SalonEVO UK & Ireland Issue 17 (September/October 2023)

Mineral oil-infused ceramic with the heat conductivity of gold, for super-smooth styling and long-lasting, shiny hair.

Create your own customised Trimmer, Clipper or Foil Shaver.

With a choice of 10 colours and personalised engraving, you can customise your tools to suit your creativity, personality, and style.

CRAZY COLOR

THINK OUTSIDE THE BOTTLE COLLECTION

Hair// Sophia Hilton, Not Another Salon.

Photography// Chris Bulezuik. Stylist// Twinks Burnett.

Make-up// MV Brown.

Models// Jessica Wilcock, Sadie Clayton, Mike Katz, Rhea.

PROJECT EXTEND ROOTS COLLECTION

Photography//

ANDREW BREWSTER & DAVID FOSTER | CO-FOUNDERS

So, what have we done well? This year, we’re extremely proud to say that we’ve created media zones for some of the biggest hair and beauty events in North America, including Premiere Orlando, the NAHAs, America’s Beauty Show, and CT Barber Expo. We also hosted our first ever event, ‘Evo On The Road’ with BaByliss PRO in Liverpool – and we hope to deliver many more in the coming 18 months or so.

Next, let’s look at what we can do better. One of our huge features in this issue is on Textured hair, which is an integral part of our industry that isn’t really getting the recognition it deserves. For this to improve, everyone must acknowledge their shortcomings and strategise how to improve – that includes us! Our goal has always been to represent the voices and talents of Black and ethnic minority professionals through interviews, collections, covers, and product/brand recommendations. Our team absolutely loved picking the brains of some of the UK’s most celebrated Textured

WHAT ARE WE DOING NEXT?

hair specialists, learning about the history, techniques, and benefits that Textured and Afro hair services offer for every stylist and business owner – whether that’s creatively or lucratively. Our Editor, Jennifer, gives you some insight on the next page!

Finally, let’s look at what we’re doing next! We are currently existing in an incredibly exciting era for EVO Enterprises. Our team is growing as we continue to ramp up our event schedule and increase our media presence across the global hair and beauty industry. We’ve had a few weeks to reset after a hectic summer of events (we loved every second) and have some huge plans for the remainder of 2023 and into 2024.

NOW is the time to level-up your business – if we can do it, you definitely can! Keep reading to find out exactly how to enrich your career and push the boundaries of what you’re capable of. As always, you can reach out to us on Instagram @salonevomag and Facebook at SalonEVO Magazine, or email us at info@salon-evo.com

GOODBYE SUMMER, HELLO AUTUMN! QUARTER FOUR IN THE BUSINESS CALENDAR IS JUST AROUND THE CORNER, SO IT’S TIME TO TAKE STOCK AND CONSIDER: WHAT HAVE WE DONE WELL, WHAT CAN WE DO BETTER, AND

WELCOME TO SALONEVO UK & IRELAND ISSUE 17! WE ARE FALLING HEAD OVER HEELS FOR AUTUMN IN THIS ISSUE, WITH COLOURFUL INSPIRATION TO GET THOSE CREATIVE JUICES FLOWING, BUSINESS ADVICE FOR THE NEXT QUARTER, AND THE LATEST INDUSTRY NEWS.

Well, I can’t say much for that summer we just had here in the UK & Ireland, but I hope most of you got a chance to recharge, relax and get energised for the season to come. I am more of an Autumn gal myself, and who wouldn’t be with all of the stunning colour and styling trends that are dominating this season!? Who is ready to pumpkin spice up their life?

Calling all curly girls! This issue we dive into the world of texture, from coily to wavy to straight, getting educated and informed on working with all hair textures opens up your potential and creative abilities. It also ensures a more inclusive and diverse industry, which is what we are all working toward. Learn from some of the best in the biz in

Looking for other ways to extend your skillset? Well, look no further as extensions are one of the most versatile skills you can bring into a salon. Whether you are adding temporary extensions for a photoshoot or red-carpet event, or you are wanting to add another level of luxury to your salon, bring on the wow factor with extensions.

Next up, we talk about business and finance. I know, it doesn’t sound like the sexiest subject, but what’s more beautiful than a thriving business? We have advice from leading educators like Maddi Cook

Sophia Hilton , Liz McKeon , Laura Leigh Kerr, and even our friends from across the Nina Tulio and Anna Manukyan . Its back-toschool time people, get your pencils out!

JENNIFER PAXTON | EDITOR

Short

The Oribe legacy follows a journey of true creativity, authenticity, and mastery and this year, the iconic haircare brand Oribe celebrates 15 years of product innovations and creative excellence. When industry veteran Daniel Kaner and legendary hairstylist Oribe Canales launched Oribe Hair Care in 2008, the goal was to create products that didn’t yet exist: a luxurious collection that took its cues from cuttingedge skincare technology, high-end design and heritage craftsmanship.

Named after one of the most sought-after celebrity hairstylists in the world, Oribe Canales was famous for creating the sexy, statement hair that became synonymous with the rise of the ‘90s supermodel.

Oribe’s namesake graced the runways of nearly every well-known designer and the covers of

SCHWARZCOPF PROFESSIONAL INNOVATE CONSULTATIONS WITH NEW HAIRCARE TECHNOLOGY

major fashion magazines worldwide, as well as countless international ad campaigns and commercials.

Now, they’re a respected developer of truly top-tier fragrances, creams, bodycare, and haircare. Every product is built with the aim of rejuvenating hair to its prime. They are committed to sustainable packaging, and encouraging replenishment and replacement of their bottles.

Find a limited-edition anniversary set of the most iconic shampoos, conditioners, transformative masques, hair oils, texturising sprays, hairsprays, detanglers, primers, thickening sprays... Oribe has one of everything! Find out more at oribe.com

DENMAN ANNOUNCES REGIONAL WINNERS OF THE GLOBAL STAGE STAR 2023 COMPETITION

Four talented hairdressers from across the globe have been selected as the regional winners of Denman Global Stage Star 2023. Congratulations go to Emma Dixon Stage Star UK & Ireland Winner, Jalia Pettis Stage Star USA Winner, Christine Alves Stage Star Europe Winner and Nobu Hirahara Stage Star Asia Winner. National Stage Star competitions took place in each region and each winner was ultimately chosen after presenting live on Instagram for the Denman judges.

Each regional winner has won a year’s worth of Denman goodies and £1000 (local equivalent) towards any education of their choice plus an all expenses paid trip to London to compete on stage

for the Global title. On Monday October 16th at Salon International Excel, the regional winners will present live on the main stage to showcase their skill and grab their chance to be crowned the Global Stage Star 2023. The ultimate winner will receive additional prizes including an all-expenses paid professional collection photoshoot with award winning photographer Des Murray, plus a trip to the Denman factory in Northern Ireland and one international event.

The Denman Stage Star Competition is now in its 10th year and was conceived to offer fresh and upcoming stage talent their moment to shine. Denman Stage Star will open in late spring 2024.

Schwarzkopf Professional have launched innovative hyper-personalised haircare brand SalonLab&Me into the UK.

After the rollout in Germany, Switzerland and Austria, Schwarzkopf Professional is expanding its pioneering new business model to new markets, with advanced new features for an enhanced in-salon and at-home experience.

Team SalonEVO attended the UK opening of Schwarzkopf Professional’s award-winning SalonLab Smart Analyzer in London earlier this year. The innovative technology combines hairdresser expertise with data-driven insights to provide a truly personalised haircare recommendation for clients.

Salon clients can receive a unique haircare prescription, matching their exact hair type, while hairdressers can explore an exciting new business model for their salon. Based on data-driven innovation, SalonLab&Me lets salons and their clients enter a new era of personalised haircare.

How does it work?

1. SalonLab Analysis

The stylist fills out an in-app questionnaire detailing the client’s hair history and goals. The stylist uses the SalonLab Smart Analyzer to analyse the inner hair strength.

2. Hyper-Personalised Product Recommendation

The client receives a personalised product recommendation, matching their individual hair needs and goals.

3. Customisation

The products can be further customised with the client’s name and selected colour on the labels, as well as their preferred fragrance.

4. Checkout and Sign-up

The order process is fully digitalised –clients can purchase their individual products directly online.

THE LEADING B2B EVENT IN ASIA-PACIFIC FOR ALL SECTORS OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY

COSMOPROF-ASIA.COM

HONG KONG

14 – 16 NOVEMBER 2023

ASIAWORLD-EXPO

15 – 17 NOVEMBER 2023

HONG KONG CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTRE

SALES OFFICE ASIA, OCEANIA

Informa Markets, Hong Kong

P +852 3709 4988

cosmoprofasia-hk@informa.com

SALES OFFICE EUROPE, AFRICA, THE AMERICAS, ISRAEL, LEBANON, TURKEY

BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a.

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MARKETING AND PROMOTION

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F +39 02 795 036 info@cosmoprof.it

BOLOGNA, HONG KONG, LAS VEGAS, MUMBAI, BANGKOK, MIAMI

ORGANISER – COSMOPROF ASIA LTD

THE WEEKLY PODCAST FOR HAIR PROFESSIONALS CUT TO THE NEWS

SalonEVO is teaming up with industry icon, Dom Lehane, who you may know from the incredibly popular, How to Cut It Podcast! We are excited to share that Dom is releasing a brand-new podcast called Cut to the News, which will aim to bring the latest news from the world of professional hair. Each issue of SalonEVO UK, Dom will round up some of his top stories, and together we will ensure that you are caught up with all the latest happenings through your eyes and ears!

A Note from Dom: “Join me every Friday for the brand-new Cut to the News podcast as I dive into the latest news from the world of professional hair. Whether you're a seasoned stylist or just starting out, Cut to the News podcast has something for everyone. So, grab your headphones and get ready to stay ahead of the curve with our weekly dose of hair industry news and insights. Let's Cut to the News! Don't forget to subscribe and tune in each week to Cut to the News, available on all major podcast platforms.”

SALON OWNERS GEAR UP FOR SALON GOLD IN SEPTEMBER

After three years of relentless struggle, salon owners are on the cusp of a significant breakthrough as they head into arbitration with Salon Gold this September. Fuelled by the financial setbacks caused by lockdowns and their business interruption insurance, salon owners have united under the banner of RLK Solicitors & Barristers , affectionately known as the "big balls team," to confront Salon Gold's response.

The arbitration case, slated to begin on September 27th in London, is eagerly anticipated by salon owners like Collette Osborne. She shared her anticipation, remarking, "I cannot wait to see the whites of their eyes." This legal battle represents more than just monetary compensation; it signifies the determination of small business owners to hold larger entities accountable.

This impending showdown resonates as a tale of resilience and unity, underscoring the unyielding spirit of entrepreneurs determined to secure justice even in the face of adversity. As September approaches, the story of these salon owners continues to inspire, reminding us of the strength that emerges when a community stands together.

DARREL STARKEY AND ALEX COOK

GEAR UP TO REPRESENT THE UK AT MCB BEAUTÉ

SÉLECTION

Darrel Starkey and Alex Cook are gearing up to represent the UK in the highly anticipated MCB Beauté Sélection event on September 11, 2023, at Porte de Versailles Paris Expo. Selected by the esteemed mentor Emma Simmons through a rigorous process, the talented duo secured their spots after impressing with their artistic prowess. Alongside six other emerging talents, they will have three hours backstage to refine their looks before a riveting 20-minute on-stage presentation. The stakes are high, with awards including the Audience Award and the coveted Emerging Talent 2023 title, which comes with €3000 for a November show in Paris. Darrel and Alex are honing their skills and innovative visions as they prepare to showcase their talent on an international stage.

ONE STEP CLOSER TO REVERSING MALE PATTERN BALDNESS

As a bald man, my attention was truly captured by a recent Instagram post from the renowned Consultant Dermatologist and hair specialist, Dr. Sharon Wong (@drsharonwong).

MicroRNA Treatment Shows Promise in Stimulating Hair Growth, Northwestern University Study Reveals"

In a remarkable advancement that could change the lives of millions suffering from male pattern baldness, scientists at Northwestern University have unveiled a groundbreaking study that brings us one step closer to reversing hair loss. The discovery involves the use of microRNA to stimulate hair growth, a development that has captured the attention of the hair care and medical communities alike.

This game-changing study reveals their success in coaxing stem cells for hair growth in mice, likening it to freeing up stiff joints. By boosting microRNA production, they achieved remarkable hair growth in both young and old mice within a mere 10 days! Though it's early days and human trials are ahead, this breakthrough could just be the answer many of us have been hoping for against male pattern baldness.

As the scientific community continues to delve into the potential applications of

microRNA-based treatments, it is clear that this study by Northwestern University has set the stage for a new era in hair restoration. While the journey from laboratory breakthrough to mainstream treatment may still be a long one, the progress made so far offers hope and inspiration to those who have long yearned for a

THE KNOT DR® DOES THE ROUNDS!

THE KNOT DR.® has developed the cure to your blow-drying chore! Introducing THE KNOT DR.®’s first ever dual-action styling and detangling brush, The Rounds, available from March 2023!

Designed by a professional hairstylist, the unique vented design of the soft touch finish handle accelerates airflow for quicker, even distribution and fast blow-dry styling. Cutting down on the time taken to add volume or create curls, whilst leaving hair sleek and soft. Creating professional results in

the salon or at home!

190 FLEXALITE™ bristles provide the incredible and famed detangling prowess of THE KNOT DR.®, whilst 190 clusters of black natural bristles help prevent hair breakage, seal split ends, and minimise frizz. Revered for their hair strengthening benefits, the soft natural bristles will help distribute natural oils from the scalp, all the way down the hair shaft for healthy-looking hair with a natural glow.

DON’T BE DULL AND LIMITING

BY NHBF

As salon owners and professionals, we strive to create spaces that are welcoming and comfortable for all our clients. In today's diverse world, embracing inclusivity is not just a moral imperative, it is also the key to success in the salon industry. By celebrating our differences and creating a culture of acceptance, we can achieve unparalleled growth and success. In this article by the NHBF, we explore the power of diversity, the importance of inclusion, and the financial benefits that come from catering to diverse customer needs.

KEUNE IS A CERTIFIED B CORP

Keune Haircosmetics, the familyowned professional haircare brand, strives to create a positive and lasting impact on people and planet. The ultimate goal? Leaving the world a better place for future generations. On their journey to an even better tomorrow, Keune is now officially a certified B Corporation. In the certification process, Keune’s impact on employees, governance, customers, community, and the environment was assessed with great results:

• In the category ‘Environment’, the brand scored well for the use of solar panels, electric company cars, and compensation of emissions.

• The company’s close relationships with its suppliers and their way of working is reflected in their high score on ‘Supply Chain Management’.

• When it comes to ‘Packaging and Materials’, Keune does well by using sustainable and certified sustainable paper and recycled cardboard.

Building a better future, strand by strand

"I am proud to announce that we have achieved what I believe to be the most critical value, officially recognised as meeting the highest sustainable, social and environmental performance standards, transparency and accountability." said Darren Potter, UK Country Director. "This is a proud moment the Keune family worldwide as we're the only professional haircare brand 100% loyal to the professional hairdresser. It is everyone's responsibility to care for the planet, and I believe B Corp should become the standard requirement for every business in the world today."

Eelco Keune, CEO, added: “The steps we take today have a lasting impact on the world tomorrow. As a family-owned business, we have been aware of our role in society for over a century, taking this responsibility seriously for three generations."

Imagine a salon where every stylist is the same - the same background, the same experiences, and the same ideas. How dull and limiting would that be? By embracing a diverse workforce, we open ourselves up to a world of possibilities. Different perspectives, skills, and experiences enrich our salon environment and enable us to better cater to the diverse needs of our clients. Successful salons that prioritise diversity consistently outperform their competitors.

Inclusivity means more than just welcoming people from different backgrounds; it means creating an environment where everyone feels valued and respected. When we foster an inclusive culture, we empower

our employees to bring their whole selves to work, leading to higher job satisfaction and productivity. Moreover, an inclusive salon attracts a loyal and diverse client base. By showcasing diversity in our marketing campaigns and implementing inclusive practices, such as offering gender-neutral pricing or providing multicultural haircare products, we ensure that everyone feels welcome and represented.

An inclusive salon is not only good for the soul, but it's also good for the bottom line. By catering to the diverse needs of our clients, we tap into new markets and attract a broader customer base. For example, offering specialised services for different hair types or ethnicities can be a gamechanger. By adapting to the demands of an ever-changing world, we increase customer loyalty and drive profits.

Join the NHBF today and get immediate access to an amazing range of benefits plus valuable business-essential discounts. www.nhbf.co.uk/ join/

• HR support

• Health & Safety

• Business coaching

• Energy support

• Client complaints and ADR

• Insurance

Join the NHBF before 31 October 2023 and quote EVO25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

GOLD DUST MULTI-WAND

Create loose voluminous curls, drop curls, or corkscrew curls with just one wand. The Gold Dust Multi Wand comes with three interchangeable attachments, to create endless types of curls and cater to

MERMADE HAIR REPAIR MASK

This super thick restorative mask contains vitamin b5, argan oil, shea butter and quinoa while the innovative meraguard complex™ provides heat stress protection that assists in the health of the scalp, hair follicle and hair shaft. Expect healthier looking hair with increased elasticity, stylability, shine and

ANDIS MASTER MAGNETIC COMB SET

Magnetic comb sets for the Andis Master clipper, featuring two magnets for an extra-strong grip. Available in two sets of two combs or one set of five combs.

£26.00 // andis.com

ACUT ABOVE

TAKARA BELMONT RS AXIS BACKWASH

As one of the most recent additions to Takara Belmont’s backwash range, RS Axis features a unique adjustable lumbar support design and a deep cushioned seat with a sliding mechanism that ensures idyllic positioning for clients of every height and stature.

£3,500.00 // takarahairdressing.co.uk

COLOR EXCEL GLOSS BY REVLONISSIMO™

Low commitment, ammonia-free* tone on tone shimmering hair color with acid technology. The best toning option after lightening services, it treats and colors hair gently, providing glimmers of light.

£11.60 // revlonprofessional.com

STARPIL PROFESSIONAL WAX WARMER

Ideal for both facial and body waxing. Adjustable temperature (45 – 105 °C) rapid heating, wooden handles and aluminium removable wax pot. Made of steel and the lid and tank are of premium aluminium. Perfect for professional use.

£66.00 // beautyfor.co.uk

ANDIS MASTER CORDLESS CLIPPER

A powerful tool designed for effortless bulk hair removal on wet or dry hair. Its high-speed rotary motor operates at an impressive 7,200 strokes per minute, ensuring a smooth and efficient cutting experience.

£270.00 // andis.com

WAHL SINGLE FOIL SHAVER

The Wahl Single Foil Shaver is the ultimate compact finishing tool ideal for reaching the intricate areas around the ears, beard and neck line. The ultra-fine foil cuts as close as 0.05mm and bump-free shaving.

GAMMA+ ROSEBUD REVOLUTIONARY CURLER STRAIGHTENER

To create curls and waves and to straighten hair in the easiest way possible. Four temperature adjustments with ceramic plates, enriched with diamond powder. Non-slip rubber grip and no-burn coating, with revolving bar cable to curl freely.

£131.95 // gammaplus.co.uk

OLAPLEX VOLUMIZING BLOW DRY MIST

Elevate your blowout with the reparative blow-dry mist for lasting body and bounce that protects hair for soft, shiny, and visibly healthy blowouts.

£28.00 // uk.olaplex.com

BY HAIRDRESSERS

FOR HAIRDRESSERS

Photography // Jonas Huckstorf

This industry powerhouse has been hairstyling and hairdressing since the ‘80s. John’s first Americ’s Beauty Show was in 1991, so he knows a thing or two (probably more than two) about how to make the most of a show! When John joined us in the media zone this year, we welcomed him into our barber chair interview hotseat, where he gave us all the intel about the power of beauty trade shows and the education they offer.

He told us: “It’s so wonderful to see this whole new generation of hairdressers on the floor but also new media partners like SalonEVO and BarberEVO, who bring an entirely new energy to the industry.” Thanks John! “I really love seeing how much things have changed. It’s such an amazing industry and I guess that’s why I’ve been part of it for so long.”

Speaking to dozens of industry icons over the last year at these events has opened our eyes to the importance of embracing education in a place where so many talented hair artists and business experts come together. Really making the most of networking opportunities with hair’s biggest brands – like Olaplex – is a massive part of the event circuit, too.

John’s role as Vice President for Global Education with Olaplex sees him taking the amazing heritage and success of Ulta Beauty and using it to help the Olaplex team amplify their education offerings and take their brand to the next level. He continued: “I’ve been educating for 30 years now and joining Olaplex really is a huge achievement of mine. I believe it is one of the single most innovative and exciting companies out there AND one of the

biggest phenomenon that beauty and haircare have ever seen. Who doesn’t want to be part of that?”

We wanted to know what truly sets Olaplex 100 steps ahead of other brands. With risk of sounding short, we asked John, ‘what makes Olaplex so special?’ He answered: “It plays beautifully with anybody. It doesn’t matter what colour line you use, Olaplex is going to make sure that whatever service you do, the hair is in its best possible shape, that it’s the strongest it can be and remains strong enough for ongoing treatments. This ensures safety for the professional behind the chair and really lets them unleash their creativity!” Great answer!

So, what’s new with Olaplex? John gave us the lowdown: “In summer, we released Olaplex No.4D Clean Volume Detox Dry Shampoo, which is our innovative new dry shampoo offering. It’s weightless, residue-free, benzene-free, and absorbs oil.” For context, John was sporting a gorgeous dark two-piece suit when we interviewed him… “If I had a bottle here with me today, I would spray it on my suit and have zero residue!”

Next, this master educator told us about the Olaplex Lashbond Building Serum, which is a lashes product. Here’s more: “Olaplex has added its patented bis amino technology, a new peptide complex technology, along with hyaluronic acid and biotin to create the optimal environment to support and sustain the natural growth cycle and lash retention for the look of longer, thicker, stronger, and healthier lashes.” Science-backed product development is

music to a beauty expert’s ears. By ensuring they’re prepping and priming their client’s hair and lashes with expert-approved products means they can work confidently in the knowledge that their client can withstand any process you need to do to create the styles, colours, and cuts that they desire. When it comes to the Olaplex Lashbond Building Serum: “It gives clients the appearance of longer, thicker, stronger lashes in as little as four weeks!”*

Finally, John told us that at the core of Olaplex and their product development is the hairdresser. Every range is made by hairdressers for hairdressers. “They’ve grown from coloring, perming, relaxing, thermal straightening – all those sorts of things are where Olaplex started. They have the historical foundation from which to build products that they know tackle every kind of treatment in the chair and enhance the hairdresser’s work as a result. Without the professional stylist, it’s just another haircare line – but it's not, and that’s the point.” John concluded: “I’m just thrilled to work with Olaplex advocates, the team, and media partners to share the truth about bond building, which is a category we created!”

*Results may vary. As reported by participants at the conclusion of a 12-week consumer perception clinical study of 33 subjects with 2x daily use.

AS VICE PRESIDENT FOR GLOBAL EDUCATION FOR OLAPLEX, JOHN MORONEY BRINGS THE FINEST IN EDUCATION TO STYLISTS ACROSS OCEANS, FROM NORTH AMERICA TO LATIN AMERICA AND EUROPE. WE CAUGHT UP WITH HIM TO FIND OUT WHAT’S IN STORE FOR OLAPLEX THIS YEAR…

“I’M THRILLED TO WORK WITH OLAPLEX ADVOCATES, THE OLAPLEX TEAM, AND MEDIA PARTNERS TO SPREAD AWARENESS AND REALLY SHARE THE TRUTH ABOUT BOND BUILDING, WHICH IS A CATEGORY WE CREATED!”

ROBERT EATON

SONG OF THE MONTH

LEWIS CAPALDI WISH YOU THE BEST

THE PRESIDENT'S SAY

PRESIDENT OF THE FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING, ART DIRECTOR FOR RUSSELL EATON HAIR , AND TWO TIME BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR

.

HELLO MR PRESIDENT!

Let's start with some exciting news about our new Fellowship House Membership! Being a member of the Fellowship has always had its advantages and in October the Fellowship are launching their new House Membership which adds even more value to your membership whilst providing a wonderful benefit to your team.

TOP TIPS

DELICIOUSLY DARK

After a summer of waves, beach and festival inspired hair, the latest hair trend to hit the catwalks and salons is ultra glossy, rich, shiny and expensive looking hair.

Blonde hair may reign supreme in the summer, but as the cold weather sets in this season, hair is all about condition and shine and deep glossy reds, brunettes, warm and chocolatey hues start showing up on A-lister’s hair. Hair colour is one of the biggest changes we can give our hairstyle which can totally change our look. Deep, rich hair colour always becomes very popular in winter. In our salons we are shifting away from the soft, pastel colours we saw over the summer, and giving hair bursts of colour using intense burgundy’s, rich iridescent reds, shimmering golden and bronzed browns and chocolate tones. Red is set to make huge come back with clients... watch out for my upcoming collection!

Fellowship House Membership is all about providing the entire salon with the opportunity to be part of the Fellowship community. Salon owners sign up for a monthly subscription of £19.95 and then each of their team can be subscribed for £1.20 a month each. It couldn’t be easier, and the benefits are many – access to a wide library of digital education via the Fellowship App and website, regular newsletters, instant access to enter the Fellowship Projects, Image and Art & Commerce Awards along with complimentary tickets to all country wide Hair & Vision presents events and so much more. To sign up for house membership please email louise@fellowshiphair.com who will take you through the process and get you and your team signed up.

What can you expect as a valued member of the Fellowship?

• Access all our educational content.

• Audition for our 12 month project mentoring programmes.

• Compete in our prestigious annual Fellowship Awards.

• Audition to be part of our creative F.A.M.E. Team platform.

• Enjoy FREE tickets to our LIVE member events.

• Raise your profile on our social media channels & Fellowship Magazine.

• Grow your skills with LIVE creative workshops.

• Network at our LIVE events with industry icons.

We at Russell Eaton were all moved with Lewis’s bravery following on from his performance at Glastonbury.

Photography// Clubstar Art Team

PROJECT LEADER

OF THE MONTH

Jacqui McIntosh

Project Leader for PROJECT

AFRO 2023-2024

Jacqui McIntosh is a powerhouse within the hairdressing industry who has enjoyed a storied career, which is testament to her extraordinary talent and ability.

Joining Avlon over 22 years ago as an educator, she has witnessed the rise of the brand throughout Europe in real time, and in fact, has greatly contributed to Avlon’s reputation for offering an exemplary service when it comes to the delivery of education. Jacqui now works as Avlon’s European Education Director, overseeing and managing the educational teams throughout Europe.

CELEB STYLE

RISING STAR

Amy Jezzard

My chosen rising star for this month is Amy – a fantastic stylist who really is making great progress during the early years of her career. Currently part of the Project X team, Amy is showing continuous skill through her team days and is always open to trying something new, with a big focus on education at all times.

MEGAN FOX GOES FOXY COPPER

An ideal tone for this time of year, even Megan Fox is jumping on the copper bandwagon. And by God does she pull it off!

SALON OF THE MONTH

Scullion and Scot // Sheffield

A huge congratulations to the winner of this years L’Oréal clout trophy who's salon in based in Sheffield. Scullion and Scot. ( I am always happy to see a northern salon do well).

PRODUCT COLOUR TOOL PRODUCT STYLING HAIRCARE

L’ORÉAL DIA LIGHT

We have recently started to use this range of incredible toners, we have been so impressed with the colour results and the incredible condition and shine created after each application. It is fantastic to have such a wide range of colour formulas with the very highest levels of hair colour technology.

2-IN-1 CONTOURING IRON PRO

The 2-in-1 Contouring Iron Pro makes curling and straightening easier and faster. With iconic temperature control and our signature Revive Mode to keep hair healthy and make sure style lasts all-day.

L’ORÉAL METAL DETOX RANGE

This has been a fantastic new addition to our salon treatments range, helping us create colour perfection every time.

Dimitris Giannetos @dimitrishair

SEASONAL

OH, THE COLOURS OF AUTUMN. WHETHER YOU ARE A HALLOWEEN-LOVING, RISKTAKER, OR A PUMPKIN-SPICE LOVER WHO IS ALL ABOUT EMBRACING WARMER

TONES, AUTUMN IS UNDOUBTEDLY AN EXCITING TIME IN THE HAIR AND BEAUTY WORLD. THIS FEATURE, WE COVER IT ALL, FROM GHOULISH TO GLOWING.

Hair// Mark Leeson for Revlon Professional.

Photography// Richard Miles.

IT'S ALL ABOUT THE GLOSS

AS THE DAYS BECOME DULLER AND DARKER, IT DOESN’T MEAN HAIR HAS TO! GLOBAL ARTISTIC AMBASSADOR FOR REVLON PROFESSIONAL, MARK LEESON EXPLAINS, THIS AUTUMN / WINTER 2023 IS ALL ABOUT INJECTING ACCENTS OF GOLD AND BRONZE INTO OUR LIVES. IT’S ALL ABOUT MULTI-TONAL DIMENSIONS, BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY, GLOSS IS THE SEASON’S BUZZWORD!

Thankfully, in-salon services have been given a glow-up just in time with a new generation of professional, ultra-performing colour from Revlon Professional®. Color Excel™ delivers the most glowing shine yet, alongside ultimate

care and condition. In two dynamic acid and alkaline formulas, this ultimate duo delivers infinite service possibilities and a fast route to stronger, healthier-looking colour that glows from within. 

Image// Revlon Professional.

Infused with the Revlon Professional® GLOWin System™, the duo features patent-pending technology. Its prime Deposit Seal refills and repairs the protein structure to prime hair for optimal colour deposit and seals the cuticle to lock in colour retention and lasting glow. With no lift, no risk and no compromise, you can reverse damage and recover hair’s natural condition from the first application. We found out what other colour trends some of the country’s top hair names are predicting for the season ahead…

Andrew Jose, Editorial Ambassador for Revlon Professional®

“It’s a rich palette of warm tones on the horizon this autumn. We’re thinking chestnut browns, auburn and deep reds. We’re still seeing lots of face-framing and balayage on blondes, but the look is heading in a more luxe and expensive direction, working with cool, caramel and golden tones. Darker blondes and brunettes will be shot through with irresistibly delicious shades including cinnamon, honey and milk chocolate.”

Ceri Cushen, Revlon Professional® Master Artist, Creative Director at Metropolis Hairdressing & BHBA Salon Stylist of the Year 2023

“This autumn we will be seeing a lot of warmth coming back into the hair. Vibrant reds, coppers and mahoganies are all sitting in my chair more and more often. This autumn /winter will also be all about shine, gloss and healthy hair.”

Karoliina Saunders, Revlon Professional® Creative Artist

“Blonde is always on the agenda, whatever the time of the year but this season to be bang on trend, we’re looking at a more expensive blonde than ever before. Warm and luxurious, it looks a million dollars with its blend of perfectly placed beige, creamy and pale caramel tones. It’s multi-tonal and full of dimension and – importantly – it really shines.”

Danilo Giangreco, Revlon Professional® Creative Artist

“Autumn/winter is such a great time of year for colour trends. We see the colour palette start to be infused with warmth, richness and plenty of multi-dimensional tones. This season, a warm dimension is what we predict everyone will be asking for. On a brunette base, we’d add this with threads of caramel, bronze and rich honey, while with redder tones, we might go with coppers, auburn and smoky chestnuts. Either way, it’s going to be so important to maintain the richness and gloss to keep those tones vibrant, shiny and glamorous.”

List Price Color Excel: £11.15 / €10.40

List Price Color Excel Gloss: £11.60 / €10.95

To pick up tips, trends and style inspiration, follow @RevlonProfessionaluk on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube, or visit revlonprofessional.com •

INTERPRETING TRENDS

FASHION TO FUNCTION

GAMMA+ AMBASSADOR, CHRISTIAN WILES IS AN AWARD-WINNING HAIRDRESSER AND BARBER WITH A KEEN EYE FOR THE LATEST TRENDS, AND A SHARP INSTINCT FOR TRANSLATING RUNWAY FASHION TO WEARABLE TRENDS, AND CURRENT TRENDS INTO EDITORIAL COLLECTIONS, ALL WITH THE HELP OF HIS HIGH-CALIBRE TOOLS FROM GAMMA+.

For award-winning and highly sought-after stylist and barber, Christian, finding one tool brand that could cover all of his cutting, grooming and styling needs, was not an easy feat. Christian was not going to settle for less than the best for anything from his cutthroat razors to his curling wands and hair dryers, and that’s when he found Gamma+

“Before I started using Gamma+, I always had to pick and choose tools from multiple brands, because they never had everything I needed.”

Christian continued: “Gamma+’s clippers and hair dryers were the first of their tools that really caught my attention, at the technology, power, and ingenuity. Then when I tried their tongs and curlers, I knew this brand was a game changer.

“One of my all-time favourite Gamma+ tools is the Intelligent Energy Saver (IES) Dryer. I think it is a true reflection of what is going on at the moment with the climate crisis as well as the cost of living. I think Gamma+ are ahead of its time, creating a tool that is so powerful and efficient, yet uses far less energy, saving you both money and time.

“What I like about Gamma+ is that it is always pushing forward, improving and upgrading the products they do have, and creating completely new tools that the industry has never encountered before. They truly have everything you need in this modern age of hairdressing and barbering, all under one roof.”

A master at creating stunning editorial collections, how he finds a balance between the avant-garde, editorial looks, and wearable styles that a client could point at and walk out of the salon with. He said: “Knowing your audience and what you are creating the collection for is important. I always like to think about how each look can be teachable and broken down in a cutting or colouring class. I think about what elements are commercially viable, and how I might be able to use this collection in

the environment of the salon so that clients can be inspired for their next appointment. So, no matter how ‘out-there’ the final look is there should always be some relatable aspects, whether it’s the colour, or the shape, or the style.”

What trends is Christian anticipating in A/W 2023? He said: “Colourwise, as usual, this time of year, we are looking at more reds. I am seeing cherry and burgundy hues, which is quite a commitment because they’re not always easy to lift out if the client wants to go back to blonde. I am also seeing a resurgence of the 90’s grunge look, with Courtney Love and Kurt Cobain blondes.

“In terms of shapes, we are seeing the evolution of the mullet, now longer and softer. We are seeing a lot of the longer, centre-parted fringes. The great thing about this trend is that it does work with all hair textures, from straight to curly, you can play around with the client's natural texture to create really low maintenance results.”

Getting the Look

Every salon-worthy style starts with an idea, and the creation of the quintessential autumn butterscotch blonde is no exception. My goal was to emulate the comforting, cosy feel of autumn by combining classic blonde shades with a lavish butterscotch tint.

The transformation commenced with prelightening the hair, I used Matrix High Riser to create the perfect canvas for our colour journey, applying a face-framing technique to enhance the client's best features. This pivotal first step laid the foundation for creative colouring to follow.

I wanted to refine the hair colour so I chose Matrix Tonal Control to cast the mesmerising butterscotch hue, I wanted to create a diffused blonde that evoked the feeling of autumn.

Whilst the colour was the starting point for

me, the cut was just as vital. I opted for forward graduation, with additional triangle sections internally to craft the ideal texture and volume, bringing life and movement to the hair.

Next up was the product application. I used a combination of Matrix Setter Mousse and Matrix Builder Wax Spray, carefully layering them to achieve the desired volume. These products were then roughly worked through the hair, setting the stage for the upcoming styling phase.

To finish off, I used the Gamma+ IES – Energy Saving Dryer. This step was more than just drying; it was about prepping the hair for the final flourish of curling. Once dry, I used the Gamma+ Korner XL Wave Curler Curling Iron to add soft, elegant waves, adding the final touch to our beautiful butterscotch blonde.

Photography // Desmond Murray

Model// Amalie Lines

MUA// Lucy Flower

THINK OUTSIDE THE BOTTLE

CREATED TO INSPIRE CREATIVE EXPRESSION AND CELEBRATE INDIVIDUALITY, THE THINK OUTSIDE THE BOTTLE CAMPAIGN BY CRAZY COLOR’S GLOBAL COLOUR AMBASSADOR, SOPHIA HILTON AND THE NOT ANOTHER SALON TEAM REPRESENTS THE ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES OF VIBRANT HAIR. WE CAUGHT UP WITH SOPHIA ABOUT THE INSPIRATION AND MOTIVATION BEHIND THE COLLECTION.

Photography// Chris Bulezuik @chrisbulezuikphotography Behind The Scenes// Bella Green @b.t.s.bella

Founder of Not Another Salon and Academy, Sophia Hilton is known for her vibrant approach to education, leadership, and of course, hair too. She is all about empowering both clients and hairdressers on how to embrace their individuality through hair, whether that means inspiring creativity in stylists and colourists or encouraging clients to experiment with a more vibrant palette.

From vivids to pastels, the ’Think Outside the Bottle’ campaign represents the diversity of vivid colour. No longer a DIY ‘phase’, vivid colours can be applied to anyone, to match any style and aesthetic.

Sophia explained: “What is always important to me is to illustrate that Crazy Color is not just for one type of person, it’s for everybody. In the last 10 years, I have seen the trends change dramatically in the UK, and throughout the world, and what was once seen as alternative is now completely wearable for every personality. Giving people the confidence to be themselves is exactly what Crazy Color is all about.”

So, what was it about Crazy Color that drew Sophia to the brand all those years ago? She explained: “I was using Crazy Color for many years before eventually becoming an ambassador. Like a lot of us, I was using it from my teens

through into my early professional life in London. It was the first brand that I went to because it had the biggest range and the best price. As I progressed in my career, brands started to send me their colour products, but it was only Crazy Color I wanted to be an ambassador for, simply because I am an educator, and I want to make sure that I am representing a product I believe in and one that is economically accessible too.

“One of the hurdles that colourists encounter with vivid colouring is that if you’re not charging correctly, or if your products are too expensive, you can end up losing money. So, using the right products, like Crazy Color, that is competitively priced and good quality, is essential.”

Another one of Sophia’s main goals since working with Crazy Color, is to change some of the common perceptions the industry has on vivid colours. She explained: “When I first started working with Crazy Color, vivid hair colour tended to have that DIY, Camden Punk vibe to it. But since we have been on a mission to show that everyone and anyone can have vivid hair. It can be expensive looking, without being expensive. You can be a well-respected professional and have bright green hair. Not all people who like crazy colours are in fact ‘crazy’! And no, Mum, it’s not just a phase!”

As the Director of the “Think Outside the Bottle” campaign, Sophia was the intermediary between the brand and her team of artists from Not Another Salon, considering the goals of the brand, while creating a visually stunning collection. Sophia said: “I always love the challenge of ‘How do we make you want to be part of our club? (Because it is a really cool club.) And then how do we create a collection with that message?” 

“VIVID COLOURS ARE A KIND OF A REFUSAL OF CONVENTIONAL FASHION STANDARDS AND THE FOLLOWING OF TRENDS. IT IS ALL ABOUT EXPRESSING INDIVIDUALITY. AND TO ME, THAT IS REALLY LIBERATING AND FREEING.”

I asked Sophia what she thinks this collection says about the current trends in the industry. She said: “I always find the conversation about trends when it comes to vivids quite interesting. I get a lot of questions about what is on trend at a certain time. But to me, vivid colours are a kind of refusal of conventional fashion standards and the following of trends. It is all about expressing individuality. And to me, that is really liberating and freeing.”

However, of course, there are some trends that come and go when it comes to tones and placements. “So, some of the things you will notice in the collection are specific placements and colour blocking, which have been quite ontrend in the world of vivids. As well, you can get some ideas of how you might be able to utilize vivid colours in some more soft and subtle ways.”

This collection showcases Crazy Color's expansive range of colours like never before. With 40 Semi Permanent shades to choose from, all intermixable, each shade you see here has been custom mixed to suit the model and the look Sophia has created for each one.

The “Think Outside the Bottle” campaign is not only featured in the pages of SalonEVO Magazine but will also be unveiled through a series of videos and behind-the-scenes footage, providing a glimpse into the creative process. The ground-breaking campaign promises to empower individuals to break free from convention and embrace their true selves, one vibrant hue at a time. •

“AS I PROGRESSED IN MY CAREER, BRANDS STARTED TO SEND ME THEIR COLOUR PRODUCTS, BUT IT WAS ONLY CRAZY COLOR I WANTED TO BE AN AMBASSADOR FOR, SIMPLY BECAUSE I AM AN EDUCATOR, AND I WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT I AM REPRESENTING A PRODUCT I BELIEVE IN AND ONE THAT IS ECONOMICALLY ACCESSIBLE TOO.”

AS THE AUTUMN BREEZE SWEEPS THROUGH THE STREETS, IT'S TIME TO BID FAREWELL TO THE SUNKISSED HIGHLIGHTS OF SUMMER AND EMBRACE A NEW SEASON OF HAIR COLOUR TRENDS. THIS YEAR, CLIENTS ARE VEERING AWAY FROM THE BLEACHED-OUT LOOKS OF THE PAST AND GRAVITATING TOWARDS MORE DECADENT TONES THAT EXUDE WARMTH AND LUXURY. AUTUMN 2023 IS ALL ABOUT INDULGING IN HUES THAT EVOKE THE ESSENCE OF THE SEASON!

AUTUMNAL OPULENCE EMBRACING

BY MELISSA TIMPERLEY

Deep cocoas are set to be the showstoppers this Autumn, adding a touch of sophistication to any hairstyle. This indulgent shade infuses dark, velvety browns with hints of chocolate and espresso, creating depth and dimension. Imagine a deliciously warm cup of cocoa on a chilly autumn day - that's exactly how these hues will make your clients feel! Deep cocoas work beautifully on a range of skin tones and can be customised to add a bespoke feel or bold statement to your overall look.

For those seeking a little more drama, multidimensional tones are the perfect choice. Blending various shades within the same colour family, such as rich mahogany, chestnut and amber, creates a breathtakingly beautiful effect. These varied hues mimic the play of light and shadow found in nature during the autumn season and with their unique depth and movement, they can add a luxe finish to midlength and long hair.

“FOR THOSE SEEKING A LITTLE MORE DRAMA, MULTI-DIMENSIONAL TONES ARE THE PERFECT CHOICE. BLENDING VARIOUS SHADES WITHIN THE SAME COLOUR FAMILY, SUCH AS RICH MAHOGANY, CHESTNUT AND AMBER, CREATES A BREATHTAKINGLY BEAUTIFUL EFFECT.”

Photography// Michael Young

Another trend that continues to make waves is "bronde" - the perfect marriage of brunette and blonde. This harmonious blend offers the best of both worlds, combining the warmth of brown with the lightness of blonde. Bronde hues can be tailored to suit individual skin tones, allowing clients to achieve a natural, sun-kissed look that

transitions effortlessly into Autumn. From soft caramel to honeyed wheat, the possibilities are endless, offering a versatile and wearable option for those seeking a new autumnal look.

Copper has also emerged as a frontrunner this year, offering a fiery alternative to traditional autumnal shades. Ranging from rich, deep copper

to vibrant ginger, these hues instantly ignite any hairstyle with warmth and intensity. Copper tones create a stunning contrast against different skin tones – picture the breath-taking shades of falling leaves and you can see why this trend is so perennially popular.

Multi-tonal blondes are not to be overlooked, as they provide a fresh take on the classic blonde look. By seamlessly blending shades of vanilla, honey, and buttery blondes, these multi-dimensional hues add depth and movement to fair locks. This versatile trend allows clients to achieve a natural, sun-kissed appearance while still embracing the spirit of autumn.

Last but certainly not least, the realm of expensive brunettes has gained immense popularity. With a focus on luxurious, glossy hair, these shades exude richness and opulence. Picture deep chestnut hues, infused with warm undertones, radiating a sense of sophistication and elegance. Expensive brunettes are the epitome of autumnal allure, capturing the essence of the season in every strand.

This autumn, clients are opting for hair colour choices that speak to their desire for change and a break from the bleach. The allure of deeper, and more decadent tones offers a refreshing departure from the summer's light and bright looks, embracing the spirit of autumn.

So, as you prepare your salon for the vibrant season ahead, consider these captivating autumnal hair colour trends. Your clients will appreciate the opportunity to embrace the beauty of fall, one strand at a time.

Lots of love, Melissa x

Photography// Roberto Aguilar

Photography// Michael Young

Photography// Michael Young

Photography// Michael Young

REVOLUTIONISING ‘THE RACHEL’

CO-OWNER

OF THE AWARD-WINNING SALON, JACK AND THE WOLFE , JACK MEAD IS AN EXPERT IN TRANSFORMATIONAL CUTS. ACCORDING TO JACK, THE ‘IT-GIRL’ CUT FOR AUTUMN 2023 IS GOING TO BE A MODERN INTERPRETATION OF ‘THE RACHEL’. JACK SHARES HIS ADVICE ON ACHIEVING THAT EFFORTLESSLY CHIC LOOK.

The 1990s have been making a major comeback in the last year. While the Pamela Anderson bouncy blow-out has slowly faded away, the iconic ‘Rachel’ haircut based on Jennifer Aniston’s character in FRIENDS has taken its place.

Jack explained: “I am loving the modern variation of the layered ‘Rachel’ haircut, which I have been doing a lot of lately. Clients are loving the layers and create a beautiful shape.

“The words ‘undone’ and ‘effortless’ have been floating around a lot in the fashion and beauty world recently. So, rather than wearing hairstyles that are heavily styled, voluminous blowouts, clients are wanting to wear their hair in a way that looks like they just woke up looking like that.”

But of course, these ‘effortless’ looking styles, actually take quite a lot of effort to achieve, especially on the part of the stylist. Jack said: “For the last decade or so, a lot of the emphasis and focus in the salon has been on colour and extensions, with a large percentage of women wanting long, flowing, balayage locks. So, the actual art of cutting hair, and creating shapes and layers, wasn’t a huge priority. But, in order to achieve that trending, undone look, the hair needs that structure and shape in the cut. Now that the haircut is being focused on again in the salon, I am having a lot of stylists come to me for advice, asking for education because they feel it’s time to refresh their cutting skills.”

The demographic of women wanting a more structured haircut is changing as well, explained Jack. He said: “Traditionally, it is quite common for the working professional and the slightly older demographic to ask for the morelayered, lower maintenance styles. But the way fashion is at the moment, even young people who do have the time to style and maintain their hair, are opting for these layered looks. Then all they need to do is add some texturing spray or sea salt spray and walk out the door!”

These layered looks are not only ideal during this time of year because they simplify the client’s routine, but they beautifully complement autumn hair colours, like auburn and warm brunettes. Jack explained: “With a layered look like this if the client has a really light blonde, it can run the risk of looking dry at the ends. However, this style is beautifully paired with rich coppers and brunettes, which will leave the hair looking healthy and hydrated.”

What are Jack’s go-to styling products for the modern Rachel? He said: “The Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray is a must-have for both clients to take home and for professionals. It is the best for creating volume and structure. The Oribe Grandiose Hair Plumping Mousse is also amazing, as it is super versatile. It is great for prepping the hair for natural drying to give a grungier texture, or to blow dry into the hair. It gives you loads of volume and structure. For curly hair, I love the KMS Conscious Style Multi-Benefit Spray. It is an all-around product that is great for moulding and texturizing. It truly has multiple benefits and uses.”

Photography // @jackmead_stylist

Photograph// Philip Veitch

“ASIDE FROM THE FORMULATION SIDE OF THINGS, THE THING THAT REALLY STANDS OUT TO ME ABOUT MANIC PANIC IS THAT THEY EMBRACE DIFFERENCE.”

EMBRACE DIFFERENCE

It’s not hard to recognise a collection created by Verity, Paul and Andy. While they cover a wide variety of styles, cuts and colours, the underlying theme seems to be ‘What if Tim Burton was a hairdresser?’

Verity told us that challenging traditional forms of beauty and hairdressing is an intentional move she likes to make when creating collections. She said: “I think going against traditional gender roles and beauty standards can be really empowering and freeing. So, getting the chance to create collections that are not rooted in reality, and can have these magical and fantasy themes gives you a fun opportunity to create something that isn’t just ‘pretty’ or ‘sexy’, it’s something totally different.”

In the last collection Verity, Paul and Andy worked on called ‘Strange and Unusual’, they created looks inspired by classic Tim Burton films like Beetlejuice, Sweeney Todd, Edward Scissorhands, The Corpse Bride, Alice in Wonderland, and the Joker from the ’89 Batman. These this collection pulls you right out of reality and into the world of Tim Burton’s character…. But with much better hair.

It was during the production of this collection that Verity, Paul and Andy came up with their next idea. Verity explained: “While we were shooting Strange and Unusual, Andy came up to me and said, ‘I’ve got this mood board on my Pinterest that is all about a dark take on Pirates and Sirens.’ And I was like, that is right up my street. I’ve got practically

the same mood board! So, as soon as ‘Strange and Unusual’ was done and dusted, we arranged a Zoom to start planning our next shoot.”

We have been seeing mermaids everywhere this summer following the release of Disney’s The Little Mermaid. But this was definitely not the inspiration for this collection. Verity said: “The vibe behind the collection is far from Disney. Instead, we played with the horror side of sirens and pirates. The Sirens aren’t just pretty girls with purple hair, and the pirates aren’t your average captain hook. We have images where the pirates are catching the sirens in nets like fish, or the sirens pulling pirates down to the depths of the sea. It’s all about the war between the sirens and pirates.”

Because of the clear division between the Pirates and Sirens, Verity’s focus was prepping the siren's hair, whereas Paul’s was on pirate duty. I asked Verity to tell us a bit about how she created the mermaid looks. She explained: “In previous collections, I have coloured all of the model’s real hair. But because we were working with models who couldn’t have their natural hair permanently turned into siren locks (pity), I worked with wigs. This was quite beneficial as it meant that I could prepare the hair in the months leading up to the shoot, as we all travelled in from different parts of the country for just two days for the shoot.”

This meant that Verity could take her time transforming blonde wigs into four completely unique, multi-dimensional, siren-worthy hairdos. She explained: “I decided to do the siren’s hair quite vibrant to contrast with the dark and moody vibe, and so the detail would still be visible when the hair is in dark moody lighting.

“My look for each of my sirens was based on the natural elements, so one had a green palate to represent earth, one red to represent fire, blue to represent water, and purple to represent air. These four elements set the colour schemes for each model, which I worked with for the hair, skin, and tail colour.”

WHENEVER COLOURIST VERITY CLARKE, BARBER PAUL DEVLIN, AND PHOTOGRAPHER ANDY KRUCZEK COME TOGETHER TO CREATE A COLLECTION, MAGIC HAPPENS. THEIR COLLECTIONS ARE ALWAYS WEIRD, WONDERFUL AND WACKY. WE SPOKE WITH VERITY ABOUT BRINGING THEIR FANTASTICAL VISIONS INTO THE REAL WORLD WITH THE HELP OF MANIC PANIC.

Photography // Andy Kruczek

From all the trends we have seen in ‘mermaid’ hair, one of the common characteristics is that it is never a solid colour. So, although she had one main colour scheme for each, at least five or six Manic Panic shades were used on each wig. Verity explained: “When working on mermaid or siren hair, it’s important to create a finish that has a lot of fluidity and movement to it. So, on each wig, I used several shades that complement each other, so while from a distance it may look like one colour when it moves or curls those different tones come shining through, almost like it’s moving with the light. When you are working with vivid colours, this is a great way to create a much more natural looking effect with even the most unnatural and impossible colours.”

Here comes the reminder for all colourists out there to charge based on time, and not let anyone underestimate the time and skill behind vivid colours. “To colour each wig from blonde (so no lighting necessary), it took me about five hours per wig! So, don’t let anyone think they can pay less for vivids than for other colouring services!”

For Verity, whether she is working behind the chair in the salon, or preparing her fantastical hair pieces, Manic Panic is always her go-to for vivid colour. She said: “Manic Panic have the most vivid colours that I have found to work with. They come up super bright and super vibrant. And another thing I love about them is they fade true to tone (which doesn’t matter so much if you are working with wigs, but if you were a real mermaid, that would be a deal-breaker. This means that your purples fade to purple, and they’re not going to go blue or red. That’s really important to me. I also love that they are vegan and cruelty-free in their formulations too.

“Unlike other brands that see vivids as a seasonal fling, or a side project, Manic Panic eat, breathe, sleep vivids. They are at the forefront of everything they do, and I believe you really can tell.”

“Aside from the formulation side of things, the thing that really stands out to me about Manis Panic is that they embrace difference. They were the original punk colour, and they encourage colourists to do their own thing and go against the grain. That really resonates with me. They support artists like me with all of my weird and different projects, like this collection! It would be easy for them to say, ‘That’s not our vibe’, but instead, they’re championing and cheering us on, and that makes all the difference.”

While the Pirates and Sirens concept isn’t necessarily rooted in reality, Verity told us that working on collections like this isn’t all that different from what she does in her salon. She said: “I will often have clients come in and give me a theme like ‘I want to look like a unicorn’ or ‘I want to look like a mermaid’. Obviously, I am going to give them something that is wearable and realistic but still has that other-worldly feel. Then when you’re finished with their colour and they get up to leave, you can just see this glow in them, they’ll say ‘I feel like an actual mermaid.’ And I’m like, hell yeah you are!” This is why Verity encourages all artists to try their hand at creating an avant-garde collection. “Just do it! When you put yourself in that creative space, especially working with other creatives, ideas just catch on like wildfire. You just bounce off each other and it will turn into absolute chaos… but good chaos. And that’s where the best ideas are found.” •

“UNLIKE OTHER BRANDS THAT SEE VIVIDS AS A SEASONAL FLING, OR A SIDE PROJECT, MANIC PANIC EAT, BREATHE, SLEEP VIVIDS. THEY ARE AT THE FOREFRONT OF EVERYTHING THEY DO, AND I BELIEVE YOU REALLY CAN TELL.”

BY STEPHANIE YAGGY LAVERY, MIA SECRET EXECUTIVE PUBLISHER ADVISOR

SEIZE THE

Promote Seasonally-Themed Nail Packages

Offering themed nail services and packages is a great way to attract new clients who are looking to embrace the spirit of the season, while at the same time giving current clients something new and fun to experience — plus, you’re upselling them on their services, which benefits your bottom line. Start by creating your seasonal service menu by offering packages at different tiers so you can cater to various client preferences and budgets. A basic package could incorporate specially scented products — think: pumpkin spice scrub and chai lotion — and a premium offering would provide the biggest bang for your customers’ buck, with a full spa manicure/pedicure experience, complete with hot apple cider to sip while experiencing deluxe nail services. You could even include a nail art package with simple and more intricate art options, priced accordingly. Then comes the fun part of brainstorming names for each of the services. Don’t forget to outline all of the package details clearly so there are no surprises.

Host a Halloween Nail Art Pop-Up

Transform your salon into a haunted Halloween experience by hosting a themed nail event. Decorate your space with spooky decor, upload a Halloween playlist and offer festive treats to create

an immersive experience. Consider partnering with a local costume shop, makeup artists or even photographers to create a one-stop destination for a Halloween glow-up. Invite current clients and ask your collaborating vendors to invite theirs too. Offer simple Halloween-inspired nail art, and sell gift cards as well as your seasonal packages. Not only is this a fun way to celebrate the season, but it’s also a great way to introduce potential clients to your amazing salon.

Leverage Social Media

Harness the power of social media to showcase your seasonal services. Regularly post highquality images and videos of your autumn- and Halloween-themed nail art and creatively packaged services on your Instagram, Facebook and TikTok accounts. Don’t forget to include hashtags like #HalloweenNails, #PumpkinNails and #FallManicure to expand your reach and attract potential clients. Encourage your own clients to share their nails as well, and make sure they tag your salon!

Incentivise Referrals and Reviews

Utilise satisfied customers by asking them to refer their friends and family to your salon by offering seasonal incentives. Consider providing discounts

on services or retail items, free add-ons or upgrades or exclusive access to one of your seasonal packages for clients who successfully refer new customers. You could also reward clients who leave positive reviews and testimonials online, as these often play a crucial role in building community trust and attracting new clients. You could even hold a raffle for clients who tag your salon in their social posts. At the end of the month, hold a drawing and give away a selection of retail products or a salon gift card to one or two lucky winners.

Host a Halloween Nail Art Competition

Create a competition among your staff members by establishing a theme for each week of the month of October. At the end of each week, participating techs will submit their nail art and the salon owner and/or manager can judge the results. Consider eliminating contestants each week so that at the end you have a winner, or make it less competitive by allowing each week’s competition to stand alone.

Gift winners with silly prizes and bragging rights by highlighting the winner’s work in the salon each week. Not only is this a super-fun way to get in the spirit of the season, but it also creates camaraderie among your staff and allows your nail techs to really stretch their artistic ability.

AUTUMN IS PRACTICALLY THE STAR OF ALL NAIL SEASONS. BETWEEN THE SPICED LATTE AND MINI PUMPKIN “NAILFIES” AND THE WONDERFULLY SPOOKTACULAR HALLOWEEN NAIL ART DESIGNS, FOR MANICURISTS, THIS IS THE TIME TO CAPITALISE ON THE POPULARITY OF THIS SEASON TO BOOST YOUR BUSINESS.

Nail Artist : Nury Stella Avila Hernández (Colombia)

FROM THE TO THE

STAGE SCREEN

FILM, TV, AND THEATRE MAKEUP DESIGNER AND HAIRSTYLIST CHRISTINE BLUNDELL TOLD US HOW TO EXECUTE THE PERFECT LOOKS FOR STAGE PERFORMANCES, HOW TO REFINE SKILLS FOR THEATRE, AND MAKE EVERY PERSON WHO SITS IN YOUR CHAIR CONFIDENT AND HAPPY, WHETHER THEY’RE GOING ON STAGE, TV, OR FILM.

This huge industry name first got involved in hair and make-up when styling bands in the '70s and working in a salon in Kensington Market. Christine went on to open her own hairdressing salon, which she ran for five years before embarking on an intensive three-month make-up course. “After having run my hairdressing salon (Scallywags) for five years, I needed something more challenging. I sold up, moved back to London and studied makeup and hair in media.” After completing the course, she worked on Phantom of the Opera doing prosthetics and went on to work for LWT, gaining invaluable experience on sketch shows and TV and films.

Christine’s first feature with Mike Leigh was Life is Sweet, which marked the beginning of a long and successful 20-year working relationship. She produced 10 features with Micke, including Mr. Turner, which she received a BAFTA nomination for. Since then, Christine has won an Academy Award and a BAFTA for Topsy Turvy in 2000 and in 2004 received BAFTA nominations for both Vera Drake and Finding Neverland. Most recently, Christine has worked on Matthew Vaughn's Kingsman: The Secret Service, Brian Helgeland's Legend, Michael Grandage's Genius, Paddington 2, and Wonder Woman. She was even nominated for a BAFTA in 2022 for The Nevers HBO series.

It doesn’t end there! Christine was a major player in Guy Ritchie's Aladdin in September 2017. “After a short break, I begun filming with Bill Condon on The Good Liar in July 2018," she told us. "It was an incredible cast, headed by Dame Helen Mirren and Sir Ian McKellen. August 2018 was all about working on Aladdin pick-ups." Christine’s present production is Beetlejuice 2 with Tim Burton.

Education is another avenue that Christine has branched into. In 2006, she launched Christine Blundell Film, TV & Theatre Hair, Makeup & SFX Academy, sharing 20 years’ worth of knowledge

with budding film, TV, and theatre artists, including the young as well as the experienced. “I was inspired to create the school because I felt that in the training being provided in the UK, there was a lack of key skills. I have therefore designed the courses to ensure that every student graduating from the academy is at an industry-recognised level. School Director, Petar Agbaba, makes sure every student has the best possible experience.”

We wondered, what would you say are the main differences between normal makeup artistry and doing makeup for the stage/screen? “Normal makeup involves making the best of someone’s features. Film makeup involves following the story line.”

How do techniques differ between film and live theatre? “Techniques in theatre would be heavier for features to project on the stage, to the back of the audience. Film is much more subtle.”

What about Christine’s go-to products? “Good

foundations are essential. I use La Mere The Soft Fluid Long Wear Foundation. I can soften it up by adding oils. Also, concealers! I love Laura Mercier Flawless Fusion Ultra-Longwear Concealer and my go-to eyeshadow palette is Viseart Petites Mattes Neutral Eyeshadow Palette.”

Finally, Christine shared some gems of advice for how you can move from behind the chair onto sets and behind the camera. “Pay attention to all things film and TV; look at the background, look at the period, look at the story being told. Read the room –the energy you give out is the energy your actor will pick up on (that is what they are trained to do). You will need stable understanding of wigs, extensions, makeup techniques, colour matching, lashes, brows, and even timekeeping to then become a trainee in our industry. Especially for products – knowledge is key. Then, let your creativity run wild.”

Photography// Christine Blundell Film, TV & Theatre Hair, Makeup & SFX Academy

Makeup// Hannah Green

Makeup// Gary Parr

CRAZY COLOUR SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER AND RECOVERY TREATMENT

If your hair is dry, damaged, bleached and/or colour treated this powerful trio, each containing a nourishing Vegan Protein complex, will soothe, strengthen & care for your hair. Expect lustrous, glossy results!

From £12.50 //crazycolor.co.uk

MANIC PANIC HAIR CARE TRIO

FRINGE BENEFITS

THERE ALWAYS SEEMS TO BE THAT URGE TO REINVENT ONESELF EVERY SEPTEMBER. AND WHAT BETTER WAY TO DO SO THAN WITH A FRINGE? DENMAN AMBASSADOR BRANDON MESSINGER SHARES HIS BEST TIPS ON CREATING TRANSFORMATIVE FRINGES.

Brandon is a big fan of fringes, from the micro fringe to the curtain bang and everything in between. Here, he shares his wisdom on making sure that every fringe is a success.

The consultation

“In consultations, I consider four factors: growth pattern, density, texture, and suitability. Unless there's an extreme growth pattern, like a deep widows peak, I believe there's a fringe for everyone. It’s so important to explain maintenance and styling needs during the consultation process. The client may not achieve the desired look without daily styling – they just need to understand that.”

The execution

“Every fringe starts with a triangular section from the parting to the recession points, it’s just the depth that changes. I never point cut to create shape in a fringe; I blunt cut. After that, I elevate the central section as if taking a profile section and over

direct into the central line, which layers everything and gives a softer fall. After that, I might choose to point cut. I use the cleft of the lip and the tip of the nose as my guide on mid or longer fringes. For quick bangs, you can lift your triangular section, hold it and twist 360°. This makes the external points longer and the mid points shorter to give you a natural arc. I knock out growth patterns with my Denman D3 Original Styler and blow hair left to right repeatedly, then forward. For curtain bangs, roll hair back with a Denman Head Hugger and set with a cold shot or roll the hair around the contour on either side.”

The trend

“There’s always a fringe customer on the horizon. I do a lot of micro fringes these days and curtain bangs are definitely having a moment. I’m seeing a lot of texture, although I don’t like to straighten textured fringes too much as that becomes jarring. In short: fringes are always on trend!”.

A vegan and cruelty-free hair care system designed to tackle each stage of the vivid colour life. Whether it’s a gentle yet effective clarifying shampoo or the perfect duo to cleanse and nourish the hair without directly targeting the vibrant pigment, these products are perfect for use within the salon and for your clients at home!

£9.98 each // manic-panic.co.uk

COFFEE SCENTED LIQUID MONOMER

Provides a perky, fresh morning scent to manicure session to really liven up the atmosphere, all while keeping the air free of the typical nail monomer scent. It can be used in the same way as normal Mia secret monomer and retains all the benefits and strengths while giving a different, fresh experience.

£12.00 // miasecretstore.com

LA RICHE DIRECTIONS HAIR LIGHTENING BLEACH POWDER

This professional lightening bleach is to be mixed with Directions Cream Peroxide for professional and salonworthy results.

£10.50 // directionshaircolour.co.uk

DENMAN DELUXE D81M SCORPION STYLE & SHINE BRUSH

A beautiful but edgy pattern that is bound to leave an impression, this Style and Shine brush with its blend of synthetic and natural boar bristles gently detangles and smooths the hair, adding shine and gloss.

£17.50 // denmanbrush.com

Photography // Chris Bulezuik

HEY UP, as we say in Barnsley! Are you all ready for the business end of the year? I always think when the kids go back to school, winter’s ‘round the corner, and the dark nights approach… But, it’s also awards season and the most profitable time of the year, so embrace it, love it, and step into this next period with positive vibes and full of hope and desire.

I’m really excited to be launching my new podcast this month The Final Cut. It’s really different to what I’ve done before, and we’ve tried to bring guests in with a story or a topic – we want to stir the pot for discussions. Colour brands, heads of organisations, barbers, hairdressers, and CEOs… Season 1 has it all! From Andrew Barton, to Hayden Cassidy, Fellowship news and much more. Hope you love it has much as we do.

SOME PEOPLE TALK ABOUT YOU BECAUSE THEY’VE LOST THE PRIVILEGE TO TALK TO YOU.

If you want to be on the Final Cut please let us know why and what’s your story. Good luck suckers.

SHAW SAYS SHOP SHOUT

PROJECT: MEN

BBOTY

DIARY

11TH SEPTEMBER: PROJECT: MEN COLOUR DAY – WITH PAUL DENNISON PRO

6TH NOVEMBER: PROJECT GRAND FINALE

Project: Men had a great day out with Charlie Gray recently. The team travelled to Bolton in Lancashire to spend the day with Charles Gray. The morning consisted of a trend report and brand building digital lectures and a visual demonstration of an on-trend men's haircut from myself.  Followed by a handson cutting workshop in the afternoon, finishing off with a small review at the end of the day.

PRODUCT DROP

WAHL HIGH VISIBILIY TRIMMER

wahl.co.uk

MANIFESTO LONDON

Manifesto is the epitome of London cool. Located in the arches of the Coal Drops Yard, the Manifesto barbers are experts at their craft, with technical skills to the T. If you want to get more proficient at longer cutting and styles, check these guys out.

After nearly a year of being Wahl Barber of the Year, Charlie Baker will be coming aboard the Wahl Pro team as a more permanent fixture in the team. Fresh from his announcement, Kyle Rowland is awaiting his first duties post-coronation as the next Wahl Barber of the Year.

4TH DECEMBER: FELLOWSHIP LUNCHEON AND HAIR AWARDS 2023

DROPPIN' LIKE IT'S HOT

“I have become a big fan of whipping around on electric scooters while on holiday this summer.”

ANNOUNCEMENT! NEW ROLE FOR ALAN BEAK

Congratulations WAHL UK Creative Director, Alan Beak for his new role as Co-Lead of Project Men with me for 2024! Alan said: “To be even thought of to join the holy grail of the hair industry is absolutely massive and such a monumental opportunity so I can’t thank Simon and all at Wahl Pro enough. My role with Wahl itself as Creative Lead is locked in and ain’t going anywhere soon!”

Louis Vuitton Everyday LV Embroidered Mesh Cap

Hair// Alex Cook, Jessica Hau, Darrel Starkey, Lydia Wolfe. Creative Direction and Concept// Errol Douglas MBE. Photography// Chris Bulezuik Photography. Make-Up// Elizabeth Rita. Clothes Stylist// Anna Latham. Products// Avlon UK, Jacqui Mcintosh.

INCLUSIVITY STARTS WITH EDUCATION. DO YOU KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HAIR TYPE 1A AND 4C? ARE YOU COMFORTABLE WORKING WITH ANY TEXTURE OF HAIR THAT IS IN YOUR CHAIR? IF NOT, LET YOUR TEXTURE JOURNEY START HERE!

BY JACQUI MCINTOSH

OUR COLUMNIST JACQUI MCINTOSH IS EUROPEAN DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION AT AVLON. SHE TALKS BRITISH AFRO HAIRDRESSING, LOOKING AT HOW WE CAN DO BETTER. IT ALL STARTS WITH GETTING THREE STAGES OF EDUCATION INTO THE MAINSTREAM: CULTURAL HISTORY, BUSINESS SENSIBILITY, AND THE PRACTICAL EXECUTION OF AFRO HAIRDRESSING.

In any industry, the professional must understand the social and physiological mentality of their clients in order to provide the best possible services – and hairdressing is no exception.

I must understand my client’s personality and background so that when I'm behind the chair, I can speak to them with language that they understand and with an acknowledgement of where they're coming from. This is especially important with Textured hair clients. You must understand the history and background of their hair because you can't advise them on haircare if you have no underpinning knowledge of that hair's history, that hair's characteristics, or that hair's capabilities.

We have no historical education surrounding the contributions that people of colour have

brought to British hairdressing. There's nothing documented! We know who the pioneers are within general hairdressing and their contribution to the industry. For example, everybody knows who Vidal Sassoon is and everybody knows who Trevor Sorbie is. There's no doubt about the positive impact they've had on hairdressing across the board, but we've had the equivalent people doing incredible work in Afro hairdressing for just as long. As an industry, does anybody know who they are? No, they don't.

I can't blame the industry for that. But I feel that moving forward, people like me (being in the position of education) must make sure that we spread that light so that moving forward, there is a curation about Afro hairdressing in the UK, and the impact it’s had.

Even when you look at the Wind Rush era.

We're talking about celebrating that, but not about how much it impacted Afro hairdressing in the UK. A lot of those women who came from the Caribbean were hairdressers. They had to bring a lot of their tools and products with them to the UK because there was nothing here to accommodate Afro hairdressing. Even that is part of the foundation of British Afro hairdressing. So, it's about making sure that people gain an understanding as to why the industry may be in the state that it's in right now; how the salons have built themselves up and are still actively practising in the industry; and appreciating the journey that a lot of our predecessors who owned businesses had to go through to create this part of our industry that everybody now wants a piece of.

In a modern-day context, I think we need to develop three tiers of education that will set stylists up for success within Textured hair.

1. Historical cultural education. I was always raised that if you don't know your history, you don't know your future. If we want to break down barriers and create this amalgamation of culture, textures, and respectability across the board, then those historical fundamentals need to be understood.

2. Business education . Boosting accessibility of your salon/services so that people of colour feel comfortable enough to come in and then become a returning client.

3. Hands-on practical hairdressing education. This means designing top-class education on how to execute the styles and cuts themselves.

I think that the Fellowship for British Hairdressing's Project AFRO is especially important within the current education climate because it gives mentees access to the cultural and practical expertise of some of the UK’s most renowned Textured hair experts. 

Photography //Chris Bulezuik Photography

“YOU MUST UNDERSTAND THE HISTORY AND YOU MUST UNDERSTAND THEIR BACKGROUND, BECAUSE HOW DO YOU THEN ADVISE PEOPLE ON HAIRCARE IF YOU HAVE NO UNDERPINNING KNOWLEDGE OF THAT HAIR'S HISTORY, THAT HAIR'S CHARACTERISTICS OR THAT HAIR'S CAPABILITIES?”

Image Source// Jacqui McIntosh

We had Sandra Gittens, Afro hair historian and author in Afro hairdressing, come to one of the groups and students were blown away at the history of Afro hairdressing in England. I just think it's important that British Afro hairdressing gets its platform.

Additonally, next year is going to be Avlon’s 40 th anniversary. My role as their European Director of Education is to look at how we make a difference in 2024. Coming from working with the most fragile of hair types, Dr Ali Syed is the master chemist in the Textured hair market. His knowledge of understanding how to allow products to sit within the hair texture and be compatible and not reduce the capabilities of that hair has been second to none.

Now, whilst moving through the 2020s, he's looking at how the landscape has changed.

Textured hair has evolved! Even Caucasian women with textured hair have realised that they have been underserved with a lot of the products that have been produced. Avlon as a company sits across the boundaries of Textured hair, and has been paramount in delivering education for over 39 years. For our 40 th , I must explore how we can take that to the next level. I feel it's about opening the doors to making our education accessible to all, so if people are interested, they have a powerhouse of knowledge and resources that they can refer to in order to gain the information required to support their journey.

We've forged an amazing UK industry within Afro hair; one that the rest of the world wants to embrace. I see it as my responsibility to use the platform of Project AFRO and my role with Avlon to give all hair professionals access to top-tier education that equips them with the historical understanding and practical ability they need to execute the healthiest, most beautiful, and most respectful services for their Textured hair clients. •

“

AVLON HAS BEEN PARAMOUNT IN DELIVERING EDUCATION FOR NEARLY FOUR DECADES, SO I'M EXPLORING HOW WE TAKE THAT TO THE NEXT LEVEL.”

The Project Afro Team spending the day at the with Renowned Author and Afro Hair Historian, Sandra Gittens, discussing the African-Caribbean hairdressing sector and her personal journey. Image Source: AJC PR

Fame Team// Chris Bulezuik Photography

Fame Team/ Chris Bulezuik Photography

THE BEST OF THE BEST

Avlon’s top offerings for Textured or Afro hair.

1. As I Am Rice Water range

“Made with Forbidden Black Rice Water to suppress hair loss and strengthen the hair. This unique formulation is submicron, meaning that it works from a follicular level. This is one of our generation products that sits

2. As I Am Long & Luxe range

“A range for your curly hair client and clients with coarser European hair that need more moisture.”

3. KeraCare

“Our heritage brand and our most prolific retail line. It's been with us from the start of the business, so it's held its position in the marketplace for nearly 40 years. Even within the KeraCare line, there are items for all hair types. Our LeaveIn Conditioner, Detangling Conditioning Mist, and our 6-in1 and Strengthening Thermal Protectors are all suitable across all hair types. Frizz Elixir for heat styling is second to none.”

THE ART OF

In our last interview with Michelle Sultan (SalonEVO UK Issue 15) we talked about her journey from working in her aunt’s salon in New York, where her love and passion for hair was first born. But it was when Michelle came back to the UK to get her qualifications at Kingston College that she knew she had a real talent for working with hair of all textures.

She explained: “When I was at college, we would be asked to bring in models to practice on. So, I would bring my friends and family in, who mostly all had Textured hair. So, it just felt natural and innate to me to work with all textures of hair. It wasn’t really something I even thought about.”

But as Michelle progressed in her career, her talent soon became noticed, and opportunities started coming her way, like getting to work with Mis-Teeq, and then later working in TV, music, and even getting to tour with Beyoncé. Michelle said: “My skill in Textured hair has definitely opened doors for me, getting to work with all sorts of celebrities and on amazing projects. However, it has been a bit of a doubleedged sword at times.”

Michelle continued: “Being an expert at something like Textured hair does give you amazing opportunities, however, I feel that at times it has held me back because people may have seen me as just an Afro hair specialist, when I actually love working with all types of hair. While it is important to champion Texture specialists, I think it is also important to not pigeonhole us into one area of the industry.”

When you get down to it, while the word ‘texture’ is often associated with tighter patterns and curls, ALL hair is ‘textured’. And it is precisely that variety within the textures of hair that keeps Michelle so passionate about her job. She said: “Hair is so beautiful in all of its forms. I see it as a material, like a fabric. You will never come across two heads of hair that are the same. So being about to showcase that in its most beautiful, finest form is such a pleasure. It's something that keeps me creative and passionate. It’s the same as if you were a painter or a sculptor, having all these different fabrics and textures to work with and play around with is just so rewarding. And getting to work with tools from brands like BaByliss PRO makes it all just so much more fun. Having access to the best tools in the business makes it easy to be creative.”

Michelle has been using and loving BaByliss PRO tools since her early days in the industry. I asked Michelle how she has seen the brand evolve over the years, and why she is so proud to be a BaByliss PRO Ambassador today. She said: “I have always loved working with BaByliss PRO tools, but since becoming an ambassador for the brand, I have become an even bigger fan. BaByliss PRO is a brand that really listens to professionals. As a Texture expert, I feel like BaByliss PRO has really listened to me, my needs, my ideas, and the daily struggles I’ve faced, and they’ve created tools to make our lives as stylists better!

“One tool I am especially excited about is the new BaByliss PRO Falco Dryer. It was an honour

“

BABYLISS PRO IS A BRAND THAT REALLY LISTENS TO PROFESSIONALS. AS A TEXTURE EXPERT, I FEEL LIKE BABYLISS PRO HAS REALLY LISTENED TO ME, MY NEEDS, MY IDEAS, AND THE DAILY STRUGGLES I’VE FACED, AND THEY’VE CREATED TOOLS TO MAKE OUR LIVES AS STYLISTS BETTER!”

to be one of the first hairstylists in the UK to even see the tool, let alone get to use it. And as soon as I started working with it, I knew my voice had been heard. The dryer is smaller, lighter, and sleeker, yet has incredible power which massively cuts down on the time to dry hair. The temperature controls are really important, as different textures require different levels of heat, and can’t all be treated the same. The dryer comes with a diffuser attachment which is great for drying the client’s hair naturally, but the comb attachment is my personal favourite. Unlike a lot of comb attachments that can just ping off when you’re pulling it through the hair, this attachment is stronger, making an easier pull through, leaving you with smooth, shiny hair, in far less time.”

Michelle has had some major milestones in her career, but she said that this last year has been an especially mad one. I asked her for a couple of pinch-me moments. She said: “Sometimes I have to step back in the quiet periods and go, ‘Wow, this has been insane.’ This year was big for me, not just because of the size of the jobs, but just the fun randomness of them. For example, I have a client who is having a wax statue made of her in Madame Tussauds. And I always knew what Madame Tussauds was, but never realised the process behind it. So, I went into the head office with her to speak to the artist in charge of her hair! We talked about all the important intricacies and detail. So then, I did her hair at the studio that day, and now that exact hairstyle is going to be forever immortalised in wax!

“ONE TOOL I AM ESPECIALLY EXCITED ABOUT IS THE NEW BABYLISS PRO FALCO DRYER. IT WAS AN HONOUR TO BE ONE OF THE FIRST HAIRSTYLISTS IN THE UK TO EVEN SEE THE TOOL, LET ALONE GET TO USE IT. AND AS SOON AS I STARTED WORKING WITH IT, I KNEW MY VOICE HAD BEEN HEARD. THE DRYER IS SMALLER, LIGHTER, AND SLEEKER, YET HAS INCREDIBLE POWER WHICH MASSIVELY CUTS DOWN ON THE TIME TO DRY HAIR.”

“Another fun thing has been getting to work on the sight of the Great British Bake Off, with the newest host, Alison Hammond. Until I was there, I had never realised the global reach that Bake Off has, so it is really cool to think that my hair is going to be seen worldwide! I want to be sharing it all on my Instagram, but no spoilers ‘til the season begins!”

Finally, I asked Michelle what advice she has for stylists in the early days of their career, looking up to her as a role model. She said: “Okay, I know it sounds cheesy. But on those days, those weeks, when you feel like you just can’t do it all. I tell myself: I have the same 24 hours in a day as Beyonce. Just push through, and you’ll get there.

“But the thing is, you also have to balance pushing yourself, with being kind to yourself. You don’t have to kill yourself to get ahead. Give yourself time to rest, to daydream, to get inspired. It is a really hard balance to find, but both sides are equally important if you want to find success.

“I would also say, don’t forget to slow down and enjoy it! Hairdressers have the best jobs! Keep an open mind, keep learning, and you’ll get there.”

Embrace your natural hair texture

The new textured hair heroes with Murumuru “Butter” and Lineseed Oil deeply hydrate andenhance naturally textured hair. Join the #AuthenticBeautyMovement. Discover more at www.authenticbeautyconcept.com AuthenticBeautyConceptUK

HYDRATING

Authentic Beauty Concept's new textured hair heroes are designed to enhance the most diverse natural hair textures, from the softest waves to the tightest coils. Whether your curls have been neglected and need help to be restored to their natural best, or you have experienced damage as a result of heat styling or chemical processes, the new trio of products offer formulas to get your texture back on track.

Co-created with influential curl expert and US salon owner, Evan Joseph and validated with our knowledgeable #authenticbeautymovement community in extensive workshops, the versatile products can be mixed and matched with each other, or with the rest of the Authentic Beauty Concept range, to achieve targeted results for every client’s individual hair texture. Designed to enhance the

Authentic Beauty Concept Hydrate Intense Treatment

For a hit of intense nourishment whenever your hair needs it. With its rich formula, this intensely hydrating treatment mask deeply moisturises and increases manageability, while enhancing the natural shine of your hair. Suitable for all hair textures, as well as coloured hair, curls are defined, frizz is reduced, and your style is left feeling lightweight and silky-soft. Apply to clean, damp hair and leave in for 5-10 minutes before rinsing thoroughly.

AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT

Online and Digital:

To learn more about the new textured hair heroes and all product lines, as well as the

natural pattern of your hair, each product offers a solution for wavy and curly hair, with ingredients to help to seal the hair shaft, helping your style to appear smoother and frizz-free. Think greater definition with zero crunch, plus anti-porosity for a weightless finish. Used independently or combined, the products add bounce and strength back into your curls, helping restore the shape – ideal if you are on a journey to regain your natural texture.

Matt Surplice, Authentic Beauty Concept UK advocate, curl expert and salon owner said “The curl range by Authentic Beauty Concept is making premium haircare more inclusive, ensuring professionals have incredible products for every hair type. This new range is rich in moisture for ultimate curl definition without being oily or heavy. It works

Authentic Beauty Concept

Hydrate Curl Enhancer

A deeply-hydrating leave-in gel with a lightweight formula to perfectly define curls – without crunch! Offering our highest level of curl definition plus medium hold for curls and coils, the jelly consistency is easy to apply, protecting hair from humidity, reducing frizz and enhancing natural shine. The hair’s surface is smoothed, and curl shape is accentuated, with a soft finish and flexible hold. To use, apply to damp hair before styling, distributing evenly from roots to ends.

brands commitment to sustainability, explore the AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT website: authenticbeautyconcept.com.

You can also join and connect with the

throughout the curl spectrum from waves to tight coils, which is exactly what the range needed. The current portfolio has always worked well on natural curls, but this has added that element of sealing the moisture in to give those curls extra longevity.”

All three products are formulated with sustainably sourced Murumuru "Butter" and Linseed Oil, both known to nourish and strengthen the hair. Murumuru "Butter", a natural emollient, is renowned for its moisturising properties and offers natural protection from sun damage, heat and other harmful compounds. Linseed Oil is rich in Omega-3 fatty acids, which help enhance the hair’s moisture content while strengthening. This powerful ingredient is also a rich source of vitamin E, B1, B2, B6, and biotin, which together help enhance the hair’s elasticity.

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Hydrate Smoothing Serum

Lightweight and deeply hydrating, this water-based serum reduces frizz and smooths the surface of the hair. For beautiful curl

definition without heaviness, this nourishing serum enhances shine, leaving hair feeling silky soft. Use on damp or dry hair, applying a small amount of serum through lengths and ends and repeating as needed.

HOLISTIC PREMIUM BRAND, AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT HAS LAUNCHED THREE TEXTURED HAIR HEROES INTO ITS HYDRATE RANGE AS PART OF THEIR ONGOING COMMITMENT TO EMBRACING INCLUSIVITY AND CELEBRATING NATURAL BEAUTY.

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DIONNE SMITH (@DIONNESMITHHAIR) IS A CELEBRITY HAIR ARTIST, WITH A REFINED ABILITY TO MAKE EVERY CLIENT LOOK POWERFUL AND BEAUTIFUL, WHETHER THEY’RE ON THE RED CARPET OR IN FRONT OF THE CAMERA. DIONNE IS OUR BRAIDING EXPERT FOR THIS FEATURE AND TELLS US HOW TO MAKE THEM RED-CARPET-PROOF.

Dionne boasts an enviable client list that includes Bridgerton’s Golda Rosheuvel, Heartstopper’s Corinna Brown, Leigh-Anne Pinnock of Little Mix, Teyonah Parris of The Marvels and many more. We asked this hair powerhouse how she built her career in celebrity styling. “It all began when I started styling my younger sisters’ hair from a young age, then working on clients in my community as a side hobby. Eventually, I realised I can do this full time. From that moment, my career just blossomed.”

It was actually a client who funded Dionne’s first salon, which allowed her to learn more about the industry and easily manage clients whilst nurturing her skills for Textured hair. “Soon after, I went freelance and became the Dionne Smith you know of today.”

Dionne told us that she prides herself on designing intricate braided hairstyles. “I aim to challenge the norm in Textured hair and show there’s no limit to styling Afro hair. I’m always drawing inspiration from historical styles and adding my signature to it.”

We know that celebs have crazy lifestyles and often want different styles for every event or red carpet – and they can have multiple events per month! But protective styles like braids normally stay in for about six to eight weeks. So, we asked Dionne how she would style the braids to make them look different. “The hairstyles curated must compliment their clothes and makeup. Once that’s determined, I start brainstorming ideas on how to elevate the already-made hairstyle. When the hair is already braided, I explore elements that can be moved around, recreated, enhanced. External factors such as subtle beads or strings can make it look different too! Planning ahead is key.”

What does Dionne do to ensure that braids look immaculate on the red carpet and on camera?

“Braids must be tight enough to look neat and tidy, but not too tight! You must be careful to avoid adding pressure to their scalp – it needs to be comfortable enough for them to go about their day and strut that red carpet. Mousses are a great finishing product. I generally apply this to the braids and set with a blow dryer or hooded hair dryer and it finishes the look perfectly! I can’t live without my hair pins. They hold everything in place and can easily be removed."

We got some essential advice on prepping the scalp and natural hair for braiding. “Use a cleansing shampoo that works depending on the hair type and its needs. I recommend sulphate-free products containing natural oils and shea butter. Follow with a nourishing/hydrating shampoo to moisturise, soften, and condition. We must not forget deep conditioning your strands for 15-20 mins – once again, look for ingredients that work for your client. Sectioning the hair and detangling from ends to roots keeps breakage at bay and releases knots too. Once done, your client is ready to get braided!"

It can be difficult to know which brands actually provide the quality you need to execute the coolest and most impressive looks whilst ensuring hair and scalp health. Dionne gave some insight: "At the moment, the brands I use to achieve maximum care are a mixture of Pantene Gold, Ouai, Black Up and Gummy. Once a brand understands the importance of healthy hair and works hard to offer accessible

products, they’ve got my support – and that’s why I love these brands.”

Which products are her go-tos? “Pantene Gold Series Moisture Boost Shampoo & Conditioner –the smell is just divine. Ouai Leave-In Conditioner because it's super hydrating and doubles up as a heat protectant. Then we have the blackUp Oil Elixir, then Gummy for edges and to keep them laid!

“Cantu Edges Baby Hair Styler is my go-to for sculpting edges and taming flyaways. I use this to gently design and lay edges. It’s a 2-in-1 brush, so perfect for any up-do hairstyles – e.g bantu knots and ponytails.”

Finally, how does Dionne keep her clients happy and energised throughout long braiding sessions? “Good vibes and energy! Long braiding sessions can be tiring (I don’t tend to do these kinds of sessions very often) but I try to make them as comfortable as possible and engage in conversations. Creating an amusing space never fails either!”

BRAIDING HAIR

Dionne told us which braiding hair types are best to use for which styles.

1. Kanekalon – Single braids, cornrows, twists.

2. Synthetic - Single braids, cornrows, twists, crochet.

3. Toyokalon - Single braids, cornrows, twists, crochet, full hair weaves.

4. Spectra - Single braids, cornrows, twists.

5. Afrelle - Single braids, cornrows, twists.

Photography// MCMLONDON Hair// Dionne Smith @Dionnesmithhair

Photography// Rankin. Stylist// Lucy Parker. Beauty Editor// Marco Antonio. Hair Editor// Nick Irwin. Model// Sophia Laura. Producer// Sarah Stanbury.

AL L ABOUT

BY NICK IRWIN

SALONEVO COLUMNIST AND WORLD-RENOWNED SESSION STYLIST NICK IRWIN GIVES YOU AN IN-DEPTH RUN-THROUGH OF HOW HE CREATED THE HAIR STORY FOR HIS RECENT SHOOT

STEP BY STEP

STEP ONE: It’s Time to Frizz

Photography// Pre-Loved & Pre-Invented, HUNGER Magazine x Vinted, Issue 28, 2023 © Rankin

Styling afro and textured hair in a way that is kind to the scalp and hair itself means taking time to understand the hair before making it cameraready. Touch it, play with it, and ask questions. Remember, though, if a person of colour comes onto your set, always ask them for consent before you go touching and playing with their hair. Respect their space.

A lot of refining a look on set comes down to defining the story that the brand is trying to tell, selecting the right model, and understanding the nuances of your model’s hair type.

Our model for the Pre-Loved & Pre-Invented, HUNGER Magazine x Vinted shoot (left), Sophia Laura, was about 17 years old from Salvador. Her hair wasn’t completely afro, but it did have volume. Its real definition and shape came from her natural coils, which were pretty tight. The thinner almost fluffy freeness that you see in the final shots came from her having a looser curl at her roots, and from me picking up a Primp Boar Bristle Brush. More on that later…

As a session stylist, it is imperative to learn how to style textured hair. It seems silly in 2023 to have to emphasise that inclusivity matters, but we still haven't achieved total representation. Session hairstyling is a form of media – our work goes in magazines, on billboards, in branding

all techniques that I readapt for Caucasian hair to this day. When it came to styling Sophia’s hair on shoot day, I was able to play around with the natural shape because she washed it and let it air dry at home the night before. Generally, if you get hold of model management beforehand, you can make sure the model preps their hair appropriately. Sophia did her usual routine of washing and sleeping with a leave-in deep moisturising or restorative

Ordinarily, if you want to refine the curl a bit more, you go in with a tong. However, we wanted to create more frizz, so took thin micro sections and brushed back the way, starting from the front hair line. I used a Primp Boar Bristle Brush is a professional session toolkit essential. The brush fibres are strong and quite tight together, which means that as you brush the hair, it frizzes. You can also use a Pearson Brush but avoid anything with wide teeth – that means no wide tooth combs. You

invisible hair nets are a great taming tool that helps you control volume and hold that shape. To be fair, I also used a wind machine for this shoot to create some of those lighter-weight shapes.

STEP FOUR: Finish with Purpose

If you look at that texture in the final photos, you'll see parts of it that might look like I’ve missed a bit or left some out. But that was meant! Also, if somebody gets into trouble and over brushes, making the hair too frizzy, these steps are another way of rehydrating the curl.

Ultimately, this style is a mixture of enhanced frizz built on the appearance of a raw curl. All aspects are natural and very purposeful. Someone might look at the photos and think, ‘Oh, that’s just the girl’s normal hair.’ That’s proof that we’ve done the job well. There’s so much work that goes into this weightless, frizzy style. It takes talent to pull off work that goes straight over the consumer’s head!

WITH VINTED, AND WHY IT’S IMPORTANT TO REFINE TEXTURED HAIRSTYLING SKILLS – ESPECIALLY IF YOU WANT TO TAKE THE LEAP FROM COMMERCIAL INTO EDITORIAL.

“

WHEN IT CAME TO STYLING SOPHIA’S HAIR ON SHOOT DAY, I WAS ABLE TO PLAY AROUND WITH THE NATURAL SHAPE BECAUSE SHE WASHED IT AND LET IT AIR DRY AT HOME THE NIGHT BEFORE.”

HEY, FRIEND!

As a child, Emma always wanted to be ‘not just a hairdresser’. “I wanted to be a salon owner,” she told SalonEVO. “At 14, I started my work experience in a local salon in York and knew without any doubt that it was a career that I wanted to pursue.

“Many of the clients had Afro hair and so I learned to cleanse and prep the clients for the stylist and had the opportunity to watch closely as they worked on the hair. I was always amazed by the different techniques in terms of what I was being taught at college with Caucasian hair. I started trying some of the different styling techniques on my own frizzy hair and realised I was curly – just hadn’t known how to look after my curls correctly.”

Emma’s mission began – she embarked on a journey to ensure that she would be able to work with all textures of hair. By widening her knowledge and technique repertoire she was able to help more and more clients understand how to get the best from their hair, which resulted in Emma opening her own salon at the age of 21.

For Emma, being a ‘curl specialist’ was a way of letting potential clients know that they could sit in her chair without anxiety.

“I want everyone to leave my chair with a grin from ear to ear feeling every bit as gorgeous as they should. I was being told by a lot of my curly clients that hairdressers they had visited had opted to straighten their hair – or even worse, suggest they leave the salon with wet hair along with the suggestion that they style it themselves.”

No surprise then that when Emma styled their hair into their natural coils and waves and they walked out of the salon with a spring in their step, feeling like a million dollars. She’d earned herself a client for life. Emma didn’t promote herself as a ‘curl specialist’ until more recently. “For me, it was normality to be able to work with every texture, it’s like a tailor not being able to work with cotton or silk, it just shouldn’t happen – hair is just like a fabric and hairdressers should all be able to work with all the hair types and textures.”

With the advent of the ‘curly girl’ movement, Emma saw that she was getting an increasing number of bookings as more and more people were embracing their natural curls. Clients also started to recommend Emma on their social media groups thus earning her the title ‘Curl Queen’.

Emma walked us through the different hair types from 1a to 4c. How does she determine what hair type her client has, and how does that inform how she will approach her cut? “There is a simple way of identifying curl patterns using the universal curl chart. It goes from 1-4. 1 is straight, 2 is wavy, 3 is curly, 4 is kinky, coily. Each category is then subdivided into A, B and C which are determined by the shape and diameter of the curl. So, for example, type 1A is straight, type 2B slightly more defined waves and type 4C is the tightest curl pattern, very dense with lots of shrinkage.

“It’s really important to identify the client's curl types, they can have different types on one head of curls too, the curl types determine the cutting techniques used and where you might choose to build shape or remove weight, depending on what the client wants. Knowing the curl type also helps you to advise the client on what it is or isn’t possible shape-wise for their hair.”

What are Emma’s must-have cutting tools for curly hair? She said: “One thing I never ever use on curls is thinning scissors, these only cause more frizz and disturb the curl pattern. I use a range of techniques to remove weight or length and therefore use a range of scissors with different lengths of blades. My favourites are the Matakki Elite Supernova Damascus steel, they’re super sharp and give such a nice edge ensuring the cut is clean and not frayed, and the Matakki Black Ninja glide through the hair making carving the curl effortless. I rarely use a cutting comb but when I do I use a wide detangler so as not to put tension and pull on the curl. And the two things I cannot be without are my Dyson dryer and diffuser and my jumbo tail comb by Marco Arena.”

What about haircare and aftercare? “For haircare, my go-to is the Revlon Professional ReStart Curls range. It has no hidden nasty ingredients so the curls are always hydrated and silky, and I love the fact that as well as a more intensive mask they have an everyday conditioner that can be either rinsed out or left in, dependent on the curl's needs.

And styling/finishing products? Emma said: “I find keeping things simple is the best way to style curls, my favourite cocktail being curl cream with a little gel over the top. I love Revlon Professional ReStart Curl Cream topped off with Alter Ego’s Love Me Curl Gel. And the best finishing oil I’ve found is Davro’s Curlicue Oil – it’s hydrating yet super light and absorbs easily leaving the curls soft, shiny and frizz-free.”

Photography // Dan Thomas & Paul Simmons.

IT’S OFFICIAL! MULTI AWARD-WINNING HAIRDRESSER EMMA SIMMONS IS ‘ THE CURL QUEEN ’. EMMA IS OWNER OF SALON54 IN THIRSK, NORTH YORKSHIRE, AND IS RENOWNED FOR HER SKILLS IN WORKING WITH CURLS AND COILS OF ALL KINDS. SHE SHARED HINTS AND TIPS FOR EXECUTING THE FINEST CURLS

FINDING

NAOMI BROOKS IS THE OWNER OF THE HAIR SANCTUARY LTD, AN AFRO HAIR SPECIALIST SALON BASED IN MANCHESTER. SHE IS ALSO A PASSIONATE TEXTURED HAIR EDUCATOR AND FOUNDER OF THE HAIR SANCTUARY TRAINING GROUP CIC – A TRAINING ACADEMY FOCUSING SOLELY ON AFRO HAIR AND BLACK SKINCARE AND MAKEUP.

Naomi first found her passion in hair when she was just 10 years old. She said: “I started getting creative with hair when I learned how to braid and fell in love with creating shapes, patterns and designs with hair. What keeps me passionate about the industry is that there is always something to learn and many ways you can evolve as a hairdresser.”

We first wanted to know a bit more about Naomi’s salon, The Hair Sanctuary, and what kind of space she wanted to create in the industry.

Naomi explained: “The Hair Sanctuary is a hub for people of all hair types, but especially those with kinky, coily and curly textures to feel safe, accepted and educated on their hair. My inspiration behind the salon was to create a space that provides luxury in the Afro hair market and to remove the negative stigma that surrounds them. Also, to be clearly visible and

identified as a salon that can service all hair types.”

As an educator, salon owner, and session stylist as well, Naomi’s days tend to vary from day to day. She said: “One day I can be on set, the next I can be teaching a texture class and then others I can be behind the chair servicing clients. To be able to manage my roles I must be very organised and always have my calendar to hand. Having a supportive team is vital to enable me to do what I do.

“As a texture expert, I get to get involved in different aspects of the industry. When doing session work, I will be taking the lead or assisting other stylists on set with textured hair models which can be fast-paced but great fun. As an educator, I teach hairdressers all about Afro and curly hair so they can be confident in inviting clients into their salon or working with texture models on set. I’m a freelancer in the

education space so I work from my academy or with brands and their network or salons directly. Then in my salon, I service clients, manage my team, take the lead on creative projects, train apprentices and do the day-to-day admin tasks.”

As a successful stylist, salon owner, and editorial artist, I asked Naomi what inspired her to also get into the education side of the industry. She explained: “I naturally love to teach and share what I know with others. It came to the forefront more so when I noticed the lack of salons offering services for Afro and curly hair as well as the stories I hear from clients of traumatic experiences in the salons. I believed a change was necessary and much wasn’t being done in colleges or other training facilities, so I made it my mission to create change wherever and however possible.”

So, Naomi started The Hair Sanctuary (THS) Training Group, which aims to create textureneutral environments in which black and mixed heritage people feel confident and safe to express themselves authentically. “We offer courses like beginner and advanced braiding which is a great skill to learn as braids are a foundation for a lot of styles with textured hair. We also run hair extension courses, makeup for dark skin as well as an introduction to Afro hair.

“Stylists can expect to learn how to care for, provide protective styles and key aftercare when working with textured hair. Our courses are aimed at building the confidence of each stylist to take what they learn back to their salons.”

Finally, I asked Naomi what she wished more stylists knew about working with Afro hair. She said: “I want stylists to understand that Afro hair isn’t strong, difficult, and able to withstand force and high manipulation. It’s quite fragile and must be handled with care, but also versatile and great to work with.”

Photography // Narita Savoor

“I WANT STYLISTS TO UNDERSTAND THAT AFRO HAIR ISN’T STRONG, DIFFICULT, AND ABLE TO WITHSTAND FORCE AND HIGH MANIPULATION. IT’S QUITE FRAGILE AND MUST BE HANDLED WITH CARE, BUT ALSO VERSATILE AND GREAT TO WORK WITH.”

TYPES

TYPE 1 // STRAIGHT TYPE 2 // WAVY

DENMAN DELUXE DC11 ORCHID SKULL DETANGLING COMB

This full wrap pattern is scratch proof, durable and heat resistant. The wide rounded teeth are perfect for wet detangling and thick, curly hair.

£9.00 // denmanbrush.com

NEÄL & WØLF HYDRATE MOISTURE MASK

Designed with stylists in mind, professional haircare specialists Neäl & Wølf have launched a rich and intensely conditioning HYDRATE Moisture Mask designed to transform the look and feel of dry hair in just one use.

£22.95 // nealandwolf.com

AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT THREE TEXTURED HAIR HEROES

Designed to enhance the most diverse natural hair textures, from the softest waves to the tightest coils. Whether curls have been neglected and need help to be restored to their natural best, or have experienced damage, the new trio of products of fer formulas to get texture back on track.

£37.60 // authenticbeautyconcept.com

TYPE 3 // CURLY TYPE 4 // COILY

UBERLISS FRIZZ ELIXIR

Uberliss continues to build its product portfolio in the UK with the launch of Uberliss Frizz Elixir. Providing triple protection against frizz, humidity and thermal damage, this versatile spray helps to control static while smoothing and softening the

BABYLISS PRO FALCO HAIRDRYER

This revolutionary hairdryer launches in September 2023. Crafted with insights from top stylists, it boasts quiet performance and innovation. With precision styling tools, intelligent heat control, a reimagined design for comfort, and enhanced durability, it’s a game-changer for stylists seeking impeccable results.

DIVERSITY IS

POWER

BY SAM MARSHALL

THE GENERAL DEFINITION OF UNCONSCIOUS BIAS REFERS TO THE HUMAN TENDENCY TO FORM OPINIONS ABOUT OTHERS WITHOUT RELEVANT INFORMATION. SALONEVO COLUMNIST, EDUCATOR, AND SPEAKER SAM MARSHALL TELLS US HOW TO BOOST DIVERSITY IN YOUR SALON AND THE INDUSTRY AT LARGE.

We’re striving every day to eradicate prejudice in our industry and one major step is acknowledging unconscious bias and assessing how we can combat it. Bias can stem from stereotypes, preconceived notions, past experiences, or gut instinct. Unconscious bias occurs when an individual is unaware of a prejudice. There are a few that exist in the hair and beauty world and come from all angles, whether that’s assuming that beauty therapists aren’t academically gifted or that only women can become beauty professionals. And then there’s major biases that still exist and are still taboo within race and gender.

We have to be open to learning – approaching cultural education in the same way we approach our education surrounding innovations and new techniques in our industry. I'm still learning so much about unconscious bias and how it manifests in different contexts.

Localised unconscious bias might dictate that someone who isn't a beauty therapist couldn't be a manager or franchise a salon business because they don't have practical experience. On a cultural level, we might assume that a Caucasian hairdresser won’t have the skills to work with textured hair. A good example of that is multi award-winning session stylist, educator, and designer Lisa Farrall. She was on E4’s The Big Blowout and has won multiple awards for her work with textured hair types.

Another key element is acknowledging and being aware of unconscious bias during recruitment processes. Another term is ‘implicit bias’, which is what happens when we act on subconscious, deeply ingrained biases, stereotypes, and attitudes formed

from our inherent human cognition, experiences, upbringing, and environment. When recruiting, it's easy to form biases from someone's CV. Unfortunately, the beauty industry is bad for aesthetic biases –sometimes an employer might not hire a prospective stylist because their appearance or photos don't match their vision. Not to mention sensory disabilities, mobility issues, body shapes or neurodivergence –there’s a huge bias there, with recruitment leaning toward the able-bodied.

Let’s talk about solutions! A great first step is counter-stereotyping. Exposure to information that defies persistent stereotypes about certain groups, such as images of male nurses, can counter gender-based stereotypes, for example. There are also certain aspects of the recruitment process that should be removed. Blind screen your applicants by removing date of birth and covering headshots, names,and addresses, so everyone gets a fair chance at being put forward for an interview. Not only will this put applicants on an even starting point, but the recruitment pool also expands, meaning you have access to more talent.

Education in our industry is a tricky one as well. Although including in the National Ocuupational

Standards, it's not mandatory for every course to have education in styling and caring for different ethnicities. The industry has vastly improved in the last decade and many brands like Redken and Vidal Sassoon are spotlighting texture hair education in their academies. In terms of cosmetology and skincare, we have increasing education on how to care for melanin-rich skin. Huge brands like Dermalogica are making big moves right now. Their Treating Melanin-Rich Skin course is free to everyone too!

Secondly, colleges need to welcome a diverse range of people for students to work and practice on. If students live in a predominantly Caucasian area, it is essential to recruit models of different cultures, so they don’t skip truly essential skills that enable them to treat every kind of client.

For more experienced professionals, it’s important to enrol in continuous professional development (CPD) for themselves and their teams. So much can change in even just five years! My HABIA endorsed Trans Awareness course raises gender diversity awareness and helps keep you up to date.

Diversity is such a huge umbrella, but if we try and educate ourselves, I think we can create the industry we all want to celebrate being part of.

“DIVERSITY IS SUCH A HUGE UMBRELLA, BUT IF WE TRY AND EDUCATE OURSELVES, I THINK WE CAN CREATE THE INDUSTRY WE ALL WANT TO SEE.”

THE ROAD TO SUCCESS

BY LAN NGUYEN-GREALIS

OUR ALL-SINGING ALL-DANCING MAKEUP ARTIST, BEAUTY EXPERT AND SALONEVO COLUMNIST, LAN NGUYEN-GREALIS, SPOKE TO WORLD-FAMOUS HAIRDRESSER AND SNAPPY DRESSER ERROL DOUGLAS TO FIND OUT WHY PERSEVERANCE, DIVERSITY, AND PASSION ARE THE KEYS TO SUSTAINING A LONG CAREER.

Image Source// Lan Nyugen-Grealis

Sometimes, both in business and life, careers choose us. There are many trials and tribulations that we experience, each specific to our own roles and stories. Thriving within the ever-changing and often unpredictable world that is hair and beauty means using setbacks as the ignition switch to push ourselves harder.

One key issue and an ever-present barrier is breaking down inequality and boosting inclusivity through education and representation across all creative mediums, from platform education and runway shows to competitions and even down to the language we use in treatment menus. After so many generations, it is incredible to think that anyone in this world has to fight for their place in it. Equality should be expected, not earned.

For this month’s column, I spoke to multi-award winning and world-renowned hairdresser Errol Douglas MBE about how he believes hard work and natural flair for styling has been the key to his success. Right now, he's an ambassador for leading brands, such as Dyson and Living Proof, and former President of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing. Success, Errol believes, comes from more than just your passion and ability, it comes through presentation and self-branding. “Presentation is everything," he told me. "Especially if I’m on stage or with a client – no matter how big of a personality or celebrity they are. Fashion seems superficial, but it isn’t. I’m wearing this ‘uniform’, if you will, because I want to be presentable and approachable.”

I also caught up with Mary Haddock-Staniland, the Global Senior Vice President of DEIB (Diversity, Equity, Inclusion, Belonging) for EverCommerce, the parent company for business management

software company, Timely. She's a leading voice and advocate for the LGBTQ community, championing change and inclusion. The qualities that can move society forward are driven by acceptance, respect, and a willingness, the want and desire for all of us to be change champions. She told me why inclusion can only enrich our industry and enhance the skillset of artists across hair and beauty. This Timely DEIB expert said: "Makeup and hair are intensely personal things, used to shape our identity. Beauty professionals allow us to discover who we truly are. In order to make sure we survive and thrive as beauty professionals, we must ensure that we're representative of the communities we wish to serve."

I wholeheartedly agree – and the ultimate key to success comes from your mind set. Try not to get caught up in the ego of it all! If a relationship breaks down, do not dwell! Lift your head, shift your outlook, and move onto the next exciting project or search for the next opportunity.

Errol told me what you can do to sustain the kind of entrepreneurship that paves the way to success in this predominantly self-starting industry: “Be true to the people you work with. I’m all-inclusive in every sense of word. I will push women in my company, empower LGBTQIA+ people, and encourage and welcome transgender and non-binary people into different projects – people of colour, those from difficult backgrounds… You have to have a global mind set. I’m not just a black man, I’m a human being with goals. I’m an ambassador of brands and people I believe in. That’s how you become successful. Staying true to yourself and encouraging others to do the same.”

“ONE KEY ISSUE AND AN EVERPRESENT BARRIER IS BREAKING DOWN INEQUALITY AND BOOSTING INCLUSIVITY THROUGH EDUCATION AND REPRESENTATION ACROSS ALL CREATIVE MEDIUMS, FROM PLATFORM EDUCATION AND RUNWAY SHOWS TO COMPETITIONS AND EVEN DOWN TO THE LANGUAGE WE USE IN TREATMENT MENUS.”

EXTENDING

POSSIBILITIES

THE TRANSFORMATIVE EFFECT THAT EXTENSIONS HAVE ON ANY HAIRSTYLE ARE BOUNDLESS. SALONEVO SPEAKS TO INDUSTRY LEADERS ABOUT THE ART OF EXTENSIONS, AND HOW BEST TO USE THEM AS HAIR ISSUE SOLUTIONS. WE FIND OUT WHAT TRENDS ARE EMERGING AND WHAT ARE THE GO-TO BRANDS FOR 2023.

LUXURY BESPOKE

DANIEL ARGENIO IS A HAIRSTYLIST AND HAIR EXTENSION SPECIALIST BASED AT 65 WALTON IN LONDON – ONE OF LONDON’S MOST PRESTIGIOUS, LUXURY SALONS, SPECIALISING IN ETHICAL HAIR EXTENSIONS. WE SPOKE TO DANIEL ABOUT THE DAY-INA-LIFE OF AN EXTENSION SPECIALIST, AND WHY RICHY HAIR UK IS HIS GO-TO.

Coming from a family of hairdressers, Daniel has always been fascinated by how hair can completely transform a person. He spent much of his childhood in his mum’s salon, and when he was old enough, Daniel was straight into the salon from school to work. He explained: “There I trained in all aspects of hairdressing, but literally fell in love with extension work. It wasn’t long before all my clients wore extensions!”

With a hereditary problem of thin hair which affected both him and several members of his family – Daniel was delighted that he could help those with similar hair problems. He said: “I can remember being a young man and always wearing a cap or a hat to disguise my thinning hair – there just weren’t any options available to me. It was worse for my female relatives that also shared the condition – it’s fabulous now that I am in a position to help them and have been instrumental in totally regaining their confidence.”

Daniel fell in love with hair extensions during his first-ever application. He said: “I was able to totally enhance my client’s hair and the sense of gratitude I felt from her was something that I will never forget.

“Extensions aren’t just for fashion – around 70% of the women I look after at 65 Walton Street look to me for remedial work and how I can re-energise their hair. I’m working with thin hair, clients with hormonal, hereditary problems or simply over-processed hair.”

Daniel has worked in the world of hair extensions for over two decades now and has been considered a Master Extensionist for some time. He said: “I’m delighted to see that the work of an extensionist is more specialised now. When I first started working with extensions and to be honest, up until recently, salon stylists were given the task to apply extensions and were admittedly ‘winging it’. Now there is more support, more education

available and the art of an extensionist is being recognised as a skill.

“Fortunately, as well, the whole ‘system’ of extensions has evolved. The hair quality has improved, and the adhesives are kinder.

“The service itself has also changed from a client’s perspective. Before many considered it embarrassing to admit they were wearing extensions – now they wear them with pride. In the salon, we used to usher our clients to a private room to undertake an extension service. Now at 65 Walton Street, we all sit together happily in the salon.”

The salon Daniel called ‘home’ is 65 Walton Steet, a luxury hair salon based in the heart of London’s Chelsea borough. The salon was created by the founders of Richy Hair UK, one of the global leaders in ethical hair extensions.

I asked Daniel to tell us a little bit about 65 Walton, and why he believes it is the best place for extensions in the city. He said: “65 Walton Street is a three-storey private townhouse – it’s not about hustle and bustle – from the moment you arrive for your allocated appointment you will enjoy a dedicated stylist.

“We have four main seats on our ground floor area, with two more seats behind a private screen. On the first floor, we also have two additional rooms that afford privacy.

“The client experience starts from a welcome at the front door – the door is always locked, and clients ring the bell to enter. They then receive a further welcome at reception and are taken to their seat where they receive a consultation and a hot towel. Food is provided by the neighbouring eatery, Jaks Restaurant. 

“I THINK MY SUCCESS LIES IN THE FACT THAT I UNDERSTAND THE PLACEMENT OF HAIR. SO MUCH SO THAT MY CLIENTS RARELY FEEL THAT THEY ARE WEARING EXTENSIONS. SADLY, I STILL DO A LOT OF CORRECTIVE WORK WHERE EXTENSIONS HAVE BEEN APPLIED INCORRECTLY EITHER IN TERMS OF TOO MANY OR IN THE WRONG PLACE.”

“It’s a luxurious pace where clients are encouraged to sit, relax, unwind and enjoy either in their salon chair or on our fabulous rooftop terrace. It’s their call; their vibe; their place. We look after numerous royals, plus many international clients fly to London to visit us.

“65 Walton Street is a full-service salon – we offer every haircare service under one roof. We call ourselves masters in the field of colour, condition and extensions because we have studied and perfected our subject. At 65 Walton, we only use the best brands – we also offer a same-day extension service as we have a dedicated Hair Lab on the lower ground floor. We are also able to offer a same-day Wash & Refit service. Hair is washed, dried and reapplied in two hours.”

The Hair Lab at 65 Walton is fully stocked with Richy Hair UK. Daniel said: “I love Richy Hair UK hair because it is medically graded, ethically sourced, European hair. It’s important for us to offer hair that has longevity – clients are encouraged to keep the hair for up to a year. It is not just easy for me to work with and to blow-dry but it’s the better quality of the hair it’s easier for the client to work with.

“Richy Hair comes in four lengths and 42 shades which I love to mix and create hundreds of customised colours for my many clients. It’s such good hair that, unlike other extension companies that are charged by the weight, Richy hair is so light it’s charged by the length and amount.

“I think my success lies in the fact that I understand the placement of hair. So much so that my clients rarely feel that they are wearing extensions. Sadly, I still do a lot of corrective work where extensions have been applied incorrectly either in terms of too many or in the wrong place.”

64 Walton, all extension clients have personally prescribed an aftercare plan which includes the following rules and regulations: “Do not wash your hair for a minimum of 72 hours. Use Sulphate free shampoo and conditioner. Weekly treatments/ masks are advisable, remember only condition midlengths to ends. After washing, dry your tapes at the attachment as they can be vulnerable when wet. Never brush wet extensions also leaving the hair wet will cause tangling. Always use the cooler setting on your hair dryer when drying the tapes and heated tools can be used , but we always recommend using a heat protector on your extensions.”

Finally, I asked Daniel about the keys to achieving premium/ luxury extension results and creating a happy, loyal clientele. He said: “The key is to choose the correct hair and placement. How can Brazilian-sourced extensions for example suit someone with European hair?

Always use the most premium hair possible. Understand your client's lifestyle; Do they do yoga? Are they gym buddies? Are they a new mum? Are they able to deal with the amount of hair we are applying? Do they have time to manage it? Will they be able to afford to refit? Are they suitable candidates? Will it improve their hair health?

“In a sentence do not give the client more hair than they can handle – your application has to be truly bespoke to the client. If the client cannot manage the hair, they will not be back.

“Applying the extensions with love and pure honesty is something I always lead with. It is not about the level of investment – it is about the client being comfortable with their hair for months – it’s not a quick fix.” •

“I LOVE RICHY HAIR UK HAIR BECAUSE IT IS MEDICALLY GRADED, ETHICALLY SOURCED, EUROPEAN HAIR. IT’S IMPORTANT FOR US TO OFFER HAIR THAT HAS LONGEVITY – CLIENTS ARE ENCOURAGED TO KEEP THE HAIR FOR UP TO A YEAR. IT IS NOT JUST EASY FOR ME TO WORK WITH AND TO BLOW-DRY BUT IT’S THE BETTER QUALITY.”

CRAZY CLIP-IN

Joe first found himself on the set of a fashion shoot when he was just 14, but back then, it was Joe who was sitting in the hair and makeup chair – as a model. By 16, Joe made his way behind the chair after making a connection with a stylist he met on set. He began training in salons, then with another session stylist, until he was signed by an agency, making his way back to the fashion and editorial world. Today, Joe is a highly in-demand celebrity stylist, with an incredible list of clients and brands under his portfolio.

Is it as glamorous as a job as it looks? Yes and no, says Joe. “The life opportunities that I have had through my work have been amazing. Getting to travel and meeting new people is so great. But also, after a while you realise, the celebrities and models, they’re just normal people. Also, especially when you are working on things like brand campaigns, days can be so long. Some days you’ll start at 5:00 am and not finish until 2:00 am, and then have to be back on set within a could hours. So, yes, it may look glamorous, but it also takes a lot of blood sweat and tears.”

Another misconception that Joe debunks is that all celebrities have thick, lush, long hair, that is always red carpet ready. “Celebrities are often changing their hairstyles so dramatically, constantly changing their look, and this can have a negative impact on their hair health. So, I would say 99% of the time I am getting a celebrity ready for a red carpet, clip-in extensions are a must. Even if it is to just finish a look, cover some gaps, add some volume, add a ponytail, or add some length, I will always have some extensions on hand.”

What brands does Joe go for? He said: “My go-to’s are Clip Hair Ltd, a London-based extension brand that I use regularly and is extremely reliable. I also use Milk + Blush, which is also a UK-based brand, and they are reliable and of great quality. I tend to go for smaller, more local brands, rather than big commercial brands for my hair extensions. I find them a lot more reliable, more sustainable, and I can form great relationships with them. They also are a lot more appreciative and excited to be involved in the celebrity makeovers, and generally more supportive and helpful overall.”

As a celebrity stylist, having a great relationship with your extension provider is an absolute must.

JOE O’KELLY IS A FULL-TIME INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST AND GROOMER WHO SPENDS HIS DAYS PREPARING THE BIGGEST CELEBS FOR THEIR RED CARPET PREMIERES, EDITORIAL SHOOTS, AND BRAND CAMPAIGNS. WHILE HIS WORK IS ALWAYS GIVING GLAM, THERE'S A LOT OF WORK THAT GOES ON BEHIND THE SCENESAND A LOT OF CLIP-IN HAIR EXTENSIONS TOO!

Joe explained: “When you are selected as the stylist for a celebrity, sometimes you only get a week or so notice. So, in that time, you need to work out the concept for the event’s look and gather all the products and tools you are going to need, including your extensions.

“Because I have such great relationships with my extension providers, I will tend to send them a photo of my client’s natural hair in good lighting, and then send that over for the brand to match and create a natural blend that will fit in seamlessly with my client’s hair. That way, when the client comes in for their session with me, all the hard work is done, and I can focus on applying the extensions, styling and finishing the look.”

I asked Joe to give us an example of a recent red-carpet look which he amplified with the use of clip-in extensions. He explained: “A few weeks ago, I had a celebrity client who was getting ready for the premiere of Barbie. My reference to work from was a picture of a vintage Barbie, with that classic, dramatic platinum ponytail. So, I used a clip-in 21inch ponytail from Clip Hair, and a few clip-in pieces to round it out, and we got this beautiful, sleek, dramatic, but natural-looking result.”

Joe joked: “The world almost ran out of pink paint during the filming of Barbie. It better not run out of blonde extensions during the release!”

“MY GO-TO’S ARE CLIP HAIR LTD, A LONDON-BASED EXTENSION BRAND THAT I USE REGULARLY AND IS EXTREMELY RELIABLE. I ALSO USE MILK + BLUSH, WHICH IS ALSO A UK-BASED BRAND, AND THEY ARE RELIABLE AND OF GREAT QUALITY. I TEND TO GO FOR SMALLER, MORE LOCAL BRANDS, RATHER THAN BIG COMMERCIAL BRANDS FOR MY HAIR EXTENSIONS.”

Even when creating the most dramatic of looks, Joe is always aiming to create a natural finish. He said:

“I think the more natural your work looks, the more expensive it appears. You never want other people to know your client is wearing extensions. To achieve this, I normally go for a seamless blend at the top, so I go quite thin with the extension pieces. I don’t like working with extension brands that have thick fittings at the tip. If I am wanting a more voluminous result, I will just layer the thinner pieces. Yes, it can be a bit finicky, but you get a more natural result.

“Another tip is, whenever I get a brand-new pack of extensions, I will always wash them three or four times with shampoo. The shine that they will come with will never match your client’s natural hair texture. So, wash wash, wash, and then if you want to bring the shine back in, you can do so with a finishing product.”

Joe’s go-to products for that natural/ glam finish? “I have a few products that I won’t go anywhere without. The Ouay Finishing Crème is a lightweight but moisturising crème that gives you that nourished shine and helps protect the hair from heat styling. Another favourite of mine is the Unite 7 Seconds Glossing Spray, which again brings back the shine in the hair, and ghd’s new Sleek Talker Styling Oil is also a game changer that I am loving."

Find Joe on Instagram as @joekelllz

Image Source // @joekelllz

EXTENSIONS EXCELLING WITH

SOPHIE HEATON IS A BEAUTYWORKS VIP EXTENSIONIST AND STYLIST AT STUDIO 1 HAIR EXTENSIONS IN WILMSLOW, WHICH SHE OWNS WITH HER BEST FRIEND. WE CHATTED TO SOPHIE ABOUT HOW SHE FOUND SUCCESS THROUGH EXTENSIONS AND HER BEST BUSINESS ADVICE FOR EXTENSIONISTS.

From starting her hair journey as an on-the-side job while putting herself through college and eventually starting a 9-5 in sales and events. She explained: “My interest in extensions just came from wearing them myself since being 16, I was so fascinated by the way they made me feel and the boost to my confidence I would feel once they were fitted and perfectly styled. One of my best friends who was at the time running a successful nail salon, inspired me to go and do a course in properly fitting and cutting hair, so I did.”

Sophie quickly showed promise in the skill and was described as a natural by her instructors.

She was quickly offered a job in the salon where she trained in. Just three months into being fully qualified, Sophie was approached by the owner of a Beauty Works salon in Wilmslow, where she worked every Saturday alongside her 9-5 until she built up enough of a client base to brave going full-time.

Sophie said: “That was of course, the exact moment Covid hit and I thought it was all over… but instead, I started making content and selling hair products online so luckily I managed to stay relevant and gage the interest of new people that soon became clients once we were able to work again. I went on to leave my events job and quickly became a full-time hair extension specialist.”

She continued: “My career further escalated when I was asked to work for a well-known celebrity hairdresser in the opening of a brandnew salon, as well as being asked to teach hair extension courses for Beauty Works at the headquarters. This was when I knew I was starting to be on the path to where I wanted to end up.

“Now, nearly three years down the line, I have my little salon alongside my best friend and business partner in Wilmslow, and work with an amazing colourist and MUA who have helped further develop my career.”

As a Beauty Works VIP, Sophie is a loyal customer of the brand. Why? She said: “The support I received from Beauty Works when building my business was amazing. I have got to know the team over the last four years and when I opened the salon, they made sure to help with initial stock supply and kept me in the loop with anything new on the market. I love the brand and have worn it myself for the last six years meaning I really KNOW the brand. I’ve never had any issues that haven’t been very quickly rectified. My account managers always help push sales and the

Photography // Sohpie Heaton

“ALWAYS USE SOCIAL MEDIA TO THE BEST OF YOUR ABILITY. I GREW MY PAGE AND IT'S NOW THE MAIN WAY I GET NEW BUSINESS AS WELL AS THE TRUSTY ‘WORD OF MOUTH’. TAKE LOADS OF BEFORE AND AFTER PICTURES AND KEEP YOUR CONTENT INTERESTING AND A CLEAN SOCIAL AESTHETIC.”

brand themselves always keep us included in any events or shoots that we can gain social media benefits from.”

Opening your own salon/business can be hectic, and it can feel like your client list is never-ending! We wanted to know how Sophie manages her time carefully but efficiently in the salon. She said: “Having a salon is super hectic, you don’t realise that you’re not only a stylist, but you’re also a social media manager, an accountant, a therapist to your clients, a cleaner and constantly shopping for stock/ products/basics.

“Speed comes with practice, and you shouldn’t ever rush the application of your client’s hair, just let yourself naturally get quicker and set mini targets for yourself to work under some healthy pressure.”

There are a lot of options out there for extensions, and forms of applications. But what are the most popular and most efficient options?

Sophie explained: “The methods I offer are weft, tape, nano and clip-ins. My most popular method is nano bonds, as I create my signature colour blends using them by mixing each colour strand throughout the hair.

“Tapes are also super popular for a very ‘quick fix’ and I tend to get lots of bookings for birthdays and weddings using clip-ins as they are easy to apply and give my clients the flexibility to apply and quickly remove their hair.

“When doing a wedding I would always try and maximise the sales of clip-ins, especially if there is a profit margin on the sale of the hair. I would always recommend doing a day rate and ensure this is at least what you would earn in a full and busy day of applying for extensions.”

One of the ways that Sophie has been able to excel so rapidly in her career is by promoting her work through social media. Her advice to extension experts: “Always use social media to the best of your ability. I grew my page and it's now the main way I get new business as well as the trusty ‘word of mouth’. Take loads of before and after pictures and keep your content interesting and a clean social aesthetic.”

Sophie’s best advice for opening a salon: “My advice on opening your salon is to be super confident in your figures, make sure you know you have a solid income from your regulars and have fully accounted for how much money you will need to invest in a renovation and the new bills you will enquire when having a salon. Location for me was one of the most important things as a lot of my clients are local and the ones that travel will come for a full day of treatments in the area. Lastly, don’t panic… there will be good and bad days but it’s by far worth it in the long run, I love everything about having the salon and the freedom that comes with it.”

“THE SUPPORT I RECEIVED FROM BEAUTY WORKS WHEN BUILDING MY BUSINESS WAS AMAZING. I HAVE GOT TO KNOW THE TEAM OVER THE LAST FOUR YEARS AND WHEN I OPENED THE SALON, THEY MADE SURE TO HELP WITH INITIAL STOCK SUPPLY AND KEPT ME IN THE LOOP WITH ANYTHING NEW ON THE MARKET.”

ELEVATE &

EXTEND

Photography // Michael Young Hair Photography

Michelle has been working with hair and extensions since she was just 16. In the 30 years since, she has won a plethora of awards for her high-quality work, opened her salon, and developed her line of luxury hair extensions called LoxBox

These days, Michelle’s time is balanced between running her salon, running and educating for LoxBox, while organising and managing PROJECT Extend . Michelle told us a bit about her busy schedule: “Right now with LoxBox, we have been working on putting packages together for colleges and academies, so that not only are we educating the students, but also the lecturers, and giving them the CPD cert. So, I have been focusing on that, along with educating in salons as well.”

Education is a major priority for Michelle, and she is passionate about spreading the importance of education within the extensions industry. “This is what sets LoxBox aside from the crowd, because we value education so highly, and I put so much time and emphasis on ensuring that we are providing our stylists with the best and latest education, and helping them as much as possible. At times, I almost feel like a bit of an Agony Aunt – but it is so worth it to me.”

When Michelle started in the industry, she noticed that there were few standards of practice or production. She said: “In the last 20-30 years, the industry and market of extensions have moved so much farther forward. Extensions are everywhere. But you’ve still got to look after quality. Not just the quality of the hair, but the practice– the application, the costs, and so on. I have seen some horrific sights in my days. So, that gives me the passion to grab it by the horns and pull it all back.

“I have been working with the Fellowship for a very long time now, and my goal has been to push extensions forward and give the skill the respect it deserves in the industry. This year, have been given the opportunity to put PROJECT Extend together is

the natural next step for elevating the industry.”

If you don’t already know, The Fellowship for British Hairdressing runs several projects, all to educate and elevate passionate members of the industry in a specific area of interest, such as Jacqui McIntosh’s PROJECT Afro, Simon Shaw’s PROJECT Men, and Lisa Farrall’s PROJECT X. So, for 2023, Michelle launched PROJECT Extend, “The ultimate finishing school for hair extensionists who are looking to develop their skills in several attachment methods and to expand their creativity on stage and in print. PROJECT Extend will allow you to become the best in the hair extension business.”

Michelle explained: “Adding PROJECT Extend is just absolutely suitable as one of the Fellowship PROJECTs. My goal with the PROJECT is to take hair extensionists that are out there, some in the early days of their career, and some that have been in

the industry for a long time, and help to provide them with more education, more opportunities, and give them a spotlight, so they can begin to become known and respected for their work.”

So far this year, the PROJECT Extend team, including Stephanie Dobson, Emma Holt, Lucy Melvin, Marlene Lamont, and Jamie Hadleigh, have been incredibly busy stepping up their game. So far, they have had a class on Trichology and Hair Replacements with Steven Goldsworthy, A LoxBox class with Michelle, an Inanch Gold Class on pre-bonded extensions, a class with Showpony Extensions, a Wig Making course with Darrel Starkey, a Hair Has No Gender class with Keri Blue, a Precision Cutting class with Robert Masciave and Ceri Cushen, and a team photoshoot with Hooker & Young. Coming up, they have a class with Zen Hair Extensions on micro and nanorings, and finally, the PROJECT Grand Finale in November, followed by the Fellowship Luncheon and Hair Awards in December.

Since the beginning of the year, Michelle has already witnessed so much growth in the members. She said: “I am so proud of every one of them. The collection they have put together is truly mind-blowing. And just getting to see their confidence improve after every class is so special. I have already seen some of the ways their careers are starting to change, their businesses picking up, and opportunities at events like London Fashion Week arising. They’re all rising in their preferred area of the industry.”

Applications are open for Project Extend 2024 from September 4 – November 13, 2023, with the new teams announced on December 5th. If you are an extensionist ready to take your career to the next level, get over to fellowshiphair.com to apply now!

If you are not yet certified and skilled in extensions but want to be, head to loxbox.co.uk to gain an education by the best of the best.

WIDELY CONSIDERED ONE OF THE MOST INFLUENTIAL HAIR EXTENSIONISTS IN THE UK, AND EVEN THE WORLD, MICHELLE GRIFFIN IS A MULTI-AWARD-WINNING SALON OWNER AND OWNER OF LOXBOX EXTENSIONS, A FELLOWSHIP CHAIR, AND THE LEADER OF THE FELLOWSHIPS’ NEW-TO-2023 PROJECT EXTEND.

“MY GOAL WITH THE PROJECT IS TO TAKE HAIR EXTENSIONISTS THAT ARE OUT THERE, SOME AT THE EARLY DAYS OF THEIR CAREER, AND SOME THAT HAVE BEEN IN THE INDUSTRY FOR A LONG TIME, AND HELP TO PROVIDE THEM WITH MORE EDUCATION, MORE OPPORTUNITIES, AND GIVE THEM A SPOTLIGHT, SO THEY CAN BEGIN TO BECOME KNOWN AND RESPECTED FOR THEIR WORK.”

GLAM EXTENSIONS

“THE DIFFERENCE YOU CAN MAKE TO SOMEONE’S CONFIDENCE IS INCREDIBLE, JUST BY CREATING LENGTH OR VOLUME SO QUICKLY.”

Joshua has always been fascinated with the instant change that hair extensions can bring to a client and the reason he ultimately specialised in the highly technical hair art form. “The difference you can make to someone’s confidence is incredible by creating more length or volume so quickly,” he said.

We wanted to know what essential tools and products every bridal stylist should have in their bridal extensions kit. The expert told us: “Firstly, I recommend a strong dressing out/grooming brush. I use the Kent Salon KS04 Dressing Out Brush. It glides across hair extensions comfortably.”

Joshua told us that he always has a selection of nano beads in multiple colours, alongside tape and remover just in case any adjustments need to be made. For example, he told us: “If the bride is having her hair up and a strand of hair isn’t working with the style, I can easily remove it.”

When using clip in hair extensions: “Carry a selection of lengths and shades at every wedding just in case the brides hair has lifted after being the sun since your last consultation. In regard to lengths, things always change on the morning of a wedding! If the bride decides she wants more length or thickness, always have the option available to her.”

What is Joshua’s most-loved extensions brand? To him, a brand’s range of colours and length options should be extensive, with plenty of options to mix and match so that every bride has extensions that feel as comfortable and natural as they look. This extensions aficionado told us that Milk & Blush is his go-to. “I use the hair when doing nano bonds and slimline tapes as well as their amazing clip in range. The team at Milk & Blush are so supportive and there to help with any questions, which is so helpful. The Milk & Blush Ultra Slimline Tape Hair Extensions are the slimmest and are the perfect solution for semi-permanent methods.”

What drew Joshua to Milk & Blush in the first place? He’s still in the early days of what we’re certain will be a very long and successful career, so it’s impressive that he’s found a brand and developed such loyalty. He revealed: “The packaging has a real premium feel, which is essential for bridal work. Brides want everything on their big day to be premium and glamorous – and Milk & Blush are just that! Most importantly, though, all their extensions are discreet. This is vital when achieving natural looks for the bride – especially when doing hair ups.”

Finally, Joshua shared some advice on how to keep extensions comfortable for a bride through her wedding day and honeymoon: “If a bride has never worn hair extensions, but wants a long-term solution such as slimline tapes or nano bonds, I recommend having them fitted early so she can get used to the feeling of having additional hair and the maintenance required.”

Joshua continued: “If I was to use nano bonds or slimline tapes, I would ensure the client was fully prepped with the correct aftercare to ensure a comfortable installation. The most important thing is to speak to the client when installing any type of extensions, checking there is no tension on the hair and that she is completely comfortable.

“SACHAJUAN products are the perfect blend of simplicity and performance when it comes to boosting the comfort and strength of extensions. I love the SACHAJUAN Strong Control Hairspray It provides hold without altering the finish. SACHAJUAN Volume Powder creates an effortless feeling. Finally, the SACHAJUAN Thermal Protection Spray keeps extensions and natural hair healthy during heat styling.

Color Wow Dream Coat Supernatural Spray creates expensive, glossy, frizz-free hair – I recommend to any bride that is going to a warmer climate on their moon. Color Wow Extra Mist-ical Shine Spray is my go-to for a flawless glossy finish that also helps tame any frizz. To make sure installation is as neat as possible, I use the Hair Made Easi Easigrip Hair Gripper Pads when applying slimline tape or nano bonds to ensure comfort.” Find Josh on Instagram as @joshuawilliamhair

JOSHUA WILLIAM IS A FRESH TALENT IN THE EXTENSIONS WORLD. HE’S A BRIDAL EXTENSIONS SPECIALIST AND STYLIST AND IS PASSIONATE ABOUT THE TRANSFORMATIVE NATURE OF THESE FABULOUS HAIR SYSTEMS. HE LEADS US THROUGH THE DOS AND DON’TS FOR BRIDAL EXTENSIONS.

“THE TEAM AT MILK & BLUSH ARE SO SUPPORTIVE AND THERE TO HELP WITH ANY QUESTIONS, WHICH IS SO HELPFUL. THE MILK & BLUSH ULTRA SLIMLINE TAPE HAIR EXTENSIONS ARE THE SLIMMEST AND ARE THE PERFECT SOLUTION FOR SEMIPERMANENT METHODS.”

Photography // Joshua William x Milk & Blush Headshot // Luke Grimley @luke.shot.this

EXTENSIONS

BECAME ACCESSIBLE TO THE MASSES, AND BY THAT POINT, I WAS SPECIALISED IN MAKING HAIR PIECES AND INSTALMENTS, SO MY SUCCESS WITH EXTENSIONS CLIENTS JUST BUILT FROM THERE.”

CELEBRITY

AWARD-WINNING EXTENSIONIST VICKY

EXCEL WITH EXTENSIONS.

"Many of my clients at Michael John worked in film and TV production. When I said I was interested in working in that industry, they offered me a place on set." Vicky quickly realised that a skillset in hair enhancements would be essential. "I was advised that I'll need to learn wigs and then extensions. I took a part-time course and that's where I discovered my excitement for hair installs and the power of adding hair instead of cutting it away."

In 1995, when Vicky was searching for extensions education, there weren't many courses that took a deep-dive into extensions types, installations, and care. Vicky said: "I ended up running around trying to find people to work

with. I somehow fell into helping Paul Hanlon.” He is a massive session stylist who now has over 70k followers on Instagram. “I’d be on set for his creative collections and celebrity client work for red carpets. By the time I got back into a regular salon environment, Victoria Beckham started wearing extensions and everyone realised they could get Hollywood hair overnight. Extensions became accessible to the masses and by that point, I was specialised in making hair pieces and instalments, so my success with clients looking for extensions just built from there." Now, she works between sets, shoots, and salon chairs!

We asked this extensions afficionado what the most important thing to remember is when installing and styling extensions to look natural – especially under the harshest paparazzi flashes. Vicky revealed: “Remember, the camera doesn't lie! You must be strategic in selecting hair textures and be intentional with colour matching and its placement. With a red carpet, you'll choose the installation method based on the amount of time you have and the amount of use the management teams and designers are looking for.”

How do you hold on to celeb clients? Vicky said, very simply, that if you want to keep high-profile clients, you must pick a method that is going to work for their hair, make them look beautiful, and make their hair look incredible. "The key to not messing up is communication in the form of an in-depth consultation. They have access to so many beauty professionals, so find the perfect ground between your ability and what the client is looking for. Just don't mess up. The worst thing you can do is ruin their hair or make them look bad on a carpet."

Celebrity client communication should cover: "What are they doing over the next five days? Are they travelling? Have they got a film junket? Is this a one-off event?" How can stylists create the perfect red carpet updo using extensions? "Ensure your colours match. Make sure you prep the hair before you place it on their head and then use your creativity to bring that vision to life... Easy, right?!"

Vicky told us that Hair Made Easi is one of her go-to brands for high-quality products. We asked why: "Chris King, Managing Director at Hair Made Easi, is a good friend of mine. The great quality

is a major factor, but these tools are made by hairdressers for hairdressers – truly. There is a constant stream of new extension tool innovations from this brand and they are there to make hairdressers' lives easier. I'll say to Chris, ‘This is a great tool – it needs to be on the street!’ He says, ‘OK’, and then gets the pro tools on the shelves, just like that. Hair Made Easi has that mind set –they really take feedback on board and do what they can to make our lives easier."

Which of their tools are Vicky’s favourites? "I love the Luxury Wide Tooth Comb, which glides through knots and tangles with ease. It's a wet and dry comb for all hair types. I really like the Small Gold Section Clips, too. You can use these for removals or to clamp the tapes down. They’re the perfect size and weight."

In 2020, Vicky founded her own brand, RoknDol This ethical, cruelty-free silk scrunchie line not only looks good, but holds hair in place in a way that is kind to natural hair and extensions alike. Vicky had a belief that the hair and beauty industry – especially extensions – had fallen behind in terms of sustainability and ethics behind sourcing, manufacturing, and packaging. Vicky told us more: "We had a hard time finding products that used high-quality, planet-friendly materials. It’s taken years to get this right and it’s so important to highlight how dedicated our team has been to creating a luxe hair accessory that doesn't impact creatures to produce it.” 

Photography // Dianne Buswell

DEMETRIOU IS AN ELITE ARTIST WITH GREAT LENGTHS , FOUNDER OF ROKNDOL , AND AMBASSADOR FOR HAIR MADE EASI . HER CAREER STARTED WITH MICHAEL JOHN IN MAYFAIR, LONDON AND NOW, SHE STYLES FOR CLIENTS ACROSS RED CARPETS, FILM SETS, AND ON THE SALON FLOOR. THIS IS HOW TO

Image source @diannebuswell

Image source Vicky Demetriou

Rok N Doll have expanded their line into silk pillowcases; ones that look after the skin and the hair as you sleep. It's a great recommendation for your extensions clients – anything they can do to take care of their installs at home, is a huge YES from Vicky. “We have worked tirelessly with many

like-minded people – scientists, designers, technologists, farmers – all with the same goal: to create beautiful products that will help to change hair and the world one step at a time.”

Find Rok N Dol on Instagram @rokndol_ // Vicky is @vickydemetriouhair

LOXBOX LUXURY COLOUR RING EXTENSIONS

Loxbox offer a wide selection of colour shades. Use the ‘Loxbox Luxury Colour Ring’ as your key tool for finding your clients perfect colour match. 29 colours available.

£50.00 // loxbox.co.uk

MILK + BLUSH 16”

HUMAN HAIR PONYTAIL

16” ponytail made with 100% Human Hair. Effortless wrap around application. Easily restyle using heat tools with a max temperature of 185°C.

£125.00 // milkandblush.com

Image source @diannebuswell

3 STEPS TO FLAWLESS EXTENSIONS

"These three things are the absolute basics if you want to create truly flawless, seamless extensions. Everything after that, with styling etc, will be easy because you've built that strong foundation."

1. Study the natural hair

“You must study how the natural hair moves, because that's what you're trying to simulate with the extensions. Assess the texture of the hair – feel it and move it around – so that you can align the natural with the synthetic.”

2. Align the colours

“Do not just go, 'Oh she's predominantly blonde, I'll just slap on some blondes', because the second that client takes a picture – and they will, whether that's for a client's Instagram or a celebrity’s red carpet – the camera will see the lines, it sees the colour blends.”

3. Start with the end in mind

“I can't stress this enough! You have to start with the end in mind, because extensions are only going to do what you, as the stylist, tell them to do. They're not going to miraculously sit perfectly – they haven't got a mind of their own! •

CLIP HAIR REMY ROYALE DOUBLE DRAWN WEAVE EXTENSIONS

Human hair weft/ weave made with premium quality, A-grade, 100% remy human hair. Double drawn, meaning its tips are as thick as its top, with a soft, smooth and silky feel. This weft/weave is versatile and can be glued, weaved, sewn, and clipped in!

£140.00 // cliphair.co.uk

GREAT LENGTHS GL VOLUME RANGE

Natural solution to hair loss. In less than one hour, the client will have a new look that can be further personalised with heat styling.

Pricing enquiries at greatlengths.com/en-gb/

VIOLA THERMAL PROTECTION SERUM

Restores, protects, and revives extensions and natural hair. Designed to de-frizz, and aid split ends and split ends while protecting from heat of dryers, straighteners, curlers - everything!

£11.67 // violahairextensions.co.uk

BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

YOU CAN BE THE BEST HAIRDRESSER, STYLIST, NAIL TECH OR BEAUTY EXPERT IN THE INDUSTRY, BUT DOES THAT MEAN YOUR BUSINESS IS AUTOMATICALLY SET UP FOR SUCCESS? LET'S TALK RETAIL, FINANCE, COMMUNICATION AND MANAGEMENT – SO YOU CAN GIVE YOUR BEAUTY BUSINESS THE BEST CHANCE OF FINDING SUSTAINABLE SUCCESS.

BOSS YOUR SALON

WE EXPLORE THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY WITH MADDI COOK , HAIRSTYLIST AND FOUNDER OF BOSS YOUR SALON. THIS IS HOW TO MAXIMISE CLIENT RETENTION, IN-SHOP RETAIL, OPTIMISE SERVICE MENUS, AND MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR SKILLS FINANCIALLY.

With over 27k followers on Instagram, Maddi has helped add £33m+ more profit for the hair and beauty industry. So many questions follow a statement like that, but to begin with, we asked Maddi what the ethos behind Boss Your Salon is. The platform is about helping hair professionals make money, but at its heart, Boss Your Salon is about people. Here’s more: “I want to address the disparity of wealth in our industry and ensure everyone is fairly compensated for their hard work. I coach in a way that empowers people to make good decisions for life – it’s about changing how you think, rather than just telling you what to do.”

What key finance areas should salon owners be monitoring and maximising? Maddi answered: “It depends on their goals, and sometimes measuring too many things can feel overwhelming, so I’d start with revenue, profit margins and re-booking rates. If you can focus on and increase each of these, you’re off to a great start and can then add more key metrics to measure.”

A financial health check is a great way to gauge

want it to be in the future. We asked Maddi why it is important to have regular check-ups – and how. “Step back and look at the numbers in your business. Some of this will be reviewing your outgoings to see where savings can be made, cancelling subscriptions you don’t use anymore, and shopping around. But honestly, there’s only so much you can cut, so focus on where you can maximise profits and the sky really is the limit.”

Maddi continued: “I coach my pricing clients to review their prices every three to six months. So much is changing right now in terms of running costs, stock prices, and the cost of living. It’s never been more important to keep an eye on your prices.”

What are some telling signs that your pricing isn’t correct in the salon? “If your bank balance and lifestyle doesn’t match how hard you’re working, your prices aren’t right. If you’re living week to week, if you can’t afford to take a week off without worrying about money, or if you dread the idea of getting sick because you couldn’t even manage losing the income from one day, you need

BOOST YOUR BOTTOM LINE

3 ways to maximise revenue

1. Reduce costs

Negotiate your bills, shop around, utilise deals with your suppliers, stop spending on impulse purchases you won’t use.

2. Increase your average bill

Whether that’s by selling retail, or upgrading the service or creating high-end packages, increasing the spend of your current clients is heaps easier than marketing to, and converting, total strangers.

3. Increase your prices!

If you haven’t looked at your pricing in six months, or you got to your prices by copying others or coming up with a random ‘hourly rate’, then you’re well overdue a price increase.

to look at your prices as a matter or urgency.”

How should salon owners go about calculating the correct prices for their services? “Shameless plug time… I’ve made a pricing calculator (Boss Your Profits) to do the hard work. Most hair and beauty professionals proclaim themselves to be ’no good with numbers’, so I wanted to make something that took care of the heavy lifting of the maths, because your time is best spent doing what you do best (and what makes that money, honey!)”

A lot of our readers might feel awkward about boosting prices, especially with their longer-term clients… how can they overcome this and start charging what they’re worth? “We need to separate emotion and logic, and start making good business decisions, rooted in data. This is why seeing your numbers in black and white can be so helpful, because you know what your prices have to be in order to reach your goals, and it becomes hard to charge anything less.”

Photography // Agness Trawczynska

“I COACH MY PRICING CLIENTS TO REVIEW THEIR PRICES EVERY THREE TO SIX MONTHS. SO MUCH IS CHANGING RIGHT NOW IN TERMS OF RUNNING COSTS, STOCK PRICES, AND THE COST OF LIVING. IT’S NEVER BEEN MORE IMPORTANT TO KEEP AN EYE ON YOUR PRICES.”

THE ERGO EXPERIENCE

HAIRDRESSING IS A BRILLIANT AND REWARDING CAREER, BUT IT IS NOT WITHOUT THE PHYSICAL CHALLENGES IT CAN HAVE ON THE BODY.

FOUNDED IN 1994 BY ROBERT REED, ERGO STYLING TOOLS WAS CREATED TO HELP HAIRSTYLISTS CREATE EXCELLENT RESULTS WHILE CREATING LESS WEAR AND TEAR ON THE BODY. AFTER NEARLY THREE DECADES OF SUCCESS IN NORTH AMERICA, THE WAIT IS OVER UK, ERGO IS HERE!

With four decades of industry insight, Robert remains dedicated to servicing and bettering the lives of stylists. From serving as President and co-owner of a high-end scissor brand to working as VP for Vidal Sassoon’s professional division and developing tools for brands like Paul Mitchell, Redken, Matrix, Sebastian and Aveda, Robert is well-versed in the needs of the industry.

Robert explained: “I began research for ERGO in 1994, to further understand the impact of the tools that hairdressers use and the environment in which they use them. The word ‘ergonomics’ is thrown around a lot, but there is relatively little understanding about what it actually means. Ergonomics is the direct relationship between the tools, the body, and the functions that they perform.”

This led to the research and development of ERGO styling tools. Robert shared what makes ERGO brushes different.

Client Comfort:

Once you hold it in your hand, an ERGO brush speaks for itself. Robert explained: “We noticed common manufacturing flaws you see in most brushes. For example, you will often have catch points in the brush below or above the bristles, which cause clients’ hair to get caught and pulled out. ERGO brushes have a recessed end cap and seamless assembly so there’s less likelihood of hair “catching” anywhere unexpectedly.”

Efficiency:

Another goal they had at ERGO was to make their brushes more efficient. Robert explained: “We began to wonder how we could help hairdressers finish a blow-dry in less time, and we thought, what if we had a longer barrel, so you could hold more hair on the

brush per stroke? So, ERGO brushes are about 20% longer which means you can pick up 20% more hair in the section, meaning the stylist can finish 20% faster.”

Stylist Comfort:

“In lengthening the barrel, the ERGO team wanted to still ensure the brush was perfectly balanced and easy to grip. Let’s face it, the repetitive movement of a blow dry can cause lots of strain to the wrist, which may lead to carpel tunnel syndrome. A longer handle means that the end of the brush isn’t digging into the stylist’s palm, which can cause nerve damage and tingling. We also consulted micro-hand surgeons, who explained that when holding onto harder surfaces, our hands will subconsciously grip harder. And that gripping can lead to tendinitis. In response, we created a silicone handle concept to our brushes. This slight texture allows for total control while requiring less grip, even when the hands are wet or slippery.”

Bristle Technology:

“There has been a long-running debate of the best bristles to use in a brush. Natural bristles can help to carry natural oils and sebum down from the cuticle. However, and especially when heat elevates the cuticle, the interlocking and friction caused by animal fibre cuticle versus human hair can create friction and abrasion, leading to fizziness and fractured strands. At ERGO, we use nylon bristles, which work to create tension through their density, but without friction. Being a man-made substance, it also means that we can change its properties, so we have added Tourmaline which gives off negative ions when heated, which then causes the cuticle to constrict, delivering shinier hair. We have also added carbon, which allows our brushes to be heat resistant up to 260 degrees Celsius. Of course, hair should never be exposed to heat like that”

ERGO Styling Tools will be launching in the UK & Ireland in early September. You can order yours at www.ergostylingtools.co.uk

“

ERGO BRUSHES ARE ABOUT 20% LONGER WHICH MEANS YOU CAN PICK UP 20% MORE HAIR IN THE SECTION, MEANING THE STYLIST CAN FINISH 20% FASTER.”

NOT JUST ANOTHER BUSINESS COURSE

SOPHIA HILTON IS A FORCE TO BE RECKONED WITH. THE FOUNDER OF NOT ANOTHER SALON AND ACADEMY, GLOBAL AMBASSADOR FOR CRAZY COLOR PRO, AND INNOLUXE

AMBASSADOR ARE PASSIONATE ABOUT HELPING SALON PROFESSIONALS FIND THEIR PATHS AND SHARING ALL THE WISDOM SHE HAS ACCRUED AS A BUSINESS OWNER OVER THE YEARS. “YOU DON’T HAVE TO MAKE THE SAME MISTAKES I’VE MADE!”

“The whole process of opening and owning a business was far more painful than I had ever imagined. I had no idea how it would affect me emotionally. I think I understood the financial elements, but it was the emotional side that I felt no one prepared me for,” explained Sophia, when I asked her what inspired her to create her sell-out course, ‘Not Another Business Course.’

In January 2023, Sophia launched, Not Another Business Course, a course that she wished she had when she first opened her business. The course is full of lessons Sophia has learned throughout her career,

Sophia’s ability to be vulnerable and open about the struggles she has faced, and how she learned how to overcome them, offers a new and different perspective to the business of salon ownership.

Sophia continued: “I think a lot of hairdressers are quite creative, emotionally led people, that’s why they got into hairdressing in the first place. These are key qualities of a successful hairdresser. However, I feel like when you take that sort of character, and put them in a leadership position, with no education or help, it can be a disaster waiting to happen.

“THE WHOLE PROCESS OF OPENING AND OWNING A BUSINESS WAS FAR MORE PAINFUL THAN I HAD EVER IMAGINED. I HAD NO IDEA HOW IT WOULD AFFECT ME EMOTIONALLY. I THINK I UNDERSTOOD THE FINANCIAL ELEMENTS, BUT IT WAS THE EMOTIONAL SIDE THAT I FELT NO ONE PREPARED ME FOR,”

Photography // Not Another Academy

“So, my course aims to hold some of these conversations that are not often talked about. I had plenty of people at the time, wanting to help me with my profits, but nobody told me what it would feel like the first time a stylist left me, that it would pull up feelings that I wasn’t good enough, that I was an imposter. No one warned me about that. But now, working with so many business owners, I know that I am not alone in those feelings. I aim to help prepare business owners for these occurrences and to teach business owners that they are not alone.

The Hard Pills to Swallow:

Beating Blame Culture

“I think the bit that people find the hardest (and the bit that I found the hardest) is about responsibility and maturity. In low levels of maturity, we want to blame everyone else for our problems. As a teenager, you would blame your parents. In relationships, you blame your partner. In business, you blame your team. But coming to that next level of development is about realising it doesn’t matter what is going on in your life, you have a responsibility to make it better. Toxic environments are never going to change until the leader reflects on their role and responsibility. It takes a lot of soul searching and looking at parts of your personality that you don’t want to look at. But this is when the life-changing breakthroughs happen.”

“You will always find evidence for the story you have already told yourself.”

“It is a very hard paradigm to switch. But if you believe that your staff are lazy, I can guarantee you’ll find the lazy things they do. If you think they’re stupid, you’ll find stupid things they do. But if you focus on the positives, and what they’re achieving and building their confidence, more good things will grow from that.

Relating to the Next Generation

“A lot of business owners feel frustrated with the younger generation and their work ethic and values. I certainly remember opening my company thinking that I was modern, and within five years going ‘Holy shit, I’m so outdated.’ But dismissing the younger generations is not going to do you any favours. You are going to have to reflect on and rethink your preconceived notions from your upbringing in the industry. Try to look at things from your stylists’ perspective and help them think about how they can get the best out of themselves. Sometimes that means being flexible.”

Is it worth it?

“In the past year, I have hired many ex-salon owners. Now don’t get me wrong, I see myself as a motivational person and am not encouraging owners to drop their businesses. But I do encourage them to reflect on what is worthwhile to them. A lot of times a salon owner will earn the same amount of income as the owner of a salon, as they would behind the chair. But if they are doing that, and they are feeling fulfilled, energised, and loving growing their team, then of course it's worth it. But if it’s filling them with more dread, stress, headaches, and heartbreaks, what’s the point? So, in my course, I permit people to close if they believe it is a decision that will make them happy in their life. Starting fresh shouldn’t be as embarrassing and stigmatised as it seems to be.”

You can access Sophia’s “Not Another Business Course” at online.notanotheracademy.com or as an in-person masterclass at Salon International on October 16th.

“IT TAKES A LOT OF SOUL SEARCHING AND LOOKING AT PARTS OF YOUR PERSONALITY THAT YOU DON’T WANT TO LOOK AT. BUT THIS IS WHEN THE LIFE-CHANGING BREAKTHROUGHS HAPPEN.”

BRANCHING BEYOND

BUTCHERS SALON IS

AN

ECO-CONSCIOUS

AND ETHICAL LIFESTYLE SALON GROUP. WE SPOKE TO COOWNER SUSANNAH RICHARDSON ABOUT THE KEYS TO EXPANDING WHILE STAYING TRUE TO YOUR ETHOS.

Susannah and Katie opened their first Butchers in Shoreditch in 2014, as they felt there was a need for more sustainable and earth-friendly options in the hairdressing world. Susannah said: “Historically, the hair industry has been very toxic. We use a lot of chemicals, single-use plastics, and there is a lot of waste. So, we wanted to create a space for clients and for stylists who wanted to do their part, while also creating a welcoming and relaxing environment.”

As an Aveda salon, all of the products and colours used are cruelty-free, vegan, naturally derived and wrapped in recycled packaging. They also use biodegradable Scrummi Towels as an alternative to washing towels and utilise Green Salon Collective to recycle everything from foil, hair and packaging!

Since then, Susannah and Katie have opened Butchers in Camden north London, along with their first franchised outlet in Leicester. Now they are in the process of opening their newest location in Chester.

While each Butchers is unique, they all have a similar vibe and aesthetic. Susannah said: “In each salon, we always do our best to use sustainable and raw materials, reuse and source second-hand pieces, and reclaimed wood. My husband is a joiner, so he helps us to repurpose reclaimed pieces for our spaces. We wanted the atmosphere to be relaxed and natural. Because we offer Aveda stress-relieving massages and chakra rituals, we want the space to feel calming. It’s all about the salon feeling comfortable, inclusive and relaxed.”

While Susannah and Katie do their best to reuse

and repurpose most pieces, when it came to buying styling chairs and backwashes for the space, they found the most sustainable option for them was to invest in quality, and this led them to choose Takara Belmont.

Susannah said: “I learned this lesson the hard way. When we opened our first salon, we were working with a tighter budget, and I had purchased chairs that ended up not lasting. I learned that day, buy once, buy right, buy cheap, buy twice. So, investing in the best quality pieces, that will last you a long time, is often the most sustainable route.”

Since expanding, Susannah and Katie now have Takara Belmont A1201 styling chairs from their Vintage Alt range in all their salons. Susannah said: “I really liked the mid-century modern look of the A1201 styling chairs. It was important for us to not only have high-quality chairs but ones that were stylish and fitted our aesthetic as well. After all, with ten chairs in one room, plus the shampoo stations, they play a big part in your salon’s interior.

“To select the chairs, we went to the Takara Belmont showroom. That was great because we could see variations of the chairs in person, and we

could pick out elements like the wooden armrests that make them feel bespoke. Everyone always laughs at me for always wearing brown, beige and green. So, when we were choosing the colour for our chairs, I naturally chose brown!”

Design and furniture is one element that can help bring consistency to your expanding business. But we asked Susannah for her advice on expanding your business while keeping core values at heart.

She said: “As we have continued to grow, I am spending less time in the salons, and more time working from home, managing things remotely, which means that I can’t always be there to oversee things and ensure everyone is sticking to our ethos. However, having a great team around you who shares your values, brand identity and culture really helps.

“I have also found that setting up simple and straightforward processes and systems has been really helpful. So, having a strong handbook, interviewing processes and checklists can help answer questions when you’re not around!”

“I REALLY LIKED THE MIDCENTURY MODERN LOOK OF TAKARA BELMONT'S A1201 CHAIRS. IT WAS IMPORTANT FOR US TO NOT ONLY HAVE HIGH-QUALITY CHAIRS BUT ONES THAT WERE STYLISH AND FITTED OUR AESTHETIC AS WELL.”

TIPS ON HOW PLANNING MAXIMISES PROFITS

BY TAKARA BELMONT

Salon planning might not immediately spring to mind when you think about how to maximise profit, but it is crucial to success. Every salon has a finite amount of space and how you utilise it, integrate services, and create flow can mean the difference between profit and loss. Here’s five top tips to maximise incomes and profit from considered space planning:

1. Prioritise Your Customer Experience

Consider the client experience and journey you want to create. This means understanding your locale and the demographic you’re serving. E.g. if you’re situated in a busy city centre with high

numbers of clients, or in a rural destination with a more relaxed client flow through; allow for this at the planning stage.

Create a client journey that’s relevant to how you want to position your business and how you exceed the expectations of your audience. Once identified, you can create a floor plan and layout based on how this journey plays out from the moment your client enters to when they leave. At this stage, you can locate the equipment and zones – from the reception/waiting area to the styling stations, backwash, and rest areas.

2. Design For Success

Creating an interior style that reflects your brand positioning and pricing is crucial. People are visually motivated and relate immediately to how your salon looks and feels. It speaks to them and defines their expectations, so if they’re looking for calm, relaxation, and luxury, they will opt for a salon that projects these values. If they want a fun, trendy or edgy vibe, they will lean toward high energy experiences. Equipment is a vital constituent to design. Not just in terms of its aesthetic, but also to support the services you deliver, and how it’s positioned in your layout to maximise profit per square foot.

3. Budget Your Way To Profit

How you finance your design, equipment, and layout is a major consideration. Speaking to a design expert will help you keep control of costs, manage your investments, and identify tax efficiencies to protect your capital and cash flow. If you lose control of costs and overlook calculating return on investment, it can be very costly, and could even lead to business failure.

One major breakthrough in this respect is Takara Belmont’s 0%, zero deposit Finance Lease Scheme. Not only can we help you arrive at the right plan, we ensure your investment in equipment is tax efficient, affordable, and flexible. This scheme also releases cash flow to invest in other priorities such as staff, training, and rent.

4. Support Your Team

The stylist's experience is just as vital as the clients'. Dividing your square footage by 150 will give you an indication of how many styling stations you can accommodate. So, a 1,500 sq ft salon would have around 10 stations with approximately 10% dedicated to the backwash area. Ideally you will have one backwash for every two styling stations with the remaining space allowing for reception, waiting area and retail. This also improves client comfort, privacy, and personal space.

5. Storage And Other Priorities

When creating a floorplan, it’s easy to focus on the service area, but restrooms, back office, storage, stock holding, and staff areas need to be factored in too.

Remember, the layout of your space affects everyone who enters it, so take all experiences into account. Everyone wants to look forward to going there, feel excited to be there and feel positive.

Photography // Koop Studio

MANY ASPECTS OF A SALON CONTRIBUTE TO COMMERCIAL SUCCESS. THE TEAM'S EXPERTISE, SERVICES, PRICING, AND LOCATION ALL IMPACT PROFITS. JUST AS IMPORTANT ARE THE INTERIOR SETTING AND CLIENT LOYALTY. WHAT ABOUT SALON PLANNING?

THE KEY TO A THRIVING SALON

ESCALATING PRODUCT COSTS, ALONGSIDE ENERGY AND RENT HIKES, ARE BEING BLAMED FOR THE WORST CRISIS HAIRDRESSING HAS FACED IN YEARS, FORCING MANY TO MAKE DIFFICULT DECISIONS ABOUT THE FUTURE. BUT NEW TECHNOLOGY IS HELPING SALONS BY ENDING THE OVER-DISPENSING OF COLOUR WITHIN THE INDUSTRY.

APPROXIMATELY £15,000 ON COLOUR THAT GOES IN THE BIN. BUT WE HAVE SALONS THAT HAVE SEEN THEIR COLOUR COSTS PLUMMET BY AS MUCH AS 40% ONCE THE TEAM STARTED MEASURING AND MANAGING THEIR FORMULAS ON A VISH SCALE,”

“THE AVERAGE SALON SPENDS

“Hairdressing wastes 6.8 million tonnes of colour every year, colour that salons have paid for,” says Tom Bentley-Taylor Managing Director, EMEA, of Vish Colour Management . “At a time when the industry is at its most vulnerable, with owners facing more pressure than in any other industry, it is crucial to cut colour overmixing, do more with what we use, and manage profit margins through transparent pricing. It is more sustainable than simply raising prices over and over again to survive.”

According to Local Data Company, independently owned hair and beauty salons are struggling more than any other retailers, with 624 salons closing in 2022 compared to the next worst affected sector, newsagents, which saw 225 closures. Meanwhile, a survey by Uswitch suggested that more than a quarter of salon owners are considering closing or downsizing. The National Hair & Beauty Federation confirmed the findings, reporting that one salon in four was making a loss.

Speaking to the Guardian newspaper, Louise Howard-Long, owner of Architect Hair in Leeds, said her profit margins had already been squeezed by a price increase of hair dyes – by as much as a quarter – and other necessities from refreshments

“Some of the losses reported by the NHBF are down to unnecessarily high product costs that salons could control. The average salon spends approximately £15,000 a year on colour that goes in the bin. But we have salons that have seen their colour costs plummet by as much as 40% once the team started measuring and managing their formulas on a Vish scale,” explained Tom.

“Our technology remembers how much colour was left after the service and will refine the formula so the right quantities are mixed at every future appointment. Salons also see an immediate 15% uplift in revenue as Vish captures previously missed services such as toners, taking the onus away from the stylist to remember and report every product used during the appointment.”

Colour management technology has become essential in many major salons with the potential to cut costs and clarify charges. And not just because of the financial benefits but also the vital data it delivers.

The Chapel Group in southeast England was an early adopter of Vish. Co-owner Toby Dicker says: “My focus is on usage. If we can keep colour costs down to around 6-8% of sales, then that’s excellent. I’m happy with that. So I have a system where I can see my Vish data in real-time, and

if someone’s usage is creeping up, I jump in and coach them.”

The same is true for Joshua Miller, co-owner of Charlie Miller in Edinburgh: "At a time when the industry and country face inflation with rising costs in every area of the business, more than ever, we need to look at where there is waste. For the first time, Vish has given us accurate data on each stylist's use for each service. When we review the data, it shows us who is efficient but also who is mixing up too much. We know exactly where to look and who to talk with and educate. Without Vish, we would never be able to do this."

Colour should be a highly profitable department of every salon. And it can be as technology gives owners greater oversight of this previously muddy area, showing how much colour is being mixed to the gram by each stylist, the cost of that colour, how much is left over, and how much it costs. Cutting waste could be the key to weathering the crisis. Curious what data is driving colour profit decisions for salon owners? Check out getvish.co.uk

“OUR TECHNOLOGY REMEMBERS HOW MUCH COLOUR WAS LEFT AFTER THE SERVICE AND WILL REFINE THE FORMULA SO THE RIGHT QUANTITIES ARE MIXED AT EVERY FUTURE APPOINTMENT. SALONS ALSO SEE AN IMMEDIATE 15% UPLIFT IN REVENUE AS VISH CAPTURES PREVIOUSLY MISSED SERVICES SUCH AS TONERS, TAKING THE ONUS AWAY FROM THE STYLIST TO REMEMBER AND REPORT EVERY PRODUCT USED DURING THE APPOINTMENT.”

MOMENTUM KEEPING

BY NINA TULIO

OUR NORTH AMERICAN COLUMNIST, NINA TULIO SHARES HER ESSENTIAL ADVICE ON HOW TO STAY BUSY AND PRODUCTIVE DURING QUIET PERIODS IN THE SALON. EVERYTHING FROM BRAINSTORMING NEW CLIENT PROCESSES TO STRENGTHENING YOUR MARKETING STRATEGY

During the months of September and October, you may notice the salon start to slow down a bit. In most cases, it’s just the calm before the storm. But I want to ensure you do not go into panic mode – go into proactive mode instead! Honestly, when I was a new salon owner, I would go into panic mode when we were slow. It would make me so nervous. But then around year five or six when we would slow down a bit, I would say: “Thank you for giving me a moment to focus on the things I can't focus on when I’m busy.”

Here are four tips to get you through a minor slow down.

1 Reassess and improve your marketing strategy. Analyse your target audience, social media presence, website, and promotions. Maybe you have been wanting to implement a new referral programme but haven’t had time. Referral programmes are one of the most cost-effective ways to bring in clients; ones that fit your target client.

It's also said that referrals become more loyal clients as well. Who is better to promote you than a client who already knows, loves, and trusts you? Maybe you have been looking into running ads on Facebook or Instagram. A great area to dive into is your email campaigns. Are you sending out two email campaigns a month? One should be promotion/event based. And one should be education/tutorial based.

3 Engage with your community. Actively engage with your local community to build relationships and increase awareness of your salon. Maybe you start to participate in local events, sponsor charitable causes, or partner with local businesses that share your target market for crosspromotion.

Put yourself out there. Spend time getting to know other business owners and talk about ways you can help each other get in front of each other's audience. This is such a powerful yet cost effective way to increase revenue and build relationships.

If you live in an area with a chamber of commerce, start to put your feelers out. Start going to networking events and getting your brand and your face out there. It is a great way to meet other like-minded people and potential clients.

4 Reach out to long lost clients. Sending a ‘We miss you!’ email or text is a great way to reengage with long lost clients. Clients like to wander off at times and in a lot of cases want to come back to see you, but get nervous to reach out. Send a quick note letting them know how much you miss them and how you would love to have them back in your salon or your chair. This opens the door for them to reach out and hopefully schedule an appointment with you.

2

Elevate the client experience. Slow periods provide an excellent opportunity to focus on improving the overall client experience in your salon. Maybe you carve out more time to train your team on new techniques or offer additional coaching sessions. This is also a good time to look at your blind spots. What does your retention rate look like? If you are having an issue retaining new clients, I suggest looking into these three areas: 1) Quality of work. 2) Price vs. value. 3) Total client experience. What does your shampoo experience look like? Do you follow up with clients within 24-48 hours of their first visit? What does your booking process look like? Is it easy and convenient? 4) Stay in touch with your clients in between services via email campaigns.

YOU MISS THEM AND HOW YOU WOULD LOVE TO HAVE THEM BACK IN YOUR SALON OR YOUR CHAIR.”

“CLIENTS LIKE TO WANDER OFF AT TIMES AND IN A LOT OF CASES, WILL WANT TO COME BACK TO SEE YOU, BUT GET NERVOUS TO REACH OUT. SEND A QUICK NOTE LETTING THEM KNOW HOW MUCH

QUESTIONS TO ASK WHEN CHOOSING A FINANCE PROFESSIONAL

BY ANNA MANUKYAN

AS A SALON OWNER OR HAIRSTYLIST, YOU ARE AN EXPERT IN YOUR FIELD. BUT WHEN IT COMES TO FINANCES, SOMETIMES YOU NEED A LITTLE PROFESSIONAL HELP. FOR EXAMPLE, IN MANAGING AND PROTECTING YOUR FINANCES. BUT HOW DO YOU SELECT THE RIGHT FINANCE PROFESSIONAL FOR YOU AND YOUR BUSINESS?

Working with a finance professional can have many benefits! First and foremost, they can provide valuable guidance and advice on financial matters, such as budgeting, investing, and tax planning. They can analyse your financial situation and suggest strategies to help you achieve your financial goals and maximise your wealth. A good financial professional can help you navigate any complex financial issues that you may struggle with navigating alone.

Additionally, a finance professional can help you stay on top of changes in the financial industry and ensure that you are making informed decisions with your money. Overall, working with a finance professional can provide peace of mind and lead to a greater sense of control over your financial future, and make sure that the money you work so hard for is working for you.

There are many types of finance professionals that offer different services depending on accreditations and their areas of expertise. Here are some examples:

1 Financial Planner: A financial planner can help you create a financial plan, which includes a detailed budget, savings, and investment strategies, and insurance recommendations. They can also help you plan for long-term goals like retirement or education.

2 Investment Advisor: An investment advisor can manage your investment portfolio, suggest investment options that align with your goals, and provide guidance on market trends.

3 Tax Advisor: A tax advisor can help you navigate complex tax laws, prepare your tax returns, and optimise your tax strategies to minimise your tax liability.

4 Accountant: An accountant can help with bookkeeping, financial statements, and taxes, in addition to providing financial analysis and advice on business operations.

5 Wealth Manager: A wealth manager can offer a comprehensive approach to managing

1 ARE YOU LICENSED AND REGISTERED?

2 WHAT IS YOUR AREA OF EXPERTISE, AND HOW CAN YOU HELP ME REACH MY GOALS?

your finances, including investment management, financial planning, retirement planning, legacy planning, and tax services.

3 WHAT IS YOUR FEE STRUCTURE, AND WHAT IS INCLUDED IN THAT FEE?

6

Credit Counselor: A credit counselor can help you with debt management, credit counseling, and financial education to help improve your credit score.

4 WHAT IS YOUR FIDUCIARY DUTY?

7

Estate Planner: An estate planner can assist in developing a plan for passing on your assets, either during your lifetime or after your death.

8 Insurance Agent: An insurance agent can help with a range of insurance needs, including life insurance, home insurance, auto insurance, and disability insurance, among others.

9 Financial Analyst: They can perform financial analysis to help a company or an individual make better financial decisions, including analysing financial statements, economic trends, and investments.

5 WHAT IS YOUR COMMUNICATION STYLE, AND HOW OFTEN CAN I EXPECT TO MEET WITH YOU?

Financial Educator: A financial educator can provide education on financial topics, including investing, saving, budgeting, and managing debt, through various mediums, such as online courses, workshops, and seminars.

10

6 CAN YOU PROVIDE REFERENCES FROM OTHER CLIENTS?

Financial Coach: A financial coach can help individuals establish financial goals, develop a budget, plan for retirement, and make decisions to improve their financial well-being.

11

As you just read, there are many different areas of expertise in finance. Just like you wouldn’t go to most barbers for a balayage, it’s important to know who can help you with what you need from finance professionals. Outside of their accreditations, make sure you work with one you like working with and feel at ease with. Being able to ask questions without fear of judgment, being clear when you don’t understand something, and being educated along the way are all key factors in choosing the right one for you.

HERE ARE SOME QUESTIONS YOU SHOULD ASK BEFORE SELECTING A FINANCE PROFESSIONAL

WHERE CAREERS BEGIN

IN SCHOOL, LAURA (LEIGH) KERR WAS A HIGH-ACHIEVING PUPIL WITH HER SIGHTS SET ON BECOMING AN EDUCATOR, BUT SHE NEVER WOULD HAVE GUESSED THAT SHE WOULD END UP A MULTI-AWARD-WINNING EDUCATOR AND EDUCATION

DIRECTOR FOR RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL . TODAY, HER MISSION IS ALL ABOUT BRINGING AWARENESS TO THE IMPORTANCE OF EDUCATION AND BREAKING THE STIGMA AGAINST HAIRDRESSING AS A PROFESSION.

greeted by smiling faces at reception. Beyond the reception, you can see a fully operational and bustling salon. Were we in the right place? Is there an academy here?

Laura Leigh toured us around the Howard Street location. As you walk in the doors, you are

Laura Leigh brought us through the salon and to the bright, glass rooms (yes glass – not class)

where they deliver theory to the students and apprentices each morning. The multifunctional spaces can be used to show PowerPoint, tables can be brought in for group work or discussions, and mannequin heads can be brought in for practical classes. Next to the theory rooms, is a ‘staff room’

We sat down with Laura Leigh at the Rainbow Room Academy at 64 Howard Street in the city centre of Glasgow – a modern, airy, and open space that felt nothing like a traditional academy.

Photography // Luigi Di Pasquale

Photography // Darren McGavin

which more closely resembles a bar. Laura Leigh said: “This is where everyone from apprentices, stylists, to management all come for our breaks. We wanted to encourage that community, family feeling, by not sectioning off our break spaces.”

Just by seeing the space alone, it is clear that Laura Leigh and the Rainbow Room Academy’s approach to education is a very modern and switched-on approach. There is a variety of education opportunities available through the Rainbow Room Academy. They offer Professional Courses for qualified hairdressers who want to take their skills to the next level, whether that be through taking a course in barbering, geometric principles, long hair dressing, and more. The Rainbow Room Academy also offers training to independent salon teams, if an owner feels their staff are ready for a refresh or upskill. The education space is also available to hire for external training or photoshoots too.

But what Rainbow Room Academy is possibly best known for is its apprenticeship programme, which Laura Leigh has taken off the ground and soared to new limits. Within Rainbow Room, apprentices are taken on to gain the right training from day one, learning from some of the best educators in the UK, and getting to gain practical salon skills while achieving their SVQ Level 2 and Level 3.

Laura Leigh explained: “There are two key elements to being an apprentice. The first is their onthe-job training, working within the salon, assisting stylists, shampooing, rinsing colour, working reception, and tidying up. So, through this aspect, they are learning visually and getting one-to-one training from stylists in the salon. This is a massive component of their qualification because it teaches them how to be in a salon. Then you have the off-thejob training, which is where we step in. This is based on a very specific qualification structure, making sure that we are meeting National Occupational standards and HABIA etc. In this element, we deliver theory and practical skills, and do their assessments, as well as include lessons on numeracy, communication, technical skills, and mental health.

“This shows the huge difference between an Apprenticeship and a Qualification. Because these days we are seeing a lot of people come out of college with their qualification in hairdressing, but once they enter the real world, it’s a nasty shock. This prepares them for a realistic working environment with good working habits and a great work ethic.”

Laura Leigh shared that the retention rate for apprentices that start with Rainbow Room Academy and go on to becoming Rainbow Room stylists is 80% for those who complete their Level 2 SVQ, and 100% for those completing their SVQ 3. Now, this apprenticeship structure is not something unique to Rainbow Room International, so what’s unique to RRI that is leading them to such success year after year? Laura Leigh said: “What makes Rainbow Room unique is that we offer so many opportunities and branches for growth and success for our team. Whether you want to be a salon stylist, a salon manager, a session stylist, a colour expert, or an educator… we can give you the path to get there.

“We also invest so much money, time and passion into our training and educating, and the

opportunities we give our students. For example, for the past two years, we have organised exchange trips for our apprentices in Europe. We are just back from a two-week exchange trip to Italy where students had the opportunity to work and learn in Italian salons, gaining not only practical salon skills but essential life skills and self-confidence too.”

Listening to Laura Leigh speak so passionately about her students and the work they do, it is clear that she is one of the secret ingredients to the success of Rainbow Room Academy. But how did she get here? She explained: “When I was 15, I had my sights set on becoming a PE teacher and playing professional volleyball. I had no interest in hairdressing whatsoever, but when we were offered two weeks of work experience in a salon, I thought it would be a bit of fun and a skive. Turned out, I instantly loved it, and I never left.”

Laura Leigh was offered a Saturday job and she continued to work there throughout high school and on holidays. However, when Laura Leigh told her family that she wanted to turn it into her career, the word she used to describe their reaction was “devastated.”

Laura Leigh explained: “My family saw hairdressing as not a long-term career. Not a stable career. Not a profitable career. I was far too academic to go into a career like this.”

But ever since, Laura Leigh has fought and forged her way through the industry, carving a career for herself that proved all of her family's fears wrong. From her first stylist job on the floor of the Buchanan Street Rainbow Room when she was 17, to today, Laura Leigh proves that with some hard graft, the support of a company like Rainbow Room, and passion for what you do, you can turn your future into whatever you want it to be. And it could all start with an apprenticeship.

MIND YOUR MONEY!

BY LIZ MCKEON

SALON BUSINESS EXPERT, LIZ MCKEON IS SERIOUS ABOUT HELPING SALON BUSINESSES THRIVE AND GROW, AND MONEY MANAGEMENT IS A MAJOR COMPONENT OF THAT SUCCESS.

Salon business financial planning is an on-going process, as good accounts are the basis of a good business. If you don’t have an accurate grasp of your financial situation, your business plans will be based on little more than guess work. Running a salon is very time consuming, and it is tempting to devote the lion’s share of time and effort to developing your services, hiring the right team, marketing and finding customers. As the owner, you will be called on to make financial decisions on a daily basis, therefore it is important to carve out some time to tend to the financial health of your company.

9 Financial Planning Tips for Salon Owners

1

MANAGING CASHFLOW

Running a successful salon boils down to one critical point – making money. Your money will work for you and your business will have enough when you give it energy, time and understanding. It is your responsibility to know about your business financially. A healthy and positive cashflow enables you to meet current obligations, such as paying suppliers and staff, while also building up a reserve for emergencies. If cashflow is a challenge, your business will stall and your stress levels will suffer. Start the discipline of a running a ‘cash flow analysis’, which tells you how much money is flowing in and out of your business. This allows you to effectively plan for the future.

2

KEEP AN EMERGENCY FUND

Always put a little bit of money aside in case an emergency occurs. Despite the best planning, everyone runs into unforeseen costs or business emergencies.

3

MINIMISE YOUR CUSTOMER ACQUISITION COST

Know how much it costs your business in time and money to acquire a new client. Always work towards minimising this cost by increasing your ‘word of mouth opportunities’. Focus on retaining your clients by providing outstanding customer service and great quality services. Do everything you can to make sure every client is happy leaving, wants to rebook and is delighted to send you hot referrals. This will seriously reduce your marketing costs and maintain quality in your salon.

4

FOCUS ON YOUR CORE BUSINESS PLAN

It is tempting to want to keep expanding when you first start a salon and get consumed with short-term profits rather than long-term success. So, the best advice for new salons is to run a tight ship, when it comes to your finances. Don’t overextend yourself with loans for “new ideas” that go beyond your initial business plan because you think it will make you rich faster. Instead, reinvest your profits back into the business to stimulate growth. Stick to your core business plan and focus on making it a reality before you take on any additional expansion goals for the business. Your main focus is to create a solid and sustainable business for long-term growth and success.

5

CREATE A BUDGET AND STICK TO IT

Don’t be tempted to spend more money than you have. Setting conservative budgets is a trademark of successful salons. Your salon needs to be able to afford to grow and you must manage that growth. Determine what to charge based on your costs, your desired profits, competition and your USPs.

6

INVEST IN PROFESSIONAL FINANCIAL GUIDANCE

If you find it hard to manage your finances, invest in getting advice from someone impartial, such as an accountant or a financial consultant. You may have to pay a little extra for this professional help with the financial side of your business, but you will save money in the long-run and have an accurate budget to work with. All of this makes planning for the future easier and a lot more manageable.

7

CREATE A CASH FLOW PROJECTION

When it comes to financial matters, it is critical to create a cash flow projection. This is based on payments you expect to get in the future and expenses you’ll face. Cash flow projections help you make smarter financial decisions as a business leader. You’ll have a good understanding of your sales goals and the levels your outgoings need to stay at. This type of planning will prevent you from running out of money.

Your financial consultant can help your create your cash flow projections.

You can then take your cash flow projections and work with the numbers within a marketing context. For example, what occupancy is required on a daily basis to ensure you achieve your projections and what are your marketing plans to ensure you have enough clients every day to achieve your targets?

Once you have your cashflow projections in place, you have a guideline that impacts on every financial decision you make. As business changes, revisit your cash flow projections and adapt accordingly.

8

KNOW YOUR NUMBERS

Review your numbers regularly, in fact review your numbers daily. At a minimum, know your sales, expenses, wages and bank balance. Monitoring sales daily helps you to purchase efficiently so you have enough stock to meet demand, but excess money is not tied up in overstock. Keep more cash in your accounts by staying on top of when your bills are due for payment. If you have positive cashflow, pay on time, but not early unless you are getting discount.

9 SET YOUR GOALS

Separate personal and business goals, as blurring the lines could mean compromising some aspects of your finances for another. Of course, you are building the salon business to make money to forward your personal financial goals. But, if you don’t distinguish between personal and business goals, you may end up compromising both.

Powerless people make powerless decisions. Empowered people make powerful decisions. To make quality financial decisions, you must deal in facts that you own, know and understand.

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MERMADE HAIR SUPER SERUM 50ML

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OLIVIA GARDEN FINGERBRUSH BOAR & NYLON COMBO BLOOM EDITION PEACH

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MERMADE HAIR REPAIR MASK 150ML

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