Guide to
Off the Beaten Path in Africa
Fair Trade Safaris
Khetrapal
About Saurabh Khetrapal
After spending his formative years in East Africa (Tanzania and Kenya), Saurabh moved to the United States in 1990. During the intervening years, Saurabh has become a highly successful serial entrepreneur who has founded three organizations and is an angel investor in Silicon Valley, CA, and Austin, TX, as well as a prolific philanthropist and traveler across his home continent.
From a very young age, Saurabh has been passionate about projects that help those in need. In high school, he went on weekly visits to orphanages in Dar-es-Salaam (Tanzania) and was a frequent volunteer at nearby leprosy villages where he helped in the construction of hospitals and clinics. As an adult, Saurabh (alongside his family) has lent his support to the South African Baphumelele Educare Centre and Children’s Home for children abandoned/orphaned by the HIV/AIDS epidemic.
Saurabh and his family are also currently assisting community-based organizations in townships and slums across East Africa and Southern Africa. Their financial contributions and mentorship assist local leaders and residents in their aspirations to develop and advance development projects within their communities.
A self-professed wildlife junkie and addict of the African bush, Saurabh Khetrapal has been on numerous safaris across all the major wildlife parks and reserves in Africa since the age of 8. He is deeply passionate about his homeland and its peoples.
Founded in 2019 by siblings Ayaan Khetrapal and Zoya Khetrapal - who were 8 years old and 6 years old at the time - Wildlife Superheroes is a global nonprofit organization that mobilizes our next generation - kids between the ages of 0 and 18 years old - to make a tangible, meaningful, and lasting impact on our most valuable shared asset: Mother Earth and all her beings. Our credo is guided by the age-old principle that Wildlife Superheroes is Of the Kids, By the Kids, and For the Kids.
Empowering Future Generations
Wildlife
Measurable Impact Through Sustainable Tourism Fair Trade Safaris
Fair Trade Safaris is is a luxury travel company with a keen focus on providing guests with extraordinary experiences at remarkably affordable prices – breathtaking wildlife safaris, stunning beach vacations, exhilarating mountain climbing expeditions, sublime culinary experiences, and relaxing retreats. Founder Saurabh Khetrapal – who is originally from East Africa (Tanzania & Kenya) – is a philanthropist at his core. His passion for Africa, conservation, and culture motivated him to create the only luxury travel company that donates 100% of its profits to a variety of fully vetted wildlife conservations, community development, and social impact projects.
It is no secret that the wildlife in Africa is under tremendous pressure; many species are alarmingly at the brink of extinction. So, Fair Trade Safaris collaborates with several conservation / anti-poaching organizations including WildAid, Global Wildlife Conservation, PAMS Foundation, KopeLion, and other similar groups in order to combat wildlife poaching and trafficking and to promote conservation and protection efforts.
Madagascar
Situated 300 miles east of mainland Africa, Madagascar is a lushly vegetated tropical island whose long Indian Ocean coastline is adorned with picturesque swimming beaches. What sets the so-called Eighth Continent apart, however, is its staggering biodiversity: a tally of 10,000 unique plant and animal species, including more than 100 varieties of lemur, and a similar diversity of endemic chameleons and birds, protected in a network of roughly 50 hiker-friendly national parks.
At a Glance/Highlights
▶ The verdant volcanic islet of Nosy Be, hemmed in by a series of gorgeous palmlined beaches, functions as a self-standing holiday destination complete with its own international airport. Activities include snorkeling, whale-watching, wining and dining, hikes to crater lakes, and boat trips to see the habituated black lemurs of Nosy Komba.
▶ If you visit only one national park, make it Andasibe-Mantadia. The main attraction of this accessible park is the presence of Madagascar’s largest lemur, the Critically Endangered indri, a cuddlesome panda lookalike with an unforgettable far-carrying call. Several other lemurs occur here alongside a wealth of endemic birds, frogs, chameleons and orchids.
▶ The capital Antananarivo has been the political hub of Madagascar for more than 400 years. Precolonial edifices include the three-story Manjakamiadana Palace, constructed over 1839-40, and the hilltop Rova Ambohimanga, an out-of-town UNESCO World Heritage Site dotted with palaces and tombs dating back to the 18th century.
▶ Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Tsingy de Bemaraha is the world’s largest ‘stone forest’, a surreal 50-mile-long karstic formation of tall jagged limestone pinnacles and labyrinthine valleys that supports a rich xerophile flora and fauna.
▶ The towering 800-year-old Grandidier’s baobabs of the Allée des Baobabs are most photogenic in the golden light of sunset.
▶ Set in the semi-arid southwest, Isalo National Park is a popular hiking venue notable for its evocative eroded sandstone formations, otherworldly succulent flora, and the opportunity to see the charismatic Verreaux’s sifaka and ring-tailed lemur.
▶ Guided hikes and river kayaking are on offer in Ranamofana National Park, an accessible and biodiverse tract of rainforest that supports 12 lemur and 115 bird species.
Practical Stuff
Visas and paperwork
US citizens require a valid passport and visa to enter Madagascar. Single entry tourist visas for stays of up to 90 days can be bought on arrival, or you can obtain an e-visa in advance.
Getting there
Serviced by several international carriers, Ivato International Airport (TNR), 10 miles north of Antananarivo, is the main hub for domestic flights and tours. Flights to Nosy Be’s Fascene Airport (NOS) cater mainly to people on package holidays to this popular standalone beach destination.
When to visit
April to November offers dry and relatively cool conditions ideal for beach holidays and exploring the national parks. If your timing isn’t dictated by European school holidays, avoid the peak months of July and August. The rainy season of December to March is also best avoided.
Health and safety
The risk of contracting Malaria is highest in the rainy season and in low lying areas; nevertheless, is it advisable to take prophylactic drugs wherever and whenever you visit. Crime levels are low, but it pays to be cautious and to avoid walking after dark in the capital Antananarivo. Nocturnal travel in rural areas is inadvisable due to a small but real risk of bandit attacks.
Malawi
Friendly and easygoing Malawi is dominated by the stunningly beautiful 350-mile-long lake with which it shares its name. Traditionally, travel has focused not on safaris and wildlife but rather on the many backpacker-friendly beach resorts that line the idyllic western shore of Lake Malawi. This is changing, however, following a recent rehabilitation and reintroduction program that has elevated Liwonde National Park and Majete Wildlife Reserve to rewarding off-the-beaten-track safari destinations that host all the Big Five.
▶ Lined with palm-fringed beaches and hemmed in by a sheer Rift Valley escarpment, Lake Malawi offers enough to keep laidback travelers busy for weeks. For stunning scenery, relaxed kayaking and snorkeling among a whirl of colorful cichlids, Cape Maclear is hard to beat. Further north, the supremely chilled village of Nkhata Bay offers the world’s cheapest diving courses. Then there is the cruise on MV Ilala to time-warped Likoma Island, one of Africa’s great public transport rides.
▶ Liwonde National Park is dominated by the Shire River, a compellingly sluggish palm-fringed waterway that supports a dense hippo population, some massive crocodiles, and an incredible variety of birds. Other wildlife includes large herds of elephant and buffalo, and decent populations of lion, leopard and black rhino. Game drives, boat trips and guided walks are all available.
▶ Subject of a recent translocation program involving 3,200 individual animals, Majete Wildlife Reserve vies with Liwonde as Malawi’s top safari destination. As with Liwonde, all the Big Five are present. Other wildlife includes cheetah, spotted hyena, giraffe, zebra, hippo, while activities include night drives, nature walks and cultural village visits.
▶ Malawi’s largest protected area, the 1,250-square-mile Nyika National Park protects a lofty granite plateau whose undulating grassland is incised by sheer wooded gorges. A popular hiking destination known for its spectacular highland scenery, the plateau also supports elephant, zebra, eland, roan antelope and leopard, along with 200 orchid and 400+ bird species.
Practical Stuff
Visas and paperwork
US citizens visiting Malawi require a valid passport and visa. Tourist visas for stays of up to three months can be bought on arrival at any airport or land border.
Getting there
Most international flights land at Kamuzu International Airport (LLW), which lies 15 miles outside the capital Lilongwe. There are also flights to Chileka Airport 10 miles north of the city of Blantyre.
When to visit
The best time to visit is over the dry winter months of May to October. The climate is very pleasant over this period, the risk of malaria is lower than in summer, and game viewing is excellent. Summer can be uncomfortably hot, but the scenery is greener, and it is the best time of year for birdwatching.
Health and safety
Malaria is prevalent throughout Malawi, particularly along the low-lying lakeshore. It is essential to take prophylactic drugs. Bilharzia is also present in parts of the lake. Crime levels are low, but it pays to be cautious and to avoid walking after dark in the cities of Blantyre and Lilongwe.
Mauritius
The ultimate tropical beach destination, Mauritius is a volcanic island that rises from the Indian Ocean floor 1,200 miles off the coast of Africa. The 200-mile coastline is fringed by any number of gorgeous palm-lined white sandy beaches, and serviced by a world-class selection of resorts catering to all tastes and budgets. A diverse island flora and fauna includes many endemic species (most famously the dodo, which can now only be seen in museums), while an offshore coral reef, the world’s third-largest, is a magnet for divers and snorkelers. The state of Mauritius also incorporates Rodrigues, which is a popular beach tourism destination its own right, and a number of uninhabited islets now protected as nature reserves.
▶ Mauritius’s beaches conform to every expectation of a tropical Indian Ocean paradise. The traditional center of seaside tourism is the award-winning Trou Aux Biches, and the run of north-coast beaches between it and Pereybere is difficult to fault, not least on account of its agreeable year-round climate. For those seeking a more remote beach hideaway, it’s also worth considering the beaches of the east, west and south coast.
▶ The diversity of Mauritian culture - 48% Hindu, 33% Christian, 17% Muslim - is personified by the capital city, Port Louis. Here, grandiose 18th-century colonial edifices stand alongside characterful traditional wooden homesteads and gracious temples representing all three of the island’s main religions. Points of interest include the waterfront Blue Penny Museum, the historic Central Market, and the out-of-town Pamplemousses Botanical Garden, which is the oldest such institution in the southern hemisphere, having been founded in 1770.
▶ The extensive and largely unspoiled coral reefs off Mauritius offer superb conditions for diving and snorkeling. In addition to a dazzling array of colorful reef fish, the offshore waters are home to dolphins, whales and giant marine turtles.
▶ A must for hikers and birdwatchers, the 26-square-mile Black River Gorges National Park protects most of the island’s remaining rainforest as well as its highest peak, the 2717ft Piton de la Petite Riviere Noire. Crisscrossed by a network of walking trails, the park harbors many of the island’s 700 unique plant species and all eight of its endemic birds. It is easily visited in conjunction with Chamarel Waterfall, which plunges more than 300 feet into a deep forest-fringed pool.
▶ A total of 49 islets stand off the Mauritian coast, many home to marine bird breeding colonies or endemic reptiles and other wildlife. Eight of these islands are protected in the Islets National Park while another half dozen have been set aside as nature reserves.
Practical Stuff
Visas and paperwork
US citizens carrying a valid passport do not require a visa for tourist visits of up to 60 days.
Getting there
Most tourists to Mauritius arrive at Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam International Airport (MRU), southeast of Port Louis.
When to visit
Mauritius can be visited throughout the year. Late December to early March is the wettest period and best avoided if lounging on the beach is your main priority, but these months tend to offer the clearest conditions for diving. Peak season is early summer, from October to December, while the winter months of May to September are more temperate and beaches are quieter.
Health and safety
Malaria was eradicated in the 1950s. Crime is not a major cause of concern, but be alert to the possibility of pickpockets and other petty thieves in busy markets and streets in Port Louis.
Mozambique
Boasting 2,500km of tropical Indian Ocean frontage, Mozambique is first and foremost a beach destination, one often appended to safari itineraries to the landlocked likes of Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe. The innumerable palm-lined beaches of this Lusophone country are as attractive to sunbathers and swimmers as they are to snorkelers, divers and game fisherman, but the coast is also studded with historic ports, notably the timewarped former capital Ilha do Moçambique. As things stand, Mozambique doesn’t rank highly as a safari destination, but the potential is there, with Gorongosa National Park being the pick of a scattering of sanctuaries that also includes the vast but remote Niassa Reserve and more accessible Maputo Special Reserve.
Highlights
▶ From Ponto do Ouro, sent below tall forested dunes on the border with South Africa, to sprawling Inhassoro 500 miles to the north, Mozambique’s uncrowded south coast beaches are invariably lovely. None more so perhaps then the unerringly beautiful Tofo Beach, where marine safaris offer the opportunity to see the gargantuan plankton-eating whale shark and manta ray.
▶ Bazaruto National Park protects an offshore archipelago of small sandy islands and pristine coral reefs renowned for their world-class snorkeling and diving. Marine life includes whales, dolphins, turtles, and what is probably East Africa’s last viable population of the Endangered dugong.
▶ The most characterful capital city in subequatorial Africa, Maputo possesses a unique Afro-Mediterranean cocktail of shady jacaranda and palm-lined avenidas, mismatched colonial architecture, and lively street and beach cafés serving fresh seafood and Portuguese-style peri-peri chicken.
▶ A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Ilha do Moçambique, ipso facto capital of Portuguese East Africa from 1530 until 1898, is studded with centuries-old edifices, including the southern hemisphere’s oldest European-built fortress and church. This rich architectural legacy blends with a Swahili-influenced contemporary culture, making it a fascinating place to explore on foot.
▶ Mozambique’s top safari destination, the 2,000-square-mile Gorongosa National Park one supported wildlife densities to rival the Serengeti. Animal numbers are gradually recovering from the intensive poaching of the 1970s and 80s, and visitors are likely to see elephant, buffalo and lion, along with a good variety of antelope and aquatic birds.
Practical Stuff
Visas and paperwork
US citizens require a valid passport and visa. Immigration rulings for Mozambique are notoriously ambiguous and changeable, so it is vital to obtain a visa in advance.
Getting there
Most international flights land at Maputo International Airport (MPM), which has connections to most other cities in Mozambique. A popular option for the south coast is to fly into South Africa and self-drive from there; Maputo is only 70 miles from the Kruger Park on a good surfaced road.
When to visit
The best time to visit is over the dry and relatively cool winter months of April to October. It is possible to visit in summer, but it can be uncomfortably hot, and rainfall is much higher, as is the risk of contracting malaria.
Health and safety
Malaria is present and it is essential to take prophylactic drugs. Street crime is prevalent in Maputo; avoid walking after dark and carrying any unnecessary valuables.
Police in Mozambique have a reputation for trying to secure bribes from self-drive visitors.
The far north of Mozambique, an area seldom visited by tourists, is currently experiencing an outbreak of violent Islamic extremism and should be avoided.
Politically motivated banditry has been a sporadic concern in the vicinity of Gorongosa National Park, so check the current situation before heading this way.
Rwanda
From a travel perspective, Rwanda is practically synonymous with mountain gorillas. It was here, in 1967, on the forested slopes of the spectacular Virunga volcanoes, that Dian Fossey initiated her celebrated study of mountain gorillas, and here too that the Oscarnominated movie Gorillas in the Mist was filmed. Unsurprisingly, gorilla tracking is now Rwanda’s most popular tourist activity, so much so that it’s become conventional to tag a pitstop visit for that sole reason onto a safari elsewhere in Africa. But Rwanda can also lay claim to being a worthwhile standalone ecotourism destination. Big Five safaris can be undertaken in the revitalized Akagera National Park, chimps and a diverse assembly of rare birds and monkeys inhabit Nyungwe National Park, while the mountain-ringed shores of Lake Kivu provide an opportunity to enjoy some downtime.
Highlights
▶ Straddling the northwest border with Uganda and the Congo, Volcanoes National Park protects the Rwandan portion of the Virunga, a series of imperious freestanding volcanoes whose forested slopes provide sanctuary to the same mountain gorilla groups studied by Dian Fossey. Gorilla tracking is the most popular activity, with 96 permits available daily to visit 12 different habituated groups, and it surely ranks among the world’s most thrilling and engaging wildlife encounters. Other activities include tracking Endangered golden monkeys, hiking to Fossey’s former research center and tomb at Karisoke, and the steep ascent to the lovely crater lake at the summit of 12,175ft Mount Bisoke.
▶ One of the most scenic savanna reserves anywhere in Africa, Akagera National Park protects a diverse landscape of acacia woodland, open grassland and rocky outcrops dipping towards a labyrinthine network of swamps and lakes fed by the Kagera River. An exciting program of reintroduction undertaken since 2010 means this park is now home to all the Big Five (lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and black rhino), along with large numbers of hippo and giraffe, a dozen species of antelope, while a checklist of 530 birds includes shoebill and many other aquatic species. Game drives can be supplemented with boat trips, guided walks and night drives.
▶ Protecting the largest extant block of Afromontane forest in East or Central Africa, Nyungwe National Park is renowned for its exceptional biodiversity. L’Hoest’s monkey is the most conspicuous of 13 primate species, but visitors can also track habituated chimpanzees and a hyperactive troop of 400+ Angola colobus monkeys. A checklist of 270 bird species includes 26 Albertine Rift endemics, while botanical treats include other-worldly giant lobelias and 200 varieties of orchid.
▶ Running for 100km along the Congolese border, beautiful Lake Kivu is hemmed in by the steep green hills of the Albertine Rift escarpment. The most popular resort town is Rubavu (Gisenyi), a short drive west of Volcanoes National Park.
▶ Among the safest, cleanest and prettiest capital cities in Africa, Kigali may not rank among Africa’s great cities, but nobody should leave Rwanda without paying a visit to the harrowing Kigali Genocide Memorial, which opened in April 2004, the tenth anniversary of the genocide that claimed up to one million lives in the space of three months.
▶ The university town of Huye (Butare) is the site of the National Museum of Rwanda, which houses some fine ethnographic collections. On nearby Nyanza Hill, the royal palace constructed in 1899 for King Musinga Yuhi V – an enormous domed structure made of traditional organic materials – has been rebuilt as a museum.
Practical Stuff
Visas and paperwork
A visa is required by all US visitors to Rwanda. For tourist visits of up to 30 days, these can be bought on arrival by air at any land border provided your passport is valid. Those spending longer in the country should buy an e-visa in advance.
Getting there
All international flights to Rwanda land at Kigali International Airport, which is situated on the eastern outskirts of the capital. There are no direct flights from the US, but several African, European and Middle Eastern airlines offer connecting flights.
When to visit
Rwanda can be visited at any time, but gorilla tracking tends to be least challenging in the relatively dry months of June to September and December to February. Conversely, last-minute gorilla tracking permits are most readily available over the low season of March to May.
Health and safety
Malaria is present in most parts of Rwanda and prophylactics are recommended to all visitors.
Crime levels are low, but it is not advisable to walk after dark in Kigali.
Eswatini (Swaziland)
Enclosed by South Africa on three sides, Eswatini (literally ‘Home of the Swazi’) is Africa’s last surviving absolute monarchy. The small kingdom is almost invariably visited as an extension to a road trip through South Africa, from which it differs in possessing a more traditional feel and greater cultural homogeneity. As safari destinations go, Eswatini is decidedly second tier, but a handful of small reserves and national parks do offer the opportunity to track rhinos on foot. Welcoming and culturally interesting, it is largely free of the post-apartheid tensions associated with South Africa, while the Great Usutu Rapids and Sibebe Rock both offer a unique experience to adrenaline junkies.
Highlights
▶ The kingdom’s major tourist hub, Ezulwini Valley has two main highlights. Mlilwane Nature Reserve offers the opportunity to view reintroduced wildlife on horseback or on self-guided foot trails. Mantenga Nature Reserve, set below the foreboding Execution Rock (over which convicted murderers were hurled in precolonial times) houses a reconstructed Swazi village where virtuoso traditional musical performances are held.
▶ Africa’s answer to Ayers Rock, the magnificent Sibebe Rock is an immense, sparsely vegetated granite dome that can be ascended over three knee-wobbling hours on what is reputedly the world’s steepest commercial walk.
▶ The Great Usutu River incorporates the most challenging stretch of southern African white water that can safely be tackled in self-paddled rafts. The turbulent Grade I-IV rapids run through a starkly beautiful valley of black volcanic outcrops that also provides excellent abseiling.
▶ The kingdom’s largest wildlife sanctuary, Hlane National Park protects a tract of acacia woodland originally set aside as a royal hunting ground. In addition to naturally occurring large mammals such as spotted hyena, zebra, nyala and greater kudu, the likes of lion, cheetah, elephant and white rhino have been reintroduced. Thrilling guided game walks routinely involve close-up encounters with white rhino and elephant.
▶ Established as a refuge for endangered species such as roan and sable antelope, Mkhaya Game Reserve is an upmarket counterpart to Hlane, offering all-inclusive packages out of a luxuriously rustic riverside lodge. Close encounters with both types of rhino can be expected, and the birding is excellent.
Practical Stuff
Visas and paperwork
US citizens with a valid passport don’t require a visa for tourist visits of up to 30 days.
Getting there
International flight options are very limited. Practically all tourists enter and exit Eswatini through overland borders with South Africa, traveling en route between Johannesburg or the Kruger National Park and the province of KwaZulu-Natal.
When to visit
The timing of a visit to Eswatini is likely to be dictated by that of a broader itinerary focused on South Africa. If you’re visiting in isolation, game viewing is best over the dry, cool winter months of April to October. The scenery is greener in summer, and birdwatching is superior.
Health and safety
Parts of Eswatini fall into a low-risk malaria area, so it may be advisable to take prophylactic drugs.
Street crime is a low-key problem in the cities of Manzini and Mbabane.
Self-drivers coming from South Africa should be aware that livestock on the roads is more prevalent in Eswatini.
Seychelles
The Seychelles is a remote archipelago nation comprising some 42 granitic, 113 coral and seven reclaimed Indian Ocean islands 1,000 miles off the coast of Kenya. The islands are renowned for their scenic and largely unspoiled beaches, but there is more to them than just a stock seaside vacation. The Seychelles harbors a rich diversity of marine wildlife and terrestrial endemics, and its commitment to conservation - more than 40% of the land and several marine zones are protected in national parks and other reserves – makes it a rewarding ecotourism destination.
Highlights
▶ Mahé, the largest and most populous island, is fringed by several of the Seychelles’ most alluring beaches. Many, including Anse Intendance, Petite Anse and Anse Louis, are serviced by luxury resorts, whereas others - notably the idyllic Anse Major, protected within the Morne Seychellois National Park - remain totally undeveloped and are accessible only by boat or on foot.
▶ The capital Victoria, established on the northeast coast of Mahé in 1778, retains a likable small-town atmosphere and can easily be explored on foot. Highlights include the central Victoria Market, a number of colonial architectural relicts, several old churches and colorful Hindu temples, and the 120-year-old botanical garden.
▶ La Digue, the archipelago’s fourthlargest and arguably most beautiful island, is renowned for its superb beaches. Foremost among these is the photogenic Anse Source d’Argent, which is fringed by balancing formations of eroded granite boulders and often cited as the world’s most beautiful beach. The somewhat more remote Grand Anse and Anse Cocos are most usually reached by a combination of cycling and walking.
▶ A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Praslin Island’s Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve protects the archipelago’s most pristine and largest remaining palm forest. It contains six species of endemic palm, notably the Coco de Mer, with its unique heart-shaped twin coconut. Vallée de Mai is the only remaining nesting site for the Seychelles black parrot, while other endemics include Seychelles kestrel, Seychelles blue pigeon and Seychelles sunbird.
▶ Protected in a network of marine reserves, the uninhabited islets of the Outer Seychelles form an important breeding site for 18 marine bird species, notably the spectacular red-tailed tropicbird, white-tailed tropicbird, greater frigatebird and great crested tern. The coral reefs around the islets also offer some superb snorkeling and diving opportunities.
Practical Stuff
Visas and paperwork
US citizens do not require a visa to visit the Seychelles, and will be issued a free three-month visitor pass on arrival, provided they are carrying a valid passport.
Getting there
International flights land at Aéroport de la Pointe Larue, also known as Seychelles International Airport (SEZ), which is located on Mahé near the capital Victoria. There are no direct flights from the USA but many African, European and Middle Eastern carriers offer connecting flights from North America.
When to visit
The Seychelles can be visited at any time of year. The shoulder seasons, which fall over April to May and October to November, are ideal climatically and tend not to be that busy. The rainiest months are January and February.
Health and safety
There is no malaria in the Seychelles. Crime levels are very low, but there are occasional incidents of pickpocketing and other petty theft in Victoria.
Uganda
Roughly half the world’s mountain gorillas inhabit the highland forests of Uganda. And tracking these magnificent gentle giants through their natural habitat in Bwindi or Mgahinga National parks is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience, one that prompts many people to tag a short stop in Uganda onto a safari elsewhere in Africa. Uganda can also lay claim to hosting Africa’s most biodiverse safari destination, combining elements of the eastern savanna and western jungle with a wide variety of aquatic habitats and the lofty peaks of the volcanic Virungas and snowcapped Rwenzori. Uganda is probably Africa’s premier birdwatching destination, with more than 1,000 species recorded in an area smaller than the state of Oregon.
Highlights
▶ Bwindi Impenetrable National Park hosts 18 habituated mountain gorilla groups and issues 144 daily tracking permits, which often need to be booked long in advance. The park’s steep jungle-swathed hills are exceptionally scenic, and faunal diversity includes 120 mammal species, most conspicuously black-and-white colobus and L’Hoest’s monkey. It’s a key birdwatching site, with 23 Albertine Rift Endemics listed among 350 recorded bird species.
▶ Uganda’s other gorilla tracking venue, Mgahinga National Park protects a single habituated group on the bamboo-swathed northern slopes of the Virungas. Other activities include tracking the Endangered golden monkey and challenging day ascents to the volcanic peaks of Muhavura (13,540ft), Sabyinyo (12,037ft) and Gahinga (11,394 ft).
▶ Uganda is home to an estimated 5,000 chimpanzees. The pick of several chimp tracking sites is Kibale Forest National Park, which also hosts 10 different types of monkey, most conspicuously black-and-white colobus, Ugandan red colobus, redtailed monkey and the endemic Uganda mangabey.
▶ Queen Elizabeth National Park is a contender for East Africa’s most biodiverse reserve, as reflected in a bird checklist of 600+ species, exceeding that of many national parks ten times its size. Highlights include the tree-climbing lions of the Ishasha sector and hippo-dodging boat trips on the Kazinga Channel, which attracts large herds of elephant and buffalo.
▶ Uganda’s largest conservation area, Murchison Falls National Park is focused on the eponymous waterfall, where the Nile explodes cacophonously through a narrow cleft in the Rift Valley. Boat trips to the base of the falls are pure magic, while game drives offer a chance of seeing four of the big five (elephant, buffalo, lion and leopard) along with the localized Rothschild’s giraffe and patas monkey.
▶ White rhino have been reintroduced to Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, where they can be tracked on foot (a truly thrilling experience) en route between Entebbe and Murchison Falls.
▶ Shortly below its source on Lake Victoria (Africa’s largest freshwater body) near the town of Jinja, the mighty Nile River offers some of the world’s finest white water rafting.
▶ Entebbe, site of Uganda’s only international airport, is an attractive green town on the Lake Victoria shore. It’s the base for visits to the chimpanzee orphanage on Ngamba Island, and the sprawling Mabamba Swamp, which supports a wealth of aquatic birds including the bizarre shoebill.
Practical Stuff
Visas and paperwork
US citizens must carry a passport valid for at least six months after their intended departure date. A visa can usually be obtained on arrival, but safer to buy an e-visa in advance.
Getting there
All international flights to Uganda land at Entebbe International Airport, which stands on the Lake Victoria shore 25 miles south of the capital Kampala. There are no direct flights from the US, but several African, European and Middle Eastern airlines offer connections. Visitors whose Uganda itinerary is limited to tracking gorillas could think about flying into the Rwandan capital Kigali, which is significantly closer to Bwindi and Mgahinga.
When to visit
Uganda can be visited at any time of year. Because the country is bisected by the equator, seasonal temperature variation is relatively insignificant. Rain is a possibility at all times, but gorilla tracking tends to be least challenging in the relatively dry months of June to September and December to February. Conversely, it is easiest to obtain last-minute gorilla tracking permits in April or May, which is the low season.
Health and safety
Malaria is present in most parts of Uganda, the only exception being the higher reaches of the Rwenzori and Virunga Mountains. Malaria prophylactics are recommended to all visitors.
Crime levels are low outside Kampala, and few tourists spend time in this city.
Although Uganda now enjoys a high level of stability, the neighboring Democratic Republic of the Congo and South Sudan remain volatile, so it might be worth checking the situation in border areas prior to your visit.
