EXMOOR THE COUNTRY MAGAZINE
VILLAGE CRICKET
BOOKS
INTERIORS
HERB FARMS
www.exmoormagazine.co.uk
ISSUE No. 63 Summer 2013 £2.95
40 COMMANDO
SWEET PEAS
Ranger Julian Gurney Albert Beer’s Shear Exmoor Watchet’s Liveaboard Community
Hoar Oak Publishing Ltd
WILD EXMOOR Moorland bugs & birds Living off grid in Devon On safari & under canvas
Ian Cryer ROI: Painting a Year on Exmoor
stags.co.uk The West Country is Stags Country Sampford Peverell7.918Acres Acres DULVERTON A substantial bedroom farmhouse Lorem ipsum 6dolor sit, consectetur in need of modernisation with adipisicing elit, sed eiusmod traditional outbuildings and pasture. tempor incididunt ut et dolore sed One mile from Dulverton town sed magna aliqua. Ut enim minim centre, outsideutthe veniam just incididunt et Exmoor dolore sed. National Park. 2 reception rooms, Lorem ipsum dolor sit, consectetur farmhouse kitchen, 6 bedrooms, adipisicing elit, sed eiusmod tempor bathroom, stone outbuildings, incididunt ut et dolore sed sed garden, productive pasture. magna aliqua.. Web Find: Find: 12345 EPC Band G. Web 30478. GuidePrice £1,750,000 Guide £650,000 Tiverton Office 01884 256331
Dulverton Office 01398 323174
WHEDDON CROSS Sampford Peverell
7.268 Acres Acres
A substantial detached property set in lovely grounds with outstanding rural equestrian facilities. 2 reception rooms, kitchen Loremviews ipsumand dolorexcellent sit, consectetur adipisicing elit, sed eiusmod tempor incididunt study, 4 bedrooms, bathroom, good veniam outriding. In all ut 7.26 acres. ut et dolore sed sed magna aliqua.stables, Ut enim minim incididunt et dolore EPC Band ipsum F. Web Find: 57690. sed. Lorem dolor sit, consectetur adipisicing elit. Web Find: 12345 Guide £1,750,000 Guide Price £635,000
PORLOCK Sampford Peverell
Tiverton Office 01884 256331 Dulverton Office 01398 323174
8 Acres
A Grade II listed 17th Century thatched cottage conveniently situated in Lorem ipsum sit, consectetur adipisicing sed eiusmod tempor incididunt the centre ofdolor Porlock. Contemporary well elit, maintained interior of great character. reception rooms, bedrooms, 2 bath/shower rooms, ut et dolore 3 sed sed magna aliqua.kitchen, Ut enim 4 minim veniam incididunt ut et dolore courtyard Web 57370. sed. Loremgarden. ipsum dolor sit, Find: consectetur adipisicing elit. Web Find: 12345 Guide £1,750,000 Guide Price £400,000
Tiverton Office 01884 256331 Dulverton Office 01398 323174
Cornwall | Devon | Somerset | Dorset | London
EXFORD Sampford Peverell
1.658 Acres Acres
A most attractive detached cottage with stable yard and 1.65 acres in a wonderful rural setting. Sitting room, kitchen, dining room, snug,incididunt Lorem ipsum dolor sit, consectetur adipisicing elit, sed eiusmod tempor study/bedroom 5, bathroom, master bedroom with en-suite ut et dolore sed sed magna aliqua. Ut enim minim veniam incididuntbathroom, ut et dolore 3sed. further bedrooms, room, gardens, and 12345 stables. Lorem ipsum dolorshower sit, consectetur adipisicingpaddocks elit. Web Find: EPC Band: F. Web Find: 58181. Guide £1,750,000 Guide price £575,000
HEDDON VALLEY Sampford Peverell
Tiverton Office 01884 256331 Dulverton Office 01398 323174
2.38 Acres Acres
A charming detached period stone cottage with extensive river frontage Lorem ipsum sit, consectetur adipisicing sed tempor incididunt in idyllic ruraldolor location close to the Coast. elit, Hall, 2 eiusmod reception rooms, kitchen/breakfast cloakroom, 5 bedrooms, ut et dolore sed sedroom, magnautility aliqua.room, Ut enim minim veniam incididunt ut et dolore 3sed. bathrooms, 2 detached stone annexes, gardens/paddock 2.35 acres, Lorem ipsum dolor sit, consectetur adipisicing elit. Web Find: 12345 extensive river frontage, within walking distance of inn. Web Find: 48998 Guide £1,750,000 Guide Price £720,000
Tiverton Office 01884 256331 Barnstaple Office 01271 322833
stags.co.uk The West Country is Stags Country Sampford Peverell 2.34 8 Acres OAKFORDBRIDGE Acres AnLorem impressive house situated in ipsumperiod dolor sit, consectetur a small hamlet in the Exe Valley adipisicing elit, sed eiusmod with stream bordered gardens and grounds. tempor incididunt ut et dolore sed 3 reception rooms, kitchen/breakfast sed magna aliqua. Ut enim minim room, 6 bedrooms, veniam incididunt2utbathrooms, et dolore sed. enclosed courtyard, terraced Lorem ipsum dolorpartly sit, consectetur gardens, orchard, woodland and useful adipisicing elit, sed eiusmod tempor outbuildings. incididunt ut et dolore sed sed In magna all about 2.34 acres (0.94ha). aliqua.. Web Find: 12345 EPC Band G. Web Find: 51498 Guide £1,750,000 Guide Price £530,000 Tiverton Office 01884 256331 Dulverton Office 01398 323714
Sampford Peverell UPTON
8 Acres
Sampford Peverell LUXBOROUGH
8 Acres
Detached 4 bedroom period cottage situated on the edgetempor of a village Lorem ipsum dolor sit, consectetur adipisicing elit, sed eiusmod incididunt with 3 reception rooms, kitchen/breakfast room, ut et large dolore garden. sed sed magna aliqua. Ut enim minim veniam incididunt ut et dolore 4sed. bedrooms, bathroom, cloakroom, garage, lovely views. EPC Band F. Lorem ipsum dolor sit, consectetur adipisicing elit. Web Find: 12345 Web Find: 55031
An attractive Grade listed cottage set inelit, landscaped gardens the Lorem ipsum dolor sit, IIconsectetur adipisicing sed eiusmod temporon incididunt edge of thesed village with far reaching views. reception rooms, ut et dolore sed magna aliqua. Ut enim minim 2veniam incididunt ut etkitchen, dolore 4sed. bedrooms, 2 bath/shower rooms, boot room, garage, garden. Lorem ipsum dolor sit, consectetur adipisicing elit. Web Find: 12345 Web Find: 47480
Sampford Peverell OAKFORDBRIDGE
Sampford Peverell BRUSHFORD
Guide Price £1,750,000 Guide £450,000
Tiverton Office Office 01398 01884 323174 256331 Dulverton
8 Acres
Wonderful house in the Exe Valleyelit, runsed as eiusmod a successful Lorem ipsumperiod dolor sit, consectetur adipisicing temporsix incididunt bedroom andmagna restaurant. detached two-bedroom ut et doloreB&B sed sed aliqua.With Ut enim minim veniam incididuntcottage, ut et dolore gardens, orchard and woodland. EPC Band F. Web Find: 41475 sed. Lorem ipsum dolor sit, consectetur adipisicing elit. Web Find: 12345 Guide Price £1,750,000 Guide £639,500
Tiverton Office Office 01398 01884 323174 256331 Dulverton
Cornwall | Devon | Somerset | Dorset | London
Guide Price £1,750,000 Guide £425,000
Tiverton Office Office 01398 01884 323174 256331 Dulverton
8 Acres
A delightful characteradipisicing two bedroom cottage in atempor rural setting Lorem ipsumtraditional dolor sit, consectetur elit, sed eiusmod incididunt with outbuildings and small turnout Sitting room, ut et garden, dolore sed sed magna aliqua. Ut enim minimpaddock. veniam incididunt ut et dolore kitchen, bathroom, 2 bedrooms, garden, garage, outbuildings, stable. sed. Lorem ipsum dolor sit, consectetur adipisicing elit. Web Find: 12345 EPC Band D. Web Find: 48850 Guide Price £1,750,000 Guide £225,000
Tiverton Office Office 01398 01884 323174 256331 Dulverton
www.chaninandthomas.co.uk
CHANIN & THOMAS Coast & Country Property
STOGUMBER - £309,950 Situated in the heart of the popular village of Stogumber – A skillfully converted former Baptist Chapel now offering spacious accommodation over three floors to include a large open plan living room/kitchen/dining room, an en-suite master bedroom, two further bedrooms, utility room and viewing gallery. Outside, the property enjoys a private roof terrace. EPC Rating - D
PORLOCK - £729,500 Occupying an outstanding position in a much favoured residential area on the edge of the village of Porlock, and standing in gardens and grounds extending to approximately 1.25 acres in all - an individual spacious detached five bedroom chalet bungalow built during the mid 1980's, and enjoying outstanding views over open fields towards Selworthy Woods and beyond. EPC Rating - D
Minehead Office
Williton Office
London Office
8 The Parade • Minehead Somerset • TA24 5UF T 01643 706666 E post@chaninandthomas.co.uk
9 Fore Street • Williton Somerset • TA4 4PX T 01984 632167 E chanin.williton@btconnect.com
26 Cadogan Square Mayfair London SW1X 0JP
Your local law firm Good legal advice for individuals and business, from your local law firm. Whatever your needs please give us a call for a free initial meeting. Property & Conveyancing Family Law Wills, Trust & Probate Criminal Law & Accidents Business
Wiveliscombe Dulverton 01984 623203
01398 322100
Williton
Minehead
01984 632277
Taunton
01823 251571
01643 700008/703123
www.risdonhosegood.com
56 Published by: Hoar Oak Publishing Ltd Address: Exmoor The Country Magazine, PO Box 281, Parracombe, Devon EX31 4WW Tel: 0845 224 1203 Email: hoaroak.publishing@googlemail.com Website: www.exmoormagazine.co.uk Facebook: Exmoor Magazine Twitter: ExmoorMagazine Editor & Designer: Naomi Cudmore naomi@lighthousecommunications.co.uk/ www.lighthousecommunications.co.uk Editorial Director: Elaine Pearce hoaroak.publishing@googlemail.com Assistant Editor: Katy Charge Associate Editor: John Dunscombe Website: Mike Bishop & Naomi Cudmore Subscriptions & Office Manager: Sue South: admin@theexmoormagazine.com Colour Management & Associate Designer: Colin Matthews Advertising Sales: Zara Media: Grant Harrison, Susie Walker. Tel: 01392 201227; email: info@zaramedia.co.uk Printing: Warner Midlands PLC, Bourne IMPORTANT NOTICE We do our best to ensure that all advertisements and articles appear correctly. We cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by this publication. Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the publisher or editor. Copyright © Hoar Oak Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited without written permission. We welcome contributions that fit into the magazine’s general ethos but, whilst every care is taken, all such material is sent entirely at the sender’s risk.
22
Contents
44
Summer 2013
8
In the News
15
40 Commando
17
Farming Talk: Shear Exmoor
21
Young Farmers
Ellen Cowling & Bee Hobbs
22
Profile: Julian Gurney
24
Small Lives that Shimmer
Jane A. Mares
29
Eating Out: The Hood Arms, Kilve
33
30
The late Albert Beer
Jennette Baxter
Taste of Exmoor: Herb Farms Mel Roach
24
Cover photograph: The Punchbowl in August, by Andrew Wheatley. (www.andrewwheatleyphotography.com) 91
Recipes: The delicate Flavours of Sunshine Lucas Hollweg
D.R. Loadman LT, RN
Adrian Tierney Jones
72
6 Exmoor Summer 2013
77
38
37
Time for Devon Wine Lists Everywhere!
Roger White
38
Environment: The Bulworthy Project Mel Roach
43
Walking: Ilfracombe and Points West
Sue Viccars
47
Coast: Salty Sea Dogs, The Watchet Liveaboards
51
Interiors: Swain House Boutique B&B
Tony James
Jason and Annie Robinson
65
55
Property: Methods of Sale
David Lethaby
56
Photographer's Exmoor: Moor and More Birds
Andy Stuthridge, with words by Trevor Beer
60
Family Page: Uncle Willow Explores Exmoor Underfoot
63
Active Exmoor: A Stroll Around Somerset Cricket
Stephen Edmonds
67
On Safari
Tony James
71
New Business: Longlands Safari Lodges
74
Books: News & Reviews
Endymion Beer
63
47
83
Country Matters: Nightjar Moments
Trevor Beer
84
Well Being: Dr Gavin Haig Elaine Pearce
86
Garden Notes: Sweet Peas
Sheila Dearing
88
Gardens: Court House
Rosemary Lauder
91 In the Stableyard: New Para Equestrian Endurance Class and Lyddonscroft Horse Transport Cindy Cowling
Hilary Binding
93
Jill Headford
77
The Arts: A Year on Exmoor
94
Compiled by Heather Holt
Ian Cryer, ROI
96
81 Crossword Bryan Cath
Lawhorse: Loaning Your Horse Exmoor Diary Final Paws: Pip the Duck Dog Mary Bromiley
Images here (with page numbers to indicate feature location), courtesy as follows: 22, 63, 47, 38, 72: Andrew Hobbs; 56: Andy Stuthridge; 91: Ian Wigley; 24: Jane Mares; 33: Tara Fisher; 67: Experience Exmoor.
16
33
Competitions and Reader Offers!
WIN A five-star night at The Old Stables B&B. See page 10. WIN A beautiful Dark Skies jug by ceramicist Jacqueline Leighton Boyce. See page 14. WIN A pair of Berghaus Expeditor AQ Hiking Boots and receive a free £5 voucher for Berghaus at Taunton Leisure. See page 45. WIN A night for two at Swain House B&B, Watchet. See page 52 LIMITED EDITION PRINT by Leo Davey for Exmoor Magazine See page 59. SAVE 10% when booking a Culbone Food Safari. See page 69. SAVE £4.99 on Somerset Cricket, The Glory Years, by Alain Lockyer with Richard Walsh. See page 74 WIN £20 in our crossword competition. See page 81.
67
Exmoor Summer 2013 7
COMMUNITY
Lynmouth Pavilion Editor’s letter
W
elcome to the summer magazine and – hopefully – to summer! To celebrate the sunshine, we have packed this issue with more great competitions and offers than ever before, with luxurious breaks, walking boots, beautiful ceramics and more, including a particularly great offer this issue with our Father's Day subscription for £10 – see page 54. Don't forget to enter the competitions, as it's easy, free and you have high odds! My only regret is that I am not allowed to win any of these prizes myself. However, I have had plenty of my own local pleasures since the clocks went forward. April walks in Horner Woods and around Clatworthy included many lovely wildlife sightings, including a dipper in Halse Combe and grey wagtails courting by a fast-flowing stream. I have also been able to return to my passion – pilot gig rowing – after the long, dark winter; rowing practice after work is possible once again. The drive to North Devon several times a week is my dedicated 'thinking time' for mulling over future magazine content, and covering a regular route also presents the opportunity to take in the details of the changing seasons more than previously. Meanwhile, at my desk, I have continued to learn from our writers. I've read about ladybirds and skylarks, charcoal burning and shearing, to name but a few, the latter within an article by Albert Beer, a long-time friend of the magazine, whose piece on shearing arrived shortly before we received the very sad news of his death. We extend our condolences to Albert's family; Sean, his son, will be dedicating a special feature in the next issue to Albert and his chosen charity, 'Send a Cow', about which he was passionate. Other wishes from our team include good-luck thoughts for Friends of Quantock, who have taken over nearly 400 acres of the Quantock Hills from Somerset County Council. We hope that they get plenty of support; find out how you can help on page 14. Congratulations to the many tourism businesses which have won awards of late (a small selection are mentioned in this issue), and we would like to wish local businesses the best possible summer season. Happy reading! 8 Exmoor Summer 2013
Exmoor National Park Authority has secured just under £250,000 from the Heritage Lottery Fund (HLF) for a wide range of learning, outreach and heritage work connected with Lynton and Lynmouth and the Exmoor National Park based at the Lynmouth Pavilion, which is currently under construction. Together with an The pavilion as it was in early April. ENPA additional £50,000 from the Local Authority and the value of voluntary time given to the project, the total funding will have a value of just under £340,000. Part of this new money will fund two three-year posts: a full-time Project Officer and a part-time Volunteer Coordinator to work with the local community. This will include working with schools (including West Exmoor Federation of Primary Schools), colleges (including Ilfracombe and Petroc) and community groups to research the local heritage in collaboration with local societies and heritage groups; a rolling programme of familyfriendly event days, evening talks and walks, seaside safaris, woodland rambles, history tours, heritage workshops and specialist days for groups and individuals. A defined area within the interpretive displays on the ground floor will enable people to communicate their own experiences of Lynmouth and Exmoor and there will also be space for temporary exhibitions and smaller displays. Local societies and heritage groups with an interest in Exmoor will be invited to help deliver an exciting and engaging programme that will offer a whole range of ways to explore what makes Exmoor such a special place. Ben Totterdell, the National Park’s Interpretation and Education Manager, said: "We are very grateful to HLF for this funding, which will enable so many more individuals and organisations to become part of this exciting project to produce displays, films, stories, events and even a mobile phone app that reflect their own experiences and knowledge of the landscape, history and wildlife of both Lynton and Lynmouth and the wider Exmoor Area. "These materials will, in turn, help others to enjoy, understand and explore our unique heritage. The project will be based around the Lynmouth Pavilion, which is currently being completely rebuilt, and will help to make the most of what will be an amazing facility for both local people and visitors." A projected vision of the new pavilion building which is progressing well and which, it is hoped, will be ready for use later this year. ENPA
News
ENVIRONMENT
FESTIVAL NEWS
Repair of Tarr Steps
Simonsbath & Stogumber Simonsbath's spring festival is now in full swing, and continues until 22 June. It offers an exciting variety of classical, folk, jazz, opera and world music, talks, workshops, an art exhibition and recreational activities for all the family. This spring the festival was awarded a grant of £6,000 from the Heritage Lottery Fund to revive a knowledge of and interest in the traditional music and songs of the Exmoor Forest and the wider Exmoor area.
Tarr Steps following the damage, photo by Mike Watson During the severe floods of December 2012 when the River Barle rose by nearly three metres, Tarr Steps, the longest clapper bridge in the country, was seriously damaged – an event that received national publicity. The debris-arresting cables, which were slung across the river to catch passing debris and had successfully worked since 1952, were wrecked by the force of the water and the amount of fallen timber being swept downstream. This resulted in more than half the bridge's stones being swept away.
The grant will pay for a residency by musicians from the folk and community organisation Wren Music, enabling them to share their collection of music and songs with local schools and community groups in a series of workshops throughout the course of the festival.
Tarr Steps is classified as a highway, so the responsibility for the repairs fell to Peter Radford, Somerset County Council’s bridge manager, and contractors Crestmoor Construction. Having located the missing slabs, the team worked in testing conditions to repair the bridge, which was restored to its former glory by early February this year. The flood was a repeat of the disastrous deluge of 1952 when the central part of the bridge was totally swept away and had to be rebuilt. In the years between there have been other, less serious instances when individual stones have had to be repaired, so it is possible that the bridge has been altered over the last 60 years. Tarr Steps was built, with pedestrians in mind, to improve communication between Hawkridge and Winsford (it is the only ‘ancient’ crossing point on the Barle between Withypool and Marsh Bridge at Dulverton), but it is not clear who built it and how long ago. In a bid to try to find some answers, the National Park Authority recently commissioned an Historical and Archaeological Study of Tarr Steps, which is now underway. A synopsis of the report is expected to be available later in the year.
St Luke's is the venue for a wide range of concerts throughout the festival, details of which are all listed on the website, or you can request a brochure (details below). For tickets, tel. 01643 831451, email: simonsbathfestival@mail.com or book online at www.simonsbathfestival.co.uk, where full details of the programme can be found. Follow the event on Facebook and Twitter. For a printed programme call Victoria Thomas on 01643 831343. Simonsbath Festival benefits from support from the Exmoor National Park Partnership Fund, the Moorland Landscape Partnership’s Heart of Exmoor, and from ARTlife in partnership with West Somerset Council.
Tarr Steps during the repairs (courtesy Steve Guscott.)
Just as we were going to press we were also told that, following a 15-year interval, the West Somerset village of Stogumber is to recommence its music festival this August with top-class international and UK artists as well as free and fringe events with local acts. Find out more: www.stogumberfestival.com, Twitter: @StogumberFest, Facebook: StogumberFestival, tel: 0845 539 0168.
Exmoor Summer 2013 9
News
TOURISM
Awards left, right and centre for tourism providers!
rio
us night for t
! wo
Well done Spears Cross!
Win a luxu
This spring Exmoor Magazine was told about a whole host of awards which had been won by those in the tourism industry across the area, from visitor attractions to accommodation providers. There are far too many to mention here, but we have put together a small selection from those who emailed in. If you have won an award you can spread the word on our Facebook page (Exmoor Magazine). Congratulations to everyone who has been celebrating success over the last few months and we wish all those involved in our precious tourism industry a successful – and clement – summer!
WIN!
Spears Cross, the award-winning boutique B&B in Dunster, has just landed a further accolade. It has been chosen as a winner in the ‘Bargain Hotel’ category by Trip Advisor in its 2013 Traveller’s Choice awards. Spears Cross has, in the past, won the ‘Best Bed & Breakfast in the South West’ award from South West Tourism and the ‘Best Bed & Breakfast on Exmoor’ award from Visit Exmoor, as well as being a ‘Gold’ award winner from Taste of the West. Its current award from VisitEngland is a ‘Breakfast’ award. Find out more: www.spearscross.co.uk
Tiverton Museum awarded Bronze for Small Visitor Attraction of the Year Tiverton Museum of Mid Devon Life is delighted to have won the Bronze Award for the South West’s Small Visitor Attraction of the Year. Children enjoying the transport gallery. Pippa Griffith, Curator at Tiverton Museum, Courtesy Amanda Hartman. says: "We are thrilled to have won this prestigious award, which places us among the very top of the South West's many visitor attractions. This is a wonderful reward for all of the hard work that our staff and volunteers do at the museum and proves yet again that you don’t need to have a big budget to provide an excellent service." Find out more: www.tivertonmuseum.org.uk
Calvert Trust accolade Calvert Trust Exmoor has been accredited with Five Star Quality by Quality in Tourism (The Assessment Service for VisitEngland), becoming the only five-star accredited activity accommodation in the country. You can read all about the Calvert Trust in the last issue, which is available as a back copy from our website. Find out more about the Calvert Trust: www.calvert-trust.org.uk/exmoor
Win a five-star night for two at The Old Stables, Minehead The Old Stables B&B in Minehead has received a five-star AA rating – making it the only five-star-rated accommodation in Minehead. To celebrate, owners Andrew Dodd and his Finnish wife, Nina, are offering one lucky reader of Exmoor Magazine a free night for two. Andrew and Nina have been running The Old Stables for a year now. The B&B operates from a former stables, literally a minute's walk from Minehead's seafront and Exmoor National Park. The stables were originally built in 1901 and in the 1960s the building was converted into a private home. When the couple bought it two years ago, they saw the potential for a B&B as its shape and layout provided a chance to separate the guests' quarters from the family home. Nina says: "We decided right from the start that we wanted a more Scandinavian type of an interior with a light colour scheme and large, uncluttered rooms. The response from the guests and from the AA has been overwhelmingly positive." To enter, simply email your details to: info@theoldstablesminehead.co.uk by 15 July, putting the wording 'Exmoor Magazine competition entry' in the subject line. Find out more about the B&B online at: www.theoldstablesminehead.co.uk
10 Exmoor Summer 2013
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Exmoor Summer 2013 11
News
EXMOOR SOCIETY
COMMUNITY
Alfred Vowles Photographic Competition In mid-January BBC Countryfile focused on Alfred Vowles, a photographer at the turn of the twentieth century who took numerous photographs that provide important records of rural life on Exmoor at the time. He developed the camera as an art form, with the photographs interpreting the richness of life on the moor.
Loo news! In 2008, when the local council announced that the public toilets in Barbrook – along with a number of other public conveniences on Exmoor – had become too costly to run, the community decided to take action.
Entrance to sheep stell at Three Combes Foot by Jenny Gibson.
The Exmoor Society, with permission from his son who lives in New Zealand, runs a biennial Alfred Vowles Photographic Competition for amateurs to help draw attention to his early work and to encourage people to interpret life on Exmoor today. The three categories for entry in the competition are landscape, people at work and heritage, with the overall winner receiving the Alfred Vowles trophy. The competition is now open for photographs taken this year, up until the closing date of 31 December. Alfred Vowles’ connections with the Lorna Doone story were also mentioned on Countryfile, with the books he wrote about where the Doone Valley is to be found. Exmoor Society member Jenny Gibson was filmed riding in an open Landau with presenter Matt Baker along the Oare Valley. Not only did she provide the researchers for the programme with much detail about the Lorna Doone novel but also about Alfred Vowles. Jenny was the last winner of the photographic competition, with her image (above) appearing in the 2013 Exmoor Review. The Society hopes that many amateur photographers will enter this year's competition inspired by Alfred Vowles and Exmoor's unique beauty. Find out more: www.exmoorsociety.org.uk
EQUINE
Exmoor Pony Festival
The 2013 Exmoor Pony Festival will run from Saturday 24 August to Sunday 1 September with a week of special events and activities to celebrate and rediscover this unique pony breed and the people who take care of the moorland herds.
Events will include an art exhibition, a Fun Day and a Pleasure Ride, and members of the EPS will accompany photo safaris. There will also be open days at farms to allow the public to see the ponies close at hand, Exmoor National Park Authority rangers will be conducting walks across the moor, while the Moorland Mousie Trust will be holding events at their Exmoor Pony Centre where handling courses are held throughout the autumn. A Meet the Herds Day at Cutcombe Market will include ponies that have regularly qualified for such top competitions as The Horse of the Year Show, and leading research expert Dr Susan Baker, author of Survival of the Fittest, will be on hand to provide talks on the ponies themselves. There will also be a Pony Agility and Handling Demonstration with the twice-world-champion Exmoor Pony stallion, Hawkwell Versuvius. The festival is funded by the Heritage Lottery Fund through the Exmoor Moorland Landscape Partnership. Visit exmoorponyfestival.org.uk or call 01398 323841. Several events require advance booking.
12 Exmoor Summer 2013
The village has recently lost its Post Office and shop, and a few years ago nearly lost the village hall, which a community trust now owns and runs. A second trust was formed, with four new trustees who offered to take over the ownership, running and financing of the toilets. After lengthy discussions the building was finally handed over to them trust by the council. One section of the building has been refurbished to create a new unisex toilet suitable for use by the disabled. The other room has been converted into an information room for visitors. There is also a small lending library of donated books. Photo-voltaic panels have been installed to generate electricity and there are plans for a lift-share scheme to be run from here. Trustee, Roland Gold, says: "We have reduced the running costs of the toilets by over £6,000 to below £1,000! We keep them open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week and they are free to use. "If you are part of a small community facing closures of services or buildings, my advice would be 'do not give up!' If savings of the magnitude of £6,000 per year can be made on one village toilet, how much could be made in other public services?" Roland's fellow trustees are Ian White, and Simon and Deborah Hatcliffe. They can be contacted by phone on 01598 752464, by email on ianwhite.wes@virgin.net or by post at 2 Cherrybridge, Barbrook, Lynton, Devon EX35 6PG. The refurbished building was reopened on 19 March by Tom Tossel from Barbrook who was one of the team which built the toilets originally.
from splendid opulence… Joe Cornish
Contact 01643 821314 or email dunstercastle@nationaltrust.org.uk for further details.
accommoda
Meander am Luccombe, delicious cr
Enjoy wild b events. Wha
Holnicote Estate Leaving Dunster Castle, travel five miles west to experience the magnificent countryside and breathtaking views on the Holnicote Estate. The 5042 hectares of diverse landscape; with footpaths and bridleways amounting to 160 miles, accommodate both energetic and gentle activities.
…to natural magnificence
Time Well Spent on Exmoor Dave Wood Meander among traditional cottages at Selworthy, Horner, Luccombe, Bossington and Allerford and indulge in Dave Wood delicious cream teas.
Seamus Rogers Magnus Rew Magnus Rew
Enjoy wild beauty, dark, wide skies or take in one of our events. Whatever the weather you will not be disappointed!
Dunster Dunster Castle Castle and and Gardens Gardens Contact 01643 862452 or email
…to natural magnificence Dave Wood
from splendid
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and Minehead The The Cottage Cottage was was home home to to Coleridge Coleridge for for three three years years from from 1797. 1797. It It was was during during his his time time here here in in Somerset Somerset that that Coleridge Coleridge wrote his work, Rime Ancient wrote his finest finest work, including including The Rime of of the theDunster Ancient Every Wednesday andThe Saturday: Mariner Mariner and and Kubla Kubla Khan. Khan. Castle Express
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Exmoor Summer 2013 13
Image © Craig Hutchings
News
QUANTOCKS
Friends of Quantock Take on AONB Friends of Quantock (FOQ) have taken over nearly 400 acres of the Quantock Hills from Somerset County Council (SCC). Last year the Council declared the land surplus to requirements, deciding instead to concentrate its limited resources on protecting essential frontline services.
David Huxtable, SCC Cabinet Member for Resources, said: "We are delighted to transfer these lands to the Friends of Quantock who satisfy all our very high criteria for management and stewardship of the land. We know these lands will be in good hands now and for future generations to enjoy as they always have."
Following this announcement there was widespread anxiety about the future of the hills and the local economy if the AONB were to be sold and whether it would still be accessible to all.
Friends of Quantock look forward to continuing to work closely with the AONB service, local landowners, Quantock Commoners (who have grazed their sheep and ponies there since Saxon times) and others to protect this special heathland.
Now the charity Friends of Quantock will hold Over Stowey Custom Common and Thorncombe Hill as custodians in perpetuity, on behalf of the people of Somerset and the many visitors from further afield. Free public access will continue, with people being able to range across the open landscape, as they have done for hundreds of years.
Alan Hughes, Chairman-elect of the charity, said, "We are delighted to be able to take on the management of the land; it will be a challenge as it will cost up to £5,000 a year to maintain it and we will need the support of more members. Work will be needed to maintain its paths,
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COMMUNITY
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WIN!
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Dark Skies inspires ceramics
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'The Dark Skies' is a new series created by Dulverton-based ceramics designer Jacqueline Leighton Boyce as part of her 'Exmoor China' Fine Bone China ranges. Jacqueline wanted to produce a new range to celebrate Exmoor's designation as the first Dark Sky Reserve in Europe. The new Dark Skies range features black, painterly surfaces combined with real silver lustre details. The Fine Bone China items include mugs (with the planets), jugs, cappuccino cups and saucers (pictured above), small bowls and plates. So far this range is available from the Post Office in Dulverton only and Jacqueline has teamed up with the magazine to offer one lucky reader a prize piece from the range. Everyone who subscribes to the magazine online during June will be entered in a draw to win this beautiful jug. The competition is open to those who buy the subscription for themselves and to anyone buying a gift subscription. Visit www.exmoormagazine.co.uk – good luck! See the range at: www.exmoorchina.com.
14 Exmoor Summer 2013
If you would like to support FOQ, you can join as an individual or business member. Members will be invited to local events, talks and walks. To join FOQ – or to give a donation to their special fund for Saving the Quantocks – download a form from www.friendsofquantock.com or contact the Secretary: info@friendsofquantock.com or 01984 656633.
-B
q
MAGAZINE NEWS
Stanley Johnson visited Crowcombe in April, as guest of honour at the Friends of Quantock party to celebrate their new status. He is pictures (left) with Alan Hughes, Chairman of Friends of Quantock. car parks and woodland, as well as to protect its rare plants, birds and ancient monuments. This is a wonderful opportunity to involve local people in their heritage. We are grateful to Somerset County Council for making this takeover possible.”
Heasley Mill WI is 60! Heasley Mill is a tiny community in the foothills of Exmoor’s National Park, with only a handful of dwellings. Nevertheless, way back in 1953, it started a branch of the Women’s Institute which is still active today. On Saturday 16 March, exactly 60 years later, the WI celebrated with a special tea, inviting members past and present to the village's pretty Village Hall, which remains the venue for meetings after all this time. Heasley Mill WI President, Carol Fenwick, welcomed North Devon President Elma Blackmoor, Vice-President Julie Ayre and six founder members of the group, some of whom had travelled from afar.
From left: Edna Geen (née Blackmore), Edna Clatworthy (née Rumbelow), Dorothy Rottenbury (née Tarr), Molly Thorne (née Rottenbury); seated: Jean Eastabrook (née Kelland) and Eileen Scoins (née Kelland).
T
HOME AT LAST
he Commanding Officer of 40 Commando Royal Marines has described the Commando’s work in Afghanistan as ‘absolutely exemplary’. He returned to Taunton with over 50 Royal Marines from the Headquarters of 40 Commando in early April, after completion of their final tour of duty in Afghanistan. They joined their comrades from Bravo, Charlie and Delta Companies who returned to the UK in February and March; their bases in the Nahr-e Saraj district of central Helmand having been handed over to Afghan Security Forces or closed due to improved security. The final elements of the Commando then returned in late April. Lieutenant Colonel Matt Jackson, Commanding Officer of 40 Commando Royal Marines, said, "The Commando Group has been able to transfer lead security responsibility from International Assistance Security Forces (ISAF) to the Afghan National Security Forces in a very difficult area of central Helmand. Working together over the winter, we have given the Army, the National Police, the Local Police and the Civil Order Police the confidence in their own abilities to operate together. More importantly, we have given them the belief that they can operate independently from ISAF; they now know that they are good enough to face down any future challenges that lie ahead. This is in no small measure due to the sacrifice made not just by the 61 Royal Marines who have lost their lives in this campaign, but by all Service personnel." 40 Commando has spent the last seven months based at Main Operating Base (MOB) PRICE (or, in deference to the Marines'
40 Commando Returns to Base WORDS by D.R. Loadman, LT RN Naval traditions, ‘HMS Price’ as it was titled during their tour), near the town of Gereshk, in Nahr-e Saraj District, central Helmand. The Commando has been developing the capacity of the Afghan National Security Forces to take responsibility for security in the region and successfully assisting them to degrade the insurgency. Over the course of their tour, which began for some members of the Commando Unit in August last year, they saw a marked drop in violence in the region coupled with an increase in the Afghan National Security Forces presence. 40 Commando’s deployment to Afghanistan is the last time an entire Royal Marines Commando Unit will deploy to the country before UK troops leave in 2014. The Royal Marines have been deeply involved with the campaign in Afghanistan since its inception in 2001. 40 Commando deployed on Operation Oracle from October 2001 to March 2002, Herrick 7 from October 2007 to April 2008, Herrick 12 from April to October 2010 and finally Herrick 17 from September 2012 to April 2013.
"Having been in Afghanistan on and off since 2001, it has been really encouraging to see the tangible progress that the Afghan National Security Forces have made in their ability to legitimately and effectively provide security in the region. This is testament to the sacrifices and efforts made by every rotation (‘Herrick’) of troops in Helmand. We have sadly lost many outstanding Marines and soldiers during this campaign and, although only some small comfort to the families of the bereaved or injured, I can honestly say that these tragic losses have not been in vain. Everyone who has served here has made a difference, not only in Afghanistan, but also to the security of the UK by helpingprevent Afghanistan from being a haven for terrorists." Chief of Staff for 40 Commando, Major Karl Gray RM Far left: The White Ensign being lowered for the final time at MOB PRICE. Left: A final view from the helicopter. 40 Commando Royal Marines served with Task Force Helmand, led by the British Army’s 4th Mechanised Brigade. On return to the UK, 40 Commando will re-role for contingency operations and be re-subordinated back to 3 Commando Brigade, providing part of the UK’s amphibious warfare and theatre entry capability.
Exmoor Summer 2013 15
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FARMING TALK
Shear Exmoor WORDS by the late Albert Beer COLOUR PHOTOS by Andrew Hobbs
B
efore the advent of artificial fibres mankind was blessed with a number of natural fibres, providing his apparel: wool from sheep, linen from flax, cotton from the cotton fields and silk from the silk worm, as well as wool and hair from a wide range of more exotic species such as camels, goats and llamas. For us in Great Britain it was the wool from our native sheep that provided our staple fabric. The importance of wool as a farm product is without doubt – it is said that some of the great churches of Britain were built on the fortunes of wool and, of course, the woolsack became the seat of the Lord Chancellor.
Top: Big wheel power, East Barton, Horwood, 1940s. The photograph is thought to have been taken by a (now-deceased) Land Army girl from Newcastle, who later returned North. Above left and right: Traditional shears, courtesy Lucy Beer; and a ball of wool – the late Jo Beazley and judge Percy Elston with a champion Closewool, courtesy the late Albert Beer.
Before the rapid rise of mills and machinery, country ladies spun from the fleeces using treadle-powered spinning wheels and today’s nostalgic interest in heritage crafts has seen numerous people taking up spinning and natural woollens are in good demand.
demand for wool. It was a regular sight when I was a boy to see a farm worker, usually the most junior member of staff, being sent out to pluck the wool from the bloated carcass of a dead sheep before digging a hole to bury the animal; the wool was then kept and sold with the fleeces at shearing time.
The latter half of the twentieth century saw many fluctuations in wool prices due to changes in fashions, the development of 'manmade' fibres and the international
In the mid-twentieth century the British Wool Marketing Board was set up to bring order to the market and it has done a first-class job developing a substantial
export market. Even so, there have been some poor prices in fairly recent times, when many fleeces brought in less than they had cost in shearing. The demand from China is very important to our price and thankfully, over the past few years, we have seen a good recovery. Why else do we shear sheep? For hygiene purposes to keep them clean, especially around the rear ends, and to help prevent fly strike in the warmer months. Also, in more recent decades
Exmoor Summer 2013 17
A series of photos from the Shear Exmoor competition event, 2012, sponsored by the Rest and Be Thankful Inn at Wheddon Cross. Above left: Judges Alan Derryman and Russell Cowling, and the third judge, Gavin Stephens (blue top in sheep pen), with shearers during the shearing competition. Above right: Sharon Dalgleish rolling wool, helped by Nigel Cowling's feet. flock-masters housing sheep for lambing have shorn sheep in order to provide more room in their housing and stop the fleece being soiled and contaminated by the litter used for bedding. On Exmoor the wool clip has always been an important part of the farm economy and it was said that the area in and around the parishes of North Molton and Brayford had the highest concentration of sheep in the world!
The breeds for the job How then did the farmers of Exmoor and the surrounding parishes breed their sheep to give a good wool crop, in terms of both quantity and quality, with a fleece giving protection during the winter? Going back some 150 years, there was the 'Porlock', later called the Exmoor Horn. In the lower areas there were Longwools, and then the 'Scotties' were bought down from the North. The Devon Closewool was developed in the latter half of the nineteenth century by crossing the Exmoor Horn and the local Longwool breeds. The oldest flock of Closewools still in existence dates back to 1894 and the Breed Society was formed in 1923. The Scotch Blackface is said to have been brought South at the time of the Knights'
18 Exmoor Summer 2013
development of the Moor, being walked down from the North by the Scottish shepherds who came to work in the area. As its name implies, the Closewool has a good-quality fleece, which is springy when handled, close and fine, and ideal for withstanding wind and rain. The Exmoor Horn also produces a quality fleece, with that from a ewe weighing in at around 7lbs. More recent decades have seen the local sheep population become much more diverse, with considerable cross-breeding of our native breeds and the incoming influence of other British breeds like the Swaledale, Cheviot, Welsh Mountain, etc., as well as the importations of so-called 'Continentals' from Europe.
The tools for the job It seems likely that when our ancestors first started to use wool, they either cut it off with knives or, perhaps, plucked it. Certainly the earliest version of shears or clippers I have ever seen must be the type still available, I believe, today. They work on the same principle as a pair of scissors, but without the pivotal pin and they are made all in one piece with the two blades completely joined behind the handles, with an integral leaf spring acting as a fulcrum and aid to use. Millions of sheep through the years have been shorn
by skilled shepherds using hand shears but in the early-twentieth century machine shearing was developed. One of the earlier types was that shown in the picture of shearing at East Barton, Horwood, in the late 1940s (page 17). The large wheel was turned by hand, driving a chain which in turn drove angled crown wheels to the flexible drive tube, clearly visible in the picture. This gave a high gearing ratio, which drove the oscillating cutter in a headpiece somewhat similar to that used in a modern barber’s shop! The man turning the wheel did not have an easy task and he had to keep the turning speed even to give consistency to the clippers – any lapse would be met with a rebuke from the shearer! A development from this machine saw the large wheel replaced by a small 'gearbox' system with a handle driven by the operator on a much smaller circuit; allowed for an easier day’s work. From this stage the logical development was to replace the hand-driven gearbox with a small electric motor powered by electricity or similar engine-driven device. Another advantage was that the electric motor could be hung up over the shearing area with no cumbersome stand at risk of being kicked over by a fractious sheep.
Farming Talk
The cutting heads have become more sophisticated over the years, with technical improvements leading to faster work rates, but the job still requires a high level of skill.
The men (or women) for the job Before the Second World War, on mainly mixed farms, the farmer or his shepherd, assisted by other work colleagues, would normally have done the shearing. The skill would have been passed on from father to son or worker to worker until, in the years between the two World Wars, County Councils gave attention to training and courses of instruction began to be given in farm crafts. The certificate shown here was awarded by the Devon County Agricultural Committee in 1937 to my father, Eddie Beer, for sheep shearing by machine and gaining first prize at the end of the course competition. Later in the last century, contract shearing became the scene on many farms, with individually trained shearers or teams travelling from farm to farm to
harvest the wool. Many of these were and still are trained by the Young Farmers Club movement which holds courses and competitions to hone the skills of its members. Other, bigger competitions are held at Britain’s summer agricultural shows and often attract competitors from overseas, many showgrounds having purpose-built shearing pavilions.
Volumes could be written on sheep shearing but I would like to end with a personal perspective. I learned to shear during my pre-university practical year at Umberleigh Barton, well known as the current home of the North Devon Show. There we worked with three or four shearers and one man catching and tying wool.
The modern contract shearing teams are a common sight in the southern hemisphere, with many in operation in Australia and New Zealand, which typically include three or four shearers and a wool packer, travelling from farm to farm.
One year, at the start of the summer vacation, I had a 'hairy' experience shearing at East Barton, Horwood. Having gone to work in a long-sleeved shirt, I borrowed a pair of scissors from the farm kitchen and shortened the sleeves for comfort. Unfortunately, whilst shearing, the frayed sleeve edge caught in the crown wheels of the flexible drive and began to act as a tourniquet on my upper arm. Luckily my uncle, shearing next to me, noticed the crisis and quickly pulled my control rope to stop the machine just as the material tightened around my bicep. Lesson learnt – wear a singlet!
Fleeces were traditionally tied for packing into large bags to be sent for grading, using either 'wool cord' or the fleece itself. However, around the 1990s the rolling of fleeces became the order of the day, but as always the wool crop was treated with care to achieve good prices. Fleece competitions are very popular at the shows and a widely known flock-master, exhibitor and judge, Albert Cook of Filleigh (shown here with a champion fleece), is renowned for his skill at producing fleeces of the highest quality and winning numerous awards. Albert is also well known as a shearing judge, having officiated at the highest levels.
Top: Certificate of merit awarded to E. Beer in 1937 for attending a course of instruction in machine sheep shearing at Alverdiscott and for winning first prize in the course competition. Above right: Albert Cook with champion fleeces, by Albert Beer. Two images right: Russel Cowling. Below: Russel's father Nigel Cowling.
Exmoor Summer 2013 19
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Young Farmers' CLUBS NEWS COMPILED by Ellen Cowling EDITED by Cindy Cowling
The Young Farmers have been busy, here’s some of the things they’ve been up to...
West Group Speaking Competition West Group Young Farmers comprising five YFC clubs from West Somerset took part in the prestigious speaking competition at the Moorland Hall, Wheddon Cross last November. The Junior Public Speaking (12-15 years) was won by Cutcombe YFC, which included Mark Matravers, Kirsty Howieson and Tara Hernaman-Wood. The Senior Brains Trust competition, held on the same evening, saw a large entry of members whose task it was to debate a choice of three topics, one of them rural. Wiveliscombe YFC, including Pippa White, Mark Jones, Genevieve Burns and Ed Jones, took the top slot, with Kingsbrompton YFC being the runners-up. Craig Rawle, West Group YFC Chairman, thanked the judges and wished competitors good luck in the Somerset YFC finals.
A trip to Westminster Young Farmers’ Clubs members recently met top politicians and rural policy makers during a visit to Westminster. Members from across the country visited the NFU Parliamentary office in Westminster and spoke with the Rt Hon Sir Jim Paice MP.
Young Farmers had a chance to voice their concerns over the future of school farms and their importance to young people as well as school YFC clubs. Other topics of discussion included Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) Reform and promoting the farming industry. The opportunities and impacts of current and future environmental schemes and livestock issues were also discussed. Young Farmers were encouraged to be advocates of their industry and the National Federation of YFCs (NFYFC) by speaking to the public, MEPs and MPs about farming and the countryside. The NFU’s Senior Parliamentary Adviser Matt Ware also gave a thorough overview of the organisation’s lobbying activity and members were encouraged to make contact with parish, county and district councillors as well as their MPs. Charlotte Johnston, from Cawthorne YFC in Yorkshire, said: "It was really useful to pick up a few tips on how to lobby local MPs and how to promote agriculture to the wider public from the team at NFU."
Weekend in Weymouth Fifteen hundred YFC members from Devon, Cornwall, Gloucestershire, Wiltshire, Dorset and, last but not least, Somerset, gathered over a weekend in early March this year, to compete in events ranging from Junior and Senior Member of the year, after-dinner speaking and ballroom dancing, to rugby and netball. Other events included a rural affairs debate, ten-pin bowling and sand-castle building! Highlights included Williton YFC member, Steve Hawkins, being presented with the ‘Best Actor Award’ and James Hooper (Wedmore YFC) winning the Best Speaker award.
‘Drive It Home’ update Young Farmers, road safety experts and rural road users joined forces on 14 February for an online discussion on rural road safety as part of the NFYFC’s campaign, ‘Drive It Home.’ The forum sparked debate on issues such as the hazards of driving on rural roads and ways to improve road safety. Another topic included how to change young rural drivers' attitudes, with inexperience and over-confidence being identified as key problems. NFYFC Chairwoman, Milly Wastie, tweeted, ‘Rural roads not racetracks, flowers at the roadside says it all.’ And Farmers Weekly magazine tweeted ‘NFYFC does many fantastic things. The “Drive It Home campaign” is one of the best.’ If you would like to find out more about the Drive It Home campaign, you can visit the Somerset YFC webpage, or follow the campaign on Facebook or Twitter using the #driveithomeyfc.
Rally, rally, rally, rally … OK, I am not supposed to mention us hosting the Somerset County rally on 11 May 2013 at Nunnington Park Farm, Wiveliscombe, too many more times. However, in addition to the more serious classes, I can’t wait to read the winner of Class 10, ‘A Limerick: There once was a Young Farmer that went green... '. You can read the winning entry in the next issue! Please send your YFC diary dates, news, stories, pictures and info to: ruglandsfm@yahoo.com The deadline for the autumn issue YFC page is 30 June 2013.
Above centre: YFC members visiting Westminster. Above right: YFC Junior Public Speaking winners Cutcombe YFC with members Kirsty Howieson, Mark Matravers and Tara Hernaman-Wood.
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PROFILE
Julian Gurney WORDS by Jeanette Baxter PHOTOS by Andrew Hobbs
WORDS by Jennette Baxter PHOTOS by Andrew Hobbs
22 Exmoor Summer 2013
Profile
"I
strimmed and cut two to three times a year, many areas are too steep for tractors so the maintenance work is done by hand.
A head injury in the mid-1990s meant that Julian had to take several months off work and it was during his recuperation that he started to volunteer with the North Devon National Trust at Watersmeet for one day a week. As he grew stronger he took on more work and realised that this was what he really wanted to do as a career. He was taken on as a full-time paid warden in 1995 and in 2005 was appointed Area Warden for the National Trust West Exmoor Property – some 4,000 acres of steep wooded valleys, farmland and coastal heath.
The West Exmoor National Trust property has had a guardianship arrangement with the West Exmoor School Federation and works regularly with Lynton, Parracombe and Kentisbury primary schools. "This is a really enjoyable part of our job," says Julian. "We keep it simple and fun, introducing children to their local environment through nature walks and farm visits. This arrangement has been going on for over 30 years, so many of the children now comment that their parents used to go on walks with the National Trust.”
"Volunteering was a great introduction for me and it is still a good way to get into working for the National Trust," says Julian. "We have a number of local volunteers who help us every year. It’s also ideal for people looking for post-academic ‘getting your hands dirty’ experience too."
The rangers also get involved in National Trust Working Holidays and each year they run an interesting range of holidays from the Bunkhouse at Countisbury. Guided walks and fun days for families in the school holidays are another aspect of the job.
fell into this job but I liked it so much I’ve stayed for 18 years," says West Exmoor National Trust Head Ranger Julian Gurney.
Julian was brought up on Exmoor and knows the area very well. He is married to Lynne, whose family have lived in the area for generations, while Julian's family opened and ran the Exmoor Bird Gardens (long since sold on and now known as the Exmoor Zoological Park) and he has fond memories of roaming the countryside. "We took the beautiful scenery for granted then as it was all we knew," he reminisces. "I remember walking home from the village with the lads on cloudy nights and the darkness was total. You couldn’t see a hand in front of your face. I found myself in a ditch on more than one occasion," he laughs. "But on a clear night the stars seemed to go on forever. There was no need for a torch." Little has changed; the area was recently designated the first International Dark Sky Reserve in Europe, and only the second in the world, due to its very low light pollution. Based in the Heddon Valley, Julian meets with his National Trust team early each morning to discuss the issues and plan for the day. After deploying his workforce – currently made up of three full-time and three volunteer rangers – it is time to catch up with outstanding letters, emails and phonecalls. "A big part of my job now is to liaise with partner organisations such as Exmoor National Park Authority, the South West Coast Path Association, Natural England and the Environment Agency. It is really important that we work together to make our resources go further." The Forestry Commission is a key partner too, as the property overseen by Julian includes over 1,000 acres of woodland. "We have a woodland plan and carry out an annual tree work survey but this does present us with a few challenges. Thinning and controlled felling can be quite tricky: some of the wooded area is almost vertical in places!" Hard manual labour comes with the topography. With a network of over 50 miles of footpaths, which need to be
'Escaping' from the office means checking ongoing projects and a regular programme of Health & Safety Walks to ensure that the footpaths are fit for purpose, and that gates, bridges and signs are all well maintained. Julian can often be seen accompanied by extra National Trust ‘worker’ Louie, a rescue dog who cannot believe his luck! One of Julian’s personal favourite walks is along the East Lyn River from Watersmeet to the farming village of Brendon. "It's beautiful here whatever the season, and especially colourful in the autumn. The only sound you can hear is that of the river, it is so peaceful. You can often see grey wagtails, dippers, butterflies, brown trout, salmon and even otters which, although still elusive, are beginning to reappear in greater numbers along the river." The West Exmoor National Trust Property spans from County Gate to Lynmouth and Woody Bay to Combe Martin. With its deep river valleys and high sea cliffs it includes some of the most remote coastal paths in the South West. "There is a wide variety of seabirds that breed in the area and you may also be lucky enough to see peregrine falcons or the occasional red kite that pops over from Wales. In the summer porpoises and dolphins can sometimes be seen off Heddon’s Mouth, Woody Bay and Foreland Point." Besides working as Head Ranger, Julian sits on a number of committees including the Lynton & Lynmouth District Council, the ENPA and the Exmoor Access Forum, which discusses controversial access issues in the area. He is also on the committee for the small and charming Lyn & Exmoor Museum. Staffed by volunteers it has over 1,000 exhibits from the town’s past, and is situated in the oldest house in Lynton. "I am incredibly fortunate; I live and work in an extraordinary place. Exmoor is more than a beautiful landscape; it is a way of life. I can think of no other place I would rather be."
Below: Julian chats with other members of the Exmoor team.
Exmoor Summer 2013 23
Small Lives that Shimmer The dragonfly, the ladybird & the scorpion fly
WORDS & PHOTOS by Jane A. Mares
O
n a warm June night, hidden among the rushes of the mire, a birth. More precisely a rebirth, a metamorphosis, for the life emerging from the dark water is a dragonfly nymph and it has already passed three years submerged in the marsh. A thin drizzle falls in the small hours, bridging two elements, as if to ease the creature’s passage. Dawn finds him beaded with cloud-water, half way up a flowering rush. Beside him, still gripping the plant stem, a hollow brown skin swings in the wind, the ghostly mould of his former, cast-off existence. For many hours he hangs motionless, his huge gob-stopper eyes fixed and glassy. A double pair of long, transparent wings hangs from his thorax; they are crumpled, flaccid, shadowing the vertical line of his narrow abdomen – a pose unique to the teneral, or waiting stage. As blood flows through the hair-fine network of veins, his wings stiffen, spreading into the characteristic horizontal position of an adult dragonfly at rest. Gradually, his colours deepen to blend with shady water, sunlight through green stems. At mid-morning on the third day he lifts off. Perhaps that is the true moment of transformation, from water naiad to aerial imago, from a drab creature bound to skulk among silt and mud to a being of sunlit space. His wings flash silver in the light: never again will they shine with quite that pristine delicacy. Yet he flies unhesitatingly, with an expertise honed over a vast expanse of time, for he is a southern hawker, Aeshna cyanea, of the order ‘Odonata’, and the bodies of his ancestors lie in rock deposits of the Permian, 250-280 million years old.
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PHOTOGRAPHS Insects, left to right insets, above: The southern hawker dragonfly with its larvael skin; ladybird on yarrow, an amazing creature which, when in peril, can ooze a yellowish blood from its knee-joints which contains several bitter alkaloids, caustic chemicals that smell and taste repellent; the female scorpion fly on goosegrass in summer. Second inset in run of four: Mayweed in a gateway near Old Cleeve. Main image: Bug-hunting country – a flower-filled lane on Exmoor with red campion and bluebells. Left: A likely spot for dragonflies at Badgworthy Water.
Exmoor Summer 2013 25
Small Lives that Shimmer
Summer noon on the moor, when the sheep have retired into the shade and even the birds have fallen silent. That is the moment to look for ladybirds.
PHOTOGRAPHS Main image: Ladybird on budding Mayweed. Top, insets: Seven-spot ladybirds hunting their prey on a nettle leaf and a spear thistle. Right: The swallow brood require a constant supply of insects. Facing page, from top: The southern hawker dragonfly nymph (larvae) living his underwater life; his empty larvael skin (exoskeleton) after his final moult before adulthood; the southern hawker in its teneral stage, here with wings vertical; ladybird larva on clover; the male scorpion fly loves robbing spiders' webs like this one complete with an unfortunate damselfly – he gives his finds to the female as a courtship gift; male scorpion fly.
26 Exmoor Summer 2013
There were dragonflies before there were dinosaurs. A prototype cast a shadow over the swamplands of the Carboniferous, coursing the humid air when the coal seams were forming. Meganeura monyi boasted a 70cm (27in) wingspan – almost a match for a hobby, the summer falcon of the moor, arch slayer of present-day dragonflies. They have shrunk in size, the dragons of the air, but retain an aura of menace, as though still attuned to the stark, primordial world of the earth’s dawning, as yet unsweetened by the fragrance of flowers, unsoftened by the music of birds. The hawker catches his first prey, a mosquito, and eats it on the wing. Later, he flushes a caddis fly from cover, entraps it in his dangling forelegs, and carries it to a clump of sedge. While his sharp jaws slice and chomp, his great compound eyes, able to detect movement 40 feet away, are constantly on the watch. Even predatory insects can become, in an instant, prey for some larger hunter. Stillness is one form of protection, but when life is brief, inaction itself has a price. Soon the hawker must seek a mate. But before that he must establish a suitable territory where she may deposit her eggs – in the reeds of a lake margin, by a stretch of backwater or shady pool – and patrol it relentlessly, fighting off all rivals. Already the flowers of the bog asphodel are opening across the moor, marking spring-head and damp hollow. By the time those yellow stars turn to orange seedheads the hawker will be old and battle-scarred, weary as a stag at the end of his final rut. But for now the future is open and the world is wide; with a tinsel rustle of wings Aeshna cyanea whirrs away through the June sunlight. A pair of swallows chase playfully above the farm, spilling a sweet chatter of song, joying in the blue and buoyant air of July. Then they swerve away over the pasture, resuming their tireless hunt after food, for their brood of five are growing apace and to fledge even one chick requires some 200,000 insects. The flash of speeding
wings sends a fly cowering behind a plant stem, where a riot of growth has sprung up in the damp field corner. He re-emerges hesitantly, drifts feebly upward on dark-mottled, translucent wings and settles in a tangle of goosegrass. His mahogany brown eyes are set in a fierce, beaked face and his rear end curls up into a threatening claw, whence his name: scorpion fly. But his belligerent appearance is misleading. That large red pincer is only for holding a mate, and the long beak or rostrum is used to feed on carrion and nectar. He belongs to the Panorpidae family, wily opportunists and scroungers that dine on bird droppings and will filch from spiders' webs – then use the stolen meal as a courtship offering. He waves his long, delicate antennae, scenting the air, for he is on the trail of a female who is poised on a nettle leaf, only yards distant. Silently he wafts closer. But he has no gift, and so she ignores his advances, slipping away into dense cover. She will not be long alone. Scorpion flies, like dragonflies, are ancient inhabitants of the earth, long practised in the art of continuity. Indeed, they are considered to be ancestral to all the two-winged flies, and possibly the earliest pioneers of plant pollination. A family of tom tits are working along the hedge that divides the water meadow from the ripening cornfield. "Zee, zee, zee... " – nothing silences for long the insistent cries of the youngsters, though they are fed bugs, flies, aphids, spiders, caterpillars. Only the shiny, high-backed beetles in the flowering Mayweed are spared. They are sevenspot ladybirds, and their very conspicuousness is a deterrent, for red and black are nature’s warning colours. When in peril they can ooze a yellowish blood from their knee-joints that contains several bitter alkaloids, caustic chemicals that smell and taste repellent. Although poisonous to blue tit chicks, some birds eat them with no ill effect – sparrows, blackbirds, cuckoos. Frogs and toads relish them. They are snatched by dragonflies, stalked by tiger beetles, ambushed by assassin bugs, carried off by robber flies. Yet some escape, to thrive and multiply, appearing as bright as buttons among the white petals of the Mayweed, climbing the great burdock by the gateway, creeping along the green spines of spear thistles. They are kin, having hatched five weeks ago from small batches of skittle-shaped eggs hidden on the underside of leaves. The little slate-grey larvae immediately seek out the nearest colonies of blackfly, already blighting the young shoots and stems of several hedgerow plants. For three weeks they do little but eat, and moult, and eat some more, fattening on 30-40 aphids a day, until they are ready to pupate. In its first hours as a beetle, the seven-spot lacks spots: its elytra or wing-covers are a plain, pale yellow. Like a secret code, it requires the heat of the sun to develop the beauty of its true colour and pattern. After a few days of summer warmth, the new generation can be distinguished from their parents only by their richer shade of orange; generally they produce the familiar number of spots. Not all species are as reliable. Instead of a pair of black spots on a red coat, the two-spot may emerge with six red spots on a black coat. Nor do they all have a predilection for aphids. The ladybird with the most spots (24) and the longest name (Subcoccinella vigintiquattuorpunctata) is a vegetarian; the small, yellow and black 22-spot lives on mildews. As the year wanes, however, one and all begin to scout for a place to hibernate. Some sleep in grass tufts or mossy beds under tree-roots. The two-spots are often secret house-guests, cramming into window-seams. They collect in garden sheds; squeeze into log-piles; huddle under stones. How deep they hide is said to foretell how sharply the cold will bite. Seven-spots can survive high on the moor, protected by glycerol in their blood which prevents ice crystals forming – their own type of antifreeze. In a mild season 90% will come through safely, though few live to see a second winter. Yet favoured sites are used again and again, a legacy transferred down many generations. How their location is passed on remains an enigma; perhaps they are guided by scent-markers. Ladybirds’ eyesight is so poor they may almost be considered blind; they assess their surroundings by touch, taste, sound, scent, and by variations in light and temperature. The insect world is one of sunlight shadowed by mystery. The little six-legged creatures that appeared around the Silurian, 410-440 million years ago, now outnumber all other species of organisms combined. They are the building blocks upon which the pyramid of life is based. A million have been recorded, yet it has been estimated that seven times that number remain unknown, unnamed. Theirs is still a largely undiscovered, uncharted country and to learn its secrets you must move as silently as sunlight, wait as patiently as stone. It begins at your feet. Tread carefully.
Cookery School We have built an intimate cookery room at The Culbone, which replicates a home kitchen. The sessions mix demonstration, practical experience and a real social experience. The emphasis is on being comfortable and having fun with the best local Exmoor produce.
01643 862259
Perched high up on the moors between Porlock and Lynmouth, The Culbone serves the very best locally sourced produce, cooked to order by international Executive Chef Jack Scarterfield and his team. Surrounded on all sides by Exmoor National Park, the beautiful countryside provides a bountiful natural larder for Exmoor’s highest and most recently renovated restaurant with rooms.
The Culbone, Porlock Minehead TA24 8JW
www.theculbone.com
E x m o o r – W h e r e E a s t M e e t s We s t
Our Mediterranean style LUNCH Menu is available for those preferring a lighter and more Western meal Our Thai Set Lunch and full A la Carte Menu are still available Visit our Website for further information Lunch: 12 noon-3pm Dinner: from 6pm TAKEAWAY MENU AVAILABLE
26 High Street, Dulverton
28 Exmoor Summer 2013
OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK Tel No. 01398 323397 website: www.tongdam.com
T
here’s a lot to look at inside the Hood Arms: horse bits tacked to the old beams that criss-cross the ceiling; oodles of hunting gear scattered about, including whips, horns, various items of clothing and a couple of great big worn leather saddles over the fireplace, while in the side-room opposite the bar billiards table there’s a massive stuffed boar’s head. And as if to provide comic relief to all these serious artefacts, several bronzed bedpans hang on the walls. The Hood is certainly not subtle when it comes to celebrating country sports, which, let’s face it, still remain pretty popular in this part of the world. There’s also a direct honesty in the way these relics are displayed to the world, almost a breath of fresh air when you consider how some pubs go all out not to offend people and present a bland, almost corporate, face to customers. Elsewhere, dotted about, stand framed photographs of hunting folk in and out of the saddle, some of them long-ago portraits of those who once hunted these hills but now enjoy a quieter pursuit beneath the spreading elm of a country churchyard. But what I found most intriguing was a collection of vintage photos detailing a pursuit once common out here: glatting. In this quartet of photos, which I estimate date from the 1920s, folk (some of them incongruously wearing plus-fours) are down on the beach poking sticks under rocks, accompanied by sleek black labs. In the final snap they stand there proud, holding up the objects of their hunt: conger eels. Years ago, glatting was a way of combining a bit of sport with something for the table. Ten years ago I went out glatting with an elderly chap from nearby Blue Anchor; he seemed the last in the line and bemoaned the fact that no one wanted to do it anymore. These photos are more than just curios; they are a vital record of the area’s vanished past. But in the here and now, it’s Friday lunchtime in this comfortable former coaching inn that lies on the coastal road, equidistant between Bridgwater and Minehead (there’s been a hostelry here since 1689 and it was called the Chough & Anchor until 1832). The satisfied murmur of drinkers and eaters drifts through the air as they raise a glass or a knife and fork to celebrate the end of the week. On one table opposite the bar,
a group of ‘ladies who lunch’ are gathered for a birthday celebration; on another, an elderly chap leafs through his copy of The Times with a plate of beer-battered haddock and chips in front of him. Friends who have met for a bite and a pint occupy two of the armchairs that surround the log burner with the gravitas of a professor addressing his students. All is well in this self-contained universe of the pub. The menu is a robust selection of pub favourites, such as the aforementioned fish and chips and honey and mustard-baked ham, egg and chips, joined by the likes of a harissa-spiced lamb burger, trout served with sweet potato purée or smoked haddock, baby leaf spinach and Applewood Cheddar creamy rigatoni (fresh fish and game dishes also feature in the evening). They all looked delicious but we plumped for the antipasti sharing platter, which featured a range of cured meats, cheese, rocket salad, various dips and warm ciabatta, alongside a bowl of chips. It was a good decision: the hummus, chutney and tapenade dips were homemade and full of flavour and acted as perfect consorts to the meat and the cheese (though one of the cheeses did taste a little bland). The salad was fresh and its dressing zesty and zingy. As is the case with so many pubs these days, I was disappointed that the chips were not home-cut and cooked, but seemingly straight out of the oven. It was a delightful lunch nonetheless which sadly left us too full to investigate the pudding menu – this included chocolate and mint terrine and passion fruit crème brulee. Another time perhaps.
The Hood Arms is a very unpretentious inn that is confident about itself. It’s comfortable, has a pleasing interior, excellent food and drink choices and is welcoming to both locals and passers-by. As for drink, the Hood Arms is in the Campaign for Real Ale’s current edition of the Good Beer Guide, which means that those in search of excellent beer should be happy. There were three beers on at the bar, including one of my favourites, Otter Head, but this being lunchtime and Otter Head being 5.8% abv, I plumped for Exmoor Gold, a sprightly beer that rightly aroused my appetite. Cider drinkers in search of local produce will be happy with Rich’s, while for those who love the grape
Eating Out
The Hood Arms, Kilve WORDS by Adrian Tierney Jones
there is a well-picked selection of crowd-pleasers. I was particularly impressed by the way the wine list was divided into various sections, a device that I guessed would be of immense aid to the wine novice: categories included ‘dry, herbaceous, or aromatic’ for white and ‘juicy, medium or fruity’ for red. The Hood Arms is a very unpretentious inn that is confident about itself. It’s comfortable, has a pleasing interior, is excellent in its food and drink choices and welcoming to both locals and passers-by. And when you do stop by don’t forget to look at the glatting photos – they represent a piece of fascinating West Somerset history. The Hood Arms, Kilve 01278 741210 www.thehoodarms.com
Exmoor Summer 2013 29
TASTE OF EXMOOR
Herb Farms WORDS by Mel Roach
T
he Organic Herb Trading Company celebrated its 30th birthday last year. Based in Milverton, they are a true organic success story as leading UK suppliers and producers of fresh and dried herbs, spices and preparations for the medicinal and culinary herb trades. They regularly supply Neal's Yard Remedies and other herbalists as well as makers of natural dyes, cosmetics, bakeries and the alcoholic drinks industry, providing flavouring herbs for gins and absinthes. They are also at the forefront of organic herb processing, specialising in blending and cutting herbal teas and offering comprehensive milling, grinding and powdering services. On site, their own herb field is stocked annually with roughly 80 species of medicinal and culinary herbs, all grown here from the ground up. Previously the site of an old dairy farm, work began on the neglected, brambly plot in 1984, and the herb field now flourishes over two acres of raised beds. The site also houses two beehives and has become something of an informal hedgehog retreat, with five spiny residents moved in and more to come. The high plant diversity ensures a succession of flowerings throughout the growing season, encouraging butterfly species and all manner of airborne feeders. Throughout the year, the herb field plays host to a plenitude of beaked and webbed, winged and hairy creatures, all eager to take advantage of the ample nectars and pollens. “The insects here are phenomenal,” says Field Manager, Sarah Weston. “We have everything you could imagine: different bees, lacewings, ladybirds and more.” Sarah has been looking after the herb field for coming on four years, and describes her work as extremely satisfying. One of her favourite plants to grow is elecampane, a daisy-family herb known for its medicinal properties in ancient times. It is a rewarding plant for any grower, effortlessly producing a multitude of substantial downy leaves and sun-rayed heads with a camphor-like scent. I can well imagine the scented year in the herb field; early summer hints of
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sweet violet, hawthorn blossom and elderflower, then woodruff, meadowsweet and balm, tailed by the earthy, pungent, wafts of valeriana in autumn. The great majority of the herbs grown in the field are native to the UK and so quite accustomed to our unreliable climate, but in 2012, in the “horrible, constant rain” Sarah advises the battle against rabbit and slug had to be stepped up a notch, by deploying ferrets, with a debatable degree of success. Alongside our stalwart indigenous plants, some non-native species also thrive, such as Chinese rhubarb, echinacea, poke-root and orris root – a favourite flavouring ingredient of gin-makers. “Herbs are amazing,” Sarah enthuses. “They are very generous and giving... from this tiny seed, in time, you have a beautiful, useful plant.” On the more domestic side of things, two Exmoor herb growers in East Quantoxhead have demonstrated that you don't need great tracts of land to be a successful producer. Herby4, aka Andy Rock and Rachel Jarrett, grow a range of traditional and exotic potted culinary herbs. Additionally, they produce home-made, home-grown pesto and a range of apple juices using apples sourced from local orchards. Around 30-40 varieties of herbs are grown in just two modest polytunnels on farmland a stone's throw from their home in the village. Herby4 herbs, as their website testifies, are not 'supermarket' herbs. The plants are naturally grown in biodegradable pots, nourished with water from a nearby spring and use no artificial chemical fertilisers or herbicides. The former, by comparison, are grown by the thousands, factory-style, in giant indoor nurseries. In my own experience, they are sickly, insubstantial things which have a tendency to die a sudden, mould-infected death on the kitchen windowsill. Andy and Rachel believe it to be a great pity that so many people only experience fresh herbs this way. “People don't realise how basil can really look,” says Andy excitedly – his strong basil plants will grow into over 3ft tall
Taste of Exmoor beasts, when allowed. Herby4 plants have only known real sunlight and the speckless air of the Quantock foothills; they have been allowed the nobility of what it means to be a plant. Andy and Rachel began growing about eight years ago with experimental early efforts under cloches expanding into the productive little nursery that stands today. Produce is sold throughout the spring and summer on stalls at Minehead Farmers' Market and Bristol Farmers' Market, as well as to a number of shops in Bath. Apple juice is sold locally in Williton and Bicknoller and potted herbs are also sold online through eBay and direct through their website, www.herby4.co.uk. The range of culinary herbs on offer is quirky; traditional cooking favourites grow alongside bronze fennel, Vietnamese coriander and an intriguing range of flavoured mints; pineapple, lemon, chocolate and even eau de cologne mints are usually available in-season. The basil crop produces a surplus when harvested in mid-summer, this is turned into fresh pesto in small batches and sold at the farmers' markets where it has proved to be extremely popular. Staying true to the theme of interesting flavours, traditional pesto, using vegetarian parmesan, is offered up with a sun-dried tomato variety and a heavenly-sounding lemon-basil and sorrel flavour. Andy and Rachel's year begins with nursing infant plants in the shrill of February, when the polytunnels crank slowly back into life. Rosemary stands firm against the chill season and young mints, resilient in potlets, wait for their moment in the sun. When these plants have flown through the spring markets, the buzz of summer trading continues apace, until the quieter, shortening days of apple season. At this time, Andy and Rachel get busy again, harvesting apples for their juices. Noticing that apples were going unpicked in a number of local orchards, they made varying arrangements with owners to collect and juice them,
which has been very successful. They are always interested to hear from local people who may have unpicked apples, whether an orchard-full or just a couple of well-laden trees. In addition to straight apple juice, they produce three flavoured varieties; 'Generously Ginger', 'Beautifully Beetroot' and 'Chaider' – a chai-spiced apple juice which, I am told, tastes like mulled cider – so it surely must be a fine thing. After the Christmas hubbub, in the quiet cold of deep December, Andy and Rachel like to hibernate, or rest in warmer climes for a few weeks before gearing up for the next year's growing. As any grower knows, the new season creeps into old winter slightly, but urgently; it never stops. All plant people tend to love what they do, because it's virtually essential for any degree of success. Much of the passion at Herby4 is clearly derived from a love of good food and good flavour, as Andy attests: “We need to persuade people that fresh local produce is preferable to something that hasn't been grown slowly or made carefully”. I leave Herby4 with some apple juice and a new-found liking for Vietnamese coriander – it's hotter, with a more powerful flavour and looks utterly unlike coriander as most of us know it. I leave impressed at what can be achieved with two polytunnels and a bit of industriousness. I am reminded of Sarah's words at the Organic Herb Trading Company, where two acres produces such an abundance of fresh material – plants are indeed unboundingly 'generous', and nothing short of 'amazing'.
Find out more: www.organicherbtrading.com and www.herby4.co.uk If you are an orchard owner or otherwise have a surplus of apples and would like to chat to Herby4 about juicing, you can contact them by email at: info@herby4.co.uk or by calling 07876 747578 or 01278 741419.
Feverfew flowers (courtesy OHTC)
Cornflower (courtesy OHTC) Andy Rock in the polytunnel at Herby4. Calendula on screens (courtesy OHTC) Herb field in bloom at the Organic Herb Trading Company (OHTC;
Yarrow (courtesy OHTC)
also pictured on facing page)
Exmoor Summer 2013 31
THE SWAN The Swan is set in the beautiful historic town of Bampton. Situated in an area popular with ramblers and cyclists and well known for its hunting, fishing and shooting. The pub has recently been renovated to a high standard with a solid oak bar giving it a contemporary yet traditional feel, it has the original fireplace and bread oven dating back to 1450. The atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming. Serving traditional pub food, fine wines and real ales all at affordable prices.
pub classics such as sausages and mash, cod and chips, pies, grilled rump steak and simple baguettes with a great choice of sweets to tempt. We have two comfortable double rooms and a twin room for bed and breakfast. All are en-suite with flat screen televisions, Wi-Fi, Ipod docks and tea and coffee facilities.
The Pub has just been awarded We have a passion for the use of local produce and create some real 4 stars from The AA.
Station Road, Bampton, Devon EX16 9NG T. 01398 332248 E. info@theswan.co www.theswan.co
The Hood Arms
01278 741210
TA5 1EA at Kilve 路 TA5 1EA
info@thehoodarms.com www.thehoodarms.com
FIND US ON THE A39 - Between Bridgwater & Minehead
The Hood Arms, Kilve, West Somerset. TA5 1EA.
32 Exmoor Summer 2013
RECIPES
The Delicate Flavours of Sunshine
Cucumber Gazpacho
Straight from the vine, cucumbers have an elusive green flavour and perfume that are quite unlike anything else. They bring back the smell of summer greenhouses from my increasingly distant childhood. Serves 4
Ingredients 4 large cucumbers (about as long as a forearm) sea salt flakes and black pepper 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 stick celery, finely chopped 1tsp ground cumin small pinch crushed chilli flakes 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 125ml Greek yoghurt 1 squeeze lemon juice 100ml extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for sprinkling a few small mint leaves
Method Peel the cucumbers, cut them in half lengthways, then scoop out the seeds with a spoon. Keep back one quarter of a cucumber and roughly chop the rest. Place in a colander and sprinkle with 2tsp salt. Toss together, then leave to stand for 20 minutes to rid the cucumbers of some of their bitterness; the salt will season them at the same time. Tip into a sieve and rinse under the tap. Mix the rinsed cucumbers with everything except the mint leaves, and whizz in batches for a few seconds until everything is blended. Check the seasoning – remembering that things taste less salty when they’re chilled. Add a squeeze more lemon, if you feel it needs it, then put in the fridge for 2 or 3 hours to chill. Ladle the soup into bowls. Cut the remaining cucumber into small cubes and scatter a few into the centre of each bowl, before adding a grind of black pepper and a few extra drops of oil. Scatter a few mint leaves over the top.
RECIPES by Lucas Hollweg PHOTOS by Tara Fisher
Thank you to Lucas Hollweg and HarperCollins for allowing us to use these recipes from Lucas' book Good Things to Eat. Lucas, who is from Nettlecombe in West Somerset, is food writer for the Sunday Times Magazine.
Exmoor Summer 2013 33
Strawberry, tarragon and soft goat's cheese salad
Tarragon’s aniseed flavour makes it a good partner for strawberries. This simple combination of sweet and salt works as a first course or even as a pud with savoury leanings. Serves 4
Ingredients 400g strawberries 2 small handfuls of tarragon leaves 125-150g soft, white, rindless goat’s cheese (the sort that is often sold in tubs in supermarkets). You could use cow curd or goat curd if you can get it; Philadelphia would also work 2tbsp white wine vinegar 2tsp caster sugar sea salt and black pepper extra virgin olive oil
Method Slice, halve or quarter the strawberries as the mood takes you and arrange them decoratively on a large plate or four small plates. Scatter the tarragon leaves sparsely amonstg the fruit so that they form scrolls of green. Mix together the sugar and vinegar, season well and sprinkle some of the mixture over the top – you may not need all of it. Add a few blobs of the goat’s cheese, a splash or two of olive oil and a sprinkling of black pepper before serving.
34 Exmoor Summer 2013
Spaghetti with West Country Crab & Mint Crab is one of the flavours of the British seaside. although this dish takes its inspiration from Italy, the sweet flesh IS lifted by the bright notes of lemon, chilli and herbs. Serves 4
Ingredients 350g 125ml 2 handfuls 2 cloves 2 pinches 350g
spaghetti extra-virgin olive oil, plus 3tbsp for frying coarse white breadcrumbs garlic crushed chilli flakes crab meat (ideally half brown/half white) sea salt and black pepper juice of 1 lemon and half the zest 4 big handfuls watercress 2 handfuls mint leaves, torn
You want about half the crab to be brown meat, so it’s a good thing to make with a ready-dressed crab (no added mayonnaise and breadcrumbs, preferably, though neither would do much harm here).
Method Cook the pasta, following the instructions on the packet; add lots of salt to the water. While it’s bubbling away, heat 3tbsp of olive oil in a frying pan and stir through the breadcrumbs, garlic and chilli over the heat for a couple of minutes until golden brown. Don’t let the garlic or crumbs burn. Keep to one side. Season the crab meat well. Drain the cooked pasta, then gently stir in the crab, along with half the mint, the lemon juice and zest, and the 125ml olive oil. Finally, toss through the watercress, pile into bowls and sprinkle with the breadcrumbs and the remaining mint leaves. A glug more oil and a squeeze of lemon at the table wouldn’t be a bad idea.
Tomato tart with basil & goat's cheese Serves 4
Recipes
Ingredients 2tbps 2 medium 2 cloves leaves from 4 350g 25g 150g 2 handfuls 5-6 ½tsp
olive oil red onions, thinly sliced garlic, crushed sprigs of thyme decent puff pastry, preferably all-butter parmesan, grated goat’s cheese basil leaves, torn ripe medium tomatoes, sliced about ¼cm thick caster sugar salt and pepper
Ingredients
Method Preheat the oven to 220°C/gas mark 7. Heat the 2tbsp oil in a large frying pan. Add the onion, garlic and leaves from 2 sprigs of thyme, plus a pinch of salt, and cook over a gentle heat for about 15 minutes until the onion is soft and sweet. Roll (or unroll) the pastry to give a 28cm square. Place it on a large baking sheet and use the tip of a sharp knife to score a line all the way around, about 1cm in from the edge. Don’t cut all the way through; it’s just to form a rim for the tart. Prick the centre with a fork. Cook in the oven for 5-10 minutes, or until it rises and starts to brown. Remove from the oven and flatten the centre of the pastry with your fingers. Scatter the parmesan over the base, then spread the softened onions in a layer over the top. Break the goat’s cheese into small bits and scatter evenly over the onions, with half the basil. Season well, then arrange the tomato slices on top, overlapping them slightly. Sprinkle with the sugar and the remaining thyme, and season well, particularly with salt. Add a splash of olive oil and return to the oven. Turn the temperature down to 200°C/gas mark 6 and cook for 25-30 minutes more, or until the pastry is crisp and golden and the tomatoes have softened. Remove, add a splash more oil and leave to cool for 15 minutes. Eat warm or at room temperature, scattering the remaining basil over the top before serving.
try A good British airdried ham such as Denhay as an alternative to parma or Serrano & Look out for British buffalo mozzarellas. Serves 4
Ingredients
4 8 2-3 x 125g small handful
Method
Raspberry sorbet with a hint of basil
ripe peaches slices of air-dried ham buffalo mozzarella, drained mint leaves extra-virgin olive oil sea salt and pepper
Slice the peaches, removing the stones, and arrange them on a plate. Drape the ham among the slices, then tear up the mozzarella and tuck it in. Season, scatter over the mint and splash with olive oil.
Peach, air-dried ham & mozzarella salad
200g ¼tsp 40 large 500g juice of 1
caster sugar natural vanilla extract basil leaves raspberries lemon
Method Put the sugar and vanilla in a large mixing bowl with half the basil leaves. Pour over 200ml boiling water, and stir until the sugar dissolves, then leave to stand for 10 minutes. Put the raspberries in a blender or food processor with the lemon juice. Measure out 300ml of the sugar syrup and strain onto the raspberries. Blend to a pulp, then sieve well, until only the seeds are left; remember to scrape any purée from the underside. Chill well in the fridge, then churn in an ice-cream maker, or still-freeze. To do this, put a strong metal bowl or container in the freezer to chill. When the sorbet mixture is ready, pour it in. Cover and place it in the coldest part of the freezer (often the freezer floor). Freeze until the outer rim has solidified and the centre is still liquid. Remove and quickly beat to a uniform slush with a hand-held beater or whisk, then return to the freezer. Beat again after a further 1½-2 hours, refreeze, then beat once more after 1½-2 hours more for the smoothest texture. Return to the freezer to firm up. Chop the remaining basil leaves into tiny pieces, discarding any stalks and ribs, then stir in until well distributed. If you’re using an ice-cream maker, after churning, scrape into a container, cover and place in the freezer for 1-2 hours until it reaches a scoopable consistency. If frozen solid, transfer to the fridge for 15 minutes or so before serving.
Exmoor Summer 2013 35
Come and see our new look riverside lounge & restaurant Now available for weddings and functions.
Beef, Pork & Lamb direct from the farm.
Keep up with events on our Facebook page search ‘The Anchor Inn at Exebridge’
Beef boxes, Half lamb, Half pig or mixed boxes in a range of sizes. Individual cuts available phone to discuss. Order by phone, website or from Farthings Farm Shop Local delivery & national mail order
We take pride in our stock that is raised and loved at Kendle Farm. Please take time to create divine dishes.
Pauline, Rob, Tim & Nicky Kendle Farm, Exmoor National Park
Dulverton, Exmoor National Park
www.kendlefarm.co.uk
www.exmoor-farm-shop.co.uk
01643 851 298
01398 323 878
Well-Renowned Wholefood Shop O informed nutritional advice O amazing range of food, supplements & bodycare
•
Therapy Rooms O top-quality complementary therapists O warm, light & airy rooms
•
Vegetarian Café O real food prepared daily O comfortable lounge area O art space
•
A TO P D E S T I N AT I O N I N M I N E H E A D ! t 01643 706 101 e enquiries@toucanwholefoods.co.uk 3, The Parade, Minehead
www.toucanwholefoods.co.uk
36 Exmoor Summer 2013
01398 323433
www.theanchorinnexebridge.co.uk
Time for Devon Wine Lists Everywhere! YEARLSTONE V I N TAG E B R U T as recommended in Decanter May 2013 “restrained fruit on the nose, very focused and precise with lots of secondary aromas� and in La Revue du Vin “A beautiful example of English fizz - crisp and lively, floral & honeysuckle aromas... great value for money...� Tantivy Dulverton, Winsford Stores and direct from the vineyard. Yearlstone Vineyard, Bickleigh EX16 8RL
www.yearlstone.co.uk
Perfect Celebration!
Tel 01643 821 439
www.spearscross.co.uk
WORDS by Roger White, Yearlstone (www.yearlstone.co.uk)
N
otwithstanding the 2012 deluge, the progress of English wines in the last year has been remarkable. You can hardly open a paper or magazine, or a wine website or trade publication, without a eulogy to England appearing. Take this from Berry Brothers & Rudd in October last year. They went on record in the Independent..."The quality (of English wine)... stands up to the rest of the world and, in the case of some sparkling wines, exceeds its rivals." The newspaper asked "Is English wine now exceeding the quality of French?" and returned the answer: yes. "Start with scents of hay, blossom, wild flowers and cut grass and flavours of elderflower, apples and pears for the whites and strawberries, raspberries, honey and fresh bread for reds and you are just some of the way there." By contrast, in 2007 the top wine critic Jancis Robinson wrote: "English wine is far from a joke", but by 2010 she was writing that "English wine gets serious." Last year she moved up another gear: "English fizz grows up." So how are we doing here in Devon? We are, after all, a county which prides itself on a passion for food and local ingredients. Well it’s patchy. Top marks go to the wonderful Clovelly Estate, which launched its own Devon wine list last year, and soon found that customers liked them so much they were accounting for close to half of all wine sales! A handful of other long-term supporters remain committed, such as the Toucan CafÊ-Bistro in Bampton, The Flying Pickle in Tiverton and now The Anchor Inn, Exebridge. They are all places to sample our own.
Pop in for low everyday prices, great special offers and friendly local service.
01398 331403
39 Brook Street, Bampton EX16 9LU
The
Black Venus Inn
Liz, Marc and family welcome you to the Black Venus Inn, situated in the beautiful village of Challacombe, on Exmoor. Historic 16th century beamed Inn Excellent home made food using local produce Food served seven days a week throughout the year Beer garden and large car park Open all day during school holidays Challacombe, Barnstaple, Devon EX31 4TT
Tel 01598 763251 www.blackvenusinn.co.uk
New fans include the lovely Hotel Endsleigh on Dartmoor, stocking Yearlstone rosÊ and in Brixham a great fish restaurant, Number 15, has worked out that our crisp, aromatic dry whites work better with local seafood than anything from the other side of the planet. But the old snobbery still exists. Without naming them, there are plenty of top restaurants in Devon who still refuse to believe local wines are good enough or popular enough to offer alongside their compulsory Pinot Grigios and Proseccos. But as more and more people drink Devon wine, and begin to demand it (the new upmarket wine merchants in Crediton, Grape & Grain, hardly opened the doors before customers were pressing them to stock Yearlstone wines), the idea of restaurants offering a Devon wine list must spread. After all, there are by my reckoning at least 50 Devon wines to choose from and a high proportion of them score very well at the major wine competitions (Decanter, IWSC, UKVA). If you are open to the idea of a Devon wine list then the time to start might well be the next Devon Wine Week in late May. Even though we are desperately short of stock, Yearlstone will be hosting trade tastings in the run up to the 7th Wine Week and our 2011 rosÊ will be on special offer. Now even the Mayor of London has turned on to English wine: "Most people of my generation have grown up thinking that there is something slightly bonkers about drinking English wine," he noted, before picking up a bottle in his local supermarket. Boris’ verdict: "It’s terrific!"
Exmoor Summer 2013 37
ENVIRONMENT
The Bulworthy Project WORDS by Mel Roach PHOTOS by Andrew Hobbs
H
enson's Wood is located about a mile from Rackenford village. Once culm grassland, the 12-acre site was planted with Sitka spruce in the 1950s, and was then clearfelled and replanted in 1995 with native, broadleaved species. Pete and Anna Grugeon had been searching for land from which they might make a sustainable subsistence living when, six years ago, they found and fell in love with Henson's Wood. It was scrubby; bracken and brambles were everywhere and remaining spruces shaded out native trees, but the couple could see it had good potential for charcoal production, perhaps our oldest forest craft. Using sustainable, continuous cover and coppicing methods of woodland management, Pete and Anna have lived at Henson's Wood for the past four years now, producing artists' and barbecue charcoal as 'The Bulworthy Project,' an experiment in low-impact living and working. Charcoal burners have to live near the site of their kilns in order to supervise the overnight burn at regular intervals. Pete and Anna's makeshift home of two joined-up caravans occupies
38 Exmoor Summer 2013
just a tiny corner in the 12 acres, which is predominantly given over to young woodland. Situated near enough next to the kiln, the caravan-house is powered only by wind and the sun, plus a nominal amount of gas, occasionally, for cooking. Although they do not aim to be 100% self-sufficient, they forage as much food as possible; from the wild garlic in spring to plentiful mushrooms in autumn and they are fond of a bit of oak leaf wine. There is a forest garden area containing loganberries and fruit trees among other things, which is also home to 15 hens and a pair of cockerels. Pete and Anna set about learning how to make charcoal before they moved onto the land, but continued training and perfecting their skills for some time after. Pete says: “We were trained by three different people using different techniques of production; it took us about six months before we were happy with the yield and quality.� The charcoal is produced in a circular kiln, 180cm wide by 120cm tall, containing inlets and outlets with which to control the burn. Traditionally, in our forests, itinerant charcoal
cooling, the kiln is opened and the charcoal has to be graded – brown ends are discarded, large lumps are broken up and anything too small is sifted out. The charcoal is then packed directly into paper bags ready for sale. Pete and Anna's woodland contains predominantly birch, oak, cherry, hazel, crack willow, ash and spruces and I wonder about the merits of different woods for charcoal. Pete enlightens me that all hardwoods are good; beech, hornbeam, oak, etc., but the less dense woods, such as willow, have the benefit of producing charcoal that lights very easily. A bag of Bulworthy Project charcoal consistently contains a mix of different woods. There are numerous ecological reasons to buy home-grown charcoal. The UK buys around 60,000 tonnes of charcoal per year, around 92% of which is imported, primarily from East Africa, South East Asia and South America. A large majority of it has been produced from biomass, either cultivated or wild, which has been harvested unsustainably, sometimes illegally. In these largescale harvesting operations, coppicing and pollarding are not practised and some producers are known to unearth whole tree root structures to feed the industrial kilns. Charcoal production in the developing world is often a principal cause of deforestation in regions where woodfuel decline is also a growing concern.
The coppicing cycle helps to revive woodlands as habitats by encouraging biodiversity – Anna and Pete maintain an ever-growing species list which heralds the return of the pearl-bordered fritillary butterfly and the grasshopper warbler.
burners built kilns of earth and turf around the stacked wood. Today, metal kilns are generally used. Good yields take practice – if the burn is too fast, you get more ash than charcoal, closing down the burn too quickly results in 'brown ends' which are basically part-charred pieces of wood. Pete is happy that, after four years, their technique is pretty well honed, as Anna explains: “At first, we would open the lid [of the kiln] and not be sure what we would find inside.” These days, it's no longer a 'surprise' to find they have a kiln of top-quality charcoal. The correct loading of the kiln is crucial to the success of the burn which must be controlled throughout the process. The controlled burn involves making sure the kiln is burning evenly before gradually reducing and eventually closing down the air supply, to give the slow burn necessary to produce charcoal. The slow burn is supervised intermittently overnight for the next 18 hours or so. The colour of the smoke changes when the process is complete. The chimneys are then removed and the kiln completely sealed and left to cool for 24 hours. After
The Bulworthy Project is among a number of UK-based charcoal producers making charcoal in tune with the environment, on a small scale. In pockets, our woodlands are coming back to sustainable, useful life. The coppicing cycle helps to revive woodlands as habitats by encouraging biodiversity – Anna and Pete maintain an ever-growing species list which heralds the return of the pearl-bordered fritillary butterfly and the grasshopper warbler. Work has also been done and is ongoing to restore and preserve 1.5 acres of remnant culm grassland on the site. Spruce and bracken have been removed, a marshy area has been created by re-wetting and green hay has been used to reintroduce the culm plant species, which have shown a general increase. Rackenford Primary School has use of the woodland once a week throughout the school year as a forest school facility and the project has received a Devon Wildlife Trust gold award for working for the benefit of the environment. “You do have to dedicate your life to what you do on your land,” Pete says. "We have managed to take a parcel of land no-one else had been able to make a living from and make it work for us." The path has been steep at times, however, and Pete admits that the process of realising their aim has been physically and psychologically challenging. They have been blessed along the way with the backing of the 'warm village' of Rackenford. Before moving onto the land, Anna and Pete presented their plans to the parish council, advising them that they wished to produce charcoal in Henson's Wood and that they would need to site a mobile dwelling there. The community were already aware that Pete and Anna, who lived and worked in Bristol when they acquired the woodland, had been travelling to and fro to visit the land at weekends for some time. They showed themselves to be serious and dedicated and the Parish Council fully and unanimously supported the application. There followed a long and stressful, but ultimately successful, application process to the District Council. Current laws aren't yet up to date with the emergence of low-impact living as a viable lifestyle alternative and many similar small-scale projects are refused by planning authorities on the grounds of economic viability, despite being projects in subsistence living. After making their application, Pete
Exmoor Summer 2013 39
and Anna had a harrowing six-month wait for a decision. "That winter here, we were harvesting wood for charcoal, without knowing if were even going to be able to use it,” Pete recollects. Today, The Bulworthy Project is sailing; charcoal production is doing nicely at around 3,000 bags a year and, in addition to working, conserving and restoring their own land, Pete and Anna manage another woodland nearby and also find the odd bit of time to volunteer at Rackenford Community Shop. Charcoalmaking courses are run throughout the year and all manner of forest craftspeople run occasional workshops on site. This year, work begins on a timber-framed forestry workers' dwelling, for Smoking kiln during the burn. which they have just received full planning permission. Pete and Anna will continue to live off-grid in their new home, and forage as much food as possible. Their land will continue to grow and thrive with them, I have no doubt. They stand firmly by their principles of being able to live well by using less and protecting nature as far as possible. It is not an easy 'idyllic' life as many people might imagine; there is always work to be done and I speak with experience (and some bias) on the matter, having been 'off-grid' myself for several years now. It is a challenge and a joy all at once, but it is a good way to live and one which Pete and Anna not only believe should be accessible to anyone who really wants it, but that it is also a relevant and sensible way to live, given the limitations of our shrinking planet. “We believe that everyone is entitled to a decent standard of Pete sealing the base of the kiln. living. If the rest of the world is to become more prosperous and emulate a Western lifestyle, we need to develop a lifestyle which is more in balance with nature and achievable by the entire world. Living off-grid makes us more aware of the energy that we use. We have a comfortable twenty-first-century lifestyle without costing the earth.”
Get involved or find out more! The Bulworthy Project offers courses in charcoal production throughout the year; day courses and overnight courses are available and there is also a Charcoal Making and Blacksmithing course from 1-2 June, with Devon blacksmith Dean Aggett. More details can be found at www.bulworthyproject.org.uk. Other upcoming courses include: Beginners' Spoon Making with skilled green woodworker Sharif Adams on 25 May, Bow Making with Matthew Yung on 14 September and Green Woodworking with Peter Lanyon from 20-21 July. Information and booking Anna sealing the top of the kiln. details can be found on the website. Bulworthy Project charcoal is distributed by a workers' co-operative and is available from a number of outlets across Devon, Somerset and beyond. A list of stockists of both barbecue and artists' charcoal can be found on the Bulworthy Project website. You can also purchase Bulworthy barbecue charcoal online from www.hotsmoked.co.uk, the website of local, Stoodleigh-based company Hot Smoked. Below: Pete holding artists' charcoal, Anna holding barbecue charcoal.
Checking the kiln inlet using a mirror.
40 Exmoor Summer 2013
Over the hills and come to stay! DUDDINGS COUNTRY COTTAGES Thirteen 4-star holiday cottages sleeping 2-18 set in a stunning location in the Avill Valley. Indoor pool, tennis court, games room. Richard Tilke, Duddings Country Cottages, Timberscombe, Minehead TA24 7TB T. 01643 841123 E. Richard@duddings.co.uk www.duddings.co.uk
B AMPTON B ED & B REAKFAST
M A R S TO N L O D G E
C OA S T A N D C O U N T RY H O U S E H OT E L Beautiful, tranquil location with stunning coastal and Exmoor views. Spacious, en-suite rooms, intimate bar and restaurant, cozy firelit lounge, snooker room, free Wi-Fi. Parking. St. Michaels Road, Minehead, Somerset,TA24 5JP Tel: (+44) 01643 702 510 www.marstonlodgehotel.co.uk
RO C K VA L E H OT E L
AA 4-star. Close to Exmoor. Spacious rooms, free wi-fi, drying facilities, cycle storage. From £27.50pppn. Also Art Tuition and Painting Holidays.
Stunning views, comfortable beds and superb food. All the ingredients for a memorable holiday you will want to repeat.
Weston House, Luke Street, Bampton, Devon EX16 9NF T: 01398 332094 www.westonhousedevon.co.uk
Rockvale, Hollerday Drive, Lee Road, Lynton EX35 6HQ T. 01598 752279 E. enquiries@rockvalehotel.co.uk www.rockvalehotel.co.uk
T H E F OX
AND
GOOSE INN
A real country escape at Parracombe. Enjoy good food simply done and relaxed, rural comfort in timeless surroudings. Near Barnstaple, Devon EX31 4PE T. 01598 763239 E. info@foxandgooseinnexmoor.co.uk www.foxandgooseinnexmoor.co.uk
B& B
AT
BICKLEIGH CASTLE
W O O L H A N G E R E S TAT E Woolhanger holiday cottages provide luxury accommodation in the peace and tranquillity of the picturesque Exmoor National Park. Contact: Terri Burrough 01598 763514 Email: holidaycottages@woolhanger.com Website: www.woolhanger.com
H A RT N O L L H OT E L
R OYA L O A K F A R M Beautiful cottage in a pretty Exmoor village. Spacious, warm, sleeps 9. Enclosed garden, excellent walks, WiFi and a good pub nearby. Royal Oak Farm, Winsford, Minehead TA24 7JE T. 07813 026936 E. h.challis@live.co.uk www.royaloakfarmexmoor.co.uk
WINSBERE HOUSE
BED & BREAKFAST
Friendly 4 star B&B from £30 pppn with lovely country views. 10 min walk to Dulverton town centre. Short drive to Tarr Steps. Cycle Route 3 on doorstep. Free wi fi Winsbere House, Dulverton TA22 9HU T. 01398 323278 E. info@winsbere.co.uk www.winsbere.co.uk
A N S T E Y M I L L S C O T TA G E S Families,Walkers & Pets Let our cottages charm you, the whirlpool or woodburner warm you; find comfort, peace and quiet in this beautiful place. Anstey Mills Cottages, East Liscombe Farm, Dulverton,TA22 9RZ T: 01398 341329 E: ansteymills@yahoo.com www.ansteymillscottagedevon.co.uk
A MAZING VIEWS
AT
L ITTLE Q UARME
Unique accommodation set in cottages around the Castle courtyard. Spectacular views across the Castle gardens. Comfortable lounge, Sky television and free Wi-Fi.
A stunning boutique country hotel set in beautiful gardens in the Exe Valley. 18 luxury en-suite bedrooms. Award winning restaurant open to the public daily.
Cosy self-catering cottages - fully central heated. Perfect for families, dogs and walkers. Lovely gardens and grounds.
Tiverton, Devon, EX16 8RP Tel: 01884 855363 Email: info@bickleighcastle.com www.bickleighcastle.com
Hartnoll Hotel, Bolham, Nr Tiverton, EX16 7RA T: 01884 252 777 E. frontdesk@hartnollhotel.co.uk www.hartnollhotel.co.uk
Wheddon Cross, Exmoor National Park, Somerset T. 01643 841 249 E. littlequarme@btconnect.com www.littlequarme-cottages.co.uk
WO O D A DV E N T FA R M
YA R N M A R K E T H OT E L
T HE L U T T R ELL A RM S H OTEL A beautiful 15th Century Hotel with plenty of charm and character. We have 28 unique ensuite bedrooms many with original features and 4 poster beds. 32-36 High Street, Dunster, Somerset TA24 6SG T. 01643 821555 E. enquiry@luttrellarms.co.uk www.luttrellarms.co.uk
Quality farmhouse bed & breakfast accommodation situated in wonderful countryside. Four-course dinner available evenings. Heated swimming pool in the gardens. Roadwater, Somerset,TA23 0RR T. 01984 640920 E. info@woodadventfarm.co.uk www.woodadventfarm.co.uk
Reader Discount
£25 Discount per room (minimum 2 nights) 25-33 High Street, Dunster, Somerset TA24 6SF T. 01643 821425 E. hotel@yarnmarkethotel.co.uk www.yarnmarkethotel.co.uk
Exmoor Summer 2013 41
National Centre for the Folk Arts
at Halsway Manor Nestled at the foot of the Quantock Hills, Halsway Manor is the perfect place from which to explore the Quantocks, West Somerset and Exmoor. Our walking holidays – suitable for individuals, couples, groups or walking clubs – are led by friendly, knowledgeable local guides. A great way to discover this beautiful area! Halsway Manor – National Centre for the Folk Arts – is a grand old Somerset farmhouse, with a great hall, panelled bar and library, a ballroom, plus six acres of lovely gardens and grounds. We offer comfortable accommodation, good home-cooked food and a friendly welcome! For more information contact Halsway Manor on 01984 618274 / office@halswaymanor.org.uk. Halsway Manor, near Crowcombe, Somerset TA4 4BD Charity No: 247230 Company No: 849615
w w w. h a l sw ay m a n o r. o r g . u k
42 Exmoor Summer 2013
WALKING
Ilfracombe and points west WORDS & PHOTOS by Sue Viccars
I
’ve always had a soft spot for Ilfracombe. Not only is it an access point to Lundy Island – just about my favourite place in the world – on board (on occasion) the paddle steamer Waverley, or more usually MV Oldenburg, I also love it for its faded Victorian seaside resort-ness; despite attempts to drag the town into the twenty-first century, evidence of rather splendid late-Victorian development is still clear. Originally a market town and fishing port, it started to develop as a holiday resort from the 1830s, but the town and its population expanded significantly in the mid-1800s, further boosted by the arrival
of the Barnstaple & Ilfracombe railway in 1874. Ilfracombe may be a little shabby around the edges, but it also has a certain old-fashioned charm as well as a number of surprises (not least in the shape of Damien Hirst’s controversial installation, Verity, who/which hit the headlines last year – she is pictured on page 44). This walk, starting from the beautiful harbour under the gaze of St Nicholas Chapel and running west along the coast, encounters a good selection of them. This long but relatively easy route crosses The Torrs past striking cliff scenery to
reach pretty Lee Bay (the sheltered valley in which the village sits is known as ‘Fuchsia Valley’ on account of its luxuriant vegetation); then turns inland and loops across rolling farmland to regain the Coast Path. En route great views are gained of Ilfracombe’s unique and extraordinary Tunnels Beaches, accessed by six tunnels blasted through the slate cliffs in Victorian times. Top: Bathing pool on the Tunnels Beaches, covered at high tide. Centre, left to right: The path passes a pond at Lower Campscott Farm; low tide at Ilfracombe harbour; the bandstand at Ilfracombe. Courtesy Sue Viccars.
Exmoor Summer 2013 43
Walking
FACTFILE Map OS Explorer139 Bideford, Ilfracombe & Barnstaple Start Ilfracombe harbour SS 523478 Distance 9¼ miles (14.9km) Time 4½ hours Terrain Tarmac ways, undulating coast path and fields Dogs Under control at all times and on the lead on farmland Toilets At the harbour in Ilfracombe; Lee Bay Refreshments Plentiful in Ilfracombe; The Grampus Inn, Lee Bay (daily 11am-midnight); Lower Campscott Farm tearoom (Wednesday-Saturday, 1-5pm, seasonal)
Above: St Nicholas Chapel, on Lantern Hill, seen from Capstone Parade. Dating from 1321, it is said to be the oldest working lighthouse in the country and was home to John Davey, his wife and 14 children in the mid-nineteenth century. Courtesy Sue Viccars. Right: Damien Hirst’s controversial installation, Verity, who/which hit the headlines last year. Courtesy Liz Crawford. Bottom of the page, left to right: On the Coast Path in Torrs Park; bathing pool on the Tunnels Beaches; Lee Bay; Scabious. All courtesy Sue Viccars. 1 There are plenty of long-stay car parks near the harbour in Ilfracombe, so from whichever one you choose make your way to the junction of Broad Street and The Quay on the north side of the harbour. With the Sandpiper Inn on your right, and the harbour behind you, walk up Capstone Road (look out for a fingerpost sign and acorn, indicating the Coast Path). At the end of the terrace of houses on the right follow the Coast Path along Capstone Parade below Capstone Hill. Look right to see St Nicholas Chapel on Lantern Hill; dating from 1321, it is said to be the oldest working lighthouse in the country (home to John Davey, his wife and 14 children in the mid-nineteenth century!). The broad tarmac way leads around Capstone Point to meet the appropriately named Windy Corner, with views over the grey Devonian slate of Wildersmouth – one of the town’s five beaches – and the Landmark Theatre, which opened in 1997. Continue behind the beach towards the Landmark: look back to see Preacher’s Rock on the east side of the beach, from which ministers would preach to those
44 Exmoor Summer 2013
promenading along the seafront in Victorian times. 2 Immediately to the right of the Landmark, mount two broad flights of steps (look for an insignificant Coast Path sign on a parapet to the right), to pass the building on the seaward side. Continue through the top of Runnymede sub-tropical gardens; Ilfracombe Museum (below) was once the laundry of the old Ilfracombe Hotel (1897), which was demolished to make way for the Landmark. Pass through a gate onto a road and turn right. Just past a contemporary house on the left, look right for views over the amazing Tunnels Beaches: local entrepreneurs employed Welsh miners to hand carve tunnels to access the beaches and seawater pools beyond the slate cliffs. Where the road bears left downhill, keep along unmade Torrs Walk Avenue. 3 At the end follow signs right between houses, climbing gently. At a gate, head left as signed; after a few metres turn right on the Coast Path/Torrs Walk. (The next
section of the route crosses Torrs Park, as named on the OS Explorer: originally privately owned, access to walks – the Tors [sic] Walks – on this lovely section of coast once levied a charge of 3d!). Zigzag up the cliffs, gaining height all the time. Pass through a gate. The Coast Path is signed left, but turn right to climb to a fabulous viewpoint along the coast, west to Bull Point, east to Exmoor’s lofty coastal hills above Combe Martin. From the viewpoint, walk directly inland downhill to find a Coast Path post. Turn right, signed Lee. Keep ahead across open ground, craggy and broken and beautiful. Soon reach a split in the paths; take the broad path running nearest the sea, shortly passing through a grassy hedgebank. Continue uphill to cross a stile; keep ahead, soon climbing an obvious path to reach a track at a signpost. 4 Turn right on the Coast Path, eventually passing through a gate onto a tarmac path and dropping steadily towards Lee Bay between banks of wildflowers (largely fuchsias): on a hot,
Walking
Capstone Point
Based on Ordnance Survey mapping © Crown copyright: AM055/11
2
1
START
3 9
Torrs Park
ILFRACOMBE
4
Lee Bay
5
8 6 7 Lower Campscott Farm
8 Look out on the right for the entrance to The Link, and a public footpath sign, and turn right. Where the drive bears sharp right, keep ahead over a stile into a paddock. Walk up the field, crossing a fence at an obvious point, and continue through a gate/over a high hedgebank at the top of the field. Keep straight ahead over the next field; cross a high stile in the hedgebank and continue up the right edge of the next field. Cross another stile to reach a footpath junction; keep along the right edge of the next field. Cross a stile at the end and keep in the same direction to cross the brow of the hill, with the hedgebank now on the left. At the end of the field enjoy views of sea ahead, and pass through a gate/big stepped hedgebank.
WIN!
in a
Win a pair of walking boots & claim 10% off with Taunton Leisure
pair of b o
9 Turn right; turn left where signed onto the permitted path followed on the outward route through The Torrs, and retrace your steps along the Coast Path and through the town back to the from Taunt harbour. ots
eisure!
6 As the lane bears left, look right for a public footpath and track and sign to West Clayes. Walk down the track; turn left after a few metres (small yellow arrow) to cross the stream, pass a gate and enter woodland. Follow the path uphill, with a stream right. Eventually cross a stile into a field and keep ahead, initially parallel to a wire fence on the right. In the far right corner pass through a kissing gate, round a
7 Turn left up the drive, passing the campsite. About 50 metres later turn left across a stile in the wire fence. Bear right up the middle of the field, aiming for a stile in the centre of the high hedgebank ahead. Cross the stile, then another, into the next large field. Keep ahead, aiming for a metal gate between two big barns. Pass through, cross the yard and go through a gate onto a lane. Turn left, soon passing a couple of cottages on the left.
Walk downhill along the left edge of the next field, dropping steeply. Negotiate gorse bushes to pass through a kissing gate onto the Coast Path.
L on
5 Meet a lane at the bottom by the abandoned Lee Bay Hotel and turn right to descend to the bay. Follow the lane above the beach, taking the first footpath signed left to the car park, toilets and Lee village. Pass the car park entrance and follow a narrow path upvalley, eventually passing The Grampus Inn to regain the lane. Bear right, gently uphill, soon passing the extensively renovated Old Maid’s Cottage (there has been a building on the site since the seventeeth century, for many years associated with the poem 'The Three Old Maids of Lee'), Old School Craft Gallery (local Styles ice cream) and the Victorian Church of St Matthews and St Waldrede. Follow the lane uphill to leave the houses behind.
pond, and continue through a kissing gate onto the drive at Lower Campscott Farm (tearoom to the right).
W
sunny day it almost has a Mediterranean feel. If you don’t want to go down as far as the bay take one of the footpaths signed left to meet the valley road, or a small lane near the valley bottom, then turn left to rejoin the main route.
Log on to tauntonleisure.com/win for your chance to win a pair of waterproof, breathable Berghaus Expeditor AQ Hiking Boots – ideal for walking the beautiful landscapes of Exmoor and the South West Coast Path. As well as giving away these fantastic boots, Taunton Leisure will send entrants a free £5 voucher towards any Berghaus product they sell, either online or in their stores at Taunton, Exeter and Bristol. This is the perfect chance to make a saving on specialist outdoor gear ready for summer on the hills!
Exmoor Summer 2013 45
Outdoor fun at Arlington May-hem
27-31 May, 11am-3pm Family fun for everyday of half term Mon & Tue - crafting Wed - May fair with stalls, demonstrations and more Thu & Fri - outdoor adventures
Wimbleball Lake
Open farm
Near Dulverton
Sunday 9 June, 11am-4pm Meet our livestock and see how we manage our modest farm. Lots modest farm. of family Lots ofactivities family activities and crafts and tocrafts help you to help discover more, you discover plus funmore, competitions plus fun competitions with cow pats. with cow pats.
• Fun for everyone, multi-activity adventures on and off the water • Hire, tuition or bring your own • Tea rooms and campsite • Stag & Hen parties, WOWballs • Mountain biking and walking trails Follow the brown tourism • Climbing and high ropes courses signs to the Lake
01398 371460 www.swlakestrust.org.uk/wimbleball
The Lynda Cotton Gallery 46 Swain Street Watchet
Fine Art & Antique Dealers Restoration, Conservation & Research
Outdoor theatre: Sherlock Holmes
Sunday 30 June, 7pm The Pantaloons company present a devious tale of mystery of mystery and crime, see andifcrime, you can seeguess if youthe canculprit guess before the culprit yourbefore your sides sides split from split from laughing. laughing. For more events visit our website or to book call
01271 850296 www.nationaltrust.org.uk/arlington-court Registered charity No. 205846.
Nigel Murphy TRADITIONAL LIME BUILDING & RESTORATION Tel: 01984 639900 Mob: 07770 392739 www.nigel-murphy.co.uk SPECIALIZING -
Tel: 01984 631814 www.thelyndacottongallery.co.uk
L I M E WA S H I N G AND RENDERING Swain House offers the perfect combination of sea side energy, rural loveliness and coastal beauty that makes it just about the most perfect place to be...
12b Swain Street, Watchet, Somerset. TA23 0AB
Gallery and Artists’ Studio Paintings & Jewellery Ceramics & Woodcarving Special edition Artist’s Cards Stained Glass www.thelittlegallery.biz
46 Exmoor Summer 2013
01984 - 634298
SWAIN HOUSE BOUTIQUE B&B
48 Swain Street, Watchet, West Somerset, TA23 0AG Tel: 01984 631038 | stay@swain-house.com | www.swain-house.com
ExmoorAd.indd 1
12/10/2012 14:57
COAST
Salty Sea Dogs: The Watchet Liveaboards WORDS by Tony James PHOTOS by Andrew Hobbs
I
t doesn’t bother Wendy Cory that her living-room floor moves when the wind blows or that her bed can be 30 feet higher when she wakes up than when she went to sleep. She wouldn’t have it any other way. Nor, it seems, would Bosun, her deaf and somewhat irascible Jack Russell terrier, although a touch of rheumatism means that he can no longer manage a companionway ladder and climbs aboard through a porthole. There’s a clue here: boats. Wendy, a successful professional artist, broadcaster, tutor and judge on Channel 4’s Watercolour Challenge, has lived on the water for the past 15 years in Barbary T, a somewhat piratical-looking 52ft ex-Admiralty steam picket-boat, and for eight years it has been Wendy and Bosun’s cosy home in Watchet Harbour Marina. Just across the way, Rhian and Paul Childs squeeze past a set of torpedo tubes and a 22mm Oerlikon anti-aircraft gun, to the front door of their floating home. Gay Archer, the last surviving ex-Royal Navy fast patrol boat of its class, is a 75ft high-speed predator which Rhian and Paul bought as a derelict for a nominal £1 in 2004. They have since spent over £150,000 on its restoration, which meant selling their house and possessions and living in a caravan. Now, as well as a home, Gay Archer is a tourist attraction and floating museum.
Two profoundly different boats, two broadly similar lifestyles – Paul, Rhian and Wendy are among Watchet’s longestestablished liveaboards, a phenomenon that only became possible a decade ago when the town’s harbour became a retained-water,150-berth marina and boats could be tethered alongside pontoons, linked to essential services and sheltered from the wildest weather and from tides which are the second-highest in the world. Now over a dozen boats, ranging from a small oil-tanker to a retired Isle of Wight foot passenger ferry, and gleaming plastic motor-cruisers to a vintage yacht, are lived on full time in Watchet Harbour Marina as part of a unique water-borne community which enjoys the charm of nautical life but for the most part rarely ventures beyond the harbour wall. Given boating’s traditional macho image, it’s perhaps surprising to find that many liveaboards are pensioners, some afloat for the first time, who saw a boat as a logical way to downsize and cut costs and were attracted by the friendly, community spirit of the marina. "It’s like living in a seaside flat," agreed Ken and Marilyn Savory, welcoming us aboard Tortola, a gleaming, modern 38ft Bayliner
Exmoor Summer 2013 47
Top: Tim Greene on Fortuna III, a beautiful 30ft gentleman's yacht and the sister-ship of Arthur Ransome's Nancy Blackett. Above, left to right: Wendy Cory at home on Barbary T, a 52ft ex-Admiralty steam picket-boat; Ken and Marilyn Savory on board Tortola, their 38ft Bayline motor-cruiser; Rhian and Paul Childs in front of the torpedo tubes and a 22mm Oerlikon anti-aircraft gun which grace the deck of their boat Gay Archer. motor-cruiser which arrived in Watchet on a lorry a year ago and hasn’t moved since. Tortola is well capable of deep-sea cruising but the Savorys prefer to stay put. "We might have a trip to Wales some time if the weather’s nice," Ken said. "But to be honest, we’ve got everything we want here." Originally from Wales, Ken and Marilyn lived in France for 14 years. When they returned, bringing with them a French cat, they found house prices had rocketed and a boat seemed a sensible option. "We saw Watchet Marina in a boat magazine and it was everything we wanted," Marilyn remembered. "The cat likes it too. "There’s always something going on. It’s a lovely little place. The perfect retirement destination. You can get pretty well everything in the town, which is only yards away. Anything else you get online and have it delivered to the boat." On the next pontoon, another boat, which originally arrived on a low-loader a year ago, has yet to go to sea, but the owner, Tim
48 Exmoor Summer 2013
Greene, ashore due to ill health after a lifetime as a professional sailor, has plans to put that right later this year. After a career in the Merchant Navy and on patrol with Trinity House, Tim found Fortuna III in a sorry state in a muddy Essex creek and knew instinctively that she was something special. Indeed, Fortuna, built as a 30ft gentleman’s yacht in 1931, is sister-ship of Nancy Blackett, once owned by Swallows and Amazons author Arthur Ransome and is eligible for the Historic Ships Register. Tim misses the sea and after three years of restoration looks forward to taking Fortuna blue-water sailing, but you get the feeling that his wife Anne might take some convincing. So might the couple’s springer spaniel. "I love living here and everyone is so friendly," Anne said. "Fortuna’s cosy and convenient and she’s our home now. Just to take her out there" (she gestured towards the sullen grey sea) "would take an awful lot of packing up!"
Coast "In most cases, money has a lot to do with living afloat," said marina manager James Burnell. "Once you have a boat it’s considerably cheaper than living in a house – the average liveaboard 50-footer will be around £4,000 a year with services. Then of course there’s maintenance and upkeep, but you have that wherever you live. "We encourage liveaboards but a lot of marinas don’t, particularly the big corporate marinas on the south coast. Of course we don’t want the place filled with picturesque wrecks covered with washing-lines and bicycles and that hasn’t happened. We’ve got some interesting boats and it all makes Watchet more attractive to visitors and contributes to the atmosphere of the place. We have some interesting characters too!" He’s probably thinking of the family who share their modestlysized motor-boat with four rescue dogs, one deaf and blind. Or the gentleman who dressed up as Nelson on Trafalgar Day. Or the couple who live side by side in two boats hauled out on the East Quay. Or the man whose liveaboard boat, chocked up on the dockside, is snugly encased in a plastic cocoon. Wendy Cory says she was a casualty of inexplicable liveaboard prejudice, having to move her 100-year-old boat from Padstow when the Council abruptly evicted all residential craft. "I don’t see why there’s this prejudice against liveaboards by marinas when you allow so many people to live on canals." Wendy arrived in Watchet almost by accident. "Someone told me there was nice little marina. I have no plans to move, although we do go to sea from time to time. We went to the Cardiff food and music festivals last year. We’ve got a good crowd here and a nice community spirit. We have barbecues in the summer and social events.
HMS Gay Archer was in Royal Navy service less than 12 years on Cold War covert missions and submarine detection before she was sold out of the service in 1963 after being nearly sunk on two occasions, once when the ship she was moored alongside exploded. She also starred in the 1955 war movie The Ship that Died of Shame and escorted the Queen back to the UK from her 1954 Commonwealth tour. It took four years to restore the craft to her former glory, with a new deck, bridge, twin diesels, a central heating system, guns and torpedo tubes. She arrived in Watchet in 2006, her first voyage for 44 years. "It was a labour of love," Paul said. "But it was worth it. Now she looks virtually like she did when she was a fighting ship and she gets a great deal of attention. Many people have told us that visiting Gay Archer was the highlight of their West Country holiday." Today, while the museum with its galley, dining area and exhibition of Coastal Forces uniforms and artefacts, is ready for visitors, in the liveaboard accommodation, there’s still work to do and there are also plans for a floating warship museum of similar craft. What does Rhian think of her husband’s all-consuming love affair with old boats? She wasn’t telling, but the smile probably said it all. For more information on Gay Archer and opening times: Telephone: 07980 029938 Visit: www.p1041.org Email: gay.archer41@gmail.com
"Boats come and go, which is nice in a way because you meet new people, but we try to keep in touch with the friends we’ve made when they move on. I’m a water person and always wanted to live on a boat. I love the sea, the light, the movement and a lot of my paintings reflect my life on the water." Wendy says that having a big old boat doesn’t get any easier as you get older and she is now looking for something smaller and with less upkeep as a home for her and Bosun. "I will always have a boat. It’s a way of life."
"I’m a water person and always wanted to live on a boat. I love the sea, the light, the movement and a lot of my paintings reflect my life on the water." It’s also become a way of life, albeit a somewhat precarious one, for Paul and Rhian Childs ever since they first came across Gay Archer, derelict and ashore for over 40 years. "I remember building models of motor torpedo boats when I was a kid," Paul said. "As soon as I saw the real thing I knew I had to have it. It became a dream to bring a piece of Royal Navy history back to life." Paul and Rhian sold everything they had and gave up their jobs to devote their time and resources to the restoration of the boat the size of two double-decker buses and built in 1952 as the first of 12 Gay class fast patrol boats!
Exmoor Summer 2013 49
enquiries@countryknoleinteriors.co.uk www.countryknoleinteriors.co.uk 01823 352077
Suppliers of designer wallpapers and fabrics Colefax & Fowler | Osborne & Little | Jane Churchill Zoffany | Andrew Martin | Pierre Frey Made to measure handmade curtains | Blinds | Poles Furniture | Loose covers | Re-upholstery service 59 East Reach Taunton TA1 3EZ Parking available outside from 10am-4.45pm
Showroom open Tues-Fri 10am-5pm Now open Saturdays 10am-3pm
The Courthouse
The Clock Shop 101 East Street South Molton North Devon EX36 3DF
The Square, WIVELISCOMBE, Somerset TA4 2JT
Watch and Clock Repairer Specialist in the Repair and Restoration of Antique Clocks
Richard & Mary Werner Coffee Shop
Phone/Fax: 01769 579090 Mobile: 0777 6380546
richard@werner.fsbusiness.co.uk
Insurance Valuations
Jayne Pearce
Fabric & Curtain making service
Persian Carpet Specialist
www.courthouseinteriors.co.uk
Tel. 01984 629010 ❖ Open Mon - Sat 9.30am - 5.00pm
50 Exmoor Summer 2013
Handfinished Soft Furnishings • curtains, pelmets, blinds, loose covers and more • extensive range of fabrics to suit every budget • professional service from initial design to installation Established for 18 years 07837 718745 or Email info@jaynepearce.co.uk Visit www.jaynepearce.co.uk
☎
Stable Bungalow, Honeymead, Simonsbath, Minehead, Somerset TA24 7JX
INTERIORS
Swain House Boutique B&B WORDS by Jason & Annie Robinson
A
lmost a year ago to the day, we packed our bags and moved our lives from London to the Somerset coast. We’d stumbled across the little town of Watchet during a hunt for possible B&B accommodation for our wedding at nearby St Audries three years previously. The sun was shining, bunting was fluttering in the breeze and steam trains were pulling in and out of Watchet’s small and perfectly restored station. It was love at first sight. We bought a second home on Swain Street at that time and when the next-door bric-à-brac shop came onto the market as well a year later, we saw an opportunity to finally jump ship from our hectic lives working in the media in London and embark on a truly life-changing adventure. By the time we arrived permanently in Watchet our family had grown, with the arrival of our son Archie, and this had only served to further confirm our belief in what we were planning: to convert the shop into a boutique B&B and create a stylistically different overnight offering for the area. We worked closely with our architect to create four suites and a guest living/dining
Exmoor Summer 2013 51
Interiors
Stripping out the building led to rubble and then more rubble before the original features could begin to be restored – and in some cases revealed; among the secrets which the building threw up was a seventeeth-century well in the kitchen! area from the interior of the building, retaining the original Victorian shop front and as much of the exterior character as possible. We had an idea of the look and feel that we wanted and finalised this by piecing together an extensive ‘look book’ – compiled from two years of researched and saved images. We wanted a contemporary, rustic look with a high end, luxe design edge to it. No traditional florals, where possible natural finishes and materials, a simple, crisp, colour palette and, as we’ve both worked for years in design, tremendous attention to detail. We’d both travelled extensively with our jobs and stayed in some great and not-so-great hotels, so we wanted to create somewhere we’d want to stay in ourselves.
Building work ran for longer than expected, with a large team of builders on site every day. Having originally estimated four months, construction time nearly doubled, with the B&B finally opening in mid-August 2012. Along the way, the building threw up a few surprises, not least a seventeeth-century well in the kitchen! And there was an extraordinary amount of rubble, with 40 tonnes needing to be removed from the ground floor alone! We were lucky as we had some real craftsmen in the team and they shared our passion for achieving an amazing level of finish. The rooms are luxurious but uncluttered – nothing is fussy. This applies throughout, from the choice of artwork – wall-sized
W
WIN!
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Find out more at www.swain-house.com, call ntar y night f 01984 631038, email stay@swain-house.com or me follow Swain House on facebook and twitter (search @swainhouse). Everyone who registers a new 'like' for the Swain House facebook page during May, June and July will be in with the chance of winning a night for two at the B&B. Visit www.facebook.com/swainhouse
52 Exmoor Summer 2013
murals of details from Georgian paintings – to the most simple, beautifully designed slipper baths we could source. Quality was hugely important to us and we wanted that to be present in everything we chose for the interior. We hope that our future guests get as much out of our new-found paradise as we have.
COURTYARD ANTIQUES Est.1996
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ANTIQUE COUNTRY FURNITURE VINTAGE FURNISHINGS Showroom
Rock Cottage, Torre, Washford, Somerset, TA23 0LA Tel (01984) 641619 Online
www.courtyardantiques.net
COSWAY SOFT FURNISHINGS Handmade Curtains, Roman Blinds & Accessories Design Service Available Measuring Service Highly Experienced Maker Alterations Undertaken Friendly & Approachable Contact Sarah on 07701 062902 or schave42@gmail.com
www.coswaysoftfurnishings.co.uk
Pauls Carpets & Flooring
CARPETS • VINYL • WOODS Commercial & Domestic FREE ESTIMATES WOOD FLOORING SUPPLIED & FITTED Tel: 01884 257247 • Mob: 07989 303834 Bay H • Link House • Leat Street • Tiverton • Devon EX16 5LG
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Exmoor Summer 2013 53
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B R O M P TO N R E G I S near Wimbleball Lake
Visit one of the oldest sites on Exmoor, mentioned in the Domesday Book (1086)
Pulhams Mill Craft Centre (OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK)
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Mon-Sat 10-5, Sun 12.30-5
Tel: 01398 371366
W
hen going to the market, careful consideration should be given to choosing the appropriate method of sale to suit both you and your property. Most properties, particularly residential ones when the vendor is looking to move from one home to another, are sold by private treaty. A property is placed on the market, for sale at a quoted guide price, and potential purchasers are invited to submit and agree an offer with the vendor. An agreed sale can then proceed subject to contract, at a pace set by both parties. This can be particularly helpful if the vendor is taking time to find an alternative property. On the downside, there can be a long cooling-off period before a legally-binding contract is finalised and during that period a number of issues, such as survey, title, funding, and breakdown of chain can arise, leading to a sale falling through and the whole process having to be restarted. A sale by auction is of course final in that a legally-binding contract is created as soon as the auctioneer's hammer falls at the last bid, with a completion date set usually no later than four weeks from the date of the auction – and the purchaser will lose their deposit if they fail to meet this contractual obligation. This method is particularly popular with those selling properties which require renovation and there is an element of uncertainty as to how much a purchaser may feel they need to spend in order to improve the property. Other contenders for a sale by auction include properties with serious structural or legal defects, where there is a risk that under a sale by private treaty, buyers could keep withdrawing from an agreed sale due to these issues. Properties where there could be strong interest from ‘special buyers’ and, of course, properties where it can be difficult to predict the sale price, are also likely to be sold at auction. In order for an auction to be successful, there need to be a number of proceedable buyers available, rather than buyers who have properties yet to sell or who are involved in chains and who might therefore be taking a risk in attempting to purchase at auction. Again, an owner/occupier who sells by auction will also be under pressure to vacate their property by the completion date and this may not suit their particular requirements. Some potential purchasers are put off attending an auction because all legal work, surveys and finance arrangements have to be made beforehand and there is a risk that they may therefore incur abortive costs if they are not successful in purchasing the property. In a sale by informal tender a price is not stated but a guide price is given and offers are invited (in sealed bids) by a particular date. This method is often used where there could be serious local competition for a particular property (often sales of land). The vendor is able to consider offers received but is not at liberty to accept any offers, even the highest, before agreeing to a sale subject to contract. The accepted offer is not binding and, on acceptance of any offer, the transaction proceeds subject to contract in the same way as a sale by private treaty. Finally, as a general guide, sales by formal tender are very rare due to their complexity and are more commonly associated with sales of larger development sites.
Exmoor Summer 2013 55
PHOTOGRAPHER'S EXMOOR
Moor and More Birds Andy Stuthridge returns to the birdlife of Exmoor, this time venturing out of the woods and up onto the moor, heaths and beyond ADDITIONAL IMAGES: Sparrowhawk and Kestrel by Jack Clegg and Merlin by Mike Sherwin WORDS BY Trevor Beer Skylark (Alauda arvensis)
Common resident, passage migrant and winter visitor. Favoured breeding habitats are grassland, heaths, cereal fields and coastal marshes and dune stacks. A 2008 Exmoor survey found about 2,470 territories in Devon and Somerset combined. A slight decline along the edge of the moor may be due to increased sward height. Skylark (Andy Stuthridge)
Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis)
Common resident, passage migrant and winter visitor. A bird of upland moorland heaths, grassland, saltmarsh and coastal cliffs. Good numbers recorded annually. Breeds on Exmoor including Valley of Rocks, Trentishoe and Holdstone Down. Around a quarter of Exmoor's population of about 2,500 territories are in Devon, with the remainder being in Somerset.
Lapwing (Vanellus vanellus)
Rare resident, common winter visitor to estuarine habitats but not a bird of Exmoor other than on rare occasions when it may visit farmland, more to feed on passage than to breed. In 2010, I observed 30 in a field at Cloud Farm, Malmsmead, and a pair with three chicks at Six Acres.
56 Exmoor Summer 2013
Meadow Pipit (Andy Stuthridge)
Lapwing (Andy Stuthridge)
Photographer's Exmoor
Whitethroat (Sylvia communis)
Stonechat (Andy Stuthridge)
Summer visitor. A bird of open scrub and farmland with hedgerows and young conifer plantations. On Exmoor, mainly found in coastal habitats and moorland fringes, and now moving into heavily vegetated coombes; it is making a comeback following serious population crashes due to severe droughts in its sub-Saharan winter quarters, which had a devastating effect on its food supply.
Whitethroat (Andy Stuthridge)
Stonechat (Saxicola torquatus) Resident, its preferred habitat being rough areas of gorse, heather and bracken, with close-cropped grasses. A long breeding season from March to August allows for two or three broods, in turn allowing for recoveries from declines caused by severe winters. Exmoor population stable at this time.
Redstart (Phoenicurus phoenicurus)
Locally common summer visitor. It is usually found on Exmoor, often nesting in dry stone walls. The redstart is faithful to favoured sites year after year, mainly in wooded hill country and hanging oak woods around the coast and along the East Lyn Valley, in such places, for example, as Trentishoe, Martinhoe and Badgworthy Water, and along the River Bray below The Longstone.
Whinchat (Andy Stuthridge)
Redstart (Andy Stuthridge) Curlew (Andy Stuthridge)
Whinchat (Saxicola rubetra) Summer visitor and passage migrant and not uncommon on Exmoor, mainly on the Devon side of the moor. I find them breeding at South Hill near Malmsmead and on Chalk Water, Pixie Rocks near Challacombe and at certain coastal sites. Whinchats have been observed overwintering at Witheridge, Oare and near Breakneck Hole.
Red Legged Partridge (Andy Stuthridge)
Red Legged Partridge (Alectoris rufa) Resident with many artificially reared and released. Hundreds have been seen on the Exmoor fringe country but chicks are not common despite large-scale releases at Challacombe and in the Lower Exe Valley, from about 2003. I have seen adults with chicks near Swincombe Reservoir and on a farm at Exford.
Curlew (Numenius arquata) Scarce resident, winter visitor and passage migrant. Breeds sparsely on Exmoor with a slight increase noted on the Devon side. Bred recently at Porlock, Witheridge and near Wood Barrow. Chicks from successful nests often succumb to predation.
Exmoor Summer 2013 57
Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus) Summer visitor. Once common throughout Exmoor, the cuckoo is now in serious decline due to various factors related to: shifting breeding patterns affecting nest availability (it parasitises other birds' nests); changes in agricultural practices; its diet of hairy caterpillars and other insects diminishing; changes in its wintering quarters; and migratory challenges. It is still heard calling in parts of Exmoor including Pinkworthy (Pinkery), Challacombe, Malmsmead and Witheridge.
Ring Ouzel (Turdus torquatus) March to October visitor, the 'mountain blackbird' breeds sparsely on Exmoor in secluded coombes. Nests are similar to those of its close relative, the blackbird. It is quite aggressive when defending eggs and young against against any threat, including humans who approach too closely. Ring ouzel (Library image) Sparrowhawk (Jack Clegg) Cuckoo (Andy Stuthridge)
From top, left: Sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus) Resident and common raptor on Exmoor, now recovered from the drastic decline of the 1950s and '60s due to toxic organochlorine pesticides entering the food chain. Exmoor's well-wooded agricultural landscape is ideal habitat for sparrowhawks, particularly the lower-lying areas and fir plantations as breeding sites.
Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus) Kestrel (Jack Clegg) Merlin (Mike Watson)
Resident. Breeding sites include coastal cliffs, quarries, buildings, old nests of carrion crows – and kestrels will take to artificial nest boxes. Common across Exmoor in both counties throughout the year, seen commonly on farmland and in coombes, as well as at Valley of Rocks and similar rugged coastal habitats.
Merlin (Falco columbarius) Resident. Our smallest falcon with a few pairs still breeding on Exmoor in locations which are kept secret as egg collectors still seek it out. Small communal winter roosts of three to five birds occasionally occur in sheltered, low-lying areas favoured by flocks of small prey species. Merlins return to their – often traditional – breeding sites by March.
Buzzard (Buteo buteo)
Buzzard (Andy Stuthridge)
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Common resident. Widespread on farmland with broadleaved woodland and on coastal cliffs, moorland and in hill country. Buzzard pairs occupy and defend their nesting and hunting territories all year round, and are thus mainly sedentary. Numbers of 20-50 are sometimes seen feeding in newly-ploughed fields on earthworms, beetles and such. A good recovery has been made Wheatear since the huge declines caused (Oenanthe oenanthe) by myxomatosis during the Locally common summer visitor and 1950s and '60s. passage migrant. More a Devonian Right: Wheatear Exmoor bird but in decline since (Andy Stuthridge) 1978 according to RSPB and BTO surveys. Most breeding birds have migrated by mid-October, but while here during spring and summer dry stone walls are favoured as nesting sites. Habitat change with a reduction in grazing may account, in part, for their decline.
Photographer's Exmoor
Limited edition Leo Davey print
rint by L e o
p ird
ted-edition b mi
Reed Bunting (Andy Stuthridge)
ey Dav
Minehead artist Leo Davey kindly agreed to produce a special LIMITED artwork to accompany this latest collection of birds for Photographer's Exmoor. There are just 75 signed, limited-edition EDITION! Giclée prints on German etching paper available. Each measures 30x42cm and costs £65 including P&P. To order your copy, telephone Leo on 07816 151433 or email leo_davey@hotmail.com and delivery and payment can be arranged. The original painting is available, signed and framed, for £495.00. These limited-edition prints and many more of Leo's prints and originals are available from the Leo Davey Studio/Gallery, 3a Irnham Road, Minehead, Somerset TA24 5DL. Courtyard Framing in Friday Street, Minehead (01643 705648) and Churchgate Gallery, Porlock (01643 862238) are pleased to offer readers 10% off the price of framing this Leo Davey print (simply take your magazine with you into the framing shop; applies to this print only). Li
Reed Bunting (Emberiza schoeniclus) Resident and winter visitor. Present on Exmoor in areas with lakes and ponds, it has expanded its range into drier farmland in recent years, following arrivals first appearing in the 1960s. There were about 60 pairs on the whole moor during the 1990s and this rose to 206 pairs in 2008, suggesting recent successful breeding. Yellowhammer (Andy Stuthridge)
Yellowhammer (Emberiza citrinella) Fairly common resident and passage migrant. A largely sedentary species, juveniles rarely travelling over 20km from their natal area. A decline in recent years has resulted in a rather patchy distribution. It is very much a farmland-with-hedgerows bird, with winter flocks common, feeding on weed and other seeds. See more of Andy Stuthridge's photos at www.andystuthridgenatureimages.co.uk; see more of Jack Clegg's photos and find out about his photography at: exmoorphotography.zenfolio.com or pop into his shop in Porlock High Street. See more of Mike Sherwin's photos at www.mikesherwinphotography.co.uk.
Andy Stuthridge's first collection of bird photographs for Exmoor Magazine was published as 'A Walk with our Woodland Birds' in the summer of 2011, issue 55. This is available via our website: www.exmoormagazine.co.uk or on tel. 0845 224 1203. At that time, the following birds were included: Tree Creeper, Willow Tit, Nuthatch, Coal Tit, Chiffchaff, Willow Warbler, Greater Spotted Woodpecker, Redstart, Wood Warbler, Wren, Longtailed Tit, Blue Tit, Robin, Blackbird, Great Tit, Pied Flycatcher. Exmoor Summer 2013 59
Perfect for reading to children... Endymion Beer’s Family Page: Uncle Willow Explores Exmoor Underfoot
T
he very first thing my owner taught me about natural history was to pay attention to what I was walking on. Start there and it is easier to learn how species are interlinked to become part of an interesting bigger picture – our ecosystem.
With nose to the ground, I set out to do just that over wild Exmoor and my walk quickly became a fruitful adventure. We began by following a hedgerow and walked under a canopy formed by the windswept, lopsided hawthorn trees, or 'wind thorns' as my owner calls them. They are a stunning feature of wild Exmoor, the trees being forced to grow that way by the strong winds dashing across the moorland in exposed areas. As we walk beneath the trees two blackbirds dart out from the leafy canopy, noisily calling their alarm, to alight upon a nearby perch and watch us pass through their territory – they have a nest nearby. In the kerfuffle something lands in front of my feet. At first I think it is a sun-scorched hawthorn leaf, but then it walks off! Can’t be that then I decide. It is shaped like a heraldic shield. It is in fact a hawthorn shield bug. It has a distinctive triangular shape, is bright green with a red-brown hollow triangular pattern on its back (formed by the forewings) and another, Cross-leaved heath.
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slightly darker, solid triangle on its lower end. These insects feed mainly on the leaves and fruit of hawthorn trees. About 20 eggs may be laid by the female on the undersides of leaves. They only take about nine days to hatch. They grow by moulting and there is one generation a year. There are lots of them here and I rather like the flat little creatures – gentle souls. The sun is burning away the early-morning mist. Being close to the ground I have a good sense of it swirling upwards to evaporate. Visibility is becoming clearer ahead now. It is quite fun to snort down a rabbit burrow and snuffle around the hidey holes of woodmice, bank voles and such as we reach the small wooded area. I happen upon a scentless, forgotten, disused burrow, one that I know well. It is rather pretty with male fern growing beside it. There is something very different about this – it glows inside, especially during the winter months! What causes such a twinkling glow? Glow worms? No – it is the wrong habitat for them. I put my head to one side for a better view – there are only a few glittery flecks now. The burrow is home to a fern-like luminous moss called Schistostega (osmundaceae) pennata. The seed capsules will have ripened in spring and in this relatively undisturbed location it has a good chance of spreading. How it glows is complicated but it is due to the refractive structure of the threads, especially in the early stages of growth. Basically the glow is caused by the moss' ability to reflect even the faintest ray of light. Reflecting light allows it to grow in dark places where few other plants can compete. This glittering, fairy-light moss is commonly called 'goblin's gold', luminous moss and luminescent moss by the people of Europe, China, Japan, Siberia and North America, where it also grows. I have found it in at least three places on Exmoor; all were down disused rabbit burrows – magic. If I had to describe Exmoor with just one colour it would be purple for the swathes of lovely moor grass, and colonies of ling and bell heather found here. I love heather when it is humming with bees and other insects in summer. I love too the way the ground springs back up underfoot when walking over wetter parts of the moor, which dry out somewhat during the summer months. These are generally areas of peat
and sphagnum moss. Sphagnum moss is interesting because it was used in the treatment of wounded soldiers during the First World War because it is very absorbent and has antibacterial properties which help the healing process. It was also used for nappies and one WI lady told me that it could be washed and returned to the wild after use but it was much more abundant back in wartime days. Today sphagnum moss is sometimes harvested and dried out for use in garden nurseries. As it is a peat moss, it can be harvested on a sustainable basis and managed so that regrowth is allowed. This should not be confused with the harvesting of moss peat which is detrimental to the environment. Once the peat is stripped from the moor, there is little or no chance of recovery. Further along I find that the River Bray has many rather lovely miniature waterfalls. I love the way the water tumbles over the stones. Nearby I discover a smart-looking little plant called sundew. This is round-leaved sundew. The leaves form in a rosette at the base of the plant and have long stalks which are succulently bright green with red sticky hairs. The plant is able to catch and digest insects that are Ling heather attracted by the sticky dew drops they mistake for water at the end of each hair. Midges aim to lay their eggs in the ‘water’ but become stuck fast, while the leaf folds in to envelop and later digest it. Days later the leaf will unfold to shed the indigestible remains of the insect. The long-stalked, slender, un-branched flower stems have spikes of white flowers that may be erect or arched at the top – you can find the flowers in July and August. Sundew is commonly called 'flycatcher'. The plant likes to grow on wet heaths, moorland and in sphagnum bogs and was once used to treat sunburn, freckles and whooping cough. As I am called away from the sundew, I watch my owner chasing, searching for a bird, looking skywards all the while – and here’s me still with my nose to the ground. We pass by an area of dense bracken. I notice how it is just starting to turn that lovely fox-red, russet hue as it begins to die. It is so wonderful for wildlife, especially for the shelter it provides. Red deer often lie up in bracken but there are none here today. I haven’t come across any ground-nesting birds yet either on this walk, but they may be about and we must be vigilant so as not to step on any by mistake. Time to snuffle on home. This is Uncle Willow signing off. Woof! Optional task: Using the little illustrations in this article, describe ling, bell heather and cross-leaved heath in your own words – to help you identify them in the future.
Bell heather
Exmoor Summer 2013 61
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ACTIVE EXMOOR
A Stroll Around Somerset Cricket WORDS by Stephen Edmonds MODERN PHOTOS by Andrew Hobbs
Top: Stogumber Cricket Club, 1918. Left to right, back: P. Tuckfield, Revd Crouch, P. Hutchings, B. Hyett, T. Sparks, T.L. White, L. Cornish, G. Gresswell, C. White; front: J. Tuckfield, T.J. White, J. C. White, A. S. Hyett, G. Sansom. Courtesy Stogumber Cricket Club
I
n spite of the weather’s best efforts over the past 12 months, cricket is very much alive and well in the area, and you will not have to travel far this summer to find a match in progress, with league fixtures taking place every Saturday from May until early September. Friendly games spread themselves across an even longer period, taking place from late spring until early autumn as the weather and daylight allow, predominantly on Sundays and weekdays. Although there is a record of cricket being played in Somerset in the 1770s, ‘organised’ cricket on any sort of scale has been around only since the end of the nineteenth century, with one notable local cricket club, Stogumber CC, having started life in 1875. Since then, albeit for a two-year break during the First World War, and a period when they played their cricket at Williton, but under the Stogumber CC name, the game has been played at Stogumber ever since. For nearly 100 years, games took place on ‘the Nap’, one of the highest vantage points in the village. Due to its exposed location, a short-sleeved pullover was required even on the warmest of days. Despite the lack of facilities, including no mains water,
pitches at the Nap were regarded as some of the quickest and best in the area. The fact that more runs were not scored was entirely due to the length of grass in the outfield in those pre-lawnmower days – and the outfield also held more dangers in the form of deposits left by the animals who called the Nap home on non-cricketing days. Stogumber’s most famous player was Jack White, the slow-leftarm bowler who was born in Holford and lived most of his life at Yarde Farm, Combe Florey. ‘Farmer’ White’s 15 test matches – 14 of which came after the age of 37 – included the 4-1 1928/29 Ashes victory in Australia, where he even captained England in the final test of this series. It was on this tour that he enjoyed his finest match for England, with match figures of 124.5 overs, 37 maidens and 13 wickets for 256 runs, leading England to a 12-run victory in the Adelaide Test. His performances throughout this Ashes series, during which he bowled a scarcely-believable 406.4 overs, conceding just 760 runs and taking 25 wickets, played a huge part in England’s series victory, and led to him being named as a Wisden Cricketer of the Year in 1929. ‘Farmer’ White, whose nickname owed as much to his ruddy complexion as to his chosen profession, played for Somerset for almost 30 years,
Exmoor Summer 2013 63
Active Exmoor scoring over 12,000 runs and taking almost 2,500 wickets in the first class game, as well as serving as Somerset captain for five years and an England selector for two. Without doubt, this Stogumber hero is by far the best cricketer to have graced the West Somerset cricket scene. In 1991, Stogumber CC moved to its present home on Station Road in the village, where, at the inaugural match, players had to change in a roofless pavilion and shower under a tree. Things have come a long way since then, however, and these days the club boasts some of the finest facilities that a village club can offer – excellent changing and bar facilities, a pitch that is a joy to bat on and an outfield that is second to none. Another local cricket club with over a century of history is Timberscombe, whose Cowbridge ground by the river Avill has spectacular views of Dunkery Beacon in one direction and of a picturesque manor house on the way to Dunster in the other.
Although the ground is well prepared and lovingly looked after these days, in years gone by, horses were kept away from the square – which was cut using a hand mower – using hurdles. As the outfield was not mown, games were invariably low-scoring, with runs being at a premium. This is clearly reflected in a local derby at home to rivals Wootton Courtenay on 3 June 1952, when the visitors batted first and were bowled out for just 25, which included five ducks. The star bowler for Timberscombe was Maurice Huxtable – a long-serving player who carried on playing for the side until he was 69 and who still lives in the village to this day – who took 6 wickets for 11 runs. In reply to Wootton Courtenay’s 25, Timberscombe seemed in little trouble at 15 for 1, but then lost their last 9 wickets for just 7 runs as they were bowled out for 22 to lose by 3 runs, with Arthur ‘Buster’ May-Brown, who in the first innings had scored the only boundary of the game, taking 4 wickets for 11 runs in 11 overs. In those days, only the villagers of Timberscombe were eligible to play for the local side, although selection criteria have been somewhat relaxed since, with some current players travelling from as far afield as Minehead. Perhaps the most beautiful ground on Exmoor is that at Bridgetown, which has won the Wisden Prettiest Ground in England Award thanks to its stunning thatched pavilion and its inimitable slope on one side of the ground and the River Exe on the other. Bridgetown Cricket Club was formed in 1924 by Roy Nesfield, a former Worcestershire cricketer who insti-
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Active Exmoor gated the Bridgetown v Somerset Stragglers match that remains in the fixture card to this day. Somerset Stragglers used to host Bridgetown at the County Ground, Taunton, until the 1960s, but the change of venue to Bridgetown has not made the annual fixture any less enjoyable, with the last game played producing 584 runs for the loss of just 9 wickets all afternoon, including a first wicket stand of 211 for Bridgetown. Due to its beauty and location, Bridgetown has been a favourite with touring sides for many seasons and, over the years, it has seen a number of famous players turn out for opposing touring sides, including the England Test players Vic Marks and Derek Pringle, and the fearsome, 6’8’’-tall, West Indian fast bowler Joel Garner. Much to the relief of the home batsmen, Garner was feeling under the weather on the day he came to Bridgetown, and so was only able to bowl a few overs of gentle off-spin. The unique setting of Bridgetown’s ground led to the local rules for many a year stating that a batsman’s shot must clear the River Exe for it to be a 6, although this has now been relaxed (in spite of the better bats available) so that a shot over the boundary fence and into the river will now earn a maximum. However, this local rule has nothing on the one in place at the former ground at Brushford, where any shot hitting the tree in the field of play was ruled a ‘boundary 2’. Competitive league cricket came fairly late to the area, with the Somerset Cricket League launching in 1973, and the West Somerset Cricket League (WSCL) starting three years later. The WSCL began with five local teams in 1976 – Ashbrittle, Brompton Ralph, Dulverton, Huish Champflower and
Stogumber – and, by 1978, Allerford, Crowcombe, Cutcombe, Fitzhead, Lydeard St Lawrence, Minehead 2nd XI, Over Stowey and Roadwater had also joined the competition. In 1979, the introduction of another ten teams – including Bridgetown, Carhampton, Exford, Winsford and Wootton Courtenay – led to the creation of a second division, and the WSCL has gone from strength to strength ever since. After a few years plying their trade in the Somerset Cricket League, founder members Stogumber have been welcomed back to the WSCL with open arms in 2013, with visiting teams keen to play again at their Station Road ground. In the 2013 season, the WSCL has 50 teams playing every Saturday across five divisions, with the first champions back in 1976, Brompton Ralph, playing as current title-holders, having won the league on the last day of the 2012 season. Roy Takle, one of Brompton Ralph’s stars on the pitch in the early days of league cricket, is now a hero off the field – preparing the grounds before every game, and serving thirsty cricketers in the bar after each match. Local teams Minehead and Watchet fly the flag for West Somerset in the upper echelons of the Somerset Cricket League and the West of England ‘pyramid’, proving that competitive cricket of every level is available across the local area. For the best part of 150 years, cricket has thrived and flourished throughout Exmoor and beyond and, although many of the aspects of the game today may not be recognisable to those who turned out in the Victorian era, the enjoyment and pleasure that cricket brings to so many on a summer’s day remains apparent. One can only hope that the next century and a half proves as good to this greatest of English sports in the greatest part of England.
An editor's note on the Great British weather!
Thanks to the weather not really playing ball during 2012, Bridgetown have, visually at least, become the stars of the show in this feature, because every cricket ground photoshoot in our diary for Andrew Hobbs was rained off bar one! "And what about Devon?" I hear you cry. Well, David Rowlatt's beautiful photo (left) of Valley of Rocks, is just a taste to a follow-up on Devon cricket clubs which will appear in the magazine in the future. Thank you to Stogumber CC for responding to our call for old cricketing images; and if you have since found pictures that you would like to share why not put them on our Facebook page – search Exmoor Magazine to find us. If you would like to read more about cricket in Somerset, please see page 74 for a special book offer!
Exmoor Summer 2013 65
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Experience Exmoor has exclusive vehicular access to the old carriageway to Woody Bay.
A
kestrel soars above the sun-dappled moorland, and all the way to the Bristol Channel, some ten miles distant, there’s no visible sign of a human being. Neil Osmond turns off the engine of his smart Discovery 4 Land Rover. “Just listen,” he says and we hear the unfamiliar sound of silence. It’s broken only by the furtive movement of wind in the gorse and what sounds like two pebbles being knocked together. "That’s a stonechat," Neil says and a tiny bird looking something like a robin observes us fearlessly from a nearby bush [see page 57]. "No one can help being affected by the beauty of this place. I am – and I’m up here nearly every day." He smiles the smile of someone who is doing exactly what he wants and loves every minute of it. We are on safari with Experience Exmoor, the latest of some half-dozen operators to realise that while a good proportion of Exmoor’s two million visitors a year are happy to don boots and rucksack and tramp across the moor in search of its hidden glories, about 20,000 people prefer to do it in the comfort of a luxury 4x4. They can be elderly and retired, in indifferent health, naturalists and photographers who want to observe rather than hike, but more than likely they’re motorists who don’t fancy tackling the switchback of narrow lanes with the prospect of some monstrous tractor around the next corner.
“When you’re driving your own car you miss half of what’s going on,” says Eddie Welford, a retired farmer and doyen of safari guides who, for the last ten years, has been working for Exford-based Exmoor Safari, the original Exmoor safari company. “When we do the driving, the clients are high up, relaxed and free to look around. Even locals who think they know the moor are amazed by what can be seen when they come out with us.” Experience Exmoor, based near Kentisbury, North Devon, came into existence only two years ago mainly because of Neil Osmond’s father’s knee, which perhaps needs some explanation! "My dad had knee surgery and missed getting out on the moor. I took him for drives and he said there must be a lot of people who would love to explore Exmoor but just weren’t up to it. The idea just took off from there." Neil had spent childhood holidays on Exmoor with his grandparents when he was taught to ride and to fish for salmon and trout in the Exe and Barle. "It was an idyllic childhood and gave me a love of Exmoor that I’ve never lost."
the idea and it seemed a good time for us both to leave the corporate life. Christel had already lost her heart to Exmoor and it was the only place we wanted to be." It was a steep learning curve. "We’d had absolutely no experience of safaris so we booked with an award-winning company in the Highlands to see how it was done and came back feeling pretty good. We realised that Exmoor had a special magic and there was no reason why we shouldn’t make our product as good, or even better, than the Scottish model." The Osmonds’ research showed that as most existing safari operations were Somerset-based, there were business opportunities on the western side of the moor. Months of negotiation resulted in exclusive vehicular access to private National Trust moorland, woodland and coastal tracks including the precipitous road to the Foreland lighthouse.
Even when he became an executive with the global logistics giant DHL, moved to Brussels, married Christel, a Belgian girl, and had two young sons, the pull of Exmoor not only remained, but grew ever stronger.
"Soon we were getting fabulous feedback from people who said they loved Exmoor so much that they wanted to come out with us again. It’s not surprising really when you realise just what Exmoor has to offer – the country’s largest herd of wild Red Deer, the highest sea-cliffs, the most remote shoreline, plants that grow nowhere else, a rare fritillary butterfly, the nation's oldest breed of wild horses, rare birds of prey, Europe's first dark sky reserve... the list is endless."
"I was asked to transfer from Brussels to Germany but neither Christel nor I liked
And so it proved. We’d reckoned there wasn’t much of Exmoor Neil could show
Exmoor Summer 2013 67
On Safari us that we hadn’t seen over the years but we were wrong. As it turned out, most of the three-hour meander in a ragged circle, taking in Bratton Down, Slowley Stone, Long Holcombe, Sandyway, Lucott Cross, County Gate, Foreland Point, Lynmouth and Parracombe, was through unknown lanes so narrow and rarely-used that hedges reached out to lash the Discovery as it went by.
RED STAG SAFARI Andrew Turner started Red Stag Safari four years ago and combines being a tour guide with his work as a qualified surveyor. He grew up on the moor and his family has farmed here for 200 years. At the wheel of his luxury Land Rover Discovery 3, Andrew specialises in customised tours for his passengers, taking in not only wildlife and spectacular scenery but ancient history and geology to explain the moor’s Bronze-Age settlements with their cairns, barrows, standing stones and ancient bridges. "We travel at least twice as far as some operators," Andrew says. "And if you’re guiding people around the moor for about four hours you have to know your stuff – a lot of people mug up on information before they come and know a surprising amount. So every winter I do more research to make sure that I keep up to date and can answer any question that’s thrown at me." redstagsafari.co.uk 01643 841831
An Exmoor Pony overlooking the River Barle, courtesy Experience Exmoor. Eddie was right. You do notice things when you’re not driving. At Wellshead, a brigade of cock pheasants in bronze and gold march suicidally through a tunnel of burnished beech-hedge... at Fullaford, moss grows like pile carpet and ferns scale the trunks of ancient trees... at Fyldon Common, a group of hinds with their young pick at new shoots behind a thicket of heather and pose for the camera... near Landacre Bridge two hen harriers see off a massive rook watched by a shaggy laconic cow... After hurrying past it countless times over the years we finally pause at Mole’s Chamber near Challacombe to wonder just how and why the Reverend Richard Mole and his horse disappeared into a peat bog in 1752 never to be seen again. Foreland lighthouse, Devon’s most northerly point, was the last stop. The vertiginous private road plunges in a series of breathtaking hairpins through a valley formed by towering terraces of scree lying on slopes which date from the Ice Age. Stick in a few cacti and you could be in Spain, Mexico, or even in a spaghetti western. "Maybe," Neil says, "but to be honest I’m glad it’s Exmoor. For me, working here makes every day a holiday." www.experienceexmoor.co.uk 01271 889316
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Four Red Stag Safari images shown here courtesy Andrew Turner.
BARLE VALLEY SAFARIS Daphne Brace has just taken over Barle Valley Safaris from the previous owners after being a guide for them for nine years. Now running the company with her son Richard, Daphne is Exmoor’s only woman safari tour owner/driver and thinks she is the only one who allows visitors to bring their dogs. Daphne has spent her life on the moor and her family has farmed there for at least four generations. Barle Valley Safaris has been operating for 15 years using a Land Rover Defender which came onto the moor straight from the showroom. Barle Valley usually averages around 2,000 visitors a year. "People are fascinated by life on Exmoor, particularly farming, and
Barle Valley images courtesy Daphne Brace.
want to know what sort of life we lead," Daphne says. "When you’ve lived here all your life you’re sometimes in danger of taking it for granted. But the pleasure strangers get from being on the moor for the first time reminds you what a special place it is." exmoorwildlifesafaris.co.uk 07977 571494
EXMOOR SAFARI Exmoor’s original and oldest safari operator, in business since 1983, has also pioneered Exmoor Stargazing Safaris, which take advantage of one of only two international dark sky reserves in Europe – areas which are largely unaffected by light-pollution. Guided by astronomy experts, stargazers equipped with binoculars and star-charts have the clearest view ever of distant stars and galaxies – the notorious Exmoor fog permitting! Back on the ground, Exmoor Safari’s eight-person Land Rovers and three experienced local guides take wildlife lovers to the remote haunts of wild red deer, buzzards, kestrels, pony herds, herons, kingfishers, foxes and hares. Eddie Welford tells me: "Operating out of Exford, we couldn’t be in a better position to access the natural beauty and wildlife that Exmoor has to offer. Everything is within pretty easy reach. That’s a big part of the magic of this moorland of ours." exmoorsafari.co.uk 01643 831229
CULBONE FOOD SAFARIS Exmoor safaris aren’t just about wildlife and breathtaking scenery. The Culbone restaurant (with rooms) between Lynmouth and Porlock has a highly popular weekend food safari for those who prefer a culinary adventure. Guests will take a trip to Bellbrook Fishery to learn how to fly fish and to catch local trout for dinner as well as being given a masterclass in cooking with fish. A visit to see an award-winning herd of Ruby Red Devon cattle on nearby Red Cow Farm and to learn about specialist beef production from Simon and Tracey David, the third generation to farm the breed, and a butchery and beef-cooking masterclass is also included.
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Culbone Fo
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OFFER! Readers of Exmoor Magazine can claim 10% off their Culbone Food Safari – simply mention the magazine when booking!
Safari!
www.theculbone.com 01643 862259
10% off y o
"The countryside here really inspires me," says Somerset-born head chef Jack Scarterfield. "The quality of the produce is amazing."
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Three images shown here with Exmoor Safari, courtesy Wild Encounters.
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Under the stars: camping and caravanning on Exmoor E X E V A L L E Y C A R AVA N S I T E Adults only, flat, spacious campsite. Every pitch beside River Exe or the Mill Stream. Clean heated facilities, shop, excellent village pub. Mill House, Bridgetown, Dulverton,TA22 9JR T. 01643 851432 E. info@exevalleycamping.co.uk www.exevalleycamping.co.uk
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Family run park set in beautiful countryside overlooking Rockham beach. Holiday homes, tourers and camping. Shop, showers, children’s play areas.
HALSE FARM CARAVAN & CAMPING SITE Halse Farm is the ideal location for camping and caravanning under dark skies with terrific views of the stars.
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AM P I N G
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PARK
Mortehoe, Woolacombe, North Devon, EX34 7EG T. 01271 870381 E. info@northmortefarm.co.uk www.northmortefarm.co.uk
CHANNEL VIEW Family run camping & touring park within Exmoor National Park. Stunning views. Excellent walking direct from site. Holiday Caravans available. Channel View Caravan & Camping Park, Manor Farm, Barbrook, Lynton EX35 6LD T: 01598 753349 E: relax@channel-view.co.uk
N E W B E R RY VA L L E Y Newberry Valley is a family-run, dog-friendly Gold-Award campsite only five minutes' walk from the beaches and village of Combe Martin.
Halse Farm, Winsford, Exmoor, Somerset TA24 7JL T. 01643 851259 E. info@halsefarm.co.uk www.halsefarm.co.uk
Newberry Valley Park,Woodlands, Combe Martin, EX34 0AT
WARREN B AY HOLIDAY VILLAGE
E X M O O R C O A S T H O L I D AY S
Tourers and tents. Caravans for hire, lodges for sale. Indoor swimming pool, shop and private beach. Less than a mile from Watchet, a seaside town with superb Marina.
130 acres of flat camping fields with stunning seaviews over Lee Bay. Excellent facilities. Child-friendly. Riding and bike hire.
Watchet, Somerset TA23 0JR Tel: 01984 631460 wwww.warrenbayholidayvillage.co.uk
LOWTROW CROSS CARAVAN & CAMPING SITE Small, quiet, ADULTS ONLY site close to Wimbleball Lake. Wonderful walking or relaxing in a peaceful setting. Spotless, 4 Star facilities.
T: 01271 882334 E: relax@newberryvalleypark.co.uk www.newberryvalleypark.co.uk
( F O R M E R LY D O O N E VA L L E Y H O L I DAY S )
Caffyns Farm, Lynton, Devon, EX35 6JW T: 01598 753967 E. stay@exmoorcoastholidays.co.uk www.exmoorcoastholidays.co.uk
WESTERMILL FARM Westermill can be found tucked away at the end of a private valley, deep in the rugged heart of Exmoor.
Upton,Taunton TA4 2DB T. 01398 371199 E. lowtrowcross@gmail.com www.lowtrowcross.co.uk
Westermill Farm Camping and Cottages, Exford, Nr Minehead, Exmoor TA24 7NJ T: 01643 831238 Mob: 07970 594 808. E: info@westermill.com www.westermill.com
Devon Bell Company
We hire Bell Tents for your perfect glamping experience For family holidays and weddings 5 different experiences available from a blank canvas to fully decorated with a wood burning stove and a chandelier creating a beautiful atmosphere. Just name your experience, location, date and duration.
Contact www.devonbellco.com Sally and Mark north devon ex34 8ex
ETC
MOBILE TOURING CARAVAN SERVICING & REPAIRS Tel: 01643 841684 Mob: 07814 759819 Contact Chris Harding
70 Exmoor Summer 2013
MOBILE BREAKDOWN EMERGENCY CALL OUT SERVICE ANNUAL SERVICING VALETING DAMP TEST & REPORT PRE PURCHASE INSPECTIONS
NEW BUSINESS
Longlands Safari Lodges
Photography by Andrew Hobbs and (above, insets far left and third from left) Bella Given
T
o complete your safari experience, why not end the day under canvas rather than head home? True, Robert Redford is unlikely to be in tow ready to wash your hair as you sip wine and listen to the wind-up gramophone, but apart from that a spectacularly authentic experience is possible right here on Exmoor. Longlands, set amid 17 acres of secluded, rolling hills above Combe Martin, is lion-free but otherwise perfect Out of Africa material. Proprietor Bella Given explains her inspiration behind the creation of its three lodges, Lundy, Luscombe and Lee (and two more are on the way!)...
"Lavish, luxurious and snug (three words rarely associated in our minds with the great outdoors!). The safari tent was simply beautiful and the attention to detail was evident in every single aspect and also very practical.�
" The idea started with a weekend at the luxurious Button Quail campsite in South Africa seven years ago. There were proper beds, hot-water bottles, a loo and heated shower all in a beautiful safari tent: camping as I knew it did not compare! At last, I was forced to reconsider the unwavering anti-camping stance which I had held to ever since spending eight weeks under canvas on a glacier in arctic Sweden! "When we found Longlands, in a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, it seemed the perfect location in which to offer a similar back-to-nature holiday to that which we had experienced in South Africa." A long process thereby began, starting with a preliminary planning application, followed by six months of liaison with consultants and specialists on everything from bats and drainage, to highways, architecture and tourism guidelines. Finally, there was a long and painful wait, which Bella and fellow business partners (husband Richard, and friends Pam Shephard and Ester Spears) filled fruitfully by sourcing the furniture and decorative details which make Longlands so unique. "We were spoilt for beautiful shops and had great fun before we found out that we had the green light. In May 2012 we were able to break ground and start creating in earnest and by 27 July we had our first guests holidaying in Lundy!"
Exmoor Summer 2013 71
Longlands Source Book
CONTACT Bella Given, Longlands Farm, Coulsworthy, Combe Martin, North Devon EX34 0PD Email: info@longlandsdevon.co.uk Website: www.longlandsdevon.co.uk Tel: 01271 882004 or 07798 526133
“It's not just a camping experience – it's camping meets log cabin, meets B&B, with all the romance of a country escape, coupled with all the comforts of home.”
72 Exmoor Summer 2013
Albion Canvas, Wellington www.albioncanvas.co.uk Safari lodges Brimblecombe, Dulverton www.brimblecombeonline.com Oven gloves, faux cyclamen, tea light holder Brown’s Antiques, Barnstaple www.brownsarchitecturalantiques.co.uk Dressers, blanket box, chesterfield, tables, chairs Cool Calm Collected, Barnstaple www.coolcalmcollected.net Fabrics and cushions Devon Wildlife Trust www.devonwildlifetrust.org/wildlife-of-devon-print Exmoor Flowers, Lynton www.exmoorflowers.co.uk Baskets Grace & Glory, Barnstaple www.graceandgloryhome.co.uk Clocks, tinware, prints and hooks Horse & Crook, Dunster www.horseandcrook.co.uk Storm lanterns and planters Kevin Green Pottery, Parracombe Tel. 01598 763516 Fruit bowls Lyn Candles, Lynton www.lyncandles.com Pillar and scented candles DJ Miles, Porlock and Minehead www.djmiles.co.uk Tins of tea, coffee, hot chocolate National Trust (Watersmeet/Heddon Valley) Rugs, torches, maps, books of walks 01598 753348/01598 763402 Nollys, South Molton www.nollys.co.uk Dressers, blanket box, crates, chesterfield Old Favourite www.oldfavourite.co.uk Printed cushions, Longlands tea towels Pots & Pans, Barnstaple www.pots-and-pans.co.uk Trays, pots and cutlery Source for the Goose, South Molton www.sourceforthegoose.com Cutlery box, rugs
in Dunster High Street
Hand made chocolates by Nutcombe Chocolates and friends Hot chocolates, teas, coffees, cold drinks and yummy cakes and snacks in our cosy café Chocolate Fountain (high days & school holidays!) Interesting local gifts and treats
Can’t come to Dunster? Our online shop is now live!
www.shop.nutcombe-chocs.co.uk
www.dunsterchocolatehouse.blogspot.com
Exmoor Touring Caravan Hire Luxury touring caravans taken to site and set up for you to enjoy
All the vans are modern and well equiped with awning, TV, bedding and towels etc. Family holidays from £295 per week.
No towing involved, we do it all for you and set the van up so all you need to do is turn up and enjoy your holiday.
Telephone: 01643 841684 e-mail: enquiries@exmoortouringcaravanhire.co.uk www.exmoortouringcaravanhire.co.uk
Full Design Service • Project management Comprehensive range of fabrics • Curtain making Upholstery • Lighting • Accessories • Sourcing Bed linen • China
The Riversford Hotel
IN BEAUTIFUL NORTH DEVON
Special Summer into Autumn Offer ENJOY A RELAXING BREAK £40.00 per person per night (based on two people sharing)
includes the two course evening meal.
Rupert White Interiors 20 Fore Street, Bampton, Devon EX16 9ND T: 01398 332 444 M: 07789 377 412 E: rupert@rupertwhiteinteriors.co.uk Opening hours –- Tuesday Monday to to Friday Friday10.00am Opening 10.00am to to5.00pm. 5.00pm Saturday10.00am 10.00am to Saturday to1.00pm. 1.00pm
Most of our individual ensuite bedrooms overlook the River Torridge. Four poster and suites available. Our award winning river view restaurant serves high quality locally sourced fresh foods. Traditional and local fish a speciality. Riversford is ideal for exploring the surrounding area such as the quaint fishing villages of Appledore and Clovelly. We lie opposite the famous Henry Williams’ Tarka Trail. Ideal for walking and cycling. Visit the RHS Rosemoor Gardens National Trust properties close by. FOR FURTHER INFORMATION PLEASE TELEPHONE
01237 474239
Riversford Hotel, Limers Lane, Bideford, North Devon EX39 2RG Riversford@aol.com www.riversford.co.uk
Exmoor Summer 2013 73
Books news & reviews
by Hilary Binding
74 Exmoor Summer 2013
the county, including the Big Three: Ian Botham, Joel Garner and Viv Richards. These photographs, published here for the first time, were taken over the years by Taunton-based photographer, Alain Lockyer, and are now in the possession of Somerset Cricket Museum where they form part of a unique archive of images relating to the history of the club at the time. This selection not only highlights exciting action from classic matches, but candid behind-the-scenes shots of the players both at rest and at play. And don’t they all look young! Accompanying the pictures is an informative text by County Museum
save £4.99 an
Trustee and journalist Richard Walsh, which OFFER! records the events of these years, much success and some sadness, and so completes a remarkable visual history, packed with classic memories. This is a must, not only for fans of Somerset cricket but for devotees of the summer game, wherever they come from. c
It was a period when there were no horse boxes and it was normal to hack
There is something exciting about these old accounts and in our imagination we can trace the routes taken by the hunt; envisage the field of both old and young (Master Ivor Pethick, aged seven, was in at the death after a four-hour run on 23 September 1905); empathise with riders during a blinding snowstorm in April 1899; and feel the horror of the day when the hounds narrowly escaped being cut to pieces by a train near Brushford. It is this fascinating detail that will appeal to all those who love the glorious countryside where Devon meets Somerset, as well as those with a passion for hunting.
Our readers can save £4.99 when they order the book post-free at the reduced price of £17.99 direct from Halsgrove. To claim your discount simply order by phone on 01823 653775 quoting 'Exmoor Mag summer offer'.
this title!
This is a book of sheer nostalgia: a photographic record of those wonderful years from 1973 to 1990 when Somerset Cricket Club enjoyed some of its greatest successes, winning five one-day trophies in as many seasons. These were the Glory Years when numerous fine players represented
Sir John Amory’s Staghounds were formed in 1896 to hunt the country to the south of the Devon and Somerset Staghounds. Queen Victoria was still on the throne, and their glory days were in the long Edwardian ‘summer’ before the First World War. Newspapers of the day carried detailed reports of hunting, and Richard Lethbridge, who chronicled the Tiverton Staghounds in 2000 and the Barnstaple Staghounds in 2004, has returned to the sources and painstakingly transcribed and edited the runs. The book is illustrated with photographs of the hunt and of key personalities, together with light-hearted sketches by Terry Gable.
on
Somerset Cricket, The Glory Years, Alain Lockyer with Richard Walsh, Halsgrove, 2012, hb, 144pp, £19.99. ISBN 978 0 85704 113 5.
Sir John Amory’s Staghounds, Richard Lethbridge MBE, Ryelands, 2012, hb, 160pp, £24.99, ISBN 978 1 906551 34 6.
the hounds to the meets and back again, and for far-distant meets the hounds were brought down the night before and kennelled, the Fox and Hounds at Eggesford being a favourite location. From time to time, hounds, riders and horses would even travel on the train and, on one occasion, the hounds were transported in a van drawn by a steam motor! The stalwart field often hacked to a meet, hunted for several hours and many miles over arduous terrain and then faced a ride home of 15 miles or more.
r reader s
Readers of Christopher Tull’s previous novels will be sad to know that this is the last in the series. Well known on Exmoor, Christopher Tull was born in 1936, the son of a country rector. He was ordained in 1962, and spent his ministry in parishes between Tiverton and South Molton and inevitably will have called heavily upon this experience when creating the ‘Green Pastures’ quartet. For Ever in Green Pastures is set in the 1980s in the fictional rural West Country benefice of Ashenridge, which includes the five small villages of Westaleigh, Brookworthy, North and South Monkton and Combe Peter, commonly known as the Badger Group. Jack has been rector here for some 25 years and he and his wife have ideas about moving to pastures new. However, when the Bishop of Whiteminster unexpectedly announces the potential closure of all of Jack’s churches save one, events take a very different turn.
The story is full of richly-drawn characters, believable incidents, friendships and squabbles, all interlinked with the presentday challenges for the Church in the countryside. The workload of the parish priest seems heavier than ever and it is hardly surprising that Jack collapses under its weight. It is only once he and Mary decide the time has come to retire that they see how much the people in the parishes have appreciated their dedication and service. Is there a happy ending? You must read the book to find out!
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For Ever in Green Pastures, Christopher Tull, Broad Street Publishing, 2012, pb, 194pp, £8.99. ISBN 978 0 9557019 8 6.
Village Schooling in Somerset, Sarah Villiers, Ryelands, 2012, hb, 224pp, £24.99. ISBN 978 1 906551 33 9. For anyone interested in the history of education in Somerset, this volume will prove a useful introduction. It tells the story of the kind of schools which were attended by a few children at the beginning of the nineteenth century, but by growing numbers from the 1870s (when, with Forster’s Education Act, schooling became compulsory) and many more from the 1890s (once schooling became free). Former teacher Sarah Villiers has immersed herself in local research. She has concentrated on a number of schools from across the county using, among other sources, the Log Books which head teachers had to keep up daily from the mid-1800s and which reveal fascinating information about the life of any school. The book begins with an introduction to the range of schools in Somerset and their development from Tudor times to the late 1700s and this is followed by profiles of two key pioneering educationalists, the ‘blue-stocking’ Hannah More and the Revd John Poole. Hannah, with her sisters and friends, formed Sunday Schools, Female Clubs and Schools of Industry in the Mendip area, designed especially for women and children, while John Poole, the cousin of Tom Poole of Nether Stowey, friend of S T Coleridge, established in 1810 a model school at Enmore based on the monitorial system. His writings
describe the school’s organisation, syllabus and methods, which inspired the foundation of other schools and, after the 1830s, many were established across the county by benefactors, charities and, in some cases, with the help of government awards. The first school buildings were all very similar – a main hall with large, high windows (plenty of light but no gazing into the countryside!) linked to a two-storey School House for the teacher, sometimes with a second classroom. Later the main hall was partitioned for use by different ages. Teacher training, including that of monitors and pupilteachers, is considered and in some cases their successes and failures recorded. A set of rules for young female teachers in one town – and most teachers were women – showed that they were not allowed to marry, had to stay at home between 8pm and 6am unless attending a school function, were not allowed to ride in a carriage with a man unless he was their father or brother and had to dress in grey or black with a skirt no more than an inch above their ankles! Curriculum, teaching and learning methods, discipline, absenteeism and life in the classroom and playground are all considered from a sample of schools across Somerset which includes Cutcombe, Luccombe and Skilgate. There are brief references to other local schools, which are listed in a useful summary index. There’s plenty of evidence that in many cases conditions were unpleasant: schools were often cold and overcrowded and teaching methods monotonous, yet we also know that there were some teachers who inspired their pupils and provided enthralling learning experiences for them.
Number Seven’s Walking Book Club by Davina Jelley
Number Seven in Dulverton is a haven for book and art lovers but the shop’s location also lends itself to those who enjoy walking, as a gentle five-minute stroll will take you into Burridge Woods bordered by the River Barle. These two aspects have inspired the Walking Book Club. We meet every last Saturday of the month to discuss the chosen book as we walk. Walking and talking enables you to chat to different people in a more relaxed atmosphere and being active is obviously beneficial for mind and body. If you would like to join us, then meet us at 2pm outside Number Seven, wear suitable footwear and allow approximately two hours to walk and talk – happy dogs are welcome. There is no charge to join and the books will be available at a special price from Number Seven. Visit the website www.numbersevendulverton.co.uk to find out about each month’s chosen book. We aim to cover all genres and decades and welcome suggestions.
Brief notes F
Devon Castles, Robert Hesketh, Bossiney Books, 2013, £3.99, pb, 40pp. ISBN: 978 1 906474 39 3. Devon has a wealth of castles and in this well-produced and attractive guide the author presents a concise history of castles from earliest times to the present day, showing how they have developed and altered over centuries to meet the changing needs of the people who used them. There is a clear photograph and description of each featured castle with a short history and details of current use, parking and access when permitted. 'A Real Ale Guide to the West Somerset Railway' Prepared by the WSR branch of CAMRA, this 16-page leaflet is a guide to the pubs selling real ale (and local cider) within a sensible walking distance (or bus route) of the WSR stations. Directions, history and ambience, as well as details of facilities including food and drink, are all here to help you plan your real ale day out. Inevitably this information is transient, so a glance at www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk before you travel will advise of any changes. The leaflet also contains details of the Somerset Real Ale Festival held at Minehead Station each September; of special Beer and Cider Train journeys; and a list of local breweries and cider producers. Available for £2.50 (incl. p&p) from WSR (Ale Guide), The Railway Station, Minehead TA24 5BG (cheques payable to West Somerset Railway). Pigs in Clover, Simon Dawson, Watkins Publishing, 2013, pb, 330pp, £7.99. ISBN 978 1 78028 501 6. Simon Dawson’s hilarious new book will be published in June. We shall include a full review in the autumn issue.
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Blacksmithing, Welding & Fabrication
Melody Art Gallery High Street, Porlock, TA24 8PT Pure Vision
A traditional blacksmith's workshop and gallery offering a complete metalwork service from repair and restorations to large architectural projects in all forms of metal.
Oil paintings by Melody Hawtin B.A.Hons Photography by David Hawtin Fine art giclée prints
Love Exmoor
Pictures for life and your home
01643 862887 - www.melodyart.com
Lowman Gallery
Our current projects include Estate Railings, Gates, Handrails, Balustrades, Curtain Rails, Furniture, Sculptural Art and Stainless Steel & Glass Panels. We offer a full design and estimation service and make all our work here in Exmoor and install all around the uk. To view a full range of our service visit www.allerfordforge.co.uk or pop over to the forge and meet the team.
Etchings & Engravings Original Artwork Limited Edition Giclee Prints Open Editions
Picture Framing Large selection of contemporary & traditional mouldings
01643 863339 kroberts@allerfordforge.co.uk
39 Gold Street Tiverton EX16 6QB Tel: 01884 252661
‘A Year on Exmoor’ Exhibition of Paintings by
Ian Cryer ROI
May 6th - June 1st 2013
C h u rch ga t e G a l l e ry H i g h S t r e e t , Po r l o c k
TA 2 4
8PT
01643 862238 w w w. c h u r c h g a t e g a l l e r y. c o . u k
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Open Mon, Tue & Thu to Sat 10 - 5
ALLERFORD FORGE
THE ARTS
A Year on Exmoor WORDS & PAINTINGS by Ian Cryer, ROI (Royal Instutute of Oil Painters)
O
ne thing that really stimulates my work is a big project, and when I was asked if I would be interested in a show featuring 'a Year on Exmoor' with Will and Rachael at the Churchgate Gallery, Porlock, I didn’t hesitate in jumping to the challenge. I had known Will since painting his children watching TV for a show, at the Lynda Cotton Gallery in Watchet, which centered on West Somerset. At that time, I had not really ventured too far, so a chance to paint out on Exmoor was an exciting progression. I live on the northern edge of the old Somerset boundary near Bath so I am very much a visitor to West Somerset. In contemplating the images I would produce for my project I began by looking at work by painters I already knew, in particular the railway posters produced
during the 1930s and '50 for the Great Western Railway (GWR) and, later, British Railways. Alongside my painting career I have gained varied hands-on experience of a number of country-related skills, including rearing calves, breeding sheep, walling, hedging, heavy horse driving, wheelwrighting and sign writing – so although I don’t claim to be a countryman I do have a love of country traditions and crafts. One location I settled on early in the proceedings was the packhorse bridge at Allerford; it has been painted to death in many ways but I could not resist. I have known this scene since childhood as we owned a 'holiday artist's' interpretation that my parents had bought in Newquay. It had also been incorporated into a poster for the GWR by Frank Newbould.
Above: I often make a point of leaving myself the option of short-notice camping, with the aim of being on location at dawn. This is difficult to achieve when tucked up in a comfortable bed, so a few nights were spent in my trusty horse lorry where I have, relatively speaking, all mod cons. However, my Bedford is not ideal for exploring the narrow lanes of Exmoor and, one night, in my 'regular car', I failed to realise that petrol stations do not open 24/7 on Exmoor. Estimating that I would not have enough petrol to guarantee my safe return to Minehead from Lynmouth, I decided to wait until morning for the local station to open and duly set up my sleeping bag and pillow in the car. I went off for a few pints and a bite to eat. The next day I was rewarded with an interesting light across the water in the early morning.
Exmoor Summer 2013 77
My intention from the outset was not to be afraid of the much-loved and famous Exmoor location, the subject of many a visual celebration of this beautiful corner of England. The framework for the show started to evolve through conversations with Will and Rachael on my frequent visits, reading guides and old copies of the Exmoor Magazine and simply exploring and spending time on the moor. Last year’s particularly wet weather was of course quite an influence and I don’t think I have ever painted so many clouds in my life! Big skies became a feature, because of the nature of the moor, and a number of my compositions have extensive views with a low horizon but also big, impressive skies.
Above: I found an excuse to emulate JA Arnesby Brown's Norfolk cattle pictures in a couple of paintings of Exmoor ponies.
Below: Driving Sheep near Exford.
The poor weather gave me no choice but to cope without very much sunlight, but I now see this as a benefit. I have been left more than happy with the mood created by so much cloud; broad sweeps of shadow across the barren moors has been a new quality in my landscape painting that I have adopted to capture what could be seen at first glance as quite a featureless landscape compared to many. North Hill behind Minehead was a place I had not been to before and it was a great source of inspiration, standing alone like a lost planet and accessed behind the shops; very windswept and barren but within a stone’s throw of civilisation and Butlin's! The thatched cottages below North Hill were a surprise with their extremely picturesque layout, a case of nature imitating art I suspected, or maybe just art impersonating art. It’s funny and in some way flattering to my profession that earlier paintings of rural poverty helped create and sustain such an enduring and sought-after vision of an ideal home. I’m certainly sold on it as much as anyone – just as I’m still a sucker for wartime propaganda! I spent part of my childhood in Australia feeling homesick as a Ten Pound Pom and have never lost the sense of a yearned-for England which the experience engendered. Selworthy provided a bit of National Trust flavour but I tried to offset something of the chocolate-boxiness (if that is a word) with a particularly moody light. Porlock Weir is a quirky, characterful place and the lanes out the back of Porlock led to an extremely off-the-beaten-track campsite where children played in the morning light, swinging over the stream.
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The Arts Porlock Hill loomed large in my imagination, as someone interested in horse-drawn transport. It's easy to forget what challenges abounded in everyday life and climbing Porlock Hill must have been some challenge! Railways are never far from my field of interest and connect various aspects of my life in so many ways; the West Somerset railway station at Minehead naturally had to be painted, but the Lynton and Barnstaple Railway was an entirely new delight. I have only recently fallen for the charms of narrow-gauge railways after taking my Shire horse to North Wales to pull slate wagons on the Corris Railway for a weekend. I found the station at Woody Bay to be charming and much more original than I imagined. The Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway was also a must and I enjoyed handling the unusual perspective needed to carry a painting off, one in which the poster influence came very much to the fore. I visited the studio of Ann Le Bas in Winsford, a place very evocative of the 1930s and '40s and I enjoyed our chat. Ann’s a great example that painters never retire; most of us who have been at it from the start don’t have a pension anyway! I liked her reminiscences about Munnings and his painting habits on the moor. Rather like his 'Pochade Box Studies' I have been doing a series of smaller paintings in various locations and I would like to come back with a gig at some point and set out to paint for the day or maybe just on horseback. The Cattle Market at Wheddon Cross was another must-do for me; I have always loved markets since the days as a 17-year-old when I stood shoulder to shoulder with dealers at Chippenham and Thornbury, buying calves and bringing them home on the back of a transit inside a builder's shelter held down with straps. I enjoyed sketching the farmers bidding, their socialising around the ring and listening to the auctioneer's patter. A good auctioneer creates a rhythmic pattern that seems like background music when I paint auctions. Top: Exford provided lots of ideas with its spacious village green and I was keen to get involved with the hunt as I love the idea of horses and hounds charging about the countryside in such a seemingly random manner. The atmosphere on Boxing Day at Exford was everything I expected it to be. Right: Cattle Market, Wheddon Cross.
With the final months before the show now passing I find myself with an abundance of ideas still to work on and more coming with every visit, not to mention painting portraits of some of the characters I have met in the process. What at first sight seemed a barren landscape has grown for me into a subject where inspiration now seems to lurk behind every hedgerow and I can see that I may be busy on Exmoor for many years to come!
Further Information To view the paintings described here, plus many more, go along to 'A Year on Exmoor' which is open at Churchgate Gallery, Porlock, until 1 June. Tel. 01643 862238, www.churchgategallery.co.uk
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80 Exmoor Summer 2013
E XMO O R
Crossword Summer 2013 by Bryan Cath
£20 will be paid for the first correct entry out of the hat on 15 July 2013. Send a photocopy if you would prefer not to cut your magazine up. Please post your answer to Crossword Competition, Exmoor The Country Magazine, PO Box 281, Parracombe, Devon EX31 4WW. The solution will be published in the next issue. Summer 2013 solution from: Name: Address:
Clues across: 7 It is very unlikely to control the telly! (6) 8 Where would our local economy be without them? (8) 9 A breezy high point overlooking Sillery Sands. (4,4) 10 An alternative that is superior. (6) 11 Arrange a reel box to find this small parish of Tiverton. (8) 12 The marsh type makes a soft sweet, but we see the tree version on our coasts. (6) 13 I earned my MOT engineered by this powermeasuring instrument. (11) 18 A royal hunting ground as the original Exmoor used to be called. (6) 20 A natural aquarium left by the tide. (4,4) 22 A science fiction writer as I'm overdue to embrace his Foundation Series. (6) 23 Alice ran around enjoying the fresh atmosphere of Exmoor. (5,3) 24 Quick retorts tear set so backwards. (8) 25 This hammer is a big hit in the snow! (6) Down: 1 There are no veins cooked in this cervine flesh. (7) 2 Narrow gauge station revived in this leafy corner of Exmoor. (5,3) 3 Alter it near a light so you can see! (6) 4 A valley with Fraxinus excelsior near Simonsbath. (8) 5 A Norwegian dwarf supports his son while out for a gentle walk. (6) 6 To extract organic surroundings one uses this tug! (7) 8 This place transforms racks of lovely coastal scenery near Lynton. (6,2,5) 14 Something to do on Exmoor, such as walking or riding. (8) 15 Sounds like old coins to pay for work done. (8) 16 Company workers' leader move uncontrollably towards this yellow spring flower. (7) 17 Leaves together to feed the forest. (7) 19 Was once an open land that we know as home. (6) 21 A big one thinks he is important, but he needs to stop it! (6)
Congratulations to our Spring 2013 crossword winner: David Hall from Cheltenham.
Answers from Spring 2013 Crossword
Across: 7 Lichen, 8 Pardoned, 9 Caremoor, 10 Stable, 11 Wind farm, 12 Orchid, 13 Agriculture, 18 Forage, 20 Activity, 22 Violet, 23 Ice cream, 24 Tiverton, 25 Sextet. Down: 1 Titanic, 2 Sheep dog, 3 Angora, 4 Prescott, 5 Mosaic, 6 Reclaim, 8 Perambulation, 14 Identity, 15 River exe, 16 Molinia, 17 Steamer, 19 Allied, 21 Theism.
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Exmoor Summer 2013 81
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82 Exmoor Summer 2013
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COUNTRY MATTERS
Nightjar moments "The burring dor hawk round and round is wheeling That solitary bird Is all that can be heard In silence deeper far than deepest noon."
WORDS & DRAWING by Trevor Beer
T
he Nightjar (Caprimulgus europaeus) is the dor hawk because it takes the black dor beetle, which flies at and after sunset, as food. The bird is an insect eater, catching its prey on the wing like a swift. Thus it has other country names, such as Moth Owl and Gnat Hawk, and is also known as the Fern Owl and Goatsucker. To spend a late evening into a moonlit night with the nightjar is magical and I recommend it to all nature lovers. "Lone on the fir branch his rattle notes unvaried Brooding o'er the gloom spins the brown eve-jar." My first encounter with nightjars was in Somerset's Exmoor, where a breeding pair flew about in the moonlight like giant moths, wing-clapping and churring beautifully as one or t'other sat longways along a branch, the moon behind them throwing them into wonderful living silhouette. The next day I found and photographed two eggs in their ground nest in new plantation forestry. No nest is built, just a scrape in the ground suffices, and one to three eggs are laid. Incubation by both adults, from first egg, is eighteen days. Fledging by both adults is about two and a half weeks, the young becoming independent at six to seven weeks. In my experience two broods are usual. It is also called the Fern Owl because the nightjar is often found in association with bracken. The Goatsucker name is from an old country belief that the nightjar takes milk, sucking it directly from the udder of goats and cattle, an ancient belief dating back at least to Aristotle but quite untrue. In fact, its scientific name Caprimulgus is from the Greek and literally means 'goat sucker'.
Another old country name, Puck Bird, links it with Puck, a mischievous night spirit who may "skim milk and sometimes labour in the quern". To appease Puck, country folk would put out a saucer of milk at night. Often it would have gone come daybreak, probably drunk by hedgehog or farm cat. Other folk names include Night Churr, Screech Hawk, Night Swallow, Scissors Grinder, Jenny Spinner and Heath Jar. It is a strangely beautiful bird, hence another old name, Flying Toad. I have seen nightjars at Clatworthy Reservoir and Dunkery in Somerset and on the Twitchen/Molland Ridge and Trentishoe Common in Devon. The nightjar is, then, a locally common summer visitor and passage migrant. One tip: churring males is no guarantee that the birds are nesting as some may not find a mate and will move from place to place. Oh, and watch where you put your feet, control your dogs and keep to footpaths as many bird species are ground nesters. Trevor Beer will answer your natural history and countryside queries. Just drop him a line at Roselea, 38 Park Avenue, Barnstaple, Devon EX31 2ES. If you would like to go in search of the nightjar then you might be interested in the 'Nightjar Walks' from Dunster, on Thursdays 4, 11 and 18 July. An ENPA Ranger will help you seek out these elusive birds and spot other wildlife along the way under starlit skies. Call 01398 323841 to find out more or visit www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/visiting/events.
Exmoor Summer 2013 83
WELL BEING
Dr Gavin Haig MB F.R.C.S. (Eng) F.R.C.S.(Edin)
WORDS by Elaine Pearce
D
r Gavin Haig is an extraordinary man, whose school motto, aut viam inveniam aut faciam (find a way or make a way) is a fitting description for a life in which he has made his mark in more ways than one.
hospital where, one morning, Staff Nurse Holly waltzed in quoting a few lines from a recent Goon Show with appropriate mimes. It was love at first sight (for both of them) and in 1966 they married in St Bartholomew the Less.
Gavin was born in Belfast in 1937. During the war, he moved with his family to South West Essex. When he was ten he made a discovery that was to influence him for the rest of his life – a field full of wildflowers. He stood enchanted, absorbing the tapestry of colours while listening to the buzzing of busy bees. What seemed like clouds of butterflies fluttered past him with the breeze, which orchestrated a ballet performed by gossamer grasses. This particular field became a favourite place for picnics and visits with friends.
Gavin taught and worked in several hospitals but it was at the Royal Free Hospital, Gray’s Inn Road, that he came across fellow surgeon, the late Mr George Qvist, who would walk into the operating theatre, smoking a cigar (his mask down) thump Gavin on the back, lean on him (he was a huge man) and ask him how he was getting on! In fact, he became such a character that surgeon and anaesthetist, Mr Gordon Ostlere (aka Richard Gordon), was inspired to write a series of comic novels with a medical theme entitled Doctor in the House. Mr Qvist became ‘Sir Lancelot Spratt’ and was admirably portrayed by the late James Robertson Justice when the books were later adapted for TV and the big screen.
Gavin's passion for nature conservation remained with him throughout his schooldays, so much so that he told his head teacher at Chigwell School that he wanted to make his hobby a career. This was discouraged and ‘a more sensible option’ was suggested, and so Gavin went on to study Classics. He had a yearning to become a surgeon and after much hard work obtained his first MB at St Bartholomew’s (Barts), London. It was here that he met his wife, Holly, in somewhat unusual circumstances. An accident on the rugby pitch put him in
3
T H E
It was in the late 1970s that Gavin and Holly came to the area, settling in Tiverton where Gavin fell in love with Spillifords, Lower Washfield. Luckily the owner was a patient of Gavin’s and let him know when the property was to be sold. With the River Exe at the bottom of what was then a sloping field, Gavin could see the potential for the four acres being turned into a wildlife garden. Not only did he achieve
PA R A D E ,
M I N E H E A D
this but, according to Charlie Dimmock, it is one of the best wildlife gardens in the country and it became the family home where Holly and Gavin's two children, Sophy and Harriet, were raised. Gavin created his own (now unique to him) islands of flower beds containing up to 100 different wildflower species such as corncockle, corn marigold, poppy and heart’s ease: food plants for insects including butterflies, which are a particular interest of Gavin’s. A colony of marsh fritillary butterflies was successfully maintained on devil’s bit scabious and the pond heaved with minnows, frogs, toads, newts, dragonflies and damselflies. Glow-worms shone their extraordinary light on summer evenings in the top field with a family of kingfishers nearby. As the gardens at Spillifords took form so Gavin’s interest in the healing properties of flowers developed. He learned that the crimson clover is full of coumarin; similar to warfarin, it acts as an anti-coagulant which is good for thrombosis (although not particularly good for grazing cattle). I learn from Gavin that the juice derived from snapping the tall, rough, hairy stalks of the elegant field scabious will yield a juice that is used to exterminate the nasty little scabies mite that can cause extreme irritation by burrowing under the skin
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84 Exmoor Summer 2013
Well being (a likely place is just behind the ear) to lay her eggs. The name ‘scabious’ comes from scabiosa herba, the herb for treating scabies. As his knowledge and garden grew, so did Gavin’s reputation as naturalist and gardener and he has been featured on many TV and radio programmes. The more he studied and looked at gardens with a view to encouraging wildlife, the more he came to the conclusion that a wildlife garden is a very healing area. "They are places to arouse the senses," he told me. "Here you can hear birdsong, see the wild plants and touch and smell the perfumes arising from lavender, lemon balm, marjoram and rosemary. These herbs can be used for treating insect bites and give pain relief from arthritis. The more you explore these channels the more you realise there really is some value in herbal remedies." The members of Tiverton Football Club can vouch for this as they all extol the virtues of herbal massage oil, which Gavin uses. Gavin believes that "all in all gardens make for healing on many different levels" and he is the brains behind the creation of the
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Tiverton Hospital Wildlife Garden. The large windows allow patients to look out onto the level garden and a path (wide enough for wheelchair users) enables patients to come out into the garden on fine days to experience its treasures. A Devon bank provides the backdrop along which a guelder rose, blackthorn, holly and native trees have been planted, providing sanctuary for creatures of all kinds. Nestboxes for four different types of bird (and one insect) hang from a central black poplar tree. There is an arbour made from living willow with seating and another living willow cajoled into the form of a tree trunk. There used to be a resident hedgehog but, sadly, it has not been seen recently. The islands of flowers (Gavin went to great pains to get the limestone borders that mark out most of the beds) were planted to be attractive to wildlife: meadowsweet, lungwort, dame’s violet, hemp agrimony and oxeye daisy to name but a few. Spring flowers grace the margins among the stinging nettles that are allowed to grow on the bank (under supervision!) as they are a good source of food for small tortoiseshell, peacock and red admiral butterflies, while the coarse grasses such as cocksfoot and sweet
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"Everything in the garden works well because it is in harmony," Gavin told me. "Herbicides and pesticides should be avoided at all costs! If you are physically unwell, you are ‘out of balance’ and doctors and nurses try and get you back into balance. Get gardening," advises Gavin – "it’s so good for you!" Gavin has now left his beloved Spillifords (which is no longer open to the public) and is concentrating on his new garden in Bampton. Although somewhat smaller, it is home to his usual trademark of cramming as much in as you possibly can! The Tiverton Hospital Wildlife Garden opens to the public in May, which coincides with the Bampton Spring Festival. Gavin gives illustrated and informative talks about starting a wildlife garden and the healing properties to be found therein. Look out for ads placed locally.
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Exmoor Summer 2013 85
garden notes
Sweet Peas WORDS by Sheila Dearing, Garden Technical Services Officer, RHS Garden Rosemoor Annual sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) have long been a cottage garden favourite; THEY ARE available in a range of wonderful colours and many have a gorgeous scent. As well as the tall climbers, dwarf varieties are available for hanging baskets and containers or for ground cover.
Growing from seed Best grown as cordons, Spencer varieties need to be planted in a position where roots and shade from other plants will not interfere with growth. Grandifloras are more forgiving and will tolerate some competition, looking best when grown informally in a mixed border using wigwams as support.
No cottage garden is complete without sweet peas; they will add an unrivalled burst of colour and fragrance to any border. Useful as a scented screen to provide privacy around seating or to separate garden areas, you can mix and match different varieties providing almost infinite possibilities year on year.
86 Exmoor Summer 2013
Although seed can be sown in the autumn, Helen Round, Garden Manager at Rosemoor, recommends planting seeds singly in biodegradable root trainers in spring: “We usually sow around the middle of February with a bottom heat of 15°C; that way we can be fairly sure that the plants will be ready to plant out after the last frosts. We achieve good germination rates without breaking the hard seed coat, provided the seeds are kept moist. Be sure to protect from mice who find these seeds a tasty snack." Spring sowing also means that they rarely need to be pinched out.
Although seeds can be planted straight into the ground at this time of year Helen stresses that “this is something we would never do – if the mice don’t find the seed then the slugs are sure to devour the new shoots.” When the plants are a couple of inches tall (5cm), they are potted on into a one-litre pot and a small bamboo cane is placed in each pot to encourage the young sweet pea shoots to climb. If you do not want to raise from seed yourself, check your local garden centres and nurseries where young plants are often readily available.
Planting out “The importance of good soil preparation cannot be over emphasised," explains Helen. "In the autumn dig in some well-rotted manure or compost and site your plants in a sunny, open position. Just before planting in early May we apply a balanced fertiliser at a rate of 85gm2. Plant out at a spacing of about 8-12 inches (20-30cm), but don’t forget to harden them off for a week or so beforehand. It is sensible to place your supports where the plants will be easily accessible for dead heading and picking. Next to a path is ideal: this will also allow a greater appreciation of the wonderful scents. Watering in dry spells, regular picking and dead heading will ensure a good display throughout the summer." In the Cottage Garden at Rosemoor, we use hazel stick wigwams but in the Fruit and Vegetable Garden sweet peas are grown up rows of canes as you would runner beans; there is no need for netting but we do place small hazel sticks along the bottom of the row to encourage the plants to climb using their leaf tendrils. Sweet pea rings, readily available from garden centres, can also be used to give them guidance. If space is short, try a few plants amongst your runner beans; not only will they look attractive but they will encourage pollinating insects; essential for a good crop.
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Gardens
Filleigh, Nr South Molton, North Devon, EX32 0RH T: 01598 760336 (ext 1) E: gardens@castlehill-devon.com www.castlehilldevon.co.uk Fun for all the family - open daily except Saturdays 11am - 5pm Adults £5, Senior Citizens £4.50, Family £14.00, Children 5-15 £2.50, Groups (20+) £4.50 p.p. Refreshments available April - September. Lunches and teas can be ordered in advance for groups. Dogs on leads welcome.
Varieties to grow Sweet peas are available from many seed companies but Helen likes to use specialist suppliers of ‘old fashioned’, highly scented varieties (often referred to as ‘heirloom’). Peter Grayson of Chesterfield is one such supplier and this year we have ordered several varieties including ‘Captain of the Blues’ (bicolour of dark and light blue), ‘Janet Scott’ (clear pink) and ‘Black Knight’ (dark maroon). These were all introduced between 1891 and 1903 and are destined for the Fruit and Vegetable Garden. Lathyrus ‘Matucana’ (bicoloured crimson and violet) and ‘Painted Lady’ (bicoloured deep pink and white) are the garden team’s favourites and are reserved for the Cottage Garden which will also see some modern but highly scented Spencer varieties. These will include ‘Hi Scent’ (creamy coloured with violet-blue picotee edges), ‘Mollie Rilestone’ (cream with dusty pink picotee edges) and ‘Beaujolais’ (wine coloured). From left: Deep-blue sweet pea mixes with Achillea filipendulina 'Gold Plate' AGM and Ammi majus; athyrus 'Janet Scott' in the Fruit and Vegetable Garden; bicoloured Lathyrus 'Matucana' on hazel wigwams mixed with runner beans, poppies and sunflowers in the Cottage Garden; L. crimson sweet peas mix happily with other insect attarctors in the Fruit and Vegetable Garden. All courtesy RHS Rosemoor.
Exmoor Summer 2013 87
Gardens
Court House WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS by Rosemary Lauder
E
ast Quantoxhead is easy to miss. The busy A39 rushes past, and of the two narrow lanes, only one is signposted. Past pretty cottages, some of them thatched, the country lane arrives at a large duck pond. Here it ends, the continuation being the private drive that leads to Court House and the church. A field is used as a car park for the track that leads across a couple of fields to the coast and a pebbly beach. The old manor house of Court has dominated the little hamlet for long centuries. There have been Luttrells here since the eleventh century, and there are Luttrells here still. Until the 1970s, the main family residence was Dunster Castle, with Court House let to a tenant farmer. However, once Dunster became the property of the National Trust, the Luttrells returned to East Quantoxhead. It was quite natural that having left behind the magnificent gardens that surround Dunster Castle, the new occupants should turn their attention to the acres around the old manor. Sir Walter and Lady Luttrell devoted the next 30 years and more to creating a series of beautiful gardens from what were just kitchen gardens, orchards and farmland. Court House occupies a small hilltop overlooking the Bristol Channel. The land falls away in all directions so that the only flat area is immediately around the house, which has a sheltered, private courtyard, and a long terrace facing the sea. The first area to be transformed was the original kitchen garden, occupying the sheltered slope on the landward side. Here the drive rises from a cluster of lovely old farm buildings towards the church. There are a lot of walls around Court House, all of them soft local sandstone, capped with pantiles, and most of them hosting a climbing rose or honeysuckle; they add greatly to
88 Exmoor Summer 2013
the charm and atmosphere of intimacy. Part of the kitchen garden is still used for its original purpose, the edible interspersed with the decorative, reached through a gateway almost hidden by climbers. But the area that borders the walk to the church was completely transformed by Lady Luttrell, a keen and knowledgeable gardener. Here she planted intensively, laying out raised beds, with paved areas, paths and flights of steps. It is south-facing, and all kinds of tropical and tender species thrive in its sheltered micro-climate. Against the old stone walls is a collection of tender climbers, not just thriving but growing with a vigour to cause fits of envy in horticultural hearts – mimulus, Azara microphylla, Clianthus puniceus, grevillias, clematis – and a rare Acnistus australis, covered with drooping bluebells, and raised from seed by the head gardener, Terry Morrisey, many years ago. Lady Luttrell laid out a bed of peonies, recently replanted, and filled the rest of the garden with favourite herbaceous border plants – delphiniums, phlox, agapanthus, Crambe cordifolia, roses, irises, mallow, eryngiums, and many, many more. Colour is ensured throughout the year with stalwarts that include dahlias, Japanese anemones, hardy geraniums and hollyhocks, taking over from the spring display. If this area was largely the work of Lady Luttrell, then the woodland garden was planned by Sir Walter. Originally this was a five-acre pheasant-cover, but as his interest in shooting declined, he decided to clear the area and realised that once the tangle of brambles and fallen trees had been removed, he could ‘do something’ with what was left. Known as ‘the Allers’ – a corruption of alder – the soil in this area is damp and acidic, with high tree cover, and surrounded by a stream. Although much of Sir Walter’s planting has survived, the gales of 1994 took out many
of the carefully chosen trees, and he had to start again. Beneath the tree cover, rhododendrons and hydrangeas thrive, along with camellias, magnolias, several acers, and an underplanting of hostas, primulas, arum lilies, ferns and primroses. This was Sir Walter’s favourite area – and no wonder. It has a timeless atmosphere, a place set apart, peaceful and quiet, a truly secret garden. To the east of the house was an old cider orchard. Here the small stream was dammed to create a sizeable pond. An original gunnera has now reached mammoth proportions, and the other moisture-loving plants are equally at home. Specimen trees were carefully chosen and include acers, cornus, beech, a Paulownia and a Genista aetnensis. Across the track to the beach is one of the last areas to be developed – Lady Lutrell’s wild garden. In spring, drifts of bulbs flow down the slope beneath the old apple trees and more recently planted trees, many of which are host to climbing roses such as Rambling Rector and Wedding Day. Lady Luttrell also planted roses lavishly to hide what she considered an ugly length of iron railings bordering the main drive – now draped with a mixture that includes Penelope, Felicity, Buff Beauty and Zephirine Drouhin. Sir Walter died in 2007, and Lady Luttrell two years later. Both were well into their eighties and, inevitably, they could no longer garden in the same way as they once had. Their head gardener of 26 years, Terry Morrisey, was in retirement, although still living at the bottom of the hill. While the gardens were not exactly neglected, nothing much was done either. Then Hugh Luttrell, Sir Walter’s nephew, stepped in. The estate began a programme of major restoration to the old house and buildings, so that for well over a year it was hidden behind scaffolding, and Hugh Luttrell plunged into the gardens. The first thing he did was bring Terry Morrisey out of retirement to start the battle to bring the gardens back to life. Lady Luttrell’s colourful church borders had become very overgrown, but after painstaking work they are now approaching their former glory. Hugh Luttrell admits that his knowledge of gardening is not great, but he is learning fast. His main interest is in trees and forestry and he has plans for plantations up on the hills. Nearer to home, when he has time and the builders have departed, there are ideas afoot for the area around the old stables. These front the main drive where an old shrubbery has become overgrown, and it will be interesting to see what a fresh approach can achieve. The gardens that were so lovingly created were renowned in their day – worthy of an article in Country Life, and much admired by all the gardening pundits. The locals flocked to the gardens on the annual open days, and it is good to know that new life is being breathed into them, restoring them to their former glory and allowing them to become a worthy memorial to their creators. Parties are welcome by appointment, tel: 01278 741271.
Facing page: Lady Luttrell's church border. This page, from top: Formality at the entrance, planting for hot, dry conditions, woodland garden, a quiet corner, the walled vegetable garden.
Exmoor Summer 2013 89
WONDERFUL WALKS
& FANTASTIC FOOD Heddon Valley • exmoor • deVon • ex31 4py c 01598 763230 m info@tHeHuntersinn.net w www.tHeHuntersinn.net G tHeHuntersinnexmoor U @tHeHuntersinn
Fo r
A F RH dm ree S issi M on em be rs
Work up an appetite walking some of the UK’s best loved country routes, quench your thirst with one of our delicious home-brewed real ales then enjoy our modern English cuisine, prepared with fresh local ingredients by our award-winning chef…
RHS GARDEN ROSEMOOR SUMMER EVENTS A garden lover’s great day out with over 30 events and family workshops this summer including: PLOUGH ARTS CENTRE MUSIC EVENTS * ROSE WEEKEND - Superb fusion of scent & colour POETRY AND BOOK WEEK - Book Fair, readings & outdoor theatre VINTAGE WEEKEND - Antiques Fair, vintage vehicles & machinery GREAT GARDEN ADVENTURE - Puppet Shows, falconry, African drumming
31 May, 1, 28 & 29 June 22-23 June 14-19 July 20-21 July 27 July - 1 Sep
Normal garden admission except * where other charges apply Great Torrington, Devon, EX38 8PH 01805 626800 rhs.org.uk/rosemoor Follow us Images Credit © RHS
90 Exmoor Summer 2013
Reg. Charity No. 222879/SC038262
In the Stableyard
New Para Equestrian Endurance Class The Golden Horseshoe May 2013
WORDS by Cindy Cowling
F
or the first time ever, para riders have been invited to take part in a dedicated Para Equestrian Endurance Class at this year's Golden Horseshoe Ride on Exmoor organised by Barbara Wigley, and in association with Riding for the Disabled and Endurance GB. Competing over a distance of 25km/15 miles, the route will cover Exmoor’s now-infamous terrain and pose the same types of challenges as other classes. Each para rider will be accompanied by a volunteer member from Endurance GB and organisers will consider the requirements of para riders when arranging facilities and access. Event organiser Barbara Wigley said: "This class is by free invitation and some riders are travelling considerable distances in order to compete here. Endurance is an all-inclusive sport with great camaraderie. The determination of our para riders is inspiring. The Golden Horseshoe has a reputation for being tough and many able-bodied riders baulk at the idea. I hope the para class will help demonstrate just how determined and resilient our para riders are." With training rides taking place leading up to the Golden Horseshoe, I caught up with a local friend and para rider, Sarah Takle, who has been working hard to prepare. "Personally, for me, it has been a journey," Sarah tells me. "When I had my accident, aged nine, my life suddenly changed." Sarah was riding her pony when it spooked at a pheasant and her subsequent fall left her with a fractured skull and fighting for her life. "Thankfully, Mum was with me at the time. She raised the alarm and (this was before the day of air ambulances) took me by car to Musgrove Park Hospital in Taunton. Sarah spent many
Sarah and her horse Tom by Ian Wigley weeks in Intensive Care, was transferred to Frenchay Hospital and subsequently to the John Radcliffe Hospital in Oxfordshire where, Sarah says, "they saved my life." She underwent reconstructive surgery and, in total, missed about a year of school. Her left eye couldn’t be saved and today she receives medication for epilepsy. "I have always been a determined person and sometimes I think things happen for a reason. In an odd way I think my accident has made me a better person; kinder, more compassionate." Despite prolonged hospital treatment throughout her childhood, Sarah went on to gain a degree in graphic design and qualified as a teacher. She is married to a farmer and has two girls. "My love of horses and Exmoor has remained and always will. My current horse is a 15.2hh Connemara x Thoroughbred and he is a superstar. He is a wonderful all-rounder and, having taken part in the training ride recently, I felt a huge sense of achievement as well as receiving a massive confidence boost. For me, Endurance is a win-win sport. You have to train hard and ensure both you and your horse are fit – but the sense of achievement and fulfilment is amazing. My horse and I now share a very special bond. Also, I have met lots of great new people and the camaraderie within the sport is fantastic." I would like to wish Sarah and fellow para riders the very best of luck for their endurance ride in May. I would also like to thank Sarah for being such an inspiration and all-round stunning girl! Sarah says that she has "always wanted to give something back to the team of specialists at the Radcliffe Hospital," and I think she probably has!
Exmoor Summer 2013 91
Exmoor Directory DON'T PANIC! AR Computing offer friendly computer support and advice
01643 707381
We specialise in: Virus and spyware removal, Upgrades and Repairs, Printer paper and inks, Peripherals and other computer, equipment and supplies
Image by Jane A. Mares
In the Stableyard
‘In the Heart of Exmoor Country’
WA NTED
Burrowhayes Farm Riding Stables
Cash paid for all old fishing tackle. Reels • Rods • Fly tins • Cased Fish Books • Angling Medals & Trophies. Will Collect. Private Collector.
Escorted rides on Dunkery, Ley Hill & Selworthy Children's ponies for parents to walk & lead Licensed by W.S.D.C • Open from Easter to end of October Also popular family camping site • Just 1 mile east of Porlock off A39
FISHING TACKLE
01934 520543
Computer services for business and home
Tel: 01643 862463
West Luccombe, Porlock, Somerset TA24 8HT • www.burrowhayes.co.uk
LUXURY FARMHOUSE B&B
8 Friday Street, Minehead
Cornerstone Projects
AA 4-star rated
“garden and pond designers and creators”
Landscape & pond design creation•maintenance•management
Full, part and DIY livery available
“for glorious gardens and perfect ponds”
01643 709091
www.cornerstoneprojects.biz
Call: 01598 740528 www.taborhillfarm.co.uk Tabor Hill Farm, Heasley Mill, South Molton, Devon EX36 3LQ
Of Minehead
Doors Windows Patio Doors Conservatories Secondary Glazing
ARAB HORSES FOR SALE
Barden Works, Brunel Way, Minehead Enterprise Park, Minehead, Somerset. TA24 5BY
from
www.exmoorwindows.co.uk
Advertise in Exmoor Magazine from just £27! Find out more: tel. 01392 201227.
by Andy Stuthridge
BROFORD FARM STUD
Individual Savings Account (ISA)
Investments Savings Life Assurance Inheritance Tax Planning Critical Illness Insurance Pension & Retirement Planning (Annuities) Lynton: 01598 753777 Barnstaple: 01271 321444 www.lynfinancialservices.co.uk INDEPENDENT FINANCIAL ADVISERS
92 Exmoor Summer 2013
Our horses are bred for endurance riding, racing or enjoyable hacking. Come and visit with no obligation to buy.
Tel: 01398 (Dulverton) 323569
PITLEIGH
BOARDING KENNELS & CATTERY WHEDDON CROSS, MINEHEAD, SOMERSET, TA24 7BG
Telephone: 01643 841122 Prop: Miss K. (Sue) Brown
Private Fenced Estate Woodland walks (no roadwork) Heated Kennels Relaxed, friendly atmosphere Long or short stays Special Diets catered for Collection/delivery Service Vaccinated Dogs only
HOME OF THE HARTCLEEVE WEIMARANERS
LAWHORSE Roger Everett (Dip WCF) Exmoor Farriery Practice.
Chloe and foal.
Lyddonscroft Horse Transport – Chloe Norman If you are looking for a safe, smart and reliable way to transport your horse or pony, I can personally recommend Chloe Norman and her business Lyddonscroft Horse Transport. Chloe was my saviour when my lovely mare Rosie needed to be transported to Western Counties Equine Hospital with suspected grass sickness. As I had my leg in plaster at the time I was unable to drive, but Chloe took over and was brilliant in every sense of the word. Chloe started her business Lyddonscroft Horse Transport in 2008, and currently has a new 3.5 tonne, two-horse Super-Lite 35XL built by Boss Horseboxes. She says: "I chose this horsebox as it has a light and airy interior and has several design features that make it as low stress and as safe to transport horses as possible, as well as giving a smooth and comfortable ride. "I am available to drive nationally, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, all year round. I offer a bespoke, door-to-door service and, for young or nervous travellers, I can arrange to visit, practising loading/ unloading and accustoming the horse to the horsebox before they are expected to travel. The horsebox is thoroughly cleansed after each journey, ensuring there is no chance of spreading infectious disease." Chloe holds the legally-required Transport Competence Test, is DEFRA authorised and has a National Diploma in Equine & Business Studies, BHS Stg 2 and NVQ Level 2. Not only this, but she has comprehensive experience of working for top studs and hunt yards and is a successful producer of Arabian horses. Chloe is in fact a very modest lady and I had to wheedle out of her that she shows in-hand and under saddle. "I have a passion for Arabs," she tells me, "and I currently have ten, ranging from yearlings up to riding horses and a stallion. As a breed, they are very humanised and just want to be with you. One of my favourite shows in the calendar is the Arab National Championships held at Malvern. This year I plan to compete with several of my homebreds." I would like to wish Chloe good luck with her horses and business. If you want the best transportation experience for yourself and your horse(s) I can recommend Chloe! Find out more at: www.lyddonscrofthorsetransport.co.uk or get in touch by email: chloe@lyddonscrofthorsetransport.co.uk, tel. 01398 371333 or mobile 07789 904631.
Loaning your horse Jill Headford
H
orse owners sometimes consider loaning out their horse due to a change in personal circumstances, lack of time or funds or because it can no longer do its job. This may be very attractive to someone who wants a horse 'of their own' but doesn’t want to buy one. Unfortunately, ideas of how the loan arrangement will work can be very mismatched. If you are considering loaning your horse, even to a friend, you should have a written agreement to avoid misunderstandings. Your primary concern will be the welfare of your horse and it is vital to agree basics such as where it will be kept, the length of the loan and what the horse will be used for (ie, will your four-legged friend be a companion, a hack or a hunter, a competition horse or will he or she be used for breeding?). Can only a named rider ride the horse or may others too? And can it be loaned on by the person to whom it has been loaned? If the loan is open-ended, how much notice will be required for either party to terminate it and will they need to give a reason? For peace of mind, you may want to consider visiting rights. You will want to agree the location where the horse will be kept and ensure you are happy (is the fencing/stabling/ grazing adequate?) and you should put this address into the agreement so that the horse cannot be moved without your consent. Once on loan, the loanee is entitled to enjoy the horse as if it were theirs but should understand that you may want to see (or occasionally ride) your horse. Provisions for visits at reasonable times and on reasonable notice should be incorporated into your loan agreement. The 'running costs' of the horse are usually met by the loanee. This includes feed, grazing, stabling, vet fees, farriery, etc. You may want to consider specifying the vet to be used and whether you are to be notified of major surgery – is there to be an emergency procedure and will the owner pay/contribute if major surgery/ongoing medication is required? If you are loaning your horse to a commercial establishment you also need to bear in mind whether you want him or her to be used for hire/reward. If including tack, you may want to think about insurance and agree in what state the tack should be returned.
Insurance is a major point to discuss. As the owner you should take out the policy yourself (allowing you to retain control) but you can pass on the premium fee to the loanee. Joint policies may also be an idea. Ensure that the loanee also has their own insurance for accidents to them or the horse. Your insurance policy should cover the death of the horse and you need to agree who will be responsible for disposal and who receives any benefits from the policy. Because so much can go wrong, we advise people not to go ahead without a signed agreement which, above all, will protect the welfare of your horse. For advice and a sensible loan contract in Plain English, contact Jill at j.headford@tozers.co.uk or call 01392 207020. Exmoor Summer 2013 93
Summer Diary 2013 Introduction Our Diary is intended to give a small sample of the type of events taking place across the area this summer. There are a number of useful online diaries and resources which we refer you to in the list of websites. ENPA's Exmoor Visitor also contains diary listings. The sample dates here are submitted to us and as far as we are aware the information is correct at the time of going to press. Contact details are included so that you can check events nearer the time. Please email your autumn diary dates to naomi@lighthousecommunications.co.uk by the start of July 2013. Images this page Jane A. Mares
June
July
2nd Saturdays of the Month & 4th (Not August) Saturdays of the month CONCERT Shammick Acoustic, Pack o’ Cards, High Street, Combe Martin. Tel: 01271 882366. www.shammickacoustic.org.uk
Thursday 4 NIGHTJAR WALK, DUNSTER With an ENPA Ranger, seeking out nightjars and more under starlit skies. Nutcombe Bottom, 8.30pm. Tel. 01398 323841.
Saturday 1 - Sunday 2 VINTAGE RALLY, SOUTH MOLTON www.smoltonvintagerally.co.uk Sunday 2 STRAWBERRY FAIR, COMBE MARTIN Monday 3 - Friday 7 WALKING & DANCING, HALSWAY MANOR Combine beautiful walks in the Quantocks and Exmoor with folk dancing in the evenings. Tel. 01984 618274. Saturday 8 - Sunday 16 VICTORIAN WEEK, ILFRACOMBE Parades, magic shows, garden parties in front of the Bandstand, Boots and Saddles Western Re-enactment Group raid, fireworks display, Grand Ball (Saturday), local residents in Victorian costume and more! Tel. 01271 863001. Saturday 8 Monksilver FÊte, EMN Hall £1 adults, children free. Wheelchair accessible. 2pm. Tel. 01984 656664.
May Saturday 4 - Saturday 22 June SIMONSBATH FESTIVAL, SIMONSBATH Concerts, maypole dancing, talks, many guided walks (including night walk), activity workshops. Programme on www.simonsbathfestival.co.uk Friday 24 - Monday 27 (Whitsun) FOLK FESTIVAL, DULVERTON Concerts, workshops, dancing, storytelling sessions and campsite. More info: www.dulvertonfolkfestival.net
Sunday 16 PLOUGHMANS FOR PAPA, ARLINGTON COURT A tasty treat for Father's Day in our tea room. More info on 01271 850296, arlingtoncourt@nationaltrust.org.uk Monday 17 - Friday 21 BUTTERFLIES & MOTHS COURSE, HALSWAY MANOR World-renowned butterfly and moth expert and author David Brown leads a week of field trips, workshops and lectures focusing on rare and native species. Tel. 01984 618274.
Saturday 29 Sunday 26 - Friday 31 'SOUPSTOCK', KNIGHTSHAYES EARLY MUSIC WEEK, HALSWAY MANOR 12-4pm: Celebration of food and live Voices, viols & recorders. Tel: 01984 618274 music in the parkland with a competition to make the best soup – free. Tel. 01884 Wednesday 29 - Saturday 1 June 254665, knightshayes@nationaltrust.org.uk 150TH ROYAL BATH & WEST SHOW, SHEPTON MALLET Finest livestock, agricultural machinery, trade stands, locally produced food and drink plus activities for all the family. More info on www.bathandwest.com
94 Exmoor Summer 2013
by Heather Holt
Sunday 30 OUTDOOR THEATRE, ARLINGTON The Pantaloons with Sherlock Holmes. More info on 01271 850296, arlingtoncourt@nationaltrust.org.uk
Sunday 7 - Saturday 20 ART EXHIBITION, DULVERTON Dulverton Art Group, Dulverton Heritage Centre – free. Tel. 07969 243887. Sunday 7 PAWS AT THE COURT, ARLINGTON Braunton Dog Club host this dog show in aid of charity 'Pets as therapy'. Rosettes for 1st-6th place, with classes for pedigree, family dog and obedience. 01271 850296, arlingtoncourt@nationaltrust.org.uk Friday 12 THE HOUND OF THE BASKERVILLES, KNIGHTSHAYES Bring a picnic. Evening event. Tel. 01884 254665, knightshayes@nationaltrust.org.uk Saturday 13 ALL THINGS MORRIS, ILFRACOMBE Morris Car Show and Morris dancing on seafront, at The Quay and about town. Tel. TIC on 01271 863001 for more info. Sunday14 RACE FOR LIFE, TAUNTON 11am-7pm Join the fight to beat cancer, running, walking, dancing or by sponsoring. raceforlife.cancerresearchuk.org Wednesday 17 BOAT TRIPS, LYNMOUTH Looking for rare nesting seabirds along Exmoor’s dramatic coastline with EPNA Ranger. To book call 01598 752509. Saturday 20 SUMMER SHOW, PORLOCK Village Hall: Displays, comps, refreshments. www.porlockhortisoc.weebly.com Wednesday 24 HADDON HILL BIG ADVENTURE Family games and events: moorland safari, learn bush-craft skills, ‘Exmoor Beast Hunt’. Free event. Tel. 01398 323841. Saturday 27 FISH ‘N CHIPS & ALE TRAIN, MINEHEAD 20-mile steam journey from Bishops Lydeard at 6.30pm with free pint of Quantock Brewery Beer. 01643 704996. Monday 29 - Saturday 3 August MINEHEAD & EXMOOR MUSIC FESTIVAL Orchestral. www.mineheadfestival.com
Where to find out more...
Friday 2 - Saturday 3 TAUNTON SHOW, VIVARY PARK 2,000 exhibits in classes of home-grown fruit, vegetables and flowers, crafts, photography, cookery, wine, etc. 11am-6pm.
ACTIVE EXMOOR
Saturday 3 CULBONE STONE OPEN DAY, PORLOCK Educational visit to this famous stone, said to be 3,000 years old. Tel. 07772 989934.
ENPA
Saturday 3 & Sunday 4 STEAM FAYRE & VINTAGE VEHICLE RALLY, NORTON FITZWARREN 25th rally of vintage cars, motorcycles, fire engines, military and commercial vehicles, steam engines, stalls, trade entertainments, refreshments. 10am-5pm. 01643 704996. Sundays 4, 11 & 18 'SOUPSTOCK', KNIGHTSHAYES 12-4pm: celebration of amazing food and great live music in the parkland with a competition to make the best soup from seasonal local veg – free entry. Tel. 01884 254665, knightshayes@nationaltrust.org.uk Wednesday 7 NORTH DEVON SHOW, UMBERLEIGH 8.30am-6pm www.northdevonshow.com Saturday 10 - Saturday 17 CARNIVAL WEEK, COMBE MARTIN www.combemartincarnival.com Sunday 11 PORLOCK COUNTRY FAIR, PORLOCK Stalls, activities, sideshows and displays. Tel. Porlock Visitor Centre: 01643 863150. Wednesday 14 EXFORD SHOW, EXFORD Horse and pony classes, sheep, dog show, crafts, stands, catering. More info on 01598 710512 or www.exfordshow.co.uk Wednesday 21 Withypool Flower Show & FÉte 2.30pm. Traditional stalls and sideshows, refreshments and raffle.
VILLAGE LIFE
www.activeexmoor.com Twitter: @ActiveExmoor fb: Active Exmoor
www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk (a very useful diary for events across the area) Tel. 01398 323665 Twitter: @ExmoorNP fb: Exmoor National Park
EXMOOR SOCIETY www.exmoorsociety.com Tel. 01398 323335 E. info@exmoorsociety.com
EQUINE
www.horseeventsuk.com
FOOD & DRINK
A list of regular farmers' markets is available on the Visit Exmoor site: www.visit-exmoor.co.uk/food-and-drink
GENERAL WEBSITES www.visit-exmoor.co.uk www.everythingexmoor.org.uk www.quantockhills.com
NATIONAL TRUST
www.nationaltrust.org.uk/southwest Twitter: @NTSouthWest fb: National Trust South West
STAGE & SCREEN
barnstaple.scottcinemas.co.uk www.bidefordfilmsociety.org.uk www.lyntoncinema.co.uk www.merlincinemas.co.uk www.northdevontheatres.org.uk www.theploughartscentre.org.uk regaltheatre.co.uk wellington.reelcinemas.co.uk
The following websites include events listings. If you have a community website which is up to date and includes events listings but which is not listed here please get in touch. We would like to include a current site for every area. www.appledore.org www.bampton.org.uk www.barnstaplepeople.co.uk www.bidefordpeople.co.uk www.bishopslydeard.org.uk www.bromptonregis.com www.brushfordparish.com www.visitcombemartin.com www.kingsnympton.org.uk www.luxborough.org.uk www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk www.visitlynton.co.uk www.minehead.co.uk www.northmoltonvillage.co.uk www.porlock.co.uk www.quantockonline.co.uk www.visitsouthmolton.co.uk www.timberscombe.org www.tivertonpeople.co.uk www.watchetonline.co.uk www.wheddoncross.org.uk www.wiveliscombe.com
Photograph by Naomi Cudmore
August
VISUAL ARTS www.devonartistnetwork.co.uk www.crafts.org.uk www.creativesomerset.com www.somersetartworks.org.uk www.somersetguild.co.uk If you know of a regularly updated, accurate site which you would like to suggest we include, please email the editor (see page 6 for details). Priority will be given to non-commercial sites. To advertise call 01392 201227.
Keep Exmoor Special
Join us and help conserve Exmoor now and for future generations. A voluntary organisation founded in 1958. We support the purpose of the national park status and are constantly on guard to protect Exmoor's special qualities.
Local Art, Crafts & Food
We want family farms to survive and the villages to be places where the Exmoor people can earn a living and afford to live. We encourage people to enjoy outdoor activity and experience wild open country, tranquillity and well-being.
For further details of our aims and benefits to members apply to Exmoor Society, Parish Rooms, Dulverton, Somerset TA22 9DP tel 01398 323335
www.exmoorsociety.com
Exmoor Summer 2013 95
Final Paws
Pip, the Duck Dog WORDS by Mary Bromiley
T
here are collies, and then there are very special collies. Pip, a six-year-old, black-and-white Border Collie bitch, is of the latter category. As most collies live as farm dogs, earning their keep shepherding, does it really matter what they look like? Not really, although those trained to compete in sheepdog trials do need good conformation as well as strength of character. Some travel all over England to partake in Maltese Cross and Driving classes. The Maltese Cross has hurdles arranged in the configuration of a cross, and sheep must be driven through the narrow arms, necessitating incredible dog control.
Driving requires the dog to find and collect a small group of strange sheep, usually five in number. Then, in response to a series of commands, given by voice or whistle, the dog must herd them through a series of gaps in a line of hurdles, known as gates. It must then drive the mini flock around a post where their handler stands, separate off a single sheep, re-group the five and persuade them to enter a pen. Born in the Quantocks, Pip’s breeding should have been 'Trial impeccable', her official father being Rock, a Trials Champion, and her mother, June, having been carefully selected. The resulting litter, however, makes one wonder if June might have had a clandestine affair because her pups did not conform; a black-and-white group had been expected, but there were tri-colours, reds, long tails and curled tails – of which
96 Exmoor Summer 2013
Pip's was the most remarkable, set high with a pom-pom end! As there were no obvious trial champions in that litter, homes were required, and thus Pip arrived at Combeleigh, near Wheddon Cross, to learn from Old Bob, who was nearing retirement. As a puppy she was little trouble, she moved in quietly, ate what was on offer and found the cosy place near the Aga. There was the occasional accident but the other dogs were so upset at the appearance of a puddle that she rapidly learned to use the cat flap. Her only fault appeared when she grew old enough to follow the quad bike; as her owner reached for the keys she became, and I understand still becomes, hysterical – screaming through the cat flap, twirling like a whirling dervish, pulling grass and rushing hither and thither. If she was made to sit on the bike she screeched. Once the bike started she settled, and gradually she began to work with sheep, never in a hurry, becoming a useful dog although possibly not quite strong enough to deal with a contrary flock member. On occasions she incurred displeasure when, rather than wait while the sheep were being wormed or having their feet trimmed, she would slip quietly home, cooling off in the pond, hopping through the cat flap to lie, a picture of innocence in her bed, paws over tight-shut eyes, not even reacting to the sound of the quad arriving to collect her.
Her cooling pond at Combeleigh heads a series of channels originally utilised to water fields in times of drought. Down the years these leats have all but disappeared. The call ducks, introduced to keep the pond clear of weed, were luckily ignored by Pip. Unfortunately one night a polecat arrived, ate the sitting duck and all of her eggs, which had been about to hatch, leaving a distraught drake. Replacements were sought, but none were found until, at a poultry sale, two ducks were spotted, each in a cage clearly labelled 'call duck'. Back at Combeleigh they were enclosed on the pond, sleeping at night in a predator-proof house. After three weeks they were allowed to range free to join and cheer up the lone drake. The only problem was how to get them into their house at night? An idea was born. Pip rounded sheep, so why not ducks? Taken to the pond and told ‘away, away,’ she waded in and, treading carefully, she dutifully herded the ducks to bed! The reward of a sweetie was much appreciated and, now, whenever the sweetie jar appears, Pip pops out through the cat flap into the pond. Sadly hopes of ducklings in the spring vanished, each purchase having grown a tail curl, testament to some very poor labelling at the sale! They were not duck ducks, but drakes! But no matter, they are still put to bed at Combeleigh each night as Pip would miss her sweeties.