New fashion trends by Fashion Forward Trend

THEMES & PROJECTIONS Finding Inspiration

A / W ’15-16 & S/S ’16

Inspiration influences a n d f ash io ns the m un d a n e into the exotic, or m a ke s what‘s beautiful, even more beautiful. It is the driving force behind the budding of new creations a t the be gi nning of all fa s hio n seaso ns. Inspiration c a n b e drawn from the m o s t unexpected p l a c e s in the heart … from unexplored regions of the m ind … from the m o s t m un d a n e o f t hi ng s … from technological a d v a n c e m e n t s … from travel to new places….from the v ag a r i e s o f Nature… from nosta lgic memories of the glorious fa shio na ble past…from a futuristic projection….from all that’s beaut iful a n d exotic… a n d from all that’s dark a n d mysterious. The list is unending, a n d the end result is often the creation of so m et hing t h a t is breathtakingly unique. No wonder then t h a t the f ashio n world wa it s in anticipa tion a s the new s e a s o n unfolds. How will Autumn Winter ‘15/16 de fine f a s h i o n ? What could Spring Summ er ‘16 h ave in store for fas hio n e n t h u s i a s t s ? These are the questions t h a t our S e a s o n a l Update/ THEMES & PROJECTIONS section will strive to answer with careful reasoning a n d a close observation of world trends. Fortunately, the intensity of t hese inspirations c a n be g a u g e d a t so m e level through research b e c a u s e f as hio n inspiration a t large, h a s a lot to derive from dom inant cultures a s it sh owc a se s all t h a t h a s universal relevance a n d appe al. Our co nsultants from around the world s t u d y factors like cultural o n - goin gs, technological a d v a n c e s , popular activities, art istic movements, a n d numerous other h app e n i n g s t h a t could directly or indirectly be co m e a n important inspiration for the breeders of fashion. Our readers c a n m a ke u se of these projections in the product development for the upco m ing seasons. The S e a s o n a l Update/THEM ES & PROJECTIONS in this edition of t he book is focuse d on the fabric, print a n d silhouette inspirations for Autumn Winter 15/16, a n d also offers a g lim p se into wh a t could b e co m e a fa shio n fix for Spring Summ er ‘16. The key t he m e s for Autumn Winter 15/16 t h a t h ave been incorporated in this edition are Food, Technology, Culture, Art a n d Home. These t he m es h ave been further subdivided into micro- t he mes like Photography a n d for Food, Kaleidoscopic Vision; Gift of Glitch a n d Bioluminescence for Technology; Russia, Africa a n d S p a i n for Culture; J ux t apo s e d a n d Mixed Media.

THEMES & PRO JECTIONS A / W ’15-16 S/ S’16

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M I X E D M E D I A

The urge to g ive birth to som eth ing unique, which is a ste p a h e a d o f the known, expresses the philosophy o f mixed m e d i a in the b e st possible light. Su b se q u en t to its inception by the Cubists in 1912, the art h a s recently g a i n e d popularity a g a i n b e c a u s e o f the im m en se nature o f b ein g visually expressive, which is hard to miss. Diverse textures of oil paint, textiles, vinyl, wood a n d sculptures are be in g layered to symbolize a kaleidoscope o f ideas. Transgressing from multi-textured a n d complex works o f found o b jec ts on c a n va s , new m o de s o f visualization o f m e d i a a n d other techno lo g y video a n d photography, sculpture a n d photography, pa intin g with v i d e o - are now b ein g merged to explore new expressions a n d emotions t h a t are reflected through s u c h unexpected a n d unpredictable pairing. While turning f l a t su rf a c es to a third dimension h a s enveloped mo st artistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; developing mixed m e d i a art, there are a few who h ave chosen the skill o f m a k i n g a three dimensional su bje ct app e a r a s a two dimensional one, by turning the h u m a n bo dy into a live c a n v a s to p ain t on a n d then capturing it through a photograph to collapse depth. In the next five years, a theme, which p o ssesses no limitations, will naturally g o through rapid transformations a n d experimentation in a n y creative field, since this app ro ac h insinuates the desperate need to recreate oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tho ug hts into reality, b y d e f y i n g natural settings, to personalize a sub jec t in a w ay th a t it ca nn o t be copied, stolen or erased.

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JUX TAPOSED To a ch ieve a work t h a t m ai n tai n s a b a l a n c i n g a c t between a multitude o f elements t h a t create c o n sta nt tensio n- is w h a t the viewer c a n expect to see. To either be drawn to the similarities or the c rass differences t h a t represent issu es related to the violence a n d pressures within the society, while simultaneously reflecting personal history. Uniting surrealism a n d realism is a m e a n s to put together the unconscious with the conscious, a world o f f a n t a s y a n d reality, which m a k es the relationship between o bjec ts extraordinary a n d devoid of normal frequency. One c a n detect s u c h art through literal observ ations of crisp detailing a g a i n s t so ft h a n d e d ones, a g gressi ve strokes alon gside light s h a d i n g or controlled patterns pu t next to f ree - h a n d illustrations- so m e su c h c o n ce pts include straight monotonous lines on colourful blooming flowers, a m o s a i c texture on a f a c e print a n d partial s m u d g i n g o f a perfect picture. An artist m ig h t juxtapose usi n g imagery, too, b y highlighting the matter which is m a c h i n e - m a d e or hu m an ly created, where one c a n interpret the soulless uniformity of urbanization merging with the infinite b e a u ty a n d fragility o f nature or se e the former tran slating into s a f e t y a n d order compared to the irrepressible strength o f the latter. 13

The current socio-political tensions hint a t the trend o f p la c in g opposites together, se e pi n g into the world of art, culture a n d f ashio n a t a greater p a c e in the co m ing few years. This form o f art bestows upon the spectator, the opportunity to perceive the fluid a n d static, the minimalist a n d expressionistic or the pristine a n d the defaced.

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FOOD FOR HT E CREATIVE MIND

Co -existing with the m o st glo bal trend o f the self fixated ‘selfie’, Food Photography a n d Sty li ng has, delightfully, m a d e its p la c e in society. Star t in g out with a culture o f its own, food, today, is not only for the h u m a n taste buds, but it is also for the c a m e r a in its m o st unique forms. Food stylists from all over the world are presenting food a s art, su rp a ssin g the boundaries o f finely crafted cookbooks a n d reaching out a s inspiring mood boards to artists a n d designers. No more are these photographs for restaurants or luxury hotel chains, but are transforming into prints a n d colour t h a t are soothing to the eyes, in real handcrafted ways. Evolving through the years, from mere still life specialization, then commercial photography, to now, where food a s a n art form h a s matured into a creative p l ay o f romantic lighting, shallower angles, c h a n g i n g perspectives, extreme c lo se - u p s a n d more props. Food is dissected, explored a n d experimented with, to discover newer dimensions in d e s i g n – from the very raw a n d original to the muc h arranged a n d skillfully tho ught over. Also a t t a c h e d with the deeper si g ni f ic a nc e o f organic farming, v e g a n living a n d the slow food movement- food styling h a s b ec o m e a photography revolution, s p a n n in g across social m e d i a platforms, from Pinterest to Instagram. Food is simply not a necessity to survive bu t a lifestyle t h a t h a s to b e pondered over a n d carefully consumed. M a ki n g its w ay into yet another youth culture are the every day sma r t phone owners who are bec o mi ng the n e w - a g e food stylist a n d photographers– travelling a n d m a k i n g the world o f food more diverse a n d aware. Filtering into the world o f fashion, from su g a r co ated colour palettes to cute food-inspired novelty prints– the d a y s are not far behind when the floral garden will be sharing its s p a c e with the b e a u t y o f a home grown kitchen garden. Cucumbers a n d o ranges will be a s fresh a s the blo ssoming b u d s o f flowers a n d the garden s a l a d will be the new jungle green o f winter. There will be berries on dresses a n d watermelons on the runways, m ag n if i c en tly perceived a n d im a gin atively captured.

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IMAGINATION AT C LIC K Technology haschangedour livesin num erousways, inthepast. But, themomentit coincided with photography, a revolution took place. Sm a r t phones h ave c h a n g e d the w ay people purchase cameras, simp ly b e c a u s e the luxury o f a picture (for a lifetime) is now, in their hands. With a simple click a n d a well tho ught-o ut filter, everyone h a s b eco m e a photographer on the go. At one instant click your world is vintage; the other second, it is retro a n d in the third, a glorified hipster. S m a r t photographers are the cult of the future. They look, observe a n d do cument life through their pho nes a n d spread visu al knowledge through the technolog y of social m e d i a app s. They think local a n d click local, forming a world which is in its m o st original form. This world o f sma r t photography is not photoshopped or fake, but a n innocent mo m ent captured which only travels in time through the wide selection of filters a n d effects.

Photography

This co m munity o f photographers believes in the realâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; people, p l a c e s a n d living. They donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need a model to po se b e c a u s e they are their own posers or define their sub jec ts from w h a t it alread y is. They click a field in its true nature, the g a z e of a p a s s i n g - b y animal, the scratched pa int on the walls, the golden shining o f corn fields, the c ra zy -gon e- w ild creepers or the d a y to d a y o b jec ts which are e a s y to miss. For them, the whole world resides in a single i n - t h e m o m e n t shot, which h a s no defined time or environment. Now, a designer do es not need to g o p l a c e s in search of inspiration b e c a u s e his phone is his mo st instan t mood board. From wide sc a l i n g l a n d s c a p e s to co mplicated city sc apes, everything is in reach a s the sm ar t phone b ec o m es the widest photographic resource. A picture c a n then b e converted into different textures th a t transform the i m a g e from a photograph to art, le avin g the rest to digital printing. Fashion is stan d i ng on the verge o f extreme d y n a m i s m t h a t h a s never been witnessed before, with the power o f sharing a n d inspiring through social media.

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B I O LUMINESCENC E

M a n is constantly on the look-out for so mething new, so mething to a d d zeal to the b a n a lit y o f everyday life a n d the process o f ch ar ting a course towards the new a n d the unexplored, sometimes, involves looking into the past; turning a new l e a f b y go in g b a c k to a n old o n e - looking a t nature, for example, a n d deriving inspiration from primeval a n d unexplored forms. In this search for the extraordinary, Bio -luminescent o rganisms present a n exemplary mediu m to the burning-out h u m a n by enco uraging them to light the fire from within. The esse n c e o f Bio-luminescence , su m m e d u p in one word, is “flashing”— f l a s h i n g on b ein g challenged, f la sh i n g on a ttem p tin g to attra ct fellow-organisms, f l a s h i n g a n d app ea rin g breathtaking to a mate, f l a sh i n g to define e a c h move. These a nc ien t life-forms, found in the unexplored par ts o f o c e a n s a n d forests, implore h u m a n s to exhibit innate talent b y flashing. On the other hand, so m e organisms, like angler fish, host luminescent flora in their bodies a n d create a n environment for co-op, e g g i n g - o n the st a g g e r i n g h u m a n to a u g m e n t his intrinsic value b y inculcating a talent within himself a n d for the world to see. In fashion, bio-luminosity h a s been seen in couture, reflecting in g low - in - th e - d ark clothing a n d fibre-optic apparel, e sp ec iallyin the work o f e-textile label, Cute Circuit. Bio-lumino sity c a n be represented vicariously in psychedelic iterations through juxtapositions o f fabrics in varied textures, shiny silk embroidery on thick fabric ba se s, vibrant colours in co mbinatio n with dull backgrounds a n d also, in s e q u i n s - work, c o ate d fabric a n d the use o f reflective materials like rexine a n d PVC, a s seen in the collections o f Toga, Diane von Furstenberg, B e ts y Johnso n, Julie n MacDonald, Libertine, No. 21, M a rche sa Voya ge for Fall 2014. It is, therefore, expected th a t the runways o f Fall 2015 will bring forth a delightful luminous story o f its own. 33

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E GIFT OF

G LI T C H PERFECTION IN IMPERFECTION A su dden break in a perfect pattern, a series o f dark s h a d e s su bd ue d b y a bright splatter or a n alm o st perfect circle, but for the slight bend alo ng the circumference; these are nothing bu t unnerving v i sua ls of a malfunctio n to the h u m a n brain t h a t is ac c u sto m e d to receiving faultless structure from the machine, it is so p ain stakin gly programmed. B u t it is the uniqueness o f this malfunctio n t h a t h a s m a d e ‘glitch’ a n art-form. Glitch is a n unintended, spo ntaneo us a n d incontrollable reaction to a stimulus in a n y IT enabled g a d g e t or machinery. Much like the h u m a n brain a n d its involuntary neural activity, glitch is so mething t h a t a developer didn’t foresee or intend in his creation. It is ab o u t a s intractable a n d amorphous a s fate; so m e h u m a n - m a d e m a c h i n e s m ig h t h ave perceived ‘malfunctioning minds’ of their own t h a t “glitch” whenever a n d however they wish. Glitches h ave been seen in the form o f g raph ic noise, pixilation, d e a d pixels, superimposing patterns a n d unstructured splits. Naturally, sin gle- trac k perception attributed to humankind has, for long, led the rejection o f the unique design, birthed b y these ‘glitches’, on the ground o f b ein g flawed. Contemporary art, on the other hand, h a s welcomed the b e a u t y o f imperfection a g a i n s t the co n sta nt search for utopian perfection, with a rms wide open. In art, these glitches represent the h u m a n instinct to harbour a n d nurture the various personalities within the self, instead o f b ein g forced to lead a structured n in e - to - f i ve lifestyle. It is a n enco uragement o f exploration in imperfection, the co nsequences o f which ca nn o t b e predetermined but will b e celebrated for their uniqueness, nonetheless; no Glitch Art work is a reject. The m e a n s o f a c h ievi ng this art is a s interesting a s the art form itself. A software programmer would ‘corrupt’ a n i m a g e file by introducing a programming error or “bug” to it; w h a t follows is, literally, in the h a n d s of fate. The work o f Phillip Ste arn s is widely recognized in the field o f glitch art. He h a s managed to bring out glitches to the field of apparel a s well. Following in his footsteps, for A / W 14-15, the workshops of Chanel, Chaliyan, J o s h Goot, Custo Barcelona a n d Creatures o f the Wind h ave produced weaves, knits a n d prints t h a t shone with the intrinsically flawed b e a u t y o f the art-form. Another w ave is yet to b e seen in A / W 15-16.

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KALEIDOSCOPI C V IS IO N

In the dark o f the h u m a n mind, rests a f a n t a s y to ta ste the forbidden fruitto unhinge from m un d a n e reality a n d delve into the secrets o f the surreal a n d the unexplained. A renaissance is upon the concrete-dweller, imploring him to take c h a rg e of his life instead o f centering it on social, geo -po litical a n d economic obligations. It is re-offering him the c h a n c e to self-reflect a n d d e sig n his life on his terms,- turning the kaleidoscope in the direction o f the pattern he desires. Kaleidosc ope- a cylindrical p e e p - i n form t h a t expansivelyreflects the b e a u t y o f ob jects p l ac e d randomly or strategically in it. Viewer guides, contraption follows, a n d b e a u t y returns to the eye o f the beholder from the lo n g- d rawn - out a g e o f prescribed doctrines, m a k i n g the kaleidoscope a power tool, p a s s i n g the reign o f control into the h a n d s o f its viewerenco uraging him to explore. Bea ds, bits o f metal, g l a s s or a n assortment o f all c o m e together to form varied patterns a s the viewer tilts or rotates the simple yet sm ar t contraption. K aleid o sc o p ice lem en tsin appa rel areref lec tiveo fth esesen sib ility- g lim pse s o f mirroring weaves, prints a n d embroideries in patterns, ra ng ing from floral to tribal h ave been seen on the runways o f A / W 14-15. An extension o f the trend for A / W 15-16 would be a n incorporation o f the abstract. Abstract d e si g n s woven, knitted, printed or embroidered onto apparel would represent the a m b i g u i ty a n d p l ay a sso c ia ted with life, mirroring the th o ug hts o f the wearer.

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CONTEMPORARY A FRICA Breaking a w a y from the demo graphic clichés of be in g tribal, ethnic a n d exotic; African sensibilities undergo a modern transformation a n d form a comprehensive trend o f Afro-futurism. This co n cept alo n g with Africa’s contemporary art sce n e is characterized by a myriad o f remarkable artists who are developing a n d d esi gn i n g African a esth e tic s in modern perspectives. Traditional artworks portraying Africa’s rich c u sto ms a n d diverse b e a u t y are be in g transformed to suit present- d ay sensibilities. Observing overseas trends, local designers create inventive a n d artistic merchandise b y c u mulatin g traditional motifs, music a n d folk-tales with world culture a n d globalized techniques. Contemporarygeometricprintswith cleanlines, sh ape san d c h a ra c ter istic s, borrowed from the B a u h a u s School o f Art, merge with the naïve tribal traditions to put forth a unique variety o f prints. Customary m a a s a i figurines, tribal m a s k s a n d tattoo patterns from Ethiopia, G h a n a a n d So m alia, g e t incorporated with western silhouettes a n d this collaboration o f the conventional a n d contemporary high lights the co ncealed a n d forgotten craf ts o f the African artisans. Intricate beadwork, fringing, thread embroideries a n d Adire t i e - d ye techniques compel the previous, monotonous chevrons to step a s id e a n d g ive w ay to the African tribal trail.

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RUSSIA N Consisting o f a rich visua l a n d cultural p a s t a lo n g with colourful folk c o stum es t h a t are decorated with ornate religious symbols, R ussia enjoys b ein g the motherland o f beauty, detail a n d d esig n aesthetic . A s the Matryoshka dolls open u p to reveal another one inside, the co ncealed mystery unfolds a n d brings out the true artistry o f the elaborate patterns on the surface. Regarded a s the m o st prominent s h a d e in the R u ssia n palette, red symb olises so mething beautiful, which a lo n g with blue, green, white, yellow a n d gold create a n au ra o f festivity a n d ethnicity. Built on the co ncept o f functionality a n d fashion, together, traditional R u ssia n c o stu me s revolve around the world o f su rfa ce decoration through its plethora o f ornamentation techniques. Rhombuses, crosses, herringbones, layers a n d stylized patterns of people a n d a n i m a l s serve a s pattern inspirations to b e embroidered on h o m e - m a d e c a n v a s a n d wool clothes for prese nt- d ay p e a san tr y ensembles. E m b le m ati c architectural elements like arcs, helix-structures a n d domes, intertwine with R u ssia n cultural designs, which facilitate the inception o f intricately laid d e si g n s on brocades a n d silks. A s the strings o f the B a l a l a i k a hit the right tune, the luxurious colours o f R u ssian culture em b o d y themselves in the form o f cl assi c attire.

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SPANISH A s the Andalusian genre o f music fills the air o f S p a i n with a rhythmic tune, a fine blend o f spirituality a n d cheerfulness reflect the primitive traditions o f Hispaniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s medieval past. E m erg ing from the land o f c apes, corsets a n d farthingales; jewel embellishments, metal embroidery a n d b la c k beadwork weave a story o f techniques for the season. Evolving to curb the French influence, the Hispanic d e s i g n s a n d c o stum es now fla un t their inherent ch arm a n d ethnicity, highlighting the d y n a m i c lifestyle of the S p a n i s h populace. The incredibly bright tones from the S p a n i s h palette adorn the playf u l f abrics in a contemporary light. Drawing inspiration from the baroque a n d neo classical architecture, intricately laid patterns are incepted on vibrant a n d celebratory fabric, portraying extraordinary artistic heritage. Continuing the tradition o f the S p a n i s h province, the prominence o f techniques is reinforced a s m o tifs with Islamic influence adorn silks in cross a n d French knots. Polka dots, flowers, festive attire a n d elaborate accesso ries pa in t a sce nic portrait o f cultural richness, where delicate needlework a n d handicraft f acilitate the route o f transforming the d e si g n into reality, bringing b a c k the a esth e tic o f dark baroque, excessive gold, silver a n d metal a m a l g a m a t i o n s with miniscule appliqu ĂŠ variations.

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