No 292 / Spring 2011
580 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10036 - email@example.com - www.assael.com
IN THIS ISSUE
On the Cover Pendant, earrings, and ring in the Antigua collection in 18K rose gold with amethyst, citrine, and diamonds by Opera Omnia.
Cover Feature on page 6
Lacy Looks â€“ Ole Lynggaard
Marketplace SIHH â€“ Cartier
Editorâ€™s Letter 04
Cover Feature 06
Paper Is So Last Millennium... or Is It?
Spring Flowers â€“ Piaget
Opera Omnia â€“ Seductive Sonatas
Trends & Colours
ProďŹ les 08 10
20 22 24 26 28 30 32
Eco-Gold by Jewelmer Ramon â€“ Devotion to Excellence
Colour Trends 12
Colours for Spring/Summer 2011
Spring Flowers Lacy Looks Still Charming Black is the New Black Pure White Colour Combos Underwater Treasures
Marketplace 34 38 42 46
SIHH 2011 â€“ Optimism and Neoclassicism Vicenzaoro First Opens Under the Banner of Innovation Jewels in the Desert IIJS Signature 2011 Show Report
32 3 â€“ Underwater Treasures Treas Webster Stephen W
Colour Trends â€“ Nary Manivong Maniv
The Yearbook No 291 / Winter - Trends Guide 2011 is brought to you by CIJ International Jewellery TRENDS & COLOURS / Europa Star. s Editor #YNTHIA 5NNINAYAR s Contributors $IANA 3 :IMMERMAN 4 2 &LORA 2AYAN )NNUE !NTONELLA 3CORTA +IRAN .IRANKARI s Advertising contacts Alexandra Montandon firstname.lastname@example.org T. +41 22 307 7847 / Nathalie Glattfelder email@example.com T. +41 22 307 7832 /Italy - Alessandra Arati firstname.lastname@example.org T. +39 024 851 7853 / Spain - Carles Sapena email@example.com T. +34 93 112 7113 / Asia - Maggie Tong firstname.lastname@example.org )NDIA "HUPAL 0OTDAR BHUPALPOTDAR MEDIA SCOPECOM 4 53! #YNTHIA 5NNINAYAR CU COMMUNICATIONSINTLCOM 4 s Graphic Design ,AURENCE #HATENOUD 4ASHA 5NNINAYAR s Managing Director 0HILIPPE -AILLARD s On the Web at: www.CIJintl.com and www.worldwatchweb.com - Published by Europastar HBM SA - 25 Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland - Tel: +41.22.307.7837; Fax: +41.22.300.3748; Email: contact@CIJintl.com 0RINTED IN 'ENEVA BY 32/ +UNDIG s #OPYRIGHT BY %UROPA 3TAR )NTERNATIONAL *EWELLERY All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of CIJ International Jewellery.
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L E T T E R
Paper is so last millennium… or is it? We are hearing more and more these days about the death of paper. Some argue that because of the internet, paper will go the way of the dinosaur, that online advertising will replace print, that paper is so last millennium… Well, not quite so fast. A research study involving brain scans commissioned by the branding agency Millward Brown shows that people process information differently depending on whether it is virtual or on paper. The study suggests that “physical material is more ‘real’ to the brain. It has a meaning, and a place. It is better connected to memory because it engages with its spatial memory networks.” The study goes on to state that “physical materials produced more brain responses connected with internal feelings, suggesting greater ‘internalization’ of the ads.” To sum it up, “tangible materials leave a deeper footprint in the brain” than do virtual materials. Thus, “tangible materials involved more emotional processing in the subjects, important from a branding and ad recall standpoint.” Does this mean we should abandon the digital world? No, of course not. What this study shows is that both mediums have important but different—and we could add complementary—roles when it comes to marketing and branding. Paper incites a more emotional and long lasting response but the interactivity and immediacy of digital have their own advantages. To use our magazine, CIJ Trends & Colours, as an example, many of our readers—retailers, designers, and brands— have complimented us on the attractive pages and layouts showing the trends and the many colours of jewellery from around the world. Theirs was a physical response to the physical pages, to the print magazine they held in their hands. Yet, after printing and mailing the last issue—the 2011 trends tracker guide—it was put online on our rather unique website, www.CIJintl.com. The response surprised even us. It received nearly a million page views. Obviously, both paper and digital are important parts of our world. Both have their place, and both can be used to effectively get a message out. In this issue, we continue our message of colour, showing the Spring/Summer 2011 colours forecasted by Pantone, along with matching jewellery. In terms of trends, the floral theme is one of the biggest for 2011 and is featured here along with the popular marine motifs and the luxurious lacy looks—the price of metals oblige. While colour is, of course, the main trend, both in single shades and in multi-hues, black and white pieces continue to be appreciated by many, as do the little charms that can be personalized in so many ways. You can see them all on our Trends & Colours pages in this issue. Happy reading—whether you are holding the magazine in your hand or viewing it online.
Cynthia Unninayar Editor-in-Chief / CIJ Trends & Colours 04
1 E R M P E ( Y F E M , S R K /S R K 1 I P F S Y V R I 4 E V M W
[ [ [ N I [ I P Q I V G S Q
Opera Omnia – Seductive Sonatas Antigua Collection
Opera Omnia continues to create colourful jewellery that combines Italian expertise in craftsmanship with a pureness of design. By Cynthia Unninayar Marketing maestro Massimo Zerbini is not resting on his laurels with the success of his new brand Opera Omnia. Having assembled a group of talented artisans and creative designers, he continues to build this new and distinctive brand through a style and set of values that reflect the post-modern world of ultimate luxury. Using precious gems and the highest quality materials, Opera Omnia has just added two new collections, confirming its prestigious status in terms of superior design, stone quality, and superb manufacturing. Innovation, new materials, high quality gemstones, diamonds and unique combinations of gems and precious metals are a few of the phrases that describe Opera Omnia’s latest collections of Antigua and S.Barths. There is something magically seductive about the curved lines, sinuous movements, and interwoven patterns that make up the fine jewellery pieces in the Antigua collection. In an almost theatrical manner, they interpret a variety of historical baroque patterns that represent a mixture of cultures, symbolisms, and mysticisms. The artistry and virtuosity of each Antigua piece is enhanced by the uncommon combinations of different gemstones. Amethyst coupled with Madera quartz or citrine with smoky quartz, joined in unusual settings evokes a world of allegoric illusions and dreams. The thoughtful mix of yellow or rose gold with precious gems creates a certain rhythm that breaks with the past and brings it into the future. The forces of Nature seem to come alive in a soft, yet assertive, fashion in the S.Barths collection. Building an exclusive and absolute relationship with Nature, the S.Barths collection presents small sculptures that can be worn and admired. Soft fluid shapes in 18K rose or white gold suggest the sensuality of S.Barths Island and reflect the movement of the isle’s flowers and leaves. Colourful, airy, and intensely feminine, these exquisite pieces bring together the finest sapphires, rubies, and diamonds in creative and contemporary combinations. Opera Omnia continues its popular Saba line with a variety of new designs. The latest creations continue the use of colour and the geometric forms of its earlier lines, adding a very contemporary flair in terms of design and vibrancy. Lively chromatic combinations of pink gold, jet, multi-colour sapphires, and leather make these pieces exceptional.
Saba Collection Canouan Collection
The brand’s continuing Canouan line, inspired by the southern Antilles and the varied landscape of green hills, secluded bays, and white sand beaches, features such gems as white and brown diamonds, tsavorite, amethyst, prasiolite, and garnet in simple and clean designs. Again drawing inspiration from the marine environment are pieces in the Coral Reef collection. In various shapes, these jewels are covered with diamond pavé or hand-finished mother-of-pearl, highlighted with pink sapphires, chalcedony, and other coloured gemstones. Who are the women who wear these original pieces? Zerbini describes the Opera Omnia woman as “an individual who is self-confident, dynamic, cosmopolitan, and very often a self-purchaser. She is proud to reveal the different aspects of her personality.” For its distribution, Opera Omnia works with select retailers. The brand’s strategy and co-marketing activities for 2011 are focused on three pillars: working closely with retailers to support them throughout their business development; having a consistent communication plan to help increase awareness and visibility of the Opera Omnia brand with consumers; organizing local events to enhance the importance of the brand, its message, and identity at the point of the sale. Opera Omnia will be present at BaselWorld in March at the prestigious Hall 2.2, Booth E81, as well as at the exclusive Couture show in Las Vegas in June where its latest seductive sonatas can be admired. (operajewels.com, opera-omnia.it, Tel: +1.305.534.1974)
Coral Reef Collection
S.Barths Collection 07
ECO-GOLD BY JEWELMER The true beauty of the creations by Jewelmer is on two levels. First is the brand’s exquisite jewellery made from the natural golden pearls that it cultivates in the ocean waters of the Philippines. Second is the brand’s active participation in protecting the environment. By Cynthia Unninayar Jewelmer, the world’s leading producer of golden pearls, was started in 1979 by the visionary French perliculture expert, Jacques Branellec, and Filipino entrepreneur, Manuel Cojuangco. What sets this company apart from most others is not just the high quality of its living golden gems and luxurious jewellery, but also the brand’s philosophy and determination to protect the environment and promote sustainability projects for the local population. Jewelmer’s jewellery is a perfect blend of European and Asian creativity, artistry, and craftsmanship, combining the lustrous golden pearl—which needs no polishing or enhancements to release its inner glow—with 18K gold, diamonds, and coloured gemstones. Ranging from simple pendants to elegant strands to sumptuous pieces worthy of the red carpet, the jewellery of Jewelmer is like no other. Behind these extraordinary pearls lies thirty years of research and experimentation to provide the best environment for the oysters, which allows them to create these golden organic gems. And, for oysters to live and thrive, this environment means clean seawater at constant temperatures. But, there are threats to this environment. Industrial pollution, erosion, and siltation put the health and lives of the oysters at risk, while destructive ﬁshing methods— especially those using dynamite and cyanide—can dramatically harm the fragile marine ecosystem. And, along with global warming comes rising sea temperatures— even a two-degree change can prove fatal to the oysters. “The pearl is an indicator of the health of the planet,” says Jacques Branellec, managing director of Jewelmer and avowed environmentalist. “It records every nuance in the cleanliness of the water, every change in temperature, every disturbance caused by a dynamite blast. If we preserve nature, we will continue to have pearls. If mankind does not respect our environment, the pearl industry might just vanish, as it has already done in some parts of the world.” While Jewelmer’s management readily states that maintaining a clean environment is in its best interest, the philosophy of protecting the environment goes much deeper and is deeply ingrained in the entire company. This social and environmental awareness is also seen in various initiatives that Jewelmer has undertaken to teach the local population sustainable farming techniques for a better life, and to help stop the detrimental slash and burn activities, as well as destructive ﬁshing. The company also contributes to other environmental protection and education efforts in the local islands. A company with a conscience, Jewelmer will continue to help protect the environment as well as provide the world with its beautiful eco-gold ccreations. (www.Jewelmer.com) cr 08
Ramon – Devotion to Excellence Barcelona-based Ramon occupies a prominent place among fine European jewellers, producing high quality collections under its own brand label as well as private collections for many of the finest names on the Place Vendôme. By Rayan Innue
“I have not been lucky by chance.” Carlos E. Ramon—father of current chairman, Mr. Carlos Ramon—whose personal motto was “work, work, work,” lived by these words since he was 17 when he opened his first workshop with only five employees. Today, the Ramon brand is recognized globally, with over 300 international and national customers. Its collections include a range of stylish jewellery, from whimsical animals to sinuous gold and diamond pieces to captivating and airy mesh circles and ovals. Ramon also varies its designs to meet the requests of specific clients. “After all,” Carlos Ramon says, “the customer is King.” “There are no preconceived rules in the design of our jewellery,” he continues. “We try for acute artistic sensitivity and extraordinary creativity as well as a search for perfection in each design.” Harmony, balance, and sophistication are at the heart of each collection—as is Carlos Ramon’s devotion to excellence. But there is also a captivating sense of charm and fun in many of his pieces. A few years ago, the company introduced spherical elements into its design line-up, made up of a refined and airy mesh of circles in a variety of shapes. Later, came oval forms in a number of variations in rings, earrings, bangles, and pendants. Large, but light and airy, these gold, diamond, and gemstone pieces are destined to the self-purchaser who knows what she wants. And, for women who want to be truly exclusive, Ramon also produces its pieces in platinum. In BaselWorld, Ramon will introduce 30 to 40 new pieces consisting of coloured rings using enamel and diamonds, flower motifs, laser cut bracelets, and more circle motifs, all reflecting high quality and distinctive designs, representative of Ramon’s devotion to excellence. (www.ramon.es) Carlos Ramon
C O L O U R
T R E N D S
Colours for Spring/Summer 2011 In the winter edition of CIJ Trends & Colours, our annual trends tracker guide, we talked DERXW WKH WRS WHQ WUHQGV LQ ÂżQH MHZHOOHU\ IRU 6LQFHFRORXULVRQHRIWKHPDMRUWUHQGV ZHFRQWLQXHKHUHZLWKDORRNDWFRORXUVRIMHZHOOHU\FRPSDUHGWRWKHPDLQFRORXUGLUHFWLRQV LQ IDVKLRQ DV IRUHFDVW E\ 3DQWRQH ,QFOXGHG also are are the opinions of fashion designers on their must-have fashion item.
Nary Manivong, using Pantone Blue Curacao. The must-have fashion item: One-shoulder corset wrap dress in Sea Foam, and the ďŹ sherman pants in the diamond print will look great with a Black or Nude strapless wrap corset top. Goldesign Stephen Webster
Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Colour Report Spring 2011.
SWAROVSKI AG / DROESCHISTRASSE 15 / 9495 TRIESEN / LIECHTENSTEIN T +49 308 9677 7774 / CUSTOMERSERVICE.GEMSTONES@SWAROVSKI.COM WWW.SWAROVSKI-GEMS.COM
C O L O U R
T R E N D S Vianna Valerio B
Elke BBerr errr err
Charlotte Ronson, using Pantone Russet. The must-have fashion item: Spanish ﬂoral spaghetti-strap dress with rufﬂed handkerchief hemline.
Nanette Lepore, using Pantone Honeysuckle. The must-have fashion item: This spring is about convertible dressing – jackets that double as shirts, outerwear as light as a dress.
Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Colour Report port Spring S 2011.
Visit us at: Baselworld - The World Watch and Jewellery Show March 24 - 31, 2011 Hall 3.0 - Stand C60
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C O L O U R
T R E N D S Jolie B. RRay ay
Cynthia Gale Geo Art
Rebecca Taylor, using Pantone Coral Rose. The must-have fashion item: Our tea-length, smocked-waist skirt, in Kelly Green of course!
Tibi, using Pantone Beeswax. The must-have fashion item: Itâ€™s not an item for spring, itâ€™s a head-to-toe look, an Ochre top with matching Ochre pant. Opera Omnia
Fashion F hi sketches, k h quotes, and d colours l are courtesy off Pantone Fashion Colour olour Report Repo eport rt Spring Spr g 2011. 2011.
C O L O U R
T R E N D S Toby Pomeroy
Bruner Jorg Heinz
Ella Moss by Pamela Protzel Scott, using Pantone Silver Cloud. The must-have fashion item: The maxi skirt in silk chiffon prints and washed cotton voiles â€“ this silhouette pairs nicely with loose casual tees.
Skagen Denmark Bastian
Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Colour Report Spring 2011.
Tommy HilďŹ ger, using Pantone Regatta. The must-have fashion item: The tennis skirt is a fresh, quirky take on a staple American pastime.
David Lin Jades
Rodney Rayner a anna Vianna
Daniela Swaebe Gumuchian
Carlos Campos, using Pantone Lavender. The must-have fashion item: Our button down wrap dress in Rosa. Vendorafa
Monique Lhuillier, using Pantone Silver Peony. The must-have fashion item: A shimmery cocktail dress with ombre sequins.
The Fifth Season
Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Colour Report Spring 2011.
T R E N D S
C O L O U R S 3
Flowers remain one of the popular themes in both fashion and jewellery. From simple stylistic designs to elaborate and realistic tic petals, petals stems, stems and leaves made of colourful gemstones and diamonds, ﬂower creations add a touch of splendour to any outﬁt, no matter what season of the year. y
1. Flower brooch roooch made m dee in gold ma gooldd from m a real r a ﬂower ﬂﬂow o er by Vajra V jraa (Korea). Va (KKor orea reaa) 2. 2 Gold Gooldldd and nd diamond ring by Manoel Bernardes (Brazil). 3. Gemstone and diamond necklace by E & V Jewellery ell (Hong Kong). 4. South Sea golden pearl and diamond earrings by Jewelmer (Philippines). 5. Gemstone and diamond ring by Piaget (Switzerland). 6. Gemstone and diamond ring by Goldesign (Brazil). 7. Gemstone and diamond ring by Gay Freres (France). 8. Shoe by Luciano Padovan (photo: AS). 9. Outﬁt by Dolce & Gabbana (photo: AS).
14 14 13
10. Ruby and diamond earrings by Green G (Hong Kong). 11. Gold, enamel, and diamondd ring bbyy Masriera (Spain). 12. Baroque South Sea pearl and diamond brooch by Assael International natitioonall nation (USA). 13. Gemstone and diamond brooch by Unicorn (Hong Kong). 14. Gemstone brooch ch by ch Zorab (Thailand). 15. Sapphire and diamond ring by Goldiaq (Hong Kong). 16. Diamond ndd and tsavorite ring by Aspire Designs (Hong Kong). 17. Enamel and gold brooch by Hidalgoo (USA) (USA). 18. OutďŹ t by Isaac Mizrahi (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).
T R E N D S
C O L O U R S 3
4 2 2 1 5
LACY LOOKS The open, airy, and lacy look is a popular trend both in jewellery and fashion. Although a style in its own right, lacy designs also offer a larger look with a lighter weight, especially since prices of precious metals have soared over the last few years. With designs inspired by nature, architecture, geometry, and freeform shapes, the lacy look is evoked in a variety of metals, gemstones, pearls, diamonds, and even wood.
1. Gold and diamond pendant by Ramon (USA). 2. Gold and diamond ring by Alberian&Aude (USA). 3. Gemstone, gold, and diamond earrings by John Apel (USA). 4. Gold and diamond pendant by Luca Carati (Italy). 5. Gold and diamond brooch by Aspire Designs (Hong Kong). 6. Ebony, diamond, and gold bracelet by Raffaella Mannelli (Italy). 6. Gold cuff by Carla Amorim (Brazil). 7. OutďŹ t by Zigman (photo: Dubrovnik Fashion Week).
10 10 10
99.. Dia DDiamond Di amo and gold pendant by LeVian (USA). 10. Gold pendant by Daniel Espinosa (Mexico). 111. Gold and diamond pendant by Bapalal Keshavlal (India). 12. Diamond, pearl, and gold pendant by Yael Designs (USA). 13. Gold and diamond cuff by Ole Lynggaard (Denmark). 14. Silver cuff by Metalsmith Sterling (Canada). 15. Gold, diamond, and ruby pendant by Jewellery Theatre (Russia). 16. OutďŹ t by BCBG Max Azria (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).
T R E N D S
C O L O U R S 2 3
STILL CHARMING 4
Charms have undergone a number of evolutions over the years, but their popular continues unabated. Not only found on bracelets, these little jewels grace earrings, rings, and even pendants. Perhaps their greatest appeal is that they can be personalized, evoking everything from love to lifestyle, from a favourite pet to a favourite vacation, in a variety of metals and gemstones. They are indeed still charming.
1. Gold and diamond charm by Garel (France). 2. Charm ring in pink gold, white gold, and diamonds by Ramon (Spain). 3. Gold, diamond, and enamel charm bracelet by Roberto Coin (Italy). 4. Onyx, silver, and enamel charm bracelet by Luxenter (Spain). 5. Silver and enamel “Summer Lover” charm bracelet by Ti Sento (The Netherlands). 6. Outﬁt by Alexandre Herchcovitch (photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).
7. Variety of charms on a leather bracelet by Ole Lynggaard (Denmark). 8. Charms and bracelet in 18K gold by Commelin (France). 9. Message charm bracelet by Heather Moore (USA). 10. Gold and diamond teddy bear charm by Salvini (Italy). 11. Gold and enamel “Dog” charm bracelet by Rosato (Italy). 12. Doggie charm bracelet in gold and enamel by Meche (USA). 13. Outﬁt by Naeem Khan (photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).
T R E N D S
C O L O U R S 2
BLACK IS THE NEW BLACK
Mysterious, sensual, and sophisticated, black continues to be one of the basic colours for 2011, whether in the little black dress or in the little black jewel. In jewellery, black is interpreted by pearls, diamonds, sapphires,, onyz, y , jet, j , jade, j , and blackened a number of black blac cke k need ed metals. metals
7 5 6
1. Black titanium and silver pendant by Mirella (USA). 2. Onyx and silver pendant by Scott Kay (USA). 3. Onyx and diamond earrings by Kenzo (France). 4. Black and white diamond earrings by John Apel (USA). 5. Blackened metal earrings by K.Brunini (USA). 6. Black jade carved dragon belt buckle by David Lin Jades (USA). 7. OutďŹ t by Brioni (photo: Tashkent Fashion Week).
8. Onyx and tu turquoise pendant by Syna (USA). 9. Onyx and diamond earrings by Ivanka Trump (USA). pearl and diamond earring by Assael International (USA). 11. Black diamond and 10. Black Tahitian Ta goldld ring by Garavelli (Italy). 12. Tungsten carbide ring by Frederick Goldman (USA). 13. Black and white diamond ring by Diamond Shadows (USA). 14. Ceramic and diamond ring by Etienne Perret (USA). 15. OutďŹ t by Carlos Miele (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).
T R E N D S
C O L O U R S 2
PURE WHITE 4
In the strict sense of the term, white is not a colour but the presence of all colours combined, giving it a complete energy. With its cool qualities, white is thought to provide clarity and purity. In jewellery, elegant white designs are created with jade, agate, gold, silver, pearls, ceramic, diamonds, and quartz, among others.
1. Diamond, rock crystal, and gold pendant by Casato (Italy). 2. Diamond and South SSea white pearl earrings by Autore (Australia). 3. Jade and diamond pendant by David Lin Jades (USA). 4. Pearl and diamond earrings by Mathon Paris (France). 5. Agate and gold ring by Ramon (Spain). 6. Shoes by Tosca Blu (photo: AS). 7. OutďŹ t by Isaac Mizrahi (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).
8. Diamond and South Sea pearl earrings by Staurino (Italy). 9. Quartz, gold, and diamond ring by Bruner (Brazil). 10. Agate and gold earrings by Goldiaq (Hong Kong). 11. White ceramic, black diamond, and gold ring by Leaderline (Italy). 12. Octea Sport Ultra White watch by Swarovski (Austria). 13. White ceramic and coloured diamond ring by Etienne Perret (USA). 14. OutďŹ t by Christophe Guillarme (photo: Christophe Guillarme).
T R E N D S
C O L O U R S
COLOUR COMBOS Nothing evokes okes Spring Spr like a rainbow of colours both in fashion shion and an in jewellery. From simple to sophisticated, t d jewellery designers from around the world offer a multitude of wonderful and creative colour combos.
1. Multi-co Multi-coloured M ulti-coloured gem gemstone emsttone ring by Isabelle Langlois Lan a glois (France). 2. Mutli-coloured oured ge gemstone emst and emstone diamond mondd ring i by b HHH Gems G (Hong KKong). (H ong)). 33.. M Multi-coloured ultltii-collouredd sap sapphire phihire andd didiamondd ne necklace cklklace bby Eclatt JJewels l (USA). (USA) S 44. Multi-coloured M lti l d sapphire, hi pearl,l andd didiamondd earrings i bby GGuilherme ilh Duque (Brazil). 5. Multi-coloured gemstone bracelet by Tresor (USA). 6. OutďŹ t by Tsumori Chisato (photo: Tashkent Fashion Week).
7.7 Mu Multi-coloured M lti-coloured gemstone and diamond earrings by Lorenz Baumerr (F (France). France) 88. Ge Gemstone mstonne and gold pendant by Marco Bicego (Italy). 9. Multi-coloured gemstone pendant by Yael Designs (USA). 10. Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond ring by Jewellery Theatre (Russia). 11. Multicoloured gemstone and pearl earrings by Elena Martinico (Italy). 12. Chair by Cappellini (photo: AS). 13. OutďŹ t by Agatha Ruiz De La Prada (photo: Cibeles Madrid).
T R E N D S
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UNDERWATER TREASURES Among the themed jewellery collections, the marine environment is one of the most popular, evoking ﬁsh, octopus, snails, and other creatures of the deep crafted in a variety of gemstones, metals, and diamonds. Whether representing realistic creations, playful pieces, or stylized interpretations, they are certainly wonderful underwater treasures.
1. “Sapphire and diamond “Jewels Verne” ﬂying ﬁsh brooch by Stephen Webster (Britain). 2. Multi-coloured gemstone brooch from “Les Voyages Extraordinaires” by Van Cleef & Arpels (France). 3. Opal, diamond, and gold brooch by Oscar Heyman (USA). 4. Multi-coloured gemstone and pearl brooch by Autore (Australia). 5. Gold seahorse charm by Commelin (France). 6. Diamond and pearl brooch by Assael International (USA). 7. Ruby, silver, and gold ring by Manya & Roumen (USA). 8. Outﬁt by Dolores Cortes (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).
9. Sapphire and diamond charm by Pippo Perez (Italy). 10. Diamond and ruby manta ray ring by Aspire Designs (Hong Kong). 11. Enamel and diamond pendant by Aaron Basha (USA). 12. Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond brooch by Lorenz Baumer (France). 13. Multi-colored gemstone and gold ring by Misis (Italy). 14. Opal, diamond, emerald, and gold brooch by Oscar Heyman (USA). 15. OutďŹ t by Gottex (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC). Background underwater image taken by Lornie Mueller, Lithos Jewelry (USA).
SIHH 2011 – SIH OPTI OPTIMISM AND NEOCLASSICISM NEOC The private and prestig prestigious Salon International de la Haute ended its 21st edition in January on a very Horlogerie (SIHH) ende optimistic note in Geneva Geneva, with trends in watches that favoured mostly a return to minima minimalism and classicism. Some brands, however, also offered ama amazing bejewelled timepieces. Multi-gemstone and diamond necklace in Les Voyages Extraordinaires collection by Van Cleef & Arpels.
White gold watch set with rubies, diamonds, sapphires, onyx, and emeralds in Les Voyages Extraordinaires collection by Van Cleef & Arpels.
Rubellite, diamond, and emerald ring in the Limelight Garden Party collection by Piaget.
By Cynthi Cynthia Unninayar The 2011 edition of the SIHH d deﬁnitely saw a change in mood from last year. After all the uncert uncertainties i of the previous couple of years, optimism was the word of the day as the 19 exhibiting brands showcased their wares to retailers from around the world. In fact, the show’s organizer and owner of many of the exhibiting brands, Geneva-based Richemont, reported that its retail sales increased 23 percent at constant exchange rates, excluding acquisitions, for the last quarter of 2010, and that its growth was broad-based, with the highest rate reported in the Asia-Paciﬁc region. Yet, retailers came not only from Asia (20 percent) but mainly from Europe (60 percent), with fewer numbers from North and South America (12 percent) and the Middle East (8 percent) to see the latest products of the participating brands (A.Lange & Söhne, Alfred Dunhill, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, JeanRichard, Girard Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Montblanc, Ofﬁcine Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Ralph Lauren, Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels). While “optimism” was the key word in terms of mood, the major trends in terms of product were “minimalism” and “classicism” with many brands thinking “thin” this year. For a detailed explanation of these current trends in ﬁne timekeeping at the SIHH, please see our sister publication, Europa Star, issue 1.11, which details many of the brands and their latest models. For this article, however, we take a look at those brands that (while they also offered important neoclassic models of prestige watchmaking) included examples of wonderfully creative high jewellery timepieces, studded with diamonds and coloured gems or masterfully decorated with enamel and other artistic crafts. While certainly a champion of the thin movement, Piaget also produces extraordinary bejewelled timepieces as well as beautiful jewellery. Continuing its Limelight Garden Party theme, the Geneva brand evokes
Diamond-set quartz watch in Cartier’s “Mille et une heures” collection. 34
a luxuriant garden where cherry blossoms have emerald stems, a diamond rose savours a quiet moment, a bird pauses to inspect a pearl, emeralds and diamonds form the cases of elegant watches, and where rubellites are visited by diamond-set birds. Piaget is indeed a master in both haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie. Van Cleef & Arpels also excels in the realm of fine watchmaking with pieces that combine intricate mechanical complications with highly decorated dials and cases. Famous for its jewellery, the French brand’s bejewelled timepieces are equally as impressive. Among the collections this year, it features Les Voyages Extraordinaires, where remarkable watches, inspired by books by Jules Verne, are presented in white gold cases with translucent paillonné enamel. Equipped with an 800P automatic movement, groups of four of these watches are sold in a limited series of 22, and presented in an elegant wooden cabinet whose lid is decorated with various wood inlays. Van Cleef & Arpels has also expanded the travel theme to include “extraordinary” dials evoking a variety of places that Jules Verne described in Five Weeks in a Balloon, including animals found in Africa and Antarctica, as well as a number of underwater motifs. The brand ends its colourful and extraordinary journey with a sumptuous high jewellery piece, where flowers and leaves are made of emeralds and sapphires, creepers are composed of diamonds, and two small monkeys with tails of black onyx and diamonds are entwined in the branches. Cartier has also taken a journey through time with a spectacular collection of jewellery watches, entitled Mille Et Une Heures (1001 hours), comprising 30 timepieces. Recalling the times of ancient India and the architecture of its sculptured palaces, these high jewellery watches feature arabesque motifs. Another exotic collection is its Great Tradition of Artistic Crafts. For more than 160 years, Cartier has placed artistic crafts at the core of its pieces, and this year, the brand has created six new timepieces that reinterpret the dignity of these artistic crafts in stone mosaics, gold cloisonné enamel, intaglio engravings, and wood marquetry. This exceptional menagerie includes a tortoise, polar bear, leopard, hummingbird, monkey, and brown bear, all brought to life by the hands of the brand’s highly skilled craftsmen. On a different note, Cartier combines its high jewellery predilection and its taste for technical complications in its Tourbillon and Crocodile watch, thus adding a new dimension to haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie. The overall ambiance at the SIHH was one of luxury, of course, but one brand created its own enchanting environment at the show— Baume & Mercier. The leitmotif of the brand’s communication is lifestyle, more specifically seaside living—“a way of life, which perfectly corresponds to the genuine values of conviviality, sharing, and durability” that are promoted by the watchmaker. Expressing this vision through family and friends,
High jewellery watch by Cartier.
Diamond and emerald watch in the Limelight Garden Party collection by Piaget.
Diamond and emerald ring in the Limelight Garden Party collection by Piaget.
Multi-gemstone and diamond brooch in Les Voyages Extraordinaires collection by Van Cleef & Arpels. 35
Richard Mille Tourbillon RM 026, featuring two bejewelled snakes wrapped around the tourbillon movement.
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Vintage 1945 Lady diamond watch in pink gold by Girard-Perregaux.
Jewellery version in the Linea line by Baume & Mercier.
Jewellery version of Audemars Piguet’s Jules Audemar Selfwinding watch.
the brand’s booth convincingly reproduced a delightful and relaxing seaside resort in the Hamptons on Long Island in New York. In keeping with this theme, the brand presented a contemporary interpretation of two of its most celebrated collections, the Capeland and Linea, along with new and more stylish examples of Classima, all evoking Baume & Mercier’s new dictum: Life is about moments. Among these moments are lovely contemporary jewellery pieces in the Linea line. Richard Mille continues the use of coloured gemstones in certain models, but this year, he does so in a rather provocative fashion. The Richard Mille Tourbillon RM 026, in a limited series of 15, features a diamond-set white gold case that harbours two snakes writhing in and around the tourbillon movement while holding it in place. The serpents are made of rubies, emeralds, and diamonds set in white gold, with a red coral tongue. Why snakes? “Serpents in mythology have complex roles that can be either good or evil. In connection with the positive properties of the black onyx base plate, they however take on a protective role,” says the brand. Richard Mille also makes different versions of the coupled snakes, including other coloured gems, engraved stones, or enamelled bodies. Undoubtedly, this piece is an elegant way to unite the powers of Nature and the ingenuity of prestige timekeeping. Other brands at the SIHH also showcased beautiful jewellery versions of their main collections, such as Audemars Piguet with its elegant diamond-set Jules Audemars Selfwinding models, Girard-Perregaux with its lovely Vintage 1945 Lady crafted in pink gold set with diamonds and its graceful Cat’s Eye pieces with their sensual curves, the sparkling all-diamond-pavé case of Ralph Lauren’s Stirrup Diamond Link watch, set with more than 1,500 diamonds, with a total of 12 different sized stones, and the bejewelled COSC-certified Excalibur Lady Jewellery by Roger Dubuis. As these exquisite examples demonstrate, fine jewellery and fine watchmaking can come together to create fine jewellery watches.
Leopard motif in Cartier’s Great Tradition of Artistic Crafts watch collection.
Cartier’s Tourbillon and Crocodile watch.
Ralph Lauren Stirrup Diamond Link watch, set with more than 1,500 diamonds.
VicenzaOro First Silver and diamond pendant by Bastian.
Opens Under the Banner of Innovation The first event in the VicenzaOro trilogy of trade fairs held in the historic Italian city of Vicenza opened its doors amid a general feeling of optimism for the sector and an ambitious program of new initiatives and major enhancements for the Italian jewellery industry. By Cynthia Unninayar “Silverfope” bracelet in an exclusive palladium and silver alloy by Fope.
Gold and diamond “Cleopatra” earrings by JJ Jewels.
Artist rendering of the new atrium for the future Vicenza fair.
The international gold, gems, jewellery, and related equipment event at VicenzaOro First ended on a positive note with a record 19,000 first-time admissions and an 8-percent increase in foreign buyers plus an increase of 2.5 percent in Italian buyers over last year, who came to see the products of 1488 exhibitors from Italy and 30 foreign nations. Fair officials had more to be happy about than the increased participation of prospective buyers, and announced a number of initiatives aimed at helping the Italian jewellery industry, explaining, “with markets changing, the Italian jewellery sector must orient itself towards new directions. Craftsmanship, manufacturing, innovation, and new communication make up the competitive edge of the ‘Made in Italy’ label, representing the added values of Italian jewellery that will serve as a springboard for launching such excellence throughout the world.”
Gold, diamond, and gemstone bracelet by Talento. 38
FDV 2011/15 The major change announced by the fair was a five-year strategy, called FDV 2011/15, whose goals are “consolidating the fair’s identity and focusing on the very essence of Italian jewellery, made of fine craftsmanship and research,
Enamel and silver bead bracelet by Bliss.
renewing its own exhibition concept, and launching new initiatives with the intention of bringing excellent ‘Made in Italy’ products to markets worldwide. This ambitious plan is intended to confirm Fiera di Vicenza as not only a central element of the worldwide exhibition system with particular reference to the jewellery sector, but also as a place of aggregation for Italian excellence and as a generator of cultural contents, ideas, and visions capable of offering creative thrusts to businesses.” It is no secret that over the last few years, the Italian (and global) jewellery sector has suffered, mostly due to a drop in demand and an increase in the cost of gold. Encouraging signs of recovery for Italian jewellery exports came in 2010, and the trend seems to be continuing in 2011. To take advantage of this trend, the FDV 2011/15 project will focus on the overall renovation of the exhibition space, a powerful web presence, important collateral events, the creation of a real reference network, and the establishment of new infrastructures and fair formats aimed at specific market segments. “A change of route is necessary for a sector in profound evolution whose key words are coherence and concreteness,” stated Fiera di Vicenza chairman, Roberto Ditri. Corrado Facco, the fair director added, “Our aim is to become the main point of reference in Europe for jewellery alongside Basel and at the same time back up the fair events with initiatives that animate and stimulate the companies and the town: shows, events, and installations to involve the surrounding territory as is the case in the most modern fair events all over the world.” Another element in the fair’s future activities is its active collaboration with international organizations such as the United Nations Institute for Training and Research, CIBJO, and the Responsible Jewellery Council to promote corporate social responsibility and ethical mining and manufacture. “The guarantee of ethics along the entire supply line is a specific request of consumers, representing a strong element of the marketing mix and a fundamental competitive edge,” said fair organizers. Design Directions The Nature theme was one of the main trends at this year’s fair, with snakes, butterflies, flowers, leaves, and the marine environment playing key roles. Colour was again prominent, continuing its trend in both gemstones and enamel, along with various colours of gold. Diamond jewellery, both white and fancy colours, remains a staple of Italian creativity, while silver has become the “new gold” as its glacial tonality is used to create elegant and fashionable designs. Freeform, organic, and textured looks continues to gain ground while rough stones, both diamonds and coloured gems, namely sapphires and emeralds, evoke a return to the natural environment. Lacy openwork pieces were seen in many collections, offering impressive pieces with lighter weights of precious metals. Diamond and gold “Blooming” brooch by Zydo.
Gold and rutilated quartz ring by Giovanni Ferraris.
Gold and gemstone ring by Nanis.
Diamond and gold “Daphne” ring by Casato.
Black diamond and pink gold bracelet by Mattia Cielo.
Gemstone and gold “Boule” rings by Chimento.
Lacy gold necklace by Daniela Neri.
Lacy gold cuff by DML.
Gold mesh ring by The Fifth Season.
Natural sapphire necklace by Yvel.
Ownership Changes Ebony, gold, and diamond bracelet by Raffaella Mannelli. Richline Group, Inc., a wholly-owned subsidiary of USA-based Berkshire Hathaway Inc., announced the acquisition of Arezzo-based Rosato Srl. “This is a great opportunity for my brand to grow and expand globally. I am sure we will be able to let the real Italian jewellery design be known and appreciated,” stated Simona Rosato. Richline president, Dave Meleski, added, “Simona Rosato and her team are the most innovative group in Italy and, with our financial support, they will be able to again focus on product and brand innovation. Rosato will once again excite the market and enable their loyal customers to expand their own market share.” On another note, Gitanjali Gems Ltd, India’s largest jewellery retailer, which had purchased Italian brand Valente Milano last September, announced the acquisition of a 90-percent stake in Milan-based Giantti Italia S.R.L., through its Dubai-based wholly owned subsidiary Gitanjali Ventures DMCC. Its press release also indicated that it would “pay about $11 million for the Italian brands Stefan Hafner, IO Si, Porrati, and Nouvelle Bague grouped under the BLU Srl umbrella, with funds going to their creditors, and would inject another $10 million over a year into the companies. The brands were previously owned by now bankrupt DIT Group, a unit of Dubai debt-laden jewellery group Damas International.” Gem World and Glamroom Now staple components of the VicenzaOro scene, the two sections of Gem World and Glamroom grouped together gem dealers and jewellery designers, respectively, who showcased a wide variety of products. Among the many interesting Glamroom participants was returning German brand Bastian, offering a selection of modern silver creations set with diamonds, and Italian brand EcoJewel Gemstone and recycled gold earrings by EcoJewel. showcasing pieces made from enamel and precious, recycled materials (gold and silver from old jewellery and manufacturing scraps). This year, EcoJewel also featured elegant jewellery made from recycled gems taken from jewellery that was destined to be melted or dismantled—a perfect match for the brand’s recycled gold and silver. Vicenza will again be in the global spotlight for fine jewellery at its spring fair, May 21 to 25, 2011. (www.vicenzafiera.it) Micro-mosaic, gemstone, and gold “Cupola” ring by Le Sibille.
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Jewels in the Desert While many parts of the USA were buried in snow, jewellery brands and gem dealers came to the desert city of Tucson to showcase their products at a variety of events. By Cynthia Unninayar
Multi-coloured gemstone earring by Bellarri. Zultanite and diamond earrings by Rhonda Faber Green. Diamond and eco-gold “Globo” earrings by Garavelli.
Amethyst and gold ring by Centurion Emerging Designer, William Belack
Zultanite and diamond ring by Erica Courtney.
During the month of February, the southern Arizona city of Tucson became the prime destination for gemstone and jewellery buyers and designers. The shows kicked off with the prestigious byinvitation-only Centurion jewellery event, which took place in an elegant resort hotel. Then, AGTA, GJX, GLDA, and AGGJS opened their doors to thousands of gem dealers and buyers— as well as an increasing number of jewellery designers—from around the globe. While these shows were limited to the trade, the rest of the city opened hotel rooms, tents, trailers, and just about everything else to the public, where thousands of collectors, connoisseurs, and the simply curious could shop for a wide variety of gemstones, minerals, fossils, sculptures, and just about anything else related to the world of stones. Centurion, Laid-Back Luxury Celebrating its tenth anniversary this year was Centurion, a show that we could very well categorize as “Laid-Back Luxury.” In an ambiance that was warm, intimate, and relaxed, retailers were able to examine and purchase a wide variety of products from Centurion’s upmarket brands. And, it seems that purchase they did, this year, as the recovery gets underway. “Exhibitor and retailer reports coming throughout and after Centurion 2011 reflected great satisfaction with this year’s event quality and results,” stated Centurion president Howard Hauben, adding that show attendance was strong, and up “36 percent over the 2010 show.” It was also announced that next year’s show will move to a location in the Phoenix area. Now in its second year, Centurion’s Emerging Designer contest produced six winners who were given display space at the show. They represented diverse facets of fine jewellery design from around the world, and offered retailers a look at new approaches and new faces. This year, Centurion also held its first Design Awards Competition, judged by retailers from all over the USA who voted for more than 80 exhibitor entries in 11 categories. “The calibre of creativity of each entry was simply amazing,” said Centurion President Howard Hauben, who added that it will become an annual event.
Agate and diamond pendant by S&R Designs.
Silver necklace in the “Veritas” collection by Franco Pianegonda.
Rutilated quartz and black diamond earrings by Suna Bros.
Matching diamond wedding bands by Furrer-Jacot.
Lots of Colour In spite of the weather issues in much of the USA, the AGTA fair reported a five-percent increase in buyer attendance from last year. “It was nice to see an increase in traffic, but the real success of the show was the atmosphere on the show floor, with a significant upswing in buying activity,” stated Douglas K. Hucker, AGTA CEO. Buying was reportedly strong for finished products as well as loose coloured stones as retailers realize the importance of adding colour to their product line-up as a way to improve profitability. Good interest and traffic was also seen in the Spectrum of Design Pavilion, outside of the main AGTA halls. Paula Crevoshay reported that this show’s traffic was higher than ever in the past, declaring that “The show proved to be the most successful from the last 30 years.” More international in nature, the GJX housed a wide range of gem dealers, jewellery manufacturers, small brands, and artisans, as well as national pavilions for many nations such as Germany and Brazil, among many others.
Platinum and diamond ring by Norman Silverman (winner, Centurion’s Bridal category). Platinum and pear-shaped diamond (34.22 cts) necklace by Uneek Jewelry (winner, Centurion’s Platinum category).
Yellow and white diamond bracelet by Goldstein Diamonds.
Mikado diamond and gold bracelets by A.Link.
MARKETPLACE Necklace in argentium sterling silver, forged and woven, with garnets by Centurion Emerging Designer, Valerie Ostenak.
“Soufﬂé” pearl necklace by Sea Hunt, diamond clasp by Lornie Mueller, Lithos Jewelry.
Paraiba and green tourmaline earrings by Golconda.
Just about every colour, size, shape, and cut of stone could be seen at these Tucson shows. While no speciﬁc trend or colour was observed, there was a notable increase in rough and sliced coloured gems, from emeralds to sapphires to diamonds, which designers will be quick to add to their “natural” ﬁnished jewellery collections that continue to gain in popularity. Rutilated quartz in all colours was a favourite of many jewellers, as were the various hues of spinel and tourmaline. The Turkish-mined zultanite was the focus of much attention at Centurion where a number of well-known jewellery designers used this enigmatic colour-changing variety of the mineral diaspore in a range of beautiful creations. Raw diamond earrings by Todd Reed.
Golden pearl, diamond, and gold earrings by Centurion Emerging Designer, Kavant.
Onyx and diamond ring by Umane.
In terms of pearls, the traditional strands of all colours were in abundance, as were lariats mixed with gems and diamonds. A few necklaces of rare conch pearls were seen at both Centurion and the gem shows. Among the more unusual pearls that attracted attention were the very lightweight “Soufﬂé” pearls, so-named by Jack Lynch of Sea Hunt Pearls. He explained that these large freshwater pearls are half the weight of the normal freshwater variety because they are hollow. He suggests that the pearl growers probably placed something in the pearl sac—perhaps some sort of mud—that would dissolve and break down during the growth process, thus leaving a hollow but sturdy lighter weight pearl. Conch pearl necklace by Tara.
IIJS Signature 2011 Show report The IIJS Signature 2011 opened its doors in its new Mumbai location this year for the 4th edition of this renowned international show. CIJ Trends & Colours’ Alexandra Montandon was there to follow events and discover new jewellery trends. By Alexandra Montandon
The Show The IIJS Signature Show is particularly appreciated for its focus on precious jewellery, loose diamonds and coloured gemstones and its recent move from Goa to Mumbai has allowed the organisers to introduce new features to the show. A new “Signature Club” section is specially dedication to companies manufacturing high-end jewellery, and a new International Pavilion exhibits international designers from around the world. Mumbai now represents the jewellery hub of India with two shows in January and August and confirms India’s place as a major player in the gem & jewellery industry. Exports up an impressive 15.52 percent The Indian jewellery industry showed a remarkable increase in exports in 2010 with figures up 15. 52 percent (US$ 37,118.42 million) compared to 2009, which was supported by a strong domestic market. In a face-to-face interview, Mr. Rajiv Jain, Chairman of the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) and Mr. Sanjay Kothari, GJEPC Vice Chairman underlined that India embraces competition that will in turn help to encourage the Indian manufacturers to continue to increase their quality. “If we are good enough, we fear no other country,” explains Jain. The difficult economic situation had a positive effect as it obliged more innovation and more creation. “The trend is less gold and more stones, the jewellery looks bigger and is less expensive,” he continues. Both Jain and Kothari are very confident in the role that the GJEPC can play on the world market, adding 46
that the growing community will help the global market and as Jain explains, “As long as women are on earth, jewellery will always be worn.” New initiatives One of the Council initiatives is to bring together a pool of Indian artisans in workshops who will train under the guidance of international specialists. The goal is to help these artisans to complement their traditional crafts with more cutting edge techniques. Exhibitors IIJS Signature 2011 registered 400 exhibitors with approximately 800 booths this year. Delegations from the UK, UAE, Thailand, Libya, Vietnam, Azerbaijan, Uzbekistan and Myanmar were all present. The feedback from the exhibitors was extremely positive; they all found the show to be a very good platform to meet customers. Some remarked that the new Mumbai show was more exclusive, with fewer people in the halls, but that there was far more time to sit down and discuss with retailers, which they appreciated. “India Show” at BaselWorld 2011 An “India Show” will take place at BaselWorld 2011 with 60 Indian manufacturers in attendance. The Indian government has offered its complete support to the GJEPC and its presence at BaselWorld as part of a national government campaign to promote Indian culture at the global level. BaselWorld will have a taste of India this year with Indian cuisine in the restaurant in Hall 6, traditional dance from different regions of India performed in front of Hall 1, and a presentation of high-end jewellery pieces in the India Gallery in Hall 2. So if you didn’t make it to Mumbai this year, don’t miss a selection of India’s finest artistic creations at BaselWorld. 47
editorial & advertisers index A. Link 43 Couture Show 45 Aaron Basha 33 Cynthia Gale 16 Agatha Ruiz De La Prada 31 Daniel Espinosa 23 Alberian & Aude 22 Daniela Neri 40 Alexandre Herchcovitch 24 Daniela Swaebe 19 Alpilex CIII David Lin Jades 19, 26, 28 Antonini 19 Diamond Shadows 27 Aspire Designs 11, 21, 22, 33 DML 40 Assael Intl CII, 1, 21, 27, 32 Dolce & Gabbana 20 Audemars Piguet 36 E&V Jewellery 20 Autore 28, 32 Eclat Jewels 30 Bangkok Fair 41 EcoJewels 40 Bapalal Keshavlal 23, 9, 12 Elena Martinico 31 Bastian 18, 38 Ella Moss 18 BCBG Max Azira 23 Erica Courtney 42 Bellari 42 Etienne Perret 27, 29 BK Jewellery 17 Fope 38 Bliss 39 Franco Pianegonda 43 Bogh-Art 16 Frederick Goldman 27 Bosway 18 Furrer-Jacot 43 Brioni 26 Garavelli 27, 42 Bruner 18, 29 Garel 24 Cappellini 31 Gay Frères 20 Carla Amorim 22 Geen G 18, 21 Carlos Campos 19 Giovanni Ferraris 39 Carlos Miele 27 Girard Perregaux 36 Cartier 34-36 GJEPC CIV Casato 16, 28, 39 Golconda 44 Charlotte Ronson 14 Goldesign 12, 20 Chimento 39 Goldiaq 21, 29 Chisato 30 Goldstein Diamonds 43 CIJ Jewellery PM Page 1 Christophe Guillarme Ad 29 12/6/10 Gottex4:31 33 Commelin 25, 32 Guilherme Duque 30
Gumuchian 3, 19 Heather Moore 25 HH Gems 30 Hidalgo 21 ICA Congress Brazil 37 IIJS 46-47 Isaac Mizrahi 21, 28 Isabelle Langlois 30 Ivanka Trump 27 Jewellery Theatre 23, 31 Jewelmer 5, 8, 20 JJ Jewels 38 John Apel 22, 26 Jolie B. Ray 16 Jorg Heinz 18 K. Brunini 26 Kavant 44 Kenzo 26 Le Sibile 40 Leaderline 29 LeVian 23 Lithos Jewelry 33, 44 Lorenz Baumer 31, 33 Lornie Mueller 33 Luca Carati 22 Luciano Padovan 20 Luxenter 24 Manoel Bernardes 20 Manya & Roumen 32 Marco Bicego 31 Masriera 21 Mathon Paris 16, 28 Mattia Cielo 39
Meche 25 Metalsmith Sterling 23 Mi Piaci 14 Mirella 26 Misis 33 Monique Lhuillier 19 Naeem Khan 25 Nanette Lepore 14 Nanis 39 Nary Manivong 12 Norman Silverman 43 Ole Lynggaard 23, 25 Opera Omnia CI, 6-7, 16 Oscar Heyman 32-33 Paula Crevoshay 12 Piaget 20, 34-35 Pippo Perez 33 Raffaella Mannelli 22, 40 Ralph Lauren 36 Ramon 10, 14, 22, 24, 28 Rebecca Taylor 16 Rhonda Faber Green 42 Richard Mille 36 Roberto Coin 24 Rodney Rayner 19 Rosato 25 Rosy Blue 15 Sakgen Denmark 18 Salvini 25 Scott Kay 26 Sevan 14 Staurino 29 Stephen Webster 12, 32
Stuller 16 Suna Bros 43 Swarovski 13, 29 Syna 27 Talento 38 Tara 44 Tarditi 18 The Fifth Season 19, 40 Ti Sento 24 Tibi 16 Toby Pomeroy 18 Todd Reed 44 Tommy Hilfiger 18 Tosca Blu 28 Tresor 12, 30 Tsumori 30 Umane 44 Uneek Jewelry 43 Unicorn 21 Utopia 18 Vajra 20 Valerie Ostenak 44 Valerio B 14 Van Cleef & Arpels 32, 34-35 Vendorafa 19 Vianna 14, 19 William Belack 42 Yael Designs 23, 31 Yael Sonia 14 Yvel 40 Zîgman 22 Zorab 21 Zydo 39
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