SalonEVO North America Issue 22 (October/November)

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Creative Director// Ray Civello. Hair Color// Lupe Voss, Sammi Bruns, Haley Reeb. Hair Styling// Peter Gray, Morgan Roy. Make up// Melanie Whitmore.  Support// Tina Chung, Guin Wickham, Therese Snow, Michael Brick. Photographer// Joe Bulawan.

KEVIN LUCHMUN

RETRO REVIVAL COLLECTION

Hair// Kevin Luchmun. Tools// Andis

reSURGE Shaver, reVITE Clipper. Photography// Kevin Luchmun.

DIRECTORS

Andrew Brewster// andrew@barberevo.com

David

david@barberevo.com

Greg Wickham// design@salon-evo.com

Mairi

mmulhern@barberevo.com

SALES MANAGER

Mairi Cotter// mairi@barberevo.com

* * * * ACCOUNT MANAGER

Jane Thomson// jane@salon-evo.com

* * * *

MARKETING MANAGER

Nathalia Almeida// nathalia@barberevo.com

* * * * OFFICE MANAGER

Elspeth Foster// elspeth@barberevo.com * * * * COVER Ray Civello // Joe Bulawan

Well, the final days of summer have rolled in and with the changing of the season comes prep for one of the busiest seasons of the year – if not the busiest! We hope everyone had some time off to recharge with a vacation or two before more hard work begins.

This quarter, salons and stylists are hit with Halloween, Christmas, and party season – not to mention clients looking for reparative services as the colder weather impacts the healthy, glowing hair they nurtured throughout spring and summer.

Fear not! We’re here to ready you for all festivities and help you smash your goals! Our experts talk retail, business, refining your service menu, market strategies, and boosting your skillset to bring as many people through your doors as possible.

Here at EVO, we’re set for a bumper fall and winter, filled with travel, events, and the biggest trade

shows in North America. The team will be at Salt Lake City for Utah’s largest Beauty & Barber Expo – we’re looking forward to two days packed full of education, prizes, contests, and networking with you guys!

We’ll also be touching down in Texas for the Premiere San Antonio, which we’re told is the ULTIMATE beauty experience. We had an incredible time at Premiere Orlando, so can’t wait to experience what Texas has to offer. Drop us a message or email if you want to connect (see below).

We always have plenty of content on the go from our travels, so stay tuned for our YouTube going live @ evoenterprises! It’ll be packed with valuable advice from leading stylists, barbers, marketing experts, session stylists, business owners, and so much more.

Find us on Instagram @salonevomag / Facebook @salonevomag / email info@salon-evo.com

IT’S TIME TO PREP YOUR BUSINESS FOR THE FINAL QUARTER OF 2023. AS THE BUSIEST TIME OF YEAR, IT’S IMPORTANT TO BUILD YOUR SKILLSET AND MAXIMIZE TIME SPENT BEHIND THE CHAIR. LET US HELP YOU BOOST THAT BOTTOM LINE FOR A FRUITFUL WINTER.

ANDREW BREWSTER & DAVID FOSTER | CO-FOUNDERS

I DON’T KNOW ABOUT YOU, BUT WE’RE FEELING 22! WELCOME TO OUR TWENTY-SECOND ISSUE OF SALONEVO NORTH AMERICA. SUMMER IS OFFICIALLY BEHIND US AND THE FESTIVE SEASON IS ON THE HORIZON! NEED A LITTLE INSPIRATION TO GET THROUGH THIS TRANSITIONAL TIME? WELL, YOU’VE COME TO THE RIGHT PLACE!

A moment for the cover please! Featured this issue is an image from Color Space’s latest collection. Check out the in-depth interview we had with Lupe Voss and Ray Civello, the masterminds of Color Space, to get a glimpse of the passion and prowess behind the brand.

Our first feature of this issue is all about hair texture. Do you know your texture, from the 1A to 4C? In order to move forward in an more equal and inclusive industry, it is essential to do the work so that all hair textures can be given the same love and care. In this feature, we speak to the leaders in hair texture education to inspire you to embrace natural textures of all kinds!

With the Barbie movie making a splash this summer, I think we are all dreaming of getting a 24’’ platinum ponytail, right? Just me? This feature, we talk about everything from selecting the right method for your

client, boosting your business, to investing in the right education and certification for you.

Let’s get down to business! Hairdressing certainly isn’t all fun and games. While it takes a lot of creativity, sometimes you have to put your business, management and finance caps on, to ensure a sustainable and successful career, so you can have more time doing what you love. From boosting your income, protecting your income, finding a mentor, to looking ahead and preparing for the next season, we cover it all.

With Halloween around the corner, we can’t help but get inspired by all of the boundary-pushing, creative and avant-garde hairstyling that is being done out there. Experts in the avant-garde, from the editorial to the punk rock, the crazy and the colorful, weigh in to give their best advice on staying creative.

JENNIFER PAXTON | EDITOR

NEW JERSEY INTENDS TO PASS LEGISLATION THAT REQUIRES LISCENCING TO INCLUDE OF ALL HAIR TYPES AND TEXTURES

The Texture Education Collective, led by The Professional Beauty Association and founding partners Aveda, DevaCurl™, L'Oréal USA, and Neill come together with key industry leaders to champion texture-inclusive education legislation.

Professional Beauty Association (PBA) is working in conjunction with the Texture Education Collective (TEC) to announce the stewardship of texture-inclusive legislation in New Jersey.

New Jersey is expected to soon pass bill A5443/ S3845, which requires training of cosmetologists, defined as hairstylists, beauticians, barbers, and hair braiders, to include working on textured hair.

This bill is sponsored by New Jersey State Assemblywoman Angela McKnight and New Jersey State Senator Teresa Ruiz. Angela said: "No one should be penalized for the way they wear their hair or the way it grows out of their head. This bill requiring cosmetology training to include textured hair will help stylists as well as patrons.

“Most schools have never taught how to care for natural hair so stylists often turn away clients with textured hair or charge a higher price. Now, stylists will not feel intimidated because of lack of knowhow and patrons don't have to fear being turned away. This bill is a huge step for inclusion."

The Texture Education Collective was formed by an alliance of professional hair industry leaders with a shared goal of encouraging cosmetology state board licensing requirements and curriculums nationwide to be inclusive of all hair types and textures. One of

ANDIS DEBUTS NEW RETRO REVIVAL STYLE COLLECTION FEATURING KEVIN LUCHMUN

the primary objectives of the TEC is to encourage states to adopt textured hair education as part of their curriculum and state board exams.

The mission of the Texture Education Collective is twofold:

To ensure all hairstylists are equipped with the education, skills and tools to be able to service all clients and all hair types and textures.

1

Andis® Company’s International Artistic Lead, Kevin Luchmun, premiered his Retro Revival collection at BarberCon in Dallas, Texas. After months in development, Kevin’s newest styles debuted to incredible fanfare. Presenting six unique cuts to round out this collection, these styles are modeled on multiple genders and feature several hair textures and popping colors to complement the edgy elements of nostalgia.

2

To pave the way for all consumers to feel welcomed, valued, understood, and seen when getting serviced by hairstylists while upholding the highest standards in health and safety.

Founding members of the Texture Education Collective include Aveda, DevaCurl™, L'Oréal USA, and Neill. Supporting partners include Avalon, BBR, Bumble & Bumble, Evie Johnson, L'ANZA, Living Proof, Milady, Sam Villa, and Texture vs Race.

The PBA, in partnership with the Texture Education Collective, urges supporters to sign the petition on the TEC website to include textured hair in cosmetology testing standards. For more information, visit probeauty.org

GREENCIRCLE SALONS’ STUDY SHOWS 84% OF CLIENTS ARE MORE LIKELY TO BOOK IN WITH A GREEN SALON

Recent studies by GreenCircle Salons shows that around 84% of salon guests appreciate green initiatives and a business’s efforts to make their salon as kind to the planet as it is to the clients.

Elevating your business by going green can be done in several ways, the study says. Here’s the scoop:

1 How to tap into the sustainability surge: salon guests are more environmentally aware and want to support businesses that are going green and offering sustainable services. Learn more about what really matters to your customers.

2 Connect with clients who care: 84% of salon guests surveyed care about a salon’s environmental impact. Learn the secret to attracting new clients while making a difference.

As a part of the Andis Company, Luchmun crafted his looks with Andis professional tool line, with a strong reliance on the reSURGE Shaverand the reVITE Clipper. After 6 months of planning, Kevin’s looks are not only emblematic of his incredible skill but of the elite-level performance of Andis products. As Andis’ International Artistic Lead, Kevin viewed this as an opportunity to not only drive innovation in the styling sphere but to demonstrate the versatility of Andis’ cordless lineup of clippers, trimmers, shavers and accessories.

“My goal here was to take the inspiration that’s constantly available to us from fashion to social media, to our day-to-day lives and to create a collection that would totally cut through that noise. But, rather than building on contemporary trends, it was my intention to reinvent retro and older styles from the ground up. With the help of my incredible creative team and my Andis partnership, I feel that this collection is the start of a complete reset for my own work and the barbering industry as a whole,” said Luchmun.

3

Growing Green: Get access to easy sustainability tips and tricks that will elevate your business and transform your beauty waste.

4

Leveraging sustainable efforts for recruitment: A new generation of stylists is passionate about the environment. Being a Certified Sustainable Salon can help you differentiate yourself from the competition and secure the best talent.

Learn how you can elevate your business at greencirclesalons.com or salontoday.com for more information about the study and how it impacts you as the business owner.

ORIBE RELEASE EXCLUSIVE COLLECTION FOR 15 YEAR ANNIVERSARY

Oribe is excited to celebrate its 15-year anniversary with an exclusive collection of cult favorites, the 15 Years Limited Edition Anniversary Set.

This limited-edition set includes travel-size versions of the award-winning top sellers that create and maintain the luxuriously healthy hair that Oribe is celebrated for, while exclusive fragrance and bodycare favorites imbue the skin with Oribe’s transportive signature scents. The design of the limitededition box set speaks to the brand’s gratitude in a subtle yet meaningful way.

With clean lines, neutral colors, highquality and recyclable materials, the elegant box is characterized by simplicity, symmetry, balance, and harmony and mirrors the timeless nature of hair care. The Oribe logo is grand in size but subdued in blind embossing and highlighted by the striking rose gold foil-stamped number "15” woven within the logotype.

When Oribe Hair Care launched in 2008, best-in-class luxury hair care was not yet a category. Legendary hairstylist Oribe Canales and industry veteran Daniel Kaner changed the beauty landscape by introducing a unique hair care collection that set the standard for performance. Now, to celebrate its first 15 years of iconic hair, Oribe introduces a limited-edition collection of 15 specially curated favorites.

DID WAHL JUST DROP AN ALBUM?

Wahl Unveils Icons of Wahl Campaign, Fusing Sound of Iconic Barbering Clippers with Original Music Tracks. The innovator in the barber industry is crossing over into music, integrating the unique sound of their clippers into a summer soundtrack created by legendary professionals.

Wahl Clipper Corporation, a pioneer in the barber tool industry for over 100 years, dropped six new tracks as part of its new Icons of Wahl campaign.

At the heart of every barbershop and salon is a musical backdrop that sets the tone for the space, the experiences, and the clients. The sound of their iconic clippers and trimmers has always been an omnipresent hum in the background of every haircut. In a bold creative move, Wahl blended these familiar sounds with music that resonates with modern professionals, giving birth to six fresh tracks, each seamlessly incorporating the distinctive sounds of a Wahl tool all while celebrating the unique identity and diversity of industry pros.

The Icons of Wahl campaign showcases their line-up of headliner tools, Wahl's most enduring products, each with its own unique legacy. These tools stand the test of time and have become the cornerstone for modern barbers and stylists. With Wahl's clippers and trimmers in hand, these professionals elevate their artistry, producing exceptional results that leave a lasting impression on their clients.

The Icons of Wahl campaign features legendary professionals, including Rick Morin,

Fernando Ibánez, Garland Fox, Kristi Faulkner, Nieves, and Arisa Thomas, each paired with the headlining Wahl tool that has played a pivotal role in shaping their careers. Wahl enlisted producer John Ferreria to craft original songs that merge the rhythms of their favorite tools with the genres that inspire them:

01. Rock the Look// Rick Morin feat. Wahl Senior® (80’s Rock)

02. Abracadabra//

Kristi Faulkner feat. Wahl Magic Clip® (Electro Pop)

03. Style Standards//

Garland Fox feat. Wahl Legend® (Jazz)

04. El Cabello//

Fernando Ibánez feat. Wahl Super Taper® (Latin)

05. Fine Tune// Nieves feat. Detailer® Li (Alt Hip-Hop)

06. Fur Sure//

Arisa Thomas feat. KM10® (Easy Pop)

The Icons of Wahl campaign is a genre-blurring crossover for barber professionals and music enthusiasts alike, with custom music tracks available for download and sharing on various social media platforms.

As part of the campaign, the entire Icons of Wahl line, including the Senior, the Legend, the Magic Clip, the Super Taper, the KM10, and the Detailer Li, is now available for purchase at wahlpro.com. The original Icons of Wahl songs can be enjoyed on YouTube, Facebook, Instagram, TikTok, and can be downloaded from wahlpro.com/icons.

DENMAN WINS GOLD AT THE GLOBAL GREEN BEAUTY AWARDS

www.denmanbrush.com.

Denman has won Gold in the Best Vegan Hair Product category at the Global Green Beauty Awards! The awards received over 650 product entries from all over the world including green, clean and eco hair and beauty products. The awards celebrate the global hair and beauty industry’s move towards making their products, packaging and sourcing kinder to the planet. Denman’s D81M Vegan Style and Shine Brush with its synthetic bristles which add gloss and shine is part of Denman’s dedicated Vegan Brush range.

In the Vegan Range here are no physical or anatomical animal content and no biological content or waste animal content. Often animal oils and by-products are used in glues and manufacturing processes and this range is free of any animal content plus no materials or manufacturing processes used impact on the welfare or well-being of animals.

The Vegan Range includes the D6 Be Bop Scalp Brush, the D81M Style and Shine Brush, the D82M Finisher, the D3 and D4 Original Styler, the D15 Mini Styler and the D91 Backcomber.

LO-PROFX Limited Edition

Iridescent High-Performance Clipper and Trimmer

LithiumFX+ Limited Edition

Limited Edition GOLDFX Trimmer and UV-Disinfecting Single-Foil Shaver Duo Pack

Iridescent Clipper and Trimmer Duo Pack babylisspro.com

UV-Foil Limited Edition Iridescent UV-Disinfecting Single-Foil Shaver

LimitedFX Camo Collection Clipper and Trimmer Duo Pack

WASHI SABLE MASTER SHEARS

NO.5P BLONDE

ULTA BEAUTY GET A GRIP GEL FACE PRIMER

A unique gel formula that leaves the skin feeling nourished and prepped for makeup application. Grips makeup to the skin with ease!

WAHL PROFESSIONAL 5 STAR CORDLESS BARBER COMBO ™

$279.00 (SRP) // wahlpro.com

ORIBE HOLIDAY GOLD LUST COLLECTION

Every year, Oribe launches its iconic holiday collection. This year’s results have been no let down. This year’s collaboration with Louis Barthélemy centers around the preservation and revival of traditional crafts, collaborating with artisans around the world. This collection includes the Gold Lust Shampoo, Gold Lust Conditioner, and Gold Lust Oil Travel.

$115.00 // oribe.com

18:21 MAN MADE SWEET TOBACCO CLAY, POMADE, PASTE & WAX

Incredible range of premium hair styling products suitable for every range of hold, featuring delicious, unmatched aromas of sweet tobacco dark-toned vanilla and manuka honey.

$25.00 each // 1821manmade.com

GOLDWELL TOPCHIC ZERO

Conscious. Progressive. Responsible. With Topchic Zero, you can have it all. The best performance and conscious, feel-good color with a vegan ammonia-free formula. Topchic Zero offers an exceptionally pleasant color service experience, from mixing to finish. goldwell.com

BABYLISSPRO NANO TITANIUM™ EXTENDED BARREL CURLING IRONS

The NEW Limited Edition Iridescents are Irresistible! Evenly distributed heat, up to 430ºF to create long-lasting curls with radiant shine. The barrel is 2’’ longer than traditional curling irons, making it perfect for styling longer lengths. Available in 1” and 1 ¼”

$74.99 // babylisspro.com

COLOR SPACE

3D-EMI HAIR COLOR

Revolutionary hair color with brilliant color saturation, conditioning properties and 99.8% pigment purity.

colorspacehair.com

COUNTESS TEXTURIZING SHEARS

This #1 selling clipper pairs up with its #1 cordless trimmer in the 5 Star Cordless Barber Combo™. With DLC blades, an upgraded motor, and matching look, this duo is sure to turn heads in the shop.

COLOR MAKE SPACE FOR

RAY CIVELLO AND LUPE VOSS ARE CO-FOUNDERS OF TRANSFORMATIVE COLOR AND EDUCATION BRAND COLOR SPACE™. WE CAUGHT UP WITH THE POWER DUO TO FIND OUT WHAT MAKES THEIR NEWEST PRODUCT, 3D-EMI, UNIQUE – AND WHY INNOVATION AND EDUCATION ARE KEY TO THE GROWTH OF COLOR TECHNOLOGY.

Color Space™ was born out of the desire to create scientifically backed hair color products that help salons thrive. Ray is a leading Creative Director, Educator and Distributor, whilst Lupe is a master colorist and Founder of the Hair Color Magic™ education program. Together, they are a creative and business powerhouse, channeling their extensive experience to revolutionize hair color as we know it.

Lupe said: “We’re on a mission to bring genuine care to our professional customers and their clients. Every single move we make is powered by the professional – our team still educate, and we still work behind the chair, so we know what matters to the stylists and colorists of today.”

From high-performance products driven by scientific research to a color education program that teaches techniques and critical business skills, every aspect of Color Space™ exists to elevate the salons and industry that Ray, Lupe, and their global production, education, and lab teams love.

Their continuing hands-on experience in the industry keeps them on their toes – Ray and Lupe know what it takes to be the best in the business.

“We still do hair, and we still work with clients –we’re not executives who haven’t worked on the salon floor for decades,” Ray said. “This is why we resonate and connect so strongly with our network and then the students that we teach. Covid-19

made us a fragmented industry for years and when you’re fragmented by nature, to have community is so desired and essential for growth, survival, and sustainability. That’s why we are a strong company, with a strong brand, a strong network, and even stronger products.”

Superior products and transformative education are at the heart of what Color Space™ does, powered by a proven business model that champions the salon stylist. Nothing but the best is accepted when it comes to developing the Color Space™ brand. Their newest innovation is 3D-EMI. This revolutionary high-performing demi hair color line was created with the latest scientific innovations in mind, boasting brilliant color saturation, conditioning properties, and 99.8% pigment purity. “This is more than just a treatment – it’s an experience,” Lupe smiled. Ray told us what makes 3D-EMI stand out from other color lines on the market. He explained, very honestly, that you can't really be a serious hair color company without a demi line… “We knew we had to do something that was better than the hundreds of other hair color lines, so we started and stopped three times over four years when developing 3D-EMI. We are the first hair color brand to make a product that cares for the scalp backed by our Adaptogenic Desert Blend of botanicals.” 

“EVERY SINGLE MOVE THE COLOR SPACE™ TEAM MAKES IS POWERED BY THE PROFESSIONAL – WE STILL EDUCATE, AND WE STILL WORK BEHIND THE CHAIR SO WE KNOW WHAT MATTERS TO THE STYLISTS AND COLORISTS OF TODAY.”

Photography // Joe Bulawan

Lupe furthered: “So, we looked at the formulation of natural ingredients from a scientific perspective – how can we make our product healthy for the client and stylist? For example, we started looking at adaptogens, which are plants that can thrive in the harshest conditions. We really combine this beautiful world of science and botanicals to create a performance that is unmatched. Natural ingredients are kind to the stylist’s skin and enriching for the clients hair and scalp.”

Ray explained that outside of putting color into a cream base about 50 years ago, hair color technology hasn't changed. Instead of being intimidated by this legacy, Ray saw fertile ground. “There was so much space in which to experiment with how to mix color, how to bottle it, how to apply it. We asked ourselves, can hair color be mixed with machines in salons? That’s how we do it in the labs, so why not on the floor? UNIMIX is our automated mechanical hair color mixer that creates perfectly blended color for precise application with the benefit of reducing processing time by up to 30%. It reduces scalp irritation and sensitivity by properly mixing and activating key soothing ingredients.”

Ray continued: “We developed the innovative Color Space™ Way, complete with our STOP function, which prevents oxidation, fading, and discoloration. I'd put 3D-EMI up against any other demi product in the world right now – no product performs at the same level.”

Executing the brightest, shiniest, most color-rich looks means understanding the formulation of your colors and how external elements affect the dying process. We wanted to know more about the stability of the Color Space™ 3D-EMI demi-permanent formulation – what makes it perform heads above the rest? Lupe got into the nitty gritty.

“Performance is paramount! Color Space™ product lines can offer nearly 100% success rate due to the

way we have utilized three main color alkalizers: ammonia, MEA (Monoethanolamine), and AMP (aminomethyl propanol).

“Every color product requires these alkaline solutions in order to drive pigments into the hair shaft and normally, brands will intermix ammonia, MEA, or AMP to create all-rounder products,” Lupe explained. “However, ours are all pure, which optimizes results in every area, from shine and pigment to scent and skin friendliness.”

This master colorist continued: “We've created PRIMARY, which is our first calibrated line containing ammonia. Then we have ZERO, which is our ammoniafree MEA alkalizer. And now we have 3D-EMI, our pure AMP demi-permanent color – and THIS is your golden ticket for color performance in the salon.

"It will deposit like an ammonia as far as depth and vibrance, but it has a lesser chance of skin irritation that comes with MEA.”

ALL-CONSCIOUS, ALL-NATURAL

3D-EMI is enriched with Desert Blend botanicals. The desert is synonymous with dryness, much like the scalp. Color Space™ created a demi permanent hair color line with the uniqueness of nourishing scalp care and conditioning properties which leave hair feeling soft, luxurious, and well-conditioned with long-lasting shine.

is rich in natural compounds offering wound healing and moisturization for the skin.

Evening Primrose has been traditionally utilized for anti-inflammatory and moisturization to reduce dry, itchy skin.

• Sandy Verbena is a desert plant utilized for antiseptic properties to keep skin healthy and minimize breakouts.

• Joshua Tree commonly offers soothing benefits to the skin or scalp.

• Opuntia Cochenillifera is a type of cactus utilized for dry, sensitive skin.

• Ocotillo is a semi-succulent desert plant offering nourishing and conditioning properties to beauty formulations.

Creosote Bush is a medicinal herb used to address skin concerns.

TOP COLOR EDUCATION

In 2024, the CBB Advanced Academy is opening in Toronto – keep an eye on colorspacehair.com for more information. You can also enroll in the 3D-EMI Network and Complete Immersion Classes at colorspacehair.com/pages/classes-3demi •

How does this impact the salon owner, colorist, and then the client as well? Lupe revealed: “For the colorist, 3D-EMI doesn't only deliver the shine, condition, and tone; it is easy to use – simply pick your level, mix it 1:1, and choose the appropriate volume depending on whether you’re applying to wet or dry hair. All of our 44 skus are intermixable, which gives you ultimate creativity!”

What about the salon owner’s benefits? “Inventory is low with our products. You can customize the saturation using translucents or sheers, meaning bottles last longer. Often, color lines will come with numerous bottles for different levels of color, but Color Space™ simply brings the base shade and then give you the tools you need to customize the depth, vibrancy, and tone. We also offer refillable services where we can, so the owner knows they’re being environmentally conscious as well.”

And for clients? Lupe revealed: “As I said before, 3D-EMI desert blend is more of a treatment for clients – it smells glorious, it is kind to skin, and it soothes and moisturizes the hair as it lifts and colors it. The major client benefits are health and comfort related. Yes, they will have incredible color and shine when they leave your chair, but it is the anti-inflammatory nature of the natural adaptogens that gives them the most comfortable, luxurious experience ever. It’s unlike any other!” •

Photographed : Ray Civello & Lupe Voss

INCLUSIVITY STARTS WITH EDUCATION. DO YOU KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HAIR TYPE 1A AND 4C? ARE YOU COMFORTABLE WORKING WITH ANY TEXTURE OF HAIR THAT IS IN YOUR CHAIR? IF NOT, LET YOUR TEXTURE JOURNEY START HERE!

Photography // Event Imagery: Calvin G/ @calvingproductions

RECOGNIZING

HAIRSTYLIST, DIVERSITY & INCLUSION ADVOCATE, AND EDUCATOR, MONAÈ EVERETT (@MONAEARTISTRY ) NOTICED THAT WHILE THERE WERE MANY AWARDS IN THE PROFESSIONAL HAIR INDUSTRY, THERE WAS NOTHING THAT CELEBRATED THE ARTISTS WHO CHAMPIONED ALL HAIR TEXTURES IN THEIR WORK. SO, IN 2021, SHE CREATED TEXTURE STYLE AWARDS, A CELEBRATION OF DIVERSITY AND EXCELLENCE IN THE BEAUTY WORLD.

After realising her passion for celebrity styling, Monaè moved to New York City, where she was able to make connections with other creatives and photographers, and after many ups and downs, a promising career began to take shape.

Monaè said: “I remember during one of the down periods, I cried out to God and said, ‘If you let me figure this out, I promise, I will teach other artists my ways.’ So, once things drastically improved, it was time for me to give back. I began writing my 2nd book, Get Out of Your Own Way! 25 Insider Tips for Booking Celebrity Hairstyling Clients.”

While Monaè was writing and recollecting her own experiences in the industry, she began to reflect on the lack of diversity and inclusion that she had witnessed throughout her career and realised that the world was not as friendly of a place as she had convinced herself it was. This started Monaè on her journey as an advocate for diversity, equity, and inclusion in the hair industry.

Monaè explained that within the celebrity styling and session styling world, one common experience for texture expert hairstylists is that

they will be hired by a model or celebrity to prepare their hair before they go onto the set of the shoot, more often than not, the lead stylist on set does not have the knowledge or skill to work with the model’s texture. Yet, that on-set stylist will get all of the credit and payment for the result.

Monaè said: “This happens all too often in this industry. So, I wanted to address, why was this happening, and how could I help. I found that there was a disconnect between the people who have the skills and talent and the people who have the marketing and business skills to land themselves the roles they deserve. So, that is what I address in many of the courses I hold through the Monae Life Academy. The classes address how to help the deserving stylists find success in the celebrity styling world and make sure they are getting the credit they deserve.”

Speaking of giving credit where credit is due, this is what led Monaè to create the first Texture Style Awards in 2021. She explained: “I realised that a lot of the lack of diversity in the industry comes from a lack of information and exposure to

all hair textures, and the stylists who are skilled at working with all textures aren’t being recognized enough. So, in 2021, I launched a series of virtual classes and awards focusing on the four main hair textures. The classes were about more than just hair styling. I wanted to focus on opening the attendees' hearts and minds. I needed to create a safe space for artists to have open conversations about our fears and prejudices without any judgement.”

After the post-Covid world revival, Monaè Everett swiftly resumed serving her elite clientele of actors, singers, and performers. Yet, the resounding success of the 2021 Texture Style Awards, celebrated virtually, lingered. Encouraged by the immense demand, Monaè has initiated an in-person event for 2023. 

“ONE OF MY MAIN GOALS FOR THESE AWARDS WAS TO NOT ONLY ACKNOWLEDGE AND REWARD STYLISTS WHO EXCEL IN WORKING IN A VARIETY OF TEXTURES OF HAIR, BUT ALSO TO GET THESE DESERVING ARTISTS IN THE SAME ROOM AS THE PEOPLE AND BRANDS WHO CAN CREATE OPPORTUNITIES FOR THEM.”

On August 13, 200 beauty professionals gathered in New York for a night to celebrate diversity, talent, and beauty. Some of the notable attendees included names such as Keya Neal Vernon François Michelle O’Connor Greg Gilmore Sarah Potempa Cesar Deleon Ramirez, and so many more. The event was sponsored by brands such as Ouidad, Curls, Wet Brush, and Bio Ionic as Gold Crown sponsors, along with Silver Sponsor Myavanna and Bronze Sponsors MOROCCANOIL and ULTA Beauty. Other sponsors included Wella Education

Monaè said: “It was wonderful to have so many beauty professionals and brands in one room, all bonding over the want to see diversity on larger stages. Everyone put aside their professional alliances for one night all for the betterment of the industry as a whole, and it was a beautiful sight to see.”

The Texture Style Awards are divided into four main categories, based on the four hair textures: straight, wavy, curly, and coily. Each category then had subcategories of an “Up Style” or “Down Style”, plus a Student category. Each entrant was judged based on final hair texture, form, shape, hair health, detail image, and appeal, by a panel of 24 wellrespected judges.

“These categories demonstrate the range of hair textures, and how stylists’ creativity can alter the final look of each texture. Often when we hear the word ‘Textured’ we just think of coily hair. But all hair is textured, whether it is pin straight, wavy, curly, or coiled. The word “textured” is not another word for Black hair. There’s no way to break down hair just by race. Hairstylists have to learn the styling techniques and the fundamentals of hair to be truly inclusive for all!”

Winners of each category were not only awarded gift bags filled with $750 worth of products and tools, as well as a feature with a publication, but a one-on-one mentorship meeting with a sponsor ambassador.

Having the award show in person was especially important for Monaè because she was able to give a physical and literal platform for artists who are slaying all hair textures. She said: “One of my main goals for these awards was to not only acknowledge and reward stylists who excel in working with a variety of textures of hair, but also to get these deserving artists in the same room as the people and brands who can create opportunities for them.

I also wanted to create a visual representation for these powerful people in the industry to see the range of diversity and talent that is out there, to show them who and what they are creating products and tools for.” •

“OFTEN WHEN WE HEAR THE WORD ‘TEXTURED’ WE JUST THINK OF COILY HAIR. BUT ALL HAIR IS TEXTURED, WHETHER IT IS PIN STRAIGHT, WAVY, CURLY, OR COILED. THE WORD “TEXTURED” IS NOT ANOTHER WORD FOR BLACK HAIR. THERE’S NO WAY TO BREAK DOWN HAIR JUST BY RACE. HAIRSTYLISTS HAVE TO LEARN THE STYLING TECHNIQUES AND THE FUNDAMENTALS OF HAIR TO BE TRULY INCLUSIVE.”

Monaè is pursuing opportunities to consult with brands on DE&I and instruct train-the-trainer programs.

BY KEYA NEAL

THE ART OF

OUR EXPERT COLUMNIST SHOWS YOU HOW TO TURN THE DARKEST SHADES OF HAIR INTO BLONDS – MAKING SURE THAT THE HEALTH OF THE HAIR IS AS STRONG AS THE FINAL COLOR. THIS IS YOUR ULTIMATE STEP-BYSTEP FROM THE MASTER!

Let’s get straight into it! Being able to adjust your blonding process to meet the needs of various textures is more about the professional understanding of the core characteristics of your client’s fabric. In addition to that, understanding the chemistry of the products you’re using will allow you to shift your formulas to accommodate any texture that sits in your chair.

Bond builders and treatments are tools that help you to mitigate sensitivities, influenced or inherent, on all fabrics that you will inevitably encounter during a color service. Remember, when choosing a product line, evaluate product benefits and value proposition that will best address the needs of said textures. Product are for performance, not people!

Photography // Cody Rasmussen @codyras

Your key steps for every blonding service should include:

1 Conduct a thorough consultation and analyzation – know the fabric you’re working on, create a strategy.

2 Treat the hair for pre-existing sensitivities –and pre-shampoo for the cleanest lift.

3 Understand the capacity and limitations of the hair – manage expectations and set realistic standards.

4 Lower volume developers are best – 5-10v and TAKE YOUR TIME.

5 Push through that chicken-fat yellow – don’t remove product too early (another reason to use lower developer).

6

Test before removing your bleach – reapply and spot treat if necessary.

WHAT NOT TO DO!

Things to avoid during the blonding process.

1

Do not work on damaged hair

Please don’t proceed with a color appointment if the client’s hair is severely damaged, dehydrated, or has an underlying sensitivity that needs treatment. The blonding process is an intense one, so you want to make sure that the hair can handle the stress of the blonding process.

2

I want to look at each key blonding step more closely.

Use your time during the consultation to get a better idea of how to prep the client for the appointment. During your consultation, you should communicate with your guests on their expectations, chemical history, process and time, maintenance commitments, potential curl shift, and budget. Based on this evaluation, your client may need a series of in-salon treatments, at home treatments, or may be ready to go!

Before starting the color service, properly detoxing and cleansing the hair is key. Curly and coily guests tend to use more product, meaning there is more likelihood of product buildup. Having a clean canvas lends itself to achieve the cleanest and more viable lift in one setting.

To avoid heavy damage, you need to prep your client for the appointment – that includes a nightbefore routine, and sometimes a longer regime to treat underlying issues. After consultation, send them home with products that treat dehydration, or other deficiencies that can compromise the hair’s integrity. If a client needs intense treatment, a few in-salon treatments may be needed before proceeding with color. ALWAYS make sure the hair is clean before starting.

I know you’ve heard slow and steady wins the race when lifting deeper, heavily melinated hair. You may feel inclined to reach for 30-40 volume, but you’ll end up with a rushed process that doesn’t get a chance to remove enough pigment.

Lowering your developer, refreshing product, and taking your time will help push through that chickenfat-yellow while minimizing damage to your canvas.

Maintaining the most vibrant and lasting blond goes beyond the chair. Using color safe products, avoiding mineral heavy water, and using UV filters in the salon process is integral, but so is providing your client with education on which aftercare products to take home, how those products work, their benefits, and how not to use them.

Learning to expand your technical prowess across the texture spectrum opens the doors to limitless possibilities because you are learning to better service EVERYONE as a beauty professional, elevating the industry’s standard as a whole. With an estimated 65% of the U.S. population having some degree of texture, including curly, coily, or wavy, you expand your bottom line by being able to service the market at large instead of a segregated portion of it. The benefits are more than financial, they are socially beneficial as well.

Do not color hair that isn’t clean

You cannot work on hair that has not been shampooed thoroughly. Existing product buildup or dirt can impede the effectiveness of your product, resulting in uneven or unsatisfactory performance. Even if client says they shampooed their hair, do it anway.

3 DO NOT USE 40 Volume!

Especially on texture! 40 volume can easily blow the hair’s cuticle open, disturb natural curl patterns, and still leave you with unwanted red and yellow tones once it’s stopped processing. Bump it down to 5 or 10 volume, 20 volume in best case scenarios.

4 DO NOT PROCESS UNDER A DRYER!

This is the same as using 40 volume. Create a temperature-controlled environment for adequate processing. FastFoils are excellent at incubating and providing heat for maximum lift. Plastic caps are also a great alternative.

THE TRUTH ABOUT DEVELOPER

How long should you actually leave developer in? Processing times can vary. I recommend checking in 45 minutes and every 15 minutes afterwards for up to two hours. Once the oxygen has been dispelled and is no longer lifting, make a decision to stop at that level or re-apply with fresh product.

KNOW YOUR BRANDS

I love using the following brands for healthy blonding.

• Blonde Solutions Bleach

• K18

• Fast foils

• Malibu C detox treatments

• Schwarzkopf Professional Blond Me Lightener

7

Be gentle during the takedown – rinse softly, balance the PH, restore protein and moisture, and neutralize your processing with gentle cleanser.

The mission of Texture VS Race is to not only increase the bottom line financially, but create more well-rounded and inclusive stylists that confidently work on all textures of hair void of their fear-based biases.

AT THE TEXTURE VS RACE SUMMIT

FOUNDER OF TEXTURE VS RACE AND KOLOUR KULTURE KEYA NEAL IS HOSTING AN UNMISSABLE EVENT FEATURING CLASSES FROM AWARD-WINNING EDUCATORS, COLORISTS, SPEAKERS, STYLISTS, AND MORE.

KEYA TOLD US HOW THE TVR SUMMIT WILL ADD VALUE TO YOUR LEARNING AS AN INDUSTRY PRO.

The Texture VS Race Summit offers a variety of class formats for attendees to evaluate texture and expand their cutting, coloring, and styling techniques. These classes allow attendees to see and understand all texture from a scientific standpoint, giving them the foundational knowledge to begin coloring, cutting, styling, and caring for all textures. Keya continued: “While textured hair is a focus, product knowledge and technical education will teach attendees how to service both sides of the texture spectrum. Our technical education breaks down theory, provides demonstrations, and allows for hands-on practice with

guidance from the Texture VS Race Collaborative.”

Additionally, the classes help stylists to dismantle racial and textural biases through first-hand experiences, the science of beauty, and creating open conversation. Keya expanded: “This allows for the hearts AND hands of stylists to create safer and culturally competent spaces in their chair.”

What brands will be in attendance? Keya revealed: “We are excited to have the support of SalonCentric, K18, Joico, Wella, Ulta, FastFoils, Blonde Solutions, Essations, and more in the works. These brands are committed to creating more inclusive spaces in the

beauty industry and will be providing attendees with texture-inclusive education on the showroom floor, the main stage, and during breakout sessions.”

Ultimately, the Texture VS Race team aim to help beauty professionals advance in their career in all aspects. Keya explained how: “By providing business, wellness, mental health, and leadership training that is integrative and interactive. This summit is a platform for the stylist to enrich their own knowledge about different hair types through networking and value-packed educational seminars and classes.”

WHAT TO EXPECT

The lowdown of TVR Summit classes and educational value they offer.

Hydro-Discovery Curl Clinic: Collab Coaches walk attendees through the clinic floor in a round-robin style to help attendees experience the macrospectrum of texture via live models. Hands-on demonstrations will include dry consultation, texture analysis, wet consultation/analysis, detox, detangling, and product usage.

Signature Hands-On Education: Comprehensive and hands-on education covering cutting, coloring, and styling techniques for all hair textures.

The Language of Texture: Keya’s signature class addresses the history of natural hair and the science behind texture to dismantle textural and racial bias.

Curly Cutting Class: Refine your curly cutting techniques to add volume, accentuate natural curl patterns, and create shape.

Diamond Mastermind: A deep dive into the business of diversity that focuses on personal development, leadership, allyship, and creating an inclusive beauty space. This workshop will help beauty professionals build inclusive service menus, schedule timing, pricing structures and more.

Additional Education from: J Ladner, Ky

Smith, Elizabeth Faye, Carla Jones, Nina Tulio, Stephanie Luster, Cassandra Platinum, Aymen Eldabli, Micheline Barber, Brenda Amaral, Hunter Donia, Fey Katembo, Christopher Aaron, and the Texture VS Race Collaborative.

You can also expect:

- Brand Education

- Health and Wellness Classes

- Mental Health Self Care

- Panels

- Beauty Business

Photography // Shawn Maxwell @shawnlmaxwell

CREATING SPACE FOR A DIVERSE AND INCLUSIVE INDUSTRY THROUGH EDUCATION.

TEXTURE VS RACE IS A MOVEMENT TO CREATE A MORE DIVERSE AND INCLUSIVE BEAUTY INDUSTRY THROUGH TEXTURALLY-INCLUSIVE EDUCATION AND ANTIRACISM COACHING. BY PROVIDING STYLISTS WITH A STANDARDIZED TEXTURE CURRICULUM AND CREATING SPACE TO LEARN ABOUT THE CULTURAL SIGNIFICANTS OF NATURAL HAIR, TEXTURE VS RACE SEEKS TO MAKE THE INDUSTRY A SAFER SPACE. JOIN THE CONVERSATION.

HAIR IS A FABRIC, NOT A RACE

FINDING

AS AN ULTA BEAUTY PRO TEAM MEMBER , AND GLOBAL ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR L’ORÉAL AND MATRIX , MICHELLE O’CONNOR IS PASSIONATE ABOUT UNITING THE INDUSTRY THROUGH HER EDUCATION AND ADVOCACY. WE SAT DOWN WITH MICHELLE TO TALK ABOUT HER VISION FOR THE INDUSTRY.

From educating at Premiere Orlando to attending the Texture Style Awards, Michelle is always on the go. She is an expert across the field, from talking color, session styling, and working with all textures of hair. Michelle said: “People kind of know me as being in a lot of lanes at once, and that keeps me on my toes. I continue to be inspired by the next generation of stylists who come to my education, I learn as much from them as they do from me, and that fuels me.”

It is true that Michelle is an incredibly inspiring figurehead in the industry. But how does she balance it all? Michelle said: “You can’t be the best at everything at all times. So, for me, I think the key to balance is to just focus on one thing at a time, and make sure you are giving your 100% to whatever you are doing in that moment. Not to say you are dropping the ball on the other things, you just need to find the hierarchy prioritizing. It’s about maintaining your zen in the midst of the storm while prioritizing to be in the moment.”

We asked Michelle to share her vision for the future of the beauty industry, and what she sees as her role in shaping it. She said: “I take my responsibility very seriously in this industry. I envision an industry that truly comes together across hair texture lines, and color lines, and creates a cohesive, united beauty industry, that really holds stylists accountable for their actions, their language, and having inclusive skillset. I would love inclusivity to norm in every single salon environment so that no matter who you are, and what texture your hair is, you can feel confident that you will be in the hands of a capable and equipped hairdresser.”

In line with Michelle’s vision of a unified industry, the Ulta Beauty Pro Team brings together artists from all across the industry, all with different backgrounds, strengths, and brand connections. Michelle explained: “I love that Nick and Ulta Beauty acknowledged that we all have different ties and responsibilities, and we didn’t have to choose one or the other. I believe that loyalty is a skill that is dying in this industry, so I love that I could be

“I ENVISION AN INDUSTRY THAT TRULY COMES TOGETHER ACROSS HAIR TEXTURE LINES, COLOR LINES, AND CREATES A COHESIVE, UNITED BEAUTY INDUSTRY, THAT REALLY HOLDS STYLISTS ACCOUNTABLE FOR THEIR ACTIONS, THEIR LANGUAGE, AND HAVING AN INCLUSIVE SKILLSET. I WOULD LOVE INCLUSIVITY TO NORM IN EVERY SINGLE SALON ENVIRONMENT SO THAT NO MATTER WHO YOU ARE, AND WHAT TEXTURE YOUR HAIR IS, YOU CAN FEEL CONFIDENT THAT YOU WILL BE IN THE HANDS OF A CAPABLE AND EQUIPPED HAIRDRESSER.”

part of a team where we are encouraged to keep our integrity and loyalty to the brands we love and believe in, while still getting to collaborate with other artists who inspire me.”

Also in line with Michelle’s vision for the future of the industry, diversity, equity, and equally is a priority at Ulta Beauty. Michelle said: “Ulta Beauty's

leadership is exemplified by their pioneering stance on inclusivity. As industry trailblazers, they've been swift in recognizing the imperative of comprehensive representation. This is reflected in their proactive approach to implementing inclusive education, fostering diversity-driven product lines, and delivering inclusive content across digital platforms. Ulta leads the way in demonstrating that beauty truly knows no boundaries.

“Ulta Beauty embraces diversity on all fronts, fostering an environment where individuals of every background, race, and creed find a platform to celebrate their unique interpretations of beauty. This ethos is magnificently mirrored within our dynamic hair teams. Each team member, with their distinct career journeys and personal stories, contributes to an atmosphere of welcoming acceptance.”

In order to reach a more inclusive and diverse industry, Michelle believes that inclusive education is a must, and is proud that Ulta Beauty offers all of its stylists a wide range of education. She said: “Ulta Beauty stands alone in providing an unparalleled opportunity for professional growth. Our education offerings encompass an exhaustive range of hair textures, offering stylists an all-encompassing platform to delve deep into every hair type and master a diverse spectrum of techniques, all under one roof.”

Another way to ensure that your salon environment is inclusive to all is to carry a diverse range of products suitable for all hair types. Michelle said: “One of the standout facets of Ulta Beauty’s appeal is its commitment to catering to every hair texture. This is a pivotal reason behind my enthusiasm for being associated with this company. Ulta Beauty's curated product range empowers individuals to freely express their unique styles and preferences, reinforcing the essence of self-expression.”

Photography // Richard Monsieurs, ISP Creative, Roberto Ligresti

“

ULTA BEAUTY'S EXEMPLIFIED BY THEIR PIONEERING STANCE ON INCLUSIVITY. AS INDUSTRY TRAILBLAZERS, THEY'VE BEEN SWIFT IN RECOGNIZING THE IMPERATIVE OF COMPREHENSIVE REPRESENTATION.”

The first documented use of hair extensions and wigs is around 3400 BC, in Ancient Egypt. Wigs and hair extensions were worn by men and women higher up in society. It wasn’t until 1951 when an African American woman named Christina Jenkens invented and patented a technique for attaching hair extensions to natural hair. Christina was invited by other countries so she could teach them her hair weaving method.

Fast forward to today, and human hair extensions have a staggering market share of 4.4 billion dollars. If you as a professional don’t see this as an opportunity to grow within a multi-billon dollar industry, then read on so you can understand how hair extensions are transforming careers behind the chair.

Hair extensions today are more luxurious and natural-looking than ever. With 100% human hair extensions available, and advancements to installation techniques, modern-day hair extensions are changing the way our guests think about their hair. Without many limitations, we as professionals have the opportunity to truly transform our guests' entire look. But it’s going to take proper education and accountability, combined with quality tools and hair, to truly make your mark on this billion dollar industry. Education is key when looking at this booming market and deciphering how to enter it. You can tip toe in with free education and social media hot tips, or you can dive deep into the waters of high level education with companies such as Invisible Bead Extensions® and work with a brand that has years of experience in the extension education space.

We live in a time of pop-up methods, with techniques consistently being recycled and education being offered everywhere we look. It can be very overwhelming to figure out which method to learn and who to learn it from. You alone will need to decide where you find value and then invest in your education accordingly. What are you looking for in your education? Fast or thorough? Strong brand identity or self-guided autonomy? Once you have identified where you place value and what you want in return for your investment, the decision becomes quite easy. Research your options and the right choice for you will be loud and clear.

YOUR TEXTURE

BY MCKENZIE TURLEY

EXTENSIONS ARE FOR EVERYONE,

COLUMNIST AND OWNER OF

For years, professionals and their clients have both been limited by the lack of diversity of high quality hair extension textures, as well as education to install them. Invisible Bead Extensions® has been on the forefront of this development as they have turned their focus this year to bridging the gap between the texture community and the hair extension community. This month, IBE® is launching a revolutionary virtual course titled “The Art of Texture: Honoring the Fabrics We Weave”, which will educate extension artists about the differences in hair textures and how to properly prepare, install, and maintain extensions on their curly guests. IBE® is also expanding their store offerings to include a curly option in eight stunning colors to its professional buyers. Companies like Fre Extensions have taken the texture industry head-on by offering

a wide range of variety in both lengths, colors, and textures.

Now, allow me to give you even more to consider. You may be in love with your current situation behind the chair. You may be content providing precision cuts and beautiful colors to your guests. But what happens when your favorite long-time client starts down the difficult path of hair loss due to a sickness or hormonal imbalance? You can no longer give her that gorgeous color because her hair is thinning excessively and her hair is turning brittle and breaking off. As we all know, there is nothing worse than feeling helpless when a guest desperately needs your help. If you have a hair extension certification and have been well-trained, you can seamlessly introduce a service that will keep her happy and thriving in YOUR chair. No need to turn

SAYS SALONEVO

IBE , MCKENZIE TURLEY. IN THIS ISSUE, SHE LOOKS AT THE HISTORY OF EXTENSIONS AND WHY OFFERING DIVERSE SERVICES HELPS BOOST YOUR BOTTOM LINE.

Photography// Temple Productions.

her away or pass her off to another stylist in your salon. Instead, expand your skill set and become a hair “solutionist” instead of just a hair “stylist”.

If you’ve told yourself that the extension market is saturated, or that you couldn’t find enough guests to make your money back on certification, let me make one more attempt to change your mind. 34% of women have hair extensions included in their beauty regimen. 93% of women surveyed not currently wearing hair extensions said they would consider wearing them in the future. The market that may appear saturated is anything BUT that. And you have the opportunity to change the trajectory of your career, if you just take the leap.

For information on Invisible Bead Extensions® products or education, visit invisiblebeadextensions.com

IBE® ESSENTIALS

Photography // Temple Productions.

“34% OF WOMEN HAVE HAIR EXTENSIONS INCLUDED IN THEIR BEAUTY REGIMEN. 93% OF WOMEN SURVEYED NOT CURRENTLY WEARING HAIR EXTENSIONS SAID THEY WOULD CONSIDER WEARING THEM IN THE FUTURE. THE MARKET THAT MAY APPEAR SATURATED IS ANYTHING BUT THAT.”

1. IBE® Tail Comb With Measurements

Customize the proper sectioning for your guest by having a tail comb with measurement guidelines at your finger tips.

2. IBE® Edging Brush Keep your extension foundation exceptionally clean and precise using this tool.

3. IBE® Claw Clips Keep your guests hair fastened out of your working area by securing hair with a large claw clip.

4. IBE® Pliers

These pliers have been created for the extension artist who craves dexterity when installing a beaded foundation.

KEVIN NGUYEN (AKA @YAKUZABARBER) IS WAHL PROFESSIONAL’S USA TECHNICAL TRAINER AND A MEMBER OF THE WAHL FUTURE MAKERS™. KEVIN IS PASSIONATE ABOUT EDUCATION IN THE BARBERING INDUSTRY AND IS DETERMINED TO HELP BARBERS BECOME MORE PREPARED WHEN IT COMES TO WORKING WITH TEXTURED HAIR.

EDUCATION IS

It never stops for Yakuza Barber ! We caught up with Kevin while he was educating at an industry expo, just in between classes he was teaching. Kevin is not only an educator for Wahl Pro, but he can often be found teaching at his family’s barbering school in California. As California is a very diverse state, understanding how to cut and work with all hair textures is something that Kevin always instils in students.

“I like to use the four P’s: Preparation Prevents Poor Performance,” said Kevin. “Especially coming from an instructor background, you always want to be overprepared in any scenario. You need to understand all hair textures, techniques and hairstyles, because once you get into the barbershop, there is no one there to help you if you run into something you aren’t prepared for. Which ultimately means, you have to turn the client away, and that’s less money and fewer clients for you!

“For me, people always ask, do you ever get nervous when you are cutting for celebrities or famous people? And I can honestly say 'No,’ because I understand diversity in cutting—so no matter the hair style, the hair texture, the brief, I can tackle whatever comes my way.”

Kevin is one of the North American Wahl Pro Educators involved in the making of Wahl Pro’s global Future Makers™ Collection. A collection and series of step-by-steps featuring nine educators from eight countries, Future Makers™ celebrates industry-leading educators who are creating a positive change in the industry for the

next generation. I asked Kevin why he believes it was important for this collection to have a global reach and influence.

His response: “There are so many different trends in hair, coming from all over the world. And these trends are led by the diversity in fashion, culture, as well as hair texture. In the USA, we are very fortunate to have many diverse demographics of clients, so I have learned to work with all hair textures. But I think it is really valuable to know what the trends and techniques are in places like Japan, Australia, the UK, what all these other countries have to offer, and how we can bring it all together to create a unified Wahl Pro.”

“AS A BARBER, WAHL PRO GIVES ME A LOT OF CONFIDENCE IN MY TOOLS. I CAN APPROACH ANY CUT AND ANY TEXTURE, AND MY TOOLS ARE GOING TO BE POWERFUL, EFFICIENT AND EFFECTIVE, NO MATTER WHAT.”

The look that Kevin created for the collection is called the Modern High Top Fade. I asked Kevin a bit about the inspiration behind the cut, and why he felt it would be a valuable cut to breakdown into visual steps for barbers to learn from.

Kevin explained: “I wanted to do a cut with African American hair for this as I know that if some barbers aren’t used to working with that hair texture, they can be intimidated by it. So, I wanted to create a hairstyle that incorporated some longer length and shorter lengths and showed off some different ways to use Wahl Pro tools. And that’s when I remembered Tupac’s iconic hair in the movie Juice, with the precision line, and uneven flattop, so that’s where the inspiration came from.

“I thought that by breaking this look down in steps, it might help barbers who are hesitant to work with textured hair, or to get creative with it, because they don’t even know how to approach it. But by breaking it down in steps, and by educating cuts like this, hopefully this will help barbers break away from the fear of approaching textured styles. People distance themselves from the things they don’t understand and become afraid of them. Education helps take that distance away.”

Kevin uses the 5 Star Balding™ Clipper, 5 Star Cordless Gold Magic Clip®, the 5 Star Cordless Gold Detailer® Li and the 5 Star Vanish® to complete the cut. I asked him why this particular set of tools was best for the job:

“I chose the 5 Star Balding™ Clipper as a substitution for the Cordless Detailers , to give me that skin-tight blend. Then I used my Gold Magic Clip® because, well, it’s just my go-to. It is the number-one selling clipper in the world, so it just falls naturally into my hand. Then the Detailer® Li helped me to create that sharp precision line. And finally, the Vanish® Shaver helps to exceed that skin limit, where it really breaks down to that skin transition.”

Kevin is also one of the trusted barbers who help with innovation at Wahl Pro, often traveling to the Wahl HQ Innovation Centre in Illinois to test and trial prototypes.

This has given him a first-hand look into the time and effort the company takes toward ensuring that each of their tools is suitable and effective for all hair types: “Whenever there is a new prototype, I will travel to Sterling, Illinois, and Wahl will bring in models of every hair texture, from tight curls, thick hair, thin hair, and I will test the tool on every hair type, checking to see if it lacks efficiency or causes discomfort, and then will report back to the company. So, as a barber, Wahl Pro gives me a lot of confidence in my tools that I can approach any cut and any texture, and my tools are going to be powerful, efficient and effective, no matter what.”

The world’s most popular professional clipper is about to shine like never before. Wahl Professional’s Cordless Magic Clip® ultra-lightweight and now boasts a more powerful motor, staggertooth™ blades with new DLC coatings and a sleek gold finish.

WAHL PROFESSIONAL 5 STAR BALDING™ CLIPPER

With the ability to zero gap, the Wahl 5 Star Balding™ Clipper supplies a surgical close cut, making it perfect for quick, precise and effortless skin and bald fades. It is ideal to use for all hair types, textures and densities.

CHECK OUT HOW WAHL PRO FUTURE MAKER™, KEVIN NGUYEN BREAKS DOWN HOW HE CREATES THIS ICONIC HIGH TOP HIGH CUT STEP BY STEP. KEVIN SHARES HIS TIPS, TECHNIQUES, AND TOOL SELECTION TO SHOW HOW ANYONE CAN ACHIEVE THIS BALLER LOOK.

HOW TO CREATE: AFTER

STEP 3: Use the 5 Star Cordless Gold Magic Clip® with the lever open to create a 1” guideline or finger width above the demarcation line.

STEP 5: Move the lever halfway to continue blending the demarcation line.

STEP 7: With no guide comb and lever closed, cut free-form and continue blending in the line of demarcation at the parietal ridge to the top of the head.

STEP 9: Use the 5 Star Cordless Gold Magic Clip® with the lever closed, and begin to cut flyaways at the top of the head and create your shape.

STEP

Using the 5 Star Balding™ Clipper, start on the right side and one finger width from the ear establish the bald zone. Use a C-stroke motion and work to the back of the head. Repeat on left side.

STEP

Next, with the lever closed, blend the demarcation line using the 5 Star Cordless Gold Magic Clip®.

STEP

Attach the #1 Premium Guide Comb, with the lever closed, and continue blending the demarcation line.

STEP 8: Use the 5 Star Cordless Gold Detailer® Li to create a sharp lineup at the front hairline.

Step 10: Use the 5 Star Vanish® to remove any left over strays.

2:

4:

6:

A STROKE OF

NEVER INTENDING TO ENTER THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY, IT WAS THE LACK OF REPRESENTATION IN SESSION STYLING THAT MOTIVATED JALIA PETTIS TO BECOME ONE HERSELF. TODAY, SHE IS AN AWARD-WINNING MAKEUP AND HAIR ARTIST, EDUCATOR, AND SESSION STYLIST, AS WELL AS THE 2023 DENMAN STAGE STAR USA … AND THIS IS JUST THE BEGINNING.

Arizona-based makeup artist, hairstylist, and educator, has taken the industry by storm in the last few years, winning International Beauty Industry Award (2020-20210, NAHA Makeup Artist of the Year (2022), and Denman Stage Star USA (2023), and she is on her way to London this October to represent the USA and hopefully take home the Denman Global Stage Star award

But would you believe, Jalia never thought she would come near the beauty industry, mostly because of her deep-seated fear of the round brush?

Jalia explained: “I never had any desire to be in the beauty industry, ever. I used to have long, curly hair, and boy, I was terrified of a round brush. I had seen and heard so many horror stories of curly girls having someone try to blow out their hair, getting the round brush stuck, and having to cut it out. I just felt there were not a lot of things in the professional beauty industry made with Black girls in mind.”

So, Jalia went on to pursue a career in corporate America, working in human resource management and training and development for over 20 years. During this time Jalia also started her own business, 3Jay Productions, which initially started as a talent management company.

Jalia explained: “Most of my talent was models, musicians, and fashion designers, and about 95% of them were African American. The problem was their number one complaint was that they couldn’t find anyone to do their hair and makeup. I thought, this is South Carolina, surely there will be options! But we just couldn’t find anyone. So, that’s when I went, okay, I’ll do it.”

Now, Jalia explained that it wasn’t all smooth sailing when she started out. “I was glueing eyes shut when putting on lashes, and mismatching foundation. I was throwing colour everywhere like I was Picasso. I was doing all the wrong stuff.

“WHEN I WAS IN SCHOOL, THERE WAS DEFINITELY A LOT OF ROOM TO GROW WHEN IT CAME TO EDUCATION IN A DIVERSITY OF HAIR AND SKIN TONE. NONE OF MY TEACHERS WERE WOMEN OF COLOR. AND WHILE THEY DID INCLUDE SOME ELEMENTS OF EDUCATION WORKING ON TEXTURED HAIR, THERE WASN’T NEARLY ENOUGH.”

“I remember that my hands used to really, really, tremble. And I remember my prayer being ‘Okay, Lord, if this is what you want me to do, you’re going to have to take that away!’ And I remember it went away, and I was like, okay, I guess that means this is what I have to do!”

So, Jalia took the leap of faith, moved with her kids from South Carolina to Arizona, and left her corporate job to being a full-time business owner. She went to school, got her aesthetics license, and from there, she started working primarily onset as a makeup artist. But she got asked so frequently if she would do hair as well, so she went back to school for her hair license.

Jalia said: “That was another a-ha moment for me, girl, you could have been doing both this entire time! I told my instructors about my fears related to hair (especially the round brush) and I challenged myself to overcome and face those fears.”

Jalia did say that there were experiences during her time in education that proved that the cosmetology education system is not where it should be in terms of diversity, like the time her skin was nearly burned by a chemical peel, due to a lack of awareness of the effects of the product on more melanated skin. Or like the time they asked Jalia to bring her small daughter into class as a model, as there were no models with textured hair.

She said: “When I was in school, there was definitely a lot of room to grow when it came to education in a diversity of hair and skin tone. None of my teachers were women of color. And while they did include some elements of education working on textured hair, there wasn’t nearly enough.”

These days, when Jalia isn’t on set doing makeup and hair for TV or photoshoots, or jet setting for industry events, she can often be found in cosmetology schools, adding just a bit more representation to the curriculum, and hopefully encouraging more girls like Jalia that they are needed and valued in this industry and that they have the potential to go far!

What’s in Jalia’s Travel Bag?

Jalia is perhaps one of the most organized and meticulous artists we have met, and her session styling kit is no different. “I used to have a bag that I called Fat Max, and it weighed more than one of my kids. And my back is now paying for it. So, these days, it is worth being meticulous.

“My top tip when you are preparing for a shoot is to be prepared, but just pack what you need. Know what kind of job you are going to, and pack and repack based on the theme and the vibe of each job. This way, you are prepared, but you don’t need to pack the whole kitchen sink.” These brushes have become my four go-to’s for styling.

Denman D12 Tame ‘N’ Tease Three Row Comb

This is a go-to as a detangler and teaser.

Denman D92 Edge Tamer

This brush has super soft bristles brush, and is great for us curly girls to get your edges just right.

Denman D83 Paddle Brush

I use this for my flat wrap blow-dries (instead of a round brush!)

Denman D81M Style and Shine

This is what I used when I won the Stage Star Regions, and it is just a great go-to.

Photography // Keith Bryce

CONFIDENCE

DUSTY SCHLABACH (@CURLVISION) HAS A VISION FOR THE FUTURE OF THE INDUSTRY, AND THAT VISION IS CURLY! OWNER OF THAIRAPY – CURLY HAIR SALON IN SOUTH PASADENA, CA, DUSTY IS PASSIONATE ABOUT PROVIDING A PLACE IN THE WORLD FOR CURLS AND GIVING ALL CURLY CLIENTS A PLACE TO ACCESS HEALTHY, INFORMED HAIRCARE FOR THEIR LOCKS.

Dusty fell into hairdressing at a young age, or as he explained it: “I cut hair pirate style.” He explained: “I was just cutting the hair of my friends and peers, and I was just learning as I went. I didn’t even know you should be wetting hair down or anything like that. I was just working with kitchen scissors, working with the hair just as it was, embracing the natural texture of the hair. And then I just evolved from there. I realized how few stylists were out there that specialized in curls, and I saw there was a real need for it. I had always preferred working on natural texture anyways, so I decided to just lean into it, get my license, and open a salon dedicated to curls, and it just took off.”

Dusty’s passion for inclusive texture comes with a critical view of the beauty industry and how it often views diversity. He said: “To be honest, I think that the beauty industry is bullshit. I think that

Photography // @capturingheart

the key to the current beauty industry's success is to make people unhappy, unappreciative, and ungrateful for what they have naturally. Telling women that what they have is wrong, so that they can sell them something to fix the thing that's wrong. And I hate that.

“My whole foundation that I stand on is, whatever is grown naturally, as long as it is healthy and it’s got a decent cut on it with a good shape for the person based on their density, texture, and style, they're never going to be more beautiful than that. So, that is what makes me passionate, and I want everybody to be able to lean into whatever their texture is, straight to curly.”

I asked Dusty to tell us a bit about the fundamentals of cutting curls, and how the technique differs. He said: “'Fundamental’ is the key word in that question. There are differences, but in our salon, we cut everything dry. We don't manipulate the texture. So, the principles are all the same. However, there are different things that I could do on wavy hair that I would never do on curly hair, and vice versa. So yes, there are differences in how I'm going to approach layering and shaping based on whether the hair is wavy to curly, and curly to super curly.” Haircutting is not a one-size-fits-all thing!

When opening a curl-focused salon, Dusty said that he struggled to find curl experts to fill it. He said: “There is a severe lack of education surrounding curly hair in hair schools. Often, academies will say they offer it, but if I talk to any student, they’ll be like, ‘Oh we just treated the hair the same.’ Which to me says, they’re not trained! But I had a team of great hairdressers I was working with, and while to begin with I was the only curl expert, they all eventually saw the need to level up their curl cutting skills, and I taught them everything I know. From there, I have brought on many assistants and trained them to work with all hair textures, and now they are on the floor, fully booked two months in advance, absolutely killing it.”

What brands are they all about at Thairapy? Dusty said: “My go-to is Innersense Organic Beauty. I love what is not in their bottles and what they refuse to ever have in their bottles. People might want to get into the science and ingredients list, and all that stuff, but I have seen thousands and thousands of heads,

with all different hair types, all with different histories with products, and the people that have exclusively used Innersense for a short period, simply have the best hair. It is, by far, superior in that realm. It also stands the test of time, because I have clients that have been on it for years and years, and it remains to be their absolute favorite, and my favorite too.”

Thairapy also offers hair extension services using Great Lengths extensions. I asked Dusty what advice he has on approaching extensions when it comes to textured hair. He said: “There are many methods of applications, and some are better than others for hair health. My personal favorite application method is Keratin bonds if the curl pattern can be matched. Sourcing hair for a specific curl type can be very

consultations in the salon. You can’t always find the perfect match for every curl pattern, and it is not always a safe and healthy option for a client, so there are times when we will have to turn clients away from extensions as an option. You also need to ensure that the client is going to take the time and care to look after their hair with the right products and practices, because that can cause complications.”

Dusty is passionate about sharing his knowledge in the world of natural hair and curls. “I offer an affordable subscription on my Instagram to show people a bit about the products that we use as well as how to use them. We are starting to get into how to cut, and how not to cut as well. So, we will be developing our education in the future and offering some classes too.

“Aside from the fact that there aren’t enough curl experts out there, it is hard to figure out where to find the ones that are equipped and qualified. So, I offer a service called curlmaps.com, which is a website where I can round up anyone who can handle curly textures and want to get that out there to the world so that the people with curly hair can find a professional near them.”

“MY GO-TO IS INNERSENSE ORGANIC BEAUTY. I LOVE WHAT IS NOT IN THEIR BOTTLES AND WHAT THEY REFUSE TO EVER HAVE IN THEIR BOTTLES.”

THE CLIPPER

WE SPOKE TO STORMI KELLEY ABOUT HER CAREER TRANSFORMATION FROM COSMETOLOGIST TO MASTER BARBER. SHE TOLD US WHY USING ANDIS CLIPPERS TO CUT LONGER HAIR HELPS BOOST CREATIVITY, CLIENT SATISFACTION, AND EFFICIENCY IN THE SALON AND ONSTAGE.

Common knowledge dictates that scissors are for cutting long hair and clippers are for fades. But that is no more! The modern salon stylist is adapting their skillset to include motorised tools, enhancing their repertoire and making them a more desirable candidate for clients and brands alike. Intertwining techniques from the hairdressing world and the

barbering world is the new norm – and Stormi Kelley is the champion.

Stormi started her career as a cosmetologist but quickly realized a talent for hairstyling. She naturally moved into education onstage and in academies when she joined Andis as their Global Educator. She also works with the Moroccanoil Artistic Team and is part of the Walk In Salon OKC team.

Photography // Angel Raws

This beauty powerhouse told us why it is essential to respect the classic but also embrace the contemporary. This is how professionals will thrive!

Over to you, Stormi: “As stylists, we celebrate the innovation of color and products without question. Why can’t it be the same for cutting? It would be smart to incorporate using clippers because the future blending of hairdressing and barbering is already here, it’s happening now. Why wait, then have to play catch up later?”

What longer hairstyles would Stormi use clippers to create? “I would use clippers to execute any type of haircut to be honest, from bobs, shags, and heavily curled mullets to pixies and long layers with face framing... It’s all the same to me!” she laughed. What are the practical benefits of using the clipper as a styling tool? “The benefits of using a clipper vs a scissor is time. It is easier to control as well and provides better ergonomics. Think about how many times you have to open and close a shear to create a simple base line – the motion of a clipper does this in seconds.

"Furthermore, when cutting with a clipper, you’re able to keep your wrist in a more stable and steady position, allowing the motor to do the work, which is less wear and tear on your wrist. Not only the efficiency and better ergonomics they provide, but the strength in the shape created by a clipper is unparalleled by any other tool.”

A barber needs ultimate efficiency from their tools, whether working in the barbershop, backstage at a gig, in front of the camera, or educating onstage. They need speed and precision to maximize their time with every client, boosting their bottom line and enhancing client retention rates. If you provide swift, top-quality services, people will always come back to your chair.

From a business perspective, we wondered: does cutting longer styles with clippers free up more time? Subsequently making it easier to fit more clients in and ultimately bringing in more money?

Stormi explained: “Working with a clipper is a more efficient way to cut – you're guaranteed precision and luxury work. That ultimately frees up time for stylists to upgrade services, such as a color service or conditioning treatment. Using a clipper lets you be more effective with your time, working smarter not harder.” What about platform educating?

How does working with clippers on longer cuts enhance Stormi's work onstage? “We're constantly innovating the clipper , whether that's the blade, handle, or motor. As a result, I’m forced to elevate

CUTTING HAIR, THE ANDIS WAY

We found out what Andis tools Stormi uses to create her finest work.

QWhat Andis tools do you use to cut longer hair? Why?

AOnce I joined Andis as a Global Educator, I spent the entire first year testing every tool they had on longer hair, getting to know each clipper individually. Now, I can confidently tell you that with the proper techniques, they all can be used on longer lengths.

My go-to is the Andis Revite Cordless Clipper. It’s a small, lightweight, removable blade clipper that I can easily interchange with a fade blade or a taper blade. I like to create shape using the fade blade because the thin teeth are close together, meaning it cuts on contact, like a straight scissor. I use the taper blade for detailing, softening, and removing weight. The teeth have more space in between so it’s a softer cut, like a texture shear.

QHow does a client’s hair texture impact your choice of tool?

AWhen it comes to differentiating which clipper to use for what texture, I still use the Andis Revite Cordless Clipper. The most important factor is the density, which can be controlled by cutting wet vs dry. Such as kinky hair – if a strong, firm shape is desired, I would cut dry using the fade blade. If a strong disheveled shape is desired, I would cut wet using the fade blade. The bigger issue would be if the hair has been color treated or lightened, which requires a different approach.

my education to work to parallel with it. Using clippers on stage allows me to transform the stigma that clippers only execute straight lines. Using them on long hair shows their versatility in real time. Also as a cosmetologist, working alongside barbers, I understand their language and am able to translate that for the stylist.”

There’s an extra creative freedom that comes with using clippers for long cuts, Stormi told us, which expands your client pool and opens more business for your shop. This master hairstylist continued: “These techniques give me more freedom by creating a space for me to talk more about my passion for haircutting, education, and what I do outside the salon. Guests see it and become curios and inquisitive. “Most often, clients find the use of clippers as a hairdressing tool kind of strange or unrealistic – until they experience it. My clients become so ecstatic and proud when they see how I've used it! They brag to everyone they know!”

Stormi told us that she is passionate about cutting hair using clippers in an unconventional way because it allows her to tap into a creative space that wasn’t always accessible to her. Here’s more: “Even though it’s my own creative mind, there’s something so satisfying about using a ‘machine’ with the sound and feel of the motor, in an unruly fashion to create something soft and beautiful.”

Find Stormi on Instagram as @juststormi

“EVEN THOUGH IT’S MY OWN CREATIVE MIND, THERE’S SOMETHING SO SATISFYING ABOUT USING A ‘MACHINE’ IN AN UNRULY FASHION - WITH THE SOUND AND FEEL OF THE MOTOR- TO CREATE SOMETHING SOFT AND BEAUTIFUL.”

DIONNE SMITH (@DIONNESMITHHAIR) IS A UK-BASED CELEBRITY HAIR ARTIST, WITH A REFINED ABILITY TO MAKE EVERY CLIENT LOOK POWERFUL AND BEAUTIFUL, WHETHER THEY’RE ON THE RED CARPET OR IN FRONT OF THE CAMERA.

DIONNE IS OUR BRAIDING EXPERT FOR THIS FEATURE AND TELLS US HOW TO MAKE THEM RED CARPET-PROOF.

Little

more.

asked this hair powerhouse how she built her career in celebrity styling. “It all began when I started styling my younger sisters’ hair from a young age, then working on clients in my community as a side hobby. Eventually, I realized I can do this full time. From that moment, my career just blossomed.”

It was actually a client who funded Dionne’s first salon, which allowed her to learn more about the industry and easily manage clients whilst nurturing her skills for textured hair. “Soon after, I went freelance and became the Dionne Smith you know of today.” Dionne told us that she prides herself on designing intricate braided hairstyles. “I aim to challenge the norm in textured hair and show there’s no limit to styling Afro hair. I’m always drawing inspiration from historical styles and adding my signature to it.”

We know that celebs have crazy lifestyles and often want different styles for every event or red carpet – and they can have multiple events per month! But protective styles like braids normally stay in for about six to eight weeks. So, we asked Dionne how she would style the braids to make them look different. “The hairstyles curated must complement their clothes and makeup. Once that’s

determined, I start brainstorming ideas on how to elevate the already-made hairstyle. When the hair is already braided, I explore elements that can be moved around, recreated, enhanced. External factors such as subtle beads or strings can make it look different too! Planning ahead is key.”

What does Dionne do to ensure that braids look immaculate on the red carpet and on camera?

“Braids must be tight enough to look neat and tidy, but not too tight! You must be careful to avoid adding pressure to their scalp – it needs to be comfortable enough for them to go about their day and strut that red carpet. Mousses are a great finishing product. I generally apply this to the braids and set with a blowdryer or hooded hair dryer and it finishes the look perfectly! I can’t live without my hair pins. They hold everything in place and can easily be removed.”

We got some essential advice on prepping the scalp and natural hair for braiding. “Use a cleansing shampoo that works depending on the hair type and its needs. I recommend sulphate-free products containing natural oils and shea butter. Follow with a nourishing/hydrating shampoo to moisturize, soften, and condition. We must not forget deep conditioning your strands for 15-20 mins – once again, look for ingredients that work for your client. Sectioning the hair and detangling from ends to roots keeps breakage at bay and releases knots too. Once done, your client is ready to get braided!”

It can be difficult to know which brands actually provide the quality you need to execute the coolest and most impressive looks whilst ensuring hair and scalp health. Dionne gave some insight: “At the moment, the brands I use to achieve maximum care are a mixture of Pantene Gold Ouai Black Up and Gummy. Once a brand understands the importance of healthy hair and works hard to offer accessible products, they’ve got my support – and that’s why I love these brands.”

Which products are her go-tos? “Pantene Gold Series Moisture Boost Shampoo & Conditioner –the smell is just divine. Ouai Leave-In Conditioner because it’s super hydrating and doubles up as a heat protectant. Then we have the blackUp Oil Elixir, then Gummy for edges and to keep them laid!

“Cantu Edges Baby Hair Styler is my go-to for sculpting edges and taming flyaways. I use this to gently design and lay edges. It’s a 2-in-1 brush, so perfect for any up-do hairstyles – e.g., bantu knots and ponytails.”

Finally, how does Dionne keep her clients happy and energized throughout long braiding sessions? “Good vibes and energy! Long braiding sessions can be tiring (I don’t tend to do these kinds of sessions very often) but I try to make them as comfortable as possible and engage in conversations. Creating an amusing space never fails either!”

BRAIDING HAIR

Dionne told us which braiding hair types are best to use for which styles.

1. Kanekalon – Single braids, cornrows, twists.

2. Synthetic - Single braids, cornrows, twists, crochet.

3. Toyokalon - Single braids, cornrows, twists, crochet, full hair weaves.

4. Spectra - Single braids, cornrows, twists.

5. Afrelle - Single braids, cornrows, twists.

Photography // MCMLDN

Dionne boasts an enviable client list that includes Bridgerton’s Golda Rosheuvel, Heartstopper’s Corinna Brown, Leigh-Anne Pinnock of

Mix, Teyonah Parris of The Marvels and many

We

“CANTU’S EDGES BABY HAIR STYLER IS MY GOTO TOOL FOR SCULPTING EDGES AND TAMING FLYAWAYS. I USE THIS TO GENTLY DESIGN AND LAY EDGES. IT’S A 2-IN-1 BRUSH, SO PERFECT FOR ANY UP-DO HAIRSTYLES – E.G. BANTU KNOTS AND PONYTAILS.”

TYPE 1 // STRAIGHT TYPE 2 // WAVY TYPE 3 // CURLY TYPE 4 // COILY

ANDIS CERAMIC REPLACEMENT BLADES

In response to demand from barbers and stylists around the world, Andis Company has expanded its Professional Ceramic Blade Line to include replacement blades for its most iconic clippers and trimmers. Ceramic blades run 75% cooler, offer better rust and corrosion resistance and have a longer-lasting edge than traditional stainless-steel blades.

Ceramic replacement blades for the Master® Cordless Li Clipper include upper and lower blades with a replacement yoke with two types for the ML model (01810) and the MLC model (05050). For the Cordless T-Outliner® Li, blade sets (04590) include a ceramic cutter and steel lower blade with replacement yoke which is a perfect fit for the Cordless T-Outliner Li Trimmer Model: ORL, while the GTO, GTX, GO and GI models benefit from blade sets (04720) that feature a ceramic cutter and steel lower blade. andis.com

CURLISTO FRIZ FREE SERUM

Proprietary Curlplex Technology features powerful ingredients such as biotin, plant oils and peptides, Curlplex is specially formulated to rebond, replenish, protect, strengthen, and nourish all textured hair.

$33.00 // curlisto.com

WAHL PROFESSIONAL POWER STATION ™

This weighted power station offers three full charges for the cordless clippers, trimmers or shavers with one cord. Six tool inserts means you can mix any combination of tools to charge – all in one space-saving design.

$199.00 // wahlpro.com

TEXTURE THEORY LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER

The perfect multi-use product for conditioning, detangling, and hydrating curly hairy on any day. To create its moisturizing blend, we use beneficial ingredients to help aid in conditioning and volume.

texturetheory.com

BUILDING BONDS

BOND BUILDING REVOLUTIONIZED THE INDUSTRY IN 2014 WITH THE LAUNCH OF THE ORIGINAL BOND BUILDER, OLAPLEX . DISRUPTING THE INDUSTRY WITH THIS TYPE OF INNOVATION COMES WITH ITS SHARE OF QUESTIONS, CAUTIOUS RESERVATIONS, AND EVEN A COPYCAT…OR TWO. BUT OLAPLEX ISN’T JUST A “HAIR PRODUCT”. THIS INVENTION SINGLE HANDEDLY CHANGED OUR INDUSTRY STANDARD OF HAIR HEALTH.

Prior to OLAPLEX, the only true repair for damaged hair was a haircut. Going into chemical services, you knew the risks. Should that risk become reality, options were extremely limited. Nothing on the market could truly repair the hair on a molecular level. Professionals yearned for a world where we could offer insurance for the hair – even if we didn’t know it at the time. The innovators at OLAPLEX did, and that is why OLAPLEX’s patented technology, BisAminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, was born. By this point, you’ve likely heard of bond builders and that they “make your hair healthy”. But how does this molecular technology work?

OLAPLEX IS NOT A TREND, IT’S A REVOLUTION Coily, Curly, Wavy, Straight. Fine, Coarse, Thin, Dense. Blonde, Grey, Brunette, Redhead.

EVERY head of hair is different. As unique as every head of hair is, there's one thing that is a commonality amongst us all: hair bonds. There are three main types: Salt Bonds and Hydrogen Bonds are also known as physical bonds and are the weakest bonds. The third bond is the Disulfide Bond, which is a chemical bond, and the strongest of the three. This stabilizes protein chains and contributes to the overall elasticity of the hair. Disulfide bonds are permanent bonds and cannot be broken by water. Properly paired bonds form the strength, stability, and structure of the hair. When chemical, heat, mechanical or environmental damage occurs, disulfide bonds break, leading to damage that affects disulfide bonds throughout the entire hair fiber.

THE INVENTION

OLAPLEX invented and patented its technology, Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, to relink broken disulfide bonds on a molecular level. When used as a treatment, it relinks the broken bonds, restoring hair health. When used with chemical services, OLAPLEX mitigates the damage that would be inflicted during the services. Once all the hair bonds are intact and in alignment, you have healthy, beautiful, shiny hair. Not only did OLAPLEX create a product capable of molecular repair, they simultaneously created a new category in haircare: “Bond Building”. Hair that is not in its healthiest state can show signs of rapid color fading, will often be frizzier, tangled, dry and the color can appear flat and lackluster. Many professionals offer OLAPLEX salon services to treat hair health needs. You can also work with your Professional to build the perfect at-home OLAPLEX hair care routine for your hair needs.

BONDS OF COMMUNITY

Bond Building doesn’t stop there for OLAPLEX, though. There is another set of bonds that are a high priority for OLAPLEX: the bonds of people. The bonds between hairdressers, and the bonds between hairdressers and our clients. The Professional is at the heart of everything we do. OLAPLEX employs many industry Professionals who understand the importance of transparent education, accessibility, support, free education, mentorship, and community. We provide a myriad of education options, no-cost tools available for all Professionals, monthly classes, OLAPLEX Certification, Pro exclusive social & networking groups in English and Spanish, and more! OLAPLEX is continuously improving and expanding our offerings for Professionals. OLAPLEX truly encourages feedback and does listen. When we received word that OLAPLEX Bond Smoother was hard to get out of the original packaging, we made the switch to an airless pump. We are passionate about our offerings and encourage all levels of feedback!

Photography // Alexi Lubomirski

UNBREAKABLE BLONDES

N°.4P + N°.5P

The system for brighter stronger blondes

EXT END ING

POSSIBILITIES

WE TELL YOU EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT ACHIEVING THE PERFECT INSTALL. WE ALSO LOOK AT WHAT METHODS ARE OUT THERE AND HOW TO DECIDE WHICH IS BEST FOR YOUR CLIENT.

STORIES FROM CELEB STYLISTS AND EXPERT ADVICE GUARANTEED!

Mè CHE

HOLLYWOOD WORTHY EXTENSIONS

MÈCHE SALON IS LOS ANGELES' PREMIER FULL-SERVICES SALON, BRINGING THE FINEST EXTENSIONS, CUTS, AND COLOR TO HOLLYWOOD'S MOST FAMOUS FACES. WE SPOKE TO MÈCHE'S CELEBRITY

EXTENSIONIST ALEX PARDOE TO FIND OUT WHAT IT'S LIKE WORKING WITH THE BIGGEST NAMES IN SHOWBIZ, AND WHY HE USES K-TIPS TO EXECUTE HIS FINEST EXTENSIONS WORK.

Legendary stylists Tracy Cunningham and Neil Weisberg cite 'the casual glamour of Los Angeles' as their motivating factor behind opening what is now one of LA's most-loved salons to the stars.

Mèche Salon houses expert stylists, colorists, and extensionists in a contemporary space, bringing the finest services to some of the biggest names in entertainment, from Megan Fox to Margo Robbie. The salon interior itself channels California’s quintessential luxe yet relaxed vibe, with valet services, super-personalized consultations, and intimate layout embodying what it means to be a star in 2023. We wanted a look inside this impressive space, where hair dreams are made into reality. We spoke to Alex Pardoe, one of Mèche's top extensionists, to find out what it's like working in such an esteemed salon, serving the most esteemed clients.

"Mèche salon is known for its spectacular color work and luxe wearable cuts," Alex told us, "Which is why it's such a celebrity magnet. They know they're going to be in the greatest hands in the industry and guaranteed the perfect look every time."

Every stylist at Mèche is departmentalized – you either cut or you color. "That way, no matter who a client sees there, they're getting an expert in their field," Alex explained. "I'll do a client's extensions, Tracy might do their color and Buddy will cut their hair. Not only does this maximize our skillsets, it also keeps everything in-house, meaning the Mèche name is synonymous with a fullly-rounded, bespoke service." How does the team ensure that every visit to Mèche is a high-class one? Alex said: "First of all, we have valets! The client's car will be valeted before they're greeted by a reservationist, who will supply a robe. They'll lead clients to our chairs and as soon as they sit down, we'll ask if they want anything to drink – we stock every refreshment you can think of to prove that nothing is off limits when it comes to client comfort. We want every client to feel as relaxed as humanly possible!" Alex continued: "What I pride myself on is having my clients come back to me and say, 'This is the most comfortable set of extensions I've ever had' AND it's a huge bonus when they tell us that Mèche gave them the most comfortable service experience!" 

OK, we want to know all about the extensions!

First, we asked how Alex achieves Hollywood-worthy installs? "Super thorough consultations are vital to the bespoke extensions service. You never want to get into the space of just cutting some wefts and sticking them in their roots."

How does Alex ensure client comfort out of the chair as well as in it? "When I'm dropping in a bond, or if I'm filling in a weft, I apply my extensions like they've already been grown out for about a week. This avoids tension headaches and relieves any tugging of excess weight on the client’s scalp."

Depending on hair density, Alex may take extra time to drop the extension down an extra eighth of an inch away from the scalp just for comfort.

He specializes in K-tips – we asked him why: "K-tips have become my thing because, if applied correctly, they’re invisible and natural in the hair. My clients, who are often on-screen or on set, look for invisible, undetectable installs and K-tips allow me to do that. Pair those with thorough color and texture matching, and you have yourself a luxe install!”

The extensionist continued: “I do however use wefts for my girls with very dense, thick hair. I use them on some of my finer hair clients to boost volume as well. It’s important to have an array of skills so you aren’t alienating any potential clients.”

What’s the key to the perfect install? “Ultimately, you just need to take every precaution that you can to make sure that clients have a wonderful experience with you. Make sure your mindset is where it needs to be and commit to becoming the best extensionist you possibly can be. It’s important to keep in the back of your mind that just because you're certified does not mean you're the expert. Always be open to changes and to learning!" •

Find Alex on Instagram as @alexpardashian

HOW LONG SHOULD AN INSTALL REALLY LAST?

"My biggest pet peeve is that some extensions companies perpetuate this idea that installs can last up to six months. I genuinely believe that it's no longer a healthy attachment after three months.

"The science behind the longevity of extensions correlates with the fact that everyone sheds an average of 75 to 100 strands of hair per day. It doesn't make sense to assume that extension hair

can stay in for such extended periods of time when our own hair sheds at such an incredible rate.

"The clients won’t have enough hair after three months to maintain a truly seamless and healthy attachment because it’s no longer that one to one weight ratio. My advice to you: never leave in for more than four months – MAXIMUM!"

AFTERCARE ESSENTIALS

What to give your clients to ensure health between appointments.

“My favourite brush that I send home with everybody is the Sheila Stotts Brush. She makes incredible quality tools for extensions that glide right over the bonds to detangle.

"Aftercare-wise, I send my girls home with the Global Milbon MOISTURE Shampoo and treatment . It keeps extension hair really soft and gorgeous, and it keeps natural hair just as healthy in between the extensions as well. I want to make sure that when clients come in to get their extensions removed, their hair is the same - if not better - than when you saw me the first time."

“SUPER THOROUGH CONSULTATIONS ARE VITAL TO THE BESPOKE EXTENSIONS PROCESS, NO MATTER WHETHER THAT CLIENT IS NEW OR HAS BEEN WITH ME FOR YEARS. WE'LL COVER: HOW WAS THE TEXTURE OF THEIR LAST SET? DO THEY WANT TO TRY MORE WAVES? DO THEY LIKE THE COLORS? AS THE STYLIST, EVERY MOVE SHOULD BE STRATEGIC.”

“K-TIPS HAVE BECOME MY THING BECAUSE, IF APPLIED CORRECTLY, THEY’RE INVISIBLE AND NATURAL IN THE HAIR. MY CLIENTS, WHO ARE OFTEN ON-SCREEN OR ON SET, LOOK FOR INVISIBLE, UNDETECTABLE INSTALLS AND K-TIPS ALLOW ME TO DO THAT.”

EXTENSIONS

THE BLÚ WAY

CAITLIN MEEHAN IS AN INTERNATIONALLY RECOGNIZED EXTENSIONS EDUCATOR, KNOWN FOR CO-CREATING THE BELLAMI

PRO

Blú Smart Tools is a brand born out of necessity, says Caitlin Meehan, Founder of the widely growing premium extension tool line. “I have been an extension specialist since I was 17 and never worked with an assistant. I always said, ‘my preparation is my assistant’, meaning I did all my prep work the day before the appointment. Tools like our pre-strung beads and organizing tray aids the stylist in ways an assistant would, helping the stylist work more efficiently.

“I try to make every decision for Blú with the stylist in mind, most times sacrificing whatever is needed internally as a company to service the stylist the way I would have wanted when I was behind the chair.”

We wanted to look at the power of Blú from the salon owner’s perspective. “Our tools optimize the stylist’s time behind the chair, giving them space to see more clients per day, thus bringing financial value to the business owner, while also providing the same – if not higher – caliber of work.” What about the clients? “I have always been dedicated to making every install a healthy and comfortable one – and the functionality of Blu’s tools does not fall short of that.

“Subpar tools can have a massive effect on the health of natural hair, whether it be temperature

control of the fusion tool, or even down to the diameter of silicone inside the weft beads. All of our tools are constructed with both stylist and client experience at the forefront.”

Caitlin continued: “Happy clients can help boost your client pool by spreading positive word of mouth. This brings more people into your chair, in turn boosting revenue and leading to financial freedom. It’s a chain effect!”

Caitlin believes education is key when it comes to achieving the perfect install. “I have educated for over a decade, writing curriculums for some of the biggest brands that stylists use today. If I had one crucial piece of advice for upcoming extensionists, it would be to protect your body. I’m particular about hand placement, body positioning, and effective use of proper tools to protect extensionist’s bodies over long hours spent behind the chair.”

What are the top three Blú tools that stylists rave about? Caitlin said: “Firstly, our Pre-Strung Beads! Everyone loves not having to waste 10-15 minutes loading a loop tool.

“Secondly, our Smart Organizing Tray. A lot of stylists have their clients pass them the hair, which in our opinion, is dated and unprofessional. Others

struggle to work with a traditional tray, which leads to a mess of hair. This tray is a true game changer!

“The third fluctuates between our Pro Pliers (which have a tapered tip for a seamless zero-degree closure) and our Sectioning Rings, which mean you never have to pick up a tail comb again.

“My personal favorites, though, are our new PreStrung Weightless Weft Beads, which lay flatter in the hair making for much more comfortable and discrete wear. These will launch in the next few weeks, but our group of board member stylists have said they will never reach for any other beads again. They told us that clients are stunned because they can’t feel them in their hair.”

We wanted to end by asking Caitlin what she thought the most overlooked product was. She revealed: “I personally love our Bead Case. I stock up on so many beads, so this case has become my must-have. It can hold up to 100 strings of beads, is beautifully crafted, and very easily stored!”

Caitlin’s Instagram is @extensionologist and you can find Blú Smart Tools as @blusmarttools

Is The Price Right?

1. Charge Your Worth

“Prices for extensions can fluctuate drastically. Remember to charge your worth. Don’t ever use location as an excuse not to charge what your level of education and skill should represent. Focus on finding your dream clientele who would be happy to pay your worth.”

2. Do Not Justify Your Prices

“When teaching, I see stylists tell clients that it’s X amount for labor and X amount for the hair, which opens opportunities for clients to negotiate the price. The client should only hear one price. When doing color, you would never hear a stylist say, ‘Okay, today it is going to cost $20 for your developer and $10 per ounce of color we used’ etc. They just say, ‘Your total for today’s service is $100’. We need to keep the same mentality for extensions work.”

3. Raise Your Prices!

“In most industries, it’s formality to receive a raise once a year. Don’t be afraid to raise your prices, you should make your clients accustomed to an annual price increase.”

“HAVING CLEANER, MORE PRECISE WORK, WHILE SAVING TIME BEHIND THE CHAIR, HELPS A BUSINESS OWNER MAKE MORE MONEY IN A SHORTER PERIOD OF TIME WHILE PROVIDING THE SAME - IF NOT BETTER – CALIBER OF WORK.”

HAIR

CURRICULUM. SHE’S FOUNDER OF PREMIUM EXTENSIONS TOOLS BRAND BLÚ SMART TOOLS AND TOLD US ABOUT THE BUSINESS OF EXTENSIONS –HOW TO BOOST EFFICIENCY AND MAKE MORE MONEY.

Photography // Patrick Garcia @isthatpat

Photography // Caitlin Meehan @extensionologist

“There are so many reasons a client may be interested in extensions! They are used for length, volume, adding dimensional color, thinning hair or maybe just for fun! Hey, your client might not even know extensions are an option to fix their “hair struggle” but as a stylist, it’s our job to tell our clients what they need,” said Baelee.

Asking questions during consultation is the key to getting down to your clients problems, and

finding the right solution and fit for them. Baelee said: “Always ask lots of questions! I think the most important opening question is ‘Have you worn extensions before?’ This really starts the conversation. From here finding out, ‘What did you like and dislike about the method?’ As a stylist, listening to cue words or phrases that would indicate whether a single strand or weft method would be best.”

Baelee is a Donna Bella girl, all the way. She said: “I love Donna Bella hair extensions for many reasons! Quality of the hair, efficient tools, trending colors and great customer service!”

Donna Bella also a wide variety of application styles. So, we went through their most-popular applications to break down why and when they are best suited.

EVER FELT CONFUSED OR OVERWHELMED BY EXTENSION APPLICATION OPTIONS? NOT SURE WHAT IS BEST IN CERTAIN SCENARIOS? MASTER EDUCATOR FOR DONNA BELLA HAIR EXTENSIONS , BAELEE REITER (@INBAELEESCHAIR ) SHARES HER TIPS FOR FINDING THE BEST FIT FOR YOUR CLIENTS.

Photography // @inbaeleeschair

“I LOVE DONNA BELLA HAIR EXTENSIONS FOR MANY REASONS! QUALITY OF THE HAIR, EFFICIENT TOOLS, TRENDING COLORS AND GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE!”

GREAT FOR ADDING VOLUME:

Weft Type Methods

Tape-In

• P re-taped wefts attach to hair using damage-free adhesive.

• A more budget friendly option for your clients wanting a service that packs a punch.

GREAT FOR ADDING 360 DEGREE

MOVEMENT:

Bead Methods

• N eed to be maintained every 8 weeks or so.

• Single stranded methods, installed with bead, so no adhesive required.

• Quick install, especially now with the Donna Bella pre-loaded loop tool!

Flat Tip

• Feature wider strands that lay flat against the head.

GREAT FOR ALL HAIR TYPES, INCLUDING FINE HAIR: NATURAL FUSION METHOD

Kera-Link

• Strand-by-strand method installed with melting connector.

• Very customizable because you can cut the bond down very small for micro bonding.

I-Link

• One of Donna Bella’s most popular methods.

• Very subtle application.

• Ideal for the client who doesn’t want to come into the salon as often, as they can last 3-4 months.

• Watch Donna Bella’s online Keralink certification.

• Generally on the higher end of the price point.

Hybrid Weft

• Sew in method combining hand tied and machine bonded wefts.

• Don’t require any adhesives or removers for the application.

GREAT FOR SPECIAL OCCASION AND BRIDAL HAIR:

Ready-to-wear methods:

• Having ready to wear options on hand is great if you are doing bridal or special occasion hair, as there is no commitment to the client, and they can just keep the extension pieces after their big day to use again!

Clip-Ins

• Ideal for adding volume and texture for up-dos hairstyles.

• Can easily be removed and repositioned.

• Clip holds in place, making up-styling easier.

Halo

• Super-fast and easy – takes less than a minute to install.

• Great for fragile hair.

• Really comfortable to wear all day.

TEACHING KINDNESS

FOUNDER, CREATOR, AND CEO, LACY GADEGAARD-WEST FIRST LAUNCHED LACED HAIR EXTENSIONS THIRTEEN YEARS AGO AND HAS CONTINUED TO GROW AND EVOLVE. NOT ONLY DO THEY PRIDE THEMSELVES ON CREATING LUXURY EXTENSION PRODUCTS BUT THEY ALSO OFFER BOTH IN-PERSON AND DIGITAL EDUCATION FOR THE PROFESSIONAL INDUSTRY.

Founded by a stylist, for stylists, Laced Hair is committed to elevating and evolving the industry with not only industry-leading extension products but best-in-class- education too. Rooted in quality, community, and purpose, Lacy is passionate about providing accessible, quality education in hair extensions for everyone, and proving that the hair extension world can be a kind, welcoming, and noncompetitive place, accepting for all.

She said: “As a stylist, I know education is the foundation of every stylist’s business. Whether it's technical or business focused, our industry is constantly evolving, and it's important for salon owners and stylists to stay up to speed on the latest education trends.”

There are many ways to access education in this industry, but a lot of the streams and subscriptions to education are expensive and out of reach for stylists and business owners.

For Lacy, who knows what it is like to be in that position, she wanted her brand's education to be accessible and within reach. She said: “Education doesn’t need to be an exclusive club. I think a lot of people feel pressure to invest in expensive classes or subscriptions to elevate their businesses. But I want to show that doesn’t have to be the case. We want to offer quality extension education that is for everyone. We are an all-inclusive brand. Everyone can sit with us.”

Another thing that Lacy was passionate about when designing the curriculum for Lac[ED] Academy, was to cover the full spectrum of extension methods. She said: “Hair extensions are not one-size-fits-all; if you were only educated in one method, you could be alienating certain clients, or not have the ability to mix and match based on their unique hair. So that’s why we have classes in all of our methods: Keratin I-Tip, TapeIns, Interlaced Wefts, and the OG Wefts.”

Lac[ED] also offers classes and certifications both digitally and in person. With the dedicated Lac[ED] education team spanning all across the country and into Canada, classes and certification courses are constantly popping up in various locations. In-person, one-to-one training is also offered in various cities across the country if a stylist wants a more intimate learning environment. Lacy knows that not everyone can travel to attend in-person certifications, so she worked to make it as easy as possible to get certified in all methods online.

Lacy speaks so highly of the Lac[ED] education team that has grown, and is growing, since the beginning of the brand. She said: “When I started Laced, it was great because as a hairdresser with 20 years of experience, I was able to create the curriculum and offer education myself to stylists all around the country, but as the company grew, I needed to grow the education team too.

“We are a growing team, and my vision would be to have educators in even more parts of the world. So, we are always on the lookout for

Photography // Laced Hair Extensions

“WE JUST REALLY BELIEVE IT'S IMPORTANT TO SUPPORT THE COMMUNITY THAT WE LOVE SO MUCH WITH THE HIGHEST QUALITY EDUCATION SO THAT STYLISTS CAN FEEL COMPETENT AND EMPOWERED TO BUILD THEIR BUSINESS.”

“WE WANT TO OFFER QUALITY EXTENSIONS EDUCATION THAT IS FOR EVERYONE. WE ARE AN ALL-INCLUSIVE BRAND. EVERYONE CAN SIT WITH US.”

those hungry and enthusiastic artists who want to take their careers to the next level. I’m always flattered by the interest we have from stylists all over the country to both take our education and to be more involved as educators for my brand.” She encourages interested stylists to check out her website, lacedhair. com or to follow her social media accounts for updates!

Lacy is committed to giving back, as is evident through the Laced Hair Foundation – a program where Laced provides extensions to women who are experiencing hair loss due to illness or a variety of other conditions. She also brings the give-back spirit

to her academy, which is why Lac[ED] will select one student or hairdresser each month to award a certification scholarship to.

Lacy said: “We just really believe it's important to support the community that we love so much with the highest quality education so that stylists can feel competent and empowered to build their business. We know certifications are really expensive and time-consuming, so this is our way to give back and give people the chance to get into the world of hair extensions. I’m always rooting for young stylists and want to support them.”

DONNA BELLA HYBRID WEFTS

Combine the best of both worlds in machine and hand-tied wefts to give you long lasting comfort and ultimate customization. Featuring seamless blend, full movement, and perfectly tailored length and volume.

100% Remy human hair and ethically sourced donnabellahair.com

ONE BY IBE

A micro weft that eliminates return hair and allows for ease of customization by cutting anywhere along the weft line without risk of damage or unravelling. Variety of colors, textures and lengths. Apply for stylist pricin

invisiblebeadextensions.com

GOLDIE LOCKS ENHANCE YOUR STYLE BUNDLE

All-in-one solution for flawless hair. With Flyaway Fix Hydrating Pomade Stick, Flexible Hold Hair Spray, and Dry

TRAY

Holds extensions on all four sides, with three heat resistant cups to put hot fusion/hot tools in and specific holes to hold a color brush, tail comb, or plier. This all-black tray features durable “combs” for smoothing hair.

$199.00 // bluesmarttools.com

Ready to wear with the clips in place. Applying a full head takes just a few minutes. Each clip-in extension adheres to the natural hair with silicone lined “pressure clips.” These help keep the extensions in place and blend beautifully with natural hair. lacedhair.com

TOOL NOT JUST A

JO HEINE OF CALIFORNIA-BASED WEST 101 SALON IS A PLATFROM EDUCATOR AND SHEARS MASTER. HER GOTO BRAND IS TONDEO – SHE TOLD US WHAT’S SO GREAT ABOUT THIS BRAND AND HOW YOU CAN USE THEM TO DESIGN ANY HAIRSTYLE YOU WANT. WITH TONDEO, SHE TOLD US, THE OPPORTUNITIES ARE ENDLESS…

Jo is the queen of shears. From multitextured mullets and shags to long flowing beach waves and the crispest bobs – she knows how to cut and style it all. What tools does she use to execute her finest work? The answer: TONDEO shears. Which model is her go-to? “With TONDEO, we don’t just sell scissors, we create experiences. The Zentao 6.5 shears are my favorite TONDEO tool. There’s no other scissor out there that looks like it! It’s one of our most loved and talked-about shears purely because of the way it looks, which is a great thing because people – especially hairdressers – are attracted to beautiful things. They use them once and realize how absolutely incredible they feel and function.”

From beginners to true professional stylists and salon owners, TONDEO have the right high-quality tools for everyone. Their hairdressing scissors come in left-handed versions, with each product range being supplemented by hairdressing scissors sets. Jo told us: “Not to mention how precise I am able to be with them because of their thin tip. The length of the Zentaos especially gives me freedom for perimeter cutting on dry hair. It really is an all-round beautiful tool, both in aesthetic and in the final result you create for the client. Crisp, sleek, and efficient every time.”

Photography// jo_west101salon

precision engineering, and these shears are no different. We know the country are great at designing and engineering great cars – but they have a talent for shears as well!”

The hairdressing scissors in TONDEO’s Premium-Line are made with an innovative TONDEO CONBLADE cutting edge, making a perfect combination of a strikingly convex scissor blade and extreme hollow grinding. CONBLADE technology gives TONDEO scissors extraordinary stability, durability, and sharpness.

What TONDEO tools does Jo use for texturizing, thinning, and finishing?

“I actually use the same pair for these functions – honestly, there’s so much

“Never stop learning. I follow my dreams with passion and certainty, and you can learn something from anyone you meet – and you never know who they know and who can give you an even wider breadth of knowledge. It doesn’t matter whether they’re new to the industry or if they’ve been in it for decades… Everyone works in unique ways and it’s always beneficial to learn fresh ways of working.”

Ultimately: “Get it out of your comfort zone! You’re more capable than you think! And you never know if you don’t try…”

Find Jo on Instagram as @jo_west101salon and TONDEO @tondeo_north_america

“

TONDEO’S ZENTAO 6.5 SHEARS ARE ONE OF OUR MOST LOVED AND TALKED ABOUT SHEARS PURELY BECAUSE OF THE WAY IT LOOKS, WHICH IS GREAT

BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

YOU CAN BE THE BEST HAIRDRESSER, STYLIST, NAIL TECH OR BEAUTY EXPERT IN THE INDUSTRY, BUT DOES THAT MEAN YOUR BUSINESS IS AUTOMATICALLY SET UP FOR SUCCESS? WE TALK RETAIL, FINANCE, COMMUNICATION, AND MANAGEMENT SO YOU CAN GIVE YOUR BEAUTY BUSINESS THE BEST CHANCE OF FINDING SUSTAINABLE SUCCESS.

BY ANNA MANUKYAN

PROTECTING YOUR INCOME

COLUMNIST ANNA MANUKYAN IS NOT ONLY PASSIONATE ABOUT HELPING YOU EARN AND SAVE, BUT SHE ALWAYS HIGHLIGHTS THE IMPORTANCE OF PROTECTING YOUR INCOME FOR THOSE “WHAT IF…” SCENARIOS. HERE’S HOW TO BE IN CONTROL FOR THOSE OUT OF CONTROL MOMENTS.

So, what does ‘protecting your income’ mean? Well, it means planning for that “one bad day” in your life and business. What happens if you fall and can’t work for three months? What happens if your partners passes away? I have seen so many people end their career with a Go Fund Me account, and while there is no shame in that, understanding how insurance and asset protection work is essential. Over a 30-year career, the chances are, something out of our control will happen, and while we can’t control that, what we can control is how we can be financially prepared to recover.

HERE ARE FOUR WAYS THAT GET STARTED PROTECTING YOUR INCOME:

1 Disability and Long-term care insurance

2 Key person insurance (for business partners)

3 Life insurance for your spouse/life partner

4 Accurate coverage amounts for your key assets

Insurance and proper coverage is a must for protecting your income, as is investing your money along the way so that you’re not losing value due to inflation.

Now slower periods in the salon are not uncommon, and they are not necessarily a ‘What If” scenario, but it is important to prepare for them. Rather than putting all your efforts into marketing, sales, discounts etc to bring new clients in, focus on your current clientele base.

Take the time to do a new consultation with your existing client, 80% of stylists say they do a thorough consultation yet 80% of clients say they’ve never had one, additionally “not feeling heard” when it comes to their hair is one of the top reasons that clients leave their stylist. Re-engage with your client vs asking if they want the “same as last time, add a new service or treatment to try the same day if you have extra time.. it’s a win-win.

HERE ARE THREE WAYS SALON OWNERS CAN BRING IN INCOME DURING THESE SLOWER PERIODS:

1 Create the illusion of demand on your social pages, there is usually someone thinking of making an appointment that hasn’t gotten around to it!

2 Partner with a local business for cross promotional flash offer

3 Send a reminder with an incentive to book for clients you haven’t seen over ten weeks.

When it comes to protecting and being knowledgeable about your income, Education is essential. Learn how money works, how insurance works and what questions to ask when you do meet with someone. Different finance professionals can help you with different aspects of your business. Having a baseline understanding of your needs is key for finding the right professional and resources.

Photography // ISP Creative / Roberto Ligresti

THE PLACE WHERE POSSIBILITIES BECOME REALITY

THIS INDUSTRY IS ALL ABOUT PASSION. BUT, UNFORTUNATELY, PASSION ALONE DOESN’T PAY THE BILLS. AND WHEN YOU BECOME SO FOCUSED ON PAYING BILLS, THE PASSION CAN FADE AWAY. WELL, AT ULTA BEAUTY, PROFESSIONALS HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO FOCUS ON THEIR PASSION, SET THEIR GOALS, AND GAIN EDUCATION AND SUPPORT, ALL WHILE BECOMING A SIX-FIGURE EARNER.

With nearly 1,400 Ulta Beauty stores and salons nationwide, Ulta Beauty is known for not only providing their stylists with benefits, support, and education but also a career path where the sky is the limit. The tagline of Ulta Beauty is, of course, The Possibilities are Beautiful!

Nick Stenson, SVP Store and Service Operations, said: “At Ulta Beauty, we feel we have the responsibility to share and support and empower beauty professionals to have fulfilling careers. We don’t want the people at Ulta Beauty who just want a job. We want people who want to build fulfilling careers in beauty. From the professionals who have been in the industry for 20 years, to those who are just starting out or in school. We want them to know that Ulta Beauty is here for them.”

So, what makes a career with Ulta Beauty so beautiful? Nick said: “First of all, it is the power of the machine we have at Ulta Beauty. We

“THIS YEAR, WE HAD ALMOST A THOUSAND HAIR STYLISTS THAT REACHED SIX FIGURES. AND FOR EVERYONE WHO REACHED SIX FIGURES, WE GAVE THEM A BONUS AT THE END OF THE YEAR. WHERE ELSE ARE YOU SEEING THAT IN THIS INDUSTRY?”

have all the resources right here to help and support every stylist and employee, to provide the education they need, the support and mentorship that they need, and not to mention the medical benefits and 401K, that help set all of our stylists up for a long, successful and sustainable career.”

At Ulta Beauty, reaching a six-figure salary is not just a pipedream, it is a reality for hundreds of stylists every year. Nick said: “This year, we had almost a thousand hair stylists that reached six figures. And for everyone who reached six figures, we gave them a bonus at the end of the year. Where else are you seeing that in this industry?”

We spoke to two of Ulta Beauty’s SixFigure Stylists, to get a glimpse of how they reached their career goals, and what it takes to become a Six-Figure Stylist.

Photography // Gost Media, Roberto Ligresti

- NICK STENSON

Suling Otto is an Elite Stylist at Ulta Beauty, based in Naperville, Illinois, who has been working with Ulta Beauty for 17 years. She started out with Ulta Beauty at the Designer level and has worked her way up to becoming an Elite Stylist, reaching six figures.

Sue said: “When I first started with Ulta Beauty, I felt I was at ground zero. But I built myself up, little by little, setting goals and reaching them. I would go to every training and education session that was available, doing my best to keep up with the latest trends and popular services, improving my skills, and ensuring my customer service and client experience was great.”

Sue continued: “When you are with Ulta Beauty, you are constantly surrounded by support. You don’t have just one person to look up to, you have hundreds. There is wonderful leadership all the way through the company, from the store, right up to the corporate level. Every time I took a class through the Ulta Beauty Academy, I was inspired by the leaders and the educators to continue to grow.”

One of the things Sue loves about working within the Salon at Ulta Beauty is that it is a melting pot for a diverse clientele, offering and carrying a very diverse selection of services and brands, all under one roof. She said: “Because our clientele at Ulta Beauty is so diverse, the brands we carry have to be diverse too.

This is so beneficial to stylists because we constantly get the chance to learn from these brands, adding another tool to your belt.”

Finally, we asked Sue what advice she could offer to stylists with the goal of one day reaching six figures. She said: “If you work hard, you provide the best customer service, you keep your skills sharp, and you show your love and care for your work, at Ulta Beauty becoming the next sixfigure stylist is completely within reach.”

Julio Rosado is an Elite Stylist at Ulta Beauty based in South Carolina. Having been in the industry for almost 20 years, Julio has been everything from salon owner to booth renter, until seven years ago when he joined Ulta Beauty as a stylist and has never looked back.

Julio said: “Although I was always passionate about hair, I never felt I was able to embrace that passion as a salon owner or independent

stylist. I really never thought I would reach six figures in my career, even as a salon owner. So, I made the change to Ulta Beauty because I was drawn to the stability of the company, with the benefits, 401K, and paid time off.”

Little did Julio know, that once he was with Ulta Beauty, he was finally able to stop worrying about all the little things that come with being an independent artist, and he finally was able to embrace his passion and find joy in his job.

He said: “Ulta Beauty boosts our education and abilities with constant courses on the newest trends and techniques, offering opportunities to grow as a stylist. With all the education and support they provide, it makes it easy to grow from Designer to Master, to an Elite Stylist. I am an Elite Stylist now, and I have been hitting the six-figure mark for about four years now. It is all about passion and goal setting.”

Julio said that one of the things that is inspiring to him today is seeing the revolution of textured hair education. He said: “Back when I was in school 20 years ago, there wasn’t a lot of education on textured hair. So now, there are so many texture experts spreading their knowledge, offering education, that we have access to through Ulta Beauty, so that is my current goal right now.”

This is another element that Julio loved when he switched from being independent to working with Ulta Beauty, the access to education, that is not only free to the stylist but you are paid to attend. He said: All the opportunities and education that come from Ulta Beauty, if you were a salon owner or independent stylist, it would cost you thousands, and would really set you back.” But with Ulta Beauty, it’s all about helping you move forward.

Julio’s advice? “Set your goals, aim high, and enjoy the ride.”

IF YOU WORK HARD, YOU PROVIDE THE BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE, YOU KEEP YOUR SKILLS SHARP, AND YOU SHOW YOUR LOVE AND CARE FOR YOUR WORK, AT ULTA BEAUTY BECOMING THE NEXT SIXFIGURE STYLIST IS COMPLETELY WITHIN REACH.” - SULING OTTO

“I AM AN ELITE STYLIST NOW, AND I HAVE BEEN HITTING THE SIX-FIGURE MARK FOR ABOUT FOUR YEARS NOW. IT IS ALL ABOUT PASSION AND GOAL SETTING.” - JULIO ROSADO

SCHEDULICITY:

YOUR DIGITAL BUSINESS PARTNER

WE SPOKE TO JERRY NETTUNO, FOUNDER AND CEO OF SCHEDULICITY, TO FIND OUT WHAT IT TAKES TO BUILD A MULTI-MILLION-DOLLAR BUSINESS IN UNCERTAIN FINANCIAL TIMES. WE COVER EMPOWERING TEAMS, MAXIMIZING CAPITAL, AND PROVIDING THE BEST POSSIBLE SERVICE TO YOUR CUSTOMERS.

Tens of thousands of beauty business owners wake up every morning and log into Schedulicity to see updates on their bookings, marketing strategies, and payment activities. As Jerry told us, his software as a service (SAAS) subscription platform assists beauty professionals in the running of their salons, spas, and barbershops, helping them balance behind-the-scenes management with doing what they love most: servicing their clients. The tech world, much like the beauty industry, is forever changing. Never-ending innovations across the board can make tech feel like a tumultuous place to run a business – especially when crises like Covid turn the industry upside down. We asked Jerry how he approached innovating the structure of his business to survive. He revealed: "I had to make some pretty big decisions. The major one was to wave all of our fees to help our users get their businesses through Covid. It was a terrible time for service providers and SMEs – especially in the beauty industry. Schedulicity's customers are massage therapists, barbers, and hairdressers whose work is the antithesis of social distancing! "Needless to say, we lost a lot of money during Covid after waving our fees and so our income literally went

to zero, but our expenses stayed the same, which meant we lost around $5,000,000...

"I didn’t know what to expect coming out of lockdown and it was difficult to predict the long-term effects it would have on the tech industry – more specifically SAAS – and then on our business as a result.”

The term ‘invest money to make money’ came to mind as Jerry spoke about waving fees yet expanding his teams in order to keep up with their pre-existing growth plans for the company. We wondered what was going through Jerry's mind, as the CEO, as he dealt with these fulctuations both internally and externally. He gave us some insight: “The company's absolute number-one goal after Covid was to go from a negative cash burn every month (which is actually typical of growth in the tech industry, so that wasn't too much of a concern) back into profitability as quickly as possible.

“We wanted to regenerate those millions that we lost and use it to improve what we do for beauty business owners. We needed to become truly indispensable. And we accomplished this by mid-year 2023 – we are back on track with our capital, regaining those

I FEEL VERY FORTUNATE THAT MY EARLY STRATEGIC FINANCIAL DECISIONS PUT US INTO A POSITION WHERE WE CAN LOOK AT THE CAPITAL WE HAVE AND LOOK AT HOW WE DEPLOY OUR CAPITAL TO HELP GROW THE COMPANY AND ULTIMATELY BE OF BETTER HELP TO OUR CUSTOMERS. OTHER COMPANIES RIGHT NOW ARE JUST TRYING TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO SURVIVE THE NEXT YEAR, BUT SCHEDULICITY IS LOOKING AT THE NEXT 10.”

Photography // Kenzie Andren Photography

millions we lost and channelling them into further growth. "I feel very fortunate that my early strategic financial decisions put us into a position where we can look at the capital we have and identify where we deploy our capital to help grow the company and ultimately be of better help to our customers. Other companies right now are just trying to figure out how to survive the next year, but Schedulicity is looking at the next 10.” So, what is next? “The idea is to use the second half of this year to bolster the company and plough our capital back into our services in a thoughtful way that will allow us to grow our revenue, but also continue to do the things that we're known for, which is continually evolving our product so that our customers can also thrive in their day-to-day.”

Jerry touched on the impacts of AI and how that may impact the way booking services work. We wondered if AI is something Schedulicty will engage with. When we asked, Jerry smiled and gave us a glimmer of intel: “We have some incredible innovations in motion right now. We’ll be rolling out some new functionalities in 2024, but that’s all I can tell you!” Follow @schedulicity on Instagram and head to schedulicity.com for news on these exciting innovations.

USING PLATFORMS LIKE SCHEDULICITY WILL STREAMLINE YOUR BOOKINGS, PAYMENTS, AND MARKETING PROCESSES, LETTING YOU MAXIMIZE THE TIME YOU SPEND BEHIND THE CHAIR, SERVICING AS MANY CLIENTS AS YOU NEED TO STAY AFLOAT DURING TOUGH TIMES AND THRIVE DURING THE BUSY TIMES.”

HOW TO BE THE BEST CEO

Jerry shares advice on how to get the most out of your money and your teams... "You have major responsibilities as a CEO and Founder of a company, not just in terms of financial planning and growth strategy, but also in managing people and making the most of their talent.

1 Managing day-to-day operations: are my staff hitting targets? Are we on track with our strategies across departments?

2 Do NOT micromanage: you hired your people for a reason! Trust in their skills, set clear targets, and give them the freedom to do their best work.

3 Bigger picture mindset: brainstorming ideas for growth, predicting any small fires, figuring out how they will impact the company, and then finding a solution.

4 Pay attention: it’s all about foresight and engaging with your surrounding industries –for us, that’s the tech industry but also the beauty industry because that’s where our customers operate. You can burn millions in a flash if you don’t stay informed.

5 Goals: goal setting; celebrating achieved goals; if we’re struggling to reach a goal, let’s figure out how we can skew our journey towards reaching it.

6 Surround yourself with great people: you can’t grow a global company alone! You need experts in each field to actualize your vision and create a productive and healthy working environment.

KEEPING TRACK OF INTEREST

JERRY OUTLINED AN INDUSTRY FINANCIAL HEALTH CHECK.

“Some time after Covid, the Fed raised interest rates as a way to slow inflation in the United States, which sent our tech industry into a spiral. We saw companies like Twitter, Facebook, and Google laying off hundreds to thousands of people. In 2023, NBC News reported a further 0.25% rise in interest rates.

“This has been especially difficult for businesses, simply because a lot of them raised a lot of money at really high valuations in the last couple of years but right now are unable to get capital. Trying to navigate these patterns as the owner of a customer-focused business is tricky because although you need to raise your prices to keep on top of interest rates, you don’t want to lose clientele.

“Streamlining the way you work as a business owner allows you to better understand where you’re at financially. Using platforms like Schedulicity will streamline your bookings, payments, and marketing processes, letting you maximize the time you spend behind the chair, servicing as many clients as you need to stay afloat during tough times and thrive during the busy times.”

REVOLUTION JOIN THE RETAIL

ARE YOU PREPARED TO REVOLUTIONIZE YOUR SALON, BECOMING A HAVEN FOR HAIR HEALTH AND BUSINESS SUCCESS? OUR COLUMNIST MCKENZIE TURLEY – EXTENSIONS SPECIALIST AND OWNER OF INVISIBLE BEAD EXTENSIONS – TELLS US HOW TO USE RETAIL TO BOOST YOUR BOTTOM LINE.

As seasoned professionals, we’ve come to realize that unlocking the true potential of every head of hair involves a deeper look beyond the surface to truly understand the internal factors of hair health. Despite our best intentions to maintaining balanced diets and proper hydration, clients often fall short on essential nutrients crucial for hair vitality. This is where the magic of Goldie Locks® supplements takes center stage. Each daily serving bridges the nutritional gaps that can make or break hair growth and

resilience. Goldie Locks® offers a premium formulation with potency levels necessary to see longer, fuller-looking hair. Our need for growing expertise is evolving, and this insight places us at the forefront of something new and essential for our businesses retail shelves. Traditional retail has changed and in this new era of hair care, Goldie Locks® is offering stylists and salons the chance to be part of the growth and transformation; to start addressing hair health from the inside out. This

shift is reflected in the emphasis on offering supplements that nourish and enhance hair health, for thicker and longer looking hair while maintaining clients’ well-being and long term hair vitality.

Choosing to offer Goldie Locks® supplements goes beyond a business move; it’s demonstrating your commitment to balanced and superior hair care. This commitment extends to building client loyalty and boosting your business revenue.

Why? Because offering supplements isn’t a onetime transaction, it’s a monthly commitment of usage that provides the best end results. Clients become more invested in their hair health journey, and as they witness the transformative effects with Goldie Locks® Supplements, they build a strong connection with you and your salon offerings.

By choosing Goldie Locks® Hair Growth Supplements, stylists unlock a realm of unparalleled advantages. Unlike what is available at local big box retailers, Goldie Locks® Supplements offer a level of excellence that can be found in-salon or through our Goldie Locks Pro Affiliate program. While this program isn’t just about supplements, it’s a platform designed to uplift our stylist community. With the industry’s highest commission rates, it’s a testament to our commitment in empowering stylists while providing clients with a transformative hair wellness solution that is second to none.

“TRADITIONAL RETAIL HAS CHANGED AND IN THIS NEW ERA OF HAIR CARE, GOLDIE LOCKS ® OFFERS STYLISTS THE CHANCE TO BE A PART OF THE GROWTH AND TRANSFORMATION; TO START ADDRESSING HAIR HEALTH FROM THE INSIDE OUT.”

Photography// Haley Haxton at Modish Salon.

®

GOLDWELL, THE BRAND THAT HAS KEPT THE NEEDS OF STYLISTS AT ITS CORE FOR OVER 75 YEARS, HAS RECENTLY CREATED THE GOLDWELL COLOR COLLECTIVE TO BRING THE MOST SAVVY AND TALENTED CREATIVES IN THE GLOBAL COMMUNITY TOGETHER. WE SPOKE TO THE NORTH AMERICAN MEMBERS OF THE COLLECTIVE TO HEAR ABOUT THEIR EXPERIENCE.

THE CALL OF THE COLLECTIVE

The goal of the Collective is to help bring awareness to both the Goldwell brand and the creators themselves, through content partnerships, events, and more. The Collective is composed of 10 global leading stylists, who have proven not only their skill, but their creativity, and their innovative and modern approach to hairdressing. The Collective will have access to exclusive Goldwell news, will be able to try out new products before launch, and will be invited to the Kao Salon Global Experience

in Chicago, IL. The creators will also have the opportunity to collaborate on exciting new projects, have the ability to participate in global social campaigns, and have access to Goldwell’s Global Ambassador, Angelo Seminara, for digital sessions. We spoke to Ethan King, Kylie Bussing, Leo Byrne and Stacey Smoker, the North Americabased Collective members, to find out what their experience has been like so far, and why they love working with Goldwell.

Photography// // Goldwell.

Hair// Kylie Bussing.

Salon// Kylie Bussing Hair

Time as Goldwell Artist// 8 Years

Top three product picks// Pure Pigments, for boosted hair color and unbeatable shine

Oxycur Platin Lightener, for its ultra-creamy consistency

Colorance Gloss

Tones, for its beautiful shade range, and shiny results.

KYLIE BUSSING

She explained: “Goldwell is such a multifaceted brand in the sense that their products are next level, and their education is some of the best in the entire industry. As a busy stylist, Goldwell allows me to create expensive-looking, healthy hair. There is integrity behind all of the products that they create as well as their education and I appreciate that so much.”

Goldwell is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year. We asked Kylie what he thinks makes it such a sustainable and timeless brand, 75 years on. She said: “Goldwell is always evolving and innovating their products, keeping things exciting for us stylists and ensuring we’re offering the best in class to our clients. This innovation

is so refreshing and inspiring to me and stylists across the globe. As Goldwell evolves and innovates, it allows us stylists to do so as well.”

Kylie continued: “It is such an honor to be a part of this collective alongside such talented and creative artists. To have the opportunity to be a part of trend forecasting for the brand, create inspiring content for the world to see, and generate excitement around the brand has been such a blast and a gift. We are all so passionate and dedicated to our craft and the Goldwell brand and can’t wait to share more exciting projects with the world in the months to come!”

Salon// Ron King Austin

Hair Salon

Time as Goldwell Artist// 8 Years

Top three product picks: Pure Pigments, for all formulas

6N@GB Topchic, a base color for warm brunettes

Silklift Strong, a great lightener for curly clients, for a great lift while adding silk

ETHAN KING

“GOLDWELL CLEARLY KNOWS WHAT’S UP. THEY CONTINUE TO EVOLVE IN AN EVER-CHANGING INDUSTRY AND ALWAYS TAKE ALL THE TRENDS IN PRODUCTS AND CREATING THE BEST VERSIONS FOR US TO USE AS PROFESSIONALS. IT’S ONE THING TO INVENT BUT ANOTHER TO BE ABLE TO PERFECT!”

Ethan has been using and working with Goldwell in the salon for eight years now. He said: “What I love about the brand is they are extremely innovative and extremely aware of the environment. Goldwell is a brand that cares not only about now in the industry but also the future of the industry and making sure we do our part to have a world to keep creating in.”

Ethan shared how he feels Goldwell has maintained it stellar reputation, 75 year on: “Goldwell knows what’s up. They continue to evolve in an ever-changing industry and always take all the trends in products and create the best versions for us to use as professionals. It’s one thing to invent but another to be able to perfect! Goldwell has been in the game for so long because they care and they’re willing to listen to the stylists and the clients.”

What was it like to be asked to be part of Goldwell Color Collective? Ethan said: “I was super excited! Being a part of a collective of talented artists in the industry to create trends in color is a dream! It’s always been so exciting to collaborate with other artists and to

be able to do it with people in other countries who also have a passion for what they do is super cool. We all bring something so different to the table that it’s been cool to get everyone’s perspective.”

We will be looking to Ethan and the Collective for the color trend forecast in the next year. He explained: “Since starting the collective, I have gotten to be involved with deciding seasonal color trends for inspiration on social media. I love creating transformation videos so it’s been fun to have a target color that may not be something I would normally

“AS GOLDWELL EVOLVES AND INNOVATES, IT ALLOWS US STYLISTS TO DO SO AS WELL.”

Salon// Stacey Smoker

Hair & Co

Time as Goldwell Artist// 18 Years

Top three product picks// DualSenses Just Smooth Smooth Control Blow Dry Spray

DualSenses Bond Pro Day/Night Booster

New Kerasilk

Textured Spray

STACEY SMOKER

Salon// Monarchy Salon

Time as Goldwell Artist// 10 years

Top three product picks// Kerasilk Liquid Cuticle Filler Goldwell Creative Texture Dry Boost Goldwell Dualsenses Rich Repair 6 Effects Serum

LEO BYRNE

With 24 years in the hairdressing industry, Stacey knows her stuff. What first struck her about Goldwell was the efficacy and efficiency of the products. She explained: “My first impression was that compared to the other lines I'd used up to that point, it covered grey better and I seemed to need less product to do the same job as other lines. I started working exclusively in Goldwell salons approximately 18 years ago. Once I was in a salon with the line and also a Goldwell Educator, I was impressed by their focus on hair and chemical integrity as foundational brand core values. Maybe it's because I'm half German, but I like rules and I like knowing the why behind the rules. Goldwell gave me both and their answers and positions just made total sense to me. Since I became an

Educator for the brand, I've become prouder and prouder of those initial first impressions but also, Goldwell’s commitment to education is far above and beyond any other line I've ever met. My goal as an educator is to help elevate this industry and I feel Goldwell’s is the same.”

According to Stacey, what makes Goldwell so timeless, 75 years on? She said: “75 years of standardsetting excellence! That's impressive! As a brand, we are sustainable because we pay attention and care about the things that aren't only "ontrend" but are also always focused ahead of what's coming. Eyes always on the future, the ability to provide what the salon and stylist need before they even know they need it, is just one of the things that has gotten us to 75 years of successfully supporting the beauty industry.”

Stacey was equally shocked and thrilled to be asked to be part of the Global Collective. She said: “Since coming on board with the global team, it's been absolutely exhilarating! We have worked together with the leaders of fashion and trend forecasting in the world, including but not limited to Pantone. We worked individually to take our colors of each season and create inspirational works to share with our community. This has been one of the biggest honors of my life. To work collaboratively with the industries best is quite literally a dream come true.”

Leo has been working with Goldwell products for his whole career. He said: “I love that the products are dependable and deliver results every single time! The company’s sustainability and environmentally conscious approach also resonates with me and makes it a brand I’m proud to be a part of!”

He continued: “I believe Goldwell’s incredibly high standards and innovative, cutting-edge technology which provide stylists with the absolute best products on the market are what will continue to make Goldwell the professional's

choice, for 75 years and counting!”

On joining the Color Collective, Leo said: “I am so excited to be part of such a talented and inspiring group of artists and collaborate on exciting new projects!”

What has Leo’s highlight of being part of the Collective been so far? He said: “I love getting a sneak peek of the color forecast and seeing the upcoming trends before they are released. We recently discussed the new colors of the season with a trend forecaster from the Pantone Color Institute and that was very inspiring!” •

“MY GOAL AS AN EDUCATOR IS TO HELP ELEVATE THIS INDUSTRY AND I FEEL GOLDWELL’S IS THE SAME.”

I BELIEVE GOLDWELL’S INCREDIBLY HIGH STANDARDS AND INNOVATIVE, CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY WHICH PROVIDE STYLISTS WITH THE ABSOLUTE BEST PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET ARE WHAT WILL CONTINUE TO MAKE GOLDWELL THE PROFESSIONAL'S CHOICE, FOR 75 YEARS AND COUNTING!”

INNOVATIVE. POWERFUL. RESPONSIBLE. THE NEW TOPCHIC ZERO.

Goldwell introduces the incredibly caring, ammonia-free addition to Topchic. Topchic Zero stays true to its iconic heritage while giving you more options for your color services. The vegan formula* offers incredibly natural, reliable grey coverage –up to 100% – while providing natural looking, even color results with up to 2x more shine**. Discover more at goldwell.com

Scan to learn more about Topchic Zero.

ETERNAL RITUALS

“FOR THIS COLLECTION, LOUIS WAS INSPIRED BY LEGENDARY HAIRSTYLIST AND BRAND COFOUNDER ORIBE CANALES’ GLAMOUR AND SPIRIT.”

Photography // Oribe

IT’S COMING ON THAT TIME OF YEAR AGAIN, THAT TIME WE HAVE ALL BEEN WAITING FOR. ORIBE HAS INTRODUCED THEIR HOLIDAY ARTIST COLLABORATION FOR 2023! THIS YEAR’S COLLECTION CELEBRATES THE ETERNAL RITUALS AND PRESERVATION AND REVIVAL OF TRADITIONAL CRAFTS, WITH A DESIGN FROM MULTIDISCIPLINARY ARTIST AND DESIGNER, LOUIS BARTH ÉLEMY.

At Oribe, every product is born from a commitment to design and artisanal craft, so each holiday season, they partner with artists and makers who elevate and celebrate the brand’s shared values of craftsmanship and storytelling, just as Oribe Canales embraced the art of hairdressing.

Shared Values

Vince Stavale, Director of Packaging at Oribe Hair Care, said: “Craftsmanship and artisanal-inspired design are among the key pillars of the Oribe brand. As a result, each holiday season the Oribe team seeks out like-minded artists and makers for collaboration – those who have elevated their craft to an art form – just as co-founder Oribe Canales did through his approach to hair styling. Like the Journey to Mastery education program created for stylists within the brand’s network — which celebrates the desire for growth and evolution — the artists selected are always working towards achieving the pinnacle of their craft. This year’s collaboration with Louis Barthélemy exemplifies our shared appreciation of heritage craftsmanship and storytelling.”

Each year, Oribe carefully and thoughtfully handpicks an artist to collaborate, with based on the artist’s style, ethos, and practices. Vince said: “At the core of Louis’ practice is a deep commitment to

the preservation and revival of traditional crafts. He not only collaborates with artisans around the world but helps to make their work known to safeguard their livelihoods and pass on and share their precious expertise. Oribe collaborated with Louis Barthélemy to bring our unique expression of heritage craftsmanship and vivid storytelling to life for the limited-edition Holiday 2023 collection, tuning in to his connection to a brand of makers.”

Vince told us a bit more about the ‘Eternal Rituals’ theme, and why it resonates with the Oribe brand. He said: “For this collection, Louis was inspired by legendary hairstylist and brand co-founder Oribe Canales’ glamour and spirit. Louis’ artwork exemplifies his deep appreciation for the rich culture, beautiful lands, and captivating craftspeople of Egypt that have shaped his eye as an artist.

“In Eternal Rituals, Louis showcases the central role that haircare has played in our daily life since antiquity. The three-part tapestry, taking inspiration from papyrus scrolls, tells the story of a sublime long-haired deity, whose magnificent hair flows upward like the Nile as it is tended by characters engraved in the colorful columns. The whimsical narrative celebrates the timeless daily ritual of experiencing self-affirmation and pampering through hair care across time – a ritual we all share.” 

A Word with the Artist

Based between Cairo, Marrakesh, and Paris, Louis centers his practice around the preservation and revival of traditional crafts, collaborating with artisans around the world and promoting their work to protect their livelihoods and ensure the continuation of their expertise through future generations.

Louis said: “I was drawn to the Oribe team after connecting virtually during the pandemic. After learning what the brand stands for, its attachment to craftmanship, and its previous holiday collaborations, I quickly identified with the project. I later met with Daniel Kaner (Oribe Co-founder and President) in Paris, and I felt very comfortable with the team. It felt fluid to pursue a collaboration.”

I asked Louis what elements of the Oribe brand, the products, and the legacy of Oribe Canales’, inspired him and his designs for the brand. He said: “I researched the brand and its founder Oribe Canales, but also tried to connect the brand to the part of the world where I’m based. I looked at the importance of the world of hair and hairstyles in ancient Egypt and found it was crucial in defining social status and identity. I drew a story around gods, goddesses, and deities in ancient Egypt, bringing in a lot of different references from Art Deco, and put it together in illustrations to tell the story of the Queen and her rituals of hair care. Bringing a historical context to the project, we’re able to almost tell a historical lesson to the Oribe Hair Care consumers.”

During the process of working on this collaboration, I asked Louis if he found any ties or parallels between his own medium of art and the art of hairdressing. He said: “I communicate with the artisans through drawing due to our language barriers. To me, it’s so precious to be able to state an idea through illustrations. The drawing is delivered on a real-life scale and is very edited to understand how it’s going to exist in textiles. Then the tapestry itself is really in the hands of the artisans. I will weigh in, but I put a lot in the trust in the artisans’ skills, similar to clients in a salon putting all of their trust into their stylists to bring their visions of self-expression to life.”

Louis told us about the message he wishes to share with the professional hair industry through his art. He explained: “There is not a singular way to read into the artwork, rather it’s up to the viewer. I was inspired by this sublime deity. She has her hair being taken care of, so we’re witnessing a beauty ritual. The hair goes up the composition and flows upward like the Nile. It’s a parallel between the hair and the Nile. It’s a celebration of the river that has shaped a region of the world. Hair can also shape someone’s identity and representation in society.

“The piece is a celebration of nature and a nod to Oribe Canales and his spirit. The composition is hijacked by little elements that echo the DNA of Oribe. You see stylized hieroglyphics in combs and hairdryers, and Oribe products being held by the gods and goddesses to take care of the Queen’s hair. They are celebrating how nature is not just a source of inspiration, but a supply for everything we consume and use. It composes what we use in our beauty rituals and hair rituals. A nod to Oribe Canales’ legacy.” •

“AT THE CORE OF LOUIS’ PRACTICE IS A DEEP COMMITMENT TO THE PRESERVATION AND REVIVAL OF TRADITIONAL CRAFTS. HE NOT ONLY COLLABORATES WITH ARTISANS AROUND THE WORLD BUT HELPS TO MAKE THEIR WORK KNOWN TO SAFEGUARD THEIR LIVELIHOODS AND PASS ON AND SHARE THEIR PRECIOUS EXPERTISE.”

BY DANIELLE KEASLING

FLASHBACKS& INSPIRATIONS

WE KNOW DANIELLE KEASLING IS MANY THINGS: SALONEVO COLUMNIST, ULTA BEAUTY PRO TEAM MEMBER, EXECUTIVE ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR GREAT LENGTHS USA, AND AMBASSADOR FOR MATRIX AND BIOLAGE PRO. BUT DID YOU KNOW SHE IS ALSO THE FOUNDER OF HAIR BIZ AND BEYOND, A COACHING PLATFORM FOR BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS? DANIELLE TELLS US ABOUT HER MISSION WITH HAIR BIZ AND BEYOND, AND THE JOURNEY BEHIND IT.

I sat months on end at home in a very surreal world—becoming increasingly suspect of the times, suddenly deprived of artistry, human interaction, and all the “feel-good” vibes a trip to a salon or spa

or fashion event could bring. I was left wondering where our industry would stand. Never in a million years did I think anything would impact people from spending money on beauty. Like most of us,

I was not prepared for the possibility that this could be our new norm. Covid was worse than we expected, and our industry was held to paralyzing standards, almost forced out of work.

Photography//

Headshot: Roberto Ligresti,

Models: Richard Monsieurs.

It is in these moments when you question a lot of things. One of which, for me, was: if I could do something to give back to the beauty business community after such immense struggles during Covid, what would that be?

After months of feeling helpless, it came to me. Being an industry veteran of 26 years, I have always appreciated and understood the value of a mentor. I have mentored many. I knew what I needed to do, I would share my knowledge, experience, and passion for learning and teaching in a more accessible method — specialized, valuable, and on a concierge level.

“Concierge” is a French word meaning “keeper of the keys.” I developed Hair Biz and Beyond with that in mind, offering the keys to success in oneon-one and business coaching, consulting, and keynote speaking for beauty professionals.

With the new technologies and acceptable ways of doing business during Covid, it is now –more than ever – possible for me to connect world-wide. Teaching, coaching, and inspiring beauty professionals far and near suddenly became less complicated and more customizable via Zoom and FaceTime.

Fast forward back into the “new world” of today. As we all continue to try to re-establish our roots, get our grounding, it is more important than ever to find our people, and to study leaders we feel most connected too. To learn and grow again.

Back to business as usual for me has meant full steam ahead, traveling full-time for multiple brands again. Oh, how I have missed my industry family. I have immense gratitude for them, we've

created some jaw dropping campaigns with more to come. But now, there’s also a renewed desire to give back to this fabulous industry group. Which leads me to what’s next and what’s the future for my company, Hair Biz and Beyond.

I read a lot about like attracting like. With this in mind, I kept putting these thoughts out to the universe. I'm pleased to say the universe delivered. I've partnered with a seasoned marketing professional and together we're combining our wealth of knowledge to give beauty professionals a refreshed approach to business, with straight forward education. In our individual professions, of beauty and marketing, we have dedicated our entire careers to helping people expand to their next level of visibility and impact to thrive and prosper.

Hair Biz and Beyond is a natural evolution of our hard-earned experience, expertise, credibility, and authentic big-energy.

We focus on offering what we wish we’d had when we started and again when we were striving for that next-level growth: more clear-cut resources. We know the immense importance of surrounding yourself with a like-minded tribe, of investing in programs and relationships that will lift you up.

Hair Biz and Beyond’s Mission: Helping Beauty Professionals grow their business with more money, ease and balance.

WE FOCUS ON OFFERING WHAT WE WISH WE’D HAD WHEN WE STARTED AND AGAIN WHEN WE WERE STRIVING FOR THAT NEXT-LEVEL GROWTH: MORE CLEARCUT RESOURCES. WE KNOW THE IMMENSE IMPORTANCE OF SURROUNDING YOURSELF WITH A LIKE-MINDED TRIBE, OF INVESTING IN PROGRAMS AND RELATIONSHIPS THAT WILL LIFT YOU UP.

THE SCENT OF SUCCESS

BLACK THE SALON FOUNDER JEPH WRIGHT SAT DOWN WITH US TO CHAT ALL THINGS RETAIL – WHY TO STOCK

IT, HOW TO UPSELL IT, AND WHY 18.21 MADE MADE IS HIS GO-TO SALE FOR MEN’S SERVICES IN HIS SALON.

There’s no feeling quite like watching your client close their eyes during a service – it’s the sign of ultimate comfort and satisfaction. Choosing the right products can transform their appointment from a simple service into a luxury experience. Jeph told us the key to achieving this transformation is scent. That’s why he uses 18.21 Man Made and stocks the products on his retail shelves.

Let’s paint the picture: you’re a client walking into the sleek, modern interior of Black the Salon and notice the shimmer of a unique golden bottle. As you walk over to the styling chair, you wonder, is that a bottle of whisky?

You watch as your stylist creates a hair masterpiece – wait, what’s that glorious scent of sweet saffron and smokey musk? You realize it’s the whisky bottle you saw on the shelves, but it’s not whisky, it’s 18.21’s Original Sweet Tobacco Man Made Wash. The treatment ends, you’re looking and feeling incredible, and ask yourself, ‘How can I recreate this at home?’ LOOK! Jeph and his team are retailing the full 18.21 range so you can feel that rich freshness every single day. Glorious.

“Everything about this brand screams Country Gentleman,” Jeph said when we asked him why he

loves 18.21. “Every product is super sophisticated in its design as well as in the formulations, the fragrances, and how they can be used in the hair. There truly isn’t any other brand like 18.21.”

As an owner of a multi-services salon (his team have skills in everything from blowouts and balayage to fades and close shaves), Jeph told us that his use of solely 18.21 for typically male services is as much a tactic as it is a creative choice. He knows that products that have a masculine smell and look like “things you’d find in your garage” will draw men into his salonbarbershop hybrid space. “What’s special about 18.21 is that I can sell products in the salon and though they may look more masculine, they’re sleek and extremely cool, so don’t look out of place in a space where all genders are welcome,” he said.

The scents are almost hypnotic, Jeph told us, and that’s why he’s able to sustain a steady channel of added revenue for his business. “Just use the products in the treatment, tell the client what you’re doing with them, and then offer them at the end of the service. Easy.”

What products does Jeph use and sell the most of? “We love using the Sweet Tobacco Paste to add

smooth and refined texture while controlling frizz. The Premium Hairspray is great as well because it gives guys an easy way to style and add hold to their hair without having to learn how to properly use a clay or pomade. The Hair Styling Clay and Hair Styling Pomade are excellent for using in the shop, however some guys just don’t know how to use those kinds of products, so the hairspray is a great alternative for lower maintenance styling.”

Jeph continued: “It’s interesting how much more willing guys are to buy a styling or haircare product from the salon if it looks like an oil can! I’ve got guys who would never have bought salon products before but buy 18.21 retail on a regular basis just because it’s so cool. It becomes a talking point on your shelf at home as well – these aren’t just products, they’re experiences.

“No word of a lie, I had someone break into the salon once and all they took was one of the 18.21 Man Made Washes – I think he thought it was a bottle of expensive whisky… If that’s not a sign of a premium product, I don’t know what is!”

Black the Salon are on Instagram as @blackthesalon / 18.21 Man Made are @1821manmade

“WHAT’S SPECIAL ABOUT 18.21 IS THAT I CAN SELL PRODUCTS IN THE SALON AND THOUGH THEY MAY LOOK MORE MASCULINE, THEY’RE SLEEK AND EXTREMELY COOL, SO DON’T LOOK OUT OF PLACE IN A SPACE WHERE ALL GENDERS ARE WELCOME.”

RETAIL TO BOOST REVENUE

BY NINA TULIO J LADNER

, CO-HOST OF NO STYLIST LEFT BEHIND PODCAST SHARES HIS TOPSELLING RETAIL PRODUCTS AND INSALON TREATMENTS.

One of the best ways to increase revenue in your business is to add new services that align with your brand. Another way to increase revenue is to add a retail line that supports your brand and brand mission. I truly believe retail is a part of the client experience and subtle selling techniques like showing your client what products you’re using as you go, should be implemented in every service.

Educating your clients as to what they need to maintain their hair at home is crucial to creating an experience that goes well beyond the chair.

The why! We want to create a boost in the average ticket and add value to the client experience. Adding in additional salon services that enhance the client experience and create a one stop shop for clients is a win win.

I want you to ask yourself: what services can I add to my portfolio that will enhance the client experience and increase my average ticket? Hair extensions? Skin care? Lash services? Spa services?

Treatments and express treatments? Depending on your brand you have many options.

Now, let's talk about the marketing side of this. How do you choose which product line or additional services to bring into your salon? Do you have the time and money to train your team if you have one? How do you get your new services and your new retail line in front of your current clients?

Better yet! How can we attract new clients along the way? Well, here are my top seven tips to consider.

1. Market Research

Identify trends and popular services/products in the industry. Understand your target client and their needs. Analyze your competitors to see what they're NOT offering so you can fill in the gaps.

2. Concept Development

Brainstorm ideas for new services and products that align with your salon's brand and client base. Consider services/products that complement your existing services.

3. Financial Assessment

Evaluate the cost, resources, and training required to introduce new services/products. Ensure your pricing on new services is accurate with your price per minute/hour.

4. Training and Education

Provide thorough training to your team for any new services or products being introduced. Educate them about the features, benefits, and usage of new retail products so they can share this with their clients.

5. Marketing and Promotion

Create a marketing plan to introduce the new services/products. Utilize your salon's website, social media platforms, and email campaigns to spread the word. Consider offering special promotions for new services to encourage your clients to try them out.

6. Visual Merchandising

Arrange the new retail products in an eye-catching display within your salon.I love a good feature table. Use signage, banners, and other visual elements to draw attention. And don't forget to add a “TRY ME” station for new retail products.

7. Gather Feedback

Encourage clients to provide feedback on the new services/products. Use this feedback to make improvements if necessary. Remember, introducing new services and products requires careful planning and execution. It's essential to maintain a balance between your core offerings and the new additions to ensure a seamless experience for your clients.

My favorite retail at the moment is Oligo Professionnels BLACKLIGHT SMART Bond Building System. This aligns perfectly for all stylist to support the in-salon treatments they can offer to their guests to ensure the guests hair is remaining manageable and their scalp is treated while always from the salon. Healthy scalp = healthy hair strands! It’s also over 90% naturally derived, this benefit alone is unmatched.

1.Blacklight Smart Purifying Shampoo

It’s all about purifying the hair and scalp from environmental toxins and chemical residue while nourishing hair!

2. Blacklight Smart Repair Conditioner

This will restore hairs natural shine and manageability. It also sets the guests up with UV protection, hair colour and frizz control.

3. Blacklight Smart Bond Builder and Repair Treatment

This will nourish the hair and replenish hair primary lipids allowing for shine and manageability.

For the styling portion of our guests hair routine at home I recommend the…

1. Blacklight Smart Hair and Scalp Oil

This has many benefits from scalp comfort and relieves scalp dryness. It nourishes and replenishes the hair scalp and lipids. It can be used on wet and dry hair and very lightweight for everyday use.

2. Blacklight SMART Thermal Shield Spray

It's all about thermal-protection which is crucial for any heat tools that are being used in any styling journey. It’s formulated with 98% naturally derived ingredients! Controls frizz, humidity, and offers UV and hair colour protection.

Photography // Parker Burr

RETAILING ISN’T JUST ABOUT PUTTING PRODUCTS ON THE SHELVES IN YOUR SALON AND HOPING THE CLIENT WILL PICK THEM UP. IT’S ABOUT PURPOSEFUL STOCKING AND ACTIVELY SELLING FROM THE CHAIR. HERE ARE MY TIPS ON HOW TO INTRODUCE NEW RETAIL PRODUCTS AND SERVICES IN A WAY THAT BENEFITS YOU AND YOUR CLIENT.

“CREATE A MARKETING PLAN TO INTRODUCE THE NEW SERVICES/PRODUCTS. UTILIZE YOUR SALON'S WEBSITE, SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORMS, AND EMAIL CAMPAIGNS TO SPREAD THE WORD. CONSIDER OFFERING SPECIAL PROMOTIONS FOR NEW SERVICES TO ENCOURAGE YOUR CLIENTS TO TRY THEM OUT.”

BY COREY GRAY AND TONY STUART

IN S6 E13 OF YOUR DAY OFF PODCAST (RUN BY HAIRDUSTRY’S TONY AND COREY) THEY FEATURE AMBROSIA CAREY, WHO IS A HAIRSTYLIST, EDUCATOR, AND SALON MARKETING EXPERT. THEY SPOKE ABOUT NAVIGATING THE WORLD OF BUSINESS AND MARKETING IN TODAY’S SALON INDUSTRY.

Originally from Phoenix, Arizona, Ambrosia now resides in Portland, Oregon, where she owns a mid-sized salon with a team of 13 stylists, three front desk members, and a nail technician. The salon holds a special place in her heart, being a space where diverse individuals share a passion for ongoing education. In addition to her salon, Ambrosia started the Successful Stylists Academy, an avid traveler, exploring various facets of the beauty industry. She is deeply committed to the business side of the industry, enabling her to give back by visiting beauty schools and mentoring students.

Venturing Into The Hair Industry

Ambrosia's journey into hairstyling began when she visited her sister-in-law, a hairdresser, and was encouraged to try highlights. Though initially nervous, Ambrosia was captivated by the energetic and creative atmosphere of the salon. Amidst the energy, Ambrosia recognized that some stylists weren't as busy. This sparked her curiosity, prompting her sister-in-law to explain the dynamics of relationships among stylists, the environment, and the challenges some faced in finding the right clients. Ultimately, Ambrosia's journey led her to purchase and run her own salon, deviating from her family's tech-focused background. Studying marketing gave her the ability to forge connections and communicate effectively. This skill, coupled with a genuine passion for the industry, paved the way for success.

The Power of Business and Marketing

Ambrosia emphasizes the significance of business and marketing knowledge in any career. According to her, understanding how business operates and delivering value through marketing are crucial for success. She believes that building relationships and emotional connections are pivotal aspects of business. Ambrosia stresses that business is more than profit— it's about connecting with people. Profits should be an outcome, not the sole focus. By focusing on emotions and core values, hairstylists can cultivate creativity and foster meaningful connections with clients.

Overcoming Burnout

Burnout is a common concern for stylists, often arising when they lose sight of inspiration. Ambrosia emphasizes the importance of focusing on what energizes and uplifts you, rather than solely fixating on profit and spreading oneself thin. She advocates for self-care and introspection to grow not just outwardly, but also internally. In her podcast, Successful Stylists, Ambrosia delves into practical strategies for handling challenges in the industry. She highlights the importance of acknowledging emotions and core values to maintain creativity and enthusiasm.

Navigating Social Media

Amid the saturation of hustle-related content on social media, Ambrosia believes in sharing authentic, real-life experiences. People crave genuine stories and relatable content, rather than a constant stream of grind-related posts. Platforms like TikTok have gained popularity due to their light-hearted and celebratory nature. Ambrosia's

advice for social media is simple: be authentic and intentional. Share purpose-driven content that resonates with your audience. Prioritize meaningful interactions and focus on what genuinely brings value. Ambrosia reflects on the changing landscape of social media. Instead of showcasing constant hustle, people now seek authenticity and connection. Social media should reflect genuine life experiences and offer solutions rather than just highlighting achievements.

Becoming a Coach

Ambrosia's coaching journey began unexpectedly, leading her to run apprentice programs and collaborate with brands for over a decade. She believes in empowering salon owners and stylists to cultivate leadership skills and influence positive change. Overcoming imposter syndrome is crucial, and Ambrosia emphasizes surrounding oneself with supportive individuals and letting go of self-doubt.

“SOCIAL MEDIA SHOULD REFLECT GENUINE LIFE EXPERIENCES AND OFFER SOLUTIONS RATHER THAN JUST HIGHLIGHTING ACHIEVEMENTS.”

A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A

RUNWAY STYLIST

“I LOVE BEING PART OF A TEAM OF HARDCORE PROFESSIONALS, WORKING WITH SOME OF THE BEST, I'VE COMPLETELY BECOME ADDICTED TO THE ADRENALINE AND CHAOS OF BACKSTAGE LIFE AND TO KNOW THAT EVERYTHING WE PUT ON STAGE BECOMES HISTORY IN REAL-TIME. IT'S INCREDIBLE... THERE IS NOTHING BETTER!”

FROM NEW YORK, TO LONDON, MILAN AND PARIS, THERE ISN’T A FASHION WEEK BACKSTAGE ODETE DASILVA HASN’T SEEN. FOR THE EDITORIAL HAIRSTYLIST GOLDWELL NYC ACADEMY ARTIST, FASHION WEEK TURNS INTO FASHION MONTH, AS SHE LEADS HER HAIR TEAM BACKSTAGE FOR COUNTLESS GLOBAL RUNWAYS.

Photography // Kristina Staal @kristinastaalphotograhy.

With Fashion Weeks in London, Milan and Paris underway throughout September and October, launching the latest fashion looks for S/S 2024, we thought we would talk to a stylist who has made her mark in the fashion world, and has spent nearly every fashion week since 2017 backstage, and in 2019 became the lead hairstylist of a Global Runway, recognized by NYFW for some of the most talented of emerging designers.

For Odete, becoming an editorial stylist wasn’t so much of an ‘if’ but a ‘when’. She explained: “I feel like I always wanted more and somehow, I knew it would be backstage. I could just feel it somehow. I remember being in beauty school on a class trip to the NYC hair show at the Javitts, and telling my teacher that my work was going to be on stage one day. She just looked at me and agreed, but what could she say? I was 14 years old, impressionable and she didn't want to influence me either way.”

Odete shared what she loves most about being involved in the fashion world: “Want’s not to love!? I have the opportunity to do my passion, meet amazing people, work combining hair, fashion, beauty and art. Which is the best and while I travel! It's amazing, but honestly, for me the best part is the collaboration between all the teams. As a lead hairstylist, I collaborate with designers, makeup and production to make something amazing happen on the runway. I love it! I love being part of a team of hardcore professionals, working with some of the best, I've completely become addicted to the adrenaline and chaos of backstage life and to know that everything we put on stage becomes history in real-time. It's incredible...there is nothing better!”

What does a day in the life look like for Odete, when she is working the runways? She explained: “It starts way before the day of the shows. I first create a hair collective or aka hair plan for what models will wear with long hair, short hair, textured hair etc. Sometimes the designer will have an inspiration or vision for the total look including the hair and we work together to create a plan for hair. BUT on the day of the shows; Very, very, very hyper-focused on my team

and I, perfectly executing the current look for that current designer at that moment, until we start the next designer. Nothing else! No food, no breaks, no breathing, no anything! Just perfect execution of the looks and finishing on time. The runway will never start late because of my hair team!”

Throughout her journey, KAO brands have been there to support and sponsor Odete and her team. She explained: “ KAO has been great! They support us backstage with Goldwell products and Varis tools. This season they will be backstage with us capturing pictures and video of the team and I working. They will be posted on social media and PR. Very excited to have them with us this season in all cities NYC, London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks! With the sponsors with us throughout the cities it gives the hairstylist from all over an already known platform to access and watch the shows from backstage and catch glimpses of the runway. Hairstylists love to see backstage life and especially backstage at fashion weeks. They can tune in to @goldwellus @goldwelluki @varisprohair and directly on my Instagram @OdeteDasilvaHair.”

Odete gives us a glimpse at the coming trends from backstage for S/S 2024: “For the runways, the ponytail has always been a tried and true, but Barbie

has made the pony glamorous and more exciting again! For sure we will see versions of this on the runways with side parted swept fringe. Yes! I said side part or no part with a lot of volume on top. The pony will be high and the tail itself will show glam waves or what I expect is a bouncy Kiss Curl at the ends. In addition, we’ll see natural texture celebrated and built-in natural-looking horizontal tousled waves. Maybe a little flair of punk here and there.

“Hair Fashion will continue to appear individualistic as society becomes more and more demanding of being seen as our one true self rather than whomever we should be. And ultimately that is creating a trend. We will see more fun, lived-in bob/ lobs with purposefully tousled hair. Whether its glam waves or tousled waves they will be horizontally placed rather than the standard vertical waves that every balayage has been living in much too long! The side part, no doubt about it, is making a very strong comeback. The hard-defined middle part will be moving on. It’ll stick around a bit, but it will be seen as dated soon. It would not surprise me at all if we start moving into much more voluminous full hair… maybe a little teased back combing here and there to get the volume is on the horizon for hair fashion. We’ll see what 2024 brings but for sure hair is going to get fun again from cut to color to styling!”

Derived from the French term for ‘advanced guard’ – the part of an army that goes forward, ahead of the rest. In art, it refers to any artwork or movement that breaks with precedent, pushing boundaries.

(av , ant' gard) ]

AN EYE FOR

AS AN AWARD-WINNING

Originally from Birmingham, UK, Damien began his career in hairdressing, much like everyone else, enrolling in beauty school, working in a salon as a Saturday boy, and then starting as a stylist in a local salon. But it was after attending his first hair show in London that changed his entire view of the industry.

He explained: “I saw Trevor Sorbie doing a presentation. And there was just something about his work that blew me away. I didn’t necessarily understand it, but I had an appreciation for what he was doing and how different it was. And I just knew I needed to be a part of it.”

So, Damien wrote a letter to Trevor Sorbie, got an interview, and got a job. He explained: “I had to do some retraining and prove that I was willing to work to their standards. Once I did my training and my tests, I found out that Trevor Sobie also had a private academy, where all the finest hairdressers from all

EDUCATOR,

over the world would go to. It was a place where creativity results in abundance, and that’s where the world of hair opened my eyes. I learned that there were so many more options than just staying behind the chair. You could go into fashion, films, editorial, education, celebrity work, you name it.”

And that’s where it all began from Damien. These days, he travels all over the world, educating and creating, while still balancing his time behind the chair in the salon as well. Damien said: “My work life is all over the place but in the best way. I balance my time between consulting for companies, doing photography, offering seminars, and cutting as well! During the times of year when the salons are quieter, I am busier with my education. I spend a lot of time working with other hair artists helping them pull

Any way I can share my knowledge to help others grow, I am there.

If there is one thing for certain about Damien, it’s that he is all about curiosity and having an open mind, and dead against routines and predictability. “This is why I don’t think I could be in the salon day after day because if I had to do the same cuts and styles every day, I would get bored. This is why I love the world of avant-garde. It is this little world in my head where I can be a bit more experimental, a bit more courageous, try things I’ve never done, or never seen. It’s very stimulating. And the more you exercise your creative skill, then the more you open your mind to what is possible and what you can create, and in turn, your work starts to stand out from the crowd and you

HAIRSTYLIST,

AND PHOTOGRAPHER, DAMIEN CARNEY HAS THE KEEN EYE TO CAPTURE AND CREATE THE MOST COMPELLING AND BEAUTIFUL AVANT-GARDE LOOKS, EARNING HIMSELF MANY HONORS AND ACCOLADES.

“THIS IS WHY I LOVE THE WORLD OF AVANTGARDE. IT IS THIS LITTLE WORLD IN MY HEAD WHERE I CAN BE A BIT MORE EXPERIMENTAL.”

Photography// Damien Carney. Hair// Damien Carney, Adrian Guterrez, Anakin Chan.

Damien continued to explain that practicing to create avant-garde hair can have a lot of benefits. He said: “No, you might not be doing avant-garde hair looks on your clients in the salon, but I have a lot of clients who have come to me over the years because they have seen my avant-garde work, and they knew I could offer them something different. They know that I can create many different looks and that I have an open mind when it comes to hair!”

Damien also spoke to the necessity of avantgarde in the grander scheme of hairdressing. He said: “The same idea goes in all industries, from design to architecture to fashion, it is so important to have this area of avant-garde because it is when we become experimental and push ideas beyond the norm that new beginnings are created. There is a purpose behind the madness of experimentation!”

So, how did Damien come to love being behind the lens as much as behind the chair? He explained: “My debut in photography came out of a bit of desperation. I had worked with some photographers who had exceptional vision and talent, but I couldn’t afford them time after time. And then other photographers were fairly priced, but they just weren’t good matches, and led to dead ends. But because I had surrounded myself with so many talented photographers at shoots over the years, they started to encourage me and say, Damien, you’ve been in the studio so long, just buy a camera and a bit of lighting and give it a go! So, I did, and over time I built up my skills more and more. Photography is another eye – it sees an image differently than you would. So being able to understand how something will look both as a hairdresser and as a photographer has been really helpful.”

On top of the many awards Damien has accrued as a hairdresser, many of the collections Damien has photographed have won awards and are finalised in the North American Hair Awards as well. I asked Damien how his understanding as a hairdresser has helped him become a better photographer. He said: “I understand the blood, sweat, and tears, the joy, the anger, and all of

the emotions that it takes to pull a collection together. Because I’ve done it. I have walked in their shoes, and I still am walking in their shoes! So, the advantage is when I shoot for someone, I am also able to help guide them and mentor them in a way most photographers aren’t able to. Right from the concept to the model, to the techniques, to how the stylist is going to change the model from one look to the next, that’s where I can help. Not to mention, I know how to shoot hair. I know what light looks good on certain styles, and what angles emphasize certain silhouettes, how to put a collection together in a way that makes sense visually.” •

Why Create an Avant-Garde Collection?

(And submit it to NAHA?)

Grow Your Profile

As a salon owner, creating a collection and entering a competition can show your clientele that you are still engaged in the industry, that you are challenging yourself and your team, and that you are making an effort to engage in the industry, and this will lead to getting your name out there, and growing your clientele.

Personal Achievement

Maybe you’re working in a salon and you love it, but you need to break away from routine to express yourself in a different format. This is the perfect opportunity. And you never know, you might become hooked!

Develop Your Brand

This is an opportunity to develop your style, find your skills and interests, and build your brand. Everyone knows what a Sassoon image looks like, or what a Toni & Guy image looks like. What does your image look like?

“THE SAME IDEA GOES FOR ALL INDUSTRIES, FROM DESIGN TO ARCHITECTURE TO FASHION. IT IS SO IMPORTANT TO HAVE THIS AREA OF AVANTGARDE BECAUSE IT IS WHEN WE BECOME EXPERIMENTAL AND PUSH IDEAS BEYOND THE NORM THAT NEW BEGINNINGS ARE CREATED. THERE IS A PURPOSE BEHIND THE MADNESS OF EXPERIMENTATION!”

Shop curated styles with beauty professionals in mind. From hats and travel mugs to cozy sweats, we launched a merch line with licensed pros in mind. 100% of proceeds from the sale of our merchandise goes towards PBA’s efforts to support our industry, tackling issues that matter most to beauty professionals.

ALLOWING HEADSPACE FOR

BY TAYLOR LEVEN

AS THE OWNER OF GENDER NEUTRAL BARBERSHOP, HEADSPACE BARBERSHOP, BARBEREVO COLUMNIST, TAYLOR LEVEN IS CONSTANTLY ENCOURAGING AND INSPIRING HER TEAM TO PUSH THE LIMITS OF CREATIVITY AND TO THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX.

Creativity is so important to us at Headspace

Barbershop because it keeps us inspired and passionate about what we do. At Headspace, we help to curate a haircut that brings out your own style. We offer an artist’s touch, and to fuel that passion we have to continuously be feeding our creativity.

Make Purposeful Time for Creating

But continuously staying in that creative headspace is not a simple task, so it is something we have to take conscious actions toward. For example, we have what I like to call creative Sundays! This is a day when the shop is closed, we bring in models, try new techniques, create cool content, and let our creative juices flow! Having an unlimited amount of time to create is so key when you’re trying new techniques. When

you’re fully booked behind the chair it can be hard to really explore your creative side, so we always make time for “play time.”

Embrace Learning New Skills & Techniques

One of the things that make Headspace stand out is that we offer full-color services, which is still not especially popular in traditional barbershops. We are starting to see people experiment a lot more with their own hairstyles and colors! A lot of the current hair trends involve detailed barbering, precise shear work, and pops of color. We find that if you don’t know a little bit about everything, it can be really easy to lose a client. They would much rather go to one person who can do it all. You have to be able to adapt to the hair trends so you don’t lose your clients when the trends change.

Make Your Creative Nature a USP

Clients know Headspace as a welcoming, nonjudgmental, and creative space, which is exactly why a lot of our clients were drawn to us in the first place. You can tell through our website and our socials that we are all really passionate about what we do. It isn’t just a job for us. I take a lot of pride in showing off each of the barbers' own unique brand and style on all of our socials so that clients can choose someone who best fits!

Be Adventurous!

My best advice for those who are feeling like they are stuck in a rut, and want to start thinking outside of the box? Make time for playtime! Find models! Offer free haircuts to people that give you creative freedom! Do things (outside of hair) that inspire you. Explore new cultures, foods, and fashion. Get into nature! Explore different mediums of art! Creatives need time to be creative. Slow down and take time to quiet the noise and just create for fun, not because you have to!

The Creative’s Toolkit

Here are some of Taylor’s top tools and products to stay in the creative lane:

For Lightening and Lifting:

Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Premium Lightener & Developer

Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener 9+ lightens up to 9 levels, enforces bonds within the hair fiber and provides advanced neutralization and improved hair care when used with the BLONDME Premium Developer.

For Vivid Hair Art

Pravana ChromaSilk VIVIDS

PRAVANA’s ChromaSilk VIVIDS collection is semi-permanent, non-oxidative hair color that is designed to be used without developer. VIVIDS Clear-Dilute can be used to lighten or brighten any of your VIVIDS shades. Comes in 23 shades.

For Hair Designs

Cocco Hyper Veloce

Pro Trimmer

With the brushless DC motor which delivers unmatched power, and the Digital Gap™

Ambassador DLC Blade for detailing and outlining, and all-metal aluminium alloy housing helps you get precision results every time.

“CREATIVES NEED TIME TO BE CREATIVE. SLOW DOWN AND TAKE TIME TO QUIET THE NOISE AND JUST CREATE FOR FUN, NOT BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO!”

HAYLEY WILLIAMS, THE LEAD SINGER OF PARAMORE, HAS BEEN A STYLE ICON SINCE THE MID-2000S, WITH HER ICONIC ‘MISERY BUSINESS’ HAIRSTYLE HAVING BEEN RECREATED BY MILLIONS. SINCE THAT FATEFUL DAY, HALEY AND HER STYLIST BRIAN O’CONNOR HAVE WORKED TOGETHER TO BUILD THE WORLD-RENOWNED COLOR BRAND, GOOD DYE YOUNG, AND OPENED UP THEIR OWN SALON, FRUITS HAIR LAB. WE SPOKE TO BRIAN TO GET TO THE CORE OF FRUITS.

Brian and Hayley met in 2006 at The Pink Mullet Salon in Franklin, TN. The next year, Hayley requested Brian to cut and color her hair for an upcoming music video for Misery Business. She brought in a copy of the Japanese magazine, Fruits, asking for an anime-inspired haircut and color. Within no time, this haircut was being replicated by pop punk fans across the world. Thus, starting a beautiful, and very colorful friendship between a hairstylist and a music sensation.

From iconic look to iconic look, Brian and Hayley continued to shock and awe audiences, whether it be her “Still Into You” orange and pink split, to her shock of short blue hair. But it was when Brian and Hayley were on tour together in Australia that the idea of creating their own hair color brand took hold of the duo. After a lot of formulating and testing while on tour, in 2016 Good Dye Young was launched, with five core shades of semi-permanent dye and a lightening kit.

After steadily growing and evolving, in 2020, Hayley and Brian decided it was time to open up a flagship hair salon in Nashville. Brian explained: “This adventure only made the most sense after Hayley and I started Good Dye Young. We wanted to harbor a safe space within our community in Nashville that also allowed us the creative opportunity to showcase our stylist work using Good Dye Young and other brands that have been so inspirational to me throughout my career!”

Brian continued: “Fruits is named after a Japanese magazine that Hayley and I bonded over when we were teenagers. Fruits was a Japanese magazine founded in the late ‘90s that really captured the essence of Tokyo's street fashion. The other inspo we had for the design of the salon is the club kid scene in NYC in the ‘90s – think Party Monster vibes. We really wanted to capture the essence of both of these!

“We want all of our clients to feel accepted and celebrated from the moment they walk into our salon. We created Fruits as a safe haven for anyone who feels misunderstood, the way that Hayley and I did growing up, and who wants to feel safe to express themselves whether that’s through a hair transformation, or just taking time out of their day for themselves.”

The team that Brian and Hayley have built at Fruits Hair Lab also plays a big role in setting the tone for this safe and creative space. Brian said: “We have a team of seven total, five of whom are amazingly talented and diverse stylists that all have brought their own flare and taste to Fruits which I am so thankful for. They all excel in their craft and are so passionate about their field that it has made Fruits what it is and should be. The care that they take for the clients and community is superb and I can’t even put into words what having a staff like this means!”

For all of their creative endeavours, the Fruits Hair Lab of course has access to all of the Good Dye Young range, including their semi-permanent vivid dyes, as well as their haircare range of shampoos, conditioners, scalp scrubs, and color maintenance products. I asked Brian what other brands they use within the salon. He said: “We currently carry Kevin Murphy and Hairstory as well as hope to bring on Oribe for styling products by the end of the year or the top of 2024. For color, we use Goldwell and Wella alongside GDY.”

Finally, Brian shared a common misconception about vivid hair color that he would love to debunk the world. He said: “I would love to debunk the fact that vivid color isn’t for everybody or isn’t professional. It is for everyone and it’s a fashion statement that doesn’t make you any less for having or wanting it. We all should be allowed to express ourselves as individuals and vivid hair is no different!”

“WE WANTED TO HARBOR A SAFE SPACE WITHIN OUR COMMUNITY IN NASHVILLE THAT ALSO GAVE US THE CREATIVE OPPORTUNITY TO SHOWCASE OUR STYLIST’S WORK USING GOOD DYE YOUNG AND OTHER BRANDS THAT HAVE BEEN SO INSPIRATIONAL TO ME THROUGHOUT MY CAREER.”

COLOR

COLOR AND EXTENSIONS SPECIALIST,

LOVE FOR COLOR THROUGHOUT THE INDUSTRY.

Whether she is traveling across the country educating, or in her Studio in Bakersfield, California, Brittany is living and breathing color creativity. She said: “I am constantly inspired by the people around me, whether it is the artists I travel and create with, the students in my classes, or my husband who is a visual artist and tattoo artist. We are always talking about things like art color theory over our morning coffee!”

I asked Brittany to tell us a bit about her journey as an educator. “I started out as an independent educator, working with a few different color and extension brands, until eventually joining the Duomo Pro team.

“You can find me traveling quite frequently, whether it is to the Duomo Pro warehouse in Las Vegas where we do our educator training, or traveling to salons around the country. I will often teach both colors for Duomo Pro and cutting for Hanzo, so sometimes I will be doing two to three classes per day. Then, we also go to shows, which are always a blast. The next ones we have coming up are the Las Vegas Barber Expo and Salt Lake City Beauty and Barber. I feel very lucky to have the best of both worlds,

between spending time in my studio and getting to travel and educate too. I feel like both help me stay creative and inspired.”

Brittany shared a little bit about working with Duomo. She said: “It has been an amazing experience getting to bring awareness to the brand in the United States. It is exciting to be part of the voice for Duomo, bringing awareness to their luxury color range, for both vivid and natural color experts.

“As an Italian-based company, each product is carefully created with thoughtfully curated ingredients. For example, the products contain natural ingredients like Aloe Vera and Rose Hip Oil. The colors also come with a bond builder inside of them, which makes a huge difference. Most of the line, bar our highest lifts, are ammonia-free as well. So many of my clients have told me that the lightening process with Duomo is the most comfortable they have ever experienced, which I think is due to the calming properties of the Aloe Vera. The Duomo color products not only pack a punch with color, but they also help to promote healthy hair growth and a healthy scalp at the same time.” 

BRITTANY HOLLAND (AKA @COZMIC.COLOR) IS A MAGICIAN WHEN IT COMES TO CREATING CREATIVE COLOR LOOKS. AS AN EDUCATOR FOR ITALIAN LUXURY COLOR BRAND, DUOMO PRO, AND HANZO SHEARS, BRITTANY IS PASSIONATE ABOUT SPREADING THE JOY AND

“IT IS EXCITING TO BE PART OF THE VOICE FOR DUOMO, BRINGING AWARENESS TO THEIR LUXURY COLOR RANGE, FOR BOTH VIVID AND NATURAL COLOR EXPERTS.”

The colors certainly do pack a punch – whether you are creating natural tones or vivid fashion colors. Brittany explained: “With the permanent colors, they all stay true to tone. For example, when you do a copper, when you go to do a routine touch-up, that copper tone is still strong, rather than just fading to brown.

“I obviously am all about creative color, so am frequently utilizing their creative colors. The creative colors have a gel baseline, rather than being a conditioner line, like most on the market. I found with conditioner-based colors, the product tends to get overworked, so you end up using tonnes of product so that it doesn’t separate from the dye molecules and create a weird blend. With the gel-based color, you can use way less product and get much smoother blends.”

Brittany is also an expert in hair extensions. I asked her if she had any advice for coloring extensions. She said: “To be honest, I actually avoided working with hair extensions for years because I was intimidated about coloring them. But once I started, I felt like, ‘Where have you been all my life!?’ I love the total transformation you can create, especially when you combine vivid colors and extensions. I used to think red lipstick was magical, but no, it’s 24 inches of hair!”

DreamCatchers is Brittany’s go-to brand for extensions. She explained: “They have been my go-to for years, and I have done a lot of education with them in the past. I actually had the opportunity to travel to their headquarters when they were developing their wefts to ask

myself and other stylists what we love and hate in weft hair extensions and created their wefts based on that advice. So, I thought that was really cool that they listened to us, and now have created the ideal product.

“When I am coloring extensions, I tend to color them off the hair, so it is really important to think carefully and map your placement out. I actually have a lot of clients who love playing around with creative color on their extensions, because they don’t want to cause damage or lighten their natural hair. So, they just expand your abilities to create and transform your clients in a really fun way.”

Brittany is really passionate about the integrity of hair health, so will always be honest about the possibilities of what she can create without causing damage to the hair. She said: “Although I am really adamant about my underlying canvas being as light as possible when working with a creative color look, I always try to ensure that the clients' hair health is put first. So that might mean taking more sessions to achieve their final goal and mapping out the route to get there.

“When I was using other color brands, I used to always put bond builder into my formula, but now that Duomo Pro colors have bond-builder and other hair-protecting ingredients already added, I don’t have to worry as much about that element, which is fantastic.”

While Brittany can control what happens to the hair in her studio, it’s also up to the clients to keep up their hair health regimen between appointments. “Educating clients on home hair

care is so important. Little things like braiding the hair when you go to bed, using silk pillowcases, to sending them home with a good conditioning treatment. I am currently really into the Bond Treatment from Seven Haircare, not only does it smell amazing, but it makes the hair feel really good. For clients who come to me whose hair is already compromised, I will always send them away with the Bond Shampoo, Conditioner, and Mask as homework, so we can both work together to bring their hair back to life.”

Finally, I asked what advice Brittany has for artists who want to dive more into the vivid color world. She said: “First, I think it is important to remember that to be a vivid expert, you need to first be a blonding expert. Your vivid results will only be as good as the canvas you create. You need to get your foundations down and understand your color theory, your undertones, and your hair chemistry.

“Then, when you have your foundations down, it’s all about playing! I have learned so much by just getting colors out, trying out swatches on mannequins, and working with models. I am always researching different methods and mediums of art, and playing around with different blends and application forms on wefts and mannequins to see what works. Having models come in to practice is great because they will get a free or discounted service, you will get practice with less pressure, and then you have a walkingtalking billboard showing off your work!” •

“THE DUOMO COLOR PRODUCTS NOT ONLY PACK A PUNCH WITH COLOR, THEY ALSO HELP TO PROMOTE HEALTHY HAIR GROWTH AND A HEALTHY SCALP AT THE SAME TIME.”

BANKING ON

BY KRISTIN KAIDE

EDITORIAL HAIR

WE’RE TALKING WIGS, BLOWOUTS, THEMED SERVICES, PHOTOBOOTHS, MARKETING, AND MORE…

By embracing the Barbie craze and offering unique experiences, salons can position themselves as go-to destinations for customers seeking the ultimate transformation. The on-screen portrayal of Barbie's iconic looks, combined with the star power of the cast, has fueled the demand for Barbie-inspired beauty transformations. Social media platforms, particularly TikTok, have exploded with Barbierelated beauty content, garnering millions of views and sparking viral trends. In just 30 days, the hashtags #barbienails, #barbiemakeup, #barbiebeauty and #barbiehair accumulated over 171 million views. Barbiecore is not going away anytime soon…

Halloween is just around the corner, and there is no doubt you’ll have more Barbies and Kens than you can handle! There are only so many services you can provide, and it’s not always possible to meet demand. However, for something like this, you have a unique opportunity to sell and style wigs that your clients can pick up when it works for your schedule.

If you’re hesitant to invest too much in this fad, a Barbie photobooth is the perfect way to dip your toes into Malibu waters. Set up the photo booth with a props section adorned with pink accessories and a selection of wigs; that you also retail, of course!

The month leading up to Halloween, give your clients a photo op with a chance to place an order for anything they use. Salon owners can purchase

wigs from an online retailer with quick shipping options to minimize overhead costs. You can then retail them at a higher price point, charge a styling fee, and make extra income without taking away valuable service hours behind the chair. If you already retail hair extensions, now would be a good time to have extra stock on hand and remind your stylists to let their Barbies know before Halloween.

If you don’t want to add retail items or take up space in your salon, adding themed services or having a team outing are other good options. Get your team on board with a bonding movie night while creating fun options for services, like Malibu Makeovers and Barbie Blowouts. Hosting a winter Barbie holiday party could also be a great promo for the business. Capture your stylists dressed up as their most authentic version of Barbie, and throughout the slow season in January and February, highlight each of the stylists on social media. I think it’s important on a website to have professional photos and team bios, but social media allows for more expressive content that provides a personal touch. In addition to highlighting your team, it gives potential clients the chance to get to know your stylists and select one that represents their personality.

Barbie's cultural resurgence has not only captured the attention of young children but also adults who

grew up with the doll. Women in their 30s and 40s, in particular, have a strong connection to Barbie and serve as a prime marketing target. These women not only possess significant purchasing power but also have the ability to influence the spending habits of their children and teens. Small businesses that align their marketing strategies with the Barbie brand can tap into this influential demographic and create meaningful connections with their target audience. According to Fresha, there has been a staggering 508% year-on-year increase in the number of Barbieinspired services offered by salons, including pink nails and platinum blonde hair.

Realistically, not every salon wants to rebrand itself as a Barbie Dream Spa, and you don’t have to in order to capitalize on it. Even bringing in more pink accessories that give a subtle nod to the trend has shown increased revenue. There is still time and plenty of opportunity to jump on the trend. I anticipate its popularity will hold strong through the holiday season, even extending to Valentine’s Day thanks to the popular pink hue. It's a Barbie world, and salons have the opportunity to make their mark in this pink paradise. Let this be a fun opportunity to unleash your creativity with out-of-the-box marketing. Don’t just think pink; think profits and potential. Barbie isn’t just a doll, she’s a marketing goldmine waiting to happen in your Salon!

Pictured // Kristin Kaide & Patrick T. Loughnane at Andreas Hogue Salon

& MAKEUP ARTIST KRISTIN KAIDE TELLS YOU HOW TO EXECUTE NATURALLY GLAMOROUS LOOKS FOR YOUR BARBIE-LOVING CLIENTS THIS HALLOWEEN.

“BY EMBRACING THE BARBIE CRAZE AND OFFERING UNIQUE EXPERIENCES, SALONS CAN POSITION THEMSELVES AS GO-TO DESTINATIONS FOR CUSTOMERS SEEKING THE ULTIMATE TRANSFORMATION.”

BY STEPHANIE YAGGY LAVERY, MIA SECRET EXECUTIVE PUBLISHER ADVISOR

“HARNESS THE POWER OF SOCIAL MEDIA TO SHOWCASE YOUR SEASONAL SERVICES.”

AUTUMN IS PRACTICALLY THE STAR OF ALL NAIL SEASONS. BETWEEN THE SPICED LATTE AND MINI PUMPKIN “NAILFIES” AND THE WONDERFULLY SPOOKTACULAR

HALLOWEEN NAIL ART DESIGNS, FOR MANICURISTS, THIS IS THE TIME TO CAPITALISE ON THE POPULARITY OF THIS SEASON TO BOOST YOUR BUSINESS.

Photography// Mia Secret.

Promote Seasonally-Themed Nail Packages

Offering themed nail services and packages is a great way to attract new clients who are looking to embrace the spirit of the season, while at the same time giving current clients something new and fun to experience — plus, you’re upselling them on their services, which benefits your bottom line. Start by creating your seasonal service menu by offering packages at different tiers so you can cater to various client preferences and budgets. A basic package could incorporate specially scented products — think: pumpkin spice scrub and chai

lotion — and a premium offering would provide the biggest bang for your customers’ buck, with a full spa manicure/pedicure experience, complete with hot apple cider to sip while experiencing deluxe nail services. You could even include a nail art package with simple and more intricate art options, priced accordingly. Then comes the fun part of brainstorming names for each of the services. Don’t forget to outline all of the package details clearly so there are no surprises.

Host a Halloween Nail Art Pop-Up

Transform your salon into a haunted Halloween experience by hosting a themed nail event.

Decorate your space with spooky decor, upload a Halloween playlist and offer festive treats to create an immersive experience. Consider partnering with a local costume shop, makeup artists or even photographers to create a one-stop destination for a Halloween glow-up. Invite current clients and ask your collaborating vendors to invite theirs too. Offer simple Halloween-inspired nail art, and sell gift cards as well as your seasonal packages. Not only is this a fun way to celebrate the season, but it’s also a great way to introduce potential clients to your amazing salon. 

“CONSIDER PARTNERING WITH A LOCAL COSTUME SHOP, MAKEUP ARTISTS OR EVEN PHOTOGRAPHERS TO CREATE A ONE-STOP DESTINATION FOR A HALLOWEEN GLOW-UP.”

Leverage Social Media

Harness the power of social media to showcase your seasonal services. Regularly post high-quality images and videos of your autumn- and Halloween-themed nail art and creatively packaged services on your Instagram, Facebook and TikTok accounts. Don’t forget to include hashtags like #HalloweenNails, #PumpkinNails and #FallManicure to expand your reach and attract potential clients. Encourage your own clients to share their nails as well, and make sure they tag your salon!

Incentivise Referrals and Reviews

Utilise satisfied customers by asking them to refer their friends and family to your salon by offering seasonal incentives. Consider providing discounts on services or retail items, free add-ons or upgrades or exclusive access to one of your seasonal packages for clients who successfully refer new customers. You could also reward clients who leave positive reviews and testimonials online, as these often play a crucial role

in building community trust and attracting new clients. You could even hold a raffle for clients who tag your salon in their social posts. At the end of the month, hold a drawing and give away a selection of retail products or a salon gift card to one or two lucky winners.

Host a Halloween Nail Art Competition

Create a competition among your staff members by establishing a theme for each week of the month of October. At the end of each week, participating techs will submit their nail art and the salon owner and/ or manager can judge the results. Consider eliminating contestants each week so that at the end you have a winner, or make it less competitive by allowing each week’s competition to stand alone. Gift winners with silly prizes and bragging rights by highlighting the winner’s work in the salon each week. Not only is this a super-fun way to get in the spirit of the season, but it also creates camaraderie among your staff and allows your nail techs to really stretch their artistic ability.

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COCCO HYPER VELOCE PRO TRIMMER

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DUOMO PRO VIVID LINE

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CHROMASILK CRÈME COLOR

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GOOD DYE YOUNG STARTER KIT

Contains everything you and your clients need to add a pop of color to their hair. Kind to natural hair and scalp, and available in six vibrant shades.

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Nail Artist : Nury Stella Avila Hernández (Colombia)