Feast Norfolk Magazine November 16 Issue 11

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Cit y Co ll e g e's De b u t Re s t a u r a n t ste ps up to t he p la t e f o r Ch r is t m a s

N OVE MBE R 2016


* Win NYE a t ic k e t s a n df e e d e lux e c o f m ake r





ISSN 2397-1673

9 772397 167017

apple JUICE


Eating Out in the Burnhams

Editor's Letter -


to our November issue which sees us getting ready for Christmas. It is such a busy time of year, isn’t it? Great fun as you get to catch up with family and friends but stressful, nevertheless, as you have to cram in all that shopping, cooking and eating! I love to entertain - there’s nothing nicer than a house full of people whether it’s the children’s friends or our friends - sitting around our large kitchen table is where memories are made. I love ‘pick and mix’ meals, where you offer a super selection of say local cheeses, artisan breads, charcuterie, wonderful seasonal fruits and veggies, chutneys and more - especially seafood treats, which are always my favourite. This month there’s plenty of inspiration for recipes, whether you’re after a delicious sweet dish or something quite fancy for a dinner party. Kate Barmby from Brooke tells us about her GBBO experiences and shares a walnut pastry recipe, MasterChef Monica Galetti serves up a partridge with pear dish and Mark Elvin, head chef at The Boars in Spooner Row has a fabulous salmon starter, made with plenty of Bullards Norwich Dry Gin. Yes please!



As ever our columnists keep us on our toes: Charlotte Gurney from White House Farm on the outskirts of Norwich is getting ready for Christmas with all manner of goodies on offer, Steve Hearnden pairs wines with both roast beef and trifle, and our free from writer Sara Matthews has another showstopping cake for us to enjoy. Add in a timely reminder about food waste from chef Ian Haste, a trip to the glorious Congham Hall Hotel in West Norfolk and a meal out at The Hero in Burnham Overy Staithe and there’s the usual feast of goodies for you to tuck into. And next month, you can expect more turkey - and all the trimmings, of course! Congratulations to Linda from East Ruston who won our splendid Briarfields competition, as featured in our September issue - and don’t forget to enter our two great competitions this month. Keep in touch via Twitter and Facebook.

"It is suc h a bus y tim e of yea r, isn’t it? Gre at fun as you get to catc h up wit h fam ily and frie nds but stre ssfu l, nev ert hele ss, as you hav e to cra m in all tha t sho ppi ng, coo king and eat ing!"

Happy reading.

Sarah Hardy SARAH HARDY, Editor sarah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk




In this issue



2 T EA



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City Col lege's De but Res taur ant step s up to the plat e for Chr istm as

N OV EM B ER 2016


*Win NYE a tick ets andfee deluxe cof mak er





9 772397 167017


apple JUICE Eating Out in the Burnhams

55 It’s party time. Christmas is fast approaching so enjoy a glass of fizz or two - check out our gadget and gizmo guide to help you open the stu�!




03 Editor’s letter 42 How to subscribe


10 Our regular round up of the best events and activities in the region this month 14 The news and gossip spread - all you need to know! 60 We preview the Holt Christmas Lights Switch On later this month and tell you where to eat in this charming town


16 Meet the new owners and the new chef at The Old Ram at Tivetshall St Mary in South Norfolk 18 Woodforde’s Brewery in The Broads is gearing up to its open weekend in December - find out more 28 Our regular City College feature looks at the Debut Restaurant within the Hotel School, and why good front of house skills are so important


21 Sarah Hardy heads to Nelson territory for a traditional Norfolk dish as she tries out The Hero in Burnham Overy Staithe 24 Rachael Young eats out at the Woolf and Social, a trendy new spot in Norwich


26 Our famous foodie this month is Humphrey Berney from the vocal group Blake, who appear at Lowestoft Marina this month 30 Emma Outten meets Plan Eat Save ambassador and YouTube chef, Ian Haste 36 Kate Barmby, from Brooke, shares her memories of her time in The Great British Bake Off


34 For our Anglia Farmers feature, Emma Outten takes a trip to Suffolk, to find out how Hillfarm Oils became the UK’s original producer of cold pressed rapeseed oil 44 Emma Outten visits Archer’s Butchers in Norwich to meet the third generation of the family to run the popular shop 52 For our artisan producer spot, we meet Andrew Jarvis of Sandringham Apple Juice 56 Our chef of the month is Mark Elvin from The Boars in Spooner Row, near Wymondham 72 Jarrold’s selection of cookbooks has something from Mary Berry plus an intriguing one on recreating a 70s dinner party! 86 Norfolk farmer James Graham tells us all about Peele’s Norfolk Black turkeys in our Last Bite slot




07 French chef Franck Pontais conjures up three party recipes for this festive time of year 13 Chef Alex Firman, from the Garden Kitchen Cafe at Hoveton Hall, serves up a couple of dishes from our first taster evening 39 GBBO contestant Kate Barmby serves up pear and frangipane pastries 40 Our free from writer Sara Matthews offers us an impressive main course for a Christmas dinner party - plus another of her stunning cakes 69 MasterChef Monica Galetti has a new book out which teaches vital skills and suggests plenty of seasonal recipes, including one with partridge 75 Reader Sue Knott from Kessingland shares her recipe for Thai red curry


47 Steve Hearnden matches wines with a Sunday roast and his fav pud, trifle! 48 Andy Newman explains the natural affinity between wood and wine 50 Master Brewer Belinda Jennings looks at beer trends in the run up to Christmas


32 This month our artisan baker Steve Winter plans to celebrate good old fashioned bread and butter

21 61 Farmer’s wife Charlotte Gurney is getting ready for Christmas 65 Norfolk food champion Charlie Hodson joins us as a columnist and tells us all about a special sausage 66 Sarah Ruffhead shares her best eats of the month with us 67 Justin Wright of Lovewell Blake’s food and drink team discusses changes to food labelling


76 Mark Nicholls heads to Lausanne in Switzerland for beautiful scenery and plenty of chocolate 81 Congham Hall is this month’s destination for a luxury staycation - especially thanks to its glorious spa


84 Ellen Mary has been growing Jerusalem artichokes and offers us a healthy recipe with which to enjoy them


74 Win four tickets to the New Year’s Eve Ball at Carrow Road, thanks to Delia’s Canary Catering 80 Win a Smarter Coffee Machine, courtesy of John Lewis


Sarah Hardy, Editor sarah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Emma Outten, Deputy Editor emma@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Scott Nicholson, Designer studio@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Rachael Young Senior Account Manager | 07900 823731 rachael@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Hannah McKinney Senior Account Manager | 07917 122829 hannah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Geoff Clark Senior Account Manager | 07776 233659 geoff@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk


Andy Newman, Rachael Young, Mark Nicholls, Justin Wright, Charlotte Gurney, Steve Winter, Charlie Hodson, Steve Hearnden, James Graham, Kate Barmby, Sarah Ruffhead, Sara Matthews, Ellen Mary, Belinda Jennings


FEAST NORFOLK MAGAZINE is published by Feast (Eastern) Limited - 21 Market Place, Dereham, Norfolk NR19 2AX


MICROPRESS, Fountain Way, Reydon Business Park, Reydon, Suffolk, 1P18 6DH


French chef Franck Pontais, now based in South Norfolk, offers us a trio of dishes full of Gallic flair and fit for any Christmas party

Ooh La La!

It’s Party Time VISIT


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FILLET of LAMB marinated in honey and shallots, served just pink on a rosemary skewer dipped in salty crushed peanuts

METHOD This fillet of lamb, the noisette, is the meat that you’ll find on a rack of lamb once the bones have been removed 1. Finely chop the shallots and mix with the honey. Marinate the lamb in this mixture overnight 2. To make the salty peanut paste, blend the nuts with one small spoon of honey in a little mixer. If you don’t have a mixer, use a pestle and mortar 3. Roll this paste between two pieces of cling film and remove the cling film on the top. Put to one side 4. Remove the lamb from the marinade and cook in a hot oven for 10 to 12 minutes 5. Leave the meat to rest for 5 minutes and wrap the whole fillet with the peanut paste 6. Cut into portions, remove the cling film, and use the rosemary sprig as a skewer. Serve with a pinch of rock salt

Serves Four



INGREDIENTS 200g fillet of lamb; 100ml of honey; 2 small shallots; 15 sprigs of rosemary; 150g of salty peanuts; rock salt, to taste



ARISIAN CHEF FRANCK PONTAIS is well known in the region as a private chef and cookery teacher. He originally, at the age of just 14, trained as a butcher in France, and went on to study at Ceproc, one of the country’s leading culinary schools, where he discovered more about the French tradition of the traiteur (perhaps our nearest translation is: deli). At 22, he came to Harrods' food halls, was then headhunted to run the deli counters at Selfridges, in both London and Birmingham. He then worked for Rhubarb Food Design, a London catering company which specialised in producing food for VIP functions such as Stella McCartney’s wedding, James Bond premieres, and top society events. He has appeared on TV food shows such as Ready, Steady, Cook and has also produced his own cookbook, Terrines and Verrines. Franck, who now lives near Beccles, is all about beautiful looking food - just as you’d expect from a Frenchman, of course!






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BLACK PUDDING and BRAISED APPLES served hot in a shot glass with a flambĂŠ of Cognac

INGREDIENTS 450g of black pudding; 2 Pink Lady apples; 10g of unsalted butter; 2tbsp of brandy/cognac; salt and pepper; oil for frying METHOD 1. Buy the most common black pudding, (not with the big diameter), and cut 10 slices 2mm thick. Deep fry the slices and then cool on kitchen roll 2. Cut the rest of the black pudding into little cubes of 1cm square 3. Peel and score the apples, reserve 10 wedges on the side and cut the rest into cubes 4. In a hot pan, melt the butter and sear all the apples for 2 minutes, then add the cubes of black pudding and carry on cooking for another 2 minutes 5. Pour the Cognac into the pan and flambĂŠ (be aware of your eyebrows!) 6. Season to taste and arrange in small shot glasses 7. Garnish with the apple wedges and the fried slices of black pudding 8. Serve hot and enjoy

Serves Ten


INGREDIENTS 250g of caster sugar; 100ml of double cream; 100ml of milk; 100g of dark chocolate; 100g of dried sour cherries

BLACK FOREST FUDGE Makes around 25 pieces METHOD 1. Grease a 20cm long x 3cm deep tin with butter and line it with baking paper 2. Place all the ingredients, except the chocolate and cherries, into a medium to large sized saucepan and cook over a moderate heat 3. Stir the mixture constantly, until the sugar has dissolved, then bring it to a gentle boil 4. Stir slowly and gently 5. When the mixture reaches

around 116°C-118°C (use a digital thermometer), remove it from the heat 6. Fold in the chocolate (chopped into small pieces) and sour cherries and pour the hot mixture into a greased tin 7. Chill in the fridge or at room temperature until it is set, then cut it into squares 8. They can be stored in an airtight plastic container for around a week - but only if you manage to resist their temptation

r e b m e v o N What's On


Learn about Italian food and wine at Briarfields Hotel in Titchwell on November 4, with the help of Orion Wines expert, Elena Ciurletti, plus enjoy six delicious Italian-inspired tasting courses, each paired with a perfect wine. Visit www.briarfieldshotelnorfolk.co.uk


The 13th Bury St Edmunds Christmas Fair takes place from November 24 to 27. The Fayre will extend from the historic Angel Hill and Abbey Gardens to the modern Arc shopping centre and The Apex. With more than 300 stalls selling a variety of gifts, crafts, food, seasonal produce and much more, there is something for everyone Visit www.burystedmundschristmas fayre.co.uk


The Globe Inn at Wells-next-the-Sea is holding Beaujolais Nouveau nights on November 18 and 19. Celebrate the new wine of the season with a French-inspired five-course meal, and all to the music of Jacques & Co (accordion and voice). Visit www.theglobeatwells.co.uk




The series of wine at dinners at the Swan Spa Lavenham Hotel & mber continues on Nove nes 18, when Italian wi the d en Sp . us foc are the Barolo evening sampling ppo wines from the Co hosted Estate, Piedmont, porter, by exclusive UK im e. It all Thibault Lavergn éritif begins with an ap lounge, and canapés in the -course followed by a three te dinner in the priva m. roo ing din


Also, while we’re on the same subject, our kitchen gardener Ellen Mary, founder of the No Fear Gardening group in the city, is inviting gin lovers to learn all about botanicals in gin, with the help of Norfolk wine and spirit tasting company VanVino, at The Library on November 9.

Wine Tasting Dinner tasting

atlavenham.co.uk Visit www.theswan

Discover some cracking good wines to drink over the Christmas period with The Library restaurant’s end of year celebratory wine tasting and dinner called Cracking Good Christmas wines on November 16. Whether you’re planning to serve salmon, turkey or Christmas pudding, Jayne Raffles and resident wine expert Graham Philpott have selected a stunning collection of tasty finds. Visit www.thelibrary restaurant.co.uk

The big Christmas lights switch on takes place in Norwich on November 17 and will also herald the UK’s first immersive ‘Tunnel of Light’, on Hay Hill. The festive celebrations will then continue with a pop-up artisan Norwegian Handcrafters Christmas market (November 19 to 24), when chalets will spill with crafts, drink and continental food with Christmas music playing in the background. Also, film projections will appear onto two iconic city buildings: the Art Deco City Hall and Norwich Castle Museum and Art Gallery. Visit www.cityofstories.co.uk/tag/christmas

The Assembly House Christmas Fair will take place on November 26 and 27. This popular event continues to draw a crowd to the lovely Grade I-listed, Georgian Assembly House on Theatre Street in the heart of the city. There'll be an array of stalls, with everything from festive decorations and foodstuffs to pottery, jewellery, woodcraft, glassware, textiles, wooden toys, plants and much more. Visit www.assemblyhousenorwich.co.uk



It’s nearly Christmas so expect lights to be switched on and festive fare galore, says Emma Outten


Celebrate the start of Advent with a unique Moving Feast at Norwich Cathedral and The Maids Head Hotel, Tombland, on November 26. The evening begins at the Priors Hall, where you will be served your starter, and listen to stories of the Cathedral from a City of Norwich tourist guide. Your guide will then escort you to the Maids Head Hotel, where you will enjoy your main course and dessert created by the 2 AA Rosette kitchen. Visit www.maidsheadhotel.co.uk

The White Horse, Brancaster, is holding its annual A Celebration of Seafood evening on November 14. Cyril and Ben Southerland will be in attendance, spinning a yarn or two of shellfish tales and their life in the village, and fine delicious 'fishy' courses include Cyril’s mussel popcorn. Visit www. whitehorsebrancaster.co.uk



TASTY TREATS (Pictured right) Adnams Cellar and Kitchen in Southwold is hosting a Way with Words Literature Festival Drinks Reception on November 11. It’s a perfect chance to try the festival sponsor’s new rye-based spirits and pick up a few Christmas gifts. With guests such as Ben Fogle, Nicholas Crane, and David Owen speaking throughout the weekend at the festival, it’s one not to be missed. Visit www.wayswithwords.co.uk www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk


The first Holt Hall Christmas Fair takes place on November 26 and 27. There will be 60 stalls showcasing an inspiring array of locally produced, innovative and quality Christmas gifts including locally produced food and drink. Refreshments will be available from a wood burning oven and traditional shepherd's hut. Booking required. Visit www.facebook.com/ LomaxBrettEvents

Taster Evening -


Ale x F ir m a n


Around 50 gues ts enjoyed a specia l taster evening a t

Kestre l Kitche ns near Norwich. Emma Outten was there





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ser ves 4 as a starte r


INGREDIENTS For the cigar 16 thin slices of Parma ham; 24 of mozzarella pearls or bocconcini; 100g of flour; 1 egg; 150g of breadcrumbs; ½ litre of sunflower oil for deep frying For the pesto 1 bunch of basil; 1 clove of garlic; 50g of toasted pine nuts; 50g of grated Parmesan; 200ml of olive oil; 200g of peas METHOD Method for the 'cigar' 1. Lay 2 sheets of Parma ham on your work surface, one slightly overlapping the other 2. Place 3 bocconcini at one end of the ham and roll up like a cigar (ensure the ends are folded in halfway through rolling so that no cheese can escape) 3. Lay out the flour, egg (beaten) and breadcrumbs in a row in shallow containers or trays, roll the cigar firstly in the flour then coat in egg, then breadcrumbs; then again in the eggs and lastly in the breadcrumbs again (a tip to avoid fingertips covered in floury/eggy/crumby gloop is to have a dry hand for the flour and crumb, and the other for eggs) 4. Heat a pan of sunflower oil to around 165°C and deep fry your cigar until golden brown; take out of the oil, then place onto kitchen paper to soak up any excess 5. Serve 2 per person as a starter with the pea pesto and a few leaves (or pea shoots!) Method for the pesto 1. In a blender, blitz the basil, Parmesan, garlic, pine nuts and oil until smooth 2. Add your peas and pulse until roughly puréed; check the flavour, and, if it needs, add more of whatever ingredient you feel necessary


INGREDIENTS 4 x 150-200g cod portions, pin bones removed, skin on; Swiss chard, hard stalks removed For the potato cakes 4 large baking potatoes; 200g of good green olives, halved; 50g of chopped flat leaf parsley; 50ml of olive oil; good pinch of sea salt; Sunflower oil, for shallow frying For the salsa verde A handful of each: capers; fresh tarragon; fresh parsley; fresh basil; finely chopped shallots; 1 tsp of Dijon mustard; 2 anchovy fillets (smoked if possible); juice and zest of 1 lemon METHOD 1. Bake the potatoes in your oven on 170°c for around 40 minutes or until soft 2. Scoop out the flesh into a bowl and add the olives, parsley, olive oil and salt 3. Gently mix together, and form into palm-sized balls. Allow 2 per person 4. Leave the oven on, then finely chop all of the salsa verde ingredients and stir together. I prefer a chopped salsa verde - however, if you really can't be bothered, then blitz in a blender all of the ingredients apart from the chopped shallots which you can fold in afterwards (if you blitz the shallots, they have a habit of becoming rather strong and overpowering) 5. In a frying pan heat your sunflower oil until shimmering hot, add your potato cakes and fry for 2 minutes or until golden brown on each side, remove and place on an oven tray 6. Place seasoned fish flesh side down into the pan and fry for 2 minutes 7. Gently lift out of the pan and onto your oven tray skin side up, place in your oven along with your potato cakes, for around 6 minutes 8. Wipe out your frying pan and add a knob of butter and a splash of water, and if you have it, a flash of white wine, bring to a simmer and add your washed Swiss chard, place some kind of lid on the pan and leave for 1½ minutes 9. Remove the goods from the oven, check your potato cakes are hot with a skewer. Peel the skin from your cod. You'll know if your cod is cooked if the skin peels easily 10. Place potato cakes on plates, place your cod alongside, drape your wilted Swiss chard over both, and then spoon over a generous amount of salsa verde 11. A squeeze of lemon would be nice! As would the rest of that white wine (in a glass, not over the dish!)

ser ves 4 as a ma in course

WELL, DIDN’T WE ALL have a lovely time at the recent taster evening at Kestrel Kitchens in Great Plumstead, near Norwich? The Winbirri wine flowed, and chef at the Garden Kitchen Café at Hoveton Hall, Alex Firman, cooked up a storm in the showroom’s fully equipped kitchen. Before all that, however, Marketing and Sales Manager Edward Hill from Kestrel Kitchens, one of Norfolk’s top kitchen manufacturers, was the perfect host, and editor Sarah Hardy gave an introductory speech at this, our inaugural readers’ event, where we met friends of Feast Norfolk, old and new. It was lovely to see our kitchen gardener columnist, Ellen Mary, there, plus our award-winning travel writer, Mark Nicholls, and Steve Hearnden, who writes our regular wine column. Then it was time for Alex to do his thing in the fully working kitchen within the showroom. The foodies amongst us hung on his every word as he served up crab fritters, with chive soured cream; Parma ham and mozzarella cigar with pea pesto; plus goat’s ricotta, with Serrano ham, figs, hazelnuts, and rocket – and that was just for starters. For mains, he cooked braised cod, with potato, parsley and olive cakes, Swiss chard and salsa verde; and then rump steak salad, with artichoke, pickled shallot, radish, wild mushroom, gem and pea shoot salad. Finally, for dessert, he rustled up a white chocolate cream, with poached blackberries and shortbread crumb. Winbirri Vineyards, based in Surlingham, supplied the wines and Pippa Hyde and Georgina Wright from Tea, Bags and Shoes, in nearby Thorpe End, were on hand to serve up delicious cakes for dessert (their chocolate brownie was to die for!). All in all, we had a showroom of very satisfied customers who got to taste freshly cooked food and even take the latest copy of Feast Norfolk home with them for more inspiration! Mr Hill adds: ‘We were delighted to host our first Chef’s taster evening with Alex Firman. It was a great evening showcasing some of the best Norfolk has to offer from our bespoke handmade kitchens to award winning wine from Winbirri Vineyards. Seeing our showroom buzzing with new and past customers enjoying themselves was a real joy. We are looking forward to arranging the next one!’





News and G ossi p Everyone likes to entertain but all that cooking can get a bit much! Help is on hand with Ingredients for Cooks, a Suffolk-based company which produces restaurant standard dishes for you to serve up at home! There's everything from pretty little canapés to luxury fish cakes, Beef Wellingtons and large tartes citron. The company, and their parent company Elm Valley Food, is based at Bury St Edmunds and serves some of the finest restaurants and hotels in East Anglia as well as a growing number of home cooks. They deliver five days a week throughout the region, in temperature controlled vans (that can access those harder to reach areas). Let them do the hard work and simply cheat! Visit www.ingredientsforcooks.co.uk





There are lots of new foodie places opening around this time. Anyone would think the busy Christmas season was just around the corner, says

Emma Outten


Whisky Galore

The good folk down at St Georges Distiller y in Roudham have just unveiled their new look packagin g and branding. And in addition to the rebrand, they have launched the first two expressions to feat ure the new refreshed look: The Eng lish Whisky and The English Smokey (both 43 per cent ABV). Both bottles will be available from specialist retailers and St George's Distiller y. Visit www.englishwhisky.co.uk

The Good Hotel Guide 2017 has just announced this year’s César awards – the Oscars of the hotel industry – and congratulations are in order to The Blakeney Hotel for winning Family Hotel of the Year! The picturesque quayside hotel on the North Norfolk coast has views across the estuary to the seal colony at Blakeney Point. Visit www.goodhotelguide.com and www.blakeney-hotel.co.uk


Editor Sarah Hardy enjoyed checking out Rooftop Gardens, Norwich’s first rooftop bar and restaurant, on the top floor of the Union Building on Rose Lane. With a 360 degree panoramic view of famous city landmarks such as the cathedral, castle and football club, it’s surely going to be the place to be seen and the place to see! Visit www.rooftopgardens.co.uk


Redwood, brewed by Grain Brewery in Alburgh, has been named Overall Champion ‘Cask Beer’ at the Society of Independent Brewers' East Regional Independent Beer Competition. Wolf Brewery in Attleborough won Overall Champion in the Small Pack (bottle and can) competition with their Sirius Dog Star. Plus The Norfolk Brewhouse, based in Hindringham, won in two Small Pack categories: best Premium Lager and Pilsners for StubbleStag and best Standard Lager and Pilsners for DewHopper Norfolk lager. Visit www.grainbrewery.co.uk, www.wolfbrewery.com, and www.norfolkbrewhouse.co.uk


After 14 incredibly happy and successful years at The Lavender House, Brundall, Richard Hughes and his team are heading in a new direction and moving to a bigger house – the Assembly House in Norwich, in fact! A new brochure packed with exciting new courses has just been published, so get booking! The school is due to open in January 2017.

Visit www.assemblyhousenorwich.co.uk



Norfolk's newest ale, from the Fat Cat Brewery - Cat's Eyes - has been brewed to celebrate the centenary of Norwich, Swaffham and Diss opticians Dipple & Conway. It was launched by Jake Humphrey, who is patron of Break, the charity which will be getting a 10p donation for every pint of Cat's Eyes. Visit www.fatcatpub.co.uk



We very much enjoyed the VIP launch of Jive Kitchen & Bar in Exchange Street, Norwich, last month. The Mexican Street Food joint served tasters on the night along with some fizz and a cheeky cocktail or two! It will be dishing up burritos, tacos, tequila and takeout from Tuesday to Saturday. www.jivekitchen.co.uk

We’d like to thank Andrea Howes, a PE instructor at Edward Worlledge Community Primary School in Great Yarmouth, for letting us know about the two Let’s Get Cooking after school clubs she has been running for eight successful years. ‘The children learn so much from the club and have now started to branch out showcasing their new found skills during parents’ evenings.’ During the summer holidays, she also works for the Children's Food Trust – keep up the good work, Andrea! Visit www.childrensfoodtrust.org.uk

Our editor Sarah Hardy enjoyed a trip to the Aldeburgh Food and Drink Festival at Snape Maltings and saw plenty of celebs among the food and drink stands! Her favourite spot was Katie Derham, the TV presenter who did really well in last year's Strictly Come Dancing competition. Sarah also, of course, reports that there were plenty of great Norfolk producers there including the English Whisky Company, Marsh Pig and Norfolk Saffron.


Look out for Byfords’ Fancy Goods, a selection of good quality branded apron, T-towels and the like. The pieces all feature a great sketch of the popular Holt eaterie by Burnham Market based artist Andrew Ruffhead and are now on sale. Call into store for a closer look.



Adnams and Great Yarmouth College have just launched a new joint initiative called the Adnams Ambitions Programme which aims to provide some all-important, real-life work experience opportunities to GYC Catering and Hospitality students that are embarking on a career in the sector. Students will undertake regular blocks of work experience at Southwold, plus Adnams will also be involved in providing training at the college’s on-site training restaurant ‘Ambitions’. Follow the Adnams Ambitions Programme on the Ambitions (GYC) College Training Restaurant Facebook page.


Woodforde’s brewery has launched a new seasonal beer this month. Tinsel Toes has a seasonal roast malt fusion and will be available throughout November and December, in cask in pubs across the region as well as in 18 and 36 pint beer boxes from the brewery shop. Visit www.woodfordes.co.uk


The Local Flavours event, now in its fourth year, at the Norfolk Showground was a big success with more than 100 producers showcasing a great selection of food and drink, from chocolate to vodka and just about everything in-between. Designed for those with buying power for hotels and restaurants to see exactly what is available from our artisan producers, there were also great talks and demonstrations from leading figures such as Steve Thorpe from City College and top chef Daniel Smith.

The Ffolkes Arms in Hillington, near King’s Lynn, is set to close in January for a three month £750,000 re-fit. It will reopen as simply The Ffolkes and will offer 25 bedrooms, a 180-seater restaurant and a conference/ entertainment space for up to 150 people! Expect the new look venue to be light and airy, retaining its country pub feel but with lots of glass, light wood and an enticingly called adults’ games’ room - in other words, table tennis. Hurrah! Visit www.ffolkes.org.uk





Bookings are being taken for the nine new spa suites at The Pigs at Edgefield, near Holt. They are due to open next April and promise to be a most romantic venue, with your own steam and sauna facilities and a bath tub big enough for two - and 6ft beds. Beauty treatments are also going to be available in purpose-built beauty rooms. And we’ve heard the word hot tub mentioned, too. Who needs more? Visit www.thepigs.org.uk

Porkstock is Rising

Well done to the team behind foodie fundraiser Porkstock, which took place recently at White House Farm, Sprowston, for raising more than £10,000 for Norfolk charity, Nelson’s Journey. Around 2000 people enjoyed the free daytime family festival, and some of us here at Feast Norfolk enjoyed the adults-only knees up afterwards! www.porkstock.co.uk





A new direct ion for




New owners and a new head chef signal a whole new beginning for The Old Ram Coaching Inn at Tivetshall St Mary in South Norfolk THE OLD RAM Coaching Inn at Tivetshall St Mary, near Long Stratton, reopened under new ownership in May this year after acquisition by Victoria and Grahame MacDonald, who also own the multi award-winning Cellar House in Eaton, Norwich, and who have recently reopened The White Lodge in Attleborough. Dating back to the 17th Century, The Old Ram is situated on the historic Norwich to Ipswich Road (otherwise known as the A140), making it an ideal base from which to visit both Norfolk and Suffolk. It is perfectly placed for those who want to walk the historic Boudicca Way and explore the Waveney Valley. ‘I’m thrilled to be back in the hotel trade’, says Victoria. ‘It’s where I started my career 30 years ago at The Savoy. ‘We want to restore The Old Ram to its former glory, with an emphasis on sustainability and working with good local businesses. ‘All our linen is from Camplings in Great Yarmouth, which has a very active green policy, and suppliers we’re already working with include Tony Perkins and Buffy’s Brewery.’ A rolling programme of upgrades and improvements is planned for The Old Ram, and this has already started in the kitchen and restaurant. Since taking over, Victoria and Grahame have installed a new kitchen floor and grill range, a new coffee machine and new dinnerware. Perhaps the most significant change is the addition to the team of new chef and general manager, Matt Jackson. A Norfolk man, Matt’s passion for all things food is nothing short of contagious when you speak with him about his vocation. Working at another local restaurant before joining The Old Ram, Matt has an impressive CV that includes catering for celebrities including Damon Hill and Nigel Mansell, and being part of the Norwich City College team that catered at a function at Sandringham for HM The Queen’s Golden Jubilee. Matt is such a self-confessed foodie (‘I am quite obsessed with food’), he even spends

his spare time acquiring new food-related experiences. As well as attending major expos such as the BBC Good Food Show, Matt has spent days off shadowing Tony Perkins, a Norfolk butcher so that he could better understand how butchery works. ‘I wanted to get a better idea of where the meat comes from before it arrives in the kitchen,’ Matt explains. On other occasions, Matt has ‘foraged’ for mushrooms in Sheringham Park, and undertaken a Christmas Stollen-making course. When asked about his plans for The Old Ram restaurant, Matt says that he wants to focus on the fresh, local and seasonal - very good food, cooked to order (‘and no microwaves,’ he laughs). ‘The team is as important as the food,’ says Matt, name checking Lewis and Joe in the kitchen and Rachel and Jess as restaurant duty managers. As well as a new menu, recent developments of note include the introduction of a ‘Pie & Pudding’ menu at lunchtimes (‘nice and hearty - it’s about taking a classic dish and shaking it up,’ says Matt), as well as more dishes that represent a fusion between local food and local drink. Look out for desserts made with local ales and spirits. Buffy’s Brewery is practically on The Old Ram’s doorstep and it is included in The Old Ram’s already hugely popular steak and ale pie. ‘I want to get Norfolk people excited about Norfolk food again’, says Matt.

ton, is open for food seven days a The Old Ram Coach ing Inn, Ipswic h Road, Tivets hall St Mary, near Long Strat is bookab le now. Call 01379 676794 week, includi ng Sunda y lunch. Mat t will also be cookin g on Christ mas Day, which


The Old Ram

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Woo dfor de’s Bre w er y O pe n Wee ke nd ta ke s pl ac e on Dec em be r 3 an d 4, fr om 9a m to 5p m on th e Satu rd ay an d 10am to 4p m on th e Su nd ay. The ev en t is fr ee, an d th er e’s no ne ed to bo ok

IT’S BEEN QUITE A YEAR or so for leading brewery Woodforde’s, based in Woodbastwick in the heart of the Norfolk Broads. Not only was the brewery, which has been producing cask conditioned and bottled beers for 35 years, named Brewery of the Year by the Good Pub Guide 2015, it then appointed Master Brewer Belinda Jennings to lead its brewing team. The former Brewer and Quality Manager at Adnams in Suffolk had more than 18 years brewing experience by the time she joined Woodforde’s as Head Brewer. She manages the eight-strong brewing team and works with the brewery’s senior management team to manage beer production and develop its range. Multi-award-winning Woodforde’s, famous for its flagship beer ‘Wherry’, is the largest brewery in Norfolk and one of only a handful of brewers in the UK to have been awarded two Champion Beer of Britain accolades. Founded in 1981, Woodforde’s operates from its brewery and pub site in the village near Norwich, and produces in excess of 20,000 barrels per year. In March of this year, the brewery launched a completely new range of seasonal beers aimed at delighting both mainstream and craft beer enthusiasts alike. The range, which included a Red IPA and a Triple-hopped American IPA, has been available during 2016. Belinda said at the time of the launch: ‘Made with Norfolk ingredients and inspired by Norfolk, the new range is our way of marrying Norfolk heritage with the latest generation of beer styles and flavours.’ www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

The beers also included Woodforde’s trademark ingredients of Maris Otter barley from Norfolk and water from the brewery’s own wells in Woodbastwick. ‘New look’ pump clips attracted new audiences whilst providing more choice for existing Woodforde’s drinkers. The beers have been available in cask in pubs across the region as well as in 18 and 36 pint beer-boxes from the brewery shop. Just two weeks after this spring launch, new owners were announced for Woodforde’s. After 17 years at the helm, majority shareholders Mike Betts and Dennis Nudd sold Woodforde’s Ltd to a consortium of private investors, headed up by experts from the drinks industry with connections to Norfolk. The consortium has been led by James Hughes, formerly of drinks business Diageo, Nick Dolan from beer specialists Real Ale Ltd, and Rupert Fraser, who was born and raised in Norfolk, representing a small group of private investors. Both Hughes and Dolan have experience of working alongside Woodforde’s and Dolan has specific links to Norfolk having been involved in the launch of The Real Ale Shop near Wells-next-the-Sea in 2004. The trio have been working closely with the existing team, including Managing Director Rupert Farquharson, who has been leading the brewery for the past five years. By summer, Woodforde’s launched its Summer of Pubs, a new campaign aimed at celebrating some of the region’s best real ale pubs. And now that we are entering the festive period, the brewery is offering the opportunity for


beer lovers to look behind-the-scenes as it opens its brewery doors on December 3 and 4, for a weekend of beer tastings, brewery tours and Christmas gift inspiration from local food and drink producers. The free, annual Brewery Open Weekend provides the opportunity for visitors to sample some of Woodforde’s Christmas products including its festive brew Tinsel Toes and NOG Christmas puddings. In addition, the Christmas market stalls will showcase some of the region’s finest produce from cured meats to wines, chutneys to cheeses and a variety of different foods from an abundance of local producers, including Winbirri, Jubberwacky, Marsh Pig, The Norfolk Sloe Company and Yare Valley Oils. Guided brewery tours will be available throughout the weekend enabling visitors to learn about the art of crafting Woodforde’s fine selection of ales and giving insights into why the brewery was crowned The Good Pub Guide’s Brewery of the Year 2015. Local choirs will be carol singing to get everyone in the festive mood. Plus Woodforde’s brewery tap, The Fur and Feather, will be open as usual offering hearty meals as well as a delicious hog roast so visitors can rest their weary feet after all that shopping. Rupert Farquharson says: ‘Last year more than 2000 people visited our Open Weekend and we anticipate even greater numbers this year. The event is regarded as a ‘one stop shop’ for Christmas supplies showcasing some of the finest products that Norfolk has to offer, be it meats, cheeses, beer, wines or gifts.’

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North Norfolk has a great addition to its dining scene as The Hero in Burnham Overy Staithe has new owners. Sarah Hardy and friends pay a visit


www.theheroburnhamover y.co.uk



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HARRY FARROW and Rowan Glennie already run the very popular Anchor at Morston where a relaxed atmosphere and great food attract the crowds. Earlier this summer the pair, friends since school, took over The Hero along the coast in pretty Burnham Overy Staithe and have set about putting their own stamp on it. So now you can expect a similar contemporary vibe, great seasonal dishes and a warm welcome. And, of course, you’re in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, with the fresh water marshes just yards from the pub’s front door. But more of that great setting later. Since reopening in July, it’s become a firm favourite with both locals and holiday makers so I was keen to find out exactly what was on offer. As a way to beat those ‘change of season’ blues, those longer nights approaching and chillier temperatures, a group of us hired a very nice cottage in the village for a three night break last month. The added bonus was that it was right opposite the pub! So, yes, I got to know it well. The pub, a freehouse, has been extended and refitted and there’s now a bar area as well as a separate dining room, although the menu, created by Harry and head chef Max Emmerson, is the same throughout. Look out for




stripped floorboards, modern artwork and heritage paint colours on the walls. Homage is paid to the great man after whom the pub is named: Lord Nelson, one of the county’s most famous sons. One of his most famous sayings, ‘I am a Norfolk man and glory in being so,’ is quoted on a wall and the pub’s sign is another tribute to the naval hero - who was born in nearby Burnham Thorpe. Our party opted for the bar area, where you’re allowed dogs, which operates on a first come, first served basis - you can reserve a table in the dining room. The large woodburner catches the eye, as does a gin menu chalked up on the wall. And yes, you’re thinking what I thought, it would be rude not to so I duly ordered one of my favourites: a Norfolk Gin with a Fever Tree tonic which didn’t last too long. Others went for the real ales - Grain Brewery is available, as is Woodfordes. The menu is great fun, offering plenty of choice for whatever mood you’re in. It brims over with local, seasonal offerings and the plan is to change it every six to eight weeks to keep it fresh. Look out for local suppliers such as Simon Letzer and his lobsters and crab, plus his well known smoked salmon! There are traditional nibbles like olives and artisan breads, plus cicchetti - small Italian inspired dishes (tapas, in other words) such as breaded mozzarella with a tomato and basil sauce. Add in starters including a goats’ cheese and beetroot risotto and a black pudding and pork belly Scotch egg, plus mains like rib eye steak with plenty of trimmings and venison loin, and it is extensive - with options for children, too. There are also daily specials, marked up again on that chalk board.


Our party worked its way through a hefty part of the menu, my sauteed salt and pepper squid, with a Siracha sauce, was most pleasing, and the squid retained a decent amount of bite. The Asian pork skewers and their peanut sauce were declared another hit. As the season had just begun, I went for a North Norfolk classic, moules mariniere, as my main course which came with a lovely creamy sauce - plus a decent portion of fries to dip in it. Others went for that great pub favourite, fish and chips, with minted mushy peas or curry sauce. Between the party, both were sampled, with the curry sauce winning for its hint of spice! The pulled Hickory chicken burger, in a sourdough bun, was also much enjoyed, with the Manchego melting beautifully. Desserts are plentiful, with the Taste of Chocolate at £8.50 catching the eye, with a little bit of just about every chocolate pudding known to man on offer, from a mousse to a terrine. There’s also a pineapple cheesecake that looked divine, and an apple and pear toffee crumble which was delicious, especially with its accompanying brandy custard! If you like a clue about prices cicchettis are about £3 to £4, starters are from £6.50 to £8.50 and mains are from £13 to about £19.50. Desserts are around £6, with the cheeseboard coming in at £9. Outside are two separate seating areas where you can enjoy a pint in the fresh air, and there’s also a big car park so you shouldn’t struggle to find a slot. And should you be tackling the Norfolk Coast Path, this is a great option for a pit stop as you can walk from say Holkham to Burnham Deepdale, calling in at The Hero for lunch. Perfect. The CoastHopper bus stops right outside, as well. The quay is simply picture postcard pretty, with wonderful options for watching wildlife, especially birds, and it is also a popular sailing spot, too. And as The Hero now boasts three bedrooms, including a suite with stunning views over the staithe, you can stay awhile and soak it all in.

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IT’S ALWAYS GOOD, when planning dinner out, to have plenty of choice on your doorstep. Norwich’s Golden Triangle has so many great places that I always find it tricky to make a dining decision. I was after somewhere - dare I say it - a bit hip to go for dinner with an old friend, and Woolf & Social seemed to fit the bill rather nicely. And, as I’d heard good things about the place, it was no surprise that they were fully booked until 9pm when I called.


Norw ich’s Golde n Trian gle has a new eater ie which Rach ael Youn g finds both fashi onab le and fun Norfolk raised chef Francis Woolf and his business partner Felix Rehberg wanted to create somewhere sociable, friendly and accessible to everyone, a place you would keep going back to. Francis spent nine years working at various London restaurants to finance his drama school placement and soon realised his true passion was food. Working under Tim Anderson (2011 MasterChef winner) and James Knox Boothman gave him the skills needed for the kitchen and Blanch and Shock helped him hone his creative side. It wasn’t long before he was back in Norwich to launch the pop up ‘Woolf & Bird’ which specialised in fried chicken and won a Channel 4 Sunday Brunch award, before opening Woolf & Social last December. Accompanied by Glenn Curtis in the tiny kitchen, they appear to be a great team. Rather handily, the Fat Cat Pub is just opposite so we met for predinner drinks (or should I say ale) and then headed over the road to the restaurant. The dining space is small and has a simple, paredback style with a rather cool bar made of off-cut bits of wood. We sat and had a G&T (Norfolk Gin, of course) and perused the menu while we waited for our table. I couldn’t help but notice there

were a lot of couples here and this is definitely somewhere you can bring a date; you might even score Brownie points for knowing somewhere this good a bit off the beaten track. Dishes consist of sharing plates, some small, some large, hinting back to the concept of sociable eating. Prices are really reasonable, the most expensive being £11, so you can choose whether to blow the budget or not. My fellow diner has a nut allergy so it made a couple of things off limits like the smoked pigeon and the croquettes with salsa verde (although I’m told these are now nut free). I could have eaten my way through the entire menu, including the mussels in Fat Cat cider, but as my friend doesn’t do mussels, I’m saving them for a return visit. We decided on heritage tomatoes with goats’ cheese and insects (ants and flying termites, to be precise). Described as having a ‘nutty’ taste, this somewhat perturbed my friend, but we both agreed they added to the flavour, not just the quirkiness of the dish (and he was fine). The chicken strips with mayo (flavoured with Sriracha chilli sauce) were delicious. The crispy coating and succulent, steaming chicken were polished off very quickly and we both agreed it was the best we’d had. The pork belly with tomato, fennel and black


pudding was another winning dish for both of us. The pork wasn’t fatty like it sometimes can be, and the black pudding added a great depth of flavour. The vegetables served with it were really good too: a mix of pickled, confit and fresh, I thought they had been very well treated indeed. Truffled celeriac and charred leek remoulade added a crisp bite, and the brill with salsify, chard and sorrel was delicate and flavoursome. We would have had the thrice cooked chips as well (although in hindsight we really didn’t need them) but an unusually high demand for these throughout the day meant the kitchen was clean out, so we opted for bread and butter instead (supplied by the Pye Baker just down the road). Even that didn’t disappoint: with its salty crust and meltingly soft butter, it was perfect. Unsurprisingly after all that we were too full for pudding although the chocolate cake and Norfolk cheese board our fellow diners had looked as good as the mains. With such relaxed and unpretentious service from friendly and helpful front of house staff, Woolf & Social is definitely achieving its aim of a social space with great food made for sharing. I’m told the Sunday Brunch is great, too. I can see a lazy Sunday trip to sample the Norfolk Dapple toastie coming soon.


r o f g n i g n Si s S u p p e r hi W

Where do you like to eat and drink when you're in the area? Norfolk is very lucky to have such an abundance of wonderful vegetables, meat, seafood and even wine (My brother and step father have an award-winning vineyard called Humbleyard in Mulbarton, near Norwich) and so there’s a great choice when I'm back. If I want the best, then it's Morston Hall. It's quite brilliant. After a long walk up at the coast I love a pint and some oysters at the White Horse, Brancaster, and nearer to home is The Wildebeest in Stoke Holy Cross. I went to a good local pub called the Honingham Buck the other day and I was very impressed.

No rfo lk ten or Hu mp hre y Bern ey, par t of the thr eestr ong gro up B lak e, tell s us abo ut his lov e of win e and his sig nat ure sal mo n dish BLAKE are appearing at the Marina Theatre, Lowestoft on November 29. Visit www.marinatheatre.co.uk


Do you eat and drink before or after a show? I don't like to sing on a full stomach so we generally have a light snack before a show and then miss dinner as we are often travelling! If we are not travelling we will often go out and find some food. Do you find much time to cook at home? Yes. I really enjoy cooking and take it in turns with my wife, and I love cooking for other people. We have just renovated a flat which has a fantastic kitchen so it's a lovely place to spend time. Do you have a signature dish? It is probably salmon cooked 'en papillote' with white wine, dill, lemon and butter, served with grilled lemon and garlic courgettes, saffron potatoes, green beans and fresh mayonnaise on the side.

Humphrey Berney F A M O U S





I really need to improve on many things but especially sauces. What's your favourite junk food or comfort food? I love apple, cheese and chutney! I'm also a sucker for freshly baked, toasted granary bread with unsalted butter and a good raspberry jam. I am a grazer so you might find me eating most things at any given time! Good dark chocolate is a must in my kitchen cupboard. Wine or beer? Wine. I love beer but wine is an exciting world with so much to learn and discover (there are craft beer fans now shouting at the page!) plus as I mentioned there is a Norfolk vineyard in the family. I love the Humbleyard Bacchus. Come and try it at Paddocks Farm Shop, Mulbarton! www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

Do you have a favourite TV chef? I think James Martin is great to watch and creates simple recipes using fresh produce. He also loves cars like me! I must mention Galton Blackiston as he is responsible for Morston Hall and always raves about Norfolk which I like.

Eating in or eating out? I love eating out as it feels special but I must say it is far too rare that I am really impressed. It should not be that hard to eat beautifully cooked meat/ fish, especially the prices we all pay. So, I shall go with eating in with family and friends.

What's been your best meal out - and where was it? I recently went to the Hotel Endsleigh in Devon for lunch. It has a stunning setting, great food and wine and is a very special place and the lunches are simple and beautiful. If you go, sit on the terrace. If it’s cold ask for a heater and blanket! There's something very special being outside: all cosy, and eating wonderful food as the rain comes down.

What would be your Last Supper and where? My Last Supper would be with my wife, daughter and dog Claude at the Hotel Peponi, Shela, Kenya. It's a magical, small, Colonial style hotel, looking out over the water. Starter tuna tartare; main - whole fish of the day with a mix of Ottolenghi salads; pudding - treacle tart with Rodda’s clotted cream. This isn’t a pudding that fits but I love it!


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tures Th is mo nth we continue our ser ies of fea by rw ich on the Hotel Sc hoo l at City Co llege No t ten me ets focusi ng on De but Re staura nt. Em ma Ou orge restaurant ma nager an d lecturer Al an Ge

IF YOU ASK ALAN GEORGE, lecturer and manager of Debut Restaurant at City College Norwich, what makes a good front of house team, he will start his answer with just two words: ‘Humility’ and ‘humanity.’ Oh, and something else is very important, too: ‘If you like meeting people - that’s your core ingredient.’ Alan has been the manager of the fine dining restaurant run by students and staff of the internationally-renowned Hotel School for more than five years. He’s passionate about the food service side of the industry and is now a level three course leader at the college. Debut Restaurant operates as a commercial concern and opens for a two or three-course lunch, from Monday to Friday; and dinner – consisting of a tasting menu on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. It’s also available for private events and special occasions. Alan comments: ‘It provides a unique learning environment for all the students.’ As for the customers, locals and business people alike can experience first-hand the excellent standards set by the courses, with Alan saying: ‘I’m incredibly proud of the food we serve here. If we have salmon on the menu the students see the whole thing, head and all, and it’s wonderful how it helps them embed that knowledge.’ On his course, students are invited to enjoy a Meal Experience, as if guests in the private dining room, and then give feedback. ‘It’s awakening their culinary experience.’ Students on both the catering and hospitality courses are beginning to interact with each other more and more, as Alan believes: ‘I have a mantra in the restaurant: ‘I strongly believe that the best chefs in the world are the ones who understand how front of house operates.’


‘I was a student here myself, in the late 70s, with ambitions of being a chef, but within two years of working as a commis chef I kept seeing that life through those doors into the dining room, and was drawn to that, so I swapped over to front of house.’ He has spent more than 30 years in the industry, 25 of those years in London, including as a hospitality manager with the University of London. ‘Unfortunately I had a really bad car accident and I was off work for over a year and I had to rethink what I was doing.’ He decided to go into teaching (including within HM Prison service) before returning to the county where he’s from. ‘I’m really happy to be back here – I haven’t walked back into a college that was exactly the same as it was – it’s always evolving.’ But Alan is on a mission: ‘My biggest challenge is for people to see front of house as a career option.’ As a leader of the level three supervisor course, Alan is building working relationships with local employers, and is noticing a change in attitude. He cites the success of a former student called Ashley, who is based at Brasted’s. Another student, Josh, is starting his career at Morston Hall. This time of year, Alan and his students are gearing up to the busy Christmas period when they go can from catering from an average of 40 or 50 a day for lunch, to 100 a day. ‘Last year was phenomenal,’ he says. And once again the students will be baking festive goodies for the Hotel School’s popular Christmas shop. The festive season ‘is a big part of the industry,’ says Alan. ‘For some guests this will be the one time they go out to eat a year.’ He has this advice for students considering a career front of house: ‘As long as you can smile and are genuinely interested in learning that’s a good starting point.’

Head of Hote l Schoo l Steve Thorpe, has this update: "WE RECENTLY took part in Lloyd Addison’s Moveable Feast, alongside The Great Hospital team, supporting Norwich’s charitable event and raising funds for Parkinsons UK. I’m proud that we give young people the opportunity to engage in the community. Last month saw the college’s graduation ceremony at Norwich Cathedral - the pinnacle of our calendar. Some students will have been with us for five or six years before gaining a degree with honours. We’ve had the half term break and by now the restaurant is in full swing and the kitchen is abuzz from Monday to Saturday, as the junior chefs have started the Saturday course. In the first week of November, students will be taking GCSE exams, and in the second week we’ll be marking 125 years of the college, with a celebratory dinner. Five or six alumni chefs will come up with a menu to reflect how Norfolk food has developed over the last 30 years, plus two restaurateurs will return to look after front of house. Then, during the Christmas period, the Hotel School and Debut Restaurant will really have a chance to shine."



Yo u ca n fo llow P lan Eat Save on Faceb oo k


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YouTuber and Chef, Ian Haste, is the ambassado r of Plan Eat Save, a new Norfolk County Coun cil campaign aime d at reducing food waste. Emm a Out ten meets him IF ALL FOOD ‘waste’ dishes tasted as good as when Ian Haste serves them up, then I’m pretty sure you’d never throw anything away again. The Norfolk YouTuber and chef was outside The Forum recently, making DIY breakfast bars and berry bliss smoothies, to demonstrate why food needn’t been consigned to the bin. And by lunchtime he was back cooking up tandoori chicken, with mint raita and flatbread. Ian is the ambassador of Plan Eat Save, a new Norfolk County Council initiative which supports Love Food Hate Waste, and he is on a mission to reduce food waste with tips and recipes. Food waste is an important issue in Norfolk with 63,000 tonnes of food wasted every year, the equivalent of 140 Boeing 747 aeroplanes; while the UK’s average family with children wastes around £700 a year buying and then throwing away good food and drink. Norfolk families have been taking up the Plan Eat Save challenge to save £60 a month simply by following advice to cut down on their food waste. As a YouTuber, Ian is the perfect choice as ambassador for Plan Eat Save as its aim is to appeal to a younger generation. He started a YouTube channel in 2014 on the basis that he wanted to make easy-to-follow, healthy and nutritious recipes, and firmly believes in the 80/20 rule (eating a healthy balance of nutritious foods 80 per cent of the time, coupled with some daily exercise, and then eating more indulgently the other 20 per cent). Sitting outside the Forum, Ian explains why he’s hugely passionate


about cutting down on food waste: ‘I can remember my nan and grandad living off a tiny allotment and that would be the way they ate.’ When it comes to food waste, he comments: ‘The 20-30 year olds of today are probably the worst. Whereas when you think of your nan or grandad – did they throw anything out?’ Ian is married to Nicola (another YouTuber, as she is one half of makeup artist duo, Pixiwoo) and together they have a four-year-old son and three-year-old daughter. Food Waste ‘frustrates the hell out of me,’ says Ian, who is involved with the charity Mary’s Meals, which aims to provide chronically hungry children with one school meal every day in places such as Africa, Asia, Latin America and the Caribbean. ‘There’s got to be some balance in this world.’ Whether it’s whipping up a meal with some leftover chicken or reviving a sad looking lettuce, there will be a Plan Eat Save recipe or tip you can use to help reduce food waste. ‘If you’ve gone and done a big food shop, and you’ve opened something one night and don’t fancy it the next night, the fridge and the freezer are your closest friends.’ Ian hales from East Harling originally, and now lives in Hethersett. ‘Going back in a time machine to exactly 20 years ago, I was head chef at The White Lodge in Attleborough.’ His aim back then, as it is now, was ‘to cook stuff that was realistic and healthy, and - as much as possible - locally sourced. I was passionate about cooking.’


The hours were long, of course, and he recalls: ‘No one can describe the stress levels of a chef when you have a busy restaurant at Christmas!’ However, utilising his IT qualifications from City College Norwich, he ended up working for an American software company, and commuting backwards and forwards, for the best part of a decade. He returned to the foodie fold a few years ago, when he and Nicola decided to start a family. ‘I was looking at YouTube and for a gap in the market and this was around the time of clean eating and the Paleo Diet, but there was nothing on the food networks that was particularly healthy. ‘About four years ago I decided to set up a channel doing exactly what I did 20 years ago, but really making it simple: student-friendly; mum and dadfriendly. Anyone can cook healthily.’ Alongside setting up online presence Haste’s Kitchen, Ian has worked on Jamie Oliver’s FoodTube, and Asda’s Mum's Eye View. He has 55,000 subscribers on YouTube. ‘I like to think I can get anyone to cook,’ he says. ‘My little food family includes students who are experiencing their first time of eating away from home. They are all lovely – I’ve only had one bad comment!’ One of his dreams is to open a deli, and he definitely has a book in him, which he hopes to bring out next year. In the meantime there’s Christmas to cater for, which will be the usual big family affair. Ian says: ‘We get 20 around the table, and there’s a vegetarian, a pescetarian and meat eaters.’



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Our artisan baker Steve Winter is developing a range of homemade butters, jams and the like to go with all that gorgeous bread "Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfy ing of all foods and good bread with fresh but ter, the greate st of feasts" - James Bear d URCE BREAD SO r events

le fo is availab with t the year u o h g throu ood w portable our large r for te ca n ca and als fired oven iv st d food fe events an

IN OUR KITCHEN at Upper St Giles in Norwich we are developing a range of butters, pickles, jams and ferments worthy enough to grace our daily bread. We thought that this would be a natural add-on - using Norfolk's abundance of locally grown fruit and vegetables to go alongside the ancient art of bread making. It is great to see such a huge resurgence in chefs preserving and fermenting foods, which, just like bread making, are noble traditions coming back into the spotlight as people realise the joy of real food. We were inspired by a trip to France last year, when we stayed with Jonas’ 80-year-old grandma in the rural French hills and found out how super cool she really is! She showed us cupboards full of conserves, pickles, ferments, foie gras and rillettes, just as if everybody's cupboards were the same!

Of course, all of these methods originally had a serious purpose as people needed to preserve food before they could simply open their fridge door and tuck in. And it is worth remembering that these methods also give flavour and allow us to enjoy seasonal food all year round. Incidentally, if you can get your hands on some fresh cream from a local dairy, have a go at churning your own butter. It is very easy and always tastes amazing. If not, Nortons’ Dairy at Frettenham produces it in very small batches on their farm so you might be lucky enough to get your hands on some. If you read last month’s Feast Norfolk magazine, you will know we entered the Tiptree World Bread Awards 2016. Unfortunately, we didn't win any categories this year but still did quite well picking up two Gold and three Silver Awards in various categories and,well, there's always next year!

BREAD SOURCE, Red Lion Street, Aylsham and Upper St Giles, Norwich, visit www.bread-source.com

¡an H ast e -



BERRY BLISS BREAKFAST SMOOTHIE INGREDIENTS 2 apples or 100ml of apple juice; 1 handful of blueberries; 1 handful of raspberries; 200g of natural yogurt; 1 handful of ice cubes METHOD Juice the apples, or use leftover apple juice, and then put the juice and the remainder of the ingredients into the blender. Blend and enjoy!

DIY BREAKFAST BARS INGREDIENTS 1 dessert apple; 100g of butter; 200g of honey; 275g of no added sugar muesli; 25g of pumpkin seeds; 2tsp of cinnamon

You can try using other breakfast cereals in this recipe such as bran flakes or porrid ge oats. You can also use differe nt fruits includ ing dried apricots or dates www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

METHOD Preheat the oven to 160°C/140°C fan/gas mark 3. Using a small sharp knife cut the apple into quarters; carefully remove the core and pips then cut into slices approximately 3mm thick. Lay flat on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cook for 30 minutes, turning halfway through until the apples are golden but still soft. Leave to cool then chop into small pieces. Grease and line a 23cm square cake tin with baking parchment. Gently melt the butter and honey in a large saucepan. Remove from the heat then add the dry ingredients and apple into the saucepan. Mix well until all the ingredients are coated with the honey mixture. Place the mixture into the tin and use the back of a spoon to press the mixture down evenly. Bake for 35 minutes until golden and leave to cool before cutting into 20 bars. If possible leave the breakfast bars in the tin for at least 2 hours and this will allow them to set completely. They may crumble more easily if eaten straight away


The great thing about smoothies is that you can get creative and use any fruit that’s very ripe and slightly past its best to give it a new lease of life. Try out different combinations for a tasty, healthy breakfast treat! Frozen berries are another quick and convenient way to make smoothies, especially in the morning when you don’t have time to peel and chop fruit. Freeze fruit yourself by peeling and chopping seasonal fruit and freeze portions in food bags ready to add to smoothies in the future

H ill farm Oil s -





Hillfarm Oils


in Suffolk is the UK’s original producer of cold pressed rapeseed oil. Emma Outten heads to Heveningham to take a look around VISIT

WHEN FARMER SAM FAIRS heard of a friend who had been prescribed rapeseed oil tablets to reduce his cholesterol, he and wife Clare began to explore the idea of turning the rapeseed they grew on their Suffolk farm into a premium culinary oil. In 2004 they became the first farm in the UK to grow, press and bottle their own cold pressed rapeseed oil, and the end product is Hillfarm Oils, a 100 per cent British product which is low in saturated fat; high in essential fatty acids – Omega 3, 6 and 9; and rich in Vitamin E. The Fairs family have farmed at Heveningham, near Halesworth, since 1967, and although rapeseed has always been an important crop, the seed had gone straight from the farm to processing for animal feed or low grade oils. But all that has changed since they started exploring its potential as a healthy oil. Standing in front of the pressing barn, Hillfarm business manager Lawrence Frohn says: ‘When Sam started back in 2004 there was


one press.’ Such is the demand these days, however - there are now 16 such presses. ‘The presses run 24/7 – they do not stop,’ adds Lawrence. This level of production means they are able to press 1512 litres per day (over a year this means they could produce as much as 550,000 litres – the equivalent of 1.1 million bottles of oil). The production line has had to keep up with demand, too. When the family launched at the Suffolk Show 12 years ago every dark green bottle was hand-filled and sealed, but nowadays a production manager and a team of full and part time staff work in the barn. There are three generations involved in the family business: there’s Sam’s father Alan, who is still deeply involved with the farming; and then there’s Clare, a farmer’s daughter from the Cambridgeshire Fens, who has previously worked for a London catering company, organising and cooking for large events. She now develops Hillfarm recipes: thanks to the oil’s golden colour and nutty

Saving time and money for farmers across East Anglia

flavour, it’s perfect for dressings, sauces and marinades; and with a high burn point of 220 degrees C, it’s ideal for frying and roasting. Leading chefs such as Mark Hix, Raymond Blanc, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, James Martin, Jamie Oliver and Galton Blackiston are all advocates of rapeseed oil in cooking. Finally, making up the family firm are children Lottie and Harry, who help to promote the oil at shows and food festivals. For his own part, Lawrence is fascinated by the versatility of cold pressed rapeseed oil – and not just in the kitchen. When he arrived, mayonnaise had already been added to the product range. He said: ‘I joined the business and wanted to build up the product range so I made a list of all the things that vegetable oil is used in - the list goes on and on.’ As well as Hillfarm Mayonnaise and Hillfarm Garlic Mayonnaise, Hillfarm has collaborated with Aspall Cyder Vinegar on a Dress and Dip Set, and there’s even a Hillfarm Hand Wash and Hand Lotion Set.

01603 881 881 @AngliaFarmers


"We have the pu bl ic buying Hillfarm Oils off th e supermarket shelf, and so all of a su people want to know dden who is behind Hillfarm"

And the latest product range is Hillfarm Honey, launched in November last year with the help of local beekeepers. And since May, Hillfarm has its own bee farm with 10 hives, and the bees are thriving alongside the

rapeseed and borage crops. Lawrence says: ‘Our Hillfarm bees have been very active and have produced loads of honey. Their hives are now all at Hillfarm and they are now building up their own stock of honey to see them through the winter.’ We can rest assured that there are more innovative Hillfarm products planned for the future, as Lawrence says: ‘The ethos is to lead and not follow. I don’t want to do anything that anyone else is doing.’ Initially, Hillfarm Oils were simply stocked in local farm shops but now they are sold


nationally in Waitrose, Tesco, and Sainsbury’s, plus the East of England Co-op. Hillfarm sponsored the Family Meadow at the recent Aldeburgh Food & Drink Festival, and this month you find the team dividing themselves between the Bury St Edmunds Christmas Fair from November 24 to 27 and also the Holt Hall Christmas Fair on November 26 and 27. The family has become something of a marketing tool, with Clare blogging on the website about life as a farmer’s wife and so forth. Lawrence says: ‘We have the public buying Hillfarm Oils off the supermarket shelf, and so all of a sudden people want to know who is behind Hillfarm.’


Kat e Barmby -




Norfolk baker Kate Bar mby revea ls a few secre ts about her GBBO expe rienc e How did you start baking? My amazing mum, who is a fantastic home baker, taught me to bake whilst I was still in my high chair and I have continued to develop my own skills. My grandmother was also an enthusiastic cook but everything she baked had to include either a tin of soup or cornflakes. She helped kindle my love of baking. Who could fail to smile at a melting moment biscuit, rolled in crushed cornflakes and topped with a bright red glacé cherry? Are you self-taught? I am a true amateur and home cook. I began to cook independently from when I could read a recipe on my own at about the age of six. The first thing I can remember baking on my own was Grantham Gingerbread biscuits out of the Dairy Cookbook. As an adult I have taught myself sugar craft and cake art.

What are your plans for Christmas - do you cook on Christmas Day and is there a family tradition to what you eat? The smell and taste of baking throughout my life is what links my memories and this is most evident at Christmas. As a child we always had a festive table groaning with traditional fare. Now I have a huge kitchen table of my own around which we all celebrate Christmas as a family. Everyone www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

What were the best part and the worst parts of appearing on GBBO? Best - I rarely do anything that’s for me and having the opportunity to spend uninterrupted time baking and developing my skills was really exciting. It felt terribly self-indulgent but my friend Rachel reminded me that enjoying yourself is an easy method to give enjoyment to others, and sharing in my delight at being part of Bake Off brought happiness to those close to me. Worst - Baking is one of the ways I show people that I love and care for them. All my bakes were developed with particular people in mind using local ingredients grown or made by friends and family. Although I have great respect for the judges’ comments and decisions, the hardest part of Bake Off is opening yourself up to having something so personal to you criticised. Who did you bond with in particular on the show? As a group of 12 very different individuals with a shared passion for baking we immediately became friends. The baker I



Which TV chef do you admire? As a child, the main book I taught myself to cook from was Delia Smith’s Complete Cookery Course. I have an appreciation for haute cuisine but I think it can be off putting when you’re just starting out and Delia really helped me to learn the basics on which I could build. My own children are now using her books.

shares the cooking on Christmas day. My mum likes to make the starters, my husband is in charge of the braised red cabbage and has to lift our enormous Norfolk turkey in and out of the oven and I make my Christmas pudding to my own secret recipe. My daughters, Lucy and Rebecca, assume responsibility for the place settings and table decorations. The only tradition we can’t agree on is Yorkshire puddings, my husband’s family always had them on Christmas day and we didn’t.

Kat e Barmby -



had the most in common with was Tom. We both have a love of the natural world and enjoy foraging for free food. My husband and I have taken our girls to visit him and I think he must be the only person they would willingly eat spicy butternut squash and walnut soup for! Do you have a signature dish? My celebration fruitcake is what I always make for special birthdays, weddings and Christmas. It tastes delicious and is a recipe that has developed over the years.


How are the Brownies - do you bake a lot with them? I run 1st Brooke Brownies. They are a fantastic group of girls who I have the privilege of sharing all my enthusiasms with, including baking. I had to keep it secret from them that I was a contestant on the Bake Off and they were so excited when they found out. I have recreated my Gingerbread Showstopper with them and they all made themselves out of gingerbread and added themselves to the structure. Tell us about your job Firstly, and above all else, I am a mother, and nothing could bring me more pleasure than this. I am also a staff nurse. I qualified in 2001. I worked full time until I had my daughters in 2005 and 2006. I had a break from my career until Lucy and Rebecca started school and having completed the Return to Nursing course I now work part time as a staff nurse on an acute respiratory ward. When I approached my ward sister Karen about applying for Bake Off I thought she might laugh at my ‘Pie in the Sky’ idea but she did everything she could to make my crazy plans possible.

ec t "I have an en or mo us re sp y fo r bo th Mar y an d P au l. M sh elv es at ho me ar e stacked ok s w ith a huge nu mb er of bo w rit te n by bo th of th em"


How are you coping with your new found fame? I am enjoying engaging with fans of the show and fellow baking enthusiasts. It truly is touching how supportive and lovely complete strangers have been. What did your family make of you being on TV? My husband Dave has been so supportive; he has done a huge amount of washing up whilst I was practising my baking! I sought to prove to my children that no matter what the odds are, if you really want to do something it’s worth having a go, and that’s what my Bake Off experience has done. What are the famous four really like? Mel, Sue, Paul and Mary I have an enormous respect for both Mary and Paul. My shelves at home are stacked with a huge number of books written by both of them. They were both true professionals and it was a privilege to have the opportunity to learn from them. Trying to bake in the tent with Mel and Sue was a bit like trying to bake at home with my children in the kitchen. Although they can be distracting and can lead you astray a bit, they do ultimately remind you that being part of Bake Off is essentially a joyful experience and they help to dissipate some of the unavoidable tension that baking against the clock can cause. What’s next? Being in the tent is a bit like your wedding day. You spend so long looking forward to it and when the actual event arrives you want to savour every glorious moment of it. Baking was already a huge part of who I am but I am now in love with it even more than I ever believed possible. I bake at any time of day, and I will do so after Bake Off. I will continue to bake to feed my family as above all else I am a mum and because it makes me happy, but what being part of Bake Off has made me realise is how much I want to inspire other people to have a go at baking whether it’s cooking Damper soda bread on a stick over a campfire outside or beautiful sugar work, so I will be pursuing every opportunity to do this with a wider audience wherever possible.

K A T E ' S




ser ves 12

PEAR & FRANGIPANE PASTRIES INGREDIENTS Dough 625g of strong white bread flour plus extra for dusting; 1tsp of salt; 75g of chilled unsalted butter; 10g of Doves Farm fast action yeast; 75g of caster sugar; 200g of cold milk; 3 large freerange eggs; 450g of chilled unsalted butter

Walnut frangipane 115g of walnuts; 115g of caster sugar; 115g of icing sugar; 2 large free-range egg yolks; 3-4 English pears; juice of a lemon; 100g walnuts; local honey METHOD Dough 1. Put the flour and the salt into the bowl of a stand mixer that has been fitted with a dough hook. Use your hand to distribute the salt through the flour. Add the butter that has been cut into cubes and rub into the flour 2. Once incorporated add the yeast and caster sugar. Again distribute these through the flour, using your hand then place the bowl on the stand mixer 3. Add the eggs to a jug containing the milk. Mix briefly with a fork 4. With the mixer running slowly, gradually add the milk and eggs mix and continue mixing until you have a soft dough, about 6 minutes. You will need to use a flexible plastic bowl scraper to scrape this soft mix down from the sides of the mixer bowl a couple of times during this process. The dough will not come together as a smooth ball in the mixer, you will need to tip it onto a floured surface and knead briefly until it is smooth. I use a mixer and try to avoid handling the dough too much as I don’t want to melt the butter with the warmth of my hands 5. Put the smooth dough in a large, tall plastic box (I use a 5litre one that is approx 18cm square and 18cm tall) and leave at room temperature for half an hour Walnut frangipane 6. Grind the walnuts in a food processor fitted with a chopping blade until they are really fine. Then add the caster sugar and the icing sugar and continue to process this mix until all the ingredients are evenly distributed 7. Add the eggs

and process again until a soft dough is formed. Tip the dough out onto the work surface and briefly knead it until it forms a smooth ball. Wrap the ball of walnut frangipane in clingfilm and put to one side until required Toppings 8. Peel and core the pears and cut them into wedges. Toss them into a bowl with the juice of a lemon to stop them discolouring Dough 9. Roll the dough into a square approx 50cm x 50cm. Arrange slices of chilled butter into a square between two sheets of baking parchment. Bash and roll the butter into a square approximately 30 x 30cm. Peel off the top sheet of baking parchment and invert the butter onto the square of dough at a 45 degree angle to the corners so it forms a smaller diamond inside the square 10. Fold the corners of the dough over the butter to completely enclose it, try not to trap any air between the dough and the butter as you do this. Seal all the joins by pushing and pinching gently, pressing out any air as you go 11. Press the dough with your rolling pin then roll the dough backwards and forwards along its length to make a rectangle. Do not push hard, let the weight of the rolling pin do the work otherwise you may crack or tear the dough and expose the butter. Regularly lift the dough and free it from the surface as you are rolling it 12. Once you have a rectangle about 60cm long fold a short end into the centre and the other end right over that (you are folding the rectangle into three). Wrap the dough in clingfilm and leave to rest


in the fridge 13. Roll and fold the dough three more times, turning it through 90 degrees each time. Return the dough to the fridge for 15 minutes between each fold. You will be able to see when the dough is ready as it will look even and smooth and feel silky when you handle it Shape the dough 14. Pre-heat the oven to 200°C (fan) 15. To make the pastries, roll the dough into a large rectangle approximately 5mm thick. Use an 11cm pastry cutter to cut out 12 rounds. Do not twist the cutter as you push through the dough 16. In the centre of each round of dough, place a 30g flattened oval of the walnut frangipane. Either side of the frangipane use a sharp knife to cut a 1cm strip from the edge of the dough. Do not join the cuts up. Lift the ‘C’ shaped strips over the walnut frangipane, crossing them over to form a twist. Push 3 slices of pear into the frangipane, arranging them lengthways 17. Place the pastries on 3 heavy baking sheets and leave them to prove for about 20 minutes 18. Brush the puffy pastries with beaten egg and sprinkle the centers with chopped walnuts 19. Bake in the pre-heated oven for about 15 minutes until they are risen and golden brown 20. Whilst the pastries are baking, warm the jar of honey with the lid removed in the microwave for 1 minute on full power then stir 21. Once baked put the pastries on a cooling rack and allow them to cool slightly 22. Whilst the pastries are still warm to the touch, but not too hot, brush them all over with the warm honey using a pastry brush

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Sara Matthews runs Your Gluten Freedom , visit www.yourgluten freedom.co.uk





This lemon cake is a bit of a showstopper in the terms of GBBO. It is super delicious and special enough to serve for dessert at a dinner party. It has four gorgeous layers of sponge cake which also contain ground almonds to keep this cake moist, sandwiched together with lemon curd and buttercream. It is wrapped in heavenly marzipan then topped with white chocolate, and I always decorate with dried edible roses for that floral twist and unexpected flavour. It is gluten free and dairy free. And the best thing? It is so easy to make! INGREDIENTS

For the cake 350g of dairy free spread; 350g of caster sugar; 250g of gluten free self-raising flour; 4 large free range eggs; 100g of ground almonds; 150ml of dairy free yogurt; 2 lemons - zest and juice

Serves 12-18

To Assemble and Decorate Lemon curd (make sure it is gluten free); 500g of marzipan; 150g of dairy free white chocolate; 180g of dairy free spread; 500g of icing sugar; zest of 1 lemon; edible dried roses

METHOD Pre-heat the oven to 160°C. Grease and line two 20cm cake tins. In a large bowl, place all the ingredients and whisk to form a smooth batter. Once mixed, divide the batter equally between the two cake tins. Bake for 25-30 minutes until a skewer inserted into the cake comes out clean. Once cooked remove from the oven, allow to cool a little then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. In another bowl, cream the dairy free spread with the icing sugar until smooth. Add the lemon zest and mix, then set to one side. Slice each cake horizontally to make four cakes. On a serving plate or cake stand, place the first piece of cake. Top with lemon curd, then add another layer of cake, and top with


half the icing sugar mix. Add another layer of cake and top with lemon curd, and then the last layer of cake. With the remaining icing sugar mix, cover the sides and top. Place in a fridge for at least 30 minutes to harden, to make it easier to decorate. While cake is chilling, dust a work surface with icing sugar and roll out the marzipan so it is large enough to cover the cake. Cover the cake with the marzipan, firming down gently with your hands to remove creases and bubbles as you go. Trim the overhang. Set to one side while you melt the white chocolate in a bowl set over a pan of boiling water. Do not allow the water to touch the bowl. Once melted, allow it to cool just a little, then pour over the cake, smooth the top with a pallet knife and allow a little to dribble down the sides. Sprinkle over rose petals while wet. This cake will keep up to 4-5 days in an airtight container or cake tin

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PAY WITH PAYPAL - visit www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk to buy. If you would like to talk to someone, call editor Sarah Hardy on 07711 446054

Eating Out in the Burnhams


Your Gluten Freedom -

POLENTA STACK This fabulous looking main course is sure to wow your guests in the lead up to Christmas. It combines beautiful flavours, is gluten free, dairy free and vegetarian. The great thing about this dish is that all the component parts can be made in advance and heated up just before you serve, giving you plenty of time to grab a glass of wine and enjoy time with your guests

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS 1 medium butternut squash; 5 medium beetroots; 400g of shallots; 3tbsp of rapeseed oil; 4 cloves garlic, grated or crushed; sprig of thyme; sprig of rosemary; 1tbsp of toasted sunflower seeds; zest of 1 large orange For the polenta and spinach cake 600g of spinach; 350g of quick cook polenta; 1.5 litre of vegetable stock; 2tbsp of dried nutritional yeast, ground with a pestle and mortar to powder; 400g of mushrooms; 2tsp of gluten free mustard (I used wholegrain)

Gravy 6tbsp of Madeira; 2tbsp of honey or agave syrup; 2tbsp of balsamic vinegar; 2tbsp of tamari gluten free soy sauce; 150ml of water




METHOD 1. First, half the spinach and place it in a colander over a bowl. Pour over the boiling water until the spinach wilts. Run under cold water, then place in a clean tea towel and squeeze all the water out, set to one side in a bowl and then repeat with rest of the spinach. Cover and refrigerate until it is needed 2. Finely chop the mushrooms and fry on a medium heat with a little rapeseed oil until they start to release their water, add the mustard and cook for a further 5-8 minutes until the water turns into a thick sauce and reduces. Set to one side 3. For the polenta, bring the stock to a boil then slowly, while stirring, add the polenta to avoid getting any lumps. Cook for 3-5 minutes, continually stirring so as not to burn. Add the yeast and half the spinach and stir to combine. Set to one side for a moment. Tear off 6 pieces of cling film and place on your work surface. While the polenta is still warm and not set, spoon a sixth of the mixture onto each piece of cling film. Flatten slightly with a spoon. Then spoon a sixth of the mushroom mixture onto each flattened dollop of the polenta mix. Using the cling film, encase the mushroom mix in the centre of the polenta mix. Twist the cling film together around the polenta making a burger shape with the mixture encasing all the filling. Twist the cling film to seal. Allow it to cool then chill. The polenta


cakes can be kept in the fridge for up to 2 days 4. Once peeled, cut the beetroot into chunks and place in a roasting tin along with half the garlic, the zest of the orange, half the fresh herbs and a little oil. Then peel and chop the butternut squash, and place in another baking tray along with the peeled shallots, the rest of the garlic, the other half of the fresh herbs and a little oil. Season both trays with salt and pepper 5. Roast in the oven for 15-20 minutes until just soft. While the squash and beetroot are roasting lightly, toast some sunflower seeds set to one side. Once cooked these vegetables can be kept in the fridge for up to 24 hours until needed 6. When you are ready to serve, unwrap and place the polenta cakes on a baking tray, drizzle with a little oil and bake at 180°C until lightly browned and heated through. While the polenta is in the oven, place the roasting tray with the butternut squash and shallots on the hob and add the toasted sunflower seeds, Madeira, balsamic, honey, soy sauce, water and bring to a boil. Then simmer to reduce and thicken the sauce. Cover it with foil and place in oven until it is needed. Reheat the spinach and beetroot. Place the polenta cake onto a serving plate, top with the spinach, pile the veg on the spinach and drizzle with the gravy, garnish with any leftover herbs and serve


THERE WAS NO IMMEDIATE sign of Jamie Archer out on the shop front the morning we met. That’s because he was busy out the back sharpening knives. The hands on butcher is the third generation to oversee the quality butchers shop on Plumstead Road in Norwich. Archer’s was established way back in 1929, when John Archer started on Norwich market – he would go on to found the shop on Plumstead Road. His son James (Jimmy) came into the trade as soon as he was allowed to leave school and in the early 80s bought the business from his father. Since then the shop has doubled in size to cope with extra demand, and a deli and baguette takeaway have been added. Jamie (another James!) has grown up in the trade and says: ‘My first job was as a Saturday boy at the age of 13.’ Joining full-time 22 years ago was a ‘no brainer’ adds Jamie, who is now 41. ‘Heritage is something you want to keep going. You can’t buy that.’ It is clear that Jamie is taking the business even further forward, and the former photography student certainly has an eye for aesthetics. The shop had a refit a couple of years ago and Jamie comments: ‘It’s made it a much more pleasant shopping experience’. Add to that the friendly staff (there are 10 full time and 10 part time) and Archer’s has a recipe for success. The family butchers specialises in selling quality, local and free range meat. ‘Since joining I’ve introduced high welfare meat - as animal welfare is a very big part of what I believe in,’ says Jamie, before adding: ‘Butchery is my chosen profession and I want to do it as ethically as possible.’ Provenance is also top of his list of priorities, as he explains: ‘My grandad used to buy direct from the farmers and they had a close relationship and I’ve tried to keep that going.’ Beef is supplied by William Almey of Tavistock Farm, Antingham; high welfare outdoor reared pork is from Tim Allen of Morley Farm, South Creake; lamb is from Wimberley Hall farm in Lincolnshire (‘I know it’s not Norfolk but we’ve been buying from the same farmer for years and it’s by far the best lamb I’ve tasted’). This time of year, Archer’s is busy selling game: pheasant, venison, partridge, pigeon, guinea fowl, rabbit and grouse. And, as Jamie points out: ‘It’s a good time for people to start thinking about Christmas.’





Awar d-w in ni ng fam ily butc he rs, Arc he r’s, has m ad e a go od name fo r itself, se lli ng high qual ity fo od, sin ce 1929. Em m a Out te n mee ts th ir d ge ne ratio n butc he r Jam ie Arc he r

Archer's F R O N T


Orders are now being taken and this year’s offerings include a deluxe hamper, speciality meats (Archer’s won a national award for its pork wellington in 2012, by the way), three bird roasts plus festive pies and stuffing. Poultry might be top of the list in the run up to Christmas (choose from Great Grove free range white or bronze turkeys, Peele’s Norfolk Black turkeys, Martins Farm free range chickens, St George high welfare barn chickens or free range geese - again from Great Grove Farm in Attleborough). And mention must be made of Archer’s sausages (after all British Sausage Week finishes on November 6): they have won the annual Battle of the Bangers so many times Jamie decided to take over the running of the competition to give other butchers a fighting chance! Opposite the meat counter is an impressive deli, providing a wide selection of home cooked meats and pastries, and traditional home-made products such as pork and onion dripping, potted meat, pork cheese (a meat jelly made with the head), faggots and a selection of hot pies and sausage rolls. Condiments include Bay Tree Gourmet Cooking Sauces, Stokes real sauces, local honey, goose fat, Madhuban curry sauces, Spicentice meat rubs, and Crush rapeseed oil. Archer’s ready meals are proving popular including the very latest restaurant quality meals. Every week will feature a new meal, ranging from hearty stews and casseroles to more delicate meals. ‘We offer a range of meals that you can cook in 30 minutes or less, as people lead busy lives,’ says Jamie. All are made on site by experienced chef Tom. Jamie says of Archer’s: ‘I like to think of it as a mini farm shop, in the city.’ He has no qualms about diversifying to meet the modern demand for ready meals and ready to eat food: ‘Just this year I’ve had the new kitchen built on the back of the premises.’ And his plans for next year include putting the home delivery service online. Jamie says: ‘We are a progressive butchers; for example we’ll go to London and get a lot of inspiration from other butchers. It’s important to keep up with the current food trends and to be professional.’ Plus, the butcher with the photographer’s eye concludes: ‘It’s all about image – it’s no good having a really nice piece of meat but just throwing it on a tray in the window – that’s not going to sell it. It’s got to look the part.’





Archer’s Butchers, 177-179 Plumstead Road, Norwic h. Call 01603 434253





Lakenham Creamery

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25/08/2016 13:49



In the second of a new look series about food and wine pairing, wine expert Steve Hearnden looks at what to drink with Sunday lunch

BEEF needs a good strong red wine and I think the best is the Chateau Famaey. This Cahors wines is from the Malbec grape (made famous by the South American wineries). Malbec has been grown for centuries in this region and is the best in the world! Grown on terraced vineyards on the River Lot, the soil and microclimates make an immense difference to the wine finally produced. The grapes for this wine are grown on the second and third terraces, with gravelly, clay soils. The harvest is manual with low yields to obtain high quality wine. Maceration lasts for 14 to 18 days giving good colour and flavours. This wine is often referred to as the black wine. This wine will improve for some years yet but do not wait – open the bottle a few hours before you are going to serve lunch. Chateau Famaey Cahors (Malbec), £14.99 per bottle If you wish to upgrade, then try the Chateau Famaey Cuvee X, vintages 2004, 2007 and 2009. These need decanting and are pure heaven for Malbec/Cahors lovers, from £18.99 per bottle


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F ood & Wine Pai ri ng

AS A BOY we used to frequently have trifle as a pudding after a Sunday roast and so I thought I would try and match a wine with fruit trifle. Mum used to wave the sherry bottle over it but I doubt much went into the trifle and the fruit (out of season) was tinned. Now frozen fruit is excellent and so whilst it is November I am still going with it! A couple of months ago I wrote about the Domaine la Bouysse and the brother and sister team who make the wine. This time I am recommending Floreal 2014 from the same Domaine. It is made from the Grenache grape and is classified as a Corbiere wine. The grapes are pressed and the juice and skins do come in contact with each other but only for a short time to ensure a light pink coloured wine. The wine has strong strawberry and raspberry aromas and, served chilled, is perfect as a pudding wine. Not overly sweet but just sufficient residual sugar to give it that soft taste. Balanced acidity completes the taste. The wine is aged for a very short time in vats before bottling in the following January. The whole vineyard is being converted to organic culture and the vines used in this wine are about 15 years old. This wine is exceptionally good value for money and would also accompany light spicy Asian food. Domaine la Bouysse Corbieres Floreal, £8.95 a bottle

Wine -





OAK Andy Newman explains the natural affinity between wine and wood




GETTING PENCIL shavings on the nose...’ Oh how we scoffed when these words came out of the mouth of 1980s TV wine expert Jilly Goolden. The phrase became a bit of a catchphrase for her, giving the satirists on Spitting Image an easy target. The thing is, though, she was absolutely right. This was the age of the over-oaked Australian Chardonnay, a drink infused with so many woody notes that drinking a glass or two was indeed akin to chewing on a pencil. For a brief moment, this horrendous style became fashionable with winemakers across the globe, who should have known better, rushing to copy a technique which was pretty effective at masking any expression of the grape itself. In these days, when every supermarket groans with wines from all over the world, it is easy to forget just what a revolution these first mass-market New World imports were. Nowadays, winemakers are generally confident enough to be proud of their own country’s grapes and winemaking styles, but back in the day many New World producers felt they had to try and emulate the better-known names from Europe. In the case of Chardonnay, that meant trying to be like Burgundy, and the thing they focussed on was the fact that most decent Burgundies are fermented and matured in oak barrels. What they failed to realise was that achieving the delicate balance between imparting a subtle oak character and completely overwhelming the wine is something that European winemakers have taken nearly two millennia to perfect. It was the Celts who first realised that wooden barrels were better vessels for wine, than the fragile amphoras loved by the Romans, being more robust, more watertight and easier to transport. Oak soon became the wood of choice to make these barrels: close-pored and with less of the resiny sap contained in other wood. But whilst oak barrels impart less flavour to their contents than ones made from other trees, that does not mean that they are completely inert. Oak – and


Three wines Andy has enjoyed this month CÔTES DU RHÔNE PABLO HOCHT, 2012 (Les Garrigues, £13.75) One sniff and you are instantly transported to the wild herbinfused hillside in the northern Rhône where this evocative wine is made. Savoury, balanced and delicious, this is the epitome of a wine which expresses its terroir – and it hasn’t been anywhere near an oak barrel.

LIBERATOR – AN ARROGANCE OF SOMMELIERS, BORDEAUX BLAND (Harper Wells, £16.99) British Master of Wine Richard Kelley has taken to travelling South Africa, ‘liberating’ barrels from his friends at some of the Cape’s leading wineries, and creating very limited edition wines from them. This latest, a Bordeauxstyle blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc from the DeMorgenzon cellars in Stellenbosch, is smooth, rich and full. It’s drinking well now, but will benefit from a year or three in the cellar.

BLIND RIVER SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, AWATERE VALLEY, MARLBOROUGH (Majestic, £9.99 when bought as part of a mixed case of six bottles) Sauvignon Blanc is one grape which is generally kept clear of oak to maintain its clean, fresh taste, but Kiwi winemaker Bec Wiffen has fermented a small proportion of his crop in oak barrels to give not an oaky flavour, but a softness. The result is a complex glass bursting with tropical fruit, citrus and green apples. Part of Majestic’s latest ‘Black Book’ collection, so only available in small quantities.


especially toasted oak, toasting being part of the cooperage process – can give wine a huge range of different flavours, including vanilla, spice, caramel and even coffee. All of this can give a depth and complexity to the wine contained in the barrel – or it can completely overwhelm the wine and ruin it. As too many early antipodean winemakers found out. And don’t think that all oak is the same, because it very definitely is not. New World winemakers tended to favour the American oak (Quercus alba), which imparts less tannin, but does give out more aromatics to its contents. By contrast, those denizens of Burgundy use the more subtle European oaks (Quercus robur and Quercus petraea). But much as growing the same grape variety in different geographies will give you very different wines, so the oaks grown in the Allier forests will not furnish the same characteristics as those grown in the Limousin. There are many, many variables. Whatever barrels are used in the winery, they will always add expense to the wine. A standard 225 litre Allier oak barrique costs anything up to £750; divide that cost between the 300 bottles it contains, and you can see that the winemaker has to be pretty confident that it will make a difference to the finished product. No wonder that wines at the lower end of the market are often exposed to cheaper, harsher oak barrels, or even subjected to the ‘tea-bag’ – a muslin bag of rough oak chips dangled into a container of wine and left to infuse, just like a sachet of Earl Grey. Thankfully, the trend for over-oaked wines has receded, as the New World winemakers learned how to use oak properly, and as consumer tastes changed. Used well, oak enhances wine, bringing out its best characteristics, and adding a subtle and complementary flavour. But if it is oak that first hits you when you stick your nose in the glass – Jilly Goolden’s ‘pencil shavings’ – then the winemaker has almost certainly got the balance wrong.

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Be er D R I N K



In her first beer column for Feast Norfolk Belinda Jennings, head brewer at local awardwinning brewery Woodforde’s, looks at beer trends in the run up to the festive season

A d n I L Be



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Dark beers - these

HERE ARE THE TRENDS: IPA pale ale - this has always been a great trend setter and we don’t expect this to disappear any time soon as it appeals to all with its every imaginable flavour and form, as well as special releases with different blends of hop and the infamous white IPA.

are really on trend right now, with the recent champion beer of Britain winner a dark beer. We will start to see more of these produced, especially in winter when dark beer has always been a popular tipple. We have some great dark beers here at Woodforde's, which include our Norfolk Nog, a really popular smooth, rich and rounded old ale, with a velvety texture and hints of chocolate, treacle and liquorice and at Christmas we actually produce our very own ‘Nog’ Christmas pudding. This winter, don’t be afraid to try beer; there are new flavours and styles popping up everywhere especially with the increase in the number of microbreweries popping up more and more. Remember to try before you buy if you’re unsure, as most pubs will let you sample to enable you to make an informed decision. Darker beers become more widely available over the winter months and tend to complement more of the winter warmer dishes available, from delicious stews, meaty roasts and cheeses and, with the nights drawing in, there’s nothing better than visiting your local pub for a pint and a bite to eat.

Keg - the future, allowing pubs to offer different beers on different days with no wasted stock and also a longer shelf life than cask, it also offers a different drinking experience to the consumer as it’s consumed not necessarily as a ‘session beer’ due to its stronger ABV, and therefore opens up a new experience for the punter.

Lagers - last but not least are the lagers. With craft breweries shifting towards easier drinking beers and embracing lagers, this is another trend also on the up. Flavour is key for the easy drinking crowd with smaller barrel-aged and sour beers (less ‘sessionable’ due to higher ABV but still trending) appealing to wider audiences and also key in driving growth in the local beer festivals.

HE BEER MARKET continues to be driven by premium beers; whether it’s imported premium lager, premium bottled ales or so called ‘craft beer’, beer is experiencing a resurgence in popularity, and interest in beer is likely to continue to rise. With the Millennial market looking more towards sharing moments and experiences, then this in turn is bound to bring more consumers to beer. With more breweries opening up across the UK than ever before, people are enjoying more beer and expecting more for their money and the range on offer there’s never been a better time to jump on-board.




Tinsel toes - a long standing favourite with our customers and one we continue to bring out every Christmas. With roast malts and spicy rich fruits, it’s the perfect accompaniment to turkey and continues the dark beer trends we see over the winter months. Tundra - this is a new style for us, a white IPA and one which draws characteristics from two styles of beer: IPA and Belgian Witbier. It’s very citrusy, with notes of grapefruit from the citrus hops and with the subtle spice character of a Belgian white. OUR 2017 SEASONAL ALE RANGE: There are some exciting and interesting new flavours coming up in 2017, including a white IPA with our new beer, Tundra, and also an American IPA called Electric IPA coming out next July. We are bringing six new seasonal ales to the collection with new ingredients, hops and malts to add some real flavour and variety to the range, from red rye ales, super quality cask IPAs, honey flavourings and Simcoe hops.



S andringh am -


Ap pl e Ju ice



THE APPLE OF HIS EYE ANDREW JARVIS has been used to receiving a Christmas gift from Her Majesty The Queen over the years. After all, he worked on what was then the Royal Fruit Farm on The Sandringham Estate for a good couple of decades or more. And he still looks after 30 acres of apple orchards on the Estate, having formed Sandringham Apple Juice in 2013. He says of working for The Queen: ‘You get used to it after a while, and take it in your stride, really.’ His relationship with the Estate goes back further, however. ‘I used to work on the fruit farm when I was a youngster, my mother worked on the farm as well during the apple season, and I’d sort of grown up with it.’ These days Andrew is based in a traditional Norfolk barn on the Estate and oversees the production of eight varieties of apple juice. ‘It’s effectively the same job but with a bit more paperwork!’ The continuity has helped the business and, he adds, ‘of course the name Sandringham helps.’ The eight single varieties range from Bramley which is dry to Egremont Russet which is sweet - in-between you’ll find Discovery, Katy, Worcester Pearmain, Laxtons Fortune, Cox’s, and Howgate Wonder. ‘Cox’s is the biggest seller, by a long way,’ says Andrew, ‘mainly because people know the name. Cox’s amounts to about 70 per cent of the sales.’ Although he adds: ‘I think Bramley is becoming more popular now people are starting to look at sugar content. But it does vary.’ As well as producing the juice, and bottling it in those distinctive green bottles, the orchards open up www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

as a pick your own in early autumn. Andrew says: ‘I sell more Egremont Russet on the pick your own, than I do any other.’ He lives in Flitcham, where the orchards are, and his father and wife both help out during the pick your own season, along with his two sons, aged 22 and 17, when they are at home - one is currently in Australia and the other is studying at Easton College. The pick your own season finished last month and between now and Christmas Andrew and his colleague Dawn Brack, who also used to work on the Royal Fruit Farm, will be busy pressing. Then, he says: ‘Come the New Year it will be straight into pruning, right through to March time.’ The summer season starts around Easter time, ‘and then the juice sales start coming in,’ Andrew says. As well as the apple juice, Sandringham Apple Juice has also branched out into cider and apple brandy. Plus, Andrews says: ‘We’ve increased our portfolio with Apple and Blueberry Juice this year.’ This new blended juice, packaged in a distinctive blue bottle this time, is a collaboration between Andrew and Mike Knights of Fairgreen Farms – the blueberry picking business in Middleton, West Norfolk. Andrew recalls: ‘We got a table out along with bottles of apple and blueberry juice

and Mike came up with the best proportions.’ The juice was runner-up in this year’s Apple Juice competition (in the Blended Juice category) organised by the National Fruit Show, which took place last month in Kent. Andrew’s Egremont Russet Apple Juice was also runner-up in the Single Variety category. Are there any other collaborations in the pipeline? ‘There is something I may get the green light for,’ he replies. Stockists wise, Andrew has been known to provide apple juice for the Royal Garden Parties at Buckingham Palace and Holyrood, as well as selected Waitrose Stores and the Spaghetti House chain of restaurants in London. And you will also find his products in the Visitor Centre at Sandringham, Chatsworth Farm Shop and Windsor Farm Shop plus lots of other fine shops and delis in Norfolk (such as Thornham Deli and The Norfolk Deli in Hunstanton). You might also chance upon Sandringham Apple Juice at Creake Abbey Farmers’ Market, for example. What is it about apples Andrew likes working with? ‘That’s a good question,’ he says. ‘I’d say growing them, as no two seasons are the same, as you can’t dictate to Mother Nature. For example, as I said Cox’s are our biggest seller, and yet this year I could’ve done with half as many on the trees but them being twice as big!’ Does he drink Sandringham Apple Juice for breakfast every day? ‘Not every day but I do indulge every now and then! Discovery is probably my favourite as it’s not too sweet.’

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Having worked more than 20 years for Her Majesty The Queen, on The Sandringham Estate, Andrew Jarvis is perfectly placed to manage Sandringham Apple Juice. Emma Outten chats to him

Quiz Night la


st Thur sda ever y moynof th LIVE


GARY C PAI E Sund , ay 5G NOVEM TH ber 8.30pm -11. 30pm



THE GIN TRAP INN is a traditional and cosy 17th century coaching inn. Serving delicious homemade fare & offering luxurious rooms. Open from 11:30am to late daily C H R I S T M A S D AY L U N C H

Enjoy Christmas in our cosy corner of Norfolk, with log fires and bountiful food and drink. Just how Christmas should be! NEW YEAR’S EVE @ THE GIN TRAP INN

Bring in New Year with a bang! Enjoy our finger buffet and dance the night away with live music from Shoo the Moon! S T AY W I T H U S

Our sumptuous rooms are all en-suite plus we’ve 2 luxury self catering cottages. Enjoy 2-night breaks for Christmas or New Year.

Middle of nowhere, centre of everywhere!

Fresh, local and seasonal is our ethos here at the Saracen’s Head, so come and enjoy a delicious, locally sourced meal with us See us featured in the Norfolk Table Cookbook Lunch orders will be taken from 12-2pm. Dinner from 6.30 to 8.30pm except Sundays and Mondays 6.30-8pm

For further information or to make a booking call us on 01263 768909 or email info@saracenshead-norfolk.co.uk

Call now to book or visit our website for full details

6 High Street, Ringstead, Hunstanton, Norfolk PE36 5JU www.thegintrapinn.co.uk








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ear ime of y st t e h t ’s It bu of fizz, ro es, y t n le p it for crisp wh s d n a s d e r Hardy a h a r a S s n say at the fu s s k o lo e sh le drink b a n io h and fas ries on the accesso ket mar 04.



Where to bu y

01. Fred tapped bottle stopper and wine pourer, £8.50, Jarrold’s 02. KitchenCraft drinks strainer, £6.99, The Kitchenary Cookshop, Taverham Garden Centre, Norwich 03. Vacu Vin bottle coaster, £2.75, Bakers and Larners of Holt 04. English Pewter Company mini stag decanter set, £108, John Lewis 05. Fred Gin and Titonic ice cube tray £7, Jarrold’s 06. KitchenCraft Champagne stopper, £4.99, The Kitchenary Cookshop, Taverham Garden Centre, Norwich





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M ark E l vi n


This month Mark Elvin of The Boars in South Norfolk uses a local gin to produce a starter that would grace any dinner party

Who are you and where do you work? My name is Mark Elvin and I am the head chef at The Boars in Spooner Row, near Wymondham How long have you been there? I joined the team in August this year. There are now five of us in the kitchen Where were you before? I was at The Wildebeest in Stoke Holy Cross, near Norwich. I was there for four years, most recently with Dan Smith. I have worked in many hotels and restaurants across the country including Hampshire and the Cotswolds, having started as a kitchen porter at Weavers Wine Bar in Diss where I am originally from Where did you train? Like many chefs in the area, I trained

at City College which was a great experience. I was there for three years Who has inspired you? I have to say my mum and nan. They were both great family cooks, and I was always in the kitchen with them, banging about with pots and pans! My nan's roasts were legendery as she has died! What is your favourite ingredient? I love Norfolk produce, say Cromer crabs, asparagus when it is in season, and, at this time of year, all the game we get from local estates. We really do have some of the best ingredients available right here on our doorstep Got a favourite gadget? I have a new Thermomix which is like my new baby. I love it as it does everything, it is just like having another chef in the

kitchen. It is classified as a blender, but steams, weighs, cooks, and so much more What is your signature dish? I love to experiment and have created a new starter using Bullards gin which we are putting on the menu here at The Boars. I can change it as the seasons alter, but it is based around curing the salmon in the gin, with sea salt and sugar, for three days. It is delicious What do you like doing when you’re not cooking? We have a 11-month-old daughter, Isla, so she takes up all our time. My wife, Rouve, is from South Africa and is the general manager of The Wildebeest. We try to feed Isla what we eat, and we all sit at the table together. I also have a 14-year-old son, Kai, who is a great help,


and we love to visit friends and the local tourist attractions, like Banham Zoo Do you use local producers? Yes always. We get our meat from the Paddocks at Mulbarton, where Keith uses local herds, we use local cheeses, we have a local seafood supplier, eggs from Cavick Farm in Wymondham, and we’re always keen to hear from other possible suppliers

What are your foodie predictions for 2017? I think diners will continue to be interested in local food and local producers - but I also think things might get a bit wacky, with edible insects and the like. People like something a bit different at times!


What would you do if you were not a chef? That’s a hard one as I always wanted to be a chef. I guess it might be something to do with computers? It is part of my job now, and something I enjoy



Recently refurbished, delightful inn on the

north Norfolk coast


Available Monday to Friday throughout December



www.chequersinnthornham.com info@chequersinnthornham.com High Street, Thornham, Norfolk, PE36 6LY | tel: 01485 512229


INGREDIENTS Cured Salmon 1/2 side of fresh salmon, scaled, pin boned and skin removed; 50ml of Bullards Norwich Dry Gin; 500g of sugar; 500g of fine table salt; 1 bunch of parsley

Mark Elvin -


Bitter Orange Purée 1 orange; 2 tbsp of honey; 100g of sugar Beetroot Salmon Eggs 50g of salmon eggs; 200ml of beetroot juice Crispy Capers 28 capers; 150g of plain flour; 125g of water; salt and pepper; 1 tsp of cornflour METHOD Cured Salmon 1. Tip all the ingredients, apart from the salmon, into a food processor and whizz until everything is a combined paste 2. Scatter about a third of the salt mix onto a large tray in a line about the size of the salmon fillet. Lay the salmon, skinned-side down, over the salt and pack the rest of the salt on top. Cover with cling film and leave in the fridge for 48 hours 3. After 48 hours remove salmon from fridge and under cold running water, wash the salt mix off the salmon fillet, then dry with kitchen paper. Lay the salmon on a board and slice into thin strips


Celeriac Remoulade 500g of celeriac; 1tsp of grain mustard; 1 whole lemon juice; salt and pepper; 2tbsp of mayonnaise; 50g of parsley


Bullar ds Norwic h Dry Gin Cured Salmon, Celeriac Remoul ade, Beetro ot Salmon Eggs, Crispy Capers, Bit ter Orange Purée Serves 4-6

Celeriac Remoulade 1. Grate celeriac on coarse grater 2. Squeeze the lemon juice over the celeriac to stop it going brown 3. Add mustard, chopped parsley and mayonnaise and mix together 4. Season to taste Bitter Orange Purée 1. Place the orange in cold water until covered and bring to the boil. Boil for 5 minutes, refresh under cold running water. Repeat step 1 three times 2. After the third time add the orange to a blender with the honey and sugar. Blitz until smooth Beetroot Salmon Eggs 1. Pour the beetroot juice over the salmon eggs and leave to marinate for minimum of 2 hours. The salmon eggs will take on the beetroot colour Crispy Capers 1. Mix all ingredients apart from the capers to form a batter 2. Coat the capers in a small amount of flour and dip into the batter mix 3. Deep-fry at 180°C until golden and crisp



d ga rn is h Arr an ge on pl at e an cr ess w ith m ic ro pa rs le y

H ol t as C hri sht mt s Lig






GETTING SWITCHED ON TO HOLT With the big Christmas Lights Switch On taking place in Holt on November 30, Emma Outten previews the event and suggests a few places to eat before or afterwards! IT’S COMING UP to that time of year again: when Holt in North Norfolk will be framed by thousands of fairy tale lights in preparation for the festive season. The switch on of the Holt Christmas Lights last year was something of a leap of faith, as organisers had invited male traders to dress up as pantomine dames and female traders to dress up as leading boys! Is it going to happen again? Oh yes it is! The town’s tradesmen and women are embracing the pantomime theme once again, when the lights are switched on, on November 30. Colin Rawlings from Red Dot Gallery is on the organising team. He sets the scene: ‘Expect to see

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK BYFORDS, Shirehall Plain www.byfords.org.uk For afternoon tea and cakes before the event, or ‘the most romantic, candlelit dinner in Norfolk’ afterwards! KINGS HEAD, High Street www.kingsheadholt.org.uk For its steak restaurant and real ale pub A TASTE OF INDIA, Bull Street www.tasteofindiaholt.co.uk For fine Indian cuisine THE BARN CAFÉ & BISTRO, Appleyard www.the-barn-bistro.co.uk For homemade scones, cakes and coffee THE FEATHERS/THE PLUME RESTAURANT, Market Place www.thefeathershotel.com For dishes created from fresh, local ingredients THE BLACK APOLLO COFFEE HOUSE, High Street For finely crafted coffee, teas, cakes and pastries ADRIAN HILL FINE ART CAFE, Lees Yard www.adrianhillfineart.com For coffee with art by Sir Alfred Munnings THE FOLLY TEAROOM, Hoppers Yard www.follystearoom.co.uk For some vintage romance to get you in the mood THE LAWNS HOTEL, Station Road www.lawnshotelholt.co.uk For its AA Rosette restaurant and bar NUMBER 28, High Street For its afternoon tea HORATIO MUGS CAFÉ, Bull Street For lunch or dinner CAPRI, Fish Hill www.caprinorfolk.com For pizza and pasta THE OWL TEAROOMS, Church Street NINA’S BAR BISTRO, Lees Yard www.ninasholt.co.uk For its Wine Bar and Bistro

O f co ur se, fo od an d dr in k w ill be an e es se nt ia l pa rt of th ts H ol t Chr is tm as Li gh , sw itc h on ev en t. A nd s le t’s fa ce it, H ol t ha ne. so m et hi ng fo r ev er yo io n: H er e’s ju st a se le ct a host of characters tending their shops and stores. In addition, a pantomime horse race will be one of the highlights of our evening - the nags and steeds will be galloping - or struggling -up and down the high street before the winner is presented with its trophy.’ And he continues: ‘Our lantern parade, along with bells and whistles, drums and hurdygurdy, will wind its way from the community centre all the way to the war memorial - it's a community parade so all are welcome to join: dress the part if you will, bring your lanterns and torches, blow your bugle or bang your drum!’ Plus Norfolk’s Fairyland Trust charity will once again add their touch of magic with giant illuminated animals and birds held aloft over the main parade. So you can expect lots of lights, beautiful Norway spruce trees gleaming and twinkling, fireworks, street entertainment, Christmas fare and plenty of parking. It all starts around 5pm but it’s wise to get there earlier. And don’t forget that many shops open late that evening too.





Charlotte Gurney promises to help you get the Big Day sorted - before it is even December! ARE YOU LIKE ME? Just packing away the summer gear, clearing out the rotting pumpkins and thinking how can it possibly be Christmas once again? Fear not, for at White House Farm, we've been gearing up for Christmas, particularly our Christmas market, for months. After last year's massive success, we're scaling up - recruiting even more innovative Christmassy stalls to bring you our biggest market yet. For two days in November, the farm promises to help you tick off that Christmas gift list, catering for each and every tricky relative, friend or neighbour. We have some of our classics like Candi's Chutney, Bon Bakery with their superb biscuits, La Belle's brilliant sock bouquets, plus all sorts of crafty types with offerings ranging from new gins to homemade Christmas crackers and doggie friendly advent calendars to name just a few. What I love most about the event is that it incorporates all sorts of local artists and designers meaning the treasures you find are likely to be one offs. So if you are looking for an outing, we've got it covered! It's only our second ever Christmas trading, as previously we stuck to summer months, just growing and selling fruit. Now we like to think that we can sell just about everything for a superb culinary Christmas from delicious woodland reared turkeys from local Great Grove Poultry to homemade Christmas pud to our new

range of colourful pasta from our new Italian supplier in Puglia. And if you're in need of a present to incorporate the best of White House Farm for that client that has everything, for the first time, you can put together the best of our range into our very own hamper. We'll do the hard work, (we've already got pots of jam stacked high with all your favourite summer berries) you just have to drive away smug that you've nailed it this year before December even arrived!

Christmas Market: November 19 and 20


Whi t e H ou se F arm




Alby Tearooms & Bistro Cromer Road, Erpingham NR11 7QE 01263 761652 www.albycrafts.co.uk

From The Norfolk Farm Shop to your Christmas dinner plate, come and celebrate the best of Norfolk food at Alby Tearooms and Bistro Just a few tables remain for our fabulous Christmas dinner nights at the cosy Bistro, specially dressed for the festive season. If you’ve enjoyed our sumptuous Norfolk Steak nights or sampled our amazing wood fired pizzas you will know that we take pride in putting lovingly prepared Norfolk food straight from our Farm Shop at Taverham onto your dinner plate



Soft drinks come free of charge for your nominat ed driver





Unit 1, The Field, Fir Covert Rd, Taverham, Norwich NR8 6HT | 01603 868 407 www.norfolk-farmshop.co.uk

Christmas isn’t complete without a warming cup of tea

go to our website to see the full range of our festive teas


E arsham S tre et De li -






Earsham Street Deli

It’s the most wonderful time of the year and we’re celebrating our tenth Christmas with a more beatiful selection of food and drink to suit every taste and budget than ever before. From chocolates to cheeseboards, (and much more in between!), we have everything you need.

Fi nd us at 51 Ea rsh am St, B un gay NR35 1AF, cal l 01986 894754 or vis it ww w.e ars ha ms tre etd eli. co. uk 63

OUR TOP PICKS ARE… Honey and Sea Salt Caramels from B Chocolates in Suffolk Handmade using local honey and topped with a single flake of salt; the perfect chocs with provenance. Ginger and Clementine Syrup from Makers and Merchants Move over Mulled Wine Syrup (although it’s still blooming good!), add a drop of this syrup to your fizz for a festive tipple. Our bespoke hamper We believe receiving an Earsham Street Deli hamper is one of life’s real joys. We select every product individually to suit the recipient, or leave it to you to create your own. It’s then presented in one of our lovely baskets and tied with jute ribbon.


Bu t che r's




Yo ur loc al butch er is wa itin g for yo ur tiv e pe rio d Ch ris tm as or de rs as we en ter the fes IT’S THE TIME OF YEAR that butchery counters are looking spectacular. We all want something extra special to eat during the festive period as we tend to entertain more, and we also need to be fully prepared for the big day itself. Butchers are a font of knowledge, with advice on different joints and cuts, plus cooking times and techniques. Never be afraid to ask as they love to chat. They are passionate supporters of local produce so you know you are guaranteed excellent quality meats, where provenance is known, and many also offer their own burgers, casserole mixes and treats such as Beef Wellington. For Christmas, it has to be turkey, doesn’t it? And many of us enjoy offering a side of gammon, too. How about venison for New Year’s Eve? And don’t forget to order plenty of sausages! They are now busy taking Christmas bookings so don’t delay, support your local economy by supporting your local traders, and you’ll end up with some top quality food for your Christmas celebrations.





PROUDLY FOLKuce CHRISTMAS NORChops Pork only prod All of our locally is sourced



ALYSHAM 01263 732280

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C h arl ie H odson C O L U M N


B ri ti sh Sau sa ge Wee k O ct ob er 31 to Nov em be r 6 HUGO, JAMES, CHARLIE AND CANDIE

In his first column, Norfolk chef and all round foodie Charlie Hodson tells us all about a rather special sausage

AS WITH SO many fab ideas, it started with a simple conversation over some Grey Seal coffee. Three local boys passionate about the county’s food and drink – Hugo Stevenson (Community Fundraiser for Marie Curie), Jamie Archer (of Archer’s Butchers) and I came up with a cunning plan to support British Sausage Week whilst raising funds for Marie Curie. The plan was flawless – a perfect sausage from Archer’s Butchers, helping to put the Great British Butcher firmly in the minds of the public, whilst raising money for a fabulous charity. But something was missing. They needed an ally. And who better to assist with their quest than the Queen of Chutneys, Candi Robertson, who promises to lend a truly special twist to Jamie’s already award winning sausages.

So what was the plan?

Develop a simple recipe for a Norfolk sausage developed by a master butcher, using the best pork that our county has to offer with assistance from an award winning chutney maker and developed with a Norfolk Food Champion. And the best bit is why - to help support a charity that we all love and is dear to our hearts; Marie Curie Norfolk.


Charlie is a Consultant Chef, Director of Charlie’s Norfolk Food Heroes and Regional Ambassador for Marie Curie Norfolk




The arduous journey

The development of a new concept, as any chef will tell you, is no easy feat; days and nights of tasting - a touch more of this and a smidgen less of that. Of course those involved cannot divulge the ingredients, as most butchers' sausage recipes are fiercely guarded secrets and they get handed down from one generation to the next, but what can go wrong, with the finest Norfolk has to offer. So two months later and the Archer’s Norfolk Nobbler Sausage in aid of Marie Curie is available from Archer’s Butchers, The Street Café on Magdalen Street and appears on the Grazing Menu at Bedfords Norwich.

And let’s not forget why

Jamie, Hugo, Candi and I are all passionate supporters of Marie Curie and the work the Marie Curie nurses do assisting families who feel powerless to help their loved ones in their final days and hours. This is the reason why the Marie Curie Nurses are often called ‘Angels’ and it is they who have inspired us to push this idea from being just that - a great idea discussed over coffee - into reality.

ch er s or ta ke fr ie nd s ut B r’s he rc A to ng So ge t alo r at Bed fo rd s or The ne din or h nc lu r fo t ou ive or t th is fa bu lo us in iti at St re et Ca fe an d su pp

Sarah Ruffhead C O L U M N


of banana ice cream on the side for good measure. A great combination of tastes: sweet and salty. THREE


Norfolk foodie Sarah Ruffhead tells us the five things she has loved eating this month ONE

Sausage Rolls

Who doesn't love a great sausage roll? And one like this is heaven indeed: the hub of Blakeney Delicatessen is its own on-site kitchen, from where warm-fromthe-oven pastries appear, including this acclaimed 'Best sausage roll in East Anglia'. This signature pastry comes plain, or with their home-made red onion marmalade, which was the one I really loved. TWO

Sticky Toffee Pudding

This proper pudding, (always popular with men, I think), was a real treat to end a delicious supper at The Anchor at Morston. A light, but rich in flavour, sponge, enrobed in salted caramel sauce (always a favourite) and a large scoop

Miso Marinated Cod Fillet

I'd been keen to visit the newly refurbished Hero in Burnham Overy Staithe, as it now has the two boys who own the above-mentioned Anchor at the helm. I wasn’t disappointed: I love the place. This dish, which both my friend and I chose, was more than delicious. Miso pairs so well with cod, and this was a lovely chunk of snowy white fish, served with wasabi pea puree, for a bit of a kick, fresh peas, tiny golden parmentier potatoes, and topped with crispy seaweed and micro herbs. Such a pretty plate of yumminess. FOUR

Scallops with Beans

I found this recipe in a sweet little book called Cicchetti by Liz Franklin, full of small-bite Italian appetizers, and tweaked it slightly, serving it as a starter for a dinner party at home. I bought the (huge) roes-on scallops from Gurneys in Burnham Market, and ordered the shells online. You finely chop fennel, celery, garlic, and flat leaf parsley, and mix with cannellini beans, a pinch of sugar, zest and juice of a lemon, and good olive oil. Season well. The scallops are dusted lightly with curry powder


and pan fried in olive oil. I topped each one with crisp pancetta. A lovely combination of flavours and textures. Looks good too. FIVE


And so we went to The River Café on Thames Wharf, for a fantastic dinner with my son and his friends to celebrate his 30th birthday. Wow! The food (and wine and Prosecco and fabulous Colombare pudding wine), was sublime. We all tasted each other’s food, vying to see who had chosen the best. My antipasti of cuttlefish cooked in ink, with parsley, lemon zest and grilled polenta, was perfection. Not as pretty as squid, and you look as though you have been sucking on a Mont Blanc pen, your mouth is so sinisterly black, (the ink is said to resemble the mud dredged from the bottom of the Venetian lagoon), but it was a thrilling taste of the sea with a lovely fresh zing of lemon.






Lovewell Blake -

w a L g in ll e b a L n I s e g n a h C ? n e h T r a le C ll A ’s t a h T –

Justin Wright, who heads up Lovewell Blake’s specialist food and drink team, says that even enthusiastic Leavers may be pleased to welcome new EU labelling laws VISIT

WE NOW KNOW that the government intends to trigger the two year process by which Britain will leave the EU next spring – but even as we take another step towards the brave new post-EU world, our food producers are having to embrace another Brusselsdetermined change in the way that food is labelled. In December of this year, the European Commission’s mandatory Food Information for Consumers regulations are due to be fully implemented. Amongst other measures, these will change the way that nutritional information is presented, as well as introducing a more open approach to information about allergens and the origin of ingredients (for example, the country of origin of most meat products). Of course, until the Article 50 negotiations are concluded, we are still members of the EU. That means that producers still have to abide by EU law, and so whatever the eventual outcome of EU trade negotiations, producers will have another set of regulatory hoops to jump through before the end of the year.


Theresa May has indicated that the plan is to enshrine all existing EU law into British law at the point we exit the EU – and that only after then will there be a process of working through all that legislation to work out what will be kept, what will be amended, and what might be repealed. Producers might welcome that decision, as it does at least give an element of certainty in the short to medium term. Although there was much gnashing of teeth within the industry about EU labelling regulations when they first came in, there is now an acceptance that they are a necessary evil, and a feeling that abandoning them now would be a backwards step. A pragmatic acceptance of current EU laws, which seem to work well, is therefore to be welcomed. Of course, those producers who want to sell their goods in the new 27 member EU will have to abide by EU regulations post-Brexit anyway, so the more that EU and UK laws are in harmony, the simpler it will be. The wider question about whether nutritional labelling of

foods actually works when it comes to encouraging people to have a healthier diet, is rather more up for debate. My own view is that legislation alone cannot effectively change people’s behaviour. We already have the ‘traffic light’ system of labelling for nutritional information, and research repeatedly shows that many consumers are still confused about what is in the foods they buy, particularly processed products where certain sugars and fats naturally occur in the raw materials and are not added. Overcoming that confusion and changing behaviour requires engagement with and education of consumers, and that in turn requires a commitment from farmers and food producers. With so much change on the horizon, the food industry needs certainty in as many areas as possible, so that it can start to plan effectively for the long-term. So the industry will be hoping that in the run up to Brexit and beyond, politicians don’t impose change for change’s sake.

PLEASE NOTE that this article is provided for your information only. Whilst every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy, information contained herein may not be comprehensive and you should not act upon it without seeking professional advice



Monica Galetti -



Monica Galetti



Celebrity chef is sharing her considerable skills with us thanks to her latest cookbook. Sarah Hardy takes a look


FIG 'TARTE FINE�' INGREDIENTS ½ quantity Rough Pu Pastry; frangipane; 12 ripe figs; 50g of butter, melted; 30g of demerara sugar; sprinkling of icing sugar METHOD 1. Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/ Gas 5 2. Roll the pastry out to a rectangle about 3mm thick (setting a small piece of pastry to one side) and put on a baking tray lined with baking parchment. Prick the pastry at intervals using a fork 3. Pipe a thin layer of Frangipane over the pastry, leaving a 2cm border around the edge. Put the reserved piece of pastry on a separate, lined baking tray 4. Cut the figs vertically into thick slices and arrange in neat overlapping layers to cover the pastry, then fold in the edges of the pastry. Brush all over with the melted butter and sprinkle with the sugar, then bake both trays in the oven 20–25 minutes until cooked 5. Take the baked little piece of pastry and crumble finely into a pan with a sprinkling of icing sugar. Cook, stirring, until the sugar has caramelised on the pieces of pastry. Serve the tart warm, sprinkled with the caramelised pastry crumbs, ice cream and honey

serve s 6 peop le

SHE DOESN’T SUFFER fools on the highly popular TV series MasterChef: The Professionals - we’ve all seen her raise her eyebrows and pull a face as the chefs muck up what she considers a vital skill and one that she can pull off with such ease. So it’s no surprise that Monica Galetti’s latest cookbook, simply called The Skills, is packed with instructions on various techniques, from preparing a rack of lamb and jointing a chicken, to making mayonnaise, pasta, meringues and soufflé. The idea is that this knowledge enables you to cook all of the 100-odd recipes featured in her book, from braised artichoke with bacon and gin, to tartare of salmon, roast lamb with peppers and olives, salt caramel chocolate ganache and apricot sabayon. Monica explains that the idea for a book has been ‘several years in the making’ and ‘a real labour of love’. She was born in Samoa, is the eldest of six siblings, and moved to New Zealand when she was aged nine. She moved to Britain almost 15 years ago, working for 12 years with Michel Roux Junior at Le Gavroche in Mayfair, rising to become his senior sous chef - his right hand. It was during this period that she starred, alongside Michel, in MasterChef:The Professional, and gained a whole new bunch of fans for her sometimes harsh critiques! Now Monica, who is aged 40 and married to David the head sommelier at Le Gavroche with one daughter, is concentrating on her latest venture - her own restaurant which is set to open in the capital in the New Year. Called Mere, which means mother in Frenc,h and Mary, her mother’s name, in Samoan, Monica isn’t revealing too much about what she has planned but it will be all about seasonal recipes, and letting ingredients speak for themselves. You can expect a 25-seat bar on the ground floor and a 70-seat dining room in the basement with, as the lady says herself, ‘no gimmicks’!


The Skills by Monica Galetti

(published by Quadrille, £20)


Monica Galetti -


Serves One

CRAB and MELON SALAD INGREDIENTS 200g piece of watermelon; 200g piece of cantaloupe melon; olive oil, for cooking; a knob of butter; 100g of freshly picked cooked white crab meat; 1tsp of chopped red chilli; tbsp of chopped chives; Tabasco sauce, to taste; 1 lime, halved; 1 very ripe avocado; 1 small fennel bulb, with fronds reserved; 1 small wholemeal loaf, thinly sliced; 1 preserved lemon, cut into small dice; sea salt and freshly ground black pepper METHOD 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4 2. Pan-fry both melon pieces with a little olive oil and the butter, then set aside to cool and cut into cubes 3. Mix the crab meat with the chilli, chives, and Tabasco and lime juice to taste 4. Blitz the avocado with a few drops of Tabasco, lime juice and some salt and pepper, until smooth. Thinly slice the fennel and place in a bowl of ice cubes with a little water added. Toast the bread slices in the oven until crisp 5. To serve, drain and dry the fennel slices and serve the crab with avocado purée and some preserved lemon, the melon cubes, fennel and toast. Lightly season and drizzle with a little olive oil



INGREDIENTS 1 whole partridge, plucked and innards removed; 2 rashers of thin, streaky bacon; olive oil, for cooking and dressing; two knobs of salted butter; 3 Brussels sprouts, leaves separated; 4 cooked chestnuts, thinly sliced; sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Chestnut Purée 125g of cooked chestnuts; 1tsp of butter; 250ml of chicken stock Pears and Sauce 2 small Conference pears; 400ml of red wine; zest and juice of 1 orange; 80g of granulated sugar; 1 cinnamon stick; 4 cloves; 2 cardamom pods; 1 star anise; 200ml of brown chicken stock; knob of butter Crumble 1 tbsp of crushed pistachios; 1 tbsp of chopped cooked chestnuts; 1 tbsp of crushed feuilletine biscuits

PARTRIDGE in a PEAR TREE METHOD 1. Remove the legs and wings from the partridge, keeping the breast on the bone. Wrap the bacon around a stainless steel baking rod or mould and cook, turning, under a hot grill until crispy; set aside 2. For the chestnut purée, put the chestnuts and butter in a pan and cook until coloured, then add the stock and simmer for about 8–10 minutes. Blitz until smooth, adding extra stock if needed. Keep warm 3. For the pears and sauce, peel the pears and place in a small pan with the wine, orange zest and juice, sugar, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom and star anise. Bring to the boil, then simmer until cooked through, about 20 minutes. Leave to cool in the liquid, then remove and reserve the pears. Strain 200ml of the cooking liquid into a pan and reduce to a thick consistency. Add the stock and reduce to a good sauce consistency, then remove from the heat and whisk in the butter. Set aside


and keep warm 4. Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. Heat a non-stick ovenproof frying pan and drizzle in a little olive oil. Place the partridge skin-side down in the pan to colour. Turn over and sear on the other side. Add a knob of butter and transfer to the oven for 5–6 minutes, then remove and leave to rest for 5 minutes before removing the breasts from the pigeon 6. Pour out the cooking butter from the pan, add a fresh knob of butter and heat until just bubbling. Add the crumble ingredients to the pan and stir into the butter. Spoon over the partridge breasts 7. Quickly toss the sprout leaves in a little oil or butter seasoned with salt and pepper 8. To serve, cut the pears into pieces your preferred size. Place some chestnut purée on a plate. Place the partridge, bacon and the pears on the purée and sprinkle the sprout leaves over and around. Finish with a drizzle of the sauce, serving the rest on the side

se rv es 4 pe op le


let's get cooking

As we approach the party season, we have the perfect retro offering for you, plus Fortnum and Mason has brought out its first ever cookbook

70s DINNER PARTY by Anna Pallai ÂŁ9.99

Anna Pallai was brought up on 1970s stalwarts of stuffed peppers, meatloaf and platters of slightly greying hardboiled eggs. When she rediscovered her mother's grease-stained 70s cookbooks, she knew she needed to share them with the world, and so the hit Twitter account @70s_Party was born. Harking back to a simpler preInstagram, pre-clean-eating era, when the only concern for your dinner party was whether your aspic would set in time, this is a joyful celebration of food that can give you gout just by looking at it. Covering all the essentials, from starters through to desserts, dinner party etiquette (just how does one start to eat a swan fashioned from a hardboiled egg) and the dreaded 'foreign' food, there's no potatofashioned-as-a-stone left unturned.

And don't forget...

THE JARROLD’S autumn Literary Lunch is set for November 9. Guest authors include: General Sir Richard Dannatt (Boots on the Ground: Britain & Her Army Since 1945), Clare Harvey (The English Agent), and DJ Taylor (The New Book of Snobs). Details of the event are available online at www.jarrold.co.uk



by Tom Parker-Bowles £30

by Mary Berry £20

Fortnum & Mason is a store that has fuelled the tide of British history, and fed the appetites of many grand folk such as kings and queens, maharajahs and czars, emperors, dukes and divas alike. It's a grocery emporium and an unsurprisingly popular tourist destination. Fortnum & Mason's first cookbook certainly looks the part and is written by chef and food writer, Tom Parker-Bowles. There are delicious sweet and savoury snacks such as Florentine Biscuits and Scotch Eggs. For a chilly winter's day, choose from the flavoursome Chicken with Squash or Fish Pie followed by a steaming Treacle Tart. Now is that with ice cream or custard?

This is the paperback edition of the Perfect Step by Step which was first published in hardback in 2014 and comes with a lovely tote bag to take to the shops. For every delicious recipe Mary identifies the crucial part to get right, to guarantee best results, and then demonstrates it with simple step-by-step instructions. She reveals the secret to crisp pork crackling and melt-in-the-mouth salmon, how to bake a feather-light cake, and the key to a super-crunchy crumble topping.

by Allegra McEvedy £19.99



This is not a slow cooker book, but a book about slow cooking. Cooking low and slow transforms tougher cuts of meat, like brisket and oxtail, into sumptuous stews and meltingly tender roasts. But this isn't just a book about how to get the most out of your cheaper cuts of meat - there is plenty of fish and seafood, legumes (who love a slow cook) and a fine representation of veg. With the slow element covered and cooking away, Allegra has also given each recipe two 'quicks': speedy side dishes that can be created in a matter of minutes, carefully selected and developed to perfectly complement the slow-cooked component of the meal. With recipes like Szechuan and Black Treacle Crusted Smoked Belly, Mexican Mole, Chickpea and Chard Stew and Sea Salt Meringues with Dulce de Leche, this book will inspire slow cooking devotees and novices alike.

As the weather turns chillier, whether eaten fresh or saved as freezer fodder for a rainy day, a bowl of hot soup is just the ticket. Great British Soups is full of ideas for using local ingredients and regional flavours to create hearty, healthy soups. From garden-fresh spring soups such as Shropshire Pea, Mint and Spinach to the warming delights of Welsh Leek and Caerphilly Cheese, perfect for crisp winter evenings, these recipes combine the rich heritage of Britain's past with the vibrant blend of cuisines that makes up British food today.



Ple ase note that the Norfolk Table: 's One County, Twenty Chefs from October issue is priced at £19.95

Competition E TO




Feast Norfolk has teamed up with Delia’s Canary Catering to offer one lucky reader the chance to win four tickets to the New Year’s Eve Ball at Carrow Road – worth a total of £300! VISIT

HOW DO YOU FANCY getting 2017 off to a great start at a New Year’s Eve Ball at Carrow Road, with the Joe Ringer Band? The black tie event for over 18’s will take place at the Top of the Terrace, one of the largest function rooms at Norwich City Football Club, and situated at the top of the Barclay Stand. Arrive to glitz, glamour and a glass of fizz at 7pm before enjoying a magnificent fivecourse meal. Then try your luck on the casino tables or see the New Year in with the Joe Ringer Band, until the countdown arrives.

www.deliascanar ycatering.co.uk

The Joe Ringer Band is Norfolk’s premier party band. From hits of the 60s to today’s chart toppers, the six-piece band cater for all ages and tastes, and guarantee a full dancefloor from start to finish. They can move seamlessly from The Beatles and Stevie Wonder to Bon Jovi and Bruno Mars, guaranteeing the party never stops! By midnight it will be time to celebrate the New Year in style with a glass of Champagne before dancing the night away (until 2am) on this unforgettable occasion.



To enter our competition, simply answer the following question:

Where will the New Year’s Eve Ball at Carrow Road take place? Send your answer, your name, address and a daytime telephone number to competitions@ feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk You can also enter by visiting our Facebook page and simply liking and sharing the competition. The competition runs until November 30 2016. It is open to those aged 18 and over and normal Feast Norfolk rules apply. The editor’s decision is final.

R e ade r R e ci p e IT'S




Reader Sue Knot t from Kessingland offers us a classic Thai red curry to warm up those chilly evenings INGREDIENTS 1tbsp of vegetable oil; 1 180grm jar of Thai red curry paste; 400g of diced chicken breast; 1 can of coconut milk (not light); 2 sticks of lemongrass; dried Kaffir lime leaves; 1 red chilli of medium strength, finely chopped; 150g of mange tout, halved; 150g of baby sweetcorn, halved; 150g of green beans, cut into thin slices; 1 red, 1 yellow and 1 orange pepper, all cut into thin slices; 6 spring onions, finely chopped

METHOD Heat the oil in a deep frying pan. Add the paste and gently fry for 2 minutes. Add the diced chicken and stir to coat and cook until nearly cooked 5 to 7 minutes. Add the coconut milk, and heat gently whilst stirring. Cut the end off the lemongrass and outer skin and crush, then crumble the lime leaves and add both to pan. Cook for a further 10 minutes. This could now be left until around 10 /15 minutes before you wish to eat. Then add the chilli, mange tout, baby sweetcorn, peppers and green beans. Cook until al dente. Sprinkle the spring onions on top and serve with jasmine rice and a cool glass of Sauvignon Blanc

Serves Four www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk


Switz erl and -




Mar k Nic ho lls he ads to Sw itz er la nd to ex pl ore

L ausan ne



.ch). Mark Nicho lls staye d at the Hote l Roya l Savoy in Lausa nne (www.roya lsavoy ion.ch For more infor matio n visit: www.lausa nne-t ouris me.ch or www.lake-genev a-reg


A GLASS OF WINE and artisan breads, cheeses and meats, Lausanne offers it in Olympian proportions. A truly metropolitan city, with the IOC headquarters on the shores of Lake Geneva, its food and drink reflect this. In addition, its hotels offer sumptuous accommodation and fine dining, yet with an emphasis on wellness, too. And, never far away, are the mountains. The charm of Lausanne, Switzerland’s fourth biggest city with 340,000 inhabitants, and set on three hills topped with grand churches, is that it can be explored and enjoyed on foot. Whether that is absorbing its Olympic history with a visit to the IOC headquarters and its fascinating museum, or the vibrancy of the Flon district with its bars, restaurants and cafes, it is a city where grand architecture dovetails with modern designs and five-star hotels. Flon is dominated by the arches of the Grand Pont - a bridge dating from 1840 which crossed the River Flon, which has long-since been canalised but still runs hidden beneath the square. The area truly comes to life at night and in one of the side streets, the previous evening, we had discovered a gem of a restaurant. The hugelypopular Eat Me brings together ‘dishes to share’ from around the world and is an eaterie tailormade for, and perhaps reflective of, the multicultural nature of the Olympic city, where 44 per cent of the population is non-Swiss. My favourite was the Togo Mogo, chicken breast, spicy Togolese scotch bonnet and tomato sauce and cassava fries and the Ko Phan Ngam of calamari stuffed with shrimp served with peppers and kaffir on a bed of delicious noodles. Not so many years ago though, Flon - a former industrial area - was in a state of dereliction before it underwent a revival and regeneration. ‘It is now the funky happening place of Lausanne with clubs, bars, restaurants, cinema and hotels but with buildings preserving or replicating the original warehouse architecture,’ explains our guide Hilary Bales, as we begin our walking tour through the pedestrianised shopping area. It is Saturday and the street market – which also runs on a Wednesday – is alive with shoppers choosing meats and cheeses, fruit, vegetables and the most delicious breads. Our wanderings take us to Place du Riponne

Switz erl and -

where we cut through the former university, now a collection of small museums, and emerge near the Cathedral of Notre Dame, consecrated in 1295. On an autumnal morning, the view is impressive across a city chosen by Pierre du Coubertin in 1915 as a neutral location to sustain the fledgling Olympic movement. He is also buried here - apart from his embalmed heart which is appropriately interred in ancient Olympia in Greece. Fountains, some 300 of them, nourished by the hidden waters of Lausanne, are all around but as we head down from the cathedral we choose a different succour, pausing for thick hot chocolate at Le Barbare and then meander on to buy more chocolate at Blondel - which has been selling confectionery since 1850 - as we are lured back to the splendour of our hotel, the five-star Royal Savoy. It opened its doors again in November 2015 after a five-year refurbishment programme costing CHF100 million but the original building dates from 1909 and has long been an iconic landmark



establishment in Lausanne, renowned for its architecture and unrivalled hospitality, attracting celebrities and royalty alike. For a number of years, the Royal Family of Spain lived in exile at the Savoy, while the King of Thailand was also a regular visitor. Other famed guests have included Olympic 100m and long jump gold medallist Carl Lewis and Brazilian football legend Pelé. Built in the Art Nouveau style, with 196 rooms, and a 7th-floor terrace with a spectacular 360 degree panorama across Lausanne, the hotel also offers a unique wellness experience. The Royal Spa has an indoor and outdoor swimming pool, sauna, hammam and steam rooms, and eight treatment rooms for a range of massages and therapies.

La Brasserie du Royal serves fine food and wines and that range of wines is never far away in the Canton of Vaud, with many produced from the family-owned vineyards that cascade down to the Lake Geneva shoreline in orderly rows. A couple of stops along the railway line from Lausanne towards Montreux is the Domaine Croix Duplex at Grandvaux, run by the Vogel family since 1929. Maude Vogel explained that it was started by her grandfather Samuel with three hectares of vines but now covers 30 hectares of 13 different types of grape, including the prevalent Chasselas, to produce 300,000 bottles of wine a year. Popular among the 26 wines in the family range are the whites of Les Chapelles and Calamin, with their rich mineral and floral flavours; the Oiel de Perdrix Rose; the Croix Duplex Piot Noir with its fruity, blueberry flavour; and Le Message, a blend of four different grapes. Sampled with gruyere and tomme vaudois cheeses, and a range of meats with saucisson, bacon, ham and dried beef – all produce displayed on Lausanne’s market stalls - it was a perfect lunch, and a perfect way to savour the flavour of Lausanne and the Lake Geneva region.






Feast Norfolk has teamed up with John Lewis to offer one lucky reader the chance to win a Smarter Coffee Machine worth £179.99 HOW DO YOU fancy a coffee machine so smart that you can control it by an app on your phone? Now, you can seamlessly start the day the ‘Smarter’ way with a Wifi controlled coffee machine. British company Smarter, which specialises in developing products for connected living, launched the much-anticipated Smarter Coffee Machine (RRP £179.99) less than a year ago, and the feature rich, Wifi enabled machine, can be controlled remotely via the Smarter app on iOS and Android devices. With 71 per cent of all of the 225 million cups of coffee being devoured in the home, this clever machine is a great addition to any home or office. Ideal for coffee connoisseurs or those that just need a morning pick me up, the Smarter Coffee Machine allows individuals to

quickly adjust the strength of their coffee via the app and then keep their drink hot for up to 35 minutes via the ‘Keep Warm Mode’. The ‘Water Level Mode’ offers live updates on how much water is in the machine and can alert users if it needs to be refilled. Users can also select the number of cups to be brewed, from one to 12, so there will never be a wasted bean. The thoughtful ‘Wake Up Mode’ and ‘Home Mode’ automatically boil the water and grind the beans to boost a coffee lover’s day when they most need it. Schedules can also be set throughout the day to fit around busy lifestyles and routines for when a little caffeine hit is needed. All Smarter electrical products are covered by a 24-month warranty. And the best part of all this? We’re giving one away! If you don’t win,


the Smarter Coffee Machine is available to buy from your local John Lewis, or online, www.johnlewis. com


To enter our competition, simply answer the following question:

The Smarter Coffee Machine can brew up to how many cups of coffee? Send your answer, your name, address and a daytime telephone number to competitions@ feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk You can also enter by visiting our Facebook page and simply liking and sharing the competition. The competition runs until November 30 2016. It is open to those aged 18 and over and normal Feast Norfolk rules apply. The editor’s decision is final.

Congham Hall -



aural t RRe trea The quiet sophistication of Congham Hall Hotel in West Norfolk is a real tonic for the mind and body, says Sarah Hardy as she spends the night at this Georgian gem





URVEYING the glorious parkland, the mature trees, sweeping lawns and somewhat foreboding clouds, from the safety of my outdoor hot tub was a wonderful moment during my ultra relaxing stay at the family-run Congham Hall Hotel. The hotel, all Georgian charm, is not far from the royal estate at Sandringham and thus near the coast, yet gently nestles in its own 30 acres which include an impressive herb garden, orchard and kitchen garden, plus formal gardens around the house which are a joy to explore. Think of a classic English garden and you won’t be disappointed, with old fashioned roses, lavenders, box hedging and around 400 varieties of herbs. It is now run by Nicholas Dickinson and Ruth Gallop, both experienced hoteliers who, since 2012, have been breathing new life into the 26-bedroom property. Back in the day, it was a popular spot, with Trevor and Christine Forecast in charge. They sold it to a hotel chain who added new bedrooms and a spa, complete with pool, but went bust, so thank goodness for Nicholas and Ruth who are determined to create a true country house hotel. It is immediately appealing, with a sweeping drive taking you to a pretty pillared portico and into a large hall with bold Cley-based Rachel Lockwood paintings and a row of boots to borrow to go exploring! Many original features remain including fireplaces, huge windows and high ceilings, and there’s that classic mix of muted colours on the walls with splashes of bold prints to add interest on soft furnishings. This country house feel prevails throughout: there’s the library, with its book-lined shelves, which is the perfect spot for after dinner coffee while the sitting room, with numerous sofas and armchairs, is the place to read the newspaper or simply sit and chat. The bar is next to the large and airy dining room, all white tablecloths, silver cutlery and, as a lovely little touch, pots of fresh herbs instead of flowers. Indeed, do look out for the floral displays throughout the hotel, using blooms from the garden, as they are quite something. The bedrooms in the main house have plenty of character while the newer garden rooms have their own private terraces which cascade onto the gardens. Our room, Tansy, was a delight, with plenty of room, gorgeous bed linen and a terrace overlooking the mint walk. It is in the garden that you’ll find The Secret Garden Spa where several treatments and therapies are available, including massages, facials, wraps and all the usual favourites such as manicures and pedicures. I opted for a ‘quick fix’ massage, at 45 minutes, with the therapist tackling my knotty shoulders to great effect. Using an oil infused with rosemary, nutmeg and seagrass, various aches and pains were eased away in a candle-lit room - there are four treatment rooms in all. The spa also boasts a 12m pool, sauna and steam rooms and lots of those lovely loungers that just call your name. They are positioned both inside and

Congham Hall -



outside on a large deck, where you’ll also find that rather special hot tub, which is just the place to idle away a good part of your day! There’s also an allweather tennis court on site, and numerous walks to tackle. Four-legged friends are very welcome. Dining is an important part of any stay at Congham and the menu boasts much produce from the garden especially, at this time of year, squashes and root vegetables. Dishes are complex, with great attention to detail, and are beautifully presented. Our evening started with us posing on high bar stools, me sipping a Black Shuck gin and Himself having a pint, and eyeing up the menu. We moved through to the restaurant, which holds two AA Rosettes, where I started with homemade tomato soup which oozed flavour, probably as the tomatoes were from the garden, and moved onto a goodly portion of Norfolk beef, with a pink peppercorn sauce and a few more trimmings. It was lovely: filling and cooked beautifully. I also managed a watercress and Binham Blue salad, which was a great extra. Sir chose a chilli crayfish dish as a starter, which had a gentle heat, with added lime providing a bit of citrus hit, too. He opted for salmon fillet as a main course, with a pea purée, baby leeks and crushed new potatoes, with a crayfish sauce providing a final flourish. We both managed desserts, with me trying a plum and frangipane tart and him a dark chocolate brownie. Both were just right and a lovely sweet end to our fine dining experience - service was just on the right side of courteous and attentive. Congham is something a little special, a little different for Norfolk. It’s hard to put your figure on what it is exactly. I guess we’d all be millionaires if we could analyse ‘it’. But Congham has 'it' by the bucketload!

Autumnal Vegetables -



JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES are great as windbreaks and screening in the garden or on the allotment due to their large structure, with pretty yellow flowers standing tall at the top. Obscurely, this vegetable is not linked to Jerusalem and neither is it an artichoke, being more closely related to the sunflower. Harvested for their roots (tubers), they are full of dietary fibre, antioxidant vitamins, potassium and iron. November is the time to start harvesting them after a long growing season, so dig them up just like potatoes.




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, ation and advice For more inform .uk .co ng ni de ar aryg visit www.ellenm

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AS A NATIVE TO North America and found in sunny Florida and Texas, you will get a real taste of the USA when growing these. From 1616 they were enjoyed in France before being recognised around the world, although it’s still an underrated vegetable, especially in the kitchen garden. Inexpensive and easy to both grow and cook, they look similar to ginger roots and can be eaten raw or cooked, although too much can cause gastric pain. So enjoy them in small amounts and they can really add something special to dishes. 'Fuseau' is a large cultivar which is particularly easy to peel, making cooking a lot quicker.

How to grow

GROW Plant the tubers out in spring as they do need a long growing season and make sure the soil is free draining. They need to be placed about 10 to 15cm deep and about 30cm apart. If you are short of space, growing them in large pots or containers is equally as good, in fact it will stop them becoming unruly. CARE As they begin to grow, rake up the soil to ensure they don't fall over. They can be staked to prevent them blowing over in windy conditions or they can be cut back to about 1.5m during midsummer. They need little water, unless the weather is particularly dry. Other than that, they are very easy to grow and care for. HARVEST During autumn you will notice the leaves starting to turn yellow which means it is time to prune them back and start harvesting. Cut the stems right back to about 8 to 10cm above the soil and lay all of the cut foliage over the plants. This helps to keep the soil warm in frosty weather and makes digging up the tubers much easier.





Jerusalem artichokes can be used in many winter warming dishes from soups to stews but they are best cooked in a simple way, just like potatoes, so a few roasted for Sunday dinner is the perfect way to enjoy them. They are both sweetly flavoured and a little bit nutty which suits many herbs to taste

Serves Four

INGREDIENTS 600g of artichokes; 3tbsp of olive oil; 4 cloves of sliced garlic; handful of fresh thyme or herbs to suit (bay leaves or sage); pinch of sea salt METHOD 1. Peel and cut into chunks for roasting and remove any brown spots 2. Add them to the oil in a pan and gently fry until they are golden on each side 3. Add in the thyme (bay leaves and sage can be added or swapped in), plus the thinly sliced garlic and leave on a gentle heat just for a few minutes 4. Move the mix onto a tray, ensuring they are all well covered in the oil along with the herbs and garlic 5. Sprinkle with the salt and roast in the oven for about 35 minutes

J am e s G rah am -





James takes orders until mid December, visit www.peeles-blackturkeys.co.uk


NORFOLK FARMER JAMES GRAHAM TELLS US ABOUT PEELE’S NORFOLK BLACK TURKEYS - A FIRM FAVOURITE FOR CHRISTMAS LUNCH Explain a little bit about yourself My name in James Graham and I farm around 400 acres, over two farms, near Dereham. We are a mixed farm but I am best known for our rare breed turkeys, the Norfolk Black. I am the fourth generation to farm; we started in the 1850s in Lincolnshire as general poultry dealers, and moved to Norfolk in the 1880s. We started near Wymondham and my grandparents, Frank and Gertrude Peele, downsized to Rookery Farm, Thuxton, near Dereham, in 1932 where we are still today. And what about your business? In the 1950s, farmers were starting to favour the hybrid white birds but my grandfather, Frank, didn’t rate them. He didn’t like the idea of mass produced birds so continued to use traditional farming methods. Now we have an established breeding programme that doesn’t change so we have one of the last sizeable flocks of Norfolk Blacks. They are free range so roam freely, mate naturally and look like they should,

with long legs. Our breeding flock is about 300 birds and each Christmas we sell around 2000, with those at 7/8kg the most popular as they serve about 10 people. What do you do on Christmas Day dare we ask if it involves turkey? Yes, most definitely. It wouldn’t be right if I didn’t sit down to a bird although it is usually whatever we have left! There is my partner, Claire, her parents and my mother, Pat. We have an Aga and sit down to a fairly traditional meal, with all the trimmings. This year we are having some stuffing made, so I will enjoy that, too. What would you be doing if you weren’t running the family business? That’s a hard one as I do love agriculture, so I would stay involved in it in some way. Maybe in education? I enjoy giving talks and tours about what we do here, explaining our traditional methods and why they still work well - and are kinder to the environment.


What is the best way to cook one of your turkeys? As we hang them for a minimum of seven to 10 days, you don’t need to overcook them. I usually say about 10-12 minutes per pound. Baste them twice, and brown them off for the last 30 minutes. You don’t have to do too much. What happens for the rest of the year? We’re a mixed farm, with beef and arable, so I’m busy all year round. I’m drilling and ploughing at this very moment and we had a new calf born this morning. We are again very traditional in our methods as we use what we grow - the corn feeds the cows and turkeys, for example. What’s this Harry Potter connection? Ha! The Norfolk Blacks have marvellous feathers: long, shiny and very extravagant. As we hand pluck the birds, we can pick the very best ones. They make quill pens with them, which are sold in some of the Harry Potter shops. We also sell them to costume designers as they are great for period dresses and hats.

From bean to the cup

For over 100 years Melitta ® has stood for coffee expertise. We are the only company on the market to guarantee the best in coffee enjoyment consistently from the bean to the cup. However, the popularity of our products beyond the borders of Europe is no reason for complacency. Continuous development and innovation is close to our heart, to offer you innovative products to meet your needs.

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Melitta founded by Melitta Bentz in 1908, was the inventor of the coffee filter paper and the first to market the electric coffee maker. Today, the brand is a world leader in coffee enjoyment. The UK coffee segment has exploded in recent years, with a huge drive into freshly prepared coffee. At Melitta, we have the passion and expertise throughout the entire process of bean to cup, giving authority to a world-recognised brand with true heritage and innovation.


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