Research book (Chapter 7-9)

B a c k g r o u n d

Early in the year 1400 AD, architects Filippo Brunelleschi and Donatello journey to Rome and commit themselves to the study of classical sculpture and architecture. They return to Florence and put what they've learned to use. Masaccio, the first Renaissance painter, incorporated logical ideas into his remarkably lifelike creations. Successful painters never stop learning about anatomy and aerial perspective. From 1434 to 1492, as Florence develops, it becomes a hub for Renaissance learning and art. Most of the well-known artists of this era, including Lorenzo Ghiberti, Donatello, Sandro Botticelli, and Brunelleschi, receive financial support from the Medici family. Since they had operations in all of the major cities throughout Europe, the Medici imported oil paintings from Northern Renaissance Europe to Italy.

Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, and Raphael are regarded as the three most important artists of the Italian High Renaissance, which lasted from 1490 to 1526. High Renaissance architecture was developed at this time by Donato Bramante, and its columns and domes are reminiscent of early Classical temple architecture. The enormous St. Peter's Basilica in Rome is one of his creations. The most well-known composers from this time period include Josquin des Prez and Giovanni Pierluigi da Palestrina.

Womenswear

Women wore gowns with a fuller skirt that hung to their ankles and a tight-fitting bodice. Dresses with necklines that exposed a lot of skin were acceptable and fashionable.

The upper classes wore bulky, heavy clothing that limited their freedom of movement. Lower class women wore much looser clothing to allow for more freedom of movement and because they did not have servants to assist them with their attire.

All women's attire began with stockings, which were typically knee-high, and a shift, a loose, linen smock worn to protect the gown. Petticoats were added to gowns to add volume and provide warmth for the wearer.

menswear

A man's outfit would begin with a shirt, similar to a dress shirt today, but without the collar and cuffs we are accustomed to seeing. Lace collars and cuffs were occasionally used instead. A doublet, or fitted top, would be worn over this, followed by a jerkin, or tight-fitting jacket. Workingclass men tend to dress simply and comfortably, much like their female counterparts do. Men would wear hose on their legs rather than trousers as we know them today.

Doublets shrunk during Henry VIII's reign, leaving a gap between them and the upper hose. The cod piece, which has been around since the middle ages, became popular again in order to maintain modesty.

Henry VIII used his codpiece to store money. The cod piece was originally a cloth or animal skin pocket in the form of hose or trouser, but it is now made of a variety of materials and frequently padded. Once more, compared to the average Englishman, these additions to the attire would be more typical of someone from the upper class or someone who attends court (Kosir).

Jewellery

The pendant, which replaced the mediaeval brooch as the most popular piece of jewellery, was the most important piece of Renaissance jewellery. It was worn on a necklace, long gold chain, fastened to clothing, or on a chain worn on the girdle.

Gold, precious stones, and pearls were frequently used in Renaissance jewellery, which also frequently featured coloured with enamels as decorations.

The numerous wearable decorative items created during the Renaissance era, which lasted from the 14th to the 17th century, are collectively referred to as Renaissance jewellery. In the Renaissance, jewellery was regarded as a form of fine art, and its owners placed a high value on it for reasons other than to flaunt their wealth.

Although royals would have access to their own court jeweller who could create amazing custom jewellery pieces to fit their demands, jewellery during this era was not only reserved for the highest classes of society.

Hairstyles

White lead, mercury, and vermilion powders were used in Renaissance cosmetics (derived from cinnabar).

Pallor was highly prized by women at this time. Women who lacked the desired pale ivory skin used white lead powder to make up for their lack of it.

Also remaining fair, the cheeks required a slight glow. The white lead powder would occasionally include mercury before being applied to the cheek area to produce the desired result.

Additionally, some Renaissance women used white lead powder that had been mixed with mercury to emphasise their bust lines.

Women frequently pumiced their foreheads because high, wide foreheads were prized. This was done to cover up any signs of hairline tweezing and to make sure that no lines disturbed their brow's calmness. Eyebrows needed to stay light and airy, so they were frequently plucked, tweezed, or even cut to make sure they weren't too pronounced. They had thin, short eyelashes.

Vermilion was frequently applied to the lips, which could be left untinted or tinted to have a full, distinct, and luscious red colour. The lips, which could be left natural or tinted to a full, clearly defined, and luscious red colour, were frequently painted with vermilion.

r o o m i n g & S t y l i n g

Leonardo da vinci

At a time when other adult men wore long clothing, Leonardo decided to dress in a short tunic, hose, dark purple stockings, red satin coat, and pink hat.

Henry VIII

From 22 April 1509 to his death in 1547, Henry VIII, one of the most well-known kings in English history, reigned over England. He also established the Church of England and the Royal Navy.

u s e s / i c o n s

Henry VIII wore clothing in the hues of crimson, gold, and black. Typically made of silk or velvet, Henry wore hose. He would also put on a doublet, lined with purple satin and gold fabric, and made of blue and red velvet. He also sported a red velvet cap.

Sarah Burton, Alexander McQueen Autumn Winter 2013 Ready-to-Wear

n f l u e n c e

With this collection, Alexander McQueen skillfully blended Elizabethan, Victorian, and contemporary styles to present a succinct but opulent recreation of British history.

The collection's debut piece, a stunning white broderie anglaise dress with leg-of-mutton sleeves, was covered in a tiered white organza dress.

B a c k g r o u n d

Baroque period (1600-1730)

The Baroque movement began to take shape in Rome, Italy, in the 17th century as a reaction to Mannerism, which dominated the late Italian Renaissance. Because it wished to revive the traditions and spirituality it had fostered during the Counter Reformation, the Catholic Church supported this movement.

The expansion of this new creative movement was encouraged by European tyrants and the Catholic Church. Numerous buildings, paintings, and sculptures were commissioned by the Royal Courts of Italy, Spain, France, and other nations.

These absolute kings' main objectives in Europe were to strengthen their political hegemony and exalt their own omnipotence. In a few of Rembrandt and Rubens' works, the intention is to replace the religious themes with ones that are more naturalistic and realistic.

In the 17th century, these various currents gave rise to the Baroque style, which spread across Europe before being replaced by the Rococo movement.

Rococo Period (1730 -1780)

In response to the more formal and geometric elements of the Louis XIV style, the Rococo movement emerged in France in the 1730s. The phrase "Rocaille style" or "Rocaille fashion" was used to describe it. Before it quickly spread to other parts of Europe, it specifically affected northern Italy, Austria, southern Germany, Central Europe, and Russia. It also had an impact on other forms of art, including sculpture, furniture, cutlery, glassware, painting, music, and theatre. In order to study changes in archaeology and art, Madame de Pompadour's nephew Abel-François Poisson de Vandières travelled to Italy in 1750.

Famous thinkers of the day, including Diderot, an art critic, and philosopher Voltaire, criticised the Rococo style for being flimsy and decadent.

Due to these developments and the escalating revolutionary fervour in France by 1780, the Rococo style had lost favour.

B a c k g r o u n d

e n s w e a r

Baroque style

In the early Baroque era, men were the first to wear the cavalier style. It displays a much more lax dress code and copies current women's fashion trends. This style rejected lace and slung capes over one shoulder. Doublets, which had sleeves that ended below the elbow and hit at the waist, were the first garments of the era.

The typically plain breeches had been changed into elaborately ornamented pants that hung just below the knee.

Men frequently wear a waistcoat underneath their jackets. The vests or waistcoats were usually made of expensive fabric and stood out from the rest of the outfit.

Rococo style

Men can pick from a variety of waistcoats, breeches, and jackets though. In comparison to earlier times, men's clothing was a little bit more constricting at this time. During this time, the waistcoat was very in, especially those with lace or intricate embroidery. wer half of the men's clothing could be ed to breeches that ended just above the from higher social classes tended to dress gantly and with more elaborate details.

Baroque Style

The women wore clothing that fit more loosely. Too tight corsets were replaced by flexible clothing. Its definition included organic, curved shapes, flowing lines, gold filigree, and vibrant colours.

Women's skirts were layered and cushioned at the hips to give them a voluminous, flowing appearance. They also wore flowing lace collars. The manteau, an overskirt with an open front and expanded fabric at the back, was then worn with the skirts.

Women's high waistlines were common in this era, and it became very fashionable to show off the neckline, especially the region around the collarbone. The sleeves were long and fitted closely.

Rococo Style

As the women's bodies changed, they began donning panniers beneath their skirts, giving the impression that their hips were expanding. Women frequently wore corsets that were tight-fitting and had low necklines.

Panniers, or broad sideways-extended hoops worn underneath the skirt, became common. The Watteau dress featured a long skirt, a loose back that blended into it, and a fitted bodice.

W o m e n s w e a r

J e w e l l e r y

Between 1600 and 1775, jewellers began creating more distinctive works of art using materials like pearls and intensely coloured gemstones instead of making jewellery with coloured enamel.

Big necklaces, earrings, rings, bracelets, and tiaras were common bold jewellery accessories

worn during this time.

The bow brooch, a piece of jewellery that was once used to fasten a gem to clothing, is now a typical design component. made of precious metal and encrusted with diamonds, pearls, and enamel.

Men Hairstyles

One of the more popular hairstyles for men's wigs was the cadogan, which has horizontal rolls over the ears and frequently secures loose hair at the nape of the neck.

The men's hats had wider brims than ever before and were worn casually on one side of the head.

Women Hairstyles

The upper classes and nobility started to wear their hair in bigger, higher styles that were frequently combed over a frame. With a bonnet or kerchief, women wore their hair in tight, powdered curls. These had lace, ribbons, and other embellishments on them and were dusted a soft blue or off-white colour. Women were frequently seen wearing feathered hats and accessorising with big ribbon bows. Wig powder with scents of orange flower, lavender, or orris root was created.

r o o m i n g & S t y l i n g

u s e s / i c o n s

Louis xiv France was ruled by Louis XIV, also referred to as Louis the Great or the Sun King, during one of its most illustrious eras. He continues to be regarded as the perfect example of absolute monarchy in classical times. Additionally, he was the last member of the Bourbon family to reign over France prior to the French Revolution. He wore a habillé, which was a habit and was an ostentatious velvet or silk coat. He wore his coronation gown, which was embroidered with the royal fleur de lys, along with other essentials of Baroque attire like the cravat, red shoes, and wig.

Madame de pompadour

Madame de Pompadour is dressed in a Robe a la Francaise, also known as a sacque, sack-back, or Watteau gown. Paniers, which are large side hoops, were worn with these dresses.

Olivier Rousteing's Balmain Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear collection.

This collection gives this more refined fabric a sense of refinement and luxury through the use of golds, silvers, and purples.

This collection of objects decorated in the baroque style can be viewed in a variety of ways. Please describe how you intend to incorporate this trend into your fall wardrobe.

N F L U E N C E

B a c k g r o u n d

French Revolution Period (1789-1799)

The French Revolution began in 1789 and continued until 1794. King Louis XVI needed to raise more money but was unable to do so when he called the Estates General. Instead, it turned into a demonstration against the French government.

On July 14, 1789, the people of Paris stormed the Bastille castle because they were starving due to poor harvests, angry about their lives, and displeased with their king and government.

In October 1789, King Louis and his family moved from Versailles to Paris. He tried to leave in 1791 but was stopped and forced to accept a new form of government.

From October 1791 to September 1792, a "legislative assembly" served as the monarch's replacement; following that, the "National Convention" assumed power.

The execution of Louis XVI took place on January 21, 1793. Over the following six weeks, 1,400 people who were considered potential enemies of the Republic were executed in Paris. Since many of the same ideas influenced both the American Revolution and the Declaration of Independence, many historians now view the French Revolution as a turning point in the history of both North America and Europe.

Numerous novel occurrences took place, including the fall of the monarchy, social changes brought on by the middle class' emergence, and the rise of nationalism.

Romanticism Period (1798-1837)

The French Revolution, which had a profound social impact on Europe in 1789, is credited with sparking the beginning of romanticism. In contrast to the dominance of Reason and Rationality during Neoclassicism, this new movement sought to emphasise the emotions and the irrational world of the artist and of nature. It was founded on the same principles of liberty, fraternity, and legality.

The Second Generation of Romantic Poets: Following Blake, Coleridge, and Wordsworth, who each carried on the Romantic tradition of their predecessors, a new generation of poets emerged. John Keats, one of these poets who is still among the most well-liked of all of them, is one of them who is still read and studied today. Throughout the Romantic Era, the book grew in popularity and was one of the primary of entertainment for middle-class people. Authors began to their writing in an effort to appeal to this readership. The r success of female authors during the Romantic Period served ecursor to their prominence in the Victorian era. The most wellfemale author at the time was Jane Austen.

cline of Romanticism: The European Romantic Movement migrated erica in the early 19th century. It shared many of the same ves, subgenres, and forms as European Romanticism and spoke to volutionary spirit of the United States. The English Romantic Era came to an end in 1837 with the coronation of Queen Victoria.

B a c k g r o u n d

e n s w e a r

French Revolution Style

Men wore the coat, waistcoat, and trousers continuously during this time. Three-piece suits with straight across single- or double-breasted waistcoats, single- or doublebreasted breeches, and single- or double-breasted coats with standing or turned-down collars that fit snugly to the body, long tight sleeves, and cutaway fronts were popular.

Romanticism Style

Dress coats, which were tailcoats with the fronts cut directly across the waist and hanging tails in the back, were worn for formal daytime attire. The frock coat, which is used for casual daytime events, has waistline seam, is fitting closely, and its long skirts drop straight down to the knees Trousers were narrowly fitted and reached the top of the shoe.

A wide cut trousers called "cossacks", had a pleated waistline and tapered to a fitting ankle. Pantaloons were distinguishable from pants by how closely they fit. In the 1820s, they were anklelength with a buttoned side slit and quite snug.

French Revolution Style

Women's clothing designs emphasised the conical shape of the torso while the shape of the skirts changed over time. Women wore a variety of boldly coloured avant-garde striped jackets over white skirts made of tricolored fabrics. Even today, gowns are still designed as two-piece ensembles with a petticoat layered beneath an open robe. To stay warm, wool or quilted petticoats and waistcoats were worn below the dress and over the stays or corset. New were the long, tight sleeves, cut on a curve to fit tightly around the elbow.

Romanticism Style

Women of this era have a variety of sleeve styles and a waistline that extends from under the breast to several inches above the natural waist.

The hems of skirts in particular were layered with embellishment, continuing a decade-old trend of frills and tucks.

W o m e n s w e a r

J e w e l l e r y

The two most popular types of revolutionary jewellery were medallions and rings. Because of this, a lot of the jewellery used at the time was plain, made of metal, and either featured revolutionary emblems or commemorative themes. The majority of jewellery is made of diamond, gold, agate, amber, amethyst, chalcedony, chrysoberyl, garnet, malachite, seed pearls, quartz, topaz, and turquoise. Throughout the romantic era, jewellery was used to communicate and signify emotions like love, friendship, and religion.

In the romantic era, there were only a few different types of jewellery, including earrings, rings, bracelets, tiaras, ferronieres, brooches, and necklaces.

Men

During the French Revolution, men would either wear wigs or long, powdered hairstyles that were swept back from the forehead and clubbed with a black ribbon.

Men used to wear wide-brimmed tricorne hats with their three sides turned up as headdresses. Nowadays, men wear bicorne hats instead.

During the Romanticism era, men's hairstyles featured long sideburns, trimmed curls, and in some cases, moustaches.

Men wore top hats both during the day and at night. This hat, which is the most formal, is typically worn with tails.

Women

The women of the French Revolution were noted for their severe hairdos and wigs, which were frequently adorned with decorations and had extremely high builds.

Inside, women wore mob hats and other "country" headgear. Flat, broadbrimmed, low-crowned straw "shepherdess" hats fastened with ribbons were worn with the new rustic fashions.

r o o m i n g & S t y l i n g

e s

Emma heart, lady hamilton

The English maid, model, dancer, and actress Emma Hamilton, also known as Lady Hamilton, was born on April 26, 1765, and she passed away on January 15, 1815. Her outfit, a one-piece dress with a fitted bodice and flounced skirt, is very straightforward. She also tied a ribbon through his hair.

Queen Victoria

Queen Victoria liked to wear Day dresses frequently had gingham, checks, and plaid patterns and were made of cotton or linen. As part of her "uniform," she additionally wore lace-up boots, a long, dark skirt, and a high neck, long sleeve shirt with a "bustle" on a regular basis. She also had a tiny diamond crown on her head.

Moschino Ready-to-Wear Fall 2020, Jeremy Scott created this collection, drawing inspiration from the French Revolution and bringing the 1780s into the present with embroidered denim, biker-inspired leather, and anime whimsy.

Additionally, the designer infused French Revolution style into modern garments like hoodies, trench coats, and black leather biker jackets.

References

https://www.ask-aladdin.com/all-destinations/egypt/category/egypt-general-information/page/ancient-egypt-fashion https://arce.org/resource/egyptian-jewelry-window-ancient-

culture/#:~:text=Egyptians%20adorned%20themselves%20in%20a,%2C%20crowns%2C%20girdles%20and%20amulets.&text=Because%20je welry%20was%20so%20universal,studying%20even%20a%20single%20bead.

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/547552

https://www.nomadbarber.com/blogs/barbering/ancient-egyptian-male-grooming

https://womeninantiquity.wordpress.com/2017/03/29/mycenaean-females-clothing-hair-and-jewellery/ https://nationalclothing.org/europe/42-greece/579-what-did-they-wear-in-ancient-greece-mycenaean-attire.html

https://nationalclothing.org/europe/42-greece/573-what-did-they-wear-in-ancient-greece-minoan-clothing.html

https://jewelleryforus.com

/minoan-jewellery-goldsmithing?lang=en#:~:text=The%20Minoans%20made%20jewellery%20from,(%203500%20%2D1900%20BC%20). https://www.elissos.com/fashion-in-minoan-crete/ https://www.britannica.com/topic/dress-clothing/Mesopotamia

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grdr.htm#:~:text=Women%20sometimes%20wore%20an%20epiblema,with%20a%20high%20peake d%20crown.

https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2012/byzantium-and-islam/blog/topical-essays/posts/fashion https://www.langantiques.com/university/byzantine-

jewelry/#:~:text=Types%20of%20Jewelry&text=Large%20gem%2Dset%20necklaces%20were,pendant%20were%20a%20common%20sight. https://www.tha-engliscan-gesithas.org.uk/daily-life-in-anglo-saxon-england/anglo-saxon-clothes-women/ https://www.tha-engliscan-gesithas.org.uk/daily-life-in-anglo-saxon-england/anglo-saxon-clothes-men/

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https://rauantiques.com/blogs/canvases-carats-and-curiosities/the-history-of-renaissance-jewelry

https://www.bl.uk/shakespeare/articles/clothing-in-elizabethanengland#:~:text=Women's%20dress&text=The%20edges%20of%20the%20skirt,elements%20to%20look%20quite%20different.

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/jewelry/ https://www.bl.uk/shakespeare/articles/clothing-in-elizabethanengland#:~:text=Women's%20dress&text=The%20edges%20of%20the%20skirt,elements%20to%20look%20quite%20different.

http://www.thebeautybiz.com/78/article/history/beauty-through-ages-

renaissance#:~:text=Cosmetics%20in%20the%20Renaissance%20Era,lead%20powder%20to%20achieve%20it.