped radicchio • ½ cup dried cherries • ½ cup good-quality blue cheese like Stilton • 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil • 1 tsp Dijon mustard • fresh or dry herbs, as you wish • salt and freshly ground black pepper | PREPARATION | Preheat oven to 325°F. Line two

rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper and evenly distribute salami slices. Bake in the oven until the edges begin to curl, about 10 minutes.

Allow to cool.

Champagne Punch with Rosemary and Citrus SERVES | 6 to 8 |

• ¾ cup water • ¾ cup sugar

Meanwhile, in a small pan, simmer wine over medium-high heat until reduced by at least half.

Pour into a jar with salt and pepper to taste. Add oil, mustard and any herbs you like – oregano, tarragon, etc. – put a lid on the jar and shake until emulsified. Set aside.

• 3 sprigs fresh rosemary

In a salad bowl, arrange lettuces, arugula, sliced endive and radicchio, tossing to evenly distribute.

Scatter cherries on top. Break salami into shards and scatter on top and then crumble blue cheese over. Serve with red wine dressing on the side.

This salad is wonderful accompanied by warm bread and good- quality butter.

• ½ cup fresh grapefruit juice

• 2 cups London Dry gin • ½ cup fresh lemon juice • ½ cup fresh orange juice, plus slices of orange for garnish • 1 bottle Brut Champagne • ice block, garnished with orange and rosemary | PREPARATION | In a small saucepan, combine

water, sugar and rosemary over mediumhigh heat. Bring to a simmer and stir to dissolve sugar, then turn off the heat, allowing the rosemary to steep. Strain and let cool. In a punch bowl, mix gin with lemon, orange and grapefruit juice. Stir in rosemary simple syrup and then add Champagne. Place ice block in the middle and serve.

In The Spirit is brought to you by Closets by Design. For more holiday recipes and cooking videos, visit feastmagazine.com/sponsored.

IMAGINE YOUR HOME TOTALLY ORGANIZED / d e c e mbe r 2 02 0

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This year has forever changed the world of dining.

As restaurants and other foodand drink-related businesses continue to grapple with capacity restrictions and social distancing mandates, the pandemic has devastated parts of the local foodand-drink industry – but it’s also exposed many of the fault lines in the industry as we know it.

This month, as 2020 comes to a close, instead of recognizing the year’s best new restaurants, we’re turning our focus to the people pushing our industry forward amid such turmoil. Our annual list of Industry Innovators honors the seasoned professionals who continue to push the envelope in the regional food-and-drink scene, and this year, their work is more important than ever. In the following pages, we’re celebrating the chefs, growers and activists who are using food as a vehicle for change in our area, from feeding their neighbors in need to creating more opportunities for people in marginalized communities to thrive in the local restaurant industry.

The past few months have been sobering for restaurants, the people who work in them and the people who love them, but the work of these tastemakers makes us hopeful that our local restaurant scene will reemerge stronger than ever. / d e c e mbe r 2 02 0

35

Shanita McAfee-Bryant founder, The Prospect

Fueled by a big win on Food Network’s Cutthroat Kitchen in 2014, chef Shanita McAfee-Bryant opened and closed her restaurant, Magnolia’s, twice before starting a food truck and catering business, Magnolia’s on the Move. When her father unexpectedly died in 2018, she took a year off to mourn his death, emerging from her grief with a plan to start a nonprofit in his honor. The Prospect is a 16-week culinary training program to help under-resourced but highly motivated community members acquire the soft and hard skills needed to break the poverty cycle and put them on the path to success. “In Kansas City, the word ‘prospect’ has a negative connotation based on Prospect Avenue, a street that has come to represent a blighted, low-income area known for crime and poverty,” explains McAfee-Bryant. “I want to take back the word and apply its literal definition, which means the probability or chance of future success.” Besides learning how to grow and cook their own food, students will have a hand in running The Prospect Urban Eatery, a café located on The Prospect’s campus that will soon be open to the public.

The goal is to equip graduates with everything they need to land a job in any local restaurant kitchen or to eventually open their own place.

“We plan to create literal prospects by giving all the students accepted into the program both work and life skills,” says McAfee-Bryant.

“The way I see it, I am their prospect, and they are my prospect, and together we’re changing our prospects for the better.” Although the program has been put on hold due to the COVID-19 pandemic, McAfee-Bryant and her board are currently fundraising with the aim to raise $250,000 and launch the program in 2021. During the pandemic, McAfee-Bryant also launched a new podcast, The Conversation, where BIPOC chefs come together to discuss their experiences and the challenges they’ve faced working in the food industry.

–Jenny Vergara theprospectkc.org PHOTO BY pilsen photo co-op

36

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 0

In early March, Gerard Craft was terrified. For weeks, the chef-owner of Niche Food Group in St. Louis had been hearing alarming stories from a friend in Italy as COVID-19 began to wreak havoc throughout the country. Knowing that it was only a matter of time before the virus spread to the U.S., he decided to pull the plug. In an emotional video posted to social media, Craft announced that he would immediately be closing the majority of his restaurants to help stop the transmission of COVID-19. “After seeing nights of very crowded dining rooms, I found myself more terrified than relieved,” he said, holding back tears. “While we want to be open for you, as a place to restore, we know that we are putting you and our employees in harm’s way.” A self-described “oversharer,” Craft says it was important to him to make the announcement publicly and transparently. “I like discussion and putting it all on the table,” he says. “Because we have a platform – not a huge platform, but we have a platform to speak on – we want to talk about things that are important to us.” With that in mind, he tasked a few of his employees with developing a list of best practices and procedures for operating safely that they then made available to other establishments. “Restaurants across the country and across the world were really

writing the procedures for all of this,” he says. “The government was underwater; health departments didn’t know anything. So we were taking notes from restaurants in China and Korea to try to figure out what people were doing to handle this safely.” To help industry employees in a more immediate way, Craft teamed up with Roo Yawitz of The Gramophone and the St. Louis Community Foundation to launch the Gateway Resilience Fund, which provided almost $2 million in short-term monetary relief to hospitality employees whose lives were upended by the pandemic. And while his restaurants remained closed, Craft put his own employees to work at the North Sarah Food Hub, where they prepared free meals for the food-insecure. Craft has since reopened most of his restaurants in some form, including his newest venture, Pastaria Deli & Wine, which offers deli sandwiches, prepared meals and natural wines in the former home of Sardella, which never reopened after the pandemic hit. And though it’s a bittersweet experience for the seasoned restaurateur, Craft says he has to set emotions aside as he focuses on evolving his concepts to be both successful and safe in this new environment – and on helping others to do the same.

–Heather Riske nichefoodgroup.com PHOTO BY jordan bauer / d e c e mbe r 2 02 0

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Nadia Navarrete-Tindall founder, Native Plants and More Imagine if every plant in every yard contributed to a working and growing ecosystem. That’s Nadia NavarreteTindall’s vision for Missouri. In the space around her home in Columbia – which she refers to as a “wildlife refuge” rather than a “garden” – there are 150 to 160 native plants thriving at any given time. Her yard boasts flowers yearround, and every plant, from grasses to herbaceous plants and shrubs to small trees, is native to the area. Through her work with Native Plants and More, Navarrete-Tindall teaches individuals and organizations about the role of native plants in preserving biodiversity: Pawpaws, for instance, are a host plant to the caterpillar of the zebra swallowtail butterfly, while lindera benzoin (more commonly known as spicebush) supports the spicebush swallowtail. “The caterpillars eat the leaves [of the latter], we use the leaves for tea, and we use the little fruits as

a spice – one plant has three purposes,” says NavarreteTindall. “Plus, when it blooms in the spring, it attracts bees.” Born and raised in El Salvador, Navarrete-Tindall came to the U.S. to study forestry and botany at Southern Illinois University before moving to Columbia. Drawing on her years of experience as a researcher and educator at the University of Missouri and Lincoln University of Missouri, she launched Native Plants and More in 2017.

Through the environmental consulting business, she gives presentations and workshops in English and Spanish to myriad organizations, and sometimes people invite her to their homes to learn about the plants growing in their yards. “In the past, people would go in and destroy everything, but now there’s more awareness of native plants,” she explains. In addition to strengthening biodiversity, Navarrete-Tindall sees native plants as a way to lift up underserved communities. This year, she

created the Native Plant Academy in collaboration with the Missouri Prairie Foundation, with funding from the Missouri Department of Conservation. Although the launch is stalled due to the COVID-19 pandemic, NavarreteTindall says that once it opens, the academy will serve underrepresented communities on the east side of Kansas City with a curriculum that includes free workshops, field trips and training on how to grow native plants, harvest them for food and maybe even make a living out of them.

She plans to work with people aged 16 and older – from high school students to single parents – to teach them the value of native plants. “Native plants are food and refuge for pollinators and other wildlife,” says NavarreteTindall. “By establishing more native plant habitats, we can help people and help nature – it’s a cycle; it’s all connected.” –Rachel Huffman business.facebook.com/ nativeplantsandmore2018 PHOTO BY keith borgmeyer / d e c e mbe r 2 02 0

39

John McQueary and Dylan Rauhoff co-owners,

touchless menu

Say goodbye to physical menus.

John McQueary and Dylan Rauhoff, co-owners of Touchless Menu, predict that restaurants and bars will still be using digital menus long after the COVID-19 pandemic ends.

Digital menus bring peace of mind to germ-conscious guests and reduce waste and costs, especially for restaurants with seasonally rotating menus. Making the transition to digital menus more user-friendly, Touchless Menu provides restaurants and bars with waterproof, wallet-sized plastic rectangles that easily attach to any surface and can withstand any number of spilled drinks or stray crumbs. To see an establishmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s offerings, patrons simply scan the QR code on the rectangles or tap their NFC-enabled mobile devices to the rectangles. Rauhoff, the former food and beverage director of The Order and Vantage Rooftop Lounge and Conservatory at Hotel Vandivort, presented the idea to McQueary, who owns Hotel Vandivort, after experiencing firsthand the challenges and downsides of using physical menus in this day and age. McQueary studied computer engineering in college, so he saw the potential and helped streamline the project. Now, restaurants in cities from Springfield to New York have adopted Touchless Menu, and soon, Rauhoff and McQueary plan to release new features to their optional online menu hosting platform, which will help businesses promote specials or events and make Touchless Menu even more compelling to clients. â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Tessa Cooper touchlessmenu.com PHOTO BY amy ray 40

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 0

chris goode When Chris Goode launched Ruby Jean’s Juicery in 2015, his passion for healthy eating – and its effects on overall well-being – created buzz in the Kansas City community. The business was inspired by – and named after – Goode’s late grandmother, who he believes could have lived longer had healthier food been more readily available to her. Today, Goode continues to embrace the social impact that his business can have. Emblazoned on the wall of the kitchen and juice bar at Troost Avenue and East 30th Street, the phrase “Health is Freedom” encourages people to change their habits to better their health; however, Goode acknowledges that food deserts and poor health care are components of systemic racism. “Lack of access [to healthy food on Kansas City’s East Side] is not a coincidence,” he says. “It was redlined. If you create a line down the entire city, on one side, there are healthy options, grocery stores, fitness opportunities, art and mediums for joy and healing, and then [on the other] side of town, there’s nothing, or worse.

To put [Ruby Jean’s] in that part of town, where my grandmother lived and worked and died,

it’s powerful.” On social media, Goode (on behalf of Ruby Jean’s) has lent his voice to the broader movement for social justice, and he has donated to the Kansas City Community Bail Fund. Goode believes his actions are just part of staying true to what Ruby Jean’s has always represented: options and support for a community that has been devalued for too long. The COVID-19 pandemic has been hard on Goode and his business – two of the three locations have closed (the downtown location permanently and the Brookside location temporarily), and the Troost location has limited hours and no dine-in seating – but he’s retained his positive mindset. On Juneteenth, he even released a new product, Black Lemonade (a blackberry lemonade featuring activated charcoal), which proved so popular that it’s become a permanent part of Ruby Jean’s lineup. “Sometimes I have a look in the mirror and say, ‘You have got to keep going,’” he says. “I feel like we’re at an impasse, [but] I feel encouraged knowing that our best seasons come after our worst ones.” –April Fleming rubyjeansjuicery.com PHOTO BY zach bauman / d e c e mbe r 2 02 0

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Ohun Ashe

founder, For the Culture STL If you want to make a positive change in the world, Ohun Ashe has a suggestion: Own who you are.

Ashe’s journey toward owning her voice began in 2014, following the police killing of teenager Michael Brown in Ferguson, Missouri. “I started off as a media person [for the protest movement], behind the scenes, because I was so afraid of my own voice,” she says. Three years later, after former St. Louis police officer Jason Stockley was found not guilty in the killing of Anthony Lamar Smith, Ashe’s fears evaporated.

“I stepped up in my community activism and started leading some of the protests,” she recalls. “But I didn’t feel passionate about getting into politics; my passion has always been supporting Black businesses, and I had to allow my passion to push me through my fears.”

In 2018, Ashe launched For the Culture STL, a database of Black-owned businesses and events centered on supporting Black entrepreneurs in the St. Louis area. In just two years, For the Culture STL has garnered more than 250,000 views, with more than half of those occurring between May and September of this year. “To be a resource now for not only Black folks in the St. Louis community but also major corporations, which use the website to find vendors, I didn’t even imagine that,” she continues. The website features directories for industries ranging from apparel and retail to legal and medical services, yet Ashe says the most popular pages are dedicated to Black-owned restaurants.

“The owners of Gourmet Soul, a restaurant in Downtown St. Louis, reached out to me not too long ago to say thank you because so many people were coming in and saying that they found them through For the Culture STL, and they didn’t even know [their restaurant] was on the site,” she says. “For the Culture covers so many different industries, but when I look at the analytics, the number one industry is always food. If you use this directory, you will find a Black business, especially a Black restaurant, probably just a few miles from you.” –Liz Miller fortheculturestl.com PHOTO BY jordan bauer / d e c e mbe r 2 02 0

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Dave Johnson When COVID-19 hit Missouri, Dave Johnson, owner of Broadway Diner in Columbia, shared the same concerns as other restaurateurs.

Business was slowing down and food was beginning to rot in his kitchen, but as schools began to temporarily close, he became more concerned about how the schoolchildren who live near the diner would stay fed. On March 19, he tweeted, “If you are a student who normally has breakfast and lunch at school, if you can get here safely, I will feed you.” And so began his KIND (Kids in Need Diner) concept. At its peak, Johnson and his small staff were sending 150 free meals home with kids every day, in addition to making food for paying customers. Johnson even had families come from other towns and parts of rural Missouri to pick up meals, which included ham and cheese omelets with biscuits and jam, 44

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owner,

broadway diner

chicken tenders with salad and grilled hot dogs with mac ‘n’ cheese – real diner classics.

As the saying goes, it takes a village, and Johnson says he’s grateful to everyone in the community who rallied around the cause. From customers to University of Missouri alumni to local farmers, many people donated food and funds to the KIND meals, and the diner also received a few grants. “The diner’s always been about building community, and I think we’ve actually always practiced people over profits,” says Johnson. “If we can inspire one part of the community to be better, then hopefully in generations to come, we’ll all be better.” Today, Broadway Diner does not serve quite as many KIND meals a day, but they remain part of its ethos. “As long as I’m able, I’m going to be feeding kids,” says Johnson.

–Kasey Carlson facebook.com/BroadwayDinerCoMo PHOTO BY keith borgmeyer

Zaid Consuegra Sauza

chef and co-owner, Pirate’s Bone Burgers

Just before his 11th birthday, Mexico City native Zaid Consuegra Sauza and his family came to the U.S. They lived, undocumented, in Shawnee, Kansas, and it wasn’t until 2014 – at age 25 – that Sauza received DACA (Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals) status. As a DACA recipient, Sauza could legally work in the U.S., and he jumped at the opportunity to start his own business. Pirate’s Bone Coffee was the precursor to his acclaimed restaurant, Pirate’s Bone Burgers, which he opened in the fall of 2019 with business partner Lydia Palma with a goal of making plant-based food more accessible to all. Featuring patties made with grilled beets and black beans, the craveable burgers from Pirate’s Bone Burgers have received high praise, and Sauza has used the spotlight to talk not only about his food but also about pressing issues within the restaurant industry, including fair wages for all employees, the need to advocate for undocumented immigrants, ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) compliance and the creation of safe spaces that welcome people from all walks of life. In the fight to save the DACA program – an understandably personal battle for Sauza – he agreed to be part of an amicus brief accompanying relevant cases at the Supreme Court. Opening up to the justices and the national media about his experiences as an undocumented chef took immense courage, but Sauza believes he’s in a position to do more by focusing on the fundamental objectives that can help us, this industry and this country move forward together. –Jenny Vergara piratesboneburgers.com PHOTO BY pilsen photo co-op

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Lyle Foster

CEO, Big Momma’s Coffee & Espresso Bar, and assistant professor, Missouri State University In 2007, when Lyle Foster opened Big Momma’s Coffee & Espresso Bar on historic Commercial Street in Springfield, Missouri, he knew he was taking a gamble. At the time, approximately 50 percent of the storefronts stood vacant. However, in the years since, the area has come to prosper in the way Foster had hoped it would, and he now considers it one of the most diverse spots in the city. “There’s a fiercely loyal customer base that really likes coming to C-Street for the experience,” says Foster. “I think there’s just such a special character to this street.” More than a café, Big Momma’s has established itself as a safe space for difficult conversations about topics such as race, feminism, immigration and sexuality. As an assistant sociology professor at Missouri State University, Foster continues these discussions through a

series called “Tough Talks.” For him, conversation is the key to understanding. “We’re at a critical point in our society right now,” he says. “We are so divided over who we are and who we want to be, and we really need to think about how to bridge that [gap]. Dialogue helps people to appreciate the other person’s perspective; it may not convince you or change you, but at least it gets you to acknowledge that they have the right to have a perspective.

After understanding our different perspectives, we can figure out how to move forward as a community.” Foster has also been working on a new soul food concept, Queen City Soul Kitchen, which had its soft opening this summer. The restaurant, located in the Woodland Heights neighborhood, is set to fully open early next year. –Tessa Cooper bigmommascoffee.com; facebook.com/QueenCitySoulKitchen PHOTO BY amy ray / d e c e mbe r 2 02 0

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Jeremy Goss

founder and CEO, The Link Market While attending Saint Louis University School of Medicine, Jeremy Goss received a life-changing piece of advice from the dean: If he wanted to help improve health care for vulnerable communities, he should start in his own community. “We saw so many patients at the hospital with medical conditions that are made worse by, and are arguably caused by, a lifetime of unhealthy eating,” says Goss.

“I saw the doctors’ frustration but also the patients’ – often they had taken two buses [to the hospital], maybe they lived in a food desert, maybe they didn’t have disposable income. Once you learn more about the reality for those patients, you can’t help but want to get involved.” In 2015, Goss did just that, co-founding St. Louis MetroMarket, a mobile farmers’ market housed in a remodeled city bus. He later exited MetroMarket, and in 2017, he launched The Link Market, a small grocery store chain with locations in underserved neighborhoods and food deserts. The first physical locations of The Link Market were inside refurbished shipping containers near MetroLink stations and other spots with high foot traffic. “We’ve been using those to accomplish the same mission [as MetroMarket] – to sell healthy food to folks in food deserts and close the gap between transportation and affordability barriers – but on a bigger scale,” says Goss. He hopes that The Link Market will inspire larger grocery store chains to invest in these communities, which currently include Wellston and Carsonville in north St. Louis County. Now Goss also provides pop-up markets via a converted mail truck that parks around town, and he’s working on opening the first brick-and-mortar location of The Link Market on the edge of the Grand Center and JeffVanderLou neighborhoods. “The most rewarding part of this for me is the interaction with the people whom I have the privilege of serving,” says Goss. “It’s incredibly rewarding; it’s hard to put into words.” –Liz Miller linkmarket.org PHOTO courtesy of jeremy goss

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Jon Taylor Civic entrepreneur Jon Taylor created Chef Collective KC in collaboration with chefs Michael Foust, Brandon Winn and Howard Hanna with one goal: to feed people. Initially, the collective was an emergency response to the COVID-19 pandemic. It established The Community Meals Project, a model that allowed restaurants to morph into community kitchens – retaining their staffs and providing free or pay-whatyou-can meals – and then slowly transition back into restaurants when the time was right.

A philanthropically funded program, The Community Meals Project has now transitioned into its own entity. “As we waded into the emergency response effort, we got a clearer picture of the complexity and nuance of food insecurity as well as the magnitude of the need in a community the size of Kansas City,” says Taylor. And so, he began to rethink the notion of a nutritional safety net. “I think, in general, the bigger existential problems of the food system and the food security challenge has to be solved as an entrepreneurial, for-profit undertaking; it’s not going to be solved with philanthropy alone,” continues Taylor. “[The pandemic] has been an absurdly traumatizing event in terms of the draw on philanthropic dollars and the shock to the system and the number of organizations raising their hands, and I think now is the time for more honest conversations. Food pantries were never intended to be the primary source of nutrition for a community for an extended

co-founder, Chef Collective KC period of time.” The long-term, for-profit model of the collective is an integrated approach to providing resiliency for the food system. On the most basic level, Chef Collective KC will transform into a curated food delivery platform. Referred to by Taylor as “the Amazon Prime of local food,” the hyper-local concept prioritizes purchasing from regional growers and ranchers, localizes product development by engaging a network of restaurants and chefs and minimizes food waste. “This is the natural evolution of what we started in March,” says Taylor. He plans to leverage the trends and changes in how we purchase and prepare food – and how we shop in general – but he emphasizes that this is not like any other food delivery service. The average subscriber will be able to purchase groceries, CSAs, meal kits and ready-to-heat entrées made by local restaurants on one platform. “It’s not just the novelty of local food – though that’s certainly an important piece of it; it’s the idea that, holistically, you’re supporting every level of the system, from the farmers to the restaurants to the grocery stores.” Taylor sees Chef Collective KC as not only a credible, scaleable entrepreneurial model – one that could ultimately be adopted by communities across the country – but also as an intuitive and natural way to support the local and regional food systems. “I think that’s how we try to bring a little order to the chaos of the conversation.” –Rachel Huffman chefcollectivekc.com PHOTO BY pilsen photo co-op / d e c e mbe r 2 02 0

49

Rob Connoley

chef-owner, Bulrush

By June, Rob Connoley had made up his mind: Plan B was not working.

Amid the pandemic, the chef-owner of Bulrush, the acclaimed Ozarks-inspired restaurant in St. Louis, had transitioned from a tasting menu format to offering prepared foods and family meal kits to-go. Although the more casual menu was popular with customers, Connoley says that his heart just wasn’t in it. “Every restaurant has their own Plan B, but it’s Plan B,” he says.

“It’s not our first choice. We were doing what we loved before all this, otherwise we wouldn’t have been doing it. So coming up with a new Plan A instead of resorting to Plan B or falling back on something that isn’t where your heart is – that’s the goal.” For Connoley, that means doubling down on Bulrush’s hyper-seasonal tasting menu, which showcases native ingredients prepared with modern techniques. Instead of changing the format of his menu, he decided to change the environment in which it’s served to customers. In August, Bulrush began offering drive-up tasting menus where customers could order a fivecourse tasting menu from the comfort of their own cars. To bring the full, immersive Bulrush experience into this new format, Connoley even recorded videos describing each dish on the menu that customers could watch on their phone or tablet through a QR code. While digging into a course featuring roasted Sibley squash tossed in pawpaw mole served on top of Missouri white bean hummus with pawpaw-citrus glaze, spicebush-flavored panko and seasonal pickles, for instance, diners could learn about Connoley’s efforts to revive historic Ozark heirloom seeds.

He would explain how he’s working with local seed banks and farmers to grow 23 rare seed varietals – including that very Sibley squash as well as cowhorn okra, purple podded peas and vine peach (a melon that tastes just like a peach) – in order to bring a true taste of the Ozarks to Bulrush’s menu. Dining at Bulrush is just as much about the story as the food, and even amid a global pandemic, Connoley is committed to telling that story however he can. –Heather Riske bulrushstl.com PHOTO BY jordan bauer 50

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