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FLAV R S C E N E MAG AZ I N E

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SCEN E MAGAZI N E

Editor Vince Grzegorek Editorial Managing Editor Eric Sandy Music Editor Jeff Niesel Staff Writer Sam Allard Writer-at-large Kyle Swenson Web Editor Bliss Davis Dining Editor Douglas Trattner Contributing Dining Editor Rachel Hunt Stage Editor Christine Howey Visual Arts Editor Josh Usmani Advertising Senior Multimedia Account Executive John Crobar, Shayne Rose Multimedia Account Executive Kiara Hunter-Davis Creative Services Production Manager Steve Miluch Layout Editor/Graphic Designer Christine Hahn Staff Photographer Emanuel Wallace Business Asst. To The Publisher Angela Lott Sales Assistant/Receptionist Megan Stimac Staff Accountant Kristy Dotson Circulation Circulation Director Don Kriss Euclid Media Group Chief Executive Offi cer Andrew Zelman Chief Operating Offi cers Chris Keating, Michael Wagner Human Resources Director Lisa Beilstein Digital Operations Coordinator Jaime Monzon Chief Financial Offi cer William Mickey www.euclidmediagroup.com National Advertising Voice Media Group 1-800-278-9866, voicemediagroup.com Cleveland Scene 737 Bolivar Rd, #4100 Cleveland, OH 44115 www.clevescene.com Phone 216-241-7550 Retail & Classifi ed Fax 216-241-6275 Editoral Fax 216-802-7212 E-mail scene@clevescene.com Cleveland Scene Magazine is published every week by Euclid Media Group.

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Superior Pho | Photo by BurkleHagen

T

here’s never been a better time to enjoy Northeast Ohio’s dining scene. We seem to say that every year, but every year it’s true. The culinary boom has touched every corner of Cleveland and afforded diners a rich tapestry of options old and new, familiar and fresh, local and from across the globe, high and low and everywhere in between. Here, then, is our annual look at the people, places, dishes and trends that brought us to this pinnacle. Bon appetite. best things we dim Boy 101: A 38 Polish 5 The 22 Demystifying ate all year sum: A beginner’s short history of guide to your new Cleveland’s seminal The dining trends favorite meal sandwich and the 8 we loved and hated new wave of places in 2016 Smoke rising: serving it up 25 Cleveland’s long restaurant love affair with 8 of our favorite 13 The 40 openings we’re barbeque continues diners, because most looking forward to in 2017

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with a new bent for a new era

everything doesn’t have to be so fancy

butchers From east to west, The inner-ring 15 The keeping Cleveland 31 42 Cleveland can get a neighborhoods get in good meats taste of the south. a lot of dining love.

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The many flavors of Asiatown, one of Cleveland’s most diverse and delicious neighborhoods

That hasn’t always been the case

These suburban gems deserve it too

never been 35 There’s a better time to days: It’s 44 Glory get a slice of any never been easier style of pizza in Northeast Ohio

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FLAV R S C E N E MAG A Z I N E

The Best Things I Ate This Year A dining critic’s highlights from 365 days of Cleveland food

By Douglas Trattner

A

s I look back over my soup-stained notes from the past 12 months of eating my way through Cleveland, these are the items that stand out the most. When it comes to “last meal” dishes, any of these will do for me, thanks.

Giant Beef Rib at Mabel’s BBQ ½ iÛiÀ v À}iÌ Þ wÀÃÌ “giant beef rib” at Mabel’s. The 2-pound, bone-in beast landed on the table with a thud, the meat so tender that it jiggled like Jell-O. Slow-smoked until it was tender enough to eat with a spoon, the juicy, beefy meat is rich, satisfying and worth the splurge. Split by two, three, even four people, the rib (only available at dinner) is king of the ‘cue.

Chickenrones at the Plum I adore pork rinds, but many modern preparations leave Ì i à } Ì > ` yÕvvÞ Ì >Ì you forget they even came from an animal. Not so with the chickenrones served at the Plum. These crispy, crunchy morsels still taste like chicken skin, arguably the best part of the yardbird. A sprinkle of sea salt, a dip in hot sauce, and you’re in snack heaven.

Tonkotsu Ramen at Mason’s Creamery There might be nothing crazier than ordering tonkotsu ramen at an ice cream shop, but people who have attended one of these ramen pop-ups know it’s worth the wait in line (even with the risk that they’ll run out before you get to the front). The bowls of rich, fatty

Chickenrones at the Plum | Photo by Emanuel Wallace

pork broth, chashu (pork belly), soy-marinated soft-cooked eggs, enoki mushrooms and ramen are so good, these guys just might open up a ramen shop.

Chicken and Funnel Cake at Warren’s Spirited Kitchen

V i > ` Ü>vyià à > classic dish that sets the crunch of juicy fried chicken against the backdrop of soft, sweet Ü>vyið -VÀiÜ Ì >Ì Ãi Ãi° At Warren’s Spirited Kitchen Ì iÞ ` ÌV Ì i `À>L Ü>vyià v À > bird’s nest of deep-fried funnel cake, a nod to the community’s popular Geauga County Fair.

Fair food always wins.

Garnachas at El Rinconcito Chapin Imagine a plate of nachos

that swaps the thin and crispy chips for thick, corny tortillas and you begin to get a sense of the joy that comes with every order. Each dense and sturdy base is topped with a spoonful of seasoned ground beef, a dollop of bright salsa, raw red onion and a sprinkling of salty cheese.

Coconut Curry Noodle Soup at Thai Kitchen At Thai Kitchen, they manage to improve upon the classic Thai hot and sour soup by elevating it to entree status.

They do so by supplementing the coconut milk-infused broth with chewy egg noodles, crispÌi `iÀ V>Õ y ÜiÀ > ` LÀ VV ] and a heaping dose of red curry. Select shrimp, chicken, pork, beef or tofu and savor the sweet and spicy brilliance.

The Handful at Boiling Seafood Messy, delicious fun really is the name of the game at Boiling Seafood, an eastside shop modeled after similar concepts down South and out 7iÃÌ° -i>v ` i VÀ>Üwà ] shrimp and clams are boiled in > y>Û ÀvÕ LÀ Ì ] Ì ÃÃi` > aggressively seasoned spice mixture, and delivered to the table in clear plastic bags.

What happens next might not be pretty, but it’s awesome.

Grilled Octopus at Bold Food and Drink This is one of the best octopus dishes in town. It ÃÌ>ÀÌÃ Ü Ì wÀ LÕÌ Ì V iÜÞ meat kissed by the grill with glorious charred bits. Those Ü>À « iVià v yià >Ài Ì ÃÃi` into a cool Mediterranean

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FLAV R S C EN E MAG A Z I N E

Fettucini Carbonara at Nora Photo by Emanuel Wallace

Best Things, cont. salad with tomatoes, cucumber, hearts of palm and a wee bit of feta.

Fettucini Carbonara at Nora The garnish of crispy, delicate matchstick spuds in Nora’s carbonara is more than chef’s conceit: The addition makes the dish. Arranged like a crown of thorns around the soft noodles, the potatoes add welcome texture to this creamy, oozy dish of pasta, egg and pancetta. A grating of saltcured egg yolk offers a kick of umami.

Lamb Carpaccio at Salt Throughout her 20-year career, chef Jill Vedaa has been on the bloody forefront of the small-plate crusade, a slow-moving campaign if ever there was one. But thanks to dishes like the lamb carpaccio at Salt, diners are beginning

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to see the light. The lamb loin à y >à Ãi>Ài`] i>Û } Ì i meat essentially raw. It is sliced whisper-thin, revealing a rosyÀi` y iÃ Ì >Ì Ã LÕÌÌiÀ à vÌ° / i slices are set against the cool crunch of shaved red cabbage and gilded with a punchy Moroccan-spiced yogurt sauce laced with cumin, cilantro, garlic and lemon.

Blood Sausage at Caribe Bake Shop Whenever you see the term “acquired taste,” you can bet that whatever follows is anything but mainstream.

That’s certainly the case with blood sausage, a blood-based sausage with scores of ethnic and cultural interpretations.

The best among them is the Spanish morcilla, a mix of pork blood, fat, onions and cooked rice, which gives the sausage a surprising buoyancy. The best I ever tried is at Caribe Bake Shop, where the sinister

looking pistons pack a mineral Ì v Üi` LÞ > Ã } w V> Ì creeper heat. For a real treat, take some home and pan fry them in a little olive oil.

Whole Grilled Chicken at Steven’s Chicken Sometimes it is the simplest of things that leaves the biggest impression. That was the case with the grilled chicken served at this modest Latin eatery in the Clark Fulton neighborhood. The owner marinates the birds in a secret brew of citrus juices, herbs and spices, spatchcocks them and grills them over glowing lump charcoal.

Fried Cheese Curds at Banter I could easily have topped this list with any of Banter’s dreamy poutine dishes – as a traditionalist I tend to go with the classic stack of frites,

gravy and cheese curds. But something magical happens when you take fresh white cheddar curds, beer batter (the Banter boys opt for Colt 45 Malt Liquor naturally) and deep-fry them until hot and crisp, and serve them up with tomato puree and remoulade for dipping. These are no bland, rubbery fried mozz stix, I assure you.

Shabu-Shabu at Ushabu It took an age-old Asian tradition to bring a unique dining experience to Cleveland. The interactive and immersive act of cooking meat in broth — shabu-shabu — is elevated to new heights at this elegant Tremont bistro.

High-end meats and seafood, along with seasonal veggies and noodles, are cooked in hot broth and paired with sauce and rice for a soul-satisfying dining experience.

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FLAV R S C EN E MAG A Z I N E

Boiling Seafood

Photo by Emanuel Wallace

Buy, Sell, Hold Our take on the best and worst dining trends of 2016

By Douglas Trattner

L

ike iÛiÀÞ Þi>À] Óä£È Ü>à w i` Ü Ì VÕ >ÀÞ ÌÀi `à } `] L>` > ` ` vviÀi Ì° / iÀi >Ài à vÌà Ì> } « >Vi Ì i V> >À iÌ« >Vi Ì >Ì we are thankful for, like the waning tendency to “put an egg” on everything and the mounting tide of craft butchers. Other currents, like the unrelenting onslaught of fast-casual concepts built around everything from Indian food to sushi, seem to be sticking around like stubborn storm clouds. iÀi] Ì i ] >Ài à i v Ì Ã Þi>À½Ã ÌÀi `Ã Ì >Ì Üi½` Ûi Ì Ãii ÃÌ V >À Õ `] }iÌ ÃÌ À ii« V }°

Buy: Spicy-Ass Seafood in a Bag One of the best meals I had all year was at a small, dark Asian eatery in Cleveland Heights, where I plucked steamed seafood out of a plastic bag. While new to Cleveland, the “boiling seafood” concept, which is like the love child of Szechuan hot pot and a Cajun crab boil, is hugely popular out West and down South. In addition to our Boiling

À>Üw à ] Üi½ à Ãii Ì i iÀ «i Ì i iÌÀ Ì - ÀiÜ>Þ neighborhood. We could use more unique, celebratory places like them.

Sell: Sheet Pan Plates / i w ÀÃÌ Ì i Ã>Ü > «iÀ>Ì À ` Ì Ã Ì Õ} Ì\ 7i ] Ì Ã Ã > affordable, creative alternative to pricy tableware. The next time I saw it, I chalked it up to old-fashioned concept borrowing. But it

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never stopped happening. Technically a quarter or eighth sheet pan, depending on the application, these stainless steel rimmed trays are w i v À L>ÀLiVÕi] Ü iÀi Ì iÞ >VÌÕ> Þ >Ài > ÃÌi« Õ« vÀ ÌÀ>` Ì > « >ÃÌ V ÌÀ>ÞÃ] LÕÌ iÌ½Ã Ì }iÌ V>ÀÀ i` >Ü>Þ° / >Ìi°

Buy: Real Bagels For close to three generations, eastside Jews have been reared on Ì i V «>À>L i > ޽à >}i Ã] Ü V ­> } Ü Ì Ì i >Ìi Ƃ ÃÌiÀ Bagels) introduced Clevelanders to real New York-style “water bagels.” Real bagels are made from fresh dough, allowed to rise, L i` Ü>ÌiÀ] > ` Ì i L> i`° 7 i ÃÌi À à > ` ÀÕi}}iÀ½Ã come nowhere close to bagel brilliance, Cleveland Bagel does.

Enjoyed by gentiles and Jews alike, this new brand is helping to plug the bagel hole that exists in the market.

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Buy, Sell, Hold d, cont.

Hold: Giant Breweries Just as fears of a restaurant bubble are percolating through town, industry watchers are training their foamy gaze on the craft beer market. Platform Beer seemingly jumped from taproom darling to mega-brewer overnight. Market Garden just unveiled an equally ambitious production brewery. Fat Head’s just announced that it had outgrown its production brewery and plans to build one three times the size. On the horizon brews like Masthead, Saucy Brew Works and Boss Dog will join other large producers like Great Lakes, Buckeye, Goldhorn, Hansa and others, sparking “too much” talk.

Buy: Cideries What happened to all the cideries we were promised? You can’t make a move without stepping in a puddle of craft beer, but good ÕV w ` } > V> VÀ>vÌ >À` V `iÀ° 7i >Ài Ì > vÕ v À , V >À` ,i>` > ` à } à ÃÌÞ i VÀi>Ì Ã >Ì À vw `iÀ 7 À Ã] LÕÌ Üi >Ûi ½Ì even begun to scratch the surface. Platform Beer spinoff Urban Apple was supposed to open last year in the Flats, but production now will be absorbed by Platform. Given the quantity and quality of local fruit, you’d think we’d be drowning our sorrows in local cider by now.

Buy: Food Halls Over the past few years, food halls have multiplied like tribbles in V Ì ià i iÜ 9 À ] °Ƃ° > ` V>} ° / iÃi LÕÃÌ } ` À >À iÌà combine under one roof a variety of established local restaurant and food truck operators, who run smaller shops with trimmer menus. We’ll have to wait until 2018 to see what Jonathon Sawyer cooks up for the Van Aken District food hall, but we’re already years behind other cities.

Hold: Adult Gaming Destinations I’ll admit that 16-Bit, which combines classic arcade games and pinball with a full bar, is absolute nirvana for a Gen Xer like me, > ` />L iÌ « > ` - `iµÕiÃÌ >Ài >LÃ ÕÌi Þ } Ì Ü Ì > > }

gamers, but I fear we might be reaching “peak pastime.” Super Electric is brilliant, but Punch Bowl feels a little contrived. Erie Social,

iÛi > `½Ã wÀÃÌ ` À à ÕvyiL >À` V ÕL] Ã Õ `à «À à } >à i ] > ` L Ü } Ü Ì >Ìià à vÕ >Ì « >Vià i > > ½Ã > ` À iÀ Ƃ iÞ] but just how many balls, pucks, dice and darts can we keep in motion?

Buy: Restaurant Carts "À`iÀ Ì i > > >à ÃÌiÀ >Ì 6i ÛiÌ /> } , > ` Ã Ì L>V >à host Paulius Nasvytis wheels up his cart to prepare the classic New "À i> à ÃÌÞ i `iÃÃiÀÌ p iÞiLÀ Ü Ã }i } y> Li > ` > ° "À`iÀ the pressed duck at Edwins and watch as the carcass is placed into a i` iÛ> } `iÛ Vi Ì >Ì «Õ ÛiÀ âià L iÃ] µÕiwià À}> à > ` wrings free every last bit of bloody juice. Such fun! Nothing engages a diner more than a cart — be it laden with stinky cheese or Dover sole — so let’s keep them rolling.

Buy: Small Plates What, exactly, will it take to get everybody on the small-plate wagon? Salt in Lakewood is proof that in the right hands, small plate dining is social, exciting and creatively refreshing compared to Õ ÃÌi> > ` « Ì>Ì ið iÛi > ` >à Ãii > À Ãi Ì i vÕ Þ appetizer or sharable starter, but those are not true small plates, Ü V iÃÃi Ì > Þ >Ài V « Ãi` i> Ã Õ Ì Ì i Ãi Ûið / i “Mediterranean Diet” made more waves here than does the actual Mediterranean diet.

Buy: Killer Coffee Ûi Ì i i }Ì > ` ÃiÛiÀ ÌÞ v ÀÌ >ÃÌ Ü ÌiÀÃ] Üi Ã Õ ` be lousy with excellent coffee cafes by now. Don’t get us wrong; we >Ài Ài Ì > v ÀÌÕ >Ìi Ì >Ûi }> i V > } } ë Ìà i , à } Star, Pour, duck-rabbit, newcomers like Six Shooter, Passengers and iÛ > ] > ` ÃÌ> Ü>ÀÌà i * i Ý] Û â>Ì ] « > ` Ì iÀð ÕÌ Ì iÀi à à ÕV À v À }À ÜÌ > >À iÌ i iÛi > ` Ì >Ì } À wià }Ài>Ì v ` > ` `À °

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Ohio City Provisions | Photo courtesy of Ohio City Provisions

But Wait, There’s More As we close the book on 2016, the restaurant openings we’re most looking forward to in the new year

By Douglas Trattner

J

ust as a reminder, I’m going to rattle off the names of a few recently opened restaurants: Mabel’s BBQ, Coastal Taco, Salt, Ushabu, 811, The Plum, Sarita, Bold, Vita Urbana, Hansa Brewery, Nuevo Modern Mexican, Proper Pig, Goldhorn Brewery, Parker’s Downtown and The Burnham.

These are just some of the restaurants that have opened in the past year, which themselves joined scores of new eateries that have debuted in Greater Cleveland over the past couple years. If you think we’re going to start

seeing a slowdown moving forward, you would be wrong; the number of restaurants that are in the planning stages and set to open their doors over the coming weeks and months is equally impressive.

Starting in the heart of DOWNTOWN, one of the most ambitious and impressive projects of the year is unfolding in the Garfield Building on East Sixth Street. That’s where the Marble Room is currently taking shape in the columnlined lobby of the former National City Bank. When

it opens this spring, high rollers will be knee-deep in oysters, steaks and martinis.

We’ll soon see a brand new state-of-the-art brewery called Masthead Brewing at Superior and East 12th Street, if you can believe it.

After 35 years in suburbs like Beachwood, Chagrin Falls, Hudson and Mayfield, Yours Truly is preparing to open its first downtown location in the historic Halle Building.

El Puente Viejo, a new “taco and tequila bar,” is on track to open in Playhouse Square any day now, while Zaytoon Lebanese Kitchen, a Middle

Eastern cafe also in Playhouse Square, should drop in the coming months. According to company reps, Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville will open in Flats East Bank sometime during the second quarter of 2017. And finally, the booze-fueled Taco Bell Cantina will combine cheap tacos and the beverages that make them taste good.

Over in OHIO CITY, which continues to percolate with new eateries, we are seeing growth taking shape in the less-developed fringes.

Bakersfield Tacos will open sometime this coming year

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in the old Grind spot at the corner of West 25th Street and Keene Court, a block south of Lorain, while Citizen Pie, the popular Neapolitan-style pizza shop in Collinwood, will open its second spot on West 25th a block south of Bakersfield.

The Erie Social, meanwhile, is currently taking shape on the western edge of the neighborhood. When it opens at Lorain and West 45th in 2017, the indoor shuffleboard club and bar will bring more foot traffic to that stretch. A little closer to town at West 32nd and Lorain, the fullservice butcher shop and local foods market Ohio City Provisions should finally be up and running by the time you read this. The Hingetown pocket of Ohio City will gain a spacious new brewery and pizza tavern when Saucy Brew Works opens in the old Steelman Building.

After a couple of sleepy years, TREMONT is picking up where it left off thanks to a few new projects. We lost Lolita one year ago to fire, but Michael Symon will launch Sherla’s Chicken & Oysters, a casual and fun spot serving raw oysters, smoked seafood boards, and fried and woodroasted chicken. Although the quick-serve market next door already is up and running, the Mediterranean bistro Merchant Street Eatery will add fresh life to the old Ligali’s-Porcelli’sBistro on Lincoln Park-Sage Bistro space. Two new pizza options will come to life when Noce Gourmet Pizza out of Chardon and Crust out of, well, Tremont, both open new shops in the neighborhood.

DETROIT SHOREWAY continues to forge ahead despite a high-profile loss in Arcadian. Astoria Market and Cafe, likely open by

now, combines a full-service Mediterranean restaurant and bar with a well-stocked retail marketplace for neighbors.

Across the street, the Boiler will bring the spicy boiled seafood concept made popular in Cleveland Heights (and elsewhere) to Gordon Square. Around the corner on West 65th Street, Il Rione Pizzeria will introduce the community to “real New York/ New Jersey-style pizza.”

In CLEVELAND HEIGHTS, the former Lemon Grass space near the Cedar Lee Theatre will become Boss Dog Brewing, a brewpub, while across the street Zoma will bring Ethiopian food to the neighborhood. Just down the hill, the former Mad Greek space will come to life as the latest Barrio location.

In MAYFIELD, Giovanni’s Ristorante owner Carl Quagliata will open the Texas-style Smokin’ Q in the longtime home of Fisher’s Tavern. In TWINSBURG, Marc Garofoli will open the second outpost of his popular BBQ spot Oak & Embers in the longtime home of Marcelita’s restaurant.

Further east in MORELAND HILLS, the high-end French American restaurant Cru will open in a building designed to look like a small-scale French country inn. Over in ORANGE VILLAGE, a second location for Slyman’s Tavern will open in a former Red Robin while the $230 million Pinecrest development will feature a plethora of new dining and entertainment spots like Red the Steakhouse, Flip Side Burgers, Firebirds Wood Fired Grill, City Works Eatery, Fusian, Bipibop Asian Grill and Pinstripes Bistro, Bowling and Bocce.

Phew. That’s it. For now, of course.

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Good Meats The butchers new and old keeping Cleveland in fresh cuts

By Douglas Trattner Wholesome Valley Farm | Photo by BurkleHagen

A

t Ohio City Provisions, which recently opened on Lorain Avenue, shoppers can order a thick steak that came from a steer that was reared on little more than grass and sunshine at a farm owned by the proprietor and butchered by his partner.

For years Trevor Clatterbuck, who is the founder of the thriving local foods subscription service Fresh Fork, has been seeking out small family farms in the region to provide the produce, dairy, eggs, meats, breads and grains Ì >Ì w Ì i Üii Þ }À>L L>}Ã v nearly 3,000 members. In the very recent past, Clatterbuck added one more farm to the mix: his own. Located in Wilmot, Ohio, Wholesome Valley Farm is a 200-acre Amish-run farm that is known for its organic produce and pasture-raised livestock.

“We are really excited to share with the customers our true farm-to-meat-case experience,” Clatterbuck says of his and his partner Adam Lambert’s Ohio City Provisions.

mid-2000s, fortunes began The shop is just the latest example of our growing affection to change. Better animal husbandry, a heightened for the neighborhood butcher.

Cleveland is and always has been fascination with home cooking, and a demand by the consumer a meat-and-potatoes town, and for meats raised without the good folks who break down antibiotics, hormones and ÛiÃÌ V > ` `ÀiÃÃ Ì i y ià v À }i iÌ V> Þ ` w i` vii`à > personal consumption are the combine to true heroes help usher in a of the home. new generation One look of meat cutters. at the West “Before the Food “I think we’re Side Market, Network, no one seeing more where beef, butcher shops pork, lamb even heard of pork opening up and poultry belly, and now they now because butchers the whole outnumber all all keep asking for farm-to-table the other types pork belly.” restaurant of vendors movement has combined, been doing illustrates such a good that point in job educating diners on why a spotless clarity. particular piece of meat is better Since “peak butcher,” we’ve than what’s at the grocery store,” seen decades of attrition thanks explains Melissa Khoury, who to a catalog of attacks that along with partner Penny Barend include convenience foods, will soon open Saucisson in suburban supermarkets and Slavic Village. a greater frequency of eating The trend is also giving a outside the home. But in the

much-needed boost to enduring and irreplaceable Cleveland classics like the Sausage Shoppe, K & K Portage Market, Raddell’s Sausage Shop and others.

In 1978, Sanford Herskovitz launched a small business called “Mister Brisket and his Meatmobile,” a door-to-door meat delivery company. “Mr. Brisket,” who happens to hold a Ph.D. in psychology and enjoys listening to opera in his small Cleveland Heights butcher shop, was decades ahead of the curve when it came to stocking high-quality preservative- and additive-free meats, poultry and seafood. Nearly 40 years later, he has become the de facto supplier for many of the city’s top restaurants.

It’s been 80 years since Jaworski Meats launched as a small butcher shop in Slavic Village’s old Newburgh Market and business has never been better, says owner Mark Jaworski, who took over the operation after his father Fred passed away.

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“We’ll do 500 people on a Saturday,” he says. “It gets a little crazy.”

Jaworski credits the Food Network and popularity of farm-to-table restaurants with upping demand for ingredients and cuts not typically available at the local supermarket, which no longer bothers to staff inhouse butchers. More and more shoppers are coming through Jaworski’s door asking for items like headcheese, veal hearts, sweet breads and tripe.

“Before the Food Network, no one even heard of pork belly, and now they all keep asking for pork belly.”

Perhaps more importantly, today’s consumers better

comprehend the true cost of good food and are willing to spend more for sustainably raised meat that comes from local suppliers they know and trust.

Joining Ohio City Provisions and Saucisson in the very near future is Butcher & the Brewer, Ü V w > Þ Ü «i ÌÃ ÀiÌ> butcher shop as a new outlet for the in-house butchering and charcuterie program it has been doing since the restaurant opened.

But today’s butcher shops go much deeper than our grandfather’s meat cutter. In addition to slicing and selling traditional steaks, chops, roasts > ` w iÌÃ Ì >Ì `iÀ Ûi > Þ

from the primal cuts, artisanal butchers utilize the entire animal from nose to tail. To sell those out-of-the-ordinary bits, a proprietor must be creative and talented, producing what folks in the business call “value-added products.”

In addition to fresh-cut beef rib-eyes, strips and sirloins, just-cut pork chops and loins, and whole or sectioned local poultry, Butcher & the Brewer’s white subway-tiled shop will carry housemade charcuterie like salamis, sausages, snack sticks and jerky. Saucisson crafts everything from crispy pork rinds and zesty Merguez sausage to currywurst and roasted garlic bologna in an attempt to utilize

every last delicious bit of the beast.

But no operators exemplify the craft butcher movement more than Lambert and Clatterbuck.

By raising much of the livestock themselves — from selecting ëiV wV iÀ Ì>}i LÀii`Ã Ì raising them on non-GMO feed — they can guarantee that the end products will be as good as they possibly can be. Grass-fed Hereford cattle, pasture-raised Mangalitsa pork, and truly freerange poultry all will be available in various shapes and forms at the shop, including retail cuts, charcuterie, sausages and pates.

For Cleveland carnivores, there has never been a better time to shop, cook and eat.

Mr. Brisket | Photo by BurkleHagen

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The Great Melting Pot The many flavors of Cleveland’s Asiatown, one of the city’s most delicious and diverse dining neighborhoods

By Douglas Trattner Superior Pho | Photo by BurkleHagen

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“

hen my father opened Superior Pho, we totally expected to serve only the Asian community,” Chris Nguyen recalls. “At the time, he couldn’t get a good, authentic bowl of pho around here so he decided to do it himself. I don’t think he expected the community at large to embrace it as much as they did. He was pleasantly surprised.”

The year was 2002, and already Cleveland’s “new Chinatown” was picking up considerable steam. Our city’s original Chinatown thrived in the ’30s, ’40s and ’50s in an area >À}i Þ V w i` Ì , V Üi Avenue between East 21st and East 24th St, where restaurants like Golden Gate, Shanghai and

½Ã ,i` À>} ÃÌ>Þi` «i until 4 a.m. on weekends.

In the early 1990s, the epicenter of Cleveland’s Chinatown moved east, along with the housing opportunities. « >Vi v > y >Ã Þ i illumined strip, this new V Õ ÌÞ Ü>Ã iÃÃ `iw i`] LÕÌ >À}i Þ V w i` Ì Ì i >Ài> between St. Clair and Payne avenues, and East 30th and East 40th streets. In the heart of it all was the brand new Asia Plaza, i Ì > Õ LiÀ v ƂÃ > owned shops and restaurants.

Most notable among them was Ì i Óää Ãi>Ì 7> ] Ì i Ì À` v > ÌÀ }Þ v 7> > i` i>ÌiÀ ià that already included shops in , V Þ , ÛiÀ > ` i>V Ü `° The most notable difference between Cleveland’s new and old Chinatowns, apart from geography, was their customer L>Ãið 7 iÀi>à , V Üi was littered with chop suey and chow mein shops geared to American palates, newer ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ> Ìà i 7> > ` }] Ü V «i i` w Ûi Þi>Àà before Asia Plaza, catered to Asian immigrants. Asian grocery stores like Global Approach in Asia Plaza, later replaced by Tink Holl, catered almost exclusively to home cooks from Taiwan and mainland China, but also

those American traits, where everyone can come to this sort of salad bowl of a community and live the American dream — or at least have their shot at it.”

Where to Eat Asia Tea House

Asian Market | Photo by BurkleHagen increasingly from the Philippines, Vietnam, Thailand and Korea.

That diverse assemblage of residents is why, in 2006, the neighborhood began going by the more inclusive moniker of Asiatown, which the local

Ã> ` LiÌÌiÀ Àiy iVÌi` Ì i community.

Following years of steady growth, which has seen the «À viÀ>Ì v ƂÃ > Ü i` ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ> ÌÃ] >À iÌÃ > ` ÃiÀÛ Vi based businesses geared to immigrants, Cleveland’s Asiatown has never been richer.

V>Ìi` Ü Ì > viÜ Ã ÀÌ blocks are restaurants that serve Cantonese dim sum, Vietnamese pho, Korean bulgogi and Thai noodles. New malls have been built, anchored by grocery stores that look as though they were airlifted from the Far East.

“If you build it, they will come.” As the old saying goes, the neighborhood that was built to service and satisfy its own residents and those who look and sound like them has evolved into one that attracts diners and shoppers of all stripes.

º7i >Ài `iw Ìi Þ Ãii } > y ÕÝ v ƂÃ > Ƃ iÀ V> Ã coming into the neighborhood that we weren’t seeing before, in volumes that we didn’t see before, to eat and shop,” says Nguyen. “I think the Asian community is very happy about that.”

Events like the Cleveland Asian Festival and Night Market have attracted tens of thousands of people to the neighborhood over the past six, and two, years respectively, exposing many of them to the food, people, culture and neighborhood for Ì i ÛiÀÞ w ÀÃÌ Ì i° / >Ì ÃÕ«« ÀÌ does not go unnoticed by those who live and/or work in the area, many of whom have grown up on the sidelines of mainstream American culture. º7 Ì Ì i V Õ ÌÞ >Ì >À}i being as supportive of the Asian community as they have been, embracing our food and our culture and our presence, I think it’s great,” says Nguyen. “For people who are immigrants, especially refugees from the 6 iÌ > 7>À] Üi Ài> Þ Û> Õi

3820 Superior Ave., 216-621-1681 Tucked into the rear of Asia Foods Market, which itself is tucked into the Asian Town Center mall, is this makeshift restaurant, more accurately described as a few tables and a counter. Noodle soup lovers come here for bun bo hue, the spicy Vietnamese beef noodle soup, and shrimp wonton noodle soup, broth loaded with shrimp and pork dumplings, egg noodles, greens and scallions. ÕÌ Ì iÀi > Ã Ã > L> iÀÞ ÃÌ V i` Ü Ì }À>L > ` } LÕ Ã] both sweet and savory.

Wonton Gourmet 3211 Payne Ave., 216-875-7000, wontongourmetcleveland.com From dim sum dishes and } } ÃÌÞ i ` i à իà to golden roast duck and beef chow fun, this Asiatown staple can please a crowd. For those who tend to get lost within i }Ì Þ i ÕÃ] 7 Ì >à vÕ color photos of nearly every dish covering three of its four walls.

You can’t go wrong with the chive pot stickers, shrimp dumpling ` i à ի] Ã> Ì L> i` à À « or soy sauce chicken.

Li Wah 2999 Payne Ave., 216-696-6556, liwahrestaurant.com Ƃ } Ü Ì }] 7> is the place to go for dim sum.

7ii i `à iÀi LÕÃÌ i Ü Ì activity, with adventurous diners jostling for seats in the massive Óää Ãi>Ì ` } À ° / iÞ > are there for the bewildering spread of dim sum items, which are wheeled around the room in ÃÌ> iÃà V>ÀÌð Ì ÃÃ Ì i siu mai, har gow, sticky rice in

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Great Melting Pot, cont. section brimming with bright Asian greens.

lotus leaves, golden roast duck, chicken feet and egg custard tarts.

Asia Food Co. Siam Cafe

3820 Superior Ave., 216-621-1681 Located inside the Asian Town Center, the modern Asia Food Company looks like a typical American grocery store that has had its regular contents swapped out for Asian ones. In place of cucumbers and celery, there’s Chinese eggplant and bitter melon. In place of chicken eggs, there are duck and quail eggs. Instead of spaghetti, there’s lo mein. Hoisin sauce replaces ketchup. The potato chips have been swapped out for shrimp chips and the Hershey’s with Pocky. You get the idea.

3951 St. Clair Ave., 216-361-2323 This 22-year-old restaurant began life dispensing mainly Vietnamese and Thai food but has long since expanded into dishes originating from all over the region. While everything on the sprawling menu is good, Siam excels at seafood.

Live lobster is plucked from the tank and stir-fried in black bean sauce; salt-baked squid or shrimp is crispy, salty and delicious; glossy shrimp and scallops are laid atop a bed of pan fried noodles.

Superior Pho 3030 Superior Ave., 216-781-7462, superiorpho.com A lot has changed in the local pho scene in the 14 years since Manh Nguyen opened his noodle shop in the small Golden Plaza. But we challenge Þ Õ Ì w ` > LiÌÌiÀ L Ü v Ì i Vietnamese beef noodle soup.

But don’t stop there; Superior’s bahn mi sandwiches are, well, superior, as is the chicken cabbage salad and all the vermicelli noodle and broken rice dishes.

Seoul Hot Pot 3709 Payne Ave., 216-881-1221 When Seoul Hot Pot closed its doors in 2012 after nearly 30 years in business, fans of real Korean barbecue were crushed. While undeniably “rustic,” this small shop was the only Korean restaurant in town that featured tables with built-in grills. All again is right with the world now that Seoul reopened with a fresh look.

Come here for the kalbi and bulgogi, meats marinated in a dark, sweet, garlicky sauce that are grilled right at the table.

At lunch, folks come here for hot and bubbling bowls of kimchi soup or crocks of dolsot bibimbap.

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Park to Shop

Koko Bakery | Photo by BurkleHagen

Szechuan Gourmet 1735 East 36th St., 216-881-9688 Some like it hot, and those who do go to this authentic Szechuan restaurant at Tink Holl Market. Numbingly spicy dishes like ma po tofu, three«i««iÀ V V i ] > ` w à hot pot attract heat-seeking diners to this out-of-the-way dining room. Supplement those meals with classic dishes like cold cucumbers with chile and vinegar, garlicky sauteed greens, beefy noodle soups, and twicecooked pork. If karaoke sounds fun, call and reserve a room.

Koko Bakery 3710 Payne Ave., 216-881-7600 Koko is a full-service Asian bakery, where the glass display coolers are brimming with colorful fruit-topped cakes, tarts and pies. But what brings people in on their way to work are the doughnut-style cases w i` Ü Ì }À>L > ` } LÕ Ã° - vÌ] Ã>Û ÀÞ LÕ Ã >Ài w i` Ü Ì

barbecued pork, curried beef, even hotdogs. Sweet buns are w i` Ü Ì Ì>À ] Ài` Li> «>ÃÌi and coconut. A small lunch menu brings folks in throughout the day, as do sweet beverages like smoothies, bubble tea and Taiwanese shaved ice.

Where to Shop Tink Holl 1735 East 36th St., 216-881-6996 A decade back, this popular Asian grocery moved from its original home in Asia Plaza to this brick complex, which also houses Szechuan Gourmet. The expansive grocery is one of the best resources in town for home cooks, thanks to an unbeatable selection of fresh and dried noodles, frozen dim sum items, and staples like soy, Sriracha and coconut milk. Tink also has fresh seafood, golden roast ducks and chickens, which are hacked to order, and a wonderful produce

1580 East 30th St., 216-781-3388, parktoshopmarket.com Part of a small regional chain of Asian markets, Park to Shop is one of Asiatown’s newer grocery stores. And yes, there is plenty of parking. Like Asia Food Co., this market is bright, modern and stocked with ingredients a shopper is Ì i Þ Ì w ` >Ì Ì i À vÀ i ` Þ neighborhood Dave’s. There’s a «À `ÕVi ÃiVÌ ] i>Ì > ` w à department, and even some delicious prepared foods. All that is in addition to aisle upon aisle of canned, bottled and packaged items.

Good Harvest Food Market 3038 Payne Ave., 216-861-8018 Small, cramped, chaotic and exotic as heck, this market features narrow aisles between Ì> à i Ûià ÛiÀy Ü } Ü Ì strange and fascinating ingredients. This place happens to be a great source for live lobster and in-season crab, but also for cooking utensils like woks, cleavers, bulk chopsticks and strainers.

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Demystifying Dim Sum A beginner’s guide to your new favorite meal

By Douglas Trattner

I

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Dessert Ûi ` ÃÕ }iÌà `iÃÃiÀÌ° 9 Õ½ Li vviÀi` >` À>L i ÌÌ i « ià w i` Ü Ì ÃÜiiÌ > ` VÀi> Þ i}} VÕÃÌ>À`] ÃiÃ> i Ãii` V >Ìi` vÀ i` ` Õ} L> à w i` ÃÜiiÌ Ài` Li> «>ÃÌi] À L Ü Ã v ÃÜiiÌi i` Ì vÕ «Õ`` } Ì ««i` Ü Ì } }iÀ ÃÞÀÕ«°

DIM SUM 101 Go early. ÃÕ Ã w ÀÃÌ V i] w ÀÃÌ ÃiÀÛi` > ` v à ÃÌ>ÀÌ w } i>À Þ Üii i `ð iÌ Ì iÀi ÕV «>ÃÌ ££ >° ° > ` Þ Õ } Ì w ` Þ ÕÀÃi v > i° Bring friends. > Þ v Ì i Ì>L ià >Ài >À}i i Õ} Ì >VV `>Ìi i } Ì À £ä }ÕiÃÌð Ƃ ` Ì i Ài vÀ i `Ã Þ Õ >Ûi] Ì i Ài ` à iÃ Þ Õ V> Ã> « i° See something, say something. 7 i Þ Õ Ã« Ì > Ìi Ì >Ì Ã ÌiÀiÃÌ }] >Ã Ì i V>ÀÌ «iÀÃ Ì Ã Ü Ì Ì Þ Õ° v Ì Ã } `] >à v À Ì° v Ì] à « Þ Ã>Þ Ì > Þ Õ° Order what you want. v Þ Õ ` ½Ì Ãii à iÌ } Þ Õ Ü> Ì] ÕÃÌ >à v À Ì > ` à i i Ü LÀ } Ì >À Õ `° iÜ Ãi] vii vÀii Ì À`iÀ Ìi à vv Ì i Ài}Õ >À i Õ° Drink tea. ÃÕ Ã >à ÕV >L ÕÌ Ã «« } Ìi> > ` V>ÌV } Õ« Ü Ì vÀ i `à >Ã Ì Ã i>Ì }° 7 i Þ ÕÀ Ìi>« Ì ÀÕ Ã `ÀÞ] à « Þ y « Ì i ` «i Ì Ì vÞ Þ ÕÀ ÃiÀÛiÀ Ì Ài« >Vi Ì° Settle up. Ƃà Ìi à >Ài À`iÀi`] ÃiÀÛiÀà > i ÌiÃ Þ ÕÀ Ì>L i½Ã Ì>L >Ã Ì iÞ } ° 7 i Þ Õ½Ûi >` i Õ} ] >Ã Ì i ÃiÀÛiÀ Ì Ì> Þ Ì i Ì Ì> v À «>Þ i Ì° Three to try\ 7> ] }] «iÀ À½Ã *> >Vi°

Li Wah | Photo by BurkleHagen

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w e N

Sushi Menu Come check out our

New...

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FLAV R SCENE MAGAZINE

Proper Pig | Photo by BurkleHagen

2

Smoke Rising

Cleveland’s long love affair with barbeque continues with a new bent for a new era

By Douglas Trattner

016 will always go down as the year that the Cavs won the NBA Championship, the Tribe made it to Game 7 of the World Series, and great barbecue descended upon the masses like manna from heaven. In no previous year did more authentic barbecue joints set up shop in the 216 than the one about to expire. Every month, it seemed, another practitioner of the craft would hang out a hickory shingle revealing a new broker of slow-cooked meats, not that the plume of fragrant wood smoke doesn’t serve as a beacon all its own.

While it might look like Cleveland is at the epicenter of a smoking-hot trend thanks to the arrival of Mabel’s BBQ, Proper Pig, Woodstock, Barabicu and others that recently entered the game, the truth of the matter is that barbecue is one of the hottest food trends in the nation right now and has been for the better part of a decade. As is the case with many food-based crazes, it’s just taken its good, sweet time getting here.

All this talk about the sudden rise in barbecue joints naturally gives rise to the question of Cleveland’s barbecue past. It’s not like folks in these here parts have gone without since the dawn of time.

In fact, thanks to folks like Virgil Whitmore, Eugene “Hot Sauce” 7 > Ã] > ` > à >` ÜÞ LÕÌ y Õi Ì > > > i` >V }] locals have been enjoying barbecue ribs, shoulders and trotters (pigs’ feet) since the 1930s. £ Î{] 7 > à «> ` } f£ää v À i v à v> } L>ÀLiVÕi

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GOOD THINGS…

COME IN SMALL PACKAGES

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2ND LEVEL LOUNGE EVERY WEDNESDAY IS

LADIESS NIGHT! I

HALF OFF SELECT SUSHI & MARTINIS (LADIES ONLY)

EVERY THURSDAY NIGHT!

OPEN MIC BATTLE OF THE COMICS 6-10PM

27 7 SCENE SCEEN SC NE | FL FLAVOR F LAV AVOR VOR OR 2

SCE NE MAG AZI NE

Smok Sm oke ok e Ri R sing g, cont. sho s, event shop n ually turning it in into nto a small chain in off eate te eri rie ess..

Williams Wi ms,, wh ho earned the he n cckkna ni ame m “Kiing n of Barb rbec be ue u ,” ,” did di d so wel e l that att he bo oug ught ht a 63 63-a - cre e fa farm rm in Solon and d v> v> ÕÃ Õ Þ w à i i` i ` > i À i whilie seated in th wh the e fron ont n seat se ea of h s ch hi c au auffeured Ca Cadi dilllllacc. di W itm Wh more, who wa as bo orn in £ £ äÇ ä

> }iÀw i `] /i /iÝ> /i Ý>Ã] Ã > Ã Ã]

ma ade a name for himse elf by smok sm o in ok ing ri r bs.

Va ariiou o s Whitmore and d Hott Sauc Sa uce uc e Willllia iams barbecu ue sp potts p pp po pped ed up p all over tow wn — a an nd e en out ev u of town — some ome att om the th e ha hands of family me memb berss a d ot an othe h rs r not. At alll of th hem e , the e bill bill of fa fare wass built aro oun un d pork po rk rib ibss an and d bu butt tts, tt s which wer ee cook oked ed slo lowl wlyy over hot coals wl an and nd co coated d in a proprietaryy sa auc u e base ed on “secret” reciipe es. Hot ot Sauce’s version n— lilike ke e mos ost of the day, a ketchu hup, p, vine vi ne ega garr an nd molasses-based ed conc co nccoc octi t on n — was said to have ha v been ve n handed down fo or gene gene n ra ration ons, originating ma an ny yearrs priorr in the Deep So ye out uth. h.

Aro Arou Ar ound nd the same time an nd in the e years since, but oper op e at a in ng from a completel ely d ffer di fffe ent fr frame of referrence ce, were pop we opular places like the e Tick Tocck Tavern in Lakewood, Ti Harveyy’s at Cedar Centerr, Ha Mimi Mi mi’ss in Me Ment ntor or, r Gepp pp pet ett t to’s

28 2 8 SCENE SCEEN SC NE | FLAVOR FLAV FL AVO OR R

on the o he west side d and Flo & Eddi d e’ e s on the easst side. As was th wa the fashion of the da ay, th the e ribss all were steamed, d, baked or boi or o led before landing on the h (likely gas) grill. Th he no onc n onve entional practice e a complishes a number of ac th hings, not all of them go ood. It eliminates a large portion n of the e fa at, t itt greatly reduces grilling time e, and it tenderize z s the e meat..

A l you lose in the process is Al iÛiÀÞ >ÃÌ Õ Vi v y >Û À°° iÛ C evveland’s barbecue Cl fo ore r fa f thers knew this and tod to day’ y s riising stars of barbecue y’ u know kn ow thi h s, but for some re eason th he kn know owle l dg ge seemed to have pas ha asse sed ovver an entirre g nera ge r tion n of restaurant ccookss.

1 ` 1 ` ÕLÌi Ì ` Þ] Þ] Ì i `iw V ÌÃà tech te echni niqu q e an and d qu q ality can n be b am bl amed ed e d on timi m ng mi ng, locatio on a d eq an equi uipm pment. Almost a all of o r barb ou rb bec e ue e leg e en e ds we ere operatin op ng in an n era a an a d in n n ighborrho ne hoods wh w er ere e it w was p rfectly accce pe cept p ab a le to cook >Ì ÕÌ` À i à ÛiÀ ÛÛi w À wÀi v À hours on end d. Tr Tryy do d in ng tthat to oday on Clifton on Bouleva Bou uleva arrd and se ee how long itt ta ake kess for tth he he ealth departmen en nt to o arr rriivve e..

Ad dvances in smok oker e tec echn nol o og ogy have given pitmast ha sters th he ab bililit ityy to bring the e artt and nd cra aftt of reall ba barb rbec ecue ue to th he he hearr t of urban n centter e s. s

It’s It ’ss nott tha hat our blessed to own ha as be been en entir nttirel elyy bere eft f of go ood ba arb rbec ecue ec ue e, wi with t pla th ace cess he ere an nd d gone go ne likke Fa F t Ca asu s al a , Fr Fred ed ddi die’ e’’s S ut So u he errn n Sty tyle le Rib b House se e, Bllaz a in in’’ B lls,, Oakk and Emb Bi mber ers, Rib b Cag age, age e, and Bu ubb ba a’’ss-Q Qa alll co comiing ng to mind mi nd.. Itt’ss jus ustt th hat co om mpa p re red to t th he tr t ic ickkl kle th that at has a tak a e en n pla ace e in th he pa past stt, to oda ay’s y’s em y’ emba mba b rr rras assm sm men nt of ric iche h s fe he eel els a bi b t lil ke k a wa w ate terf rfal all.l. But al u it issn’ n’tt si simp mply th he e q an qu a ti t tyy of ba barb rbec rb ecue ec ue e re esstau ta aur uran nts ts t at th a we’ e re so exci exxci c te ted ab bou out, t, it’ t, ts th he qu ua allit lit ityy of the he pro odu uct c thi his ne ew ge g ne nera rati tion ti o of p piitm tmas aste ters rss is p tt pu ttin in ng ou o t. t So,, wh So w att exa x ct ctly lyy is so o diiffer d fffer eren ren ent? nt? t? For o sta tart arter ers, ss,, itt’’s th the me eat at. To Toda day’ da y s cch y’ hef efss h ha avve e acc cces ess to o bet ette te er qu q al alit ity, y, oft f ten en n passtu t re eraissed ra d her erit ittag age eb brreed ee ed po orkk, be beef ef ef and an d po poul pou ultr ultr tryy. The hese se varie se arie ar ieti tie es hav a e high hi igh g er e perce erce cent n ages nt ag ges of fa fat at th t an thei th eirr co ei convven conv enti tion onal cou on ount nter e pa part rtts, ma m aki kin ng the ng em ide id dea eallly su eall suit ited it ited for th fo the e lo low w an nd sl s ow smo moki king king ki n prroc o es ess. s. Goo s. ood d ch chef effs als allso so kno ow that th at the e bes e t wa w y to to sho how of offf grea gr eatt pr ea prod prod oducct iss to se eas ason it mini mi ini n ma m lllly, y coo ookk itt rig ight ght h , an and d g t ou ge outt o off the wayy. IIn n barrbe ecu cue, that th hat tra ans nslate nsla la ates te es in into to o a dim imin i ishe in isshe hed d fo ocu cuss on on elabo la ab bo ora r te te rub ubss an nd sa aucce ess. As As the h pro os th thes hese esse da days ys say, sa y “Iff the hey’ hey’ y re re tal alki alki k ng abo b u utt th he e sauc sa u e,, you ou’r ’re e doin do oin ing g it wro rong ng g.” ” / Õ Õ} } Ì > Ã À À Ì ÌÃ Ì Ã wÀ w À Þ Þ plan pl ante te ed in i Tex exas ass, th the e ba barb rb bec e ue e that th a Miccha at hael el Sym mon on is pr prep pa arrin ing g at Mab abe el’ss ha el ass a dis istti tin ncctl tly tly Nort No rthe rt heas he ast as st Oh O io i perrsp spec eccti e ctiive ve.

Hiis “C Cle eve vella and d-s -sty tyyle e” ap appr prroach oacch oa h e pl em ploy o s in indi dige di g n ge no ouss app ple and nd ch cher her erry woo ods ds in the the sm smok okke err in n pla ace e of oak oa ak or or hic icko ko ory r y. He ry. rep re pllaces aces es the e typic yp pical Texas exxas a styl st y e ho yl hott lin lilink nks fo f r lo loca calllll y ma ca made d kiel ki ellbasa basa. He He swa w ps ps out the e yellow yell ye ow w mus usta ta ard in a Ca Caro rolilil na ro na-s yl st y e ssa auc auce e wi w th h Ber ertm r tman tm man Ba B alll pa park Mus usta ard r , a co ond diim me en nt arround ou und d sin ince ce Virrgi ce g l Wh Whitmo Whit ittmo ore re’ss day. da y Cornb nbread ad d and mac acar arroni oni on and chee an esse e? Th That’s at’ss Sou at outh th herrn, n, he sa ayyss, in inst s ea ead d of of fe offe eri ring ng Eas aste te ern Eu uro r pe p an n-r - oo oote te ed si sides des lilike de k ke s ae sp etz t le e and d cab abba ba age ge..

“T The coo oole le est s thing ng tha at I’ I’ve ve e seen se een en mor o e th han n any nyth t in th ing g is is thatt alll the th h se s guyys ha have v the ve heir ow wn d diist stinct styyle e,” Symon ym mon o told to ld d Sc Scen ene en e. “IIt al alll fa f llllss wi w th hin i a p rttic pa icul ullarr reg e io i n, n, butt the ey all alll k nd ki d of ma ake e it th hei eir ow eir own. n. Tha at’ t’s

realllyy rei einf einf n orrce c d fo forr m me e tha hatt I wa ant n to w wo orkk hard d to o makke the ba arb r eccue u at Ma M bel’ be el’l’s ’s ve very Clevel ellan ndd cce en nttri ric. c.” ” M be Ma el’’s iss a ful ulll-se servve, se serv e, sittdo down ow wn n eate ater er y where e allon ong wi w th t high gh hba ballss of Ken entu tuckky bo tu bour urb rbo bon, n, g ests en gu njoy mea njoy nj eaty ty por ty ork ri rib bs, bs, bs even meati ev ttiier er bee e f ri ribs bs, s, su ucccu ullen ent b issket br ke et and d ju juiccy sm smok mokked d tu urrke k y. y.

For th Fo thos ose o os off us wh ho gr gre ew w up thin th in nki king ng tha ng at ri r bs sho houl uld be ul e fallllin fa i g-of in offof f-th fth hee-bo bo one e ten ende de d er,, er, -ÞÞ ½Ã à w À À LÕÌÌ Þ i i ` ` ` ` } ë «>À >Ài i rriibs bs will fo oreve v r re em me edy edy d tha hatt misc mi scon nce c pt ptio ion. io n Sh S han a e Vi Vido dovi vicc an vi and d Te Ted ed Du upa p ski skki la laun unch un nch he ed d Pro rope perr Pi pe Pg Smok Sm okeh ok e ou o se e in La akke e ewo w od wo d the he very ve ry sam ame we ame w ek tha hatt Mabe Mabe Ma bel’ll’’s op pen ened ed, bu but th he pa air ha ad d bee een ru unn nnin in ng a p po opu p la larr food ffo oo od d truc ru ucckk off th he e sam ame na ame e for o tw wo o ye ear ars le ead a in ng up up to itt. P Prro ovvin ng S mo Sy m n’ nsp po oin nt th hatt “ev eve err yb bod ody make ma kess itt the ke h irr own n,” Pro rope pe p er Pig Pig Pi is a com is o pl p et etel e y di el diff ffferen erren ent ssttyl ye of ope pera ati tion tion on,, w wh herre gu uessttss queu qu eu ue up p at th he cco ou oun un nte er be befo efo ore re grrabbi grab ab bbi bing ng g se ea ats ts in the the co th olo lorf r fu ull, ca asu s all din inin ing in ng ro oom o . Like Like Li e man ny of the of h gre eat at spo p ts ts dow wn So Sout uttth u h orr out Wes est, t, th t, hiis one one is on is lar arge ge g ely ly cco ommun mmun mm nal al.. Te Texasxa ass st styylle br bris iisske ket,, St Lo St St. oui usp po orrkk rib bs, s, hea ave enl nly pulllllled pu ed por ork an and h ho ot lilink link n ssa au ussages agess burrst ag stin ing wi with juiici cin ne ess ss have have ha e been ee en sse ellllin ing ou in o t siincce op pen enin ing in ng da day.

No ot fa ar aw awayy, W od Wo odst stoc st occk ow wne er Ro Robe bert be rt T gl To glia iatt ia ttti tr tran ansffor orme med th me he di d ve e ba bar ar Trrio o’ss in La Lake kewo ke wood wo od int nto nto a br brig ght ht,, op o en and fes esti t vve ti e n ig ne ghb hbor orho ood od saloo loo on th that at spec sp ecia ia iali aliize z s in in bar arbe be ecu cue frrom vva ariio ou us po poin ntss on th he m ma ap. p.

Memp Me emp m h hiis, iss,, Nas ashv ashv hviliillle, le, Ka Kans nsa as as Cityy, A Ci Au ussttin i … anyyp pllac ace w wiith ith a go g od d smo moke ke ed d--meat meatt cul me ultu ture e i rep is e re esent sentted se d thr hrou ugh h men enu u ittems liike briisk s et et, pu pulllll ed e por ork, k tu urk rkey e , ri ey rib b tiips p , ssa aus usage age a ag an nd sm smok mok o ed chi h ckken n win ings gs. gs gs.

J n Assh Jo httton on n and d Da Dann anny nn ny Ca C ssan sssan no parl pa rlay ayed ed a spot sp ot on th he Ge Gr ea at Fo F ood d

Trucck Tr R ce Ra ce intto B ra Ba r bicu, cu u, a sm ma alllll,l, la arg gel elyy take ta ake e-o ou utt ba b arbec rb bec ecue e sp po ot in in Pa arrm ma a.

The Th e in nsp pirra attio on fo for m ma an nyy of th he it item em ms sse erv r ved ed th he erre e co om mess d rect di re ect c tlyy fro rom m th t e cciiti tie ess the he } ÞÞÃà ÌÌ Ü }Õ i i w } } Ì > >ÌÌ Food Fo oo od d Net e work wo orkk sho ow. w. Piitt stto ops ps in n Aus usti tn ti n,, Oklah ahom om ma C Ciity t y and nd Stt. Lo Lo u uiis be ego got me meat at y ba b ab baby byy bacck ba ck rib ibs wi w th t a sti tiick ckk yy--sw ckyswe ee et sa auc uce, uce, e, Tex exas xass-sstyle tyyle e be ee ef br bris iskke et wiith w th burrntt end n s, s, Sou outh her er n n--sstt yl y le pullllled pu d porrk an and wh whol ole le sm s mo okked ed, je erkk-ssttyyle e chi hick cckken cken ens. s And th An And hes ese e ar a e ju just sstt the e tip p of the of he ice cebe erg g. As As we u usshe er in n 2017, 2017 20 17, ba 17 barb be eccue e fan a ns w wiill illl get et to jju udg dge th the ba barb r be rbec eccu ue e off f fer fe errin ing gss at p acces pl es lik ike R Riib St Sticcks ks, s, w wh her ere e tth he ow wne ner ad dds d th he e unc ncon o ve vent n io ona nal ssttep ep of so ouss vid de be b fo fore e ssm mo okkin ng an and d gr grilillilin ng itte ng ems ms lil ke e bee eef sh s orr t rriibs bs, beef be eef ef bri risk s et sk et, pu p ulllled e por ork rk and sp spar are e ri ribs bs. In In >Þw > ÞÞw wi ` `] ÛÛ> > ½Ã ½Ãà , ÃÃÌ

À> À> Ì Ìi Ì i owner Ca ow Carll Quagl glia iata t a an nd d his chef ch ef Zaccha haryy Lad a ne er wi willll ope p en the Te th Texxa as--stt yl yle Sm Smok okin kiin n’ Q in n the th e lo on ng gti t me me hom o me o off Fis i he er’ r’s T ve Ta vern rrn n, w wh hiille down dow do wn n in Tw win inssb sbur urg, g, Mar arcc a an nd Grret G e cch hen en Ga arrof ofo oli w ol wiillll open op en the e secon econ ec nd outp ou tpos osst of the eir popu pop po pula larr Oa Oakk & Embe Em mb be ers in tth he lo ongti ng gti t me hom ome me off Mar a cce elita liitta a’s ’s Me exi xicca xica an rre est stau a ra au ant nt..

C ev Cl eve ellan and ba arb bec ecue ue ue ha as co ome me a lon o gw wa ay fr from m tth ho osse ea arl r y, y, for o ma ati tive e da ayys, s wh hen n alll a guyy nee e de d d we ere e s me me so ea aty t y po orrk ri r ib bss, a 55-g 55 -gal allo al l n dr lo d um m, an and d a to topp se ecr cret et sau auce c rec ce e ipe. ip pe e..

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A Family Tradition For Over 60 Years

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2266 Warrensville Center Road University Heights, Ohio 44118

s www.facebook.com/geracispizzeria martispoth@geracisrestaurant.com

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FLAV R S C E N E MAG A Z I N E

Southern Comfort From east to west, Cleveland diners can find a taste of the South.

That hasn’t always been the case

By Douglas Trattner

B

elieve it or not, at one point in time fried chicken and Ü>vyià Ü>à >à iÝ Ì V > ` Ã

iÛi > ` >Ã Ì iÞ V> i° Þ wÀÃÌ iÝ«iÀ i Vi Ü Ì Ì i Ü ÕL µÕ Ì Õà V v ÀÌ v ` Ì « >Vi Óää£ Ì i L>Ãi i Ì v Ì i Û V >Þwi `] Ü iÀi > Þ Õ } i ÌÀi«Ài iÕÀ Ü Üi Ì LÞ Ì i > i * Ì i Ài ÃÌi` Üii Þ Ã Õ v ` LÀÕ V LÕvviÌð , } Ì > }à `i Ì i >V>À > ` V iiÃi] V i``>À V iiÃi }À ÌÃ] V À LÀi>`] vÀ i` V>Ìwà > ` ÃÜiiÌ « Ì>Ì «iV> « i Ü>Ã Ì >Ì `i iVÌ>L i «> À }

v ÃÌ] ÃÜiiÌ Ü>vyià > ` VÀ Ã«Þ vÀ i` V V i ° 7i½Ûi V i > } Ü>Þ Ã Vi Ì Ãi i>À Þ `>ÞÃ] Ü i ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ> Ìà i * Ì i Ài] > ViÀ½Ã -Ìi> ÕÃi]

iÃÌiÀ½Ã L i] > ` Ƃ } i½Ã - Õ >vi ÜiÀi «ÀiÌÌÞ ÕV Ì i Þ }> iÃ Ì Ü Ü i Ì V> i Ì - ÕÌ iÀ > ` Ã Õ v ` ÃÌÞ i ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ> Ìð Ì Þ >Ã Ì i VÕ Ã i iÝ«> `i` Ì iÜ }i }À>« V> ÌiÀÀ Ì À iÃ] iÝÌi ` } ÜiÃÌÜ>À` vÀ Ìà ÃÌ À V> Þ i>ÃÌà `i >L Ì>Ì] LÕÌ Ì i v ` ÌÃi v >à ÕÌ>Ìi`°

`iÀ «À>VÌ Ì iÀà v Ì i ÌÀ>`i >Ài « V } Õ« Ì i Ì ÀV v Ì i À v ÀiLi>ÀiÀÃ] ÌÜi> } Ì] > ` iÝV Ì } > Ü i iÜ }i iÀ>Ì v V v ÀÌ v ` v> ð *iÀ >«Ã Ì i L }}iÃÌ «Õà v ÀÜ>À` V> i >L ÕÌ wÛi Þi>Àà >} ] Ü i Ƃ } i½Ã - Õ >vi Ü iÀ Ƃ Ƃ >w >Õ V i` <> â L>À - > iÀ -µÕ>Ài] -Ì iÌ Ü *À ëiVÌ > ` iâiLi ½Ã >ÀV iÀi ­ Ü V Ãi`® > Ü Ì > viÜ Þi>Àà v i > Ì iÀ° >V ] ÌÃ Ü Õ µÕi Ü>Þ] LÕ Ì Õ« > `

iÝ«> `i` Ì i Ƃ } i½Ã Ã Õ v ` LÀ> ` > ` i Õ° ƂÀ Õ ` Ì i Ã> i Ì i] > Þ Õ } V iv > i` > à Li}> ÌÀ `ÕV } V ÌÞ `Üi iÀÃ Ì Ã Ì> i º iÜ - ÕÌ iÀ » V } Ü Ì Ì i >Õ V v - " ÌÞ° Ì Ü>Ã Ì iÀi Ì >Ì > Þ iÛi > ` ` iÀà >` Ì i À wÀÃÌ ÀiÛi >Ì ÀÞ Ì>ÃÌià v « i Ì V iiÃi] à À « > ` }À ÌÃ] V>Ìwà « ½ L Þà > `] ÞiÃ] vÀ i` V V i > ` Ü>vyið Ƃ Ì iÀ }Ài>Ì iÝ> « i v > Þ Õ } V iv Ì> } > V >Ãà V VÕ >ÀÞ ÌÀ>` Ì > `

ChowChow Kitchen | Photo by BurkleHagen

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BREAKFAST | LUNCH | DINNER WEEKEND BRUNCH PRIVATE PARTIES | CATERING

Angie’s Soul Cafe Photo from Scene Archives

Southern Comfort, cont.

2621 W. 14TH STREET CLEVELAND OH 44113

216-241-5025 grumpys-cafe.com

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bringing it into the present day is Joseph Zegarac, whose 1-year-old Lakewood spot Chow Chow Kitchen is adored for its tasty vittles and no-frills vibe. Zegarac combines under one roof some of his favorite Southern comfort food dishes, including the red-hot Nashville hot chicken as well as staples like ham and bean soup, deviled eggs, macaroni and cheese, Õà «Õ«« ià > ` vÀ i` V>Ìwà ° He’s also pushing the envelope with contemporary creations like deep-fried cheese curds with gravy and, er, tofu-stuffed po’ boys.

Also last year, Tony Fortner, the longtime chef for the Angie’s restaurant group, struck out on his own for the wÀÃÌ Ì i ÌÜ `iV>`iÃ Ü Ì the opening of Southern Cafe.

This sweet little Lakewood dining room serves up many of the dishes that Fortner made popular at places like Angie’s, Zanzibar and Jezebel’s in a casual, informal setting. Soul v ` V >ÃÃ VÃ i V >À`Ã w i` soul rolls, fried green tomatoes, shrimp and creamy grits, crispy vÀ i` V V i > ` Ü>vyiÃ] Salisbury steak, and sauteed pork chops smothered in brown gravy and onions seem custom built for long Cleveland winters.

Back across town in Cleveland Heights, chef Eric Rogers was doing so well with his Southernstyled sandwich shop Black

Box Fix that he upgraded and enlarged his digs by taking over the old Joey’s Bistro spot down the block. The brandnew eatery, now called simply the Fix, combines popular sandwiches like the OMG Philly with grilled chicken, Creole shrimp and mushrooms with new items like andouille-stuffed soul rolls, buttermilk fried chicken, and grilled salmon served atop spicy jambalaya.

Come this winter, downtown Cleveland will become home to another Southern-themed restaurant, this one originating a few hours west of the city.

When Chicago’s Home of

V i > ` 7>vyià «i à Prospect Avenue, in the former home of the Rathskeller tavern, Ì Ü Li Ì i wÀÃÌ V>Ì outside the Windy City, where there are currently two locations (down from three). Owner Tonya Johnson opened her wÀÃÌ ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ> Ì Óään Ì i southside of town, following that up with a second spot two years later in the Oak Park neighborhood. Diners can look forward to not only the classic vÀ i` V V i > ` Ü>vyià ` à ] but also a version topped with fried chicken livers, gravy and onions. Southern-style dinners i vÀ i` V>Ìwà > ` -> ÃLÕÀÞ steak all come with cornbread and a choice of sides like mac & cheese, yams, collard greens and Cajun red beans and rice.

For dessert, there’s peach cobbler and sweet potato pie.

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New York Style Just like the city of its birth, New York-style pizza is big, À Õ ` > ` y >Ì ­ÌÀÕÃÌ ÕÃ Ì >Ì®° The thin crust should be supple enough to fold in half, while retaining a slight crispness and strong chew. Done poorly, these pies have all the charm of the cardboard box they come in. Bright, slightly sweet tomato sauce is capped with heaps v ââ>Ài > V iiÃi] viÜ ­ À ® Ì «« }Ã] > ` L> i` deck ovens. We love the slices ­ iÛiÀ « iViî ` à i` Õ« >Ì Valentino’s, Marotta’s, Crust, Edison’s and Capri.

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California Style

Slices of Heaven There’s never been a better time to find a slice of any style of pizza in Northeast Ohio

By Douglas Trattner

A

s is the case with sports teams, everybody has his or her favorite style of pizza.

And just like with sports teams, those allegiances almost always originate at home. The regional pizza styles we grow up with often leave a lasting impression.

The good news is that it has never been easier to chase down the pie of one’s dreams À w ` > iÜ Ã Vi° / i « ââ> renaissance in Cleveland is in full swing with options all over Northeast Ohio popping up in recent months and years, giving diners slices from around the country and world.

Chicago Style Deep Dish Even though Jon Stewart griped, and you might agree, “This is not pizza! This is tomato soup in a bread bowl!” many «i « i Ûi Ì Ã i>ÀÌÞ] w }

Citizen Pie | Photo courtesy of Citizen Pie version of a pizza-like thing.

Characterized by its tall sides and inverted tomato sauce and cheese strata, this knife-andfork pizza casserole is the polar opposite of today’s thin-crust obsession. Despite the Windy City’s proximity to Cleveland, there are scant few true representations of the style.

Give Danny Boys’ or Antonio’s versions a whirl to see what all of the fuss is about.

Neapolitan No pizza category has expanded with more gusto of late than authentic Neapolitan style. Most disciples of this movement strictly adhere to the tenets of the crusade, which mandate that the pies Li >`i Þ Ü Ì Ã«iV w V y ÕÀ] Ì >Ì ià > ` V iiÃi > ` L> i` > Ü ` w Ài` Ûi ° Diners have come to expect thin-crusted, 10- to 12-inch pies

sparingly topped and sporting puffy, blistered rims. Find textbook examples at Vero, Citizen Pie, In Forno and Biga.

Imagine if chef Wolfgang Puck made pizzas ... . Oh wait, he did, decades ago at Spago, thus setting in motion the haute cuisine pizza craze. Think thin, almost cracker-esque crusts topped with fresh, seasonal, chefdriven ingredients and you start to get the picture. Bar Cento’s Sunnyside pizza with prosciutto, farm eggs and cracked black pepper immediately comes to mind, as does Flour’s wild mushroom, } >Ì V iiÃi] Ì Þ i > ` ÌÀÕvy i rig. Other great interpretations on the style can be found at Humble Wine Bar, Cha Spirits and Pizza Kitchen, Tomori’s, 3 Palms, Dante Next Door, and Wood and Wine.

Sicilian & Detroit Style Massacred by school cafeterias everywhere, Sicilian pizza in its most common form takes the shape of the rectangular pans in which they are baked. But there’s more to this satisfyingly doughy pie than its thick crust and square slices. The best sport an airy focaccia-like dough that takes on a crusty, shiny shell where it meets the edges of the sheet pan. There is a thick mantel of edge-to-edge cheese and, in the case of Detroit style, that cheese resides under the tomato sauce. One of the best à Vià Ü>à LÀ iy Þ >Û> >L i >Ì Ì i short-lived Arcadian, but you can still grab a square or two at Vincenza’s and Antonio’s.

Cleveland Style?

Admit it. Pizzas baked up at beloved local institutions like Angelo’s, Geraci’s, Mama Santa’s and Master Pizza don’t comfortably fall into any of the above categories. These round pies are thicker than all but deep dish or Sicilian. The crisp-bottomed crust is rich and buttery — almost oily. The tomato sauce leans to thick and sweet, and it’s ladled on with reckless abandon. Toppings are numerous and traditional, with pepperoni, mushrooms ­V> i`®] Ã>ÕÃ>}i ­«i iÌî and onions leading the pack.

We also love Compola’s Tasty Pizza, Dina’s Pizza, Pizza 216 and Sainatos.

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Dinner Menu Available Nightly -ONDAY &RIDAY s PM 3ATURDAY 3UNDAY s .OON PM

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Banter | Photo by BurkleHagen

Polish Boy 101

ÕÌ Ì > Ã Ì > vÀià Ü>Ûi v Ã>ÕÃ>}i Û } V ivà > ` ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ> Ì Ü iÀÃ] Üi >Ài Ãii } > L > w `i ÀiÃÕÀ}i Vi p > ` «À Ûi i Ì p v Ì i }ÕÌ LÕÃÌ }] à ÀÌ ÃÌ> } * à ް ƂÌ iÜ « >Vià i >Li ½Ã +] > ÌiÀ > ` * V V] ` iÀà V> Ã Ì L>V > ` Ài >Ý Ü Ì `i } ÌvÕ ] `i V Õà ÛiÀà à v Ì i LÕ i` Ü `iÀ° Ûi Ì >Ì Ì i Ã> `Ü V `à ÃÕV > iÃÌii i` « >Vi ÕÀ }>ÃÌÀ V ÃÌ ÀÞ] i Ü Õ ` Ì V> L>ÀLiVÕi V > à i iÝ«iVÌ Ài> à v ` VÕ i Ì>Ì 7 Ì Ài½Ã > ` Ì ->ÕVi Ìà À } > ` `iÛi « i Ì° 7 > Ã] Ì iÃi ÌÜ w ÃÌi` Li Þ ÕÌ Ì iÀi >à ½Ì Lii > Ì L Là Ãii i` Ì Li >ÌÌÀ>VÌ } ÜÀ ÌÌi >L ÕÌ Ì i ÃÌ ÀÞ v Ài >ÌÌi Ì Ì Ã Ãi > vÀ ÕÌà `i Ã> `Ü V ] ÕÀ Ài} Ì > Despite the fact that the Ü V à `` vÀ Ü Ì ° } Ûi ÕÀ V >i -Þ Polish Boy supposedly is v>ÃV >Ì }Õà i` >L ÕÌ “Cleveland’s Signature Ü Ì > Ì }Ã Ì i Ì i v ` Ì Ã V ÌÞ° ` iÌÜ À ] Sandwich,” there hasn’t i«i ` } Ƃ Ì Þ exactly been a bumper Ü Þ Õ >à i` ÕÀ`> > ` Ü i Þ Õ crop of places at which to >à i` Ì i ] >``ÀiÃÃi` Ì i No order and enjoy them. the term º* à ޻ ,iÃiÀÛ>Ì Ã] } Ì >Ûi Ƃ`> , V > ÀiviÀÀi` Ì i « Õ `i` v v ÕÀ ` vviÀi Ì Ì }Ã\ > Þ Õ } i > Ûð `] ÃµÕ Ài > i vÀ * > `] > * à ÃÌÞ i >}>â i V Õ`i` Ì > ÃÌ Ã>ÕÃ>}i] > * à ÃÌÞ i Ã>ÕÃ>}i v Ƃ iÀ V>½Ã LiÃÌ Ã> `Ü V iÃ] > LÕ ] > ` Ì i Ü v> Õà > ` -iÀ Õà >Ìà ÃiÀ ÕÃ Þ Ã> `Ü V v Ì i Ã> i > i° V à `iÀi` Ì°

A short history of Cleveland’s seminal sandwich and the new wave of places serving it up

By Douglas Trattner

C

hances are good that the w ÀÃÌ * Ã Þ Þ Õ iÛiÀ >Ìi V> i V ÕÀÌiÃÞ v -iÌ >ÀÌ iâ] Ü Ã«i Ì Ì i «>ÃÌ `iV>`i «>À i` ÕÌ vÀ Ì v i> -Õ«« Þ] Ì i ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ> Ì iµÕ « i Ì Ü>Ài ÕÃi 7 ` > `° à v> >À Ü Ìi L Ý ÌÀÕV ] Ü Ài` Ü iÀiÛiÀ Ì i ` ÃÌÀ ià ] >à à ` Ài v

iÛi > `½Ã à } >ÌÕÀi Ã> `Ü V ià ÛiÀ Ì i «>ÃÌ £ä Þi>ÀÃ Ì > i Þ > Ì iÀ Ûi ` Àà V L i`° / >Ì½Ã Ì Þ LiV>ÕÃi Ì iÞ½Ài à i v Ì i LiÃÌ ÛiÀà à >À Õ `] Ì½Ã Ì >Ì Õ Ì ÀiVi Ì Þ] Ì i Ã> `Ü V ià ÕÃÌ >Ûi ½Ì Lii Ì >Ì Ü `i Þ >Û> >L i°

ië Ìi Ì i v>VÌ Ì >Ì Ì i * Ã Þ ÃÕ«« Ãi` Þ Ã º iÛi > `½Ã - } >ÌÕÀi -> `Ü V ]» Ì iÀi >à ½Ì iÝ>VÌ Þ Lii > LÕ «iÀ VÀ « v « >Vià >Ì Ü V Ì À`iÀ > ` i Þ Ì i ° >À}i Þ V w i`

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7 Ì ÀiëiVÌ Ì Ì i >ÃÌ V Ì>Ì ] Þ ÀiÃi>ÀV « Ìi` i Ì 6 À} 7 Ì Ài >Ã Ì i À } >Ì À° 7 Ì Ài >Õ V i` à w ÀÃÌ L>ÀLiVÕi à « Ì i Õ Ì * i>Ã> Ì i } L À ` L>V Ì i £ {äà Liv Ài «i } Ì i Ài « «Õ >À 7 Ì Ài½Ã >À + >Ì >ÃÌ nxÌ > ` i`>À° 7 Ì Ài½Ã }À> `à >ÀÀÞ /ÕÀ iÀ] Ü Ü ÀÕ Ã Ì° * i>Ã> Ì +] Ã>ÞÃ Ì >Ì Ì Ü>à à }À> `>` Ü w ÀÃÌ `iV `i` Ì V L i }Ài` i ÌÃ Ì >Ì i > Ài>`Þ >` > ` p LÕ ] Ã>ÕÃ>}i] V ià >Ü] vÀ iÃ] L>ÀLiVÕi Ã>ÕVi p Ì Ì i v> Õà > ` v> ÕÃ Þ iÃÃÞ Ã> `Ü V ° 7i ÀiVi Ì Þ ÃÌ Ài`` i½Ã - ÕÌ iÀ -ÌÞ i , L ÕÃi > ` -ÌiÛi½Ã Õ V ] ÌÜ « «Õ >À `iÃÌ >Ì Ã v À Ì i V >Ãà V Ã> `Ü V ] LÕÌ Ì iÀà >Ài « V } Õ« Ì i Ì ÀV ° >`` Ì Ì V >Ãà V ë Ìà i 7 Ì Ài½Ã] Ì ->ÕVi 7 > Ã] Ì° * i>Ã> Ì > ` E ] iÜ L>ÀLiVÕi Ìà i Ì i , L >}i] > ` * V V] Ì i V>ÃÕ> Ã>ÕÃ>}i Ì i i` i>ÌiÀÞ Ì i xÌ -ÌÀiiÌ ƂÀV>`iÃ] >Ài ` } > LÀ à LÕà iÃà * à Þð "À`iÀ Ì i * Ã Þ >Ì > ÌiÀ] Ì i « ÕÌ i] Ã>ÕÃ>}i] > ` L ÌÌ i à « i « À Õ Ì i iÌÀ Ì - ÀiÜ>Þ i } L À `] > ` Þ Õ½ Li ÀiÜ>À`i` Ü Ì > ÃÌi >À ÛiÀà LÕ Ì >À Õ ` Õ VÞ] ÕÃi >`i i L>Ã>° / i }À i` Ã>ÕÃ>}i à ÌÕV i` Ì > ë Ì Ì « LÕ > ` VÀ Ü i` Ü Ì Ã >Ü] «iÀviVÌ vÀ ià > ` Ã>ÕVi° v }ÕiÃÌà >Ì >Li ½Ã + ` Ü Ì Ü V> «ÀÞ Ì i Ãi Ûià >Ü>Þ vÀ Ì i À Là > ` LÀ à iÌ] Ì iÞ } Ì V à `iÀ À`iÀ } Ì i * à À ] > V >Ãà V ÌÜ ÃÌ Ì >Ì ÌÀ `ÕVià à i` « À Ì Ì i «>ÀÌÞ° Õ Ì >Ì « > V >Ãà à v i L>Ã> vÀ }Ì i 7iÃÌ - `i >À iÌ LÕÌV iÀ E âÕV À> à > w } Ã> `Ü V Ì ««i` Ü Ì V ià >Ü > ` Ã>ÕVi° "ÛiÀ >Ì * V V] Ì i * Ã Þ ÃÌ>ÀÌÃ Ü Ì V >À }À i` à i` « À Ã>ÕÃ>}i] Ü V à V>««i` Ü Ì vÀ iÃ] à >Ü > ` Ã>ÕVi° ƂÌ Ì i « «Õ >À 7>Ài ÕÃi

ÃÌÀ VÌ L>À >« , ] }ÕiÃÌà V> À`iÀ Ì i ÀiÜ >ÀiÞ] > ÛiÀà v Ì i * Ã Þ Ì >Ì ÃÜ>«Ã Ì i i L>Ã> v À > > Liiv Ì ` } Ì ««i` Ü Ì + Ã>ÕVi] à >Ü > ` vÀ ið 7 iÀiÛiÀ Þ Õ }iÌ Ì] ÕÃÌ Li ÃÕÀi Ì >à v À iÝÌÀ> >« ð

A TASTE OF SPAIN & PORTUGAL IN DOWNTOWN CLEVELAND

1390 W. 9TH STREET | 216-687-9494 | clevelandmallorca.com (Cleveland Warehouse District)

Voted Best Seafood In Cleveland 3 Years In A Row! Follow Us On

Plan Your Company Party With Mallorca!

(Accommodates groups of 25 or more)

HAPPY HOUR EVERYDAY from 3pm-6pm!

$5 Small Plates $12 Not So Small Plates $2 - $5 Drink Specials

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Greasy Spoon Love 8 of our favorite diners, because not everything has to be so fancy to be delicious

By Douglas Trattner

R

estaurants can be so demanding, what with all the showering, teeth LÀÕÃ }] > À V L } > ` ÕÌw Ì Ãi iVÌ } required to look halfway presentable.

Diners, on the other hand, have always been our come-as-you-are refuge, where coffee is a given, conversation is optional and tabs easily can be paid with the loose bills in one’s pocket.

The Diner on 55th | Photo by BurkleHagen

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perfection, from the oversized pancakes to the biscuits and gravy. Mushroom and cheese omelets with oniontopped homefries and a side of buttery grits will set you straight, as will the hearty corned beef hash with tender potatoes, green peppers and eggs.

Diners, also known as the only good thing New Jersey has going for it, come in all shapes and sizes. The affable, affordable greasy spoons of our misspent youth have been joined by more ambitious chef-driven diners, where the focus still is on breakfast and lunch, but the ingredients and composition are anything but average.

Here are a few of our favorites.

Grumpy’s

Hotspot Cafe 1332 Carnegie Ave., 216-2391141, hotspotcafecleveland.com It’s tough to beat the location and free parking of this contemporary diner, which has helped plug the gap when it comes to downtown breakfast providers. Morning items include buttermilk pancakes, sourdough French toast, corned beef hash and breakfast burritos.

At lunch, guests can choose from housemade soups, a half dozen salads, half-pound Angus burgers, and a number of deli sandwiches like roast beef with horsey sauce.

George’s Kitchen 13101 Triskett Rd., 216-671-0430 For decades, George’s Kitchen has been the place to go for µÕ V w Ài ÃiÀÛ Vi] }i iÀ ÕÃ portions, and consistent food morning, noon or night. The massive menu runs the gamut from three-egg omelets for breakfast to Greek moussaka for dinner. There really is something for every taste and appetite here, with corned beef hash and country-fried steak with eggs and home fries to crusty patty melts dripping with grilled onions, triple-decker Clubs and even veal Parmesan.

North Main Diner 16 North Main St., Chagrin Falls, 440-893-9599, nmdiner.com For as long as folks can remember, there has been a diner in the heart of Chagrin

The Diner on 55th | Photo by BurkleHagen Falls. These days that diner is North Main, where locals fuel up on home-style favorites like buttermilk pancakes with housemade sausage, griddled mashed potato cakes with pepper gravy, and countryfried steak and eggs. At lunch, classic Mawby’s burgers are served with the requisite paprika grilled onions, houseroasted turkey is paired with mashed potatoes and sage gravy, and from the 1940s-era soda fountain come genuine phosphates, malts and egg creams.

The Diner on 55th 1328 East 55th St., 216-3610550, dineron55th.com When this shimmering chrome diner opened at East 55th and St. Clair 15 years >} ] Ì ÌiÀ> Þ > ` w }ÕÀ>Ì Ûi Þ brightened up the entire area — and it isn’t just the y V iÀ } i > ` ÛiÀÃ âi` exterior clock. A classic the day it was born, this diner dishes up timeless staples all day long, starting with breakfast sandwiches, french toast, or y > Þ L ÃVÕ ÌÃ Ü Ì Ã>ÕÃ>}i gravy and eggs. Blue Plate Specials like liver and onions

come with potato, soup, salad, bread and butter. For the lighter appetite there’s a Cobb salad brimming with fresh greens, grilled chicken and hard-boiled egg.

Mike & Dee’s Diner 629 Euclid Ave., 216-621-1505, mikeanddeesdiner.com Except for the setting, a small interior space off the lobby of the Holiday Inn Express on Euclid, this is a classic breakfast and lunch diner. There’s room for 50 on swivel stools at a lengthy counter or at low-slung tables. Ì i À }] Ì i y >ÌÌ « w à up with French toast, pancakes and three-egg omelets.

Lunchtime is all about matzo ball soup, triple-decker Clubs and crispy fries, and griddled Reubens with corned beef, Swiss and kraut on rye.

Big Al’s Diner 12600 Larchmere Blvd., 216-791-8550 If there’s a better way to start the day than with a visit to this Larchmere mainstay, we haven’t discovered it. ÛiÀÞÌ } Ì >Ì y ià ÕÌ v that cramped kitchen is diner

2621 West 14th St., 216-2415025, grumpys-cafe.com Grumpy’s has been a vital component of the nearwestside for more than 20 years. Now in its second home, this well-worn gem is warm, welcoming and homey.

iÀÃ y V iÀi v À LÀi> v>ÃÌ items with a creative twist, like walnut-crusted French toast topped with cinnamon honey apples, or a jambalaya omelet stuffed with chicken, shrimp, ham, sausage and rice. The pitch-perfect Walker Hash marries spicy home fries with eggs, chorizo and andouille sausage, okra and cheddar cheese.

Jack Flaps 3900 Lorain Ave., 216-961x£ ] >V y >«Ã°V Squarely in the “newfangled” category, this edgy diner in Ohio City does things a bit differently — and that’s great news for diners. On tap are a host of creative plates LÕ Ì >À Õ ` «> V> iÃ] Ü>vy ià and French toast, many of which are savory not sweet. A LÀi> v>ÃÌ L> w à > à mosh bagel with Vietnamese sausage, fried egg and kicky kimchi, while the “Real F*ing Breakfast Burrito” is stuffed with adobo-braised beef, eggs, hash and cheese. It’s gilded with smoked tomato salsa and crema. On the sweet side of the menu are items like French toast with peanut butter, jam, Nutella and “cereal milk whipped cream.”

SCENE | FLAVOR 41

FLAV V R SCENE MAGAZ I N E

Best of the ‘Burbs

The inner-ring dining neighborhoods get a lot of love. These suburban gems deserve some too

By Douglas Trattner

W

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Flour

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42 4 2 SCENE SSC CEN E E | FLAVOR FLAV FL A OR O

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FEATURING....

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FROM THE PEOPLE THAT BROUGHT YOU THE RAIL... AND LOCATED RIGHT NEXT DOOR.

SCENE | FLAVOR 43

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Grove Hill ­ >}À > î

iv Ü iÀ / > ` ½Ã Ü À ÃÌ ÀÞ ÃÌ>ÀÌi` > }à `i V >i -Þ iÛi > ` > ` V Õ`ià V >«ÌiÀà > >ÌÌ> ] Ì i > «Ì à > ` /Ài Ì° / iÃi `>ÞÃ] i½Ã « Ü } Ì i L>V {ä v >}À > Ã] Ü iÀi i LÀ Õ} Ì Ì i ` ,> ÌÀii ë Ì Ì Ì i `iÀ iÀ> Ì > Ã Ì L ` > ` i`}Þ Ƃ iÀ V> v>Ài° ,>Ü ÞÃÌiÀÃ] }À i` VÌ «Õà Ã> >` > ` ë VÞ > L i>ÌL> à i>` Ì ÃÜiiÌ « Ì>Ì } VV ] LÀ> Ãi` > L à > à > ` Ì V }À i` « À V «Ã° / i ÃiÌÌ } à V Û Û > ] V Ìi « À>ÀÞ > ` >à v À > >à / ÕÀÃ`>Þ } Ì « iÀ°

Warren’s Spirited Kitchen

44 SCENE | FLAVOR

­ ÕÀÌ ® / iÀi >Ûi > Ü>Þà Lii }Ài>Ì Ài>Ã Ã Ì Û Ã Ì ÕÀÌ ] LÕÌ V Ìi « À>ÀÞ ` } ÃÌ À V> Þ >à ½Ì Lii i v Ì i ° / ià >Ài V > } }] > ` Ì Ã V âÞ Ã> à «À v° *À Ý ÌÞ Ì Ã > v> Þ v>À à ` iÃ Ì } Ü>ÃÌi` ` à ià i vÀ i` ÀÕÃÃi à ëÀ ÕÌÃ Ü Ì V> >« i ÃÞÀÕ«] ÕÀÌ V V i Ü Ì V Õ ÌÀÞ > ] > ` " ÃÌÀ « ÃÌi> vÀ Ìið / i Ü iÀà ` ` > ÃÜi L ÌÀ> Ãv À } > v À iÀ Vi VÀi> à « Ì > ÃÌÞ Ã

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ÕL vii à i > Üi V i L >ÃÌ vÀ Ì i «>ÃÌ° 7 i Ì i VÕÀÀi Ì ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ> Ì Ã º Þ» Óx Þi>Àà `] Ì i } V>L ÃiÌÌ } à vÀ Ì i £ xäÃ] > } Ì ÃÌ> ` ÕÌ i > >ÀÌ v>VÌ iÝÌ Ì > Ì i Ã Þ iÜ V ÃÌÀÕVÌ ° " Vi à `i] Ì i Ü À ` i Ìà >Ü>Þ] Ài« >Vi` LÞ ÃÌ vv V V Ì> Ã] Üi`}i Ã> >`Ã] Ì V ÃÌi> à > ` vÀ i ` Þ ÃiÀÛ Vi°

Le Bistro du Beaujolais ­" ÃÌi` > î 9i>Àà >} ] Ì Ã Ài V ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ> Ì Ài V>Ìi` vÀ > ÃÌÀ « 7iÃÌ > i Ì > £nÎäà v>À ÕÃi " ÃÌi` > ð Ƃ ` Ü i Ì i Ûi Ü>à > >Là ÕÌi Ü v À Ü iÀ i À}ià ½ ƂÀÀ>Ã] Ì >`i Ì ÕÃÌ > L Ì >À`iÀ Ì Ài>V > V à ÃÌi Ì L>à ð 7i « i v À Ü vi >Õ` i½Ã «À Û V > Ài V v ` > ` i À}iý Ü>À > ` V >ÃÃÞ V « ÀÌ i Ì] «i } L ÌÌ ià v Ü i > ` `i ÛiÀ } « >Ìià v Ƃ Ã>Ì > Ì>ÀÌ À à > à }>À V LÕÌÌiÀ > ` «>Àà iÞ° v «> Ãi>Ài` à >Ìi Ü } Ã Ì i i Õ] }iÌ Ì° v Ì] Ì i V µ >Õ Û Ü Ài Ì > ` °

1224 W 6th Street Cleveland, OH, 44113 Pickup Hours

Delivery Hours

9am-3am Monday-Friday 11am-3am Saturday-Sunday

10am-3am Monday-Friday 12pm-3am Saturday-Sunday

SCENE | FLAVOR 45

FLAV R

Glory Days

S C EN E MAGA ZI NE

Eating vegan in Northeast Ohio has never been easier or more scrumptious

By Adam Rosen

M

y brother always says heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a vegan between meals.

Yes, in fact, the air we breathe is vegan. But beyond that, in 2016 itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easier than ever to eat a plant-based diet, and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not just talking about salad or veggie burgers.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not that thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been some massive proliferation of vegan restaurants in Cleveland.

Sadly, we lost two of my favorite standbys this year, Pure and Supreme and the Flaming Ice Cube. Newer spots like Cleveland Vegan and Helio /iĂ&#x20AC;Ă&#x20AC;> Â&#x2026;>Ă&#x203A;i w Â?Â?i` Ă&#x152;Â&#x2026;i Ă&#x203A;i}>Â&#x2DC; restaurant void admirably. But whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most encouraging is how many Cleveland chefs are getting creative with plants at their restaurants. They produce some fantastic dishes worthy of ordering regardless of your dietary restrictions.

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve traveled the country eating some the best vegan food and I can proudly say that Cleveland Ă&#x192;Ă&#x152;>VÂ&#x17D;Ă&#x192; Ă&#x2022;ÂŤ Ă&#x153;Â&#x2C6;Ă&#x152;Â&#x2026; Ă&#x152;Â&#x2026;i w Â&#x2DC;iĂ&#x192;Ă&#x152; Â&#x153;v Ă&#x152;Â&#x2026;iÂ&#x201C;° Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve compiled a comprehensive, but by no means exhaustive, list of my favorite vegan meals around town. I encourage you to try them all. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll discover that vegan food has come a long way in this meat and potatoes town. s !VOCADO 4OAST AT 2ESTORE Get it with extra tomato.

46 SCENE | FLAVOR

Cleveland Vegan | Photo by Emanuel Wallace s #HICKEN &RIED #AULIm OWER AT 0URA 6IDA Vegan soul food. Start with the vegan nachos. s 2ICE 3TICKS AT This unique dish is smothered in an Asian buffalo sauce of some kind. s 6EGAN 0IZZA AT #OWELL AND (UBBARD Tofu mozzarella and crumbled seitan. s 2EUBEN AT (ELIO 4ERRA A Cleveland classic without the meat. s &REAKIN 2ICAN AT 4EA (OUSE .OODLES Who knew tofu and olives could be friends? s 0HO AT 0HO 4HANG Just ask for the vegan pho. Perfect for a wintery day. s *ACKFRUIT &AJITAS AT *OHNNY -ANGO Jackfruit is so hot right now. If they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have it, get the pad Thai. s "UFFALO #HICKPEA 0IEROGI AT *UKEBOX Cleveland standby with a New-World twist. Dip in vegan ranch. s 4HE "RAVOCADO AT "EET *AR Coconut. Bacon. Take a ginger shot to warm up the belly. s #OCONUT #URRY 3OUP AT 4EA 2EVIVAL Sip on a housemade kombucha.

s 4OM *ERD 3OUP AT "ANANA "LOSSOM All of their curry dishes are phenomenal. s 6IETNAMESE 3TIR &RY AT -INH !NH Order with no egg and peanut sauce Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2DC;Ă&#x192;Ă&#x152;i>` Â&#x153;v w Ă&#x192;Â&#x2026; Ă&#x192;>Ă&#x2022;Vi° iĂ&#x152; > tofu spring roll to start. s 'REEN "EAN 3ALAD AT &RANK S &ALAFEL You will need a mint after eating this due to all the garlic. s 4HE 6EGAN "URRITO AT 'RAFl TI This is not on the menu; just ask for it.

Polenta should be on every burrito. s 4HE 6ERY 6EGAN AT ,OCAL 7EST Indescribably delicious. They deliver. s 3PINACH AND 4OFU ,ASAGNA AT #LIFTON 7INE "AR Huge vegan menu is perfect for date night. s 3WEET 0OTATO AND +ALE "URRITO AT 4ACO 4ONTO S Go El Biggo or go home. s 6EGAN #HICKEN 'YRO AT *AMMY "UGGARS We all Â&#x2DC;ii` Â&#x153;Ă&#x2022;Ă&#x20AC; }Ă&#x17E;Ă&#x20AC;Â&#x153; w Ă?° s "ISCUITS AND 'RAVY AT #LEVELAND 6EGAN Comfort vÂ&#x153;Â&#x153;` >Ă&#x152; Â&#x2C6;Ă&#x152;Ă&#x192; w Â&#x2DC;iĂ&#x192;Ă&#x152;° s #ALZONE AT 2OOT #AFE A steamy pocket of goodness.

s :EN #UISINE AT 3ZECHUAN 'ARDEN They have every kind of faux meat possible. s 6EGAN #HICKEN AND 7AFm ES AT &ORAGE 0UBLIC (OUSE Brunch so hard. s 6EGAN 3LOP .IGHT AT .OW 4HAT S #LASS You never know what youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re going to get. s 4EMPEH (OAGIE AT -ELLOW -USHROOM Their marinated tempeh is to die for. s 9AMA 'OBO AT 'INKO The Â&#x153;Â&#x2DC;Â?Ă&#x17E; ÂŤÂ?>Vi Ă&#x152;Â&#x153; w Â&#x2DC;` ÂŤÂ&#x2C6;VÂ&#x17D;Â?i` burdock root in Cleveland. s 6EGAN 4ASTING -ENU AT $ANTE For those special occasions. s 6EGGIE "OWL AT #HAPATI )NDIAN 'RILL Trendy fastcasual joint caters to all. s 6EGGIE 'ENERAL 4SO S #HICKEN AT %MPEROR S 0ALACE Unlike anything youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve ever eaten. s 6EGETARIAN #OMBO AT %MPRESS 4AYTU Eat with your hands and stay for a few hours. s 4ACO 3ALAD AT 4OMMY S Made with textured veggie protein. Top with meatless chili for a massive feast.

What did we miss?

Dewing

Cleveland’s Best Sunday Brunch Join Us From 10am-2pm & Experience Our Delicious One of a Kind Menu Selections

347 Euclid Ave, Cleveland, Ohio 44114 216-622-2626 | www.thechocolatebar.com

Chocolate Strawberry Crepe

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together Dewey’s is for everyone who loves a fun, festive dining experience. Bring in your crew and we’ll show you a great time with our handcrafted gourmet pizzas, fresh hand-cut salads, local seasonal brews and more. join us AT THESE NEIGHBORHOOD LOCATIONS

HARRY’S is a Casual Steakhouse serving Great Steaks, Chops & Seafood at an affordable Price.

Over 15 Different Cuts Of Steak!

CEDAR LEE 2194 Lee Rd. Cleveland Hts. 216.321.7355 LAKEWOOD 18516 Detroit Ave. Lakewood 216.228.2299 FAIRLAWN 3265 W. Market St. Fairlawn COMING SOON

www.deweyspizza.com

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SCENE | FLAVOR 47

Spreading love around the world one sub at a time.