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3. TRACEABILITY IMPLICATIONS We would like to highlight a couple of changes in the methodology in 2019 that may have a small impact on the scoring. In previous years, we were looking for brands to be disclosing their supplier lists in any downloadable format, which could have been PDF, Word document, Excel or CSV file or any other similar format. This year we gave points only to the brands publishing their supplier lists in a computer readable file, Excel or CSV. Why? Because this enables their lists to be easily utilised by open source tools such as the Open Apparel Registry or the Clean Clothes Campaign-Wikirate factory search widget. These types of platforms are incredibly helpful for external stakeholders to make efficient use of brands’ supplier lists but they require data that can be easily and quickly put into action. 10% of brands are making their first-tier supplier lists available in Excel or CSV. Why are we asking brands and retailers to disclose their suppliers? Crucially, this sort of transparency can help brands engage and collaborate with trade unions and

other civil society organisations. The disclosure of supplier lists can facilitate the escalation of a labour rights issue by local trade unions or NGOs directly to brands, an issue that a standard factory audit may have failed to identify. So transparency can actually strengthen a company’s due diligence efforts and help clarify when unauthorised sub-contracting occurs.

whether the facility has a trade union and/or workers committee in place.

Examples of good practice in transparency

Nike (covering Converse and Jordan) also publishes their supplier list in an interactive map, including 527 factories that employ over 1 million workers in total and 77 facilities that supply materials. As a best practice example, Nike’s supplier list is available to download as a PDF, Excel or JSON files, which means it’s usable by a variety of external stakeholders. Nike’s list includes total number of workers, the number of line workers (not part of our methodology), percentage of female workers, percentage of migrant workers, factory contact name/email/phone and any known sub-contractors for each factory.

Adidas and Reebok, John Lewis and Marks & Spencer are the only brands and retailers in the Index that publish whether each of their first-tier supplier facilities has a trade union and/or worker committee in place. Marks & Spencer publishes a list of 1,720 factories that employ over 994,000 workers and produce clothing, homewares and food for the retailer. They publish this information in a customer-friendly interactive map and also in a downloadable list. Their list includes the exact number of workers per facility, the gender breakdown and

Marks & Spencer also publishes its wool suppliers in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and Uruguay, covering 12 farms that are certified with the Responsible Down Standard and represent approximately 3,500 tonnes of wool sourced annually.

Adidas and Reebok disclose detailed and individual supplier lists for multiple categories including primary suppliers and sub-contractors; licensees; wet processing facilities and specific supplier lists for key events such as FIFA World Cup championships and the Olympics. Patagonia’s Footprint Chronicles webpage is where you can see the company’s factories, textile mills and even one of their key cotton suppliers. For each supplier, they include a description about the company and a photo of the facility, as well as the date when the supplier first starting working with Patagonia. H&M is the only brand reviewed that includes the supplier grading — gold, silver or other — for every single first-tier and processing facility on their list. H&M explains what their supplier gradings mean at the bottom of the webpage. This information has enabled workers rights organisations like Clean Clothes Campaign to hold the company to account for taking action on living wages.

Profile for Fashion Revolution

Fashion Transparency Index 2019  

A review of 200 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about their social and environ...

Fashion Transparency Index 2019  

A review of 200 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about their social and environ...