November 2020 Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture

/

midwest

november 2020

small g at h e r i n g s , b i g f l av o r Switch up your Thanksgiving spread with tender duck, savory pies and more.

A fury for flavor.

Reservations: harrahskc.com

MEET COLUMBIA...

SAFELY As the world around us changes every day, much of what makes Columbia so special remains exactly the same. Our miles of trails, dozens of parks, countless restaurants and shops, as well as public art displays and cultural institutions are waiting to welcome you — safely — whenever you’re ready.

Come see how CoMo is changing to keep you safe.

Visit MeetCoMoNow.com to uncover all there is to explore.

All visitors and residents of Columbia are required to wear masks in public places (WEAR — ordinance enforced). We also encourage maintaining a six-foot distance between people not from the same household (WATCH), as well as frequent and thorough hand washing and sanitizing (WASH).

202-2005F Feast Print 10.875 x 12.indd 1

10/9/20 3:46 PM

Escape to the great outdoors in Springfield, Missouri, where you will find endless activities in the beautiful Ozarks and one-of-a-kind dining options that will give you the break you need this fall. And for those times you head indoors for some fun at Johnny Morris’ Wonders of Wildlife National Museum & Aquarium or enjoy a craft brew from one of our local breweries in our Ozarks Tap & Pour Tour, wear your mask to keep yourself and others safe.

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Plan your Getaway at

SpringfieldMo.org

A masking ordinance is in place for the city of Springfield. For details, visit SpringfieldMo.org.

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PROMOTION

STONE HILL WINERY

Stone Hill Winery’s Chambourcin has notes of red and maraschino cherry, as well as some lovely fresh plum. The wine showcases interesting earthy aromas and saddle leather, and finishes with a dark chocolate-covered berry compote. It is very soft and drinkable with hints of black pepper and barbecue spice.

This wine is fermented on the skins and then aged for one year in French and American oak barrels.

Stone Hill Winery is committed to making the highest quality wines.

THIS MONTH WE'RE TASTING CHAMBOURCIN While more people stay home, Feast is bringing the wine to you! For the first of our series of Virtual Vine Wine Tastings, presented by Missouri Wines, we'll be tasting locally made Chambourcin. The hybrid grape is known for its spicy, earthy taste. Its versatility and resilience to extreme weather make it perfect for growing conditions in the Midwest. The typically dry red it produces is perfect for pairing with hearty meals over the holidays. To learn more about locally produced wine, visit feastmagazine.com/wine.

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NOBOLEIS VINEYARDS

The Noboleis Vineyards 2018 Chambourcin displays wonderful aromas of blackberry and plum, balanced with a hint of holiday spice. This lighter-bodied red wine has subtle tannins and a soft acid profile that pairs wonderfully with barbecued meats and other savory dishes. This easyto-drink red wine is perfect for both cool autumn nights around the fire pit with friends or to be enjoyed around the table for holiday meals with family.

stonehillwinery stonehillwinery.com 1110 Stone Hill Highway, Highw Hermann, Missouri

noboleisvineyards.com 100 Hemsath Road, Augusta, Missouri

MONTELLE WINERY

ADAM PUCHTA A WINERY WI

Montelle’s Chambourcin is a full-bodied, well-structured pour with hints of vanilla on the lingering finish. It has deep notes of blackberries, black cherry, cassis and licorice. It has been aged eight to nine months in American Oak barrels before making its way into a bottle. This Chambourcin pairs well with red meats, rich cheeses, stews and roasted veggies – perfect for holiday festivities.

montelle.com 201 Montelle Dr., Augusta, Missouri

Visually stunning and aromatically appealing, Situation Red b

by Adam Puchta Winery is inspired byy the musical notes of songs from yyesteryear.

Situation Red brings together cool ffermented, ripe Chambourcin gr grapes which exhibit xhibit slightly earthy undertones of soft flinty tannins. This wine is fruit-forw orward yet quietly acidic with the ripe flav flavors pomegr of pomegranate, cranberry cherry Enjoy with and black cherry. red sauce pasta, grilled fish chick or roasted chicken.

adampuchtawine.com 1947 Frene Creek Road, Hermann, Missouri

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Inspired Local Food Culture /

Missouri

midwest

P R O M OT I O N

WINES MVP PROGRAM

CONTENT PROVIDED BY MISSOURI WINES

Missouri wine country encompasses breathtaking views and award-winning wines. While multitudes of visitors patronize the state’s 125+ wineries, there are some Missouri wine fans who take their loyalty and exploration to the next level. The Missouri Winery Visitors Program (MVP) rewards Missouri wine-lovers for their exploration of Missouri’s wine country.

Members of MVP have access to exclusive experiences, rewards and perks. Besides the tangible benefits of MVP membership, participants form friendships, make unforgettable memories and discover all that Missouri wine country has to offer. Learn more about the MVP experience from its enthusiastic participants.

Conrad and Linda Bowers have been members of MVP since 2017. The couple made it their mission to visit every winery in Missouri and ended up writing a book that detailed their experiences. Along the way, Conrad was introduced to MVP and became a member. During their travels across Missouri wine country, they were able to visit new areas of the state and learn more about the art of winemaking in Missouri. Conrad notes that one of his favorite parts of being an MVP member is getting to visit with winery owners and build his knowledge of Missouri wine.

“I would encourage people to join [MVP] because of the communications – the monthly newsletter is so informative and the staff is responsive any time I have a question,” Conrad says. “It’s a tremendous resource for anyone who enjoys Missouri wines and enjoys visiting Missouri wineries.”

The MVP experience is one filled with exploration, friendship and making lifelong memories. Conrad and Linda agree that being members of MVP has expanded their Missouri wine horizons and opened doors to once-in-a-lifetime opportunities. Want to learn more about MVP or sign up?

Visit missouriwinemvp.com today.

november

2020

Volume 10 / Issue 10 Publisher

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

general manager

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com managing editor

Susan Eckert, seckert@laduenews.com 314.269.8838

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com

Special projects coordinator

assistant editor

Aubrey Byron, abyron@feastmagazine.com

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

FEAST TV producer: Catherine Neville

Jenny Vergara

production partner: Tybee Studios

St. Louis Contributing Editor

Mabel Suen

Contact Us

fact checker

Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

Karen Parkman Proofreader

Alecia Humphreys

Distribution

Contributing Writers

Julia Calleo, Tessa Cooper, Gabrielle DeMichele, Kala Elkinton, Amanda Elliott, Teresa Floyd, Hilary Hedges, Rogan Howitt, Alecia Humphreys, Liz Miller, JC Sandt, Nancy Stiles, Jenn Tosatto, Shannon Weber

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Rich Hudson for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at rhudson@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

ART Art Director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers

Julia Calleo, Tessa Cooper, Teresa Floyd, Liz Goodwin, Pilsen Photo Co-op, Madison Sanders, Matt Seidel, Jennifer Silverberg, Starboard & Port Creative, Kim Wade Contributing illustrator

Shannon Levin Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2020 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

on the cover Savory pies by Jennifer Silverberg table of contents Duck pastrami courtesy of DUCKCHAR

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/ 13 / sugar rush

44 48 57

Spiced pumpkin seed brittle

moulard to the masses

/ 14 / how-to

St. Louis-based DUCKCHAR strives to make duck more accessible to home cooks.

/ 16 / the mix

hunger in the heartland Local hunger-relief organizations work to feed those in need.

easy as pie These four savory pie recipes capture classic Thanksgiving flavors in new forms.

Mashed potato croquettes

Build-your-own amaro spritz

/ 19 / one on one Danielle Luisi of Sweet Pea’s Bakery

/ 20 / shop here Geo’s Cheese

/ 22 / midwest made Fruit butter

/ 24 / mystery shopper Quark

/ 26 / healthy appetite

Cabbage and Swiss chard gratin

/ 29 / one on one Josh Rein of Waves Cider Co.

/ 30 / the dish

Chèvre creamed corn

/ 33 / one on one

Fabian Brown of Big Momma’s

/ 34 / quick fix

Orange-scented butternut squash hummus

/ 35 / culinary library

Christy Augustin of Pint Size Bakery

/ 36 / crash course Pumpkins

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 0

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Letter

from the

Publisher

For our annual Thanksgiving issue, we have pulled together content that will help you plan a menu that is festive and fun, one that’s full of flavor and perfect for a more intimate gathering. From Moulard duck to savory potato croquettes to a cabbage and Swiss chard gratin to a primer on pumpkins, we have culinary ideas sure to inspire new traditions. We’ve also taken a hard look at the influence the pandemic has had on hunger in our region (p. 48).

While this season is certainly about celebration, it’s also about reflection, and there are many who are suffering from lack of access to food. Contributor Liz Miller has checked in with hunger-relief organizations across Missouri to report on the current state of food insecurity, particularly with regard to the pandemic’s impact on our region’s children.

2020 has taught me many things. Patience, for one. But beyond learning to let go of the reins a bit, I have been able to see more clearly than I have in a long 10

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to find my center again and focus on what’s truly important: family, friends and community.

This year, my Thanksgiving celebration will be small, but it will carry a deeper sense of meaning than in years past. I have a feeling I’m not alone. As we raise our glasses this holiday season, all of us here at Feast wish you peace.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville

publisher@feastmagazine.com

PHOTOGR APHY BY MATT SEIDEL

T

his has been a rollercoaster year.

We’ve all tried to hold on as the world has taken us for a wild ride, and now, I have been busy in the kitchen, developing recipes for our ongoing seasonal cooking video series. Look for the six-video installment In the Spirit, featuring recipes infused with wine, beer and spirits, to hit feastmagazine.com this month! as we settle into November, it’s suddenly time to celebrate Thanksgiving. And, because of everything that 2020 has dished up, this year’s Thanksgiving won’t look like any other. while. For the past few years, I’ve been on the road constantly, rarely home for Gatherings might be smaller and tables might see fewer plates and platters, more than a few days, always focused on what’s next rather than what’s now. but the thing that sets this holiday apart – the conscious recognition of our Like many of you, my 2020 plans were completely disrupted and I was forced blessings – will be in abundance. to adjust. For that, believe it or not, I am thankful. I have been able to begin

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PROMOTION

PROMOTION

TRANSFORMING FAMILIAR FLAVORS INTO NEW EXPERIENCES As we prepare for the holiday season, this year is looking a little different. Traditional family gatherings may not be the same as we continue to socially distance ourselves

and keep group sizes to a minimum. Adjusting to a new holiday experience may have its challenges, but I’ve found that food has a way of bringing us together, even if we aren’t physically with one another. Recreating holiday dishes using the flavors of the season can complement our traditions while offering an alternative to large family meals.

One way I’ve done this is by taking Thanksgiving flavors like pumpkin, potatoes, spinach and turkey and transforming them into a new dish with my pumpkin gnocchi and turkey bolognese. This isn’t a typical dish found at our holiday table, but it fits in this untraditional year. There usually isn’t time in the hustle of holiday preparation to slow down and make gnocchi from scratch. Rolling the dough into long ropes and pressing fresh cut dumplings over a fork to get the classic indentations provided an opportunity for me to reflect on all I have to be thankful for during an unusual year. It also allowed my family of four to enjoy a taste of the holidays without creating an overwhelming amount of food.

No matter what your holidays look like this year, I encourage you to take some time to reflect on the things you are grateful for. Even if you can’t visit with family and friends in person, find ways to brighten their holidays with a video chat, care package or home cooked meal. Check out this month’s Simply Schnucks magazine for more ideas to spread cheer and connect with those you love.

PUMPKIN GNOCCHI IN TURKEY BOLOGNESE SERVES 8 PUMPKIN GNOCCHI 1 medium russet potato 1 cup pumpkin puree 1 egg TURKEY BOLOGNESE 1 small onion 1 medium carrot 1 celery rib 2 cloves garlic 2 Tbsp olive oil

2 cups flour 1 tsp salt

1 lb ground turkey 1 cup dry red wine 6 oz can tomato paste 1 bay leaf ½ tsp thyme

1 bunch fresh sage Pinch red pepper flakes Salt and pepper to taste 2 cups fresh spinach

PREPARATION

Dice onions, celery, carrot & garlic until finely chopped. In a large ovenproof pot over

medium heat add olive oil and chopped vegetables. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, allowing to cook until evenly browned, around 15 minutes. Add ground turkey and cook until browned, around 15 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, allowing to cook for 3-4 minutes. Pour in red wine and scrape up any bits that stuck to the bottom of the pot.

Reduce wine by half and then add water until it is about 1 inch above the mixture.

Add in bay leaf, sage, thyme and red pepper flakes. Bring to a low simmer and allow to cook uncovered 3-4 hours, occasionally stirring and adding water as needed.

Remove bay leaf and sage before serving.

Meanwhile, bake the potato and shred it or put it through a ricer. In a medium bowl, mix potato with pumpkin puree and egg. Add flour and salt, mixing all ingredients into a dough until it forms a mostly smooth round ball. Add more flour as needed. Roll dough SPONSORED CONTENT BY ALLISON PRIMO SCHNUCKS REGISTERED DIETITIAN

into long ropes and cut into bite sized pieces. Using a fork, press each piece over prongs to create indentations.

Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Add gnocchi and allow to cook about 4 minutes or until they float. Remove from pot and stir gnocchi into turkey bolognese. Add in fresh spinach and cook 1-2 minutes until spinach is wilted. Top with a sprinkle of freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

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sugar rush / how-to / the mix / shop here / midwest made / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / the dish / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Spiced Pumpkin Seed Brittle yields 24 pieces

Crispy, crunchy brittle is a light dessert that you can truly enjoy after Thanksgiving dinner.

Full of warm spices and chewy pumpkin seeds, this buttery brittle comes together easily with ingredients found in your cupboard.

Make it a day in advance and wrap some in individual packages to send home with guests.

Story, recipe and photography

by Teresa Floyd, food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com

Use any of your favorite nuts or seeds to switch up the flavor of this brittle.

1½ 2 ½ ¹⁄₈ ½ ¼ 1 ½ ½ ¼ 1

cups pumpkin seeds, roasted and salted tsp vanilla extract tsp baking soda tsp ground cloves tsp ground cinnamon tsp ground ginger cup granulated sugar cup water cup light corn syrup tsp sea salt Tbsp unsalted butter flaky sea salt, for garnish

/ preparation / Line a large baking sheet with a nonstick baking mat or parchment paper. Lightly spray the back of a large offset spatula with nonstick cooking oil spray. In three separate bowls, place pumpkin seeds, vanilla extract and baking soda. In another bowl, combine cloves, cinnamon and ginger. Set bowls aside until ready to use.

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring sugar, water, corn syrup, sea salt and butter to a boil. Attach a candy thermometer to the side of the pan (be careful not to let it touch the bottom). Without stirring, cook syrup until it reaches 280ºF. If needed, wash down any sugar crystals that form on the side of the pan with a pastry brush that’s been dipped in cold water. Stir in pumpkin seeds. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until mixture reaches 300ºF and becomes golden amber in color.

Remove from heat and immediately stir in vanilla extract and spices; lastly, stir in baking soda. Pour mixture onto prepared baking sheet. Working quickly, spread hot brittle into a thin layer with the offset spatula and then sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Set baking sheet on a wire rack to cool completely.

Once cool, break brittle into 2-inch pieces. Store in single layers separated by sheets of parchment paper in an airtight container at room temperature. Brittle will keep for up to two weeks.

PA I R IT! pair with: rum Usually I don’t pair like flavors, but for the fall, I’ll make an exception. In my opinion, you can never have enough of those dark baking spices, so I suggest spiking a mulled cider with Duckett Rhum 103 from Nobletons Distilling House in Franklin County, Missouri, to enjoy with this spiced pumpkin seed brittle. Matured in both American and French oak barrels, the rum’s complex notes of earthy fruit and caramel toffee dance with the warmth of the cider. Add 1½ ounces rum to a mug of your favorite mulled cider and serve hot. –Jenn Tosatto nobletons.com

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sugar rush / how-to / the mix / shop here / midwest made / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / the dish / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Mashed Potato story, Recipe and photography by Julia Calleo, writer and recipe developer, mylavenderblues.com

Holiday parties will likely be smaller this year, which gives you the perfect excuse to turn your Thanksgiving spread up a notch. Have fun with the classics – these croquettes can take the place of mashed potatoes on your table or make the most of any leftovers. They’re much more flavorful than standard mashed potatoes, but I still suggest serving them with a drizzle of rich gravy.

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This recipe yields 12 croquette s.



Follow your favorite recipe for basic mashed potatoes. Once mashed, refrigerate for at least 4 hours.

In a large bowl, add 3 cups chilled mashed potatoes,  2 beaten eggs, ½ cup grated Parmesan, 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, 2 tablespoons bread crumbs, 2 teaspoons freshly chopped parsley, 2 teaspoons chopped chives, 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper; mix with hands until well-combined.

 In a separate shallow bowl, whisk 3 eggs.

Spoon out approximately ¼ cup mashed potato mixture and form into a ball. Roll ball in egg.



In a wide, shallow bowl, combine 3 cups bread crumbs, 1 tablespoon garlic powder, 1 teaspoon smoked paprika, 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

Roll egg-doused ball in bread crumb mixture to coat completely; place croquette on parchment paper.

Repeat steps 5 and 6 until you’ve used all the mashed potato mixture.



Fill a heavy-bottomed pan with approximately 1¾ inches vegetable oil and set over medium high heat.

Line a baking sheet with paper towels.



Once oil is hot, carefully add croquettes to pan.

(Depending on the size of your pan, you can probably cook 4 at a time.) Fry until golden brown and crispy, 4 minutes, flipping now and then to make sure all sides cook evenly.

crisped croquettes to prepared  Transfer baking sheet to drain. Serve warm.

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 0

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sugar rush / how-to / the mix / shop here / midwest made / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / the dish / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

The holidays are a marathon, not a sprint. Italian amari (the plural of amaro) are sweet, sometimes bitter, liqueurs, low in alcohol and perfect for sessional drinking. With a build-your-own amaro spritz bar, you can simplify your celebration and still excite your guests. Ask them to bring a bottle of amaro from home to diversify the selection, or you can bottle your own house blend ahead of time. For a well-rounded cocktail, your spread should include highly carbonated water, citrus slices, an assortment of bitters and olives as a savory element – for balance but also snacking.

Amaro Spritz

Serves 1 3

2

2

oz sparkling water (or 2 oz sparkling wine and 1 oz sparkling water) oz amaro (one variety or a blend of multiple) lemon, orange or grapefruit wedges dashes bitters of your choice pitted green olives

/ preparation / Fill a 12-ounce glass (Collins or highball, for example) with ice. Add sparkling water, followed by amaro and a squeeze of citrus; drop used citrus wedge in glass. Add bitters and gently mix in with a spoon. Garnish with skewered citrus wedges and olives. Enjoy!

3 Standout Amari to Try Fernet-Branca The king of digestifs, this fernet – which is a style of amaro – is celebrated throughout the world for its distinguishing flavor. The secret recipe features 27 herbs, roots and spices, from chamomile to myrrh and galangal to saffron.

Amaro Averna Since 1868, Amaro Averna has represented true Sicilian craft, transmitting the flavors and aromas of the land from which it comes. Bittersweet, it boasts flavors of orange and licorice balanced with notes of juniper berries, myrtle, rosemary and sage. It’s especially good with a squeeze of orange on ice.

Story and recipe

by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photography by Starboard & Port Creative

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Amaro di ANGOSTURA Derived from the bespoke process used to create the brand’s popular aromatic bitters, this amaro offers aromas of cinnamon, dark chocolate and root beer with a wellbalanced finish. You can enjoy it over ice, but it also adds a deep herbal quality to mixed drinks.

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ONE ON ONE

ONE on

/

MARYLAND HEIGHTS, MO

with Danielle Luisi / pastry chef and owner, Sweet Pea’s Bakery Why did you decide to launch Sweet Pea’s Bakery as a wholesale bakery instead of a storefront?

I started this on my own. I don’t have investors, and I don’t have partners. I started doing it while I was still working full-time – it was the smartest way to build up the business. The plan is to [add a] café and then always have wholesale.

Usually people start with retail because it brings in the most income, but it also takes the most capital. I kind of did it the old-school American-dream way, slowly paying for everything myself, so I own everything. I’m going to have to wait a couple of years to get there – and obviously the pandemic totally put a stick in the bicycle wheel.

How has the pandemic affected business? I’ve been using the time for research and development.

I’ve worked on new flavor profiles, [experimenting with] everything from mousses to vegan and glutenfree items. It’s a good time to try to make the best of it financially, [and] because of the way I built this place – and because it’s just me and one other person – I was able to hunker down and cut expenses.

Written by Nancy Stiles / photography by madison sanders

Danielle Luisi simply thought she was making a birthday cake for a friend; little did she know, it would lead to a career. After graduating from The Culinary Institute of America, New Yorkbased Luisi moved to St. Louis, where she met fellow chef Ashley Shelton, who was – and is currently back again – working for the award-winning chef Lou Rook III at Annie Gunn’s.

Rook tasted the birthday cake and subsequently offered Luisi a job. She immediately got to work, creating the pastry program at the esteemed restaurant, where she worked for seven years before launching Sweet Pea’s Bakery in Maryland Heights, Missouri. The wholesale bakery provides delectable treats to local restaurants that don’t have the capacity for an in-house pastry chef, including Annie Gunn’s, Carmine’s Steak House, Lombardo’s Trattoria and DD Mau; you can also find select sweets at Straub’s Markets. As the holiday season gets underway, Luisi says she has a few special desserts up her sleeve as well.

How do you develop your desserts?

Usually I base them off of the season. I try to go as local as I can and use farmers like Tony White, [founder and CEO of Tony’s Family Farms in Chesterfield, Missouri], or depending on what chef Lou wants.

So, what’s seasonal, what people want; everyone wants pumpkin at some point – that’s probably our bestseller during the holidays.

How can people order Sweet Pea’s desserts for the holidays? The chocolate-caramel gooey butter cake and vanilla gooey butter cake will be [available] at Straub’s. We’re also fine-tuning our website; people can order cookie platters, the eight-inch gooey butter cakes, the caramel-pecan bar tart – we have all the retail options on there if people want to order them.

3 holiday desserts

’

from sweet pea s bakery

pumpkin-caramel gooey butter cake

Luisi describes this fall favorite as pumpkin pie meets St. Louis gooey butter cake. “It’s got that custard texture, but it’s super smooth,” she says.

“We take a salted caramel and swirl that through, [which] cuts through some of the sweetness.”

sticky toffee pudding

This popular autumnal dessert will get you out of a pumpkin pie rut. “It’s a cake made out of dates, with a butterscotch sauce on top of it,” explains Luisi. This season, snag a taste at Annie Gunn’s.

extra-virgin olive oil-prosecco cake

If sugary desserts aren’t your thing, try this traditional Italian dessert with a bubbly twist – also available at Annie Gunn’s. In general, Luisi tries to make all her desserts well-balanced, and

sweetpeasbakerycafe.com

she says this cake is “just awesome.” / nov e mbe r 2 02 0

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sugar rush / how-to / the mix / shop here / midwest made / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / the dish / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

◀ KANSAS CITY

Geo’s Cheese Written by Kala elkinton / photography by pilsen photo co-op

Opening just after the Kansas City shelter-in-place order went into effect this past April, Geo’s Cheese still managed to make itself at home in the Waldo neighborhood. Owner Spencer Woodard says that neighbors have been extremely supportive, and the shop has already proven to be an edible oasis for cheese enthusiasts across the city. Offering unique artisan cheeses and high-quality traditional cheeses in addition to all the offbeat extras you need to create your dream charcuterie board – think pickled asparagus, lamb sausage, Feta-stuffed olives, smoked rainbow trout spread, strawberry IPA beer jelly and Ozark stout ale mustard – Geo’s Cheese is also preparing cheese and sausage gift baskets and premade charcuterie boards for the holidays.

221 E. Gregory Blvd., Kansas City, Missouri, geoscheese.com

Must−Try products from

Geo’s Cheese

Mature and crumbly,

Bake Brazilian cheese

the 15-year-aged

bread in the oven until it

Wisconsin Cheddar is

puffs up like a dinner roll.

best enjoyed on its own

Crunchy on the outside

in order to taste all of

and gooey on the inside,

its complexity.

it’s a sensational addition to any meal.

A melt-in-your-mouth favorite from Alma Creamery in Alma, Kansas, the Mediterranean cheese curds boast a memorable combination of savory herbs and spices.

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Are you stocked up for winter?

Enjoy the best with Wood Hat Spirits, your local seed to glass distillery.

Ask for Wood Hat Spirits at your favorite retail store in MO, KS, OK Tours by reservation only: 573-835-1000 or 573-216-3572 Testing Room Hours: Mon, Thur, Fri, Sat 10-5; Sun 1-5

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Retailers, call

Lohr Wine and Spirits @ 314-236-3712 to order. / nov e mbe r 2 02 0

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Fruit Butter persimmon hill farm persimmon butter

You butter believe Missouri and Illinois farmers are making the most of the yields from their fields, turning everything from apples and peaches to persimmons and pumpkins into sweet spreads. Choose your favorite flavor of fruit butter from this list and lather a warm biscuit with it, stir it into yogurt, toss it into a vinaigrette or pour it over ice cream. It might even have a place on your Thanksgiving table this year.

Written by Alecia Humphreys / photography by matt seidel

Eckert’s pumpkin butter

Bekemeier’s cinnamon candy apple butter

college of the ozarks apple butter

For more than 100 years, Eckert’s has been nurturing its farms in Illinois, growing an abundance of apples, peaches, strawberries, blackberries and more. While it’s fun to gather the whole family for a pickyour-own experience and experiment with the fruits at home, you can also pop by Eckert’s Country Store in Belleville to stock up on delicious products made with the farms’ yield.

The apple and peach butters are tempting, but the pumpkin butter is simply irresistible. eckerts.com

Although the pure raw honey has already been crowned queen of this fourth-generation business, Bekemeier’s in Neosho, Missouri, is also proud of its fruit butters.

While it produces apple butter, it’s the more unconventional flavors that really create buzz among customers.

Try the pumpkin, caramel apple and cinnamon candy apple butters for a seasonal treat, or order blackberry, strawberry and peach butters for a taste of summer all year long. ozarkafarms.com/bekemeiers

The art of canning has been part of the work education program at the College of the Ozarks in Point Lookout, Missouri, for generations.

The recipe for its signature apple butter starts with 10 gallons of unsweetened applesauce, which are processed in a steam vat. As the applesauce heats up, 25 pounds of sugar along with cinnamon, cloves, salt and other spices are slowly added. Once all the ingredients are incorporated, the mixture cooks for 20 minutes, after which it’s poured into 8- and 16-ounce jars – get your hands on one to taste the students’ sweet success. store.cofo.edu

A contemporary neighborhood market and rotisserie, Hoss’s in Columbia, Missouri, boasts an array of gourmet products, including salsas, seasonings and, of course, fruit butters. Sold under the Hoss’s brand, the apple, peach and cherry butters are available year-round, and the pumpkin butter is available from Oct. 1 to the end of the year.

If you don’t live in the area, call the store to place an order for delivery. Once you’ve snagged a set of fruit butters, pair them with oldfashioned popovers or use them as a natural filling for homemade Toaster Strudels. hosssmarket.com

hoss's cherry butter

Besides making jams, jellies and preserves, Earnie and Martha Bohner, owners of Persimmon Hill Farm in Lampe, Missouri, use their bounty to produce apple and persimmon butters as well as a seasonal peach butter. A “taste of fall in the Ozarks,” the persimmon butter is made with ripe wild persimmons, when the golden orange fruit is at the peak of flavor. After the Bohners gather the fruit by hand and press the pulp from it, they slow-cook each batch with cane sugar and lemon juice until the texture becomes thick and velvety. Enjoy your favorite flavor on hot toast to start your day off right. persimmonhill.com

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sugar rush / how-to / the mix / shop here / midwest made / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / the dish / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Is it cheese?

Is it yogurt?

As it turns out, it’s a little bit of both.

Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

What Is It? Quark is an acid-set fresh cheese made by souring milk until it curdles, straining the curds from the whey and whipping those curds until they morph into a silky-smooth, voluptuous concoction that looks a lot like Greek yogurt. Not sweet but not quite savory, quark has just enough tang to keep things interesting, and you can still use it in sweet applications as well.

What Do I Do With It? On its own, quark can be eaten like yogurt; a hefty amount of protein gives it all the body of a higher-fat dairy without the excess calories and fat. Try it topped with honey, fruit and/or granola, or layer it into a parfait. In cooking and baking projects, use it one-for-one in recipes that call for yogurt – think quick breads, dips, cakes, curries and soups. It can even be used to add depth and tang to ice cream, as in this sweet-savory recipe that makes the most of quark’s richness.

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Quark-Roquefort Ice Cream with Balsamic-Fig Jam

serves 4 to 6 Balsamic-Fig Jam (Yields 1 cup) 6 oz dried Calmyrna or Turkish figs, stems removed and diced 1 cup water ²⁄₃ cup granulated sugar Look for the creamy and mildly 1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar tangy German-style quark from juice of 1 medium lemon, strained Hemme Brothers Creamery, 1 pinch kosher salt located in mid-Missouri.

Quark-Roquefort Ice Cream with Balsamic-Fig Jam 2 Tbsp cornstarch 1 cup, plus 2 Tbsp, whole milk, divided 6 Tbsp Roquefort 1 pinch kosher salt 1½ cups quark ¾ cup heavy cream ²⁄₃ cup granulated sugar 2 Tbsp good-quality honey ½ cup balsamic-fig jam (recipe follows) / preparation – balsamic-fig jam / Add all ingredients to a medium saucepan and set over medium heat; stir to combine. Bring mixture to a bubble, stirring occasionally.

Reduce heat to simmer and continue to stir occasionally as mixture thickens, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat and transfer mixture to a blender; blend until smooth.

Transfer mixture back to saucepan and set over medium low heat; cook until jam has reached desired consistency, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool before transferring to a jar. Refrigerate until ready to use. / preparation – quark-roquefort ice cream with balsamic-fig jam / In a small bowl, whisk together cornstarch and 2 tablespoons milk; set aside. In a medium heatproof bowl, mash Roquefort with salt; set aside. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, add quark, remaining milk, heavy cream, sugar and honey and set over medium heat; bring to a bubble, whisking frequently. Remove from heat and whisk in cornstarch slurry. Set back over medium heat and continue to whisk until mixture thickens, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and add approximately 1 cup of the hot liquid to Roquefort; whisk until mixture is smooth and lumps have dissolved. Pour in remaining hot liquid; whisk until everything is incorporated.

Carefully set bowl of ice cream base in an ice bath; whisk occasionally as mixture cools on countertop, 30 minutes. Remove bowl from ice bath, cover and transfer to refrigerator to chill thoroughly, at least 4 hours or overnight.

Remove jam and ice cream base from refrigerator. Stir jam to loosen, adding a bit of water as needed. Whisk ice cream base and pour into ice cream maker; spin according to manufacturer’s instructions. Once ready, transfer to ice cream container, dotting ice cream with jam as you work; finally, swirl with a knife to fully incorporate. Place ice cream in freezer or deep freeze to set, at least 4 to 6 hours. / to serve / Scoop or serve terrine-style, sliced with fruit and nuts alongside more balsamic-fig jam.

Rolling the cheese and dessert courses into one, this luxurious ice cream is a memorable final course for an extra special holiday meal.

pair with: Germanic-style white wine

PA I R IT!

As quark is widely used in German-speaking areas, I opted for a Germanicstyle white wine for this pairing. Adam’s Choice from Adam Puchta Winery in Hermann, Missouri, is an aromatic and fruity semi-sweet wine, similar to a German Riesling. Luscious flavors of apple, melon and peach balance the tanginess of the two cheeses in this recipe, and the wine’s medium body and refreshing finish complement the ice cream’s silky texture. –Hilary Hedges adampuchtawine.com

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Cabbage SwissChard Gratin

Set the tone of your Thanksgiving table with this gratin.

I chose to combine cabbage and Swiss chard because they both pair beautifully with the simple yet decadent sauce made with cream and a blend of fontina and Parmesan. It’s a one-pan execution, which I especially appreciate on this holiday, and you can easily start the process the day before – just add an additional 10 to 15 minutes if you’re baking the next day.

Story and recipe by Amanda Elliott, chef-owner, Beet Box in Columbia, Missouri photography by kim wade

serves 4 to 6 3 Tbsp olive oil ½ white onion, julienned 2 cloves garlic, sliced 1 small head cabbage, julienned 3 Tbsp butter salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cup heavy cream 1½ cups water 1 cup shaved Parmesan and fontina blend, divided 1 bunch Swiss chard, stems removed ½ cup panko bread crumbs

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/ preparation / Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat oil in a 12-inch cast-iron pan over medium-high heat.

Add onion, garlic, cabbage and butter; season generously with salt and pepper. Reduce heat to medium and cook until cabbage has softened, 10 to 15 minutes. Add cream and water; cook, 10 minutes. Add ½ cup cheese blend; stir to combine.

Add Swiss chard and adjust seasoning. Top with remaining cheese blend and bread crumbs. Transfer to oven and cook, 30 minutes. Remove from oven and set on wire rack to cool slightly, 5 to 10 minutes.

Serve warm right out of the pan, if desired.

pair with: American IPA

PA I R IT!

The pleasantly bitter 5 Day IPA from O’Fallon Brewery in Maryland Heights, Missouri, cuddles up to the rich cream and melty cheese in this leafy gratin. The ale’s aromatic nose of floral hops – swirled with onion and garlic – revives your palate before each bite, and the toasted bread crumb topping yields to its light-bodied, caramel-forward sweetness. –JC Sandt ofallonbrewery.com

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Call 314-896-0632 or Visit www.adellesbakery.com The Holiday Season is Here!

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The Spirit of Fall: CRISP APPLE TASTE WITH CLASSIC TENNESSEE FLAVOR Made with a combination of three different apple varieties – McIntosh, Red Delicious and Granny Smith – Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Apple® has the distinctive taste of fall. It couples the unique character of Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey with crisp apple, giving it a bold, refreshing and exceptionally smooth taste.

To taste the bright, bold flavor, mix up this recipe, sip and enjoy.

JACK APPLE FIZZ SERVES | 1 | • 2 oz Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Apple® • 1/3 oz lemon juice • soda, to top

Thanksgiving SWEET TEA BRINED TURKEY

12-14 lb BRINED & UNCOOKED ................ $35 SMOKED & READY TO EAT ................ $65

FRESH INGREDIENTS. AUTHENTIC RECIPES. Hours:

monday-friday: 10:30am - 8:00pm saturday: 11:30am - 7:00pm

11982 dorsett rd. | 314.942.2300 | ddmaustl.com 28

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 0

• lemon, to garnish | PREPARATION |

Pour Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Apple ® and lemon juice over ice in a highball glass. Top with soda. Garnish with lemon slice.

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

with Josh Rein and

COLUMBIA, MO

/ head brewer, Logboat Brewing Co.

head cidermaker, Waves Cider Co. What inspired this move to cidermaking?

Part of Logboat’s original plan was to create beverages outside of just beer; we thought tea, soft drinks, just an all-around beverage company of sorts. But having a brewing background, beer was the thing that I knew the most when we got the brewery up and running, so we went with that, full steam ahead. As Logboat was coming through, cider came on our radar when our buddy, [one of the owners of Logboat and now an owner of Waves Cider Co. as well], was told by his doctor that he was allergic to barley and wheat – so beer. He kind of brought me into the realm of cider.

Written by Kasey Carlson / photography by liz goodwin

The team behind Logboat Brewing Co. in Columbia, Missouri, launched Waves Cider Co. at the end of July, serving up their inaugural ciders alongside a selection of celebrated pours from across the country at the new taproom. While the company currently makes two types of cider – dry and semi-dry – it’s just getting started.

Future plans include a four-acre orchard with apple varieties meant for making cider, and the team hopes to eventually source all other apples and apple juice from Missouri-based growers. Here, Josh Rein, head brewer of Logboat Brewing Co. and head cidermaker of Waves Cider Co., talks about his transition from malt to apples.

What flavors can we expect from Waves Cider Co.? I think the profile of the cider we’re doing is very much on the line of a white wine, like a Chardonnay or a Sauvignon Blanc: bright, fruity characters and a nice tartness to it. We use a little bit of oak in our dry cider – I think that will resonate with people who are looking for a wine product.

Cider is a wine, technically.

What was it like to transition from making beer to making cider? To be perfectly honest, it was a huge adjustment at first … after 10 years of making beer, and I never really messed around with making wine.

I started doing some reading; I did some test batches, [and I] ended up sitting in a weeklong course that’s offered by the Cider Institute of North America – just a crash course in what are some of the basic things you need to know [and] the no-nos of trying to ferment juice instead of a bunch of malt beer. There’s a big difference [to] how things work.

604 Nebraska Ave., Columbia, Missouri, wavescider.com

dry cider To make its dry cider, Waves Cider Co. ferments juice from Peterson Farms in Shelby, Michigan, with Champagne yeast, which yields notes of green apple, melon rind, makrut lime leaf, oat and vanilla.

semi-dry cider Fermented with white wine yeast, the semi-dry cider is sweeter than the dry but still extremely refreshing. Expect hints of ripe apple, mandarin orange, grapefruit and tropical fruit.

special releases At the Waves taproom, check with the bartender to see if there are any special releases on tap. These promise different flavors apart from the company’s inaugural ciders. This month, try the Hickory Ridge Dry.

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sugar rush / how-to / the mix / shop here / midwest made / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / the dish / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

creamed corn Hosting a big Thanksgiving buffet has been a longstanding tradition at The Order inside Hotel Vandivort in Springfield, Missouri. In light of the COVID-19 pandemic, there won’t be a holiday meal this year, but you can still savor one of the restaurant’s seasonal staples at your own intimate gathering. Originally, The Order’s chèvre creamed corn featured braised pork cheeks – a recipe that chef de cuisine John Cruz inherited and subsequently altered. Cruz removed the protein to allow other ingredients to shine. “I wanted to make it more about the corn,” he says. “I felt like when we braised the pork cheeks, we would lose the flavor of [the corn] to the goat cheese. But it’s still one of those dishes that people love and admire because it’s so simple but has so much flavor.” –Tessa Cooper

Recipe courtesy of John Cruz, chef de cuisine, The Order Photography by tessa cooper

Cruz uses heavy whipping cream from Hiland Dairy.

Goat cheese from Terrell Creek Farm is a must for this recipe.

Anna Davis

private chef 30

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The Order

serves 4 2 2 4 ¼ ¾ 6 2 1 2

Tbsp olive oil cups corn, fresh or frozen tsp chopped garlic cup dry white wine cup heavy whipping cream Tbsp goat cheese tsp salt tsp freshly ground black pepper tsp finely chopped fresh herbs (thyme, rosemary, parsley, chives), for garnish

/ preparation / Heat a 14-inch pan over medium heat. Add oil and heat, 1 minute. Add corn and cook, approximately 1 minute. Add garlic and toast until golden brown. Deglaze pan with white wine and then cook until liquid has reduced by half. Add heavy whipping cream and bring to a simmer. Add goat cheese, salt and pepper and cook until sauce becomes thick enough to coat the back of a stirring spoon without running off. (“Nappe” is the French culinary term for this consistency of sauce.)

Taste creamed corn and adjust seasoning, if necessary.

Garnish with fresh herbs and serve warm.

“The Order is my go-to restaurant for so many occasions. Whether catching up with friends over appetizers and a drink, brunch with the family or dinner after choir rehearsal, The Order has tasteful options that satisfy me every time.

The friendly and timely service and menus that incorporate local ingredients make this restaurant stand out.”

PROMOTION PROMOTI ON

In moderation, nuts bring important benefits BRAZIL NUTS Talk about bang for your buck: Just two Brazil nuts are all that’s needed to attain the recommended daily amount of vitamin E and selenium, a mineral found to improve cell and thyroid health, and that may protect against heart disease and some cancers.

PECANS

SPONSORED CONTENT BY KATHERINE LEWIS

When it comes to their reputation for health, nuts seem like a mixed bag: On one hand, they’re high in fat and calories. On the other, they’ve got antioxidants aplenty and can reduce blood pressure. Dr. Yikyung Park, a Washington University researcher at Siteman Cancer Center and an associate professor of surgery at Washington University School of Medicine, says that nuts’ benefits are welldocumented: “Newer research shows that consuming nuts – in moderation – is associated with a lot of positive health outcomes,” Dr. Park says. “In fact, regularly consuming nuts may reduce your risk for many common diseases, like heart disease, diabetes and certain cancers.”

Brazil nuts can also reduce inflammation and cholesterol levels.

They are also among the building blocks for healthy eating patterns, such as the Mediterranean diet and the Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension (DASH) diet. “While the evidence for whether nuts can help you lose weight is mixed, studies have shown that nuts can help you maintain a healthy weight,” Dr. Park says. “They’re very calorie-dense, but they’re also low in carbs, and the fiber in nuts may keep your body from absorbing all of those calories and keep you feeling fuller for longer.”

Nuts’ natural oils are yet another goldmine. “Everybody talks about the benefits from fatty acids found in fish, but nuts have them too,” Dr. Park says. “People do have to be a bit careful that they don’t eat too many. Have nuts instead of a chocolate bar as a healthy snack. Eat them as a replacement for unhealthy items like chips, otherwise you’re just adding calories, which won’t help you.”

Colder weather ushers in with it more cases of cold and flu, so the immune system needs all the help it can get. Pecans are great sources of zinc, a mineral that bolsters immunity. On their own,

Keep in mind that one serving of nuts is a little less than a handful, so make your snack count: “The nutritional content will be slightly different for various nuts, so it’s a good idea to consume a mix of nuts rather than just one kind,” Dr. Park says. So bring on the party mix!

In moderation, of course.

these nuts are low in sugar - before they’re stuffed into desserts, anyway - and they can even help regulate

Dr. Yikyung Park

blood-sugar levels.

Washington University researcher at Siteman Cancer Center PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

in good taste PRESENTED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

PINE NUTS

Sweet & Spicy Mixed Nuts

It’s fall, and pinecones

YIELDS | 8 servings

are everywhere. When

WALNUTS While all nuts bring a heap of antioxidants, walnuts

exposed to enough heat

•1 cup pecan halves

•1 tsp ground cinnamon

or dryness, each pinecone

•1 cup walnut halves

•¼ cup dark brown sugar

twice as much as other

•1 cup almonds

•3 Tbsp unsalted butter

kinds of nuts. To get the

•1 tsp ground cumin

•½ tsp salt

most from walnuts, eat

•1 tsp cayenne pepper

•3 Tbsp water

“scale' will crack open and release a single pine nut - a process that can take a lot of time, which accounts for their steep price tag. Still, their benefits are significant.

Pine nuts are a great way to increase iron intake, and they’re a good source of zinc. Toast them in olive

crunch and flavor.

them unroasted - the heating process can

| Preparation | Combine all spices in a small bowl, except for the brown sugar. Heat a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Add nuts and cook for 4 to 5 minutes. Stir frequently. Nuts will start to brown. Add the spice mix and stir to combine. Add butter and stir as it melts into the mixture. Add sugar. Mix completely, then add water. Stir until the mixture thickens and coats the nuts. This should take 2 to 3 minutes. Add salt. Move nuts to parchment paper and make sure they are separated from one another. Allow them to cool before serving or storing. Can be stored up to 3 weeks.

diminish the antioxidants’ effectiveness. Thanks to the high levels of omega-3 fatty acids that walnuts contain, they’re PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

thought to lead to better cardiovascular health, and people who consume

oil for a few minutes over low heat to enhance their

bring the most - up to

Nutrition Information: (¼ cup) 219 calories, 20g fat, 98mg sodium, 9g carbohydrate, 2g fiber, 4g protein.

nuts tend to have lower cholesterol than those who don’t.

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D& WNE

ILY O FAM

INCE

ED S

RAT

OPE

Holidays at the Market

1971

(314) 776-1062 | 5200 Daggett | St. Louis, MO 63110

Shop online at: www.digregoriofoods.com | Monday-Saturday 8am-5:30pm

Full line

Reserve Call Now To Favorites! ay lid Your Ho -1062 314-776

oF italian Foods H omemade s ausages i mported C Heeses g iFt B askets C HoiCe m eats i mported W ines g iFt C ards i talian n ovelties t rays & C atering

One Tradition to Keep in 2020

Masks Required (Santa Hats Optional)

Historic Soulard Farmers Market 730 Carroll Street St. Louis, MO 63104 314-622-4180 W-F 8-5, Sat 7-5:30

Breakfast | Lunch | Dinner In the restaurant, on our patio, or at your place!

705 Olive Street | Saint Louis, MO 63101 | hotelsaintlouis.com | 314.241.4300

Special Holiday Dates and Hours 11/27 - 11/28 OPEN EVERYDAY Between 12/16 and 12/24 Hours: 12/20 - 12/22 are 9am - 3pm 12/26, 12/30 - 12/31

Soulard Market has All of Your Holiday Needs Fresh Turkeys, Nuts, Candies, Spices, Baked Goods, Flowers, Produce, Unique Prepared Foods

Forget about cooking and order Mission Taco Joint’s build-yourown taco kit that feeds a family of four.

SAINT LOUIS: Soulard I Delmar Loop I Central West End I Streets of St. Charles I Kirkwood KANSAS CITY: East Crossroads I South Plaza 32

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ONE ON ONE /

KANSAS CITY

with Fabian Brown / owner, Big Momma’s

ONE on

Now, as the sole owner of Big Momma’s, how have you been able to sustain the business during the pandemic?

I knew the basics of the family baking business, and my background is in banking, IT and real estate, so I studied the financials to figure out what this place needed to make it profitable upon reopening. I reduced the number of dine-in tables, started taking orders online for carryout and expanded our hours. I reached out and found one of our employees [from] when we were at the Crown Center location, Juan Evans, and he agreed to come back and join my team. Now we all share in the baking of all of Big Momma’s original recipes, with each of us pitching in to help ring up customers, too.

Written by Jenny Vergara photography by pilsen photo co-op

ha

nks

giving

Who did you reach out to for advice during this difficult time? My kids would tell you that I don’t even know where the silverware drawer is in my own house – that shows you what I used to know about the kitchen and cooking. So, I reached out to the guys that own KC Daiquiri Shop on Grand Boulevard. I knew they had been doing well with to-go sales during the pandemic, and I wanted to talk to them to see if they thought reopening my place made sense. We talked about how people were craving comfort food – and I know that Big Momma’s gives people a taste of home. I knew that our wholesale and catering [businesses] would be slow and, with people working from home, the corporate lunches would be gone, but I also knew that come fall we would be heading into our busiest season of the year – the holidays – and I wanted to be there for our regulars who count on us for the pies and dinner rolls for their family gatherings.

What are Big Momma’s bestsellers? Big Momma’s cinnamon rolls are still what we sell the most of, and we offer them in three sizes. The Big Momma is a cinnamon roll the size of a dinner plate – it is meant to be shared – while the Little Momma is the perfect size for one person to enjoy by themselves, and the Mini Mommas are two bites each. All of them are baked fresh daily and frosted in the store when you order them. The sweet potato bars with that pecan cookie crust are another favorite, along with the chicken and turkey salad sandwiches that are served on our homemade buns.

4707 Bannister Road, Suite B, Kansas City, Missouri, bigmommaskc.com

tr

ts

from Big Momma’s

ea

t

From a former donut shop in Raytown, Missouri, to Crown Center near downtown Kansas City to its third and current location on Bannister Road in the Oakwood neighborhood, fans have followed Big Momma’s since it first opened in 2004. Famous for its buttery dinner rolls, Big Momma’s is the realized dream of sisters Joyce Brown, Jackie Buycks and Jill Kemp, who originally set out to turn Kemp’s mother-in-law’s cinnamon roll recipe into a full-time pursuit. Today, Fabian Brown, Joyce’s ex-husband, is the sole owner of the bakery and café, which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner alongside delicious desserts such as sweet potato pie, lemon squares and peanut butter cookies. After being forced to temporarily close due to the COVID-19 pandemic, Big Momma’s has reopened, and Fabian says he is ready to fight to keep his own dream for the business alive.

For years, customers lined up between velvet ropes in the middle of Crown Center to make sure they had Big Momma’s famous yeast dinner rolls on their Thanksgiving table – and they’re still as soft and buttery as you all remember.

The secret to Big Momma’s sweet potato pie is the filling. Made with real sweet potatoes and whipped light as air, it’s then baked into a flaky pie crust.

Part peach cake and part peach pie, the peach cobbler is gooey, with subtle tartness from the fresh fruit. Enjoy a slice alongside a scoop of vanilla ice cream. / nov e mbe r 2 02 0

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sugar rush / how-to / the mix / shop here / midwest made / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / the dish / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

In this class, you’ll learn a little about the different varieties of squash as well as how to properly cut butternut squash and zest an orange.

Butternut Squash Hummus Looking for something different – something healthy – to nosh on before the main event this Thanksgiving? This butternut squash hummus has everything your family craves: spectacular flavor and toothsome texture.

Written by Gabrielle DeMichele / Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Join Schnucks Cooking School director Gabrielle DeMichele on Zoom at 4pm on Thu., Nov. 12 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu. For more information on everything you’ll need for the virtual class – from cookware to ingredients – contact the cooking school.

nourish.schnucks.com/ web-ext/cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704

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yields 4 cups 4 1 5 5 1 1 1 ½ ¼ ¼ ¹⁄₈ 3

½

cups cubed butternut squash cup chunked carrots cloves garlic Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, divided can Great Northern beans, drained tsp ground cumin tsp smoked paprika tsp ground cardamom tsp ground allspice tsp cayenne pepper tsp ground cloves Tbsp fresh orange juice salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste zest of 1 orange cup spicy pistachios, roughly chopped

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, add squash, carrots and garlic; drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil and toss to coat.

Add vegetables to a rimmed baking sheet; loosely top with foil. Roast until fork tender but not browned, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, in a blender or food processor, add beans, cumin, paprika, cardamom, allspice, cayenne pepper, cloves and orange juice. Add cooled roasted vegetables and 2 tablespoons oil; blend until puréed. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Transfer hummus to a serving bowl; with the back of a spoon, make concentric circles in the dip.

Drizzle with remaining oil and top with orange zest and pistachios. Serve with grilled naan, crudités or toasted baguette slices.

MAKE THE MEAL • Orange-Scented Butternut Squash Hummus • Turkey Roulade • Cranberry Sauce • Nantucket Pie with Chantilly Cream

CULINARY LIBRARY /

st. louis

with Christy Augustin / pastry chef and co-owner, Pint Size Bakery

t

In St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park neighborhood, Christy Augustin crafts small-batch baked goods with big flavor. Pastry chef and co-owner of Pint Size Bakery, Augustin delights customers with everything from blondies to tea cakes to the best-selling oatmeal crème pie sandwich cookies – all made from scratch daily. Open since 2012, the homestyle bakeshop moved to a larger space down the street from its original location in 2016. With more than double the square footage, Augustin began taking more special orders. Don’t miss the opportunity to order Pint Size Bakery’s coveted Thanksgiving treats such as Missouri pecan pie, local pumpkin pie with candied pepitas, chocolate crème pie with a cookie crumb crust and walnut-chocolate-bourbon pie, along with a pint of housemade vanilla bean whipped cream. In the meantime, here are three cookbooks that Augustin says are among her favorites. –Mabel Suen

Cookie Love

by Kate Leahy and Mindy Segal (2015) "I’ve been enamored with chef Mindy Segal’s work for years. A strong female chef with a dessert-focused restaurant in Chicago who loves cookies? That speaks to me and my style of baking. With newfound success in other edible treats, her tenacity in our maledominated industry is worthy of accolade.”

The Last Course

In The Sweet Kitchen

by Claudia Fleming (2001)

by Regan Daley (2001)

“My most cherished cookbook is a first edition of pastry chef Claudia Fleming’s cult classic [The Last Course]. This book was truly written with restaurant pastry chefs in mind. Fleming’s desserts from Gramercy Tavern [in New York City] showcase the seasons, her playful attitude toward high-end pastry and an elegant focus on flavor using traditional technique.”

“This book is described as ‘the definitive baker’s companion,’ and that couldn’t be truer.

Daley dedicates pages and pages to flavor pairings, seasonal fruit charts, measurement conversions and techniques, plus helpful tidbits that showcase [her] depth of baking understanding. Then she gets down to the recipes – both simple and complex.” photography by madison sanders

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 0

35

sugar rush / how-to / the mix / shop here / midwest made / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / the dish / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Pick of the Patch

Baby Pam A pumpkin-patch favorite because kids can actually carry it, the Baby Pam has a smooth, perfectly round surface and a thick, comically oversized stem. Its smaller size makes it easy to handle, and the sweet flesh shines in pies and cakes.

Lumina As white as the moon – and nearly as round – the Lumina is wonderful for carving, but let’s try eating it this year. Medium-sized with delicate ribbing, the ghostly exterior hides bright orange flesh, sweet and smooth when roasted or baked.

story and recipe by Shannon Weber, writer and recipe developer, aperiodictableblog.com photography by Jennifer Silverberg illustrations by shannon levin

W

hether meandering through a far-off field or shopping at your local market, this fall you’ll likely come across an army of pumpkins – a sea of quirky shapes, sizes and colors that beg to be stacked in jaunty piles on your porch. You, dear reader, can do better than that, though. Once you know which varieties to buy, how to safely cut them and all the delightful things you can do with their innards, pumpkins will forever do double duty as a delicious ingredient in your kitchen.

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 0

Red Warty Like the name suggests, the Red Warty is vibrant red and bumpy – it’s pretty in its own way. Round as a basketball, it’s just as fun to carve faces into it as it is to bake; the pale orange, fine-grained flesh flows easily from sweet to savory territories.

Next time you’re picking pumpkins, keep a lookout for these fantastic cooking pumpkins, whose beauty runs far deeper than the surface.

Scrumptious Seeds to try your hand at roasting pumpkin seeds, start by choosing the right pumpkin.

Cinderella

Jarrahdale

Mention Cinderella pumpkins and you know

Hailing from New Zealand, the Jarrahdale

exactly what you’re in for: Short and impossibly

is perhaps the spookiest pumpkin, with a

wide with a vivid red-orange hue that’s

bluish-gray exterior that calls to mind the

occasionally mottled with green, they certainly

wooly rind of an aged cheese. Against the

stand out from the crowd. The orange flesh –

rind, the interior is a jarring sunset orange,

pale by comparison – is at home in savory and

thick, dry and complex in flavor. Use this one

sweet dishes.

for roasting rather than sweet applications.

Styrian pumpkins produce those gorgeous, dark-green seeds that you find in stores; they’re large and have no hull, which means they don’t have that white, chewy exterior like other pumpkin seeds that you’ve tried – and failed – to roast in the past. Ignore the online recipes for roasting those white, flaky shams that fall out of your jack-o’lantern and call your local pumpkin patch to inquire about “seed pumpkins” – Kakai is another great option.

Once you’ve located the right variety, choose a few big ones, as they have more seeds.

Also, go for hollow, not heavy, pumpkins: The heavier the pumpkin, the more flesh, whereas a hollow sound indicates space in the center that should be flush with seeds. At home, crack the pumpkins open and scoop out the goods. Pick the seeds out with your fingers and then rinse them in a colander, shaking and stirring them with your hand to loosen any clinging pulp, until they’re completely clean. Spread them out on towels and let them sit until they feel completely dry.

The Soak If you choose to just buy raw pumpkin seeds at the store, this is where you come in. You

Musquée de Provence/Fairy Tale

Peanut

This is a dramatic choice, with a body that

With brown barnacle-like growths

unfurls outward rather than upward. A French

peppering its pale pink-orange exterior, the

heirloom pumpkin that averages 15 to 20

Peanut can look a little creepy. But those

pounds each, you might see them shot through

growths are simply sugar that’s bubbled out

with green or orange tones, but when they ripen,

as the pumpkin’s grown. It’s weird but worth

they’re saddle brown with a deep orange flesh

a chance, as its sweet flesh works well for

that’s sweet but great for roasting as well.

almost any baking or cooking project.

might have heard that soaking raw almonds in water helps boost their nutritional value and increase their digestibility; the same holds true for pumpkin seeds. Additionally, soaking the seeds in saline water overnight will help them get extra crispy in the oven, thus creating the perfect fall snack.

For every 2 to 3 cups of seeds, use 1 tablespoon of kosher salt and enough water to entirely cover the seeds. Stir water and salt until salt has dissolved; add raw pumpkin seeds and let soak, at least 8 hours or overnight. Remove seeds from water and dry thoroughly.

The Roast Roasting seeds isn’t about blasting them with intense heat; rather, it’s a lower, slower roast that adheres flavor to the seeds and crisps them up nicely. For the seasoning, you can go in myriad directions: Keep it simple with salt and pepper, mix it up with curry powder or garam masala or embrace the PSL (pumpkin spice latte) with a combination of cinnamon, sugar, clove and ginger. Cumin, coriander and chili powder are universally loved as well, as is a “classic ranch” mix of dried herbs.

Sugar/pie

Winter Luxury

Right now, you can’t go to the grocery store

The Winter Luxury is another delicious choice,

of pumpkin seeds; toss until coated. Sprinkle with desired herbs and

without seeing these pumpkins. Compact and

globular with pale orange skin that looks

spices; toss to incorporate. Generously season with more kosher

standard pumpkin orange, they’re technically a

lighter from a distance due to a white, net-like

salt. On a lipped baking sheet, spread out seeds in a single layer; bake

member of the winter squash family along with

texture that graces it like fresh snow. The

until seeds are toasted and crispy, 20 to 25 minutes, stirring halfway

acorn, butternut and kabocha. This is a classic

flesh – sweet, velvety and as orange as the

through. Remove from oven and let cool completely on baking sheet.

pick for roasting and puréeing for pie.

exterior – is perfect for baking and roasting.

Once cooled, store roasted pumpkin seeds in canning jars.

Preheat oven to 325°F. Use 1 teaspoon of cooking oil for every 1 cup

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 0

37

sugar rush / how-to / the mix / shop here / midwest made / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / the dish / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

3

slice & dice

Flatten the surface Pumpkins can have wobbly bottoms, making it tricky to hold them still as you cut. If yours seems extremely off balance, tilt it on its side and shave off the problem areas.

Crack It Open Flip the pumpkin over – if necessary, connect your cuts – and then use your hands to pull the two halves apart.

Pumpkins are hard winter squashes, with an emphasis on “hard.” Their tough exterior helps keep the flesh fresh all season long, but it’s no picnic to cut. Strategy matters here – your fingers are at stake – so I suggest following these steps to get through the process unscathed.

Dig in Position the tip of your knife near the center of the pumpkin, hold it securely and use your weight to plunge it into the top and straight down to your work surface. Note: Refer to your favorite horror flick for inspiration.

Spoon Out the Seeds Using a large spoon, remove the seeds and pulp from the center of the pumpkin.

Phew, you’ve finished the hard part.

Now, what’s the best way to enjoy your prepared pumpkin pieces?

Pull the Lever Holding the other side of the pumpkin to steady it, push the knife down like a lever, making a crescent-shaped cut down the side of the pumpkin, from the top to the bottom.

Continue Cutting Set both halves cut-side down and continue to carefully but firmly slice and dice the pumpkin to suit your needs.

vFor an easier cold-weather side, simply

toss 1-inch-thick slices with olive oil and roast on a baking sheet. For flavor, snuggle some fresh herbs such as sage, thyme and rosemary next to the pumpkin, or throw ground spices such as cumin, chili powder, coriander, Aleppo pepper and turmeric in with the oil as you toss.

You can also make your own pumpkin purée for pies, quick breads and muffins – it’s a cinch, trust me. Once you’ve halved your pie pumpkin and removed the seeds and

Repeat Take the knife out, spin the pumpkin around and repeat the process on the other side.

Peeling pumpkins is, well, difficult. Luckily, many varieties of pumpkin don’t need to be peeled before roasting. A quick glance at your pumpkin of choice (or the internet) can determine whether peeling is essential or optional.

pulp, set each half cut-side down on a baking sheet. Preheat oven to 400°F and then roast until tender, 35 to 45 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool enough to handle.

Scrape flesh from skin; transfer to a food processor and process until butter-smooth, 4 to 5 minutes. Allow purée to cool completely before transferring it to freezer-safe containers; store in freezer for up to 3 months.

Note: Homemade pumpkin purée is runnier (by degrees) than the canned variety, so factor that in when using it in recipes.

4 2020 is the year of baking projects, and this

pumpkin bread stuffing is the perfect one for this Thanksgiving. Make the bread anytime and freeze it until you’re ready to complete the stuffing. Expecting a smaller crowd around the table this year?

Halve the recipe by using only one of the premade loaves, halving the stuffing ingredients and baking it in a smaller casserole dish.

Pumpkin Bread Stuffing Serves 10 to 12 Pumpkin Bread ½ cup milk, warm ²⁄₃ cup water, warm

2 Tbsp granulated sugar

1 packet (2¼ tsp) active dry yeast

1 cup pumpkin purée 4 to 5 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

2 tsp kosher salt Pumpkin Bread Stuffing

2 loaves pumpkin bread (recipe follows) ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus more to grease casserole dish

2 cups diced sweet yellow onion 1½ cups diced celery

2 cloves garlic, minced

3 Tbsp finely chopped fresh sage leaves

1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves

2 tsp garam masala

1 tsp chile flakes ½ tsp ground allspice ½ tsp ground cinnamon

2 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste 3 to 4 cups chicken stock ¾ cup raw pumpkin seeds, plus more for garnish / preparation – pumpkin bread / In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together milk, water, sugar and yeast; let sit, 5 minutes, to activate yeast. Add pumpkin purée, 4 cups flour and salt; combine using the paddle attachment. Switch out paddle for dough hook. Knead dough on low speed, adding more flour as needed (dough should clean the sides of the bowl), 5 minutes; increase speed to medium and knead, 1 minute. Transfer dough to an oiled bowl and cover bowl with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel; set in a warm spot in your kitchen to rise, 90 minutes.

Grease two loaf pans with butter. Transfer dough to a lightly floured work surface to deflate. Using a bench cutter, divide dough into two equal pieces; shape each piece into a loaf and set in its own loaf pan. Cover and let rise again, 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Bake loaves until cooked through, approximately 30 minutes. (Loaves will sound hollow when tapped on the bottom.) Remove from oven and immediately remove from pans; set on wire racks to cool completely. / preparation – pumpkin bread stuffing / Preheat oven to 300°F. Cut pumpkin bread into 1-inch chunks and spread out in a single layer on two baking sheets; bake until bread is completely dry, 45 to 55 minutes, tossing every 15 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool completely on pans.

Increase oven temperature to 375°F. Grease bottom and sides of a 9-by-13-inch casserole dish. In a Dutch oven over medium heat, melt butter. Add onion, celery, garlic, sage and rosemary; cook until softened, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in garam masala, chile flakes, allspice, cinnamon, salt and pepper; add 3 cups chicken stock and heat until steaming. Fold in cooled cubes of pumpkin bread and pumpkin seeds, working quickly until incorporated; add remaining stock as needed. Transfer mixture to prepared casserole dish; scatter more pumpkin seeds on top. Tightly cover dish with aluminum foil and bake, 40 minutes. Uncover and bake until crispy on top, another 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven and let rest, 10 minutes. Serve hot. / nov e mbe r 2 02 0

39

FOR ALL YOUR . . .

PROMOTION

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 0

BY CAT NEVILLE

Garlicky Spinach-and Salami-Stuffed Chicken Breasts SERVES | 4 |

4 cups spinach leaves

1 lemon

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts

3 garlic cloves, minced

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

olive oil

¼ cup mascarpone cheese

1 cup dry white wine

2 oz Genoa salami

½ cup chicken broth

| PREPARATION | Preheat your oven to 375°F. Chop

spinach and sauté in a small skillet until wilted.

Squeeze out the moisture as you transfer to a bowl; add cheese and then season with salt and pepper and allow to cool. Finely chop the Genoa salami and add to spinach. Zest lemon and add zest to mixture, reserving the lemon itself. Stir in the minced garlic. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Using a rolling pin, pound chicken breasts between two sheets of wax paper until 1/8-inch thick. Evenly spread spinach-salami mixture over the breasts and then roll them up, starting with the narrow end. Tie the breasts with kitchen twine at 1-inch intervals (you’ll probably tie each 3 or 4 times) to ensure the filling stays inside and

the breasts don’t open during cooking. Season outside of breasts with salt and pepper.

Heat a skillet over medium-high and add olive oil, swirling to coat the pan. Add chicken to the pan and brown on all sides. Transfer skillet to oven and allow chicken to cook for about 10 minutes, until they reach 160°F. Pull skillet from the oven and transfer stuffed breasts to a platter.

Deglaze the pan with white wine and allow wine to reduce by half, then add juice of ½ lemon and chicken broth. Allow to simmer and reduce a bit, then taste and adjust seasoning. Remove twine from the breasts and slice to reveal the swirl of filling. Serve with pan sauce spooned over or on the side.

PROMOTION

SERVES | 8 to 10 |

olive oil

salt and pepper to taste

½ white onion, diced

4 cups chicken or vegetable stock, or more as needed

6 cloves garlic, minced 1 jalapeño, diced

1 tsp dried oregano

1 serrano pepper, diced

2 cans cannellini or white kidney beans,drained

3 poblano peppers, diced

1 can hominy, drained

1 Tbsp cumin

chopped cilantro, to serve

1 tsp coriander

fresh lime wedges, to serve

1 tsp cardamom

Greek-style plain yogurt, to serve

1 tsp cayenne

tortillas, to serve

1 ½ lbs ground turkey | PREPARATION | Heat Dutch oven over

medium and then swirl in olive oil to coat the bottom of the pot. Add in onion and sauté until translucent, then add garlic, stirring until fragrant, a few seconds. Add in cumin, coriander, cardamom and cayenne, stirring the spices and allowing the heat and oil to release their aroma. Add jalapeño, serrano and poblano peppers and sauté until just beginning to become crisp-tender, then add ground turkey to the pot and cook until no longer pink, adding salt and pepper to taste.

Pour in stock and add oregano, stirring to combine. Allow to simmer for 15 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more stock if necessary. In a small bowl, mash ¼ to ½ cup of the beans into a paste and add to the pot, stirring, to help thicken the chili and make it more like a stew and less like a soup. Add beans and hominy and simmer another 15 minutes, until beans and hominy are heated through.

Taste again and adjust seasoning. Serve with chopped cilantro, lime wedges, Greek yogurt and warm tortillas.

HEALTHY COOKING NEEDS

Green Turkey Chili

Deliciously Healthy is brought to you by Kenrick's, where you can find all the ingredients you need.

For more healthy recipes and cooking videos, visit feastmagazine.com/sponsored. / nov e mbe r 2 02 0

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57

moulard to the masses

hunger in the heartland

easy as pie

St. Louis-based DUCKCHAR hopes to change the perception of duck throughout the U.S.

How local hunger-relief organizations are fighting food insecurity in Missouri.

These four savory pies repackage classic Thanksgiving flavors.

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 0

43

Moulard to the Masses E

xpecting a smaller crowd for Thanksgiving this year? Skip the enormous turkey and serve something unexpected: Moulard duck breast.

Moulard duck – not to be confused with Mallard duck – has deep color and flavor that’s

akin to steak, whereas the duck you would typically find on menus across the U.S. is Pekin duck, which is more similar to chicken. “The reason we use those two comparisons – beef and chicken – is because Moulard duck has the same coloring as beef, and it produces larger breasts, which you cook medium-rare like you would steak. Pekin duck has lighter colored meat, it’s smaller, and it doesn’t have the same hearty, rich flavor that the Moulard delivers,” says Josh Reznick, who launched DUCKCHAR, the St. Louis-based mail-order duck company, with his brother, Davi, in 2016.

Davi fell in love with duck in 2010, when he was teaching English as a second language in Bordeaux, France – “the mecca of duck cuisine,” he says. “I was eating duck all the time there, especially Moulard duck breast, which is a staple on French menus – kind of like rib eye is on menus in the U.S.” Between homemade meals, dinners at duck-only farm-to-table restaurants (where literally every dish was made of duck) and even late-night gatherings at friends’ apartments featuring regional wine and duck charcuterie, he was hooked.

Back in the U.S., craving the Moulard duck’s succulent flavors and textures, Davi soon realized that the breed wasn’t readily available to the average consumer; in fact, most

St. Louis-based DUCKCHAR is working to make duck more accessible to home cooks across the country.

Americans didn’t even know what it was. So, while getting his Master of Business Administration from Washington University in St. Louis, he and Josh founded DUCKCHAR

As they began research for the business, they discovered that only a handful of farms in North America raise Moulard ducks, so they went back to the source. “I contacted like 50 Moulard duck farmers in France, and all of them ignored me except one,” Davi says with a laugh. “So, over Thanksgiving during my second year of business school, I flew [there] and spent a day with him, learning about his farm.” Following that farmer through his daily routine, Davi learned about duck farming from the perspective of a family-owned and -operated farm as well as the economics of the duck industry. He also established important contacts – “an invaluable resource that we later used for building out our

Photography courtesy of duckchar

business,” he says.

From that experience, Davi knew what to look for when connecting with Moulard duck farms closer to home, and he and Josh started building relationships with two – one in New York and one in French Canada – which raise and process the Moulard ducks and ship the meat to St. Louis where DUCKCHAR prepares it, packages it and ships it directly to customers. As part of its green initiative, DUCKCHAR uses cold storage liners made from recycled plastic water bottles, and the liner, kraft paper and cardboard box that arrive on your doorstep are all 100 percent recyclable.

To test the waters and gauge the response from customers outside of their friends and family, the brothers decided to sell their Moulard duck breasts at the Kirkwood Farmers’ Market. “We showed up with an LLC, a logo, a cooler and [a product] that people were totally unfamiliar with,” says Josh, and for a month, they sold out every week. “We followed up with all of our customers, and everyone loved it,” he continues. “So we were like, ‘Alright, I think we’re on to something.’ That’s when we really went for it and ramped things up.”

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 0

Recipe courtesy of Davi Reznick, co-owner, DUCKCHAR

to fill the void.

Written by rachel huffman

44

Duck Fat-Roasted Potatoes

Cooking these potatoes in duck fat makes them extra crispy on the outside and smooth and rich on the inside. serves 4 2 ½

lb yellow potatoes such as Yukon Gold cup DUCKCHAR duck fat salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 425°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Meanwhile, cut potatoes to preferred size. Add potatoes to boiling water; boil until fork-tender, approximately 7 minutes.

Drain potatoes and transfer to a large bowl. Add duck fat, salt and pepper; toss to evenly coat all potatoes with duck fat. Transfer potatoes to prepared baking sheet, spacing approximately 2 inches apart. (Properly spacing potatoes to avoid clutter is the most important step in cooking duck fat-roasted potatoes; distance between them ensures that they crisp.) Roast potatoes, 25 minutes; increase oven temperature to 500°F and cook, another 5 to 10 minutes. Remove from oven and serve immediately.

“It’s the most beautiful duck breast you’ve ever seen. It’s not like a regular American duck breast; it’s a big, thick piece of meat, and rare to medium-rare is the only way to serve it.”

–mike johnson, chef-owner, sugarfire smoke house

Over the next year, Josh and Davi focused on finding a package designer, getting their labels approved by the USDA, building their website and securing their e-commerce supply chain. By the summer of 2017, they had a packaged product that they could get into people’s hands – one that they felt had the potential to make waves in the meat-loving world.

DUCKCHAR’s flagship products are the Moulard duck breast, which is sold raw or smoked and cured – think charcuterie – and duck fat, and it’s added some new items such as prosciutto, pastrami and bacon, which are all made of Moulard duck breast, as well as Moulard duck legs.

“The best way to unlock the flavor and texture of the duck legs is through slow cooking – you can’t cook them quickly like the duck breasts,” says Davi. “When you braise or smoke duck legs, you get a fallaway-from-the-bone tenderness. Cooked, the meat has a deep brown color to it and the texture is very beefy, but the flavor is all duck – which I think is even richer than what you would get with braised beef.” / nov e mbe r 2 02 0

45

In the beginning, DUCKCHAR sold only Moulard duck breast because it was impossible to predict customer demand. “The duck fat was the second product we offered, and it came about because customers who were buying our duck breast wanted more duck fat,” says Davi.

“When the fat cooks off of the duck, if you save that fat, you can use it for roasting potatoes or whatever you’d like to do with it,” adds Josh. “So there was already that appetite for the duck fat, and customers were excited because they were no longer limited by whatever duck fat was left over from cooking.

It’s nice when your products can build off of each other.”

Something else the brothers didn’t expect when they started the business was how welcoming the barbecue community would be. “We go to barbecue competitions, where we’re able to introduce [Moulard duck breast] to people who might have never encountered it otherwise,” says Josh, “and chefs such as Mike Johnson of Sugarfire [Smoke House and Hi-Pointe Drive-In] love it.”

“At a place like Sugarfire, [Johnson] really knows how to showcase the product,” says Davi, “so when people try it, they’re like, ‘Wow, I didn’t even know that this is a meat I would enjoy.’ It’s cool because that gives the customer the perfect first touch of the product.”

Before turning to barbecue and burgers, Johnson was a finedining chef. He worked in France for a few years, where he frequently – and happily – cooked with Moulard duck. “I’m a huge fan,” he says. “It’s the most beautiful duck breast you’ve ever seen. It’s not like a regular American duck breast; it’s a big, thick piece of meat, and rare to medium-rare is the only way to serve it, which sounds weird for poultry, but we just gotta get over that. It’s like eating a steak without all the guilt. Seriously, it’s good for you – less calories, way more heart-healthy – and when I say it tastes like a steak, I mean it tastes like a steak. You’d think you were eating a steak if you didn’t know the difference.”

still hesitate to add duck to their home-cooking repertoire.

sound very similar,” continues Josh. “So some people get

At his restaurants, Johnson sometimes smokes the Moulard

“The biggest misconception – at least what we’ve found – is

confused right off the bat.” Don’t let that happen to you.

duck breast: “Hot smoke or cold smoke – it’s very versatile,” he

that it’s really difficult to cook,” says Davi. “People’s first

says. “And we salt-cure the [Moulard duck] legs and then slow

interaction with duck is usually in a restaurant, but if you ask

DUCKCHAR products are available in select grocery stores

cook them in their own fat until they fall apart – delicious.”

them if they’ve ever bought it to make at home, most people

in St. Louis – Baumann’s Fine Meats on Manchester Road,

will say no.”

for example, carries everything DUCKCHAR sells – but the

Davi and Josh have also had a lot of luck connecting with

majority of the company’s business is done online. It ships

premium grill companies such as Big Green Egg and Traeger.

Davi and Josh want to stress that duck is super easy to cook,

anywhere in the contiguous U.S., and Josh says that being

They’ve attended many Big Green Egg festivals – which are

especially Moulard duck breast. With its robust natural flavor,

based in St. Louis – in the middle of the country – allows them

put on by customers and retailers, not the company – where

all you have to do is season it with salt and pepper and pan-

to deliver almost any order within a week.

they do cooking demonstrations, and they’ve even created Big

sear it like steak; for barbecue fans, it’s also incredible smoked.

Green Egg-specific recipes for their website, which allow them

“People associate duck with French cooking – gourmet,

All it takes is one bite for people to fall in love with Moulard

to engage with Big Green Egg customers. Traeger sent the

inaccessible – so a lot of our recipes [for how to cook duck]

duck – something that’s reflected in DUCKCHAR’s increasing

Reznicks one of its smokers; they film themselves cooking with

are very basic to shed that image,” says Josh. On DUCKCHAR’s

sales. The company surpassed its 2019 sales very early in

it, and the company shares the videos on its social media pages.

website, there are also recipes for smoked duck sliders, duck

2020, which Josh ascribes to the COVID-19 pandemic and the

“Connecting with the Traeger and Big Green Egg communities

breast quesadillas, seared duck breast ramen and even a duck

fact that people are eating at home more, in addition to the

allows us to plug into this huge network of customers who love

bacon breakfast sandwich.

exquisite quality of the meat. “I always say, ‘No new taste buds

grilling, enjoy cooking premium meats and, more importantly,

or cooking skills required,’” says Davi. “People don’t have to

are excited about the idea of sharing a new product like

The other issue that can keep duck off the menu is that some

change their eating habits or preferences to enjoy it, so we’re

DUCKCHAR with their friends and family,” says Josh.

people think it might be fatty or gamey. “Some of that has to do

pretty confident that after the first bite, people will be happy

with people being served wild game,” explains Davi.

with our products.”

“We sell Moulard duck, and wild duck is Mallard duck – they

duckchar.com

As much praise as DUCKCHAR products have received from amateur cooks and professional chefs alike, many consumers

46

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 0

Pan-Seared Moulard Duck Breast with Horseradish Cream Recipe courtesy of Davi Reznick, co-owner, DUCKCHAR

This straightforward recipe showcases the assertive flavor and succulent texture of Moulard duck breast, which makes for a wonderfully unique focus for a weeknight meal or even an intimate holiday dinner. serves 2 1 DUCKCHAR Moulard duck breast kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp prepared horseradish or freshly grated horseradish root 3 Tbsp sour cream paprika / preparation / Score skin of duck breast.

(Scoring is key to crispy skin because it allows the fat to render during the cook, so take your time and add as many scoring lines as you can.) Season both sides of duck breast, heavily on the skin side and lightly on the fresh side, with salt and pepper. In a cast-iron or steel skillet, place duck breast

skin-side down and set over medium-high heat; pan-sear until skin is thin, crispy and golden. As duck breast cooks, continuously ladle out rendered duck fat and reserve for other recipes. Flip duck breast; continue to cook, skin-side up, until internal temperature reaches 131°F and then immediately transfer to a plate. (The entire cooking process should take 7 to 10 minutes.) Loosely cover duck breast with aluminum foil and allow to rest, 5 minutes. (During this time, the internal temperature will rise to 135°F for a perfect medium-rare finish.) In a small bowl, whisk together horseradish and sour cream; garnish with a sprinkle of paprika. Slice duck breast and serve with horseradish cream on the side.

Our winter seasonal selection is pretty sweet. / nov e mbe r 2 02 0

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 0

The COVID-19 pandemic has caused a spike in food insecurity, and local hunger-relief organizations are fighting to meet the growing need.

Written by Liz Miller Illustrations by Shannon Levin

on't be afraid to ask for help,” says a young mother,

more infant mortality for babies who are born prematurely.

her toddler wriggling and smiling in her arms. She’s

Our goal with this program is to prove that food should be a

standing in the doorway of her St. Louis home,

reimbursable health care expense.”

D

answering questions about her struggles with food insecurity during the pandemic. “It seems like we’re all in this alone, but

The idea that food should be a reimbursable health care

there are places like this that are willing to help us out, and

expense is increasingly relevant in 2020. The young mother’s

it’s better to work together than to try to do it all on your own.

comments about seeking assistance through the Fresh Rx

That’s the only way you’re going to make it through anything.”

program were captured for an OFS promotional video posted on YouTube in May, just two months after COVID-19 began

During her pregnancy, the young mother benefited from

spreading across Missouri.

Fresh Rx: Nourishing Healthy Starts, a program run by nonprofit hunger-relief organization Operation Food

Before the pandemic, food insecurity in the U.S. was at the

Search (OFS) in St. Louis. The program supports low-income

lowest point seen since the Great Recession. In 2018, the

pregnant people with nutrition education, cooking courses

national food insecurity rate was 11.1 percent, with Black

and access to healthy, nutrient-dense food. This summer, it

and Hispanic households, families with children and people

surpassed 100 enrollees, with an ultimate goal of 184 new

living in rural areas disproportionately affected by food

participants in the next year, says OFS executive director

insecurity, according to a September 2019 report by the U.S.

Kristen Wild.

Department of Agriculture’s Economic Research Service. In Missouri, the report found that the food insecurity rate was

“We’ve had great success with it – the preterm birth rate is

11.7 percent, slightly above the national average. By July 2020,

50 percent lower than it is for [pregnant people] who are on

after the economic devastation caused by the COVID-19

Medicaid in St. Louis County and St. Louis city,” explains Wild.

pandemic, some 54 million Americans, including one in

“This is a great accomplishment. Oftentimes babies who are

four children – 16.7 percent of the U.S. population – were

born prematurely [accrue] incredible NICU costs, and there’s

estimated to face food insecurity at some point in 2020.

“I had never asked for help before, but I asked my boss when I will be back to work, and he didn’t know. God bless you all! It was very important [to receive food from Harvesters]. It helped.”

–Virginia, a mother of three children ages eight, 10 and 13, who shared her story with the staff at Harvesters after receiving food from its mobile pantry in Wyandotte County, Kansas / nov e mbe r 2 02 0

49

Following massive waves of job loss in the spring, many Americans found themselves seeking hunger relief and housing and health care assistance for the first time. For people who were just scraping by before the pandemic, unemployment worsened existing problems related to food insecurity and housing instability.

The abrupt transition to virtual learning, which left millions of schoolchildren without immediate access to free or reducedprice breakfast and lunch, further compounded food-related challenges. From July 2019 to March 2020, 35,600,935 breakfasts and 67,381,332 lunches were served to Missouri students through federally assisted meal programs, according to the Missouri Department of Elementary & Secondary Education. In the days after classrooms went virtual, many

“When you have access to enough food, then you’re obviously able to focus better on what things you need to do. If you’re working, you’re able to perform better at work. If you’re a senior, you’re able to stay in your home independently longer. Children are able to focus and perform better at school.”

–Sarah Biles, director of communications, Harvesters

parents were left in crisis over how to feed their children.

u

With food insecurity worsening, local and regional hunger-relief organizations have acted quickly to address the needs of their communities. OFS is the largest distributor of free food in the greater St. Louis metro area, serving 15 counties in Missouri and 15 in Illinois. Meanwhile, the nation’s largest domestic hunger-relief organization, Feeding America, has partnered with six food banks in Missouri, including Harvesters in the Kansas City area and Ozarks Food Harvest (OFH) in Springfield.

H

unger – particularly a lack of consistent access to nutritious meals – causes myriad harmful effects on overall health and well-being. Food insecurity

touches every age and life experience, and no matter the circumstance, leads to both immediate and long-term health issues, says Biles.

Early on, each organization offered mobile meal packs in order to distribute food safely through car windows and in parking

“When you have access to enough food, then you’re obviously

lots. In Kansas City, Harvesters already operated 230 mobile

able to focus better on what things you need to do,” she

food pantries per month, and it has added some 60 sites

continues. “If you’re working, you’re able to perform better

since March. In St. Louis, OFS partnered with St. Louis County

at work. If you’re a senior, you’re able to stay in your home

libraries to offer drive-thru emergency meal packs for families,

independently longer. Children are able to focus and perform

and in Springfield, OFH added drive-thru food pantries

better at school.”

and additional mobile food pantries. Food distributors and farmers, big and small, donated fresh produce, meat and dairy

Child food insecurity is especially devastating. For children,

products to bolster their operations.

hunger can delay physical development, hamper mental health and cause behavioral problems, plus it increases the

In late spring and early summer, with federal unemployment

likelihood of chronic illnesses such as asthma and anemia.

relief and stimulus checks reaching millions of Americans,

The impact of child food insecurity runs much deeper, though,

some food pantries saw a very slight dip in demand.

inhibiting students from reaching their full potential well into

When those relief programs ended, however, the demand

adulthood. “Everything is interconnected,” says Wild. “If kids

immediately returned, explains Sarah Biles, director of

are not getting healthy food, that impacts their overall general

communications at Harvesters. “[In early September], we

health. It impacts their ability to focus in school, to learn and to

[were already] seeing our levels go up again to as high as what

interact with others.”

we saw early on [in March],” she continues. “So, unless we see significant additional federal help in the winter, we anticipate

As schools temporarily closed this spring, the number of food-

that the need is going to continue to remain quite high for

insecure children rose. In a national survey conducted from

several months.”

late April to mid-July by the U.S. Department of Commerce in partnership with other federal agencies, researchers found

Although resources are more stretched than ever, hunger-

that the national average for child food insufficiency grew

relief organizations such as OFS, Harvesters and OFH are

from 16.8 percent in mid-June to 19.9 percent in late July. A

fighting to meet the growing demand. “Before the pandemic

recent study by Feeding America projected that 24 to 26

hit, roughly one in five children and one in seven adults were

percent of children in Missouri will face food insecurity in

facing hunger in our service area,” says Jordan Browning, public

2020. By comparison, a 2018 study found that 15.2 percent of

information officer at OFH. “We’re planning for it to get worse

children in Missouri were living with food insecurity.

before it gets better. It’s just a compounding of factors that’s making it a really scary time for food-insecure people. So we’re

In particular, the parents of students attending high-poverty

ramping up distribution to make sure that we’re getting access

schools, defined by the National Center for Education Statistics

to people, especially as a majority of our service area is rural.

as those where more than 75 percent of students are eligible

We’re making sure they’re not forgotten.”

for free or reduced-price meals, were in especially dire straits.

50

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 0

“We have never had to go to The Food Bank, but I am very [grateful for it] in this time of need with decreased working hours and barely enough [money] to scrape by with regular everyday bills.

Being able to come to The Food Bank, my family wants to say, ‘Thank you so much for being there!’”

–Laura, a recipient of assistance from The Food Bank for Central & Northeast Missouri in Columbia

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 0

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“There are some districts [in the St. Louis area] where every

accessibility issues (some school districts only offered free or

child is able to take advantage of the free or reduced-price

reduced-price meals for pickup one day a week).

lunch program,” says Wild. “A lot of kids and families depend on that food through the program, which also includes breakfast, so [school closures were] really impacting access. Because kids weren’t going to school every day, a lot of kids were not getting the nutrition that they were accustomed to.”

As the pandemic took hold, hunger-relief organizations pivoted to ensure that students maintained access to those free or reduced-price meals. OFS funneled more resources into its existing Summer Food Service Program, which is partially funded by the USDA to provide students with meals during summer vacation. In response to the pandemic, the federal government issued waivers allowing organizations such as OFS to launch its Summer Food Service Program in late March.

The modified meal program allowed families to pick up food every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, equaling six days of breakfasts and lunches for children. OFS started the initiative with approximately 10 distribution sites across the St. Louis area and eventually expanded into more than 40.

“Some of the waivers allowed us to see children in a noncongregate setting, which was really critical because normally kids have to be physically present where they receive the meal – they have to eat on premises,” says Wild. “So this waiver allowed parents to come and pick up food for their kids in a drive-thru model. It also allowed for multiple meals to be served each time the families came [by].”

From late March through late August, OFS served more than 500,000 meals to students in need. Wild says the program filled gaps for families who couldn’t easily access meals from their school districts, whether due to transportation issues or

“We try to explain it [to our kids] on a level that they can understand: They are safe and we’re going to be OK and things will come back to some kind of normal, be it a new way of doing things.

To now be on the receiving end, there are no words for that feeling. It was eye-opening, it really was.

I am beyond thankful.”

–Jenny, a wife and mother of two children, ages 11 and 13, who received food assistance for the first time during the pandemic from the St. Louis Area Foodbank

Other existing OFS programs have had to be adapted during the pandemic as well. Operation Backpack, which provides schoolchildren with weekend food assistance, saw a spike in need this spring. OFS currently works with 70-plus school districts and independent schools in 17 counties and typically provides weekend meals for approximately 8,000 children throughout the year. In 2020, OFS is aiming to provide more than 900,000 meals through its Operation Backpack program.

“I wish there was no need for organizations like Operation Food Search, but the reality is . . . there is a substantial need, greater now than ever,” says Wild. “It’s gratifying to work alongside passionate and talented colleagues and serve in a role where I am not only helping to meet immediate and basic needs in our community but also addressing the root causes of hunger.”

At Harvesters in the Kansas City area, a similar program, BackSnack, has historically provided 17,000 meals to kids every weekend. In order to meet families where they are during the pandemic, Biles says that the program evolved to include meal delivery in partnership with area schools.

“We’re working with school districts to try to help supplement that as best we can,” she continues. “I know a lot of districts have been able to distribute food in the spring and summer through a grab-and-go model. They’ve been able to get some meals out to students while continuing to try to get BackSnack, our weekend feeding program, out to children, which would normally be distributed through the school. Some school districts were able to either deliver those meals directly to students at their homes or utilize bus drivers to deliver the packs.” / nov e mbe r 2 02 0

53

photography courtesy of harvesters in kansas city and operation food search in st. louis

Another anchor initiative at Harvesters, its Kids Cafe program,

programs that have been similarly adapted to better serve

typically distributes more than 325,000 summer and after-

the community during the pandemic. The organization is

school meals to students. Biles says the program has also been

succeeding, too: During its last fiscal year, from July 2019 to

adapted during the pandemic to provide food for students

June 2020, OFH saw a 20-percent increase in food distribution,

regardless of the season. The program, which provides free

providing the community with 22 million meals. This marks the

meals to children ages one to 18, shifted to new distribution sites

largest year-to-year increase in its entire 37-year history.

across the Kansas City metro area in 2020, including community centers and health clinics in addition to school districts. Biles

“We’re adapting to serve the population as best we can,” says

says Harvesters will continue to grow its network of distribution

Browning. “As unemployment continues and child food insecurity

sites into the fall and winter as well.

rates rise, we’re making sure that we’re doing everything we can so that nobody has to wonder where their next meal is going to

“Everybody who has received food from Harvesters’ network –

come from. We’re making sure those basic needs are covered so

those we’ve encountered and what we’ve heard from our

that people can flourish. It’s why we do what we do.”

agencies – has been very, very grateful,” says Biles. “Many people are making tough, tough choices right now. People have limited

The daily challenges of living during the pandemic can make a

funds and have to decide, ‘Do I pay rent this month or do I buy

day feel like a week, a week feel like a month, a month feel like

food? Am I buying medicine this month or am I buying food? Am I

a year. For families struggling with food insecurity, that time is

paying utilities or am I buying food?’ If we can help eliminate one

often marked by how far they can stretch groceries or even a

of those decisions by giving them access to food, then that really

single meal.

does take a lot of stress off of people’s shoulders.”

What hasn’t changed from so many months ago is an Meanwhile, in the Ozarks, Browning says OFH has provided

essential truth, one shared by a young mother in St. Louis.

thousands of pounds of fresh produce, meat, dairy products

Peering into a video camera, her small child wrapped in her

and non-perishable goods to hundreds of families through its

arms, she reminds us that the only way we’ll get through this –

mobile food pantries. OFH also offers a backpack program

the only way to get through anything – is by working together

for schoolchildren as well as summer and after-school

and helping one another.

54

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 0

“I’ve been unemployed for two to three weeks now.

We’ve just been really tight with everything we do. I’ve been going to food pantries, and the school gives away food for the kids. I think these [mobile food pantries] are a blessing from the Lord.”

–Jimmy, a recipient of assistance from the Southeast Missouri Food Bank in Sikeston

Visit feastmagazine.com to see what these organizations have planned for the holiday season.

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 0

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 0

Story and recipes

by Shannon Weber, writer and recipe developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

This year, I’m on a mission to refine the Thanksgiving menu, transforming the traditional turkey and trimmings into sophisticated savory pies to serve up at smaller gatherings. Each of these recipes makes enough to feed a moderately sized dinner party or a party of two to four with leftovers. Plus, these pies are so easy to assemble, you’ll enjoy making them all winter long.

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 0

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This tart is all about creativity and use of space, so don’t be afraid to release your inner artist. Use your favorite round roots, grabbing a variety of small and large options so that you have plenty of ways to make it gorgeous. Taleggio works well against the sweetness of the vegetables; its mild and almost fruity flavor is delightful, but some people are put off by its potent aroma. If it’s too much for you or your guests, less-stinky Brie or Robiola are great stand-ins. / nov e mbe r 2 02 0

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Need a showstopper that isn’t fussy?

Galettes are always stunning, but this one in particular takes little to no effort to put together. Just remember to really press the dough together as you fold the sides so that the crust isn’t overly thick where it overlaps. / nov e mbe r 2 02 0

61

Picked to Perfection At Local Retailers & stonehillwinery.com

These pockets of goodness insulate themselves, so you can wait 15 to 20 minutes to serve them and they’ll still be piping hot. Once the holiday season is over, pair them with a green salad for a delicious weeknight dinner.

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 0

63

This is no peas-and-carrots affair. This turkey pot pie is all the things you love about Thanksgiving wrapped into a golden tower of crust. Rather than roasting a whole turkey, use the meat from three to four turkey legs – herb-buttered and roasted at 350°F for an hour and a half – and for the squash, choose your favorite – any nutty, orange-hued winter variety will be lovely.

64

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 0

serves 8 Crust 1¾ cup all-purpose flour 1 Tbsp granulated sugar 1½ tsp kosher salt 10 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut in ½-inch cubes and chilled until ready to use 1 tsp white vinegar 8 Tbsp ice water Acorn, butternut, Filling 2 Tbsp unsalted butter Calabaza and 1½ cups diced sweet yellow onion kabocha squash are 3 cloves garlic, minced all good options. ¹⁄₈ lb uncooked bacon, cut in ½-inch pieces 1 cup peeled and small dice parsnips 1 cup peeled and small dice orange winter squash 2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh sage leaves 1½ tsp dried oregano 1¾ cups chicken broth ¼ cup all-purpose flour ½ cup heavy cream 2 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste ½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg ¼ tsp ground mace 1 lb roast turkey, roughly chopped or torn into ¾-inch pieces ¹⁄₃ cup roughly chopped fresh parsley leaves / preparation – crust / Add flour, sugar and salt to the bowl of a food processor; pulse to combine.

Add butter; pulse in 1-second bursts until mixture looks like wet sand, 10 to 15 pulses. Sprinkle vinegar on top and then add ice water; pulse until mixture just begins to come together in a ball. Remove dough from food processor; divide into two pieces, one with ¹⁄₃ of the dough and the other with ²⁄₃ of the dough. Form each piece into a smooth ball and then press into 1-inch-thick disks; tightly wrap each disk in plastic wrap and chill in refrigerator, at least 4 hours or overnight. / preparation – filling / Heat butter in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion, garlic and bacon; stirring frequently, cook until softened, 5 minutes. Add parsnips, winter squash, sage and oregano; cover and cook, 7 to 8 minutes, stirring halfway through. Uncover, add chicken broth and then sprinkle in flour as you whisk to dissolve lumps. Once flour is incorporated, stir in heavy cream; add salt, pepper, nutmeg and mace. Stir in turkey and bring mixture to a bubble; stirring frequently, cook, uncovered, until thick and creamy, 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in parsley. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Set aside. / assembly / Preheat oven to 400°F and set rack in middle of oven. Line a lipped baking sheet with parchment paper. Remove ²⁄₃ disk of dough from refrigerator and transfer to a generously floured work surface; roll out into a 13-inch round. Fold round in thirds over rolling pin and transfer to a 9-inch springform pan, lining bottom and up the sides to the top edge of the pan. (If you don’t have a springform pan, a deep-dish 9-inch pie pan should be large enough to handle this as well.) Set in freezer, 20 minutes.

Just before removing pan from freezer, roll out remaining ¹⁄₃ disk of dough into a 10-inch round on floured work surface. Remove pan from freezer and carefully pour turkey filling in the center, spreading with the back of a spoon to even out top. Lay 10-inch round over filling; fold edges of both crusts together to seal, crimping as you go. Trim crust as needed. Cut a ½-inch hole in top and make several slashes around it to vent steam. Place pan on prepared baking sheet and transfer to oven; bake until crust is deep golden all over and filling is bubbling, 1 hour. Remove from oven and allow filling to cool slightly and set, 30 minutes. Cut into pieces and serve hot.

serves 8 to 10

2

2

¹⁄₃

3 ¾

1 2 to 3 ¼

2

Think acorn squash, butternut squash, carrots, parsnips and turnips.

lbs root vegetables, peeled and/or seeded as needed and cut into ½-inch-thick rounds Tbsp olive oil, divided kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste cup small dice shallots Tbsp water cup granulated sugar Tbsp white wine vinegar tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves, plus 1 sprig for garnish lb Taleggio, rind removed and torn into small pieces sheets frozen puff pastry, thawed in refrigerator overnight, each rolled out into a 10-by-10-inch square and then set back in refrigerator until ready to use

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss root vegetables with 1 tablespoon oil; season with salt and pepper to taste. Roast, 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a medium sauté pan over medium heat, sauté shallots until softened, 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove from heat and set aside. In a small saucepan over medium heat, whisk water and sugar together to caramelize; continue whisking until sugar has dissolved and then let bubble, undisturbed, until light golden in color, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat; working quickly, whisk in vinegar and then immediately pour mixture into a 9-by-13-inch glass pan and spread out over the bottom. Place rosemary sprig in pan and then lay vegetable rounds on top, roasted-side down. (Place larger rounds as close together as possible without overlapping and fill in empty spaces with smaller rounds.) Scatter shallots and chopped rosemary over top and then evenly divide Taleggio over that; season with salt and pepper to taste. Remove pastry squares from refrigerator and lay over top. Using a thin, sharp knife, trim edges so they reach ½ inch up the sides of the pan and then firmly tuck edges down alongside vegetable layers. Poke pastry all over with fork to vent, 6 to 7 times. Transfer to oven (which should still be set at 400°F) and bake, 20 minutes; reduce heat to 350°F and continue baking, another 22 to 25 minutes. Remove from oven and let sit, 10 minutes. Place serving platter on top of pan and then flip tarte tatin onto platter. Serve hot. / nov e mbe r 2 02 0

65

serves 6 to 8 Crust 1¾ cup all-purpose flour 1 Tbsp granulated sugar 1½ tsp kosher salt 10 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut in ½-inch cubes and chilled until ready to use 1 tsp white vinegar 8 Tbsp ice water Filling 5 Tbsp olive oil, divided 2 large leeks (1 to 1½ lbs), white and light green parts, cleaned, halved and cut into ½-inch-thick rings ¾ lb fresh shiitake mushrooms, cleaned, stemmed and cut in ¼-inch slices 1 Tbsp fresh thyme leaves 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ tsp salt, plus more for seasoning ¼ cup crème fraîche freshly ground black pepper ½ cup fresh goat cheese, at room temperature ¼ cup heavy cream ½ lb high-quality bacon, crisped in oven and drained 1 large egg, beaten / preparation – crust / Add flour, sugar and salt to the bowl of a food processor; pulse to combine.

Add butter; pulse in 1-second bursts until mixture looks like wet sand, 10 to 15 pulses. Sprinkle vinegar on top and then add ice water; pulse until mixture just begins to come together in a ball. Remove dough from food processor; form into a smooth ball and then press into a 1-inch-thick disk. Tightly wrap disk in plastic wrap and transfer to refrigerator; chill, at least 4 hours or overnight. / preparation – filling / In a large skillet over medium heat, add 2 tablespoons oil and leeks; cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and just beginning to brown, 10 minutes. Transfer softened leeks to a dish and set aside. In the same skillet, heat remaining oil over medium heat; add mushrooms, thyme, garlic and salt; stirring frequently, cook until mushrooms are tender, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat and add leeks back into pan; add crème fraîche and toss to combine. Generously season with salt and pepper. In a bowl, whisk together goat cheese and heavy cream until smooth; set aside. / assembly / Preheat oven to 400°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Remove dough from refrigerator and lay on a generously floured work surface; roll out until dough is 14 inches in diameter, turning frequently and trimming edges as needed to round. Evenly spread goat cheese mixture over crust, leaving a 2-inch border. Finely chop half of the bacon and sprinkle over goat cheese mixture; add half of the leek mixture, spreading to cover goat cheese. Roughly chop remaining bacon and layer half on top of leeks; add remaining leek mixture and top with remaining bacon. Fold crust up and over sides, pleating and pressing folds firmly together as you work. Brush crust all over with egg wash and place in oven; reduce heat to 375°F and bake until crust is deep golden and filling is beginning to brown, 40 to 45 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to set, 5 minutes. Slice into sections and serve hot.

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serves 8 Filling 1¼ lbs sweet potatoes, peeled and cut in 1-inch chunks 3 Tbsp butter 2 Tbsp honey ½ tsp, plus 1 large pinch, kosher salt 1 cup water ¾ cup golden raisins ¾ cup gold rum 2 Tbsp grapeseed or vegetable oil 2 lbs sweet yellow onions, sliced pole to pole in ¼-inch slices 2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar

Sweet Potato Hand Pies filling (recipe follows) 2 sheets frozen puff pastry, thawed in refrigerator overnight flour, for dusting ¹⁄₃ cup walnuts, toasted and chopped 1 large egg, beaten

/ preparation – filling / Add sweet potatoes, butter, honey, ½ teaspoon salt and water to a large saucepan and set over high heat; bring to a boil, cover and then reduce heat to simmer. Cook until potatoes are tender, 20 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool slightly, 30 minutes. Remove potatoes from liquid and add to a mixer or food processor; blend until mashed and smooth. (A hand or stand mixer will give the potatoes a little texture while a food processor will create more of a purée.)

Add raisins and rum to a small saucepan and set over medium heat; cook until mixture bubbles. Reduce heat and simmer until raisins are plump and soft, 20 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool completely in liquid.

Heat oil in a cast-iron skillet or large stainless-steel skillet over medium heat. Add onion and remaining salt and stir to coat; cover and cook until onion has softened, 10 to 15 minutes. Uncover and continue to caramelize; cook until onions are deeply golden, 45 minutes to 1 hour, stirring every 5 minutes to scrape bits from bottom of pan. (If moisture evaporates, add a little water at a time to pan.) Add raisins, 1 tablespoon raisin-rum liquid and apple cider vinegar to pan; cook until liquid has evaporated, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. / preparation – sweet potato hand pies / Preheat oven to 400°F and place filling components within reach. Remove both sheets of puff pastry from refrigerator and transfer to a floured work surface; roll each sheet into a 10-by-10-inch square. Using a sharp knife or pizza cutter, slice each sheet into four equal squares. Leave one square on work surface and place remaining squares back in refrigerator until ready to use. Roll square into a 6-by-6-inch square. Spoon 3 separate tablespoons of processed sweet potato onto half of square in a triangle formation, leaving a ¾-inch border around the edge. Add 1 heaping tablespoon of onion-raisin mixture on top and spread to cover sweet potato; sprinkle with a few walnut pieces. Dip fingers in water and wet all four edges of pastry square; stretch pastry and fold over filling to form a triangle, pressing edges together to seal. Use a fork to firmly crimp edges and then transfer hand pie to a baking sheet. Repeat process with each remaining square. Brush hand pies all over with egg wash; using a thin knife, slice three small slits in center to vent. Bake until deep golden in color, 20 to 24 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside to cool slightly, 5 to 10 minutes.

Serve hot.

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