Food & Win Pairineg
H E A R N D E N
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TAKE TWO Wine expert Steve Hearnden writes about what to drink with game and chocolate in his latest column
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based at Strumpshaw Post Office (not online though). For other wines, visit www.tastebudswines.co.uk or contact Steve at steve@tastebudswines.co.uk
S T E V E
Both wines are available from Tastebuds Wines,
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MANY REGULAR readers will know that I do not take too much notice of the seasons. I write about Christmas food in April and asparagus when the English season is all but finished! So for the September issue, I am writing about an important date in August for us foodies. In the good old days it was as important as the Beaujolais Nouveau race as restaurants strove to be the first to serve grouse. I remember one member of a London gentleman’s club asking me to get him a bottle of Nuits St George to accompany his grouse, but I am afraid I declined. I was surprised not to be sacked but he did accept my recommendation of 2eme Cru Bordeaux which we had on the wine list. At the end of his meal he complimented me on my excellent choice of wine and said that he would note it for future occasions. Claret, as red Bordeaux is affectionately known, can be a high priority for wine investments and for drinking, but the prices these days for a good claret are very high. The Chateau Perron la Gourdine 2013, which I stock, is drinking well but not within the Grand Cru classification. It is produced in an area where the two rivers split which can make for very unpredictable weather. This deepish red wine has blackberries and redcurrants on the nose. The taste does show some tannins but once the wine has breathed a while these diminish on the taste. At £12.95 a bottle, it is a good value claret. I also have a very sweet tooth and so the dessert, pudding or sweet section of any menu is a main attraction for me. I often think that I could miss the other courses and just eat three from the last list. I love chocolate and so a perfect pud for me would be chocolate fondant. Now, of course, the problem starts because not all wines would accompany this chocolate heaven. In the 1980s, Moët and Chandon produced a special drink to go with this sort of dish. Made just up the road from Epernay, from Champagne grapes, Petit Liquorelle was born. Because of the acids and fats, Champagne is a non runner with chocolate so they created this special beverage. I have not seen it for years so assume it is now out of production. However, not all is lost, as, apart from a Romanian red wine I import, there is another French wine which is perfect. Made by Martine Paget at Domaine la Bouysse, the Cartagene is wonderful. At 15 per cent, it is not to be drunk lightly and you should only use small glasses, too. It has a gorgeous clear, dark, amber colour with aromas of spirit and candied fruit. Walnuts, plum and honey are not far away. It is made from wine and eau de vie de marc, the grapes are Grenache Blanc and Carignan Blanc. The vines are 40 years old and the grapes are late picked to get the most sugar, and then, after fermentation, the eau de vie de marc is added and the wine is left in oak barrels for seven years! They only make 2000 half bottles at a time and it is not cheap at £19.50 per 500ml bottle, but it will last in the fridge for many puddings or just as a small aperitif.