Burberry Retail Strategy- Faith Dawson

IntroductionThe luxury fashion market is rapidly changing as consumers expect brands to make a shift in their strategies. Traditional luxury marketing was focused mainly on the product, whereas now a shift has occured to a focus on the experience, as consumers now want to explore new feelings, especially the Gen Z consumer (Batat, 2019). Consumers want to have an experience they will remember.

Burberry is a luxury brand which has tried to make changes for the Gen Z consumer, to make it more accessible, but unfortunately lost its brand identity at points along the way (Weston, 2022). Whilst it has spent many years to fix it, that part of the past remains in the consumer’s mind. This report will look at how Burberry can combine its physical presence with its growing digital presence in the luxury market to make itself more appealing to the Gen Z consumer, by telling the brand’s story and allowing consumers to connect with it and rebuild the relationship that they once had.

The Luxury Fashion

Fashion Market

The Changing Consumer

Since the end of the 19th century, the luxury fashion market has massively changed, as it now has a lower degree of uniqueness, and it has become more inclusive (Cabigiosu, 2020). It is a market that will always have a need; however, the need of their consumers is changing, especially among the Gen Z consumer.

Gen Z consumers have been raised during times of a lot of uncertainity, particularly in politics and socioeconomic crises (Batat, 2019). This has led to them having compulsive buying habits, makes them less faithful to brands, meaning they lack loyalty to any brands and find it easy to switch between them (Barat, 2019). This means that brands are having to work harder to keep their loyalty, however the Gen Z consumers are wanting more than just the product now, they want the “wow” effect (Barat, 2019).

The experience is now the most important part of the sale, as consumers now put this first. They want to feel connected and wanted by the brand at all forms of contact, whether this the actual sale, the aftercare or even just through the social media, consumers want to feel valued throughout the journey (Barat, 2019). They want to experience a sense of belonging and enchantment, and by doing this, brands are more likely to gain the consumers loyalty, as they feel close to it (Chevalier & Gutsatz, 2020; Barat, 2019).

Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs is about fulfilling human needs, whether it is the basics needs like safety, or self-actualisation (Diamond et al, 2016). For the consumer, buying a luxury product is fulfilling their self-actualisation goals, as it provides them with a feeling of accomplishment and pride (Pajić, 2019; Diamond et al, 2016). This links to the COVID-19 pandemic, as consumers tried to fill this need more, suggesting why sales in the luxury market grew significantly, especially in accessories, as it is the most accessible (Pang et al, 2022).

The way of connecting with consumers has moved to be mainly digital, as Gen Z consumers now connect with them using social media (Barat, 2019). Brands are becoming aware of this as consumers now look for recognition of peers to legitimise products and brands, especially since the growth of influencers, on apps such as Instagram and TikTok (Barat, 2019). Consumers are now dependent on experiences and advice from online communities, as they share photos and reviews for millions for see, making it more important for every consumer to have a positive experience (Barat, 2019).

Luxury brands need to create an exciting and memorable experience for the Gen Z consumers, something that other brands are yet to do, something which can get people talking and excited for, because that is how they will keep the loyalty.

Current digital innovations in the market

The ‘Fourth Industrial Revolution’ is what the current market situation is, as things turn towards being more digital, as more designers and brands start using smart products and experimenting with VR, AR and 3D modelling (Bertola and Teunissen, 2018; heuritech, n.d.).

There is currently a huge opportunity in the digital market for fashion brands, especially since the COVID-19 pandemic as consumers crave new experiences, in the digital world, with 30% of brands saying it’s their biggest opportunities (heuritech, n.d.). Designers such as Iris van Herpen have developed designs such as smart textiles with innovative technologies, but this is only the start (Bertola and Teunissen, 2018).

Virtual reality (VR) and augmented reality (AR) are being developed in stores, to make the experience more enjoyable for consumers, such as Harrods having virtual shopping assistants (heuritech, n.d.). AR is technology that has been designed to generate a computer-image on a user’s view in the real world (heuritech, n.d.). It means you can take measurements, customise clothing and cut down on time, whilst also doing remote fittings with an avatar (heuritech, n.d.). Likewise, 3D modelling allows brands to create custom designs and prints, without having any physical resources wasted (heuritech, n.d.).

Luxury brands have currently started expanding into the metaverse. The metaverse is a creation which combines the digital and physical world in a virtual reality (Hackl, 2021). Burberry’s competitors such as Louis Vuitton are working in the metaverse, with the game: Louis the Game (Romagnoli, 2022). Likewise, Balenciaga have collaborated with the game ‘Fornite’, in order to make their appearance in the metaverse (Marr, 2022; Romagnoli, 2022).

The digital market has not only expanded through the innovations, but by social media and influencers (heuritech, n.d.). Brands now connect with consumers through challenges, hashtags, and the type of content which they post (heuritech, n.d.). They use it to try and tell a story.

While the digital world is exciting, it is important to consider that this is not exciting and important to everyone. A lot of people still like having an experience, that isn’t all digitally based, where they can feel something, both physically and emotionally.

BURBERRY

BURBERRY

The History

Burberry was established in 1856 by Thomas Burberry, whose mission it was to provide clothing that would protect people from the British weather (BurberryPLC, n.d.). When the brand invented gabardine; a breathable, weatherproof, and hardwearing fabric, it started to be noticed by explorers, such as Dr Fridtjof Nansen, who was the first recorded polar explorer to take Burberry to the poles (BurberryPLC, n.d.). Due to its great success among the explorers, the iconic Burberry trench coat was created for World War 1, to protect British soldiers from the weather, while having practical functions for their military equipment (BurberryPLC, n.d.). In 1955, Queen Elizabeth II granted Burberry a Royal Warrant as a Weatherproofer (BurberryPLC, n.d.).

While Burberry has always been ahead of competitors with its weatherproof clothing, it was also one of the first brands to ever offer same day delivery in 1934, in its own dedicated vehicle in London, something that some brands have only started to do in recent years (BurberryPLC, n.d.). In 2010, Burberry became the first brand to livestream a fashion show and the first luxury brand to join the Ethical Trading Initiative (BurberryPLC, n.d.).

@Burberry PLC (n.d.)

@Burberry PLC (n.d.)

@Burberry PLC (n.d.)

@Burberry PLC (n.d.)

SWOT Analysis

Fig. 1

Strengths

- Well structured

- Wide customer base across different markets- Asia Pacific, EMEIA and the Americas.

- Both physical and online presence

- Growth into the metaverse

Opportunities

- Growth of the apparel market

- Growth of the footwear and accessories market

- British heritage

- Growth of the digital world

- Change in consumer wants

What are they currently doing?

Burberry has now grown to be one of the most successful luxury brands, with it being worth over €3.9billion and having 415 stores worldwide (see fig 2 to see the location of the stores), with it also merchandising products through its e-commerce platform (MarketLine, 2022; Sabanoglu, 2022). Burberry’s revenue can be seen in Fig 1 as it shows which areas are currently the most successful (BurberryPLC, 2022).

Burberry has always aimed to be a digital pioneer in the luxury industry and that remains the same to this day (BurberryPLC, 2021). During the COVID-19 pandemic, Burberry ensured that all customers will still be able to receive the best experience possible, so offered virtual shopping experiences online, when stores were closed (BurberryPLC, 2021). They also ensured that the same conversations could be had with sales associated virtually and the personalisation of the digital experience was increased (BurberryPLC, 2021). A section on the website called ‘Burberry World’ was added to provide users with background information on the products, and information about the brand itself (BurberryPLC, 2021). It also had a range of virtual events such as product launches, fashion shows and styling sessions (BurberryPLC, 2021). It has continued with them since then as it is known for its creative innovations instore, as it does more work with AR (Romagnoli, 2022). Burberry have also been called one of fashions pioneer’s in the metaverse, as it creates content with companies such as Mythical Games, ahead of many of its competitors (Marr, 2022; Romagnoli, 2022).

Burberry has recently appointed Daniel Lee as its new chief creative officer, replacing Riccardo Tisci, who is currently working on strategies to help the brand return to its British roots (Rascouet, 2022). He currently has plans to strengthen the accessory offerings, with a particular focus on bags and shoes, as the want for accessories continues to be on the uprise since the COVID-19 pandemic (Pang et al, 2022; Rascouet, 2022). In addition to this, Burberry is set to launch a rainwear campaign in January, the first one in four years, to remind consumers of its story and background (Rascouet, 2022).

What went wrong?

Burberry have not been shy of backlash over the years, with it having large sustainability issues in most recent years. In 2018, it was discovered that Burberry had burnt $38million of unsold goods, so that it wouldn’t damage its luxury price tag by selling them cheaper (Bae, 2019). Burberry received a lot of backlash, with consumers stating how unacceptable this was. As more consumers start to believe modern luxury fashion is about being both socially and environmentally responsible, this became a large problem for Burberry (Bae, 2019). Burberry announced it would discontinue the burning of goods and reiterated the positive sustainability efforts which it is doing (Bae, 2019).

This came not long after, Burberry had spent years trying to reinvent itself after it got branded with the “chav culture” (Weston, 2022; iuemag, 2021). “Chav culture” has been around for many years, with it being defined as a type of fashion that involves designer brands, flashy jewellery, and athletic casual clothing (iuemag, 2021; Merriam-Webster, n.d.). Sales fell to an all-time low for Burberry for many years, leading to it having to make many changes in all areas of the brand (iuemag, 2021). This job was given to Christopher Bailey in 2001, who focused on digital innovations to bring the brand back to life (BOF, n.d.).

While Burberry has managed to regain sales after these knock-backs, it still sticks in some consumers memory, especially the Gen Z consumer. For most Gen Z consumers, they will have grown up seeing Burberry’s “chav culture” and when they started to come out of this, then heard about its sustainability issues, something which is very important to Gen Z consumers. Therefore, to engage with more Gen Z consumers, it needs to use both its physical and digital space to create a positive story to attract them, something which it does have.

What could they do?

Burberry is starting to see its opportunities and work on them; however, its competitors are also doing the same, with LVMH and Hermes setting the bar very high (Rascouet, 2022). Burberry need to have something that makes it stand out from other competitors, which is more than a good instore experience, as this is easily copied, it needs to have the “wow” effect (Batat, 2019)

Burberry’s biggest unique selling point is its British history and the part it played in different historical events, something many of its consumers will have little knowledge about. It needs to remind consumers that it is a well-established and recognised brand and have been around for over 150 years, that it has always put its consumer first and wants to protect them and provide them with goods that they know will last. It needs to do something that will remind consumers about what the brand is, and what it stand for, not about the negative things that have happened in recent years, and rebuild the relationships, that might have been lost. This is where Burberry castle comes in.

Fig. 4

AMBITIONS

The Innovation

A Gap in the Market

All luxury fashion brands are thing that can grab the Gen Z it is offering something virtual, collection of clothing in the game collaboration with Palace, where were used in the campaign videos

Some luxury brands have also consumers, for example, Dior where you can witness 75-years’ n.d.). Likewise, YSL have created in Paris, on the premise of the (YSL, n.d.). Both bring consumers to see the history of these iconic having the opportunity to be seen story, allowing consumers to needs to be done for Burberry

There is a gap in the market for people can visit, both in person brand’s story and their values.

Market

trying to create the next big consumers attention, whether virtual, like Balenciaga launching a game Fortnite, or Gucci’s recent where Sesame Street characters videos (Marr, 2022; Watson, 2022). also created an experience for Dior have created a museum in Paris, 75-years’ worth of collections (Dior, created a museum for its collection the former haute couture house consumers in from all over the world iconic brands, with neither of them seen digitally. They tell the brand’s connect with them, something that Burberry. for an experience, somewhere person and virtually, to discover the values.

Burberry Castle and Gardens

As stated by Pine and Gilmour, consumers want a memorable experience, therefore by using something intangible as the stage and using their goods as props, Burberry certainly can showcase its heritage and values to rebuild the consumer relationship (Pine II and Gilmour, 1998).

Burberry castle and gardens is in the idyllic, Shirburn Castle, where a 2016 Burberry commercial, ‘The Tale of Thomas Burberry,’ was filmed (Scoopnest, 2016). As you step inside the castle, you are greeted by a tour guide, who explains the layout of the castle. They describe it as an interactive timeline. Each room shows a different decade, all the way from 1850’s to now. In each room, you learn about the key history from that time, ranging from unseen designs from Thomas Burberry himself, to its connection to World War 1 to the recent digital collaborations it has taken part in. Each room displays key garments from the decade, which can be tried on virtually, using AR technology and can be downloaded for online avatars. By scanning a QR code, you are given the option to try on a replica before leaving, with the option to purchase. You immediately scan it for a trench coat. As you head through the castle, you will get to the 1950’s, where you have booked in for afternoon tea at the ‘The Burberry.’ You opt for the prosecco brunch and are served by waiters dressed in a classic Burberry check. Once continuing around the castle, you learn more about the brand’s values, seeing the charity work it has carried out, the sustainability difference it is trying to make and the impact it has had on the British culture.

After virtually trying on every possible trench coat to share on social media, you head outside to the gardens. You cross the moat on the small rowing boat, as you prepare for the maze. You take an hour to work your way through the maze, learning about the different explorers that Burberry have helped to protect, and make it just in time for the daily horse show, where knights and horses dressed in Burberry showcase themselves. Before heading back to the castle, you stop for an ice cream, overlooking your natural surroundings of the Oxfordshire countryside. Before heading home, you head to the final section, where you can try on and purchase anything you tried on virtually, with the help of highly qualified assistants. You try on the trench coat and fall in love. The warmth of it. The thickness of the material. The experience. It’s everything you’ve dreamt of.

So why would the Gen Z consumer like this innovation? Because they want to feel as though they are put first. They want to feel like they matter more than the sales, something that this achieves. It helps to build a relationship, because it allows to apprehensive consumers to get to know Burberry, for its values, not the negative backlash it was received and shows the consumers that they have the same values. They can access it both online and in person, giving everyone the same opportunity to experience it.

Storytelling is an important part of this process, as will allow Burberry to attract and retain consumers, while providing consumers with a fun, positive experience, something that is exciting for the consumer, no matter how long they’ve shopped with them (Pulizzi, 2012; i-SCOOP, n.d.). It is important that it creates a multi-sensory experience, as it will help to create a memorable and lasting image (Comunale, 2008). If brands want to create a connection with their consumers, they need to be authentic and inspire, something that it is important for Burberry to do, as it begins to show consumers how to trust it again (i-SCOOP, n.d.). The main focus of Burberry castle is to provide a service and entertainment, by showing consumers Burberry’s story, without the focus being too heavily on the purchase at the end, as although this is an option, the main focus is to provide the consumer with something enjoyable where they can learn to trust the brand again, so they when one day when a purchase comes to be made, they will choose Burberry over other brands, due to the relationship that has been built, which can be seen in Aaker’s classic brand loyalty pyramid (D’Arienzo, 2016).

Fig. 5

@BritishListedBuildings (n.d.)

Strengths

- Consumers want an experience

- Growth in brand awareness and loyalty- pushing people towards the brand

- Building a relationship with consumers based on trust

- Reminds consumers of the positive aspects of Burberry, instead of any issues.

Weaknesses

- Main audience is in Asia - Expensive

Opportunities

- The want for an adventure

- Opportunity for it to grow into other countries

- Opportunity to regrow the British audience in the UK

Threats

- Other brands are starting to create experiences too - Current economic crisis

SWOT Analysis of the Innovation

The SWOT analysis shows that the strengths and opportunities outweigh the weaknesses and threats. It shows that it presents the potential for it to bring the spark back into the UK market, despite its current biggest market being Asia, with the opportunity to still develop the experience into that market (Bae, 2019). The biggest threat currently is the economic crisis, because consumers can’t afford to make luxury purchases and must scale back. However, the experience is likely to still be popular as people want to be more involved after the COVID-19 pandemic.

@Burberry PLC (n.d.)

Marketing the Innovation

Emotional branding is an important part of Burberry castle, because it is about ensuring consumers feel something for the brand, because that will encourage them to continue purchasing from it (Comunale, 2008; i-SCOOP, n.d.). Consumers need to identify with the brand, something that is important for the marketing strategy (Comunale, 2008).

The most important part of this marketing strategy is to draw people in with a story, to add to the storytelling aspect, giving consumers a hint of what is to come, by taking them on the journey (Chevalier & Gutsatz, 2020). The social media marketing will start a few months before the opening, with a little sneak peek, but not giving too much away. A countdown will start 2 months before. When we get to this stage, invitations will be sent to influencers and celebrities for the opening night of the castle. This will then be shared all over social media, with the hashtag, #tellingburberry, which is all about spreading stories and building the trust within the community. Due to the opening night event, consumers will hopefully have some awareness of it and will now choose to book tickets.

After the initially opening, consumers who use the experience will share their virtual outfits/opinions on the experience, which will attract more people to the castle. Meanwhile, all of this will be drawing consumers into the Burberry stores, online and social media as consumers want to see what is happening.

Due to the target consumer being Gen Z, social media is highly important, in particular Instagram and TikTok, because these are platforms that can highly influence their opinions on brands and encourage others to interact with them, therefore by having a positive online response from consumers and influencers, it will gain trust among these communities, which will eventually lead to sales (Cho et al, 2022; Barat, 2019).

The most important areas of the marketing strategy is the storytelling aspect as it pulls the consumers in and maintaining a positive response from others, because this is something that others will trust, as it hasn’t come directly from the brand itself.

@Burberry PLC (2022)

The Future of Burberry

What comes next?

Burberry is a very well-established luxury brand and although losing its way at points, has the potential to really connect with the Gen Z consumer, as they share similar values. By creating an experience, both physically and virtually, it allows itself to tell the story to consumers, allowing trust and a relationship to be rebuilt.

By starting in the UK, it allows Burberry to regain its British heritage and the consumer, however there is opportunities for it to be adapted for other markets in the future. For other markets, ir would need to have a smaller focus on its British heritage, instead just on the brand, talking about its successes and the impact on the market. As castles may not be as important in other countries, alternative buildings and architecture will need to be found, however the same level of experience will be created. Asia is one of Burberry’s biggest markets, so this would be a good place to open a second experience, as it has a strong connection and market already, so it would help to enhance it further.

This has potential for long-term profitability because although the experiences themselves won’t have the largest revenue, it is an investment into regain consumer trust and loyalty, which long-term creates higher revenue for the company, as consumers choose to purchase with Burberry, over other luxury brands.

Burberry will also continue to keep up to date with its digitally developments within the experiences, ensuring that they are ahead of what competitors are doing and the consumers have the most memorable experience possible.

Burberry has a lot of potential to regain its consumer base through an unforgettable experience that can provide, something that no other brand has quite managed to achieve yet.

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Fig 1. SWOT Analysis Based on data from SWOT Analysis from: Marketline, 2022. Burberry Group PLC: Company Overview, s.l.: Marketline.

Fig 2. Pie Charts Taken from: Burberry, 2022. Investors Pack Nov 2022, London: Burberry PLC. (Report can be downloaded from Burberry PLC Website)

Fig 3. Map Taken from: Burberry, 2022. Investors Pack Nov 2022, London: Burberry PLC. (Report can be downloaded from Burberry PLC Website)

Fig 4. Ambitions Taken from: Burberry, 2022. Investors Pack Nov 2022, London: Burberry PLC. (Report can be downloaded from Burberry PLC Website)

Fig 5. Aaker’s pyramid Can be found in: D’Arienzo, W., 2016. Consumer Brand Engagement . In: Brand Management Strategies: Luxury and Mass Markets . New York: Fairchild Books, pp. 231-254.

All pictures are cited throughout with references in the list. Any without are citations are from Pexels or Pixabay

BURBERRY