Arwen by Fabjan

Arwen

by Kate Gilbert www.kategilbert.com When an Elfin princess takes a holiday from fighting the forces of evil she might throw on this comfy cardigan to go shopping and grab a latté. Made in only three pieces, Arwen features reversible cabled panels that are cleverly grafted together at the top of the hood and at the sleeve seams to form a continuous band. Folded back, they become cuffs and a collar. This little jacket is meant to be comfortable and easy to wear, so choose a soft yarn and make a size larger to allow for some wiggle room. F i nishe d si ze bust measures 33 ½ (37 ¼, 40 ¾, 45 ¼, 48 ¾, 53 ¼)” (85.1 [94.6, 103.5, 115, 123.8, 135.3]cm) 37 ¼” (94.6cm) sweater shown

Ne e dle s US 8 (5mm) and US 7 (4.5mm): straight. US 6 (4mm): double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size to obtain the correct gauge.

Yarn Shown in Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran (55% merino wool, 33% microfibre, 12% cashmere) #300202 light blue; 1 ¾ oz / 50g = 98.5 yards (90 metres). Requires 13 (14, 14, 15, 16, 17) balls.

Notions Cable needle, tapestry needle, stitch holders, stitch markers. Gauge 18 sts and 26 rows = 4” (10cm) in St st on US 8 (5mm) needles.

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Abbre v i ations:

bind off

cast on

est

established

make one stitch

ssp slip two stitches to the right needle as if to knit, then purl them together through the back loops ssk slip two stitches to the right needle as if to knit, then knit them together through the back loops St st

stockinette stitch

note s:

• This sweater is meant to be loose fitting. • The sweater is worked in three pieces: The back, the right front/sleeve/hood and the left front/sleeve/hood. See diagram for details. • To accurately measure length while knitting, tug cable panel to lie flat and measure stockiLe f t F ront, Sle e ve , Hood

nette section. Cable bands will relax once

Hem: Using US 7 (4.5mm) needles and a long tail cast

they are blocked.

on, CO 31 (35, 39, 44, 48, 52) sts. Beginning with a purl row, work in St st until piece measures 1 ½” (3.8cm) from cast on edge, ending with a RS row (knit). Fold line: (WS) Change to US 8 (5mm) needles and k

1 row to create fold line. Front: K one row. At end of row, without turning (knit

side is facing you), cast on 26 additional sts on the right hand needle using the backward loop method. These sts will form the center cable band. 57 (61, 65, 70, 74, 78) sts. Next Row: (WS) Using the Left Cable chart, work

set-up row over first 24 sts, place stitch marker (to mark difference between cable band and body), p1, ssp (decreases 1 st, tightens new sts to body), p to end. 56 (60, 64, 69, 73, 77) sts. Next Row: (RS) K 32 (36, 40, 45, 49, 53). Slip marker.

Work row 1 of Left Cable chart. Next Row: Continue as est, following rows 1 – 8 of

Left Cable chart for cable band and working in St st for the body, (note: only work set-up row once—do not repeat) until work measures 12 (12, 12 ¼, 11, 11 ¼, 11 ¾ )”

(30.5 [30.5, 31, 28, 28.5, 30]cm) from fold line, ending with a WS row. Break yarn. Sleeve: Using backward loop method, CO 90 (92, 94,

96, 96, 98) sts onto empty needle. Place marker to mark division between sleeve and body. Using yarn attached to end of new sts, work across front sts as est—this is a RS row. 146 (152, 158, 165, 169, 175) sts total. Next Row: (WS) Work cable band as est, p to last 24

sts, place marker (to mark difference between sleeve and cuff), work set up row of Left Cable chart over last 24 sts. Next Row: (RS) Work row 1 of Left Cable chart, work

as est to end. Shape sleeve using short rows: Short Row 1: (WS) Work front as est up to sleeve

marker, p 9 (10, 12, 14, 14, 17), wrap next stitch (hold yarn to back, slip next stitch purlwise, hold yarn to front and slip stitch back to left needle) and turn work. Short Row 2: (RS) Work to end of row as est

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Shor t Row 3: (WS) Work as est to wrapped stitch, purl

stitch together with its wrap (as a p2tog), p10, wrap next stitch, turn work. Shor t Row 4: (RS) Work to end of row as est Shor t Row 5 – 12: Repeat short rows 3 and 4 four

sts together with their wraps as a p2tog, work row 4 of Left Cable chart. Work 2 rows as est, ending with row 6 of Left Cable chart.

stitch with its wrap as a p2tog, p to last 24 sts, work row 2 of Left Cable chart.

Sleeve measures approx 13 ½ (13 ½, 13 ½, 16, 16, 16)” (34.5 [34.5, 34.5, 40.5, 40.5, 40.5] cm) from sleeve CO at division between front and sleeve, and approx. 10 (10, 10, 12 ½, 12 ½, 12 ½)” (25.5 [25.5, 25.5, 32, 32, 32] cm) from sleeve CO at cuff end. Break yarn, leaving a 16” (40.6 cm) tail.

Next Row: (RS) Work row 3 of Left Cable chart, then

Graft Cuff Stitches: With a size 6 (4mm) dpn, slip the

more times. You will have wrapped six sts, five of which you have purled together with their wraps. Next Row: (WS) Work in pattern to wrapped stitch, p

finish row as est. Work 28 (28, 28, 36, 36, 36) more rows as est. Piece will measure approx. 18 ¾ (18 ¾, 19, 19, 19 ¼, 19 ¾)” (47.5 [47.5, 48, 48, 49, 50]cm) from fold line along center front edge; 6 ¾ (6 ¾, 6 ¾, 8, 8, 8)” ( 17 [17, 17, 20.5, 20.5, 20.5] cm) from sleeve cast on edge at division between front and sleeve; 5 (5, 5, 6 ¼, 6 ¼, 6 ¼)” (13 [13, 13, 16, 16, 16] cm) from sleeve cast on edge at cuff end. Shape Shoulder: (WS) Work 24 sts of cable band,

p9 (11, 13, 15, 16, 19), and place these 33 (35, 37, 39, 40, 43) sts on holder, (these sts will form the hood), BO next 23 (25, 27, 30, 33, 34) to form shoulder, and work as est to the end of the row. 90 (92, 94, 96, 96, 98) sts remain. (note: keep a record of the last pattern row worked on the front cable band, so you start on the correct row when you work the hood) Work 27 (27, 27, 35, 35, 35) more rows as est, ending with RS Row 3 of Left Cable chart. Shape sleeve using shor t rows: Shor t row 1: (WS) P until 8 sts remain before cuff

cuff sts as if knitting row 7 of the Left Cable chart, using cable needle to rearrange the sts. With a second dpn, pick up 24 cuff sts from the cast on row. Thread the tail through a tapestry needle and use the Kitchener stitch to graft the rearranged Row 7 sts to the cast on sts. Cuff should appear seamless on the inside and the outside. With RS facing, rejoin yarn and loosely BO remaining sleeve sts. Work Hood: (RS) Using the backward loop method,

CO 17 (18, 20, 22, 23, 23) sts onto a size 8 (5mm) needle, then slip the 33 (35, 37, 39, 40, 43) front sts off their holder and onto the other size 8 (5mm) needle with the RS facing. With yarn attached to the new sts, work front sts as est—all sts will now be on the same needle. 50 (53, 57, 61, 63, 66) sts total. Working hood sts in St st and cable band as est, work 9 (11, 15, 29, 0, 0) rows, ending with a WS row. Sizes 33 ½ (37 ¼, 40 ¾, 45 ¼)” (85.1 [94 .6, 103.5, 115]cm) only: Next (Increase) Row: (RS) K2, M1, work in pattern to

Shor t Row 2: (RS) K

end of row—1 st increased at center back edge. Continue as est, repeating Increase Row every 8th (10th, 14th, 28th) row 8 (7, 4, 1) more time(s). 59 (61, 62, 63) sts.

Shor t Row 3: (WS) P to 10 sts before st wrapped in last

All Sizes:

WS row, wrap next stitch, turn.

Work as est across all 59 (61, 62, 63, 63, 66) sts until hood measures approx. 13” (33cm) from hood CO, ending with WS row 6 of Left Cable chart. (note: it is more important to end on row 6 than to have exactly 13” [33 cm] of hood) Break yarn, leaving a tail 3 to 4 times as long as the width of the hood—you will use this tail to graft the left hood sts to the right hood sts.

marker, wrap next stitch and turn.

Shor t Row 4: (RS) K Shor t Rows 5 – 12: Rep Short Rows 3 and 4 four

more times—6 wrapped sts. Next Row: (WS) P to cuff marker, working all wrapped

If you want to further widen your sleeves, add one chart repeat before the shoulder bind off and one after, keeping in mind that adding width to your sleeves will increase the overall length of your sweater by 1 ¼ in (3 cm) per pair of added charts.

Next Row: (RS) Place 35 (37, 38, 39, 39, 42) sts on a

holder, then slip cable panel sts onto a dpn as per row 7 of the Left Cable chart, using cable needle to rearrange the sts. Slip the rearranged sts onto the holder. R ight F ront, Sle e ve , Hood Hem and Fold line: Work as for Left front.

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Left Cable

Next Row: (WS) Work set up row of Right Cable chart 7 5

over first 24 sts, place marker (to mark difference between sleeve and cuff), p to front cable band marker and work as est

Next Row: (RS) Work in established pattern to last 24

sts, work row 1 of right cable chart over right cuff sts.

set up row (WS)

Next Row: (WS) Work row 2 of Right Cable chart,

work as est to end of row. Shape sleeve using short rows: Short Row 1: (RS) Work front as est up to sleeve marker,

Right Cable 7 5 3 1 set up row (WS)

k 9 (10, 12, 14, 14, 17), wrap next stitch and turn. Short Row 2: (WS) Work to end of row as est Short Row 3: (RS) Work as est to wrapped st, k st

together with its wrap (as a k2tog), k10, wrap next stitch, turn. Short Row 4: (WS) Work to end of row as est Short Row 5 – 12: Repeat short rows 3 and 4 four

k on RS, p on WS p on RS, k on WS sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, k2 from cn sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, k2 from cn

more times. You will have wrapped 6 sts, 5 of which you have knitted together with their wraps. Next Row: (RS) Work as est to wrapped stitch, k st

with its wrap as a k2tog, k to last 24 sts, work row 3 of Right Cable chart.

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, p2 from cn

Next Row: (WS) Work row 4 of Right Cable chart, then

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p2, k2 from cn

finish row as est

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, p2, p2 from cn sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p2, p2 from cn

Front: Break yarn. Cast on 26 sts on the empty needle.

These sts will form the center cable band. K front sts. 57 (61, 65, 70, 74, 78) sts. Next Row: (WS) P 30 (34, 38, 43, 47, 51), p2tog, pl,

place marker to mark division between cable band and front, work set-up row over last 24 sts using Right Cable chart. 56 (60, 64, 69, 73, 77) sts. Next Row: (RS) Work row 1 of Right Cable chart. K 32

(36, 40, 45, 49, 53). Next Row: Continue as est, following rows 1 – 8 of

Right Cable chart and working in St st for body, until piece measures 12 (12, 12 ¼, 11, 11 ¼, 11 ¾)” (30.5 [30.5, 31, 28, 28.5, 30]cm) from fold line, ending with a RS row. Sleeve: Place marker to mark division between sleeve

and body, then, using backwards loop cast on, CO 90 (92, 94, 96, 96, 98) sts onto the right hand needle. 146 (152, 158, 165, 169, 175) sts total, all on the same needle.

Work 28 (28, 28, 36, 36, 36) more rows as est Piece will measure approx. 18 ¾ (18 ¾, 19, 19, 19 ¼, 19 ¾)” (47.5 [47.5, 48, 48, 49, 50]cm) from fold line along center front; 6 ¾ (6 ¾, 6 ¾, 8, 8, 8)” ( 17 [17, 17, 20.5, 20.5, 20.5] cm) from sleeve cast on edge at division between front and sleeve; 5 (5, 5, 6 ¼, 6 ¼, 6 ¼)” (13 [13, 13, 16, 16, 16] cm) from sleeve cast on edge at cuff end. Shape Shoulder: (RS) Work cable band, k9 (11, 13,

15, 16, 19), and place these 33 (35, 37, 39, 40, 43) sts on a holder, (these sts will form the hood), BO next 23 (25, 27, 30, 33, 34) to form the shoulder, and work as est to end of row. 90 (92, 94, 96, 96, 98) sts. Work 27 (27, 27, 35, 35, 35) more rows as est, ending with RS row 4 of Right Cable chart. Shape sleeve using short rows: Short row 1: (RS) K to 8 sts before cuff marker, wrap

next stitch, turn. Short Row 2: (WS) P Short Row 3: (RS) K to10 sts before stitch wrapped in

last RS row, wrap next stitch, turn. Short Row 4: (WS) P Short Rows 5 – 12: Rep. Short Rows 3 and 4 four

more times—6 wrapped sts total.

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Next Row: (RS) K to cuff marker, working all wrapped

Sizes 33 ½ (37 ¼, 40 ¾, 45 ¼)” (85.1 [94 .6, 103.5, 115]cm) only:

sts together with their wraps as a k2tog, work row 5 of Right Cable chart.

Next (Increase) Row: (RS) Work as est to last two sts,

M1, k2—1 st increased at center back edge. Continue as est, repeating Increase Row every 8th (10th, 14th, 28th) row 8 (7, 4, 1) more time(s). 59 (61, 62, 63) sts.

Next Row: (WS) Work row 6 of Right Cable chart, con-

tinue as est to end of row. Sleeve measures approx. 13 ½ (13 ½, 13 ½, 16, 16, 16)” (34.5 [34.5, 34.5, 40.5, 40.5, 40.5] cm) from sleeve CO at division between front and sleeve, and 10 (10, 10, 12 ½, 12 ½, 12 ½)” (25.5 [25.5, 25.5, 32, 32, 32] cm) from sleeve CO at cuff end. Break 183/4 (183/4 , 19, 19, 191/4 , 193/4)” yarn. Slip all to empty needle. 47.5sts (47.5, 48, 48, 49, 50) cm

All sizes:

Work as est over all sts until hood measures approximately 13” (33cm) from hood CO, ending with WS row 6 of Right Cable chart. Break yarn.

Graft Cuff Stitches: With a size 6 (4mm) dpn, slip

cuff sts as if knitting row 7 of Right Cable chart, using cable needle to rearrange sts. With second dpn, pick up 24 cuff sts from cast on row. Use Kitchener stitch to 11/2” graft the rearranged Row 7 sts to the cast on sts. With 3.5 cm RS facing, rejoin yarn and loosely BO the remaining sleeve sts. 163/4 (19, 203/4 , 23, 243/4 , 27)” 183/4 (183/4 , 19, 19, 191/4 , 193/4)” 42.5 (48.5, 52.5, 58.5, 63, 68.5) cm(47.5, 48, 48, 49, 50) cm 47.5

Work Hood: Slip the 33 (35, 37, 39, 40, 43) front sts

onto a size 8 (5mm) needle with RS facing. Join yarn, work 24 sts of cable band, place marker, k to end of row. Using backward loop method, CO 17 (18, 20, 22, 23, 23). 50 (53, 57, 61, 63, 66) sts total. Working hood sts in St st and cable band as est, work 9 (11, 15, 29, 0, 0) rows, ending with a WS row.

11/2” 3.5 cm 163/4 (19, 203/4 , 23, 243/4 , 27)” 42.5 (48.5, 52.5, 58.5, 63, 68.5) cm

163/4 (19, 203/4 , 23, 243/4 , 27)” 42.5 (48.5, 52.5, 58.5, 63, 68.5) cm

131/2 (13 1/2 , 131/2 , 16, 16, 16)" 34.5 (34.5, 34.5, 40.5, 40.5, 40.5) cm 13” 33 cm 163/4 (19, 203/4 , 23, 243/4 , 27)” 42.5 (48.5, 52.5, 58.5, 63, 68.5) cm 10 (10, 10, 12 1/2 , 12 1/2 , 12 1/2 )" 25.5 (25.5 , 25.5, 32, 32, 32) cm 63/4 (63/4 , 63/4 , 8, 8, 8)" 17 (17, 17, 20.5, 20.5, 20.5) cm

12 (12, 121/4 , 11, 111/4 , 113/4 )” 30.5 (30.5, 31, 28, 28.5, 30) cm

131/2 (13 1/2 , 131/2 , 16, 16, 34.5 (34.5, 34.5, 40.5, 40 13” 33 cm 171/2 (173/4 , 181/4 , 183/4 , 183/4 , 181/4 )” 44.5 (45, 46.5, 47.5, 47.5, 49) cm

63/4 (63/4 , 63/4 , 8, 8, 8)" 17 (17, 17, 20.5, 20.5, 20.5) cm

11/2” 3.5 cm 91/4 (103/4 , 111/2, 123/4 , 131/2, 141/2)” 25 (27.5, 29, 32.5, 34.5, 37) cm

171/2 (173/4 , 181/4 , 183/4 , 183/4 , 1 44.5 (45, 46.5, 47.5, 47.5, 49)

12 (12, 121/4 , 11, 111/4 , 113/4 )” 30.5 (30.5, 31, 28, 28.5, 30) cm

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Next Row: (RS) Slip 24 cable sts onto a dpn as per

F i nish i ng

row 7 of the Right Cable chart, using cable needle to rearrange sts, then slip the rearranged sts back onto the needle.

Graft front band and hood stitches: Using Kitchener method, graft live sts from top of left hood to live sts at top of right hood. Blocking : Block pieces to required measurements.

Back Hem: Using US 7 (4.5mm) needles and a long tail cast

on, CO 76 (86, 94, 104, 112, 122) sts. Beginning with a purl row, work in St st until piece measures 1 ½” (3.8cm) from cast on edge, ending with a RS row (knit). Fold line: (WS) Change to US 8 (5mm) needles and k

1 row to create fold line.

Block front cable sections to match length of the St st sections of fronts. Press the hem to the WS along the folding line. Seaming : Using mattress stitch, seam shoulders, back

of hood, sleeves, and side seams. Invisibly tack hem to WS so that the seam doesn’t show on RS. Weave in all ends.

Back: Beginning with a RS (knit) row, continue in St st

until piece measures 18 ¾, (18 ¾, 19, 19, 19 ¼, 19 ¾)” (47.5 [47.5, 48, 48, 49, 50]cm) from fold line or length needed to match front shoulder if width was added to the sleeves. Bind off all sts loosely.

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