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H O L I D AY R O L L O U T L A U N C H E S N OV E M B E R 8 F E AT U R I N G :

Espresso 700 and whole milk pa i r e d w i t h o u r h o u s e m a d e brown sugar, rosemary, and vanilla syrup.

AS WELL AS NEW BA K E R Y , F O O D S P E C I A L S , A N D M E R C H A N D I S E. THE RETURN OF THE LAUNCHES NOVEMBER 25 House-made cardamom and cinnamon syrup combined with espresso 700 and whole milk

H A P P Y H O L I D AYS ! Inspired Local Food Culture

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You’ll Find Our Patio Seating Above the Rest One S. Broadway | St. Louis, Missouri | 314.241.8439 | 360-stl.com

WINNER

BEST RESTAURANT! 2018 St. Louis Magazine AList CibareItalianKitchen.com

Must be 21. Exclusions apply. Gambling Problem? Call 1.888.BETSOFF. ©2018 Pinnacle Entertainment, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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november 2018

from the staff

|6|

from the PUBLIsher

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dIgItaL content

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feast tv

Good grains What’s online this month Fermented

dIne

TABLe oF CoNTeNTS PHoTo oF BLUe DoLL PUMPKINS FRoM DIFFeY’S PUMPKINS (P. 47) BY JeNNIFeR SILVeRBeRG

47

CoVeR PHoTo oF FIG AND PeAR TART (P. 74) BY AMANDA WILeNS

54 66 74

good gourd!

Fall is the busy season for Jack Diffey, who grows 107 different pumpkins, squash and gourds on his farm in Louisiana, Missouri.

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on trend

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one on one

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where we’re dInIng

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shoP here

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artIsan ProdUct

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one on one

Food halls

John Howard Hunter II of Castor River Farms 50/Fifty Kitchen, The Wheelhouse, KimChee Share Sweet Catalpa Small Batch Vinaigrette Karen T. Kirk of Lydia’s Ladle

drInk

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on trend

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one on one

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where we’re drInkIng

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shoP here

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artIsan ProdUct

At The Mill at Janie’s Farm, organic grain is grown and made into high-quality stone-ground flour.

| 28 |

the mIx

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on the sheLf

perfectly peared

cook

a taste of home

From a feast of tamales and arroz rojo to “Diwaligiving” dinner, three families show that what unites us on Thanksgiving is food cooked with love.

flour power

Freshen up your holiday table this season with fall’s most underused fruit.

| 32 | | 34 |

Brut IPAs

Sable Dixon of Fernweh Distilling Co. Lola Jean’s Giveback Coffee, Black Silo Winery, New Axiom Brewing Co. The Vineyard Market Heirloom Bottling Co. cherry-orange-spice syrup Stovetop cranberry cider What to drink this month

heaLthy aPPetIte

Sweet potato okonomiyaki mystery shoPPer

Parsley root

| 36 |

qUIck fIx

| 38 |

sweet Ideas

Sheet-pan pork chops with root vegetable dressing Pumpkin-cranberry bread with cinnamon streusel


Volume 8

| Issue 11 | November 2018

Vice President of niche Publishing, Publisher of feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

sales

director of sales

Angie Henshaw, ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 account Manager, st. louis region

Michele Russo, mrusso@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1297 account Manager, Kansas city region

Pete Nicklin, pnicklin@feastmagazine.com, 785.431.8025 account Manager, Kansas city region

Briana Craemer, bcraemer@feastmagazine.com, 913.708.1283 sPecial Projects editor

Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1244

eDITORIal senior editor

Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing editor

Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com digital editor

Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas city contributing editor

Jenny Vergara st. louis contributing editor

Mabel Suen fact checKer

Rose Hansen Proofreader

Erica Hunzinger contributing Writers

Christy Augustin, Tessa Cooper, Gabrielle DeMichele, Amanda Elliott, Becky Hardin, Hilary Hedges, Anne Marie Hunter, Justin Phelps, Lauren Smith, Jenn Tosatto, Shannon Weber, Amanda Wilens

aRT

art director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Production designer

Kelly Glueck, kglueck@feastmagazine.com contributing PhotograPhers

Zach Bauman, Angela Bond, Tessa Cooper, Judd Demaline, Curt Dennison, Becky Hardin, Travis Howard, Jacklyn Meyer, Annika Miller, Anna Petrow, Drew Piester, Elaine Rohde, Jennifer Silverberg , Madison Stringfellow, Mabel Suen, Emily Teater, Michelle Vandevender, Amanda Wilens

FeasT TV

producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

COnTaCT Us Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com

DIsTRIbUTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Eric Freeman for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at efreeman@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2018 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC

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For the Fermented episode of Feast TV, I made a spicy, soul-warming Korean-style stew with kimchi and tofu that will cure whatever ails you this winter. Find the easy-to-make recipe in the Feast TV section of feastmagazine.com.

publisher’s letter

M

ost of us don’t think about where flour comes from, how the wheat was grown or how it was milled. This Thanksgiving, we’ll pull our canisters out of the pantry, dust our counters and roll out pie dough, knead bread, cut out cookies and maybe even make sheets of fresh pasta. Flour is the main ingredient in all of those comfort-food staples, but rarely, if ever, do we consider the source. It’s just a pantry item that we reliably reach for on grocery-store shelves, choosing whatever type we need for a recipe, but probably not giving it much thought beyond that. In the 1860s, more than half of Americans were farmers, and they typically had small, diverse farms that integrated livestock with a number of crops, including grains. You had to mill those grains to make flour, and gristmills dotted the American landscape. There were dozens in Missouri alone. They were a place where farmers would bring their corn, wheat and other grains to be freshly stone-ground into flour and grits. These mills were gathering places where rural folks would trade stories and catch up on local news while huge millstones ground whole grains for farmers to take back home. As our food system became industrialized, the mills fell out of use in favor of the

cheaper, faster hammer mills or roller mills that are used in factories today. Now, as we reexamine the way our food is grown, processed and prepared, small-batch stone-ground flour is making a comeback. Senior editor Liz Miller met up with Harold Wilken to visit The Mill at Janie’s Farm, which supplies freshly milled flour to chefs and bakers. Harold’s stone-ground approach produces whole-grain flour that keeps the nutrition and flavor found in the grain intact. Chefs from Chicago to St. Louis to Kansas City are using Harold’s flours and his business is booming, creating jobs in the small Illinois town where the mill is based and proving that there is a market for freshly milled flour. Turn to p. 66 for Liz’s look at this innovative farmer who is committed to bringing fresh, whole grain flour back to our breads, pastas, cookies and pies, and just in time for the holiday season. That’s something to be thankful for. Until next time,

Catherine Neville


OIDEr

11.18

celebraTing The

amanda wilens St. Louis, Writer and Photographer

seasOn wiTh

friendsThis& familyyear?

“I’m delighted to be collaborating on another Thanksgiving feature with Feast. Fall is such an incredible and distinctive time of year for flavor profiles and ingredients – squash, apples and pumpkin-spice everything – but I especially enjoyed playing with pears, an ingredient that’s often overlooked on Thanksgiving. These recipes are all fairly easy and quick to prepare, making them perfect for holiday hosting. The pastry appetizers and tarts are great for serving during cocktail hour or to bring to a potluck; the pumpkin-pear soup is an ideal second course for dinner or an easy-to-assemble weeknight dinner. My favorite recipes, though, are always dessert, and this year, my pear mini pies were a standout. I even saved some of the crumble topping to use in other treats – or just atop a big scoop of ice cream. ” (Perfectly Peared, p. 74)

Make your MeMories ories extra tasty with any of our Mouth watering Meats. eats.

travis howard Branson, Missouri, Photographer “Walking into The Vineyard Market, you feel as though you’re entering a true California winery’s tasting room. Heather [Davis] and her team were welcoming from the start, and ready to dive right in, making sure we were able to walk away with images that really illustrate what they have to offer. From flights of wine and hosuemade flatbreads to the cigar-filled humidor, I was able to really immerse myself in the experience at The Vineyard Market. Hats off to The Vineyard Market, and a great shoot.” (Shop Here, p. 27)

jennifer silverberg St. Louis, Photographer “I’ve been photographing food and farms for more than a decade for advertising and editorial clients throughout the world. One of my favorite experiences, always, is spending time on family farms. Everyone at Diffey’s Pumpkins was so welcoming, generous and kind. And, of course, I left with an armful of pumpkins and squash – how could I resist? To see more of my work, visit my website at jennifersilverberg.com or my Instagram @jennsilverberg.” (Good Gourd!, p. 47)

®

anne marie hunter Kansas City, Writer “This article was more a learning than writing experience. My subjects, who are all immigrants, opened doors to their journeys, challenges and joys, as well as doors of welcome to their multicultural Thanksgiving tables. Through the eyes and hearts of my subjects, I became more poignantly aware of the legacy of our country’s one-of-a-kind holiday.” (A Taste of Home, p. 54)

sMokeHouse.CoM 32819 HigHway 87, California, Mo 65018 | 800-624-5426

find us at your loCal retailer, order online or Call us to purCHase for your restaurant. Inspired Local Food Culture

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STL

11/3

sCienCe UnCoRkeD Sat., Nov. 3, 7 to 10pm; $45 to $100; Saint Louis Science Center, 5050 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, Missouri; 314.289.4400; slsc.org/uncorked

Explore the science behind wine and spirits. The Saint Louis Science Center’s annual Science Uncorked event for adults ages 21 and up features 80-plus wine and spirit samplings, small plates, science demonstrations, live music and more. VIP experience available.

The Charming & Hilarious

Holiday Favorite STL

11/8

FooD Fight 2018 Thu., Nov. 8, 7 to 10pm; $25 to $65; Majorette, 7150 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, Missouri; eventsplus.cbsradio.com/stlouis/kmox/e/food-fight

Watch eight locally renowned chefs face off, then sample their dishes and vote for your favorite. Competing chefs include Rick Lewis of Grace Meat + Three, Tim Murphy of Blood & Sand, Simon Lusky of Revel Kitchen, Ryan McDonald of Good Fortune, Thu Rein Oo of The Crossing, Liz Schuster of West End Grill & Pub, Mandy Estrella of Alphateria and Plantain Girl and Lanikai Lindsey of Cinder House. VIP guests can enjoy happy hour from 6 to 7pm, two complimentary beverages and first-in -line sample access starting at 6:30pm. Food Fight is sponsored by Feast, Y98, KMOX and NOW96.3.

BY PHILIP GRECIAN • BASED ON THE MOTION PICTURE WRITTEN BY JEAN SHEPHERD, LEIGH BROWN & BOB CLARK • DIRECTED BY SETH GORDON

Family Nights WEDNESDAYS NOV. 28

DEC. 5

DEC. 12

• Arrive early for Selfies with Santa before the show.

NOV 28

• Goodie bags distributed after the show. (For kids age 12 and under, while supplies last)

THROUGH

DEC 23 REPSTL.ORG S .ORG

| 3 314-968-4925

Ralphie Parker’s quest to get a Red Ryder BB gun for Christmas returns to The Rep in all its heartwarming and hilarious glory. See the classic movie brought to life on stage!

REPSTL.ORG | 314-968-4925 8

feastmagazine.com

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KC

11/10

Rye Pie Demo Class Sat., Nov. 10, 3pm; $45 to $70; Rye Plaza, 4646 JC Nichols Parkway, Country Club Plaza, Kansas City, Missouri; 816.541.3382; ryepieclass.brownpapertickets.com

Get ready for Thanksgiving by seeing how the pastry team at Rye makes the perfect pie. Class includes a demo of pie, pie crust and other pie tips from Rye’s pastry chef, plus a 6-inch pie to take home. For an additional $25, you can take home a copy of Megan and Colby Garrelts’ Made in America cookbook.


STL

11/14

schnucks cooks: sheet-Pan Pork choPs With root Vegetable Dressing Wed., Nov. 14, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road, Des Peres; 314.909.1704; nourish.schnucks.com/schnucks-cooking-school

In this class, you’ll learn how to make quick-pickled apple slices to serve with a holiday cheese board. You’ll also learn how to make a seasonal roasted carrot soup to warm up chilly autumn evenings.

Thanksgiving Buffet Serving a variety of holiday favorites

Thursday, November 22nd, from 9am to 2pm to make your reservation: CALL (417) 832-1515 (ASK FOR DYLAN)

or EMAIL DRAUHOFF@HOTELVANDIVORT.COM STL

11/15

a Winter’s Dinner Thu., Nov. 15, 6:30 to 10:30pm; $150, $300 VIP; Ruth’s Chris Steak House at Hyatt Regency St. Louis at The Arch, 315 Chestnut St., St. Louis, Missouri; 314.881.3536; archpark.org/wintersdinner

Prepare your plates and palates for this unique culinary experience: A Winter’s Dinner returns for its second year at Ruth’s Chris Steak House located in the Hyatt Regency St. Louis at The Arch. Experience a deliciously prepared dinner accompanied by seasonally themed cocktails in an intimate winter wonderland setting. Tickets help support Gateway Arch Park Foundation.

RECLAIM YOUR WEEKEND AT WESTPORT PLAZA MO

12/1

WinterFest Sat., Dec. 1, 8am to 7pm; free; 400 W. Main St., Festus, Missouri; 636.937.6646; cityoffestus.org/296/winterfest

WinterFest is a family-friendly all-day event that helps to kick off the holiday season in Festus, Missouri. There will be breakfast and visits with Santa, inflatables, face painting, a petting zoo, carriage rides, ice skating, vendors selling holiday goods and more.

BACKSTREET JAZZ & BLUES | DINO’S DELI | DRUNKEN FISH EVEREST CAFE - COMING SOON! | FUNNY BONE COMEDY CLUB FUZZY’S TACO SHOP | GATEWAY NEWSTANDS | HATS-N-STUFF IMOS PIZZA | KOBE JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE | MCDONALD’S PAUL MINEO’S TRATTORIA | PLAYHOUSE @ WESTPORT PLAZA ROBATA WESTPORT - COMING SOON! | SHERATON AT WESTPORT SMOOTHIE KING | SAINT LOUIS BREAD COMPANY | STARBUCKS TRAINWRECK SALOON | WESTPORT SOCIAL

Intersection of I-270 and Page Avenue St. Louis, MO 314-576-7100 { westportstl.com }

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this month on

feastmagazine.com the feed

SPECIAL GIVEAWAY

-

Gringo is back. The Mexican-inspired restaurant, from Chris Sommers of Pi Pizzeria, has reopened in a new home in Downtown St. Louis, serving tacos, burritos, burgers and more alongside a full bar.

After years of pop ups, Progress has put down roots in Springfield, Missouri. Now open in Farmers Park, the restaurant serves shareable plates, interactive family-style meals and craft cocktails.

PhotograPhy by aPril FlEming

photo by aaron ottis

PhotograPhy by ana Elliott

PhotograPhy by mabEl SuEn

We’re giving away a pair of tickets to Food Fight at majorette in St. louis on thu., nov. 8! Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for all the details.

10

KC Love cozying up with a good book? Stop by the new Afterword Tavern & Shelves in Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District. Here, you’ll find a curated selection of books alongside bistro fare and craft cocktails.

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Earlier this year, Mike Pratt opened The Quarry, serving New Orleans-inspired Cajun fare in Columbia, Missouri. We caught up with him to find out about his restaurant roots, favorite indulgences around town and more.


Welcome fall with new menu.

Historic Hotels of America 325 Ward Parkway | Country Club Plaza 816.756.3800 | raphaelkc.com | chazontheplaza.com

waldo KCMO

LO C AT E D I N T H E H EA RT O F KA N SAS C ITY, WA LDO IS A WA LKA BLE, BI K EA BLE N E I GH B O RH O OD FI L LED W ITH TH E C ITY’S BEST - FR O M BO U TI Q U ES TO B A K ER I ES A N D DAY S PAS TO NIG HTLIFE.

WA L D O KC .O R G

Inspired Local Food Culture

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episode:

fermented ON THESE NETWORKS

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Mondays at 8:30pm.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Saturdays at 5:30pm and Sundays at 7:30am.

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Saturdays at 10am.

Fermented foods are bubbling up on grocery store shelves and restaurant menus. There are lots of delicious benefits to fermentation as well as byproducts of fermentation, namely alcohol. Host Cat Neville’s first stop is Mark Twain Brewery in Hannibal, Missouri, which crafts beers that nod to the city’s most famous citizen. Then we head to Fair Share Farm in Kearney, Missouri, where a farm-to-ferment line of products enhances the very successful CSA program. Our last stop is at Confluence Kombucha in St. Louis, where the chef uses a range of fermentation and preservation techniques to develop unique flavor and texture. In the kitchen, Cat uses Confluence kimchi to make a Korean-style soondubu stew sure to cure anything that ails you.

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) Mondays at 12:30pm.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

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Missouri Wines supports the more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.

Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. is dedicated to creating a memorable coffee experience for customers and guests via sustainable practices and education.

Ole Tyme Produce provides some of the finest produce in the St. Louis region, serving restaurants, hotels, food service and catering companies.

The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.

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Feast TV’s new season will air in the Springfield region on Ozarks Public Television. Check your local listings for airdates.

Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.


2018

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CELEBRATING KANSAS CIT Y AND GOOD OLD FASHIONED MIDWEST COOKING

Mo n d a y -Fr i d a y S e r v i n g : Br e a k f a s t 7 -1 1 a m Lu n c h 1 1 a m -3 p m Ha p p y Ho u r 3 - 6 p m Di n n e r b e g i n n i n g a t 5 p m n i g h t l y Sa t u r d a y & Su n d a y Br u n c h 9 : 3 0 a m -3 p m No w Bo o k i n g Pr i v a t e Di n i n g & Ca t e r i n g Or d e r To - Go , Wh o l e Pi e s , & Ba ke s h o p Sp e c i a l t i e s 4646 J C Nichols Pkwy Kansas City, MO (816) 541-3382 www.r yekc.com Complementar y Garage Parking or Valet Optional

*Visit our original location Rye Leawood at 10551 Mission Rd. Leawood, KS 66206 (913) 642-5800

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pie it forward

Lydia's Ladle makes sweet and savory pies to aid victims of domestic violence in St. Louis on p. 20. photography by Madison stringfellow


mother clucker VildhÄst

sura eats

food halls

Consider the food hall the grown-up version of the mall food court of your youth. These sprawling spaces allow diners to take their pick from a wide array of fast-casual mini-restaurants serving everything from street tacos, gyros and Japanese dumplings to coffee, cold-pressed juice and craft beer. Tourists have long flocked to Philadelphia’s Reading Terminal Market and New York City’s Chelsea Market and now, the trend is spreading across the country: The number of food halls coast to coast is predicted to triple by 2020. Written By HeatHer riske

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PHotograPHy By zacH Bauman

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The eaTery

Lenexa PubLic MarkeT

ST. LOUIS. after a $2.5 million renovation, The Eatery opened in a 10,000-square-foot space on the ground floor of the one metropolitan square building in Downtown st. Louis in January. the food hall has quickly become a favorite for quick, tasty weekday lunches for Downtown workers; diners can choose from korean-inspired tacos, burritos and rice bowls at kimcheese; gyros, wraps and pita pizzas from Dino’s Deli; paninis and salads from arista gourmet or poke bowls from Hiro Poké co.

LENEXA, KS. Last fall, Lenexa Public Market introduced the kansas city area to its first food hall. Located on the ground floor of Lenexa city Hall, it offers local chefs and makers a place to incubate, grow or launch their business. Pop-up leases are available, so vendors change frequently, but permanent options include Japanese gyoza from chewology Dumpling & Dough, smoked meats from mad man’s kc BBQ, custom-made options from topp’d Pizza + salads and indian and Pakistani fare from sohaila’s kitchen.

1 Metropolitan Square, St. Louis, Missouri, onemetropolitansquare.com

8750 Penrose Lane, Lenexa, Kansas, lenexapublicmarket.com


KS Celebrity chef tom Colicchio made national headlines when he announced he’d be opening a 40,000-square-foot food hall as part of the new The Gateway project in Mission, Kansas. Set to open in 2020, the food hall will bring together a mix of national and local chefs, restaurateurs, mixologists and food-and-drink producers. STL When it opens in 2020, City Foundry, the massive $240 million, 350,000-square-foot-space located just east of the Cortex innovation Community in St. Louis, will feature offices and retail space in addition to a food hall with 20 stalls. anchoring the food hall will be locations of alamo drafthouse and Punch Bowl Social; local vendors include smashed burgers and brick oven pizzas from Lost & Found, a Burger and Pizza Joint; cold-pressed juice from Juice Box Central; street tacos from essentially tacos; hummus and wraps from Sumax and more.

ON

NE

Coming Soon

N EO O

mo

q&A

john howard hunter ii

farmer and owner, castor river farms Written By Liz MiLLer

|

PhotograPhy By eLaine rohde

DEXTER, MO. Located near the Castor river in southeast Missouri, Castor River Farms has been in the hunter family for three generations. today, John howard hunter ii is building upon that tradition by growing and milling high-quality rice in a way that preserves soil health and conservation. in 2016, he was named the Soil Conservationist of the year by the Conservation Federation of Missouri and the 2016 environmental Steward of the year by the Missouri department of agriculture, even before he launched his new business. he debuted Castor river’s first two products earlier this year – white and brown rice – and both are now sold across Missouri, including at more than 40 hy-Vee stores across the state, 20 Price Chopper and hen house locations in the Kansas City area and Local harvest grocery and annie gunn’s Smokehouse Market in the St. Louis area. this holiday season, hunter encourages home cooks to try his family’s recipe for herbed rice, which pairs well with turkey or ham. Visit Castor river’s website for the recipe, as well as winter-perfect rice recipes like gumbo, jambalaya and red beans and rice.

You’re the third generation in your family to operate the farm. Tell us about that history. the neat part about our family is the legacy through each generation. My grandfather, Furg hunter – his legacy to his children was that he transformed unimproved swampland into farmland. My father, John hunter Sr., precision-leveled that ground, further improved drainage and installed irrigation. My contribution is in carrying on soil-conservation practices that have been in my family for generations and going beyond those to build soil health. My personal impact is that i’ve brought what i like to call conservation agriculture to the land on a widespread basis. our farm is 100-percent no-till; we believe that tillage leads to soil degradation. We’re also 100-percent cover cropped [for] erosion prevention and a host of other soil benefits. We believe that soil is our most precious resource on the farm. Tell us about the varieties of rice that you grow. We grow a very specific variety that

has adapted to our style of farming; with this rice, we’re able to use less water and less fertilizer versus other varieties.

Parlor KANSAS CITY. Parlor, which opened in a two-story, 18,000-square-foot

red-brick building in Kansas City’s Crossroads arts district in September, is designed as a culinary incubator for up-and-coming chefs and restaurant concepts. in addition to two full-service bars, rotating restaurants include Mother Clucker (nashville-style hot chicken), Vildhäst (Scandinavian street food from the owners of Krokstrom Klubb & Market), Sura eats (Korean-style bowls), Farm to Market Sandwich Co. (sandwiches on locally made bread), Karbón (yucatan and Middle eastern-inspired dishes) and Providence Pizza (detroit-, Sicilian-, neapolitan- and new york-style pies). 1707 Locust St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, parlorkcmo.com

From the field, the rice is harvested by the combine, then goes to our grain storage facility, which is next to our rice mill. White and brown [rice] are the same variety – the only difference is how much of the milling process the rice kernels go through. rice kernels go through the husking process, separating the husks from the kernels; at that point, you have brown rice. if we want to make brown rice, at that stage we’ll bypass what’s called the whitening cylinder, a stone cylinder that spins around and around and removes the bran [to make] white rice. We’re not doing any bleaching, coloring or adding anything unnatural. What’s been the response from customers so far? a lot of people are surprised that we even grow rice in Missouri, and Missouri is actually no. 4 in the country for rice production. So we’re educating people not only about our food and our process, but about agriculture in general, which is really fun. We go out and do [cooking] demos – serve our rice and show different dishes it can go with – and it’s especially satisfying to see kids get to taste our rice and like it. Dexter, Missouri, castorriverfarms.com

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where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.

50/FiFTy KiTchen Story and photography MabeL Suen

ST. LOUIS. a new dinner destination in St. Louis’ northampton neighborhood celebrates myriad diets. owner bob Madden came up with the idea for his restaurant 50/Fifty Kitchen – half vegetarian, half not – after being inspired by the versatility of plant-based fare and hoping to share vibrant flavors with friends. When he found that his carnivorous companions didn’t necessarily want to visit the same restaurants he did, he wanted to own a concept to cater to both palates. Selections from the seasonal menu include small plates such as smoked-lentil tacos and pink-pesto pasta, which is linguine tossed with beet pesto and topped with pistachio, parsley and goat cheese. entrées include crunchy salmon and orzo tossed with kale, Missouri-grown teardrop tomatoes and lemon-basil vinaigrette. yellow vegetable curry is another large plate on offer, featuring chickpeas, tomato, potato, carrot, cauliflower, bell pepper and peas – proof positive that 50/Fifty is a great place for lovers of meat or vegetables to meet.

3723 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri, 50-fiftykitchen.com

The Wheelhouse Story and photography by teSSa Cooper

SPRINGFIELD, MO. as fall turns into winter, it can get a bit chilly for food trucks. Luckily, The Wheelhouse, a Springfield, Missouri, Mexican-asian food truck, has put down roots in the sunny lobby of Vīb, a boutique hotel concept from best Western. the Wheelhouse serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, so guests can linger with a laptop while savoring b+b boulangerie pastries and Keen bean coffee, grab the pork pad thai to go or unwind with peanut-chicken tacos and a cocktail. the menu also features some of the food truck’s popular specials including garlic lo mein, lemon chicken and a rotating selection of spring rolls. owner-operators Melissa, Zach and Steven Smallwood work together to create unique spice blends for each dish, and they use local ingredients when possible; the café’s bar serves cocktails made with fresh juices, housemade simple syrups and high-quality spirits.

1845 E. Sunshine St., Springfield, Missouri, wheelhousefood.com

Kimchee Written by Jenny Vergara

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photography by anna petroW

KANSAS CITY. KimChee, a new Korean-american café in

Midtown Kansas City, is a playful mix of the two cuisines that have most influenced owner Scott trout, who is half Korean and half american himself. KimChee givens an introduction to Korean food's unique flavors by sliding some of them into classic american dishes. guests will enjoy more traditional Korean dishes like bibimbap, a hearty rice dish topped with kimchi and vegetables and your choice of protein, along with less-traditional creations such as the KimChee bLt made with Korean-spiced pork belly with slices of fresh tomato, shredded napa cabbage and housemade aïoli on a French roll. or try the chicken wings battered in Korean spices and served with thai-basil-chile sauce. the drink menu features plenty of local brews, a few wines and soju, a clear grain-based Korean spirit. 3107 Gillham Road, Kansas City, Missouri, orderkimcheekc.com

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Gather for a special occasion in a very special place.

Share Sweet

Now hosting Kansas City’s corporate, philanthropic and social private events.

Story, recipe and photography by Mabel Suen

OLIVETTE, MO. a new sweet spot has popped up in olivette, Missouri. Share Sweet debuted in august, featuring traditional asian desserts as well as eats such as waffles, mousse cups, honey toast piled high with sweet toppings and a variety of refreshing beverages including bubble milk tea. the concept comes from Shanghai native horace tang, who also owns local chinese eatery tang palace. the extensive menu features signatures such as the hope, a whimsical parfait that looks like a potted plant, with oreo cookie-crumbs acting as the “dirt” atop tiers of fresh berries, mousse, cake and strawberry jam. For a classic chinese-style dessert, try the shop’s popular herb jelly topped with your choice of honey or red beans, boba and housemade taro balls. pair sweets with a drink of your choice for the ultimate sugar fix.

9628 Olive Blvd., Olivette, Missouri, sharesweetstl.com

n a rt i sa ct produ

www.stlgrace.com @gracemeatthree x 314.533.2700

816.245.7331 theamericankc.com

the best italian “on the hill”

catalpa small batch vinaigrette Written by nancy StileS

| photo by kelly glueck

ARROW ROCK, MO. chef liz huff’s acclaimed arrow rock, Missouri, restaurant, Catalpa, isn’t open year-round, but now fans can get a taste anytime they want. this month, huff debuted a peach-lemon-tarragon salad dressing, which she bottles herself in the catalpa kitchen during the off-season. keep an eye out for future flavors like pesto-parmesan-peppercorn, greek balsamic, and peanut-ginger-lime vinaigrette, which is made with logboat brewing co. Shiphead ginger wheat beer. catalpa salad dressing is available for purchase online, locally at arrow rock antiques and at select stores in columbia, Missouri; huff hopes to expand distribution to kansas city and St. louis next year.

catalparestaurant.com

Happy Holidays from our family to yours Free $30 giFt certiFicate Valid January, February, March 2019

For every $100 giFt card purchase

Can be any combination totalingg $100, $25 min., Byy 12/29/18 Gift cards can be purchased at the restaurant or online at favazzas.com 5201 southwest avenue | st. louis, Mo 314-772-4454 | www.favazzas.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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karen t. kirk executive director, lydia’s house

q&A

Written By nAncy StileS

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PhotogrAPhy By MAdiSon StringfelloW

ST. LOUIS. At Lydia’s Ladle, the

social-enterprise kitchen from Lydia’s House, a St. Louis nonprofit, victims of domestic violence are able to gain useful job skills and build their résumés while working in a positive environment built around flexible schedules. Lydia’s House executive director Karen T. Kirk launched Lydia’s Ladle in 2013 with help from volunteers and donors. After acclaimed chef Lou Rook III of Annie’s Gunn in Chesterfield, Missouri, won their chicken pot pie contest, Kirk worked with Tony’s pastry chef Helen Fletcher to develop a version of the recipe for Lydia’s Ladle. The frozen pie is available in the St. Louis area at Dierberg’s and Straub’s stores as well as City Greens Market and Annie Gunn’s Smokehouse Market. Proceeds help Lydia’s House provide transitional housing and resources such as education, employment support, day care and more to women and children escaping domestic violence. Why did you want to start a social-enterprise kitchen at Lydia’s House? After I was hired as executive director, I noticed that women with children had the hardest time trying to find employment around their children’s school schedules. I thought, this is perfect for our women who have children, because what I can do is develop operating hours around making chicken pot pies in our kitchen, selling those to employ our women and to start building their self-esteem, self-confidence, résumés and skills so they can get back out into the workplace after being a victim of domestic violence. Mothers can stay at home with their children in the morning, feed them breakfast, get them to school, then come to work. And we have those women back home to get their children off the bus. Why chicken pot pies? [Local farmer Ben Roberts] wanted to give us vegetables from his garden and freerange eggs from his chickens to help meet the needs of the women and children who we house here. It’s like, ‘OK, what do we have at our disposal?’ We sat down and talked, and [Roberts] mentioned chicken pot pie. We knew we could get a lot of the ingredients in at no cost, and who doesn’t love a good chicken pot pie in the winter? What’s the customer response been like so far? We were actually kind of overwhelmed with the response. We’ve grown; we’ve moved into our own kitchen from a shared-use kitchen at Saint Louis University, because we needed more space. We developed another pie called the Very Berry Pie, and it’s absolutely delicious, with a cream cheese crust. So we’re developing other products to help with that off-season. We’re looking at the future of being able to produce more. How have the women at Lydia’s House responded to the program? I think probably the most important piece of this project is what happens when there’s domestic violence. It’s all about power and control, and most of the time you lose all of your self-esteem and self-confidence when you’re going through physical, psychological, emotional or financial abuse. What we’ve found with this employment, being able to go back to work really helps bring that self-confidence back, and being able to go out and work in restaurants – it’s very important. They go in already certified and knowing the skills, so it helps them go after a better income. lydiashouse.org/lydias-ladle

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[

SwEEt ON POtAtOES

]

BeaureguarD

iN GOOD with

Why sWeet potatoes are Worth rooting for With Dr. graham ColDitz

associate director of prevention and control at Siteman Cancer Center November ushers in the holidays, bringing with it a bounty of seasonal food ready to take its place at the table. Sweet potatoes seem tailor-made for fall: Their deep golden insides recall the color of blazing autumn leaves, and they lend a sugary note to the savory dishes everyone craves during the colder months. And — when they’re not buried under mounds of brown sugar and marshmallows — they are exceptionally healthy. “Sweet potatoes are packed with nutrition, which make them a great food for around the holidays when our meals can steer toward the unhealthy,” says Dr. Graham Colditz, associate director of prevention and control at Siteman Cancer Center. Besides being a great source of dietary fiber and vitamins B6, A and C, they’re also low in sodium, cholesterol and saturated fat. Fat in particular is a culprit that seems to lurk around every cornucopia this time of year. Even when a side dish’s main ingredient is a vegetable — such as creamed spinach or sweet potato casserole — the rest of the recipe can be problematic. “The bottom line on a lot of fats is that they come as part of food preparation as opposed to being in the food itself, where the fat is part of the product. In fried vegetables, cookies, breads and baked goods, we get fats as add-ons,” Dr. Colditz explains. Though we most commonly associate sweet potatoes with their trademark golden orange hue, these root vegetables come in other colors too, such as yellow and purple.These colors do more than just make sweet potatoes dazzle on the plate.They’re indicative of sweet

potatoes’ high levels of antioxidants, such as vitamins A and C, which can help with healing processes in the body and also aid in healthy cell development, Dr. Colditz says. Vegetables that are paler in color — such as iceberg lettuce, corn and white potatoes — share fewer of these crucially important attributes. Unlike white potatoes, sweet potatoes have a lower glycemic index (GI), a number that indicates how quickly the body transforms carbohydrates into glucose. “Molecularly, sweet potatoes are a more complex structure,” Dr. Colditz says, explaining that low GI foods digest at a slower rate. Evidence suggests that slower digestion lowers the risk of chronic diseases that develop over time, such as heart disease and diabetes. Sweet potatoes also contain more than twice the fiber found in white potatoes. “Fiber aids in a healthy digestive tract and helps you feel fuller for longer, so it may reduce your snack cravings,” he says. When it comes to preparation, sweet potatoes are delicious on their own, without the addition of extra fat and sugar. “Some of the best and healthiest sweet potato dishes are also the simplest,” Dr. Colditz says. “Cut sweet potatoes into smaller pieces, lightly brush with olive oil, then roast or grill them. They can also be added to salads and burritos, and used in many dishes in place of red meat. Or make sweet potato fries: You can easily bake them at home with a little oil as a way to get all of their benefits without deep-frying them,” Colditz says. All are excellent ways to fête the fall without the fat.

Fall Sweet Potato HaSH witH Farro Yields | 4 hALF-CUp SErVINGS |

2 ½ ½ ¼

sweet potatoes, diced yellow onion, diced cup farro, dry cup walnuts

½ ½ ¼ 2

tsp salt tsp pepper tsp pumpkin pie spice Tbsp olive oil

| preparation | Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss sweet potatoes and onions with 1 tablespoon olive oil, and the salt and pepper. Place onto a baking sheet. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes. Bring 1 cup of water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add farro and bring to a boil. Once boiling, decrease the heat to low, then simmer for about 10 minutes. Using a skillet, warm 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat. Add cooked potatoes, onions, walnuts, farro and pumpkin pie spice. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve as a side dish, or mix with ground turkey or chicken sausage for a delicious fall meal. Nutrition Information| 310kcal, 17g fat, 374mg sodium, 35g carbohydrate, 5g fiber, 6g protein

Among the most popular sweet potatoes on the market, Beaureguards are rosy on the outside, orange on the inside and impart a buttery taste to dishes from mains to desserts. Beaureguards are a robust, prolific crop, resistant to disease and able to take root almost anywhere – including northern climates, where the growing seasons are often short and severe. The more sun Beaureguards are exposed to as they grow the sweeter they become, so their taste may vary from year to year and from region to region.

garnet Garnet sweet potatoes – sometimes also referred to as red yams – are a great middleof-the-road option. They taste a bit like pumpkin, are starchy but moist, and they find harmony between earthy and sweet. Besides vitamin C, Garnets are loaded with fiber, iron and potassium. Look to garnet sweet potatoes for making french fries; their dense texture will hold up well whether baked or fried.

hannah Long and slender, with tapered ends and creamy white or pale yellow insides, hannah sweet potatoes are reminiscent of russet potatoes. Like russets, they stay firm after they’re cooked and have a dry texture that works well when mashed. Though they could replace traditional potatoes in many recipes, keep in mind that hannahs are still sweet: Mashing or baking them with savory herbs like sage or garlic will provide an excellent counterbalance.

JeWel Jewel sweet potatoes — the ones that consumers most often see in grocery stores — reign as the United States’ most popular. They are sometimes called “jewel yams,” but that’s a misnomer. These are moist and starchy, so they’re great whether steamed or baked, and they mash easily. With light brown skin and autumn-gold insides, Jewels aren’t as sweet as other varieties, so they are commonly spiked with brown sugar and crowned with marshmallows for that quintessential holiday dish, the sweet potato casserole.

stokes purple There’s nothing subtle about the color of this sweet potato. Its flesh is a deep, vibrant purple, a bold contrast to the season’s dominant gold and red color palette. Stokes purple sweet potatoes are packed with anthocyanin — the antioxidant that gives them their striking color — and have numerous health benefits. Not only are they high in vitamin C, but they also reduce inflammation and boost heart health. Though Stokes’ brilliant color intensifies as they cook, their taste actually mellows Local Food Culture nov e mbe r 2 018 21 outInspired and becomes less sweet. Use them in savory dishes.


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grape expectations

Sip a glass of wine and snack on seasonal sandwiches while perusing the selection at The Vineyard Market in Ozark, Missouri, on p. 27. photography by travis howard


Broadway Brewery COLUMBIA, MO. When it came time to

determine the next beer in Broadway Brewery’s experimental iPa series, director of marketing harry katz says the decision was an easy one. broadway’s brut iPa is traditional to the – albeit new – style; it’s dry and crisp with lots of hop aroma from nelson sauvin, el Dorado and Vic secret hops. the beer is low in bitterness, which katz says makes it an easy sell for beer drinkers who might not think they like iPas. “i think it’s the next new england iPa,” he says. “Whereas the new england iPa is hazy, the brut is a little more nuanced. i think you’re going to see a lot more of them in the next couple months.” 816 E. Broadway, Columbia, Missouri, broadwaybrewery.com

2nd Shift Brewing

brut ipas In winemaking, the term brut typically refers to a dry Champagne or sparkling wine with little to no residual sugar. However, it’s found its way into the craft-beer world: The brut IPA is a bone-dry, light-bodied, Champagnelike version of the style. Brewmaster Kim Sturdavant of Social Kitchen & Brewery in San Francisco is credited with inventing the brut IPA; now, brewers across the country are experimenting with their takes on the brand-new style. Written by heather riske

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PhotograPhy by annika miller

ST. LOUIS. it shouldn’t come as a shock that 2nd Shift Brewing co-owner libby Crider was immediately drawn to the brut iPa style. a sommelier by trade, she loves that the beer emulates the dryness of brut Champagne. the st. louis brewery’s brut iPa, whose debut batch was made in collaboration with transient artisan ales in michigan, quickly sold out in cans. Crider describes it as a crisp beer with the mouthfeel of an ale and a nice juicy hop profile thanks to some amarillo and idaho 7 hops. “it’s a super clean, simple style,” she says. “i just wanted to do something different – we’re a brewery that’s not afraid to experiment.”

1601 Sublette Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 2ndshiftbrewing.com

Boulevard Brewing Co. KANSAS CITY. at Boulevard Brewing Co. in kansas City, ambassador brewer Jeremy Danner thinks that brut iPas can change some beer-drinkers’ minds about iPas in general. “i dig the lower bitterness; i think that’s why so many people have fallen in love with new england iPas,” he says. “For people who say they don’t like hoppy beers, it’s more approachable and it kind of changes their mind about iPas and what they can be.” boulevard first released its brut iPa over the summer at the brewery’s Crossroads arts District beer hall, where the new beer was described to guests in three quick phrases: “super dry,” “low bitterness” and “high carbonation.” last month, the beer hit shelves in boulevard’s new blVr&D six packs of experimental iPas.

2534 Madison Ave., Kansas City, Missouri, boulevard.com

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mo

q&A

sable dixon

marketing director, fernweh distilling co. Written by Liz MiLLer

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PhotograPhy by curt dennison

HERMANN, MO. in august 2017, Fernweh Distilling Co. debuted its tasting room and distillery in a renovated historic building in hermann, Missouri. Founded by brothers andrew and tim Weiss and sable dixon, Fernweh aims to bring a different kind of craft distillery to one of Missouri’s most historic wine regions, with help from tim and andrew’s parents, tim and colleen Weiss. the portfolio of spirits currently includes a young bourbon whiskey, straight rye whiskey, wheat whiskey and bourbon mash moonshine.

The distillery is housed in a historic space; tell us about the renovation before opening. the building was in very poor condition when we purchased it, and the owners, andrew’s parents, invested a lot of money into restoring it. i think it was kind of a service to the city. everybody was really excited about the idea of a distillery in hermann, because the wineries have been here since the beginning. We’re not so connected to the history of hermann, but to the future growth of the town. Why did you choose to focus Fernweh’s portfolio on whiskeys? We tossed around the idea of doing a vodka or gin, because that’s really easy to make and get out there, but our passion is whiskey; that’s what we wanted to create and that’s what we stuck with. We were able to [open the distillery with aged products] because we have some friends in Virginia who helped us in the distilling process before we were able to start [distilling] in our building. We’re so excited about our [straight] bourbon [debuting in october 2019] because that’s a spirit we’ve actually made here in hermann with our little distillery. that’s our passion and what’s most exciting about what we do – being able to create something that’s delicious and up to our bourbon standards. Tell us about the cocktail menu in the tasting room. The cocktails are 100-percent

handcrafted. We believe in all of the small details when it comes to a cocktail… the end result is only as good as the ingredients. one of our best-selling cocktails is the rhythm and rye, with rye whiskey infused with organic chamomile flowers. it gives it a little bit of an earthy, floral flavor, and then we mix that with a housemade sour and strawberry simple syrup and a bit of bubbly to lighten and brighten the concoction for those who may not typically enjoy a whiskey, but are feeling adventurous enough to branch out and try something new with us. What inspires the food served at Fernweh? We’ve been collecting feedback on menus for the past year and seeing what’s well accepted in our area – not just by locals, but by tourists – and i think [our current menu] is a good balance of items. We have new items like a vegan item, actually, which i’m happy to say has gotten great feedback – it’s a Mediterranean quinoa bowl. What has been the most exciting part of your first year of business? When we opened, we had such a warm welcome from the town of hermann – from people who live here and tourists as well. the most rewarding part is hearing that customers are thrilled with what we’re doing. 4 Schiller St., Hermann, Missouri, fernwehdistilling.com

Upcoming Events Grapes to Glass November 10th VIP Winery Tour & Tasting Kristkindl Markt December 1st & 2nd Traditional German Christmas market with crafts & goodies Beast Feast December 7th Dinner of wild game and a Silent & Live Auction with proceeds donated to LLS

FREE HISTORIC CELLAR TOURS Purchase event tickets & wine online

Hermann, MO • 800.909.9463 • stonehillwinery.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops. Black Silo Winery Written by nancy StileS PhotograPhy by Michelle VandeVender

TRENTON, MO. Just north of Kansas city, husband-and-wife team Jenn hottes and duane Urich operate Black Silo Winery in a picturesque area of trenton, Missouri, known as green hills. the winery is popular for weddings, and it isn’t hard to see why: enjoy live music as you sip wines that pay homage to Missouri’s outlaw history – like the Jesse James dry chambourcin and the Silver dollar dry white blend – under the shadow of the eponymous black silo, which sits among the grapevines in the vineyard. black Silo launched in 2010 with just 1 acre of grapes; today, hottes and Urich grow 7½ acres worth, including chambourcin, Vignoles and Vidal blanc, for black Silo’s portfolio of 12 wines. Keep an eye out next month for the sixth annual Wine, Women and Shopping event hosted at the winery, featuring local artisans, bakers and more.

4030 E. 10th St., Trenton, Missouri, blacksilowinery.com

neW axiom BreWing co. Written by Jenny Vergara

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PhotograPhy by zach baUMan

LEE’S SUMMIT, MO. Four homebrewers are the brains behind New Axiom Brewing Co. in lee’s

lola Jean’S giveBack coffee Written by Mabel SUen

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PhotograPhy by eMily teater

ST. LOUIS. a temporary pop-up coffee shop in St. louis’ Southampton neighborhood enables its customers to grab their daily cup of joe completely in support of a good cause. Lola Jean’s Giveback Coffee is a collaborative charitable concept from russell Ping of russell’s cafe & bakery in conjunction with Kaldi’s coffee roasting co. all proceeds from the café become donations to nonprofits. Past recipients, for instance, include habitat for humanity and the children’s organ transplant association. Ping offers his signature sweet and savory pastries at the satellite storefront alongside a beverage program featuring Kaldi’s roasts as well as specialties such as house-made lemonade with a hint of vanilla. choose from drip or pour-over coffee, cold brew on tap, traditional espresso drinks, chai or matcha lattes and Firepot loose-leaf teas. coffee drinks can also get a subtle flavor boost from housemade syrup blends such as vanilla bean, lemon-mint, orange-rosemary-black pepper and a signature fall blend with orange zest, cinnamon, nutmeg and other spices – a warm way to give back to the community.

5400 Nottingham Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, lolajeanscoffee.com

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Summit, Missouri. Mac lamken, Joe Migletz, devin glaser and Sean householder blended their various brewing styles to ensure they have something on tap for everyone to enjoy. the almost 3,000-square-foot former office complex has been transformed into a shiny new tasting room featuring a dual three-barrel brewhouse producing iPas, stouts, lagers, saisons and even sours. Plans are also in place to start mead and cider production once new axiom gets its winery license. check the menu boards to see what the team is pouring on the rotating 24-tap system, such as the Juan Moore Mexican lager, breakfast of champions coffee stout and grisette nouveau, a grisette-style saison. With room to serve 100 people, this place was built for families and pets both inside or on the outdoor patio, which overlooks a pretty pond for an unexpected, serene view. no food is sold on-site, but feel free to bring your own, or hit the food trucks parked outside every Friday and Saturday night waiting to take your order. 949 NE Columbus St., Lee's Summit, Missouri, newaxiombrewco.com


your favorite

Double WooD is now

TWIN TIMBERS

The Vineyard MarkeT Written by nancy StileS

|

BOURBON

photoS by traviS hoWard

OZARK, MO. heather davis realized a 15-year dream when she opened The Vineyard Market in ozark, Missouri, in June, just across the street from the famous lambert’s cafe. the chic shop features retail wines, a humidor, wine bar, bakery and café, plus wine-themed gifts and gift crates. browse and buy a bottle of wine from her curated selection and drink it at the bar (sans corkage fee) or order a wine flight or create your own. the vineyard Market also features live music and has a family-style table big enough for large parties and celebrations. the café offers rotating food items like brisket and a fire-roasted veggie flatbread, seafood chowder and a strawberry-turkey croissant sandwich with a wine-infused spread, plus seasonal salads like the dry italian salami with dill havarti, fire-roasted artichoke hearts and pistachios. davis is on hand to help you pick the perfect wine pairing; grab cigars or a gift on your way out.

new name. Same pecan finiSh. woodhatspirits.com

nOW bOOkIng hOLIDaY paRtIES

1759 W. State Highway J, Ozark, Missouri, thevineyardmarket.com

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heirloom bottling co. cherry-orange-spice syrup Written by heather riSke

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photo by kelly glueck

ST. LOUIS. if your bar cart needs an upgrade, look no further than Heirloom Bottling Co. brad Zulick’s company, which launched in St. louis last year, produces cocktail shrubs and syrups in creative flavors like blueberry-sage, lime-peppercorn, peach-jalapeño, grapefruit-ginger-vanilla and pineapple-allspice. this winter, mix up drinks with the brand-new cherry-orange-spice syrup made with sour cherries, orange peel and winter baking spices like star anise, allspice, cinnamon and clove, plus black pepper. try subbing it in for vermouth in a Manhattan or an old Fashioned for a fun holiday twist on a classic. heirloom products are available at St. louis-area specialty shops such as local harvest grocery and larder & cupboard, and restaurants and bars throughout St. louis; Zulick also plans to launch online sales this month.

DInnER

Friday and Saturday evenings from 5pm-8pm

WInERY hOuRS:

Lunch

Wednesday through Sunday from 11am-4pm Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday – 11am-6pm Friday – 11am-10pm | Saturday – 11am-8pm

12237 Peter Moore Lane | DeSoto, MO 63020 636-586-2777 | info@lachancevineyards.com Like us on Facebook

heirloombottling.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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Story, recipe and photography by becky hardin

stovetop Cranberry Cider You can easily halve this recipe if you’re not serving a large party. SerVeS | 20 |

4 2 3 2 2 1 2

quarts spiced apple cider (128 oz) quarts cranberry juice (64 oz) whole cloves cinnamon sticks, plus more for garnish oranges, sliced, plus more for garnish cup fresh or frozen cranberries apples, sliced and deseeded

| preparation | in a large stockpot or dutch oven, combine all ingredients. bring to a rolling boil for 5 minutes. reduce heat to simmer and cover, 30 to 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Using a slotted spoon, remove cloves and cinnamon sticks; transfer to a slow cooker to keep warm for a party, or serve warm directly from stovetop. garnish each serving with an orange slice and cinnamon stick and serve.

Stovetop Cranberry Cider This stovetop cranberry cider is the ideal recipe to warm up cold autumn nights. Sip it by the fire while gathering together for the holidays or even just after a long day. It makes a warming sip, and making it also fills your home with the delicious aromas of fall. Anytime we have people over for a fall get-together, you’re sure to find this cider on the stove. When we head to holiday parties, I love to bring it along in a slow cooker. The addition of cranberry juice makes it a bit unique and extra festive, rather than a more traditional apple cider. This recipe is alcohol-free, but add 1 to 2 cups of bourbon or vodka to taste after reducing to a simmer if you really need to warm up.

Becky Hardin is the recipe developer, photographer and writer behind thecookierookie.com. Her work has been featured on sites such as The Huffington Post, The New York Times and Better Homes and Gardens. Her recipes and photography have been featured in print in publications such as Women's World Magazine, Redbook and Family Circle. She is a self-taught cook who loves to create recipes anyone can make and everyone will love.

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on The shelf : november PIcks

WINE

eAgles' lAnding’s 2017 OzArk highlAnds st. Vincent written by Hilary Hedges

Provenance: st. James, Missouri PaIrIngs: Goat cheese • Pork chops • Roasted chicken

Eagles’ Landing in st. James, Missouri, takes an old-world approach to winemaking and treats the St. Vincent grape like a classic Pinot noir. the winery is run by a chemist and a sommelier: Minimal interventionists in the cellar, they hope to help showcase the quality of the fruit from local grape growers. the grapes for this wine come from the ozark Highlands aVa, part of the multi-state ozark Mountain aVa. it has an intense, elevated acidity, making it a great wine for pairing with food, and is bursting with red fruit flavors like cherry, raspberry and cranberry. the wine is available at the eagles’ landing tasting room, located inside Just a taste restaurant in st. James.

2018

Your

New Season

Favorite

BEST WINERY St. Louis region

inTense spice proFile wiTh noTes oF clove spice, ToasTed cinnamon, and apple FragranT noTes oF lavender and vanilla spice Finish wiTh a mild smoke characTer

eagleslandingwine.com Hilary Hedges worked at Amigoni Urban Winery for more than five years as the director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker. She's currently a freelance wine writer, and marketing manager for a local nonprofit.

BEER

2017 World Mead Challenge

Gold Medal

Winner

destihl Brewery's crAnBerry criek wRitten by JuStin PhelPS

sT sTyle: sour ale with cranberry and cherry (5% abV) PaIrIngs: thanksgiving dinner • Cheesecake Pa

b geeks are always looking for the perfect brew to bring to a holiday beer meal. a sour beer may seem out of place for a dinner with so many flavors, but when it comes to cleansing your palate between bites, Destihl Brewery Brewery’s Cranberry Criek is a great option. the use of cranberry and black cherry purées in the recipe will make this is an obvious pairing for cranberry sauce, but it complements a range of flavors. when jumping from green beans to mashed potatoes to gravy-soaked turkey, sipping this tart beer between bites will act as a pleasing palate cleanser. if you want pair with a single dish, sip it with a cheesecake for dessert.

A traditional Mead

made entirely from 100% USA Lucerne blossom honey. W I N E R Y

For information regarding Weddings/Private Events, email us at info@wildsunwinery.com

Winery Hours:

Thursday: 12-6pm Friday: 10am-6pm

saTurday: 10am-6pm sunday: 12-6pm

Find us in stores near you!

1623 Old IrOn rd.|Hermann, mO |573.486.0236

4830 Pioneer Road, Hillsboro, MO 63050 636-797-8686 | www.wildsun.com

destihl.com Justin Phelps is a Certified Cicerone® and the founder of saintbrewis.com, a website dedicated to covering current events and trends happening in the St. Louis craft-beer scene.

SPIRIT

Pinckney Bend distillery's APPle AmBush written by Jenn tosatto

Provenance: new Haven, Missouri (35% abV) Try IT: in a traditional whiskey sour

if you’re looking for the flavor of a Missouri fall in a glass, look no further than apple ambush whiskey from Pinckney Bend Distillery in new Haven, Missouri. it begins with a blend of unaged corn whiskey and oak-aged whiskey; cinnamon and warm baking spices are added, and it’s finished with apple nectar. what sets the whiskey apart from other flavored varieties is its balance of fruit-forward sweetness and warm finish. it’s not cloyingly sweet or viscous, and can be enjoyed straight or in myriad cocktails. if you have some time before your holiday party, try mulling homemade cider (see p. 28 for a recipe) and finishing it with apple ambush for a warm cocktail to serve alongside your pumpkin pie.

pinckneybend.com You can find Jenn Tosatto running the bar at Mission Taco Joint's Kansas City location. She also loves donating her skills to many charity events around the city, as well as working private events.

1000 S. 4th St. | St. Louis, MO 63104 | www.still630.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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pumped up

Crunchy cinnamon streusel dresses up this holiday-perfect pumpkin-cranberry bread on p. 38. photography by jacklyn meyer


Story and recipe by amanda elliott photography by drew pieSter

Sweet Potato okonomiyaki You can find furikake, pickled ginger, Kewpie mayonnaise and bonito flakes at most international markets and Asian grocery stores. ServeS | 6 to 8 |

1 large sweet potato, julienned (about 5 cups) 2 Tbsp pickled ginger, slivered 1 Tbsp furikake 2 scallions, thinly sliced 2 large eggs, beaten salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup all-purpose flour ¹⁄₃ cup vegetable oil, divided Sriracha (to serve) Kewpie mayonnaise (to serve) bonito flakes (to serve) scallions, thinly sliced (to serve) microgreens (to serve)

| preparation | in a large mixing bowl, combine sweet potato, pickled ginger, furikake, scallions and eggs; stir to combine and season with salt and pepper. add flour and toss to combine. in a large nonstick saucepan over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons oil. add ¼ sweet potato mixture to pan and press into a thin layer using the back of a spatula. cook until set and golden brown, about 2 minutes; flip pancake over and continue to cook until set, approximately 2 minutes. repeat with remaining sweet potato mixture to make 6 to 8 pancakes total. divide pancakes between 6 to 8 serving plates, drizzle each with Kewpie mayonnaise and Sriracha and top with bonito flakes, scallions and microgreens to taste; serve.

healthy appetite

Sweet Potato okonomiyaki Every year, I like to bring one dish to Thanksgiving dinner that breaks a little with tradition and uses a conventional ingredient in a new way. This holiday season, I’m experimenting with okonomiyaki – okonomi means “how you like” or “what you like” in Japanese, while yaki translates to “grill” – a savory Japanese pancake that can be made with a variety of flavor combinations. I love sweet potatoes, so I’ve used them here as my base, and then added hints of ginger and furikake, a Japanese seasoning. The dish is finished with a drizzle of Kewpie mayo – a creamier mayonnaise made with rice vinegar rather than distilled vinegar – Sriracha and bonito flakes. If you’ve never had bonito flakes, okonomiyaki is an ideal way to play with them at home: The dried, smoked, fermented and thinly shaved tuna flakes add intense umami flavor. Amanda Elliott is the chef at Peachtree Catering (peachtreebanquet.com) in Columbia, Missouri, and authors the website Rustic Supper (rusticsupper.com), where she shares recipes centered on the idea of the communal table and embracing the heritage of food through travel. She also hosts a series of pop-up dinners in Columbia called Sunday Suppers.


For F or Home. Home me For Body. For Memories.

The PPerfecT GifT ffor home & holidayS h we have ve y youR oN o CoveRed oCCaSIo

DUTCH FUSION

127 E Argonne gonne Dr. Dr St. Louis ouis MO 63122 6 (314) 909-0202 9-0 909-0

334 E Commercial Street Springfield, MO 65803 417.344.0085 vangoghseeterie.com

Make at Home for the Holidays!

Peruvian Dining

in SpringField MO Tapas, soups & salads, sandwiches and peruvian beverages 234 East Commercial St, Springfield, MO | 417.868.8088 | www.cafecusco.com

Vineyard Tours ours • Wine Ta Tasting as g • C Craft a Beer ee • Cottages Potosi, MO • www.edg www.edg-clif.com clif.com

FAMILY OF RESTAURANTS Celebrating food, one dish at a time.

COMING SOON! HOURS WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY 4PM-1AM SUNDAY 3PM - 12 MIDNIGHT MONDAY & TUESDAY CLOSED

Named for a legendary shipwreck, celebrating the British Virgin Islands and the birthplace of one of the Caribbean’s most prolific spirits. Featuring more than 50 rums, Caribbean cocktails, frozen drinks, entertainment and authentic Island fare. Save the Date for our Caribbean Christmas or the Island New Year’s Eve celebrations! rhonerumbar.com

314-241-RUMS (7867)

2107 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, MO 63103

For a complete listing of our events, visit HamiltonHospitality.net AEROPONIC

TOWER

Inspired Local Food Culture

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meet: Parsley

story and recipe by shannon weber photography by jennifer silverberg

root

Lemon-ParsLey root mashed Potatoes Get the most out of your lemon zest by pulling it off in strips as opposed to grating it with a zester, which keeps the lemon oil intact; just be sure to chop it very finely with a chef’s knife. serves

| 8 to 10 |

2 lbs Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and quartered 1 lb parsley root, peeled, tops removed, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 Tbsp kosher salt 4 Tbsp unsalted butter 1 cup heavy cream ¼ cup fresh lemon juice, strained 1 Tbsp plus 1½ tsp lemon zest 2 Tbsp plus 1 tsp capers, drained, divided salt and freshly ground black pepper

| preparation | in a large soup or saucepan over high heat, add potatoes and parsley root. add salt and enough water to cover roots by 2 inches. bring to a full boil; cover and reduce heat to medium to boil for 20 minutes, until fork-tender. while roots cook, in a small saucepan over medium heat, add butter and cream and heat until butter has melted and liquid is hot; remove from heat, add lemon juice and zest. remove roots from heat and drain; transfer back to warm pan to dry. Mash using a potato masher until roots are combined with chunks remaining, taking care not to overwork. pour in cream mixture and fold to combine. roughly chop 2 tablespoons capers and fold into mixture; season generously with salt and pepper.

| to serve | place mashed potatoes in a large shallow serving bowl, check seasoning and adjust to taste and scatter remaining 1 teaspoon capers over top to garnish. serve warm.

it’s really not a parsnip, i promise.

What Is It? not to state the obvious, but parsley root is the oft-ignored white root of those verdant parsley leaves we’ve grown so used to using. compare root to leaves and you’ll get some of the same similarities and contrasts as you will with other multi-part roots: the greens are bright and grassy with sharp flavor, while the roots are mellow, earthy and more rounded. What do I do WIth It? roots tend to be the deeper echo of their delicate, sunlit tops, perfectly suited to cooler months and heartier dishes; parsley is no exception. if you’ve cooked with celeriac, think of parsley root in much the same way: too pungent on its own, but ideal for effortlessly adding some nuanced flavor into even the most basic dishes. i like to add cubes into pot roast vegetables or beef stews to lift the flavor a bit – the leaves wilt, but the roots infuse otherwise heavy dishes with mellow parsley flavor and blend right in. slice it into a classic gratin with other root vegetables, or throw a few on a sheet pan with whole-roasted carrots and then glaze with honey or maple syrup to finish. if you're looking to upgrade your holiday meals this year, this recipe is an incredibly simple way to elevate mashed potatoes with flavors everyone will love; even the capers slide in virtually undetected by picky eaters and can easily be omitted as a garnish. if capers aren’t your thing, consider substituting finely chopped Kalamata olives for that welcome hint of brine. Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as bon appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes that the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and life.


Whiskey for the Winter  

More than 300 Whiskeys in Stock  10 Minutes from Special Order Available downtown St. Louis  Serving St. Louis & Southern Illinois for 78 years

tasting events every friday

210 W. Main Street | Collinsville, IL 62234 | 618-344-4930 | deansliquor.com

Let uS dO the COOking thiS holiday season!

HOUSE OF CHOW

TradiTiOnal CHinESE WiTH a mOdErn TWiST Crossroads Shopping Center 2101 West Broadway, Suite O Columbia, MO 65203 573.445.8800

HAPPY HOLIDAYS AROUND THE WORLD St. Louis’ Definitive Source for Ethnic Food

421 Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, MO

314-835-1112

www.globalfoodsmarket.com

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quick fix

Sheet-Pan Pork ChoPS story and recipe by Gabrielle deMichele photoGraphy by jennifer silverberG

Sheet-Pan Pork ChoPS With root Vegetable DreSSing Look for loaves of premade cornbread at the grocery store for the root vegetable dressing; you'll only need to use half for the recipe. serves | 6 |

1½ lbs butternut squash (3 cups), cut into ½-inch cubes 1 large rutabaga, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes 1 large yellow onion, large dice ½ cup celery (4 ribs), small dice 1 celeriac bulb, cut into ½-inch cubes 6 garlic cloves 1 apple, cored, cut into ½-inch slices salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 Tbsp grapeseed oil, divided 6 sprigs fresh thyme 4 fresh sage leaves, finely diced 1 loaf store-bought cornbread (at least 1 lb, 4 oz), halved 3 Tbsp room-temperature unsalted butter 6 ¾-inch loin pork chops ¹⁄₃ cup dried cranberries or cherries, roughly chopped 1 Tbsp fresh parsley, minced

With Root Vegetable DRessing

The holiday season is a fun and exciting time of year, albeit an incredibly busy one. Between decorating, cleaning the house for guests, shopping for holiday gifts and cooking big family meals, it’s important to find time to relax and unwind when you can. Sheet-pan meals are perfect for nights when you need an easy yet hearty and comforting meal in a hurry. Simply toss everything together in one pan and roast it in less than 30 minutes.

chef’s tip cHOP TO iT. Pork chops cooked to 150°F will be flavorful and

Take rOOT. For the dressing, you can use a variety of tender. The loin chop includes part of the tenderloin, which root vegetables: turnips, parsnips, yams and carrots. Just adds even richer flavor. Pull chops from the oven when a meat remember that the denser the vegetable, the smaller dice thermometer reads 145°F; there will be residual cooking after you will need to ensure that everything cooks evenly. removing them from heat to bring them to 150°F.

the Menu • Quick-Pickled Apple Slices • Roasted Carrot Soup • Autumn Salad With Caramelized Apple Vinaigrette • Sheet-Pan Pork Chops With Root Vegetable Dressing • Pumpkin Crumble

In this class, you’ll learn how to make quick-pickled apple slices to serve with a holiday cheese board. You’ll also learn how to make a seasonal roasted carrot soup to warm chilly autumn evenings.

| preparation | preheat oven to 400°f. adjust 1 oven rack to bottom setting and another to second setting from top. place a large rimmed baking sheet on either rack to preheat. in a mixing bowl, add first 7 ingredients and stir to combine. season with salt and pepper to taste, drizzle with 3 tablespoons oil and toss until vegetables are coated. add thyme and sage and toss. cut ½ of cornbread loaf into ¾-inch slices and spread butter over slices; cut slices into 1-inch cubes. season pork chops with salt and pepper on both sides. Using oven mitts, carefully remove hot baking sheet from oven and brush remaining 1 tablespoon oil over bottom. spread vegetable mixture and cornbread cubes evenly over baking sheet. lay pork chops over top, spacing them equally across the length and width of baking sheet. place on bottom rack of oven. after 10 minutes, rotate baking sheet and place on top rack. roast another 10 to 12 minutes, or until pork chops read 150°f on a meat thermometer. remove from oven and test vegetables with a fork. if they’re not tender, toss with a spatula and cook another 5 to 7 minutes to caramelize. top meat and dressing with cranberries and gently stir to mix well. transfer to a platter, top with parsley and serve.

get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school at 6pm on Wed., nov. 14, at the des Peres, Missouri, location to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at nourish.schnucks.com/schnucks-cooking-school or call 314.909.1704.


WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Mondays at 8:30pm.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Saturdays at 5:30pm and Sundays at 7:30am.

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Saturdays at 10am.

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) Mondays at 12:30pm.

Feast TV’s new season will air in the Springfield region on Ozarks Public Television. Check your local listings for airdates..

Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

ORDER YOUR FRESH TURKEY TODAY FOR THANKSGIVING! We offer the best in fresh turkey and poultry with no added hormones for your Thanksgiving feast! They have a delicious flavor and will save you time – no need to thaw. Stop by or call your local Schnucks Meat Department to order and schedule a convenient pick-up time starting on Nov. 14. Order early, quantities are limited.

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story and recipe by christy augustin photography by jacklyn meyer

PumPkin-Cranberry bread with Cinnamon StreuSel The fresh cranberries can be replaced with ¾ cup chocolate chips if desired. yields

| 1 large loaf |

PumPkin-Pie SPice

¼ 1 1 1 1 1½

cup ground cinnamon Tbsp ground nutmeg Tbsp ground ginger Tbsp ground allspice Tbsp ground cardamom tsp ground cloves

cinnamon StreuSel

1 ²⁄₃ ½ ¹⁄₈ ½

cup bread or all-purpose flour cup granulated sugar tsp kosher salt tsp ground cinnamon pinch ground nutmeg ²⁄₃ cup cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

PumPkin-cranberry bread

1¾ 1 ¼ 1 1 ½ ¾ 2 ¼ ½ ¹⁄₃ 1 ¾ 1

cup all-purpose flour tsp baking soda tsp baking powder tsp pumpkin-pie spice (recipe below) cup tightly packed brown sugar cup granulated sugar tsp kosher salt large eggs tsp vanilla extract cup canola oil cup water cup canned pumpkin purée cup fresh cranberries Tbsp pepitas

| preparation – pumpkin-pie spice | in a small mixing bowl, stir all ingredients together; transfer to an airtight jar to store. keeps for up to 3 months.

| preparation – cinnamon streusel | in the bowl of a food processor, add all dry ingredients and stir. add butter and pulse until crumbles form. refrigerate until needed, up to 1 month.

| preparation – pumpkin-cranberry bread | preheat oven to 350°F. grease and flour a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan. in a mixing bowl, sift flour, baking powder and soda and pumpkin-pie spice; set aside. in a separate mixing bowl, whisk sugars, salt, eggs, vanilla and oil until smooth. add water and pumpkin purée, then flour mixture. Whisk until smooth and free of lumps. stir in cranberries, if using. pour into prepared pan and top with pepitas and a generous layer of streusel. bake for 60 to 70 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. let cool at room temperature for 10 minutes before unmolding onto a cooling rack. keeps for up to 4 days at room temperature.

PumPkin-Cranberry bread with Cinnamon StreuSel

this pumpkin-bread recipe was inspired by one in a dog-eared, grease-stained copy of a junior league of st. louis cookbook from the 1980s. i’ve tweaked it ever so slightly and created my own pumpkin-pie spice and a crunchy streusel topping. sometimes i add pepitas, other times fresh cranberries or even chocolate chips when i crave this quick bread. tightly wrapped, the baked bread freezes beautifully for up to one month, which is especially nice during the holiday season. this recipe will make one large loaf, one small bundt or three mini loaves; double or triple the batch for a crowd. Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.


YOUR SOURCE FOR THE FINEST

• Maine Lobsters • Jumbo Lump Crabmeat • Dry-Packed Scallops • Jumbo Shrimp • Smoked Salmon • Wide Selection of Oysters & Fish

Let Us Cook Relax and Enjoy Your Family

314.993.4844

8660 OLIVE IN U CITY

FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978! bobsseafoodstl.com

The

Blue Owl Restaurant & Bakery Order Your Thanksgiving Desserts Early...

Fabulous Homemade Pies Specialty Cakes & Cheesecakes and much more • 636-464-3128 Christmas Open House & Parade Saturday, Nov. 17, 10am - 9pm Dining Hours: 10am - 7pm

Christmas Festival & Cookie Walk

Thanksgiving Dinner • • • • • • • •

Whole Fresh Turkey Cranberry Sauce Harvest Salad Bread Stuffing Mashed Potatoes & Gravy Honey Almond Green Beans Ciabatta Rolls & Butter Pumpkin Pie & Pecan Pie

Small $23.50 Per Plate Medium 5-6 people $150 Large 10-12 people $275

Nov. 30, Dec 1 & 2

Breakfast with Santa Saturday, December 15, 9 AM • By Reservation

theblueowl.com

Tuesday - Fri. 10 - 3 • Saturday & Sunday 10 - 5

636.464.3128

24 Years and Still Cooking 314-963-9899 | theaofe.com

Join us at

Free

Admission!

Festus, mo Saturday, December 1

8am • • •

to

7pm | 400 W. Main St.

Santa Face Painting ice Skating

• • •

Carriage Rides Petting Zoo and More!

Call for more information 636.937.6646, | Cityoffestus.org/296/winterfest Inspired Local Food Culture

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Celebrate the Holidays in

BELLEVILLE, IL OPENING DAY CELEBRATION

GINGERBREAD DISPLAYS

FREE Concert performed by

SANTA HOUSE

Nov. 23, 6 PM

Dogs of Society Elton John Rock Tribute at 6:30 PM

5th Annual

CHRISTKINDLMARKT Nov. 23- Dec. 23 Authentic German Style Open Air Christmas Market

SANTA PARADE

Nov. 21 - Jan. 1

Nov. 23 - Dec. 24

HORSE-DRAWN TROLLEY RIDES

Free, Nov. 23 - Dec. 23 Fridays, Saturdays & Sundays

Nov. 23, 10 AM

LIVE REINDEER

Nov. 24 & Dec. 1, 7, 16, 21

FAMILY FUN EVENTS

Every Weekend Check website for details.

bellevillechristkindlmarkt.com

For more information or Holiday Brochures

Call 800-677-9255 • belleville.net Check website for inclement weather changes and delays

asian CaFe Bar & Grill sty food? Hungry for ligHt’ts&wtaoking at asian cafe Ha you just can’t beat w

GluTen Free and veGan Friendly

happy hour 5pm-7pm mon-ThurS

1260 Bryan road, o’Fallon, Mo 63366

(636) 272-4429

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Sun-Thur 11am-9pm Fri-SaT 11am-10pm CloSed 3pm-5pm mon-Fri

Sunday, November 18th 12-3pm @ Moulin Events tickets start at $10 Shop from 45+ area vendors, enjoy brunch bites and sip on cozy cocktails provided by Beam Suntory. PLUS live music by Wayward Souls.

for event details, visit STLtoday.com/ourevents proudly sponsored by

All trademarks are the property of their respective owners ; Maker's Mark® and Maker's 46® Bourbon Whisky, 45 and 47% Alc./Vol. ©2018 Maker's Mark Distillery, Inc., Loretto, KY. ; Basil Hayden's® Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 40% Alc./Vol. ©2018 Kentucky Springs Distilling Co., Clermont, KY. ; Laphroaig® Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky, 43% Alc./Vol. ©2018 Laphroaig Import Company, Chicago, IL ; Knob Creek® Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 50% Alc./Vol. ©2018 Knob Creek Distillery, Clermont, KY. ; Jim Beam® Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 40% Alc./Vol. ©2018 James B. Beam Distilling Co., Clermont, KY ; EFFEN® Vodka, 100% neutral spirits distilled from wheat grain, 40% alc./vol. and Flavored Vodkas, Distilled from Grain, 37.5% alc./vol. © 2018 EFFEN Import Company, Chicago, IL

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PROMOTION

1 2

the Missouri Craft Distillers Guild was created to bring together our state’s craft distilleries and speak with a unified voice to spread the message that quality and local can go hand in hand. from the northern border to the bootheel, there are incredible craft distilleries to be found and explored, each with its own unique character and flavors. MissouriCraftDistillersGuild.com

1220 ArtisAn spirits

s t. lo ui s

BlAck shire Distillery

h ermann

3

copper run Distillery

4

DogmAster Distillers

5

JuDgment tree

6

missouri riDge Distillery

7

walnut s h ade co lumbi a defi ance brans o n

st. louis Distillery

s t. ch arles

8

spirits of st. louis

9

tom’s town Distilling co.

s t. lo ui s

k ansas ci ty

15 19 18 9

10

wooD hAt spirits

11

wooDsmen Distilling

new flo rence

h i gbee

12

Bone hill View Distillery

13

crown VAlley Distilling co.

buck ner

s te. genevi eve

11

12 4

fernweh Distilling co.

15

of the eArth fArm Distillery

h ermann

ri ch mo nd

10 14

14

2 17

7 5

8

1 20

16

ozArk Distillery

17

pinckney BenD Distillery

18

restless spirits Distilling co.

19

s.D. strong Distilling

o sage beach new h aven

k ansas ci ty

16

park vi lle

20 still 630 s t. lo ui s

13

3 6


PROMOTION

1 1220 Arti san Spirits

2 Black Shire Distillery

Inspired by secret societies and speakeasies, the new 1220 Artisan Spirits brand complements its sister company, 4 Hands Brewing Co., and celebrates the relationship between brewery and distillery. Its first spirit, Origin, is a botanically driven gin made in the New Western style. 1220 plans to continue to expand its portfolio with more spirits such as seasonal gins, amaro and canned cocktails.

Opened in May, Black Shire Distillery's Hermann Farm tasting room and distillery is located on the restored cellar of its 1840s homestead, as well as an additional tasting room in downtown Hermann, Missouri. At the farm, sample spirits – whiskey, gin, vodka and more using its own fruits and Missouri-grown corn and rye – and tour the still cellar, mash room and aging barn.

1220spirits.com

111 Gutenberg St. and 2206 Highway 100 E, Hermann, Missouri, blackshiredistillery.com

5 Judgment Tree

6 Missouri Ridge Distillery

Defiance, Missouri, is where American legend Daniel Boone held court at the tree they called Judgment Tree and where the eponymous distillery draws inspiration for its extraordinary spirits, including a vodka made with local grapes and grains. Judge the superiority for yourself by picking up a bottle or trying it out in a signature cocktail at more than a dozen St. Louis-area retailers, restaurants and bars.

Missouri Ridge Distillery is one of Missouri’s most award-winning – and Branson’s only – grain-to-bottle distillery. It offers corn, bourbon and single-malt whiskeys, as well as several Howlin' Hounds Moonshines. Master distiller Greg Pope, aka "MR Whiskey," invites you to share in his passion while sampling its products in the tasting room and restaurant.

125 Boone Country Lane, Defiance, Missouri, 636.987.2400, judgmenttree.com

7000 State Highway 248, Branson, Missouri, 417.699.4095, missouriridgedistillery.com

9 Tom's Town Distilling Co.

10 Wood Hat Spirits

Controlled by political boss Tom Pendergast, money, jazz, and spirits flowed freely through Kansas City, aka Tom’s Town. When asked how he justified ignoring Prohibition, Tom answered, “The people are thirsty.” The premium craft spirits from Tom’s Town Distilling Co. satisfy that same thirst today. Taste the high standards in every sip of gin, vodka and bourbon made in the heart of Tom’s Town.

Next time you’re driving west along Interstate 70 between St. Louis and Columbia, take a pit stop at Wood Hat Spirits seed-to-glass distillery and tasting room. Nationally and internationally awarded and recognized, including the best craft-distilled whiskey by the American Distilling Institute in 2018, Wood Hat grows four heritage, non-GMO corns to make its four bourbons, four corn whiskeys and four cordials.

1701 Main St., Kansas City, Missouri, 816.541.2400, toms-town.com

489 Booneslick Road, New Florence, Missouri, 573.216.3572, woodhatspirits.com

12 Bone Hill View Distillery

14 Fernweh Distilling Co.

Bone Hill View Distillery pulls from the adventurous spirit of the town’s pioneers in handcrafted products including sweet sorghum-based spirits. 321 S. Hudson St., Buckner, Missouri, 816.650.0655, facebook.com/bonehillviewdistillery

Fernweh Distilling Co. tasting room and distillery showcase small-batch spirits including a rye whiskey, bourbon whiskey and wheat whiskey in historic riverfront Hermann. 4 Schiller St., Hermann, Missouri, 573.486.2970, fernwehdistilling.com

13 Crown Valley Distilling Co.

15 Of the Earth Farm Distillery

Crown Valley Brewing & Distilling Co. has a state-of-the-art facility for its portfolio of beers and spirits, plus a scenic tasting room in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri. 13326 State Highway F, Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, 573.756.9700, crownvalleybrewery.com

Of The Earth Farm Distillery creates apple brandy, rye whiskey, grappa, gin and a variety of liqueurs. Spent mash from the still is fed to pastured hogs to produce delicious pork. 17190 Highway 13, Richmond, Missouri, 660.232.1096, oftheearthfarm.com


PROMOTION

3 Copper Run Distillery

4 DogMaster Distillers

With a philosophy of quality over quantity, Copper Run Distillery produces small batches of handcrafted moonshine, whiskey and rum in Walnut Shade, Missouri. From its historic landmark of being the first legal distillery in the Ozark Mountains since Prohibition ended, Copper Run continues to break the mold by using local resources and time-tested distillation techniques.

DogMaster Distillers is the first craft distillery located in the heart of Missouri in Columbia. DogMaster utilizes as many locally sourced raw materials as possible in the production of its products, which include vodka, whiskey, bourbon, rum and gin. This family-owned establishment is open to the public for tours, tastings and cocktails Tuesday through Thursday from 4 to 10pm and Friday and Saturday from 4 to 11pm.

1901 Day Road, Walnut Shade, Missouri, 417.587.3456, copperrundistillery.com

210 St. James St., Suite D, Columbia, Missouri, 573.777.6768, dogmasterdistillery.com

7

8 Spirits of St. Louis

St. Louis Distillery

Vodka-lovers can get their hands on some of the best in the country at St. Louis Distillery’s tasting room. The extremely smooth Cardinal Sin vodka features a mash bill of two-row roasted barley delicately balanced with corn for a smooth, slightly sweet and full-bodied vodka. Cardinal Sin Starka is an amber spirit aged for 12 months in charred Missouri white-oak bourbon barrels and is the first barrel-aged vodka in the U.S. 755 Friedens Road, St. Charles, Missouri, 636.925.1577, stldistillery.com

As with sister brewery and restaurant, Square One Brewery and Distillery, Spirits of St. Louis’ flavorful, handcrafted offerings are created using local bounty and natural ingredients. Flagship whiskeys include JJ Neukomm Malt Whiskey, Vermont Night Maple Whiskey and Hopskey, a hop-infused whiskey. The restaurant showcases the full line of spirits with a signature cocktail menu, which includes regular and infused spirits highlighted with housemade syrups and mixers. 1727 Park Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.231.2537, spiritsofstlouisdistillery.com

11 Woodsmen Distilling An hour north of Columbia, Missouri, Woodsmen Distilling takes the long road to produce its bourbons, whiskeys, flavored rums and more: from growing its own grains and rye to making and charring its own barrels to age the spirits on-site. See the entire grain-to-glass operation at the tasting room, which offers free tours and tastings on Saturdays.

18 Restless Spirits Distilling Co.

7239 Highway A, Higbee, Missouri, 660.456.7610, facebook.com/ woodsmendistilling

Missouri’s Distillery of the Year – Restless Spirits Distilling Co. – distills American spirits in the Irish tradition, including single-malt whiskey, poitín, gin and vodka. 109 E. 18th Ave., Kansas City, Missouri, 816.492.6868, restlessspiritsdistilling.com

16 Ozark Distillery

19 S.D. Strong Distilling

Along with its flagship corn whiskey and bourbon, the Osage Beach, Missouri, distillery produces infused moonshine in butterscotch, apple pie, blackberry and more. 1684 Highway KK, Osage Beach, Missouri, 573.348.2449, ozarkdistillery.com

Located in caves 65 feet underground, S.D. Strong Distilling produces vodka, straight rye whiskey, barrel-rested and original Pillar 136 Gin, and Big Boom Bourbon. 8500 NW River Park Drive #136A, Parkville, Missouri, sdstrongdistilling.com

17 Pinckney Bend Distillery

20 StilL 630

Celebrating the legend of a lost town, Pinckney Bend Distillery creates award-winning premium spirits, including gins, whiskeys and vodka, by focusing on heritage and local ingredients. 1101 Miller St., New Haven, Missouri, 573.237.5559, pinckneybend.com

With a mission to create “indomitable spirits,” StilL 630’s premium, small-batch best-sellers include RallyPoint rye whiskey, Expedition rum and Volstead’s Folly gin. 1000 S. Fourth St., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.513.2275, still630.com


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| 47 |

Good Gourd!

Fall is the busy season for Jack Diffey, who grows 107 different pumpkins, squash and gourds on his farm in Louisiana, Missouri.

| 54 |

a taste of home

From a feast of tamales and arroz rojo to “Diwaligiving” dinner, three families show that what unites us on Thanksgiving is food cooked with love.

| 66 |

flour power

At The Mill at Janie’s Farm, organic grain is grown and made into high-quality stone-ground flour.

| 74 |

perfectly peared

Freshen up your holiday table this season with fall’s most underused fruit. phoTo oF MApLe-peAr cheesecAke wiTh peAr coMpoTe (p. 74), BY AMAnDA wiLens


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Fall is the busy season for Jack Diffey, who grows 107 different

pumpkins, squash and gourds on his farm in Louisiana, Missouri.

written by nancy stiles photography by jennifer silverberg Inspired Local Food Culture

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ometimes, when Jack Diffey is out in his fields picking pumpkins, he gets hungry. He starts harvesting in earnest just before Labor Day, and luckily, that’s when his Tiger Baby watermelons are just about ready. Diffey brushes soil off the bottom of one melon to check if it’s ripe. “The way to tell on the watermelon,” he says, fishing a knife out of the back of his small utility vehicle, “[is] if the bottom’s yellow, they’re usually ready.” He sets the small melon on a tree stump and swiftly slices it open to reveal the bright pink fruit. “I’m not sure if that’s ready or not – I’ll taste it and see.” He takes a bite. “Mmm – that’s pretty good, isn’t it?” Diffey has some cantaloupe, too, and cucumbers and enormous zucchini that he just can’t harvest fast enough. The real draw, though, are his pumpkins, squash and gourds. He began planting pumpkins around 1991 – starting with just an acre – and now plants 8 acres on his property in Louisiana, Missouri, about 90 miles north of St. Louis. Around mid-September, he’ll put a sign out at the end of his driveway on Highway NN to advertise his vast assortment of squash, pumpkins and gourds. Louisiana locals know where he is, though, and they come down the gravel driveway to a festive display of his red, orange, green, blue, yellow and white harvest to buy from Diffey and his wife, Debbie.

“People have different tastes,” he says of his wide variety. “It’s funny: You’ll have somebody come out here and they want the perfect pumpkin. Then you’ll get somebody else come and say, ‘I want the ugliest pumpkin you got out here.’ So you don’t know – it’s just a guess. I think your best plan is to have a lot of variety to choose from.” That’s something of an understatement. This year, Diffey estimates he’s grown 107 different pumpkins, squash and gourds, from pie-perfect Winter Luxury and table-size Casperita pumpkins to Crystal Star, a larger white variety that’s a wedding-decoration favorite, and bumpy Knuckleheads. “I say they named that one after me,” Diffey jokes. “I guess you’d call us hobby farmers.” He’s too humble to say so, but his operation is far from a hobby farm. People come from all over Missouri and Illinois – even as far away as Kansas City – to shop Diffey’s impressive fall crop.

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Although he’s lived in rural Missouri for the past 37 years, Diffey grew up in Crestwood, Missouri, in south St. Louis County, and studied horticulture at St. Louis Community College–Meramec. He first moved to Louisiana in 1976 to work for Stark Bros. Nursery; a year later he and Debbie relocated to Forest City, Arkansas, when he accepted a system manager job at a Stark branch plant. In 1981, they returned to Louisiana, where Diffey managed spraying in field production and warehouse storage of fruit trees for Stark. That’s when he began raising pigs on the side; at one time, he had about 30 sows bearing two litters a year, which he would raise until they reached about 40 pounds. After 25 years, though, Stark declared bankruptcy, and Diffey had to find a new gig. He spent about five years managing overnights at the local Walmart store – “just terrible,” he recalls – and jumped at the chance to return to agriculture when an acquaintance he knew from his time at Stark offered him a job at United Ag Products (now called Nutrien Ag Solutions). “Fertilizer, chemical, seed – I do all that,” Diffey says. “So I work 40, 50 hours a week, then I do this for fun, I guess.” The fun, of course, is Diffey’s Pumpkins. Almost 30 years ago, an old friend from Stark was growing pumpkins in Marthasville, and asked the Diffeys if they wanted to help sell them and split the profits. They liked the work so much that, in addition to raising pigs at the time, they decided to grow pumpkins, too. “We were growing the pumpkins, and I had more than I needed and I’d give them away,” Diffey says. “Whatever was left, I gave them to the pigs. As time goes by, it got to where I couldn’t make any money on the pigs. There just wasn’t any money. So I sold them all. But then you have all this equipment, the ground, and all that, and you gotta do something with it. So I started fooling with pumpkins.”

“People have different tastes. It’s funny: You’ll have somebody come out here and they want the perfect pumpkin. Then you’ll get somebody else come and say, ‘I want the ugliest pumpkin you got out here.’ So you don’t know ± it’s just a guess. I think your best plan is to have a lot of variety to choose from.” -Jack Diffey


Crystal Star

The work reminded Diffey of why he was so interested in horticulture and agriculture in the first place. At the time – the late 1980s and early 1990s – pretty much all you could find locally were regular carving pumpkins. Diffey figured he needed to find his own market, and began trying new and different varieties each year. Today, he sources some of his more interesting squash, pumpkin and gourd seeds from Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds in Mansfield, Missouri, but back then, they were much harder to find.

Autumn Wing Swan Gourd

“The challenge is trying to figure out your product mix – how many carving pumpkins, how many pie pumpkins, how many gourds and all that, so it’s kind of a guess how to split [your crop],” he says. In general, he’ll plant 40 percent carving pumpkins, 40 percent specialty, 10 percent “smalls” and 10 percent pie pumpkins.

Of course, it’s a lot easier to make pumpkin pie with the already puréed, canned filling, but Diffey says his pumpkins make more flavorful pies, noting that he thinks Winter Luxury yields the best pie-filling texture. “I think it’s better,” he says. “It doesn’t taste overly processed; you get pumpkin out of the can, it can seem overly processed, mucky. If you make your own pie [from whole pumpkins] you can adjust your seasoning to what you like.”

Blue Doll

Many of what appear to be specialty pumpkins are technically squash varieties: Diffey’s always trying to find more interesting shapes, vibrant colors, long vines, short vines. He rattles off the playful names, listed carefully in his handwritten field book, with ease. “That’s a new one here, called Colorado Sunrise, with the blue and pink,” he says before combing through a few more. “This is a new one called Hogarth; it’s a Rupp variety. That’s called Blue Doll; this is Crystal Star, it’s a nice white one. I don’t know if I’ve got really one favorite. I kinda like the Knuckleheads. I like the different stuff. I like this, called a Red Eye. It’s the darkest red one – they tend to crack, but isn’t that a real nice dark red? I like it. I got a lot of favorites. These little ones here, they’re kinda neat. That’s Crunchkin, see how they’ve got a real hard shell on ‘em? This is called Marengo – it’s got an orange to it that’s pretty. That’s Australian Butter, I like those. That’d be a good pie one.”

Colorado Sunrise

When he started selling his crop 30 years ago, Diffey just set up a wagon with some hay bales and a few pumpkins and squash to sell. Over the past decade, though, his operation has grown to include an old Garden Mart structure repurposed from a Walmart store, poured concrete and another little covering. He added yet another tent this fall. During his busiest time – the last two weeks in October – someone from the family, be it Diffey, Debbie, their son Kyle, Kyle’s wife, Leah, or Diffey’s 91-year-old mother, Rose, is here selling pretty much every day. After Halloween, they close the stand, but because Diffey always grows more than he can sell, fans can message Diffey’s Pumpkins on Facebook to snag the rest of the harvest in November. The rest will go to the squirrels. Diffey even saves up his vacation time and takes about a month or so off to hand-pick things almost daily to sell. “That’s a heck of a way to spend a lot of your vacation time,” he says with a laugh. He hand-plants everything, too, with the help of Kyle and Leah, since they grow so many different types in varying sizes and vine lengths. Although it’s technically a side gig, Diffey’s Pumpkins takes a lot of work. There are critters to keep out – electric fences to deter deer, traps for mice and voles and this summer, squirrels were “giving me heck” – plus squash bugs, aphids, weeds and weather to combat.

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Red Eye


And weather in Missouri can be famously inconsistent, Diffey says, so irrigation is key to his operation. He uses an old 20,000-gallon fertilizer tank he bought from Stark to pump water from nearby Little Buffalo Creek into a temporary pipeline and 5 miles of drip tape that runs through the 8 acres to keep everything hydrated. “I just don’t know if people realize how much work it is to do it,” he says. “You’ve gotta like to do it, let’s just put it that way.” This afternoon, for example, he plans to pick about 1,000 pounds of the larger varieties and a few trays of the smaller ones for a big order headed to Chesterfield, in west St. Louis County. “[Debbie] likes the selling part more – it’s social and stuff,” he explains. "She’s not much on growing, which makes [us] a good team. Kyle’s got two little girls; they like all this stuff, too. It’s a good family thing. It’s almost more fun with the grandkids than the kids, ‘cause you gotta spoil ‘em. Debbie does a lot of that, spoilin’ them kids. They’ve got old Grandma and Grandpa figured out.” At Little Buffalo Creek, for example, he’s set up a swimming hole for the kids; they love to have picnics and play in the clear water. “I’m lucky to have the creek, ‘cause I couldn’t afford the water,” he says, shaking his head. “Irrigation’s an important part of doing it. Some people can get by, but it’s just not worth the risk for me, because I depend on the crop every year. You’ll have people do it a year or two and then give it up, because it’s not worth it. It takes a real nut to stick with it as many years as I’ve been doing it.” Even so, Diffey doesn’t see himself retiring anytime soon. After pumpkin season is finished, he’ll take a weekend and go deer hunting in mid-November. But that’s about as much downtime as he can stand. “They call me a workaholic,” he says with a shrug. “I’m happy that I can do what I’m doing, you know? It’s a lot of work and sometimes you get discouraged, especially dealing with the weather and worrying about getting [your] crop, but I like living here and I’m lucky that I’m in good health. I feel fortunate.”

pie perfect It's easy to make your own pumpkin-pie filling at home: Simply roast it for a smoother texture and more complex flavor than canned pumpkin. These varieties have enough flesh to make at least two pies. P Winter

Luxury pumpkin: light orange; smooth, sweet, fiber-free flesh

P cinnamon

GirL pumpkin: bright, deep orange; dry and sweet flesh

P austraLian

Butter squash: bumpy, salmon-colored skin; thick, starchy flesh

P JarrahdaLe

pumpkin: slightly larger than other pie pumpkins, slate grey skin; sweet, aromatic golden yellow flesh

P LonG isLand cheese pumpkin: ribbed, light skin similar to a wheel of cheese; deep orange, firm, sweet flesh

Despite the very physical nature of the work, pulling together a display of Lunch Ladys, Pranksters, Apprentices, Lil’ Pump-ke-mons and Cinderellas is worth it for Diffey. “I get excited to see the kids in the fall get excited when they come out,” Diffey says. “[The] mom’ll pull up, and the kids’ll climb over mom just to get out and see the pumpkins.” 14016 Highway NN, Louisiana, Missouri, facebook.com/diffeypumpkins Inspired Local Food Culture

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PROMOTION 3.

1.

4.

2.

STL

Check out the dishes these local chefs are excited about adding to their fall menus. EDITED BY BETHANY CHRISTO

1. BoundARy

JOSEPH CIZEK EXECUTIVE CHEF

“Executive chef Brian Price loves

pairing Boundary’s GRILLED CANADIAN SALMON entrée with a full-bodied wine on cool autumn days, cozied up next to the St. Louis restaurant’s crackling fireplace. The salmon is served with mashed sweet potatoes, roasted baby heirloom carrots and a peppered honey-pecan sauce. “Using seasonal ingredients is key,” Price says. “

“The LYONNAISE SALAD is a seasonal offering on Chaz on the Plaza’s new fall menu and features frisée lettuce, mixed greens, warm bacon vinaigrette, bacon lardons and pickled red onions. Chaz executive chef Joseph Cizek gives this classic French salad a fresh twist by topping it with a panko-breaded egg rather than the traditional poached egg. “The bacon vinaigrette is one of our favorite components of the dish, as it’s warm and comforting – the perfect start to any meal on a chilly fall day,” Cizek says.“

7036 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.932.7818, boundary-stl.com

325 Ward Parkway, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.802.2152, raphaelkc.com/chazontheplaza

2. Q39

ROB MAGEE CHEF-OWNER

“Q39’s award-winning BURNT END

BURGER is barbecue with a twist – combining two Kansas City favorites with a spicy kick. The combination of the wood fire-grilled burger topped with sliced burnt ends, classic barbecue sauce and spicy pickle slaw made with fresh cabbage and jalapeños delivers an explosion of flavors and landed the Burnt End Burger on many best-burger lists nationwide.“ 1000 W. 39th St., Kansas City, Missouri, 816.255.3753; and 11051 Antioch Road, Overland Park, Kansas, 913.951.4500; q39kc.com

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3. CHAz on THE PlAzA

BRIAN PRICE EXECUTIVE CHEF

KC

52

KC

STL

4. GRACE MEAT + THREE

RICK LEWIS CHEF AND CO-OWNER

“Check out seasonal sides from Grace Meat + Three this fall, including the returning-favorite BOURBON WHIPPED SWEET POTATOES with toasted mallows. Chef Rick Lewis goes all out in this Southern-inspired holiday side dish, which features a baked sweet potato whipped with buttery bourbon syrup that’s topped with torched housemade vanilla mallows.“ 4270 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.533.2700, stlgrace.com


PROMOTION

7.

5.

9.

PhOTO By AMELIA RAy PhOTOGRAPhy

11.

12. 10.

6. 8.

KC

5. THE AMERICAn ANDREW LONGRES EXECUTIVE CHEF

SGF

7. VAn GoGH’S EETERIE

KC

9. RyE

SGF

11. CAFE CuSCo

JOE DUNCAN, CHEF

“ “This dish is always a crowd-pleaser,” says The American executive chef Andrew Longres, of the BLACK TRUFFLE ARANCINIS currently on the menu. The croquettes are filled with black truffles, rice and aged Parmesan, then breaded and fried to a golden brown and dusted with more Parmesan for a delectable, indulgent bite. ”

MEGAN GARRELTS PASTRY CHEF & CO-OWNER

JOSEPH GIDMAN CHEF-OWNER

Missouri, the BRAISED BEEF HUTSPOT slow-cooks braised beef in brandy and Dutch spices, which is served over sautéed carrots and onions that are blended into mashed yukon Gold potatoes and finished with browning sauce made from the beef drippings. According to chef Joe Duncan, “This is a traditional winter dish from the Netherlands and very popular with our Springfield guests.” ”

“Rye’s signature BANANA CREAM PIE dessert is available by the slice or whole to-go and is an absolute favorite of co-owner and pastry chef Megan Garrelts. “Our banana cream pie is made with fresh banana slices coated in salted caramel and layered with silky banana pastry cream,” Garrelts says. “The filling sits inside our flaky pie crust with a thin bottom of dark chocolate, then topped with fresh whipped cream and crushed toffee and served to order.””

“”Our DRUNKEN GOAT STEW is a traditional hearty seco, which means dry and refers to being slow-cooked in alcohol,” says Cafe Cusco chef-owner Joseph Gidman. “This dish is common in the Andes Mountains and is filling on a cold winter day.” The Peruvian restaurant in Springfield, Missouri, uses New Zealand goat that’s slow-cooked in a spinach, cilantro and beer broth with various mountain herbs and vegetables for the stew.”

200 E. 25th St., Kansas City, Missouri, 816.245.7331, theamericankc.com

334 E. Commercial St., Springfield, Missouri, 417.344.0085, vangoghseeterie.com

SGF

6. THE oRdER AT HoTEl VAndIVoRT W.T. MEEKS EXECUTIVE CHEF

“At Van Gogh’s Eeterie in Springfield,

STL

8. dAlIE’S SMoKEHouSE

CRAIG BASLER GENERAL MANAGER & HEAD CHEF

“ Described as “melt-in-your-mouth delicious,”

10551 Mission Road, Leawood, Kansas, 913.642.5800; and 4646 JC Nichols Parkway, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.541.3382; ryekc.com

STL

10. THE CHoColATE PIG PATRICK RUSSELL EXECUTIVE CHEF

“ Executive chef W.T. Meeks reimagined a Springfield classic with his CASHEW CHICKEN-STYLE QUAIL winter menu item, which features crispy chicken-fried quail served on a bed of cashew rice with scallions and a tangy take on cashew sauce. “The crunchy, savory adaptation of a Springfield staple is perfect for those chilly winter months,” Meeks says. ”

the CHOCOLATE PECAN TART at Dalie’s Smokehouse in Valley Park, Missouri, lives up to the claim with semisweet chocolate, locally sourced pecans, a splash of bourbon and a healthy dollop of homemade whipped cream. The new dessert is the perfect fall bite (or two), according to general manager and head chef Craig Basler: “It captures the fall spirit and makes you feel like it’s Thanksgiving without any pumpkin needed.” ”

“ “There are so many types of comfort food, but one that stands out has always been CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS,” says The Chocolate Pig executive chef Patrick Russell. A confit chicken leg with biscuit dumplings and crème fraÎche, these will give you a big ol’ bear (or pig) hug of comfort, perfect for chilly afternoons. “

305 E. Walnut St., Springfield, Missouri, 417.851.5299, theordersgf.com

2951 Dougherty Ferry Road, Valley Park, Missouri, 636.529.1898, daliessmokehouse.com

4220 Duncan Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.272.3230, thechocolatepig.com

234 E. Commercial St., Springfield, Missouri, 417.868.8088, cafecusco.com

STL

12. VIVIAno’S ITAlIAno FESTA

BECKY PARKER, CO-OWNER

“Around the holidays, the two deli and market locations of Viviano’s Italiano Festa in Fenton and Chesterfield, Missouri, sell nearly as many sweet pastries and desserts as they do enticing Italian sandwiches, salads, soups and pastas. According to co-owner Becky Parker, the delectable traditional TIRAMISU dessert, made with ladyfingers, mascarpone cheese, espresso and Marsala, is even more popular than usual this time of year. ” 150 Four Seasons Plaza, Chesterfield, Missouri, 314.878.1474; 62 Fenton Plaza, Fenton, Missouri, 636.305.1474; vivianosmarket.com

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a

taste of home Written by Anne MArie Hunter pHotogrApHy by AngelA bond

basmati rice

saag paneer

chicken keema

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For Thanksgiving, many home cooks prepare a familiar menu – mashed potatoes, yams, greenbean casserole, pumpkin pie and, of course, turkey. Yet whatever you serve, the holiday is really about the warmth and companionship of spending time with loved ones. In the following pages, you’ll meet three families in the Kansas City area who prepare a mix of classic Thanksgiving dishes alongside those reflecting their own family traditions. From the Marquez family’s holiday feast of tamales and arroz rojo to the Ajmera-Strickland family’s "Diwaligiving" dinner, these stories illustrate what Thanksgiving is all about: comforting food cooked with love and served to those we cherish most.

aviva

ajm

e r a's

chicken keema This dish is named for keema, the Urdu word for finely chopped meat. Originally, it was used to describe minced goat meat, but today, keema dishes are made with lamb, beef or chicken. The recipe calls for ghee, clarified butter often used in Indian cooking. If you prefer coconut or canola oil, you can substitute the same amount here. SERVES | 4 to 6 |

4 2 3 3 3 2 3 to 5 1 3 2 3 1 1 2 1 2 1

Tbsp ghee cinnamon sticks bay leaves whole cloves whole green cardamom pods black cardamom pods, ground using a mortar and pestle, outer shell discarded whole dried red chiles medium red onion, finely chopped Tbsp garlic, minced tsp ginger, minced tsp garam masala tsp ground coriander tsp ground cumin tsp chile powder 6-oz can tomato paste lbs ground chicken cup frozen or canned green peas salt, to taste cooked basmati rice (to serve)

| preparation | In a cast-iron pot or Dutch oven with a lid over medium-high heat, add first 7 ingredients and sauté. When mixture begins to crackle, reduce heat to medium. Add onion and cook until translucent. Stir in garlic and ginger. When onions begin to caramelize, add next 4 ingredients. Stir until evenly incorporated. Increase heat to medium-high and add tomato paste. Stir to combine. Add ground chicken, using a spatula to break meat down into small pieces. Stir continuously, until chicken is halfway cooked; add peas and season with salt to taste. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes or until chicken is fully cooked, stirring occasionally. Divide between 4 to 6 serving plates over warm cooked basmati rice and serve.

ajmera - strickland t h e

f a m i l y

M

ore than 50 years ago, Manoj and Rita Ajmera immigrated to Wisconsin from India in search of better education opportunities. Although they planned to return to India after Manoj earned his master’s degree in civil engineering, the new parents realized that the same opportunities Manoj had in the U.S. would also benefit their young daughter, Aviva. With their daughter’s future in mind, the couple chose to make a new home in upstate New York. “Growing up, I was always told, ‘An education is one thing no one can ever take away from you,’” Aviva says. Today, Aviva has built a successful entrepreneurial career in Kansas City, with her contributions to the area’s business community widely recognized. Co-founder and chief executive officer of SoLVE, a business consulting firm, Aviva is also chair of the Women’s Capital Connection, an all-female angel investing group that supports women-led companies throughout the region. Eight years ago, she married Wayne Strickland, who shares Aviva’s love and commitment to family and family traditions. When they married, Strickland already had three adult children and Aviva had a young daughter. Today, the couple has three grandchildren. Together, they have celebrated holidays and created new traditions in which they embrace and unite their individual backgrounds. “I grew up as a first-generation immigrant and only child in upstate New York,” Aviva says. “Wayne was raised in Arkansas. Everything about our family is a merging of cultures, traditions and families.” For their first Thanksgiving together, the couple prepared a traditional menu including turkey, gravy, stuffing, ham, mashed potatoes, green-bean casserole, cranberry sauce and Wayne’s celebrated cornbread, plus pecan, apple and pumpkin pies. Although the feast was delicious and memorable, something was missing for Aviva. Over the next few years, she realized she was yearning to celebrate holidays from her own culture with the whole family – in particular, Diwali. Known as the Festival of Lights, Diwali is a multiday Hindu festival that brings together family and friends every autumn. Diwali is celebrated with feasts, dancing, music and abundant mithai (Indian sweets and desserts). The Ajmera-Strickland family celebrated Diwali annually, yet because it often fell in the middle of the week, it was difficult to gather everyone. “Diwali is one of the most widely celebrated holidays in India, and one my family always celebrated here,” Aviva says. “In many ways, it reminds me of Thanksgiving: spending time together, laughing, lots of food and taking a break from work to focus on what’s most important in life – family.” In 2013, Strickland found a solution: A new family holiday dubbed "Diwaligiving."

“Wayne wanted to honor things that were important to me and make sure I could celebrate something important to me,” Aviva says. “Really, the transition from Thanksgiving to Diwaligiving was apropos to how we do a lot of things in our family.” The celebration is now the signature holiday in the AjmeraStrickland home. “Our older kids, who are married, spend all day having traditional Thanksgiving meals with their in-law families, so they really look forward to coming to our house for Indian food,” Aviva says. “That first year, we started with one Indian item and rice. Then, the kids started making requests for more Indian dishes. Now, it’s half and half.” On Diwaligiving, the dinner table overflows with the family’s traditional Thanksgiving foods as well as Indian dishes. Favorites include raita, a side with yogurt, cucumbers, cilantro, coriander and cumin; chicken tikka masala, roasted marinated chicken in a spiced curry sauce; saag paneer, with Indian cheese and greens; basmati rice; butter chicken; chicken keema, a blend of chicken, onions, tomatoes and aromatic spices; and naan. Samosas, a fried dish with a savory filling, are served with chutney as appetizers. Wayne, Aviva, and their 17-year-old daughter, Asha, spend the morning and afternoon together preparing the meal. Wayne makes the ham, dressing and other traditional Thanksgiving fare, Asha makes dessert and Aviva prepares the Indian dishes. When their adult children and grandchildren arrive in the afternoon, the home, illuminated by candles and holiday lights, is filled with the aromas of sage and cinnamon, cardamom and cumin, and cornbread and chicken keema. “Most days of the year, you live your life, but when you have a holiday that brings cultures together like this, it makes you pause and reflect," Strickland says. "Our family learns about this culture, everyone’s world expands, and it’s so fun.” Inspired Local Food Culture

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“ when

i was growing up , thanksgiving was one of the few days each year my parents weren ’ t working ,” says ernesto marquez , the eldest of the three children . “ i woke up smelling salsa for pozole , and had a warm feeling knowing that big pot was on the stove . at that moment, i realized it was thanksgiving morning.”

clockwise from top left: Vegetables are roasted to dress the torta de pollo; tacos de carne al vapor; torta de pollo; pozole rojo.

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t h e

marquez f a m i l y

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n 1982, 14-year-old Antonia Diaz and her family left their home in Mexico for California. While her parents worked factory jobs, Antonia, the second of eight children, helped care for her siblings. Although daily life was focused on work, the Diaz family still made time to celebrate their family traditions and also establish new ones in America. During their first year in the U.S., one of those celebrations was Antonia’s November birthday – which, that year, happened to fall over Thanksgiving weekend. For the first time, the family cooked and shared an American Thanksgiving meal. Turkey, stuffing and mashed potatoes were on the menu, and Antonia’s mother also prepared Mexican dishes, including frijoles rancheros (pinto beans stewed with onion, garlic, cilantro, chiles, bacon and chorizo) and cochinita pipil (a pulled pork dish) to accompany the traditional American fare. “There’s not a holiday similar to Thanksgiving in Mexico, so a big part of this was an opportunity to celebrate like everyone else in the States, but we also included our own traditions,” Antonia recalls.

As a newlywed, Antonia cooked her first Thanksgiving turkey that year. Like her mother, she served classic Mexican dishes, including her family’s favorite, pozole, a traditional Mexican stew often served as a celebratory dish. Antonia’s pozole rojo, which is common in Zacatecas and other northern states of Mexico, brims with pork, hominy, cabbage, salsa, guajillo chiles, onions and garlic. The young couple also incorporated El Salvadoran dishes from Marquez’s childhood, including torta de pollo, a spicy chicken sandwich served on savory bolillo rolls. In 2001, the couple and their three small children – Ernesto, Bianka and Cristian – left California for Kansas City. The Marquez family also brought a decade of Thanksgiving dinner traditions with them. Since settling in Kansas City, the family has hosted Thanksgivings for more than two dozen friends and family members each year. A daylong celebration, the menu still includes a blend of their favorite American, Mexican and El Salvadoran dishes. At the Marquez Thanksgiving table, turkey with all the trimmings is served alongside tamales, arroz rojo, a Mexican red rice dish; tacos de carne al vapor (filled with steamed and braised beef); camote en dulce, a Mexican sweet potato dessert topped with caramelized brown sugar; and buñuelos, fried dough balls sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar that are popular throughout Latin America. Antonia’s pozole, which she has been perfecting for decades, is the star of the family’s Thanksgiving feast. “When I was growing up, Thanksgiving was one of the few days each year my parents weren’t working,” says Ernesto, the eldest of the three children. “I woke up smelling salsa for pozole, and had a warm feeling knowing that big pot was on the stove. At that moment, I realized it was Thanksgiving morning.” Antonia begins preparing her pozole the night before by cleaning the guajillo chiles and leaving them to soak in water overnight. On Thanksgiving morning, she prepares the meat, and while it simmers for several hours, Ernesto is in charge of stirring the pot. Next, she drains the chiles and blends them with bay leaves, garlic and other spices and pours them into the stew. She then adds pig’s feet and hominy, and lets the mixture simmer for another hour or so, filling her home with a comforting, spicy aroma. “Aside from my mom asking us to watch the pozole pot, she doesn’t ask for any help in the kitchen on Thanksgiving,” Ernesto says. “Occasionally, we’ll help chop vegetables as we get closer to eating. Other than that, she cooks everything herself. So, we all usually sit around in the living room watching movies or football games. There’s a nice, warm, cozy feeling surrounding the kitchen and living room as we wait.” Each Thanksgiving, the Marquez children look forward to this delicious blending of traditions and memories their family has created over the years.

antonia

While the Diaz family was building their new life and traditions in the U.S., Jose Marquez, Antonia’s future husband, was in the process of emigrating from El Salvador. After serving two years in the military during the country’s civil war, Marquez escaped the strife in his native country and settled with his sister in California. Shortly after arriving in the U.S., Marquez met Antonia through mutual friends, and they married in 1990.

qu m a r e z 's

pozole rojo Marquez’s pozole recipe has its roots in Zacatecas, a state in north-central Mexico, northwest of Mexico City. SERVES | 10 to 12 | Chiles

3 lbs guajillo chiles, destemmed and deseeded

Pork Broth and Pig’s Feet

6 lbs pig’s feet 2 bay leaves 1 onion, quartered salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Pozole

7 12 1 2

1 4 1 1 1 1

lbs pork shoulder, cubed garlic cloves, divided onion, quartered bay leaves salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste soaked guajillo chiles (recipe below) pork broth (recipe below) 32-oz can hominy cups radishes, roughly chopped, divided (to serve) cabbage, roughly chopped, divided (to serve) bunch cilantro, roughly chopped, divided (to serve) onion, finely chopped, divided (to serve) dried oregano (to serve) lime, cut into wedges, divided (to serve) tortilla chips or tostadas (to serve)

| preparation – chiles | A day before making pozole, add chiles to a bowl of water. Soak overnight at room temperature. Drain just before adding to pozole. | preparation – pork broth and pig’s feet | In a medium saucepan with a lid over medium-low heat, add pig’s feet, bay leaves and onion and season with salt and pepper to taste. Simmer until thoroughly cooked, 2 to 3 hours. Drain liquid and reserve; reserve pig’s feet and discard bay leaves and onions. Set aside. | preparation – pozole | In a stockpot over medium heat, add pork shoulder, 4 garlic cloves, onion and bay leaves and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover with 2 inches of water. Simmer for 4 hours. In the bowl of a blender, blend soaked and drained guajillo chiles with 4 garlic cloves and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add 1 cup pork broth and season with salt and pepper to taste. Once blended, strain chile mixture into stockpot with pork shoulder. Add reserved pig’s feet and bring to a boil. Add hominy and reduce heat to low. Simmer for 45 minutes.

| to serve | Divide hot pozole between 10 to 12 soup bowls and top with equal parts “Thanksgiving is an American holiday we embrace,” Ernesto says, “but like people from other countries, we also bring our own culture and background.”

radishes, cabbage, cilantro, onion and oregano. Serve with lime wedges and tortilla chips or tostadas on the side. Inspired Local Food Culture

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dumala - kuchibhotla The couple shared a Thanksgiving reunion in Denver in 2016 with nearly a dozen Indian friends who had traveled from across the U.S. Although the reunion was joyous, Dumala was already looking forward to hosting the holiday at her own home again the next year. Tragically, that Thanksgiving dinner was never celebrated. On Feb. 22, 2017, Kuchibhotla was fatally shot at a restaurant just minutes from their home in Olathe. His killer was found guilty of premeditated first-degree murder, sentenced to 50 years in prison without parole, and later pled guilty to additional federal hate-crime charges for a total of three life sentences. “Last year, I planned to celebrate Thanksgiving with my husband and friends, but in a moment, my hopes for our lives were taken away,” she says. “Srinivas was the love of my life.” After losing her husband, Dumala returned to her family in India to begin healing and contemplate if she wanted to continue living in America. After months of soul-searching, she made her decision and returned to Olathe. “I chose to come back to fulfill the dreams my husband and I had when we came here,” she says. “Yes, there is one man [who] showed me the worst here, but there are many people [who] showed me the best of America. The love I received from the community brought me back. Fulfilling those dreams, the same dreams other immigrants have, was my answer.”

S

unayana Dumala immigrated to the U.S. in 2005. It was here that she met her husband, Srinivas Kuchibhotla, a fellow immigrant from India. Together, they fulfilled a mutual dream of building their lives and futures in America. Throughout several moves – from Minnesota to Iowa to the Kansas City area in 2014 – celebrating American holidays, including Thanksgiving, became important new traditions for the couple. “I heard about Thanksgiving when we first moved to the U.S.,” Dumala says. “One thing that attracted me is that it’s a harvest festival. I could tie it back to Makar Sankranti, our Indian harvest festival [in January].” While living in Iowa, Dumala and Kuchibhotla celebrated their first Thanksgiving with Indian friends who had become like family. “That Thanksgiving was a great experience,” Dumala remembers. “We had turkey. They also made Indian curries and sides.” Indian dishes included khandvi, a savory appetizer from the Indian state of Gujarat made with flour and yogurt and served with chutney, and biryani, a rice dish made with meat or vegetables and aromatic spices. Vegetable biryani is Dumala’s specialty. “Whenever I cook biryani, it reminds me of my home in India,” she says. “India is a spice-rich country. Each ingredient has its own uniqueness: The fragrance of bay leaf, cinnamon, cloves, ginger and garlic add to the dish. Although each spice has its own taste, when combined, they make one distinctive dish.” Over the next few years, the couple continued celebrating Thanksgiving with friends in the U.S. when they weren’t visiting family in India. In 2014, they hosted their first Thanksgiving at their new home in Olathe, Kansas, where they had moved after Kuchibhotla accepted an engineering position with Garmin. “Our friends came from Cedar Rapids, [Iowa,] and we all cooked together,” Dumala says. “We had mashed potatoes, and I attempted to do green-bean casserole. I had never made anything like it before, so I was going outside of my comfort zone, but everyone liked it.”

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In the past year, Dumala formed a nonprofit, Forever Welcome, which aims to generate empathy and understanding for immigrants across the U.S. by bringing their personal journeys and contributions in their communities to light. “Forever Welcome gives me the courage and strength to move forward,” Dumala says. “I want to help those who have the same dreams I have, to show them they can still come true. America doesn’t just give you a place to fulfill your dreams or provide a better quality of life, it also gives us all a chance to explore the world’s cultures without going around the world. When we welcome immigrants, we’re giving ourselves an opportunity to learn and respect these cultures.” Although she's focused on the future, Dumala still faces heartache daily. “It’s an everyday struggle,” she says. “When you lose a loved one, the holidays aren’t the same.” Nevertheless, Dumala is dedicated to her dreams. She's even creating new traditions despite her overwhelming loss. “Last year, I started a Thanksgiving tradition,” she says. “I took Louisburg Cider Mill donuts [from Louisburg, Kansas,] to my husband’s colleagues at Garmin. It was a way to remember him and to say thank you. I’m going to do that again this year.” Dumala is also making plans for a Thanksgiving gathering this November. “This Thanksgiving will be a potluck," she says. "I want my friends to relax, talk, eat, enjoy and catch up on what’s happening in each other’s lives.” This Thanksgiving, as in year’s past, Dumala’s table will feature Indian appetizers, curries, rice and desserts served alongside traditional Thanksgiving fare. Dumala will cook vegetable biryani, her specialty, and pinwheels made with paneer cheese. Serving these comforting dishes for Thanksgiving unites Dumala with her roots while also deepening her connection to her home in Olathe. “Food connects all of us,” Dumala says. “Thanksgiving is a way to make new friendships and build stronger community.”

umala ad '

s

f a m i l y

sunayan

t h e

vegetable biryani Also known as biriyani, biriani, birani or briyani, biryani is a mixed rice dish popular throughout India. First served in the 16th century, biryani is made with rice, meat and vegetables – or without meat, as featured here – and an array of aromatic spices. SERVES | 4 to 5 | Deep-FrieD onions

½ 2 1 1

cup vegetable oil medium white onions, thinly sliced cup fresh mint, roughly chopped (to serve) cup fresh cilantro, roughly chopped (to serve)

Vegetable curry

4 Tbsp vegetable oil or ghee 1 tsp shah jeera (black caraway seeds or black cumin seeds) 1 tsp fresh ginger, minced 1 tsp garlic paste 3 new potatoes, peeled and cubed 2 carrots, peeled and diced 1 yellow bell pepper, finely diced 1 red bell pepper, finely diced 1 green bell pepper, finely diced ½ lb green beans, roughly chopped ½ tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp cayenne pepper 1 tsp ground coriander ½ tsp ground cumin 1 tsp garam masala 2 cups vegetable broth or water ¾ cup full-fat yogurt

rice

1 4 3 4 4 1 4 2

1-inch cinnamon stick green cardamom pods black cardamom pods whole cloves blades mace bay leaf cups water cups basmati rice, soaked in water for 45 minutes, rinsed and drained salt, to taste

| preparation – deep-fried onions | In a Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add oil. When oil is hot, add onion and fry until golden and crispy. Drain, top with cilantro and mint and set aside.

| preparation – vegetable curry | In a large Dutch oven with a lid over medium heat, add oil or ghee. Add shah jeera; cook 2 minutes. Stir in ginger and garlic paste and cook until golden brown. Add potatoes, carrots, bell peppers and green beans and stir well. Add all remaining spices and broth or water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and cook, covered, for 18 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Turn off heat and let sit, covered, for 5 minutes. Stir in yogurt. Set aside. | preparation – rice | Wrap first 6 ingredients in cheesecloth. In a stockpot with a lid, bring water to a boil; add rice, aromatics in cheesecloth and salt to taste. Cook rice until al dente: The exterior of the rice should mash when forked but the center should still be firm.

| assembly | Preheat oven to 375°F. Divide cooked rice into 2 portions. Spread a single layer of rice over curry in Dutch oven. Add ½ of fried onion, mint and cilantro mixture. Top with a second layer of rice and remaining fried onions, mint and cilantro. Press a sheet of aluminum foil directly over Dutch oven to seal. Bake 15 to 20 minutes or until rice is completely cooked. Serve.


PICTURED FROM TOP LEFT: Seeds and spices for preparing biryani, including coriander seeds, ground turmeric, cardamom pods and whole cloves; mango fronds and flower garlands are hung on a string above the front door in celebration of Makar Sankranti, the harvest festival; a meditating Buddha statue inspires calming energy in Sunayana Dumalas' home; vegetable biryani is served with homemade chapati (flatbread); vegetable biryani simmers on the stove; chapati is prepared with a wooden flatbread presser and rolling pin.

Inspired Local Food Culture

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Power

On a clear, sunny afternOOn in late august, all is quiet Outside the Mill at Janie’s farM. f M. far

situated between industrial buildings and some small brick homes, the Mill currently bears no formal signage. it’s windy today, and although ashkum, illinois – about 77 miles south of chicago – is the last place you’d expect it, a tumbleweed breezes past the front door. the stillness doesn’t last for long: seconds later, a large champagne-colored truck rounds the corner up ahead, humming loudly, and parks in front of the building. the driver is harold Wilken, owner of Janie’s farm and the Mill at Janie’s farm. “this is Marvin,” he says of the truck, throwing open the passenger door. “Marvin belonged to a neighbor, another local farmer named Marvin. Marvin has so much personality that we decided we had to name the truck after him.” Marvin is just one of many examples of Wilken’s connection to the local farming community. a fifth-generation farmer, he’s been raising grain in ashkum for almost 40 years. he’ll tell you that the past 16 years have been the most fulfilling – and busiest – of his life. that’s because, in 2002, after 23 years of conventional farming, Wilken transitioned to organic. he opened the Mill in 2017, and in just a year, its output has already grown considerably.

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the farm grows both heirloom and hybrid grain varieties, from heritage turkey t red, a hard red winter wheat, to erisman, a soft red winter wheat. as with most things on the farm, Wilken personally drove to Jennings, Kansas, to get the parent seed for turkey t red from a family farm. although Wilken takes pride in his organic crops, he also grows some transitional wheat, which means it’s not certified organic yet, but in transition to become so; it takes three years for land to be certified organic. his transitional wheat flour is sold at a lower price than the organic flours produced at the Mill, making it a more affordable option for some customers. as he drives from the Mill to a few of the 2,500 acres he farms in danforth, just three miles away, the only thing that changes is the scenery. it’s quiet in his fields of wheat, and Wilken seems to appreciate the calm. that’s probably because he doesn’t get a lot of it these days; his cellphone, currently inside one of Marvin’s cupholders, is constantly buzzing with calls and texts from clients, farmers, chefs, bakers and even university researchers. last week, Wilken was in upstate new y york to buy used equipment for the mill. this morning, he was picking up wheat from a farm he contracts with nearby, and tomorrow he’s giving three local farmers a tour of his operation, as they’re hoping to also make the jump from farming with chemicals to organic. his voice is a little hoarse today, but a smile never leaves his face.


At The Mill at Janie’s Farm, organic grain is grown and made into high-quality stone-ground flour. Written by liz miller PhotograPhy by Judd demaline

“When we started going organic, I had a neighbor come over – he’s 10 years older than me – and he said, ‘Harold, I’m worried about you. If you go organic, you’ll never rent another piece of ground. Nobody is going to have anything to do with you; you’re going to be all on your own.’” Wilken says. “And I said, ‘I thank you very much for your concern, but I feel that this is what I have to do.’ That was about 1,700 acres ago.”

One thing that noticeably separates Wilken’s fields of wheat from most neighboring farms are signs proudly announcing that his crops are organic and that chemicals aren’t sprayed here – and can’t be. At Janie’s Farm, Wilken, working alongside his business partner, his 27-year-old son, Ross, raises crops to U.S. Department of Agriculture and Organic Crop Improvement Association standards. Organic farming always made sense to Wilken, but for most of his life, that path didn’t seem viable. He still remembers the way his grandparents farmed their land without the use of herbicides and pesticides and a focus on nurturing strong soil health. His family

has long had a farm near Sedalia, Missouri, as well, and his childhood memories of farming without chemicals never left him. However, when Wilken was just beginning his career in the 1970s, most farmers in his area had transitioned to what’s known today as conventional farming. This style of farming saw rapid expansion in America during the ‘50s and ‘60s and relies on the use of chemicals to grow commodity monocrops like corn and soybeans. On a conventional farm, crops are sprayed with herbicides and pesticides to combat disease and insects; once harvested, they’re cleaned and processed. Unlike with corn and soybeans, though, there’s no formal process for cleaning grains: This means that when conventional wheat is milled into flour, for example, residual chemicals linger in the final product. “In the 1990s, I was a conventional farmer and hated it – I hated when I had to spray Roundup,” Wilken says, pulling Marvin off the main road. “I was just miserable, and you could never get ahead.” Marvin is now cruising through the front lawn of a house and farmstead with a small orchard. This is the home of Jill Brockman-Cummings and her husband, Will. For the past two years, Brockman-Cummings has been the mill manager for The Mill at Janie’s Farm, Inspired Local Food Culture

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Harold Wilken, owner of Janie’s Farm and The Mill at Janie's Farm. ▲ ross Wilken, co-owner of Janie's Farm (pictured center) and TiM Vaske, Harold's nephew, who works at Janie's Farm and runs his own grass-fed cattle farm nearby. ▶

although she and Wilken share a much deeper history. She grew up in Congerville, Illinois – her father, Herman Brockman, was a professor at Illinois State University in nearby Normal – and her grandparents owned a farm in Danforth. In the late 1990s, Herman began purchasing his parents’ farm, and around the same time, Brockman-Cummings and her young family moved to town as well. Not a farmer by trade, Herman was looking for an organic farmer to take over the management of his land and knew that Wilken was interested in making that transition. It wouldn’t happen right away, though.

day and the sun is creeping closer toward the horizon. “I’m telling ya, there are so many… it’s not coincidences,” he says. “I miss my daughter a lot, but I also feel that she’s here. I feel she’s the one who has made the connections or helped from the other side. Somebody already had the name Spirits Farms, [so] I thought it was right to call our farm Janie’s Farm.”

“After she passed away, [Herman] contacted me in a condolence letter,” Wilken remembers. “He said, ‘I know this is not the time, but when you feel right, call me: I’d like you to consider organically farming my farm.’ And that was the beginning of a change.”

Looking back, farming Herman’s land was a turning point for Wilken. Once he gained some experience and confidence with organic growing, he diversified, expanding from corn, soybeans and wheat to oats, rye, buckwheat and alfalfa, as well, plus the heirloom grain he grows today. Since moving back to Danforth in the early 2000s, Brockman-Cummings has seen Wilken develop a reputation as the go-to organic farmer in the area. Today, he works with 22 tenant farmers, six full-time owners and employees and two part-time employees. One of those full-timers is Tim Vaske, Wilken’s nephew; Vaske maintains farm equipment for Wilken and Ross and raises a herd of grass-fed beef nearby.

Wilken steers Marvin back onto the road. After a minute or two, he pulls off again, this time near one of his alfalfa fields. He glances out the driver’s-side window; it’s getting late in the

“People just started coming to Harold,” Brockman-Cummings says. “The word was out: There’s a guy in Iroquois County and he’s farming organically. I think that’s one thing that

In 2001, Harold and his wife, Sandy, lived every parent’s nightmare: Their eldest child, Janie, died in a car accident at the age of 15.

Harold feels really good about, is that he’s employing people. It’s revitalized the economic opportunities in this area, and it just keeps growing. It’s really just been a blessing to have Harold and his son do this.” Wilken puts Marvin back in drive – it’s time to head back to The Mill. It used to be that his work was mostly in these fields, but today, he’s managing a much larger operation, with plans to grow it bigger still.

Years before the two Engsko stone mills from Denmark were installed at The Mill, Wilken, Ross and Brockman-Cummings were focused on research. They traveled to mills across the country, from Oregon to New York, to see how other people were milling grain to make whole-kernel flour. It was during a mill tour in New York that Wilken met Amy Halloran, author of The New Bread Basket. The book charts the 10,000-year history of grain growing, including how America has drifted away from local and regional milling over the past 100 years. Although people like Wilken are seeking to bring that tradition back to communities across America, it’s slow going. Inspired Inspired LocalLocal FoodFood Culture Culture nov ema mbe r crh 22018 018

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“Harold is a demonstration of exactly what’s missing to help create regional grain economies," Halloran says. "The mill is not just set up to benefit his farm, but to help several growers. He’s not looking just to process his own grain – no mill is. They’re engines of regional economies that eventually provide a market for a lot more than a single farm. The interest in a local or regional grain product and economy is coming along, but it’s much slower than other areas of local food, because [mills] – that intermediate processing facility – [have] disappeared, and because that processing facility is so expensive to create. Consumers being able to taste the difference figures into the equation of the value you put on the product, too.” Unlike a bag of white all-purpose flour you buy at the grocery store, The Mill’s flours vary in color, from grayish-blue rye and rosy Turkey Red to light brown Glenn bread flour. “They’re not the same product,” Brockman-Cummings says of most industrially milled flours. “There’s no flavor from their flour. It’s a medium, whereas ours is a medium with flavor and nutrition.” All of the flours produced at The Mill are whole-kernel, which means the nutrition in the bran and germ – including oils, vitamins, proteins, amino acids and minerals – are left intact. This is achieved with those Danish Engsko stone mills; most large industrial mills use high-speed roller mills, which process out the bran and germ. “The fat and flavor lie in the bran and the germ of the kernel, and largely in the germ,” Halloran says. “That germ is not reintegrated in a supermarket product because it has short shelf life, it’s very volatile and you want stability. To have true stone milling increases flavor tremendously, regardless of the characteristics of the grain itself.”

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“The faT and flavor lie in The bran and The germ of The kernel, and largely in The germ,” halloran says. “ThaT germ is noT reinTegraTed in a supermarkeT producT because iT has a shorT shelf life, iT’s very volaTile and you wanT sTabiliTy. To have True sTone milling increases flavor Tremendously, regardless of The characTerisTics of The grain iTself.”


jill Brockman-cummings, mill manager at The Mill at Janie’s Farm ▶

Entering The Mill, the first thing you’ll notice is the chilly temperature. In the summer, The Mill is kept at around 58°F and rises as the machinery runs; in the winter, the temperature hovers at around 45°F. The stones are kept cool, as well, at no more than 100°F year-round. “We keep it cool because our flour is alive; it has all the oils in it, so that’s one way to keep it fresh – to keep it as cool as possible,” Brockman-Cummings says, pointing to a row of pallets stacked with 50-pound bags of flour. “Outside it’s pretty [hot] today, and that wouldn’t be good for the flour.” Prior to their research for The Mill, neither Wilken nor Brockman-Cummings had experience milling flour. The importance of keeping the grain, flour and equipment at a consistent temperature was just one lesson they learned along the way. Brockman-Cummings had to learn the ins and outs of the two Engsko stone mills – one for milling finer bread and pastry flours and the other for coarser all-purpose and heirloom flours. “You need to feel it; a lot of it is ‘see by feel,’” she says. “In the beginning, I always tell people that the first kind of flour I milled was sand, because I didn’t really have any experience milling. Based on the kind of grain, you can push the flour against your palm and tell how gritty it is – so if I need to tighten the stones, loosen the stones. That’s why, periodically – 10 to 15 minutes max – I check the flour to make sure. You don’t want to get 2,000 pounds in here and it’s all wasted because you made a mistake in the milling and created a product you can't sell.” Today, she’s milling Turkey Red heirloom wheat to make Mackinaw – all of The Mill’s flours are named for rivers in Illinois – an unsifted 100 percent whole-grain flour with a sweet vanilla-cream and spicy black pepper flavor. Whole kernels of Turkey Red are fed into the mill and ground into a coarse flour before being spun in a cyclone to separate dust particles. Flour is then sifted through three different chambers based on the fineness of the grind. At this stage, Brockman-Cummings will feel the flour to see if the texture is correct. If it’s feeling good, the flour is spun once more through the cyclone and then deposited into holding tanks.

This mill can process between 400 and 500 pounds of flour in an hour; the other one, used for finer flours, can produce 300 to 350 per hour. On an average milling day, The Mill produces between 500 and 1,000 pounds of flour. Because freshness is a key concern, most of the flour is milled to order. The Mill’s largest distributors are in Chicago and St. Louis who ferry 50-pound bags of flour to restaurants and bakeries, but Wilken still delivers some of it himself. Although chefs and bakers currently make up the bulk of The Mill’s business, 2-pound bags of flour are also sold online, with orders coming in from as far away as Pennsylvania, West Virginia, California and Wisconsin. Halloran knows that it will take time for chefs and bakers – let alone home cooks – to understand the value of buying organically grown and stone-ground flour, yet it’s happening, even if slowly. “Consumers don’t understand how much they are supporting by dedicating extra funds to alternative flour,” Halloran says. “Anything we can do to help businesses like Harold’s and bakeries who rely on his flours succeed is going to go a lot further than what it costs us.”

At J. Devoti Trattoria in St. Louis, the foundation of the menu is housemade pasta, pizza and bread. Chef-owner Anthony Devoti has always sourced as much local and organic produce, meat and dairy as possible – including growing fruit and vegetables in the restaurant's backyard garden. When he learned that he could source organic flour from The Mill, it felt like finding a missing puzzle piece. “It’s the only kind of organic flour that I’ve ever found [grown and milled] locally,” Devoti says. “It works very similar to a lot of other wheat flours. The grind seems a little finer to me. But what really puts it ahead of the game, I think, is the richness and the sweetness that you get from a super-fresh milled wheat. It’s a fresh product; you can really taste the flavor.” Devoti uses The Mill’s Chicago, a finely sifted bread flour, in all of the restaurant’s bread and pizza doughs, and the Iroquois all-purpose flour to make fresh pasta. “As a society, it’s fun to get back to that old-school thing of having very local food, kind of like Grandma and Grandpa,” Devoti says. “We’ve gotten away from cooking properly. Hopefully that ‘trend’ of people cooking and eating locally and seasonally will soon not be a trend and we can keep the local, sustainable, handmade food belief going.” Inspired Local Food Culture

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WaBash Organic artisan BreaD FlOur calumet Organic glenn WhOle-Kernel BreaD FlOur

macKinaW Organic turKey reD WhOle-Kernel FlOur

Organic WhOle-Kernel rye FlOur

Des Plaines Organic Pastry FlOur

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Seed Bread flax and sunflower seed, flax meal rye with sourdough; Wheat Sourdough with Missouri oats; and Sea-Salt Focaccia at J. Devoti Trattoria. ▶ VegetaBle Pizza with a blend of four cheeses, garden-grown pepperoncini, oyster mushrooms and garden-grown shishito peppers on a wheat-sourdough crust at J. Devoti Trattoria. ▼

Katie Brown has a similar perspective. As executive chef at Raintree School, a Reggio-inspired “forest school” for ages 2 to 7 in Town and Country, Missouri, her work focuses on teaching young people about seasonal and sustainable food. On Thursdays, the students participate in “bread day,” where they learn how to make bread from scratch. This aligns with the school’s mission to teach students about the natural world and sustainable agriculture. “[Students] use The Mill’s flour for that recipe, and the kids get a chance to practice with measuring, smelling and feeling ingredients,” Brown says. “It gives them a chance to see the full circle of where food comes from.” At Raintree, Brown also uses The Mill’s Iroquois all-purpose flour for pancakes for breakfast, cupcakes for class parties and bread for snack time. “I really enjoy the crustiness of it – it kind of has a spongier texture than the all-purpose [flour] at the grocery store,” Brown says. Some of The Mill’s other early clients in the St. Louis area included Union Loafers, Companion Baking and Vicia; Wilken also works with Eat Here St. Louis, a farm-to-restaurant purveyor. In the Kansas City area, The Mill has been working with Ibis Bakery for about a year. When Will Berndt, a head baker and the bread production manager at Ibis, placed his first large order, the shipment came with a surprise. “I expected it to be shipped by a company, and [Harold] showed up driving his own truck,” Berndt says with a laugh. “It was pretty funny. When I need grain, he’ll show up like three days later, still delivering it himself.” Unlike most of Wilken’s clients, Ibis doesn’t buy flour, but rather, whole grain. Currently, Ibis is milling Janie Farm’s whole-wheat kernels in-house for most pastries and all of its breads, including the seeded multigrain bread. “We mix it with a lot of our heirloom wheats, and it just gives it a little more structure,” Berndt says. “They offer varieties that we haven’t been able to get anywhere else. It’s always clean, it makes great bread, and compared to some other places, it’s definitely a higher-quality product.” Today, The Mill has been up and running for almost a year. Now that Wilken is confident in its production and it has established a reputation for milling quality products, he’s ready for what’s next. He soon hopes to offer organic blue, white, yellow and red corn in addition to the cornmeal he already sells, and he recently purchased a hulling machine for oats, which he’s looking to begin testing out by Christmas. And with grant money from Chicago-based chef Rick Bayless’ Frontera Farmer Foundation, Wilken was able to buy a semi-automatic bagger to package those 2-pound bags of flour destined for home cooks. Eventually, he’d also like to open a retail store and bakery at home in Iroquois County so that he can more easily share his and other local foods with the community. He sees the farm and mill as his way of giving back to the land and the area's economy, and to feed people healthy, nutritious food. The road hasn’t always been smooth, but with the support of his colleagues, friends and family – and Marvin, of course – Wilken is in it for the long haul. “You’ve got a farm boy here who’s half Missourian, half from Illinois, born and raised in a rural county, who has had his world opened up amazingly through this,” Wilken says. “I mean, I know now what good food is. It’s like, where was I? At 58… I wish I was 38. Why didn’t I get a chance to do this when I [was younger]? But it [wasn’t] here. One of my passions is to bring it here, so that kids who are growing up nowadays have a chance to eat good food.” 405 N. 2nd St., Ashkum, Illinois, 815.644.4032, themillatjaniesfarm.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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When it comes to autumnal flavors, we tend to think of apple and pumpkin recipes galore – yet pears are one of the most delicious fruits of fall. Plus, pears have a soft and buttery texture, perfect for eating raw or folding into your favorite seasonal dishes. In the following pages, I’ve put pears to work in seven ways, from baked treats and stuffing to mulled wine and a savory puff pastry hors d’oeuvre. This Thanksgiving, integrate pears into your feast as an appetizer, side dish or sweet last course: The savory tart and puff pastries pair perfectly with the spiced mulled wine for pre-dinner entertaining, while the sausage-pear dressing and vegan pumpkin-pear soup fit right in with all your favorite holiday staples. End your meal with the mini pear pie crumbles or maple-pear cheesecake – or both! After all, just like the holidays, pear season is fleeting and s h o u l d b e s a v o r e d.

STory, rEcIPES And PhoTogrAPhy by AmAnDA WilenS

From-Scratch Pie-Crust Dough If you want to try your hand at making this at home instead of buying a prebaked frozen crust, here’s my go-to recipe for flaky, buttery pie crust. Yields | 1 8-oz pie crust |

2½ 2 ½ 2 6

cups all-purpose flour Tbsp granulated sugar tsp kosher salt sticks unsalted butter, cut into ¼-inch cubes Tbsp cold water

| preparation | in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together flour, sugar and salt on medium speed. Add butter, using a spoon to combine it with flour mixture. Mix on low to medium speed until texture resembles coarse sand. While still running the mixer on low to medium speed, slowly drizzle in cold water. continue mixing until a cohesive dough comes together. transfer dough to a floured work surface; knead and create a ball. slice in half, wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate for a minimum of 10 minutes before using.


Pear Mini Pies Yields | 10 mini pies |

Crumble Topping ½ cup brown sugar ½ cup all-purpose flour ½ cup rolled oats 1½ tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground allspice ¼ tsp ground ginger ¼ tsp ground nutmeg ¹⁄₈ tsp ground cloves 1 tsp lemon zest ¹⁄₃ cup cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes Mini Pies 1 lemon, juiced ¼ cup granulated sugar 5 Anjou or Concorde pears, peeled, halved and cored 1 8-oz sheet pie-crust dough (homemade or thawed premade frozen) egg wash (1 egg whisked with 2 Tbsp water) To Serve vanilla ice cream whipped cream caramel sauce

| preparation – crumble topping | Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large mixing bowl, combine all dry ingredients. Add lemon zest. Using a fork, cut and mix butter into mixture until ingredients clump together and create a crumble. Transfer crumble to parchment paper-lined baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes or until crisp and browned. Allow to cool.

| preparation – mini pies | Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large mixing bowl, combine lemon juice and sugar. Add pear halves and toss to coat. Lay pears core-side down on a large cutting board. Set aside. On a floured work surface, roll out pie-crust dough until about ¹⁄₃-inch thick. Lay dough on top of pears on cutting board. Using a knife, cut around pear halves, then wrap and tuck dough around each pear half. Tuck and press dough into pears. Transfer pears, face down, onto parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Brush dough with egg wash. Bake for 25 minutes or until golden brown.

| to serve | Sprinkle crumble topping over mini pies and top with ice cream or whipped cream and caramel sauce; serve.

These personal-sized pies are as fun to make as they are to eat. They keep the shape of the pear halves – for a pleasing photo finish – and the crumble and toppings allow you to customize each one. Inspired Local Food Culture

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Gouda-Pear Puff Pastry Yields | 9 puff pastries |

1 10-by-15-inch frozen puff pastry sheet, thawed and cut into 3-by-3-inch pieces egg wash (1 egg whisked with 2 Tbsp water) 6 oz Gouda, sliced into ½-inch pieces 2 firm Anjou or Asian pears, sliced into ¹⁄₃-inch pieces 3 Tbsp honey 2 to 3 sprigs fresh thyme, destemmed

| preparation | Preheat oven to 400°F. line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place puff pastry on baking sheet and brush with egg wash. On each puff pastry, layer 1 piece of Gouda, a few pear slices, a drizzle of honey and a pinch of thyme. Bake for 15 to 17 minutes or until puff pastry is golden brown. Remove from oven, let cool slightly and serve.

These little puff-pastry appetizers are easy to make and ideal for no-fuss holiday entertaining. They take less than 30 minutes to prepare and are sure to be a hit with your guests.

With about 3,000 varieties of pears grown across the world, it can be hard to know which to use for what. Most pears are in season in November, though, so feel free to experiment. Just be sure to test the texture of pears before buying them, but be gentle – pears bruise easily. Look for fruit with soft skin around the neck.

anjou

concorde

The chief winter pear of North America, Anjous have a lopsided shape, yellowish-green skin, firm flesh and a sweet flavor.

A cross between Comice and Conference pears, Concordes have a yellowish-green skin, dense texture and a juicy, vanillalike flavor.

asian sian Also known as a Chinese pear, Asian pears have a sweet flavor and complex texture, ranging from juicy and crunchy to firm and granular. They vary in size and color, from large and golden brown to small and green.

Bosc sometimes called a buerre Bosc, Boscs are all-purpose winter pears with long, tapering necks and dark golden skins. They have a slightly gritty yet juicy texture and a sweet, buttery flavor.

seckel All-purpose seckel pears have a reddish-brown skin, firm texture and a sweet, slightly spicy flavor.

starkrimson Known as “the crimson pear,” starkrimsons have a deep-red skin, subtle floral aroma, smooth texture and mild, sweet flavor.

these pear varieties hold their shape For cooking and baking, and can also be consumed raw 76

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Whether you prefer to use a medium-body white or red wine for this recipe, be sure to select a stainless-steel fermented dry style with slight fruity notes – oaky flavors should be avoided. I recommend a Sauvignon Blanc or Merlot. Also, a softer pear variety like Comice or Forelle is great for this recipe, as it will release more flavor, but keep in mind that it will also be messier!

Spiced Pear Mulled Wine SErvES | 8 to 10 |

2 ½ ½ 4 ½ 1 ½ 2 2 2

bottles medium-bodied dry red or white wine cup brandy cup brown sugar Comice or Forelle pears, thinly sliced, plus more for garnish orange, thinly sliced vanilla bean pod, split open inch fresh ginger, thinly sliced, smashed with a knife cinnamon sticks, plus more for garnish tsp whole cloves tsp allspice berries

| preparation | In a stockpot over medium-low heat, add wine, brandy and brown sugar. In a piece of cheesecloth, add all remaining ingredients. Tie cheesecloth closed using kitchen twine and add to pot. Let wine mull for 45 to 60 minutes; don’t let mixture reach a boil. remove cheesecloth bag, stir, garnish with cinnamon sticks or pear slices and serve warm.

Some pears are too juicy and soft for cooking or baking and will fall apart. There are exceptions, though: I suggested Bartlett, Bartlett Bell-shaped Bartlett pears come in a range of colors – yellowish-green, red and light green – and have a smooth, buttery texture and sweet, slightly musky flavor. In the U.K., they are more commonly known as Williams pears.

ComiCe Known as Doyenné du Comice in France – which translates to “top of the show” – this broad, blunt variety has a greenish-yellow to red-blushed yellow skin, a smooth, firm texture and a sweet flavor.

Forelle Believed to have originated in northern Saxony in the 17th century, Forelles are thought to be one of the oldest European pears. Their signatures include a coloring – forelle means trout in German, and the fruit was named for its resemblance to rainbow trout – crisp texture and tangy flavor.

Comice or Forelle pears for the pumpkin-pear soup and spiced pear mulled wine recipes, as their softer texture will aid, not inhibit the final results.

These pear varieties are the best for eating raw or using in salads, for canning, jam-making and in drinks Inspired Local Food Culture

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This tart is a delicious addition to your holiday table and also makes a great breakfast for the day after your feast. Although simple to prepare, you can make it look oh-so-fancy with the right styling of pears and figs.

Pear of Tarts

| preparation | Preheat oven for 350°F.

SeRveS | 8 to 10 |

Roll out pie-crust dough and place inside a lightly greased and floured tart pan. Push dough against edges and into the corners of pan; remove and discard excess. Spread chèvre evenly across the bottom.

1 8-oz sheet pie-crust dough (homemade or thawed premade frozen) 5 oz room temperature chèvre 1 to 2 Concorde or Anjou pears, sliced into ¹⁄₃-inch pieces ²⁄₃ cups fresh figs, destemmed and sliced 3 Tbsp honey 3 Tbsp olive oil 2 Tbsp fresh rosemary, roughly chopped ¼ tsp salt 2 Tbsp Feta, plus more for garnish

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In a small mixing bowl, toss pears, figs, honey, oil, rosemary and salt. Using your hands, arrange pears and figs over chèvre, first layering pears along the outer edge and adding figs as you move inward. Brush entire top of tart with remaining honey-herb mixture; sprinkle Feta on top. Bake for 22 to 25 minutes, until crust is golden brown. Let cool. Remove from pan, garnish with more Feta, cut into slices and serve.


Vegan Pumpkin-Pear Soup ServeS | 4 to 6 |

4 1 2 1 10 4

Tbsp olive oil 4- to 6-lb pie pumpkin, cubed Comice or Bartlett pears, peeled and diced sweet onion, peeled and diced fresh sage leaves, roughly chopped cups vegetable broth salt and freshly ground black pepper pepitas or fresh pear slices (to serve)

| preparation | In a large, high-lipped 5- or 6-quart sauté pan, add olive oil and pumpkin and cook for 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add pear, onion and sage and cover, keeping lid slightly ajar to allow steam to escape. Cook 8 to 10 minutes more, until pear and pumpkin are tender. Add vegetable broth and heat, covered, until fruit is soft. Pour ingredients into the bowl of a blender or food processor (this may need to be done in batches) or blend in sauté pan using an immersion blender; blend until smooth. If desired, pour soup through a fine-mesh sieve for a smoother texture. Season with salt and pepper to taste, top with pepitas or fresh pear slices and serve.

As winter weather sets in, November is the time of year to perfect your soup game. This pumpkin-pear number is so rich and creamy you’d never guess it was dairy-free.

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I recommend using one- or two-day-old baguettes for the dressing: This is important for achieving a crisp texture.

Sausage-Pear Dressing SeRveS | 8 to 10 |

1 ¾ 1 to 2 2½ 1 1½ ½ 2 1½ 1½ 2 to 3 2 1 2½ 2

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lb crusty baguette, torn into 1-inch pieces cup unsalted butter, plus more for greasing baking dish garlic cloves, minced cups yellow onion, roughly chopped lb sweet Italian sausage, casing removed, sliced into coins cups thinly sliced leeks cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Tbsp roughly chopped fresh sage Tbsp roughly chopped fresh rosemary Tbsp roughly chopped fresh thyme Bosc or Anjou pears tsp salt tsp freshly ground black pepper cups chicken broth, divided eggs

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| preparation | Preheat oven to 250°F. On a lipped baking sheet, evenly spread out pieces of bread. Bake for about 1 hour or until dried out. Remove from oven and place in a large glass or metal bowl. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt butter. Add garlic and onion and cook for 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant. Add sausage and stir occasionally until cooked through. Add leeks and herbs; cook until leeks soften, about 7 to 9 minutes. Add pears, salt and pepper. Stir for about 2 to 4 minutes; pears shouldn’t break down. Toss pear mixture into bowl of bread and add 1 cup chicken broth. Stir and let cool. Increase oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with butter. In a separate mixing bowl, whisk remaining 1½ cups chicken broth with eggs. Add to bread mixture and stir until fully combined. Pour into prepared baking dish and cover with aluminum foil. Bake for 20 minutes covered, then remove foil and bake for another 20 minutes. Finished dressing should reach an internal temperature of 160°F to 165°F on a meat thermometer. Serve.


Maple-Pear Cheesecake with Pear Compote ServeS | 8 to 10 |

Pear ComPote 2 to 3 Bartlett or Comice pears, peeled, cored and sliced 1 Tbsp unsalted butter ½ cups granulated sugar ¼ cups brown sugar ½ tsp ground cinnamon ¹⁄₈ tsp ground allspice ¹⁄₈ tsp ground ginger

The gingersnap-cookie crust on this cheesecake is the perfect foil for the maple extract and pear compote. Maple extract can be found in most grocery stores near the vanilla and almond extracts.

Crust 60 gingersnap cookies (about 2 inches in diameter) 1 Tbsp brown sugar 3 Tbsp melted unsalted butter pinch salt CheeseCake 32 oz room-temperature cream cheese 1¼ cups powdered sugar 1½ Tbsp all-purpose flour pinch salt ¼ cup melted vanilla ice cream ½ cup full-fat yogurt 1 Tbsp maple extract 5 eggs pear compote (recipe below) (to serve)

| preparation – pear compote | In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine all ingredients. Stir continuously until pears soften and sauce is fragrant and slightly sticky, 15 to 20 minutes. Set aside.

| preparation – crust | Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease the sides and bottom of a 9-inch springform pan and line the bottom with parchment paper. In the bowl of a food processor or blender, add gingersnap cookies and brown sugar and pulse until coarse crumbles form. Slowly add melted butter; add salt and pulse. Once mixture is wet, transfer to greased and lined springform pan. Using the back of a measuring cup, push crust into place so it lines bottom and edges of pan. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes.

| preparation – cheesecake | Preheat oven to 350°F. In a bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, add cream cheese and beat on medium speed until completely smooth. Add powdered sugar, flour, salt, melted ice cream, yogurt and maple extract and beat once more; batter should be completely smooth. reduce mixer to low speed and add first egg. Make sure to incorporate first egg completely before adding next egg; continue until all eggs are incorporated. Pour batter into prepared crust and bake for 60 to 70 minutes. Turn off oven and let cheesecake rest in warm oven for another 30 minutes. remove from oven and let cool completely. refrigerate overnight. Top with pear compote and serve.

Inspired Local Food Culture

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Specializing in classic grilled-cheese sandwiches served in old-school checkered-paper-lined baskets, the menu at Druff’s is deceptively simple. Since opening in Springfield, Missouri, in May 2016, Druff’s quickly became a local favorite; the restaurant is so popular that it rolled out breakfast service earlier this year. That’s largely thanks to co-owners Andrew Heilman and Vance Hall, who keep things running day-to-day. We caught up with Hall to chat about his dream day of dining in Springfield, what concepts he hopes to see open soon and more. –Lauren Smith

with Vance Hall co-owner,

druff’s

cherry pIcker package x fare

ceSar'S old mexIco

matt robertSon

cafÉ cuSco

"Matt robertson, who runs the food side at scotch & soda and bartends at Golden Girl [rum Club], helped us so much getting started [at Druff’s]. He has a wealth of knowledge and deserves kudos." the dugout

ImagIne you have one entIre day to dedIcate to dInIng out In the SprIngfIeld area: Where Would you grab breakfaSt, lunch and dInner, and What Would you be orderIng at each Spot? I would go to Cherry Picker Package x Fare for an Asiago-everything bagel with cream cheese and bacon jam, plus lots of coffee. Next, tacos at Cesar’s Old Mexico for lunch and then dinner on the patio at Café Cusco. There are so many entrées yet to be had at Café Cusco, but I would most definitely hit the ceviche very hard to get started. Who or What do you belIeve IS a hIdden gem In the SprIngfIeld food Scene? The Dugout is really nice for cracking some cold ones with the boys on the patio, plus the food is really good. Also, Tortilleria Perches is very close to my house – a divine placement. Who In the local food-and-drInk Scene InSpIreS you?

joSh WIdner

tortIllerIa percheS

Matt Robertson, who runs the food side at Scotch & Soda and bartends at Golden Girl [Rum Club], helped us so much getting started [at Druff’s]. He has a wealth of knowledge and deserves kudos. My friend, Josh Widner [of Scotch & Soda and Cherry Picker Package x Fare], won’t stop opening businesses! I’m very grateful for him; he has pushed downtown forward a lot and I wouldn’t have a business without that guy’s hustle. What’S currently your favorIte meal at a local reStaurant? A 13-inch pizza and endless Coca-Cola at Pizza House. Hopefully I’m then wheeled out as my eyes glaze over.

pIzza houSe

golden gIrl rum club

What’S your favorIte drInk, and Where In SprIngfIeld are you orderIng It? I used to drink a lot of Jungle Birds with mezcal instead of rum at Golden Girl [Rum Club]; those are so good.

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$ 1 OY S T E R H AP P Y H O U R T H U R S D AY S & F R I D AY S

5P – 7P

WH I L E S U P P L I E S L A ST.

ONE AMERISTAR BOULEVARD ST. CHARLES, MISSOURI 63301 636.949.7777 | AMERISTAR.COM Exclusions may apply. Cash, credit and mycash ® only. Cannot be combined with any other offers or discounts. Inspired Local Food Culture

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HAPPY POINTSGIVING! LET YOUR GROCERIES PAY YOU BACK.

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November 2018 Feast Magazine  

The November issue is our annual guide to preparing (and enjoying) the most important food holiday of the year: Thanksgiving. Find perfect p...

November 2018 Feast Magazine  

The November issue is our annual guide to preparing (and enjoying) the most important food holiday of the year: Thanksgiving. Find perfect p...