Chronogram's Explore Fall/Winter 2023-2024

INSIDE

8

Hudson Valley Map

10

Accommodations Enjoy Your Stay

From B&Bs in Woodstock and Tannersville to tiny cabins in Catskill to rural luxury in Windham, there’s room for you.

15

Food & Drink

Savory Fare Everywhere

There’s something exciting to eat in the cities and towns of the region, where chefs and culinary entrepreneurs are working with new ingredients and flavors.

22

Craft Beverage In Good Spirits

Prepare to indulge your senses and savor the finest craft beverages the region has to offer. Cheers to unforgettable moments and unforgettable flavors!

27 Shopping By the Book

Independent bookstores are a staple of the region’s creative ecosystem.

30 Arts

Creative Endeavors

From Lewis Black and Samantha Bee to a Ralph Steadman retrospective, fall is chockfull of top-notch culture.

37

History

A Deep Past

Being old is a virtue in the Hudson Valley.

41 Outdoors

Family-Friendly Nature Walks

Easy hikes for all to enjoy.

Olana State Historic Site, Hudson

Photo by Felix Lipov

EDITORIAL Editor

Brian K. Mahoney

brian@explorethehudsonvalley.com

Art Director

Kerry Tinger

kerry@explorethehudsonvalley.com

Contributors

Lily Anninger, Marie Doyon, Liam Drauf, Sophie Frank, Melissa Esposito, Ryan Keegan, David McIntyre, Sean O’Dwyer, Nola Storms

PUBLISHING

CEO

Amara Projansky amara@explorethehudsonvalley.com

Executive Vice President

Jan Dewey jan@explorethehudsonvalley.com

Sales Manager

Andrea Fliakos andrea@explorethehudsonvalley.com

Media Specialists

Sam Brody, Kaitlyn LeLay, Kelin Long-Gaye, Kris Schneider

Ad Operations Specialist

Jared Winslow

ADMINISTRATIVE

Business Manager

Nicole Clanahan office@explorethehudsonvalley.com

MARKETING

Marketing & Events Manager

Margot Isaacs margot.isaacs@explorethehudsonvalley.com

How to Use this Book

about our spotlight communities for a snapshot of some top destination towns.

what you’re looking for quickly by searching our listings online.

PRODUCTION

Production Director

Kerry Tinger kerry@explorethehudsonvalley.com

Production Designer

Kate Brodowska

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Photo by Sean O’Dwyer, whose hyper-detailed trail guide

Autumn Bikers by John Mizel

Bonticou Crag by Kate Schoonmaker

ENJOY YOUR STAY

BY LILY ANNINGER, MELISSA DEMPSEY, ASHLEIGH LOVELACE, NOLA STORMS

Welcome to the enchanting Hudson Valley and Catskills, where the fall foliage paints a breathtaking canvas and winter brings a snowy wonderland. Nestled within this picturesque region, you’ll find a collection of distinctive hotels that beckon travelers seeking cozy escapes, memorable experiences, and farmto-table restaurants on site.

Verdigreen Hotels WOODSTOCK, TANNERSVILLE, AND EAST CHATHAM

Owned by husband-and-wife team Travis and Azie Shelhorse, Verdigreen hotels evolved out of the design-focused indie home furnishings shop and painting studio the couple opened in Montclair, New Jersey, in 2013. Combining Travis’s background in the hotel industry and Azie’s interior design expertise, the two have renovated eight historic properties in the Hudson Valley, New Hampshire, Florida, and Washington, DC, into artful accommodations with an emphasis on upcycling and a strong sense of place.

Their Hudson Valley lodgings include the reimagined Twin Gables Guest House in

Woodstock, a fun, funky, art-filled space defined by lush, hand-painted details; Hotel Mountain Brook in Tannersville, a moody, refined take on a quintessential mountain lodge; and Silver Maple Farm in East Chatham, a breezy French farmhouse-style escape.

Getaway Eastern Catskills CATSKILL

Everything you need and nothing you don’t. That is Getaway’s goal with their compact cabins in the Catskills, built with natural components—wood, metal, and glass—favoring magnificent views of the woodland setting through big picture windows. Co-owners Jon Staff and Pete Davis have been providing getaways to visitors since 2015, with 30 destinations all over the country offering a chance to escape, disconnect, and reconnect with nature.

Getaway Eastern Catskill features 51 freestanding cabins spread across 85 acres, close to the picturesque North-South Lake, countless hiking trails with breathtaking lookouts, and the Thomas Cole and Olana state historic sites, as well as the 260-foot Kaaterskill Falls. Ranging from 140 to 200

square feet, each guest room contains only the essentials: a single queen bed or queen bunk, two-burner stove, mini fridge, sink, toilet, shower, heating and cooling, and kitchenware. Simple yet functional amenities include an outdoor fire pit with grilling grate, outdoor seating, a mini-library, and a cell phone lockbox so you can get the most out of your experience. Be warned: Because the goal of the getaway is to disconnect, there is no Wi-Fi and limited cell reception, but there’s a landline in case of emergencies.

The Maiden KINGSTON

In 2019, just as Jennifer Donovan was about to sign on a new building on the corner of Maiden Lane and Clinton Avenue to expand her popular Uptown Kingston-based beauty salon, Le Shag, she received game-changing news about the zoning laws. The two-centuries-old building was not permitted to house a beauty salon under existing code. With just a day to research, Donovan delved into the building’s legal possibilities, discovering, in the process, that it was eligible to be used as a boarding house. Struck with the potential of the new idea, she switched gears to develop a four-room boutique inn, giving rise to the Maiden.

The newly renovated building gives a fresh and functional impression, without losing the classic feeling of the circa-1825 design. When constructing the space, Donovan studied old deeds from the house to learn about the original family who had lived there. In their honor, two out of the four bedrooms on the top floor of the house are named after the original couple, Douw and Hazel Meyers. These rooms each host a double bed and share a bathroom with the Crew Room, which features a bunk bed with two full-sized mattresses. The Park Suite, complete with queen bed and ensuite bathroom, sits at the corner of the house and is characterized by four large windows with long draping curtains. Guests can choose to complement their stay with a private driver and concierge services that provide information about the area such as activities, hikes, and restaurants.

For parties that need a little more room to spread out, the basement is equipped with a speakeasy-vibe bar, feet away from the ancient wood stove that served as the original kitchen hearth. During parties and events, the roving pop-up Catskill Cocktail Club takes over the bar, providing craft drinks for the Maiden’s guests.

Getaway Eastern Catskills, Catskill

The Maiden, Kingston

Union + Post WINDHAM

The Catskills offer an array of experiential getaways, whether you prefer to spend a day biking rugged trails, perusing antiques shops, hitting the slopes during winter, or just hanging out at one of the many breweries along the range.

At the end of the day, however, there’s nothing like a good meal amidst good people followed by a comfortable place to rest your head. When it comes to Catskills comfort, Union + Post—a boutique hotel and restaurant in Windham— has quickly become favored by locals and visitors alike.

Union + Post is located at the site of the

former Pine Lodge, one of those places known by generations of families as a spot charmingly frozen in time. When the current owners took over in 2018, however, the process of renovating the property brought up the realities of renewing outdated rooms and dining spaces. The hotel is currently comprised of 12 rooms in four buildings surrounding the restaurant, with accommodations ranging in size from a 200-square-foot room with a king-sized bed, to a slightly larger double with two double-beds, standard bed and bath space to a spacious suite with a dining room, living room, and private deck. Each one is tastefully decked out with just enough modern-rustic flare to

Union + Post, Windham

give that mountain-getaway vibe—think contemporary furniture with natural wood tones atop jute rugs, and canteens or antique badminton rackets as wall decor— plus luxe bath amenities, room service, or private cooking available from the onsite restaurant, and more.

Central House GERMANTOWN

After decades spent apart on opposite sides of the country, two sisters have reconnected with their Hudson Valley roots to run an inn and restaurant in Germantown. Leslie Carr-Avalos and her sister Julia Carr grew up together in Red Hook but their paths diverged as adults: Julia headed to the city while Leslie jetted to San Francisco. In 2021, the sisters saw an opportunity to purchase one of the most well-known and historic buildings in Germantown: the Central House. In previous lives, the building served as a brothel, speakeasy, stage coach house, and multiple restaurants. In its last iteration, it was set up as an inn with restaurant space. They bought it in October 2022 and started renovating right away.

The pair kept the name Central House, but upgraded the hotel’s six bedrooms, common areas, cozy lounge spots, bar, and dining room with decor they describe as “eclectic, whimsical, and modern.” Designer Eduardo Rodriguez matched bold statements like a black-and-white buffalo-plaid ceiling in the breakfast room with toned-down elements like white country cabinetry and rattan furniture. Subtle whimsy continues by the bar, where you’ll find a large goldframed portrait hanging upside-down near traditional-style lamps illuminating organically shaped pottery.

The Universal Cafe & Bar in the hotel focuses on small plates that add a fine dining twist to New American bites. Ingredients are mainly sourced from nearby farms and purveyors, including Kinderhook Farm, Northwind Farms, Montgomery Place, and the sisters’ own gardens. The menu is divided by three sections: snacks, sharing, and desserts. Popular options include a spicy fried chicken sandwich with buttermilk dressing and a fresh cabbage slaw ($18), chicken liver parfait with grilled bread and cherry-shallot jam ($15), and a smashed cucumber salad with radishes, sumac, mint, and feta-labneh ($16).

A true farm-to-table restaurant and bar celebrating Catskills heritage

Dinner: Friday - Monday

Brunch: Sunday

60 Main Street, Stamford, NY

SAVORY FARE EVERYWHERE

BY MARIE DOYON, MELISSA

Restaurants in the Hudson Valley offer diverse, locally sourced, and inventive culinary experiences that reflect the creativity of their chefs and proprietors. From seafood towers at Pretty to Think So in Rhinebeck to inventive vegetarian options at Mill and Main in Kerhonkson and La Barbirria’s Mexican street tacos in Beacon, there’s something for everyone—even a retro-styled diner with Citroen automobile memorabilia at French bistro Shadow 66.

Mill and Main Restaurant KERHONKSON

Since opening their provisions market/ cafe Mill and Main in 2021, Claudia Sidoti, Paul Weathered, and their son

Christopher Weathered have revived Kerhonkson’s short Main Street with fresh-baked pastries, espresso drinks, and a bright interior. The second phase of their project—Mill and Main Restaurant— opened this summer. With the kitchen helmed by Christopher, whose CV includes Blue Hill at Stone Barns, a short, punchy menu features accessible farm-to-table fare. Apps include pigs in a blanket with curry creole mustard ($14) and lamb meatballs with whipped ricotta ($16) with mains like pan-roasted brook trout with limoncello ($28). There are also plenty of inventive and hearty vegetarian options like the tamarind nut-crusted cabbage with crunchy quinoa and coconut curry ($22).

ESPOSITO, MARC FERRIS, BRIAN K. MAHONEY

Mill and Main Restaurant, Kerhonkson

Pretty to Think So RHINEBECK

Sure, you can get oysters in Rhinebeck at Le Petit Bistro (on the half-shell with mignonette) or roasted Pernod herb butter at Willow at Mirbeau. But, until now, you couldn’t get a seafood tower. At Pretty to Think So (Hemingway reference, look it up), there’s both the Royal ($175) and the Deluxe ($90). The Royal includes a dozen oysters, six Little Neck clams, six shrimp, a lobster, and 30 grams of Pacific sturgeon caviar. The Deluxe is half of that and no caviar. There’s also caviar service if you want it. The Marshallberg Osetra will set you back $300 for 100 grams. This luxe dining experience is the work of chef Mark Margiotta, mixologist Madeline Dillon, and general manger Eric Mushel, the hospitality trio behind The Duchess. The entire menu is mostly dairyand gluten-free but fairly delicious across the board. Try the twice-baked truffle potato ($20) and follow it up with the duck for two with Calvados gastrique ($90).

La Barbirria BEACON

Step into La Barbirria, a buzzy new Mexican spot on Beacon’s Main Street. Quesadillas and burritos are notably absent from the menu, which is divided into four groupings: entrees, appetizers, street tacos, and soups and salads. The tacos are all $5 and under apiece and are served with corn tortillas that are hand-pressed daily in-house. Proteins include blackened salmon with chipotle sauce, marinated pork with pineapple, and chili shrimp. Entrees like the carne adobada (pork) and arrachera (steak) showcase the birria method of slow-cooking meat. The menu also includes aguachile, a dish akin to ceviche that offers a choice of shrimp ($16) or scallops ($21) marinated in a lime with a cucumber, jalapeno, and cilantro broth. For drinks, habanero and jalapeno margaritas and Mexican beers are the specialties, plus refreshing, non-alcoholic aguas frescas, like cucumber-lime and hibiscus flower.

Pretty to Think So, Rhinebeck

La Barbirria, Beacon

Ollie’s Slice Shop KINGSTON

In the former Tony’s Pizzeria in Kingston, the owners of Ollie’s Pizza in High Falls opened a slice shop and a provisions market in neighboring storefronts this summer. At Ollie’s Slice Shop, order by the customizable slice ($3.50-$5) or get a 20-inch pie to go ($23-$28). Garlic knots, a meatball parm hero, and a couple of salads round out the short-but-sweet menu. Fletcher & Lu market is stocked with a rotating selection of products made in-house that might range from sausages and burger patties to bone broth, brisket, and pate.

Shadow 66 GHENT

The Venn diagram of Patrick Jehanno’s interests—Citroen cars and French fare—is proudly on display at the recently opened Shadow 66 in Ghent. Dine on classic French bistro fare in a retro-styled diner filled with automobile memorabilia. The once-agrarian space, previously dubbed The Red Barn, was patched up and painted a demure olive green over the pandemic by Jehanno to create a building that is simultaneously a museum and an eatery. Take a tour to see Jehanno’s two impeccably maintained cars along with vintage signage before sitting down to a starter of mussels—in either mariniere or saffron sauce ($17.50, $19.50)—or beef tartare with the requisite quail egg ($22). For mains, French classics like duck confit ($33) and braised beef in red wine ($34) are on offer. Phone reservations required.

Patrick Henry’s Tavern COXSACKIE

As part of a $15 million project to revitalize Coxsackie’s waterfront, developer Aaron Flach refurbished the beloved Patrick Henry’s Tavern, including preserving and restoring the tin walls and ceilings and the original bar. The early 20thcentury building has a long history as an eatery; before its tenure as Patrick Henry’s and post-Prohibition, it was Costello’s restaurant and bar. After much anticipation, Patrick Henry’s finally reopened with a bang (and a two-hour waiting list) in mid-April. Under Capitol Region restaurateur Dominick Purnomo, the eatery serves pub fare and wood-fired pizza. In addition to indoor seating, the outdoor patio seats close to 50 along with a second-floor deck overlooking the Hudson.

Ollie’s Slice Shop, Kingston

Patrick Henry’s Tavern, Coxsackie

Betty’s Snack Bar NEWBURGH

Betty’s puts the bar back in snack bar. By day, the Liberty Street establishment, which opened in early June, is a bakery and eatery serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Dessert goodies include heart-shaped raspberry Linzer cookies, orange yogurt cake, nectarine scones, and chocolate chip and walnut blondies. The globetrotting menu spans chorizo breakfast tacos, spicy sesame noodles, and New England lobster rolls. Betty’s also has a small grocery section stocked with essentials. After dinner—until 1am on Fridays and Saturdays—the spot transforms into a bar with craft beer and signature cocktails. The intimate space, decked out with cowboy-print wallpaper and a U-shaped bar, serves up summery drinks like watermelon margaritas, as well as local brews.

Nat’s Mountain House TANNERSVILLE

Following an increasing number of hospitality veterans, Manhattan restaurateur Natalie Freihon (The Fat Radish, Nat’s on Bank) has made the jump upstate. June saw the opening of Nat’s Mountain House in the circa-1970s former Chateau Belleview with doublestory windows and mountain views adjacent to the recently reinvented Hotel Lilien. With its colorful, geometric, painted-brick wall, coral booths, seafoam stools, and playful floor tiles, Nat’s is a refreshing changeup from demure design. The new spot brings the legendary Nat’s burger upstate plus other summery pics like corn ribs and fish tacos; and an array of hot-weather cocktails like spicy margs, strawberry sangria, and a frozen pina colada.

Nat’s Mountain House, Tannersville

Betty’s Snack Bar, Newburgh

IN GOOD SPIRITS

BY JANE ANDERSON, LILY ANNINGER, MELISSA ESPOSITO, MARC FERRIS, SOPHIE FRANK

The seasons change, the days turn dark and chilly, and a savvy visitor’s mind turns to warming beverages. Embark on a journey through the Hudson Valley and Catskills, where craft beverages take center stage in a symphony of flavor and creativity. Prepare to indulge your senses and savor the finest craft beverages the region has to offer. Cheers to unforgettable moments and unforgettable flavors!

Union Street Brewing HUDSON

In Union Street Brewing, which opened in July, owners Emma and Paul O’Donnell have created a place to share their “obsession for craft beer with the greater Hudson Valley.” This brewery, taproom, and beautifully landscaped beer garden is located in historic downtown Hudson, only steps away from the bustling businesses of Warren and 7th Streets. The focus is on hoppy, juicy brews, along with an ever-changing selection of seasonal beers, and a wide range of New York State wines and spirits,

all supporting the O’Donnells’ commitment to local, Hudson Valley ingredients. Bites and beers will work hand in hand, with CIA-trained chef Joel Somerstein making plates like lamb koftas with tzatziki ($10) to shrimp tacos ($16) and sausage bites in puff pastry ($15).

Ravish Liquors COXSACKIE

“Antiques in the front. Party in the back.” Like the triumphant return of the mullet, Sara Miller’s genre-defying Coxsackie storefront shoehorns two disparate concepts into one 1870s firehouse, steps away from the Hudson River. Up front, Unquiet displays the former Saveur editor’s aesthetic and zeal for oddities with a curated selection of furniture, art, and decor. In the back, Ravish Liquors, “a speakeasy with a Southern accent,” is a small, cozy space with dark wallpaper and a rotating menu of small Dixie-inflected bites, from rotel dip ($5) to the crawfish etouffee ($18) and succotash salad ($12). There’s also liquor, wine, sake, beer, and live music most Saturdays.

Union Street Brewing, Hudson

Photo by Karen Pearson

Hemlock CATSKILL

Rustic elegance-meets-Doobie Brothers at Catskill’s newest bar and lounge, featuring classic cocktails made with high-quality spirits and as few ingredients as possible, creating a simplicity that allows bold flavors to shine. Try the pineapple daiquiri, made with fresh juice. Other top choices are their margarita and the garden paloma, made from tequila with lime and grapefruit juices, jalapeno agave syrup, and celery bitters, with club soda. Cocktails run $12 each.

Hemlock also offers a small, moderately priced menu of elevated bar food, with items like a Wagyu beef smash burger with the works—cheese, caramelized onion, lettuce, pickle, and A1 aioli ($9); and a big leafy salad ($9), but they’re constantly selling out of the vegan chopped cheese: an Impossible patty chopped with vegan cheese, onions, Sriracha ketchup, and pickle ($9).

Pillow & Oats BEACON

Husband-and-wife duo Maria and Max Headley have opened Beacon’s latest brewery, Pillow and Oats, right in the heart of town. Sandwiched between Peaceful Provisions and Big Mouth Coffee Roasters,

Pillow & Oats specializes in small batch Hazy IPAs and hoppy, but not bitter, offerings. In time, the now-Spartan space, a long rectangle that radiates beer hall vibes, and the industrial interior are soon to be spruced up with murals. All the brewing equipment is out in the open and, in addition to the rows of communal tables and benches, there are a dozen or so round tables flanked by comfy bar stools.

The Print House FLEISCHMANNS

When the room isn’t filled with the sounds of live music, records spin on the turntable at the Print House, a new vinyl bar in the Delaware County village of Fleischmanns. After a 25-year career in television and film, Joe Devito has returned to his lifelong passions of music and food with this new venture. The menu offers flavors of DeVito’s childhood like his grandma’s classic meatballs ($12) served in a cast iron skillet, as well as fresh flatbreads ($12-$18), and locally sourced options like the farmfresh cheeseboard. Located in a circa-1905 print shop with tall tin ceilings and crowned molding, the restored space offers a cozy spot to hear music and catch up with friends over craft cocktails.

Ravish Liquors, Coxsackie

Aspire Brewing MIDDLETOWN

Located in the Plaza at Crystal Run off Route 211, Aspire Brewing shares a parking lot with a PETCO and a gym. A former Off-Track Betting parlor, the brewery’s 30,000-square-foot space is comfortable and inviting. Dramatic, dark-colored walls are highlighted with pendants and sconces formed from barrel staves. Edison-light chandeliers hang from the ceiling, illuminating long couches set up for intimate conversations. There’s also a free cornhole area and giant Jenga tower, or try your hand at laser ax throwing and a variety of other electronic games ($25 per person, per hour; four lanes allow for multiple groups to play). Or grab up to nine of your friends and rent the golf-simulator room. The room has tables and a plethora of life-size video simulator games, from golf to zombieshooting to baseball and soccer. But the real differentiator at Aspire is its pour-your-own beer system. After purchasing a PourMyBeer card, you can take your beer card over to the self-pour wall of 40 taps. Choose from a selection of beer glasses, from tiny tasters to pints and bigger glasses. The beers—all brewed onsite—are tasty and diverse spanning the gamut from fruity IPAs to creamy stouts, ales, and pilsners. There’s also a menu featuring elevated pub fare like personal pizzas and buffalo wings.

Aspire Brewing, Middletown

BY THE BOOK

BY DIANA TESTA AND RYAN KEEGAN

When visiting the Hudson Valley, be sure to remember the flourishing independent bookstore scene. It doesn’t matter if you’re a bookworm or a more casual reader: these brick-and-mortar shops will have something for you, whether you’re searching for new or classic literature or simply seeking a cozy place to rest. Discover a quiet and intimate atmosphere on the slow days, or engage in a lively social environment during one of the many special events that these locations offer. By shopping at any of these stores, you support local businesses and help to uphold their individual vibrant cultures.

Inquiring Minds

NEW PALTZ & SAUGERTIES

Inquiring Minds Bookstore, with locations in New Paltz and Saugerties, is as good a place to buy a book as to read one. The red brick and mortar store in New Paltz has a large selection, including children’s books, toys, and local author and interest books. Both locations have sections of the store dedicated to specific themes, events, and holidays throughout the year. The Saugerties location also has a coffeehouse offering a full espresso bar as well as teas and smoothies. Inquiring Minds hosts events for local authors and book club discussions, bringing together local community members for coffee and conversation. These locations are fully wheelchair accessible and pet friendly.

Barner Books NEW PALTZ

This charming brick-and-mortar on Church Street in New Paltz is one of the longest standing bookstores in the Hudson Valley. Barner Books offers both new and used books with a wide variety of selections in regional history, children’s books, nature guides, art and literature collections, astrology, coffee table books, poetry, classics, and rare books. The shop also has antiques like vintage typewriters,

Italian paper posters, and customer-favorite handmade journals imported from India. You can find Blackwing pencils, bookmarks, cards, and posters in the shop as well. Barner Books is open seven days a week.

Half Moon Books KINGSTON

Despite the fluorescent overhead lights, Half Moon Books’ ample charm comes from its eclectic collection of rare and used books; artistic, book-based window installations; and knowledgeable staff. The selection here is massive. You can find everything from rare banned editions to leather-bound volumes to pulp runs. If you’re lucky enough to catch owner Jessica DuPont, she is a veritable font of information and can guide you to your next favorite after an exploratory conversation. At the checkout counter, scrapped book covers find new life as journals and make great lastminute gifts.

Oblong Books & Music, Rhinebeck and Millerton

Rough Draft Bar & Books KINGSTON

When bar-meets-bookstore Rough Draft opened in 2018 in a historic stone building in Kingston’s Stockade District, it was rapidly embraced by longtime locals and visitors alike. Rough Draft has everything you need to post up for the whole day. Roll in at 9am, plug in your laptop, and work away while you sip on a Counter Culture latte or Nitro cold brew (on tap) and munch on a croissant. Then, when lunch rolls around, order a DUB pie (perhaps lemongrass chicken?). When you need a stand-and-stretch browse the selection of new and bestselling books, including curated collections on themes like antiracism. And finally, when the end of work is nigh, order your first beer or hard cider from the impressive selection of local drafts. This community living room serves as a meeting place for everything from first dates to job interviews to study groups. Nightly events feature local authors, special guests, trivia, and book club discussions.

Spotty Dog Books and Ale HUDSON

Spotty Dog Books and Ale was the first to send boozy bookworms into fits of delight, when they pioneered the winning bar/bookstore combo locally in 2005. Located in the historic C. H. Evans firehouse on Hudson’s Warren Street, the Spotty Dog offers up plenty of antique charm alongside a selection of over 10,000 new books, ranging from vegan cookbooks to feminist manifestos, Pride celebrations to the latest novel du jour, and beautifully illustrated children’s editions. There is also an art section in the back of the shop, with supplies for everyone from kids to professional artists. At the bar, you’ll find a selection of craft beer from local brewers, sustainably sourced white and red wines, French-press coffee, and craft sodas. Spotty Dog also hosts live music nights, book signings, and multimedia performances.

Oblong Books & Music

RHINEBECK & MILLERTON

Oblong Books and Music, with locations in Rhinebeck and Millerton, is the largest independent bookseller in the Mid-Hudson Valley. Oblong is named after a historic district created when the colonies of New York and Connecticut both laid claim to the same strip of land in the late 1600s, which then existed as an outlaw territory until the two states ratified a border agreement. These two locations have a large selection of children’s books and toys, local-author books, and bargain books. You can also attend live events like author conversations, book signings, and poetry readings.

The Golden Notebook WOODSTOCK

Named for the original owner Ellen Shapiro’s favorite Doris Lessing novel, this cozy indie bookstore on Tinker Street in Woodstock has been a cornerstone of the community since 1978. The Golden Notebook carries a wide variety of literature, history books, poetry, children’s books, classics, an entire shelf of Penguin Classics, as well as a large selection of works by local authors. The shop, which cosponsors the annual Woodstock Book Fest, regularly hosts author signings and community nonprofit events all year round. Find out everything you’ve ever wanted to know about Woodstock in a special section dedicated to the history of the town. The shop launched its own publishing imprint earlier this year with the publication of Abigail Thomas’s memoir Still Life at 80: The Next Interesting Thing.

Rough Draft Bar & Books, Kingston

Merritt Bookstore MILLBROOK

This Millbrook bookshop and toy store offers a wide variety of new releases and classic books for all ages, as well as toys, games, puzzles, cards, stationary, wrapping paper, and other little fun gifts. Check out their large selections on social justice, adult graphic novels, historical books, and audio books on CD. If you see any books with a grey cover, know that they might be a part of the Persephone book collection, which seeks to re-publish books that were unjustly out of print. Merritt Bookstore hosts an annual Millbrook Literary Festival, which brings together nationally recognized authors and local writers with a local community of readers. The store is open seven days a week and has a seating area for you to cozy up and test-drive a book while browsing.

Binnacle Books BEACON

Binnacle Books in Beacon describe themselves as a collaborative endeavor by four partners, who have collectively been writers, editors, musicians, producers, organizers, teachers, filmmakers, and booksellers. This bookstore has a large selection of new and used literature, poetry, literary nonfiction, political history, art, drama, philosophy, graphic novels, and children’s books. Partnered with Beacon Prison Rides and Beacon Prison Action, the shop is a part of the Beacon Prison Books Project which provides incarcerated people in the area with postcards to request books. This store is a convenient stop for visitors, located only a 20-minute walk away from the Metro-North train station.

The Book Cove PAWLING

The Book Cove, located in the heart of Pawling, takes a personal approach to literature. Always happy to recommend or discuss a book, the staff members at this location pride themselves on getting to know their customers and what they like to read. While this location offers new books, it stands out for its selection of rare and out-of-print books, which cover topics ranging from gardening and history to religion and music. If you’re looking for more than literature, the Book Cove also sells stationary, napkins, candles, eyeglasses, puzzles, socks, bookends, soaps, CBD oil, various home decor items, and a selection of kids’ toys, such as Pusheen plushies and Lego sets.

27 Garden street. Poughkeepsie. NY. @canvasandclothier OPEN DAILY 11-6

A micro department store committed to domestic manufacturing and the community it creates. Brought to you by Utility Canvas + Hudson Clothier.

CREATIVE ENDEAVORS

BY LIAM DRAUF

As the leaves turn to fiery shades and the crisp autumn breeze sweeps through the Hudson Valley, a cultural symphony unfolds. From captivating exhibitions and immersive performances to thought-provoking theater and uproarious comedy, this fall season promises an array of artistic delights. “Shifting Center” at EMPAC invites you to embark on a sonic journey, while the Red Lion Inn hosts the mesmerizing illustrations of Ralph Steadman. Beacon Bonfire ignites the city with creativity, and “Sympathetic Magic” at Bridge Street Theater explores the cosmos of human emotions. Get ready to dance with Bodytraffic, laugh with Samantha Bee and Lewis Black, and rediscover Jane Austen’s world in “Miss Bennet: Christmas at Pemberley.” Plus, don’t miss the fascinating exhibitions at Magazzino and Lehman Loeb Art Center. The Hudson Valley’s fall culture scene is a vibrant tapestry of inspiration and innovation.

“Shifting Center” EMPAC

October 27-29; November 3-18

The Experimental Media and Performing Arts Center at RPI in Troy presents “Shifting Center,” curated by Nida Ghouse and Vic Brooks. The exhibition engages in the speculative construction of premodern and Indigenous instruments and repertoires through sound and structures. Of special note is Beatriz Cortez’s sculpture Ilopango, the

Volcano that Left, a steel sculpture that spent the summer at Storm King Art Center. It will travel upriver October 27-29 on a three-day performative journey along the Hudson River to Troy. The volcano can be witnessed as it sails upriver from various viewing points on both shores and online through a livestream.

“Ride the Thunder” RED LION INN

Through October 31

The iconic Stockbridge, Massachusetts, hotel is host to a captivating exhibition of the work of illustrator Ralph Steadman, best known for his collaborations with gonzo journalist Hunter S. Thompson. Copresented with the Norman Rockwell Museum and Theory

Wellness, “Ride the Thunder” showcase 50 original pieces from “The Kentucky Derby,” the seminal article that resulted from Steadman and Thompson’s Louisville experience at the Kentucky Derby, alongside “Fear and Loathing,” a psychedelic journey to the heart of the American dream.

A Ralph Steadman retrospective at the Red Lion Inn, Stockbridge, MA

Portrait of George Washington, Gilbert Stuart, American (1755 –1828)

Beacon Bonfire

November 4-5

Beacon takes its name from the signal fires lit atop Mount Beacon during the Revolutionary War. The city’s current resident creatives have seized on the fire metaphor for a weekend of performance and celebration. Now in its third year, Beacon Bonfire presents two days of immersive programming and activations at 23 venues across the city, featuring 150 performances from music to theater and more.

“Sympathetic Magic”

BRIDGE STREET THEATER

November 9-19

Catskill’s indie playhouse presents Lanford Wilson’s 1997 Obie Award-winning play. “Sympathetic Magic” follows a group of friends and family in San Francisco as they confront various personal crises—an unwanted pregnancy, marital strife, AIDS—against the backdrop of a discovery of astronomical (literally) proportions. Directed by John Sowle and starring Brian Sheppard, Molly Parker Myers, Timothy Dunn, Abby Burris, and Seth McNeil.

Bodytraffic

MAHAIWE PERFORMING ARTS CENTER

November 10-11

Los Angeles-based dance troupe Bodytraffic has made waves from coast to coast with its

varied repertoire of contemporary works. Artistic Director Tina Finkelman Berkett leads a masterful troupe, all nimble interpreters of each choreographers’ distinct vision, this absorbing, thought-provoking, and vividly theatrical company assures an entertaining evening of dance in Great Barrington, Massachusetts. Surprising and unforgettable, BODYTRAFFIC is “one of the most talkedabout companies nationwide” (LA Times).

Samantha Bee BARDAVON

November 17

Stand-up Bee’s new live show, “Your Favorite Woman” celebrates the fact that women are fully f*cking cool, despite what six Supreme Court Justices seem to think. The former host of “Full Frontal with Samantha Bee,” which ran for seven seasons on TBS, Bee brings a pointedly pro-woman edge to her comedy.

Lewis Black

PARAMOUNT HUDSON VALLEY

November 17

The King of Rant returns to Peekskill with his “Off the Rails” tour. Black’s trademark style of comedic yelling and finger pointing exposes the absurdities and hypocrisies of contemporary life. A winner of two Grammy awards, Black has published three bestselling books and he keeps his fans up to speed with his current annoyances via his Rant Cast podcast.

Bodytraffic performs at the Mahaiwe in November

“Miss Bennet: Christmas at Pemberley” SHADOWLAND THEATER

December 1-17

One of the most popularly produced plays in the country since its premiere, this hilarious sequel to Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice is set two years after the novel ends. Bookish Mary has grown tired of her role as the dutiful middle sister in the face of her siblings’ romantic endeavors. But things change when an unexpected guest shows up for the family’s Christmas gathering at Pemberley, sparking Mary’s hope for independence, an intellectual equal, and maybe even love.

“Mario Schifano: The Rise of the ‘60s” MAGAZZINO

Through January 14

Magazzino, the Cold Spring-based mecca mid-20th century Italian art, opened its new 20,000-square-foot Robert Olnick Pavilion this fall. It will provide space for Magazzino to range more widely through modern

and contemporary Italian art and present significant works on loan. One of the first exhibitions will be a survey of trailblazing painter Mario Schifano, whose work was an Italian parallel to Pop Art in America.

“Silver Linings” LEHMAN LOEB ART CENTER

Through January 28

This exhibition highlights the collection of Spelman College Museum of Fine Arts, which has a mission to uplift art by and about women of the African diaspora. “Silver Linings” shares the works of masters, pioneers and trailblazers who anchor the Spelman collection. Among the 40 works in the exhibition there are sculptures by Beverly Buchanan, Selma Burke, and Elizabeth Catlett; paintings by Betty Blayton, Sam Gilliam, and Henry Ossawa Tanner; drawings by Herman “Kofi” Bailey, Nellie Mae Rowe, and Charles White; photographs by Amalia Amaki, Carrie Mae Weems, and Lorna Simpson; and mixed-media work by Emma Amos, Benny Andrews, and Romare Bearden.

Carrie Mae Weems (b. 1953), Color Real and Imagined, 2014, Archival inkjet print with silkscreen color blocks, 54 3/4 × 38 3/4 in., Spelman College Museum of Fine Art, Gift of Laural Shackelford

Photo by John Cody

A DEEP PAST

BY RYAN KEEGAN

For hundreds of years, curators, conservators, and dedicated volunteers have taken great care to maintain the many historic sites of the Hudson Valley. Expertly preserved, these revered landmarks include elegant mansions, humble cottages, and a mesmerizing historic street. Any student of history will delight in seeing the collections of relics and antiques at the various estates and museums. While these sites each present their own architectural marvels, they also educate us about rich periods of history that signify more than just visual spectacle. Come visit, and decide on your own if history should repeat itself.

Historic Huguenot Street NEW PALTZ

Walk through over 300 years of history at this 10-acre National Historic Landmark District in New Paltz. Originally founded in 1894, Historic Huguenot Street was created to preserve the French and Dutch heritage of New Paltz’s first European settlers, who homesteaded the land in the 17th century. Today, the street showcases seven historic stone house

museums, a reconstructed 1717 French Church, the community’s original burying ground, and a replica Esopus Munsee wigwam. Huguenot Street’s permanent collection of artifacts includes historic clothing, textiles, and colonial manuscripts, while also showcasing pieces relating to African American history, Indigenous peoples in the Hudson Valley, and the Civil War. This past July, Huguenot Street commissioned the translation of over 190 pages of historical documents from Dutch to English, revealing insights about the religious lives of the original residents and their connection to the wider world.

Locust Grove POUGHKEEPSIE

Set on a hill overlooking the Hudson River and encompassing 200 acres of landscaped grounds, Locust Grove is a historic estate, museum, and nature preserve in Poughkeepsie. You can take a guided tour through a 25-room Italianate mansion, walk through five miles of hiking trails, and explore a visitor welcome center with art galleries, a museum shop, and classrooms for educational programs. The site’s Transverse Gallery of Contemporary Art

Historic Huguenot Street, New Paltz

Photo by David McIntyre

hosts four to six solo exhibits by contemporary artists each year, and from September through December, Locust Grove offers regular Sunset Sensations events that feature culinary samples and wine tastings from different local businesses.

Olana State Historic Site HUDSON

In the late 1860s, Hudson River School artist Frederic Church worked with architect Calvert Vaux to design a home that incorporated exotic architectural elements that Church encountered while traveling the world. This elaborately stenciled, Persian-inspired mansion, once the primary home of Frederic and Isabel Church and their four children, is now part of the 250-acre Olana State Historic Site. Today, visitors can enjoy a guided tour of the house, which is filled with original sketches, studies, and paintings. You can also view changing exhibits in the Evelyn and Maurice Sharp Gallery or take part in programs and special events for all ages.

Staatsburgh State Historic Site STAATSBURG

Overlooking the Hudson River and Catskill Mountains, Staatsburgh State Historic Site

hosts an elegant mansion once owned by Ruth Livingston and Ogden Mills. In 1895, the couple chose to remodel their 25-room Greek Revival home into a 79-room Beaux-Arts mansion. Now open for tours, you can see the family’s original furniture and art in this prestigious historic home, including carved and gilded pieces, fine oriental rugs, silk fabrics, and a collection of art objects from Europe, Asia, and ancient Greece. The mansion’s 60-foot-long dining room shows off a luxurious marble floor, marble walls, and multiple 17th-century Belgian tapestries.

Washington’s Headquarters NEWBURGH

For those looking to learn about the older history of our young nation, Washington’s Headquarters is the place to visit. Currently furnished to reflect General George Washington’s stay, this farmhouse turned military HQ was the site of multiple crucial moments during the first president’s time in Newburgh. From April 1782 to August 1783, Washington conducted his military duties in Jonathan and Tryntje Hasbrouck family’s fieldstone farmhouse, where he oversaw troops, negotiated with the Continental Congress, and even rejected the suggestion of an American monarchy. The Hasbrouck house is open

Thomas Cole Historic Site, Catskill

Photo by Rachel Stults

for guided tours, and an adjacent museum displays over 1,300 artifacts.

Thomas Cole Historic Site CATSKILL

The Thomas Cole Historic Site preserves the original home and studios of Thomas Cole, the artist and early environmentalist who cofounded the Hudson River School of American landscape painting. The grounds are open for free every day from dawn to dusk, and you can purchase general admission tickets to visit all three buildings on site. You can also buy tickets for an hour-long minute guided tour of the house and studio, Wednesday through Friday at 2pm. Take a look at exhibitions of 19th century masterpiece paintings, including works by Thomas Cole himself, or visit the gift shop in the 1839 storehouse.

Clermont State Historic Site GERMANTOWN

Burned down by the British army in 1777, this former home of the Livingston family has taken on a different face for each generation that’s occupied it. Originally a Georgian Mansion, the house was regularly modified until it came to its present appearance, now standing decorated as it appeared in 1930. Apart from the mansion, Clermont’s 500 acres also include landscaped gardens, meadows, and woodlands. There are five miles of marked nature trails and three miles of marked bridle trails open daily from 8:30am until dusk. Stroll through the woods or participate in special events like the Fall Forest Bathing Walk on October 14.

Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site HYDE PARK

Originally built as a furniture factory for Val-Kill industries, this cottage eventually became the personal retreat for First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt. The site consists of two main buildings—Val-Kill Cottage and the Stone Cottage—but also sports multiple trails and floral scenes. Located within a temperate deciduous forest biome, Val-Kill’s outdoor sights include a pond, a cutting garden, an outdoor picnic fireplace, and a tennis court. The site’s top Cottage trail will take you to the highest point of the Hyde Park Trails. If you’re up for it, feel free to visit the nearby Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Library and Museum, the nation’s very first presidential library and museum, to see exhibits and interactive galleries that tell the story of FDR’s presidency.

Photo Credit : Peter Aaron/OTTO

Urgent Care in the Mid-Hudson Valley

It can be frustrating when minor illnesses strike during a winter getaway upstate. Instead of heading straight to the hospital emergency room, however, visitors in the Mid-Hudson Valley who find themselves dealing with sprains, strains, cuts, fractures, and respiratory symptoms can consider seeing a community clinician in the Albany Med Health System.

With 16 rapid and urgent care centers across the region, providers in the Albany Med Health System—the area’s only locally managed health care system—treat illnesses and injuries for patients of all ages in comfortable, state-of-the-art settings close to home or where they’re staying.

Seven days a week, patients have access to highly trained providers who provide the care they need to get back on their feet and on their way. In Columbia and Greene counties, the Albany Med Health System operates urgent care clinics in Catskill, Coxsackie, Saugerties, and Valatie through its community-based providers, Albany Medical Center and

Columbia Memorial Health.

“Our urgent care centers are staffed by providers with training and experience in emergency medicine. They have the skills and knowledge needed to accurately and quickly diagnose each patient,” says Dr. Michael Weisberg, the chief of emergency medicine at Columbia Memorial Health who also oversees its rapid care sites in Catskill and Valatie.

By linking together providers in more than 100 different medical specialties with the region’s only academic medical center and Level I trauma center, the Albany Med Health System is expanding access to healthcare across the region, particularly in rural communities where it’s needed most.

“Many of our providers have been in the area for years,” Dr. Weisberg says. “Our patients are our neighbors, and we have a true connection to our community.”

For a complete list of rapid and urgent care providers, visit Albanymed.org.

SIX FAMILYFRIENDLY NATURE WALKS

The Hudson Valley boasts some of the most beautiful scenery in the country and trails for every ability level. From our rolling peaks and rich forests to our meandering cloves and cool mountain streams, the Hudson Valley is a nature lover’s paradise.

One of the most important aspects of planning a family-friendly nature walk is choosing the right trail. You’ll want to select a trail that’s suitable for everyone in your party, especially the youngest members, so everyone can enjoy the experience without getting tired or overwhelmed. The following six Hudson Valley nature walks are relatively quick, with minimal elevation gain—perfect for families with young children who want to explore the outdoors, get some exercise, and soak up the natural beauty.

Ashokan Quarry Trail

TRAILHEAD LOCATION: Olive

HIKE LENGTH: 2-mile lollipop loop

TOTAL ASCENT: 190 feet

TIME: 1 hour

INTENSITY: Easy

This short two-mile hike on the south side of the Ashokan Reservoir is one of the most doable and entertaining hikes. With its mix

of ruins, varied forests, an old quarry, and a few fantastic scenic spots, it’s sure to keep everyone interested. Block out an hour to enjoy this short gem of a hike. Although there are no tricky sections on this route, extra care should be taken near the top of the quarry cliff face, especially for very young children and excitable pets. For bonus points and spectacular mountain views, tack on a visit to the nearby Ashokan Promenade.

Sloan Gorge Preserve

TRAILHEAD LOCATION: Woodstock

HIKE LENGTH: 1.6-mile loop

TOTAL ASCENT: 70 feet

TIME: 1 hour

INTENSITY: Easy

Nestled at the base of Overlook Mountain in Woodstock, this short, fun hike through land donated by renowned Woodstock artist Allan Edward Sloan combines historical ruins, an abandoned bluestone quarry, and a stunning route through an ancient geological gorge. For such a short hike, it packs in so much: vernal pools, a seasonal stream, a mix of hardwood and evergreen forests, and imposing quarry cliffs. There’s even a small split-rock chasm called the Chimney that kids will love exploring.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY SEAN O’DWYER

Ashokan Quarry Trail, Olive

Sloan Gorge Preserve, Woodstock

Lion’s Head, Salisbury, CT

Diamond Notch Falls

TRAILHEAD LOCATION: West Kill

HIKE LENGTH: 1.9 miles total, in-and-out

TOTAL ASCENT: 200 feet

TIME: 2 hours

INTENSITY: Easy

The easy hike to the double-waterfall in Diamond Notch is one of the most popular ways for hikers to immerse themselves in the deep beauty of the Catskills. Walk along the West Kill mountain stream until, about a mile-and-a-half from the trailhead, you get to the stunning footbridge. Below the footbridge, the double-falls are both a worthy destination for a day-hike and a welcome end-of-hike foot-spa for weary mountain hikers returning from nearby Hunter or West Kill mountains. The falls are worth visiting any time of year, but are especially magical in deep summer when the forest is lush, and again in deep winter when the falls are frozen-over. This hike can be extended a further 0.75 miles up over Diamond Notch itself, with only an additional 360 feet of elevation gain, to a terrific scenic lookout. You’ll come to an obvious boulder on the trail just below the far side of the hump. From there, 13 miles in the distance but clearly visible, you’ll see the Burroughs Range —Wittenberg, Cornell, and Slide mountains—so named for local boy John Burroughs who became a famous chronicler of the natural world.

Lion’s Head

TRAILHEAD LOCATION: Salisbury, CT

HIKE LENGTH: 2 miles total, out and back

TOTAL ASCENT: 550 feet

TIME: 1.5 hour

INTENSITY: Moderate

A little more strenuous, but still very doable, this short hike to a sweet rocky lookout can fit handily into a morning or an afternoon, without taking over the whole day. This is also a fantastic shakeoff-the-day, after-work hike if you live nearby. Most of the trail is flat but, near the summit hump, a steep-ish section provides a short but solid workout climb to an open summit. By a pine tree with a wooden summit marker, you’ll find the ledge with sweeping views of Connecticut below. Two sweet bonuses: The parking area is large and you’ll have good cell service for almost the entire hike.

Vernooy Falls and Mill Ruins

TRAILHEAD LOCATION: Kerhonkson

HIKE LENGTH: 3.5 miles total, in-and-out

TOTAL ASCENT: 300 feet

TIME: 2 hours

INTENSITY: Moderate

It’s difficult to beat this quick hike to a set of remarkable old mill ruins that sit below one of the great Catskills multistage waterfalls. The trail winds through alternating stands

of hemlock, white pine, and mountain laurel, which blooms so fantastically from late May through early June. Fun stream crossings and multiple footbridges along the route are a dreamy aesthetic bonus. The ruins at the falls date back about 200 years when this intersection was a major crossroads where farmers brought their grain for milling. This trail can be a little muddy, so it’s a good idea to pack proper hiking footwear.

Dibble’s Quarry

TRAILHEAD LOCATION: Elka Park

HIKE LENGTH: 2 miles total, in-and-out

TOTAL ASCENT: 450 feet

TIME: 1.5 hours

INTENSITY: Moderate

Dibble’s Quarry is one of the great Catskills locations. Less than a mile from the trailhead, and steeped in early settler history, you’ll find a sprawling abandoned bluestone quarry. Sit in the grand stone thrones with exceptional views of Platte Clove and Kaaterskill High Peak to your left and Twin mountain to your right. This hike can also be extended beyond the quarry, down over a stunningly picturesque mountain brook crossing, and uphill to the edge of an enormous abandoned beaver pond with views of Twin and Sugarloaf mountains. The additional leg adds a mile and 200 feet of elevation gain to the hike.

Vernooy Falls and Mill Ruins, Kerhonkson

Dibbles Quarry, Elka Park

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