January 2022 Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture

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january 2022

midwest

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RISING stars 24 culinary creatives making their mark

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Hit the trail and explore some of the finest brews in the Ozarks.

Sign up for the Coffee Trail mobile platform and start sampling the brews at the best locally-owned purveyors of handcrafted coffee and tea in the Springfield, Missouri area.

Savor the flavors of at least 10 different vendors and get a free limited-edition Ozarks Coffee Trail Mug!

SpringfieldMo.org

Point your smartphone camera at this QR code or go to springfieldmo.org/ozarks-coffee-trail to find out more about the Ozarks Coffee Trail.

“A four-day celebration of art, music, and film, transforming downtown Columbia into a one-of-a-kind creative wonderland.”

true/false film fest

March 3-6, 2022

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truefalse.org

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/ 11 / sugar rush French Breakfast Puffs

/ 12 / the mix

Amaro Caldo

/ 13 / on trend Chile Crisp

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shop here

Baba’s Pantry

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midwest made

Loose-Leaf Tea

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mystery shopper

Suya Spice

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hot blocks

City Foundry STL Food Hall

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healthy appetite

Warm Farro Breakfast Bowl

/ 22 / quick fix Marinated Lamb Shoulder Chops with Olives and Dried Cherries

/ 23 / culinary library Gina Overshiner of Gina’s Vegan A Go Go

/ 24 / crash course Food Processors

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rising stars Meet the up-and-comers destined to make our dining scenes more delicious.

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THURSDAY, FEB. 24, 2022

▶ stl | 01/15 | Schnucks Cooks: Marinated Lamb Shoulder Chops with Olives and Dried Cherries 3 to 6pm; $35; Zoom; nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school In this class, you’ll learn how to make marinated lamb shoulder chops with olives and dried cherries, creamy wild mushroom polenta, sautéed green beans with gremolata and baked apples with oatmeal filling. You’ll also explore the details of a good sauce and learn how to build flavors through a variety of cooking techniques and ingredients.

▶ KC | 01/14-01/23 | Kansas City Restaurant Week KCRestaurantWeek.com

Presented by:

Enjoy Girl Scout Cookie-inspired desserts created by top local pastry chefs and celebrate the achievements of two bold Gold Award Girl Scouts and three Legacy Builders. This year’s event will also include a historic announcement that you don’t want to miss!

Celebrate Kansas City’s premier dining event at hundreds of restaurants throughout the metro area. Show your support for the local restaurant industry and savor some of the finest plates on offer, thanks to special multi-course menus available throughout the week. Plus, a portion of all proceeds benefits Guadalupe Centers.

Purchase tickets at girlscoutsem.org/dessertfirst.

▶ stl | 02/06 | St. Louis Best Bridal Wedding Expo

Sponsors

1pm; $10; The Factory, 17105 N. Outer 40 Road, Chesterfield, Missouri; stltoday.com/ourevents

Individual Legacy Builder

Corporate Legacy Builder

Community Legacy Builder

Cynthia Heath

PNC

St. Louis Zoo

Centene Charitable Foundation • Edward Jones • PNC • A-Mrazek Moving Systems, Inc. • BKD, LLP • Cigna • Husch Blackwell • Afinitas, Inc. • Armanino, LLP • Bayer • CBIZ • Commerce Bank • Cord Moving and Storage Company • Little Brownie Bakers • Mercy • MTM, Inc. • Neal and Kellie Spencer • Palmer & Cay • SWT Design, Inc. • FEAST • Stone Hill Winery

Attendees can meet local wedding vendors and shop bridal looks and trends at this upscale showcase of all things St. Louis weddings.

▶ stl | 02/11 | St. Louis Post-Dispatch Trivia Night 6pm; $280 for a table of 8; Moolah Shrine Center, 12545 Fee Fee Road, St. Louis, Missouri; stltoday.com/trivia Join the St. Louis Post-Dispatch in celebrating the rich history of St. Louis! The program will be led by St. Louis Post-Dispatch’s own Joe Holleman, and guests will have the chance to mingle with various Post-Dispatch columnists. A portion of the event proceeds will benefit 100 Neediest Cases.

▶ stl | 02/24 | Dessert First 6 to 9pm; individual tickets $175; The Chase Park Plaza Royal Sonesta St. Louis, 212 Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri; girlscoutsem.org/dessertfirst For the past 11 years, Dessert First has challenged prominent St. Louis chefs to flex their baking skills and deliver one-of-a-kind Girl Scout cookie-inspired creations.

During the cocktail hour, guests are asked to vote for their favorite desserts. Later, at the formal seated dinner, attendees celebrate the extraordinary achievements and contributions of three Legacy Builders and two amazing Girl Scouts!

­

▶ COMO | 03/03-03/06 | True/False Film Festival passes vary in price and benefits from $50 to $995; truefalse.org True/False is four days of cutting-edge nonfiction film, immersive art, live music and wildly imaginative parties. Transforming downtown Columbia, Missouri, into a unique wonderland, True/False Film Festival invites you to reimagine reality.

*One free kids meal, per adult meal purchased. Dine-in only.

For kids under 12 years old. / j a nu a ry 2 02 2

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Inspired Local Food Culture /

january

midwest

2022

Volume 12 / Issue 01 EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

general manager

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com

Susan Eckert, seckert@feastmagazine.com

managing editor

media Strategist

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com

Erin Wood, ewood@feastmagazine.com

digital editor

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor

Contact Us Feast Media, 901 N. 10th St., St. Louis, MO 63101 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

Mabel Suen

Distribution

Springfield Contributing Editor

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Rich Hudson for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at rhudson@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Tessa Cooper Columbia Contributing Editor

Jessica Vaughn Martin fact checker

Meghan Baker Proofreader

Alecia Humphreys Contributing Writers

Wedding

Jordan Baranowski, Amy Feese, Teresa Floyd, Rogan Howitt, Lauren Quick, Emily Wasserman, Shannon Weber, Gaby Weir Vera

ART Art Director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers

Grab your squad – it’s time to plan.

Meet with St. Louis’ best bridal vendors and sample great food and drinks!

presented by

SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 6 1-4pm at THE FACTORY STL Reserve your spot: STLtoday.com/ourevents

Zach Bauman, Judd Demaline, Travis Duncan, Teresa Floyd, Gregg Goldman, Dean Groover, Riley McCullough, Ben Nickelson, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Pilsen Photo Co-op, J. Pollack Photography, Matthew Seidel, Jennifer Silverberg, Starboard & Port Creative, Cheryl Vaughn Contributing illustrator

Jeremy Berger

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2022 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

on the cover Sierra Eaves, sous chef of Commonwealth in St. Louis, by Judd Demaline table of contents Jhy Coulter, owner of Devoured Pizza in Kansas City, by Zach Bauman

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editor’s letter

can’t think of a better way to kick off a new year than by sharing the stories of those who inspire and motivate us. And that’s exactly what you’ll find in this month’s issue, which spotlights the people pushing boundaries in the local culinary industry by way of our annual list of Rising Stars and Industry Innovators honorees.

Each year, we tip our hats to the up-andcoming talent found in every corner of the local food-and-drink industry, whether that’s the sous chef perfecting the amount of salt in your dish or the cottage baker dropping off a box of goodies on your porch. Although many of these Rising Stars are just starting out in their careers, they’re already making an impact.

Personally, I’m inspired by the creative and resourceful ways this year’s Rising Stars are continuing to navigate the challenges brought on by the pandemic and, in doing so, reshaping our local culinary landscape. Take Marlena “Miko” Blackman of Shots by Miko in Kansas City (p. 31). Although her business – which offers bartenders for hire for special events – has existed for almost a decade, Blackman proved nimble when stay-at-home orders went into effect, adapting her business to offer online cocktail classes and at-home cocktail kits. For many of us who missed the comfort of our favorite neighborhood watering hole during quarantine,

Blackman provided a much-needed way to socialize while staying safe.

There’s also Adam Stroud, who, like many of us, turned to baking amid the pandemic. Thanks to Missouri’s cottage food law, Stroud started making New York-style boiled bagels in flavors such as loaded baked potato and Nutella swirl out of his very own home kitchen. A year and some change later, he’s grown Stroud City Bagels into a full-fledged operation with a commercial kitchen and two part-time employees (p. 37).

Our annual Industry Innovators list (p. 42), meanwhile, spotlights the more seasoned professionals who are using food and drink to strengthen our communities, whether by creating more opportunities for minority-owned businesses or providing mentorship and inclusive workplaces.

As we make resolutions, set our intentions and embrace all the possibilities that come with the beginning of a new year, I hope these stories will inspire and motivate you all year long.

Cheers,

Heather Riske

editor@feastmagazine.com

Peruse local finds, gifts and more, and order your favorite metro area items to be delivered directly to you.

laduenewsboutique.com

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PROMOTION

A NEW WAY TO A HEALTHIER YOU Flipping the calendar and welcoming in January can spark thoughts of New Year resolutions. Each year we spend time setting big goals to make positive changes in our lives often centered around improving our health. I am the first to admit that I have gone through these motions and even with the best intentions have fallen short of reaching my lofty goals. This year I encourage you to take a different approach. Instead of setting a big goal for the year, create small daily tasks to help you take steps in the right direction towards your health. If you aren’t sure where to start, Schnucks is here to help with the launch of our new Good For You program.

To simplify shopping for healthier choices, we’ve partnered with nutrition experts to identify items that are Good For You at Schnucks. Choosing more of these Good For You products is one way to take steps forward on your health journey. To learn more and opt-in to the program go to schnucks.com/goodforyou. Once you opt in you’ll be able to check in on the overall healthiness of your cart. You’ll receive information on your Schnucks receipts along with reports to gauge if you are making progress when it comes to improving the foods in your pantry and fridge.

If you need inspiration on how to include more Good For You items in your meals, pick up a copy of Simply Schnucks magazine. It’s filled with over 40 Good For You recipes, like these roasted chickpea tacos, the whole family will love. The beginning of the year is a great time to set health goals, but if you can make small daily choices that are Good For You, it’s likely these small actions will last past January and transform into lifelong habits.

SMOKY CHICKPEA TACOS SERVES 5 2 Tbsp olive oil

2 cups shredded red cabbage

2 cans Full Circle garbanzo beans

1½ cups shredded carrot

2 tsp ground cumin

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro, divided

2 tsp chili powder

¼ cup lime juice, divided

1 tsp smoked paprika

½ cup plain Greek yogurt

¼ tsp salt

2 tsp adobo sauce

1/8 tsp cayenne pepper

10 corn tortillas

PREPARATION Heat oil In a large skillet, over medium-high heat. Add chickpeas, cumin, chili powder, paprika, salt and cayenne pepper. Stir to combine and cook 8–10 minutes or until chickpeas are golden.

In a medium bowl combine cabbage, carrot, 3 tablespoons cilantro and 2 tablespoons lime juice. In a separate small bowl combine yogurt, remaining lime juice, cilantro and adobo sauce. Add half of the yogurt mixture to slaw and toss to combine. Fill tortillas with chickpeas, slaw and yogurt crema. Top with guacamole, fresh chopped pineapple or your favorite salsa.

SPONSORED CONTENT BY

ALLISON PRIMO

SCHNUCKS REGISTERED DIETITIAN

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French Breakfast Puffs During the winter, who doesn’t love staying in on the weekends and making breakfast in flannel pajamas? These heavenly breakfast puffs are the perfect no-fuss pastry for the occasion. A cross between giant, light-as-air donut holes and tender, spiced cake, they’re blanketed in cinnamon sugar and great companions for your morning cup of coffee.

Story, recipe and photography by Teresa Floyd, food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com

Yields 12 puffs French Breakfast Puffs 2¼ cups all-purpose flour 2¼ tsp baking powder ¾ tsp fine sea salt ½ tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp ground allspice ¹⁄₈ tsp ground nutmeg ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature ¾ cup sugar 1 tsp finely grated orange zest 2 large eggs ¾ cup whole milk Cinnamon-Sugar Coating ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter ¾ cup sugar 1 tsp ground cinnamon ¹⁄₈ tsp ground cardamom / preparation – french breakfast puffs / Preheat oven to 350°F. Generously spray a standard 12-cup muffin pan with nonstick cooking oil spray.

In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, allspice and nutmeg.

Set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat butter, sugar and orange zest until light and fluffy, 3 minutes. Stop and scrape down bowl. Add eggs; on medium, beat until incorporated. On low, alternate between adding ¹⁄₃ of the flour mixture and ½ of the milk, beating between each addition until mostly combined. Once all of the ingredients have been added, increase speed to medium; mix, 10 seconds, to completely combine.

Fill each pan cavity approximately ²⁄₃ full (a spring-loaded ice cream scoop works well here).

Bake, 22 to 23 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Meanwhile, prepare cinnamon-sugar coating.

Remove puffs from oven and set on a wire rack to cool, 1 minute. While still hot, carefully remove each puff from pan, submerge in melted butter and then roll in cinnamon-sugar mixture until well coated. Serve warm with coffee or tea. / preparation – cinnamon-sugar coating / In a heat-resistant bowl, melt butter in microwave. In a separate bowl, combine remaining ingredients.

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amaro caldo

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Amaro Caldo, which translates to “hot bitter,” is rooted in crisp Italian winters. The low-alcohol cocktail spotlights any amaro you add to it, and the simple recipe – which calls for fresh ginger, fresh lemon and hot water – is endlessly customizable.

Incorporate any other herbs or spices that you desire, and switch things up with different amari or a blend of multiple styles.

Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photography by cheryl vaughn

Serves 1 2 slices peeled fresh ginger 6 oz hot water 2 oz amaro ¼ oz fresh lemon juice lemon wheel, for garnish / preparation / Add ginger, water, amaro and lemon juice to your favorite 8-ounce mug; gently stir to combine. Garnish with lemon wheel and sip.

To batch this cocktail and then take it on the go, multiply each ingredient by the serving size and add them to a thermos to keep the mixture warm.

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on trend The Chinese chile crisp from oo’mämē boasts layers of Sichuan flavors and various textures – think tingly Sichuan peppercorns, spicy red pepper flakes, savory fermented black beans, chewy crystallized ginger, fragrant garlic and crunchy nuts and seeds.

▪ J.Chang Kitchen In order to get your hands on the limited batches of James Chang’s chile oil, you have to be quick – but that’s half the fun. Releases of the chile oil, which is handmade and bottled in Kansas City, periodically drop on Instagram, and Chang finishes each batch a little differently, so one might feature peanuts, while another might be more shallot-forward. Chang keeps the base the same, however, cooking the oil low and slow with aromatics to maximize the flavor potential. And he always uses Sichuan peppercorns along with his preferred chile pepper, Chao Tian Jiao, which is also from the Sichuan province. His recommendation? Use chile oil on anything that’s creamy and slightly rich. “It will elevate everything from pasta to chicken or tuna salad,” he says. facebook.com/Jchang.Kitchen

◀ oo’mämE St. Louis-based oo’mämē expands the scope of chile crisp further still with its global collection, including Chinese, Mexican, Indian and Moroccan chile crisps. Each product is made with ingredients and spices specific to the region that it represents. The Mexican chile crisp, for example, features smoky chipotles, coriander, cumin and orange peel, plus sweet and chewy mango and snappy pepitas, to celebrate the aromas and flavors of Oaxaca. The Indian chile crisp reflects “the land of spices” in Kerala with golden turmeric, zesty chiles, sweet papaya, toasted coconut and roasted peanuts, while the Moroccan chile crisp takes you on a journey to Fez with warm spices, piquant peppers, jammy figs and crunchy almonds. “We want to celebrate these flavors and cultures,” founder Mark Engel says. He believes the condiment can transform any dish whether you’re a novice or a veteran in the kitchen. oomame.net photography by j. pollack photography

▪ Passenger Foods During the pandemic, Phil Wymore, founder of Passenger Foods in St. Louis, started experimenting with chile crisp.

Today, he offers three varieties: mild, hot and very hot, which get their heat from mild Hatch chiles, chipotle chiles and a combination of habanero and scotch bonnet chiles,

If you’ve ever tasted a dish and said, “Something’s missing,” that something might be chile crisp. The

respectively. Wymore, who St. Louisans might recognize as

traditional Chinese condiment features chile oil infused with myriad flavors and textures, including

the co-owner of Perennial Artisan Ales, decided to vary the

but not limited to garlic, sesame, dried peppers, fermented beans, mushroom powder and Sichuan

spiciness of his chile crisps to give people with different heat

peppercorns. The result is striking, and it’s a natural fit for stir-fries, noodles, fried rice, dumplings and congee. The fragrant, nutty and spicy condiment can also multitask, adding complexity, crunch and a heavy helping of umami to nachos, scrambled eggs and even ice cream sundaes. It’s easy to see why chile crisp has taken hold of the U.S. – some have gone as far as to call it the “it” condiment of the pandemic. Many varieties, such as these made locally, are also vegan and gluten-free.

–Lauren Quick

tolerances access to the prized condiment, which easily boosts the flavor and texture of tired home-cooked meals. “[Chile crisp] adds a lot of different dimensions to desserts, dips, noodles, pizza and more,” Wymore says. “There’s a long flavor ride from the umami, and there’s crunch to it. It’s very versatile.” passengerfoods.com / j a nu a ry 2 02 2

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▲ KANSAS CITY

Baba’s Pantry Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by anna petrow

Kansas City residents might recognize chef Yahia “Baba” Kamal – after all, his face has graced thousands of containers of hummus, labneh and shatta (Middle Eastern hot sauce) sold at local grocery stores. Today, the proud father and his two sons, Kamal and Omar, run their own Palestinian-American deli, Baba’s Pantry, in East Brookside. Inside the colorful storefront, you’ll find pita and wraps stuffed with creamy hummus, crunchy falafel, chicken shawarma and kebab meat, along with fresh salads, such as fattoush and tabbouleh. All the items are made to order, and they’re meant to highlight the offerings in the refrigerated cases as well as the flavors and hospitality enjoyed in the owners’ own homes. Brilliantly colored jars also line the market shelves, housing everything from apple syrup, chile oil and saffron ghee to pickled okra, torshi (a spicy pickled vegetable mixture) and handmade spice blends.

1019 E. 63rd St., Kansas City, Missouri, facebook.com/Babaspantrykc

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3 Deli Specials at Baba’s Pantry baba’s falafel

The signature falafel has a distinctive oval shape and a crunchy exterior. Inside, the tender ground chickpeas surround a center of minced onion, fresh parsley and sumac. Enjoy them on their own or dip them in creamy yogurt sauce for added tang.

hummus

Baba’s renowned hummus is best with warm pita, seasoned kebab meat and any number of toppings, such as olives, pickled turnips and torshi.

chicken shawarma

For a taste of Palestinian-American street food, order the chicken shawarma wrap stuffed with tender slices of chicken, hummus, garlic sauce, pickle spears or torshi and french fries.

midwest made

loose-leaf

TEA Fill up your cup with these five loose-leaf teas from Missouri makers.

Written by Emily Wasserman photography by matthew seidel

A decadent cold-weather tea, the Chocolate Cake Honeybush from Anna Marie’s Teas combines whole chocolate chips, rosebuds and honeybush for an aroma and flavor reminiscent of freshly baked chocolate cake. The naturally caffeine-free rooibos tea is perfect for after dinner – or any time you’re craving something sweet. Purchase this and other teas, from black to white and oolong to herbal, at the shop in Liberty, Missouri, or online at annateashop.com.

The Frequency, an everyday herbal tea from Black Brew Tea in St. Louis, will quench your thirst, clear your mind and satisfy your spirit. The healthful blend features hibiscus, juniper berry (a powerful diuretic), blue mallow (known for its antiinflammatory and antiseptic properties) and blackberry leaf (a natural astringent). Coupled with its bright, sweet flavor, there’s no better remedy for the winter blues. The Frequency, along with other therapeutic teas, are available at bbtea.net.

You deserve the royal treatment, starting with the Buckingham Palace Garden Party black tea from Chabom Tea + Spices. A staff pick, the blend has hints of Earl Grey and jasmine, and it’s traditionally served at Queen Elizabeth II’s springtime tea parties. This is just one of more than 100 teas available at Chabom’s storefront on historic C-Street in Springfield, Missouri.

Explore all of your options in person or online at chabomteaspice.com.

Almost as good as a hug from your best friend, Cup of Love is a rose tea from Big Heart Tea Co. in St. Louis. The fragrant, soothing tea has two simple, certified-organic ingredients: tulsi and red rose. The former, otherwise known as holy basil, is the main ingredient in a majority of the brand’s teas; it’s a gentle, adaptogenic herb that works with the central nervous system to reduce stress over time. Retailers across the country carry Big Heart Tea Co. products, which you can also order online at bighearttea.com.

Plucked from an organic farm in the Simao District in Yunnan Province, China, Ma Wei Moonlight is a white tea from Hugo Tea Co., based in North Kansas City, Missouri. The buds and leaves are shade-dried as opposed to sun-dried, adding deep sugars and high floral character to the tea. Other tasting notes include gardenia and pancake syrup for a sweet yet subtle flavor profile. Buy this and other direct-trade tea at hugotea.com.

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What Is It?

Suya spice, or yaji spice, is a West African spice blend typically used to marinate grilled meat skewers known as suya, which is a popular Nigerian street food.

Beginning with a base of ground roasted groundnuts (peanut powder also works in a pinch), the blend builds flavor with the all-stars of your spice cabinet: smoked paprika, ginger, onion, garlic and cayenne pepper, all of which work together to create one of the most addictive spice rubs out there.

Start the new year with an explosion of flavor.

What Do I Do With It?

These Maggi Seasoning cubes are available in most international markets as well as online.

Although suya spice brings the heat, it plays well with others. Use it in the traditional way as a rub for meat, poultry, fish or tofu, or sprinkle it on veggies – the spice blend holds up especially well on root vegetables, Brussels sprouts, broccolini and cauliflower.

Perk up stews, creamy soups and coconut milk-based sauces, or add it to rice or noodles for a quick meal that tastes like you spent hours on it. For an unexpected movie night twist, toss buttered popcorn with suya spice; you can also season hummus with it or put a teaspoon or two in your next homemade vinaigrette. Any way you use it, the warmth of the spice blend will hit the right note this winter.

Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

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Spice blends like suya spice are my go-to for vegetables, as they are very little effort for a lot of reward. Broccolini might seem fancy, but it’s a breeze to cook, and its slim, tender stalks mean less time and no waste.

Your Delicious Wedding Moment BEGINS WITH

Roasted Broccolini with Suya-Spiced Honey Glaze serves 6 to 8 Suya Spice ¼ cup peanut powder 2 cubes Maggi Seasoning, ground to powder 2½ Tbsp smoked paprika 2 Tbsp ground ginger 1 Tbsp onion powder 1 Tbsp garlic powder 1 Tbsp ground cayenne pepper 2 tsp white pepper 2 tsp kosher salt

Roasted Broccolini with Suya-Spiced Honey Glaze

5½ Tbsp unsalted butter, divided

½ cup panko

5 oz bacon, very crisp and finely chopped

5 tsp suya spice, divided (recipe follows) 1¼ to 1½ lbs broccolini, halved lengthwise

3 Tbsp olive oil, divided

1 cup shallots, cut in ¹⁄₈-inch-thick rings

¹⁄₃ cup honey

¹⁄₃ cup apple cider vinegar

/ preparation – suya spice / In a medium bowl, whisk all ingredients until homogeneous; set aside. / preparation – roasted broccolini with suya-spiced honey glaze / Preheat oven to 425°F. Heat 1½ tablespoons butter in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Once it foams, add panko; stir to coat. Continue to stir and cook until panko is golden and toasted. Toss panko with bacon and 1 teaspoon suya spice; set aside.

On a lipped sheet pan, spread out broccolini in a single layer, cut-side down; drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil. In a small bowl, toss shallot with remaining olive oil until coated; spread on top of broccolini. Roast until edges of broccolini are charred, 12 to 15 minutes. In the final minutes of roasting, preheat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat.

Meanwhile, heat honey in a medium saucepan over medium heat until bubbling; continue to cook, 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in remaining butter, remaining suya spice and vinegar. Return to heat and cook until slightly thickened, 4 to 5 minutes.

Remove broccolini from oven and add to preheated skillet. Pour honey mixture directly into skillet; rapidly toss broccolini to coat as glaze bubbles and thickens (set over medium heat, if needed, but be careful to not burn glaze). Serve in skillet or turn out onto a platter, topped with panko mixture.

From Elegant to Casual, Buffet to BBQ Kenrick’s is priced to fit your needs, with the service that you deserve. ♦ Wedding Receptions ♦ Hall Packages ♦ Engagement Parties ♦ Bridal Showers ♦ Rehearsal Dinners

♦ Post-Wedding Brunch ♦ Full Bar Options ♦ Equipment Rental ♦ Shrimp Boils ♦ Whole Hog Roasts

314-631-2440 | www.kenricks.com

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City Foundry ST. LOUIS

Photography by gregg goldman

The much-anticipated food hall at City Foundry in St. Louis’ Midtown neighborhood is finally open, and the diverse collection of vendors makes it almost impossible to narrow down where to eat on any given day. So why choose just one? We suggest creating a multicourse meal with the delicious variety of samosas, sandwiches, ceviches, waffles, cheesecakes and more. –Rachel Huffman 3730 Foundry Way, St. Louis, Missouri, cityfoundrystl.com

e at h e r e

Buenos Aires Cafe

Chez Ali

South American flavors abound at Buenos Aires Cafe – think savory empanadas, grilled choripán, skirt steak sandwiches and tostones topped with salsa rosada. facebook.com/buenosairesstl

Chez Ali brings West African cuisine to St. Louis with staples such as jollof rice and comforts such as yassa chicken. Sambusas (the African version of samosas) stuffed with beef, chicken or veggies are also crowd-pleasers. toasttab.com/chez-ali-3730-foundry-way-fs1/v3

Hello Poke

Build your own poke bowl at Hello Poke. Proteins range from spicy tuna to tofu, and you can add avocado, cucumber, edamame, masago, seaweed salad and more before finishing the bowl with a sauce, such as spicy mayo or wasabi aïoli. facebook.com/ hellopokestl

Chicken Scratch

Good Day

Don’t bawk at trying the rotisserie chicken from Chicken Scratch. Chef-owner Nate Hereford offers enticing sauces and sides to pair with a half or whole bird, and he also showcases poultry in sandwiches, such as chicken dip. chxscratchstl.com

Breakfast is the most important meal at Good Day, where you can enjoy savory or sweet crêpes alongside gourmet coffee. Dig into the curry chicken, or indulge in the blueberry-goat cheese or lemon meringue. toasttab. com/good-day-3730-foundry-way-food-stall-9/v3

Kalbi Taco Shack

Patty’s Cheesecakes

Poptimism

At Kalbi Taco Shack, formerly a beloved spot on Cherokee Street, well-known Mexican dishes feature popular Asian ingredients, such as jasmine rice, sweet pickled carrot, housemade Asian slaw, pickled daikon radish and sweet and spicy chile sauce. kalbitacoshack.com

Cinnamon crumb, Mexican chocolate, raspberrypistachio – these are just some of the spectacular signature flavors at Patty’s Cheesecakes. Pastry chef and owner Pat Upchurch also sells cheesecake truffles and cheesecake-stuffed cookie sandwiches. pattyscheesecakes.com

Ice pops are a quintessential summer treat, but the seasonal flavors at Poptimism will have you craving them all year long. Owner Kaylen Wissinger offers fruity pops – think lemon-lime and Cranberry Royale – and creamy pops – from passionfuit-coconut to Nutella fudge – alongside soft serve. poptimismstl.com

Press Waffle Co.

Sub Division Sandwich Co. Sureste

Turmeric Street Style

Take your taste buds to Belgium with a sweet or savory Liège-style waffle. The house special tops the golden waffle with strawberries, cookie butter, Nutella and whipped cream, while The Cristo creates a waffle sandwich with ham, turkey, white American cheese and berry jam. presswaffleco.com

These movie-inspired sammies are worth the wait.

Try The Dude Abides (beef meatballs, mozzarella, Volpi genoa salami and marinara) or There’s No Place Like Home (confit white and dark meat turkey, mushroom duxelles, cranberry sauce, crispy onions and a caramelized shallot aïoli). subdivisionstl.com

Fans of Indian fare, look no further than Turmeric Street Style, a spin-off of Turmeric, which serves modern pan-Indian cuisine in the Delmar Loop. Always in demand, the dosa and kathi rolls come with your choice of protein, such as paneer taka tak, chettinad mushroom and andhra chile chicken. turmericstl.com

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Dedicated to the cuisine of the Yucatán Peninsula, where chef-owner Alex Henry grew up, Sureste’s rotating menu typically features cochinita pibil, fresh ceviche, tamales and panuchos, most of which are served with housemade tortillas. facebook.com/ surestemexican

PROMOTI ON

PRESENTED BY

COLORFUL CARROTS BRING ANTIOXIDANTS OF ALL STRIPES S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T BY K AT H E R I N E L E W I S

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

DANVERS

PURPLE

RED

WHITE

That classic orange carrot variety, 6 to 7 inches long with a rounded top that tapers to a pointed end, is known as the Danvers. Named after the Massachusetts city where they were developed over a century ago, Danvers carrots can withstand cold weather and poor soil, so they’re great for home gardeners. They bring sweetness to everything from soups to stir-fries, as well as a heap of vitamin A, which is vital for eye health. Just a half a cup of carrots notches 75% of the recommended daily amount.

Purple carrots aren’t just doing it for the ’gram. In fact, until about 500 years ago, they were far more common than their orange counterparts. Purple carrots’ inky hue comes from anthocyanin, a compound that may help lower the risk of heart disease and calm inflammation. They’re sweeter than orange varieties and are a striking accent in salads and side dishes alike.

Although not as popular in the United States today, red carrots are no stranger to Middle Eastern cuisine, where they’ve appeared in regional cooking tracing back a millennium. Red carrots are rich in lycopene — a compound that gives vegetables their red color.

This potent antioxidant also helps lessen cell damage, and there’s some evidence it could lower blood pressure, too.

Although they resemble parsnips, white carrots have a rich, unmistakable sweetness that really blossoms when they’re roasted. Their color (or lack of) is a tipoff that they don’t contain beta-carotene or anthocyanin like other carrots on this list, but they are still fine sources of fiber. Look for varieties like Lunar White and White Satin.

Maple Dijon Glazed Rainbow Carrots SERVES 4 1 lb rainbow carrots 2 Tbsp olive oil 2 Tbsp maple syrup 1 Tbsp Dijon mustard 1 Tbsp fresh chopped rosemary 2 cloves garlic, minced Salt and pepper to taste

 DOCTOR'S There are countless examples of “conventional wisdom” that simply aren’t backed by science.

For instance, it’s perfectly fine to swim right after eating. Gum doesn’t take seven years to digest. Go ahead and play with all the frogs and toads you like — neither of them cause warts.

But the advice about carrots being good for eyesight is the real deal. This crunchy veggie brims with beta-carotene, a compound the body converts to vitamin A, says Dr. Yikyung Park, a Washington University epidemiologist at Siteman Cancer Center.

Beta-carotene is a vital antioxidant that helps mitigate cell damage, and eating just one medium-size carrot is enough to net about three-quarters of the recommended daily amount of this essential nutrient.

“Vitamin A is key in helping maintain normal vision and preventing age-related macular degeneration. You may have grown up being told to eat your carrots to keep your eyes healthy — this is why. It also helps keep other organs

2 Tbsp pepitas for garnish, optional

ORDERS

PREPARATION 1. Preheat oven to 425°F.

operating properly, and it aids the immune system,” says Dr. Park.

Though we think of carrots as being orange, that isn’t always the case. Red, purple and white varieties have been around for hundreds of years, and each one boasts a different antioxidant: Orange carrots are tops for beta-carotene, red ones are a terrific source of lycopene and pretty purple cultivars deliver anthocyanin.

Carrots of all stripes also bring heart-healthy nutrients such as vitamins B6, C and K, potassium and magnesium.

As far as carrots affecting skin color? “It’s true that eating too many carrots for a long period of time can turn your skin orange, but that effect is only temporary and won’t cause any harm,” Dr. Park says.

Dr. Park calls carrots a great low-fat snack option. “With 2.8 grams of fiber, high water content and only 40 calories in just one serving,

2. Wash and trim carrots and pat dry. Place in large bowl.

DR. YIKYUNG PARK

Washington University epidemiologist at Siteman Cancer Center PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

carrots will keep you feeling fuller longer and help curb cravings. Plus, that fiber helps regulate your digestive system to keep it working properly,” she says.

While carrots themselves are healthy, be mindful that the dips that often accompany them or preparations like glazed carrots can add loads of calories and sugar.

3. In medium bowl, whisk together olive oil, maple syrup, Dijon mustard, rosemary, garlic, salt and pepper until combined into a glaze.

4. Reserve 2 Tbsp of glaze, set aside. Pour remaining glaze over carrots until well coated.

5. Arrange carrots on parchment paper or foil on baking sheet. Avoid carrots overlapping.

6. Roast for about 20 minutes until tender and slightly brown, turn them halfway through cooking.

7. Remove from oven and drizzle with reserved glaze.

Garnish with pepitas, if desired.

siteman.wustl.edu/YDR

116 calories, 5g fat, 18g carbs, 1g protein / j a nu a ry 2 02 2

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A hearty protein- and fiber-packed ancient grain, farro fed the Roman legion.

Today, it’s still coveted for its integrity, chewy texture and nutty flavor. Widely used in place of rice for risotto or Italian-style soups, the noble grain is also enjoyable as porridge. I like to serve it with a ginger-spiced compote made from scratch with the bulk of the summer berries that I have preserved in my freezer.

All in all, this is just one more way for me to wrap my family in warmth this winter.

Story and recipe by Gaby Weir Vera, private chef, Columbia, Missouri Photography by ben nickelson

serves 4 Berry Compote 3 cups frozen berries ¼ cup chopped dates 1 tsp grated ginger, optional ¼ cup apple cider Warm Farro Breakfast Bowl 1 Tbsp olive oil 1 cup pearled farro ¼ cup chopped dates 2 cups water 1 cup unsweetened coconut milk or other plant-based milk 2 cinnamon sticks berry compote (recipe follows) ½ cup pistachios, roughly chopped, plus more to taste / preparation – berry compote / In a small saucepan, add all ingredients; set over medium heat and bring to a soft boil. Lower heat and simmer until liquid has reduced and thickened, approximately 15 minutes, stirring and smashing fruit along the way. Remove from heat. Allow to rest at room temperature until ready to use. / preparation – warm farro breakfast bowl / In a medium saucepan set over medium heat, add oil. Once oil is shimmering, add farro; stirring occasionally, toast until farro becomes a deep golden brown, approximately 2 minutes.

(Be careful not to burn farro.) Add dates, water, coconut milk and cinnamon sticks. Increase heat to medium high and bring to a boil. Once boiling, lower heat and simmer until liquid has been absorbed, approximately 20 minutes. Remove from heat. Remove cinnamon sticks. Evenly divide farro between four bowls. Top each bowl with 1 to 2 spoonfuls of berry compote. Evenly divide pistachios between bowls, adding more as needed. Enjoy warm.

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feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 2 2

Come visit us for some of the best burgers, beer, and atmosphere in town!

Jack Nolen’s 2501 S. 9th St. in Soulard!

Sunday: 11:00am–5:00pm Monday: Closed Tuesday – Saturday: 11:00am – 10:00pm

Your Hometown Roaster!

Your Hometown Roaster!

dubuquecoffee.com / j a nu a ry 2 02 2

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In this class, we’ll explore the details of a good sauce and learn how to build flavors through a variety of cooking techniques and ingredients.

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Marinated Lamb Shoulder Chops with Olives and Dried Cherries There are two types of shoulder chops: the arm and the blade.

This recipe calls for the blade because the marbling adds more flavor to the dish. While you can, of course, braise the meat, pangrilling saves time and preserves the lamb’s natural flavor. Here, it’s cooked medium rare and then served with a sweet and savory sauce for a juicy weeknight meal.

Written by Amy Feese Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Get Hands-On Join Schnucks Cooking School chef Amy Feese on Zoom at 3pm on Sat., Jan. 15 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu.

For more information on everything you’ll need for the virtual class – from cookware to ingredients – contact the cooking school directly. nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704 22

feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 2 2

Serves 4 4 2 4 3 1 ½ 4 1 1 2 2

cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1-inch strips lemon zest cups Syrah, or other dry red wine, divided Tbsp olive oil, divided tsp salt, plus more for seasoning tsp freshly ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning lamb shoulder blade chops cup pitted Kalamata olives cup dried sour cherries Tbsp (¼ stick) butter, room temperature Tbsp all-purpose flour

Remove lamb chops from marinade and pat dry with paper towels; reserve marinade.

Season lamb chops with salt and pepper to taste. In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet set over medium high heat, add 1 tablespoon oil. Once oil is shimmering, add 2 lamb chops; cook, 3 to 4 minutes per side, turning only once. Remove from heat and allow to rest until internal temperature reaches 135°F (medium rare). Repeat process with remaining oil and lamb chops.

/ preparation / In a 1-gallon plastic bag, combine garlic, lemon zest, 2 cups wine, 1 tablespoon oil, salt and pepper. Add lamb chops; seal and marinate, at least 1 hour or overnight.

In a medium bowl, add butter and flour; using a hand mixer, blend until a paste forms. In a small saucepan set over medium high heat, add reserved marinade; cook until reduced by half. Add wine mixture; simmer, 3 minutes. Add ¼ cup sauce to butterMAKE THE MEAL flour paste; whisk to incorporate. Add • Marinated Lamb Shoulder Chops with paste to sauce; reduce heat to low and Olives and Dried Cherries cook until flour flavor is gone. Taste and adjust seasoning.

• Creamy Wild Mushroom Polenta

In a small saucepan, add remaining wine, olives and cherries.

Bring to a boil and then reduce heat; simmer, 5 minutes. Set aside.

/ to serve / Serve lamb chops warm, topped with sauce, olives and cherries.

• Sautéed Green Beans with Gremolata • Baked Apples with Oatmeal Filling

CULINARY LIBRARY /

COLUMBIA, MO

with Gina Overshiner / chef-owner, Gina’s Vegan A Go Go t Often parked at Cooper’s Landing in Columbia, Missouri, the food trailer that houses Gina’s Vegan A Go Go is appropriately painted a shade of “vegan green.” Chef-owner

Gina Overshiner – who leads a plant-based lifestyle for both environmental and health reasons – serves a menu of elevated vegan comfort food for brunch or dinner, depending on the day of the week. Going beyond tofu and beans, menu highlights include “chorizo” burritos, loaded nachos, the VBQ sandwich (a vegan take on the McRib) and oatmealchocolate chip cookies. Overshiner is happy to share three cookbooks that have informed her personal and professional foray into veganism. –Jessica Vaughn Martin photo by aaron ottis

Bad Manners by Bad Manners,

The Africa News Cookbook

Vegan Chocolate

Michelle Davis and Matt Holloway (2021)

by Tami Hultman (1985)

by Fran Costigan (2013)

“I’ve used this cookbook [previously published as Thug Kitchen] so much that the pages are falling out. The series changed everything for me as I was trying to become vegan. [Back then] most vegan recipes had long lists of weird and expensive ingredients, and a lot of them required expensive cooking tools and expertise. Thug Kitchen was the first vegan cookbook that focused on readily available, common ingredients and really celebrated veggies. I also love the foul language.”

“I had Ethiopian food for the first time in 1987 [in] Washington, D.C. I loved it, but there was nothing like it in Columbia. I started looking for an Ethiopian cookbook and stumbled upon this one; it started my fascination with spices and different flavor profiles.

I spent months trying to find some of the spices listed in the book – this was before the internet and Amazon. I finally found them at Soulard Spice Shop in St. Louis, and I was so excited to finally make the Ethiopian dishes I had dreamed about since D.C.”

“I’ve always been more of a cook than a baker – it would be hard for me to count all the times my baking attempts have ended in icky mush and tears – but this book has really helped me build my baking skills. Fran was an instructor at my Main Street Vegan Academy class in 2019, and I purchased her book there. The recipes are so clear and easy to follow that everything I’ve made, including Millionaire’s Banoffee Tarts (one of my son’s favorite desserts), has been great.”

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Process Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

Kitchen gadget skeptics, I see you because I am one of you. Before I commit money and cabinet space to something, I need to know that it’s more than a one-trick pony. A food processor, to some, seems like just that, but I can’t think of a more hard-working gadget in my own kitchen – you simply have to know how to maximize its potential.

Food processors can do it all: slice or shred cheese and vegetables; pulverize nuts into butter or flour; emulsify dressings, pesto or aïoli; grind sugar down to a superfine texture; and even make cookie, tart or pie dough with ease. With power and grace – plus the right attachments – they handle some of the most daunting kitchen tasks.

So, if you’re on the fence about bringing one home, let’s chat.

MUST-HAVE attachments

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OPTIONAL ADD-ONS

S Blade. The standard

Shredding Disc.

Slicing Disc. Every slicing disc

Whipping Disc Blade.

Shred cheese

can cut fruits and vegetables into

Plastic Dough Blade. If you don’t

Perforated Blade.

blade in any food

This attachment

Like a whisk, hand mixer

processor, the S blade

and vegetables in

thin, uniform slices, but some are

want to knead dough by

works for egg whites,

and stand mixer, this blade

can coarsely chop, grate,

a flash with this

also adjustable for paper-thin

hand, this attachment

sauces and other

whips cream and creates

mince, mix or purée food.

attachment.

to ¼-inch-thick pieces.

can be useful.

liquid-based items.

texture in sauces.

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A Cut Above Fans of food processors (me) can get overenthusiastic about their favorite brands, but if you choose one of these options, you can rest assured that you’re getting a gadget that can tackle innumerable tasks as you continue on your cooking journey. Remember: Food processors are an investment.

Cuisinart DFP-14BCNY If you’re new to the kitchen and hope to work a food processor into your daily grind, this is a wonderful option. The Cuisinart DFP-14BCNY is a durable, all-purpose model for cooks who want only the basics.

Size: 14-cup capacity Attachments: S blade, shredding disc, slicing disc, dough blade

Looking for a lighter meal this winter?

Falafel boasts

KitchenAid KFP1319 KitchenAid is a consistently reliable choice for appliances, including food processors. This model has the same basic blades as the Cuisinart, but the slicing disc is adjustable – like a mandoline. It also comes with a dicing kit and a storage caddy to keep the attachments organized.

Size: 13-cup capacity Attachments: S blade, shredding disc, adjustable slicing disc,

fresh herbs and bright flavors, but it’s still hearty enough to satisfy.

dough blade, dicing kit

Baked Falafel with Tzatziki

Breville Sous Chef 16 Pro If you spend countless hours in the kitchen, we think it’s time you got your own sous chef. This Breville food processor is not even close to the most expensive on the market, but it has all the bells and whistles you desire, including an extra 2½-cup capacity work bowl for sauces, herbs and the like – plus a storage caddy.

Size: 16-cup capacity Attachments: small S blade, standard S blade, shredding disc, adjustable slicing disc, dough blade, dicing kit, julienne disc, french fry disc, whisking disc

Serves 8 to 10 Tzatziki ½ English cucumber 2 Tbsp small dice red onion 2 cloves garlic, grated 1½ cups full-fat Greek yogurt 2 Tbsp olive oil, divided juice of 2 lemons 2 tsp finely grated lemon zest 3 Tbsp fresh dill, finely chopped 1 Tbsp fresh mint leaves, finely chopped 1 tsp kosher salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

Baked Falafel ¹⁄₃ cup all-purpose flour 2½ tsp kosher salt

2 tsp ground cumin 1½ tsp ground coriander ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked for 12 hours

1 medium yellow onion, chopped 4 to 5 cloves garlic, roughly chopped ½ jalapeño, stem and seeds removed 1½ cups parsley leaves, loosely packed

1 cup cilantro leaves, loosely packed 4 Tbsp grapeseed oil, divided

/ preparation – tzatziki / In a food processor fitted with the shredding disc, shred cucumber; transfer to a clean towel and squeeze out excess water. Place shredded cucumber in a medium bowl; add red onion, garlic, yogurt, 1 tablespoon olive oil, lemon juice, lemon zest, dill, mint, salt and pepper. Mix, cover and then refrigerate, at least 1 hour. / preparation – baked falafel / In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, salt, cumin, coriander and black pepper; set aside.

Discs for Specific Cuts.

Gaufrette

Egg Whisk Blade.

(such as brunoise and julienne)

(Waffle) Blade.

The name of this attachment

I suggest practicing your knife

With this blade, you

explains its purpose, but

skills rather than investing in

can make waffle fries

unless someone has stolen all

one of these discs.

and…waffle fries.

your whisks, it’s unnecessary.

Add soaked chickpeas, onion, garlic, jalapeño, parsley and cilantro to the bowl of a food processor fitted with the S blade; pulse until mixture is broken down and blended. Fold chickpea mixture into flour mixture with a spatula; cover and refrigerate, 1 hour.

After allotted time, preheat oven to 400°F. Brush two lipped baking sheets with 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil each. Divide chickpea-flour mixture into balls using an ice cream scoop; place on pans, flattening each slightly with your palm. Brush tops with remaining oil. Bake, 30 minutes, flipping halfway. / to serve / Drizzle tzatziki with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Serve alongside hot falafel. / j a nu a ry 2 02 2

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PROMOTION

DELIGHT is Always on the Menu With award-winning, globally recognized Executive Chef Brian Hardy at the helm, delight is always on the menu at The Gatesworth, an exceptional independent senior living community in St. Louis. Using only the freshest seasonal ingredients, Chef Hardy not only sets the general menus for The Gatesworth’s three full-service, in-house restaurants, but he works with the individual residents to custom-create menus.

To Chef Hardy, creating custom menus is about more than meeting dietary requirements; it’s about surprise and delight, engaging the senses and stimulating the palate of each unique resident.

“A healthy, well-balanced, fully customized diet is something every resident of The Gatesworth has always enjoyed,” Hardy explains.

“In many establishments, you’ll find processed food; that’s not our way at The Gatesworth,” he says. “We bring things in and do the work ourselves, bringing in fresh fruits and vegetables, and high-quality, local ingredients. We do all our baking, butchering and brining in-house. We peel, blanche and prepare vegetables by hand. Most everything is made from scratch. It’s not the easiest way, but it’s the best way to retain flavor and nutrients.”

According to Hardy, the difference begins with the staff. The renowned kitchen staff members hold themselves to the highest standards, and nearly every individual who trains with The Gatesworth is a graduate of a culinary program or has gone through

an apprenticeship, with some having even competed worldwide.

“My staff and I are like the personal chefs of each and every resident that lives here at The Gatesworth,” he explains.

“Everyone is unique, so every diet we create is, too. From the moment I meet a new resident, I become a student of their tastes, likes, dislikes, health needs, dietary goals, etc.

I want to know them completely, so I can provide them with the best nutrition, variety and taste possible.”

These standards do not go unnoticed by the residents, many of whom have named the dining one of the first-class features of the community. “The food is always excellent here,” says resident Carol Max. “Chef Brian Hardy will cook to order for you if there is something special you would like, which he has done for me many times.”

“Our residents provide the inspiration and sometimes even the recipes,” Hardy adds. “Our kitchen can prepare pretty much anything, and we love the challenge of trying to bring a resident’s beloved family recipe to life. It’s all about that personal touch.”

EXECUTIVE CHEF BRIAN HARDY The 2020 recipient of the Dr. L.J. Minor Chef Professionalism Award from St. Augustine, Florida’s distinguished American Culinary Federation, Hardy is passionate about providing the highest quality of food and service to The Gatesworth.

The Gatesworth is now welcoming new residents! For more information, or to experience The Gatesworth’s personal touch, please contact us.

We’d love to meet you!

314-993-0111 | THEGATESWORTH.COM

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The Gatesworth is committed to equal housing opportunity and does not discriminate in housing and services because of race, color, religion, sex, handicap, familial status or national origin. feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 2 2

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“Alexa, play my Flash Briefing.”

Did you get a new Alexa device for the holidays?

Featuring

elliot Brown Executive Chef

SMART SPEAKER. SMARTER HUMAN.

swadecannabis.com/cookingwithcannabis

Set it up today:

STLtoday.com/alexa 28

feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 2 2

the f

& brightest

Our annual list of Rising Stars celebrates up-and-coming talent throughout the food-and-beverage industry, including farmers, line cooks, pastry chefs, baristas, brewers and winemakers. Despite the challenges brought on by the

pandemic, these individuals are finding new and creative ways to engage our communities and strengthen our food scenes, from pop-ups to food hall stands to cottage bakeries operating out of their very own home kitchens.

We’re also recognizing this year’s Industry Innovators.

Not content to rest on their laurels, these seasoned pros continue to push the envelope, using food and drink as a catalyst for change in our communities. Thanks to their work, the future of food looks bright.

b

o

u st

ry

rom the farm to the kitchen, a restaurant is only as good as the people behind it. And as we turn the corner on a new year, we’re raising a glass to the very folks who help our favorite local restaurants run – whether you know their names yet or not.

nd

inn

sta rs

c i

k

re of od

ent

o

m

o

u

tu

rs

s

g

oming

c

F

l

f

fo

c d-

t

the best

l ta

up-an

S

N I S G I R

vato

kANSAS CITY 30 COLUMBIA 34 St. louis 36 springfield 40 / j a nu a ry 2 02 2

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Alejandra de la Fuente chef-owner, Red Kitchen

T

hrough hard work, home-cooked Mexican

dishes and a loyal fan base, Alejandra De la Fuente has experienced a major glow-up for her restaurant, Red Kitchen, inside Lenexa Public Market. Over the past four years, De la Fuente has gone from hosting a weekly tamale pop-up while working full-time to quitting her job in order to become a permanent fixture with her own single stall at the market to now being able to support an anchor position there. With a full commercial kitchen – plus a liquor license – at her disposal, De la Fuente has expanded her operations to offer breakfast and lunch during the week and breakfast on weekends. The expanded space also gives De la Fuente – a Guadalajara, Mexico, native – more room to showcase traditional Mexican favorites, including queso fundido, enchiladas, flautas, chiles rellenos and tacos de guisado, a Mexico City specialty.

As the sole chef of Red Kitchen, De la Fuente takes great pride in being able to bring the food of Mexico to the Lenexa Public Market in a much bigger and more traditional way. You won’t find free chips and salsa or other Tex-Mex accouterments, but you will find one lovely Latina, proudly serving the same food she makes for her family at home. –Jenny Vergara lenexapublicmarket.com/merchants/red_kitchen photography by pilsen photo co-op

pozole

tamales

birria

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RISING stars Marlena “Miko” Blackman owner, Shots by Miko

S

hots by Miko has been kicking around in

various forms for almost a decade, but owner Miko Blackman feels like her cocktail business is just getting started. Blackman originally launched Shots

by Miko to offer bartenders for hire, stepping in when existing businesses had a large event and inadequate staff to work it. Now, the company has expanded to offer a range of experiences with its crew of mixologists, including event bartending, boutique bar services, custom cocktail creation and more. For Blackman, the pandemic restrictions actually helped her realize some ideas that she’d long been tossing around. “We started doing online cocktail classes and creating at-home cocktail kits for people who weren’t comfortable going out,” she says. “Things like that really took off and now make up a huge part of our business. It’s helped us connect and identify with individuals and groups we’d otherwise never come into contact with.” Shots by Miko is still shaking things up at events large and small, but now there are more ways to enjoy the creative concoctions – and Blackman’s got even bigger plans for 2022 and beyond. –Jordan Baranowski shotsbymiko.com

Alex Reynolds winemaker, Somerset Ridge Vineyard & Winery

hen Katie Liu-Sung walked away from her original plans to open Chewology in Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District, she didn’t waste a minute before striking a deal to open her dumpling and noodle bowl restaurant as an anchor tenant inside

photography by zach bauman

Lenexa Public Market. During her three years at the

Katie Liu-Sung chef-owner, Chewology and Stray Kat

W

ine has been a big part of Alex Reynolds’

life for as long as he can remember: His parents opened Somerset Ridge Vineyard & Winery in Paola, Kansas, in 1998, so he started learning about and appreciating wine from an early age. After immersing himself in the California wine industry after college,

market, she proved to be an amazing host, chef and

Reynolds returned home to take over the viticulture

hustler, building her business from the ground up

and winemaking at the family business. He believes the

while always keeping her focus on her customers. Liu-

Midwest is poised to make some noise in the industry.

Sung has experimented with new dishes and specials,

“The way I see it, there’s been a nascent industry here

eliminating what didn’t work and keeping what did.

for the last several decades, mostly kept up by folks

When she was finally ready to make her move, the

with a traditional agricultural background,” he says.

former Bluestem space in Westport proved to be

“We have a limitless frontier here – a blank canvas

the perfect next step. Here, Liu-Sung has not only

that allows us to have fun and experiment.” Reynolds

reopened Chewology, featuring creative cocktails,

will soon release several new Somerset Ridge wines,

pork and cabbage dumplings, gua bao with Taiwanese

including a barrel-aged Chardonel, which is similar to

braised pork belly and brothy beef noodle bowls, but

white Burgundy wines, a cream sherry and a Pét-

she also plans to open Stray Kat, a dining experience

Nat. He’s particularly excited about the latter, as he

that will serve single family-style Taiwanese dishes,

believes the Midwest can become a premier producer

early this year. With its green and pink color scheme

of sparkling wines. Try them out for yourself at the

and 1980s soundtrack, the restaurant feels like the

tasting room, where Somerset Ridge is breaking

end of a very personal journey for Liu-Sung, but we

down the stigma of Kansas wine, grape by grape. –J.B.

think it’s just the beginning. –J.V. chewologykc.com

somersetridge.com

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31

Kelsey Earl owner, Little Butter Bakery

I

f you want to start your week off with a tasty treat,

a pastry box from Little Butter Bakery will do the trick.

Every Friday, owner Kelsey Earl posts her weekly offerings on her Instagram, and customers

Bri Burrows head brewer and co-owner, The Big Rip Brewing Co.

can reserve a box for Sunday pickup – if

says. “I think that’s my record.”

b

Her focus on highlighting local

around The Big Rip Brewing Co. over the past few years.

producers and listening to

She started working behind the bar in 2016, and she’s since

customer feedback has earned

worked her way up to head brewer and co-owner of the North

her a dedicated fan base, ensuring

Kansas City, Missouri, favorite. Currently, Big Rip is on an

pastries such as salted malt ball

upward trajectory: Brews such as the Pennywise Sweet Tater

brownies and Buck Tui BBQ pulled

Ale and the Umbrella Kolsch are winning awards at major

pork milk buns will get snatched up

beer competitions, and the brewery is putting in a canning

as long as she’s baking them. She

line to increase its distribution. Burrows is proud of the

loves to challenge herself with new

work Big Rip has done, and she hopes to continue increasing

combinations and also enjoys working

momentum. “Right now, I feel like we’re a bit of a hidden

with other local businesses to unlock

gem,” she says. “I’m really proud of the work we’ve done with

new flavor profiles. So far, Little Butter

brewing and what we’ve done for nonprofit organizations

Bakery has been intentionally limited in

like No Shame! and I Support the Girls. Getting our canning

scope, as Earl has been running the show

line going will hopefully get our name out there a little more

from her home kitchen. But she’s ready

and give us some more opportunities to continue growing.”

to take things to the next level in a commercial kitchen

Burrows is excited to continue to utilize her position to

space, where she’ll have access to more room and better equipment.

support marginalized groups, help diversify the Kansas City

Once she takes that leap, it seems likely that Little Butter Bakery will

beer industry, partner with local chefs and nonprofits and

they act quickly. “I once had a box sell out 17 minutes after I posted it,” Earl

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host more events. –J.B. bigripbrewing.com

photography by zach bauman

remain “little” in name only. –J.B. instagram.com/littlebutterbakery

ri Burrows might be a familiar face if you’ve been

RISING stars Jhy Coulter

T

he secret to

owner, Devoured

Jhy Coulter’s success with

was perfected, she and partner Brit Estes started posting photos of the pizzas on Instagram and selling pies to friends and neighbors.

her pandemic pizza pop-up,

Word of Coulter’s creative pies –

Devoured, is directly linked to her soulful creativity, love of good food and genuine interest in people.

A former graphic designer whose culinary career includes time spent as a sous chef at Webster House, Coulter was working in the executive kitchen of UMB

including the Vegan Bae with umamipacked portabella mushroom spread and the Herbie Birdie with roasted chicken, rosemary and sweet, nutty roasted butternut squash – quickly spread, and she began receiving invitations to pop

Bank in 2020 when she lost her job amid the

up at coffee shops, bars, breweries and retail

pandemic. With extra time on her hands, she

stores across Kansas City. Coulter is spending the

broke out a Gozney Roccbox portable pizza oven that she won in an online giveaway and began watching YouTube videos to learn how to make pizza dough. Once her now-famous “cloud crust”

winter looking for a permanent home for her pizza ovens; until she finds one, expect to see her popping up wherever the vibe is good and food and fun can be found in equal amounts. –J.V. devouredpopup.com

pork stew

Mark Dandurand

F

executive chef, Canary

rom catering tasty vegan cuisine and gluten-free desserts for touring rock bands to cooking over

open fire at a dude ranch in Wyoming, chef Mark Dandurand has worked some wildly varied culinary gigs during his career. When he finally touched back down in Kansas City, he flew under the radar at SoT, making clever and creative bar snacks, before joining Stock Hill as chef de cuisine. He then left to debut Fond, a concept of his own making, as part of the opening team of chefs inside Strang Hall in Overland Park, Kansas, only to discover that his type of comforting, slow-cooked food couldn’t find its footing with the hustle-and-bustle crowds inside a food hall. Not until he accepted the position as executive chef of Canary, the second concept from Keely Edgington and Beau Williams, did Dandurand finally find the right place to showcase his comforting cooking style. Whenever he can, he uses local ingredients to deliver dishes that taste like they have been bubbling on the stove all day, from pork stew made with tomatillo, green chiles, blistered shishito peppers, lime crema and pickled corn served with Yoli tortilla strips to braised beef short ribs served over creamed corn maque choux and crispy potatoes with beef demi-glace. Dandurand’s mastery of Mediterranean-meets-Midwestern cuisine makes his food taste fresh yet familiar, ensuring Kansas City diners will continue to seek out his cooking wherever his career takes him. –J.V. canarykc.com

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33

Tim Eisenhauer head baker, Barred Owl Butcher & Table, and co-owner, Barbacoas del Norte

Jordan Holman owner, Grand Daddy’s, and bar manager, Cherry Street Cellar

T

he hands that knead the bread at Barred Owl Butcher & Table (fresh pita,

anyone?) belong to Tim Eisenhauer, a founding member of the crew. Today, his involvement with the restaurant has leavened further with his participation in both in-house pop-ups, Barbacoas del Norte and Fujiko Izakaya. His tenure at Barred Owl is not his first foray into the restaurant industry; Eisenhauer operated his own woodfired pizza truck, Playing With Fire, for four years after working in other mid-Missouri kitchens, such as The Bistro at Les Bourgeois Vineyards and University Club. He traded in the pizza truck for his Barred Owl gig but didn’t give up the ever-important

J

ordan Holman doesn’t want to play by anyone else’s

culinary rules. This mindset has informed his multifaceted

Persian

involvement in the restaurant industry in Columbia, Missouri.

Cola

for creating seasonal alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages –

As the former beverage director of Beet Box, he became known such as the Persian Cola made with date syrup, pomegranate molasses and warm spices, balanced with fresh citrus – but his talents span far beyond the bartop. In 2020, spurred

aspect of live fire, which he’s repurposed for Barbacoas del Norte, where smoked

by the lack of opportunities to

barbecue with Mexican influences – think Texas-style brisket, Oaxacan-style chorizo

compose cocktails during the

and a mole brownie for dessert – is on offer alongside cocktails crafted by Frances

pandemic, he ventured back into

Harvey. Ask Eisenhauer where he draws inspiration and he’ll point to the chefs who’ve helped him work his way through the challenges that come with a career in the restaurant industry, including Barred Owl co-owner Joshua

the food world, where he’s spent the majority of his restaurantindustry career. Drawing on family traditions – including a secret barbecue sauce – Holman launched Grand Daddy’s, a bi-monthly pop-up that serves craft barbecue platters

Smith (also a Barbacoas del Norte

piled with ribs, whole smoked chickens and more. This

partner) and Kansas City’s Aaron Wells-

winter, he’s heading down to Texas to search for a larger

Morgan. Without giving too much away,

smoker that will liven up the concept, which is on hiatus until spring. In the coming months, you’ll also find his stamp on area

be an even hotter year for Barbacoas

drink menus, including that of Cherry Street Cellar, where

del Norte, which already sells out

he’s presently the bar manager, and budding café Taming

the web. –Jessica Vaughn Martin barredowlbutcher.com; instagram.com/barbacoas.del.norte

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the Dandelion (set to open in Ashland, Missouri, in early spring 2022), where he’s the food and beverage director. –J.V.M. instagram.com/grand. daddys.bbq; cherrystreetcellar.com

photography by travis duncan

Eisenhauer hints that 2022 is going to

almost immediately when word hits

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the

RISING stars Ian LaGrace & Tyler Lasley owners, Waypoint Brewing Co.

A

t the helm of Columbia’s newest craft microbrewery,

Waypoint Brewing Co., Ian LaGrace and Tyler Lasley are fresh to the professional world of brewing, but not to the craft. After serving on the frontlines in the United States Armed Forces, LaGrace took a desk job, but he grew tired of the monotony during the pandemic. So, he took his longtime hobby of homebrewing and, with the partnership of CrossFit Fringe owner Tyler Lasley, began wayfinding in the world of craft brewing. Now, you’ll find LaGrace brewing Waypoint’s signature hazy IPAs in the gym’s basement, the current home of the operation. The pair has plans for a big expansion in 2022, however, which will allow for more room to brew and for a taproom, where LaGrace is excited to share the stories behind the beers and to be an official, well, waypoint on his customers’ journey. He’s fascinated by ancient brewing methods, such as those used to make Peruvian chicha, a corn beer fermented with saliva. Although Waypoint won’t serve exactly that, history – along with music – are major inspirations for LaGrace. A former punk-rock band member, he’s already collaborated with The Social Room to create Boss Guy, a Mexican-inspired blonde ale served only at the venue. LaGrace takes the lead on the physical act of brewing while Lasley brings business savvy to the crew, creating the perfect mash for this up-and-coming brewery. –J.V.M. waypointbeer.com

the thighmaster

Casey Callans

c owner, Thunder Pies, and cook, Beet Box

asey Callans’ formal education was in the field of biology, but their professional ideals center more

on anthropology – in this case, through the lens of food. For Callans, discovering the why behind cultural food traditions – such as understanding the similarities between shawarma and al pastor and, in turn, the link between two different cultures – is central to culinary greatness. Through their own cooking, they create story-driven menus that merge different culinary traditions to give diners a new understanding of the food on their plates. As a founding member of Beet Box, Callans has endeavored to reach this goal while immersed in every aspect of the kitchen: working the line, developing recipes and, at now-shuttered sister concept The Strollway Market, managing a restaurant. This varied experience, along with previous stints at Nourish Café & Market and Cafe Berlin, prepared Callans to launch a pop-up concept, Thunder Pies, in the fall. The occasional venture, held at Beet Box, serves Chicago-style pizzas with a medley of ingenious toppings, such as the 1312 topped with soppressata, mortadella, hot honey and fresh mozzarella or the ThighMaster with bacon, broccolini, aged Cheddar and lemon. The pies are inspired by Callans’ own food story, borrowed from a chapter of their youth when deep-dish pizzas made a memorable appearance on the family dinner table. Keep up with Callans’ creativity through the Thunder Pies Instagram account, where pop-up events are first announced. –J.V.M. instagram.com/thunderpies_

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Steven Pursley

S

founder and chef, Ramen x Rui teven Pursley is on a mission to make ramen your go-to meal. After spending three years in his mother’s home

country of Japan, working – and, most importantly, learning – in multiple ramen shops, he returned to Missouri to launch his own ramen pop-up, Ramen x Rui, in St. Louis in 2018. For Pursley, it’s not about the noodles, the broth or the tare (sauce) individually; it’s about the harmony in each bowl of ramen. At Ramen x Rui, the pork shoyu ramen featuring housemade noodles and pork backfat rendered down in Japanese-style soy sauce is the O.G. – and the bowl that makes Pursley particularly nostalgic. “It conveys the feeling that I’m trying to share with people,” he says. “I think ramen is one of those foods that transcends cultures and appeals to different palates.” Recently, Ramen x Rui has popped up at Indo – where Pursley works as a line cook – and The Benevolent King, but Pursley is in the process of opening his own restaurant, Menya Rui, in Lindenwood Park, where he’ll continue to dish out noodles, including ramen, tsukemen (dipping ramen) and mazemen (brothless ramen), alongside appetizers such as cucumber salad and karaage (Japanese fried chicken).

Pursley’s passion is infectious, and he hopes to build camaraderie in and outside of the kitchen at the new brick-andmortar location. He says that making and eating great food is, of course, a priority, but he also wants everyone to enjoy themselves in the process. –Rachel Huffman instagram.com/ramenxrui_stl

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pork shoyu ramen

RISING stars

S

executive chef Scottie Corrigan, whether that’s the ierra Eaves considers herself a chronic researcher.

right way to skin a salmon or the difference between

When the chef was offered her former position in the

cognac and brandy. As much a voracious learner as she

kitchen at Guerrilla Street Food, for instance, she had

is a tenacious cook, Eaves traces her love of cooking

no experience cooking Filipino food – so she bought

back to the home-cooked meals her grandmother would

approximately 20 Filipino cookbooks to educate herself on the cuisine. “I just drown myself in recipes and culture and technique,” she says. And

Sierra Eaves sous chef, Commonwealth

serve every day of the week when she was growing up, and she doesn’t plan to stop cooking professionally anytime soon. “I can see myself doing

that’s an approach she’s brought along to her current role

this for the rest of my life,” she says. “I love food. I love

as the sous chef at Commonwealth, the new restaurant

the kitchen environment. It’s hard – there’s not a single

operating inside the Angad Arts Hotel in St. Louis’ Grand

person in any part of this industry who would tell you it’s

Center. Having never worked in fine dining until now, Eaves

easy, because it’s not – but it’s great. At the end of the

pushes herself to constantly learn new things; she even

night, I’m satisfied and I’m content with what I’m doing.”

keeps a journal to record what she learns each day from

–Heather Riske commonwealthstl.com

Nutella & cacao nib bagel

Lee Grochowski

L

sous chef, The Clover and the Bee ee Grochowski finds comfort in cooking for his family and enjoying big

meals together, from fried chicken to breakfast for dinner. As a sous chef at The Clover and The Bee in Webster Groves, Missouri, Grochowski is lucky enough to experience that same joy at work. “Honestly, it’s the best kitchen I’ve ever worked in,” he says. “Everyone works well together, and everyone works for each other.

Cooking in such a dynamic atmosphere feels like flying.” Since he was hired, it’s been Grochowski’s goal to learn as much as possible, improving and expanding his skills, abilities and knowledge of everything from different cuisines to menu

owner, Stroud City Bagels

The Clover and The Bee, knowing

w

that I’m also heading up O+O Pizza.”

hobby: baking. Specifically, he started making New York-style boiled bagels for

The menu at the popular breakfast

friends and family. Now, more than a year after Stroud launched his cottage baking

spot changes frequently, and

business, Stroud City Bagels, at Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, he shows no sign

Grochowski has mastered the art

of slowing down. An urban planner by day, Stroud has moved operations from his

of transitioning and training on new

home kitchen to a local commercial kitchen, and he has brought on two part-time

items while keeping the culture in

employees to help with boiling and baking the bagels. Stroud City offers classic

the kitchen positive, energetic and

flavors – plain, sesame, everything – but shines with its specialty flavors, which

safe. With Risk, he recently created

have included a rainbow bagel, a sweet potato bagel topped with cinnamon and

a charcuterie board that’s a real

a Nutella-swirl bagel topped with cacao nibs from Honeymoon Chocolates. The

knockout; it boasts deviled eggs,

loaded baked potato bagel is a fan favorite: Mashed russet potatoes are mixed

smoked ham, thick brined zucchini

right into the dough before the bagel is topped with chives, garlic and Cheddar.

development and ordering to scheduling. “He wants to be better in all aspects of the kitchen,” executive chef Mikey Risk says. “He wants to make my job easier at

photography by judd demaline

Adam Stroud hen the pandemic hit, Adam Stroud picked up a popular pandemic

slices and a black pepper biscuit.

“Really, my goal, since it’s a part-time passion project, is to have fun with it,” Stroud

In everything he does, Grochowski

says. “And also, if our customers have fun with us, I think that’s just a great thing.”

thinks creatively, works hard and

Although the market season is over, you can still find Stroud City Bagels at select

strives to make his team proud.

local cafés; check social media for the latest updates. –Kasey Carlson

–R.H. thecloverandthebee.com

facebook.com/stroudcitybagels

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37

Jodie Ferguson chef-owner, Clara B’s Kitchen Table

J

Will Mabrey

odie Ferguson has worked in the service industry since college, and after

graduating, she apprenticed at the University of Missouri’s University Club before being recruited to work in St. Louis by renowned restaurateur Bill Cardwell. Since then, she’s worked in restaurants, casinos and hotels, admittedly mostly behind the scenes – but that all changed when she was furloughed from The Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis in 2020. Ferguson used the opportunity to finally pursue her “retirement job,” opening a diner where she could share food inspired by both her Texas upbringing and her grandmother’s native Louisiana. To get proper support for a brick-and-mortar spot, though, she needed proof of concept, so she started Clara B’s Kitchen Table – named after her grandmother – as a food truck. With Clara B’s, Ferguson is making

biscuit breakfast sandwich

sous chef, Timothy’s The Restaurant

w

orking at a resort in South Carolina,

Will Mabrey fell in love with the hustle and bustle of the restaurant industry. In 2012, he and his now-wife moved to St. Louis, where he spent years working in the kitchens of Flying Saucer Draught Emporium, Herbie’s and Yorklore before

Everything on her menu is made from

becoming the sous chef of Timothy’s The Restaurant, which

scratch, from buttermilk biscuits with

opened last summer in Creve Coeur, Missouri. Co-owner

duck fat gravy to wood-fired shrimp

and executive chef Tim Metz credits Mabrey for working

and grits with andouille sausage,

tirelessly to perfect the menu, and Mabrey admits that he

roasted vegetables and

is, in a sense, a perfectionist. “I want every plate of grilled

a tomato gravy.

salmon to look exactly the same, but I also worked with

And from the

Tim to make sure the salt levels, the firing times, even the

Texas-style

amounts of vinegar for each dish were exactly right,” he says.

breakfast

“Maybe I’m more of a completionist.” He had an especially

tacos to

fun time developing the tater tots featuring mashed and

whatever special Ferguson is

shredded potatoes and fontina folded into pastry dough,

cooking up, you can taste the passion

which are fried and then served with housemade curry

she puts into each bite. “I mean,

ketchup. Within 10 years, Mabrey might consider debuting his

what’s better than waking up and

own restaurant – he’s already been playing around with a pork

having fresh biscuits with someone

belly theme, making pastrami and more out of pork belly at

feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 2 2

home. –R.H. timothysstl.com

photography by judd demaline

a name for herself in both St. Louis and southern Illinois, and it’s no surprise why.

smiling at you?” –K.C. clarabs.com

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the

RISING stars

F

Leila Miller bartender, The Lucky Accomplice

or Leila Miller, it all started with a tequila fairy. In

was working as the beverage director of Salt + Smoke, catch

March 2020, as the pandemic started to wreak havoc across

the eyes of the team at The Lucky Accomplice – chef Logan

the restaurant industry, St. Louis-owned Una Vida Tequila

Ely’s acclaimed Fox Park establishment – and she was soon

announced it would donate a free bottle of tequila to any

offered a bartending position. Here, she works hand in hand

hospitality worker who had been laid off in the St. Louis

with bar manager Corey Moszer; the two spend hours on R&D

and Wichita, Kansas, markets. The self-dubbed “Quarantine

each week, poring over books, testing out new ingredients

Tequila Fairy” then challenged those bartenders to craft a

and learning about the different flavor profiles of in-season

cocktail highlighting the tequila – and Miller placed second

produce. And although she’s proud of the cocktails she and

with her aptly named “Who Cut the Cheese?” featuring

Moszer develop together, Miller’s happiest when she’s working

goat cheese-infused tequila, tomatillo tincture, grilled

on the fly, crafting something unique tailored to a customer’s

watermelon syrup, lime juice, pistachio milk, balsamic

own preferences and seeing the look on their face when they

vinegar, cilantro leaves and egg white. “That’s kind of what

try something they’ve never had before. At just 23 years old,

put me on the market,” she says. The competition helped

Miller is quickly becoming one of St. Louis’ most promising

Miller, who had recently moved home to St. Charles and

talents behind the bar. –H.R. theluckyaccomplice.com

Castacán

Alex Henry

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chef-owner, Sureste

ith Sureste, Alex Henry is finally striking out on his own. The chef, who’s formerly

worked at Cleveland-Heath, Vicia and Nixta – where he was named a 2018 Eater Young Gun semifinalist – recently opened his first restaurant inside the new City Foundry STL Food Hall in Midtown. Sureste brings a distinctly regional take on Mexican cuisine to St. Louis: Henry, who grew up on the Yucatán Peninsula and learned to cook from his mother and grandmother, specializes in traditional southeastern Mexican dishes made with Midwestern ingredients. The from-scratch menu changes almost daily, but Henry spares no detail throughout – not satisfied with the taste or texture of commercially available corn tortillas, for instance, he sources local corn to nixtamalize and grind in-house to make his own. With dishes including cochinita pibil (an iconic dish of the Yucatán region featuring tender braised pork), castacán (crispy pork belly with avocado salsa, radish and tortillas) and popular street foods including salbutes and panuchos, Henry is cooking his food on his terms while simultaneously challenging Midwestern diners’ perceptions of traditional Mexican fare. “I get to serve exactly the kind of food I want to serve,” he says. “It feels really freeing. Once they try it, most people seem to be pretty into it and open their minds to new stuff.” –H.R. facebook.com/surestemexican

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39

Alyssa Hughes farm manager, Urban Roots Farm

Tim cook

m

sous chef, Progress

uch like the brightly colored snacking peppers

hen it comes to describing

sous chef Tim Cook, Progress executive chef and co-owner Daniel Ernce doesn’t pull any

and zinnias she grows, Alyssa Hughes exudes cheerfulness.

punches. “Honestly, he’s the hands-down

When she’s out tending the fields alongside farmhands or

best pound-for-pound chef in the area,” he

setting up flower displays for farm-to-table events, she

says. “He’s got the best résumé I’ve ever seen.” That résumé includes stints in Chicago

offers a warm hello to visitors of Urban Roots Farm. In 2018,

at Alinea and in New York City at The Aviary and The Clocktower, the latter of which

the farm’s owners, Adam Millsap and Melissa Young-Millsap, relocated to Bentonville, Arkansas, to help start an urban farm residential community. Hughes was brought on as the family farm’s first paid employee in 2014, so she was a natural fit to take over as farm manager. She knows the exact lay of the land, and she has led the farm during some of its most profitable years. A few years ago, she helped introduce a

apples

earned its first Michelin star during his time there. When Cook and his wife found out

with

they felt like Springfield, Missouri, was a great next step for their family. In July 2020,

foie gras

they were expecting their first child, however, they knew they wanted to relocate, and Cook joined the team at Progress, where he collaborates with Ernce on the seasonal menus. “It’s really fun to be able to just sit down and talk food with [Ernce] because his background is entirely different than mine,” Cook says. “He kind of gravitates toward Asian flavors and Nordic style, and

new monthly CSA payment structure, making the program

my background is mostly in Italian food

more accessible for people on a budget. Although Hughes

and classic French cooking.” Take,

briefly spent time operating her own native landscaping permaculture business with her husband, she missed farming

for instance, a recent seasonal dish of apples with foie gras.

full-time. “I realized that if I was going to learn how to make

Served with golden apple

small farming financially viable, this is the best place to do

mousse, pickled apples

it,” Hughes says. “Springfield has a really amazing network of

and fried sunchokes, the

small farmers that gladly and freely share information with one another.” Hughes and her husband recently purchased a homestead with farmable land, and she has dreams of raising livestock and practicing regenerative agriculture there.

–Tessa Cooper urbanrootsfarm.com photography by starboard & Port Creative

40

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shaved foie gras torchon offered an approachable way to consume the classic French delicacy. –T.C. springfieldprogress.com photography by dean groover

RISING stars Sam Elliott

Coffee Co. and Kingdom Coffee, and he even started a roasting program at Victory Mission + Ministry. Now at The Coffee Ethic, he’s tried out a variety of roles since joining the shop’s team – he’s designed seasonal beverages

head roaster and

with unassuming combinations, such as blood

green buyer, The Coffee Ethic

S

orange syrup and Askinosie Chocolate, and also led barista training. But he’s since found his niche as the head roaster and green buyer, a role that allows him to create all the flavor

am Elliott wants to make specialty

profiles of the coffees while also overseeing

coffee culture more approachable, and being

sourcing – an aspect of the industry that he

an amiable person himself, he’s well-equipped

hopes to continue to explore in his career.

for the mission. These days, he mostly works at

“I would love to be able to be in the coffee

The Coffee Ethic’s off-site roastery, prepping

industry long-term,” Elliott says. “For most of

beans for the cup. “We want to create a really

my coffee experience so far, I’ve been working

good product that’s appealing for coffee snobs

on the cup end of the process. So my goal

and accessible for coffee-and-cream people,”

would be to get closer to the farm. I would love

he says. Although Elliott is still in his 20s, he’s

to get to know the farmers on a personal level.”

already racked up almost nine years of industry

–T.C. thecoffeeethic.com

experience. He worked as a barista at Eurasia

photography by Riley McCullough

Miguel Guzman chef and co-owner, El Tamale Drip

M

iguel Guzman’s tamales have quite the origin story.

Before he opened El Tamale Drip inside Sweet Boy’s Neighborhood Bar in Springfield, Missouri, you needed an in with Guzman to get one of his tamales. Around the time bar-goers would start craving a late-night bite after kitchens had closed, he’d unveil a cooler full of homemade tamales stuffed with chicken, pork or vegetables.

It was his friend-turned-business partner, Phillip Ulesich, who encouraged Guzman to open a more official business, knowing his tamales would be the perfect dish to serve out of the limited 400-square-foot kitchen in the back of Sweet Boy’s. Guzman’s tamales hark back to his childhood; growing up in a large family, his mom was frequently cooking from-scratch meals and would always encourage her kids to get involved in the process. At El Tamale Drip, Guzman’s cochinita pibil tamale highlights a signature dish from his family’s home in the Yucatán Peninsula that his mom would often prepare for the family while the rest of them slept. “I haven’t really seen her make [the Yucatán-style pulled pork] because she’d usually slow-cook the pork at around 2am,” he says. “I was never up that late, but it would be ready by 8 o’clock in the morning.” –T.C. facebook.com/ElTamaleDrip

photography by dean groover

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41

industry innovators

kC Brian Roberts owner, The Black Pantry After the death of George Floyd in the summer of 2020, Brian Roberts and his wife came up with a strategic plan to support more Black businesses with their dollars. The pair began ordering products made by Black-owned

co-owners, Platypus Bar industry

executive director,

veterans

owner, Thai Express

To say that Patrick Nett is generous is an understatement. Over the past two years, the owner of Thai Express in Springfield, Missouri, showed care for

Columbia Farmers Market

Meredith

both his employees and his community

Barry and

through his actions. At the onset of

best of the best. When they felt they

After a season of life spent in restaurants

Tony Saputo

the pandemic, when toilet paper, flour,

in The Big Easy and beyond, Corrina Smith

are doing

rice and yeast were hard to find, he

companies from across the country to test in their home and then select the had sourced enough quality food and snack items, coffees, cocktail mixes and body

never dreamed that agriculture would be

more than just

the center of her professional endeavors.

But going on a decade of service with

partnered with his wholesale supplier,

serving great

SGC Foodservice, to offer those items

drinks: They’re raising

at cost to his customers. And this past

the Columbia Farmers Market, she says

the next generation of bartenders in

year, the small-business owner closed

launched The

she’s found her home here. Under Smith’s

St. Louis. Barry, the former beverage

the restaurant for a week and treated

products, they Black Pantry

leadership, the market has grown from

director of the Angad Arts Hotel and

his employees to a paid Florida

mobile

its simple and temporary pop-up tent

the now-shuttered Grand Tavern, and

vacation. Nett also

market.

arrangement to a permanent home in the

Saputo, formerly the beverage director of

donated 10 percent of

same spot, now covered (and heated!). It

Consips (The Midwestern Meat & Drink,

the sales from the

also operates year-round with both food

Start Bar, The Wheelhouse), first met on a

week prior to the

and education on offer and an average

bus trip to a distillery in Tennessee. Now,

shared tipping

of 4,000 customers each day. When

the pair has combined their extensive

pool so they

has a background in marketing and

Smith saw the part-time job posting

experience behind the bar to open

would have

merchandise management – found

back in 2013, she figured her experience

Platypus, a cocktail bar in The Grove.

extra spending

success selling a wide breadth of

managing an artisan market might make

Here, the staff is composed of not just

money. “With

products made by Black entrepreneurs.

her a good candidate; as the board

expert mixologists but

how hard they

And Kansas City quickly took notice:

realized her impact, her role broadened

also people who

work and how

After months of pop-ups, Roberts

to its current capacity. During her tenure,

have never set

much they mean

was able to open his own retail store

she’s helped the market win a collection

foot behind a

to me, I just wanted

inside of Made in KC's new flagship and

of accolades, including expanding SNAP-

bar, creating an

to do more for them than

corporate headquarters in Midtown.

matching benefits for patrons, a USDA

environment

what a normal employer would do,” he

The partnership was a win, as it offered

grant to provide vendors with website

where aspiring

says. That’s a mentality instilled in him

Roberts significant growth in a short

and marketing design service, a “COVID

bartenders can

by his late mother, who he opened Thai

amount of time, and he retains 100

Crusher” award from the city for its

find their way

Express with before she passed away

percent of the ownership of what he

pandemic-era protocols and curbside

thanks to the guidance

in 2010. “My biggest inspiration is my

refers to as “Kansas City’s Dopest

service and, most recently, the title of

of a trusted, experienced team. Rather

mom,” Nett says. “All of my experience

General Store.” Coming full circle,

No. 1 farmers’ market in the nation by

than pages of cocktails, you’ll find a

and everything that I’ve done and learned

Roberts now happily hosts pop-ups

the American Farmland Trust. For Smith,

small, curated menu so that trainees can

is thanks to her.” This year, he plans to

for other local entrepreneurs in his

though, the majority credit for success

continuously learn something new. With

open a second location of Thai Express

own retail space. He’s contributing

goes to the community that’s supported

expert mentorship and a collaborative,

on Republic Road, and he’s currently

to the community while encouraging

the market since its inception in 1980.

inclusive environment, Barry and Saputo

working with James Tillman, who owns

budding entrepreneurs to take the leap,

–J.V.M. columbiafarmersmarket.org

hope that people will not just be attracted

the Springfield First Watch locations, to

confident in knowing that there is a

to the bar industry but will stay in the

learn the ropes of franchising with hopes

place for their products on his shelves.

industry and thrive. –K.C.

of expanding even more. –T.C.

–J.V. blackpantry.co

drinkplatypus.com

facebook.com/417thaiexpress

Hosting pop-ups across Kansas City, Roberts – who

42

Corrina Smith

Meredith Barry & Tony Saputo

Patrick Nett

feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 2 2

illustrations by jeremy berger

Helping the families of those who MADE THE ULTIMATE SACRIFICE

or suffered a catastrophic injury for our safety.

In Memoriam

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Missouri Dept. of Corrections MetroLink (G4S Security Solutions) *EOW: 1/27/21 *EOW: 1/31/21

Firefighter Rodney Heard St. Louis Fire Dept. *EOW: 6/15/21

Officer Brian Pierce, Jr. Officer Tyler Timmins Brooklyn Police Dept. *EOW: 8/4/21

Battalion Chief

Pontoon Beach Police Dept.

Marvin Shaffrey *EOW: 10/26/21 Cedar Hill Fire Protection District *EOW: 11/2/21

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Cape Girardeau Fire Dept. *EOW: 12/1/21

Thank You BackStoppers Supporters Since 1959, The BackStoppers has assisted more than 180 families of police officers, firefighters and publicly-funded paramedics/EMTs in the region who made the ultimate sacrifice or suffered a catastrophic injury in the line of duty.

TheBackStopperssupportsfamiliesoffallenheroesbypayingoffalldebt,providinghealthanddentalinsurance,reimbursing for out-of-pocket medical expenses, and assisting with tuition and educational costs from day care through university.

The BackStoppers provides roughly $2.5 million in assistance each year. We are sincerely grateful for your dedication to our mission that made this assistance possible. Thank you for your generous support. *End of Watch

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Please join at www.backstoppers.org

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Donations are tax deductible.

Send your check, payable to The BackStoppers to: The BackStoppers P.O. Box 795168, St. Louis, MO 63179-0700 OR Visit our website: www.backstoppers.org

for more information and to make an online donation.

@BackStoppers Serving the following counties: In Missouri Franklin, Jefferson, Lincoln, Perry, Pike, St. Charles, St. Francois, St. Louis City, St. Louis County, Ste. Genevieve, Warren, Washington and Cape Girardeau In Illinois Bond, Clinton, Madison, Monroe and St. Clair / j a nu a ry 2 02 2

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