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Inspired Local Food Culture

/

january 2019

midwest

SAME

DELICIOUS

Eighth Annual

Innovators

, Industry

, Best

New Restaurants

Stars

, Rising

FEAST


“Four days tailor-made for festival lovers, documentary lovers, film lovers and anyone who likes to have a grand old time.” - Matt Holtzman,, K KCRW’s The Document

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Inspired Local Food Culture /

midwest

January

2019

Volume 9 / Issue 1 Vice President of Niche Publishing,

ART

Publisher of Feast Magazine

Art Director

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com

sales Director of Sales

Angie Henshaw, ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 Account Manager, ST. LOUIS REGION

Michele Russo, mrusso@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1297 Account Manager, Kansas City REGION

Briana Craemer, bcraemer@feastmagazine.com, 913.708.1283 special projects Editor

Kelly Glueck, kglueck@feastmagazine.com Paul Andrews, Zach Bauman, Angela Bond, Julia Calleo, Tessa Cooper, Ana Elliott, Travis Howard, Sean Locke, Jacklyn Meyer, Sam O'Keefe, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Spencer Pernikoff, Drew Piester, Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg, Christopher Smith, Starboard & Port Creative, Madison Stringfellow, Mabel Suen, Emily Teater, Aimee Whitmire

EDITORIAL

FEAST TV

Senior Editor

producer: Catherine Neville

Kim Cho

Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com

production partner: Tybee Studios

Managing Editor

Contact Us

Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124, 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com

Jenny Vergara

Distribution

St. Louis Contributing Editor

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Eric Freeman for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at efreeman@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Mabel Suen fact checker

Rose Hansen Proofreader

Erica Hunzinger

“Shooting portraits of Feast's Rising Stars is always one of my favorite assignments; I like being able to see who to be on the lookout for in the Kansas City culinary community. I really enjoy getting to help showcase the talent that we have here, and to get a little glimpse into their world. People doing what they love always makes for great shots." (Kansas City Tastemakers, p. 68)

Contributing Photographers

Contributing illustrator

Digital Editor

zach bauman Kansas City, Photographer

production designer

Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1244

Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com

contributors

starboard & port creative Springfield, Missouri, Photographers "We're a commercial photography studio based in downtown Springfield, Missouri, [so] we love working with the great restaurateurs in town to highlight the beverage and food scene. Rogan [Howitt] at The Golden Girl Rum Club has been creating beautiful drinks and dishes for years, and it's wonderful to get to showcase his work. We work with a wide range of clients and industries that take us across the country, but our foundation is simple: innovators perfecting our craft while creating remarkable images." (The Mix, p. 29)

Julia Calleo St. Louis, Writer & Photographer “When Feast asked me to shoot pancetta three ways, I thought to myself, 'How could I not? It’s my favorite things all wrapped into one!' The recipes are all easy and very affordable dishes that I currently serve in my household a few times a month. Swapping out your usual go-to bacon topping with pancetta will give any recipe a little facelift, and you barely have to lift a finger – my kind of meals." (One Ingredient Three Ways, p. 27)

Contributing Writers

Christy Augustin, Julia Calleo, Corin Cesaric, Tessa Cooper, Gabrielle DeMichele, Amanda Elliott, Ana Elliott, April Fleming, Natalie Gallagher, Hilary Hedges, Katherine Herrick, Rogan Howitt, Jessica Vaughn Martin, Justin Phelps, Lillian Stone, Jenn Tosatto, Shannon Weber

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2019 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

on the cover Donut from Caffeteria Modern Cafe & Marketplace in Kansas City by Anna Petrow; pasta from Sidebar in Columbia, Missouri, by Keith Borgmeyer; kebab from Greek Belly in Springfield, Missouri, by Ana Elliott; nigiri from Nippon Tei in Ballwin, Missouri, by J. Pollack Photography; cocktail from Barred Owl Butcher & Table in Columbia by Aaron Ottis; oyster from Yellowbelly in St. Louis by J. Pollack Photography; cream cheese cake with peppermint meringue, dark chocolate sauce and red velvet ice cream from Bluestem in Kansas City by Zach Bauman table of contents Go Out: Pressed in Columbia, Missouri, by Aaron Ottis; Stay In: Bolognese from Parker at the Fontaine in Kansas City by Angela Bond; Features: Charlie Martin and Morgaine Segura of Olive + Oak in Webster Groves, Missouri, by J. Pollack Photography

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Corin Cesaric Columbia, Missouri, Writer "I love Columbia. After living here for four years, I grew to really love the food, too: Uprise Bakery, Bangok Gardens and Café Poland are just a few of my must-haves. I was so excited when I heard about Park Restaurant & Bar opening up on the south side of town. I got to write about the brand-new restaurant and get the details on some of its mouthwatering eats and drinks. I love hearing how new restaurants come to fruition in smaller towns like Columbia, and what the owners hope to bring to the food scene. Plus, getting a sneak peek at the menu before it's available to the public isn’t so bad, either!" (Dine & Drink, p. 15)


Go Out

/ 13 /

DINE & DRINK Pressed, The Chocolate Pig, Foxtrot Coffee, XR, Four Strings, Park Restaurant and Bar, Silo Modern Farmhouse

/ 16 / one on one David Pruteanu of Little Danube / 17 / On TREND Biscuit concepts / 19 / SHOP HERE Leeway Butcher / 20 / one on one Pam Liberda of Waldo Thai Place / 21 / HOT BLOCKS North Village Arts District in Columbia, Missouri / 22 / one on one David Burke of Grand Tavern by David Burke / 23 / HOMETOWN HITS Old School Frozen Yogurt & Coffee Co., Honey Chile' Please, Mark Twain Dinette

Stay In

/ 25 / healthy appetite Escarole and roasted sunchoke salad with creamy dressing

Features

61

/ 27 / one ingredient tHREE ways Pancetta

tastemakers 2019 In our annual Tastemakers issue, we share stories about the men and women who cook, create and curate the region’s top culinary experiences. / 62 / ST. LOUIS

/ 29 / the mix Spiced Carrot Sour

/ 68 / KANSAS CITY

/ 31 / midwest made Kombucha

/ 74 / SPRINGFIELD, MO.

/ 32 / mystery shopper Pickled green peppercorns

/ 78 / COLUMBIA, MO.

/ 34 / one on one Jeff Stevens of Wellbeing Brewing Co. / 35 / the dish Bolognese from Parker at the Fontaine in Kansas City / 37 / sweet ideas Mango-coconut chia pudding / 39 / quick fix Pork and hominy stew

/ 6 /

In Every Issue from the PUBLISHER New year, new Feast

/ 8 / events

/ 40 / culinary library Brian Moxey of Sardella

/ 10 / feast tv Smoked

/ 41 / crash course Dutch ovens

/ 82 / back burner / j a nu a ry 2 019

5


Letter

from the

Publisher

N

ew year, new Feast! You may have noticed that Feast looks a bit different this month. What you’re holding in your hands is the result of months of work on the part of Feast‘s editorial and art teams, and we’re excited to share this revamped, re-envisioned Feast with you to kick off 2019.

redesigned the look and feel of the magazine: As you flip through our pages, you’ll notice new fonts and new layouts, all designed to make looking at our pages as much fun as digging into the stories.

Feast launched in the summer of 2010. The magazine has evolved and shifted over the years, but until today, we never really went back to the drawing board and changed the way that we deliver content to you, our hungry readers. We recently published our 100th issue, and that was the impetus to make us take a fresh look at the magazine. The most important thing that we do every month is develop stories that connect and inspire, so when we sat down to talk about how our content could improve, we focused on how people interact with food on an everyday basis. In the past, we divided the issue by dining and drinking or cooking and shopping, and really, a lot of those categories overlap. With our new approach, we've created new front-of-book sections that are focused on whether you’re going out (p. 13) or staying in (p. 25). Along with rethinking the way we organize our content, we wanted to increase the number of voices in the magazine. Woven into these new sections are insights along with tips and tricks from industry folks, and more recipes so you can roll up your sleeves and cook at home with local ingredients. We’ve also 6

feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 1 9

Also, I’d be remiss if I didn’t nod to the fact that this is our annual Tastemakers issue (p.61). In this edition, we celebrate the people and places making a mark on the industry: our region’s rising stars, industry innovators and best new restaurants.

In the barbecue episode of Feast TV, we hit a wide range of places dedicated to ‘cue, from a vegan barbecue food truck in Kansas City to Beast Craft BBQ Co. in Belleville, Illinois, which is helmed by David Sandusky, pictured here. Visit the Feast TV section of feastmagazine.com to watch the episode.

As we head into 2019 with a fresh perspective, we here at Feast are very grateful for the opportunity to do this work. I hope you enjoy our freshened up Feast and would love your feedback. Please feel free to reach out with any comments on our new approach. We are here to serve you, our readers, and I’d love to hear what you think! Until next time,

Catherine Neville

publisher@feastmagazine.com


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Fr om co ok in g cl as se s to be er fe st ival s, pl an th e m on th s ah ea d w it h fe as t

CALENDAR

KC | 1/11 - 1/20

STL | 2/8

2019 Kansas City Restaurant Week

Opera Theatre of Saint Louis’ 2019 Wine & Beer Tasting

Fri., Jan. 11 to Sun., Jan. 20; $15 and $33 per meal (either lunch or dinner); participating Kansas City-area restaurants; 816.691.3800; kcrestaurantweek.com

Dine out and do good with special multicourse menus during Kansas City Restaurant Week (KCRW), which features 10 days and two weekends of special-occasion, charity-driven dining in one of America’s best cities for food-lovers. More than 170 restaurants are participating this year; go online to see menus and make reservations.

Raise a glass in celebration of Opera Theatre of Saint Louis at the 2019 Wine & Beer Tasting. Held at the Sally S. Levy Opera Center in Webster Groves, guests will be able to sip and sample exquisite wine, extraordinary imports and microbrews, an impressive array of hors d'oeuvres and an enticing silent auction.

STL | 1/16

STL | 2/9

Schnucks Cooks: Pork and Hominy Stew

Science on Tap

Wed., Jan. 16, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road, St. Louis; 314.909.1704; nourish.schnucks.com/schnucks-cooking-school

In this class, you’ll learn how to make a colorful and rich salad inspired by the flavor of Mexican street corn. You’ll also learn how to make churros at home, as well as a simple yet satisfying dulce de leche ice cream.

STL | 1/27

Sat., Feb. 9, 7 to 10pm; $45 to $100; Saint Louis Science Center, 5050 Oakland Ave., Kings Oak, St. Louis; 314.289.4400; slsc.org/ontap

Join the Saint Louis Science Center on Sat., Feb. 9 for Science on Tap. Sample 100-plus beers, enjoy small plates and learn the science of beer. Upgrade to VIP to experience the new Guitar Exhibition guided by KSHE and KPNT radio hosts and a VIP lounge.

STL | 2/21

2019 Wolpertinger

Dessert First

Sun., Jan. 27, 1 to 5pm, 12pm VIP; $40 General

Thu., Feb. 21, 6 to 9pm; $175; The Chase Park Plaza Royal Sonesta, 212 Kingshighway Blvd., Central West End, St. Louis; 314.592.2320; girlscoutsem.org/ dessertfirst

Admission, $70 VIP; Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. Grove Brewery & Bierhall, 4465 Manchester Ave., Forest Park Southeast, St. Louis, urbanchestnut.com/wolpertinger

Wolpertinger, Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.'s eighth-anniversary festival, is back at The Grove Brewery & Bierhall on Sun., Jan. 27. This year’s fest will include special releases from UCBC and The U.R.B., beer from 40-plus local breweries, live music, food and a Wolpi costume contest. This year will also feature a prefest meet-and-greet VIP ticket that includes brunch and first entry to the festival.

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Fri., Feb. 8, 6:30 to 8:30pm; tickets starting at $75; Sally S. Levy Opera Center, 210 Hazel Ave., Webster Groves, Missouri; 314.963.4223, experienceopera.org/wineandbeertasting

feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 1 9

Now in its eighth year, Dessert First features tasty original desserts and a celebration of the extraordinary achievements and contributions of three Girl Scout supporters and two amazing Girl Scouts. The event begins with guests tasting original desserts made by local chefs, followed by a seated dinner. Each year, chefs take Girl Scouts’ famous cookies and transform them into mouthwatering desserts.


ConneCt with

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636-244-2378 Monday-Friday 9 AM-5 PM Saturday 9 AM-12 PM

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9


episode: smoked Check your local listings

to watch feast tv on these networks:

Barbecue is elemental. Take a tough cut of meat, cook it low and slow over smoldering embers for hours and serve it up with a tangy, vinegary sauce. That’s it, right? Actually, there’s a lot more to smoked food than that. Host Cat Neville’s first stop in this episode is at Beast Craft BBQ in Belleville, Illinois, where chef David Sandusky uses his fine-dining background to inform a creative approach to classic ‘cue. At Peaceful Pig in Kansas City, though, the approach is far from traditional. Jackfruit stands in for pork on sandwiches, and mushrooms take the place of beef for “burnt ends.” And at Burgers’ Smokehouse in California, Missouri, we get back to tradition. Here, meats are cured with salt and smoke, including country ham, ribs and brisket. Burgers’ sent Cat home with that famous country ham, and she’ll show you how to use it in a Southern-style spoonbread.

feast tv

is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors: 10

Missouri Wines supports the more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.

feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 1 9

Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. is dedicated to creating a memorable coffee experience for customers and guests via sustainable practices and education.

Ole Tyme Produce provides some of the finest produce in the St. Louis region, serving restaurants, hotels, food service and catering companies.

The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.


SAVE

DATE

for a sip

Wh Whiskey is key for the Winter

tasting events every friday

 More than 300 Whiskeys in Stock 10 Minutes from  Special Order Available downtown St. Louis  Serving St. Louis & Southern Illinois for 78 years 210 W. Main Street | Collinsville, IL 62234 | 618-344-4930 | deansliquor.com 

cask experience | madagascar experience

cms experience | coffee experience tickets available at: universe.com | slipping into darkness

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cheers to

2018

here’s to an even better

2019

12

feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 1 9


â–Ş KANSAS CITY

XR

Go Out DINE & DRINK / ON TREND / SHOP HERE / HOT BLOCKS / HOMETOWN HITS

Written by Jenny Vergara photography by anna petrow

Inside the stunning new Crossroads Hotel, XR is a stylish all-day dining and drinking destination. In the morning, stop by for a Messenger Coffee Co. coffee and return during happy hour for Italian spritz cocktails, wines by the glass and local beers, including a house pour brewed in collaboration with Double Shift Brewing Co. In the kitchen, executive chef Remy Ayesh is turning out delicious artisan pizzas and seasonal shared plates from a gorgeous blue-tiled Italian Acunto wood-burning oven. 2101 Central St., Kansas City, Missouri, crossroadshotelkc.com

In late November, Crossroads Hotel debuted a second dining concept, Lazia, an upscale Italian restaurant, also helmed by chef Remy Ayesh. Visit feastmagazine.com to learn more.

A menu of wood-fired Neapolitan pizza is available all day

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DINE & DRINK

/

ON TREND

/

SHOP HERE

/

HOT BLOCKS

/

HOMETOWN HITS

▼ ST. LOUIS

The Chocolate Pig Story and photography by Mabel Suen

The team behind 23 City Blocks Hospitality Group in St. Louis recently debuted The Chocolate Pig, a new modern eatery focused on locally inspired, nose-to-tail cooking. Highlights from the playful menu include a bacon flight with herbed white chocolate, featuring bold flavors such as beef-belly bacon with sweet soy, quick-pickled kimchi and sesame seeds, and the Milk & Cereal dessert, with malted milk ice cream, caramelized pork rinds, dulce de leche and caramelized bananas. 4220 Duncan Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, thechocolatepig.com

( Look for seasonal drinks like this spicy mocha with caramel ▶ POPLAR BLUFF, MO.

Foxtrot Coffee Written by Liz Miller / photography courtesy foxtrot coffee

At Foxtrot Coffee, the first dedicated coffee roaster and specialty coffee shop in Poplar Bluff, Missouri, pour overs, cold brew, espresso, Americanos, lattes, cappuccinos and caffe breves are just the beginning. For a real taste of Foxtrot's flavor, opt for a lavender-vanilla latte or seasonal offerings like the peppermint mocha or s’mores latte. 404 Vine St., Poplar Bluff, Missouri, foxtrotcoffeeco.com

▶ COLUMBIA, MO.

Pressed Written by Katherine Herrick photography by aaron ottis

Columbia, Missouri’s new rooftop bar, Pressed, brings a “before-and-after dinner” dining concept to town, as owner Travis Tucker puts it. The menu features 12 signature cocktails and an array of specialty hors d’oeuvres and desserts, making it the ideal stop for a pre-dinner drink or to close out your evening with a nightcap and something sweet. Sip the best-selling Bleu Rosemary Lemonade, with blueberry vodka, blueberry simple syrup, housemade lemonade, Riesling and fresh rosemary and lemon; Tucker recommends the edamame hummus, with charcoal-infused black toast for a unique, striking starter. 803 Walnut St., Columbia, Missouri, facebook.com/pressedcomo 14

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▼ ST. LOUIS

Four Strings Story and photography by Mabel Suen

Four Strings, a quirky new St. Louis watering hole, offers creative cocktails and a musical theme. The cozy corner bar features a collection of deconstructed violins on its royal blue walls and dedicated space for intimate live music. In addition to domestic and craft beer on tap and a few wines by the glass, cocktails include the Owl and Skull, a twist on a Blood & Sand, with Dewar’s Scotch, Luxardo Maraschino, sweet vermouth and orange juice.

Mongolian pork duo

1730 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, Missouri, facebook.com/fourstringssoulard

▲ LENEXA, KS.

Silo Modern Farmhouse Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by anna petrow

In November, Canyon Farms Golf Club opened Silo Modern Farmhouse in Lenexa, Kansas, serving comforting, farm-fresh food in an elegant and modern setting. Open to the public for lunch and dinner, Silo's menu features upscale fare from executive chef Laura Favela, including miso pan-seared salmon, housemade tagliatelle pasta with Berkshire pork ragu and cast-iron bistro steak and frites. Don’t miss the 32-layer Silo Chocolate Cake, a signature dessert created in honor of the old silo located out front. 17501 W. 87th St., Lenexa, Kansas, silocanyonfarms.com

▶ COLUMBIA, MO.

Park Restaurant and Bar Written by Corin Cesaric / photography by aaron ottis

Park Restaurant and Bar, a sleek new spot on the south side of Columbia, Missouri, opened last month, offering Asian-inspired fare made with local ingredients. Try the Patchwork Stack sandwich, with Patchwork Family Farms pork loin, applewood-smoked bacon, caramelized onion and white Cheddar topped with garlic aïoli and Korean barbecue sauce. The whiskey-heavy drink menu also features more than a dozen beers on tap and infused cocktails. 4380 Nocona Parkway, Columbia, Missouri, dineatpark.com / j a nu a ry 2 019

15


ozark, mo.

ONE on

with

David Pruteanu /

chef-owner, Little Danube Why did you focus on family recipes at Little Danube? The recipes I’m serving are mainly what I remember my mother cooking. She passed away three years ago, and this kind of connects me with her. I do it the way my family did it. Every Romanian makes it a little differently: However many houses there are, that’s how many styles there are to make it.

Written by liz miller photography by travis howard

For chef David Pruteanu, Little Danube, his restaurant in Ozark,

Tell us about your menu. I had been cooking French food for 12 years [before opening Little Danube, and] this is the food I missed. I do some things very traditionally, but others are more unexpected. The Balkan burger, for example, is inspired by ćevapi kebabs; I use a ćevapi sausage recipe as a model for the patty and I get Bosnian [somun] bread [for the buns]. And then it’s served with Amish farmer’s cheese and ajvar [a roasted red pepper condiment]. I make as much in-house as I can; it’s mainly just me in the kitchen.

Missouri, is deeply rooted in family history. Thirty-two years ago, Pruteanu’s father, Troyan, escaped Communist Romania into what was then Yugoslavia across the Danube River. Pruteanu, the youngest of 13 children, was only a few weeks old when his father made the journey. In 1987, Troyan moved to

What’s next for Little Danube? We’re thinking about adding a food truck in the next few months so that I can share some of the dishes we do at the restaurant in Springfield. That’s why we’re offering some new specials, too, like kolache and bierocks – to see how people will take it. We’re looking for one-handed meals, food that are grab-and-go.

Union, Missouri, and his late wife, Viorica, and their children followed in 1990. Although Pruteanu’s roots are in his family’s native Suceava, Romania, his childhood was spent in Missouri; he remembers summer jobs picking grapes at wineries in

What’s been the most rewarding part so far? We’re getting a lot of good reviews. People have said, “Wow, I have family or ancestors who came from Romania or that general area, and this is just like Grandma made – or better!” It’s just good comfort food. I wasn’t expecting it to be this busy, but I think the area was hungry for something different.

nearby Marthasville, and back at home, watching his mother prepare a range of Eastern European dishes. At Little Danube, which opened last July, that’s exactly what's inspiring Pruteanu’s cooking today.

st - t ry di

sh

mu

es

at Little Danube

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519 N. 21st St., Ozark, Missouri, facebook.com/littledanube

feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 1 9

Hungarian-inspired lángos top deep-fried dough with sweet or savory ingredients. At Little Danube, toppings range from tarte flambée-inspired to smoked salmon with salmon caviar, dill, chives, lemon, sour cream and olive oil.

Stuffed with rice, pork and herbs, Romanian-style sarmale cabbage rolls are served with sour cream on the side.

Chicken paprikash plates Hungarian-style braised chicken thighs over herbed spätzle.

The kielbasa klobásník wraps Polish sausage in housemade dough, served with stone-ground mustard, pickled red onion and wax beans.


DINE & DRINK

/

ON TREND

/

SHOP HERE

/

HOT BLOCKS

/

HOMETOWN HITS

▼ ST. LOUIS

We love biscuits and gravy as much as the next person, but the humble biscuit is capable of so much more. These chefs agree – so much so that they’ve made flaky buttermilk biscuits the centerpiece of their menus. -HEATHER RISKE

When diners at Red Oak Biscuits told Derek Schulze they wanted more biscuits on the menu, he listened – and rebuilt the concept around those biscuits. At the Cherokee Street restaurant, buttermilk drop biscuits come topped with everything from scrambled eggs and bacon to old-fashioned apple cobbler. The Lit Biscuit, a fan favorite, is piled high with Buffalo-slathered pulled chicken, ranch dressing and Cheddar, with a touch of heat from some spicy potato chips layered on top. 2926 Cherokee St., St. Louis, Missouri, redoakbiscuits.com photo by emily teater

The Lit Biscuit

▲ INDEPENDENCE, MO. The Distrikt Biskuit House’s pop ups were so popular – and often sold out so quickly – that a permanent location seemed guaranteed. Now, inside the Adam’s Mark Hotel in Independence, Missouri, owner Guroux Khalifah serves scratch-made buttermilk biscuit sandwiches alongside breakfast and brunch platters. The standout Distrikt Biskuit Royale sandwich features crunchy buttermilk fried chicken with a fluffy folded egg, crispy beef bacon and colby Jack. 9103 E. 39th St., Independence, Missouri, distriktbiskuit.com photo by cHRISTOPHER SMITH

▲ COLUMBIA, MO. Bryan Maness draws on his family roots at Ozark Mountain Biscuit Co. food truck, which takes inspiration from his childhood growing up in the Ozarks. Lucky for us, his family passed down some pretty delicious recipes, including thick sawmill gravy, fried pimento cheese and cornbread made in a cast-iron skillet. Get a true taste of Maness’ roots with the Cajun Catfish, a biscuit loaded with a crispy fried catfish fillet, house kale slaw, pickled red onions and remoulade. ozarkmountainbiscuits.com photo by Sam O’Keefe

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Hours:

mon-fri: 10:30am - 8:00pm sat: 11:30am - 7:00pm 11982 Dorsett Rd. | 314.942.2300 | ddmaustl.com

NOODLE HOUSE SPECIALIZING IN RAMEN AND PHO 11423 Olive Blvd nudohousestl.com @NudohouseSTL Opening Spring 2019 6105-A Delmar Blvd 8396 Musick Memorial Dr maileestl.com @MaiLeeSTL

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feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 1 9


DINE & DRINK

/

ON TREND

/

SHOP HERE

/

HOT BLOCKS

/

HOMETOWN HITS

◀ LAWRENCE, KS.

Leeway Butcher Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by Paul andrews

Lee Meisel and his wife, K, opened Leeway Franks three years ago in Lawrence, Kansas, selling housemade sausages and tasty sandwiches. In December, they opened Leeway Butcher next door, selling wholesale sausage to local restaurants and stocking glass cases filled with fan favorites. Look for sausages in seasonal flavors in addition to the traditional currywurst, knockwurst, Polish sausage and breakfast sausage. Pork, poultry, lamb, goat and rabbit are all sourced from surrounding farms and ranches and kept whole so that they can be cut to a customer’s specifications. Try the butcher’s bundles, featuring cuts hand-picked by Meisel with instructions on how to prepare them at home.

l’

Le

e

s

935 Iowa St., Ste. 9, Lawrence, Kansas, leewayfranks.com

M eise

top 3 Butcher’s beef Cuts Like many butchers, Meisel has a soft spot for less-common cuts. At home, he favors tougher ones with a big, beefy flavor that shine through with either a quick sear or a long, slow braise instead of tender, more expensive cuts.

1

2

Neck and Shanks

Sirloin Flap or Bavette

“As the weather gets colder, I want to cook shanks low and slow in a rich red-wine braise on the stovetop, or throw necks in a pot with water and blanch them for a light, flavorful soup. Give me all the necks and shanks you have – they have incredible flavor.”

“Most people have heard of flank or skirt steak; just as flavorful but lesser known is the sirloin flap, also called the bavette. Slice this cut up and sear it off in a hot pan for a delicious stir-fry, or make a quick-cooking Korean barbecue.”

3 Sirloin "Heart" or center-cut top sirloin “You’ll need to ask your butcher to clean up the 'heart' of the sirloin, removing the extra fat and muscle, but it’s worth it, as this can be one of the most tender cuts of sirloin. Season and sear it like a steak in a pan on medium-high heat, flipping every 30 seconds or so to lock in juices.”

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19


kansas city

ONE on

with

Pam Liberda /

chef-owner, Waldo Thai Place Tell us about your culinary background. I never thought I would be cooking for a living. I was a smart kid, and so my parents made sure I went to school for medicine in Thailand. I wanted to make them proud, so I studied hard and graduated with a nursing degree. I [later] moved to the United States and met [my now-husband] Ted when we were both working at his mother’s restaurant. That’s when I chose to walk away from a career in medicine for love – love for my husband, my children, my family and sharing my food.

Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by zach bauman

Waldo Thai Place opened in Kansas City last summer, representing a new iteration of the Bangkok- and Northeastern-style Thai cuisine Ann Liberda first brought to the area at the original Thai Place in 1991. Now, her daughter-in-law, Pam Liberda, is serving dishes from her native northern Thailand, where the cuisine is known for its fresh herbaceous notes.

Why did you decide to nod to the original Thai Place with the restaurant's name? When we decided to open a new restaurant, we thought about giving it a new name, but Thai Place is so recognizable in Kansas City. We liked the idea of taking our established family brand and reinventing it; in our minds this is the next generation of Thai Place.

Liberda's menu is complemented by an impressive craft cocktail program from bar manager Darrell Loo.

What’s the response been like so far? We’ve slowly started to find a new fan base for our food here [in Waldo]. In America, most Thai food falls into a common menu, but there are big differences in regional cuisines, and that’s what we’re trying to help people understand with our food, [such as] the gaeng om nua e-sarn, a northeastern-style beef stew with lemongrass, dill, seasonal vegetables and jasmine rice. Some people have come in expecting this to be the same menu that we served [at Thai Place] in Westport – which represented cuisine from a totally different region of Thailand – which has been disappointing for some. If I have the ingredients to make an old Thai Place dish, I will do it for them. I ultimately want my guests to be happy and enjoy their experience.

Kow Soi Nua Northern-style beef curry with egg noodles, scallions, shallots, lime and fresh cilantro

8431 Wornall Road, Kansas City, Missouri, facebook.com/waldothai

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3

/ 1 / A must-have for

a comforting bowl of soup, tom yum paste features a combination of lemongrass, kaffir lime leaf, galangal and chile paste.

/ 2 / jaew sauce

/ 3/ For a northern Thai snack,

is a smoky miang kam sauce is essential Northeastern-style for the mini wraps of the dipping sauce made same name; expect a complex, with dried chile layered flavor of shrimp paste, powder and toasted ginger, galangal, lemongrass, rice powder. coconut, palm sugar and peanut.


DINE & DRINK

/

ON TREND

/

SHOP HERE

/

HOT BLOCKS

/

HOMETOWN HITS

1. CAFE BERLIN

When it comes to good food and drink in downtown Columbia, Missouri, bustling Ninth Street tends to get all the glory.

220 N. 10th St., cafeberlincomo.com

But tucked away in the North Village Arts District, a 150 artists, performers and musicians, you’ll also find some music- and art-loving restaurants, bakeries and coffee shops.

RANGE FREE “For people who have food allergies, eating out can be a nightmare. Enter Anna Meyer, food wizard. She somehow manages to take all the food allergens out and leave the texture and flavor in. I have talked to moms whose kids can finally enjoy birthday cakes [thanks to Meyer]; I think cake decorating is her super power."

4. GOOD FOOD CO.

-HEATHER RISKE

3.

loves

The Butch Jones

self-described “bohemian paradise” that's home to more than

2.

chef-owner, Main Squeeze

photo by KEITH BORGMEYER

COLUMBIA, MO.

Columbia residents have long known that the best days start with breakfast or brunch at Cafe Berlin. The venerable café specializes in creative made-from-scratch fare highlighting local, organic ingredients; offerings run the gamut from classic (eggs Benedict, French toast and waffles) to imaginative (the Butch Jones features bacon and eggs wrapped in a giant pancake and topped with apples and andouille sausage). Now, the best days can end at Cafe Berlin, too – a few years ago, the café built a bar and stage inside to host live music at night.

Leigh Lockhart

Range Free is changing the game for Columbia diners. It’s the city’s first and only allergen-free bakery and café, so the menu is totally free of wheat, peanuts, tree nuts, fish and shellfish, and the kitchen can also prepare items without eggs, dairy and soy. Owner Anna Meyer doesn’t let those restrictions limit her creativity, though; she allows diners to safely enjoy dishes they may have previously had to cut out of their diet, like tomato-free marinara sauce or gluten-free oat flour waffles.

Sweets-lovers will find plenty to savor at Good Food Co., the bake shop opened last year by Jill Rostine (an alum of Uprise Bakery, Bleu and Sycamore, to name a few). The shop serves double duty as a morning bakery and evening dessert bar. Stop by early for raspberry-white chocolate scones, fig-blue cheese-walnut brioche and strawberry-rhubarb-oatmeal muffins, or visit after dark for restaurant-style desserts like maple-bacon bread pudding, Black Forest trifles and her signature Goatsbeard Farm goat cheese cheesecake with cherry compote (made with cherries from Missouri Highland Farm) and a housemade graham cracker crust.

110 Orr St., #101, range-free.com

1023 E. Walnut St., Ste. 7, goodfoodcomo.com

2. RANGE FREE

4.

3. FRETBOARD COFFEE 5. PEPE’S OF COLUMBIA

photography by aaron ottis

It won’t take you long to learn the inspiration behind Fretboard Coffee: Owner (and bassist and guitarist) Dave Elman loves to “rock and roast.” The coffee’s packaging even lists what song was playing when each bag of ethically sourced, chemical-free beans was roasted. Stop into the café for a cranberry-thyme latte, siphon-pot hand-brew or a cup of cold brew, which, on certain evenings, can be enjoyed while listening to live music, naturally.

It would be easy to miss Pepe’s of Columbia – the restaurant is tucked inside Rose Music Hall – but the food here is just as fun as the live music. In a small shotgun kitchen inside the venue, owner Pepe Perez prepares made-to-order tacos, quesadillas, nachos, tamales and perfectly creamy queso. Stop by on select weekends to find brunch specials like ceviche tostadas and chorizo-egg breakfast burritos. Not attending a show? Order your tacos to go from the takeout window near the main entrance.

1013 E. Walnut St., fretboardcoffee.com

1013 Park Ave., rosemusichall.com/food / j a nu a ry 2 019

21


st. louis

ONE on

with

David Burke /

chef, grand tavern by david burke david burke's

Written by Heather Riske / photography by rolf ringwald

Signature Dishes

How do you elevate St. Louis’ most iconic dessert and still make it approachable for the scores of diners who grew up eating it? If you’re celebrity chef David Burke, you add a dash of whimsy. At the new Grand Tavern by David Burke , crispy fried donuts are stuffed with gooey butter cake, topped with airy cotton candy and served with a boat of warm gooey butter cake sauce. #2 Hospitality, which also owns Tavern 62 by David Burke in New York City and BLT Prime by David Burke in Washington, D.C., opened the restaurant on the ground floor of the Angad Arts Hotel (where you can book a room based on color) in Midtown St. Louis this past November. At the ambitious, swanky new concept, he says his decades of experience in the restaurant industry have come to a head.

clothesline bacon

Presentation is key with this trademark dish, which features three strips of thick-cut bacon hanging on a clothesline with fresh rosemary clipped on the side. Need more of a show? The dish is torched tableside.

dry-aged steaks

Burke’s dry-aging process was such a good idea, it won him a U.S. patent. Choose from an 18-ounce bone-in KC sirloin or a 34-ounce porterhouse, aged in a room lined with pink Himalayan salt for up to 100 days; both arrive at the table served on massive salt bricks.

How does Grand Tavern differ from your other restaurants? It’s kind of a combination of what works for some of my other restaurants: some fine-dining elements, some steakhouse elements, some whimsical elements. It’s not a steakhouse and it’s not a burger joint; the comfort level and the finesse level are meeting at the same place. Where fine dining is too precious and a bistro is too casual, I think we fit in the spot in between that. You’re known for a whimsical approach to cooking. What does that look like at Grand Tavern? We have items that are whimsical in the form of presentation and also in the

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combination of ingredients. There’s a crab-cake Benedict made with Ritz crackers, crabmeat, chorizo and quail eggs. The Emotional Lobster Dumplings are a twist on my Angry Lobster, inspired by lobster arrabiata; we changed the name to fit the theme of the hotel and because the dish is a little less spicy. Tell us how you’re playing around with some of St. Louis’ most famous dishes. We made gooey butter donuts as a nod. I don’t want to just put another gooey butter cake on the menu – although I love it. Instead, I thought that filling belonged in a donut. Toasted ravioli is the type of dish that people are set in their

ways of doing, but we want to play around with it and try something unique. From an outsider looking in, maybe there’s a twist that makes sense. And that’s part of what makes cooking so unique; everyone has their different takes on things. We did a seasonal [toasted ravioli] with Brussels sprouts, pumpkin and chorizo and I’ve got to tell you, it was really good. It’s similar to the cheesecake pops I [first] made 30 years ago – it’s New York cheesecake, but done in a way that you can share, and it also elevates it to a more whimsical presentation. 626 N. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri, grandtavernstl.com

cheesecake lollipops

Too full for dessert? That’s the idea behind Burke’s famous cheesecake lollipops, which turn the dish into bite-sized portions. Served in a tree of sorts, the pops come in flavors like chocolate, strawberry and red velvet.


DINE & DRINK

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ON TREND

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These three delicious destinations are under the radar – but should be on yours.

SHOP HERE

/

HOT BLOCKS

/

HOMETOWN HITS

▼ WAYNESVILLE, MO.

Honey Chile’ Please

Kimsha Rosensteel grew up learning to cook from her mother and grandmother and later went on to cook in a military dining facility for 15 years. In 2016, she put that lifetime of experience to work by opening Honey Chile’ Please in Waynesville, Missouri. The former military brat and current military wife is at home serving the many U.S. Army personnel and their families from nearby Fort Leonard Wood. Her blackberry fried chicken, for

WRITTEN BY NANCY STILES

example, has been a big hit. Other favorites on the ever-changing menu include Krispy Kreme burgers, gumbo fries, étouffée, oxtail with rice, Cajun biscuits and gravy, and red velvet waffles with fried chicken. Customers also love her decadent desserts, including lavender-peach cake and buttermilk pie. 1100 Old Historic Route 66, Waynesville, Missouri, facebook.com/honeychileplease

Blackberry fried chicken ▲ SWEET SPRINGS, MO.

Old School Frozen Yogurt & Coffee Co. The motto of Old School Frozen Yogurt & Coffee Co. in Sweet Springs, Missouri, is “Pursuing excellence in all things.” The shop takes that to heart, roasting its own coffee and even milling wheat into flour on-site for fresh-baked goods. The coffee shop, housed in a former schoolhouse, offers a rotating seasonal bakery menu, including its famous cinnamon rolls, which come topped with something more akin to frosting than a glaze. Another draw is the frozen yogurt: The machines spin vanilla, chocolate and strawberry, plus non-dairy pomegranate-raspberry sorbet, along with two seasonal options. On the coffee menu, locals and travelers alike will find specialty drinks including Americanos, lattes, espresso, pour overs and more. 308 S. Locust St., Sweet Springs, Missouri, theoldschoolcoffeeco.com photo courtesy old school frozen yogurt & Coffee co.

Jalapeño-strawberry lemonade Visit feastmagaz ine.com to learn mor e about the tasty ea ts at these three restau rants. ◀ HANNIBAL, MO.

Mark Twain Dinette Kenna Bogue gets a lot of questions about horseshoes and Maid-Rite loose meat. As general manager of Mark Twain Dinette in Hannibal, Missouri, Bogue often meets tourists who aren't familiar with these regional dishes. The Dinette Horseshoe, for example, is a combination of the restaurant's most popular items: Maid-Rite loose meat on Texas toast topped with the diner’s famous onion rings, cheese sauce and chile-ranch sauce. The diner was first opened in 1942 by M.E. Pennewell with a 13-seat steel counter; Bogue’s grandfather, John, began managing it

in 1976 and bought it in 1985. Bogue’s father, Jody, then bought the restaurant in 2015. Eventually, Bogue plans to purchase it from her father and continue the tradition. After more than 70 years of expansion, the diner can now seat around 150 inside, plus 70 on the patio. Bogue's menu is inspired by her travels, Instagram and food magazines; one standout dish is the Steampunk Burger, with herbed cream cheese and housemade balsamic-onion-bacon jam on a brioche bun. 400 N. Third St., Hannibal, Missouri, marktwaindinette.com photo courtesy mark twain dinette

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SPONSORED CONTENT BY

CHICKEN TORTILLA SOUP Total Time: 25 min Serves: 8

2 tbsp. olive oil 1/2 onion, diced 3 garlic cloves, minced 1/2 tsp. cumin 1/2 tsp. smoked paprika 1/2 tsp. chili powder 1/2 tsp. hot sauce (optional) 4 cups low sodium chicken broth 1 can (15.5 oz.) no salt added fire-roasted tomatoes (not drained) 1 can (15.5 oz.) reduced sodium black beans, drained and rinsed 1 cup frozen corn 2 cups shredded chicken Juice from 1/2 lime 1/2 cup plain Greek yogurt Salt and pepper to taste GARNISHES (OPTIONAL): Chopped cilantro Avocado slices Tortilla strips or crushed tortilla chips DIRECTIONS: 1. Over medium high heat, add oil to bottom of stock pot or Dutch oven, and then add onion and garlic. Cook over medium heat until translucent and fragrant. Add cumin, paprika, chili powder and hot sauce. 2. Slowly add in chicken broth, tomatoes, black beans, corn and shredded chicken. Bring to a simmer and cook 10 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Take off the heat and stir in lime juice and sour cream. 3. Divide between bowls and garnish with cilantro, avocado and tortilla strips, if desired. %PG

feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 1 9

KARA BEHLKE

DIRECTOR HEALTH AND WELLNESS PHOTOS PROVIDED BY SCHNUCKS

Looking to get your eating back on track after the holidays? Getting healthy meals on the table is no easy feat. Whether your health goal is to eat out less, shop for more wholesome foods, shed a few pounds or feel your best, start small, as one good decision tends to lead to another. Eating healthy isn’t an all-or-nothing approach, the key is trying to find balance, not perfection. Schnucks is here to help you on your pursuit of wellness. Each month we will be providing tips to help you eat “a little better.” Eat in. Everything you eat and drink over time can affect how you feel. And how you feel affects every aspect of your life. When you prepare your own meals, you can feel good about what is going into your body. You get to choose the ingredients, control the portion size and feel good about the meals you put on the table. Create a plan. Planning your meals in advance can help you stick to your wellness goals, not to mention it can be a big timesaver. This month at Schnucks, grab a copy of Schnucks Simply Slim magazine and browse our dietitian-approved recipes to prepare for the entire week. We’ve simplified your hunt for healthier foods and made sure our recipes were quick, tasty and convenient to fit your busy schedule. Make it tasty. Food doesn’t nourish us unless we eat it, so regardless of how amazing a foods’ nutritional profile, if it doesn’t taste good, you’re not going to eat it. Food is meant to be enjoyed, it brings people together and fuels our day. One of my biggest comforts is a meal made with care and shared with love. I hope you find comfort in our Chicken Tortilla Soup and feel a sense of accomplishment knowing you’re heading down the path to being a little more healthy-ish.


Stay In HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

I have long been enamored with sunchokes, also known as Jerusalem artichokes, and winter is their peak season. The starchy tuber shares qualities with hearty vegetables like turnips and potatoes. They’re delicious just thinly sliced and served raw, but my favorite preparation is roasting them, as their natural sweetness becomes more prominent with caramelization. Most grocery stores carry sunchokes in season; if you don’t see them in the produce section, ask your produce manager to order them. Written by Amanda Elliott / Photography by Drew Piester

This light and creamy dressing is the perfect foil for slightly bitter escarole.

Escarole and Roasted Sunchoke Salad With Creamy Dressing Serves 4 to 6 1 2 2 1 1 ¼ 2 1 1 ½

lb sunchokes, scrubbed Tbsp olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste cloves garlic, minced Tbsp poppy seeds Tbsp lemon zest cup crème fraîche Tbsp fresh lemon juice tsp honey small head escarole, rinsed, tough outer green leaves removed and remaining leaves torn into bite-sized pieces cup shaved Pecorino cheese

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 375°F.

In a large mixing bowl, combine sunchokes with olive oil, salt and pepper. Transfer to a baking sheet and roast until soft and caramelized, approximately 45 to 50 minutes. Let rest for 15 minutes. Using the back of a spoon, smash rested sunchokes into bite-sized pieces. In a medium mixing bowl, combine next 6 ingredients, season with salt and pepper to taste and stir well. In a large serving bowl, add escarole, smashed sunchokes and cheese and toss with dressing. Serve.

Visit feastmagaz ine.com for more he althy recipe s to start the new year off righ t.

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SUNDAY BRUNCH BUFFET at America’s Largest Hofbräuhaus

Carving Station, Made-to-order Omelets, German Favorites, Breakfast Fare and More

10 A.M. – 2 P.M. Includes a Complimentary Beermosa or Mimosa

HofbrauhausStLouis.com/brunch AN AUTHENTIC GERMAN BREWERY & RESTAURANT • Craft Beer Brewed on Site • Extensive Bavarian Menu • Live Entertainment Every Day • Happy Hour 4 - 6 p.m., Mon. - Fri. Less Than 15 Minutes from Downtown St. Louis

123 Saint Eugene Drive, Belleville, IL Across from the Shrine of Our Lady of the Snows

HofbrauhausStLouis.com (618) 800-BEER

TASTY

AS CLUCK

9 SOUTH VANDEVENTER DINE-IN, TAKEOUT OR DELIVERY MON-SAT 11AM-9PM 26

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HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Serves 4

Egg and Pancetta Hash ½ lb pancetta, finely diced 1 yellow onion, finely diced 4 Yukon gold potatoes, ¼-inch dice 2 sweet potatoes, ½-inch dice 4 eggs 2 Tbsp parsley, freshly chopped kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Pancetta is pork belly cured with salt, pepper and sometimes other spices. A staple in Italian cooking, it's salty and fatty like bacon without the smoky flavor.

Upgrade this healthy breakfast bowl by adding hot sauce and sour cream.

Recipes and photography by Julia Calleo

/ preparation / In a large skillet over medium heat, add pancetta and fry until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve fat. In the same skillet, add onion and sauté for 5 minutes. Add potatoes, cover and cook for 12 minutes, stirring often, until crisp. Transfer to a bowl, add pancetta and toss; set aside. In the same skillet, fry eggs until whites are set. Divide pancetta-potato mix between 4 ramekins; top each with an egg. Top with parsley, season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.

Kale, Pear and Pancetta Salad ½ lb pancetta, cut into ¼-inch chunks 1 head kale, washed, sliced into ¼-inch wide strips bottled honey-Dijon salad dressing, to taste 2 red pears, cut into ¹⁄₈-inch slices ½ cup blue cheese crumbles ¼ cup roasted pecans, finely chopped kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Visit feastmagazine.com for a recipe for homemade honey-Dijon salad dressing.

/ preparation / In a small skillet over medium heat, add pancetta and fry until crisp. Set aside. In a large bowl, add kale and just enough dressing to cover leaves; massage dressing into lettuce for 1 to 2 minutes. Add all remaining ingredients and toss to combine. Add additional dressing to taste and season with salt and pepper to taste; serve.

Bucatini Carbonara with Pancetta Keep in mind that pancetta can be very salty, so use additional salt sparingly.

1 Tbsp plus 1 tsp olive oil, divided 3 shallots, finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup fresh or frozen peas 1 tsp fresh thyme, finely chopped ½ lb pancetta, cut into ½-inch pieces and fried until crisp 1 lb cooked bucatini pasta (reserve 1 cup pasta water) 4 egg yolks 1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice, plus 2 tsp lemon zest, divided ²⁄₃ cup shaved or grated Parmesan, divided kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Linguini, spaghetti or any

pair with: Norton

PA I R IT!

The acidity of Norton cuts through the saltiness of the pancetta, while smoky notes complement the flavor. Try White Mule Winery's Norton, where flavors of black cherry and tobacco and medium tannins offer a nice balance to the rich pancetta. whitemulewinery.com -Hilary Hedges

other ribbon-cut pasta will do just fine here.

/ preparation / In a large skillet over medium heat, heat 1 teaspoon oil; add shallots and garlic and cook until shallots are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add peas and cook for 5 minutes more. Add thyme and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds more. Turn off heat but keep skillet on hot burner; add pancetta. Add cooked pasta, reserved pasta water and 1 tablespoon oil and toss. Remove skillet from burner and add egg yolks, lemon juice and half of Parmesan and toss until a shiny, smooth sauce forms. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Top with lemon zest and remaining Parmesan; serve.

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27


Peruvian Dining

in SpringField MO

Don’t miss a

single serving!

DUTCH FUSION

Subscribe to Feast’s weekly enewsletter for delicious content covering KC, STL and mid-MO dining. 334 E Commercial St.,Springfield, MO 417.344.0085 | vangoghseeterie.com

234 East Commercial St, Springfield, MO 417.868.8088 | www.cafecusco.com

FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978! Do your body and taste buds a favor and order fresh oysters • Low in fat • High in protein • Rich in minerals and vitamins

314-993-4844 8660 Olive in U City bobsseafoodstl.com

Visit

feastmagazine.com to subscribe and you’ll get fresh content delivered to your inbox every Tuesday!

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HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Spiced Carrot Sour Serves 1

Orgeat syrup (pronounced or-zhat) is made of almonds, sugar and orange flower. In cocktails, it acts as a sweetener and adds body; you can find it in the mixers section of most liquor stores.

Spiced Carrot Purée (Yields 1 cup) ½ lb carrots, trimmed olive oil spray ½ tsp ground cloves ½ tsp ground ginger ½ tsp ground cinnamon 2 Tbsp granulated sugar 1 pinch salt Spiced Carrot Sour 1½ oz Japanese whisky 1½ oz spiced carrot purée (recipe below) ¾ oz fresh lemon juice ½ oz orgeat syrup 2 dashes Angostura bitters whole nutmeg, for garnish dried lemon wheel, for garnish / preparation – spiced carrot purée / Preheat oven to 350°F. On a sheet pan, spread out carrots and lightly spray with olive oil. Roast in oven until tender, 20 minutes. Remove and allow to cool. Cut into ½-inch pieces. In the bowl of a food processor or a blender, combine roasted carrots with remaining ingredients and blend until smooth. Add 2 tablespoons water if needed; consistency should be wet, but not runny. / preparation – spiced carrot sour / In a cocktail shaker, combine all ingredients except garnishes and fill with ice. Shake vigorously and strain into a cocktail glass. Grate a little fresh nutmeg over top, garnish with dried lemon wheel and serve.

Roasting carrots with classic baking spices adds a natural, earthy sweetness, although in a pinch, fresh carrot juice can be substituted.

Try these Japanese Whiskys suntory toki: Light and perfect for mixing, big fresh-fruit notes such as pear and apple create a bright, juicy partnership in this winter sour-style cocktail.

/1 /

The new year is a time to restart, reflect and set goals for health and prosperity. Unless your resolution is to swear off spirits in general, there’s no reason to cut a good cocktail out of the mix. Bright and vegetal in profile, this Spiced Carrot Sour is backed by winter spices, almond and a light-bodied Japanese whisky. Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt / Photograph by Starboard & Port Creative

/ 2 / mars shinshu iwai: This bourbon-barreled American-style Japanese whisky is very affordable; vanilla and ginger accentuate the spice notes of the carrot in this cocktail.

nikka coffey malt whisky: Heavy notes of pepper and baking spice make this winter-style whisky a great option to add even more depth to this versatile drink.

/ 3/

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CELEBRATING KANSAS CIT Y AND GOOD OLD FASHIONED MIDWEST COOKING

Mo n d a y -Fr i d a y S e r v i n g : Br e a k f a s t 7 -1 1 a m Lu n c h 1 1 a m -3 p m Ha p p y Ho u r 3 - 6 p m Di n n e r b e g i n n i n g a t 5 p m n i g h t l y Sa t u r d a y & Su n d a y Br u n c h 9 : 3 0 a m -3 p m No w Bo o k i n g Pr i v a t e Di n i n g & Ca t e r i n g Or d e r To - Go , Wh o l e Pi e s , & Ba ke s h o p Sp e c i a l t i e s

F UYU P ERSIMMONS AND Q UINCE F RUIT

4646 J C Nichols Pkwy Kansas City, MO (816) 541-3382 www.r yekc.com Complementar y Garage Parking or Valet Optional

*Visit our original location Rye Leawood at 10551 Mission Rd. Leawood, KS 66206 (913) 642-5800

LOCAL I AUTHENTIC I FAM ILY www.oletyme.com

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SERVING RESTAURANTS since 1973


HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Kombucha

Curtis Marshall

co-owner, Tie & Timber Beer Co.

Grabbing a bottle of locally made, effervescent kombucha – flavored fermented tea – is easier than ever. Written by Nancy Stiles / photo by julia calleo

1

2

St. Louis' Companion Kombucha steeps their fermented tea with ingredients that are already beneficial on their own, like lavender flowers and ginger, or adds juices like elderberry, pomegranate and apple-cinnamon. Companion is available at more than 100 area grocery stores and restaurants. drinkcomkom.com

“Spring Branch Kombucha enhances

3

Spring Branch Kombucha is the first kombucha brewery in Springfield, Missouri, and it lives up to its motto: bold flavor brewed in the heart of the Ozarks. You can find Spring Branch on tap at several restaurants around town, as well as select Mama Jean’s Natural Markets. Grab a growler and fill up with flavors like French oak coffee, raspberry-basil and blueberry-thyme. springbranchkombucha.com

our menu at Tie & Timber and gives our customers an excellent nonalcoholic photo by ana elliott

In North Kansas City, Missouri, The Brewkery gained a following at farmers’ markets before opening a taproom in February 2018. Pick up its bottled Lucky Elixir kombucha in flavors such as ginger-lime, Hop’d Peach and mango, fill a growler or order a draft flight of rotating ‘booch, like cucumber-hibiscus, strawberry-rhubarb and passion fruit. brewkery.com

spring branch

alternative. Hands down my favorite kombucha is Lemon Hops. I'm an IPA guy in the beer world, and Lemon Hops is dry-hopped with Mosaic and Citra hops – two of my favorite varieties.” 4

Scoby Masters’ Kombucha Tea-Biotics is on draft all over the Kansas City area, but you can also buy bottles in more than 200 retail locations. Made with organic ingredients, we like the turmeric root-lime, hibiscus-watermelon and elderberry-mango. tea-biotics.com

5

Columbia, Missouri’s DrinKraft is available on draft in The Tasting Cafe or in bottles at Hy-Vee on Broadway and both locations of Clovers Natural Market. DrinKraft’s offerings vary by season; look for grapefruit, rosemary-beet and elderberry-hibiscus this month. drinkraft.com

Thirsty for m ore kombucha? Visit feastmagaz ine.com to learn abou t even more lo cal producers.

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HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Plan to pick a pint (or peck) of pickled green peppercorns, pronto.

Pickled Green Peppercorns Written by Shannon Weber / photography by Jennifer Silverberg

What Is It? Green peppercorns are the fruit of the piper nigrum vine, and are identical to black peppercorns; the difference is all preparation. Peppercorns grow in long, thin fingers, clustered like shrunken grapes and are harvested in their green state. Some are cooked and dried into rumpled black peppercorns bound for your pepper mill, while others are preserved in brine and sold in their natural olive-green state. Bite into one, and pepper notes will march in alongside hints of fruit and fresh grass; the sharp heat that follows can be mellowed out drastically with a few minutes of cooking.

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What Do I Do With It? The best peppercorns come from India and Southeast Asia, which is where they’re most often used in curries, stir fries or perched atop rice dishes or flatbreads. Stateside, they’re relegated to cheese trays, cocktails and the occasional sherry-cream sauce. Don’t limit them, though: Toss these little beauties into dressings and marinades, or throw them into a sauté pan with a hearty fish or a steak. Their peppery pop complements creamy sauces, too; simmer them into a potato gratin or mac ’n' cheese.


Green Peppercorn Shrimp and Winter Greens bites Serves 4 Vinaigrette ²⁄₃ cup plus 1 Tbsp olive oil, divided 2 tsp minced shallots 1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced ¹⁄₃ cup white wine vinegar 1½ Tbsp drained pickled green peppercorns 1 Tbsp Dijon mustard juice of 2 medium lemons 2 tsp lemon zest kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

To serve these bites as a salad, simply chop the endive leaves up and toss them with the rest of the ingredients, including the vinaigrette, and serve family-style.

bites 1 small head radicchio, finely chopped 3 oz spinach, torn 1 medium fennel bulb, thinly sliced, fronds reserved 1 Tbsp olive oil 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 tsp drained pickled green peppercorns, crushed 1 lb 26-30 uncooked shrimp, peeled and deveined 4 heads red or green Belgian endive, leaves separated 1 cup kalamata olives, pitted and roughly chopped 2 oz Feta cheese, crumbled kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste / preparation – vinaigrette / In a medium

skillet over medium heat, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add shallot and garlic and cook for 1 minute; add vinegar and peppercorns and heat until mixture has reduced, 5 minutes. Remove from heat and transfer to the bowl of a blender; add Dijon mustard, lemon juice and zest and blend on high while slowly streaming in remaining olive oil. Blend until smooth; set aside. / preparation – bites / In a large mixing bowl, combine radicchio, spinach and fennel; toss to mix. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat olive oil. Add garlic and peppercorns and cook, 30 seconds, stirring frequently. Add shrimp and cook until pink, stirring frequently, 4 minutes. Remove from heat and spoon into bowl to cool slightly. Lay endive leaves out on platter; divide greens into endive and evenly portion shrimp over greens, removing remnants from pan and adding over top. Top with fennel fronds, kalamata olives and Feta cheese. / to serve / Drizzle shrimp with vinaigrette

and season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.

PAir with: Gin

PA I R IT!

Black Shire Distillery's gin from Hermann, Missouri, uses both grapefruit peel and lemongrass in its production, which creates an earthy, yet citrus-forward profile that works wonderfully beside a vinaigrette and strong greens. For this particular pairing, combine gin, a touch of lemon juice and a sugar cube and top with Champagne for a French 75. blackshiredistillery.com -Jenn Tosatto

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st. louis

ONE on

with

Jeff Stevens /

founder, Wellbeing Brewing Co.

Written by Heather Riske photography by j. pollack photography

Jeff Stevens has tasted a lot of bad nonalcoholic beer. He quit drinking in his early 20s, but spent the majority of his career in beer and spirits marketing, surrounded by alcohol and longing for something a bit more inspired than Diet Coke. So, he decided to do something about it. In January 2018, the first beers from Wellbeing Brewing Co. – the country’s first completely nonalcoholic craft brewery – hit the market in St. Louis. Now, you can find Wellbeing beers across the U.S.

Why did you decide to start with wheat and amber styles? With the wheat, we wanted to prove we could make a really good beer. Let’s make something that feels approachable and drinkable, and takes nonalcoholic-beer drinkers on the same journey as craft beer drinkers. This is a recipe that had won a lot of awards and we knew was a really strong beer. And then we wanted to stretch into a hoppier, sessionable IPA, so we did the Hellraiser

next, which is a really crisp, dry amber with a floral hop. Tell us about the unique technology you use. A lot of NA [nonalcoholic] beers are sweet to me; they almost taste like they have a teaspoon of sugar in them. That’s because most NA breweries use either limited fermentation or stop fermentation methods: The sugars don’t ferment and that’s why there isn’t any alcohol produced. But it ruins the

Heavenly Body Golden Wheat Wellbeing’s first offering is based on a Great American Beer Festival award-winning recipe. The American-style wheat features a hint of Cascade and German Tradition hops for a slight citrus character that balances the beer’s lighter malts. 34

feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 1 9

flavor of the beer, and those beers then have a worty taste to them; wort is the very sweet stuff you put in the kettle before the sugars ferment. We’re the only craft brewer in the U.S. that uses a vacuum distillation machine. This technology allows us to boil the alcohol off at right around room temperature so it doesn’t ruin the beer. What else makes Wellbeing beers different from other NA beers on the market? Ours are

Hellraiser Dark Amber For a hoppier brew, try Wellbeing's Hellraiser. This easy-drinking beer balances a floral aroma with spicy hops.

incredibly dry and crisp, and they also have a mouthfeel to them that I feel a lot of the NAs don’t have. When you smell ours – especially the Hellraiser – all those hops really come through, where it might have been boiled off in other NA beers. The big thing is we’re making craft beers: We’re making craft styles like a wheat, an amber and a coffee stout, [which] are all different for the [NA] category as well. wellbeingbrewing.com

Intrepid Traveler Coffee Cream Stout The newest addition to the Wellbeing portfolio was made in collaboration with Mississippi Mud Coffee Roasters in Downtown St. Louis. The coffee-forward style is sweeter thanks to the addition of lactose, and also features notes of cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon.


HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Bolognese

Serves 12 2 2 10 1 ¾ 5 1 1 16 2

Classic Italian Bolognese like the one served at Parker at the Fontaine in Kansas City is ideal for warming up cold winter nights – and it’s also deceptively easy to make at home. Parker at the Fontaine executive chef Ryan Spruhan recommends serving this rich meat sauce with pappardelle or tagliatelle pasta. Recipe by Ryan Spruhan, executive chef, Parker at the Fontaine Photo by angela bond

“I prefer using good canned tomatoes in the winter. During the growing season, I would recommend the ripest local tomatoes available.” –Ryan Spruhan

Turn to p. 41 to learn more about cooking with Dutch ovens.

lbs ground beef lbs ground pork salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste slices bacon, finely diced sweet yellow onion, medium dice lbs carrots, peeled, medium dice garlic cloves, minced 28-oz can crushed tomatoes cup dry red wine oz heavy cream bay leaves and 1 sprig fresh thyme, added to an herb sachet sherry vinegar, to taste granulated sugar, to taste cooked pasta (to serve) freshly grated Parmesan cheese (to serve)

/ preparation / In a large mixing bowl, combine beef and pork, breaking meat apart using a wooden spoon. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Portion mixture into large meatballs. In a wide, shallow braiser or Dutch oven over low heat, render and sweat bacon, about 10 minutes. Add onion and carrots; cook for 10 minutes more. Add garlic and cook 1 to 2 minutes more or until garlic is fragrant. Add tomatoes and stir to combine. In a large sauté pans over medium-high heat, add prepared meatballs and, using a wooden spoon, smash slightly, one at a time, and cook for 4 to 5 minutes or until dark brown. Flip and cook for 4 to 5 minutes more on opposite side; you may need to do this in batches. Transfer cooked meatballs to vegetable mixture in braiser or Dutch oven. Stir to combine, and using a clean wooden spoon, break up meat. Let simmer, 10 minutes. Add red wine to sauté pan to deglaze, scraping up any fond using a clean wooden spoon. Reduce wine to slightly less than ¼ of original volume; add to mixture in braiser or Dutch oven. Add heavy cream and herb sachet and reduce heat to medium-low; cook until a thick, chililike consistency; about 20 to 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and add sherry vinegar and sugar to taste if desired. Spoon Bolognese over cooked pasta and top with Parmesan; serve.

PAI R IT!

pair with: English Mild ale For a rich red sauce like this one, try a light yet malty beer that will stand up to the dish's intensity without overpowering it. Mamoot from Logboat Brewing Co. in Columbia, Missouri, has a toasty sweetness to pair with meats, and bright carbonation to cleanse your palate. logboatbrewing.com -Justin Phelps

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35


[

Make a Beeline for Beets

]

baby beets Microgreens are the first shoots of a plant that push out of the ground — they might be cilantro, radishes, mustard greens or even beets — and they’re usually picked when they’re just a couple inches tall. In a similar way, baby beets are not a specific kind of beet. They’re simply any beet that’s been harvested before it fully matures. Sweet and tender, they can be baked or steamed right along with their leafy greens, shaved into salads or served raw as part of a vegetable platter.

in Good with

cHioggia beets

Here’s wHy to give beets a cHance witH amy glueck

Clinical dietitian at Barnes-Jewish Hospital and Washington University School of Medicine Beets have a curious mix of attributes. They might be hot pink or striped, sweet or nutty. Plus, their leaves are just as edible as the root itself. From top to bottom, beets bring a sweeping range of nutritional qualities. “Beets are healthy for a variety of reasons,” says Amy Glueck, a clinical dietitian for Barnes-Jewish Hospital and Washington University School of Medicine. “Beets contain nutrients like vitamin C, potassium and folate. We know that folate plays a role in DNA formation and repair, so this may help protect against cancer. Beets also contain betalains, which act as a potent antioxidant that has been seen to have a protective effect against cancer and heart conditions. Beetroot may be helpful for health as it is high in nitrate, which encourages vascular and metabolic functions.”

Though beets have a reputation for being rather earthy — a result of a compound known as geosmin — there are myriad ways to prepare them to temper their strong taste, such as by peeling. They are naturally high in sugar (but low in calories), and roasting draws out their sweetness. Boiling tends to mellow their flavor. But beware of overcooking them: Doing so saps some of their most important nutritional benefits. Glueck advises against roasting beets for more than an hour or steaming them for longer than 15 minutes. “The best way to eat beets would be lightly roasted or steamed or raw on a salad,” Glueck says. “If you choose canned or pickled beets you will consume a higher amount of sodium, which can be negative for heart health. Beet juice has been very popular over the last couple of years, but due to

the concentrated nature of juice you’ll consume more sugar without the benefits of fiber that you would get from eating a whole beet.” Beets contain tryptophan, an amino acid that floods the body with serotonin — a natural mood enhancer. They also contain betacyanin, the pigment that gives beets their deep red or violet color, which may elevate athletic performance because it increases the amount of oxygen sent to the blood. One study showed that cyclists who drank two cups of beetroot juice before riding went a whopping 20 percent farther than when they didn’t. So whether you’re looking for a boost to your mood or a boost to your physical fitness, eating beets just might do the trick.

Beet Bruschetta with Pesto Greens and Goat cheese Yields | 24 SERvINGS |

Ingredients: 3 medium-size golden beets 3 medium-size beets 1 baguette, sliced diagonally into ½-inch thick slices (24) ¼ cup olive oil 1 tablespoon balsamic ¼ cup finely diced red onion 4 oz. goat cheese 4 oz. cream cheese ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon cracked black pepper ½ teaspoon sugar 10 basil leaves, cut into ribbons

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Pesto: 4 cups water 2 cups beet greens (stems removed) ¼ cup walnuts 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped ¼ cup shredded Parmesan ¼ cup salt ¼ cup cracked black pepper ¼ cup olive oil 2 basil leaves 1 tablespoon lemon juice Zest of lemon

feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 1 9

| preparation | Preheat oven to 400°F. Peel beets and cut into small (1/2-inch) cubes. Toss with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Place on a baking sheet and roast for 45 to 50 minutes. In a large pot, bring 4 cups of water to a rolling boil. Place greens in boiling water for 1 minute until tender. Remove greens and place into an ice bath so that they are completely submerged until cool. Dry greens with paper towels, removing as much water as possible.Take all ingredients (except olive oil) for pesto and place into food processor. Pulse until finely chopped. Slowly drizzle olive oil into food processor while pulsing ingredients. Place goat cheese and cream cheese into a microwavable bowl and warm for 30 seconds. Blend together with a fork, and microwave for another 30 seconds to ensure that cheeses are well blended. Cut baguette. Brush both sides of each slice with olive oil. Bake at 400°F for 15 to 20 minutes or until bread is crisp. Mix roasted beets with balsamic, salt, pepper, sugar and diced red onion. Assemble baguettes. Spread each slice with 1 tablespoon goat/cream cheese mixture. Top with 1 teaspoon pesto. Then add ½ tablespoon roasted beets. Top with basil ribbon. Enjoy! Nutrition Information: 239 calories, 15g fat, 232mg sodium, 22g carbohydrate, 5g fiber, 8g protein.

Chioggia beets take their name from a town near venice, where this variety was first cultivated in the early 1800s. The beets themselves also might have taken inspiration from gondoliers’ shirts and mooring poles: On the inside, this intriguing heirloom vegetable has red and white stripes (or sometimes yellow and orange) in a bull’s-eye pattern. Also known as candy cane beets, chioggias are sweet, mild and can be eaten raw. If boiled beets are more to your taste, add some lemon juice to the water to keep those striking stripes in tact.

cylindra beets Though it brings to mind the name of a prescription sleep aid, cylindra refers to the shape (cylindrical) of this unusual root that looks like a short, plump, purple carrot. Unlike many other kinds of beets, the cylindra has smooth skin, which makes it a snap to clean, peel and slice. The deep purple color is a bold indication that it contains the antioxidant betanin in spades, and its flavor will be earthy and intense.

golden beets Though red beets are usually the first ones that spring to mind, we’d make a case for golden beets replacing them as the go-to. That’s because they are lighter, more tender and sweeter than their red counterparts, and that makes them more versatile, too. Golden beets work beautifully in salads, playing just as well with balsamic vinegar as they do with citrus dressing. When roasted with other vegetables (think carrots and potatoes), they won’t turn the whole dish pink: a small but potentially important point when it comes to introducing beets to skeptical first timers.

red beets That red beets are the kind best known to consumers isn’t a new trend. In fact, there’s evidence that the plant was widely grown and eaten throughout the Mediterranean as long as 4,000 years ago. The popularity of red beets has endured in borscht, a hearty soup that is the defining cuisine of some Eastern European nations. Speaking of endurance: Scientists have noted that people who eat diets rich in beets tend to live longer. Roasting red beets makes them sweeter, and they pair perfectly with tart goat cheese.


HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Full of fiber, protein, antioxidants and Omega-3 fatty acids, chia seeds are highly nutritious and low in calories. This simple pudding is perfect for an on-the-go breakfast or a sweet afternoon snack. It can be prepared in a matter of minutes and refrigerated for up to one week. Chia seeds absorb more than 10 times their weight in water, so be sure to let the pudding rest in the fridge overnight for the best flavor and texture. Written by Christy Augustin Photo by madison stringfellow

Visit feastmagazine.com for recipes for plain, matcha and chocolate flavor variations on this chia pudding.

Mango-Coconut Chia Pudding yields 1 pint 1 ripe fresh mango, peeled, seeded and finely diced, plus more for topping ¾ to 1 cup unsweetened coconut milk, divided pinch kosher salt 1 tsp honey 7 Tbsp chia seeds shredded coconut, for garnish / preparation / In the bowl of a food processor, purée mango with ½ cup coconut milk. Transfer to a measuring cup and add remaining coconut milk, as needed, until you have 1¾ cups total.

Pudding cups can be topped with fresh berries, kiwi, fruit purées, seeds or nuts as desired.

In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together mango-coconut milk purée, salt and honey until well blended. Whisk in chia seeds and let sit for 10 minutes at room temperature until slightly thickened. Pour into 3 to 4 small jars or cups, cover with lids or plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Serve cold, with toppings, if desired.

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37


Spring

ST. LOUIS, MO

NEW RESTAURANTS COMING SOON!

Festivals and events

I

Kemoll’s Chop House Everest Cafe & Bar Robata - Westport

Spring is an ideal time of the year to host events and festivals for foodies to enjoy. In this special advertising section, you can profile your upcoming event, with a focus on events that highlight wine, beer and food.

BACKSTREET JAZZ & BLUES | DINO’S DELI | DRUNKEN FISH FUNNY BONE COMEDY CLUB | FUZZY’S TACO SHOP | GATEWAY NEWSTANDS HATS-N-STUFF | IMOS PIZZA | KOBE JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE | MCDONALD’S PAUL MINEO’S TRATTORIA | PLAYHOUSE @ WESTPORT PLAZA

PROMOTION

Spring

SHERATON AT WESTPORT | SMOOTHIE KING | SAINT LOUIS BREAD COMPANY STARBUCKS | TRAINWRECK SALOON | WESTPORT SOCIAL

PROMOTION

march st. louis | food 30 pappy’S SmokehouSe porkapaLooza

march st. louis | beverage 09-17 St. LouiS Craft SpiritS & CoCktaiL CeLebration

April st. charles | shop CheSt hoLiday expo 16-18 treaSure Fri., Nov. 16 to Sun., Nov. 18. The treaSure CheSt hoLiday expo (treasurechestshows. com) is back in its 11th year. The annual holiday shopping extravaganza has more than 200 booths filled with gift items, one-of-a-kind arts and crafts, gourmet goodies, holiday and home décor, toys, books and more for all your holiday and gift-giving needs. The free event includes free parking and daily special presentations and raffles. Free.

Sun., Sept. 30, 11am to 5pm

Sat., Sept. 9 to Sun., Sept. 17

Join Pappy’s Smokehouse (3106 Olive St., Midtown, St. Louis, Missouri; 314.535.4340; pappyssmokehouse.com) as the St. Louis barbecue favorite celebrates 10 years! porkapaLooza is a parking-lot bash featuring offerings from Pappy’s, Southern, Bogart’s Smokehouse, Dalie’s Smokehouse, Seoul Taco, Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co., Mai Lee, Nudo House, Balkan Treat Box, Farmhaus, Anthonino’s Taverna, Strange Donuts, Ices Plain & Fancy, 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Center Ice Brewery. Live music includes Lacey Caroline, Tim Montana and The Shrednecks, and

Spirits of St. Louis is hosting cocktail highlights at area bars and restaurants as part of its St. LouiS Craft SpiritS & CoCktaiL CeLebration. It has also teamed up with local distilleries and cocktail bars so you can “drink like a local.” This year will highlight bars in the Cherokee Street district. The celebration kicks off with the sixth-annual Classic Cocktail Party on Sat., Sept. 9 from 6 to 9pm. For more information: 314.231.2537; facebook.com/stlouiscraftspiritscocktailweek. Location and price vary.

Festivals and events

G

EDITED BY BENTHANY CRISTO

iliquo inatiusquit; in spimilius am priorum in dicaes, ment? Ra videropone re iptiam din nessolum ipsede es? Natimorae o estribus caudes? int. Hemo vita publius hosuli clum serudam cum audeati dendaci ternihi lintil con hum in tantiam inatuscerri, nonsum eo consitium ta vius. Ibendii tatquid errit, nequam popteri occhuctus seni sentrei is acto mo implii ta pubis cris videtortus facentr untiondit virteritatis acidentu quemus publissu ingulvi denici caelintiam ducestrae dum intimih icepopos hos in re nos, Ti. Vivilintia none atuam potio, C. Pullaris opos es virtuam hac fecerum menimena, mor addum, nonsus moenicaelat, unum morsulici confect uitasdam. At verustis se pubit, nequam patia rei sedo, cultore me deaturo busceris. Itant, quo vocum practam con re actuium et que egilina, sena igitum poribus, quod

Intersection of I-270 and Page Avenue St. Louis, MO 314-576-7100 { westportstl.com }

feastmagazine.com

Sat., Sept. 9, 12 to 6pm

Sun., Sept. 23, 12 to 4pm

Sat., Nov. 3 and Sat., Nov. 10, 11am to 9pm

After many months of hard work harvesting grapes for its award-winning wines, balducci Vineyards (6601 S. Highway 94, Augusta, Missouri; 636.482.8466; balduccivineyards.com)is throwing a bash to celebrate the end of the harvest season! Head out to the Augusta, Missouri, winery for live entertainment, food and drink specials, bocce ball and other fun for the entire family, including an evening bonfire with s’mores and mulled wine. Free.

Inspired Local Food Culture

j a n u a ry 20 1 9

g Sprinfeaturing G events across the region PROMOTION

u

April kansas city | beverage 03 end of harveSt CeLebration

kansas city | food

boySGroW farm feSt 2018

The second-annual fall farm feSt (boysgrow.com/events/ boysgrow-farm-fest) is a family-friendly, chef-inspired event featuring renowned chef Lidia Bastianich of Lidia’s Kansas City. Enjoy food from 10 local restaurants, drinks, live music and a Kids’ Zone on the boysGrow farm (BoysGrow, 9301 E. 147th St., Kansas City, Missouri; 773.793.5056; ), all to raise awareness and funding for the nonprofit, which uses agriculture to teach entrepreneurship to the city’s urban male youth. VIP tickets include food in a private tent and a meet-and-greet with chef Bastianich. General admission $50, VIP $100, ages 3 to 21 $15 and free for 3 and under.

Now in its fifth year, independenCe unCorked (independenceuncorked.com)is the one of the largest wine festivals in the state, featuring 25 Missouri wineries, a guest spirits distiller and 2,400 attendees. Held on the historic grounds of the bingham-Waggoner mansion (313 W. Pacific Ave., Independence, Missouri; 913.999.4708), the event will also feature art, music, beer, food booths and classes on topics such as wine 101 and how beer impacts the wine industry. General admission is $25 in advance and $35 at the door.

I

NOW OPEN

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April 23

march kansas city | beverage 09 independenCe unCorked WinefeSt

march st. louis | beverage 09-17 St. LouiS Craft SpiritS & CoCktaiL CeLebration

Spirits of St. Louis is hosting cocktail highlights at area bars and restaurants as part of its St. LouiS Craft SpiritS & CoCktaiL CeLebration. It has also teamed up with local distilleries and cocktail bars so you can “drink like a local.” This year will highlight bars in the Cherokee Street district. The celebration kicks off with the sixth-annual Classic Cocktail Party on Sat., Sept. 9 from 6 to 9pm. For more information: 314.231.2537; facebook.com/stlouiscraftspiritscocktailweek. Location and price vary.

%PG

PROMOTION

march st. louis | food 30 pappy’S SmokehouSe porkapaLooza Sun., Sept. 30, 11am to 5pm

Sat., Sept. 9 to Sun., Sept. 17

j a n u a ry 2 0 1 9

Join Pappy’s Smokehouse (3106 Olive St., Midtown, St. Louis, Missouri; 314.535.4340; pappyssmokehouse.com) as the St. Louis barbecue favorite celebrates 10 years! porkapaLooza is a parking-lot bash featuring offerings from Pappy’s, Southern, Bogart’s Smokehouse, Dalie’s Smokehouse, Seoul Taco, Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co., Mai Lee, Nudo House, Balkan Treat Box, Farmhaus, Anthonino’s Taverna, Strange Donuts, Ices Plain & Fancy, 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Center Ice Brewery. Live music includes Lacey Caroline, Tim Montana and The Shrednecks, and

For Be er Lovers

April st. charles | shop CheSt hoLiday expo 16-18 treaSure Fri., Nov. 16 to Sun., Nov. 18.

The treaSure CheSt hoLiday expo (treasurechestshows. com) is back in its 11th year. The annual holiday shopping extravaganza has more than 200 booths filled with gift items, one-of-a-kind arts and crafts, gourmet goodies, holiday and home décor, toys, books and more for all your holiday and gift-giving needs. The free event includes free parking and daily special presentations and raffles. Free.

Festivals and events EDITED BY BENTHANY CRISTO

iliquo inatiusquit; in spimilius am priorum in dicaes, ment? Ra videropone re iptiam din nessolum ipsede es? Natimorae o estribus caudes? int. Hemo vita publius hosuli clum serudam cum audeati dendaci ternihi lintil con hum in tantiam inatuscerri, nonsum eo consitium ta vius. Ibendii tatquid errit, nequam popteri occhuctus seni sentrei is acto mo implii ta pubis cris videtortus facentr untiondit virteritatis acidentu quemus publissu ingulvi denici caelintiam ducestrae dum intimih icepopos hos in re nos, Ti. Vivilintia none atuam potio, C. Pullaris opos es virtuam hac fecerum menimena, mor addum, nonsus moenicaelat, unum morsulici confect uitasdam. At verustis se pubit, nequam patia rei sedo, cultore me deaturo busceris. Itant, quo vocum practam con re actuium et que egilina, sena igitum poribus, quod

march kansas city | beverage 09 independenCe unCorked WinefeSt Sat., Sept. 9, 12 to 6pm

I

Now in its fifth year, independenCe unCorked (independenceuncorked.com)is the one of the largest wine festivals in the state, featuring 25 Missouri wineries, a guest spirits distiller and 2,400 attendees. Held on the historic grounds of the bingham-Waggoner mansion (313 W. Pacific Ave., Independence, Missouri; 913.999.4708), the event will also feature art, music, beer, food booths and classes on topics such as wine 101 and how beer impacts the wine industry. General admission is $25 in advance and $35 at the door.

April 23

kansas city | food

boySGroW farm feSt 2018 Sun., Sept. 23, 12 to 4pm

The second-annual fall farm feSt (boysgrow.com/events/ boysgrow-farm-fest) is a family-friendly, chef-inspired event featuring renowned chef Lidia Bastianich of Lidia’s Kansas City. Enjoy food from 10 local restaurants, drinks, live music and a Kids’ Zone on the boysGrow farm (BoysGrow, 9301 E. 147th St., Kansas City, Missouri; 773.793.5056; ), all to raise awareness and funding for the nonprofit, which uses agriculture to teach entrepreneurship to the city’s urban male youth. VIP tickets include food in a private tent and a meet-and-greet with chef Bastianich. General admission $50, VIP $100, ages 3 to 21 $15 and free for 3 and under.

April kansas city | beverage 03 end of harveSt CeLebration Sat., Nov. 3 and Sat., Nov. 10, 11am to 9pm

After many months of hard work harvesting grapes for its award-winning wines, balducci Vineyards (6601 S. Highway 94, Augusta, Missouri; 636.482.8466; balduccivineyards.com)is throwing a bash to celebrate the end of the harvest season! Head out to the Augusta, Missouri, winery for live entertainment, food and drink specials, bocce ball and other fun for the entire family, including an evening bonfire with s’mores and mulled wine. Free.

For Food Lovers

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Lumière Place Casino & Hotels 999 North 2nd St. | 314.725.4008 Mortons.com 38

feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 1 9

feastmagazine.com

january 2019

ine For W rs e Lov

Inspired Local Food Culture

Coming in the april issue Call 314-475-1298 for more information

jan uary 20 19

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HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Pork and Hominy Stew Cold winter nights call for warmth and comfort, and this smoky pork and hominy stew provides both. Inspired by the flavors of Mexican pozole, the recipe also includes tomatoes for acidity and premade pulled pork from the grocery to speed up the cook time to just 30 minutes.

In this class, you’ll learn how to make a colorful and rich salad inspired by the flavor of Mexican street corn. You’ll also learn how to make churros at home.

Written by Gabrielle DeMichele Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Get Hands-On Join Feast Magazine and Schnucks Cooks Cooking School at 6pm on Wed., Jan. 16, at the Des Peres, Missouri, location to make the dishes in this month’s menu. Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine.

RSVP at

nourish.schnucks.com/ schnucks-cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704.

Serves 12 3 2 1 1 4 1 2 1 3 1 1 2½

slices smoked bacon, finely chopped cups diced sweet onion salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste cup diced carrot cup diced celery large garlic cloves, finely chopped 28-oz can San Marzano tomatoes dried chiles de árbol, finely chopped cup unsalted beef stock cups unsalted chicken stock 28-oz can hominy, drained and rinsed tsp dried oregano cups pre-made pulled pork sour cream (to serve) tortilla strips (to serve)

 Chef’s Tips: Turn to p. 41 to learn more about cooking wit ha Dutch oven at home.

/ preparation / In a large Dutch oven or stockpot with a lid over medium heat, render bacon until there's enough fat to cover bottom of pan. Add onion, season with a pinch of salt and cook for 1 minute. Add carrots and celery, season with another pinch of salt and cook 2 minutes. Add garlic and cook 1 minute. In a large mixing bowl, add chiles de árbol and tomatoes and blend using an immersion blender until tomatoes break down and chiles are fully incorporated. Add tomato mixture to Dutch oven, plus both stocks, hominy and oregano. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes uncovered. Add pulled pork, cover and cook 10 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot with a dollop of sour cream and tortilla strips.

TURN UP THE HEAT. Chiles de árbol are small, bright red chiles, about 1 to 3 inches long. They have a smooth, clean heat; use more or fewer chiles in the stew depending on what level of heat you desire. SALT BLOCK. Salting vegetables as they’re added to the stew helps pull moisture from each ingredient and intensifies their flavor.

MAKE THE MEAL • • • •

Pork and Hominy Stew Mexican Street Corn Salad Pollo alla Crema Churros With Dulce de Leche Ice Cream / j a nu a ry 2 019

39


y r a n i l u C Brianb Moxey

Libra ry executive chef, sardella

Inspired Local Food Culture | Midwest

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Brian Moxey recently took the helm at Sardella in Clayton, Missouri, where he’s refocusing the menu with modern takes on classic Italian dishes. With a long history cooking Italian food, first established at Insieme in New York City, Moxey is well-equipped to take the restaurant in a new direction. Here, he shares the cookbooks that shaped his approach. -Heather Riske

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The French Laundry Cookbook By Thomas Keller (1999) “The French Laundry Cookbook was very influential in making me want to pursue cooking professionally. A lot of cooks in my generation probably feel the same about that one! It’s a really cool look behind the curtain at the pursuit of perfection, sourcing good ingredients and care for the process of cooking all in a glossy package. It really made a big impact.”

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner... Life By Missy Robbins (2017) “Missy Robbins’ first cookbook, Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner… Life, is really awesome. I love what she does and really enjoyed her story through the book.”

Salt to Taste By Marco Canora (2009) “Marco Canora’s Salt to Taste should be in everyone’s collection. I worked for him at Insieme and Hearth [in New York City], and I can still hear his voice over my shoulder as a young cook. The recipes work; his food and style and the dishes in that book are so solid. I make the ribollita [a Tuscan bread soup with dinosaur kale] every year when the temperature drops. It’s just such a satisfying and healthy, hearty dish that I crave when it’s cold out.”


HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Goi ng

Dutch Written by Liz Miller / illustration by kim cho

No kitchen is complete without a Dutch oven. These large, heavy kettles with tight-fitting lids are essential for stewing and braising, yet capable of so much more. Typically they're made of cast iron or enameled cast iron, the shiny, no-rust surface made popular by Le Creuset. They’re also produced with aluminum, ceramics, stainless steel, and more, but cast iron is best for harnessing their true functionality. They can be used to make everything from coq au vin and slow-cooked tomato sauce to no-knead breads and even dessert. Turn the page to learn more about this culinary workhorse that every home cook should count in their arsenal. ▜

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HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

1

Yes, they originated in the Netherlands. Legend goes that at some point during the 17th century, an enterprising Dutchman cast metal in a mold primarily constructed of sand instead of the traditional clay. The sand mold produced a smoother, more desirable finish for kettles, including those made of cast iron that were designed to cook over an open flame. By 1708, Englishman Abraham Darby had adapted and patented the process. Some experts believe Darby first brought Dutch ovens to the American colonies; in Complete Book of Dutch Oven Cooking, author J. Wayne Fears says that they were introduced to colonists by Dutch traders. However it happened, the heavy, deep-bottomed kettles were central to early American kitchens.

Chris Matsch

owner, Ibis Bakery “[Cast-iron] Dutch ovens are a great way

2

Dutch oven options abound

vWhen cooking in a nonenameled cast-iron Dutch oven, keep in mind that acid can cause rust and wear on the iron. For tomato sauces, vinegar-braised meat and vegetables, jams and other acidic recipes, use an enameled Dutch oven.

at home because they allow the baker to mimic traditional wood-fired baking, where bread is loaded into a very hot oven and the door is shut. Steam is generated as the bread bakes, which protects it from drying out. About halfway through the bake, the steam mostly evaporates and the bread expands; at this point, the crust starts to form and crisp. To mimic this at home, add bread dough to a Dutch oven with a lid and bake in a 500°F oven. Cook for 15 minutes or so with the lid on, then carefully remove the lid and reduce temperature to 450°F. Cook until crust

photo by zach bauman

There’s likely a Dutch oven to suit your desired size, style and color. From the famous enameled cast-iron options by Le Creuset to more budget-friendly options from Lodge, there’s a Dutch oven ideal for every home cook. These are available online as well as many local home kitchen stores.

v Nonenameled cast-iron Dutch ovens must be seasoned to avoid rusting. To season your kettle, first, scrub and rinse the inside with kosher salt. Next, grease the bottom and sides with vegetable shortening – just enough to coat – and bake for 1 hour at 350°F. Once cool, rub the inside with a paper towel to remove any residue.

to produce an ideal loaf of au levain bread

reaches your desired color.”

They’re a camper’s best friend. No need to pack a Le Creuset 9-Quart enameled Cast-Iron Round Dutch Oven Le Creuset, $420, lecreuset.com

Use your kettle for desserts, no-knead bread and more. When you think of a Dutch oven,

◀ Lodge Pro-Logic 7-Quart Cast-Iron Dutch Oven $102, Lodge, lodgemfg.com

the first recipes that come to mind are likely hearty soups, broths,

mess of pots and pans when camping: a basic cast-iron Dutch oven is all you need. You can make every meal in your kettle, including beer-braised short ribs, an easy potato gratin, biscuits and gravy and cinnamon rolls. The only other essential you’ll need is a tripod, which runs about $30 at outdoor recreation stores. The tripod has a chain and hook that allows you to suspend a Dutch oven over your fire and adjust the kettle closer to or farther away from the flame.

stews and braised meats. That’s all fine and good – especially this month – but Dutch ovens

◀ Cravings by chrissy teigen 5-Quart Enameled Dutch Oven

can be used to make so much

$49.99, Target, target.com

fried calamari, slow-cooked pork

more. Curries, steamed mussels, shoulder, whole roasted chicken and even cakes and no-knead breads – you’re only limited by your imagination. Breads are especially fun and easy to experiment with in your cast-iron Dutch oven: The

◀ Staub .25-Quart Round Mini Cast-Iron Cocotte $67.99, Staub, staubusa.com 42

feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 1 9

kettles retain heat so effectively that they almost get hot enough to mimic professional bakery ovens.

photo by jonanthan gayman

◀ lodge 4-quart camp dutch oven with handle $74, Lodge, lodgemfg.com

For easy recipes to make in a Dutch oven on your next camping trip, visit feastmagazine.com.


“I’m not much for cake, but upside-down cake is one I like! For this recipe, I used my grandmother Mimi’s pound cake recipe, which I swear by: It’s a bit lighter than a typical pound cake and has a great flavor and texture. I used apples in this recipe, but you can use whatever fruit you’d like: Pears, bananas or peaches would all work well.” –John Perkins

Dutch Oven Apple Upside-Down Cake Ready to get creative with your Dutch oven? Chef John Perkins, who owns Juniper in St. Louis, shared his recipe for Dutch oven apple upside-down cake, a riff on the pound cake served at the restaurant. Recipe by john perkins, chef-owner, juniper Photo by j. pollack photography

Serves 8 Apple Upside-Down Cake 3 sticks unsalted butter, divided 3 cups granulated sugar 1 Tbsp vanilla extract or whiskey 6 eggs, separated 3 cups cake flour 1½ tsp baking powder ¼ tsp baking soda ¼ tsp salt 1 cup buttermilk ½ cup brown sugar 6 apples, peeled, cored and sliced Apple Cider Soak 1 cup apple cider 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cinnamon stick 3 whole allspice berries 1 star anise / preparation–apple upside-down cake / Preheat oven to 350°F. In the bowl of stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, add 2 sticks butter and sugar and whisk until light and fluffy. Add vanilla extract or whiskey and egg yolks, one at a time, until fully incorporated. In a small mixing bowl, add next 4 ingredients and stir; slowly add to egg mixture, alternating with adding buttermilk, until dry and wet ingredients are thoroughly combined. In a medium mixing bowl, beat egg whites until stiff and fold into batter. In a Dutch oven over medium-high heat, heat remaining butter and brown sugar until mixture bubbles, about 2 to 3 minutes; remove from heat. Layer apple slices across brown sugar-butter mixture and pour cake batter over top. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until the center of cake is no longer jiggly and a toothpick inserted in center of cake comes out clean. / preparation–apple cider soak / In a small saucepot over medium-high heat, add all ingredients. Cook until sugar has dissolved, about 2 to 3 minutes. Using a pastry brush, liberally brush top of upside-down cake in Dutch oven with apple cider soak. Repeat as many times as desired for additional flavor. Run a knife or offset spatula around perimeter of cake to loosen from sides of Dutch oven; flip Dutch oven upside down to turn cake out. Slice and serve. / j a nu a ry 2 019

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Photo by Heather Reed Photography

Our beautiful lakeside setting, award winning wines an amazing sunsets create the perfect place for new beginning. Located just 45 minutes from downtown St. Louis. Flexible, open reception space accommodating 100 to 350 guests.

A picturesque vineyard with award winning wines. call or email for more information 300 W Main St., Grafton, il 62037 WWW.theGraftonWinery.coM events@thegraftonwinery.com 618.786.3001

%PG

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promotion

a feast-forward guide to the big day Y o u r w e d d i n g daY Make the most of your magical moment with Feast’s third-annual wedding guide. Turn the page for hot rehearsal spots, custom-catering options and one-of-a-kind ideas for venues and parties. EditEd by bEthany Christo


PROMOTION

h i l to n at t h e b a l l pa r k From a party or rehearsal overlooking the St. Louis skyline at Three Sixty rooftop bar to a magnificent reception – Hilton at the Ballpark is a Downtown destination that includes all amenities a wedding requires.


PROMOTION C l e v e l a n d - h e at h u The rehearsal venue at Cleveland-Heath offers a quaint private dining area with a ton of flexible menu options, not to mention an extensive wine list. P hoto by Jennifer S i lv erberg

WEDDING GUIDE

t Fava Z Z a ’ S on the hill Along with great Italian food, Favazza’s has hosted thousands of rehearsal dinners in its 40 years. Book any of its five private areas, including The Patio Garden. Smoke u brewing Co. The 50-person Barrel Room at Smoke Brewing Co. in Kansas City suits any occasion. Custom-create your food from Smoke’s classically trained chef and drinks from the full bar and cocktail menu.

Worth brEakING Hello BruncH

Who said you have to have rehearsal dinner? Switch things up with a lovely midmorning brunch and plenty of mimosas. Guest list

Typically the rehearsal guest list is limited to the wedding party, but inviting out-of-town friends and family is a thoughtful way to welcome those who have traveled to celebrate. l e av e t H e t u x at H o m e

Reheasal-dinner attire is often thought of as formalwear, but if that’s not your thing, think outside the box. A local brewery for finger-licking barbecue and beer, anyone?


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CeS & JudY’S The above-and-beyond mentality has established Ces & Judy’s as a top wedding caterer in St. Louis. The catering team can serve you

Ph oto b y Jen n i fe r K li n K Ph otog r aP h y

wherever you choose to say “I do.”


St. Louis’ premier wedding reception facility providing an authentic Italian wedding experience Accommodates up to 500 guests / Catering by Favazza’s

3 additional rooms including an outdoor patio with fireplace also available at Favazza’s for private parties. Wedding Inquiries: 314-772-4454 / info@favazzas.com 2300 Edwards Street, St. Louis, MO Roseofthehill.com

5201 Southwest Street, St. Louis, MO Favazzas.com

New Year’s Eve NOW TAKING RESERVATIONS 9 PM - 1 AM | DECEMBER 31ST $75 PER PERSON Live music with Jonathan Joseph & Friends 9 PM - 1 AM Call (417) 851-5299 or email drauhoff@hotelvandivort.com to reserve your seat

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Private Party rooms with bottle service and a food menu Perfect for bachelorette and bachelor Parties

The Franklin Room In Historic Soulard

book online! 6655 Delmar BlvD Bl www.thewkaraok araoke.com e.com 314.376.4055

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Unique private room centrally located in Webster Groves!

Contact our Event Manager at 314-963-3434 or events.cyranos@yahoo.com 50

feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 1 9


WEDDING GUIDE

p g r a C e m e at + t h r e e Grace Meat + Three in St. Louis has a variety of hors d’oeuvre options for your big day. Try pimento cheese deviled eggs with everything spice, heirloom bean hummus with harissa or house-pickled veggies at your reception. Plus, Grace’s famous St. Louis-style Duroc pork ribs and fried chicken will keep guests coming back for more.

PROMOTION 23 CitY bloCkS u C at e r i n g St. Louis’ hottest new caterer offers unsurpassed personalized service and crafts from the freshest local ingredients, presenting plates with artistic flair.

t beaSt CraFt bbQ Co. Beast offers expertly crafted, meat-centric catering options, from à la carte to full service to even a whole hog. A director of catering is on staff to help build your wedding menu.


PROMOTION

the w karaoke lounge Each of The W Karaoke Lounge’s 10 private karaoke rooms has its own upscale décor. Instead of flying to Las Vegas, head to The W for a VIP bachelor party or wedding after-party.


WEDDING GUIDE

PROMOTION S.d. Strong u diStilling S.D. Strong Distilling is the only known distillery in a cave. Distilling spirits 65 feet underground, where conditions never vary, provides unique, high-quality flavor experiences.

t three SixtY Three Sixty is an elevated place to celebrate everything. From rehearsal dinners, bachelor and bachelorette parties, and even weddings themselves – spend a memorable night 400 feet above St. Louis on top of Hilton at the Ballpark. CYrano’S u Cyrano’s private event room accommodates 50 to 70 people and features eclectic, unique design. Affordable plated and buffet packages are available for lunch or dinner (plus must-try desserts!).

S.D. StroNG’S

c o c k ta I l Try a signature cocktail at your bachelor party, like this classic crowd-pleaser made with a new Kansas City-area bourbon. SERVES | 1 | 1

orange slice

4

dashes Angostura bitters

2

Luxardo cherries, divided

2

oz S.D. Strong Distillery Big Boom Straight Bourbon Whiskey

¼

oz simple syrup ice club soda, to top (optional)

| PrePArAtion | In an old-fashioned glass, place orange slice, bitters and 1 cherry. Gently muddle, releasing orange and cherry juice. Add bourbon, simple syrup and ice, and stir well. Top off with a small amount of club soda. Garnish with remaining cherry and orange slice.


PROMOTION

l aC h a n C e v i n e Ya r d S In De Soto, Missouri, LaChance offers a wedding backdrop full of gorgeous sunsets, acres of budding vines, romantic fountains and open green spaces.


Sip award winning wine at the Confluence of the Mississippi and Illinois Rivers

Live Music

Saturday from 3-7 Sunday from 2-6

Hours

Monday-Thursday 11-7 p.m Friday and Saturday 11-9 p.m. Sunday 12-7 p.m.

300 W Main St. | Grafton, il 62037 | WWW.theGraftonWinery.coM

After the holidays, we could all use a little comfort. And beer.

209 SE Main St Lee's Summit, MO 64063 816.525.BEER (2337)

A PIctuRESquE WEDDIng VEnuE BLK Photography

Unique indoor & outdoor ceremony & reception spaces for up to 250 guests

DInnER

Friday and Saturday evenings from 5pm-8pm

WInERY hOuRS:

Lunch

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Wine cellar, outdoor covered deck, vineyard & atrium Our own Vintage Restaurant creates menus tailored for weddings, showers, rehearsal dinners & receptions

Visit stonehillwinery.com for more info! 800-909-9463 / j a nu a ry 2 019

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p

o

Big Boom

straight BourBon MADE IN A CAVE PARKVILLE, MISSOURI SDSTRONGDISTILLING.COM SD Strong Vodka | Pillar 136 Gin SD Strong Straight Rye Whiskey New Release Big Boom Bourbon Barrel Rested Pillar 136 Gin

Happy Hour

Monday-Friday 2:30-5:30pm ½ Price Beer and Wine $5 Select Cocktails Food Specials

106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville 618.307.4830 • clevelandheath.com Mon–Thu 11am–10pm, Fri 11am–11pm, Sat 10am–11pm, Sun 10am-8pm First Come - First Serve (No reservations)

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Extraordinary Space, Extraordinary Events 3207 Washington Blvd. St. Louis 63103 www.barnettonwashington.com | events@barnettonwashington.com 1.844.GOBARNETT


WEDDING GUIDE

PROMOTION barnett on u wa S h i n g to n The Bronson Patio is an outdoor oasis that must be seen to appreciate. Add this new option to your event at Barnett to enjoy cocktails outside at your gathering.

t hotel va n d i v o r t In Springfield,

vENUE

Missouri, the Cornerstone Room and Vandivort Ballroom offer stunning views, sleek design, natural light, cutting-edge multimedia, flexible seating and catering options. graFton u winerY Among scenic settings in Grafton, Illinois, the two wedding venues at Grafton Winery & Brewhaus and The Vineyards offer unbeatable views of the lake and vineyards for up to 350 guests.

multiPle events To ensure you’re getting the most attention on your special day and to plan setup, check with the event team if they book several events in one day.

venDor list Ask the venue if it has preferred or exclusive vendors before you book – this will affect cost and planning for food, drinks, music and more.

W H at ’ s i n c l u D e D From tables and linens to beverage and food costs, make sure you know a detailed estimate of all of the fees and minimums associated with hosting your wedding there.

menu HelP Many venues will know from past experience how to build a diverse and satisfying menu, but don’t be afraid to push the venue to customize to your preferences and requests.

Floor Plan Table spacing and floor-plan layout really affect the vibe of a wedding – no one likes to rub elbows all night. Listen to the venue’s event planner for suggestions and helpful tips.


WEDDING GUIDE

p edg-CliF FarmS & v i n e Ya r d The Vineyard Venue is a romantic destination wedding only an hour away. Hold your ceremony in the vineyards followed by a reception in tents.

PROMOTION Stone hill winerY u Wedding spaces at Stone Hill Winery include its one-of-a-kind, 170-year-old wine cellar, plus options like its vineyard, an outdoor covered deck and atrium.

t the Franklin room Located in historic Soulard, The Franklin Room offers exceptional and reasonable catering for up to 300 people in a charming, 115-year-old, Victorian-style ballroom.


PROMOTION

[DIRECToRy] [ I L L I N oI S ]

[ ST. L ouIS ]

[ ST. L ouIS ]

[ S T. L o uI S ]

[ S T . L ouI S ]

[ IL L INo IS ]

[ KANSAS CIT y ]

[ MI S S o uR I ]

[ S T . L ouI S ]

[ ST. L ouIS ]

[ K A N SA S CI T y ]

[ ST. L ouIS ]

CLeVeLAnD-heAth 160 N. Main St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.4830 clevelandheath.com fAVAzzA’S on the hiLL 5201 Southwest Ave. St. Louis, Mo 314.772.4454 favazzas.com hiLton At the BALLPArk 1 S. Broadway St. Louis, Mo 314.421.1776 hilton.com Smoke BreWing Co. 209 SE Main St. Lee’s Summit, Mo 816.525.2337 smokebrewingco.com

NoTES:

23 City BLoCkS CAtering 1600 N. Broadway St. Louis, Mo 314.615.2480 23cityblocks.com BeASt CrAft BBQ Co. 20 S. Belt W Belleville, IL 618.257.9000 beastcraftbbq.com CeS & JuDy’S 10405 Clayton Road St. Louis, Mo 314.991.6700 cesandjudys.com grACe meAt + three 4270 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, Mo 314.533.2700 stlgrace.com

CyrAno’S 603 E. Lockwood Ave. Webster Groves, Mo 314.963.3232 cyranos.com S.D. Strong DiStiLLing 8500 NW River Park Drive #136A Parkville, Mo sdstrongdistilling.com

[ ST. L ouIS ] three Sixty 1 S. Broadway St. Louis, Mo 314.241.8439 360-stl.com

[ ST. L ouIS ]

the W kArAoke Lounge 6655 Delmar Blvd. university City, Mo 314.376.4055 thewkaraoke.com

BArnett on WAShington 3207 Washington Ave. St. Louis, Mo 1.844.Go.BARNETT barnettonwashington.com eDg-CLif fArmS & VineyArD 10035 Edg-Clif Drive Potosi, Mo 573.438.4741 edg-clif.com

[ S T. L o uI S ]

the frAnkLin room 816 Allen Ave. St. Louis, Mo 314.664.7706 thefranklinroom.net

[ I L L I N oI S ]

grAfton Winery & BreWhAuS 300 West Main St. Grafton, IL 618.786.3001 thegraftonwinery.com

[ I L L I N oI S ]

grAfton Winery the VineyArDS 21028 Eckert orchard Road Grafton, IL 618.786.3001 thegraftonwinery.com

[ S PR I N GFI EL D ] hoteL VAnDiVort 305 E. Walnut St. Springfield, MO 417.832.1515 hotelvandivort.com

[ MI S S o uR I ]

LAChAnCe VineyArDS 12237 Peter Moore Lane De Soto, Mo 636.586.2777 lachancevineyards.com

[ MI S S o uR I ]

Stone hiLL Winery AnD VintAge reStAurAnt 1110 Stone Hill Highway Hermann, Mo 573.486.2221 stonehillwinery.com


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2019

For the past eight years, the January issue of Feast has been dedicated to the people and places making serious waves in our region’s culinary industry. In our annual Tastemakers edition, we celebrate those places and the men and women who make them great. After months of working with writers and editors in each of our coverage areas – St. Louis, Kansas City, Columbia and Springfield – we’ve identified the chefs, sommeliers, bartenders, restaurateurs and artisans who are defining what’s next in local food and drink. In the following pages, we’re proud to share this year’s roster of rising stars , who are pushing boundaries either in kitchens of their own or under the direction of some of the region’s best chefs. You’ll also find stories about the industry innovators who are expanding what’s possible in food and drink in the Midwest, from groundbreaking chefs to progressive brewery owners and hospitality pros. Of course, no issue dedicated to what’s new in the food scene is complete without a look at the year’s best new restaurants , and our roundup shares the can’t-miss spots that have opened from December 2017 to October 2018. We hope you’re inspired by the creativity, innovation and excellence in these pages, and that, like us, it makes you even more excited to explore our culinary community.

written by

Tessa Cooper, Ana Elliott, April Fleming, Natalie Gallagher, Katherine Herrick, Liz Miller, Catherine Neville, Heather Riske, Nancy Stiles, Lillian Stone, Jessica Vaughn MARTIN and Jenny Vergara

More exciting restaurant openings are in the works for 2019. Visit feastmagazine.com for the most-anticipated restaurants slated to open this year. / j a nu a ry 2 019

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| 2019

Maryland Heights, Missouri, pays homage to her Chinese-Vietnamese roots with modern flair. Her healthy, quick-service dishes are based on recipes from her mother and aunt. One of Truong’s standouts is the vermicelli bowl, featuring your choice of steak, chicken, pork, shrimp, tofu, fish or vegan beef, plus vermicelli noodles, cucumber, red cabbage, lettuce, cilantro, scallion, pickled vegetables, peanut, fried shallots and a crispy egg roll. Fluffy Taiwanese-style bao come stuffed with similar ingredients. With a fast-casual and fresh approach, Truong is poised to make her mark on the local dining scene. – Nancy Stiles

ST. LOUIS

Julie Truong < Nick Bognar > Nick Bognar spent his childhood watching his mother run restaurants in the St. Louis area, yet it took moving away to find his calling in the industry. After attending culinary school in St. Louis, he learned the art of making nigiri and sashimi in Austin and Cincinnati. Now running the kitchens at Ramen Tei and Nippon Tei – which are owned by his mother, Ann – Bognar is sharing his passion for Japanese cuisine with St. Louis. Get a taste of his approach with the omakase at Nippon Tei, where Bognar serves five pieces of whatever nigiri is newest or most inspiring to him that day. In the next year, he’s planning to open his own restaurant in St. Louis. –Liz Miller

ddmaustl.com photos by

sean locke Julie Truong grew up helping out at her family’s chop suey restaurant, but she had her sights set on a career in fashion. Luckily for St. Louis steak diners, Truong changed course and opened vermicelli bowl DD Mau last year. The fast-casual spot in

nippon.teistl.com / ramen.teistl.com / photo by j. pollack photography

Bognar recently started hosting an omakase dinner series at Nippon Tei in collaboration with chefs from across the country.

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<Mandy Estrella

<José Venta

When Alpha Brewing Co. moved from Downtown St. Louis to Tower Grove South last March, it partnered with Mandy Estrella, a.k.a. Plantain Girl, on a food concept for the new taproom and brewery. Estrella was introduced to Caribbean food thanks to her now ex-husband, who is Dominican, when they lived in Florida. After returning to St. Louis, Estrella made a name for herself catering and hosting Plantain Girl pop ups featuring Caribbean- and South American-inspired cuisine, but Alphateria has given her a chance to shine. Items like tostones – smashed, fried plantains served with salsa rosada, a seasoned mayonnaise-ketchup blend – and ropa vieja, braised flank steak served with black beans, white rice, maduros (ripe plantains), avocado and pickled onions, pair with Alpha’s range of unique beers, including its tropical fruit variants. –N.S.

José Venta is no stranger to hard work. After earning a master’s degree in social work from Saint Louis University, he spent several years as a social worker. Yet he always loved cooking – and admits he was pretty good at it – but didn’t have a lot of experience. However, when a friend got Venta a dishwashing job at James Beard award-winning chef Kevin Nashan’s Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co., he jumped at the opportunity. Four years later, he’s pastry chef at Nashan’s acclaimed fine-dining restaurant Sidney Street Cafe . Venta’s favorite desserts are those that pay homage to his Hispanic heritage, including a goat-cheese flan with fermented hot-chile caramel, pineapple and coconut, and a play on tres leches cake with pickled cranberries and butternut squash ganache topped with pork rinds coated in cinnamon sugar. –N.S.

plantaingirl.com

sidneystreetcafestl.com

photo by j. pollack photography

photo by spencer pernikoff


.Shimon Otsuka

.Jessie Gilroy

One of Shimon Otsuka’s first pastry jobs was for master pastry chef Shinpei Asada at Patisserie Aplanos in Saitama, Japan. While researching revered bakeries in the U.S. a few years ago, Otsuka came across Nathaniel Reid Bakery in Kirkwood, Missouri, and was inspired by the lauded pastry chef’s work. Otsuka called the bakery, and though Reid didn’t have an opening, he invited the young chef to stage; Otsuka drove from North Carolina to St. Louis the same day. Today, as Reid’s kitchen manager, his day-to-day work is focused on production – making the shop’s chocolate bars, mousse and all of the cakes – but in his free time, he experiments with Japanese flavors like yuzu and matcha in desserts. –L.M.

Jessie Gilroy has come a long way from washing dishes at a Fortel’s Pizza Den when she was 15. After gaining a following at now-shuttered Cucina Pazzo in St. Louis, the chef opened her first restaurant, Pangea , in St. Charles, Missouri, in 2017. Her travels have also taken her to restaurants in Hawaii and Miami, which inspired her to explore Dominican, Puerto Rican, Vietnamese, Thai and Filipino cooking. At Pangea, you’ll taste the full range of Gilroy’s experiences, from traditional Italian cuisine and American pub fare to Asian-inspired dishes. It would be easy for the global menu to feel unfocused; instead, Gilroy’s approach proves that comfort food translates across all cultures.

chefnathanielreid.com

facebook.com/pangeaworldfusion

photo by kelly glueck

photo by sean locke

–L.M.

>Charlie Martin & Morgaine Segura

An alum of now-shuttered Niche, Schingel first met the Gallinas while working at the renowned Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Tarrytown, New York.

Just below the neon heart glowing above the bar at Olive + Oak , you’ll find bartenders – and newlyweds – Morgaine Segura and Charlie Martin shaking up seasonal cocktails like the No. 48 with Japanese whiskey, cinnamon, honey, lemon and a red wine float. The couple first met while working at Eclipse in the Delmar Loop; after Segura landed a job at one of their favorite spots, Olive + Oak in Webster Groves, Missouri, it wasn’t long before Martin joined her. The couple is especially into amaro – they even named one of their cats Averna – and last spring, they debuted a house amaro at Olive + Oak after months of recipe testing. Likened to a cross between green chartreuse and Fernet-Branca, the vibrant, bright green amaro combines more than a dozen different ingredients including sage, mint and rosemary. –HEATHER RISKE

oliveandoakstl.com / photo by j. pollack photography

Alec Schingel <

#314: House amaro, cynar, lime, sugar and Underberg bitters

Michael and Tara Gallina’s Vicia in St. Louis has earned a national reputation for its innovative vegetable-forward fare, but the restaurant’s bread program is no afterthought. That’s largely thanks to sous chef Alec Schingel, who’s responsible for a variety of freshly baked breads ranging from the toasted porridge layered with seasonal ingredients like grilled carrots, whipped ricotta and mustard greens to the freshly milled turkey wheat topped with carrot tartare and cured goose egg yolks. Just as executive chef Michael works directly with local, sustainable farmers and producers, Schingel takes care to source local whole grains for his breads; a recent loaf, for instance, highlighted Glenn, a hard red spring wheat from The Mill at Janie’s Farm in Ashkum, Illinois. –H.R.

viciarestaurant.com / photo by j. pollack photography / j a nu a ry 2 019

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ST. LOUIS |

| 2019

Best New Restaurants Yellowbelly

Louie

The Bao

Savage restaurant

Yellowbelly isn’t a beach bar – it’s what beach bars want to be when they grow up. The city’s first dedicated rum bar serves cocktails both beloved (Piña Coladas and Mai Tais) and new (the namesake cocktail combines two types of rum with coconut, turmeric and pineapple). Thanks to consulting chef Richard Blais of Top Chef fame, the food is equally fun: Think lobster enchiladas, avocado toast with a mango “yolk” and a spin on Red Lobster’s famous Cheddar Bay biscuits. –H.R.

Both casual and refined, simple yet sophisticated, Matt McGuire’s Louie feels established in a way that few new restaurants achieve. Chef Sean Turner’s menu is focused on Italian-inspired entrées cooked in a wood-fired oven. Perhaps the best and most decadent example is the Roman Gnocco, featuring a seared semolina flour cake of sorts topped with pork ragù, béchamel and melted pecorino-Romano in a presentation reminiscent of lasagna. –L.M.

In April, owner RJ Xu, chef Nisa York and beverage director Ben Bauer opened The Bao in Clayton, Missouri. The menu centers on the eponymous Chinese steamed buns, stacked with traditional fillings like Cantonese char siu pork and more creative, such as brown-butter poached lobster. Bauer brings the same panache to drinks; try the Caught with Your Beard in the Letterbox with aquavit, butternut squash, pepita meringue and a truffled ginger chip. –N.S.

The name Savage belies the refined approach at Logan Ely’s new Fox Park restaurant. Ely established his reputation as a forward-thinking chef with Square1 Project, his underground dinner series. At Savage, Ely’s skill is on full display, with 20 seats positioned in a ring around the kitchen, where he cooks and plates in full view of diners. The menu changes frequently, but expect beautifully executed dishes highlighting elevated cooking techniques. –Catherine Neville

yellowbellystl.com / photo by mabel suen

louiedemun.com / photo by jacklyn meyer

thebaostl.com / photo by mabel suen

savagestl.com / photo by amanda wilens

Billie-Jean

J. Devoti Trattoria

Cinder House

The Benevolent King

When you walk into Billie-Jean, you feel as though you’ve entered a dream – Zoë Robinson’s dream, to be exact. Every detail has been considered, from the inky black walls and the shiny black equipment in the open kitchen to the black-and-white photography that punctuates the space. The food, however, is far from black and white. Robinson and long-time chef Ny Vongsaly have created a menu that nods to flavors they both love, from sesame-lacquered eggplant with crispy tofu to braised short ribs with horseradish-citrus gremolata and fingerlings. –C.N.

Five Bistro was one of the most acclaimed restaurants in St. Louis, but after more than a decade, chef-owner Anthony Devoti wanted to try something new. Enter J. Devoti Trattoria, which still features Devoti’s devotion to local, seasonal ingredients, this time with a decidedly Italian focus. Something as simple as cheese ravioli is decadent under Devoti’s deft hand, featuring housemade pasta, Baetje Farms goat cheese, Parmigiano-Reggiano, ricotta, JT Gelineau oyster mushrooms, white wine and herb butter. –N.S.

Last summer, chef Gerard Craft, the city’s first James Beard award winner, debuted Cinder House at Four Seasons St. Louis. The restaurant features a wood-fired, Brazilian-inspired menu in collaboration with executive sous chef Michael Fricker. Dishes like Dia’s Cheese Bread with country ham, lardo and pickles from the late Niche are on offer, as is a take on feijoada,with pork, braised beef, black beans, rice, kale, chimichurri and orange. Inspired by the cooking of Craft's beloved childhood nanny, Dia, Cinder House brims with love for all she taught him. –N.S.

At The Benevolent King, award-winning St. Louis chef and restaurateur Ben Poremba serves a range of globally inspired fare rooted in Moroccan cuisine. Menu items range from chicken tagine with olives, preserved lemon, caramelized onions and turmeric rice; lamb meatballs with smoked tomato sauce; and grilled carrots with urfa biber pepper, elderflower vinegar, chile oil and yogurt. Dishes are complemented by creative cocktails like the Commander of the Faithful, with mezcal, Chianto vermouth, cynar, Averna Amaro and orange Curaçao. –L.M.

billiejeanstl.com / photo by jacklyn meyer

jdevoti.com / photo by mabel suen

cinderhousestl.com / photo by emily teater

thebenevolentking.com /

Nippon Tei

photo by mabel suen

58hundred

In the past year, chef Nick Bognar has transformed Nippon Tei in Ballwin, Missouri, so much that this well-known mainstay has made our list. To experience Bognar’s modern approach to sushi, go for the nigiri omakase. Be sure to try non-sushi items, too, like a roasted-seaweed salad with lotus root; chile-garlic noodles with slow-cooked short ribs, black garlic and togarashi gremolata; or yam tempura with marshmallow cream. –C.N.

58hundred is the rare place where meat- and plant-eaters walk away equally satisfied. Developed by the chefs behind The Block in Webster Groves, Missouri, 58hundred’s commitment to in-house butchery shines in items like the Braunschweiger board with grain mustard, garlic mayo and grilled country bread, but you can also enjoy smoke and vinegar beets or a grilled three-cheese sandwich accented with portabellas. –H.R.

nippon.teistl.com / photo by spencer pernikoff

58hundred.com / photo by mabel suen

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PICTURED FROM LEFT TO RIGHT AND TOP TO BOTTOM: Yellowbelly, Louie, The Bao, Savage, Billie-Jean, J. Devoti Trattoria, Cinder House, The Benevolent King, Nippon Tei and 58hundred / j a nu a ry 2 019

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ST. LOUIS |

If Yellowbelly is Tim Wiggins’ love letter to rum, St. Louis had better start working on a love letter of its own to Tim Wiggins. The bartender made a name for himself at Retreat Gastropub, the rustic, outdoors-inspired bar and restaurant where the cocktails are taken just as seriously as the food. This past fall, he opened Yellowbelly, a “sea and spirits” concept – and the city’s first rum bar – with Retreat co-owner Travis Howard. As co-owner and bar manager, Wiggins is committed to changing guests’ perceptions of rum, which he says often gets a bad rap; in reality, the spirit manages to be super approachable yet complex at the same time. Yellowbelly is truly unlike anything else in St. Louis right now, and that’s largely a testament to Wiggins’ skill and creativity. Reach for a snap pea Daiquiri (trust us) or order a flight of sipping rums based on location before getting to work on that love letter. –H.R. yellowbellystl.com

Ben Welch When the owners of The Wheelhouse decided to open an ambitious new barbecue concept in a city already saturated with quality ‘cue, they knew exactly who to call. Although chef Ben Welch started out in the industry as a dishwasher, he went on to graduate from Johnson & Wales in South Carolina and cooked at Emeril Lagasse’s NOLA Restaurant in New Orleans. In St. Louis, he’s earned a reputation among local diners and chefs alike for the St. Louis-style ribs, tender smoked turkey and critically acclaimed brisket at his Big Baby Q and Smokehouse in Maryland Heights, Missouri. Welch closed the restaurant last month to focus on his new venture, The Midwestern Meat & Drink, in collaboration with The Wheelhouse partners; the full-service barbecue restaurant is slated to open in Downtown St. Louis in March. If his past work is any indication, you’d better start lining up now. –H.R. facebook.com/midwesternstl 66

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Anne Lehman When you ask some of the best chefs and bartenders in St. Louis about their secret weapons on the job, more than a few will answer with a person: Anne Lehman of Dirty Girl Farms. Lehman is well known in the industry for growing unique edible flowers and herbs such as pineapple sage, Cuban oregano and tulsi basil in the backyard of her Tower Grove South home. Lehman also uses her fresh herbs to make tinctures and bitters for local bartenders: If you’ve dined at restaurants like Vicia or Elaia, or sipped drinks at Confluence Kombucha or Planter’s House, you’ve likely tasted her work. At the height of summer, Lehman grows as many as 118 herbs; in the winter, she grows a smaller number inside her home. –L.M. facebook.com/dirtygirlfarms

Matt McGuire Warm and welcoming hospitality can be just as crucial to a memorable dining experience as what comes out of the kitchen. That simple idea has guided Matt McGuire’s career; the former director of service for Gerard Craft’s Niche Food Group, McGuire has been taking care of St. Louis diners for more than two decades. At Louie, which he opened in Clayton, Missouri, in 2017, the atmosphere is casual and convivial yet sophisticated and luxurious – a difficult balance to strike. The same goes for the food, which at first may seem simple, yet incredible care and attention go into every dish. And that’s at the heart of McGuire’s hospitality: After a long meal at Louie, happy and full of delicious food, you personally feel that care and attention, too. –L.M. louiedemun.com

Rex Hale Chef Rex Hale has long been known in St. Louis for his work with Lodging Hospitality Management, including restaurants like Boundary and 360 St. Louis. An early proponent of cooking with seasonal, local ingredients, Hale opened Bakers & Hale in Godfrey, Illinois, last year with longtime friend and colleague Kelsi Baker Walden. A typical offering from the debut menu was the heirloom tomato salad: Beautifully plated with simple ingredients yet rich flavors, the dish topped heirloom tomatoes with Marcoot Jersey Creamery mozzarella, herbs and a white-wine vinaigrette. Hale left the restaurant in late December, yet remains committed to local ingredients and farmers. We can't wait to see what he does next.–N.S.

PHOTO of anne lehman by jennifer silverberg. photo of Matt McGuire by j. pollack photography. photo of ben welch by gregg goldman. photo of rex hale by hillary levin. Remaining photos courtesy of sources.

Tim Wiggins

| 2019


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| 2019

KANSAS CITY cream cheese cake with peppermint meringue, dark chocolate sauce and red velvet ice cream

Lyndsi Demicco < Kate Frick > Behind the slender bar with mismatched chairs at the myers Hotel Bar in Tonganoxie, Kansas, you’ll find the smiling face of Kate Frick. She took over ownership of the historic 1879 property – an acre that includes the hotel building, a cabin and a barn – in 2017, after opening the bar as a tenant in 2015. Today, Frick’s work extends beyond bartending: She’s also the groundskeeper, the maid and the handywoman, and she wouldn’t have it any other way. In the evenings, Frick can still be found mixing creative craft cocktails. If available on your visit, try the Golden Dawn, with rum, crème de banana, lime juice, passion fruit bitters and whole milk (or your preferred milk substitute). Frick does it all in the spirit of Mollie Myers, the hotel's original owner and a veritable pioneer woman who ran the space by herself for half a century. –Natalie Gallagher

Lyndsi DeMicco had been a member of the Bluestem kitchen for four years when, in 2015, chef-owners Colby and Megan Garrelts promoted her to pastry chef – a position that Megan herself held when the lauded restaurant opened in 2004. Although pastry wasn’t her comfort zone, DeMicco’s

eventual goal is to open her own high-end catering company, so expertise with desserts was essential. After three years working on Bluestem’s pastry program and mentoring with Megan, DeMicco has transformed into a pastry talent in her own right. DeMicco relishes working with seasonal ingredients and juxtaposing sweet and savory flavors: One of her fall desserts featured pumpkin ice cream, salted caramel crémeux, butternut squash purée and spiced pepitas. –N.G.

bluestemkc.com / photos by zach bauman

facebook.com/myershotelbar / photo by zach bauman

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<Zaid Consuegra

<Kara Anderson

Zaid Consuegra has mastered the art of doing a lot with a little. He opened Pirate’s Bone in Kansas City almost five years ago with a budget of just $2,000. He bought his first espresso machine at a garage sale, and the original iteration of the coffee menu had just five items. Since then, the shop has evolved into a casual breakfast and lunch spot, and the menu – from coffee to entrées – is entirely plant-based. Born in Mexico City, Consuegra takes inspiration for much of his menu from Latin American food and drink. His proudest creation is the veggie burger, with a patty made from beets and oats on an activated charcoal bun; it’s the most popular menu item at Pirate’s Bone and one that Consuegra is looking forward to serving to a broader audience when he eventually opens a full restaurant. –N.G.

Agriculture is in Kara Anderson’s blood. She grew up in the farming community of Centralia, Missouri, and originally attended college for agriculture education. She always planned to work in the food industry – just never as a chef. In July, Anderson, who has spent the past seven years working in kitchens in Kansas City, became executive chef at The Sundry. The business features three components: The kitchen prepares breakfast and lunch Monday through Friday and brunch on weekends, the market sells housemade goods like pickles and charcuterie, and a catering service offers lunch, happy hour and dinner. That’s a lot of moving parts for a first-time executive chef, but Anderson flourishes in the fast-casual setting; she sees it as a way to make farm-to-table dining even more accessible. –N.G.

piratesbone.com / photo by teresa floyd

thesundry.com / photo by zach bauman


. Ryan Wellfort

.Rachel Rinas

Vincent Parades and Ryan Wellfort met in the kitchen at the Marriott Hotel in Kansas City, and for the better part of a decade, they’ve been coworkers and best friends. At Black Sheep + Market, the new sister restaurant of The Farmhouse in Kansas City, the two are flourishing with total creative control. They run Black Sheep, handling day-to-day ordering for the restaurant and retail market, as well as menu R&D. Parades and Wellfort’s primary inspiration is championing local farmers for the menu and market, where diners can purchase farm-fresh products. The all-day breakfast menu includes chicken-fried chicken and biscuits and gravy; there’s a Kansas City hot brown on toast for lunch and pot roast on the dinner menu. –N.G.

Rachel Rinas learned early in her career that classical French cuisine wasn’t for her. So she left culinary school, opting instead to learn through travel, trial and error and observation. In the decade since, she’s developed an impressive and varied résumé, including years dedicated to whole-animal butchery at The Local Pig in Kansas City and learning how to expertly cook fresh fish and seafood at Jarocho Pescados y Mariscos. Unafraid to tackle something completely out of her comfort zone, Rinas launched Karbón at Parlor food hall last year. Her cooking boldly tackles the rich flavors of the eastern Mediterranean and Latin America – think harissa chilaquiles, a Mexican street corn salad spiced with za’atar or musakhan carnitas. Rinas eventually wants to move Karbón into a brick-and-mortar with an expanded menu. -April Fleming

& Vincent Parades

blacksheepon39th.com

parlorkcmo.com / photo by zach bauman

photo by zach bauman

>Keeyoung Kim Sura Eats started as a pop-up series so chef-owner Keeyoung Kim could test recipes for his Korean-style rice bowls. Today, Sura Eats has a home inside Parlor, the new food hall in Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District; the small and rotating menu includes a couple shareable items – a kimchi pancake, a stir-fried rice cake – and several decadent rice bowls including bibimbap. Kim’s menu reflects the food his mother cooked for their family when he was growing up. Occasionally, this means introducing traditional Korean dishes to diners who might stumble over the pronunciation when they order it – which doesn’t bother Kim at all. He’s proud to have a hand in helping Kansas City embrace diversity in its food scene, and eventually, he’d like to expose the Sura Eats brand and menu to different cities in the region. In the meantime, Parlor patrons can expect to see the menu expanding to serve even more classic Korean dishes. –N.G.

suraeats.com / photo by zach bauman

Brent Gunnels < Brent Gunnels has worked in and managed some of the best kitchens in Kansas City, including Julep and Il Lazzarone. Most recently, he was chef de cuisine at Freshwater, working closely with chef-owner Calvin Davis to create unique flavors using local ingredients like Missouri trout, fermented peppers and frog legs. Gunnels left Freshwater late last year to focus on Cult of Pi with partners Shane Burton and Savannah Bennett; the trio hope to open the wood-fired pizzeria in the Kansas City area in the next two to three years. The wood-fired oven in Gunnels’ backyard currently serves as his test kitchen, and he’s even inviting diners to join him and challenging them to bring odd ingredient combinations to inspire menu R&D. One recent success combined squid, octopus, clam and oysters with mozzarella, mascarpone, pineapple, Spam and marjoram. –A.F.

pi.church / photo by zach bauman / j a nu a ry 2 019

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kansas city |

| 2019

Best New Restaurants Brookside Poultry Co. At Brookside Poultry Co. in the East Brookside neighborhood, chef-owner Charles D’Ablaing keeps the menu simple and Southern-inspired. In addition to his 48-hour, sour cream-brined fried chicken and famous shrimp and grits, he also serves up spit-roasted whole duck and chicken. Complete your meal with sides like thick-cut fries and fried green tomatoes. –Jenny Vergara

The Russell

Freshwater

A culinary collaboration between chef Amante Domingo and cupcake entrepreneur Heather White, The Russell started as a catering company and has grown into a bustling bakery and lunch spot in Kansas City. Using a wood-fired grill, Domingo creates rustic dishes full of flavor, including platters like sumac-rubbed beef tenderloin, roasted chicken and a grilled half-pound beef-peppercorn burger. –J.V.

Chef-owner Calvin Davis’ rebooted Freshwater continues to surprise and delight. Here, simple, seasonal ingredients shine in creative preparations, such as duck three ways (roasted breast, leg roulade and prosciutto) with beets, persimmons and raddichio. Davis also offers one of the most interesting and affordable tasting menus in town: For just $55, guests are treated to 10 courses inspired by the seasons. –J.V.

Black Sheep + Market At Black Sheep + Market in Kansas City, chef-owner Michael Foust and chefs Vincent Parades and Ryan Wellfort aim to serve high-quality, farm-to-table breakfast and lunch fare at affordable prices. Diners can even expect the daily soup, vegan dishes and rotating pot roast special to be made with produce harvested from local farms that same day. –A.F. blacksheepon39th.com

bkspoultryco.com / photo by anna petrow

therussellonmain.com / photo by zach bauman

freshwaterkc.com /

photo by anna petrow

Golden Ox

The Savoy at 21c

After a four-year hiatus, legendary Kansas City restaurant Golden Ox reopened in the Stockyards District last year. Before closing in late 2014, the 65-year-old steakhouse was famous for its prime cuts and strong drinks; now, chef-owner Wes Gartner and co-owner Jill Myers have updated the menu with nine cuts of beef, from an 8-ounce flatiron to a bone-in, dry-aged 34-ounce rib eye and local pork chops. General manager and sommelier Richard Garcia offers a unique wine list, and classic cocktails are also available. –J.V.

Led by executive chef Joe West, The Savoy at 21c serves classic American midcentury dishes that play on Kansas City’s nostalgia for the late Savoy Hotel and Grill. Updated throwbacks on the ever-changing menu have included steak Diane with Pierre Ferrand cognac sauce, escargot with mâitre d'hôtel butter wrapped in fresh tortellini, and, of course, prime rib, all reimagined in lighter preparations that deliver the same classic flavors. Desserts and drinks are similarly superb; don't skip out on either. –J.V.

For chef Jonathan Justus and business partner Camille Eklof, 2018 was a year of change. They opened the highly anticipated Black Dirt in Kansas City and closed Justus Drugstore, their acclaimed fine-dining restaurant in Smithville, Missouri. Now solely focused on Black Dirt, the couple are serving the same locally inspired fare in a more casual setting. Dishes range from Missouri Caesar salad and blackened catfish to heartier items like local pork chops and a rabbit terrine. –J.V.

goldenoxkc.com / photo by anna petrow

thesavoykc.com / photo by anna petrow

blackdirtkc.com / photo by anna petrow

photo by april fleming

Noah’s Cupboard

Black Dirt

Last year, chef Nick Martinkovic opened Noah’s Cupboard in Weston, Missouri, bringing his years of experience in lauded kitchens across the country to the close-knit riverfront town. The tiny dining room seats only 20 for dinner, so reservations are strongly encouraged. Martinkovic’s talents especially shine in vegetable-forward fare like the umami eggplant dip, turnip “ceviche” tostada and pappardelle with English peas, black garlic and maitake mushrooms. –J.V. eatnoahscupboard.com

Caffetteria Modern Cafe and Marketplace

photo by anna petrow

The Restaurant at 1900

Caffetteria Modern Cafe and Marketplace, the latest concept from Jo Marie Scaglia, owner of The Mixx in Kansas City and Overland Park, Kansas, welcomes guests with cheerful pastel walls and gleaming white marble tables. Caffetteria’s menu is as eclectic and modern as its interior, featuring create-your-own plates with a choice of Tuscan rotisserie chicken, grilled steak or salmon, plus tuna poke bowls, pizza and ancient-grain salads. –J.V.

Located inside The Building at 1900, The Restaurant at 1900 debuted last year under the direction of executive chef Linda Duerr. Her menu of modern American fare feels familiar and comforting without being too casual. To get a taste, try the seasonal grilled cheese; last fall, it featured aged white Cheddar, spinach, artichoke, porcini-garlic jam and sesame semolina. The wine list features both local and international selections as curated by beverage director Doug Frost, a master sommelier and American Master of Wine. –J.V.

caffetteriamoderncafe.com / photo by anna petrow

therestaurantat1900.com / photo by anna petrow

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PICTURED FROM LEFT TO RIGHT AND TOP TO BOTTOM: Brookside Poultry Co., The Russell, Freshwater, Black Sheep + Market, Golden Ox, The Savoy at 21c, Black Dirt, Noah's Cupboard, Caffetteria Modern Cafe

and Marketplace and The Restaurant at 1900

/ j a nu a ry 2 019

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kansas city |

Carlos Mortera

thebitekc.co facebook.com/poiokc

Ryan Brazeal & Jessica Armstrong By any measure, the original location and iteration of Ryan Brazeal and Jessica Armstrong’s restaurant, Novel, was a success. Yet what Brazeal and Armstrong truly wanted was a space of their own, with a larger dining room and a kitchen designed to Brazeal’s meticulous specifications. Realizing this dream took far longer to complete than the couple anticipated, but the result was well worth it: The new Novel features more approachable yet still elegant dishes on the dinner and dessert menus. On the savory side, try Brazeal’s beef cheek and bone marrow ravioli made with nettles in the pasta dough. For a sweet last bite, Armstrong’s talents shine in dishes like Missouri Concord grape cheesecake with peanut butter butterscotch. –A.F. novelkc.com 72

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John C. Smith

In 2017, chef John C. Smith brought the Southern meat-and-three tradition to Kansas City with his lunch and brunch joint, EJ’s Urban Eatery. Although EJ’s is casual, the food reflects Smith’s classically trained background as a chef; he’s worked in fine-dining restaurants including Tom Colicchio’s Craft. At EJ’s, you pick a meat (espresso-rubbed smoked brisket, ribs with hollandaise or blackened catfish) and three sides (think braised collard greens and dirty rice). There’s nothing Smith won’t try smoking – beyond ribs, he’s done shrimp, salmon and even carrots. In the future, he hopes to expand EJ’s catering business, maybe open for dinner and bottle his signature white barbecue sauce. –N.G. ejsurbaneatery.com

Linda Duerr Linda Duerr has been in the kitchen for almost 40 years. Lidia Bastianich first brought her to Kansas City to open Lidia’s Kansas City, and she later worked at Frondizi and JJ’s. She's spent the past seven years at The River Club, where only a privileged few were able to enjoy her food. That changed last year with The Restaurant at 1900, though, where her modern American menu avoids fads in favor of simple ingredients to great effect. She adds roasted pheasant sausage to her minestrone, for example, along with herbs, sweet potato, red kale, canary beans and ditalini pasta. She’s serving the best food of her very impressive career – you won’t want to miss it. –Nancy Stiles

therestaurantat1900.com

Vaughn Good Vaughn Good and his wife and business partner, Kristine Hull, aren’t afraid to take risks. In 2018, they shuttered their beloved Lawrence, Kansas, restaurant, Hank Charcuterie, to open Fox and Pearl in Kansas City. When completed, Fox and Pearl will feature an expansive patio, open hearth in the dining room and a wood-fired cooking station. As the buildout is being completed at 2143 Summit St., Good and Hull are operating out of the former Novel space at 815 W. 17th St. As he did at Hank, Good butchers all of the meat served in-house and sources as much product locally as possible. Start a meal with house charcuterie like foie gras boudin blanc before moving on to entrées like rabbit pot pie. –A.F. foxandpearlkc.com

photos of Ryan brazeal and jessica armstrong by zach bauman, photo of vaughn good by william hess. Remaining photos courtesy of sources.

When people ask Carlos Mortera what kind of food he serves at The Bite in River Market, he never knows quite how to answer. At the end of the day, he says, it’s a sandwich shop. Yet anyone who’s grabbed lunch at The Bite knows there’s so much more to it than that. Born in Mexico, Mortera blends traditional Latin American flavors – think chicken carnitas and Chihuahua cheese – with Korean and Asian ingredients. The El MoMo, for example, plates roasted pork, pickled onions, cilantro, cucumber and a habanero-hoisin sauce on fresh bread. Mortera believes that sandwiches are the ideal way to introduce people to new flavors, and that’s what he – along with his brother and sous chef, Julio – aim to do. Five years after opening The Bite, business is booming, and Mortera is thinking beyond sandwiches. He's considering a second location of The Bite in south Kansas City, and in November, he opened POI-Ō in the Westside neighborhood, featuring a menu packed with Mexican-Asian flavors. –N.G.

| 2019


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| 2019

citrus and goat cheese salad

SPRINGFIELD, MO.

, Cosmo Kwon In the restaurant industry, chefs often have to be their own accountants, marketing directors and HR managers. As managing partner and director of operations at Gawi Bawi Bo food group in Springfield, Cosmo Kwon is trying to change the status quo. A big believer in personal development, Kwon works to create environments where chefs, general managers and staff can find opportunities to grow and learn in every aspect of the restaurant industry, whether that be cooking, marketing or accounting. Currently, Kwon oversees the Springfield and Nixa, Missouri, locations of Hinode Japanese Steakhouse and Sushi plus Bawi Korean BBQ ; together, the restaurants employ nearly 150 people in the area. Kwon is a progressive thinker who’s always researching new ways to make his restaurants ideal places to work by offering perks like paid-time off – often not a guarantee in the restaurant industry – and advancement opportunities. –Tessa Cooper

bawikbbq.com / photo by tessa cooper

<Cassidy Rollins In 2016, Cassidy Rollins was bartending at now-shuttered Barley, Wheat & Rye in Springfield when she started talking to chef Daniel Ernce. Their conversation eventually led to collaborative pop-up dinner series Progress, which expanded into a brick-and-mortar restaurant last fall. Rollins manages the front of house at Progress, where she says her goal is to make patrons feel just as comfortable as they would if they were dining at home. Before the restaurant opened, Rollins sent servers home with materials to study, covering everything from potential dish modifications to ideal drink pairings. That same precision and care for quality hospitality guides her work today, from ensuring the staff knows where every ingredient served in the restaurant was sourced from to expertly cleaning wine glasses so that they sparkle before you take your first sip. –T.C.

springfieldprogress.com portrait by tessa cooper / dish photo by ana elliott

. Jimmy Rollins For Jimmy Rollins, no cocktail is complete without one component: excellent hospitality. Rollins entered the Springfield spotlight last summer when he announced plans for The Hepcat, a jazz club and eatery he’s opening with bartender Dylan Fox this year. In the meantime, he's tending bar at MudLounge and The Backlot located at Alamo Drafthouse while he and Fox work on The Hepcat. Rollins has been developing his cocktail clout for years, though: He earned a hospitality degree from the University of Missouri and previously worked behind the bar at the late, great Barley, Wheat & Rye. Rollins also serves on the Springfield Chapter of the United States Bartender Guild’s Board of Directors. Between his work with the Guild and forthcoming The Hepcat, Rollins is positioned to leave a lasting impact on Springfield’s cocktail culture. –Lillian Stone

drafthouse.com/springfield mudhousecoffee.com/mudlounge-drinks photo by tessa cooper

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, Cat Lix Cat Lix’s entry into the restaurant industry was born of necessity, yet quickly grew into a passion. As a homeless teen, Lix knew working in a restaurant could give her access to food and income to survive. Today, her culinary talents are on display as the chef at Missouri Spirits. Thanks to her years spent in Tampa, Florida, you’ll find Caribbean influence in dishes like her shrimp po’boy and Cuban sandwich, along with classic comfort foods like shepherd’s pie and a smothered opened-face roast beef sandwich. Lix also tries to incorporate the distillery’s spirits into her dishes as much as possible, which makes for easy pairings. Her hope is to one day own her own restaurant and use it as an avenue to mentor LGBTQ youth. –T.C.

From Elegant to Casual, Buffet to BBQ Kenrick’s is priced to fit your needs, with the service that you deserve. With Over 30 Years of Experience ♦ Elegant Buffet Catering ♦ Box Lunches ♦ Shrimp Boils ♦ Company Picnics ♦ Luau ♦ Full Bar Options ♦ Employee Appreciations ♦ Whole Hog Roast ♦ Equipment Rental

missourispirits.com / photo by ana elliott

Kenrick’s Meats and Catering

4324 Weber Rd., St. Louis, MO 63123

Nathan Murphy > Every Monday and Thursday, a light snow appears to fall on The Coffee Ethic’s patio. Upon further inspection, it’s not snow at all – it’s coffee chaff, the small brown husks that fall off of coffee beans during the roasting process. The flurries of chaff are accompanied by a deliciously strong, oaky aroma, signs that general manager and head roaster Nathan Murphy is roasting a fresh batch of coffee beans. Even when he’s not grappling with flurries of coffee chaff, Murphy’s commitment to craft is obvious: He’s created espresso programs at several local restaurants including Progress and The Order, and he recently kicked off a coffee subscription program to make The Coffee Ethic’s blends more accessible nationwide. –L.S.

314-631-2440 • kenricks.com

$100 off Full Service Catering for 100 people or more

Must present coupon at time of booking.

Don’t miss a

single serving!

thecoffeeethic.com / photo by tessa cooper

Murphy worked at The Roasterie in Kansas City before The Coffee Ethic.

subscribe to Feast’s weekly enewsletter for delicious content covering KC, stL and mid-mo dining. Visit feastmagazine.com to subscribe and you’ll get fresh content delivered to your inbox every Wednesday!

Missouri Botanical Garden

Orchid Nights Febuary 14 and 21 | 6 to 8 p.m. Immerse yourself in a tropical oasis brimming with vibrant blooming orchids at the Orchid Show while you sample spirits and take in live music. Tickets include admission to the Orchid Show, one complimentary drink and samples from our vendors.

$20 General | $15 Member | More info at mobot.org/orchidnights

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springfield, mo. |

| 2019

Best New Restaurants

Greek Belly

Progress

Last year, John Tsahiridis opened Greek Belly in Springfield, serving perfect pita, souvlaki and rotisserie-roasted meats. Tsahiridis, a native of Greece, outfitted the restaurant’s décor after a rustic Greek village and the Greek islands. On the menu, you'll find flavorful favorites like gigandes, a baked-bean dish with Feta cheese and a hearty tomato sauce; saganaki, pan-seared aged Greek cheese with pita and lemon; and gyros with freshly carved pork or chicken, tomato, onion and tzatziki. –L.S.

Progress, which started as a pop-up dinner series two years ago, has now evolved into the newest fine-dining restaurant in Springfield. Fans of the pop up can expect the same creative and modern take on Midwest food and drink from chef Daniel Ernce and beverage director Michael Schmitz. Dishes range from harissa-braised beef for two and butternut squash shawarma to Ernce’s take on a classic fried chicken sandwich with French curry mayo and dill pickles. –Ana Elliott

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Van Gogh’s Eeterie

Zapata Tequila Bar and Grill

Karai Ramen + Handroll

When Van Gogh’s Eeterie opened in Springfield last March, chaos ensued. The bright, spacious restaurant was the first in the area to serve traditional Dutch dishes – most of which sold out within hours of opening for several weeks. The menu, developed by owner Joseph Gidman and former chef Joe Duncan, features favorites like pannenkoeken, a thin Dutch pancake with sweet or savory toppings, and stroopwafel, a popular Dutch cookie. –L.S.

Focused on Tex-Mex fare and traditional Mexican dishes plus tequila cocktails, Zapata Tequila Bar and Grill is a welcome addition to the Springfield dining scene. The menu boasts street tacos, tamales, enchiladas and the house specialty, fajitas. Try the molcajete fajitas with grilled steak, chicken, shrimp or cactus topped with queso fresco and a sweet chipotle sauce. Pair your meal with a mango-jalapeño or raspberry Margarita. –A.E.

At Karai Ramen + Handroll in Springfield, the signature ramen starts with a base of housemade tonkotsu broth before adding noodles, wood-ear mushrooms, spring onions and your choice of pork, chicken or tofu. From there, customize your bowl with add-ons like extra spice or a soft-boiled egg. Karai has also brought hand rolls to Springfield; diners can eat the open-faced rolls with their hands or fold it in half for more of a sushi burrito presentation. –A.E.

greekbelly.com

springfieldprogress.com

vangoghseeterie.com

facebook.com/ zapatatequilabarandgrill

photo by ana Elliott

photo by starboard & port creative

photo by starboard & port creative

photo by ana elliott

feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 1 9

facebook.com/karairamen photo by ana elliott


photo of wes johnson by jonathan gayman. photo of rogan howitt by starboard & port creative. photo of joseph gidman by starboard & port creative. Remaining photos courtesy of sources.

Rogan Howitt

Wes Johnson Wes Johnson spent his childhood near Springfield, but it took working in restaurants in Seattle and St. Louis to find his current culinary path. Johnson returned to the Springfield area in 2013 to open Metropolitan Farmer, the wildly popular, now-shuttered farm-to-table restaurant. Fans of Johnson’s locally minded comfort food can now get their fix at Black Market Smokehouse. Located near the Missouri State University campus, Black Market Smokehouse has quickly garnered a following for its expertly smoked meats, including brined brisket, dry-rubbed chicken and pulled pork. Johnson’s touch is especially noticeable in Black Market’s sides – think pit beans seasoned with apple pie filling for a welcome hint of sweetness. –L.S.

Rogan Howitt has been a familiar face in the Springfield cocktail scene for 13 years. Most days, Howitt can be seen slinging creative daiquiris behind the bar at The Golden Girl Rum Club, which he owns with Joshua Widner, Emma Chapman and Trey George. And now the Jamaican rum expert is taking his cocktail expertise to new heights as the beverage director of Good Spirits & Co., a new consulting firm working to heighten the area's dining and cocktail culture, founded with Widner. Current projects include Best of Luck Beer Hall, a much-anticipated European beer hall opening in Springfield this month. –L.S. goodspiritsandco.com

Rogan Howitt, one of this year’s Industry Innovators in Springfield, is Feast's new The Mix columnist. Turn to p. 29 to see what cocktail he’s recommending this month.

blackmarket-smokehouse.com

Claire & Joseph Gidman Claire and Joseph Gidman have played a major role in expanding the food-and-drink scene in Springfield. For years, the mother-and-son team have run beloved Cafe Cusco and Chabom Tea + Spices in Springfield’s historic Commercial Street district; in early 2018, they debuted Van Gogh’s Eeterie, a Dutch-inspired restaurant, also on C-Street. All of the concepts have been largely inspired by Joseph’s travels to South America and Europe and his seeing a void in the local market for these types of cuisines. So far, his bets have all paid off: Cafe Cusco, Chabom and Van Gogh’s have become three of Springfield’s most popular destinations. They’ve also contributed to the revitalization of the Commercial Street district, which has seen major growth since Cafe Cusco opened in 2013. –L.S. cafecusco.com chabomteaspice.com vangoghseeterie.com

Stuart Murr From overseeing day-to-day brewing operations to equipment engineering and upkeep, Stuart Murr has a hand in almost everything at award-winning Mother’s Brewing Co. in Springfield. Murr has been with Mother’s since before day one: At the time, Murr was in sustainable architecture, and Mother's founder Jeff Schrag hired him for the brewery’s buildout. Nearly 10 years later, Murr has ensured that Mother’s always keeps innovating and stays relevant with emerging beer styles and trends. With recent releases like Nudie Suit, a Porter with big chocolate malt flavor and body combined with “flashy American hop bitterness,” Mother’s continues to set itself apart in Springfield’s ever-growing brewery scene – as well as the Midwest’s. –L.S. mothersbrewing.com / j a nu a ry 2 019

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| 2019

columbia, mo.

call down the thunder:

Rye whiskey, spicy infused vodka, Thai chile syrup, lemon, The Bitters Club chile bitters and Angostura bitters

, Jess Bowman The night before her first shift at Cafe Berlin, Jess Bowman was searching YouTube for tutorials on how to chop onions. Two years later, after mentoring under former head chef Jamie Davis, she’s risen to the top spot at the Columbia favorite – and she's now a pro at chopping any vegetable you throw her way. Bowman has worked to maintain Cafe Berlin’s longstanding legacy while growing relationships with local farmers and producers. Try dishes like a smoked baby carrot and fennel salad with massaged beet greens, roasted and pickled baby beets, herbs, garlicky yogurt and a chermoula sauce made with carrot tops and fennel fronds. She’s also started hosting dinners at Three Creeks farm, which supplies a majority of the produce used at the restaurant. –Jessica Vaughn Martin

cafeberlincomo.com photo by drew piester

Frances Harvey > After graduating from college, Frances Harvey snagged a gig serving boozy slushies at Tropical Liqueurs in Columbia. A few years later, curious yet inexperienced with mixing craft cocktails, she interviewed for a bartending position at the then-forthcoming Barred Owl Butcher & Table. Her résumé proved to be an asset: Bar manager Andrew Ruth hired Harvey because of her lack of experience. In the two years since, Harvey has become a “bar star in the making,” according to Ruth, growing from a volume bartender to a skilled mixologist. Working alongside Ruth, Harvey has developed a keen attention to detail and quality. Her drinks are regularly featured on the bar's cocktail menu, including the Call Down the Thunder, a spicy rye whiskey tipple with Thai chiles. –J.V.M.

barredowlbutcher.com / photo by aaron ottis

. Shelly La Fata

Occasionally, on Saturday mornings, La Fata sells frozen ravioli at the Columbia Farmers Market.

Shelly La Fata spent January 2018 reconnecting with her Italian heritage, traveling down the Liguarian coast to visit her grandparents’ native Sicily and learning recipes along the way. The trip had a larger purpose: To further inspire her Columbia pop-up restaurant, Sidebar. Italian-inspired Sidebar is a rare treat, as La Fata spends spring and summer running the festival kitchen for the Ozark Mountain Biscuit food truck. Yet in the fall and winter, you can get a taste of Sidebar at Klik’s or Cafe Berlin, where La Fata serves from-scratch pasta including fist-sized ravioli with fillings like oyster mushroomCabernet and squash-Gorgonzola. Most of Sidebar’s menu highlights plant-based fare; for La Fata, the fun begins with fresh ingredients, some of which are sourced from her neighbor’s garden, plus local farms. –J.V.M.

facebook.com/sidebarcomo photo by keith borgmeyer

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, Crystal Hartman Crystal Hartman honed her pastry skills in bakeries across Asheville, North Carolina, before moving back to the Midwest. In her third year as pastry chef at The Wine Cellar & Bistro in Columbia, she continues to refine her craft through inventive desserts that often use unexpected earthy and savory flavors. Hartman worked at 44 Stone Public House and Broadway Brewery before joining The Wine Cellar, where chef-owner Craig Cyr has helped her grow as a seasonally driven chef. Fresh ingredients – vegetables, in particular – regularly find their way into her desserts, including the Garden Cake, made with grated beets, zucchini and carrots finished with a goat cheese frosting. Hartman eventually hopes to open her own plant-based and vegetable-forward café in town. –J.V.M.

winecellarbistro.com / photo by aaron ottis

Brandon & Whitney Vair > Meriwether Café & Bike Shop in Rocheport, Missouri, has quickly become a favorite stop along the Katy Trail. In spring 2017, chef-owners Brandon and Whitney Vair revived the shuttered trailside café, filling an empty, gray space with vibrant color and rustic, seasonal scratch-made fare. Whitney heads up the pastry program, preparing cardamom-caramel buns, pumpkin muffins, espresso-chocolate scones, cornmeal-pecan cookies and apple Danish. On the savory side, Brandon offers hearty and comforting breakfast, lunch and dinner items like the house-smoked brisket hash with sweet potato, red onion, poblano pepper and a poached egg as well as the Roche-Pork grilled cheese sandwich with aged white Cheddar, Patchwork Family Farms pulled pork, caramelized onions and chipotle-lime aïoli. –J.V.M.

Cage Free Corn Free range timber woodhatspirits.com

meriwethercafeandbikeshop.com / photo by aaron ottis

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columbia, mo. |

| 2019

Best New Restaurants

Jamaican Jerk Hut

Le Bao

I Am Sushi and Grill

Fans of Jamaican Jerk Hut’s vibrant and flavorful food-truck fare can now try an even wider range of dishes at its new brick-and-mortar in Columbia. Chef-owners Rexroy Scott and Collin Russell have added entrées like a stew of oxtail with butter beans served over either white rice or traditional red beans and rice, plus side dishes like steamed callaloo, a leafy green similar to spinach that’s a staple in Jamaican cuisine.

The fluffiness of chef Jina Yoo’s bao buns is on display in more ways than one at her Columbia restaurant, Le Bao. Whimsical illustrations on the dining room walls display buns taking flight as mini airplanes and floating away as balloons. And they are indeed fluffy and light, whether filled with savory flavors – think lobster, fried chicken and Philly cheesesteak – or sweet, like peanut butter and jelly, s’mores or bananas Foster. End your meal with Korean-style shaved ice in flavors like Mango Overload or Matcha Express.

–Katherine Herrick

–K.H.

As the restaurant's name suggests, I Am Sushi and Grill in Columbia focuses on two specialties: sushi rolls and Korean barbecue. Diners at the cozy, dimly lit spot can choose from fresh sashimi or rolls like the best-selling Atkins – with tuna, salmon, escolar, red tobiko, spring mix, avocado, cucumber and pickled radish – or bulgogi with white rice. Chef-owner Kwang Yoo's open kitchen allows guests to watch as their meals are expertly prepared and artfully plated. –K.H.

jamaican-jerk-hut.business.site

lebaoeatery.com

iamsushiandgrill.com

photo by aaron ottis

photo by aaron ottis

photo by aaron ottis

Big Mama Chim’s Noodle House Every summer, Chim’s Thai Kitchen near the Cooper’s Landing campgrounds in Columbia is a seasonal destination for locals. The family that owns Chim’s used to operate a location downtown, and in October, they returned with Big Mama Chim’s Noodle House. Longtime favorites like pad Thai remain, but the focus at the new location is Thai noodle dishes, curries and soups like lemongrass-seafood, tom kha and tom yum kai. –J.V.M.

At The Quarry, owner Mike Pratt brings the flavor and feel of New Orleans to Columbia. Pratt’s love of The Big Easy, where he spent many a Mardi Gras in his college days, inspired the revamp of the basement bar, which has housed a slew of beloved dives over the past few decades. Frozen Irish coffee, a nod to New Orleans famed Café du Monde, is served all day, as are housemade beignets. The lunch and dinner menus feature classics like a fried oyster po’boy, shrimp and crawfish étouffée and, on Fridays, gumbo. –J.V.M.

big-mama-chims-noodle-house. business.site

photo by aaron ottis

photo by aaron ottis

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The Quarry

thequarrybar.com


Jill Rostine Most mornings, while many of Jill Rostine’s customers are still asleep, her brioche dough is rising with the sun. And she’s been up long before that, mixing batches of scones, preparing fillings for sweet and savory morning buns, rolls and muffins to fill the pastry case at Good Food Co. in Columbia. After spending the past 16 years creating inventive pastries in restaurants across central Missouri – including as the longtime pastry chef for Sycamore in Columbia – Rostine finally opened a shop of her own last year. At Good Food Co., pastries and baked goods are made with simple and seasonal flavor combinations, such as cardamom-pecan and fig, blue cheese and walnut. On weekends, the bakery also moonlights as a dessert bar, serving trifles, cakes, pies, tartlets and more. –J.V.M.

Travis Tucker At an early age, Travis Tucker spent weekends and summers helping his grandparents on their farm in southern Missouri. His reverence for food and respect for where it comes from led to a career in the restaurant industry: He opened Bleu Restaurant in Columbia in 2007. After transitioning Bleu into a catering company in 2015, Tucker set his sights eastward, recently putting down roots as Bleu Events at Randall Gallery in Downtown St. Louis. Late last year, Travis opened Pressed, a rooftop bar and event space, in Columbia, atop the building that formerly housed Bleu Restaurant. –J.V.M. facebook.com/pressedcomo

goodfoodcomo.com

Jina Yoo photo of jill rostine by Aaron ottis. Remaining photos courtesy of sources.

Kwang Yoo With the opening of I Am Sushi and Grill in Columbia last year, chef Kwang Yoo is officially a triple-threat restaurateur. Like his other two restaurants in town – I Am Sushi Burrito and Geisha Sushi Bar – I Am Sushi and Grill pulls inspiration from flavors across Asia, namely Japan and Korea. The former comes from his years of working at Wasabi Sushi Bar in St. Louis, while the latter calls back to his family roots. With I Am Sushi Burrito, the fast-casual spot he opened in 2017, Yoo brought the national sushi burrito trend to Columbia, as well as fresh poke bowls and a sampling of the sushi rolls that made him famous at Geisha Sushi Bar. –K.H. geishasushibar.com iamsushiandgrill.com iamsushiburrito.com

Chef Jina Yoo has been exploring Asian-inspired comfort food in Columbia for the past 12 years. At her flagship restaurant, Jina Yoo’s Asian Bistro, dishes range from a bibimbap stir fry to five-spice calamari with a cilantro-soy-ginger sauce. Last year, Yoo narrowed her culinary focus with the opening of Le Bao, which stuffs classic Asian and American comfort foods inside steamed Chinese-style bao buns. Fillings are mostly nontraditional, from Thai-inspired lemongrass chicken to Philly cheesesteak and Yoo’s favorite, crispy fried chicken. Four varieties of ramen are also served, as are playful shareable starters and sides like grilled shishito peppers with a garlic-Parmesan aïoli and bonito flakes. –K.H. jinayoos.com lebaoeatery.com

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Back Burner the

this month, we asked industry pros to answer:

What’s your favorite comfort food?

Vance Hall

co-owner, DRUFF'S Springfield, Missouri "Springfield-style Chinese

food fixes all. "

Libby Crider co-owner

Bryan Sparks executive chef

Adam Wells-Morgan Executive chef and co-owner

Ben Wood executive chef

Suji Grant pastry sous chef

2nd Shift Brewing

39Bevco

Flyover

Banksia

Niche Food Group

St. Louis

kansas city

Columbia, Missouri

kansas city

St. Louis

"My mom’s spinach pie. It’s

"Probably goulash. I have

strong memories of my grandfather cooking that when I was younger and having Sunday family meals. It's such a simple dish, and having that definitely brings back a lot of memories."

“Even after the heavy foods of the holiday season, I still enjoy a great slice of pizza. The Salvatore brothers at Providence Pizza [in Grandview] are doing it right. They make a great thin crust-style that brings me back to my childhood. At the same time, I love to eat the huarache from The Corner Mexican Food in Grandview; the chorizo and sauces are outstanding!”

"Korean duk mandu guk. It’s

kind of a play on a quiche and spanakopita: It’s encased in two pie crusts and baked like a pie. It’s cheesy, spinach-y, awesome goodness. We usually make it with chicken sausage, ricotta and egg. When I came home from the hospital the first time with my daughter, my mom had made that, and I think ate the entire thing in two or three days; it was incredible."

“My ultimate comfort food is chicken-fried steak. And then my other one is red coconut curries. For some reason, that just rings my chime. We have great pan-Asian food here in Columbia, which is awesome. And we have great grocery stores with the supplies you need for it.”

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like a beef broth soup with little Korean dumplings, rice cakes and sometimes glass noodles and seaweed. It’s just what I want when I’m sick, when I’m sad or when it’s cold… I could eat it all the time."

PHOTO BY JESSICA KENNON- SPENCER

springfield-style cashew chicken


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PROCEEDS BENEFITING THE MISSOURI CRAFT BREWERS GUILD.

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Profile for Feast Magazine

January 2019 Feast Magazine  

January marks our annual Tastemakers Issue, where we explore the people and places defining our local flavor. In this issue we feature our a...

January 2019 Feast Magazine  

January marks our annual Tastemakers Issue, where we explore the people and places defining our local flavor. In this issue we feature our a...

Profile for feaststl