MARCH 2016

Cooking has been a controversial subject over the ages, and some LGBT icons have weighed in on the subject.

march 2016

Volume 8 Issue 8

5

5 feature topic Chefs encourage clientele to

become aware of their food and where the food originates

8 carsi green Turning Point 14 chef chai

The Good Son

8

14

18

24

18 roger meier

Reverence

24 jed inductivo + will chen Men With Fresh Boxes

eXpression808.com to

and have our current issue mailed to you

c over

featur e PHOTO BY :

By : mickey weems WAVE BREAK MEDIA

To Your HEALTH

Cooking has been a controversial subject over the ages, and some LGBT icons have weighed in on the subject.

The man-loving Greek philosopher Socrates did not trust cooking because he thought it was an art whose purpose was to fool people into thinking some foods are better than others, just because they taste good – basically, cooking is the quest for pleasure instead of medicinal value. On the other hand, we have Juana Inés de la Cruz, a Mexican nun in the 1500s who wrote love letters to high-ranking women and was punished for being smarter than the men around her. She was sent to the kitchen to teach her a lesson, but rather than being a punishment, she discovered that cooking was a fascinating science that opened the mind. “If Aristotle had cooked,” she said, “he would have written much more.”

More recently, much has been written about the importance of cooking as an important feature of human evolution, something that neither Socrates nor Juana Inés could have antici-

pated. Archaeological studies of early humans indicate that cooking has probably been with us as long as human beings have had fire, and at some point, cooking became necessary for the health of our species. Over time, the human body changed in response to cooked food; raw or rotten meats that other carnivorous animals can eat, we cannot safely consume. Due to our common ancestry, every society in history has had a culinary tradition.

In the twenty-first century, chefs have gone the route of Juana Inés and turned cooking into a science as well as an art. Following the skepticism of Socrates, chefs are distinguishing healthy food prep and ingredients from unhealthy ones that taste good. This includes using certain herbs for their medicinal value or salmon for its nutritional omega 3 fatty acids.

We also realize that some recipes are downright dangerous: It was a mistake for the ancient

EX PRESSION808.COM - m a r 2016 | 5

feature

Romans to boil grape juice in lead pots, for ancient Chinese elites to eat mercury, and for Americans in the late 1800s to put cocaine in soft drinks.

Today we live in the Age of the Celebrity Chef. America has become increasingly enamored by culinary personalities featured on any number of cooking and reality/competition shows such as “Iron Chef,” “Top Chef,” and “Chopped.” But the path to fame has not always been easy for LGBT chefs – the world’s top kitchens tend to be run by aggressive masculine types. Nevertheless, some gay chefs have gained superstar status, including Khristianne Uy, Cat Cora, Ted Allen, Art Smith, Susan Feniger, and Anne Burrell.

The very first celebrity chef in the U.S.A. was in fact, an openly gay man. Known as “the Dean of American Cuisine,” James Beard was the star of the first cooking show to air on television. He also promoted fresh, local produce, and started a nonprofit organization in New York City that provided meals for elderly shut-ins.

This issue of eXpression! features four outstanding local chefs from the LGBT community that continue Beard’s legacy. All of them have achieved a degree of celebrity status in the islands, and all place a premium on healthy food as well as tasty food that looks good.

Chef Chai attributes his success and love of fresh produce to lessons he learned from his mother, a former restaurateur in his hometown of Bangkok, Thailand. Chef Roger Meier traces his culinary roots to the Colorado ranch on which he was raised, his ethics of food production to experiences he had in Turkey, and his exposure to slow food cuisine in San Francisco. Chef Carsie Green underwent a life-changing experience that inspired him to cook with an eye towards well-being. Chef Will Chen has teamed up with his business partner and best friend, Jed Inductivo to create a meal-prep delivery system that enables people to cook healthy dinners at home, an idea that came to them when they were trying to match their diet with their CrossFit training.

What is impressive about the people in this issue is their dedication to education as well as nutrition. Their mission does not end with the entree – these chefs encourage clientele to become aware of their food and where the food originates. Know Yourself – an aphorism attributed to a legion of Greek philosophers – should include knowledge about how to best nourish our bodies, those marvelous, living organisms in which our souls reside. The chefs in this issue are happy to teach us.

6 | m a r 2016 - E X PRESSION808.C OM

featur e

EX PRESSION808.COM - m a r 2016 | 7

carsi

8 | m a r 2016 - E X PRESSION808.C OM

By :

car si

mickey weems photos : jtl

Carsi Green’s turning point

Carsie Green is all about transformation. He took the tart and sassy guava to his kitchen and transformed it into award-winning pancakes that earned him and his restaurant chain national recognition this February for creating “One of the 15 Best Pancakes in America” according to Time Out Magazine. For his fans, the recognition he received is no big surprise – his restless mind is not happy unless he is creating some new recipe.

But there is more to the man than fluffy guava chiffon pancakes and whatever new culinary astonishments he conjures in the future. He also transformed himself from a man who was struggling to stay alive into a fitness enthusiast who works out several times a week. And his skills as a chef helped him do it.

Changing Direction It has been over a year since Green’s health took a turn for the worst. In some ways, success was killing him – he was putting in mur-

derous hours at Cinnamon’s, an establishment that recognized his merits as a chef, and made him a business partner in 1988. The restaurant has since expanded from its base in Kailua to Waikiki and Japan, which meant even more work for Green as he jetted back and forth between the Aloha State and the Land of the Rising Sun. When it could take no more, his entire body began to malfunction in December 2014. He struggled with being overweight, overcoming an infection on his hand that he got when his pet cat Hina bit him, and suffering from issues with his feet. The antibiotics cured the infection but softened his foot bones, making it impossible for him to walk without crippling himself as his feet crumbled beneath him.

Green has some serious tattoos all along his right arm. “I got this one to cover the scar that Hina gave me,” he said, showing me the multicolored work that deftly incorporates the lines of the scar on his hand into a seascape with several creatures that swim across his arm and

EX PRESSION808.COM - m a r 2016 | 9

carsi

onto his chest: turtle, sting ray, monk seal and more. Despite his injury, he still has Hina. “It wasn’t his fault. Something scared him, and he just reacted out of fear.”

The infections in his hand and feet took their toll, and his health plummeted. “I went into the hospital in December 2014, then I was in homecare for a month,” he recalled. After being hospitalized for an extended period, Green decided he wanted to live, not just survive.

He began by taking pressure off of his feet by renting a mobile chair. “Being bedridden was driving me crazy, so I got the scooter.” He did this despite being told that the scooter would just add to his weight problems, which is exactly what did not happen.

The scooter also allowed him the mobility to go back to Cinnamon’s. “I’d catch a handyvan or a friend would drive me to work with the scooter. In February 2015, a friend introduced me to a cleansing regimen from Amway, and in 24 days I lost 16 pounds. I went to work 4-5 hours a day, then went home to elevate my feet. I did this for four months before I was able to do more, such as going to the gym.” Losing weight took pressure off of his heart and his feet, further accelerating his recovery. Green felt that the universe was telling him something: “My lesson was to slow down.”

The scooter, cleansing, and weight loss gave his body the chance to heal as he made permanent changes in his lifestyle, such as working out: “I started going to the gym six times a week,” he said – in fact, he just started a six-week fitness boot camp when I

10 | m a r 201 6 - E X PRESSION 808.C OM

interviewed him, a sure sign that he is making progress. And Green can undergo boot camp because he has not simply lost weight – he has committed himself to a better mode of living: “I have more energy now.” But the biggest change was dietary.

“My approach to food saved my life. I changed my eating habits from eating everything and anything, to more vegetables, chicken, fish, nuts, and fruits. I made my portions smaller per meal and began eating five times a day. I don’t eat beef or pork anymore. I also cut out all soda and juices, and reduced my alcohol intake to one-half. I do less fried food, more steamed, but it has to be tasty. It must satisfy my palate.” Others have noticed the transformation: “People are shocked when they see my weight loss. They ask about my diet or if I’m on crack – I tell them it’s a life change. I feel better, and I love myself more. I’m doing things I never thought I’d be able to do.”

At this point in our conversation, Green grew silent. Tears came to his eyes. “I could have died – I was on my way to die. I had to do something.” Behind the tears, I caught a glimpse of the suffering he had experienced, but I also saw a sense of relief in his eyes – the worst was over – and the resolve to set things right, not just for himself, but also for his customers.

Making a One-Eighty The combination of eating delicious yet healthy food, and having more meals, but smaller ones, has worked wonders for Green.

He now believes that tasty food can actually

car si

EX PRESSION808.COM - m a r 2016 | 11

c arsi

“

I was on my way to die... My approach to food saved my life.

”

12 | m a r 201 6 - E X PRESSION 808.C OM

car si

help people eat less, which goes against the current understanding that more meals means more fat, and that good food makes people want to eat more. “It is all about satisfaction,� he said. “I think if you eat to satisfy your palate, your mind sends you positive messages. Your stomach is happy, so you only eat enough to make you feel warm and not uncomfortable, just content. Remember, you will be eating again in a couple of hours.�

Upon reflection, this makes sense. I cannot count how many times I have mindlessly chomped a plate of nachos, a bag of popcorn, or a mixing bowl filled with cereal. These fastfood snacks have just enough flavor to keep me eating, but not enough flavor to satisfy my hunger. And the worst thing about it is that afterwards, I’m left short of satisfaction and feeling vaguely ashamed of my lack of self-control. Green said that the absence of genuine flavor leads to such behavior. “People are just eating because they are bored, not necessarily because they are actually hungry.�

Green believes he can help others do as he did by offering healthy, delicious choices at Cinnamons. “I believe I am here to enrich people’s lives with good food that is made from love.� One example of bringing healthier food to his clientele is his take on eggs Benedict, an entree for which he is famous. “Hollandaise sauce isn’t too healthy, but we do have a fresh spinach and tomato eggs Benedict. And we also have mahimahi eggs

1.9

*

Benedict too for added health.�

About Face Like his guava chiffon pancakes, Green has a tart and sassy side: he occasionally transforms into his drag queen persona, Mezcarsi Wilson. Before he fell ill, he had been in many pageants, including mainland contests in Los Angeles, California and Portland, Oregon. But when he fell sick, drag was the last thing on his mind. “I had more important things to worry about.� But when he got back on his feet, he released his inner Mezcarsi – she put on face and sashayed across the stage once more. And Mezcarsi turned it out in a fierce zebra outfit, complete with a zebra-head bonnet, earning her the prize of first runnerup in the Zafari Pageant held last year at the Veteran’s Center in Honolulu.

Green loves drag, but he refuses to let it define him. “I went through a time when I was in drag almost every weekend. Now I like just being Carsie.� Does this mean that Mezcarsi has hung up her pumps for good? Green was a bit coy: “I have no energy to do drag these days, but who knows what the future brings?�

With Green undergoing so many transformations (sick to healthy, guava to pancake, chef to drag queen, human to zebra) and creating even more healthy choices for the menu at Cinnamon’s – who knows, indeed?

$500

OR DISCOUNT **

2016 Outback.

VERSATILITY COMES STANDARD SYMMETRICAL ALL-WHEEL DRIVE WITH X-MODEŽ HAS THE CAPABILITY TO TAKE YOU ALMOST ANYWHERE. AT 33 MPG HWY1, IT’S THE MOST-FUEL EFFICIENT MIDSIZE CROSSOVER IN AMERICA2 (WWSPLZ VUS` [V ZWLJPÄJ TVKLSZ HUK VUS` MVY ZWLJPÄJ TVKLS `LHYZ (79 VMMLYZ Z\IQLJ[ [V JYLKP[ HWWYV]HS" UV[ HSS HWWSPJHU[Z ^PSS X\HSPM` 4\Z[ W\YJOHZL [HRL KLSP]LY` IL[^LLU HUK (79 VMMLYZ SPTP[LK [V Z[VJR VU [OL SV[ HUK ^PSS UV[ IL HWWSPLK [V IHJRVYKLYZ =LOPJSL ZLSLJ[PVU PZ Z\IQLJ[ [V H]HPSHIPSP[` +V^U WH`TLU[ TH` IL YLX\PYLK VU JLY[HPU TVKLSZ KPZJV\U[ VMMLY NVVK ^P[O W\YJOHZL HUK KLSP]LY` VM HU` UL^ 6\[IHJR 0U Z[VJR" UV IHJRVYKLYZ 5V[ JVTIPUHISL ^P[O HU` V[OLY ZWLJPHS ÄUHUJPUN YH[LZ KPZJV\U[Z YLIH[LZ LTWSV`LL WYPJLZ VY V[OLY VMMLYZ 9LZ[YPJ[PVUZ HWWS` =LOPJSLZ TH` UV[ IL L_HJ[S` HZ ZOV^U :LL H :\IHY\ /H^HPP KLHSLY VY ]PZP[ :\IHY\/H^HPP JVT MVY HKKP[PVUHS KL[HPSZ 6MMLY LUKZ ,7( LZ[PTH[LK O^` M\LS LJVUVT` MVY 6\[IHJR P TVKLSZ (J[\HS TPSLHNL TH` ]HY`

3VUNL]P[` IHZLK VU 0/: (\[VTV[P]L 7VSR < : ]LOPJSLZ PU VWLYH[PVU YLNPZ[YH[PVU Z[H[PZ[PJZ 4@ Âś PU [OL 5VU 3\_\Y` 4PKZPaL *<= JH[LNVY` HZ VM 6J[VILY

EX PRESSION808.COM - m a r 2016 | 13

chai

Chef Chai has made quite the name for himself – in a singular fashion.

His given name is Chai Chaowasaree. But like Cher, Madonna, and Beyoncé, he is best known simply as “Chai,” and both of his restaurants include that singular moniker: “Chai’s Waikiki” and “Chef Chai” located in the Pacifica on Kapi‘olani Boulevard in Kaka‘ako.

He is the executive chef for Hawaiian Airlines, has hosted a weekly cooking show, won awards (in 2011, he earned the “Hale Aina Chef’s Choice” award), and seen his restaurants featured in magazines such as Bon Appetite, Travel & Leisure, and Gourmet Magazine. Nevertheless, Chai is no diva, even if he is an icon among chefs. During the interview in his Pacifica restaurant, he was down to earth, humble, and the epitome of a good son.

He is, in fact, a man who values his privacy.

He demurred when we asked if we could get a picture of him with his mother – he would rather be seen in his professional capacity as a chef and restaurateur.

Credit Where Credit Is Due We sat in his finely appointed establishment in Kaka‘ako on Kapiolani Boulevard. The space is all soft grays and blacks and relaxing browns in stone, metal finish, and glass. At the entrance was a grand and rather spectacular abstract oil painting that mixed bright and subtle tones – much like a good meal – and the private dining area on the far end of the establishment featured two chandeliers composed of upside-down wine glasses.

The elegance of the venue was only made possible, however, by the things he learned in his formative years in Southeast Asia. “My mother taught me everything about food,” he said. “I remember getting up in the morning at 6:30 a.m. every day to go to the open market with her. There are no wholesale vendors in Thailand – you have to actually go to the market! That’s where I learned how to pick and choose the freshest meat, freshest vegetables,

14 | m a r 201 6 - E X PRESSION 808.C OM

and sweetest fruit. I even use some of her lessons in my cook book: When buying a fresh fish, make sure the eyes are clear, and the gills are bright red, not dark. Even though it is a fish, good and fresh fish should not smell fishy.’’

His words sent my imagination to a world very different from the spacious, chic restaurant in which we sat. In my mind’s eye, the soothing, almost monochrome coolness of my immediate surroundings was replaced with the color, clamor, and crowds of his hometown Bangkok, as I followed him and his mother through the crowded market to find fresh vegetables, sweet fruit, and clear-eyed fish with bright red gills.

The time Chai spent with his mother in the busy streets of Bangkok left an indelible mark on him. “From the market, we would return to the restaurant, and she would show me how to cut and prepare all the food to create many Thai and Chinese dishes. No school can teach you that kind of learning.”

His parents ran a gargantuan multi-floored dining establishment. “Our restaurant in Bangkok was very unique,” Chai recalled. “We served dishes you couldn’t find anywhere else. For example, we serve a stuffed bitter melon that we braised till tender – this leaves no bitter taste.”

Culinary innovation was part and parcel of his education: “There is one fish in Thailand that has a lot of small bones and often they would poke your mouth. We used a special technique and cooked the fish until all the bones are soft and edible.”

Leaving Thailand, Bringing Thailand to Hawai‘i Chai left Thailand for America decades ago.

He first tried to live in New Jersey, but the onslaught of freezing weather inspired him to leave once winter began to set in. “I couldn’t live there,” he told me. “It was too cold!” The private man that he is, he did not share anything about the difficulties he faced making the transition from Thailand to Hawai‘i, other than the unbearable frostiness of the Northeastern U.S.A.

chai

photos :

By : mickey weems courtesy of chef chai

the good son Chai

EX PRESSION808.COM - m a r 2016 | 15

jaime

“

There are things everyone can do.

Buy locally when you can and cook healthy food.

”

16 | m a r 201 6 - E X PRESSION 808.C OM

cocoa

He then made his way to Hawai‘i when Thai cuisine had yet to catch on. Chai took the opportunity to explore other cooking traditions, a journey that taught him how to speak in multiple culinary tongues. “I’m lucky to have lived so long in Hawai‘i with its mixed culture. I was able to introduce other cuisines to my cooking – Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Vietnamese, Korean and other cultures. Add to that some French cooking techniques, and the result is food that is full of flavors and easy on the eyes.”

Eventually, Thai cuisine caught on, as had many other cuisines in multicultural Hawai‘i. Chai was able to catch that wave. “Thai food is known for its bold and full flavors, healthy fresh vegetables, and herbs and spices. Being the only Thai chef among the top chefs in Hawai‘i makes my food different in flavors and presentation.” That wave may have seen its heyday as hipsters seek the latest new thing, but Thai cooking has since secured a place as one of the world’s most beloved cuisines, and Chai has the pedigree to explore Asian fusion from an already lush tradition.

Serving Local, Serving Healthy Cuisine One restaurant was not enough for Chai to express himself as a chef. His Waikiki restaurant is all about local ingredients. The other in Kaka‘ako is all about health. “At my [Kaka‘ako] restaurant on Kapi‘olani Boulevard, we don’t use any butter in our cooking, with the exception of some desserts. Just imagine if every chef on the island stopped using butter in our food for a month! I think you would see a leaner and healthier people.”

Because his Waikiki location is dedicated to local produce, Chai makes certain choices for it that are eminently Hawai‘i-sourced, such as using island-raised Parker Ranch tenderloin and Maui venison chop, while he uses meat from the mainland (beef from Idaho and lamb from Colorado) in Kaka‘ako. I asked him to give examples of dishes that represent each restaurant, so Chai offered these two entrees: Grilled Mongolian-style lamb chops with brandy demi and sautéed Aloun Farms sugar snap peas (Kaka‘ako), and grilled herb-crusted Maui Nui

venison with merlot demi, sautéed jumbo white beans and Ho Farms tomato (Waikiki).

Chai co-founded Hawai‘i Island Chefs (HIC), an organization that promotes the islands’ multicultural cuisine and locally grown produce. He encourages everyone to buy from local food sources and make smart choices. “I shop in Chinatown and farmers’ markets here, but I cannot just go to an open market like we did in Thailand to get everything I need. But there are still things everyone can do, such as buy locally when you can and cook healthy food.”

In addition to shopping local, he keeps his eye on the first purpose of food: nutrition.

“Remember: You are what you eat. Use less sodium and add more herbs and spices. If you are going to eat meat, choose the one that is leaner and with less fat. If you can choose between mahimahi and salmon, then choose the salmon because it is higher in omega fat, which is good for you.”

Family Values His dedication to Hawai‘i farmers and its multicultural flair is second only to his devotion to the woman who made it all possible, all those years ago in the Siamese capital so far away.

Chai’s mom is in Hawai‘i now, far from the markets and hustle of Bangkok. He grew up in a family that was part of the small Roman Catholic community in Thailand, and they now go to mass together every Sunday at Saints Peter and Paul near Ala Moana – his orientation does not come between either him and his mother or him and his faith. “Having my mom live with us in Hawai‘i is a blessing. Because of her age and language barrier, I would never be so selfish as to ask her to move here. But couple years ago, she decided to move in with us. That was the best gift I could ever ask for.”

She cared for him when she ran her massive Bangkok restaurant so many years ago. Chai now feels privileged that he can do the same for her. “My mother means everything to me, and I will do anything for her. I am so blessed and lucky that she is so close to me, both physically and in my heart.”

EX PRESSION808.COM - m a r 2016 | 17

jaime

18 | m a r 201 6 - E X PRESSION 808.C OM

jaim e

By :

mickey weems photos : jtl

Roger Meier’s Reverence When I went to The Butcher & Baker, a café that sits amidst a host of other small cafés in a chic two-story courtyard on Bishop Street, the first thing I noticed was that every employee was working on food prep, even the cashier.

In a glass case were fine pastries and a selection of sandwiches, all of them made in-house, reasonably priced, and of gourmet quality. On the side was coffee, custom-blended, in two large thermoses; customers could help themselves. There was also a bowl with small bags of chips for sale by the register.

The only thing that was out of place were the chips – they were not prepared in the café.

Those chips bother the owner, chef Roger Meier. They are locally made but deep-fried. He will replace them with healthier options as soon as he is able to convince a reputable brand to ship some of their baked chips to him.

Ranch Work Ethic Meier is the son of a career U.S. Air Force officer who bought a 600-plus acre ranch in Colorado. First-hand experience living with plants and animals destined to become food gave him a reverence for life. “It dishonors the pig if we do not use every portion of its body for something useful,” he said in the midst of a conversation about bacon. It also dishonors life itself when the processes we use to make our food end up poisoning us – he cures his own bacon with a smoker in his kitchen, thus guaranteeing the quality of his product.

“One hundred percent of my ethic comes from the ranch,” he told me. “It takes a lot of time and energy working a farm.

Why dishonor your own hard work? If I pull beets from the garden, what makes the leaves any less valuable than the root? I would consume the leaves as well. One beet plant can give someone

EX PRESSION808.COM - m a r 2016 | 19

their entire daily fiber requirement. Those random trimmings have a value as compost or as livestock feed.” His awareness of the cycle of life is holistic, even spiritual. “I am very reverential about food. There is so much waste, and we are starving.”

Turkish Sensibilities Like so many sons of high-ranking officers, Meier was expected to follow the legacy of his father. He attended the U.S. Air Force Academy [for officers] in Colorado Springs, but dropped out, much to the disappointment of the senior Meier. “I was the oldest surviving son – my two older brothers had died, so the legacy of excelling in the Air Force fell upon me. When I dropped out of the academy, it caused a rift between my father and me. The rift got even worse when I came out to my mother and she told my father.”

He nevertheless served in the Air Force for 10 years, and the time he spent stationed in Turkey changed his life. “Being in Izmir, Turkey really opened my eyes in a global way,” he said.

“I had never traveled outside the U.S. Although we eat different foods, food was not treated as a trivial thing in Izmir. There were traditions when sitting to eat any meal; time was taken and meals were social events. Everything was prepared fresh and wholesome from scratch, usually foraged from the market that same day, which in itself was a ritual.”

Did his time in Turkey influence his cuisine? “To some degree, but in no overt way. It gave me a greater appreciation for global culinary traditions and a healthy love of adventurous eating.”

San Francisco, Honolulu, and Slow Food The experiences he had on the ranch and in

20 | m a r 201 6 - E X PRESSION 808.C OM

Izmir did not influence his choice of career until years later; they had to slow-cook until the time was right. After 10 years in the Air Force, he moved to Pittsburgh and became a talent agent in the entertainment industry – he had been approached twice by scouts and had an affair with the second one, who then showed him the ropes. Meier later settled down with a man and relocated to Seattle. But irreconcilable differences arose between them – his man wanted a house-husband, and Meier did not want to be restricted to the home.

He then went to San Francisco and continued to work for 16 years as a talent agent, which in turn put him in contact with progressive chefs who championed slow food, a movement that rejects the shortcuts and questionable ingredients used in preparing fast foods. Meier found a similar ethic to what he learned on his father’s Colorado ranch and in Izmir: Do not shirk from the work, and invest time in the meal, both in its production and in the time spent with others at the table while eating it. He moved to Hawai‘i in 2010 and became the executive pastry chef for the Honolulu Coffee Company where he helped with the expansion of the franchise into the Japanese market.

He struck out on his own and opened The Butcher & Baker in 2013 – it became the means by which he could put into practice everything he had learned about food, health, and sustainability in line with his slow food ethic: “For me, slow food is food that is prepared naturally and from scratch with locally sourced ingredients – every aspect. For instance, in preparing a soup, I would not rely on canned stock or broth. I continuously use meat and vegetable trimmings to start and enrich my stocks. Rather than purchase bread, I make my own.”

The care he invests in his food takes on a spiritual dimension. “The mindset for me is that the finished food is imbued with so much

st eve

Rick Gutierrez Loan Officer

NMLS# 442563 | Branch# 389672 4211 Waialae Ave., Suite 107 Honolulu, HI 96816 Rick.Gutierrez@prospectmtg.com www.myprospectmortgage.com/RGutierrez cell 808.728.7575 fax 877.878.8513

Can I really buy a home for less than I pay in rent right now? With low down payments, start searching for your new home! The Home Scouting® App provides information without obligation. This is the app for you!

Enroll today!

1. Download the Home Scouting App 2. Enter my VIP code (1x only) 3. Create personal password (1x only) 4. Start searching

VIP Code: 8087287575 The Home Scouting Report® (HSR) is a home finding service provided directly to you as a homebuyer by HBM2, a licensed real estate brokerage services company. The Loan Officer’s role is to assist in determining a comfortable home price range for HBM2 to use when it is searching for property listings within your search criteria. The Loan Officer is neither an employee of HBM2, nor the provider of the HSR. © 2015 Home Buyers Marketing II, Inc. (HBM2). Rev 11.24.15 (1115-2558) LR 2015-766 Loan inquiries and applications in states where I am not licensed will be referred to a Loan Officer who is licensed in the property state. Equal Housing Lender. Prospect Mortgage is located at 15301 Ventura Blvd., Suite D300, Sherman Oaks, CA 91403, 800-464-2484. Prospect Mortgage, LLC, NMLS ID #3296, (www.nmlsconsumeraccess.org) is a Delaware limited liability company.

This is not an offer for extension of credit or a commitment to lend. Call for details. 3/2015

EX PRESSION808.COM - m a r 2016 | 21

st eve

heart, soul and love, and is wholesome. The process of cooking and food prep becomes a Zen-like experience for me.” I asked him what he meant: “It’s difficult for me to explain – when I’m in the zone, I become interconnected with the food – sometimes for 12 hours at a time – and not notice until I stop and I realize I did not take a leak the whole time! It’s a physical-intellectual-tactile thing.”

So how far does he go in terms of food prep?

“I go as far as I can. All of our sauces, breads, meats are all prepared in house, down to our ponzu sauce. Some things we use as convenience sauces since we use them too little, too infrequently to make it worth the time and effort; things like mustard, Sriracha, and Worcestershire sauce. Our stocks are made in-house, as are our jams. Unfortunately, the resources are not available to me here on O‘ahu to churn and culture our own butter, make mustard, et cetera.”

The Other Shop Near The Butcher & Baker is a donut shop, and Meier noticed a difference in clientele. “In front of the donut shop you will usually see fuller figured people, usually men. In front of my shop you usually see more fit-looking people. My main audience is made up of professional women around 35-55 years of age.”

The difference between the two goes beyond simple convenience – it takes as much time ordering donuts as it does ordering food from The Butcher & Baker. “It is my belief that people usually will consume less because of the reverence placed on the food and the quality.”

22 | m a r 201 6 - E X PRESSION 808.C OM

Meier hesitated: “I’m not sure if I articulated that too well. I mean, if you see someone grab convenience food, they usually dig in for some serious feeding. It is not unheard of for someone to consume two or three donuts from a box, or a super-size fries with two Big Macs. It’s the ease of access and the cheap cost. I think that, subconsciously, cheap and easy access to food triggers a hunger fear: ‘This is abundant and easy so I need to get as much as I can’... I ramble now.”

It is not rambling if it makes sense. Speaking as frankly as he did with me about poor food choices is something Meier avoids in The Butcher & Baker (which is undergoing expansion at this moment). He learned from his time in Japan that it is better not to get in people’s faces – let the food speak for itself, and just inform people about how it is made without going off on the evils of corporatism.

And one item in his shop definitely spoke for itself: the salted caramel brownie. It is so rich that four diners can order one, split it between them and feel satisfied – quite different from the donut shop customer who scarfs down half a dozen donuts.

Gratitude Meier expressed gratitude to the people that helped him become the gourmet chef he is today. “More than anything, my first mentor chef Mark Sullivan, has been the greatest influence on who I am as a chef. He has godlike status for me – I saw him take a farm and make it organic to provide food for his table.

He cemented my dedication to slow food.

But I owe my reverence for food to the ranch and to my adopted Turkish family.”

st eve

“

The process of cooking and food prep becomes a Zen-like experience for me.

”

EX PRESSION808.COM - m a r 2016 | 23

to ran o By : mickey photos : jtl

weems | LOCATION : HO FARMS

Men With

When it comes to eating food with flavor, gym culture is often seen as a cult of denial: Food is fuel for carving the chiseled body, nothing more.

No fatty foods, no empty carbs, and no joy.

Two fitness buffs decided to change that mindset by applying smart rules to a regimented cuisine.

Their company, Hawai‘i Fresh Box, does the prep work, then sends the prepared ingredients to their customers with instructions on how to cook a meal in 30-45 minutes. It’s like culinary Ikea for people on the go, except Fresh Box regularly delivers the ingredients and instructions for three meals (each meal makes enough for two people) to your door every week.

The Boss and The Face The concept is simple, but the implementation took much thought, expertise in cooking, and savvy marketing. The business side of their Fresh Box venture was handled by Jed “The Boss” Inductivo. He hails from New York, where he worked at upper-end bars as a bartender, eventually finding a place in Robert de Niro’s Japanese-Brazilian restaurant, Nobu 57. He moved to Hawai‘i to be with his lover – it didn’t work out – but he did get Nobu Waikiki’s Bar and Lounge up and running. From there he became the general manager of RumFire in the Sheraton Waikiki for six years.

Despite his years in the public eye, Inductivo is reluctant to do anything in the public nowadays.

He is The Boss, kind of like a gay behind-thescenes Godfather, but without the Mafia. He is the one who makes things happen.

Working with The Boss is Will “The Face” Chen.

Born in Boston, Massachusetts, Chen graduated from the University of Massachusetts at Amherst,

24 | m a r 201 6 - E X PRESSION 808.C OM

tor ano

Fresh Boxes

L-R: Jed Inductivo + Will Chen EX PRESSION808.COM - m a r 2016 | 25

su san

26 | m a r 201 6 - E X PRESSION 808.C OM

tor ano

earned a degree in culinary arts from Le Cordon Bleu, Paris and worked at the restaurant Ledoyen in that same city. He was also executive chef and chef de cuisine at some of the top restaurants and resorts on Kaua‘i and O‘ahu.

“Will is great at being the face of Fresh Box,” said Inductivo, “from his Hawai‘i News Now segments with Grace Lee on Thursday mornings, to fundraising events at the Honolulu Museum of Art, and doing cooking demos for kids at the Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival. I on the other hand, am more of the big-picture thinker behind the scenes.”

Ah-Ha! Moment How did The Boss and The Face come up with the idea? “Will and I did a three-month program at CrossFit East Oahu called Transform,” said Inductivo. “This required a commitment to five days of CrossFit training, in addition to a strict dietary program with a fixed macronutrient balance.” In the language of fitness devotees, macronutrient refers to protein, carbs, and fat, while micronutrient refers to minerals and vitamins. The language of macro- and micro-nutrients marks the shift away from food preparation as an art geared for sensual pleasure. Food prep then becomes a science in which flavor is inconsequential, and tasty food is often viewed with suspicion. For anyone who enjoys a good meal, such a macro-micro program could be a nightmare.

Chen found a better way. “While most of the other program participants were eating bland foods like baked chicken, brown rice and broccoli, Will was preparing macronutrient meals balanced for us that were gourmet, such as chicken Thai watermelon salad,” said Inductivo. Chen’s meals were far superior to Inductivo’s cooking, and both men laughed as Chen recounted one particular horror: “Jed would put Italian dressing on frozen Costco chicken and bake it for 40 minutes while he showered. And of course it would always be dry and rubbery because the dressing would just melt off.

Thank goodness he doesn’t do that any more.”

The two men realized they were on the brink of something big. “Around the same time, farmers associated with the community-supported agriculture [CSA] movement were sending out boxes of fresh produce on O‘ahu,” Inductivo recalled.

“Will would get lots of phone calls about how to

prepare vegetables that customers received. It became an ‘Ah-ha!’ moment to marriage the two and create a CSA box on steroids that included everything – all the produce, proteins, spices, et cetera, and a step-by-step full-color recipe card.”

They now work with local growers such as Ho Farms, Sugarland, Fields of Aloha and Small Kine Farms.

So who buys Fresh Box? Inductivo was surprised at what kinds of people became their clientele.

“The demographics of our customers range across the board. While we initially were targeting fitness enthusiasts, Fresh Box has become an essential part of young professionals, retirees, and busy moms and dads.”

As far as Chen and Inductivo are concerned, providing quality meals is one part of a larger package that includes educating the customer as well as providing them quality food. Each recipe card is a mini-lesson on how to improve one’s body as well as how to cook.

Challenges of Production, Delivery, and Love “It’s been a trial by error to figure out the ins-andouts of a business model that is very different than traditional restaurant operations,” said Inductivo.

But there was another challenge that put the entire project at risk.

Chen and Inductivo were in love. “Will and I were in a 5-year long-term relationship, and we had every intention to be life partners.” Everything was fine, or so they thought. Their schedules were such that they were apart most of the day, so the time they spent together was precious and enjoyed to the fullest. But things between them changed because of Fresh Box – they were together a lot, too much, in fact, and being around each other so often exacted a harsh toll on them.

“As a couple, we never got a chance to escape the business. We evolved Fresh Box from the ground up, and our relationship also evolved from a romantic life partnership to that of a life-long friendship. It was not easy to accept, and eventually embrace, that we are better as best friends and business partners than we ever were as romantic partners. But the breakup was mutual. It was probably the most peaceful breakup I’ve ever had,” said Inductivo.

EX PRESSION808.COM - m a r 2016 | 27

toran o

“

Fresh Box has become an essential part of young professionals, retirees, and busy moms and dads.

”

There is a sense of sadness that hovers about such words, but there is also optimism – even triumph – that passion between men can transform into other, perhaps more stable, forms of love. So often in our gay lives, we literally make friends as we sleep around until we make a commitment to one partner (and for a fairly large number of us, after we make that commitment – let’s be real). Some of the bonds we form in the midst of our promiscuity become strong and vital connections, even after the passion has subsided. Chen and Inductivo have gotten to know each other very well through good times and bad. They have become what old-school gay society called sisters – a term for gay men who love each other, but don’t sleep with each other – instead of lovers.

Inductivo mentioned an interesting side note that bespeaks of the closeness they share in their separate lives: “We were seeing a couple’s therapist before. Now we still see the same therapist – together – as business partners.”

28 | m a r 201 6 - E X PRESSION 808.C OM

Synergy The Face and The Boss are quite a package – physically fit and easy on the eyes. Each man is in awe of the other’s talent. They give off a relaxed, positive vibe: two men who are comfortable supporting each other in their shared Fresh Box enterprise, and who are secure in the friendship that bonds them. Their humor is contagious, as is their enthusiasm.

So do they really call themselves “Face” and “Boss?” Yes they do, and they’ve got it in print. “On our business cards, Will is The Face and I am The Boss!” (It’s true – I have one of The Boss’ business cards.) Inductivo continued: “I think because of our previous relationship, Will and I still have an unspoken language and synergy that resonates and allows our company to thrive.”

And that synergy is a crucial ingredient in their recipe for success.

tor ano

EX PRESSION808.COM - m a r 2016 | 29

advertising Want your gay-friendly business promoted?

Starting at $25/month

Mission + Purpose

Inspire Hawai‘i’s LGBT (lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgender) people to realize their worth and to live authentic lives.

editorial inquiries Are you an LGBT business owner, individual, or professional that would like to share your story?

808-722-8027

OFFICE: E M A I L : INFO@EXPRESSION808.COM

Jade Le

Advertising + Marketing William Fernandez: p: 808-722-8027

LGBT BARS + NIGHTCLUBS

3

President

5

Production

2

Linda Giang

4

Graphic design HTL Marketing

video + multi-media Lisa Baxter PJ Delanoza

Contributors Mickey Weems PJ Delanoza

Copy Editor Mickey Weems

6

Legal + Research

Glenn Honda, Esq.

Public relations

Lisa Baxter PJ Delanoza

Letters and unsolicited content may be sent to: E-mail: info@expression808.com Mail: eXpression! Magazine

P.O. Box 22487 Honolulu, HI 96823 Phone: 808-722-8027

WAIKIKI DISTRICT 1. HULAS 2. TAPAS 3. BACCHUS 4. FUSIONS 5. IN BETWEENS 6. WANG CHUNG

134 Kapahulu Ave. 407 Seaside Ave. 408 Lewers St. 2260 Kuhio Ave. 2155 Lauula St. 2424 Koa Ave.

10a - 2a 11a - 2a 12p - 2a 10p - 4a 12p - 2a 5p - 2a

1

Entire contents copyrighted 2008–2016 eXpression! Magazine is a registered trademark.

All rights reserved. eXpression! Magazine is published monthly in Hawai‘i and welcomes manuscripts, original works and various forms of expression for publication. eXpression! Magazine reserves publication rights to submitted materials. eXpression!

Magazine assumes no responsibility for unsolicited materials unless otherwise pre-agreed in writing. eXpression! Magazine does not take any financial or libel obligation to the contents of its columnists and advertisers.

All materials submitted are consent to be original. All views and opinions are those of the writer and bear no implications on the opinions of eXpression! Magazine.

Registered trademarks used within are hereby acknowledged, images and contents released and permitted. No implication regarding sexual orientation or preference is made in connection with any persons, contributors, and/or advertisers appearing in this publication.

30 | m a r 201 6 - E X PRESSION 808.C OM

8 7 CHINATOWN DISTRICT

7. SCARLET 80 S. Pauahi St.

8p - 2a

TUE / THR / FR / SA

MCCULLY DISTRICT

8. CHIKO’S 930 McCully St.

5p - 2a

HOTELS AS DIVERSE AS OUR GUESTS 速

Stylish hotels with plenty of personality perfect for the savvy traveler.

1.866.406.AQUA (2782) | www.AquaGayTravel.com