Explore South Summer 2020-21 by Explore South magazine

There’s a unique atmosphere in Hanmer Springs; a laid-back, relaxed vibe that makes visitors feel like a weight has been lifted from their shoulders. Just 90 minutes from Christchurch but a world away from the hustle and bustle, this special part of the country is home to some of New Zealand’s most breath-taking scenery. Get amongst nature and fill your lungs with fresh air, enjoy lazy days in some of the region’s world-class boutique accommodation spots, or treat yourself to a rejuvenating trip to the Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa. visithanmersprings.co.nz

HURUNUI, NORTH CANTERBURY 4 Explore South

FOREWORD Editorial

EXPLORE

EXPLORE THE MIDDLE ISLAND…

EDITOR Gavin Bertram gavin.bertram@alliedpress.co.nz

(o r w h a teve r i t ’s ca l l e d n ow)

DESIGN Michael Devereux CONTRIBUTORS: Gavin Bertram Sally Blundell Lisa Scott ChristchurchNZ, Tiffany Young/Destination Fiordland, Destination Queenstown, Enterprise Dunedin, Great South, Marlborough NZ, Nelson Tasman, Tourism Central Otago, Tourism Waitaki, Tourism West Coast, Visit Hurunui. P H O T O G R A P H Y:

AMA Productions, Calle Bredberg/ Photo New Zealand, Cardrona Distillery, ChristchurchNZ, Guy Cotter, Glyn Davies, Dark Sky Project, Destination Fiordland, Destination Queenstown, Enterprise Dunedin, Great South, Highland Museum, iStock, Marlborough NZ, Nathan Meikle, Mirage Films, Derek Morrison, Nelson Tasman Otago Daily Times, THE Film/Little Bird, Tourism Central Otago, Tourism New Zealand, Tourism Waitaki, Tourism West Coast, Visit Hurunui, Wingnut Films, Vicki Williams. ADVERTISING

“There’s no place like home.” – (Dorothy, The Wizard of Oz)

Sales manager Nic Dahl (03 479-3567) nic.dahl@alliedpress.co.nz C O N TA C T Email: escape.south@alliedpress.co.nz Online: issuu.com/exploresouth Facebook: @exploresouthmagazine Instagram: @exploresouthmagazine Twitter: @south_explore General enquiries to Explore South magazine, PO Box 517, Dunedin 9054. Phone (03) 477-4760. Published by Allied Press Ltd, 52 Stuart St, Dunedin 9016. © 2020. All rights reserved. Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the publisher or editor. Printed and distributed by Ovato NZ. ISSN 2744-3574 (Print); ISSN 2744-3582 (Online).

FOCUSED

AGILE

CREATIVE

COLLABORATIVE

TRUSTED

he South Island never ceases to surprise. Having spent most of my life here I recently discovered I could have been living on the Middle Island all this time. While the moniker seems entirely too Tolkienesque to be true, the antique map in a local auction catalogue confirmed that the South Island wasn’t always so. It was only named that in 1907, when the Minister for Lands decided it was time to ditch Middle Island, and the earlier New Munster title. Of course, the island was already Te Waipounamu or Te Waka a Māui to Māori. Only in 2013 was it officially named the South Island or Te Waipounamu. Those who live here sometimes refer to it as the Mainland - a one-eyed denial of the North

Island’s primary position in New Zealand in terms of population and dominance of public consciousness. It’s a classic underdog attitude and largely understandable. Living in Wellington - from where you can see the South Island on a good day - I knew people who’d never crossed Cook Strait. In Auckland, I was the only person in a large office who hailed from the south. Most of my colleagues had never ventured to the South Island. But there is a reason why millions of overseas tourists have delighted in what this place has to offer. With international travel largely off the menu at present, it’s the perfect time to see what’s on your door step, and explore the south for yourself. Gavin Bertram

Milford Galleries Dunedin

Queenstown

Representing many of New Zealandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most significant artists with a dynamic solo exhibition programme in two locations and the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest art stockroom

Milford Galleries 18 Dowling St Dunedin - 9A Earl St Queenstown

w w w.milfordgalleries.co.nz Explore South 7

C O N T E N T S Foreword

Editorial: Explore the Middle Island.

Off the Edge: Filmed in the South Island.

Events: What’s on in the south.

Art: Neil Dawson’s Feathers 2020.

Spirits of the South: Continuing the southern distilling tradition.

Sport: Neil Wagner’s freakish five.

Motorhead Heaven: 10 of the best car museums.

Dark Skies: The best places to stargaze in the south.

Born to be Wild: Great adventures in the southern wilderness.

Place: Theresa Gattung on Tarras.

Book: Derek Morrison’s new Surf Dreams.

Food: Best burgers, + 48 hours in Arrowtown

8 Explore South

Destinations

Features 20 28 30 32 38 44 52 60 62 64 66 68 70

Central Otago Queenstown Marlborough Nelson Golf in Queenstown Dunedin Cycle Trails Hurunui Waitaki Fiordland Christchurch West Coast Southland

Endnotes

They came here: Mark Twain.

Column: Lisa Scott’s Top of the South.

Explore South 9

FOREWORD What’s On

OF THE BEST

Gibbston Valley Winery Summer Concert Saturday, January 23, 2021; Gibbston Valley Winery, Queenstown.

Live music has been a rare treat this year, making the incredible line-up for January’s Gibbston Valley Winery Summer Concert all the more enticing. New Zealand’s own Gin Wigmore will be joined by a raft of Antipodean rock royalty - The Angels, Dragon, Pseudo Echo, and Mi-Sex. There’s an entire jukebox worth of classics right there, including No Secrets, April Sun in Cuba, Funky Town, Computer Games, and Wigmore’s platinum hit Oh My. See www.greenstoneentertainment.co.nz

...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... ....

Black Caps v Australia

Thursday, February 25, 2021; University Oval, Dunedin. New Zealand may be the envy of the cricketing world this summer, as we get to relax in the sun and enjoy the game while other countries are still locked down. And there’s a feast of international cricket action coming up, with the West Indies, Pakistan, Australia, and Bangladesh all visiting these shores. While the Boxing Day test against Pakistan is being played in Tauranga, the South Island is getting some action this summer. The second test of that series is being played at Christchurch’s Hagley Oval in early January, where the first T20 against Australia will also be played on February 22. Later that week the Aussies will visit Dunedin’s glorious University Oval for the second match in what will no doubt be a tightly contested series of five T20s. See www.nzc.nz

10 Explore South

Motatapu

March 13, 2021; Wanaka to Queenstown. Spanning some of the most stunning high country on offer, the annual Macpac Motatapu is one of New Zealand’s favourite off-road events. Starting at Glendhu Bay on Lake Wanaka, the Motatapu offers a range of seven races for mountain bikers, runners, and triathletes, plus shorter runs near Arrowtown. Saturday March 13 sees the 47km mountain bike, 51km ultra run, off-road marathon and the 15km Miners Trail run. Now’s the perfect time to experience the legend that is the Motatapu. See motatapu.com

Ripe - The Wanaka Wine & Food Festival

Sunday March 21, 2021; 707 Wanaka-Luggate Highway, Wānaka. There’s arguably no greater food and wine producing region in this country than Central Otago. Ripe is a new festival that will celebrate the viticulture industry and culinary scene in the area, at Corbridge Estate near Wānaka. Included in the line-up of wineries at Ripe are Amisfield, Ceres, Akarua, Mishas, Maude, and Māori Point, while there’ll also be food from the likes of Hook and The Stoaker Room, and beer from bEffect. The Jordan Luck Band are playing, while celebrity chef and Central Otago local - Nadia Lim will be appearing. See ripewanaka.nz

Inside Out Garden Tour 2020

Saturday and Sunday November 28-29, 2020; Akaroa and the Bays, Banks Peninsula. If you enjoy sneaking a peek into other people’s gardens, the Inside Out Akaroa House and Garden Tour is for you. Held every two years, the event will allow access to some of the most beautiful gardens in the South Island, some of which have never before been open to the public. The two days of the tour allow visitors to discover the 13 gardens at their own pace, all in stunning Akaroa and surrounding bays on Banks Peninsula, near Christchurch. Gardens open from 10 am – 5 pm all weekend, and tickets are $30. See www.akaroa.com

Explore South 11

Visit the original SPEIGHT’S ALE HOUSE The Speight’s Ale House at 200 Rattray St in Dunedin was the original Ale House to open in New Zealand.

n August 1999 Mark and Kirstin Scully opened the Ale House within the historic Speight’s Brewery. This coincided with extensive work done to open the Brewery Tour, Heritage Centre and Shop. It was a major investment that has seen the Speight’s Brewery remain a vibrant and popular part of Dunedin. The Speight’s Ale House uniquely stocks the entire Speight’s range as well as seasonal releases. When the original Ale House was opened the challenge given to the chefs was to produce hearty, value for money servings of southern fare. Nothing has changed the menu still features Ale House classics like seafood chowder, blue cod, lamb

shanks, steak, and venison, as well as vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. All meals are expertly matched to one of our fine tap ales, and an extensive range of wines, spirits, coffees, and nonalcoholic drinks are also available. The Speight’s Ale House also offers set menu options for groups, including package deals which can include a tour of the brewery. The Speight’s Ale House is a fantastic venue for a group outing whether it is for a meal, drinks and nibbles in the bar or to enjoy the game on the big screen. The success of the Speight’s Ale House in Dunedin led to the establishment of an extensive network of restaurants throughout the country.

Speight's Brewery tour Pride of the South since 1876, the Speight’s Brewery and the Beer we produce are an icon of Dunedin. Share our journey, by taking the recently redeveloped tour. During your 40 minute experience you will touch, smell and taste your way through this heritage site. Share the history of our three founders, and what brought them together to create the South’s most popular brew. Learn about the core ingredients that goes into our award-winning beer and see where and how it is brewed. Why not match our offering with some Evansdale Cheese or Seriously Good Chocolates – we are able to create a Speight’s Tour experience that’s the perfect fit for you. Good on ya mate.

Enjoy local ales & a hearty meal in a historic setting Open 7 days for lunch and dinner

We take bookings and you can even pre-order your meals, so there is no wait!

Rattray St, Dunedin • 471-9050 www.thealehouse.co.nz

E: manager@thealehouse.co.nz

Explore South 13

Travel your way through the Waitaki The Waitaki has many inspiring spots on offer, so we have created some touring routes to show you the way and guide you around to discover the highlights of our beautiful region.

Coastal Tour : 1-2 days / 108km one way This tour follows the Pacific coast, which is packed with charming towns, unique wildlife, amazing geology and stunning, isolated sandy beaches. State Highway 1 winds its way down the coast with many opportunities to stop and enjoy the sights. This tour route will take you through Kakanui, Hampden, Moeraki and Palmerston.

Moeraki Boulders

Coastal Tour

Geo-Highlights Tour : 1-2 days / 140km one way This tour takes you to some of the fascinating inland Geo-site highlights of the Waitaki Whitestone Aspiring Geopark. The area is shaped by the movement of the mighty Waitaki River, carving a course through the land from the feet of Aoraki Mt Cook all the way to the Pacific Ocean just North of Ōamaru. Our Geosites allow you to explore volcanic remnants and discover the past inhabitants of these places, from microscopic diatoms to giant prehistoric penguins and plesiosaurs. Explore the towns of Duntroon, Kurow, Otematata and Omarama on this tour route.

Lake Benmore

Geo-Highlights Tour

Geo-Vistas Tour : 1-3 days / 260km one way This tour takes you to some of the regions most beautiful and fascinating vistas. Make sure your camera is charged because you’ll be wanting to take many photos. Every stop is 100% #instagood. Explore the region, from the mountains to the sea, through some of the most picturesque geo-vistas within the Waitaki Whitestone Aspiring Geopark. It’s a driving tour that works well as a two or three day trip, with Ōamaru as your centre. This tour route will take you through Ohau, Omarama, Otematata, Kurow, Duntroon, Ōamaru, Kakanui, Hampden, Moeraki and Palmerston.

Oamaru’s Victorian Precinct Tour: 30min – 1h / 0,7km one way

Clay Cliffs

www.whitestonegeopark.nz

Geo-Vistas Tour

This Walking Tour takes you through New Zealand’s best preserved Victorian commercial streetscape. Discover Ōamaru’s vibrant colonial history and be immersed in Ōamaru’s rich heritage, culture and geology. The original buildings in the Victorian Precinct, made from locally quarried limestone, are a testament to Ōamaru’s boom era, when it was an important port town, sending the first grain and wool shipments. Today, the buildings are filled with galleries, shops, artisans, and delicious places to eat and drink. Find out more on these tours on Tourism Waitaki’s website www.waitakinz.com/itineraries. The itineraries can also be downloaded for free from Waitaki Whitestone Geopark’s App (Playstore, App Store)

Explore more at www.waitakinz.com & www.whitestonegeopark.nz

Criterion Hotel

Oamaru’s Victorian Precinct Tour

e-bike supreme! explore the range at

The smiling machines from France.

eBikeStudio .co.nz

www .

.nz co

argeabout. h c visit us at our

QUEENSTOWN ride centre

NEW 2021 Moustache Xroad Open, with advanced triple cavity frame - strong, smart and light. The star of the Auckland eBike Expo, this is the benchmark in comfort, control & reliability.

In 2015, we urged our friends at Moustache Bikes to create an eBike specifically for riding recreational gravel trails such as the Otago Rail Trail and Alps to Ocean. Enter the Moustache Xroad, a thoughtful amalgamation of mountain and urban eBikes. New Zealandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite recreational ride is now in its third evolution. Experience for yourself the comfort and control of these beautiful bikes.

Explore the range from comfort focused rail trail rides to race winning mountain machines.

Book a test ride with one of our hand picked Moustache dealers throughout New Zealand.

eBikeStudio .co.nz/dealers

tel. 03 442 6376

FOREWORD Art

Canterbury sculptor Neil Dawson with works from Feathers 2020. (Photos: Glyn Davies.)

F R AGM E N TS of f l i g ht By Sally Blundell

A s i f ca u g h t i n g e n t l e f re e fa l l , n i n e l a rg e r- t h a n - l i fe fe a t h e rs g ra ze t h e wa l l s o f t h e M i l fo rd G a l l e r i es i n D u n e d i n . Ta i l fe a t h e rs , w i n g fe a t h e rs , d ow n fe a t h e rs ; fe a t h e rs o f ka h u , ko ta re, b l u e j a y, p a r ro t .

16 Explore South

“In all of my work I am trying to create that sense of something that is substantial but also light and deceptively simple,” Canterbury sculptor Neil Dawson says. “That is the thing about a feather. I‘ve always picked them up and you marvel every time you do. They have carried birds that run the globe and now they have served their purpose. They are fragments of flight.” Neil Dawson is an Arts Laureate, a Companion of the New Zealand Order of Merit, a sculptor of international standing. In New Zealand and around the world, in lofty civic spaces, domestic interiors and outdoor spaces, his laser-cut, aluminium and steel sculptures hover like ephemeral figments of our imagination. Using the essential sculptural tools of structure, design and scale, his works – suspended or bolted high above our heads – skew expectations of perspective, volume and mass. As seen in Chalice in Christchurch’s Cathedral Square, Ferns in Wellington’s Civic Square, Horizons in Gibbs Farm on Kaipara Harbour and Globe, suspended above the Georges Pompidou Centre in Paris, they are barely-there forms, drawn lines stretching across the landscape or urban air space, filtering light, insinuating depth, flickering between substance and absence. Dawson’s is not a plinth-based practice. He graduated from the University of Canterbury School of Fine Arts in 1970 and the Victorian College of the Arts in Melbourne in 1973. At art school and later when teaching 3D design he gravitated towards the idea of drawing in space. He taught toy-making, admiring their simplicity, their inventiveness, the fact that they don’t have a function “apart from play”. He began making feathers in the early 1980s

I am not trying to tell a story about the extinction of the huia and all of that kind of stuff but I think art can talk about freedom – freedom to fly but also freedom to live, freedom to have a society where you can do what you want. when a friend asked him to design a weather vane. The result was a small, copper feather pivoting on the tip of its quill in response to the wind. Since then new technologies and materials – polycarbonate, translucent acrylic, so-called flip-floor or chameleon paints mimicking the iridescence of duck’s wing – have made his feathers lighter, larger, more reflective, more beguiling in their unique detail of rachis, barb and interlocking barbules. A photograph in the Sydney Morning Herald shows a young Dawson striding along the road, a large feather casually slung over one shoulder, for installation on the roof of the Gallery of New South Wales as part of the 1988 Australian Biennale. In 1990 he created the 10-metre long Featherlight, a single white feather glancing light down through the foyer of the Aotea Centre in Auckland. Birds of a Feather (1997) is a 35-metre long aluminium and stainless steel sculpture hanging palely, ephemerally, in the Tsing Yi MTR Station in Hong Kong. Two years later he installed Feathers, a spiralling helix of 96 feathers representing Australian bird life in the Olympic Stadium in

Sydney. In the International Finance Centre of Shanghai Feather from Afar (2013) is a large, single feather curving lightly, calmly, within the hard-edged context of its financial environment. In more domestic settings feathers up to two metres in length twist and taper, curl and curve, absorbing colour in their mattness, reflecting light in their translucency, changing colour as if catching the sun on a wing. Dawson is a witness to this endless variation. At his home in Banks Peninsula finches hover around the window, pukekos peer in the open door, hawks and kererū soar past, bellbirds drop their exquisite notes. He has a habit of stopping the car to collect feathers from birds killed on the road. He admires their complexity, their efficiency, their durability, their beauty. “I am not trying to tell a story about the extinction of the huia and all of that kind of stuff but I think art can talk about freedom – freedom to fly but also freedom to live, freedom to have a society where you can do what you want.” When the Hong Kong riots were unfolding he kept thinking of Birds of a Feather, hanging quietly, peaceably, in one of the city’s busiest transit concourses. “Again, it is that idea of occupying a space with something positive and also beautiful. And a feather is always going to be something people can identify, people of all ages. If you go into any house, you will find a feather somewhere.” • Feathers 2020, Neil Dawson. Milford Galleries, Dunedin, November 14 – December 8, 2020.

Explore South 17

FOREWORD Sport

WAG N E R ’ S F R E AK I S H F I V E A s fa r a s ove r s u m m a r i es o n a c r i c ke t sco re ca rd g o, W W W W.W i s a r rest i n g by a ny m e a s u re.

hose five Ws and solitary dot were marked next to Neil Wagner’s name a decade ago this summer. The cricketer’s many achievements since including for New Zealand - are unlikely to be as long-lasting in the record books as that one over. South African born Wagner was then a 25-year-old endeavouring to appear on Black Caps selectors radars through fiery bowling performances for Otago. His trademark passion was as impossible to ignore as the statistics on April 6, 2011, at the Queenstown Events Centre. Tearing through the Wellington squad in a Plunket Shield match, Wagner’s performance was a huge factor in Otago’s win by an innings and 138 runs. “This morning I was feeling a bit negative,” Wagner said after the match. “But I kept thinking I want to finish the season on a high and finish in a good way. I wasn’t sure how I was going to do that. The ball started reversing and swinging quite a bit and things started happening. It was freakish.” Wellington were on 136/4 chasing Otago’s first innings score of 441 when he began bowling that over. Opener Stewart Rhodes was settled on 77, with Luke Woodcock on 8 at the other end. Wagner’s first ball snared Rhodes, who was caught by Neil Broom at gully after edging onto his pads. Justin Austin-Smellie’s wickets were destroyed first ball, as were Jeetan Patel’s with the hat-trick ball. Illi Tugaga offered no resistance, bowled first ball, while Mark Gillespie survived one ball before departing in similar fashion. Five wickets in one six-ball first class over had never before been done, and it remains a peerless achievement. Wagner conceded it was a “once in a lifetime achievement”. * The 2020-2021 domestic cricket season sees many T20s, one-dayers, and four-day matches being hosted around the South Island.

18 Explore South

Stay NZ Specials WWW.THEREES.CO.NZ RESERVATIONS@THEREES.CO.NZ 03 450 1100

Proudly New Zealand Owned & Operated. Visit the STAYNZ page on our website to access our special exclusive rates: www.therees.co.nz When enquiring, quote where you saw this advertisement and STAY NZ SPECIAL

EXPLORE THE SOUTH IN STYLE AIR FARES INCLUDED ON SELECT MODELS TO HELP YOU EXPLORE OUR BACKYARD

2019 TOYOTA FORTUNER GXL 4WD

2020 HOLDEN ACADIA LTZ

$1,500 $49,990

7 Seats, V6 AWD, Leather

2017 LEXUS RX 350 LIMITED

2017 LEXUS RX 450h F SPORT

FREE ACCESSORIES

Top Model, Leather, AWD

$64,990

INCLUDES AIRFARES

V6 Hybrid AWD Radar Cruise

$49,990

INCLUDES AIRFARES

$74,990

INCLUDES AIRFARES

2019 LEXUS IS 300h

2.5L V6, Hybrid

Radar Cruise

$54,990

2020 MERCEDES-BENZ X-CLASS POWER 4WD

2.3 Turbo Diesel

2020 LEXUS RX 350 LIMITED

Ex-Demo 20” Alloys

$54,990

INCLUDES AIRFARES leather, 3.5T towing INCLUDES AIRFARES

$89,990

2017 AUDI SQ7 QUATTRO

V8 TT Diesel

INCLUDES AIRFARES 320kW/900Nm

$114,990

INCLUDES AIRFARES

Handily located next to the Queenstown Airport at 52 Lucas Place Call Adam Lawrence today on 021 300 602 to organise your fly & drive experience Terms and conditions apply, airfares to Queenstown or Invercargill for one person only.

www.cardeal.nz

EXPLORE

Central Otago CRUISIN’ THE CLUTHA

Central Otago’s mighty Clutha River is one of New Zealand’s most mesmerising natural features.

(Photos: Tourism Central Otago)

he fastest flowing and highest volume river in the country, it’s also the second longest, running its downward course 338 kilometres from the Southern Alps to the Pacific Ocean. Its stunning scenery, gold-rush history and swift turquoise waters make it a must-explore on any journey through Central. Taking a leisurely river cruise downstream from the township of Alexandra might just be the best way to do exactly that. Meet the cruise boat, Nevache II - a quiet, stable, and smooth-riding pontoon craft - and her skipper at the boat ramp, and settle in for an unrivalled two-and-a-half-hour jaunt through the spectacular Roxburgh Gorge to the perfectly preserved remnants of the 1860s’ gold mine at Doctors Point. Passing under the present day road bridge, the boat glides past historic stone piers and tall towers of the original 1882 suspension bridge to meet the confluence of the Manuherikia and Clutha rivers, and the start of the rugged gorge. Listen to the skipper’s well-polished tales of the Central Otago gold rush as dramatic bluffs rise up on both sides of the river - towering above the boat almost 350 metres at their highest point. This is a unique opportunity to get out among the river’s isolated reaches and

20 Explore South

see some of New Zealand’s best examples of European and Chinese gold mining first hand. Arriving at Doctors Point, where expansive gold workings are testament to endeavour and hardship, the skipper’s mine tour highlights huts and stores tucked away in craggy schist formations, gold workings, and even a pub - relics protected by their isolation and inaccessibility for more than 140 years. Take a good look around before heading back down to the riverbank. Relax waterside, enjoy a cuppa and a snack - or a catered picnic or barbeque - before returning upstream to Alexandra. Have less time? Then ramp up the speed with a 60 minute jet boat tour up to Doctors Point and back, taking in the scenery and stories with Hamilton Jet spins and other thrilling manoeuvres. Combining tangible history and dramatic landscapes with a delightful sense of the undiscovered, this journey is unforgettable. Alexandra-based Clutha River Cruises is the only licensed operator providing fully guided and catered tours on the Clutha’s Lake Roxburgh and Lake Dunstan. A jet boat cycle transfer service is available for cyclists riding the Roxburgh Gorge cycle trail. With a multilingual skipper, tour commentaries are given in French and Spanish, as well as English.

S U P P L I E D CO N T E N T

FOREWORD Places

(Photo: James Jubb / Tourism Central Otago.)

LOV E T H I S P L AC E Theresa Gattung on Tarras

T h e Ce n t ra l O ta g o l a n d sca p e i s m a j est i c - I t h i n k i t ’s p hys i ca l l y t h e m ost b e a u t i f u l p a r t o f N ew Ze a l a n d .

usinessperson Theresa Gattung first went to Tarras in Central Otago in 2008. She’d been working with local icon John Perriam on the Wool Partners cooperative, who invited her to his and wife Heather’s home at Bendigo Station. Tarras is now Gattung’s favourite place in the South Island. On her regular trips to Queenstown, she makes sure to visit. “I love the drive from Queenstown, through the gorge, and then scooting around the edge of Cromwell, and instead

22 Explore South

of turning right to Dunedin, turning left to Tarras. I just think it’s delightful, from the little cafe, to the kitchen shop, to Christina Perriam’s original store which is still there - I always go and buy heaps of their lovely merino jerseys and scarves and leatherware and dresses. And there’s the memorial to Shrek, which tells the story about the amazing sheep, who I actually met in the flesh at John and Heather’s house. There’s also Mrs Robinson at Tarras, at the end of the play area. She has such a good eye for that mixture of contemporary and

vintage, and goes all around particularly the South Island selecting pieces, and has a wonderful range of fabrics. And physically the landscape is majestic, the whole of Central Otago, whether you’re into Queenstown, or Wanaka - I think it’s physically the most beautiful part of New Zealand.” • At 37, Theresa Gattung became CEO of Telecom, then the biggest listed company in New Zealand. She’s now a director of My Food Bag, chair of various companies, and actively involved in a number of charities and foundations.

Proud to represent these premium brands in the Central Lakes District

For all your sales, service, parts & accessories requirements

Queenstown Motor Group

2 Hawthorne Drive, Remarkables Park, Queenstown 03 450 9034 â&#x20AC;˘ Duncan Wright 021 909 911 â&#x20AC;˘ Ted Brennan 022 089 0033 www.queenstownmotorgroup.co.nz

FOREWORD Books

H a v i n g t h e c h a n ce to d o c u m e n t N ew Ze a l a n d â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s s u r f co m m u n i t i es wa s a d re a m a ss i g n m e n t fo r D e re k M o r r i so n .

B EST Co a st s (Photos: Derek Morrison)

24 Explore South

he Dunedin photographer and author’s new book Surf Dreams dives deep into 15 surfing locales, including the South Island’s Kaikoura, Westport, Greymouth, Sumner, Dunedin, and Riverton. “We’ve got some really vibrant surf towns in New Zealand,” he says. “They’re just beautiful spots that have become iconic, some of them because of the surf.” Having photographed the coastline and surfers for over 25 years, Morrison had a vast archive of material to draw on for the book. But choosing the right images to tell the story, and feeling an obligation to frame the communities in a social context, presented challenges. Many surfers had moved to coastal communities for lifestyle reasons, choosing to earn less so they could do what they loved. Now their children have often been priced out of those towns. “That’s quite sad,” Morrison says. “It was one

of the biggest themes to come out - people have basically been pushed out of their own towns.” Many older surfers have previously not had their stories recorded. While Surf Dreams covers some New Zealand surfing history, his next book on surf shacks in New Zealand will go further. As a surf photographer, Morrison goes to extreme lengths to get the right shot. In recent times he’s embraced the potential of drones to capture the coastline and those who are drawn to it. The cover of Surf Dreams depicts a secret surfing location where he must remain in contact with the control tower of the nearby airport while the drone is airborne. “I go to a lot of effort for a lot of my work,” Morrison says. “You could definitely take shortcuts, but I’ve always kept that philosophy of throw everything into it to get the best result out.” • Surf Dreams: New Zealand Surf Culture by Derek Morrison is published by Penguin.

S u r f i n g i n t h e s o ut h “The South Island is quite unique, even in the context of New Zealand,” Derek Morrison says. “In Kaikoura you’re surfing a beautiful wave, you’ve got mountains covered in snow running down to the bush, running down to the sea. It’s something that you just don’t get that anywhere else in the world. It’s pretty special.” “Otago has probably one of the world’s greatest coastlines for surfing. People don’t want to promote it because they don’t want people to know that internationally. But we get a lot of brands coming down here to do their

campaign shoots. They’ll go under the radar, and do their campaign shoots because they’re just about guaranteed waves every day, lots of different types of waves, and there’s amazing light.” “Fiordland has some really big waves. Massive mountains, bush, and then the ocean. You’ve got to use planes or helicopters, or lots of surfers go and walk for days with their gear. It’s one of our real last frontiers, and it’s the equivalent of a hunter’s experience for a surfer. There’ll only be them out there, probably a lot of sharks, and these unbelievable waves. They’ll come back with stories for their close mates.”

Explore South 25

FOREWORD Food

48 HOURS IN. . .

Arrowtown

Spending a relaxing weekend in Arrowtown? You’re going to need some inside knowledge to get the most out of your days. Here’s where to go and what to do.

B U RG E R m e T h e r i se o f t h e b u rg e r co n t i n u es , w i t h eve r y re g i o n h a v i n g t h e i r ow n fa vo u r i te p u r veyo rs o f t h e u l t i m a te se l f- co n ta i n e d m e a l . H e re a re f i ve fa vo u r i tes fo u n d i n t h e so u t h . Burger Burger As well as numerous North Island locations, Burger Burger also has an excellent Christchurch outlet. And the burgers taste even better this side of Cook Strait (unscientific fact!). Devil Burger There’s no question Queenstown is well endowed burgerwise, and Devil Burger is one of the best. ‘Locally sourced, and crafted with lust’, they cater for all tastes - including kids. ReBurger Dunedin’s burger upstart has also spread its wings north to Timaru. ReBurger’s make serious burgers that are seriously good - and the loaded fries are just as good. Bacon Brothers ‘It’s about happiness’ is the motto of Christchurch’s Bacon Brothers, summarising the perfect burger experience. Alongside amazing burger creations, they offer sublime sides and craft beer. Good Good According to travel website Big 7, Dunedin’s Good Good had the third best burger offering in the country. Found in the city’s heritage precinct, the burgers are pretty damn good good.

26 Explore South

Friday 3pm Wander down historic Buckingham Street and soak up the ambience. 7pm Enjoy dinner and a nightcap at the Bendix Stables gastropub. Saturday 11am Coffee and brunch at the Hole In One Café. 2pm See how Chinese gold miners lived in the 1870s at the restored settlement. 5pm Pre-dinner drinks at the well hidden Blue Door Bar. 7pm Dinner at the adjacent Fan-Tan Kitchen and Bar. Sunday 9am Fuel up at the Arrowtown Bakery and Café. 11am Stroll the 30-minute each way Tobin’s Track, offering amazing views. 2pm Grab some supplies for home from Gibbston Valley Cheese and Patagonia Chocolates.

“The level of service was incredible. The guides made this trip so special, they really catered to everyone’s needs with care and attention to detail. This was one of the best trips I’ve done.” - Alyson, New Zealand

LET’S HEAD OUT ON YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE Hike, bike, kayak & indulge in the most stunning places in New Zealand with our all-inclusive adventures from two to six days. Nelson Lakes | Alps to Ocean | Otago Rail Trail | Aspiring National Park | Abel Tasman

WHY US? 25 years wearing out our boots Small groups & Kiwi guides Private departures available All ages & abilities $100 deposit & flexible switches GET IN TOUCH 0800 234 726 www.activeadventures.com

EXPLORE

Queenstown

QU E E N STOW N ’ S S u m m e r a d v e nt u re s T h e re ’s n ow h e re i n t h e wo r l d l i ke Q u e e n stow n i n s u m m e r, w h e t h e r i t ’s p a r t o f a S o u t h I s l a n d to u r o r a d e d i ca te d t r i p to sa t i s f y yo u r n e e d fo r a n ‘ove rse a s ’ t r i p. (Photo: Chris McLennan)

arm days, long evenings, and dazzling starry nights make the Queenstown region irresistible in the summertime. So do an incredible range of inspiring activities, immersing yourself in the great outdoors on foot, bike, or with some of the country’s best tour operators. Daytime temperatures reach between 20-30C and Queenstown’s 45° south latitude means that dawn is as early as 5am, while dusk settles around 10pm. The longer days and evenings are perfect for enjoying what the region is world-famous for.

and mountain views are just the first course in a feast of alfresco adventure that includes the outrageously fun luge, world-class mountain bike trails, zip-lines, and tandem paragliding flights through beautiful blue skies. There are also a myriad of fixed wing and helicopter operators that can take you high above Lake Wakatipu, giving you a bird’s eye view of Queenstown and surrounds. Make a chopper your mode of transport to a day’s mountain biking, visiting wineries, Milford Sound, or to hike beneath seemingly impossible glacier falls.

See blue skies from on high Queenstown’s must-do Skyline Gondola sweeps up to iconic Bob’s Peak, 500 metres above town. Staggering lake

Get the adrenaline buzz Take the plunge out of your comfort zone — Queenstown is the ‘Home of Adventure’ after all. With three different

28 Explore South

bungy jumps, including New Zealand’s highest, a brand new world first catapult located at the Nevis Playground, plus canyon swings, flying foxes, and two of the world’s most scenic skydiving drop zones, Queenstown will sate the cravings of first-timer and adrenaline junkie alike. Take a day hike Visitors can explore mountain high and valley low on walking trails throughout world-famous Middle-earth landscapes. Queenstown is a popular base for the region’s Great Walks and other multiday wilderness adventures. Or lace up your hiking boots and explore the countless short options, ranging from lakeside strolls to strenuous climbs.

S U P P L I E D CO N T E N T

(Photos: Destination Queenstown)

Take to the water Lake Wakatipu and three spectacular rivers – the Shotover, Kawarau, and Dart – are the setting of some of the world’s most exciting jet boat rides. Buckle up and hang on for hair-raising spins through narrow canyons, or soak up Southern Alps scenery on a slowerpaced safari. If you have limited time, there are many trips between 1 – 2 hours long, so you can get a quick blast of adrenaline before lunch. There are half day trips located along the Dart River and in Skippers Canyon for those wanting a more immersive wilderness experience. Go four wheel driving Queenstown 4WD and off road tours take you deep into the backcountry. You’ll experience some of the most remote and stunning scenery in New Zealand from the comfort of a specialised vehicle. Guided 4WD tours take you to Glenorchy on the winding road that follows the lake’s edge, or follow in the footsteps of gold miners and head to Macetown.

(Photo: Esther Small)

Go whitewater rafting Get up close and personal with two of New Zealand’s most famous rivers, both of which boast lofty rocky canyons and beautiful mountain scenery. Conquer the Shotover’s grade 3–5 drops and shoots in historic Skippers Canyon, or cruise the more playful, grade 2–3 Kawarau finishing with the Dog Leg, one of the longest rapids in the country. Discover legendary nightlife Sleep in then stay up late to maximise Queenstown’s lively vibe that lasts well into the wee hours. Linger over a sundowner while watching the light fade over the lake. Savour local food and wine in sophisticated restaurants, and explore different cuisines in Queenstown’s cosmopolitan and diverse restaurants. Head out for live music and dancing in one of many friendly pubs and bars, then round things off with a nightcap. Just cruisin’ Mild mornings can make way for hot days, so it’s a good idea to join the bustle on Lake Wakatipu and get out on the water! As well as jet boating

thrills, options include sailing above the water while parasailing, kayaking, or taking a leisurely lake cruise on a vintage steamship, state-of-the-art catamaran or luxury yacht. Take in Queenstown’s Arts Trail Along the edge of Queenstown Bay you will find etched into the stone wall a poem chronicling the history of the Otago region by David Eggleton, and sandblasted by sculptor Stuart Griffiths. Explore waterfront lanes to find arty gifts and photographic prints, and within Queenstown’s central grid there are galleries housing some of the country’s best-known artists. Wine and dine amongst the vines Savour world-class Pinot Noir, craft beer and luscious aromatic wines amongst the rugged landscapes of Gibbston. Selfdrive, join a guided tour, or cycle around the vineyards to get a taste of the terroir and indulge in delicious food al fresco. Plan your summer adventures in Queenstown at queenstown.co.nz

(Photo: Destination Queenstown)

Explore South 29

EXPLORE

Marlborough Welcome to BRILLIANT MARLBOROUGH Imagine a getaway where food, wine, scenery, and a touch of adventure all meld into one brilliant experience.

here you can find the quintessential Kiwi family holiday as easily as a blissful retreat for two. Where, within minutes after arriving into the region, you’re tasting incredible wines at a celebrated cellar door, and by evening, you’re ensconced in a remote waterfront resort, enjoying a gourmet dinner of local produce surrounded by nothing but natural beauty and tranquility. Welcome to Marlborough, where all the best ingredients for a brilliant holiday are in one amazing, easy to get to place. Discover world renowned vineyards, followed by a Marlborough Sounds cruise to a night at a secluded lodge, perfect for any style of getaway from family-friendly to absolute luxury. Wake up to birdsong and the prospect of paddle boarding or sea kayaking on the calm blue sea.

30 Explore South

(Photo: Marlborough NZ - Mike Heydon)

Walk a section of the Queen Charlotte Track and marvel at the brilliant views, or experience the rush of mountain biking New Zealand’s longest dualpurpose track. Fish for your dinner in the deep waters of the outer Marlborough Sounds, or cruise the calm bays - try swimming with dolphins, or sailing on a yacht. Perhaps board Marlborough’s original farm to plate experience, the Greenshell Mussel Cruise, a sumptuous feast of food, wine, and scenery. Or, just stay for the wine. Discover the many varieties that flow year-round at the cellar doors which together create a brilliant wine experience like no other – although we’re New Zealand’s largest wine region, this is still a place where winemakers will pop in for a chat with visitors, behind-the-scenes knowledge is readily shared, and our stories are authentic and always fascinating.

Take the family on a trip off the beaten track to Marlborough’s brilliant hidden gems and unique experiences, ranging from the growing treasure trove of history at the Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre, to a journey through our rich and diverse Māori and European heritage at pivotal locations like Ship Cove/ Meretoto. Experience unspoilt natural beauty, such as a visit to a deserted island bird sanctuary. We’d love to show you Marlborough’s many sides, from family adventures, romantic escapes, getaways with friends and families, for any travel style or holiday focus: relaxation, adventure, culture, heritage, and the most incredible food and wine - or a brilliant blend of it all, in one amazing place. Visit MarlboroughNZ.com for more.

S U P P L I E D CO N T E N T

EXPLORE

The city of Nelson sits at the edge of the haven, protected from the sea by a natural boulder bank. Imagine it with the sun shining - it usually is!

Nelson Activities for ALL LEVELS OF ADVENTURE

(Photo: Oliver Weber/Nelson Tasman)

(Photo: Kaiteriteri Kayaks)

(Photo: Luke Marchell/Nelson Tasman)

32 Explore South

he Tasman Bay sweeps on and curves around the coastline creating an arc which ends at its furthest point, Farewell Spit - more sand than land, but a haven too. Between Nelson and the spit, there’s plenty to woo visitors like you. Visitors arrive in exploration mode, those who favour pedal-power will, like the locals, home in on the walking and cycle trails that crisscross through the hills, coastline, and alpine lakes of the region. But whatever way you explore it there are always new rewards just around the corner. You’ll need to factor in elevenses and sustenance stops, but fortunately you’ll be in the right place for that. With high sunshine hours and fertile soils, Nelson Tasman is a giant’s food platter, where every locally grown ingredient could qualify for hero-of-the-dish status. A winning climatic formula has resulted in a region with a flourishing food and beverage scene driven by a collection of growers, makers, and entrepreneurs whose passion for their products is shared by discerning taste testers. Many of these food producers have settled in the region from cultures further afield, bringing with them authentic recipes they proudly recreate then stand back and watch their customers fall in love. The result is a happy marriage of loyal devotees. You’ll find

cafes, restaurants, and wineries all across Nelson Tasman proudly offering dishes made using produce and products that any selfrespecting locavore would love. A trip here is definitely a chance to taste something new, or meet the makers of a favourite food or beverage you’ve long coveted. Artists flocked to the region years ago. Wooed by the strong light, they’ve settled in and spread out. You’ll find art studios and galleries dotted across Nelson Tasman, as well as works from local potters, sculptors, jewellers, and painters in main centre art galleries, pop-up collectives, and bohemian gift shops. Their combined presence imbues a strong creative influence that contributes to the region’s je ne sais quoi and reputation as an art lover’s mecca. Probably best to clear a space on the mantle before you leave home. With three national parks, including the stunning Abel Tasman, you can traverse the land and sail the sea. Kayak, kiteboard, paddle, and swim, or walk and cycle your way around the region. By car is just fine too. Stay in luxury lodges, mountain top retreats, yurts, yachts, or backpackers. With activities for all levels of adventure and accommodation for every budget it’s not ever a question of why visit Nelson Tasman, but when?

S U P P L I E D CO N T E N T

FEATURE Films

OFF THE EDGE f i lm e d i n t h e s o u t h

T h e m o n u m e n ta l l a n d sca p es o f t h e S o u t h I s l a n d h a ve b e e n l e a d i n g c h a ra cte rs i n m a ny f i l m s , f ro m l o ca l p ro d u ct i o n s to H o l l y wo o d b l o c k b u ste rs . By Gavin Bertram

Explore South 33

FEATURE Films

Illustrious Energy, Mirage Films, 1988.

A In My Father's Den, The Film/Little Bird, 2004.

Goodbye Pork Pie, AMA Productions, 1981.

Heavenly Creatures, Wingnut Films, 1994.

34 Explore South

s a postcard to the world, Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies couldn’t have been a more effective South Island promotion. The huge mountainous vistas, raging rivers, and foreboding forests depicted the broad variety of landscapes to many who’d never before witnessed them. Film tourism became its own industry, with 18% of visitors saying that The Hobbit sparked their interest in coming to these shores. But the South Island has long been favoured by filmmakers due to exactly the variety of amazing locations within a relatively short distance. It’s been said before that the place is like one giant film set. “Point a camera in any direction here and you’ve got a shot,” Great Southern TV producer Phil Smith says. From the early days of film in New Zealand the South Island’s potential was recognised, with the James R. Sullivan’s Venus of the South Seas being filmed there in 1924. Later, government promotional travelogues 1925’s Glorious New Zealand and 1934’s Romantic New Zealand featured the beautiful, unpopulated

wilderness of Central Otago and the West Coast. Road movies and wild scenery became synonymous with the South Island in locally made films including 1981’s groundbreaking Goodbye Pork Pie. Co-productions with overseas companies during the 1980s saw bigger budget action films being shot among the mountains and lakes of Central Otago, including Race for the Yankee Zephyr and Shaker Run. Hollywood really came knocking in the new millennium, with Jackson’s immense Tolkien works, along with Vertical Limit, The Chronicles of Narnia, X Men, and Mission Impossible all shooting here. With so many big films already having been made in the South Island, it’s little surprise that more productions are in the pipeline. There are highly experienced film crew members working from here, and a good support infrastructure. But while the New Zealand film industry has already reignited in the midst of Covid-19, international tourism may take years to recover. So in the absence of hordes of film tourists, it’s the perfect time to enjoy some famous South Island film locations for yourself.

(Photo: Guy Cotter/Adventure Consultants)

30 MOVIES FILMED IN THE SOUTH ISLAND

Venus of the Southern Seas (1924) James Sullivan’s silent feature was shot in Nelson, a South Seas epic that has been called a great example of “the way New Zealand took to the fledgling film industry”. Glorious New Zealand (1925) A documentary feature made for the New Zealand Government Publicity Office as a promotional device, with footage of Queenstown and Lake Wānaka. Down on the Farm (1935) Filmed in Otago, little of Stewart Pitt’s melodrama has survived. The Kinematograph Weekly noted “the film is poor entertainment and worse propaganda”.

Snows of Aorangi (1955) The first New Zealand film to be Oscar nominated was a tourism promotion, shot in the Southern Alps by Brian Brake, with a James K Baxter written narration. Runaway (1964) Westland and North Island locations featured in John O’Shea’s road movie about a fallen from grace accountant and those he encounters. This is New Zealand (1970) The National Film Unit’s panoramic promo directed by Hugh MacDonald included stunning aerial footage of the Southern Alps, viewed by millions at Expo ‘70 in Japan. Off the Edge (1977) Filmed in Mount Cook National Park, Mike Firth’s adventure doco showed off

the thrilling exploits of skiers Jeff Campbell and Blair Trenholm, including hanggliding. Goodbye Pork Pie (1981) Geoff Murphy’s irreverent New Zealand cultural icon has the protagonists traverse the length of the country in a stolen yellow mini. A local game-changer. Race for the Yankee Zephyr (1981) A big-budget action flick shot around Queenstown, this stunt-laden coproduction had big name actors like Donald Pleasance and George Peppard. Battletruck (1982) Set in a dystopian future, this local production in the wake of Mad Max’s success across the ditch was dubbed “a thinking man’s action movie”.

Explore South 35

FEATURE Films

Carry Me Back (1982) More road high-jinks in this tale of brothers trying to get their dad’s body from Wellington back to his Marlborough farm so he can be buried there. Bad Blood (1982) A tense, powerful retelling of alienated West Coast farmer Stan Graham, and his 1941 killing of seven people, including policemen. Shaker Run (1985) This adrenaline packed action film directed by Bruce Morrison, told the unlikely story of a scientist on the run from the New Zealand Security Service in the South Island. The Leading Edge (1987) Another Mike Firth adventure extravaganza, this is a strange entity spanning drama and documentary, with some awesome Southern Alps' sequences. The Navigator: A Medieval Odyssey (1988) Vincent Ward’s hallucinogenic fantasy classic included sequences around the Southern Alps' Lake Harris, only accessible by helicopter. Willow (1988) An American production directed by Ron Howard, this included scenes from Queenstown, Cardrona Ski Field, and kayaking at Milford Sound. Illustrious Energy (1988) Central Otago plays a lead role in Leon Narby’s evocative story set among Chinese prospectors during the Otago Gold Rush of the 1860s.

36 Explore South

Never Say Die (1988) Another Geoff Murphy roadie featuring Temuera Morrison as an investigative journalist fleeing a trumped-up murder charge. Yet again, the West Coast is a co-star. Heavenly Creatures (1994) Peter Jackson’s compelling triumph related the grim 1953 Parker-Hulme matricide in Christchurch. The screenplay was nominated for an Oscar. Scarfies (1999) Dunedin student culture and a fraught criminal enterprise were the backdrop for Robert Sarkies' dark comedy, where one Taika Waititi was first spotted. Vertical Limit (2000) Filmed in the Southern Alps, this massive budget US production starred Chris O’Donnell and Bill Paxton. The climbing action is extreme. Lord of the Rings (2001) One film to rule them all. The first of Peter Jackson’s Tolkien epics changed the face of the New Zealand film - and tourism - industries. Sylvia (2003) Coastal Otago was the scene for this biopic about the brilliant, tragic poet Sylvia Plath and husband Ted Hughes, played by Gwyneth Paltrow and Daniel Craig. In My Father’s Den (2004) Maurice Gee’s haunting novel was vividly brought to life in frozen Central Otago by Brad McGann - a stunning epitaph for the director who died in 2007.

The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe (2005) The South Island is not only Middle Earth, it’s also Narnia, with locations in Canterbury, North Otago, and the Catlins featured in the first Chronicles of Narnia. X Men Origins: Wolverine (2009) Hugh Jackman has made the Marvel legend his own, including in this prequel, partially filmed in Dunedin and Central Otago. Two Little Boys (2012) Robert Sarkies directed the black Southland comedy of his brother Duncan’s novel, with Brett McKenzie and Hamish Blake starring. The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey (2012) Jackson’s second Tolkien trilogy again included locations across the South Island, including Fiordland, Marlborough, Otago, and the Mackenzie Basin. The Light Between Oceans (2016) Starring Michael Fassbender, Rachel Weisz, and Alicia Vikander, this drama was filmed around Dunedin, and the isolated lighthouse at Cape Campbell in Marlborough. Mission Impossible: Fallout (2018) The sixth installment from this huge franchise starring Tom Cruise included scenes shot around Queenstown and Milford Sound in mid-2017.

EXPLORE Golf

A guide to Queenstown’s CHAMPIONSHIP GOLF COURSES

The Queenstown region is an adjectival delight for golfers looking for the best the sport has to offer in quality, quantity and variety. Here’s your guide to Queenstown’s three internationally-renowned marquee courses.

ome of New Zealand’s most stunning fairways, Queenstown boasts seven spectacular golf courses, including three international championship courses and four experience courses. Host destination to the New Zealand Open, Queenstown offers an unparalleled golf holiday destination for players of all abilities. Queenstown’s championship courses Jack’s Point, The Hills, and Millbrook Resort feature exceptional course design incorporating majestic natural landscapes and spectacular scenery to create a stunning golf experience. Golf tours and packages can be tailored to the needs of small or larger groups.

38 Explore South

Jack’s Point (Photo: Miles Holden, Destination Queenstown)

Jack’s Point Golf Course (Ranks second in New Zealand) Designed by John Darby, this 18 hole championship course has recently been ranked second in the list of the top 40 courses in the country by New Zealand Golf Magazine. The course’s name is a subtle nod to Queenstown’s gold mining history and is named after Jack Tewa, the first man to find gold in the district. Jack’s Point is gaining international recognition for its challenging layout and the spectacular environment which affords 360 degree views of the Remarkables mountains and Lake Wakatipu. The course steadily inclines through wetland, tussock, rocky outcrops, and native bush before

descending in the face of the Remarkables back down to the clubhouse. The view from the seventh hole is particularly stunning, a 145 yard par 3 which will stop you in its tracks with the steep drop down to the lake, and the par 5 holes, 8 and 14, wind uphill with a blind shot to the greens making for an interesting play. As Peter Dawson, a Chief Executive of the R & A, said: “Jack’s Point was simply unforgettable”. Every necessary facility is available, from equipment hire, Pro Shop, practice range, and putting green, to the Jack’s Point Clubhouse, a beautiful restaurant set alongside Lake Tewa.

S U P P L I E D CO N T E N T

The Hills (Ranks third in New Zealand) One of the most unique courses in the world, The Hills is a genuine sculpture park as well as a world class golf course that has co-hosted the NZ Open since 2007. The sculptures are a reflection of the vision and inspiration of jeweller Sir Michael Hill himself. The Hills is golfing luxury with a superb layout designed by John Darby. Every hole has its own character and challenges. The fourth is a beautiful par 3 dropping down to a long green with bunkers left and water right. The sixth features a lake which is home to several magnificent Dragonfly sculptures by Mark Hill, and the signature 17th hole is a spectacular par 5 which rises through a canyon before you enjoy sensational views, and an adrenaline rush 18th. Another attraction is the recently opened 9 hole farm par 3 course designed by Australian Darius Oliver, which has been ranked in the ‘Top 25 Par 3 courses’ in the world. The landforms are spectacular and the first and eighth double green is the largest in the southern hemisphere. Enjoy the outstanding practice areas, plus the award-winning clubhouse, restaurant, and bar.

Millbrook Resort (Photo: Destination Queenstown)

Millbrook Resort (Ranks ninth in New Zealand) Millbrook is one of the world’s premier resorts, with the finest services on offer to ensure a memorable experience for golfers and holiday-makers alike. Millbrook offers state-of-the-art facilities and a Pro Shop with the highest quality golf gear and clothing. Millbrook has been voted ‘Best Golf Hotel’ at the World Golf Awards, and named ‘Oceania’s Best Golf Hotel’. The original designer of Millbrook Resort was Sir Bob Charles. Greg Turner later made some changes and designed the Coronet

Nine, and he has designed another nine set to open in 2021. The three nines are all enjoyable although each has its differences. The par 5 sixth hole on the Coronet nine is a stand-out offering different options to go for the green over a variety of hazards. Co-host of the New Zealand Open, Millbrook is surrounded by the stunning mountain scenery, and you are continually reminded to smell the roses even after a bad shot. The 27 holes are challenging yet very playable for all keen golfers. Millbrook also has a number of awardwinning restaurants, and spa facilities, which make for a perfect post game pit stop.

At Sofitel you’ll step into a luxury alpine world of sophistication. Blending the French Art de Vivre with the rich story of our locale your Sofitel stay will be a magnifique experience.

Live the French way 8 Duke Street, Queenstown Book your stay at sofitel-queenstown.com or call us on 03 450 0045

Sailing and Wildlife Cruise Dolphins – Seals – Penguins – Albatross

Sail in the crater of an extinct volcano and the Pacific Ocean on NZ’s oldest wooden ketch. • Dolphins GUARANTEED! • History and wildlife narration • Snacks, drinks and FREE coffee/tea/HC • 10:30am & 1:30pm every day, 3 hrs www.akaroafoxsail.co.nz Call 0800 369 7245 E-Mail info@akaroafoxsail.co.nz

FEATURE Whisky

Cardrona Distillery’s first single malt, Just Hatched, is receiving favourable reviews. (Photo: Cardrona Distillery)

Spirits of THE SOUTH T h e S o u t h I s l a n d ’s s p i r i ts i n d u st r y h a s a co l o u r f u l p a st a n d a b r i g h t f u t u re.

istening to Cardrona Distillery founder Desiree Whitaker explain what goes into producing a bottle of whisky is like opening a doorway to another world. The distillery, on the road between Wanaka and Queenstown, is one of the leading lights in a Renaissance of the spirits industry in the South Island. Its first single malt, Just Hatched, was named New Zealand’s best 12-years-andunder at the 2020 World Whiskies Awards in the UK in February, despite only being three years old.

Whisky Magazine also named it as one of the top 50 they’d ever reviewed. Whitaker says that’s a testament to the master distiller Sarah Elsom and the mentors who guided the creation of Cardrona, from the Forsyths in Scotland, the world’s best still makers, to American pioneer Dave Pickerell. “One of the qualities of a great whisky is that you can identify it comes from a specific distillery,” Whitaker says. “You can have two distilleries standing sideby-side, same barley, same yeast, producing whiskies with completely different characters.

Explore South 41

FEATURE Whisky

The Cardrona Distillery is set in a stunning location. (Photo: Cardrona Distillery.)

“That’s because a whisky’s character is built in layers and every decision, every quirk, has an impact.” Those decisions include the strain of the barley and level of peat, the grind of the mill, the mill itself, the style of the mash, size of the mash tub, the material the washbacks are made from, the presence of ‘wild yeast’, the length of fermentation, the temperature at many different points along the way, and the size of the still. “Small stills, like ours, give high copper contact, which removes the natural sulphur that’s come through from the barley itself. That smells like burnt popcorn. So that drops out and it sweetens the spirit.” Then there is the barrel-aging process and the choice of wood to mellow the fiery young spirit. Cardrona uses a combination of three - sherry casks from Oroso in Spain, ex-bourbon from the States, and French oak red wine casks from Central Otago Felton Road. Renowned whisky expert Charles MacLean described the character of Cardona whisky as “borage flower honey”. “It has a very rich, creamy feel on the tongue, or a butteriness,” Whitaker says,

42 Explore South

“and that comes from the wild yeast - lactis bacillus, which is distinct to Cardrona. “Sarah encourages its presence in every

Southland moonshine pioneer Mary McRae.

fermentation by taking a bucket from the end and pitching it into the next.” Cardrona will be an important part of the industry’s future in New Zealand, but the history of spirit making in the south is a far

more roguish affair. It is a near 200-year history of drunken sailors and whalers, of illicit alcohol distilled in the bush, of run-ins with the law under prohibition, and of notorious paint-stripping firewater like ‘McShane’s Chained Lightning’ which legend has it led to the sinking of at least one ship. “He was rendering down cabbage tree leaves and roots and selling it literally by the bucket-full to visiting whaling ships,” says Gore District curator Jim Geddes. “It was sort of a toxic version of rum.” Scottish widow Mary McRae brought her seven grown children and a small domestic whisky still, in a box marked ‘household goods’, from the Highlands to the Hokonui District of Southland in 1872. They brought distilling experience, along with an aversion to paying excise tax. So until 1957 they were implicated in 28 of the 31 prosecutions over the production, sale, and distribution of illicit spirit in Southland particularly after prohibition in 1902. Even as an old lady, Mary was known to hide a whisky barrel under her voluminous skirt or in her bed when the police turned up.

The former Wilson's Willowbank Distillery in Dunedin.

The original Hokonui Moonshine label. The spirits industry is having a Renaissance in the South Island. (Photo: Cardrona Distillery.)

While it is believed the McRaes barrel-aged some of their spirit, making it a proper whisky, in truth most of the illicit alcohol produced those days was not aged, and therefore was a grain spirit, says Geddes. “Customs and police were circling all the time, so it was a case of get it done and get it sold. It was bulk spirit production. “What came out was clear and it was basically firewater. At best it was close to a commercial brand spirit, at worst it was a public health hazard.” The history is told at Hokonui Moonshine Museum, which will reopen next year following a $1.8 million renovation. It will feature new visitor areas and an artisanal new spirit still for its Old Hokonui spirit. “That will bring the production of Old Hokonui on site,” Geddes says. “It will be part of the story and we’ll be doing a grain spirit as we always have.” The still will produce about 300 litres per batch, with local ingredients and their own distinct flavour and character, at either 40% proof, or 23%. Artists are lined up to design the labels and other features of the museum displays.

Police with a still confiscated in a raid.

Leading New Zealand artist Dick Frizzell has designed one in the past. The popular 20-year-old Hokonui Moonshiners’ Festival will be rescheduled for a grand opening. “It’ll be a special one in 2021,” Geddes says. Other South Island distilleries include Canterbury’s Workshops Whiskey, Queenstown Lakes’ Broken Shed Vodka and Broken Heart Gin, Kiwi Spirit in Golden Bay, Reefton Distilling Co, The Spirits Workshop Distillery in Christchurch, and more. Kiwi Spirit notably produces tequila from blue agave. Owner Terry Knight has propagated a blue agave farm, the only one outside Mexico, from plants over the past two decades. While not distilling at present, the New Zealand Whisky Collection is also a big name in the industry. When Dunedin’s Willowbank Distillery closed in 1997, hundreds of barrels of cask strength whisky were sold or mothballed in an old airplane hangar. In 2010, New Zealand Whisky Collection bought the last 80,000 litres, in 443 barrels, and has been producing batches

from it ever since from its headquarters in Oamaru. Until recently it had a cellar door at Loan & Mercantile Building in Harbour Street, Oamaru, but it will reopen in the former Northern Hotel, on Wansbeck Street, in the new year. The Willowbank Distillery was opened in 1974 by the Baker family. During the 1980s it flourished under Canadian firm Seagrams - the world’s largest distiller. That represented the last high point of the southern industry. But Cardrona’s Whitaker literally bet the farm on its future, selling up and pouring the money into her passion. It took five years of planning, and the first cask was made five years ago on November 5, 2015. “It’s really exciting times for the industry,” she says. “Seeing new distilleries popping up and the character of those distilleries being established is just wonderful. The joy of whisky is the nuances. “We’ve built ourselves not to be the biggest in the world, but among the greatest, and we’re just enjoying that journey now.”

Curling Curling

Have you tried it yet?

World-class Facility • Open all year, the indoor rink at Naseby is available to everybody, of all abilities. • Come and enjoy a refreshing curl and then relax in our comfortable lounge. • Easy to learn and fun for all ages. Book our indoor curling centre for a function or corporate event! Curling is the perfect activity for team building and getting to know each other. After your game, head upstairs to the Fully Licensed Lounge Bar/Viewing Gallery. This is a great venue for after game drinks, parties, fully catered meals and small meetings.

Open 7 Days — Bookings advisable

Phone (03) 444-9878

Email info@curling.co.nz • www.curling.co.nz

091622o18485

Danseys Pass Hotel is a unique destination, located in one of the most picturesque parts of Central Otago. The hotel offers 15 double rooms, bar and lounge with a great roaring fire, large dining room and outside bar “The Thirsty Farmer”. Whether you are planning a family or romantic getaway, corporate event, wedding or private function, the range of accommodation and venue facilities are sure to delight. Experience Central Otago with us! 03 444 9048 GM.danseyspasshotel@gmail.com Facebook: Danseyspasshotel/

EXPLORE

Dunedin

SEE THE WORLD in Dunedin this summer If you’re looking to visit somewhere new this summer and have yet to explore the many wonders of Dunedin, add this charming southern city to your holiday bucket list. (Photos: Hayden Parsons/Enterprise Dunedin)

reathed in volcanic hills and the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean, Dunedin is where gothic architecture meets sweeping coastal landscapes, a wonderful mix of quirky urban charm and dramatic natural surrounds. Here you can visit New Zealand’s only castle, watch yellow-eyed penguins waddle along beaches, or take on the world’s steepest street. If you’ve missed out on a European holiday this year, Dunedin’s wealth of beautiful Edwardian and Victorian architecture are a pretty good replacement; Olveston Historic Home could easily be mistaken for a grand aristocratic English estate, and if you dream of an escape to Scotland, you can transport yourself to the highlands at Larnach Castle. Stroll the downtown streets and you can admire other heritage highlights such as the ornate Dunedin Railway Station, which could be plucked straight from Bruges with its signature Flemish architecture. For an authentic glimpse of the orient, the Luan Yuan Chinese Garden offers a portal to old Shanghai from downtown Dunedin. Traditional and serene, the garden was built by

44 Explore South

Shanghai artisans as an inner-city haven for peaceful contemplation and features bridges, water features, and a tea house. Known as the “wildlife capital of New Zealand” you won’t have to go far to spot some of New Zealand’s captivating and rare native species, local celebrities in their own right. A visit to the world’s only mainland breeding colony of northern royal albatross is a must, as is a guided ‘safari’ to see yellow-eyed penguins, little blue penguins, fur seals, sea lions and other creatures of wing or water. Tours take you to the remote hidden reaches of the Otago Peninsula, for a wild encounter of a truly special kind. Or

experience it all from a different perspective with a cruise on the picturesque Otago Harbour; move over Sydney. Who needs to travel to the Amazon to be immersed in beautiful forests alive with colourful birdlife and towering trees; the Orokonui Ecosanctuary is Dunedin’s genuine ‘cloud forest’ and a wonderfully serene place to spend a few hours. Let’s not forget that dining out is a major part of any holiday. Think you’re missing out on a culinary journey to Melbourne? Never fear, you’ll find your ultimate foodie match within the many wonderful eateries, bars and breweries here, and the Otago Farmers Market is a destination in itself for artisan food connoisseurs. To get a dose of cosmopolitan culture, the city’s notable number of museums and galleries cover the full spectrum of interests. The award-winning Otago Museum is one of the nation’s finest, housing a stupendous collection of treasures from around the world, paired with an excellent calendar of year-round events and international touring exhibitions. The interactive exhibits and well curated artefacts at Toitū Early Settlers Museum tell the story of the region’s people and technology, with plenty to engage both young and old.

S U P P L I E D CO N T E N T

As the gateway to a beautiful and varied hinterland, Dunedin’s city limits offer day tripping to small fishing villages, vast mountaintop vistas, and quaint townships flanked by white-sand beaches. Take in some of the spectacular coastal drives, which rival the Great Ocean Road or Pacific Highway any day. Get off the beaten track a little and head up to the beautiful mountain flanked plateau that’s home to Middlemarch and the start of the Otago Central Rail Trail. The true unsung heroes are the many spectacular beaches that surround Dunedin. Take your pick of famed beach locations all over the world – Bali, California, Cornwall - and there will most certainly be one here to match it. The difference is that you’ll likely have the entire place to yourself; there are almost thirty to choose from after all. Think of the iconic natural attractions elsewhere that many of us aim to check off our bucket lists someday; we’ve got our own impressive versions right here: the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland v our Organ Pipes, Majorcan coves v Tunnel Beach, add to this the epic sweeping coastline and sea arches of Doctor’s Point or the historic Huriawa Peninsula and you’ve got the makings of a pretty exceptional holiday. For more ideas, go to www.dunedinnz.com/visit/see-and-do

FEATURE Cars

MOTORHEAD heaven CAR MUSEUMS IN THE SOUTH ISLAND M o to r i n g e n t h u s i a sts ca n f i n d t h e i r n i r va n a i n t h e S o u t h I s l a n d , w i t h ca r m u se u m s i n t h e re g i o n s p u n c h i n g a b ove t h e i r we i g h t .

Highlands Museum (Photo: Ross Mackay/ Tourism Central Otago)

46 Explore South

or an island with a population of slightly more than a million, there’s an unfair amount of shrines to the humble and not so humble automobile. From high-end motorsport wonders to vintage classics, maxed-out motorcycles to novelties and curiosities, there’s something to fascinate everyone. There are museums to be found across the South Island, although it’s fair to say some of the best are to be found in the deep south. At the top of the must-visit list is the Highlands Museum in Cromwell, 45 minutes from

Queenstown. Part of the Highlands Motorsport Park, the museum features an amazing array of modern and classic cars in mint condition, including some of the rarest from New Zealand’s motorsport history. You’ll see Michael Schumacher’s Benetton Formula One car, the only Aston Martin Vulcan in the Southern Hemisphere, an authentic American sheriff’s car, and so much more. And when you’re done looking, there’s the opportunity to experience the other thrilling attractions on offer at Highlands.

Explore South 47

FEATURE Museums

CAR MUSEUMS IN THE SOUTH ISLAND National Transport & Toy Museum (Wanaka) Cars, motorbikes, trucks, aircraft, and beyond - this truly is a collection to behold at length, if you have several hours. Geraldine Vintage Car and Machinery Club (Geraldine) With 125 tractors and a great range of veteran to classic cars, this is one of the best collections of its type in the Southern Hemisphere. Nelson Classic Car Museum (Nelson) Spanning more than a century of motoring, with 150 immaculate automobiles including Ferrari, Jaguar, Triumph, Cadillac, and a 1908 Renault AX.

48 Explore South

Bill Richardson Transport World (Invercargill) From one man’s passion, to being the largest private automotive museum collection of its type in the world, with more than 300 classic vehicles.

Mike Pero’s Motorcycle Gallery (Christchurch) A collection of around 60 motorcycles, from the 1970s-1990s, primarily of Japanese vintage. There’s now also a Boeing 737 flight simulator.

Stewart’s Classic Car Collection (Christchurch) John Stewart’s private collection features American classic cars, as well as New Zealand and Australian models, in a stunning private collection.

Toitū Otago Settlers Museum (Dunedin) The permanent ‘Otago Motors’ exhibition at Toitū features a variety of classics - including the Tiger Tea trolley bus, which can be boarded.

Warbirds and Wheels Museum (Wanaka) From veterans to 1960s classics, this is a world-class collection of 30 privately owned cars and motorcycles, all carefully restored.

Omaka Classic Cars (Blenheim) A living, working display of vehicles that each have their own story. All from the collection were originally available on the New Zealand market.

WORLD CLASS FACILITY WITH EXPERIENCES TO MATCH

BOOK NOW

FREE PH: 0508 4444 526 TEL: +64 (0)3 445 4052 HIGHLANDS.CO.NZ HIGHLANDS INTRODUCING

Trail Journeys and Highlands have collaborated to bring you Central Otago’s best E-bike experience. Trail Journeys new Cromwell base is located at Highlands which means that you’ll be able to pick up your e-bike and get advice on all the best trails to do in Central, all while enjoying the other offers in store at Highlands. As a special bonus, you’ll also be able to bike the World Class 4.2km circuit as part of your hire* There is also accommodation on site at Highlands meaning you can stay, play and cycle your days away all round central. We even offer transport options, so don’t hesitate to get in touch to see how we can make your E-bike adventure world class in Central.

trailjourneys.co.nz Highlands cnr Sandflat Road and SH6, Cromwell, NZ | 0800 724 587 | info@trailjourneys.co.nz

Cycle Central the Highlands way! Explore South 49

FEATURE Stars

N owa d a ys , n o t r i p to t h e S o u t h I s l a n d i s co m p l e te w i t h o u t ve n t u r i n g o u t a f te r d a r k .

DA RK S K I E S

Sta rga z i n g i n t h e S o u t h

(Photo: Dark Sky Project)

ver the past eight years, the South Island of New Zealand has become one of the best places on Earth to look up at the majesty of the heavens. Head outside after dark from February to October and you’ll be able to stare into the galactic core of the Milky Way, as it arcs overhead. It is brightest during June and July, before disappearing below the horizon for the summer. But, stargazing, aurora spotting, and astrophotography are a year-round activity in the South Island, now home to three International Dark-Sky Association (IDA) accredited areas - the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve, established in 2012, Rakiura/Stewart Island Dark Sky Sanctuary, and the Wai-iti Dark Sky Park. Ralph Bradley is chairman of The Top of the South Dark Sky

50 Explore South

Committee, behind the Wai-iti park, established in July, and the first in New Zealand. The 135 hectare park, which covers Wai-iti Recreation Reserve and Tunnicliff Forest about 30 kilometres south of Nelson City, now boasts natural dark skies. “It’s just marvellous, pristine,” Bradley says. “You can see the Milky Way clearly, and the small and large clouds of Magellan. It feels like you can reach up and touch the stars.” Like the Southern Cross and other astronomical delights, the Magellanic Clouds, two dwarf galaxies orbiting the Milky Way, are only visible in the Southern Celestial Hemisphere. That, usually, draws stargazers from around the world, who head for the acclaimed 4300 square-kilometre Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve, in the Mackenzie Basin around Tekapo.

(Photo: Rebecca Wilson Jennings)

a decent view of the stars, according to Butler. “We’re a bit unique in the world,” he says. “I’m based in Invercargill. So around Bluff, Oreti Beach, Forest Hill out toward Winton, are good areas for me to dash out to if something’s happening.” Aurora viewing is popular in the deep south. While not as powerful as its northern counterpart the Aurora Borealis, the Aurora Australis can put on an unforgettable spectacle. “The stronger ones are very visible with the naked eye,” Butler says. “They actually dominate the night sky. If you get an aurora storm, it’ll flood the whole sky with colour.” Auroras are the result of disturbances in the magnetosphere caused by solar wind. Butler expects more activity in the coming years as the Sun moves out of its current quiet phase. One of the best places to view Aurora Australis is Rakiura/ Stewart Island. Rakiura, which translates as “glowing skies”, became IDA a Dark Sky Sanctuary in 2019 due to its “exceptionally dark” skies and remoteness. Queenstown astrophotographer Jordan McInally, of Undersoul Photography, has been on many missions south over the past six years, including to Nugget Point in 2017 for the biggest aurora show in 12 years.

(Photos: Mark Gee)

Bradley says the IDA is encouraging his committee to think as big. “So we hope the dark sky park will be in the midst of a dark sky reserve in years to come.” There is also a push for New Zealand to become the first IDA-accredited dark sky nation, a place where natural darkness is protected from modern light pollution in the same way its landscapes and environment is protected. Steve Butler, vice president of the Royal Astronomical Society of New Zealand and the director of its Dark Sky group, has been “blown away” by the stars since he was a child. “It just puts a lot of things in perspective,” Butler says. “We’re very small on the scale of the universe, the universe is constantly changing and we’re just part of that change, our lifetime is a pretty fleeting event.” He says for 40 years astronomers have been “complaining about the amount of light spilled upwards”, but the dark skies movement now has a broader base. There are 22 communities across New Zealand involved, as well as tourism operators, photographers, and those concerned about the impact of artificial light on human health and ecology. In the South Island, anywhere outside an urban area can give you

Explore South 51

(Photo: Rebecca Wilson Jennings)

FEATURE Stars

“If the forecast is going off, it’s ‘hell yeah, let’s go find clear skies and get south’,” he says. For each single Milky Way shot, McInally sets a 25 second shutter speed, and takes about 20 shots to stitch together a panorama, or more than 400 for a 10 second timelapse. He says it is “pretty epic” seeing the skies with the naked eye too, although you can’t see the colours. “When you’ve got the camera in front of you though, and see the shot, it helps your brain fill in the gaps.” He picks the accessible Remarkables skifield, particularly the Shadow Basin lookout, as one of his favourite spots, along with Coronet Peak and Moke Lake, both also in Queenstown. “Mount Cook has probably got the best night skies, though,” McInally says. “Once you get out and away from Tekapo there’s something about the weather systems there that produce beautiful clear air.” Tekapo is home to the Dark Sky Project, a purposebuilt observatory and tourist attraction run by Ngai Tahu Tourism, one of a plethora of commercial astro tourism operations across the South Island. It is at the heart of the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve and also runs tours to the nearby University of Canterbury Mt John Observatory. Efforts by astronomers to protect the darkness were the foundation of the dark sky movement in New Zealand, and they have set the course for it to one day become a dark sky nation.

Top 5 stargazing spots in the South Island: 1. Aoraki Mackenzie - IDA Dark Sky Reserve. 2. Rakiura/Stewart Island - IDA Dark Sky Sanctuary. 3. Wai-Iti, Tasman - New Zealand’s first IDA Dark Sky Park. 4. The Southern coast; Catlins, Dunedin, Invercargill. 5. Moke Lake, Queenstown.

52 Explore South

EXPLORE

\HERITAGE RXU

R AI VAL L E Y COTTAGE

FYFFE HOUSE

Nelson

KaikĹ?ura

Christchurch

KATE SH EPPA RD HOUSE

LY TTE LTON TIMEB A L L STATI ON

TOTARA ESTATE

Oamaru

CL AR K S MIL L

Queenstown Dunedin Invercargill

7KH 6RXWK

is a region rich in diversity from coastal grasslands and beaches to high country landscapes. As you enjoy our scenery we invite you to visit our built heritage and hear the stories that tell us who we are and what we can become. Proudly cared for by Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga, call in and discover the stories of our Properties in the South.

Find out more at www.visitheritage.org.nz

MATA N A K A FAR M BU IL D IN GS

H AY E S EN G INE E RIN G WO R KS A N D H O ME S T E A D O PH IR PO ST O F F IC E

FEATURE Explorers T h e i m p os i n g g e o g ra p hy o f t h e S o u t h I s l a n d h a s l o n g p rese n te d a c h a l l e n g e fo r t h e a d ve n t u ro u s . By Gavin Bertram

Born to be Wild (Photos: Tourism West Coast and Destination Fiordland)

54 Explore South

TV series First Crossings has retraced this and n April 1989 Mick Abbott stood on the dunes at many other important New Zealand explorations. the base of Farewell Spit, staring at the Tasman Over the following decades much of the rest of Sea. the South Island was surveyed. Julius von Haast The thought of this moment had driven him explored in Canterbury and Westland, where forward as he walked 1600km up the spine of the he discovered many of the glaciers; Nathanael Southern Alps. Chalmers ventured deep into Central Otago; Abbott’s solo effort was the first full-length Charles ‘Explorer’ Douglas surveyed the rivers traverse of the South Island wilderness, a massive and mountains of the wild West Coast; Henry undertaking that took 130 days, and 32 crossings Whitcombe and Jakob Lauper attempted to find a of the main divide. route over the Southern Alps in 1865. “I wanted to know how I would respond to the Others, such as gold prospector Alphonse isolation,” he wrote in New Zealand Geographic. Barrington, ventured in search of fortune. His “With no one to spur me on, I wondered if I would party’s 1864 expedition into the unknown, west of have enough drive to complete more than 60 Lake Wakatipu, saw them almost perish - “three passes of mainly untracked travel.” skeletons just alive” when they reemerged. Others before and after have faced the same The Southern Alps provided new frontiers well travails. The range of landscapes in the South into the 20th Century. Aorangi Mt Cook was first Island means that it is constantly challenging, with ascended on Christmas Day 1894 by Jack Clarke, immense mountains, unpredictable rivers, and Tom Fyfe, and George Graham. Mt Aspiring was dense rainforest. conquered in 1909, again But early Māori, by Clarke, with Bernard colonial Europeans, Head and Alec Graham. and contemporary As late as 1934, a adventurers have pitted party led by 21-year-old themselves against this student John Holloway seemingly unconquerable filled in the last blank territory. portion of the map of In his book New Zealand New Zealand when they Explorers, Philip Temple traversed the Barrier and wrote that, “the reality Olivine Ranges in South of Māori explorations will Westland. never be known… yet, for The South Island has the first time, the land continued to present began to exist in human challenges to those consciousness as these looking for adventure. explorers gave names to Graeme Dingle and Jill its features...” Tremain’s 1972 book Two The South Island is Against the Alps charted Te Waipounamu - the their winter traverse place of greenstone. up the spine, from the Māori knowledge of the Brando Yelavich in 2014 (Photo: Vicki Williams) south of Fiordland to geography was crucial to Marlborough. Unlike Abbott, however, the pair later European exploration. travelled on some sections by jet boat, car, and Surveyors were among the first to venture into kayak. the interior. Charles Heaphy and Thomas Brunner Brando Yelavich’s 2013-2014 expedition showed were employed by the New Zealand Company to that something new was still possible. The then survey in the Nelson area. With Māori guide Kehu, teenager walked solo around the coastlines of in mid-1846 they traversed the West Coast, from both the North and South Islands, covering 8700 Golden Bay to near the Hokitika River. kilometres. But it was the Kahurangi leg on the Later that year Brunner, again relying on Kehu, upper West Coast that was Yelavich’s favourite began an epic expedition following the Buller part of the odyssey. River’s course, and on to the rest of the West “I walked through forests that no one had ever Coast. It was torturous, with near-starvation and been in before,” he said. torrential rain the party’s constant companions. “Continued rain without any abatement until • Experience the South Island wilderness for evening,” Brunner wrote in March 1847. “This is yourself: Ultimate Hikes offer guided walks on the without exception the very worst country I have Milford and Routeburn Tracks - see ad page 21; seen in New Zealand.” Active Adventures offer a range of adventures in It was a year later, having succumbed to the the South Island and beyond- see ad page 27 weather, injury, and lack of provisions, that Brunner turned back from South Westland. The excellent

Explore South 55

OUR BEST PRICE GUARANTEED

WHEN BOOKING DIRECT PLATINUMQUEENSTOWN.CO.NZ

L I LY

&ESTHER

C LY D E

STOCKISTS OF NZ DESIGNER FASHION & ACCESSORIES Staple + Cloth Kowtow Yu Mei Chaos & Harmony

027 381 8103

Age Eyewear Daily Eyewear Karen Walker Eyewear Lela Jacobs

anna@lilyandesther.co.nz | 23D Holloway St. Clyde 9330 www.lilyandesther.co.nz

There’s never been a better time to explore some of the West Coast’s most scenic spots. Like the world famous Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers. Discover a world of natural wonders right here in your own back yard. Learn more & book

westcoast.co.nz/deals

2320090

Juliette Hogan Company of Strangers Twenty-Seven Names Standard Issue

EXPLORE Promotion

Nostalgia REVISITED Experience the adventure and the romance of steam train travel. Step aboard and straight into a bygone era, all while exploring the South Island’s majestic backyard. ODT Journeys together with Pounamu Tourism Group have created something quite special to help us explore the beauty between Christchurch and Invercargill, all while taking an epic heritage steam train journey. There are tour options from seven- to 13- days, which take place in April 2021.

13-Day Tour departing Christchurch The journey through postcard-perfect vistas and dramatic scenery begins from Christchurch via Arthur’s Pass on the TranzAlpine. The transverse starts inland along the West Coast on luxury coaches to explore the wonders of Queenstown, Milford Sound, and Te Anau. At Invercargill, you will meet the star of the show; the historic World War 1 memorial steam locomotive Ab608 Passchendaele, named to honour New Zealand’s fallen solders at the battle of Passchendaele in 1917. Passchendaele is a “living, breathing, working monument” to railway heritage and is quite something to behold when it is thundering down the track under full steam, says Pounamu Tourism Group director Paul Jackson. Travelling in the comfort of its vintage carriers and a lounge car, the train explores the length of the South Island: Invercargill to Dunedin, Ōamaru, Christchurch, Kaikōura and Marlborough. The guided tour is escorted by a fleet of luxury coaches that provide seamless transfers from the train to the hotel each morning.

Highlights Franz Josef Hot Pools: Walter Peak Homestead visit: Arrowtown Lakes District Museum; Bill Richardson Transport World; OCHO chocolate factory tour; Moeraki Boulders; up close with Blue Penguins and Takahē; TSS Earnslaw visit followed by homestead dinner at Walter Peak; high tea and garden tour at Larnach Castle; seal colony guided walk in Kaikōura. Food and accommodation Accommodation of at least 4-star rated properties. Cooked breakfast and sumptuous dinners including meals at Walter Peak Homestead and Wither Hills in Blenheim; lunches at Tuatapere, Southland and at The Store, Kekerengu; and high tea at Larnach Castle. A fleet of luxury coaches will escort the train throughout the journey, providing seamless transfers to your accommodation and excursions.

Options 13-date tour departing Christchurch 24 April, 2021; 10-Day tour departing Christchurch (return) 24 April, 2021; 7-day tour departing Invercargill 30 April, 2021 Bookings journeys.odt.nz or 03 974 1812

EXPLORE Cycling

Happy TRAILS T h e S o u t h I s l a n d i s a n a bso l u te m e cca fo r cyc l i sts , w i t h t ra i l s to s u i t a l l a g es a n d a b i l i t i es . (Photo: James Jubb/Tourism Central Otago)

58 Explore South

(Photo: Ross MacKay/Tourism Central Otago)

(Photo: Destination Queenstown)

(Photos: Destination Queenstown)

Queenstown Trail An extensive network of peaceful cycle paths, the 130km Queenstown Trail is a fabulous way to explore Queenstown’s renowned landscapes while taking in many of its major sights. Themed trails - linking Queenstown, Arrowtown and the winesoaked Gibbston - offer almost endless options for exploration with guided rides and shuttles easy to arrange.

Clutha Gold Trail THE Clutha Gold Trail offers a unique heritage experience set within diverse and stunning landscapes. Open all year round, the 73km trail takes between two to four days to complete. It is an easygrade trail that is full of variety. Cyclists can begin their journey at any point. The four main centres along the way are Roxburgh, Millers Flat, Beaumont, and Lawrence.

Around the Mountains Cycle Trail Set in the remote wilderness of southern New Zealand, the Around the Mountains Cycle Trail offers a truly unique experience for those seeking to venture off the beaten track. The 186km journey can be ridden in either direction, starting at Kingston or Walter Peak, and takes 3-5 days at a relaxed pace on this easy to conquer trail.

Lake Dunstan Cycle Trail Some sections now open, and one scheduled to be completed this summer, the Lake Dunstan Cycle and Walking Trail spans 55km between Cromwell and Clyde. It’s an easy ride through the unique and fascinating landscapes of Central Otago, journeying along Lake Dunstan, the Kawarau River, and the mighty Clutha River Mata-au.

Alps 2 Ocean THE Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail (A2O) is the longest cycle trail in New Zealand. At a total length of 301km, the trail runs from the Southern Alps all the way to the ocean, finishing up in Oamaru. The trail is an easy to intermediate grade, and suitable for everyone from grandparents to grandchildren. To cycle the full trail takes an average of four-six days. (See ad page 61).

West Coast Wilderness Trail From Greymouth to Ross, on your trusty bike you’ll wind your way through ancient rainforests, along glacial rivers, around moody lakes and across some downright cracking wetlands. You can do it all at once - across four days - or just nab the odd day-trip. Either way, it’s a fairly spectacular way to journey from the Alps to the sea.

Otago Central Rail Trail New Zealand’s first off-road cycle trail, the Otago Central Rail Trail opened in 2000, its 152km length following the former route of the Otago Central railway. Along the way riders will discover historic goldmining villages, country pubs, and rugged scenery, and they can try some great off-trail adventures. The trail is open all year round, and is suitable for all ages.

Great Taste Trail Looping through the Tasman Bay towns of Nelson, Wakefield, Richmond, Motueka, and Kaiteriteri, the Great Taste Trail is a terrific way to tour the attractions of this popular holiday destination. The mix of rural, urban, coastal and riverside scenery is a feast for the eyes, and this trail also serves up a tantalising array of tasty attractions.

Roxburgh Gorge Trail THE 34km Roxburgh Gorge Trail provides a spectacular one-day ride between Alexandra and the Roxburgh dam, following the Clutha Mata-au River. The trail opens up areas of historic significance, with old schist huts built into the rock by Chinese miners, and the remains of two small mining settlements set in an imposing and inspiring landscape.

• For Moustache e-bikes and Chargeabout cycle hire, see ad page 15. Pacific Cycle Tours do great e-bike tours on the trails - see their ad page 37. Around the Basin do cycle hire and ride packages around Queenstown - see ad page 67. For Trail Journeys in Central Otago, see ad page 49.

Explore South 59

EXPLORE

Hurunui ESCAPE INTO THE Picturesque Hurunui

If the views, flavours, and experiences of the Hurunui have one thing in common, it’s this: you’ll want to savour each one.

iven all that is packed into this special part of the country, like the rolling Waipara Hills, great limestone rock formations, and award-winning wineries and thermal pools, you’ll need a little time to explore every inch of it. Grab yourself a rental car, and from Christchurch, head north to start your escape into the picturesque Hurunui. Some 40 minutes out of the city, you’ll reach the North Canterbury Wine Region. Terrace Edge, Greystone, Waipara Hills, and Black Estate are among the more than 90 vineyards in the North Canterbury Wine Region, which spans nearly 200km along the eastern coastline. The mostly family-owned vineyards are best known for their Pinot Noir and aromatics and offer dining and sipping experiences – with incredible vistas to boot. Along the Waipara River, Georges Road Wines provides panoramic views of Mt Grey and the Three Deans Range. Take lunch at the Cellar Door, or stay a while by booking into the luxury Winepod, perfect for a romantic getaway. This gorgeous tiny house is nestled among the vines and allows visitors to really soak up the beauty of this small estate.

60 Explore South

(Photos: Visit Hurunui)

Continue on your drive, passing through the Weka Pass and its limestone rock formations. Enjoy the scenic drive along the Waiau River, before reaching the alpine village of Hanmer Springs. Renowned for its thermal pools, Hanmer Springs village caters to all travellers – the relaxers, the adventurers, and those wanting pure luxury. The Village Lake Luxury Apartments are located in the heart of this alpine haven and are just a short walk to the Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa. Lose yourself and all sense of time in the thermal pools. The Cascades are the newest pools in the complex. These five interconnected pools are nestled under giant Redwood trees, so sit back and relax while listening to the tunes of native birds in the treetops. If you’re feeling adventurous, try out Conical Thrill, New Zealand’s biggest waterslide. It’s just as popular with the ‘big kids’ as it is the actual kids. To take it down a notch, book your own private pool. Onsite luxury day spa, The Spa, offers a range of therapeutic massages, which will have you relaxed and ready to tackle life after your Hurunui escape.

S U P P L I E D CO N T E N T

Heart of the desert Hotel in the

& CONFERENCE CENTRE

Surprising as it may sound, Central Otago’s Cromwell Basin is only a shower or two short of being a desert. Surely a big plus for a New Zealand holiday destination big on attractions and activities that’s pretty much free of the risk of being rained out. Heart of this almost desert is Cromwell and Harvest Hotel, part of The Gate Hospitality and Visitor Centre.

Attractions and activities galore (and this is just a taster)

BOOK NOW 0800 104 451

Three Star Plus Harvest Hotel offers 47 rooms, most have recently been renovated and all with French doors opening onto a balcony or paved patio affording stunning Central Otago views. Room service, climate control, free Wi-fi, free SKY, coffee and tea making. Harvest Hotel also has a stand-alone conference and wedding venue.

Five Stags has a traditional hunting lodge theme but given a 21st Century twist.

Light, spacious and with amazing views, Forage offers fab food, bedazzling beverages and a feast of local and more distant tourist information.

The restaurant is cleverly separated from the bar which itself has out of the ordinary with an authentic corrugated iron and exposed frame hunter’s hut rich in memorabilia.

This licensed cafe also includes extensive outoor areas shaded from the Central Otago sun.

• Wine tours and tastings in Central Otago’s largest wine region. • Cycling & walking/jogging trails • Cromwell Heritage Precinct where artisans and artists work. Easy walking distance via Greenways from Harvest Hotel • Highlands Motorsport Park & Central Motor Speedway • 18 hole Cromwell Golf Course right next door to Harvest Hotel • Lake Dunstan fishing and boating • Rides:- helicopter, jet boat, paragliding, motorcycles • Public swimming pool and tennis courts. Children’s playgrounds, mini golf • Orchard tours… NZ’s major cherry and summerfruit region • Goldfields Mining Centre and gold panning

CNR BARRY AVE & HIGHWAY 8B, CROMWELL | www.thegate.nz | stay@thegate.nz

EXPLORE

Waitaki BE AWE-STRUCK B Y T H E WA I TA K I DISTRICT

With some of New Zealand’s most stunning settings, a vibrant arts scene, and adventure around every corner, the Waitaki district is the dream-like holiday destination you didn’t know you needed.

ighty million years in the making, the region is home to New Zealand’s very first Geopark—The Waitaki Whitestone Geopark. Step into a world where the limestone buildings, ancient formations, and braided rivers divulge the wonder and romance of eras gone by. From centuries-old Māori rock art to the unusually spherical Moeraki boulders (formed on a seabed more than 55 million years ago!), the Geopark is not short of memorable experiences. And what better way to see it all, than jump on your bike and cycle along the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail. Starting at Mount Cook the epic 306km adventure will take you past grassy farmlands, along alpine-fed lakes, and through small town New Zealand where the locals are happy to swap stories and let you in on the provincial hidden gems. Imagineers will want to stop at Elephant Rocks, south of Duntroon, a large mass of weathered limestone shaped like the most charming of pachyderm. You’ll recognise it as Aslan’s camp from the very first Chronicles of Narnia film. The Waitaki district embraces the foodie with the vivid scents of hearty lamb, fresh baked breads, fresh salmon, and of course, the distinct flavours of locally produced Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Pinot Gris wines. Match these fruity wines with a wide range of award-winning Whitestone Cheese. Ōamaru, the largest town in the Waitaki

62 Explore South

region, is a seaside haven of culture and charm. Ōamaru boasts the most well-preserved Victorian streetscape in New Zealand, all carved from local limestone. The town readily embraces its Victorian heritage, so much so it is not uncommon to see folks sauntering down Harbour street in bowler hats and hoop skirts. You’ll feel as if you’ve walked into the pages of your own Jane Austen paradise. Just underneath the surface of this small town lies an unexpected subculture. Ōamaru is the steampunk capital of the world. Enthusiasts come from all over the globe to take part in the annual Steampunk NZ Festival. Year-round, Steampunk HQ showcases a re-imagined Victorian fantasyland with futuristic thinking, clever engineering, and intricate art on display. After your fill of all things sci-fi and industrial, enjoy a wander around the historic harbour to Ōamaru’s most loved natural attraction: The Ōamaru Blue Penguin Colony. You’ll be able to view the world’s smallest penguins as they come ashore, home from a hard day’s fishing. During peak season (August-February) the colony can have up to 200 little tuxedoed birds coming in on one night! If you’re dreaming of an under the radar escape, now is the perfect time to be awe-struck by the Waitaki district. (Photos: Tourism Waitaki)

S U P P L I E D CO N T E N T

Come and play at

THE HOME OF GOLF IN NEW ZEALAND

Green fee players welcome | 7 days a week Golf carts | hire clubs | fully stocked golf shop Celebrate 150 years with us 19-21 November 2021 Registrations to: 150@otagogolfclub.co.nz 03 467 2096 ext 1

SPEND A FEW HOURS OR A FEW DAYS ON THE ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL IN THE COMPANY OF INSPIRING SCENERY

alps2ocean.com

Alps2OceanCycleTrail

Alps2Ocean

EXPLORE

Fiordland Fiordland is truly

BEYOND BELIEF Now is the time to move Fiordland from your wish list, and onto your to-do list. One of the world’s most desired destinations is available for New Zealanders to enjoy - all to yourself.

(Photo: Paul Dainty)

ith summer approaching, the days are longer, and Fiordland is brimming with authentic outdoor pursuits. Traverse into the wilderness and explore Fiordland’s diverse and undiscovered pockets. Often referred to as the “Eighth Wonder of the World”, Fiordland’s headliner is Milford Sound. Located 120km from Te Anau, journey along the Milford Road - one of the most beautiful alpine drives in the world. This summer there is no need to rush ahead of the crowds, the road is yours to enjoy in your own time. Explore roadside trails along the way or strap on your hiking boots and head deeper into the native bush. Take to the greats with The Routeburn, Caples, and Greenstone tracks at your doorstep. An expert guide offers an in-depth discovery of our native flora, fauna, and birdlife and a historical insight to the area. For a unique experience, opt for an incredible helicopter excursion over mountains and rainforests to visit the region’s untouched corners. Discover

64 Explore South

fly-fishing in some of New Zealand’s bountiful waterways. With a skilled guide, fish at the edge of gin-clear rivers or move further into the wilderness by jet boat or helicopter for a backcountry experience. Once you have arrived in Milford Sound, take a day cruise through the exceptionally landscaped fiord and enjoy onboard commentary with a personal touch. Cast your gaze towards the sky to witness the sheer rock faces and cascading waterfalls. Sail to the entrance of the Tasman Sea for a chance to view native Fur Seal, Bottlenose Dolphin and Fiordland Crested Penguin. Elevate your experience with an overnight option; cruise the fiord at sunset and wake up to the sound of native Tui, Weka and perhaps the cheeky Kea. Move around the edge of the Sound on a breath-taking kayaking excursion or dive in Milford’s unique eco system of deep-water emergent black coral trees. Dubbed ‘the finest walk in the world’ take the opportunity to

experience the Milford Track - without the crowds. The “Basecamp of Fiordland”, Te Anau is positioned between Queenstown and Milford Sound, providing the perfect hub. The 3000 residents specialise in showcasing their National Park. Begin with a peaceful cruise across Lake Te Anau and visit the mysterious caves that house luminous glowworms. Take a stroll around the south edge of the lake to the Te Anau Bird Sanctuary, home to many native and endangered birdlife including the Takahe. To truly appreciate the size and scale of the glacial carved valleys, fiords, and mountain ranges, get into the sky. A scenic helicopter flight will have you at a remote mountain lake, enjoying a gourmet picnic lunch and glass of champagne. Take the opportunity to hike among the heavens on a guided heli-hike or charter the helicopter for a magnificent photography tour. Circle the sounds by fixed wing plane or land on the lake in the South Island’s only seaplane.

S U P P L I E D CO N T E N T

(Photo: Daniel Deans)

(Photo: Onesimus Photography)

Connecting Lakes Te Anau and Manapouri is the Waiua River. Spin downstream by jet boat or cycle along the riverbed. The river is resident to Rainbow and Brown Trout and the best fishing is done off the side of a jet boat. At the end of the river, Lake Manapouri provides a stunning location for boat tours, kayaking, and paddle boarding. At the West Arm of the lake is the Manapouri Power Station, the largest hydroelectric station in New Zealand. No visit to Fiordland is complete without visiting Doubtful Sound, ‘the Sound of Silence’. Cruise to the West Arm of Lake Manapouri and journey over the Wilmot Pass to this giant fiord. Smaller vessels offer overnight stays and an intimate encounter with nature. Anchor up at sunset and enjoy home cooked crayfish for dinner, a glass of local wine and stargazing on deck. Te Anau and Manapouri offer a range of accommodation, from luxury lodges and high-end apartments to hotels and motels. Camping and backpacker hostels are exceptional in Te Anau. Food is an integral part to Fiordland and local restaurants are dedicated to sourcing the finest local produce. Bordering Central Otago, eateries and bars pay homage to their neighbour’s wines and ales. Enjoy a glass at the local cinema and see Fiordland’s film, Ata Whenua. To many overseas guests, Fiordland is a once in a lifetime destination. Steeped in rich and dramatic scenery, the region offers a multitude of experiences and activities for all. This summer, it’s all yours and will not disappoint. It truly is beyond belief. Find a full list of Fiordland’s activity operators, accommodation providers and restaurants at www.fiordland.org.nz

stewart island – Your overseas summer HolidaY Just a one hour flight from and! Queenstown to Stewart Isl

her enjoy a scenic With Air Milford, you can eit ion of Aotearoa, or flight to the most remote reg trips experiencing kiwi enjoy full-day or overnight wded day walks. spotting, fishing, and uncro

NZ Family Owner Operated

2 to book Call 0800 462 25 w.airmilford.co.nz

info@airmilford.co.nz • ww

Also flying to Mt Cook, Milford & Doubtful Sounds from our base in Queenstown 2318926

EXPLORE

Christchurch Ōtautahi Christchurch THIS IS JUST THE BEGINNING

An exciting metropolis at the centre of Te Waipounamu, our beautiful South Island,Otautahi Christchurch is the current must-see destination. (Photo: Giora Dan)

ure, you might have visited the city a decade ago. Perhaps even a few years ago? But the place has undergone massive development in the last two years. Large-scale public developments have been completed, and investment in public spaces and amenities is clear across New Zealand’s second largest city. City Mall runs through the heart of the city, with big name brands and boutique local shops offering an unrivalled South Island retail experience. At the heart of the area is Riverside Market, the country’s only seven-daya-week farmers market coupled with quality bars and restaurants. Meander along the Ōtākaro Avon River Precinct, a pedestrian zone that follows the river through the city, leading to Margaret Mahy Playground.

Be warned, the kids WILL want to come back to the city just for this place. Other central city developments worth a visit include The Welder, a boutique hub in an old welder’s workshop, and SALT District, a collection of retailers and hospitality vendors showing the grittier side of Ōtautahi. Bordering the southern side of the city are the Port Hills, with one of the country’s most extensive track networks. Walk it, run it, or bike it – the hills are there to be explored. The Christchurch Adventure Park is a favourite among international mountain bikers, with a chairlift and a craft beer bar at the bottom. Whatever your interest, your flavour, your idea of a good time, Ōtautahi Christchurch has you covered.

(Photo: Kevin Clarke)

(Photo: Dean MacKenzie)

66 Explore South

S U P P L I E D CO N T E N T

For the perfect getaway in Queenstown stay in comfort at the Glebe The Glebe Apartments and Penthouses are located the closest to the town centre, within just a two minute walk. Making it the ideal base for you to enjoy all that Queenstown has to offer from adventure activities to shopping to dining at award-winning restaurants & bars.

Relax and unwind into a mountain state of mind. Make your selection from our premium Queenstown holiday homes. Book direct and save. Quote EXPLOREQT when booking direct for your free local wine and cheese welcome platter.

EMAIL OR PHONE US DIRECT FOR THE BEST DEALS!

E: stay@theglebe.co.nz Freephone: 0800 484 345 www.theglebe.co.nz 1 Beetham Street, Queenstown

Relax, unwind, STAY.

STAY is high end, self-contained private suites, boutique accommodation, located strolling distance from the historic town centre and the beaches of Lake Wakatipu. Locally owned and operated by Ingrid and The Stay of Queenstown team. Sharing Queenstown's beautiful environment and unique experiences with our guests is our passion.

www.stayofqueenstown.co.nz stayqueenstown@gmail.com 021 684 454

S T A Y

O F Q U E E N S TOW N 2318922-3/10-h

www.relaxaway.co.nz T: +64 (0)3 442 7013 | E: queenstown@relaxaway.co.nz

EXPLORE

West Coast Deals aplenty while exploring

STUNNING RELICS OF THE ICE AGE

(Photos: Tourism West Coast)

They’ve been around for millennia, vast walls of ice carving their way over, and through, solid rock faces as they creep toward the sea coast from the highest extremities of the Southern Alps.

68 Explore South

elics of the Ice Age, these massive structures dominate the landscape in a small handful of locations within New Zealand, with the West Coast hosting two of the most impressive. Fox and Franz Josef are located in the aptlynamed Glacier Country, just a few hours’ drive by way of the golden rolling hills of the Canterbury Plains and the stunning alpine village of Arthur’s Pass. Heading south from Kumara Junction along State Highway 6, the West Coast highway, there’s a diverse range of historic settlements and nature reserves to be explored, places like the former mining townships of Ross and Whataroa. The latter is the jump-off point for the Ōkārito lagoon, one of New Zealand’s largest estuarine lagoons and a must-do for nature and wildlife enthusiasts - home to more than 70 species, including the rare white heron/kōtuku. From Whataroa it’s only a hop, skip, and jump to Franz Josef Glacier. Known by early Maori as Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere, this glacier secured the name of the Austrian Emperor in 1865 from geologist Julius von Haast, who later left his name on a small settlement to the south. A little known fact is that New Zealand has around 3100 glaciers bigger than a square kilometre in size,

but most are located at high altitude and in harsh geography, so are only ever seen by a few. Franz Josef and Fox are the most accessible glaciers anywhere in this country and as they are only 25 minutes apart, why not tick both off the bucket list? Each offers their own style of adventures and overnighting in each of the alpine villages offers its own kind of experience. Franz Josef glacier is 10.5 kilometres long and descends from 3000 metres above sea level, terminating 19 kilometres from the wild Tasman Sea. It’s one of the few anywhere in the world that comes so close to a coastline. Overnighting in this alpine village provides an opportunity to soak in the soothing waters of the glacier hot pools, surrounded by lush rainforest. Unequivocally, it’s the perfect way to wrap up any glacial experience. Near Franz Josef is Lake Matheson, one of the most photographed locations on the planet. Renowned for its stunning beauty, the secluded Lake Matheson is nestled in ancient forest and is famous for mirror views of Aoraki/Mount Cook and Mount Tasman.

S U P P L I E D CO N T E N T

Its excellent reflecting properties are due to the dark brown colour of the water - the result of organic matter leached from the humus of the forest floor. Dawn and dusk are the best times to enjoy the reflections in the lake, which is easily accessed during a short walk. Fox Glacier, on the main highway south to Haast, is also a natural wonder and is worth spending time to explore. A range of accommodation suiting all budgets is on offer within the village adjacent to the glacier itself, with activities in that locality as passive or as active as anyone wants. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never a bad time to visit the untamed natural wilderness that defines the West Coast but a visit to this region over the coming summer has everything to recommend it. In the absence of international visitors the big coast offers a host of big deals right now. Glacier Country and Lake Matheson are a great starting point for those seeking to tick off the Coast through a series of short breaks, or if time permits, through a visit of a longer duration. Few who make the effort to visit the wild West Coast go home with regrets at having done so. www.westcoast.co.nz/deals

EXPLORE

Southland EMBRACE THE WONDERS OF SOUTHLAND International travel may be off the cards but ‘overseas’ adventures can still be had right here in Southland.

Nugget Point - Catlins (Photo: Videocopter)

o embrace the chance to experience the wonders in your own country and head south. There are few places that have such varied landscapes nestled together like Southland, right on the edge of New Zealand, anchoring the Southern Alps. It is a region of contrasts and boasts world class scenery from mountain peaks, the deepest of lakes, meandering rivers, fertile farmlands, lush primordial forests, and captivating coastlines. Southern hospitality is alive here in Southland as we are known for our warm welcome and genuine people, but there’s much more than meets the eye. Beginning in Invercargill, the gateway to Southland the streets are lined with grand architecture that gives you a feel of times gone by. But don’t let this fool you; with a thriving coffee scene, exciting events calendar, and an inner city rebuild there’s plenty to uncover in Invercargill. The beautifully rugged Catlins coast is a must-do on any visit to Southland, offering a rare taste of true seclusion, the Catlins’ dramatic and stunning scenery draws visitors in to experience its untouched quality. This spectacular coastal stretch is home to an array of marine life where sea lions are regular beach visitors, and dolphins can be seen frolicking in the shallows. Keep your eyes peeled for the

70 Explore South

rare but distinctive hoiho, the yellow-eyed penguin. The last vestige of society before Antarctica is Stewart Island, a raw and natural environment which gives visitors the opportunity to embrace the serenity of nature, spiced with the promise of adventure. This is an unspoilt island environment which basks in glorious sunsets over fresh, clean water and golden sand beaches next to lush native wilderness. A visit to Southland wouldn’t be complete without sampling the local cuisine, some of the world’s best fare is produced within the region, and Southland serves up an eclectic mix of dining experiences; succulent seafood including world famous Bluff Oysters, farm-fresh vegetables, prime cuts of meat and renowned cheese rolls – each one serves up their own fusion of tradition and local produce. Each one of Southland’s regions offers visitors a unique discovery just waiting to be explored. From the majestic wilderness of Western Southland to the bright lights of Invercargill and the rugged coastline of The Catlins, people will be captivated with every destination. You can escape all distractions, and get away from the everyday in Southland. Discover more at www.southlandnz.com.

Water Tower - Invercargill (Photo: Videocopter)

S U P P L I E D CO N T E N T

nom nom specialises in artisan ice creams, gelato and sorbets made from the freshest ingredients. we also have a delicious dairy-free soft serve option; we make our own fudges and have a great stock of classic kiwi lollies. open tuesday to sunday 11am â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 4.30pm 23 Holloway St, Clyde E: nom.nom.clyde@gmail.com

ENDNOTES History

T h e p e o p l e a re S co tc h . T h ey sto p p e d h e re o n t h e i r wa y f ro m h o m e to h e a ve n - t h i n k i n g t h ey h a d a r r i ve d .

T H E Y CA M E H E R E : Ma r k T w a i n Mark Twain was “singing for his supper” when he visited New Zealand 125 years ago.

eeply in debt from a failed investment, the American Huckleberry Finn and Tom Sawyer author’s tour sought to maximise his performance potential. And so in 1895 Twain appeared at a number of lectures in Invercargill, Dunedin, Ōamaru, Timaru, and Christchurch, before he travelled to the North Island. In New Zealand for over a month - he turned 60 while here - Twain’s ‘At Home’ series saw him lecturing at length, though humourously, on morals. “I shall like to teach morals to those people,” he stated. “I do not like to have them taught to me and I do not know any duller entertainment than that, but I know I can produce a quality of goods that will satisfy those people.” The World Speaking Tour began in Cleveland, Ohio, in July 1895, and finally ended in South

Africa a year later. Inbetween, Twain also spoke in Canada, Fiji, Australia, and India. His experiences and observations from the epic trip were documented in the 1897 book Following the Equator: A Journey Around the World. Twain arrived in Bluff from Tasmania on November 5, 1895, and he spoke at Invercargill’s Theatre Royal that evening. The following day he travelled to Dunedin for three evenings of lectures. The Otago Witness noted that Twain was not “a lecturer so much as a raconteur… no one could desire a more enjoyable entertainment than to hear these stories quaintly told by their author, with just enough of the American twang to give piquancy to his utterance…” In Dunedin he met Dr Thomas Hocken, noting that his house was a museum of Māori art and antiquities. Hocken later gifted his

collection to the public, and Dunedin’s Hocken Library remains a major institution. The author later made his famous comment about Dunedin’s Scottish settlers; “they stopped here on their way from home to heaven - thinking they had arrived”. He lectured in Timaru and Oamaru, before spending several days in Christchurch. There, as well as his morals lectures, he spoke at the Savage Club supper and Canterbury Club luncheon. His Christchurch appearances were largely very well received, with much cheering and stamping. The acclaim was not universal though, with poet Johannes Anderson stating, “in appearance he was not at all my idea of a humourist”. But Twain said that he’d had a “real good time” in Christchurch, before commencing the North Island leg of his tour.

ŌA M A R U B LU E PEN G U I N CO LO N Y WWW.PENGUINS.CO.NZ

Explore Canterbury’s best kept secret & immerse yourself in authentic kiwi culture

WATCH AS ŌAMARU’S CUTEST RESIDENTS, THE LITTLE BLUE PENGUINS, PARADE HOME AT DUSK EACH DAY AT THE BLUE PENGUIN COLONY. @OAMARUBLUEPENGUINCOLONY

OAMARUBLUEPENGUINCOLONY

The Scottish Shop has moved!

Find us at 1 George Street in an exciting new store which fuses Scottish and New Zealand culture. Pop in to browse our wide variety of Scottish, Welsh, Irish, New Zealand and South African gifts and food.

The Scottish & NZ Shop

info@chchheli.nz | 03 359 0470 | christchurchhelicopters.co.nz

1 George Street, Dunedin 9016 Ph 03 477-9965

Perfect Fine Jewellery U

sing Computer-Aided Design (CAD), the talented team at Polished Diamonds â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Jewellery Design can showcase how your new creation will actually look before it is made. The architectural CAD software uses your finger size and exact gemstone measurements to preview any style. This process enables you to add filigree, engraving or make style adjustments until the jewellery image is perfect. Clients can use existing rings and jewellery to remodel and produce an heirloom piece that will transcend the generations and look exceptional. Using the most modern equipment like 3D scanning, laser welding and 3D printing, Polished Diamonds produces the most accurate and perfect fine jewellery â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the quality and value is exceptional.

Polished Diamonds supplies over $120 million-worth of GIA-certified diamonds from their diamond cutting partners in Belgium and New York, plus has a fantastic supply of the finest gemstones imaginable. Any jewellery design can be modelled and produced. Any gemstone can be supplied or use your own and any price point can be achieved. As award-winning manufacturing jewellers, Polished Diamonds offers excellent value, highest quality and ensure your complete satisfaction with a lifetime guarantee. So, for remodelling, repairs or precious family jewellery, why go anywhere else? Visit a design studio, view our online boutique or use the freephone number to connect with the experts.

Auckland Showroom 269 Ponsonby Road Christchurch Showroom 30 New Regent Street Freecall 0800 233 299

Online Showroom www.polisheddiamonds.co.nz

Explore South 73

ENDNOTES Column

T R E AS U R E S O F T H E S OU T H Lisa Scott shares a few of her favourite things…

The weather You’re in for a treat, the South Island has actual weather: storms, sunshine, snow, and hail, sometimes all in one day. None of this piddly warm drizzle nonsense here. Southern weather is a drama llama, a musical with a great many costume changes; it is absolutely guaranteed that at some point your hair will be blown backwards, like a beagle’s ears when he’s running. Your cheeks will be pink, you will glow. The South Island’s weather inspires passion. Walk across a headland as the gulls ridge ride the wind, arms linked with the one you love. Shout endearments above the gale. Hold your jacket above your sweetie’s head as the rain comes in sideways and tuck a wet strand behind an ear. The Notebook was never so romantic. The food Admittedly it took a rather long time, in fact there was a period in the ‘60s when southern food was mostly yellow: cheese and pineapple sandwiches, banana milkshakes, hot chips… in the ‘80s avocados were viewed with suspicion, when they weren’t stuffed with prawns, and open declarations of vegetarianism were afforded raised eyebrows and a “But you still eat chicken, right?” All that has become a thing of the past. Southern food is world-beating. Fresh and innovative, bold and saucy… you can still get cheese and pineapple sandwiches, though, at the Lagonda in Oamaru.

74 Explore South

Humour Southerners have a very different sense of humour from the rest of the country. A joke is a statement of untruth, followed by silence. This is known as taking the p*ss and can sometimes be confusing. Southern humour doesn’t feel it needs to be overly clever. In more remote corners calling a short man ‘Stretch’ will bring the house down. If in doubt, laugh at everything. Architecture and street art New Zealand being a young country, it has made a young country’s mistakes. Parts of it bear the acne scars of hasty development, demolitions; buildings built fast upon the rubble and rued at length. The southernmost south suffered no such boom, no progress at all in fact until relatively recently, meaning its architectural gems, its bluestone beauties, its Victorian cake slices perched on busy corners still remain. And accompanying the restoration of heritage areas, especially in Dunedin, is some truly wonderful street art. Feast your eyeballs on the fantastic and surreal beasties dotted around the city created by artists like British street muralist Phlegm, whose mythical Kakapo-like creature resides in Moray Place, or Melbourne artist Suki’s monochromatic and dreamy murals. Grab a map and dance through an urban space decorated with fairytale characters, lacey patterns and giant tuatara.

Wildlife Little blue penguins, seals, sea lions, albatrosses taking flight at Taiaroa Head, their chicks fluffy balls of ridiculousness; the world’s largest colony of Otago Shags crowded onto Oamaru’s Sumpter Wharf, Hector’s dolphins playing in the surf down in the Catlins, kiwi on Stewart Island, whales breaching off the coast of Kaikoura. Be a human in an animal kingdom. Adventure 2020 has been one long uncertain yawn of sign in and sanitise, accompanied by a constant low-level hum of stress. The only antidote is to live more, fear less – fortunately the South Island is the adventure capital of the world. Fall into a canyon at 120kph on the world’s highest swing, paraglide, climb a waterfall, plummet down a mountain attached to bike or board, and feel yourself surge with the good kind of adrenalin. Get away from your damn phone That constant ringing, beeping, and dinging is making you bonkers. The South Island is the answer. Here there are vast swathes of Wi-Fi-less space – forests, lakes and mountains, remote huts where there is no coverage at all. Places where nobody can find you and ask a pointless question. Get lost (not literally please, Search and Rescue callouts are very expensive) in birdsong, bush walks, listening to the sound of your own breathing. No twits or tweets. No status updates, your status is Zen.

62 STORES SOUTH ISLAND WIDE

Explore South Summer 2020-21

Articles inside

EXPLORE: Cycling

EXPLORE: Golf

PLACE: Tarras

FEATURE: Films

FEATURE: Cars

COLUMN: Treasures of the South

FEATURE: Explorers

FEATURE: Whisky

BOOKS: Derek Morrison

ART: Neil Dawson