Page 1

No 295 / Summer 2012


Las Vegas Couture 2012 Lafite Ballroom Booth 105

J O C H E N P O H L .C O M


E D I TO R ’ S

L E T T E R

CONTINUING COLOUR With the cold weather behind us—at least in the northern hemisphere for those of you reading this Down Under—we are entering another summer, a season full of colour in both fashion and jewellery. With lots of colour on the runways, we also see jewellery de designers coming out with statement-making, vibrantly coloured gemstone pieces. Some are now mentioning Pantone’s colour picks, which we have been featuring for the last two years, and are basing their creations on such tones as “Tangerine Tango,” among other Spring/Summer 2012 shades. In our Winter trends guide, in addition to featuring the top ten trends in jewellery de design, we highlighted the main colours for the S/S 2012 season. In this issue, we con continue with a peek at Pantone’s Fall 2012 palette for fashion, and suggest examples of matching jewellery. The strongest colour, and a continuation from S/S 2012, is the bright orange of Tangerine Tango. The other nine are featured in our “Colour Trends” section. In our “Trends & Colours” section, we feature four of the most popular gemstone colours—orange, blue, green, and violet. It has been a very busy Winter and Spring fair season, and we report here on the many interesting and creative pieces seen from A to V, from Amberif, i n Poland, to Vicenza, in Italy, passing by Geneva, Basel, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Tucson, Phoenix, and Doha. Following the visit to Gdansk to attend Amberif, we highlight this fascinating living gemstone in the article “Amber’s Attractive Appeal.” In addition to the wide range of amber creations at the show, we were impressed by the laboratory, organized by the fair, which provided free testing of any amber—set or unset. The fair is quite strict about keeping fakes out and enforces the rule that its exhibitors provide full disclosure of any treatments—another way to ensure buyers that they are purchasing “the real deal.” Disclosure has become an issue in our industry, with a few unscrupulous dealers selling synthetics or “enhanced” stones as natural. We saw this firsthand at a recent fair, where a retailer purchased 35 lots of stones, only to have them checked by an synthetexpert who found that all but two were misrepresented—they were either synthet ics or were subject to treatments that were not disclosed. The story ended well, however, as she and the gemmologist confronted the seller, and eventually got the money back. While there is certainly nothing wrong with selling treated or synthetic stones, the key word is “disclosure.” In this regard, see the article in this issue “Buyer Beware – Is it Natural, Treated, or Synthetic?” Our usual designer profiles, a review of the book “The Myth of the Million Dollar Di$hrag,” and page of testimonials about CIJ Trends & Colours, round out this issue. We look forward to meeting many of you at the upcoming shows, and in the meantime, enjoy your summer.

Cynthia A gown by Barbara Tfank, using the Pantone colours of Pink Flambé and Honey Gold. 08

Cynthia Unninayar Editor-in-Chief / CIJ Trends & Colours


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IN THIS ISSUE

On the Cover

Model wearing jewellery from Rebecca’s Half Moon collection, a perfect way to dress up a little black dress and a black feather shawl.

Cover Feature on page 16

www.rebecca.it www.testiusa.com

70

20

Marketplace BaselWorld – Italian Design

Antonini

Editor’s Letter 08

Continuing Colour

16

Rebecca – What the Buzz Is All About

20 22 24 26 68

Antonini Evokes the Colours of the Roman Sky Pamela Huizenga – High-End and Handmade Yael Sonia – Perpetually in Motion Vianna Brasil – Pretty in Paraïba New Addition to Opera Luxury Trading

30

Colours Moving into Fall/Winter 2012

40 44

Amber’s Attractive Appeal Buyer Beware – Is It Natural, Treated, Or Synthetic?

50

The Myth of the Million-Dollar Di$hrag

70 76 78 82 86 92 94

BaselWorld 2012 – Tempered Optimism VicenzaOro Winter – Showcasing Italian Style SIHH – From Grand Complications to Bejewelled Elegance Accent on Design at Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair Destination Doha Hong Kong IJS – Another Record Year 40 Jewels Dazzle in the Desert Gemstones – NAC Amber

96

Index

Cover Feature Profiles

52 Organic Orange – Dietrich

Colours Trends Gemstones

Books

Trends & Colours 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66

Organic Orange Born to be Blue Pretty in Purple Gorgeous Greens Birds of a Feather On the Edge The Year of the Dragon Golden Luxury

Marketplace

Freely Speaking 97

Bringing People Together

Opinions 98

Why People Are So Excited about CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS

58 Gorgeous Greens – Victor Mayer

30 Colours Trends – Nanette Lapore

Editor#YNTHIA5NNINAYARsContributors$IANA3:IMMERMAN 42&LORA 2AYAN)NNUE !NTONELLA3CORTA sAdvertising contacts Alexandra Montandon amontandon@europastar.com T. +41 22 307 7847 / Nathalie Glattfelder nglattfelder@europastar.com T. +41 22 307 7832 / Italy - Alessandra Arati aarati@studioarati.it T. +39 024 851 7853 / Spain - Carles Sapena csapena@europastar.es T. +34 93 112 7113 / Asia - Maggie Tong maggietong@europastar.com 4 )NDIA "HUPAL0OTDARBHUPALPOTDAR GMAILCOM4 53! +AREN.UCKOLSKNUCKOLS #)*INTLCOM4 sGraphic Design,AURENCE#HATENOUD 4ASHA5NNINAYARsManaging Director 0HILIPPE-AILLARDsOn the Web at: www.CIJintl.com and www.worldwatchweb.com - Published by Europastar HBM SA - 25 Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland - Tel: +41.22.307.7837; Fax: +41.22.300.3748; Email: contact@CIJintl.com 0RINTEDIN'ENEVABY32/ +UNDIGs#OPYRIGHTBY%UROPA3TARsWWWEUROPASTARCOM All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of CIJ International Jewellery.


Flower Collection


cover feature

REBECCA – WHAT THE BUZZ IS ALL ABOUT

Watamu earrings.

After a record-breaking 2011, Rebecca is poised to again triumph in 2012 with a variety of new collections that have the jewellery world buzzing. By Barbara Wheat

Half Moon and Half Moon Glam cuffs.

Devil pendant.

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Already a favourite of fashion editors and stylists, Rebecca’s Half Moon Glam, Cashmere Devil, Devil, and Half Moon collections have taken the jewellery world by storm. For 2012, designer Alessandro Testi has done it again and has launched five fabulous new collections, including a fresh array of elegant timepieces, with cases made of gold over bronze. Equipped with Japanese quartz movements, the new watches are water-resistant and feature the brand’s proprietary iconic “glam film” or “shimmering overlay.” At the prestigious BaselWorld show in Switzerland, the unveiling of the Soleil Collection attracted great interest. Made of gold or rhodium over bronze with white shimmering overlay, its glistening interlocking rings add glamour to any outfit. The Watamu Collection, in rose gold over bronze, takes the iconic Rebecca look to a new luxurious level with semi-precious stones and Swarovski crystal pavé in daring new colours. The Louis XIV Collection (rhodium and gold over bronze) includes elegant shimmering styles embellished with coloured stones, while the Half Moon Summer Collection comes in eight dazzling hues for the summer season (rhodium over bronze with various tones of shimmering overlay). The bold Devil and Cashmere Devil collections, featuring paisley and Italian motifs, are made with a special celluloid called “French Ivory” combined with rose gold and rhodium in several colours. In the midst of uncertain market conditions, Rebecca has built a strong brand identity and become a market leader in the fashion jewellery segment. With the rising prices of gold and customers’ hesitation to purchase karat gold pieces, Rebecca has proven to be the perfect choice using bronze with sterling silver or 18K gold overlay. Its stylish designs combine innovative techniques to create fashion-forward pieces for today’s active lifestyles, and at very affordable price points (ranging from $150 to $500). In terms of innovation, the brand’s “glam film” or “shimmering overlay” used in many of Rebecca’s designs is created by a special laser process that ripples the surface of the metal to form micro-prisms that refract light to create a dazzling diamond-like sparkle. This effect is especially striking in the Half Moon and Soleil collections.


Half Moon and Griffe pendants. Rebecca timepiece with Shimmering Overlay.

Cashmere Devil cuff and earrings.

Three Soleil cuffs.

Now more than ever, retailers are looking to Rebecca to produce fashionable, luxurious jewellery at an affordable price point. True to form, Rebecca has not only answered the market call, but has exceeded expectations. Jennifer Hornick from Jae’s Jewelers in Coral Gables, Florida explains, “We thought the Melrose Collection was fantastic when we first signed on with the brand, but then came Griffe, which outperformed even that, and now, the Half Moon Collection is simply flying out the door! We continue to be impressed with Rebecca’s ability to develop new, fresh looks that become fast bestsellers!” Armen Darakjian, owner of Darakjian Jewelers in Southfield, Michigan says, “Visiting Rebecca at BaselWorld is always a must. And, the brand’s new collection did not disappoint. It is another extension of Rebecca, which certainly has its thumb on the pulse of the trends. For today’s woman, who wants or needs to be on the forefront of fashion, Rebecca is a great self-purchase. Priced amazingly well, Rebecca’s pieces look like they have come off the pages of the most iconic fashion magazines.” “Our retailers are our partners,” says Raffaele Capoferro, president of Rebecca USA, adding, “and the brand has a strong national and regional advertising presence as well as a retailer co-op program. Rebecca thus provides the exposure that retailers need to drive consumers to the store.” Coupled with ever-present editorial articles—including a recent mention in InStyle magazine featuring the Half Moon cuff—Rebecca has the perfect blend of marketing to ensure that each retailer is properly supported. Although the new collections have only been previewed for a few weeks, top fashion editors are already racing to get their hands on the new lines. “This market is an exciting opportunity for Rebecca,” continues Mr. Capoferro. “With signature designs, the quality of fine Italian craftsmanship, and the unbeatable prices, the world is taking notice more than ever before. With each piece of jewellery backed by a two-year warranty, Rebecca is a risk-free, glamorous alternative to the karat gold jewellery that customers love.” With the 2012 collections already proving to be a hit, what better time than to become part of the Rebecca Retailer Network… For more information, visit Rebecca at the Couture Show, Salon #810. (www.rebecca.it) 17


profile

Antonini Evokes the Colours of the Roman Sky

Extraordinaire

The 2012 collection of the Milan-based brand is dedicated to Rome, the Eternal City, with a variety of elegant and colourful pieces featuring the moonstone. By Cynthia Unninayar

Inspired by the Roman sky, Antonini has created its new collection, Roma, with the same high quality, formal classicism, and balance of forms and volumes that the brand is so well known for. The centrepiece of the new Roma is the moonstone. “We wanted to do something new with moonstones,” says Sergio Antonini, the creative force behind the brand. “We like its shimmer and the light it gives off, so we came up with a special cut and surrounded it with colourful gemstones.” The special moonstone cut has four triangular sides, reminiscent of a smooth pyramid, that enhance the stone’s soft opalescence. Surrounding the central moonstone are two types of colours—orange and red for the warmer tones, and blue and green for the cooler palette. Representing the warmer varieties are sapphires, rhodolite, and smoky quartz, while the cool tones use sapphires, aquamarine, and peridot. The elegant shimmer of the moonstones is highlighted by gently curved gold frames set with diamonds, which accentuate the softness of the cabochon cut and the details of the claw setting of the central moonstone. Suspended from the golden frames are cascades of colourful stones, which heighten the movement and sparkle of the pendants and earrings. For the orange and red colours, the stones are paired with rose gold, while the blue and green gems are set in white gold and black rhodium. The results are elegantly sophisticated pieces, evoking classicism while being very contemporary and fashionable. And, of course, all are crafted with the same quality and workmanship that the Made in Italy brand represents. While Roma has taken off in a big way for 2012, the award-winning Antonini also continues its previous bestselling lines, such as Porto Cervo, Anniversary, Barcellona, and Panama, among others. We must also mention the superb one-of-kind Extraordinaire pieces that are eagerly awaited by Antonini’s global clientele. For more on the brand’s beautiful jewellery, visit its booth at the Couture show in Las Vegas. (www.antonini.it) 20


profile

Pamela Huizenga – High-End and Handmade With her bold and original style, this talented artist continues to capture the imagination of those who seek unusual and creative high-end jewellery designs.

Seaside

By Cynthia Unninayar

Mes Fleurs

For Pamela Huizenga, who is both a talented jewellery designer and an accomplished stone-cutter, the world of gemstones and fossils is like a huge candy store, but, she quips, “without the calories!” Huizenga has always been intrigued by the range of colours, textures, shapes, and the natural imperfections found in gems. “It is the inner soul of these stones that provides my inspiration.” And her inspiration is turned into pieces that are literally sold off her fingers and wrists. “Quite often, people stop me on street and ask where I got my jewellery, and some even buy it right then.” Aside from these individuals, Pamela Huizenga jewellery is sold through fine retailers and galleries where clients are looking for something different or for custom pieces. “One of our most favorite designers for handcrafted jewelry is Pamela Huizenga,” says Susan Hardin, of Hardin Jewelry in Banner Elk, North Carolina. “Her one-of-a-kind creations are enhanced by her choice of exquisite colored stones found the world over. Truly unique!” “Representing Pamela Huizenga’s fabulous line of exquisite jewelry is truly the ‘crown jewel’ of my store,” says Dianne Davant, of Dianne Davant Reserve Collection in Palm City, Florida. Torso “Every piece is designed with the ultimate eye for the perfect setting. Pamela is truly an artist in the world of jewels!” Continuing her artistry, while fine-turning her style, Huizenga has introduced three new lines. “Mes Fleurs” evokes a bouquet of flowers set in 18K gold. “One day I was sorting through some pear-shaped rose-cut diamonds and was struck by their sparkle and character. I knew they would make great abstract flowers,” she reminisces. Each one-of-a-kind “Fleur” is handmade and uses not only rose-cut diamonds but also pink tourmaline, blue chalcedony, black opal, lapis, blue topaz, and more. The designer is currently experimenting with keshi pearls and natural diamond crystals. “Baubles” is the designer’s way of celebrating the fun, sparkly nature of rose-cut diamonds. “I use natural colour rose-cut diamonds and sometimes add a few full-cut stones,” she explains. Each handmade piece encompasses colour combinations of both the diamonds and the 18K gold or platinum. With its rather apt title, “Celebrating the Torso” features a line of unique pendants made from a variety of gems such as hot pink tourmaline with black diamonds, moss agate drusy, North American turquoise, and stalactite slices. “Each pendant is as individual as the woman who wears it. They are long with a lot of character, and we continually add to the line,” adds Huizenga. In addition to 18K gold pieces, Pamela Huizenga continues her silver lines, including the ever popular “Seaside,” which uses aquamarine, rainbow moonstone, white topaz, brown sapphire, smoky quartz, fossilized sea biscuits, sea shells, and more. Other silver lines revolve Baubles around colour combinations and even include sterling cufflinks. (www.pamelahuizenga.com) 22


celebrate ... unique

"Mes Fleurs"

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Pa m e l a H u i z e ng a JEWELRY PAMELAHUIZENGA.COM


profile

Yael Sonia –

Spinning ring.

Perpetually in Motion After her award-winning Perpetual Motion—with its rolling spheres, swinging pendulums, spinning tops, and flying kites—Yael Sonia introduced the Rock collection, made of large, irregularly faceted or roughly hammered Brazilian stones. Now, the young designer is presenting new versions of her original designs plus a new collection of rings. By Cynthia Unninayar Asymmetric Bands and Asymmetric Brilliant Fancy rings. Hammered Fancy rings and pendant.

Yael Sonia’s highly original and award-winning Perpetual Motion collection celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, and to mark the occasion, she is introducing a new version of the spinning ring, cuff, and pendant. “People like the way the diamond-set gold balls move around the diamond-set centre of the piece. When they move, the ball moves with them, in a playful and fun manner,” she explains. “The spinning pieces all emit a very distinct ringing sound and when the ring is worn the moving ball vibrates against the finger, awakening various senses, sight, touch, and sound.” The Spinning Top pendant is smaller this year but incorporates a brilliant-cut 40-point diamond at its centre. Judging by its early success, this should prove to be a winner for 2012. In the ring category, Yael Sonia is expanding her “Asymmetric” line with the Bouquet of Faceted Brilliant Fancy and Asymmetric introduction of a collection of Asymmetric bands that can be worn alone, Faceted Brilliant Fancy rings. as a wedding band, or stacked with the Faceted Brilliant Fancy rings and the Asymmetric Faceted Brilliant Fancy rings. “These bands offer another dimension to the collection,” says Yael, “The bands follow the curve of the Asymmetric Brilliant Fancy rings and each has two brilliant-cut diamonds or coloured gemstones on both ends of the shank.” In the brand’s new additions to the Rock collection—featuring rings, bracelets, and necklaces—colour dominates with all the tones of the season, from soft purples to teal blues, from bold oranges to bright yellow, from hot pinks to calming greens, as well as interesting combinations of colours. “The new Rock rings evoke bouquets of colourful compositions,” she adds. “These one-of-a-kind pieces are especially popular with clients who collect certain colours and those who like the more organic and natural looks.” Yael’s work is available at her boutique on Madison Avenue in New York, as well as fine galleries and jewellery stores in the USA, France, Brazil, and recently in Hong Kong. Anna Cheng of the AME in Hong Kong describes the appeal of Yael Sonia’s jewellery. “Yael incorporates playfulness and interactions while retaining elegance in her work, which has given new meaning to jewellery, opening up new horizons. Her jewellery appeals to many people here in Hong Kong, who are fascinated by the movements, sounds, and vibrations created by the pieces. The jewellery always put a smile on their faces. The theme of Yael’s jewellery is universal, and appeals to people globally.” Clearly, this talented designer is perpetually in motion. (www.yaelsonia.com) 24


profile

Vianna brasil – Pretty in Paraiba From seductive to sophisticated, from classic to contemporary, the colourful jewels of Vianna Brasil are on the forefront of fashion. And it’s no wonder. Inspired by the colours and culture of Brazil, Vianna translates the beauty of its country into original designs that resonate with women all around the world. By Cynthia Unninayar

Karla Antunes and Ricardo Vianna

26

One of the most fashion-forward brands of today, Vianna Brasil has created a new line that evokes the blue green colour for spring, Cockatoo, forecast by Pantone. This rich vibrant tone is represented beautifully in the rare and extraordinary Paraiba Tourmaline. “Paraiba tourmaline is a legendary stone from the state of Paraiba in Brazil,” explains Ricardo Vianna. “Its scarcity and unusual blue-green colour make it one of the most sought-after gems in the world.” Because of its rarity, it is not commonly available, but now Vianna is offering an extraordinary collection made with this remarkable gem. In 1987, miners discovered tourmaline crystals with vivid bluish-green tones in the state of Paraiba, Brazil. Their unique colours had never before been seen in any other gemstone, and it soon became known as Paraiba Tourmaline. The unusual colour is due to the presence of copper, an element that has never been observed in tourmaline. “This gem has a unique glow,” explains Karla Antunes, Vianna’s creative and marketing director, “which makes it a wonderful stone for fine jewellery. Our collection now includes pendants, rings, and earrings. But, because of its rarity, most of these pieces are one-of-a-kind.” As a maker of jewellery, Vianna has the added advantage of faceting its own stones in a stateof-the-art cutting facility in Belo Horizonte, thus it can act quickly when it finds a rare Paraiba stone. Usually the gems are small but the very rare large pieces are occasionally found, and make incredible jewellery if they don’t end up in the hands of collectors. “We are very proud of our Paraiba collection,” continues Karla, “but we also continue with our other lines that celebrate the colours of spring and summer.” And, among the season’s colours interpreted by Vianna are the Tangerine, Sweet Lilac, Solar Power, Margarita, and Cabaret tones predicted by Pantone for S/S 2012. “We love all the colours,” she adds, “but of, course, all women would look pretty in Paraiba.” (www.viannabrasil.com)


VICENZAORO

JCK LUXURY # Lux 1000

Foto: Rogério Franco

BASELWORLD JIS Miami Moscow St. Petersburg FENINJER São Paulo

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profile

The Colourful Artistry of Isabelle Langlois Inspired by Nature, crafted with masterful care and precision, the jewellery of Isabelle Langlois evokes three centuries of artistic savoir-faire. By Cynthia Unninayar In the early 18th century, a booming watchmaking industry in Geneva found, in the nearby region of the French Jura, a source for the stone counter-pivots used in timepiece mechanisms. For over 150 years, families of farmers spent the long winter months cutting the stones and developing the techniques that made their fame. From one such family came Isabelle Langlois’ grandfather, who moved to Paris in the early 20th century to apply his lapidary skills to gemstones that were used in jewellery. There, he established a solid reputation, and his name soon became a reference for stonecutting expertise. Building on this savoir-faire and experience, Isabelle’s father travelled the gem world extensively and soon established his own reputation as an internationally renowned expert gemmologist. He also co-founded the French National Institute of Gemmology. Isabelle grew up within the magic and colourful world of her master lapidary grandfather, where rocks are turned into things of beauty, and where she listened with rapt fascination of the wondrous travel adventures of her father. A Parisian Nestling A gemmologist herself, Isabelle’s first passion was jewellery designing. She created her first piece at the age of twelve, and later went on to learn and hone her skills in high jewellery ateliers. By answering her own calling for design, Isabelle closed the virtuous circle of the past three generations of specialists. In 2011, having designed for many prestigious private clients while increasing her activity with major European jewellers over the last twenty years, she finally set her heart on her own boutique and showroom, which she designed. Located at the prestigious Parisian address, 12 rue de la Paix, it has become a must-see stopover for jewellery lovers visiting the City of Lights. Classic Fine Gold Jewellery Her creative work revolves around colour compositions and arrangements, and has been described as “colourful but never garish,” “baroque but never kitsch,” “original but always timeless.” In Isabelle’s own words, “Emotions can be captured in a piece of jewellery as much as in a sculpture.” As with many creators, Isabelle draws inspiration from the natural world, where she sees her designs as an extension of Nature. Like a florist who composes with flowers, she arranges gems to become posies. Her colourful creations, however, live on forever. Made in 18K gold set with a wide array of coloured gems and diamonds, each jewel demonstrates extreme attention to detail, quality, and style. Created with a savoir-faire developed over three centuries, the colourful artistry of Isabelle Langlois will delight many generations to come. 28


C O L O U R

T R E N D S

Colours Moving into Fall/Winter 2012

Syna

In the winter edition of CIJ Trends & Colours, our annual trends tracker guide, we talked about the top WHQWUHQGVLQ¿QHMHZHOOHU\IRUDVZHOODVWKHWRSWHQFRORXUVLQIDVKLRQIRU6SULQJ6XPPHUDV IRUHFDVWE\WKHPantone Fashion Color Report Spring 20126LQFHFRORXULVRQHRIWKHPDMRUWUHQGVZH FRQWLQXHKHUHZLWKDORRNDWFRORXUVRIMHZHOOHU\LQUHODWLRQWR3DQWRQHœVPDLQIDVKLRQFRORXUGLUHFWLRQVIRU )DOO³%\SOD\LQJWRFRQVXPHUVœSUDFWLFDOVLGHZLWKYHUVDWLOHQHXWUDOVDQGERRVWLQJWKHLUFRQ¿GHQFH ZLWKEROGVSLULWHGKXHVWKLVVNLOOIXOO\EDODQFHGSDOHWWHKDVVRPHWKLQJIRUHYHU\RQH´VDLG/HDWULFH(LVHPDQ H[HFXWLYHGLUHFWRURIWKH3DQWRQH&RORU,QVWLWXWHŽ. %\&\QWKLD8QQLQD\DU

Yael Sonia Carla Amorim Vianna

Massimo Izzo

Erica Courtney

Bill Blass using Pantone Tangerine Tango. Continuing from last spring, this enticing juicy orange is a very vicacious and appealing refesher to enliven anyone’s outlook. [See more beautiful tangerine tones in the Trends & Colour section later in this issue.]

Marco Bicego

Mattiolli

Fashion sketches and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2012.

30

Carmen Marc Valvo using Pantone Honey Gold. This mellow, burnished yellow suggests the soft-muted tones of sunlight to brighten a fall day.


C O L O U R

T R E N D S

Colours Moving into Fall/Winter 2012

Piaget

Jewellery Theatre

Nina Ricci

Bruner

BCBG by Max and Lubov Azria using Pantone Olympian Blue and Rose Smoke (with a touch of Tangerine Tango). The patriotic blue mixes well with the soft and veiled Rose Smoke. [See more beautiful blue tones in the Trends & Colour section in this issue.]

Jack Kelege

Brumani Princess Asscher Cut Sapphire by AcP/Quadamas. Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2012.

32


JCK Las Vegas Show Design Center Shoreline Exhibit Hall Booth #S10916 Phone: 888-288-2801 Fax: 212-594-2529 www.thistleandbee.net Like Us on Facebook (www.facebook.com\ThistleandBee) THE SMART Jewelry Show • JCK Las Vegas • JA New York show


C O L O U R Penny Preville

T R E N D S

Colours Moving into Fall/Winter 2012 Crivelli

Casato

Paula Crevoshay

Chopard

Pamela Huizenga Marco Marchese

Peter Som using Pantone Pink FlambĂŠ. This is a delicious, vibrant pink with a bit of heat to it.

Bellon

Ella Moss by Pamella Protzel Scott using Pantone Ultramarine Green. This is a a deep, cooling bluish-green. [See more beautiful green tones in the Trends & Colour section in this issue.]

Fashion sketches and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2012.

34

Pamela Froman


C O L O U R

T R E N D S

Colours Moving into Fall/Winter 2012 Jewellery Theatre

Erica Courtney

Bibigi

Tresor Amezin’s Creations

Opera Omnia

Jolfer

Isabelle Langlois

Lela Rose using Pantone French Roast, plus Olympian Blue and Honey Gold. Rich and robust, this is is a tasty, sophisticated hue that is a great alternative to the black and charcoal basics typically worn in the fall.

Ponte Vecchio Scarpa Vivaldi

Fashion sketches and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2012.

36

Nanette Lepore using Pantone Bright Chartreuse. As the season transitions from the heat of summer, this vital yellow-green pays homage to a typical spring shade, creating a bridge into the cooling days of fall. Reminiscent of bright green foliage, it provides a perfect accent to every colour in the palette.

Vincent Agor


C O L O U R

T R E N D S

Colours Moving into Fall/Winter 2012 Antonini Nanis

Bizzotto Autore

Ramon Elke Berr

Talento Gioielli

David Lin Jades

Nicole Miller using Pantone Titanium and Rhapsody. The quintessential cool grey combines well with this grayed-down purple that also encourages comfort and serenity with its quiet, muted tone. [For more examples of jewellery in the purple palette, see our Trends & Colours section in this issue.]

Fashion sketches and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2012.

38

Daniel Espinosa


G E M S TO N E S

AMBER’S ATTRACTIVE APPEAL

Amber and gold rings by NAC Amber.

Although amber has been used in various ways for thousands of years, with artifacts found as far back as the Stone Age, its popularity surged when the film Jurassic Park was released—the skepticism of being able to actually create dinosaurs from DNA found in mosquitoes trapped in amber notwithstanding. Today, amber continues to rise in popularity, as more people discover its natural beauty enhanced by innovative designs in silver and gold.

Amber pendant by Art 7.

By Cynthia Unninayar Since most of the world’s amber comes from the Baltic region, Amberif is the perfect venue to showcase the interesting and beautiful creations made with this living gem. Held in Gdansk, Poland, the 19th Amberif fair took place last March and attracted more than 6,000 visitors from around the world who came to see the products of some 400 exhibitors. “Amberif is an excellent opportunity to establish business relationships and get an overview of trends,” said Ewa Rachon, Amberif Project Director. “While the last three years have been difficult for the industry, things seem to be turning around. We are pleased with the results. We also see companies adjusting to the trends and to new generations of consumers, with some offering a wider range of patterns and jewellery, using amber mixed with gilded bronze, gold, silver, steel, and leather straps.” She also added that next year, the fair is moving to a larger, more modern and convenient facility, named Amber Expo, near the stadium. Among the foreign buyers at Amberif was first-time visitor Robert Levine, owner of the Fire & Ice retail stores in Maryland. “Although this was my first time at Amberif, I have been working with amber suppliers from the region for many years. We were the first retail store to carry amber jewellery, going back 25 years. We carry a broad range of cast production pieces in silver and amber, many with a whimsical theme, as well as one-of-a-kind pieces, all of which sell well. We also found new suppliers and confirmed a number of orders. I might add that one advantage of coming to Gdansk was visiting its beautiful old town. My wife and I were able to 40

Amber, gold, and diamond bracelet by NAC Amber.

Nuggets of raw amber, showing different textures, colours, shapes, and sizes (photo: IAA).

spend several hours there and loved every minute. We found the Polish people to be helpful and friendly, not only at the fair, but everywhere. We will certainly return.” Among the highlights at Amberif were the designer gallery, the design contest, and the Amber and Fashion Gala where both jewellery and fashion designers collaborated on collections that featured stylish clothes and creative amber jewellery on the catwalk. A number of museums, scientific agencies, historical associations, and other organizations were also present, along with a series of educational and promotional events. Very importantly, to ensure buyers’ confidence, Dr. Ewa Wagner-Wysiecka of Gdansk University of Technology, ran a special laboratory at the fair to test amber for its authenticity. At the same booth was a large display of real amber products along with many examples of fake amber and the various products used as imitations.

Dr. Ewa WagnerWysiecka, Gdansk University of Technology, standing before a display of fake amber at the lab’s booth at Amberif. As a service for buyers, the lab ran spectro-analyses of amber samples to verify their authenticity.


Malbork Castle, the largest medieval castle in Europe, was the capital of the Teutonic State and subsequently the seat of Polish kings. Its history is interwoven with that of amber, which became the source of the commercial might of the Order during the Middle Ages. Since 1961, it has housed the Castle Museum collection of historic and modern works of amber art.

A Bit About Amber The origin of amber is steeped in myths and legends. The ancient Greeks believed it was the tears of the Heliades. The ancient writer, Nicias, wrote that amber was the juice or essence of the setting sun that congealed in the sea and then washed onto the shore. It was considered magical by some, both as a protection and for its medicinal properties. (Even today, amber is used for various healing effects—the subject of a whole other article.) During the Neolithic period, amber cornerstone offerings were placed underneath houses to protect the inhabitants. It was also worn by Roman gladiators to ensure their survival in the arena. Another Roman, though, Pliny the Elder, in the first century, suggested that the mythical origins of amber were just that— mythical. He felt that amber was actually the resin of a pine-like tree. Indeed, the Romans called amber succinum (from the Latin sucus meaning sap or juice) because of its resinous nature.

Inclusion of a small flower in amber (photo IAA).

Amber is found in many places around the world, but the most well known is from the Baltic region, where it was created at least 40 million years ago from a sticky resin from trees that lived in the “amber” forest in what is now Scandinavia. Over millions of years, the resin fossilized into amber. Although not an actual mineral, it is still considered a gemstone. Since the fossilization process is ongoing, and amber continues to change, it can be thought of as a true living gem. Gierlowska’s Lizard, purchased for the Gdansk Amber Museum by the L. Kronenberg Bank Foundation (photo: M. Jabłonski).

Inclusion of a small spider web in amber (photo IAA).

This gem comes in several colours, with the most common being yellow-orange, but it ranges from white to light lemon to brown and even near black. Uncommonly, it can be red, green, and blue (rare and found mostly in the Dominican Republic). Amber can also be transparent or cloudy and opaque. As was so sensationally demonstrated in Jurassic Park, amber may contain inclusions of insects, as well as spiders, plant remains, hairs, feathers, bubbles, and even small lizards, the most famous being Gierlowska’s Lizard, immortalized in amber, on display at the Amber Museum in Gdansk. The museum also has one of only two known pieces with a solifuge inclusion. Organic inclusions have been studied by scientists for over 150 years, and provide the basis for describing nearly 3,000 species of animals and almost 300 species of plants, invaluable information about the era when amber was forming. Inclusions, make amber even more collectible.

One of only two known pieces with a solifuge inclusion, donated to the Gdansk Amber Museum by the L. Kronenberg Bank Foundation (photo M. Szczerek). 41


G E M S TO N E S

Pendant in amber and silver by S&A.

Art and Jewellery Amber has been used for centuries for jewellery and art objects—and even for medicinal purposes. During the 16th and 17th centuries, celebrated craftsmen used amber to make large coffers, religious items, and altars as well as items of everyday decoration and use. The Castle Museum in Malbork Castle (near Gdansk) has one of the world’s most famous collections of early amber artwork and jewellery. For the museum’s 50th anniversary, it was totally renovated, under the direction of its curator, Dr. Anna Sobecka, and now provides a splendid setting for these extraordinary pieces. Among modern day amber craftsmen, Lucjan Myrta (who was awarded Amber Personality of the Year by the International Amber Association, IAA), is the most famous, having created items ranging from small statues to very large pieces of furniture. Myrta is dedicated to keeping amber crafts alive by translating them into modern as well as traditionallyinspired works of art.

The Castle Museum in Malbork Castle near Gdansk houses a remarkable collection of historic and modern amber objects and jewellery. Left: An amber Madonna and Child altar from Gdansk, around 1680 (photo: Dr. Anna Sobecka).

enThe amber jewellery seen at Amberif en compassed a wide range of styles and types. Most used the traditional yellow to orange colours set in silver, while others displayed gold and diamond combinations, as well as stylized pieces on steel wires or leather cords. The multitude of styles seen at the show were just as fashionable as fine jewellery found anywhere in the world. The most interesting aspect of amber is that each stone is different in terms of colour, inclusions, shape, and size. Since most companies are small and family-run, their jewellery tends to be an expression of many individual designers.

Since pictures convey more than words, a few examples of amber jewellery from some of the more prominent Polish companies are shown here.

Pendant and ring in amber and gold by Ambermix.

Pendant in amber and silver by Paragon.

Ring in amber and silver by Zimmermann Design.

Brooch in amber and silver by Art 7.

One of the intricate, life-size cabinets made in amber by Lucjan Myrta (photo: IAA). 42

Model dressed by fashion designer Ilona Kanclerz wears amber jewellery created by Danka Czapnik at the Amber and Fashion Gala (photo: IAA).


M. Gronkowski won the Design contest with this amber and pearl ring evoking the marine origins of amber.

Classifications, Treatments, and Imitations As for other gem types, amber is sometimes subjected to treatments when used for jewellery. The most common acceptable treatment is a heating process allowing jewellers to obtain transparency, the desired cognac colour, and air bubbles called “scales.” In order to clarify treatments and types of amber for the industry and consumers, the International Amber Association has developed the following classification of Baltic amber gemstones. Natural Baltic Amber (Succinite) Gemstone, which has undergone only mechanical treatment (e.g. grinding, cutting, turning, or polishing) without any change to its natural properties. Modified Baltic Amber (Succinite) Gemstone subjected only to thermal or high-pressure treatment, which changes its physical properties, including the degree of transparency and colour, or shaped under similar conditions out of one nugget, previously cut to the required size. Reconstructed (Pressed) Baltic Amber (Succinite) Gemstone made of Baltic amber pieces pressed under high temperature and under high pressure without additional components. Bonded Baltic Amber (Succinite) Gemstone consisting of two or more parts of natural, modified, or reconstructed Baltic amber bonded together with the use of the smallest possible amount of a binding agent necessary to join the pieces.

In the Bay of Gdansk area, amber has long been gathered on the shores or fished out with nets on long poles from boats. It is currently extracted hydraulically, from a depth of several meters, from the shallow sandy and sandy-clay layers of the Holocene. Water is forced into holes and the resulting pressure brings the amber nuggets to the surface (photo: IAA).

Just like in the gemstone sector, there are a minority of unscrupulous dealers that sell fake amber as the real product. Among the many imitations are glass, plastic, synthetic resins, natural or modified sub-fossil resins (such as Colombian copal or New Zealand kauri copal), pressed Baltic amber with the addition of plastic or copal, and amber crumbs embedded in natural and artificial resins. Amber imitations are not new, and are produced nearly all around the world. Although fake amber has different chemical and physical properties, it can sometimes be difficult to tell it from real amber. Pressed amber, however, has the same properites, making this even more difficult to distinguish. Purchasing from a trusted dealer is therefore important. To ensure that customers can feel confident in purchasing real Baltic amber, the IAA has established a system of certification and recommendations for companies, which attests to “the correctness of the processing method, the good quality of the entire product, as well as to the company’s reliability.” This certification is a guarantee of the authenticity of the raw material—exclusively Baltic amber—and thus offers protection against fakes and substitutes.

Amber nuggets and debris forced up through the ground during the extraction process shown above (photo: IAA).

Recommended companies must comply with the Amber Classification System created by the IAA. People have been fascinated with amber for thousands of years, whether as a material for beautiful art and jewellery, or for its supposed medicinal or magical properties. And, there can be no doubt that the attraction and appeal of amber will continue for many eons to come.

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BUYER BEWARE – IS IT NATURAL, TREATED, OR SYNTHETIC? Since antiquity, gemstones have been an integral part of jewellery. And today, they are still prized for their unique character and intrinsic beauty. But, also since early times, people have found ways to enhance the quality of gemstones, or even create convincing synthetic varieties. At issue now is not so much whether a stone has been treated or created synthetically, but whether this information is disclosed to the customer. While many exhaustive scientific articles have been written on the topic of treated and synthetic stones, this article provides a brief overview of some of the issues involving two varieties of gemstones, quartz and sapphire. By Lalta Keswani, G.G. and Reema Keswani, G.G., Golconda, New York, experts in fine gemstones, pearls, and jewellery At several recent trade change other colours fairs, we were surprised of sapphires, as well. to find that an abundance Beryllium diffusion is of synthetic quartz varian additive process, eties, ranging from rock meaning that the elecrystal to amethyst and ment beryllium is difcitrine, were being sold as fused into the stone at natural gem materials. We high heat, thus changalso heard stories about ing its colour. Given quartz synthetics being the significant price sold as natural stones difference between from gem experts, deal“heat only” and “berylers, and retailers alike. lium-enhanced” sapSince some of these phires, an unwitting trade fairs are sponsored purchase of “berylliby industry organizations, um-enhanced” sapunsuspecting buyers phires is an expensive may be lulled into a false mistake to make for sense of security that the retailers and jewellery This necklace, submitted to the GGTL Laboratories for identification, contains 49 faceted beads (~20 mm dimaterials on sale are rep- ameter) of what proved to be synthetic citrine (photo: T. Hainschwang, GGTL Laboratories, Balzers Liechtenstein makers, not to menresented accurately and and Geneva Switzerland). tion the risk to their that any treatments were reputations and legal appropriately disclosed. exposure. What does a More about this later. retailer or designer do The issue of berylliumafter a piece of fine enhanced blue sapphires jewellery is sold, only is another landmine and to learn later that the is also relevant because stone was misrepretwo vendors at a recent sented? trade show represented In the case of quartz, blue sapphires as “heatthe appearance of hyonly” (one of the oldest Colour zoning in synthetic ametrine and synthetic amethyst is often unlike colour zoning in natural ametrine. Note the “flame” drothermal synthetic patterns in the first photo and the unusual colour zoning in the second, both synthetic stones (photo: T. Hainschwang, GGTL forms of treatment). Yet, Laboratories, Balzers Liechtenstein and Geneva Switzerland). quartz in the 1970s we saw clear evidence of dramatically altered high-heat inclusions that are typical of beryllium-diffused sapphires. the landscape. Because the material is naturally abundant, relatively When challenged on their claims, the vendors admitted to simply inexpensive, and tends to grow large and clean in nature, there are have “made a mistake.” Similar treatments are used to “enhance” or cost barriers to testing. This is also why most buyers would not think 44


and a large dose of common sense can give buyers more confidence in their purchases, or signal when they should send stones to a lab for further testing. Simple Visual Tests: colour, inclusions, zoning Three simple visual tests are the first line of defence. The first is colour. If you see large quantities of evenly coloured, well-matched parcels of quartz or sapphire at inexpensive prices, be suspicious. Second, look for typical inclusions. For example, the appearance of “zebra stripe” or “soap scum” inclusions in natural amethyst is a diagnostic test for natural amethyst. Inclusions, in general, are arrestingly beautiful. They are microscopic works of art that can be explained and highlighted for your clients as part of the selling process. Synthetic quartz varieties will have tiny granular “breadcrumb”

Natural amethyst showing the zebra-stripe effect (photo: GIA).

to question the vast quantities—mostly synthetic—available at reasonable prices on the market today. In very clean quartz crystals, even a gem lab with sophisticated equipment may not be able to conclusively state that it is natural or synthetic. In the 1990s, even synthetic ametrine was created, thus complicating an already troubled situation. As frightening as a sensational headline involving misrepresentation is for a retailer or brand to contemplate, the issues surrounding quartz pale in comparison to the persistent issues with beryllium-enhanced sapphires. There are, however, some clues that may give buyers an indication—for both quartz and corundum—of whether the stone is natural, treated, or synthetic. Using some basic gemmological skills Spicule with quartz crystal cap in synthetic amethyst (photo: GIA).

Breadcrumb inclusions, typical of synthetic quartz, seen in synthetic pink quartz, magnified 40x (photo: GIA).

inclusions or “nailhead spicules,” which are liquid-filled channels, terminated by an inclusion on one side. To continue the above-mentioned example of the two vendors selling blue sapphires as “heat only” at a recent trade fair, when we examined the stones with a 10x loupe, they revealed typical “cotton-ball” inclusions, which indicate dried-out inclusions and very high-temperature treatment. The GemResearch Swisslab (GRS) refers to these inclusions as “fisheyes.” Many experts consider these inclusions to be an important indicator of beryllium-enhanced blue sapphires, but in order to conclusively determine the presence of the beryllium additive (beryllium is a naturally occurring trace element in natural sapphires), the stone needs to be further tested at a qualified laboratory. Third, look for colour zoning. Natural quartz is the most colour-zoned variety of gemstone while natural sapphires often display angular colour zoning, which is absent in synthetic quartz and corundum. Amethyst and citrine are the most colour-zoned of all gemstones, which can be an important natural indicator, with colour bands and zoning occurring along natural crystallographic angles. On the other hand, 45


G E M S TO N E S only as a guide. It cannot and should not be relied upon as definitive in any way. It serves basically to enable you to quickly identify problems for further study or for submission to a gem lab. The more educated buyers are, the better questions they know how to ask. Just a word about the trade fairs… A few unscrupulous vendors are taking advantage of the self-policing policy at trade fairs. Their lack of ethics, and unsuspecting or too-trusting buyers, can potentially expose retailers and brands to serious reputational risk in the case of quartz, and financial risk given the significant price differences in beryllium-treated versus heated sapphires. We should all remember the debacle that Macy’s endured recently because of its lack of proper disclosure of glass-filled rubies, and the perils of being featured negatively on a nationally broadcast television show.

Typical “cotton-ball” inclusions in beryllium-enhanced sapphire (photo: Christoper P. Smith, American Gemological Laboratories).

most synthetics typically display a more even distribution of colour. In natural quartz and sapphires, which have been subject to heating, the zoning becomes fuzzier, but still maintains its angular structure. Using this short checklist when purchasing quartz material or sapphires may allow you to have more confidence in purchasing these stones, and thus avoid potentially costly mistakes. Since the list involves only the simple technique of magnification, it should be used

Angular colour zoning in natural blue sapphire (photo: Asian Institute of Gemmological Sciences).

Note the “nebulous” look of melted crystals due to exposure of the stone to high temperature (magnified 63x) in blue sapphire, most likely with the addition of beryllium. Without further testing using advanced instruments such as LIBS or LA-ICP-MS, the presence of beryllium additive cannot be conclusively determined (photo: Asian Institute of Gemmological Sciences). 46

What’s in a Name? Just as a brief aside, there is another storm brewing that involves the reckless nomenclature of various gemstones. To cite a few examples, bowenite is being sold as “Soochow jade” while calcite, serpentine, and soapstone (among other gems) are being offered for sale with the misleading label of “jade.” Chinese buyers are snapping up yellow to brownish-yellow quartzite, which is touted as ‘”Yellow Dragon Jade.” The rise of the Chinese consumer has been akin to a giant awakening and jewellery brands all over the world are scrambling to capture a piece of this huge market. This includes grabbing part of the dizzying price increases surrounding the term “jade”—at any cost. Gemstones are beautiful, appreciated, and loved. When purchasing them, however, it is important to understand what you are really buying. We cannot stress too strongly the importance of purchasing from dealers you trust and who are committed to full and clear disclosure. But above all, let the buyer beware.


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BOOKS

THE MYTH OF THE MILLION-DOLLAR DI$HRAG

Susan Eisen

Now that we have your attention with this unusual title, read on to see why it is important. “The Myth of the Million-Dollar Dishrag” is the most recent book by Susan Eisen, and the reason it is so important can be found in the sub-title “An Effective and Powerful Plan to Avoid a Family Inheritance Battle After You Die.” Originally intended for her customers, the book is also being purchased by jewellers who see it as a way to help their own clients. By Barbara Wheat Examples of some of the estate jewellery that has passed through Susan Eisen’s store.

It is important to keep appraisals up-to-date.

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As a jewellery retailer in El Paso, Texas, Eisen has heard just about everything related to family issues and crises over inheritance issues. “Most of the stories have happy endings, but some do not,” she says. “By far, the one thing that has affected me most in my life as a jeweller is how the jewellery and treasures my clients own have the power to change the future of their families. Hearing these stories compelled me to take this information and share it.” The problems she describes are not always about valuable items. Many have to do with sentimental or emotional items that have no other tangible value. These examples are summed up in the first chapter of her book about a family who had done all the appropriate and necessary planning and had even made a “With Love List™” (an itemized listing of their most valuable and sentimental belongings) along with the loved one who was to inherit them. When the parents passed away and the four children settled the estate, clearly planned out ahead of time, all went well until they noticed the old faded dishrag that their mother had always used to wash the dishes. To them, it symbolized their mother and her love for them, and each child wanted it. No one was willing to give in. The arguments turned to anger, then to attorneys, and finally to lawsuits over the previously appraised “valuable” items. Two years later, the four children had collectively spent a million dollars fighting over the dishrag. The “million-dollar dishrag” had not only cost a fortune, it had destroyed a family, a family that would never be resurrected. “Thankfully, this story is fiction,” says Eisen, “but it is a cautionary tale for any family, and is based on a compilation of actual family tales that I have heard from my clients over the years.” “Everyday, clients tell me stories of heartbreak and sadness, envy and jealousy,” Eisen continues. “For example, just the other day, a woman came in with a ring, saying it was from her mother but then snidely added that her ‘sister got the big diamond.’ There are other cases of second marriages where the husband gave the new wife his deceased wife’s jewellery, when the daughters thought they should have it.” But a treasured item is not always jewellery or artwork. Treasures can be purely sentimental. “A diary, an inexpensive watch that a


parent always wore, or even an ice cream scoop, can hold tremendous sentimental value for someone,” adds Eisen. This is why she created the “With Love List™”, which guides the reader through a step-by-step process to determine items of financial value as well as emotional value, even if they might not seem like it at the time. Most sales of the book have gone to customers who want it not only for themselves but to give to their parents. The book’s “how-to” approach is simple and concise. Eisen draws not only on her experience as a trained appraiser and gemmologist— her expertise has been accepted by courts of law in cases dealing with the valuation of jewellery for bankruptcy, divorce, fraud, and most recently as an expert witness for jewellery patent infringement issues—but presents examples in an easy-to-read and understandable manner, with a “plan” that can be used to divide jewellery, art, and other heirlooms in family collections. Her approach to settling family inheritance issues enables parents, grandparents, children, and grandchildren to make wise decisions. “The things you inherit are the only things that remind you of the person who dies other than the memories,” Eisen muses. “Why take a chance of having those things turn negative? People have the ability when alive to make things work out for their heirs. I believe that the most important thing people can do after raising children is dealing with the inheritance issue before they die.” And, reading and acting upon the valuable information given in “The Myth of the Million Dollar Dishrag” can ease the problems in dealing with inheritance. About Susan Eisen Born and raised in El Paso, Texas, Susan Eisen was determined from a young age to pursue her dream to major in art. Her love for design and working with metals and gemstones led her to fall in love with the art of jewellery making. In 1980, she opened her first retail jewellery store and art gallery “Tiara” in El Paso’s downtown art district where she spent her days dreaming, designing, and making her own pieces. Eisen’s enthusiasm for designing jewellery and running a business inspired her to write her first book, “Crazy About Jewelry – The Expert Guide to Buying, Selling, and Caring for Your Jewelry,” which was published in 2007. She wrote about the highlights of being a jewellery designer, and talked about interesting and humorous situations, as well as the practical topics of cleaning, storing, travelling with, insuring, and redesigning your jewellery. Over the past 32 years, Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry and Watches has gone from a small, one-person jewellery and art gallery to a major player in the industry. She has been recognized as Woman Retailer of the Year by the Women’s Jewelry Association, and is one of the top 31 jewellers named as “Americas Best Jewelers” by National Jeweler magazine. She has also earned the “Best Jeweler in El Paso” title for many years. Since launching her retail jewellery store and design studio in 1980, Susan Eisen has become a sought-after advisor for attorneys, CPAs, bankers, private collectors, and consumers for the valuation and distribution of family valuables. She has worked with hundreds of clients on their collections of jewellery, gemstones, silver, artwork, coins, and other precious treasures and has helped thousands of clients celebrate the milestones of their lives, from the birth of a child to a golden anniversary, with precious jewellery and other fine gifts.

The value of treasured items cannot always be measured in financial terms.

A “With Love List”™ explained in the book can be used to keep track of which items go to which heir.

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ORGANIC ORANGE 1

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The most popular fashion colour for 2012, for both spring and fall is Tangerine Tango, as forecast by Pantone. Evocative of the changing seasons, midway between the cool of winter and the heat of summer, the orange tones are powerful and energetic in both fashion and jewellery.

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1. Carnelian, diamond, and gold earrings by Jane Taylor (USA). 2. Fire opal, diamond, and gold earrings by Yael Designs (USA). 3. Citrine, diamond, and gold pendant by Magerit (Spain). 4. Mandarin garnet and diamond ring by Eclat Jewels (USA). 5. Multi-gemstone ring by Elke Berr (Switzerland). 6. Garnet, citrine, and diamond ring by Isabelle Langlois (France). 7. Citrine, diamond and gold ring by Mary Esses (Brazil/USA). 8. Outfit by Dennis Basso (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).


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9. Ammonite and gold earrings by Pamela Huizenga (USA). 10. Citrine and gold ring by Dewel Joailliers (Switzerland). 11. Amber and gold pendant by Yael Sonia (Brazil/USA). 12. Citrine, topaz, and gold bangle by Dietrich (Switzerland). 13. Citrine and gold ring by EV Jewelry (USA). 14. Citrine, diamond, and gold ring by Lisa Nik (USA). 15. Citrine, smoky quartz, orange sapphire, and diamond ring by Rodney Rayner (Britain). 16. Outfit by Maria Escote (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).

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BORN TO BE BLUE

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%OXH LV RQH RI WKH IDYRXULWH FRORXUV IRU ÂżQH jewellery, from clear aqua tones to deep royal hues using such gems as aquamarine, turquoise, Paraiba tourmaline, sapphire, lapis lazuli, topaz, and opal.

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1. Aquamarine and diamond pendant by Suna Bros. (USA). 2. Aquamarine, diamond, and sapphire earrings by Chopard (Switzerland). 3. Paraiba tourmaline and diamond earrings by Marco Marchese (Brazil). 4. Paraiba tourmaline, emerald, and diamond earrings by Ruth Grieco (Brazil). 5. Turquoise and diamond earring by Rina Limor (USA). 6. Paraiba tourmaline and diamond ring by Vianna Brasil (Brazil). 7. Cat’s-eye tourmaline by Tavares Gems (Brazil). 8. Aquamarine, diamond, and sapphire ring by Italian Design (Italy). 9. Passion Topaz Caribbean contra cut by Swarovski Gems (Austria). 10. Outfit by Vantan Tokyo (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).


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11. Sapphire and diamond earrings by MVee (Hong Kong). 12. Gemstone bracelet by Shamballa (Denmark). 13. Gemstone pendant by What’s Your Sign by Glenn Bradford (USA). 14. Sapphire cuff by Staurino (Italy). 15. Gemstone and gold earrings by Valerie MacCarthy (Britain). 16. Topaz and silver ring by Metalsmiths Sterling (Canada). 17. Opal, diamond, and crystal ring by Stephen Webster (Britain). 18. Topaz and silver ring by Scott Kay (USA). 19. Tanzanite and diamond ring by Jochen Pohl (Germany). 20. Outfit by Roberto Torretta (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).

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PRETTY IN PURPLE 1

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Associated with royalty, purple is also thought to promote calm, peace, and tranquility. It comes in a range of tones from the cooler bluish hues to the warmer reddish shades. In jewellery, purple is represented by amethyst, sapphire, spinel, jade, topaz, and other beautiful gems.

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1. Jade, diamond and ruby pendant by David Lin Jades (USA). 2. Amethyst and sapphire earrings by Tresor (USA). 3. Amethyst, diamond, and sapphire ring by Damiani (Italy). 4. Gemstone and diamond ring by Continental Diamond (Hong Kong). 5. Amethyst ring by Delphine Leymarie (USA). 6. Amethyst, pearl, and diamond ring by Utopia (Italy). 7. Amethyst, sapphire, and diamond pendant in 18K gold by Judith Ripka (USA). 8. Jade and diamond ring by Rina Limor (USA). 9. Outfit by Amaya Arzuaga (photo: Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week).


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10. Amethyst and diamond earrings by Gavello (Italy). 11. Amethyst, pearl, and diamond brooch by Dietrich (Switzerland). 12. Amethyst and sapphire pendant by Al Coro (Germany). 13. Amethyst, diamond, and sapphire brooch by Georland (France). 14. Amethyst and sapphire earrings by Jolfer (Spain). 15. Amethyst and gold earrings by Chopard (Switzerland). 16. Amethyst, diamond, and sapphire brooch by Kavant (Thailand). 17. Sapphire, ruby, and diamond ring by Italian Design (Italy). 18. Amethyst, diamond, and gold ring by Elke Berr (Switzerland). 19. Outfit by Sarli (photo: AltaRomAltaModa).

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1. Peridot, gold, and silver earrings by Ostbye (USA). 2. Peridot, lime quartz, and tsavorite earrings and pendant by Rodney Rayner (Britain). 3. Peridot and diamond earrings by Paula Crevoshay (USA). 4. Peridot and diamond ring by Bagues (Spain). 5. Enamel and gold cufflinks by Victor Mayer (Germany). 6. Gold and crystal ring by Baccarrat (France). 7. Peridot carving by Atelier Munsteiner (Germany). 8. Outfit by Agatha Ruiz de la Prada (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).


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GORGEOUS GREENS

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Nothing evokes Nature more than the colour green. In jewellery as in Nature, there are a multitude of shades, from the yellowish-limes to the grassy greens.

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14 9. Tourmaline and diamond earrings by Sharart (Thailand). 10. Gemstone and gold necklace by Tresor (USA). 11. Tourmaline and gold pendant by Yael Sonia (USA/Brazil). 12. Multi-gemstone pendant by Ponte Vecchio (Italy). 13. Tsavorite and gold ring by Carelle (USA). 14. Multi-gemstone bracelet by Mary Esses (USA/Brazi). 15. Outfit by Sue Wong (photo: Sue Wong).

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1. Gold and diamond pendant by Ponte Vecchio (Italy). 2. Gold, silver, and ruby pendant by Space Rock Jewelry Studio (Japan). 3. Gold and diamond pendant by Misis (Italy). 4. Gold, diamond, and pearl pendant by Mario Buzzanca (Hong Kong). 5. Gold, diamond, and mosaic watch by Sicis Jewels (Italy). 6. Gold, diamond, and pearl ring by Forever Jewels (Singapore) 7. Diamond, gold, and gemstone earring by Ankit Malpani (India). 8. Diamond and rubellite ring by Goldesign (Brazil). 9. Diamond, gold, and gemstone pendant by NT Masterjoias (Brazil). 10. Gold and diamond pendant by Pippo Perez (Italy). 11. Outfit by Jill Stuart (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).


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BIRDS OF A FEATHER

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One of the more prominent nature themes is the bird. Owls are very popular this year, as are swans and other 多QHIHDWKHUHGIULHQGVWKDW are immortalized in precious jewellery.

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12. Gold and silver pendant by Cassavoy (USA). 13. Gold earrings by Maya Jewels (USA). 14. Gold, pearl, and gemstone pendant by Robin Haley (USA). 15. Gemstone and diamond ring by Jessica Fong (Hong Kong). 16. Gold, diamond, and gemstone watch by Boucheron (Switzerland). 17. Rubellite, diamond, and gold brooch by MVee (Hong Kong). 18. Diamond, ruby, and gold pendant by Palmiero (Italy). 19. Diamond and sapphire brooch by Georland (France). 20. Outfit by Miu Miu (photo: AS).

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1. Gold and diamond brooch by Le Vian (USA). 2. Gold ring by Akillis (France). 3. Rose-cut diamond and gold spider pendant by Arunashi (USA). 4. Gold, diamond, and gemstone bangles by Stephen Webster (Britain). 5. Silver and Swarovski crystal ring by Akhmad Sodiq/King Halim (Indonesia). 6. Silver, gold, and coral pendant by Kevin Main (USA). 7. Diamond and gold ring by Roberto Coin (Italy). 8. Diamond and ruby ring by M.C.L. by Matthew Campbell Laurenza (USA). 9. Outfit by Betsey Johnson (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).


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Skulls, human and animal, are the embodiment of the trend towards edgy, urban punk jewellery for 2012. Other motifs include spiders, razor blades, spikes, knives, and barbed wire, in a variety of materials and styles.

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10. Diamond pendant by Madstone/Kerri Halpern (USA). 11. Diamond and gold ring by Pippo Perez (Italy). 12. Silver pendant by Trigrand (Hong Kong). 13. Gold and diamond earrings by Katie Decker (USA). 14. Watch by Richard Mille (Switzerland). 15. Ruby, diamond, and gold cufflinks by de Grisogono (Switzerland). 16. Diamond and gold pendant by MVee (Hong Kong). 17. Outfit by Betsey Johnson (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

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1. Gold and onyx pendant by Carrera y Carrera (Spain). 2. Silver and diamond pendant by Rhonda Faber Green (USA). 3. Gold and diamond earring by Elise Dray (France). 4. Ruby, diamond, and gold bracelet by Zorab (Thailand). 5. Diamond and gold ring by Jean Christophe (France). 6. Gold and diamond stylized dragon necklace by TTF Studio (China). 7. Diamond, ruby, and gold bracelet by Roberto Coin (Italy). 8. Diamond, gemstone, and gold pendant by Lorenz Baumer (France).


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15 14 9. Gold, diamond, and multi-gemstone pendant by Jewellery Theatre (Russia). 10. Diamond, emerald, and gold pendant by Picchiotti (Italy). 11. Multi-gemstone, diamond, and gold pendant by Paolo Piovan (Italy). 12. Sapphire, diamond, and gold pendant by Green G Jewelry (Hong Kong). 13. Multi-gemstone and silver pendant by Sylvie Corbelin (France). 14. Jade, diamond, and gold ring by Continental Diamond (Hong Kong). 15. Multi-gemstone, diamond, and gold ring by Henri J. Sillam (France). 16. Gold, diamond, and grand feu enamel “Altiplano� watch by Piaget (Switzerland).

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Jewelmer jewellery in 18K gold, pearls, diamonds, and gemstones, from the Margherita collection (top), Giverny (middle) and Buona Annata (right). Outfit by Ted Saverio at the Dewi Fashion Knights. (photo: Jakarta Fashion Week) 66


GOLDEN LUXURY Nothing is more luxurious than combining the glitter of 18K gold with the glow of the rare and exquisite golden Philippine South Sea pearl. Renowned brand Jewelmer draws on the best of both worlds to create extraordinary jewels that evoke golden luxury. (Jewelmer.com)

Jewelmer jewellery in 18K gold, pearls, diamonds, and gemstones, from the Stella collection (top), Lautitia (middle) and Rosone (centre, lower left). Outfit by Ralph Lauren. (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York)

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PROFILE

NEW ADDITION TO OPERA LUXURY TRADING Miami-based Opera Luxury Trading has added another fine Italian brand to its USA distribution network. By T.R. Flora “We welcome Chantecler to our group,” says Massimo Zerbini, director of Opera Jewels. “A well-respected family brand, it joins Vendorafa and Opera Omnia, which together represent the best in Italian creativity, craftsmanship, and quality.” Each of the three brands offers something unique and different to clients who are looking for fashion-forward and luxury jewellery, handcrafted in the finest tradition of Italian goldsmithing. And, very importantly, all of our clients are assured excellent customer service by all three brands under the umbrella of Opera Luxury Trading. “Our clients are our partners,” insists Zerbini. “Our strategy and co-marketing activities for 2012 are focused on three pillars: working closely with retailers to support them throughout their business development; having a consistent communication plan to help increase awareness and visibility of the three brands with retailers’ final customers; organizing local events to enhance the importance of the brand, its brand image, and identity at the point of the sale. Introducing Chantecler The colourful collections of Chantecler continually evolve thanks to the passion and creative energy of the heirs of the founder Salvatore Aprea, who carry on his noble tradition. Created in Capri in the 1950s, at a time when the Dolce Vita was dominating the island, Chantecler conquered the international jet set with its high jewellery pieces that evoked the Esprit de Capri. This spirit continues today with Chantecler’s many collections. One of the most popular is the Campanella line with its colourful little bells, inspired by an ancient Capri legend: one day a young shepherd, desperate because he had lost his only sheep, saw the ghost of Saint Michael who gave him a small magic bell, the Campanella. When the young boy rang the bell, he found his Chantecler sheep. The Capri Campanella thus became a symbol of fortune and happiness. In 1945, Chantecler crafted a large bronze bell, which was presented to the American President Roosevelt to celebrate the end of World War II. Since then Campanella has also become a symbol of peace. With its whirl of gold, diamonds, and colourful gemstones, Campanella expresses the best of Made in Italy. Other collections include: the historic Logo in gold and diamonds; Le Marinelle, a whimsical aquarium of colourful marine creatures; J~O’ with its delicate golden forms creating plays of light and shadow; Joyful, a rainfall of precious and colourful drops; Cherie, beads of hard stones and soft forms; Bon Bon, sweet temptations in lively colours; and Corni, a re-creation of ancient amulets. Opera Omnia A young brand, Opera Omnia has risen onto the global stage of fine jewellery at an allegro pace. Launched in 2010 with primary distribution in the Americas, the brand now has a global presence and continues to gain momentum with its fashion-forward coloured gemstone and gold collections, all handcrafted in Italy and designed with Caribbean island themes and motifs. Designer Massimo Zerbini captures and re-creates the joie de vivre of the Caribbean lifestyle in the Opera Omnia collections, each of which is named after a Caribbean island.

Opera pera Omnia

Vendorafa Vendorafa Lombardi draws on sixty years of traditional craftsmanship and savoir-faire, combined with today’s technology, to produce pieces that represent the best in creative Italian goldsmithing. Known for its innovation and research in the techniques of hammering and engraving, the brand’s organic forms, floral inspirations, and classic patterns in 18K gold and precious stones are characterized by dynamic shapes, spatial harmony, and rigorous patterns. Positioned in the mid to upper range, Vendorafa jewellery is highly recognizable by its hammered finishes and graceful lines. Vendorafa 68

For more information about Opera Luxury Trading or any of these three brands, visit them at the Couture show, Booth 614 at the Wynn Hotel in Las Vegas or visit www.operajewels.com.


MARKETPLACE –BASELWORLD

BASELWORLD 2012 – TEMPERED OPTIMISM With Swiss watch exports reaching record levels in 2011—$20.99 billion, up 19 percent from the previous year—the stage was set for a successful BaselWorld 2012, although optimism was tempered by the continued world economic deterioration. By Cynthia Unninayar

Pearl, gold, and gemstone pendant by Autore.

The Roma Triplo ring by Antonini.

Silver and gold ring by Vendorafa.

Pearl and diamond earrings by Yvel.

Diamond ring made from a single diamond crystal by Shawish Geneva.

Damianissma silver and onyx ring by Damiani. 70

Despite its much earlier-than-usual dates, BaselWorld—the global arena for watches and jewellery—attracted 104,300 visitors from 100 countries who came to see the wares of some 1,815 exhibitors from 45 countries. While the Swiss fair is known primarily as a platform for the Swiss watch industry, the event also showcased a wide variety of other watchmakers as well as jewellery brands from around the world. In both the jewellery and watch sectors, the primary appeal of BaselWorld is its universality and diversity in terms of products as well as buyers. Here, you can find products ranging from the very high end with its sumptuous multi-million dollar watches and jewellery, to the mid-range, with more accessible luxury, to the lower end, with inexpensive but still fashionable pieces in silver or other materials. At BaselWorld, there was something for everyone. Design Directions The major trends seen at the fair mirrored the top ten trends that were outlined in our Winter edition of CIJ Trends & Colours, as were the colours described in the Pantone colour picks for 2012. At BaselWorld, colour was again the biggest design direction, with orange, blue, pink, and green the favourites (for more, see our Trends & Colours section in this issue). The natureinspired theme was again widespread, and the most prevalent motifs were flowers, birds—especially owls—and marine life. On a more mythical note, dragons were a very popular item in celebration of the Chinese Year of the Dragon. (For the bird and dragon themes,


Sapphire, diamond, and gold earrings by Marco Bicego.

Enamel, gold, and diamond pendant by Jorg Heinz.

Textured gold and diamond bands by Furrer-Jacot.

see our Trends & Colours section, where a large variety of pieces are featured.) Many brands have incorporated pearls as accent elements in their creations, especially the freshwater variety, while others such as Jewelmer, Yvel, and Autore offer exquisite creations using South Sea pearls, including one-of-akind pieces in round or baroque forms. Large loop bracelets and long lariats were also staples at the show, as exemplified by Louis Fiessler and Nanis. Tassels continue to be interesting details in many designs, as gemstone beads or as small metal chains. The organic, eco-look was abundant at BaselWorld, with brands such as Marco Bicego featuring a collection of handtextured gold beads set with natural sapphires. Texture was also noted in bridal pieces, as shown by Furrer-Jacot’s matching bands. Versatility is also becoming popular with brands. In one interesting example, Antonini created a mounting where the shank is composed of three parts, which can be rotated around a finger to give a different look with each different direction. Other examples involved interchanging gemstones of different colours. Cuffs of all sorts and sizes were seen, some with openwork, while others were solid, embellished with decorations. Architectural designs were shown by a few brands, notably the “French Kiss” ring by Tournaire, which showcased an inverted Eiffel Tower on its shank.

The brand went even further with a remarkable tourbillon watch, developed in collaboration with Technotime, which offers a 3D landscape of Paris’ various monuments. Silver continues its notable ascent into the category of noble metals. Venerable brands, such as Damiani and Vendorafa, known mainly for their splendid gold pieces, have now introduced designer lines in silver. Most major jewellery brands now offer selections in the white metal. New Additions A number of first-time brands exhibited at this year’s BaselWorld. Among them was newly created Italian brand, Italian Design, founded by designer Alessio Boschi, which showcased a range of pieces including exquisite opal designs. Another Italian company, Sicis Jewels, also made its debut at BaselWorld. Famous for its mosaics, Sicis celebrated its 25th anniversary by creating a jewellery brand. True to its DNA, its jewellery is handcrafted in micro-mosaic with other precious materials. Sicis founder and president, Maurizio Leo Placuzzi, explained, “Mosaic has always been the ink that writes our story, and following the same thread, Sicis is now reinterpreting micro-mosaic, one of the most ancient and elaborate techniques, in jewellery manufacturing.” Still from Italy, Ponte Vecchio introduced a new fashion brand, Ugo Cala, to meet the demands of the fashion segment.

Diamond and gold bracelet by Louis Fiessler.

Colourful fashion ring by Ugo Cala/Ponte Vecchio.

Pink tourmaline, gold, and diamond ring by Mathon Paris.

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Gold, diamond, and ebony cuff by Ramon.

Micro-mosaic, gold, and diamond necklace and earrings by Sicis Jewels.

Opal and gemstone ring by Italian Design.

“Paris Forever” tourbillon watch by Tournaire.

“French Kiss” amethyst, diamond, and gold ring by Tournaire. 72

Also in the fashion segment, Swarovski Gems™ launched its zirconia fancy diamond cuts, an innovation and addition to the Pure Brilliance concept for zirconia. Coming in four colours, Fancy Yellow, Fancy Pink, Fancy Blue and Fancy Brown, this created stone equates to the colours of nature’s most celebrated fancy diamonds, the Tiffany, the Agra, the Hope, and the Golden Jubilee. Another first-time addition to the show, Shawish Geneva, made a big impression as it unveiled the world’s first ring made entirely of a single diamond. Weighing 150 carats, it comes with the hefty price tag of around $65 million for those who are interested. Still in the first-time category was the Centurion pavilion, which featured a number of USA-based exhibitors from the Centurion show. According to Howard Hauben, Centurion president, the response was positive. Other returning pavilions, also located in Hall 2.0, were those of Joaillerie de France, showcasing French companies, and India, featuring a variety of Indian jewellery and gem companies. Modernizing BaselWorld This was the last year for the current infrastructure of the show, as explained by Sylvie Ritter, managing director, “We are proud of BaselWorld’s history, of which numerous chapters have already been written. The 2012 edition is going to go down in the annals as a decisive turning point. A new age is beginning in 2013—one that is going to be characterized by modernity, an advanced level of development, and extraordinary aesthetics.” A $467 million renovation project is underway with the construction of a large hall measuring 420 meters in length, providing an exhibition space of more than 140,000 square meters (about 1.5 million square feet). The current Hall 3 will be demolished, as well as the main entrance hall to make way for a three-story complex. The new structure will be completed in time for the opening of BaselWorld 2013 on April 25. (www.baselworld.com)


June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 21 – 24 June 2012 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre The June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair (June Fair) will be held at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) from 21 to 24 June 2012. One of Asia’s top three fine jewellery events, the June Fair celebrates its 25th anniversary this year with the same excellence and exciting features that have been the hallmark of trade fairs organised by UBM Asia. During the four-day event, over 1,600 top-quality exhibitors from around the world and a wide array of fine jewellery and related products will be showcased in 64,000 square metres of exhibition space.

A Perfect Platform for Mid-season Sourcing Superior Location Hong Kong’s free-trade policy – no import and export tax – attracts jewellers from around the world to conduct business in the city. Hong Kong’s proximity to China and India, two of the world’s most robust jewellery markets, has also made the city the preferred springboard for companies looking to break out into these markets.

Timely Event The Fair’s June timing helped cement its status as the most important mid-year jewellery event in Asia. For jewellers restocking for fall, the June Fair is a must-visit event.

Clear Product Sectorisation Despite the growth in the Fair’s size and range of products, the June Fair remains easy to navigate, thanks to the product sectorisation policy. This means products under the same category are grouped into their respective specialty pavilions, making products easy to locate. Hong Kong Premier Pavilion

Fine Design Pavilion & Fine Gem Pavilion

Jadeite Gallery

Fine Jewellery

Antique & Vintage Jewellery

Silver & Stainless Steel Jewellery

Diamonds

Pearls

Gemstones

Jewellery Accessories, Packaging, Tools & Equipment

Fine Design Pavilion / Fine Gem Pavilion Tangible Extravagance

Around 80 internationally renowned jewellers are exhibiting under the Fine Design Pavilion (FDP) and Fine Gem Pavilion (FGP). Dedicated to the world’s finest jewellery, top-quality loose diamonds, coloured gemstones, pearls and exclusive one-offs, the FDP and FGP are ready to captivate traders and connoisseurs with their masterpieces.

Hong Kong Premier Pavilion Hong Kong’s Best

Since its launch in 2009, the Hong Kong Premier Pavilion (HKPP) has become an exceptional podium that showcases the city’s homegrown brands and their excellently crafted jewellery. The HKPP at this year’s June Fair will feature around 40 exhibitors in a refined setting befitting their fabulous jewellery creations.

Largest-ever Diamond Pavilion The 2012 edition of the June Fair features the largest-ever Diamond Pavilion in the Fair’s history. The Diamond Pavilion expanded to cover the Convention Hall and Halls 3F & 3G of the HKCEC, houses 415 diamond exhibitors from 10 countries and regions. Of this figure, 64 companies are exhibiting under the banner of the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC) while 70 companies are under the banner of the Israel Diamond Institute (IDI).

Fair Details Fair Dates & Opening Hours: Dates

Opening Hours

21 – 23 June 2012

10:30am – 6:30pm

24 June 2012

10:30am – 5:30pm

Venue: Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre,1 Expo Drive, Wanchai, Hong Kong

Sponsors: The Gemmological Association of Hong Kong Gemological Institute of America (Hong Kong) Hong Kong Gold & Silver Ornament Workers & Merchants General Union The Kowloon Pearls, Precious Stones, Jade, Gold and Silver Ornament Merchants Association

Enquiries

Strong Participation of Group Pavilions

For visiting details, please contact:

German Pavilion will make its debut at the June Fair, making it a total of 12 group pavilions, representing a strong contingent of exhibitors from Antwerp, Brazil, mainland China, Germany, India, Israel, Italy, Japan, Korea, Thailand, Taiwan region and the International Colored Gemstones Association (ICA) at the June Fair.

Tel: (852) 2516 2115/ 2585 6127 Fax: (852) 3749 7344 Email: visitjgf-hk@ubm.com

Visitor Promotion Department, Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia Ltd


ASIA’S TOP THREE

One of

Fine Jewellery Events

June

Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

21 - 24 June 2012

Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre Concurrent Event: Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair – June

UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel i(852) 2585 6179 / 2516 1677 Fax i(852) 3749 7319 Emailisalesjgf-hk@ubm.com

www.JewelleryNetAsia.com


MARKETPLACE – VICENZAORO WINTER

VICENZAORO WINTER – SHOWCASING ITALIAN STYLE The first fair of the jewellery calendar, Vicenzaoro Winter, showcased Italian design excellence at its best in January under the theme, “Ordinary is over. Ordinary is back.” By Cynthia Unninayar

Marine pendant in silver, enamel, and gemstones by Nite.

Ring in onyx, white gold, and black diamonds by Garavelli.

Paraiba tourmaline, gold, and diamond earrings by Vianna. Pendant in ceramic, white gold, and white and black diamonds by Damiani.

Large link gold and diamond bracelet by Oromalia.

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The Show’s guiding theme, Ordinary is over. Ordinary is back, was explored during the course of the opening ceremony and throughout the many side events during the fair. The oxymoronic slogan was a sort of “manifesto” for the Italian industry to adopt new ways of doing business in light of the many changes in the industry and in consumer attitudes, and is part of the fair management’s road map for the industry in terms of creativity, innovation, craftsmanship, research, and the new media. “For us, innovation and creativity are not simple words to repeat for the sake of promoting the ‘Made in Italy’ label,” declared Roberto Ditri, president of Fiera di Vicenza. “They are words that guide our work every day.” Another aspect of the fair’s promotional efforts is a newly created centre for trends. “We are the first and only trade fair in the world to unveil a research centre dedicated to revealing consumer attitudes and decoding trends,” added Ditri. “Trend Vision Jewellery + Forecasting will serve as a driving engine to promote industry savoir-faire, and will be an authority on research, design, and innovation, from products to lifestyle to consumer emotions.” These were not the only changes at Vicenzaoro Winter 2012. Fair officials took the opportunity to introduce the new corporate image, whose goal is to promote the traditional Vicenzaoro brand—already famous for its worldwide brand awareness—and to highlight the seasonal nature of the events. The new names are “closer to the identity of fashion shows,” explained Ditri. While Italian design excellence was certainly on display among the 1403 exhibitors, there were


Rose gold and diamond ring by Opera Omnia.

Pendant and chain made of a proprietary 1K gold alloy by 1K One Karat Gold. Gold, ruby, and diamond spider web cuff by Staurino.

also 410 foreign brands and companies from 31 countries, including eight new prestigious names: Brumani, Bapalal Keshavlal, Armas Jewelry, Cervera Barcelona, Swarovski Gems, Tirisi Jewellery, Effy Jewelers, and Institut Privé de Gemmologie Monaco. The special machinery section, T-Gold International, attracted 118 manufacturing companies (84 Italian and 34 foreign). More than 27,000 buyers from 120 nations attended the shows, including more than 7,500 foreign buyers, up from the September 2011 event. While buyers from parts of Europe were fewer—expected given the financial and economic issues—other areas, namely Central/Eastern Europe, Brazil, Russia, and the Gulf region showed growth. In terms of sales and new contacts, results were mixed. While many exhibitors reported very good to excellent responses, others were more nuanced in their reactions. In terms of products, the rising price of gold continues to see an increase in the use of alternative materials, such as ceramic, steel, steel mixed with gold, wood, and of course silver. The white metal is now a staple with most major Italian brands, and a new treatment to reduce tarnish on silver was reported by Better Silver, an example of innovation by Italian manufacturers. To counter high gold prices, an exotic solution was presented by 1K One Karat Gold, a company that has developed

a proprietary 1K gold alloy consisting of 4.167 percent recoverable gold. “Manufacturers and designers now have a ductile and malleable material, that opens unimaginable stylistic and design prospects, shifting value from the raw material to the craftsmanship,” states the company. “The micro-structural characteristics of 1KT gold provide high resistance to oxidation, pollution, and perspiration, as well as ease of working. Weighing about 40 percent less than 18K gold, its lighter weight enables larger shapes and volumes. Its workability is superior to fusion and mechanical technology of alloys with higher gold content, while providing pieces of exceptional brightness.” In terms of design and craftsmanship, Brazilian exhibitors Vianna and Brumani caught retailers’ attention with new, colourful, and original creations evoking their own Brazilian Styles. Other interesting creations (too many to name all) included the intricate and elegant spider web bracelet created by Staurino, the marine world brooch by Nite, the delicate rose gold flower ring by Opera Omnia, and the striking ebony cuffs set with black diamonds by Raffaella Mannelli. The next editions of the fair will be Vicenzaoro Spring, May 19 to 23, and Vicenzaoro Fall, September 5 to 8.

Black diamond, Bakelite, and ebony cuff by Raffaella Mannelli.

Multi-gemstone, diamond, and gold earrings by Brumani.

(www.vicenzaoro.org, www.vicenzafiera.it) 77


marketplace – sihh

SIHH – From Grand Complications to Bejewelled Elegance The prestigious, by-invitation-only Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) ended its 22nd edition in Geneva in January on a very upbeat note, and confirmed that fine watchmaking is doing quite well. By Cynthia Unninayar

“Royal Oak Quartz” by Audemars Piguet.

“Linea 10072” by Baume & Mercier.

“1966 Lady Moon Phase” by Girard-Perregaux.

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“Collection Princesse Grace de Monaco” by Montblanc.

Following an outstanding year for the Swiss watch industry as a whole and Richemont in particular (turnover of € 6.9 billion), the fiveday SIHH show took place in an ambiance of calm confidence. More than 13,000 visitors from around the world came to see the 18 participating brands (A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, JeanRichard, Girard Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Montblanc, Officine Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Ralph Lauren, Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels), which offered exclusive watches, ranging from simple elegance to grand complications, from special anniversary timepieces to re-interpretations of iconic watches, from skilled métiers to extraordinary works of jewellery art. Here, we take a brief look at some of the brands, which showcased exquisite high jewellery timepieces, studded with diamonds and coloured gems or masterfully decorated with enamel and other artistic crafts. A champion of haute horlogerie, Piaget also produces extraordinary bejewelled timepieces as well as beautiful haute joaillerie. Continuing its Limelight Garden Party theme, the Geneva brand’s new collection extends an invitation to “walk in the Garden of Eden when evening falls,” where the Piaget Rose is the queen of the enchanting setting. Alongside the rose, magic foliage glistens with countless diamonds and colourful gemstones. The Limelight secret watch (Piaget 56P quartz movement) in 18K gold is set with 668 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 8.7 ct), and mounted on a satin strip with an 18K folding clasp set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds.


atelier-zuppinger.ch

An elected official or a part in a striking watch?

Discover the world of Fine Watchmaking at www.hautehorlogerie.org

The Foundation’s Partners : A. Lange & Söhne | Audemars Piguet | Baume & Mercier | Bovet | Cartier | Chanel | Chopard | Corum | Fédération de l’industrie horlogère suisse | Girard-Perregaux | Greubel Forsey | Harry Winston | Hermès | Hublot | IWC | Jaeger-LeCoultre | JeanRichard | Montblanc | Musée d’art et d’histoire de Genève | Musée d’Horlogerie Beyer, Zürich | Musée d’horlogerie du Locle, Château-des-Monts | Musée international d’horlogerie, La Chaux-de-Fonds | Panerai | Parmigiani | Perrelet | Piaget | Richard Mille | Roger Dubuis | TAG Heuer | Vacheron Constantin | Van Cleef & Arpels | Zenith


MARKETPLACE – SIHH “Velvet” by Roger oger Dubuis.

“Bal Proust” by Van Cleef & Arpels.

“Reverso Squadra Art Ice” by Jaeger-LeCoultre.

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Van Cleef & Arpels also excels in the realm of fine watchmaking with pieces that combine intricate mechanical complications with highly decorated dials and cases. Famous for its jewellery, the French brand’s creative and artful timepieces are equally as impressive. One of the major new lines this year pays tribute to sumptuous balls where four remarkable watches in the “Bals de Légende” collection dance gracefully “through time while stopping in imperial Russia, dazzling Paris, romantic Venice, and audacious New York.” On the Parisian side, the “Bal Proust” timepiece evokes a real ball thrown by the queen of Parisian society, Baroness Guy de Rothschild, to celebrate the centennial birthday of writer Marcel Proust. Driven by a 24-hour Poetic ComplicationTM, delicate gold silhouettes gracefully twirl around the Paris-themed mother-of-pearl dial as time goes by. Travelling to the other side of the Atlantic, the “Bal Black & White” timepiece evokes a ball at New York’s Plaza Hotel on 28 April 1966, given by Truman Capote to mark his literary success. His invitation list comprised “the 500 most famous people in the world,” all dressed in black and white to match the décor. This year, Montblanc introduced its “Collection Princesse Grace de Monaco” watches, jewellery, and writing instruments. Along with two unique high jewellery timepieces, the series “Limelight Garden Party” by Piaget. includes sets of eight and twenty-nine limitededition diamond-studded watches and, for daily wear, several ladies’ watches with stainless steel cases adorned with diamonds. The “Pétales de Rose” model features

“Bal Black & White” by Van Cleef & Arpels.

a case and bracelet in 18K white gold set with nearly 8.8 carats of diamonds, a mother-of-pearl dial with rhodium-plated hands and numerals, and a Montblanc 4810/160 movement. The high jewellery line comprises four sets of one-of-a-kind pieces made in diamonds and/or pink sapphires. In the midst of the luxurious SIHH, Baume & Mercier created its own unique environment evoking the Hamptons and the “underlying value structure of family ties, creative spirit, rich authenticity and relaxing moments.” Among its ladies’ collections, the “Linea 10072” evokes timeless style with a diamond-set bezel, mother-of-pearl dial, and black satin strap. Diamond-set bezels and mother-of-pearl dials seemed to be a favourite this year, as seen by the iconic “Royal Oak Quartz” by Audemars Piguet, featuring a 33-mm steel case set with 40 brilliants around the bezel, and Girard-Perregaux’s “1966 Lady Moon Phase” timekeeper, driven by an automatic winding mechanical movement. Other brands also showcased beautiful jewellery timekeepers as part of their collections. Among them was Roger Dubuis, whose sumptuous Velvet collection includes a sophisticated white gold piece set with 1300 diamonds as well as a striking black watch in titanium, whose bezel is set with 46 amethysts, while the lugs are decorated with 40 black spinels. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s “Reverso Squadra Art Ice” also made a dramatic impression at the show with its sapphire and diamond pavé case. As these exquisite examples demonstrate, fine jewellery and fine watchmaking can come together to create truly fine jewellery watches. (www.sihh.ch)


PHOTOS: TEMPLE ST. CLAIR

SHOWCASING

JEWELRY YOUR PASSION FOR

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MARKETPLACE–BANGKOK GEMS & JEWELRY FAIR Ruby, sapphire, emerald, and diamond earrings by Beauty Gems.

ACCENT ON DESIGN A AT BANGKOK GEMS & JEWELRY FAIR Providing a large stage for Thai jewellery manufacturers and gem dealers, the bi-annual Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair (BGJF), organized by the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association (TGJTA) kicked off its 49th edition in February with the accent on jewellery design and production technology. By Cynthia Unninayar Multi-gemstone and diamond bracelets by Diamrusa.

The accent was on design and quality for Thai jewellery, showcased at the “Ploi Thai” pavilion at the 49th BGJF.

Models showcase Thai jewellery at the fashion event.

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Despite the damage caused by the recent flooding in large parts of Bangkok and central Thailand—the worst in 70 years—and the challenges of the continued weak jewellery markets in the euro zone and the United States, the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair took placed as scheduled. “The BGJF management team monitored the situation on a daily basis, and ultimately decided to hold the fair according to the original schedule,” explained fair officials. “While the floods had no direct effect on the fair itself, many jewellery producers, notably those located on the outskirts of Bangkok, suffered flood damage. At a time when export markets are slow, the floods have imposed a heavy economic burden on many of these manufacturers. That the 49th Fair went off as planned stands as a tribute to the resilience and adaptability of the Thai gem and jewellery industry.” At this edition of the BGJF, special focus was given to the revitalization of the global jewellery and gems industry, with an emphasis on innovation not only in terms of design but also in terms of production technology. “These are necessary to successfully compete in the constantly changing gems and jewellery global market,” declared Somchai Phornchindarak, President of the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association.” “The gems and jewellery sector is one of Thailand’s most important industries, with exports exceeding US$12 billion,” stated Deputy Commerce Minister Poom Sarapol during the opening ceremony. “The industry sustains more than a million skilled


marketplace - bangkok gems & jewelry fair The Zero VAT booth at the BGJF, which allows the dutyfree import of rough gems into Thailand.

Silver and gemstone rings by Goldlip.

Diamond earrings by Viva. 84

workers and their f a m i l i e s .” Diamond suite by A K Mahallati. Clearly, the Thai government places great importance on this sector and has been helping to “streamline trade by reducing obstacles and challenges such as taxes and tariffs, as well as other regulations. The DITP’s newly opened website, Thaitrade.com, will further facilitate online trade for gems and jewellery from Thailand,” he added. The theme of this year’s fair was “Thailand: Ruby Capital,” an apt choice since Thailand supplies the vast majority of rubies to the global market. The ruby theme was echoed in the Design Pavilion with a range of excellent ruby-set pieces, presented under the designation of “Ploi Thai to the World.” (The term “Ploi Thai” is Thailand’s own country name for the gems produced and cut in the nation.) The annual Ploi Thai Jewellery Creation design competition featured original and high quality entries in both gold and silver, which reflected the skills of Thai designers, gem cutters, and craftsman. With each edition, the BGJF becomes more international. This year, the International Pavilion featured 36 countries, including newcomers from South Korea (eight

exhibitors) and the Israel Diamond Institute (twelve exhibitors), while Hong Kong, India, and Italy are well established. More than 31,300 visitors, including nearly 10,300 from abroad, came to see the products of more than 1200 total exhibitors. Another international aspect of the BGJF is the Zero VAT booth, where suppliers from around the world can bring in rough stones for sale in Thailand, free of customs duties and value-added tax (VAT). Since 2010, Zero VAT imports of rough have enabled Thai cutters to secure adequate supplies of raw materials. One of the largest groups of exhibitors was the silver sector. Following the global economic slump and the rising gold prices, Thai silver jewellery exports have increased, and the nation is now the largest single exporter of silver jewellery. It is also the leading exporter of silver jewellery to the USA. Another large section of the fair was devoted to gemstones, not surprising since Thailand is one of the world’s major gem cutting centres. The industry received a big boost in 2010 when the 27-percent import duty on rough was removed and the Zero VAT program was implemented. Thanks to the efforts of the TGJTA, these measures are a good example of cooperation between the government and the private sector. Examples of jewellery produced by Thai brands and manufacturers are given here. The 50th edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair will be held September 13 to 17, 2012. (www.bangkokgemsfair.com)


INTERNATIONALE FACHMESSE FÜR EDELSTEINE, EDELSTEINSCHMUCK UND EDELSTEINOBJEKTE INTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIR FOR GEMS, JEWELLERY AND GEMSTONE OBJECTS

October 5 - 8

2012 www.intergem.de


M A R K E T P L A C E – D O H A J E W E L L E R Y A N D W ATC H E S E X H I B I T I O N

DESTINATION DOHA During the ninth edition of the retail-focused Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition, held in February at the Doha Exhibition Centre in Qatar, more than 60,000 visitors came to see a very impressive line-up of more than 300 luxury brands from around the world. By Cynthia Unninayar To say that Doha dazzled during the sixday fair would be an understatement. The event featured what was probably the highest concentration of luxury watch and jewellery brands under one roof—a sort of mini-Basel combined with Geneva’s SIHH, whose timing falls in between these two fair dates. “The Doha show has become one of the main events to preview the latest collections in the world of fine jewellery and watches,” said Ahmed Abdulla Al Nuaimi, Chairman of the Qatar Tourism Authority (QTA), the show’s organizer. While the QTA organizes world-class events in other areas, including sports, art, and culture, he said that “jewellery is one of the shows that people love here, and we wanted to make a show that was different from everyone else. The Middle East is a strong market and since we are retail-oriented, we provide an environment of trust where customers can feel confident in their purchases.” As the popularity of the Doha shows grows, what are its future plans? “When the show started, it had 2500 square meters. Today, there are more than 15,000 square meters of space and 27 pavilions, with many brands on the waiting list,” adds the Chairman. “Next year, the show will expand, but continue to be very selective. We may also let brands exhibit individually, in a sort of exclusive boulevard setting.” Three of the Main Pavilions The Doha show is arranged by pavilions organized by the prominent retailers in Qatar, which featured their brands in individual booths within the pavilion. Three of the larger pavilions are described here. 86

The grand hall at the entrance of the Doha show (photo: Emad Alwahsh, MPP).

As you step into the luxurious entrance hall, immediately on the right is the imposing Al Fardan Jewellery pavilion. After its creation in 1954, Al Fardan Jewellery has grown into one of the Gulf’s most renowned pearl and jewellery retailers. Its pavilion featured nearly four dozen brands, including Chantecler, Chopard, Fabergé, Harry Winston, Masriera, and Piaget. It also displayed a fabulous collection of its own natural pearl jewellery. Hussain Alfardan, Chairman of the Al Fardan Group, expressed his satisfaction that many Qataris have kept incredible pearl collections over the centuries, and he believes that Qatar, as a nation, possesses the largest collection of natural pearls in the world. On the left is the very elegant Ali Bin Ali Watches and Jewellery pavilion. For

over fifty years, Ali Bin Ali’s Luxury Division has catered to the discerning client with fine jewellery, watches, and writing instruments. It also has exclusive sales rights for mono-brand boutiques, such as Cartier, Montblanc, Panerai, Dunhill, Van Cleef & Arpels, among others. In addition to these brands, the pavilion at the Doha fair featured Aaron Basha, Audemars Piguet, Chanel, Graff, Richard Mille, Stephen Webster, and Ulysse Nardin, among the nearly three dozen participants. Straight ahead was the impressive stand of Al Majed Jewellery. Its origins date back to a young pearl trader who expanded to become one of the major dealers in the region. Ali Al Majed’s sons joined the business, and under Mahdi, the business grew and even survived the recession after cultured pearls swept the market at the outbreak of World War II. In the 1940s, Mahdi established Al Majed Jewellery, which expanded to include gold and diamonds from the best European designers. Today, the legacy continues with his sons Ahmad, Mohammed, and Jamil. Among the dozens of brands they showcased were Crivelli, Gucci, Ivanka Trump, Nanis, Roberto Coin, Patek Philippe, Pomellato, Swarovski, Utopia, and Zydo. Al Majed Jewellery also showcased their pearl division, with some remarkable examples of the company’s own natural pearls, including a magnificent three-strand necklace that took two generations to complete. Mohamed M. Al Majed, the company’s Vice Chairman, explained “Every pearl has a story, and the stories of all these go back generations. Many of these came from my father and grandfather.”


The modern and expanding skyline of Doha, the capital of Qatar, a modern nation with a flourishing economy and the world’s highest per capita income. In the foreground are some of the traditional boats called dhows, used for pearl fishing in the past.

Impressions and Reactions Large diamonds were on the menu at Graff, with many extraordinary pieces. Clive Golanski, Senior Executive, said the brand has been exhibiting in Doha for eight years, and that the show was “very good,” adding that each year, the brand comes up with bigger and more interesting pieces (in diamonds and precious gemstones) to meet the demands of their knowledgeable clientele.

Mohamed El Hoss, Sales and Marketing Manager for Mouawad agreed that customers appreciate quality and are very informed when it comes to design. He has also seen a generational shift in terms of taste. “The younger women seem to prefer smaller pieces, with diamonds and gemstones, while the older ladies prefer the larger ‘bling’ pieces.” And speaking of bling, Mouawad chose the Doha fair to launch its $6.8 million Snow White Princess watch in 18K gold covered in 233 diamonds, for a total of 106.93 carats.

White round, pear-shape and emerald-cut diamond necklace by Graff.

Mohamed M. Al Majed shows his family’s collection of natural pearls. The remarkable four-strand necklace on the left took two generations to complete.

Italian brand Zydo also displayed impressive diamond pieces, including a remarkable multi-million-dollar suite that drew a lot of interest. “While our diamonds are very good sellers, our emeralds and rubies also do well,” said Jack Zybert. “People here appreciate and understand quality. This is the best show in the Middle East, and one of our best shows. We always do well.”

White multi-shape diamond suite by Zydo.

Snow White Princess watch in 18K gold set with 233 diamonds by Mouawad. 87


MM AA RRK KE TEPTL AP CLE A –C DE O H–A DJ EOWHE AL L EJR EY WA NEDL WL AETRC HY E SA EN XDH I BWI TAI TO NC H E S First-time exhibitor, Thiago Abdala, of Brazilian brand, FR Hueb, remarked “We find customers to be very informed and quality-oriented, with younger people more interested in pieces that they can wear everyday and not have to leave in the safe. Our bestseller is a flexible ring that uses a new technology to expand around the finger. South Sea pearls also do well.” Andrea Hansen, CEO of USA-based Ivanka Trump Jewellery, stated that their main clientele is the younger generation. “They like our contemporary pieces, and once they buy something, they come back with their sisters and cousins.” The brand’s most popular collection features tassels, and now it is also launching an emerald line.

Diamond bead tassel earrings by Ivanka Trump.

Tahitian pearl and gemstone “Venezia” earrings by Autore.

With pearls so popular in the Gulf region, it came as no surprise that Australian brand Autore did well at the show, as Philippe Poix, International Executive Director of Jewellery Sales, indicated. “The show has been very good for us. Our South Sea and Tahitian pearl jewellery is highly appreciated by visitors to the show.” In terms of business, several brands reported better sales than last year, while others indicated that business was about the same. Others felt it was important to offer a range of quality products at affordable prices rather than expecting to sell only a few at very high prices. A wide range was, in fact, available in watches and jewellery. 88

The stand of Al Zain, a family-run Bahrain-based brand featuring a wide range of high-quality diamond and gemstone jewellery (photo: Emad Alwahsh, MPP).

Regional Gulf Jewellery Two examples of designs from the Gulf region stood out at the Doha show. One was the launch of a new brand, Noudar, by Noor Alfardan, a member of the Al Fardan family in Qatar. Noor combines the aesthetic splendour of her Arabian heritage with her own design sophistication to offer jewellery for the global Arab woman steeped in the traditions of the ages. The collections include: Imperial Lace, incorporating diamonds or gemstones in lacy rings; Henna, evocative of festive decorations; Zuhoor, a mosaic of sapphires and diamonds; Al Andalus, inspired by geometric art; Mint Leaves, in diamond pavé; Fingerless Gloves, a delicate decoration for the hand; and Enchanted Snake, with a diamond snake curling around the ear.

Al Zain, a well established brand, had its own pavilion at the exhibition. Founded in 1930 by pearl merchant Abdulla Al Zain, it is one of the oldest jewellery companies in Bahrain and operates 15 retail outlets in premium malls across the Middle East, as well as wholesale relationships around the world. The company’s state-of-the-art manufacturing facility in Bahrain has 250 employees, and produces unique handcrafted designs in 18K or 21K jewellery set with diamonds and gemstones, as well as natural Bahraini pearls. In addition to unveiling a new logo at the show—its name in the form of a stylized bird—Al Zain launched a new collection called ArabDeco, which combines “the style of Art Deco with the traditional forms of arabesque art,” as explained by Samar Al Zain, co-owner of the company with her husband and children, adding that the collection was well received at the show. “Doha is a very important show, and we participate every year. It is always good for us,” she added. A diamond and gold pendant by Al Zain (photo: Emad Alwahsh, MPP).

Rings from the Imperial Lace collection by Noudar (photo: Emad Alwahsh, MPP).

By the end of the show, it was clear that the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition has become one of the main events on the world calendar of fine jewellery and watches. (www.dohajewels.com)


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MARKETPL ACE – H O N G K O N G I NTERNATI O NAL J EWELLERY SH OW

HONG KONG IJS – ANOTHER RECORD YEAR With record numbers of attendees, this year’s Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, held in February, was a showcase not only for Asian designers but also for brands from around the world. By Cynthia Unninayar Gemstone, diamond, and gold necklace by Forever Jewels.

Necklace in amethyst, diamonds, and gold by E&V Jewellery.

Enamel and silver hair pin by Gumha Chilbo.

Ring in silver and gold with Swarovski GemsTM by Gemtique/Aaron Shum.

Gold and diamond earrings by Gina. Praying mantis brooch by Space Rock Jewelry Studio. 92

Another new record was set for attendance at this year’s Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, organized by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council, HKTDC. Over 38,000 buyers came to see the show’s 3,100 exhibitors (up nearly 300 from last year), who hailed from 48 countries and regions. The second largest jewellery fair in the world, the HKIJS is clearly the place to see and be seen. The event is also a showcase for the Hong Kong industry, which did well in 2011. The world’s fifth largest exporter of fine jewellery, Hong Kong’s exports grew 35 percent in 2011 to US$6 billion. By value, exports increased to all major regions, with the USA up 29 percent and the euro zone up 20 percent, while the ASEAN and BRIC markets were up 56 and 76 percent, respectively. “Rapid economic development in the emerging markets, especially the Chinese mainland, has resulted in an expanding middle class, which in turn is creating huge product demand,” explained Benjamin Chau, HKTDC deputy executive director. Anecdotally, many exhibitors also indicated that China is helping fuel the recovery in the gem and jewellery sector, along with increased demand from India. Notably, the number of American and European exhibitors was up, as they look towards the Asian markets. Their presence at the Hong Kong fair also offered the additional opportunity of attracting the attention of buyers from their home countries. The overall mood was positive, although opinions from individual brands varied from “better than expected” to “good.” One of the highlights of the show was the 13th Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition where pieces—many inspired by


Arabesque earring and pendant by Kuwayama.

Brooch in silver, gold, and gemstones by Amezine’s Creations.

Jade and diamond pendant by Green G.

the Year of the Dragon—showed great originality and creativity. In terms of colours and trends, just about everything was available in Hong Kong, from simple metal, to gemstone-set pieces, to elaborate coloured and diamond-studded creations. Companies from around the globe offered something for every taste and pocketbook. Creativity in exhibitor stands was also evident. Among them was first-time exhibitor, Gumha Chilbo, based in Seoul, Korea, which specializes in one-of-akind enamel jewellery and metal objects decorated with vitreous enamel, precious metals, and gemstone inlays. “People like unique pieces today,” said Park SooKyung, creative director, “because they represent a person’s individual nature. No two enamel pieces are ever alike.” Another Korean brand, Gina, showed off a diamond and gold tiara and earrings, as well as a range of delicate flower jewellery cast from real flowers using a special proprietary technique. From Singapore, Forever Jewels created an attention-grabbling booth called the Captain Jewels Training Camp where military dress-clad models showcased jewellery while holding a variety of military accessories and equipment. Also from Singapore, designer Yang Lay featured intricately handcrafted silver jewellery adorned with gemstones, which can be worn in a variety of different ways. From neighbouring Malaysia, Amezin’s Creations provided lots of colour with

nature-themed pieces, ranging from flowers to underwater motifs. Japan’s leading jewellery manufacturer, Kuwayama, showcased its delicate Arabesque line—created by hand from tiny 5-mm pieces—and its Chiffon line made from woven gold mesh chains, as well as platinum pieces. Also from Japan was first-time exhibitor Space Rock Jewelry Studio, whose designer Dai Iwama created some amazing insects and arachnids, with movable joints in 18K gold and gemstones. Last, but certainly not least, exhibitors from Hong Kong included a variety of beautiful designs. Green G, with its delicate natureinspired motifs, presented a carved jade pendant decorated with diamond-set bats. E&V Jewellery offered collections featuring colourful jewels with themes ranging from romantic to natural. Elan offered a wide variety of delicate diamond-set flower pieces, among other motifs, while Aspire featured lovely creations from MVee as well as its new brand Vida. One of the larger Hong Kong companies, Aaron Shum Jewelry, which sells in global markets under brand names Gemtique, Coronet Solitaire, Icestrella, and La Posy, announced the collaboration with Swarovski Gems, to create a new collection of Gemtique pieces combining silver, gold, and Swarovski GemsTM genuine gemstones, giving a touch of light-hearted luxury. The next fair will be held March 5 to 9, 2013. (www.hktdc.com/fair/hkjewellery)

Diamond and gold flower ring by Elan. Silver and amethyst jewellery by Yang Lay.

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MARKETPLACE – CENTURION, TUCSON SHOWS

JEWELS DAZZLE IN THE DESERT

Ring in platinum, ruby, and tanzanite by Steven Kretchmer Designs.

During the month of February, the Arizona cities of Phoenix and Tucson were the prime destinations for jewellery and gemstone buyers and designers. The shows kicked off with the prestigious by-invitationonly Centurion event, which took place this year in Scottsdale. By Cynthia Unninayar

Platinum and diamond necklace, Centurion Design Awards winner, by Gumuchian.

Diamond and platinum ring by Christopher Designs.

Cat’s eye rutilated quartz and 14k gold ring by Centurion Emerging Designer Shamila Jiwa.

Gold and diamond link necklace by Rina Limor.

Silver and sapphire lariat by Centurion Emerging Designer Robert Namdar/Revabella.

Facetted tanzanite gemstones by AG Color.

For its eleventh edition, Centurion said goodbye to Tucson and hello to Scottsdale. “Our first year in Scottsdale recorded record numbers,” said Centurion President Howard Hauben. “Full-pass retailers staying at our show hotel leaped by 31 percent, and some 300 total invited retail stores attended.” Anecdotally, the overall ambiance at Centurion was encouraging. Retailers and exhibitors expressed satisfaction with the show and the general mood was upbeat. “The show aisles were busy and our last show day was the busiest we’ve ever had,” Hauben continued. As usual, Centurion conducted a variety of activities and programs. Among the annual events were the 2012 Centurion Design Awards, the Emerging Designers competition, and various sports activities. One of the most highly attended seminars was a presentation by Randi Zuckerburg who discussed “Secrets and Top Ten Trends in Social Media Today,” followed by a panel discussion on social marketing. The Emerging Designers competition attracted 40 hopeful designers from around the world, who went through a long selection process before the final six were chosen. Most of the winners displayed items in silver, indicative of what buyers are looking for today, while a few presented gold pieces. Winners were: Jamie Cassavoy, Shamila Jiwa, Ward Kelvin, Ruchi Kotahwala & Ami Jhaveri, Lydia Lerner, and Robert Namdar/Revabella. Some of the creations are shown here. The 2012 Centurion Design Awards featured a variety of categories and attracted many entries from the exhibitors. The following are


“Pixie Peapod” pendant in silver, gold, diamonds, and pearls by Mark Schneider.

Centurion Contemporary Metals Design Awards winning bracelet by Alishan.

the categories and winners. Platinum: was no surprise that the quartzes—in all Gumuchian; Pearls: Yvel; Gold: H. Weiss; colours and types—continued to do well, Bridal: Etho; Colored Stone Classic: Erica especially as they are used in the new Courtney; Colored Stone Fashion: Spark “affordable luxury” pieces created for Creations; Contemporary Metals: Alishan; the market today. Tourmaline, in its many Diamond Classic: William Levine and colours, was seen at many stands and Sethi Couture; Diamond Fashion: Siera; was said to be selling well, especially the Silver: Eli Jewels, Breuning, Raymond Hak watermelon types. Other popular stones Couture; Watches: Frederique Constant. were spinels and garnets, in a variety of Following Centurion, colours, including the the many Tucson Gem colour-change garnets shows got underway, from East Africa and with shows, both trade the vivid green tones and public, opening all of tsavorite. Dealers over the city. Jewellery indicated that demand exhibitors at AGTA’s was also high for Spectrum of Design the more traditional Pavilion, outside of precious stones of the main AGTA halls, emeralds, sapphires, indicated that traffic and tanzanite. Ethiopian was fair to good, but opals continue to Pendant in chrysocolla, chalcedony, and quartz better than last year. attract attention after dendritic malachite by Helen Serras-Herman. More international in their success last year nature, the GJX housed a wide range of in Tucson as they are seen as a good gem dealers, jewellery manufacturers, and alternative to the higher priced Australian artisans, as well as many national pavilions. opals. The gemstone exhibitors at both AGTA Notable, also, were the continuing sales and GJX generally reported fair to good of rough and sliced gemstones, from sales, an improvement over last year, but emeralds to sapphires to diamonds, still nothing spectacular. Most comments which designers will use in their “natural” centred on the rising prices of coloured jewellery collections, a trend that started stones, due to the higher demand from several years ago. With just about every the emerging nations, primarily the BRIC colour, size, shape, and cut of stone at the countries, especially China and India. Tucson shows, and a wide variety of fine In terms of gemstone trends, there was jewellery at Centurion, there was indeed really no particular trend, however it something for everyone.

Diamond and gold earrings by Todd Reed.

Gold and diamond “Andrastre” ring by Maevona

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EDITORIAL & ADVERTISERS INDEX A K Mahallati 84 AcP/Quadamas 32 AG Color 69, 95 Akhmad Sodiq 62 Akillis 62 Al Coro 57 Al Majed 87 Al Zain 88 Alishan 95 Ambermix 42 Amezine’s Creations 36, 93 Ankit Malpani 60 Antonini 20, 21, 38, 70 Alpilex 89 Art-7 40, 42 Arunashi 62 Atelier Munsteiner 58 Audemars Piguet 78 Autore 38, 70, 88 Baccarrat 58 Bagues 58 Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair 83 Bapalal Keshavlal 48, 49 Baume & Mercier 78 Beauty Gems 82 Bellon 34 Bibigi 36 Bizzotto 12, 13, 38 BK Jewellery 11 Boucheron 61 Brumani 32, 77 Bruner 31, 32 Buccellati C4

Carelle 59 Carla Amorim 30 Carrera y Carrera 64 Casato 18, 19, 34 Cassavoy 61 Chantecler C2, 3, 68 Chopard 34, 54, 57 Christopher Designs 95 Continental Diamond 56, 65 Crivelli 34 Damiani 56, 70, 76 Daniel Espinosa 38 Danka Czapnik 42 David Lin 38, 56 De Grisogono 63 Delphine Leymarie 56 Dewel Joailliers 53 Diamrusa 82 Dietrich 53, 57 E&V Jewellery 92 Eclat Jewels 52 Elan 93 Elise Dray 64 Elke Berr 38, 52, 57 Erica Courtney 30, 36 EV Jewelry 53 FHH 79 Forever Jewels 92, 60 Furret-Jacot 71 Garavelli 76 Gavello 57 Gemtique 92 Georland 57, 61 Gina/Vajra 92

Girard-Perregaux 78 Glenn Bradford 55 Goldesign 60 Goldlip 84 Graff 87 Green G Jewelry 65, 93 Gronkowski 43 Gumha Chilbo 92 Gumuchian 95 Helen Serras-Herman 95 Henri J. Sillam 65 Hera’z 39 IBGM 47 Intergem 85 Isabelle Langlois 28, 29, 36, 52 Italian Design 54, 57, 72 Ivanka Trump 88 Jack Kelege 9, 32 Jaeger-LeCoultre 80 Jane Taylor 52 JCK Las Vegas 81 Jean Christophe 64 Jessica Fong 61 Jewellery Theatre 32, 36, 65 Jewelmer 66, 67 Jochen Pohl 6, 7, 55 Jolfer 36, 57 Jorg Heinz 71 Judith Ripka 56 Katie Decker 63 Kavant 57 Kevin Main 62 King Halim 62 Kuwayama 93

Le Vian 62 Lisa Nik 53 Lorenz Baumer 64 Louis Fiessler 71 M.C.L. 62 Madstone 63 Maevona 95 Magerit 52 Marco Bicego 30, 71 Marco Marchese 34, 54 Mario Buzzanca 60 Mark Schneider 95 Mary Esses 35, 52, 59 Massimo Izzo 30 Mathon Paris 71 Mattioli 30 Maya Jewels 61 Metalsmiths Sterling 55 Misis 60 Montblanc 78 Mouawad 87 MVee 14, 15, 55, 61, 63 NAC Amber 40 Nanis 38 NF Masterjoias 60 Niche The Show 96 Nina Ricci 32 Nite 76 Noudar 88 One Karat Gold 77 Opera Luxury Trading 68 Opera Omnia 36, 68, 77 Oromalia 76 Ostbye 58

Palmiero 61 Pamela Froman 34 Pamela Huizenga 22, 23, 34, 53 Paolo Piovan 65 Paragon 42 Paula Crevoshay 34, 58 Penny Preville 34 Piaget 32, 65, 80 Picchiotti 65 Pippo Perez 60, 63 Ponte Vecchio 36, 59, 60 Raffaella Mannelli 77 Ramon 38, 72 Rebecca C1, 16, 17 Revabella 95 Rhonda Faber Green 64 Richard Mille 63 Rina Limor 54, 56, 95 Robert Namdar 95 Roberto Coin 62, 64 Robin Haley 61 Rodney Rayner 53, 58 Roger Dubuis 80 Ruth Grieco 54 S&A Designs 42 Scott Kay 55 Shamballa 55 Shamila 95 Sharart 59 Shawish Geneva 70 Sicis Jewels 4, 5, 60, 72 Singapore Int’l Jewellery Show 90, 91 Space Rock Jewelry 60, 92

SRK Export 73 Staurino 55, 77 Stephen Webster 62, 55 Steven Kretchmer Designs 95 Suna Bros 54 Swarovski Gems 54 Sylvie Corbelin 65 Syna 30 Talento Gioielli 38 Tavares Gems 54 Thistle & Bee 33 Todd Reed 95 Tournaire 72 Tresor 36, 37, 56, 59 Trigrand 63 TTF Studio 64 Ugo Cala 71 Utopia 56 Valerie MacCarthy 55 Van Cleef & Arpels 80 Vendorafa 68, 70 Vianna Brasil 26, 27, 30, 54, 76 Victor Mayer 58 Vincent Agor 36 Viva 84 Wellendorff 97 What’s Your Sign 55 Yael Designs 52 Yael Sonia 24,25, 30, 53, 59 Yang Lay 93 Yvel 70 Zimmermann Design 42 Zorab 64 Zydo 87

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f r e e ly s p e a k i n g

Bringing People Together The German jewellery brand, Wellendorff, receives hundreds of letters and emails from friends and clients around the world relating their own very personal experiences with angels. One letter particularly moved Wellendorff. It is the true story of Heidi Thomas who lives in the English County of Devon. After reading it, you will see why this touching letter inspired the brand to create its line of “Angel’s Wings.” Another example of how jewellery can bring people together in mysterious ways. 29 April 2011 Eva Wellendorff Alexander-Wellendorff-Str. 4 75172 Pforzheim Germany

Dear Mrs Wellendorff, As we all know, there are different kinds of angel - archangels, guardian angels, cherubs and cupids. I should like to tell you a brief story about how one of these angels affected my life. Many years ago I was vacationing on the west coast of Denmark and while hunting for amber, I found an amulet with a hand-painted angel on the front. A name and year had been engraved on the back. It was an unusual pendant and since no-one came to claim it, I was allowed to keep the angel and wore it every day as a talisman. Several years later I met an Englishman in a bar in Munich. He scrutinized my pendant and told me that his late wife used to have an angel just like it. When at the end of the evening he gave me his business card, my heart almost stood still, because not only did he live in Denmark, but his name was the same as the one on the back of my amulet. We arranged to meet the next day for dinner, because I wanted to hear his story - yes, it was indeed his wife’s angel, which he had given to her on their wedding day. Without hesitation I returned the angel to its proper owner. The situation was upsetting for both of us. I had given up the angel I had become so fond of and he was reliving sad memories. We did not have dinner together. We exchanged addresses and he promised to give me something to compensate for the pendant. A few weeks and some telephone calls later he announced he was travelling to Munich (with his son) for Christmas. He brought me the amulet back and proposed to me! Despite the objections of my parents and my son, who was then 20, I married the man who was still almost a stranger, in a very quiet ceremony in Denmark. In our case the angel pendant was not a guardian angel but a cupid, and he has kept us together for 29 happy years. Yours sincerely

This magical, enchanting story shows that angels not only protect, they also bring love and good things to life. This notion is what led Wellendorff to create the new jewellery collection “Angel’s Wings.” 97


No 294 / Winter - Trends Guide 2012

OPINIONS

No 295 / Summer

2012

WHY PEOPLE ARE SO EXCITED ABOUT CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS . . . “What do I love about CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS—this spot on, in-the-know, publication? It’s like when you were in high school and you couldn’t wait for each new month’s issue of Vogue! Cynthia and her team have created a mouthwatering jewel. From Top Ten Trends to Trends & Colours, our staff can’t wait to share the news with our clients. We recently had an event in our salon for about 40 women on Jewelry 101: Breaking All the Rules. CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS was an integral part of the evening’s talk (and each guest was gifted a copy, too). It helped show our clients how not to be afraid of wearing bold colors, mixing and matching, or wearing that signature piece with pride. CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS has also been a great selling tool for Christensen & Rafferty Fine Jewelry. On more than one occasion, we have sold pieces due to images featured in their fashion-intense magazine. This is one publication that should be a ‘must’ on jewelry counters and coffee tables in fine jewelry stores globally!” – COLLEEN RAFFERTY, CHRISTENSEN & RAFFERTY, SAN MATEO, CALIFORNIA

“CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS is not just “another pretty face.” Yes, the photos are exquisite and the paper has a nice feel, but the importance of the magazine is that it is all encompassing. There are personal interviews, scientific information, and, most importantly, magnificent jewelry that is innovative and new. Reading the magazine is like meandering down a gentle river; it flows gracefully through the beauty that is our industry while examining the thoughts of those who create. Cynthia Unninayar, the editor, has a personal knowledge of almost every aspect of our industry. Her energy is boundless. Her extensive travels provide a broad spectrum of jewelry, always with a fresh perspective. The graphics are cutting edge. I eagerly await each new edition.” – ROSE MUELLER, LITHOS JEWELRY, ST. PETERSBURG, FLORIDA

“I always look forward to receiving the newest issue of CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS... because it really is the jeweler’s source for the latest trends and colours! I use each issue with my staff to discuss what is new in jewelry and fashion so that we can share this information with our customers. It is a great sales tool when working with our clients since the graphics and photos tell the story. We keep it on our counter and refer to it frequently. CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS also gives me a behind the scenes look into the people and issues in our global industry, which is always fascinating. I always learn something new! – SUSAN FOTOS, HIGASHI PEARLS AND FINE JEWELRY, LEMOYNE, PENNSYLVANIA

“CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS exudes high-end jewelry. When I open the magazine, everything about it speaks to me about the best our industry has to offer.” – LOURDES ZEIK-CHIVI, LEONARDO JEWELERS, RED BANK, NEW JERSEY.

CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS is like a fashion magazine for the jewelry world. Every issue is a great source for global trends and always showcases fantastic designers. – SAMANTHA LEFKOWITZ, SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE, D’ORAZIO & ASSOCIATES, LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 98


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CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS Summer 2012  

International Jewellery trends & colours

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