esprit issue 62 October 2019

PHARMACY & DEPARTMENT STORE RETAIL BEAUTY TRADE JOURNAL

ISSUE 62 OCT 2019

Deck the Halls!

Are your baubles retail ready for maximising on the Holiday masses?

Eye-novation at Glam Pro WHAT’S MAGNETISM GOT TO DO WITH LINER & LASHES?

Store Stories

COUNTER CULTURE, AISLE STYLE, ESPRIT COVERS SHOPFLOOR BEAUTY LIKE NO OTHER!

Talking Point Super Sales Time – Christmas, Singles’ Day, Black Friday and Cyber Monday

PIA MUEHLENBECK GLAMBASSADOR

MAGNETISING EYELINER & LASH SYSTEM

EDITOR’S LETTER Take a look at the lead photo in our Dream Ball report on page 42. Come back to me here, but just flick forwards and look into their eyes. Deanna Chapman spoke at the Ball from the perspective of someone going through cancer treatment and attending a Look Good Feel Better Workshop. This courageous woman is now on the happy side of her diagnosis and her beaming smile tells of her lust for life going forwards with her family.

Makeup and community played a magical little part in making Deanna’s journey more bearable.

Playing with cosmetics in a group of women in the same circumstances as her yet delving deeper into lippie shades and foundation application led the annimated conversations, rather than sombre exchanges of treatment protocols. And then using the makeup in their day-to-day lives – it brought them back to themselves. They felt more like their old self and confidence began to return.

This is the transformative power of the products we sell every day. We want to look our best and we want to shine brighter sometimes. Popping on a pinky pout or brushing up a bold brow, helps each one of us feel like we can take on whatever presents itself just that little bit more zestfully.

CHANGE OF GUARD

Terry Little – General Manager Oceania, Estée Lauder Companies has announced his retirement. He’s off! And Bon Voyage to you my friend.

I have known Terry Little since the ‘80s – when we both had big power hair-dos (wish I had a photo to show you) and boy has he given this industry his best. But it’s time to take on a different pace of life; the golf course is calling and good on him for accepting that call. See you on the 19th hole for a pint Tezza.

4| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

WHAT A TREAT TO HAVE TIME WITH A FAVOURITE INDUSTRY LEGEND, GAVIN BLACKBURN WHO RETIRED AS MD OF COTY THREE YEARS AGO – HERE WE ARE, CELEBRATING FROSTBLAND’S 70TH BUSINESS BIRTHDAY

Why we do it Uri Ferster has moved aside from the Managing Director’s role at Frostbland, giving long time management colleague, Amanda Gani the reigns. Uri is now feverishly excited about standing back and working on overall strategy for building the business. Away from the day-to-day he has a helicopter view serving his creative business mind focussd on company growth.

And then there’s me. I always thought 2019 was going to be a year of busily putting new things in place to build upon and watch flourish in 2020. First up my hair broke off in bits at the beginning of the year. My blonde bombshell ‘do’ had exploded. As good timing happens I saw a hair growth brand on Life Pharmacy’s (Queenstown, NZ) Instagram – évolis.

I arranged to meet the Sales Director, Gary McCaw at the APP pharmacy expo.

With an évoliscope analysis he prescribed Reverse Activator. That was April and now at time of writing in September I have a forest of new hair growing. And no more peroxide, meaning nature is taking its course. I have been trying all sorts of toner shampoos and am embracing a silverier hue. Searching for a shade name I feel comfortable using to describe it, I have discarded ‘silver’, I won’t even say the ‘g’ word and I have chosen ‘champagne’.

Like Terry, I have worked in the retail beauty business for yonks; as editor of this magazine since setting up my own publishing company in London in 1987.

Before that I worked on the hairdressing, beauty and pharmacy trade press in the UK since 1979. Using all your fingers and toes a few times over, you’ll understand the maths that has driven my decision. I have reached a stage in my career when I am going to move...not away, not up… but ‘at large’. My Editor’s seat will be filled with someone absolutely fabulous who ‘gets’ you, our faithful readers. And I will be

out and about, like Uri, with a helicopter view and my hands still on, but not all day, every day. I am looking forward to having the space in my mind to be creative and continue to bring my years of experience in publishing and trade beauty into the mix, as Editor At Large.

I am loving the evolution of esprit with the launch in May of our website. It thrills me to go “in the back end” (an expression I always find humour in the inuendo …

I’m sorry, I can’t help it, nor do I wish to stifle my cheekiness). In the back end I can write a report, press a button and boom, it’s published. Dang! A typo. Back in I go and amend the error. Boom again, it’s ship shape and we’re instantly delivering you, our digital readership a fresh story literally hot off the wires.

I ‘get’ the digital publishing benefits now – after 42 years in print publishing.

There’s power and pleasure in both. The way Intermedia (esprit’s new publishing home) has worked its expertise of running 30 magazines, each with its own dynamic website, it all makes sense. Websites are not static information sites. Ours are moving and fresh every day. Once a week we scoop up a collection of news, views and features for our newsletter. This you must sign up for. Hop on the website, scroll down and sign up! You know you want to!

Pat yourself on the back for the part you play in this empowering beauty business. As the whole industry evolves in a more environmental, sustainable, cleanly formulated way, it’s giving back much more than that which is just skin deep.

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issue

62 Contents

COVERSTORY – GLAM PRO BY MANICARE - 10 Glam Pro by Manicare was first-to-market in Australian pharmacies in April with a magnetising eyeliner and lash system: “A giant step forward in lash tech, the world-first system has been the brand’s most popular launch of 2019”

TREND – ORIENT EXPRESS – 12 How the China Market is evolving

INTERVIEW – URI FERSTER – 16

GLAM PRO BY MANICARE Who doesn’t want: Minimum Effort, Maximum Impact? And with the party season coming on strong this is exactly what McPherson’s Smart Beauty Brand Strategy is targeting.

Talking Manicare and Glam Pro, Juliette Toolin, Marketing Manager, Essential Beauty for McPherson’s tells Elisabeth King how technology has created more demanding consumers, driving beauty brands to introduce game-changing innovations. From AI to advanced tools to streamline makeup routines and fast-track application it’s all about little effort and loads of impact.

As Frostbland turns 70, Uri Ferster looks back, as he drives the company forward

TALKING POINT – BLACK FRIDAY, CYBER MONDAY & CHRISTMAS – 20 International Shopping Events – hear what your peers are saying works best for their business

5 MINUTES WITH… ZOË FOSTER BLAKE – 26 Beauty writer maven to beauty brand creator

BOOK TIME – MICHAEL EDWARDS PENS A PERFUME PAIR – 32 Perfume Legends II and Fragrances of the World 2019

INDUSTRY NEWS – 34

Magnetic lashes? Now you’re talking… read all about it on pages 10 and 11.

From David Jones’ beauty floor opening to Heat Group’s cyber-attack – this is where you get your beauty business news

Contact details

COMMUNITY PHARMACY PHARMACY ASSISTANTS ON THE FRONTLINE - 54

esprit Magazine Australia Editor Andrea Ferrari M: +61 (0)410 067 966 E: andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au Sales & Marketing Director Nicci Herrera M: +61 (0)426 826 977 E: nicci@esprit-magazine.com.au Junior Online Journalist Sarah Mourtos M: +61 (0) 416 300 380 E: sarah@esprit-magazine.com.au

The Guild Pharmacy Assistant of the Year, Alice Vanderpol says: “know your worth”

BUSINESS – 60 Experts and leaders share their proven tactics and strategies to build your business

MY JOURNEY – KATE GILDEA – 72 Education in two diverse disciplines continues to serve this engaging beauty industry communications expert

Art Director Leanne Hogbin E: leanne@intermedia.com.au NEW MAILING ADDRESS esprit Magazine Australia P.O. Box 55, Glebe, NSW 2037 Australia Subscription Rates $132.00 per annum (Aus) $167.70 per annum (NZ) $205.20 per annum (Int) All rates are inclusive and AUS$.

Articles that appear in esprit Magazine Australia may not be reproduced without permission of the publishers.

The opinions expressed in esprit Magazine Australia are not necessarily those of the publishers.

Published by Percolate Media Pty Ltd – a division of Intermedia Group 41 Bridge Rd, Glebe NSW 2037 P: 02 9660 2113 F: 02 9660 4419 ACN: 629 613 583 Issue 62: ISSN 1449-8018

Previous issues

OUT & ABOUT – 76 Socials and Showings – catch up on who’s been getting out and doing what

INFLUENCER – THAT’S YOU, THE BEAUTY ASSISTANTS – 84

Subscribe to esprit Magazine Australia’s online newsletter for insights, competitions, sales tips.

Go to: www.espritmagazineaustralia.com.au

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Nigel Stanislas, Rescu Me academy, Icy Ling and Michael Brown share their modus operandi to help you build your career…be inspired!

BRAND NEWS – 96 New products are the stars here – as they do their debut appearance

© 2019 Estée Lauder Inc.

Wear Confidence Double Wear Makeup 24-hour staying power

esteelauder.com.au

Expert

Contributors ELISABETH KING ICY LING AINSLIE WALKER

MICHAEL BROWN DR DOMINIC BURG ACCORD

Associate Editor

Business Features

DR DOMINIC BURG

MICHAEL BROWN

Dr Dominic Burg is esprit Magazine Australia’s latest R&D guru – Chief Scientist for pioneering hair and scalp health leaders évolis® . Dr Burg is a biochemist and systems biologist with expertise in hair and scalp biology, particularly hair cycle signaling.

With a career spanning academic research and the private sector, Dr Burg has published numerous scientific papers and is a respected educator and scientific communicator, as well as a doting father.

Dominic’s article in this issue covers: Understanding hair health – it starts and ends with the follicles.

Growing up as a dancer in Perth, Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘Art’ of Make-up Artistry and in 2001 he landed his first role in retail cosmetics as an event make-up artist.

Michael’s career as a travelling makeup artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney in 2006 where he became a National Makeup Artist and Makeup Trainer for AUS/NZ. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him wide exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene, that when he went freelance in 2012, his journey was only at the beginning…Michael is now not only a Celebrity Makeup Artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra as well as beauty voice at rescu.com.au.

ELISABETH KING Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to leading newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the best-selling book - Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty. In May 2003, she was the inaugural Australian winner of the Jasmine Award 2003, an international award for excellence in fragrance journalism. As the grooming editor of Men’s Style she won a second Jasmine award for the magazine in 2010. She is also the beauty editor of House & Garden magazine and a weekly columnist for beautydirectory.com.au.

AINSLIE WALKER Ainslie has worked with brands such as Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, The Refinery and Gentlemen’s Tonic in the UK. In April 2014, she was recognised in Australia for her contribution to Fragrance Journalism, receiving a Jasmine Award for Best Blog 2014. Ainslie is available for spa, fragrance and retail consultancy, product development and fragrance journalism. www.ainsliewalker.com.

Just do it…

SIGN UP TO ESPRIT’S WEEKLY NEWSLETTER!

ICY LING Ni Hao (which means ‘Hello’ in Chinese). My name is Icy Ling, known as icybutterfly. Some people think I am an Australian Chinese influencer. Actually, I work for an East Coast, well recognised high fashion, lifestyle and beauty magazine (to local Chinese), called ‘Indulgence’.

After working in retail, evolving to become a blogger and freelance editor, I have now become a senior fashion and beauty editor, also leading the magazine’s digital team – busy, but I am truly grateful for being able to work for my passion.

esprit CAREE R S ONLINE

ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments.

8| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

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Minimum Effort, MAXIMUM IMPACT MCPHERSON’S SMART BEAUTY BRAND STRATEGY TARGETS THE PARTY SEASON

by Elisabeth King

Technology has created more demanding consumers and beauty brands are introducing game-changing innovations from AI to advanced tools to streamline makeup routines and fast-track application. Magnetic lashes were the number one beauty-related inquiry on Google’s Year in Search last year and the mega-trend is here to stay.

Glam Pro by Manicare was first-to-market in Australian pharmacies in April with a magnetising eyeliner and lash system, says Juliette Toolin, Marketing Manager, Essential Beauty for McPherson’s. “A giant step forward in lash tech, the world-first system has been the brand’s most popular launch of 2019”.

Targeted at avid users and false lash newbies, Glam Pro quickly became the number one brand in magnetising eyeliner and the top innovator in the eyelash category. At the end of September, Phase 2 of what Toolin calls the ‘Click Revolution’ arrived in store for the party season.

Beauty fans really love the fact that the Glam Pro lash system is quick and easy to apply, there’s no messy glue and the magnetic lashes click on to the eyeliner and stay put, she adds. “To extend the range of looks, we have launched three new mink effect lash styles.

Charlotte is a natural look with two layers of ultra-fine lashes. Alexis offers two multi-tiered lashes with lifted and curled tapered ends for a lush finish. For those after a more dramatic eye, Phoebe features two luxe crisscrossed lashes with multidimensional tips”.

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Magnetised eyeliner and lashes have invigorated the entire category in Australia and overseas. “The trend has moved far beyond early adopters and we are giving retailers strong support through digital and premium content generation for social from the brand’s ‘GLAMbassador Pia Muehlenbeck; in order to create maximum connection with consumers”, says Toolin.

BEC + BRIDGE LIMITED COLLECTION TAKES AIM AT GEN Z

Reaching out to Gen Z has become a steamroller strategy. Glam by Manicare has teamed with Bec + Bridge, the youthful fashion brand known for its modern take on party dresses and cool separates.

The limited-edition collection of makeup brushes - foundation, powder, contour and eyeshadow duo launches in October and the chic handle designs are inspired by the label’s Spring/Summer collection.

“Apart from the gifting appeal, the lineup generates newness and the affordable price points are aimed

Feet come out of hibernation in summer and it’s not a pretty sight in many cases. More consumers are investing in quality tools for more professional and personalised solutions. The Manicare pediPro premium foot tool range also makes its store debut in October. The trio was designed in Korea and can be used on wet or dry skin. The Callus Remover uses 240 micro blades to gently remove thickened, dead skin and the Softroc exfoliator provides 360° all-round coverage to buff away rough skin. For added sheen, the Callus File featuring Diamondcel multidirectional grit smooths down calluses fast. “The range is like a SPA revival for the feet and will appeal to loyal and new Manicare customers”, notes Toolin.

COVER STORY

FEET FIRST WITH QUALITY TOOLS / HEART EQUALS SMART

at attracting Gen Z consumers in their teens”, adds Toolin. “Bec + Bridge is an accessible and inspirational Australian brand and this strong message carries over to the brush collection”.

Lady Jayne, Australia’s number one hair accessories brand with a 48 per cent market share in pharmacy, is also part of the Bec + Bridge collaboration. “We decided to refresh and re-introduce the brand to younger consumers with a designer treatment on our key hair accessories”, says Toolin. “Our best-selling detangling brush has been given a designer makeover for the season, as well as our basic scrunchie; which is back big time with younger consumers. Like the Glam Pro makeup brushes, they are perfect for gifting and provide top quality for the price”.

DEEP CLEAN BEAUTY

The polished skin look is one of the biggest trends of 2019 and is vital to the equally trendy natural makeup look. Consumer interest in smart solutions is also at an all-time high. Manicare is the number one beauty accessories brand in Australia and the leading growth contributor to the category. One of the brand’s most successful recent launches is the Manicare Sonic Mini, says Toolin. “The palmsized cleansing device has been a huge hit owing to its accessible price point, quick charge and ability to deep clean five times more thoroughly than with the hands alone. Within 26 weeks of launch, the Sonic Mini became the number one Manicare SKU in Priceline”.

To springboard further revenue streams and growth, Manicare is rolling out the new sensiScrub duo pack replacement heads in October. “A great gift for Sonic Mini fans in the leadup to Christmas”, says Toolin. “Everyone wants their skin to look its best during the warmer months; the gentle sonic vibration removes impurities helping you to achieve cleaner, brighter, healthier skin”.

Giving back to communities and charities has become an indicator of a company’s success and consumers are demanding that the brands they love have a passion and commitment to making a difference.

Increasingly, companies are also becoming involved in programs and sponsorships unique to their brand identity. Lady Jayne has been a market leader in hair brushes and accessories for over 90 years, and is partnering with Hair with Heart, a Variety children’s charity.

The charity was founded 12 years ago and helps young girls who suffer from alopecia, says Toolin. “Other young people are encouraged to donate their hair to make wigs for girls who have lost their hair due to a medical condition. For every donor, 20 others are impacted, and the program has reached 100,000 youngsters over the past five years.

Lady Jayne is launching the Gold Double Bar Slide costing $9.99 in October and 100 per cent of the profit will go to Variety’s Hair with Heart campaign. The initiative is part of our goal to add heart to our smart brand strategy”.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |11

Orient Express

- How The China Market is Evolving

by Elisabeth King

Over the past decade the growth of the Chinese beauty market has been little short of volcanic. According to a recent report from Euromonitor, beauty and personal care sales in China are predicted to reach US$62 billion by the end of next year. Australian beauty brands and retailers have been on the front foot in taking advantage of the new goldmine through daigous (Chinese personal shoppers), mega online shopping events and flagship stores on Alibaba and other major e-commerce giants.

In 2018 Alibaba Singles’ Day yielded another record result – a 27 per cent increase in sales to AUD$42.7 billion of gross merchandise value. Australia retained its number four ranking among the top 10 nations selling into China during the world’s largest shopping festival, behind Japan, the US and South Korea. Natural skincare was one of the fastest-growing categories and the most sought-after personal care products included face masks, serums, face washes, toners and makeup removers. DU’IT, Australia’s favourite dry

treatment skincare brand, for example, sold AUD$2.5 million worth of products to solidify its position as one of the top five per cent of Australian-made brands on Alibaba’s network.

JD.com’s 6.18 Shopping Event Posts Record Results / Global Brands Dominate Prestige Beauty Market JD.com is the other major titan of Chinese e-commerce and retailers like Chemist Warehouse repeated their Singles’ Day

12| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

success during the online giant’s 6.18 shopping festival in June as total sales reached a record-breaking US$24.2 billion this year. China is the world’s largest e-commerce market with sales expected to reach US$1.6 trillion next year and beauty is one of the top five categories.

Although many Australian brands have set up flagship stores, expanding into China is no easy ride. Austrade, Australia Post and the Australia-China Council have become strong partners and facilitators in helping companies of all sizes become China-ready.

Alibaba, JD.com and other majors are not simply sales channels, they also act as branding springboards for retailers and brands to pursue their strategies in China.

Global international brands dominate the prestige beauty market in China with a massive 92 per cent market share in 2017, reports the Hong Kong Trade Development Council. The top end of the market has enjoyed rapid double-digit growth over the past two years and has a 31 per cent market share. The two giants duking it out for market leadership in the prestige sector are L’Oréal Luxe, with its stable of brands

TREND

including Lancôme, YSL Beauty, Biotherm, Kiehl’s and Giorgio Armani, and Estée Lauder through La Mer, Clinique, M.A.C and Bobbi Brown. L’Oréal has the edge and the Asia/Pacific region is the multinational’s number one regional market. Estée Lauder reached the US$1 billion sales milestone for the first time in the Asia/Pacific region early in the year.

The Unstoppable Rise of C-Beauty But Chinese brands are a major force, accounting for 46 per cent of the skincare market and 44 per cent of colour cosmetic revenues. There’s nothing new about the phenomenon with key domestic brands dating back to the 19th and mid-20th centuries. The largest Chinese beauty brands include Vive and Herborist, owned

by Jahwa; Chando, Maysu, Botanical Wisdom and Insea, owned by Jala; Hanshu, One Leaf, Sonia and Red Elephant, owned

by Chicmax; Pechoin and Inoherb. L’Oréal Paris, Olay, Nivea and Dabao, acquired by Johnson & Johnson in 2008 for US$300 million, are among the top 10 masstige skincare brands.

The Chinese government’s program – ‘Made in China 2025’ – which focuses on encouraging local industries to lift their quality standards has strongly impacted the rise of domestic beauty brands. As has an emphasis on China’s historical and cultural heritage, which is amplified by movies and TV shows.

C-Beauty, as the domestic industry has been dubbed, is continuing to gain traction at a rapid pace. A survey by Kantar, one of the world’s leading data and insight companies, revealed that three out of four Chinese consumer respondents purchased beauty products from a Chinese brand in the average six months and 50 per cent indicated it was the first time they had bought C-Beauty items. The survey also reported that 40 per cent of consumers were willing to choose C-Beauty in the future and close to 90 per cent would consider a repeat purchase.

The success of C-Beauty brands doesn’t rest solely on price. Gen Z consumers, for

example, consider C-Beauty products to be innovative, high quality and also contain home-grown herbal ingredients. The leading brands partner with A-list Chinese celebrities and KOLs (key opinion leaders) on the dominant social media channels and apps such as Weibo, Little Red Book and WeChat. Understanding and using the social media platforms is also critical to the success of international brands. There are 822 million Internet users in China and 788 million access it through mobiles and smartphones. An increasing number of budget-conscious consumers also view C-Beauty products as cheaper me-toos of imported global brands.

Skincare Remains Dominant But More Chinese Using Makeup/Growing Interest in Niceh and Organic Brands Skincare remains the standout category in China with a 70 per cent market share.

Cosmetics account for just over 25 per cent of the country’s skincare and personal care sales, reports e-commerce researcher Ebrum. Lipstick and BB creams are the most widely-used products and prestige brands such as Giorgio Armani, YSL Beauté and M.A.C derive 80 per cent of their revenues in China from lipstick.

The lippie craze continues to surge, but multinationals have been working hard to get the Chinese to use other makeup items. The push is succeeding, thanks to apps, AI and video tutorials by major influencers. Mintel reports that more than 40 per cent of Chinese makeup users are inspired by celebrities and influencers when buying makeup. Kantar Retail says that 35 per cent of consumers added an additional item and steps to their makeup routines in 2017/2018, fueling growth of 56 per cent in the colour cosmetic market.

Foundation and eyeshadow experienced the most significant growth, notes the growth consultancy.

Chinese consumers are now among the most sophisticated, and knowledgeable in the world and there has been an upsurge of interest in niche brands. The big international names remain top-ofmind with 69 per cent of Chinese consumers preferring well-known brands. But a new report from Reuters:Intelligence reveals that 85 per cent of Chinese women surveyed were curious about niche and indie brands.

There’s nothing new about natural and organic beauty and skincare in China. Some of the oldest domestic brands are based in traditional Chinese medicine. But there has been an upsurge of interest in overseas brands with strong natural credentials.

A major stumbling block is that there is no official seal of approval, following the cancellation of certification by the Chinese Food & Drug Administration in 2012. To succeed, a brand must be authentic and communicate its brand story across all touchpoints. Fortunately, Australian brands have leverage through people of Chinese heritage living in Australia and local daigous and the widely-held belief in China that Australia is a leader in natural, organic and trend-driven products.

A travel retail presence and strategy are particularly important as a showcase and sales channel because the Chinese are the number one spenders in global duty-free.

Asia/Pacific duty-free and travel retail sales rose 14.2 per cent in 2018 to US$35.2 billion. Over 50 cents in every dollar spent went to fragrance or cosmetic purchases to reach annual sales of US$18 billion last year. Fears that China’s new e-commerce law, introduced in January, would crimp the spending of corporate and individual daigous and travel guides have proved groundless so far. But retailers are still keeping a weather eye on sales and growth.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |13

For stockist enquiries, please contact Luxasia Oceania on 02 9057 4625

Looking Back, MOVING FORWARD

URI FERSTER EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN, FROSTBLAND

ESPRIT CHATS WITH FROSTBLAND’S URI FERSTER

by Elisabeth King

Uri Ferster stepped aside from the role of Managing Director of Frostbland, one of Australia’s leading distribution and marketing companies in the beauty and health space, earlier this year. But in his new role as Executive Chairman, his hand is still on the tiller and he now has more time to plan development strategies for the company he took over 25 years ago.

Frostbland is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year and its longevity is testament to Ferster’s helicopter view of the beauty industry, determination and success in building strong and lasting relationships with key brands.

16| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

FROSTBLAND EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE: PAUL SULTANA, URI FERSTER, AMANDA GANI, ALAN KATZMANN, DANIEL RAGUZ, CHARLEY KELLY AND SIMON FERSTER

Founded by Izzy Leibovitch in 1949, the company was named after two financiers he worked with in Hong Kong, who invested startup capital following an agreement with the Serra family in Spain to distribute the iconic fragrance Tabu. When Leibovitch moved to Australia the company flourished, securing such household name brands as Rimmel and Brut. But by 1994 it was a distressed business, says Ferster. “There were so many staff changes, brands were no longer knocking on the door and some were exiting the company. Our vision was to build great brands and attract the best.

It was tough at first but within five years, Frostbland, as it now was, was back on track as a growing, successful business”.

Ferster is justifiably proud of reaching the 70th anniversary milestone. “Twenty five years ago, there were many more privately owned distribution companies. Today, few remain because of increased M&A activity and globalisation which has seen many beauty brands and companies acquired by larger players. When a brand is sold overseas, it is usually taken on by the local subsidiary. But there are other reasons for the contraction, including the limited number of retailers in Australia and it’s still an expensive exercise to build a brand, even though digital has made the process easier”.

Celebrating seven decades in business prompts a lot of reflection, says Ferster.

“Being in the beauty and health category has had a very positive effect on me and my family. We’ve come a long way in the past 25 years in terms of revenues, new brands and products. This year also celebrates the smooth segue to Amanda Gani taking over as the company’s Managing Director.

We have a great working relationship and she has a strong background in sales and marketing. Just as importantly, she really knows the business because she has worked here for 14 years. The changeover allows me to invest more time in planning strategies to take the company forward because I know the day-to-day business is in such good hands”.

ONE-STOP SHOP FOR SUCCESSFUL BRANDS

Our main aim is to be a one-stop shop, says Ferster. “We do all the functions for brands from sales and marketing to logistics and finance. There have been many new brand launches over the past five years and we are approached on a daily basis. We take a longterm view and look for brands with a unique POD which will go the distance. I want Frostbland to keep growing and reach its 100th anniversary and beyond”.

Frostbland ships more than 7 million units of health and beauty products a year, representing such on-trend brands as Bondi Sands, Ardell, Lanolips, Alya Skincare and stalwarts including Sebamed and Elizabeth Arden fragrances. “Before it was bought out

by Church & Dwight, one of our biggest successes was Batiste dry shampoo, says Ferster. “The brand still owns the category and the relationship really underlined our expertise as a one-stop shop. We really built up the brand’s profile and secured a significant amount of shelf space”.

Ardell entered the Frostbland stable nine years ago and the US brand is number one in the false eyelash category, says Ferster.

“It’s very successful in the US and the UK, which really translates to acceptance in Australia. Top quality and great price points have seen the brand achieve the lion’s share of the false eyelash market in Australia and growth is still accelerating”.

“Bondi Sands, Australia’s number one self-tanning brand, has become a global phenomenon. When we took it on in 2012, it had zero shelf space anywhere”, says Ferster. “Our relationship has been more of a partnership and the brand has been a smash hit on digital and social media. The business is amazing in Australia and New Zealand and growing strongly and Bondi Sands is also stocked in some of the world’s leading retailers, including Superdrug and Boots in the UK and Walgreens in the US”.

When Trimex was sold to the Clarins Group in 2015, Lanolips founder, Kirsten Carriol, came to us, says Ferster. “We already had a good relationship, and everyone involved was so passionate about the brand.

There has been very good growth in Australia and Lanolips has also done exceptionally well overseas, notably in Europe”.

The team-up with Elizabeth Arden fragrances has been in place for 19 years. “We were approached by senior management visiting from the US, who were looking for a company to complement its local sales force. They wanted a company that understood the whole market. The fragrances are essentially pharmacy distribution and the landscape has changed dramatically over the years because of parallel importing and market dominance by one specific retailer. But major fragrances like Red Door still do very well indeed”.

GROWTH OF OWN IP / STRONG CORPORATE CULTURE / COMMUNITY ENGAGEMENT

Ferster believes that developing the company’s own IP is crucial. “Currently, the sector represents only 8 per cent of the business and I am looking at several sectors for future growth. We are also interested in making acquisitions”.

One of the biggest initiatives internally at Frostbland over the past eight to 10 years has been the emphasis on a strong corporate culture. “We have a program called the Frostbland Pursuit - because it’s a journey, not a destination”, says Ferster. “We stress six core values, including having an entrepreneurial spirit, being passionate about what you do, teamwork and delighting, not just pleasing customers. It’s very important to have a strong corporate culture to attract and retain the best staff and management”.

Ferster has been a strong supporter of charities and important issues long

INTERVIEW

EFFECTS OF GLOBALISATION / NEW MANAGING DIRECTOR

before the current wokeness/ social awareness trend. “I am still on the board of the Cancer Patients Foundation as a volunteer director. I also ran the Dream Ball for 12 years and we still donate products, support the event and buy workshops”.

Women are our main consumers and I really wanted to reach out to those less fortunate, but you have to choose any charities you support wisely, adds Ferster. “I decided to support the Women and Girls Emergency Centre (WAGEC) in inner Sydney. It was difficult at first because the locations of shelters are kept secret.

We wrote to the NSW minister for family and community services Pru Goward MP for a list of shelters. We funded a 10-week parenting program in 2018 and this year a program to support mothers to get into the workforce for WAGEC and donate Sebamed products and moisturisers for women and babies”.

FUTURE GROWTH IN WELL-BEING

One of Frostbland’s most intriguing brands from a health point of view is Drug Alert.

“It began as a legacy of the mining boom, where workers are on two-weeks-on and two-weeks-off rosters. They party hard before going back to work and operating heavy machinery. It’s our own IP and consists of at-home use drug testing kits for street drugs and prescription drugs.

The technology offers similar results to professional screening without the need to send samples to pathology labs and is fully compliant with Australian and New Zealand standards. We received a lot of publicity when we launched Drug Alert and the kits are used by people as diverse as miners, truck drivers, pilots and surgeons.

We are currently working on the first OTC test kit for urinary tract infections which will be a true gamechanger”.

With the boom in nutraceuticals and ingestibles, Ferster believes that well-being brands will play an important role in the future development of Frostbland. “I am not talking about vitamins because that sector is saturated. But products to help the overall health and well-being of people of all ages”.

Ferster remains just as passionate about the beauty industry as he was 25 years ago.

“I love everything about it because it’s so dynamic. When I entered the business, we didn’t even have an Internet connection in the office and just look how digital and social media have transformed the entire industry. There’s so much more still to come and look forward to”.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |17

The Jojoba Company... launches new packaging & innovative NPD, celebrating 10 years with key media.

TALKING POINT

The

End of Year

Super Bounce

by Elisabeth King

Christmas, Black Friday, Cyber Monday and Singles’ Day Fuel Beauty Sales Bonanza The lead-up to Christmas and Boxing Day has long been the sweet spot at the end of the retail calendar year.

But international online shopping events such as Black Friday, Cyber Monday and Alibaba’s Singles’ Day have super-charged sales opportunities. Last minute shopping rushes have largely become a thing of the past as consumers meticulously research and make their Festive Season purchases to cue in with the best promotional offers and discounts.

20| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

“Over the past few years, the Australian market has been flooded by international retailers, so it makes sense that we adopt their key sales strategies to make sure we are competitive” – Mark Tucker phenomenon? The main drivers have been increased purchasing on mobile phones, targeted advertising directly to consumers and making online shopping an enjoyable experience through easy returns, fast shipping and more.

The beauty industry has reaped major rewards as brands and companies have become increasingly focused and sophisticated in reaching out to existing customers and recruiting new ones with value add-ons, deals and promotional offers.

SALES SURGE OVER 40 PER CENT/ STAYING COMPETITIVE/LOCAL EVENTS GROWING STRONGLY

Black Friday and Cyber Monday is our biggest shopping period of the year, says Katherine Mamontoff, Online & Omni-Channel General Manager Oceania, Estée Lauder Companies.

Katherine Mamontoff ONLINE & OMNI-CHANNEL GENERAL MANAGER OCEANIA, ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES

According to IPSOS, the global market research and consultancy firm, 24 per cent of Australians bought something online on Black Friday last year and 17 per cent pressed the Buy tab on Cyber Monday.

The four-day period has been dubbed Cyber Weekend because the annual splurge has morphed seamlessly together.

Australia Post’s 2019 eCommerce Industry Report backs up the IPSOS research by reporting that almost 15 per cent of annual e-commerce sales in Australia take place in five weeks from November 11th to December 15th.

Some of these events have been around for decades overseas, so why have Australians suddenly embraced the

“The period has been increasing in importance over the last three to four years.

Last year was our largest ever, growing sales over the weekend by 42 per cent. In addition, what started as mainly an online play for the company has now grown to taking an omni-channel view and being wherever the customer wants to shop over this crucial weekend”.

Although the Cyber Weekend holds great importance to our holiday trading success, it’s vital that the period doesn’t just pull forward sales we would have made in December, adds Mamontoff. “We know that customers are looking for the best deals that weekend and are in the mood to shop. But we also have to be conscious of maintaining momentum right up to the last trading day of the season, and that means spacing out offers, deals and new product launches over the entire holiday period”.

Over the past few years, the Australian market has been flooded by international retailers, so it makes sense that we adopt their key sales strategies to make sure we are competitive, says Mark Tucker, Strategy & Innovation Director,

Mark Tucker STRATEGY & INNOVATION DIRECTOR, PURE BEAUTY AUSTRALIA

Pure Beauty Australia. “While the beauty category has been less impacted by international retailers than fashion, the industry has capitalised on the shift to online and the major events that drive growth and volume sales. Beauty consumers were initially hesitant to try new products online because they couldn’t touch or smell them. But returns policies and more experience with buying online has gradually built this channel into a very significant opportunity”.

Before huge online events such as Black Friday and Cyber Monday, both online and offline retailers only had to create promotions leading up to Christmas/ Boxing Day to support the expectations of Australian consumers”, says Tucker.

“Now, we have Singles’ Day, which has been celebrated by the Chinese community since the early 1990s, but it is only since 2009 that Chinese online giant, Alibaba, has started to really monetise the event globally. Then we have Cyber Monday, started in 2005, and Black Friday, which has been a key sales moment in the US since the 1950s.

The growth of these events and the buying frenzy they create have made them powerful sales opportunities for beauty brands”.

It is very important for all Australian beauty retailers to be a part of these vital sales events to ensure they are not only competitive, but also to give consumers the best they can offer, adds Tucker. “It’s also about making sure Australian retailers understand their customers’ expectations to be part of these key events. Our brands - Blessed by Nature and Handsome - get uplifts of 500 per cent to 1000 per cent versus normal business. We also recruit new customers, who take advantage of the offers to try the brands and products for the first time”.

Tucker also singles out Click Frenzy and Afterpay Day as major opportunities. “Both Australian events will continue to grow and develop and leverage their huge local CRM databases to drive traffic to your offers”.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |21

DRIVES STORE TRAFFIC/ INCREASES BRAND AWARENESS/ REPEAT PURCHASE BOOM

Singles’ Day, Black Friday and Cyber Monday have had a huge impact on Agence de Parfum and we have definitely seen an uplift in sales due to an increase of floor traffic in-store, says Nick Smart, Director of Libertine Parfumerie and Agence de Parfum, one of the Australia’s

Nick Smart DIRECTOR OF LIBERTINE PARFUMERIE AND AGENCE DE PARFUM

leading niche fragrance companies. “The events offer our fragrance professionals an amazing opportunity to introduce new customers to our brands, and to sample these new clients with other fragrances, extending our basic business platform.

We encourage our customers to become VIP members of our database during this period, enabling our teams to follow up and invite new customers to a unique fragrance masterclass experience or to receive new launches before they hit the shelves, continues Smart. “We find that Black Friday brings in the most sales and also pulls a lot of our December and Christmas sales forward. Our customer data capture has quadrupled as a consequence of these major sales events and our basic business is enjoying double digit growth year-on-year”.

Agence de Parfum is generally not discount-driven, unless a fragrance has been discontinued, says Smart. “Our premise is always to offer the best customer service and to continue to offer excellence to clients through our database. We are now entering a new phase of the Libertine business model with Myer Melbourne this year, expanding to Sydney next year. Myer is a perfect fit for Libertine, accessing a hitherto untapped young professional market”.

Brands put a lot of emphasis on Black Friday and other cyber sales because they are now ingrained in consumers’ mentality and preparation for Christmas, says Ludovic Dellazzeri, Managing Director of ghd Australia and New Zealand. “Through these sales events it

Ludovic Dellazzeri MANAGING DIRECTOR OF GHD AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND

has become apparent that the shopping experience is as important as the price or product. A development clearly indicated

“We find that Black Friday brings in the most sales and also pulls a lot of our December and Christmas sales forward. Our customer data capture has quadrupled as a consequence of these major sales events and our basic business is enjoying double digit growth year-on-year” – Nick Smart through such sales beginning earlier and earlier because the immediacy of the early sale options attracts customers and allows them to take further advantage of the offers”.

These events are not just a conversion opportunity, but also a brand awareness exercise leading to the holiday season, says Dellazzeri. “It is the responsibility of brands, when they choose to take part, to provide seamless experiences that attract customers and to ensure their nature is transparent. Whatever it is - free express shipping or easy returns - there has to be the reassurance of buying from a trusted brand. We are taking part in Black Friday and Cyber Monday again because we have enjoyed immediate and longterm conversions in previous years”.

The beauty (pun intended) of major online sales events such as Black Friday is that literally everyone can participate, says Gabrielle Requena, Founder and CEO of Wrinkles Schminkles.

Gabrielle Requena FOUNDER AND CEO OF WRINKLES SCHMINKLES

“Consumers prepare for these events and start their online research of what they want to buy and then hold off until the sales. While the consumer is in the mindset to shop, timely emails with promotional offers from brands are well-received and often lead to sales spikes”.

Even though we notice that transactions slow in the leadup to these events, overall sales are not cannibalised, says Requena.

“As beauty products are often repeat purchases, leveraging online sales events is a great way to ensure customers have product replacements in their beauty cabinets, as they are more likely to purchase at a discount with a promotional offer even if they have not run out of a product”.

KNOCK ON EFFECT TO CHRISTMAS/ EXCLUSIVE OFFERS/LOCALISED APPROACH

With the introduction of new shopping events there has been a shift in the retail

22| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

calendar, both online and offline, says Sophie Turnbull, Global Ecommerce & Digital Marketing Manager, Jurlique International. “Traditional

Sophie Turnbull GLOBAL ECOMMERCE & DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER, JURLIQUE INTERNATIONAL

online events such as Black Friday continue to go from strength-to-strength each year, predominantly from online channels which in turn dictates in-store promotional activity.

This has a knock-on effect to December, once typically the highest performance month, but which now trails behind the shopping events. Christmas sales are now largely reliant on five days in the Q4 calendar, which increases the pressure on retailers to get their offering and relevancy to the consumer right over this period”.

Black Friday, Singles’ Day and Cyber Monday are really adding to the hype of Christmas, says Nicholas Gorick, Managing Director Oceania, Luxasia. “A couple of years ago customers

Nicholas Gorick MANAGING DIRECTOR OCEANIA, LUXASIA

were getting confused and flustered by all the spontaneous discounting. But now everybody can get involved and, more importantly, plan for these events.

Discounting is a dangerous cycle for everyone if it’s not well-managed, but these events make it fun. They also offer companies the chance to bring exclusive offers to customers which are not available at other times of the year. I believe these types of events will only get larger and more exciting in the years to come”.

The impact of the super sale period cannot be underestimated, but it is quite a different beast depending on which part of the world you are talking about, says Jade Peak, General Manager International Export, McPherson’s Consumer Products. “The evolution is

TALKING POINT

JADE PEAK GENERAL MANAGER, INTERNATIONAL EXPORT, MCPHERSON’S CONSUMER PRODUCTS

a fascinating one when you consider that the origins of Black Friday go back to the 1950s in the US and Singles’ Day in China was the invention of a group of university students and originally had nothing to do with shopping”.

The proliferation of shopping festivals has occurred in many Western markets, including Australia, says Peak. “However, it is arguable that the Chinese shopping calendar more heavily dictates revenue flow in this single market than in any other in the world. McPherson’s has always sought to leverage major shopping events with a localised approach with great success.

We will continue to engage as we expand through export markets and different shopping festivals gain momentum”.

While major shopping events like Christmas, Black Friday and Cyber Monday have become a feeding frenzy for consumers, we prefer to take the quality over quantity approach to these sales opportunities at Burt’s Bees, says Nicola Quinn, Senior Brand Marketing Manager. “This

NICOLA QUINN SENIOR BRAND MARKETING MANAGER, BURT’S BEES

means that instead of offering discounts, we focus on adding value and quality in our product offering. For example, our Christmas gift sets not only give our consumers a value offering from our 99 per cent natural range, the sustainable packaging can be re-purposed for secondary use after Christmas as a jewellery or candle holder. This is an initiative we are really proud of as it focuses on reducing waste and protecting the planet”.

INCREMENTAL SALES BOOST/ IN-STORE FOCUS FUELS GIFTING

Black Friday and Cyber Monday now play a vital role in the retail space in Australia during the holiday season, says Zenovia Tsinontas, Marketing Manager, The

Zenovia Tsinontas MARKETING MANAGER, THE JOJOBA COMPANY

Jojoba Company. “With 2018 drawing in 3.6 per cent growth compared to the previous year, 2019 is set to sky-rocket.

Black Friday will fall in the last week of November this year, meaning customers will have a shorter shopping window”.

The Jojoba Company continues to enjoy double digit growth and we expect the holiday season to secure this growth both online and in-store, says Tsinontas. “This year The Jojoba Company has released four new packs to appeal to customers and stockist demand for jojoba-based skincare.

Priced from $19.95, each set is specifically designed to suit holiday skincare needs at affordable price points”.

The key to success with the major endof-year shopping events is that they don’t shift sales from the traditional Christmas selling period, but add to incremental sales, says Erica Galea, Marketing Manager, Chemcorp International.

Erica Galea MARKETING MANAGER, CHEMCORP INTERNATIONAL

“Creating an offer on existing lines works well for us during these events, so we can then target the Christmas period with new, different and limited-edition ranges. An example being two summer sets from Real Techniques, with brushes designed for the latest summer holiday/party season looks”.

In my view, these shopping events have loaded additional dollars into the end-ofyear period, but potentially at the expense of slower sales in the lead-up months, says Galea. “I think it will be interesting to watch during the coming season to see whether these online events continue to grow or start to plateau because of increased sales activity across channels throughout the year. There has been a definite increase in the frequency of deep

discount sales opportunities for shoppers to take advantage of. Consumers have been educated that there is no need to buy at regular retail and it’s become possible to purchase on any given day at 30 to 40 per cent off. Which raises the question - What kind of discount will be needed to stimulate annualised sales events to remain viable for brands in the longterm?”.

Coty is retaining a strong emphasis on in-store for Christmas, says Radek Strzelecki, Senior Brand Manager, Consumer Beauty at Coty ANZ.

Radek Strzelecki SENIOR BRAND MANAGER, CONSUMER BEAUTY AT COTY ANZ

“From our global research, we know that 13 per cent of cosmetics are bought as a gift. Therefore, capturing shoppers’ interest for our brands and closing the sale is fundamental. We also know from our UK research that when considering a Christmas gift, 84 per cent of shoppers look in-store and that is where we are putting our focus.

Self-gifting is also important - 38 per cent of gift sets are not bought as a gift to someone else”.

Coty power brands are household names famed for their quality and innovative packaging, says Strzelecki. “I am particularly excited about our Christmas crackers this year. We very much wanted to bring this trend from prestige to mass. The aim was to keep it simple - all crackers have the same $16 RRP, same design brought to life in different brand colours and all offer iconic products across eye, lip and nail segments. It’s a great way to drive product trial. As the biggest brand to achieve the Leaping Bunny certification in partnership with Cruelty Free International, Covergirl will also be offering the Covergirl Cruelty Free gift set”.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |23

esprit Magazine promotion

Arden’s advances with

CERAMIDE VITAMIN C Elizabeth Arden, famed for success with its Ceramide range, ups the ante today with the introduction of on-trend skincare hero vitamin C. Various points of difference position Vitamin C Ceramide Radiance Renewal Serum as one to watch. First up the powerhouse antioxidant ingredient – the notoriously unstable vitamin C – lends itself perfectly to the encapsulated format of the Ceramide capsules. And

Night Serum. And now, the #1 selling serum in a capsule* welcomes its newest innovation – Vitamin C Ceramide Capsules Radiance Renewal Serum. This dry oil serum combines two powerhouse ingredients in one capsule: vitamin C for its brightening superpowers and Ceramides, to prolong skin’s youthful glow.

Together, these complementary ingredient technologies create a fusion of results that

01.

as all vitamin Cs are not made equal, Arden has chosen the most potent version, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDA).

Formulated along with vitamin E – which helps stabilise vitamin C – it’s a smart formula in a smart format.

In 1990, Elizabeth Arden forever changed the skincare industry with the introduction of Ceramide Capsules – the first-of-its-kind, bio-engineered, skin-identical ceramides available in a single-dose capsule format. In 2018, Elizabeth Arden continued this legacy with the launch of the award-winning Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing

02.

01. ARDEN BC TRAINING – STAR OF THE SHOW IS VITAMIN C CERAMIDE RADIANCE RENEWAL SERUM.

02. PURE, POTENT, PRECISE. ELIZABETH ARDEN VITAMIN C CERAMIDE CAPSULES, ADVANCED CERAMIDE CAPSULES & RETINOL CERAMIDE CAPSULES.

help visibly brighten, fight hyperpigmentation and protect skin from free radical damage.

Each capsule is super-charged with a vitamin C that is 178x more potent than traditional vitamin C**, which typically dissipates after three hours.

Using this ultra-stable vitamin C, Vitamin C Ceramide Capsules offer maximum efficacy and protection against external skin aggressors.

Vitamin C Ceramide Capsules Radiance Renewal Serum, 60 Capsules $150.00, 30 Capsules $75.00. At Elizabeth Arden counters nationwide. * Source: The NPD Group, Inc. / U.S. Prestige Beauty Total Measured Market, Skincare Product Sales, Annual 2018 ** Based on stability testing of THD Ascorbate vs. L-Ascorbic Acid

24| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

BEAUTY CONSULTANTS UPSKILL

Philippa Curnow, National Education Manager, Elizabeth Arden Australia rolled out the Elizabeth Arden Red Carpet for Beauty Consultant training which began with a freshly squeezed glass of orange juice to kick start their day the vitamin C way.

“The key point for discussion was: What makes our Vitamin C stand out from the rest? There has been a resurgence of popularity of Vitamin C products on the market so I wanted to ensure our Beauty Consultants understood that all Vitamin Cs are not made equal.

Vitamin C can be an unstable antioxidant ingredient if not delivered correctly.

Elizabeth Arden Vitamin C Ceramide Capsules use an ultra-stable form of Vitamin C called Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDA). This Vitamin C penetrates the skin barrier more effectively than the traditional L-Ascorbic Acid (this is the most commonly found Vitamin C in serums) which means we have the most potent form of Vitamin C in our formula. This gives our Beauty Consultants confidence that we are using the most efficacious and on-trend ingredient.

At Elizabeth Arden we continue to be the leader of the capsule delivery system. The key facts we revisited were our capsules are PURE, POTENT and PRECISE, fragrance free and biodegradable. Now with the addition of the new Vitamin C capsule we have the option for a capsule prescription for our customers, mixing and matching to suit her concerns.

Nowadays our customer has a skincare wardrobe. Understanding their needs so we can give exceptional service was the focus of our practical activities.

The Beauty Consultants also have a 60-piece product to enjoy the Vitamin C glow for themselves!”

5 minutes with...

ZOË FOSTER BLAKE BEAUTY WRITER TO BRAND DEVELOPER. WHY START A SKINCARE RANGE?

As a beauty editor, blogger and writing Amazinger Face, it had been my job to decode skincare products, application, science and marketing and make it accessible for the consumer - who was utterly baffled by it all. I wanted to do that for them in a skincare range. I saw a gap for an uncomplicated, effective, useful, clean and affordable range that was relatable and reliable, and made people feel confident looking after their skin, because they felt competent with these products. And, FUN. It had to be fun. Skincare takes itself far too seriously.

HOW DID YOU START TO TAKE YOUR DREAM AND MAKE IT A REALITY?

It never was my dream, funnily enough. I was quite happy writing books! My friend Megan Larsen, founder of Sodashi, suggested I create my own brand back in 2012, then generously provided not only a sounding board but invaluable advice when it came to ensuring my formulations had integrity, purity and that they, you know, worked. In 2013 Go-To was founded. I chose three shareholders to begin with, each of whom brought essential skills to the company: digital, formulating, and logistics/management. I could not have done it without them.

WHAT DRIVES YOU TO STAY HANDS-ON WITH GO-TO?

Zoë Foster Blake’s career includes the Beauty Editor title at Cosmopolitan, becoming Beauty Director and including Harper’s BAZAAR in her remit, progressing to Editor in Chief of beauty website PRIMPED.com.au. This powerhouse Boss WOMAN then launched a skincare company.

Nicci Herrera chats with Zoe to pick her entrepreneurial brain.

26| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

Chiefly it’s because I enjoy it enormously and feel very driven to keep doing and making better things in my role as founder, and daily as CCO. Second, I’m an unashamed perfectionist, and the idea of anyone else being in control breaks me into a sweat. Third, I feel a huge responsibility to our customers to ensure that everything they buy does what it says it will, and they feel confident choosing GoTo to look after them. Finally, we now have 40 staff across Sydney, Melbourne and NZ. These are my people, my ambassadors, my magicians, the ones who chose to work with us, and help us grow.

Keeping these guys enthusiastic and passionate about Go-To and Gro-To as we scale is a new challenge I’m sinking my fangs into.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP THREE TIPS FOR CREATING A SKINCARE RANGE?

Do what you want. I mean this in a literal sense: make or do a thing that you personally believe is missing from the world or market, but which you would like to exist, and which you believe other people will see value in.

5 MINUTES WITH...

Don’t get caught up in the keeping-up-with game.

Newness is nice, but not at the cost of your product quality or company values.

Honour your customer. She or he is trusting you with her face, and with her money - take that responsibility seriously.

GO-TO IS NOW IN MECCA. WHAT ARE THE KEY MILESTONES ALREADY ACHIEVED AND SOME BIGGIES ON THE FORWARD PLANS?

Launching into Mecca has been brilliant. I am a huge fan of the brand and the business, and they are caretaking us so beautifully. It gives our loyal customers another touch point, and for those unlikely to shop online, a very glamorous and specialised avenue into the brand. Launching into US Sephora last year was exciting, but as anyone diving into the US as a small Aussie brand knows it’s gonna take work. And we’ve just launched Gro-To, our babies and kids skincare line. So, if you’re choosing clean skincare for yourself, we now give you the opportunity to choose that for your children, too.

LASTLY WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE GO-TO PRODUCT AND WHY?

Face Hero. She’s our jewel in the crown. If your skin is being bitchy or is irritated or angry, or you’re post-procedure, or flaky and dry: Face Hero will fix it. It nourishes, protects, soothes, revitalises, and is loaded with essential fatty acids, vitamins and antioxidants, and helps every skin type, age, and problem. She is totally our gateway product, and I adore her.

CHECK OUT MORE FROM ZOË AND HER GROWING BRANDS AT: GOTOSKINCARE.COM

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |27

For stocklist enquires please email mal.mcneilly@potterandmoore.com or call Mal McNeilly 0409934980.

It’s October and the sales season starts now! From Black Friday to Boxing Day, and everything in-between, the next few months are definitely a sales highlight.

Make sure you’ve got new and exciting limited editions + customer favs to ensure your most successful quarter. Here’s what’s on the shopping list from Chemcorp International brands.

SheaMoisture’s range of hair, skin and body care make the perfect gift.

Each range has a line-up of companion products designed to work together to delivery the very best results.

SheaMoisture products are natural, organic and sustainably-produced goodness – made with love.

NO SULFATES NO PARABENS NO MINERAL OIL NO PHTHALATES NO PROPYLENE GLYCOL

It’s definitely the time of year when customers really lash out.

It starts with Spring racing, and ramps up into Christmas and New Year’s Eve parties.

1000HOUR lash range offers a style to suit everyone – from the natural and wispy My Selfie to the extravagant Showgirl.

Australia’s most-loved makeup brush brand = extra sales.

Choose from existing top selling sets such as the Flawless Base, Sculpting or Enhanced Eye. Or introduce the summer nights + sun kissed limited editions to capture the get-it-while-it-lasts shoppers!

FL

AW

LE

SS

BA

SE

Self-care after all that shopping, plus the perfect gift too!

The Spascriptions range will let you take advantage of the boom in face masks, but with something a little different.

Sold in packs and pots, the Spascriptions range offers quality ingredients, and the latest skincare technologies, at an affordable price point.

Inspiring beautiful inside & out To find out more about these ranges please call 02 95260777

c hem cor p . com . a u

01.

A perfume museum in pages…

Perfume Legends II is published!

Perfume Legends revolutionised perfumery in 1996. Never before had perfumers spoken openly about their work and the sources of their inspiration.

Now, 23 years later, Michael Edwards has updated his cult book with new research, stunning images and eight new legends.

02.

01. MICHAEL PRESENTS… 02. URI FERSTER – FROSTBLAND, ANDREA FERRARI – ESPRIT, MICHAEL AND SALLY DESANCIC – CORE METRICS

03. MICHAEL CHATS WITH PETER PLAYFORD – PUIG/PACO RABANNE. ALSO SEEN HERE: NICK SMART – AGENCE DE PARFUMS

Michael Edwards is the author not only of Perfume Legends and Perfume Legends II but also since 1984 of the annual Fragrances of the World reference books. Dubbed “the perfume experts’ expert” by Evelyn Lauder, he is considered the world’s leading authority on fragrance classification.

Michael returned to Sydney to launch Perfume Legends II, back to where he started over 35 years ago. The ‘boy’ from Oz sat down with us to answer questions about his work and Perfume Legends II.

BEFORE PERFUME LEGENDS IN 1996, THERE WERE NO BOOKS IN WHICH PERFUMERS SPOKE ABOUT THEIR WORK. HOW DID YOU PERSUADE THEM TO TALK?

Today, perfumers are stars but then they were invisible. I found though that they were willing to talk about their creations.

I had the fortune to interest two masters in the project. One was Guy Robert, then president of the French Society of

32| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

Perfumers, who became my mentor, a close friend and for the last years of his life, the technical consultant for my Fragrances of the World guidebook. The second was Edmond Roudnitska, the legendary perfumer whose masterpieces - Diorella, Diorissimo and Eau Sauvage - changed the architecture of perfumery. Without their help and introductions, many of the people to whom I spoke would probably not have agreed to meet with me. In all, I interviewed some 160 people, perfumers and bottle designers, the heads of Houses and couturiers.

03.

WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO UPDATE THE BOOK NOW?

Because Perfume Legends is a literary museum that traces the evolution of French perfumery.

THERE ARE LOTS OF STORIES ABOUT THE NAME OF NO.5. THEY CAN’T ALL BE TRUE. HOW DID COCO CHANEL COME UP WITH THE NAME?

Perfumer Ernest Beaux presented Coco Chanel with 10 perfumes in two series: 1 to 5 and 20 to 24. “From these she chose numbers 20, 21, 22 and, most famously, number 5,” he said. “For the one labelled Number 5, I asked ‘What name should be given to it?’ Mlle Chanel replied, ‘I present my dress collection on the 5th of May, so we’ll leave the number with which it’s labelled, and this number 5 will bring it good luck.’”

BOOK LAUNCH

bible. So I updated it each year.

In 1988, Nordstrom, the upscale American department store, discovered it. In 1991, at their request, I added men’s fragrances and in 1993, niche fragrances.

We make no charge for listing new fragrances. Our impartiality and independence give us the credibility to work with all the brands and perfumers.

HAVING TRACKED AND MATCHED TENS OF THOUSANDS OF FRAGRANCES FROM AROUND THE WORLD FOR MORE THAN THREE DECADES, WHAT DO YOU THINK MAKES A PERFUME LEGENDARY?

of their favourite fragrances will invariably belong to the same fragrance family. The families hold the key to everyone’s likes and dislikes. They make it so much easier to select the fragrances that customers are most likely to enjoy.

I was convinced that a fragrance guide would be a useful tool for consultants but the only reference available was a very technical listing from the French Society of Perfumers. So I created one.

It worked. Consultants called it their

For both Perfume Legends and Perfume Legends II I worked on the premise that all ‘legends’ had to have an accord so innovative that it inspired other compositions; an impact so profound that it shaped a trend; and an appeal likely to transcend the whims of fashion. Many launch but few become a legend.

ABOUT 80% OF THE WORDS IN THE BOOK COME FROM THE PEOPLE WHO WERE DIRECTLY INVOLVED IN THE CREATION OF THESE LEGENDS; YOU INTERVIEWED THEM OR YOU LOOKED AT INTERVIEWS THEY GAVE IF THEY HAVE SINCE PASSED ON. WHAT’S AN EXAMPLE OF A QUOTE THAT STOOD OUT TO YOU?

Maurice Roger, Dior’s legendary president who launched Poison and Fahrenheit, told me that “Perfume is substance and spirit.

It must be a story, a myth, long before people wear it. If you don’t have noise and word-of-mouth, it doesn’t work, it has no meaning - it’s just business.”

IN ADDITION TO PERFUME LEGENDS II, YOU ARE LAUNCHING ANOTHER BOOK, THE 33RD EDITION OF YOUR FRAGRANCES OF THE WORLD REFERENCE GUIDE. HOW DID THE GUIDE START?

By accident. Back in the early 1980s, the problems we faced were no different to now. “Trying to find the right fragrance is almost as hard as finding the right man,” stated Allure magazine.

People assume that there is no logic in their choice of fragrances yet two or more

order the books Perfume Legends II and the 33rd edition of the Fragrances of the World book are now available for purchase and esprit readers are offered a 10% discount.

Visit www.perfumelegends.com and use the promo code ESP19.

For more information about Michael Edwards and his work, visit www.fragrancesoftheworld.com OFFICIALLY LAUNCHED Michael hosted two brekkie events for media and industry guests to read some snippets from the book and explain how he accessed only authenticated stories. From face-to-face interviews with the legendary perfumers and months of deep research, Michael can say with his hand on his heart, these stories of each legendary fragrance’s creation is the real deal. The featured 52 fragrances have changed the world of perfumery.

For more social images see www.espritmagazineaustralia.com.au

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |33

INDUSTRY NEWS

Beauty Hack

The Heat Group shares its cyber-attack experience

34| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

INDUSTRY NEWS

One of Australia’s leading beauty and wellness distribution companies, The Heat Group recently discovered that when it comes to hacks, it isn’t always pretty. Here Heat shares its recent experience of falling victim to cyber-crime, and some important tips to help you prepare – for when, not if, a hacking attempt happens to you.

GILLIAN FRANKLIN - MANAGING DIRECTOR OF THE HEAT GROUP

It was like something out of a spy movie. A member of Heat’s Retail Services team had attempted to log on to her computer on a Sunday afternoon, and found she couldn’t access any files on the server. A frantic call to the I.T. helpdesk led to the discovery that the business had been hacked – and that ALL business-critical files were either encrypted or removed completely.

Heat held an emergency meeting on the same day, and it was discovered that the hackers wanted a ransom to be paid, in the tens of thousands of dollars, in order to release the files. However, the cost of the ransom paled in significance when compared with the impact on the business, as invoices couldn’t be generated.

Heat effectively couldn’t trade, costing the company millions of dollars.

A BUSINESS’ WORST NIGHTMARE

“It was every business’ worst nightmare come to life”, explains Managing Director of The Heat Group, Gillian Franklin. The hack occurred in the very same week that both Toyota and the Melbourne Heart Clinic (part of Cabrini Hospital) were hit by a very similar type of hack.

It was Heat’s first cyber-attack after 19 years of trading. They knew they had to act quickly.

Franklin adds: “We sought help from the Australian Cyber Security Centre, but unfortunately their main piece of advice

was to simply not pay the ransom, without saying what we should do to increase our chances of getting our files and systems back up and running.

PwC offered more constructive advice, such as to set up a new email address to communicate with the hackers from, and to not pay without proof of recovery.

“The hackers communicated via email, and it would take twenty-four hours to receive an email with only one sentence in it: “Pay the bitcoin ransom”. We would reply saying we would pay the ransom only once we’d received proof of recovery of our files, and their reply was “proof after payment”. This was deemed too risky due to all the stories of companies paying the ransom, and then the hackers disappearing.

“Heat ended up offering to pay the ransom if they could replace our files, but the hackers didn’t reply, possibly because the hackers had made some mistakes and couldn’t replace or decrypt all the files. In the end, due to the amount of data that had been deleted rather than encrypted, I.T. Manager David Stepancic decided to focus the team’s efforts and resources on file recovery”.

CRISIS RECOVERY

The crisis recovery team consisted of the Heat team, PwC, and Heat’s external I.T. provider Greenlight, who all worked tirelessly to help restore trading. Franklin

adds: “Our I.T. team members told me they felt like they had aged ten years in a week”.

• Within 4 hours of discovering the attack they had identified the type of attack, isolated infected machines from the main network, locked down the firewall via strict access rules and changed passwords.

• Within 24 hours they had created a new server environment to restore and rebuild the damaged servers.

• By the end of the first week, most people within the organisation had access to their files. Almost 90% of their systems have been returned to normal.

Once this work was completed, the ongoing reporting and compliance requirements were extremely onerous on the company.

IN SUMMARY

Looking back, the experience shook the Heat team but also made them stronger and showed just how much could be achieved when you have fantastic people working together to solve problems.

“We had the expertise, resilience and resourcefulness of the Heat team and our supporters, so we were able to overcome it”, adds Franklin. “The reality is that unfortunately cyber-attacks are becoming more and more common today, and if major organisations like Toyota and Pepsi can be vulnerable, we all need to learn from this and be on the watch out.”

The hackers communicated via email, and it would take twenty-four hours to receive an email with only one sentence in it: “Pay the bitcoin ransom”

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |35

INDUSTRY NEWS

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DJs elevates beauty to 1st floor David Jones Elizabeth Street opened its re-designed Beauty and Accessories hall, now situated on the first floor. Many of the brands, formerly in the store’s Lower Ground floor, are enjoying daylight and St James’ Park views across some 2.700 sqm of elegant marbled, off-white tiles. Home to iconic and discovery beauty and fragrance, the brands have taken the opportunity to bring their counters up to state-of-the-art designs and introduce world firsts.

Walking the floor from 9.30am opening, on Day 1 (Friday 26th July) esprit Magazine Australia walked the floor with David Jones’ Rachel Duffy, General Manager Beauty, Bianca Costa, Merchandise Manager Beauty & Accessories, David Hardman, Sales Manager along with the

force of Black & White Beauty Assistants.

It was a Beauty Event attracting a flow and ebb of industry visitors and inquisitive customers. From a social morning the industry-to-customer ratio changed dramatically by lunchtime and then the customer reigned.

Every counter without exception is geared to connection, personal consultations, self-driven brand interaction, engagement, touchy-feely, “what’s in it for me” and my beautycare needs?!

What every brand wants is for the customer to share their concerns and goals and get connected with the brand’s offer and solution and for loyalty to be won over.

In this new light and airy environment staffed by the best of the best with evolved

counters that involve the customer, the scene is set. May the theatre begin, all hail to the pampering and let’s see how David Jones beauty ups the ante.

The much-anticipated ground floor beauty hall is said to open in November 2019.

For more on this story go to www.espritmagazineaustralia.com.au 01. MERCHANDISE MANAGER BEAUTY BIANCA COSTA AND ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA’S EDITOR, ANDREA FERRARI

02. MELANIE SANDSTROM (ELC, AERIN AND TOM FORD BEAUTY), DOUG MCDONALD (LA MER AND JO MALONE) AND KELLIE LIDDIARD (CLINIQUE, ARAMIS, LAB SERIES AND DESIGNER FRAGRANCES)

03. BODY & SOUL’S RHONDA RAYNER ESPRIT’S ANDREA

04. CLARINS’ GM HELEN MORENO AND CLARINS’ CEO JEROME BELLAMY

05. MARC EDWARD AGENCY’S LIZ HO - NATIONAL RETAIL MANAGER AND EDWARD KALEEL, CEO

36| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

esprit Magazine promotion PICTURED: CHRIS HACKER, FOUNDER OF HACKER DESIGN GROUP; DR GEOFFREY HEBER, FOUNDER OF ULTRACEUTICALS; JAN TRIBBEY OF THE HACKER DESIGN GROUP AND ULTRACEUTICALS CEO, KAREN WILKIN-DONACHIE

Customised skincare consultations – ULTRACEUTICALS’

CUSTOMER MISSION The challenge of communicating and engaging with customers and keeping them loyal has a very simple solution. It doesn’t involve having Wi-Fi, logging on or disappearing into the world wide web. It involves sitting down and talking face-to-face, touching their skin and listening. Ultraceuticals’ world first counter design, opened for business in David Jones’, Elizabeth Street, renovated Beauty & Accessories hall in its new home on the 1st floor.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |37

01.

Ultraceuticals, the Australian cosmeceutical skincare company, was founded by Dr Geoffrey Heber, cosmetic physician in 1998 with the goal of creating potent, effective and affordable cosmeceutical skincare products. Each Ultraceuticals product isn’t merely created - it’s scientifically tested and proven - and trialled on the people who would use it to ensure their satisfaction. This 21-year heritage was crucial to the designers who were tasked with designing the new space, formerly known as a beauty counter.

on strategy and branding whereas Jan has focused on all aspects of retail design. They both have ownership of the vision, but in a project like this one, they each have specific assignments and responsibilities based on their knowledge and experience.

Community, easy customer connection and lots of ways for the customer to interact with the products and beauty assistants on counter – this was the overriding spirit of the brief. Chris Hacker tells esprit there were three logics:

38| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

THE MATERIAL PALETTE

The material palette was very specific says Chris. “The wood is designed to be whitened oak. There are features of contrasting dark grey with black details – such as the taps – which work really well with David Jones’ own signature architecture”. Large thick frosted glass, lit from below is a key element of the design.

COUNTER DESIGN BRIEF

Chris Hacker and Jan Tribbey of the Hacker Design Group come from a background that has touched the beauty world, with award winning designs.

Significantly Chris Hacker, who previously held the role of Senior Vice President of Global Marketing and Design for Aveda, and Chief Design Officer for Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, is the current Chair of ArtCenter’s Product Design department. Meanwhile, Jan Tribbey over the last 25 years has held key design positions leading both visual merchandising and store design for some of the world’s best-known brands. At Clinique she held the role of leader for Global Retail Design Team across US and UK as well as perfumeries throughout Asia and Europe. She joined Aveda in 2002 where she supervised retail store, lifestyle salon and institute design within Aveda’s global network.

It helps that this dynamic design duo’s careers have diverged so they have different, but very complementary skills and experience. Chris has focused more

• To break out of all the white lab look that many cosmeceutical brands have • To evolve the elegance and luxury of the brand • Create intimacy “Ultraceuticals is more elegant and intimate than the typical white lab look.

There’s a lab component to the brand of course but the customer doesn’t need to see that. Here we have a higher end, warmer intimacy. There are no harsh spotlights, table lights are soft and reflect nicely on the skin and the furnishings and furniture create an easy, friendly atmosphere. More like a luxurious, residential/home interior feel and away from a typical retail feel”.

The sleek, back cabinet has a sideboard design that would look equally fitting in a high-end spa destination as it does in the Ultraceuticals sales space. The new product packaging, evolved with the design ethic of Chris and Jan minimises the lime green and removes the silver that’s been synonymous with Ultraceuticals. White with a new, elegant logo delivers a luxury styling for the products that sits appealingly, contrasting against the dark graphite grey backing of the ‘sideboard’ dresser aimed to hero the predominantly white product range.

01. THE PRODUCT DISPLAY AND STORAGE UNIT DESIGN TAKES ITS CUES FROM A HOME INTERIORS LOOK AND FEEL, EXUDING AN ACCESSIBLE AND INVITING MOOD

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02. THE ELEGANT BEAUTY ROOM PROVIDES PRIVACY FOR MORE TARGETED TREATMENTS

esprit Magazine promotion

“Light is really a material”, says Chris, “with the right light under the frosted glass it highlights the face beautifully and the products”. It’s warm, it’s engaging and one of the subtler aesthetics that encourages customer comfort and dwell time.

CUSTOMER ENGAGEMENT WITH FACIALS

One of the keys to engagement at Ultraceuticals is instore facials and the counter provides two offerings on the shop floor along with a luxury, pampering beauty room. On counter there’s the sit-down consultation table with the frosted glass and soft lighting and long, low table with soft, rounded corners. Underneath this, rounded chairs fit in and are invitingly pulled out for the customer to sink into.

This consultation island is one of many subliminal touchpoints, designed to be positioned at a low personal height, steering away from traditional retail level experiences that are usually rushed and impersonal. This has been considered for added comfort and engagement so guests can take their time to discuss their skin’s needs.

Then there’s a stand-up ’Skin Health Check’ service counter with stylish sink and tap fittings. Here the guest can have a one-on-one, targeted skincare analysis with an Ultraceuticals consultant using the Observ camera facial imaging or play with the products in their own space. There’s a display of the brand’s cornerstone products – the Treatment serums - each accompanied by a description of concern and the outcome (features & benefits) for customers to play and self-educate.

The beautiful and private Treatment Room is for more targeted treatments.

Facials are the main offer, and today’s services include hand and arm massages and invite total relaxation in a state-of-the-art massage bed. This room celebrates natural light, being on the side of the building with the wall’s breadth of windows overlooking St. James’ Park. Luxurious fabric curtains sweep across the view for privacy while fixtures and fittings are in the new house black. It’s soft and inviting and makes it easy to want to come back to. This alluring room fits with Ultraceuticals merging into a nurturing spa-with-results offer.

THE TOUCHES COUNT

The point of sale unit has the David Jones standard requirements built inside so all brands operate to one system, while the carcass was given to the Hacker designers. Jan tells esprit: “All of the wood grain is horizontal, to give a feeling of long and low”, again à la residential/ home interiors.

A quiet achiever is a pair of pillars – one higher than the other, about a meter off the floor. It’s called the Launch Pad. Positioned and designed to pull curious customers in to the Ultraceuticals space, the columns feature a new, seasonal or star, product under a glass hood. “The product will change on a monthly basis to attract customers in off the aisle”.

The overall effect of the new environment is conducive to client education and empowering each client with a greater understanding of their skin and the powerful role Ultraceuticals can play in achieving the skin results they desire.

Ultraceuticals’ Director Department Stores Channel, Filis Gattuso was the voice of the counter staff and provided invaluable direction throughout the project. Her knowledge and experience contributed to the functional aspects of fixture design as well as the layout of the shop, all the way down to the details of the drawer inserts.

Ultraceuticals CEO, Karen Wilkin-Donachie says: “We wanted it to be a very inviting and a comfortable space for people to explore the brand in a very relaxed and accessible way. The design has been carefully considered to optimise customer experience. For instance, our consultation station is not at counter height, but a lower level where people can be seated so we can give them the full benefit of a professional skin consultation and a written professionally recommended skincare regime that they can follow if they choose to. The Observ camera will also enhance the consultation by allowing a deeper diagnostic on the skin to show the guest an accurate analysis of any key skin conditions beneath the skin surface. We chose Chris and Jan as our design team for the David Jones counter because they were masterful at bringing out our brand DNA through design and doing that in a very sophisticated way. The idea is to make a design that presents the brand in a way that makes the products the hero.

To quote Leonardo da Vinci: “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication”

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |39

INDUSTRY NEWS

TERRY LITTLE, ESTEE LAUDER COMPANIES’ GENERAL MANAGER, OCEANIA TO RETIRE

The time has come to write what we knew we would be writing one day … after an exceptional 31-year career with The Estée Lauder Companies, Terry Little, General Manager, Oceania, will retire on December 31, 2019.

Terry’s distinguished career with ELC began in the United Kingdom (U.K.) when he joined the Company as an Account Executive for Aramis in 1988.

Within a short period of time, Terry was promoted to Regional Sales Manager, Aramis, followed by his appointment as National Sales Manager, Aramis in 1990.

Then, in 1995, he was named Sales Director, Estée Lauder, U.K. & Ireland.

In 2001 Terry relocated to Australia as Brand General Manager, Clinique, and settled in Sydney. In 2008, he was promoted to Managing Director, Australia, and in 2017, he expanded his role to oversee the New Zealand affiliate in order to support ELC’s growth opportunities in both markets.

Over the years, Terry has always brought strategic agility while exemplifying exceptional leadership skills.

He has striven to build and foster the culture of ELC Australia with a focus on strong team spirit, personal development and collaboration. During Terry’s tenure, the affiliate has achieved best-in-class scores for employee engagement and has been ranked on the list of “Great Places to Work” in Australia.

Terry has been recognised over the years for his fantastic leadership, most recently when he received ELC’s International General Manager of the Year Award in 2015. In addition, Terry is Vice Chair of Accord Australasia and he also sits on the board of the Look Good Feel Better organization in Australia.

Terry’s successor will be announced in the near future.

Turia Pitt is ‘strong sensitive’ for Avène Sun Care More than eight years after the horrific grass fire that left her with burns to 65 percent of her body, athlete, motivationalist, author and mother, Turia Pitt, is set to star in a new campaign for French dermo-cosmetic skincare brand, Eau Thermale Avène, promoting its range of very high protection sunscreens for sensitive skin.

The keen surfer, ultra marathoner and triathlete, who lives a relaxed beach lifestyle on the New South Wales South Coast, will appear for the third consecutive year in a digital campaign championing Avène’s SPF 50+ Sun Care range, proving that as long as its protected, her sensitive skin is no barrier to her outdoorsinspired, adventure-filled life.

“I have been using Avène products for years to soothe and protect my skin, so I was thrilled when the Sun Care range was launched in Australia,” says Turia, who discovered Avène products after visiting a burns treatment centre in France shortly after the fire. “Wearing Avène’s sunscreen means I can be outside every day, knowing I’ve got the highest SPF protection** plus water resistance*, but that I’m also taking care of my sensitive skin. I love the nongreasy formulas that apply easily and absorb quickly without leaving white marks.

Whether I’m surfing, running or just hanging out at the beach with the family, I know that Avène sunscreen has me covered,” she said.

Backed by more than 20 years of dermatological expertise for sensitive skin, Avène’s Sun Care range is water resistant*, while offering photostable formulas and tolerance for even the most sensitive skin.

The range features a Sunscreen Emulsion SPF 50+ for the face and Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50+ for both face and body; as well as two Sunscreen Sprays SPF 50+, one for adults and one specifically made for children.

All products in the Avène Sun Care feature Avène’s patented SunSitive® Protection formula, which uses an exclusive combination of ingredients and a minimum number of chemical filters to respect sensitive skin, while still offering the highest SPF protection**. The Sunscreens also contain Pretocopheryl, a photostable Vitamin E precursor and are rich in Avène Thermal Spring Water.

“Turia is known for her strength – both physically and mentally, in achieving anything she sets her mind to; for her amazing outdoor feats and for showing that her sensitive skin doesn’t restrict her choices in life. She is definitely strong sensitive!” says Laurent Saffre, Managing Director of Pierre Fabre Australia, Avène’s parent company. “She is an inspiration and we’re proud to have her as Avène’s Sun Care ambassador,” he said.

Avene is sold in pharmacies across Australia. *40 minutes. **Highest label claim allowed as per AS/NZS 2604:2012

40| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

évolis uses hair growth science for dry shampoo évolis® Professional, the first clinically validated, plant-based, topical hair loss treatment on the market providing users with dramatic reduction in hair loss and increased hair growth (after four months of regular use) used this science to create a dry shampoo. évolis STYLE + TREAT Dry Shampoo uses the brand’s established clinically validated, plant-based, topical hair loss treatment science.

Its key, and hugely important, point of difference is that it treats the scalp and follicles with FGF5 fighting botanicals which are proven to extend the hair growth cycle.

While it revives the hair style during the day or extends the life of a blowdry, its botanical actives go to work on the scalp’s follicles. It is created by hair scientists and recommended by stylists and works just as well on all hair types. Silicone free, paraben free, noncomedogenic, doesn’t clog follicles. The 5.2oz can is RRP $30.00 – available soon. esprit’s website features this and more on the broadening range of évolis hair growth range.

esprit Magazine promotion

Supercharging spring skin with

Burt’s Bees

®

As the seasons change, so should our skincare regime. It’s an opportunity for you to deepen your customer relationships. Burt’s Bees®’ new launches are designed for an effortless transition to healthy, replenished and supercharged spring skin.

Achieve glowing, fresh skin this spring with the NEW all-natural skin and lip products from Burt’s Bees®.

ROSE MICELLAR TONING WATER & TOWELETTES

Gently wipe away makeup while deeply cleansing and hydrating the skin with Burt’s Bees® NEW Rose 3-In-1 Micellar Toning Water and Micellar Cleansing Towelettes. Infused with natural ingredients like responsibly sourced Rose Water, the multitasking cleansers use micellar technology to trap and lift away dirt, oil and other impurities for a fresh and clean complexion.

RRP Rose Water $12.99 RRP Facial Towelettes $9.99

WATERMELON MOISTURISING LIP BALM

A deeply hydrating, fresh and protective lip balm packed with moisturising benefits for lips. Burt’s Bees®’ Watermelon Lip Balm has a sweet, refreshing flavour that celebrates glorious sunny afternoons and freshly sliced, perfectly ripe watermelon.

RRP $6.99

Burt’s Bees ® new products are available now at selected retailers.

Burt’s Bees is available at Priceline, Big W and independent pharmacies

LIQUID FACEMASKS

Restore and rebalance skin with Burt’s Bees®’ new facial liquid masks. Grounded in nature’s proven ability to revitalise and protect, the 99% natural formulas are made with a blend of the most purifying and nourishing superfood ingredients including Charcoal, Acai, Kakadu Plum, Beetroot and Avocado.

RRP: $22.99

Burt’s Bees® has been offering distinctive earth-friendly, 99% natural health and beauty care products for 30 years. From a beekeeper’s backyard in Maine to the leading edge of natural, Burt’s Bees knows natural body care solutions from head-to-toe.

No parabens, phthalates, petrolatum or SLS and no animal testing.

To find out more and to enquire about becoming a stockist contact your local brand representative or visit: www.burtsbees.com.au #burtsbeesaus @burtsbeesaus.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |41

INDUSTRY NEWS

01.

t a e h e h t p u g n Turni to give cancer patients an escape It was one hot Havana Night at The Star, Sydney on Friday 30th August as 500 guests from the cosmetic industry came together for the annual Dream Ball in support of the Look Good Feel Better program.

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01. DEANNA CHAPMAN - LGFB WORKSHOP ATTENDEE – AND HUBBY, LEIGH

02. DAVID BLAKELEY - CHAIRMAN OF THE CANCER PATIENTS FOUNDATION/MD CHANEL; BRONWYN CAPANNA - EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF ACCORD AND TERRY LITTLE – GM OCEANIA, ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES

03. ANDREA FERRARI – ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA, SAMEA MAKRUN – SASY ‘N SAVY, DIMITRI WEBER – GOLDFIELD & BANKS WITH NICCI HERRERA – ESPRIT MAGAZINE

04. ELISABETH KING – BUSINESS JOURNALIST, JOSEPHINE HOULIHAN – IT COSMETICS, CHRISTINE BURKE – L’ORÉAL WITH LANCÔME’S LARA SROKOWSKI AND RENAY MUA, AND OLIVIER DUVILLARD – RETAIL BEAUTY INDUSTRY VETERAN

04.

42| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

05. FLOWER GIRLS FUND-RAISING FOR LGFB: REVLON’S LAURA MIDDLETON, AMY KINGON-SMITH AND MARISA LARIA

INDUSTRY NEWS 05.

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06. LGFB PATRON, KERRI-ANNE KENNERLEY AND DAVID BLAKELEY WITH NATIONAL VOLUNTEER OF THE YEAR, LYNNE WALKER

The Dream Ball event raises vital funds that allow the Cancer Patients Foundation to provide an escape from the realities of diagnosis and treatment for cancer patients around the country, through their confidence building Look Good Feel Better workshops. As a result of this year’s evening, over $350,000 was raised ensuring 350 workshops will be fully funded for the next twelve months.

David Blakeley, Chairman of the Cancer Patients Foundation thanked the industry, saying “As vital members of our community of supporters, Look Good Feel Better can only exist with the backing of all of you in the room tonight from the cosmetic and fragrance industry and its important partners in retailing, media, publishing, and supply. We thank you not only for consistently donating the product that means our workshops can run each and every year, but for also showing your commitment to our cause by attending and making a further contribution tonight.”

With a Havana Night theme, guests were treated to salsa dancers, a mojito bar, entertainment by The Potbellez, as the charity’s Patron, Kerri-Anne Kennerley once again regaled guests as MC for the evening. The charity thanks those who attended or donated prizes and services for the evening, as well as those who

support throughout the year through stock donations, services-in-kind and by volunteering. The ongoing support over the last 29 years has meant that more than 135,000 Australians have been given the opportunity to face cancer with confidence.

07. ELEANOR PENDLETON – GRITTY PRETTY WITH KATE GILDEA – ESTEE LAUDER COMPANIES

08. THE STUDIO 10 TEAM WITH KERRI-ANNE 09. DAVID WITH METTE ENGELL – COTY AND URI FERSTER – FROSTBLAND

10. AI SAN BEAUMONT – LA PRAIRIE, JULIE STEVANJA, FOUNDER OF STYLERUNNER, LGFB’S CAROL KAVURMA AND VANESSA GAMBIN, AND ABBEY GELMI – FOX SPORTS

11. DREAM BALL 2019! HAVANA NIGHT!

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ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |43

INDUSTRY NEWS

The CBD Gold Rush

BOD AUSTRALIA OFFERS MAJOR OPPORTUNITIES FOR THE NEW SKINCARE CARE AND SUPPLEMENT GAME CHANGER

BY ELISABETH KING

The increasing use of CBD (cannabidiol) in a growing range of medical applications and OTC skincare emerged with a vengeance last year. Known for its smoothing and antiinflammatory properties, CBD has become the hero ingredient of a wide range of face masks, moisturisers, serums and hair products, particularly in the US and Europe, and was declared the trending beauty ingredient of the year by the Kline Group.

According to the global market intelligence company, 2019 is expected to witness more luxury, mass and speciality players entering into their rapidly advancing market. Kline Group reports: “With the ever-growing interest and preference toward more natural products, consumers look to expand their curiosity, turning to the advantages of cannabis as a key beneficial ingredient”.

Australia has become a hub for the CBD industry and is being hailed as the “new Canada”. The nation’s top 20 listed cannabis companies, including Bod Australia, have a market capitalisation of $1.8 billion. Over the past year, the company has gained Special Access Scheme approval for its MediCabilis oil, used to treat pain, neurological conditions and stress. Another milestone was securing an

AUSTRALIA A LEADING HUB OF CBD LIFESTYLE INDUSTRY/BEAUTY AND SKINCARE PRODUCTS TO GENERATE GLOBAL SALES OF US$25 BILLION

There’s certainly many efficacious benefits as far as skincare is concerned, says Jo Patterson, CEO of Bod Australia, the skincare and health products developer.

“CBD is a total game changer. With its significant anti-ageing and antioxidant properties and ability to improve common skin conditions such as eczema, acne and psoriasis”.

44| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

export licence to build a stronger presence in the fast-growing European market.

We see ourselves as a biotech company rooted in research, says Patterson. “The global medical cannabis market alone is expected to reach US$55.8 billion over the next five years. We started in 2014 and listed on the ASX in 2016.

Our core passion is health. Skincare is one of our major pillars, together with nutraceuticals and supplements, because of the exceptional anti-ageing properties of CBD and hemp seed oil for all skin types, including sensitive”.

The uptake of cannabis-infused skincare has been so dramatic that market forecasts are being revised just as quickly.

According to a market report in March from the Jefferies Financial Group, beauty and skincare products containing CBD will generate global sales of US$25 billion 01. JO PATTERSON – CEO BOD AUSTRALIA –

01.

BEAUTIFUL SCIENCE

02. BOD’S BEAUTIFUL SCIENCE COMES TO FRUITION

INDUSTRY NEWS

over the next decade, capturing 15 per cent of worldwide skincare sales. Leading international retailers such as Neiman Marcus, Ulta Beauty and Sephora already have retail areas dedicated to CBD beauty.

MAJOR INVESTMENT/NEW SKINCARE LAUNCHES

It’s easy to locate the trigger for what’s being called the new beauty gold rush. “CBD works with the body’s endocannabinoid system to improve the health of the skin and body naturally, says Patterson. “It is proven to boost skin hydration and reduce inflammation as it heals and treats a widespread range of skin issues, including fine lines and wrinkles. It’s also strongly linked to the clean beauty and natural/organic trends”.

In July, NewH2, the investment fund owned by the Health & Happiness Group (H&H), acquired a minority stake in Bod Australia. The Hong Kong-based global player has revenues of $2 billion and operates in 90 countries worldwide.

H&H will have the exclusive right to commercialise Bod’s nutraceuticals, skincare, hempseed oil and lifestyle products and springboard new nutraceutical and skincare brands.

We have been working in two main areas of skincare, leveraging our expertise as plant experts, says Patterson. “Our extract suppliers have been working in the sector for more than 30 years. Overseas, we will be launching a premium anti-ageing skincare line containing our CBD extract, starting with the DTC channel at first”.

In the lead-up to Christmas, Bod Australia will be launching a new skincare range in Australia featuring organic hempseed oil, which continues to gain traction in tandem with its CBD counterpart, reports US researcher Future Market Insights. We wanted to create an effective model for this market, says Patterson. “The hemp seed oil has anti-inflammatory properties, and we have blended it with manuka honey, notable for its anti-bacterial benefits. The range will have eight SKUs and include cleansers, an anti-ageing oil, body oils, an eye cream, lip balm and body wash with price points comparable to leading personal care brands”.

HUGE OPPORTUNITY FOR PHARMACY/STRONG SUPPORTER OF A REGULATED ENVIRONMENT

Bod Australia is already well-known in pharmacy for its lifestyle supplements, including Flexofytol, Bright Brains, Gut

02.

Health, Calm Mind and Happy Travels.

“We have distribution in over 1000 pharmacies through leading wholesalers API and Sigma. Natural extracts such as Flexofytol, Enterofytol and Sedistress help to reduce the symptoms of joint pain, cramps and aches and anxiety and irritability. Flexofytol, for example, is far more effective than turmeric. Bright Brains does very well, especially with uni students who experience increases in their stress levels during exam times”.

CBD and hemp seed oil have been proven to ameliorate serious conditions such as PTSD and Tourette’s Syndrome.

MediCabilis from Bod Australia also helps to relieve the symptoms of anxiety, in addition to pain, post chemotherapy nausea and vomiting. “Before Christmas we are launching a new supplement in the UK through DTC containing our proprietary CBD extract. Blended with passionflower, it offers relief from anxiety and stress”.

Following regulatory approval, the new

product would have a ready market in Australia. According to a recent report from Roy Morgan Research, the number of Australians suffering from stress, anxiety, depression and panic attacks has increased from 2.5 million in 2009 to 7.5 million this year. Stress peaks in the mid-40s but is widespread among younger generations aged 18 to 28 and 47 per cent of young Australians aged 18 to 24 report they have suffered from stress, anxiety and panic attacks.

Nutraceuticals and supplements containing CBD are beneficial for people of all ages and have cross-gender appeal, says Patterson. “Pain is also a big application, which also makes them even more of a huge opportunity for pharmacies. Pharmacists are one of the most trusted professionals in Australia and are poised to play a vital role in offering remedies containing CBD not only for pain, anxiety and stress. There are challenges, though. Overseas, there has been a flood of new CBD products of questionable quality. Keeping abreast of CBD regulations overseas and in Australia can be time-consuming and complex.

“As a market leader in the space, Bod Australia strongly supports a regulated environment”, says Patterson. “Consumers need to be assured that the products they buy are supported by clinical data and rigorous research. The future is so exciting because CBD has an enormous potential to make people’s lives better by improving their health and skin”.

Bod Australia - Key Milestones

• Bod Australia imported the first medicinal cannabis extract into Australia from Swiss natural extracts company Linnea in March last year (2018).

• The company worked in collaboration with the University of Technology in Sydney to identify a new solution to protect the skin against the effects of ageing.

• Bod Australia achieved a world first for a Phase 1 clinical trial of its sublingual wafer to deliver CBD into a patient’s bloodstream.

• Last November, the company obtained a medical export licence for the patented sublingual wafer product, driving the export of Australian-made cannabis products to international markets.

• In October (2019), BOD Australia secured a distribution deal with Priceline Pharmacy for its Mamacare pregnancy supplement through 200 of its locations nationwide.

• The company also entered an agreement with Chemist Warehouse last November for the distribution of its MediCabilis supplement, including a training program to educate pharmacists.

• In March, Belgian natural medicine manufacturer Tilman, a long time partner, signed a deal to sell Bod Australia’s cannabis ranges, NutraCabilis and MediCabilis, through pharmacies and specialty retailers in Belgium

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |45

esprit Magazine promotion

Stand and Deliver!

COLOUR BY TBN MAKES A STAND IN SMART RETAILING WITH POS THAT PERFORMS OVER AND ABOVE!

Celebrating its 10th year of creating ontrend nail and lip colours, Colour by TBN is taking its already-successful in-store presence to the next level with a new retail stand. With a surprisingly small footprint, especially when considering the amount of stock available for consumers, the stand is designed for maximum sales return off a minimum investment requirement.

Carrying 72 French Formula nail colours and 20 Vegan Lipsticks, presented beautifully, with optional LED for added impact, the stand design has been created to reduce merchandising time owing to its innovative gravity feed product display.

“We’re extremely conscious of how precious space is in-store”, says Brand Manager for CBTBN, Markeeta King. The eye-catching stand draws customers in and showcases the expansive shade range to encourage impulse sales.”

CBTBN is pharmacy’s fastest selling lip and nail brand experiencing double digit growth year-on-year, with 39% growth in 2018*. With stats such as: 1.6 million units of CBTBN sold in the last 12 months this brand is a proven pharmacy winner.

Speaking to today’s conscious consumer, all CBTBN products are 100% certified cruelty free and certified vegan.

Accessibility is core to the brand both in terms of stand navigation, dollar spend 46| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

“With stats such as: 1.6 million units of CBTBN sold in the last 12 months this brand is a proven pharmacy winner.” and merchandising configuration. The company has created a pricing structure that allows up to 100% mark-up on core lines. And there are multiple merchandising options to suit different store requirements.

Whether it’s a wall unit or free-standing option. All stands have a small footprint but deliver attractive return on space with large stores selling 12 stock turns a year and standard stores eight stock turns a year Pushing the boundaries in product development, the current trend collection ‘Modern Romance’ is a great example. It is a colour changing nail polish that alters based on the wearer’s body temperature.

Just launched is the annual holiday gifting collection - including nail polish value packs, lip kits, face & eye palettes. *based on stockist data Size matters when space is of a premium: H: 2030mm x W:500mm x D:350mm.

RRP: Nail colour AUS $2.95 | NZ $4.99; Vegan lipstick AUS $3.95 | NZ $5.99.

INDUSTRY NEWS

LUSH WINS CHAMPION IN CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE AT RETAIL AWARDS

Just do it…

SIGN UP TO ESPRIT’S WEEKLY NEWSLETTER!

INNOVATION, CREATIVITY AND LEADERSHIP HELPING RETAIL SURVIVE AND THRIVE Australia’s best retailers are using technical innovation, creativity and leadership to survive tough times in the stores, was the message highlighted at the National Retail Association’s (NRA) annual awards event in Sydney recently.

NRA CEO Dominique Lamb said the array of finalists in the 2019 National Retail Awards also demonstrated that, regardless of size, retailers were fighting back against the prevailing economic headwinds to not only survive but thrive.

Beauty took out a top award. Lush has been voted Champion in no better category than Customer Experience, an award the company is no stranger to and 100% aligned to the direction of the brand. With its heritage in ‘caring sharing kitchensink beginnings’ in 1995 in the South of England, this international brand has a laser focus on creating and delivering the most encompassing experience.

For more on Lush and the National Retail Awards go to www.espritmagazine.com.au

Hop on the esprit website and sign up for our weekly newsletter. It’s written for YOU. Retail beauty news, people and insights.

You HAVE to keep in the know… and here’s how www.espritmagazineaustralia.com.au and SIGN UP for the newsletter

Kiehl’s joins Mecca

KIEHL’S JOINS THE RANKS AT MECCA AND MECCA MAXIMA

48| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

Kiehl’s has launched into 31 Mecca and Mecca Maxima stores with an edited range of best sellers, joining the Australian retailer’s stable of cult brands.

With a 157-year heritage in formulating and selling pharmacy skin and hair products, the New York apothecary, Kiehl’s Since 1851 brand cracked customer service decades ago with practices that now define our service oriented retail beauty industry.

With stats such as ‘one moisturiser sold every six seconds, and a toner every 12 seconds around the world’, Kiehl’s can claim the title, Original It Brand.

Its ground-breaking (at the time) and extensive background led to cosmetic, pharmaceutical, herbal and medicinal knowledge that has advanced through the generations for nature inspired, scientifically proven formulas that are results-driven for visibly healthier looking skin and hair.

Pioneers in the beauty industry in product sampling and proudly listing ingredients on their product labels, Kiehl’s sought to help customers make more informed, confident decisions that led to the tried, tested and trusted reputation the brand now upholds.

esprit Magazine promotion

Recycle On Us™ with

Burt’s Bees For over thirty years, Burt’s Bees® has been committed to protecting the beauty, wisdom and power of nature – and now, through the Burt’s Bees Recycle On Us™ program, Australians can recycle any and all Burt’s Bees packaging nationwide.

In partnership with TerraCycle®, the world’s leader in the collection and repurposing of complex waste streams, Australians can collect and ship their Burt’s Bees packaging to TerraCycle free of charge, while also earning donations for the school or charity of their choice.

HOW TO GET INVOLVED

Participation in the Burt’s Bees Recycle On Us™ is simple: sign up online, through TerraCycle or Burt’s Bees program websites, and mail in your empty Burt’s Bees packaging using a prepaid shipping label.

Collected packaging is cleaned, sorted and melted into hard plastic that can be remoulded to make new recycled products

such as garden beds, park benches and even playgrounds.

Finally, choose the charity or school from the list provided to receive a donation on your behalf !

See the picture here for what customers can send in through this program. Then, when you are finished using a Burt’s Bees product, send its packaging to TerraCycle to be recycled.

To learn more about the Burt’s Bees Recycle On Us Program, please visit: www.burtsbees.com.au/recycleonus To learn more about TerraCycle, please visit: www.terracycle.com/en-AU

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |49

INDUSTRY NEWS

01.

CHLOE’S LASH FOR THE FANS Eylure, marketed by McPherson’s in Australia, has created its first Australian collaboration and made the smart move of teaming up with beauty’s engaging Aussie girl, Chloe Morello. The Loved By Chloe Morello Edit is a neat partnership that speaks to customers wanting the task of choosing a great lash to be simplified – in the spirit of, “if Chloe loves it, it’s good enough for me”. Loved By Chloe Morello Edit Lashes are exclusively at Priceline.

Featuring four of Chloe’s fave Eylure lash styles, from a pretty, natural and everyday lash, to a glam weekend style, these pack redesigns selected by Chloe deliver a fashionable lash wardrobe that covers all occasions.

“I have loved Eylure Lashes for so long,” says Chloe. “I love dramatic eyelashes but I also love very wearable, everyday lashes.

I really wanted this edit to cover all bases, with some really pretty, natural, everyday lashes to easy-to-wear but glam lashes for smokey eye looks and weekends.”

For drawing eye-attention at the weekend, Chloe suggests No. 141 On Point Lashes. “I just love the way they are so wispy and bring any look to another level”, says Chloe. With their luxuriously long finish, these lashes are a good fit for weekend style, giving a little more attention to the eyes.

For the winged-eye look, Chloe loves the Flashing Lights No.121 Lashes. With their tapered edge, these super silky lashes give an eye-opening effect. Chloe says: “I love winged eyes and when I wear these it’s almost like I don’t need to wear winged eye liner because the lashes do the work for me, they are so pretty!”

02.

01. CHLOE WORKS ON THE EYLURE SHOOT 02. EYLURE’S LOVED BY CHLOE MORELLO EDIT LASHES ARE EXCLUSIVELY AT PRICELINE

Feminine and flirty, the Stargazing No.149 is Eylure’s go-to lash for a fun Saturday. The staggered, spikey finish makes them dramatic and bold but with a natural look. Their versatility is one of the reasons they’re Chloe’s favourites. This is the lash for pairing with a red lip.

Long and fluttery, Girl Next Door No. 117 is Eylure’s most popular lash – and, then, no surprise it’s one of Chloe favourites, too. The flexible invisible band helps to keep these lightweight and wispy lashes looking natural while also being comfortable to wear. Chloe says: “117’s are perfect to amp up an everyday look…and they fit to almost anyone’s eye shape!”

Chloe hostd a media event to celebrate this collaboration.

For more on her visit see www.espritmagazineaustralia.com.au

Inspiring the Pro in makeup junkies

NYX Professional Makeup, the L’Oréal-owned cosmetics brand from Los Angeles, has developed a merchandising unit to work its magic in store. The new bespoke unit will roll out to 194 Priceline stores this October and will endeavour to take pro makeup to the masses.

Encouraging product discovery, makeup application and educating on what’s hot, the new unit represents NYX’s “elevated brand expression to inspire all makeup junkies to be their own Pro”, the brand tells esprit. “Ultimately our mission is to inspire proud artistry for all, with love from LA – and always cruelty free”.

The unit features a Best Rated products section and a sit-down, pro artistry area with halo light. “NYX Professional Makeup is brave, bold and serving up trends at an affordable price point. Straight out of Los Angeles, our brand celebrates individualism and the energy of the creative spirit”.

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Natural Evolution – The Australian Natural Beauty Co Covers All Bases and Price Levels from Vanessa Megan™ to Private Label

by Elisabeth King

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |51

Ten years ago, when Vanessa Gray launched the Vanessa Megan™ brand, a leading pioneer of Australian certified organic skincare, naturally-based beauty was regarded as a niche category. Today, fueled by the power of social media and consumer demand for sustainability and transparency, natural and organic skincare is the preferred choice of 49 per cent of US facial skincare users aged 18 to 34, reports the NPD Group. In Australia, 46 per cent of women look for cruelty-free beauty products, says Roy Morgan Research.

Skincare dominates the natural beauty market worldwide, accounting for over 30 per cent of sales and revenues of US$10.31 billion in 2018. By 2025, the sector is expected to reach a value of US$48.04 billion, reveals Grand View Research.

Competition has become fierce and international data trackers such as Nielsen and Mintel believe that the brands that will be the most successful going forward will forge emotional connections with their customers, leverage natural and clean beauty formulas and increasingly use digital tools and platforms to grow their business.

Strong Heritage/No Compromise on Efficacy Gray has not only evolved with the maturity of the natural beauty category. As Founder and CEO of The Australian Natural Beauty Co, the parent company of Vanessa Megan™, Liar™, Clean Skin Organics™ and the 4th Layer™ private label brand, she has all the parameters and price levels covered as she takes the portfolio to the next level. She began studying the efficacy of natural ingredients nearly 20 years ago and her formulations and understanding of bio-chemistry has led to the creation of

award-winning products that match the performance of mainstream skincare brands.

I grew up on a farm and I’ve always had a deep interest in herbs and plants, says Gray. “My best friend Mel inspired the birth of the Vanessa Megan™ brand with her belief - You should never put anything on your skin that you wouldn’t eat. In 2008, I started a stall at Bondi Markets with nine products and within two weeks customers were making requests. The brand has grown dramatically over the past 10 years, but our principles, ethics and transparency have stayed the same. Only now we work with the latest scientifically proven organic and natural actives and spend months researching and formulating each product”.

Switching to natural and organic products means that consumers no longer have to compromise. In addition to delivering visible results, today’s premium products offer sophisticated textures and transformative outcomes, says Gray. “Vanessa Megan was one of 01. VANESSA GRAY LYNDON, FOUNDER AND FORMULATOR FOR THE AUSTRALIAN NATURAL BEAUTY CO

02. THE VANESSA MEGAN™ RANGE INCLUDES ALCOHOL-FREE FRAGRANCE AND 100% NATURAL SKINCARE SOLUTIONS FOR ALL SKIN TYPES, CONCERNS AND AGES

03. CLEANSKIN ORGANICS BRINGS FARM TO FACE WITH SUPERFOOD CLAY MASKS

02.

52| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

01.

the first brands to achieve Australian Certified Organic status and has become widely recognised for innovation and as a consistent winner of major awards in the natural skincare sector. Key Australian retailers such as Nourished Life and About Life, Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and Isetan in Japan are just a select number of the local and international retailers who have become stockists”.

Re-Birth of Vanessa Megan Rubberstamps Cred As Serious Skincare The 10th anniversary milestone also led to the re-birthing of the Vanessa Megan brand. “We have re-packaged the range and reduced the number of SKUs to 22”, says Gray. “The overall brand message in communications and appearance is – This is serious skincare. We have also introduced exciting, on-trend products such as Group Eleven Active Mist and Gold & Lime Caviar Coconut Membrane Sheet Mask”.

The other thing that catches the eyes of consumers on the new packaging is the bold wording of the description Advanced Organics. One of the biggest shifts of the past few years is that people of all age groups have become aware that not all natural claims can be taken at face value. This has led to a clear preference in Australia, New Zealand, the US and Europe for niche and farm-to-face brands.

The new packaging of Vanessa Megan™ clearly semaphores prestige to enhance the brand’s appeal to department stores, speciality retailers and clinics. As does the targeted and sophisticated nature of the products that address every major skin concern. “The Holy Trinity™ Daily Maintenance Routine of Petitgrain pH Balancing Cream Cleanser, Rose Hydrosol Pore Refining Toner and N.E.O (Natural Elixir Oil) 12 Hour Miracle Oil, is a fast-acting regimen that transforms the skin”, says Gray. “Made from 100 per

esprit Magazine promotion

03.

cent non-toxic ingredients, like all Vanessa Megan products, the trio is very effective for overall skin health and strengthening and also targets pigmentation. Other leading SKUs such as Prebiotic + C Skin Polishing Exfoliator Powder, Intensive Dermal Repair Moisture Balm, Marine Collagen Firming Night Cream and Super C + Bearberry Illuminating Face Serum also have an enthusiastic following. Customers are also pleased by the reasonable price points”.

Fragrance has traditionally been the Cinderella of the natural beauty category.

But over the past two years, global giants of the perfume industry such as Givaudan and IFF have been acquiring natural fragrance brands to meet the increased demand. “In March this year we launched Four natural fragrances under the Vanessa Megan brand in New York, which were picked up by UncommonGoods, the leading US online and catalogue retailer”, says Gray. “Called Monarch, Liliquoi, Wild Wøud and Harvest, they are premium aromatic fragrances made from 100 per cent natural and wild-grown flowers, fruits and other plants and extracts.

Free from synthetics and alcohol, they are also reasonably priced from $29.95”.

Clean Beauty Brand for the Whole Family The rise of conscious consumerism has catapulted the clean beauty trend into the mainstream. According to international researcher, Statista, the global clean beauty market is set to double to US$22 billion by 2024. Leading Australian retailers such as Mecca now offer curated collections of clean beauty brands. Overseas, Sephora

and Target have inaugurated clean beauty seals of approval.

The Australian Natural Beauty Co launched Cleanskin Organics™ last year, a quality, budget-friendly brand for face, body and hair. “It’s a great choice for pharmacy because the products are suitable for the whole family”, says Gray. “The clean, simple packaging fits well into any bathroom. We have used hero ingredients chosen for their antiseptic, healing and hydrating benefits, including cumin seed oil, shea butter, citrus limetta and sea salt.

“People are excited about daily personal care again because of its therapeutic properties and the range includes a body wash, voted number one at the 2019 Nature & Health Awards, body lotion, shampoo and conditioner, scrubs and soaks and three high performance Australian clay masks, including Organic Turmeric and Coconut. We have also launched three new 100% Australian essential oils such as Eucalyptus and Tea Tree. With price points of $19.95, the brand has been picked up

by Metcash, Australia’s leading wholesale distribution and marketing company, and appeared on Openshop, the new 24 hour shopping channel on Seven”.

Natural Alternative to Injectables/Quality Natural Private Label Liar Wrinkle Cheater™ Eye Roller Serum was launched earlier this year at COTERIE in New York, the premier global event that connects fashion and beauty brands with the who’s who of retailers, and Beauty Expo in Sydney. “There’s only one product

at the moment, but we are working on an all-over face serum and sheet mask”, says Gray. “Basically, it’s a natural alternative to injectables and has created a lot of buzz. The hero ingredients are hyaluronic acid, colloidal copper and Hipeptide™ (an oligopeptide) that helps to inhibit the muscle cell contractions that cause wrinkles.

A fun concept that is clinically proven to reduce wrinkle depth by 22% in 3 weeks, Liar Wrinkle Cheater™ is Australianmade and is also competitively priced for pharmacy at $39.99”.

Consumers worldwide have increased their spending on private label products, according to Nielsen, and have become more likely to splurge on store brands than big name brands. We launched a private label business last year called 4th Layer™, says Gray. “We chose the name because the human body has three layers of skin and the products are the fourth layer. There has been an increased demand for top quality private label products that are more trendforward and the category has kicked off its discount stigma. We have made products for a major US celebrity, homewares brands and some of Sydney’s top cosmetic surgeons. It’s the ultimate feather in our cap that leading companies and doctors recognise our expertise in innovation and the creation of natural and organic products that produce real results”.

For more information or enquiries please email global account manager and educator Ashley Elizabeth ash@a-nbc.com www.australiannaturalbeautyco.com

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |53

COMMUNITY PHARMACY Pharmacy Assistants on the Frontline

– Know Your Worth!

By Alice Vanderpol, 2018 Pharmacy Assistant of the Year

Pharmacy assistants are often on the frontline; we maintain and protect the day-to-day relationship with our customers, remember their stories, their name and encourage them to come again.

In this changing industry where customers want more from us than ever before, we have the opportunity to become even more valuable to them, the business and the pharmacy industry as a whole.

I love the idea of our profession being one that is considered ‘frontline’ work. But what does this actually mean and what does it look like? More importantly, what does it say about you as a pharmacy assistant?

More to the question - what is your value?

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PHARMACY LIFE IS LIKE A VARIETY BOX OF CHOCCIES

The job of a pharmacy assistant is exciting, challenging and comes with many responsibilities. We are the first point of contact for the general public and this in itself can be quite confronting yet thrilling at the same time! ‘Pharmacy’ life is like a box of chocolates - you never know what you’re going to get! You never know how your day will unfold and as you see that sweet old lady coming

through your doors, you don’t know if you’ll be met with a welcoming smile, or a disgruntled interrogation of questions including why her blood pressure medication is more expensive than the warehouse down the street.

I’m sure, like me, you all have your fair share of stories and interactions with customers. Good and bad. For instance, just the other week a lovely, elderly gentleman came in with a bag full of his wife’s medication. I approached him with a “Hello! How are you today?” and his response was: “I was wondering if you could dispose of my wife’s medications... she’s just passed away.” With that, he breaks down and starts crying. Immediately I offer my sympathies and condolences (meanwhile trying not to shed a tear myself !), reassuring him that we will take care of his request. More importantly, I give him my undivided attention and let him say what he needs to say. Even though I can’t fix his problem, I can help ease the pain by being empathetic, patient and understanding. These interactions break my heart, but they also give me a sense of gratitude. I’m thankful that because we are on the frontline, we get to walk the whole journey with our customers, from hellos to goodbyes. It’s something very special and unique to our (front)line of work.

PREPARATION

Being on the frontline requires us to be prepared. We need to be prepared to deal with the best and worst of people. We need to be prepared to give an answer or an ear to listen. We need to be prepared with knowledge and understanding of health concerns, medicines and products. We also need to be prepared to raise the white flag and ask for help when something is out of our scope of practice.

How can we be equipped and prepared for the frontline and add value to the customers’ experience? I believe a lot of this comes with passing your knowledge on.

KNOW YOUR WORTH

If you’ve been in the pharmacy game for a while now, I bet you’ve seen a lot and have had many interactions with many different types of customers over the years. Your experience is so valuable to the younger staff. Teaching your junior staff and new staff is extremely important in helping your team excel to be better assistants.

Stepping in and gently showing them how to handle a situation and explaining why certain procedures are done is so crucial in preparing them for the frontline. Never underestimate the value in your experience.

Upskilling and training are more tools for becoming prepared. If you aren’t confident in communicating, talk with your manager about doing a public speaking training course or something similar. Don’t know how to handle difficult situations?

Ask for training options that can help you.

Your communication style and presence on the frontline is very important when it comes to customer satisfaction. Customer satisfaction is paramount to your boss and their business.

Feel like you’re lacking in product knowledge? Jump online and start learning.

I do this constantly. If I see a product that I don’t know much about, I get online and start educating myself. Being on the frontline requires a certain amount of product knowledge; our customers need us to be as knowledgeable as possible.

Another option is to ask your employer for further education through the Pharmacy Guild, which offers an abundance of certificates and courses to help you excel on the frontline.

THE PHARMACY GUILD OF AUSTRALIA

ALICE VANDERPOL - 2018 PHARMACY GUILD OF AUSTRALIA/ MAXIGESIC PHARMACY ASSISTANT OF THE YEAR

Another way in being a valuable asset to your workplace is simply knowing your worth. Having confidence in who you are as a pharmacy assistant helps you keep believing that what you do matters. Ultimately, we form our pharmacy’s backbone and are needed to deliver high-quality care and ensure an excellent customer experience. For all we know, we may be the only face a customer sees all week. Being on the frontline makes us like family to a lot of people and when you start your day off with this in mind, it’s easy to go above and beyond what the customer expects. Take that extra step to make them feel that you understand what they are going through and that you want this to be the best experience they have ever had.

As they say, customer service starts with a smile, and as this industry changes before our very eyes, we must be reminded of the fact that there is one thing that will never change and that’s good old fashion customer service. Keep this in the forefront of your mind and you will continue to be a very valuable asset on the frontline.

CONTACT DETAILS THE PHARMACY GUILD OF AUSTRALIA (NATIONAL) LEVEL 2, 15 NATIONAL CIRCUIT, BARTON ACT 2600 PO BOX 310, FYSHWICK, ACT 2609, P: +61 2 6270 1888 F: +61 2 6270 1800 WWW.GUILD.ORG.AU

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |55

Best in Show

– Scott Lattimer of ACMUSE Talks Details of Australia’s New Premier Trade and Education Exhibition and the Growing Need for Quality Education

by Elisabeth King

When talk turns to professional makeup for movies, fashion and TV, one name leads the conversation.

The Australian College of Make-Up and Special Effects, the country’s pre-eminent college in the field, widely known by its acronymn ACMUSE. ACMUSE Founder and CEO, Scott Lattimer, is not only on top of his game, his gilt-edged network also includes industry insiders, some of Australia’s top makeup artists and international makeup stars.

From 2009 to 2017, Lattimer was a strong supporter of the International MakeUp Artists Trade Show (IMATS) in Sydney, one of the most popular global makeup and beauty shows, which currently operates in six locations around the world - Vancouver, New York, Los Angeles, Atlanta, London and Toronto. “I love the makeup and hair industry and IMATS was more of a special event than Beauty Expo. Following the last Sydney show in 2017, I felt that we needed something to fill the gap”.

THE SHOW SYDNEY - SHOWCASE FOR AUSTRALIAN AND INTERNATIONAL TALENT

The Show Sydney is on track to be a lot more than that. The inaugural two-day event will be held at the International Convention Centre Sydney (ICC) on February 8th and 9th, 2020. “It will be an annual event as Australia’s premier trade and education exhibition, celebrating the artistry of hair, beauty and special effects professionals”, says Lattimer. “A showcase for international and Australian

talent and a networking get-together for everyone from students to professionals and enthusiasts. Attendees will also get the chance to meet mentors and industry leaders and learn about new techniques and products to take their careers and interests to the next level”.

The guiding principle behind The Show Sydney is to offer something people have never seen before, says Lattimer. “There’s already a lot of anticipation because we will have Oscar and Emmy-winning makeup artists such as Brian Sipe and the head of makeup for Captain Marvel, the first femaleled superhero film from Marvel Studios.

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Rachel Montgomery, whose client list includes Ruby Rose, Damian Martin, Adam Johansen, the prosthetic makeup artist’s who were awarded and Oscar and BAFTA for Mad Max: Fury Road, Vanessa “The Skulltress” Davis and Jennifer Guerrero, the hair stylist department head whose on-screen credentials include major US TV shows such as Dancing with the Stars and How I Met Your Mother, are also major drawcards”.

There will be a strong focus on education with expert speakers, says Lattimer. “Visitors can also see the latest launches from major cosmetic companies. Brands across the board will be on show because we envisage that 60 per cent of attendees will be professionals and 40 per cent will be beauty enthusiasts. Both targeted audiences keen to see experts introduce the latest seasonal trends and preview new products and techniques to boost their makeup skills”.

esprit Magazine promotion LEADING DISTRIBUTOR OF MAKEUP AND SKINCARE

STRONG INDUSTRY RELATIONSHIPS/NEED FOR BETTER TRAINED IN-STORE STAFF

The rise of Instagram and YouTube tutorials has prompted many people to believe that anyone can be a makeup artist with little or no training, says Lattimer.

“But being a makeup artist is a very specialised job. Anyone who wants to succeed in this very competitive business must approach it with their eyes wide open.

I personally interview every student for our diploma and certificate courses to establish if they have a true commitment. Our relationships in the industry are so strong, from our work on major film productions to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Australia’s premier fashion event, because the industry knows we are so pro-focused”.

But there’s also a real need for better trained personnel at counter. The upsurge of interest among Gen Zers and Millennials, in particular, to stay on top of the latest trends they see on social media and the selfie craze has become a major sales driver, says Lattimer. “Many of our former students work for Sephora and M.A.C. Training has to be specific to sell makeup in retail, not only for daytime and evening looks but also for bridal. People who really love makeup and are confident in their skills are better at recommending products that suit each individual customer”.

Bridal makeup is booming, says Lattimer. “It’s not just the bride who wants to look her best these days. The bridesmaids, her mother and the groom’s mother do, too. Our Bridal Glamour Night Course covers 8 threehour sessions and is specially curated for those who want to work in the bridal, special events and photographic industries”.

Halloween has become our Christmas, says Lattimer. “It’s staggering what people are prepared to spend to achieve the looks they want from $25 to $2000. Many people come to our stores in Sydney and Melbourne with Instagram images and ask for advice on colours, adhesives, prosthetics and more. In recent years, we have had lines snaking up the street outside our Broadway store”.

Lattimer also runs Scotty’s Makeup and Beauty, a leading distributor and retailer of makeup, skincare, brushes and special effects products to the beauty industry for more than 20 years. “We have our flagship store in Sydney and two stores in Melbourne. Overseas, makeup artists are also trained in cosmetology because of the strong bond between skincare and makeup.

Our hero skincare brand is Embryolisse, a French pharmacy brand founded by a dermatologist in 1950. Its cult product is Lait-Créme Concentré which has been dubbed the 24-hour miracle cream.

Makeup artists all over the world swear by it because besides being a really effective moisturiser, it also restores glow and acts as a primer and makeup remover. We will be shining the spotlight on Embryolisse at The Show Sydney.

Another globally admired brand available from Scotty’s is Ben Nye, celebrating over 50 years as a must-have for Hollywood makeup artists. “Widely used in film and theatre work worldwide, it’s stayed close to its LA roots and has also become a hot favourite with regular makeup lovers”, says Lattimer. “Few makeup items can match Ben Nye’s cult Banana Powder for added glow, warmth and highlights. All the products are known for their longwearing benefits and that’s what many women are looking for these days. We are also a major supplier of brushes from leading brands such as Bdellium and SFX makeup from adhesives to sweat and tears”.

CURATED COURSES FOR ALL LEVELS/ALUMNI LIST A WHO’S WHO

With a university degree in design and applied arts, founding ACMUSE in 2003 fueled Lattimer’s creative bent. “It’s wonderful to be surrounded by like-minded people who share the same passion for makeup and special effects as I do. But whether it’s education or as a distributor and retailer, customer care and service are everything. So much has changed over the past 16 years, but I think that the opportunities for future growth in quality education have never been stronger. The Australian film industry is on a roll and standards have become very high for movie and media work and the boom in colour cosmetics and the desire for professional results from people of all ages shows no signs of slowing. Both developments have been game-changers for the professional beauty industry”.

Lattimer is especially proud of the fact that once students study at ACMUSE they become part of the family. “We offer an extensive list of work experience and find job opportunities. As Australia’s leading makeup professional makeup college, we have three accredited courses - Certificate IV in Screen and Media, Diploma of Screen and Media and Advanced Diploma of Visual Arts. There are also four nonaccredited courses available - Air Brushing Short Course, Hair Styling Night Course, Bridal Glamour Night Course, SFX 2 Day Course and Bespoke Industry Training.

I have been in education for a long time, but I am happy to say that I am just as passionate as the day I started, and our alumni list is a who’s who of Australian makeup talent”.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE SHOW The Show, 233 Broadway, Glebe NSW 2037 T. 02 9653 3706 E. tellmemore@theshowsydney.com.au

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON ACMUSE ACMUSE, 233 Broadway, Glebe NSW 2037 T. 02 9518 8003 E. administration@makeupcollege.com.au

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |57

a Real

GEM Y

ou may not know how to pronounce the name Tous, (for the uninitiated, it’s pronounced Tows), but chances are, if you’ve been to Europe you would have seen this Spanish institution and its

iconic teddy bear logo splashed around some of the region’s most exclusive shopping strips. And, if you’ve walked into a Priceline store in the last six months, you might have noticed something different gracing their shelves too: the bold, fun, youthful boxes leaping out from the shelves, like a sweetsmelling, sparkly beacon amongst the more familiar crystal cut flacons we’ve seen over the last decade. Tous has arrived.

T

he Spanish, luxury, fine jewelry brand was founded by a watchmaker in 1920 and has remained in the family – some three generations later – until this day.

Evolving from jewelry to accessories, including handbags and sunglasses, the family empire continued to expand over the years, eventually making its debut into the beauty world in 2002. It was then that they joined forces with Spanish beauty giants Perfumes y Diseño (or, PYD) to bring their brand to life via the olfactory sense. Offering an impressive 18 different fragrances sitting within five separate categories (sophisticated, premium, classic, moments and kids) there is a Tous fragrance for every life stage, and every taste, with each new addition being closely aligned with a jewelry collection launch.

The introduction of a fragrance category rounded out the brand’s offering, and people in over 80 countries worldwide could literally wear Tous all over their bodies… and their skin.

But there was one place where you couldn’t wear Tous: Australia. That is, until late last year when PYD joined forces with another proudly family run business – Core Metrics. Recently opening their fragrance distribution arm, Tous (and others in the PYD family) was one of the first brands to join the company, offering Core Metrics exclusive distribution within Australia. With the support of Priceline, Tous fragrance has exploded onto the scene here in Oz, already finding its way into the hearts, and beauty cupboards of thousands nationwide. Something which comes as no surprise to those in the fragrance industry. What makes the Tous line so special is the same attention to detail, with a focus on offering a complete and unique package paid to every single fragrance, in the very same way that each piece of jewelry is crafted. With Tous it goes well beyond the scent. The box, the bottle – even the naming of each product – is carefully considered and each is produced as a true collaboration with the Tous family.

The result is a high quality scent that ticks

all the boxes…and what a pretty box it is. Bright, bold, fun… and ever-youthful, Tous seems to capture the essence of Australian culture.

It’s no surprise then that the brand resonated immediately with the Australian audience who have responded with an insatiable desire to add more variants to their rapidly-growing Tous collection. The newest member of the family is Gem Power EdT, a 90mL, limited edition variant housed in a rich gem-toned bottle of green and fuschia – inspiration taken from the rare Watermelon Tourmaline stone. Capturing the power and uniqueness of the stones, the fragrance itself is a fruity floral musk with notes of exotic fruits, white flowers and white musk for a fresh, cheerful scent that is both delicate and empowering.

A deliciously feminine fragrance, it works for both the young and the young at heart with its everyday wearability.

Already walking off the shelves in Priceline, we can expect to see its sisters (and brothers… and cousins) joining it in store in the coming months.

Interested in stocking Tous and working with Core Metrics to introduce some unique Spanish luxury to your pharmacy? Contact Core Metrics on ph: 03 94844485 | e: info@core-metrics.com.au

BUSINESS esprit’s collection of industry experts and leaders share their thoughts on proven tactics and strategies to build your business and career.

BUYERS LISTS – Heinemann Duty Free Beauty Team W H AT ’ S H O T I N T H E L A B – D r D o m i n i c B u r g o n u n d e r s t a n d i n g h a i r h e a l t h … a n d g r ow t h N I C H E F R AG R A N C E N E W S – b y A i n s l i e Wa l k e r ONLINE NEWS – from Adore Beauty M Y J O U R N E Y – K a t e G i l d e a , n ow C o r p o r a t e D i g i t a l Marketing Lead at Estee Lauder Companies

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BUSINESS

Karen Murrell KAREN MURRELL ENTERPRISES From Beauty Advisor to launching her own beauty brand, Karen Murrell pioneered natural makeup before its time. esprit discovers Karen Murrell’s journey and tips to success.

I wrote a business plan and did my research. The most important thing to really make it happen and work though, is passion and love towards what you are creating.

If you do not feel a strong connection to the product you are working towards, the ambition and drive is not there to see it through.

WHAT’S THE KM POINT OF DIFFERENCE THAT HAS MADE THE BRAND SUCH A GREAT SUCCESS IN THIS COMPETITIVE SPACE?

I believe it is myself being so involved with the business from start to finish of the lipsticks being made. I make sure my brand has a story and soul to it, so when people are buying a Karen Murrell lipstick they are also buying a story and a part of me. I also ensured all the ingredients that are used in the products are natural and nourishing, as well as luxury in their look, making us stand apart from other brands.

FIVE TIPS TO STAY AHEAD OF YOUR COMPETITORS?

1-A lways find time to get into your creative zone and come up with new ways to develop and grow the product or brand.

2-H ave an amazing team working alongside you; listen to their ideas and work together to create great processes.

Your team can end up being like your family. They are a very important integral part of the business, so treat the people around you with love and respect.

3-M ake sure you understand your customers and why they choose your brand, then continue to provide them with a product they support and love. Our brand has core values and these we will never stray from. That’s important for customer loyalty.

4 - Always be researching the latest trends internationally.

Once you have been in the industry long enough you get an eye for forecasting future trends.

5-L et your love for your product reflect through your entire business model.

WITH SUCCESS COMES CHALLENGES. CAN YOU SHARE SOME TOUGH TIMES AND HOW YOU OVERCAME THEM?

Aussie NZ made

ONCE YOU IDENTIFIED A GAP IN THE MARKET, HOW DID YOU MAKE IT HAPPEN?

Being a business owner is filled with challenges and successes every day, some small and some big. I learnt throughout the years not to let the challenges get me down, because for every challenge there is a solution.

The best thing to do in these times of stress or feeling like you are taking a step backwards is to turn to your business plan and see where it could have gone wrong, then map out how and where to go from there. The challenges can actually be the best part of the process because you learn new things and create an even better product than before.

WHAT NEXT FOR KAREN MURRELL?

Some secrets cannot be shared.

I can hint to keep your eyes out early next year, however.

TWO OF THE MOST POPULAR SHADES, VIOLET MOUSSE AND BLUSHING ROSE

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |61

Buyers Lists Imagine the array of beauty products the retail beauty buyers get to see. A mesmerizing mountain of goodies great and small. And while buying stays based in business, we all have our favourites. Here we run our Series III of retail beauty buyers’ favourite products.

CHRISTIAAN HOBSON

MYRIAM HEYLENS

Heinemann Duty Free Beauty Team

CHRISTIAAN HOBSON – HEINEMANN HEAD OF PERFUME & COSMETICS

La Prairie - Platinum Rare Cellular Life-Lotion. When it comes to skincare

CAROLINA ASTUDILLO

MEI CLARKE

I am spoilt for choice. I have been very fortunate to work with the La Prairie brand for some time now and my skincare routine wouldn’t be complete without the right 1st step!

I’ve been an avid user of Skin Caviar Essence-in-Lotion for many years, a pre-serum to supercharge my routine.

Recently, I had the pleasure of having a treatment at the La Prairie ‘art of

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CAITLIN FREEMAN

luxury’ activation at Heinemann Sydney Airport where I was introduced to the new Platinum Rare Cellular Life-Lotion which is the ultimate in detoxification. With my fine lines smoothed out and elasticity improved, my skin has never looked better and I am hooked!

Maison Christian Dior - Gris Dior. We are very fortunate at Sydney Airport to have Australia’s only Maison

Orgasm Blush, their best seller, has gained ‘cult’ status in the beauty world and is sold twice every minute around the world.

Atelier Cologne. The brand was founded by two lovers who developed the world’s first cologne absolue, designed to be elegant and fresh with a long-lasting power. The unique scents are easy to wear and the personalised leather cases give an extra special touch. My favourite is the new Pacific Lime which combines bright lime and coconut for the perfect summer scent.

MYRIAM HEYLENS - BUYER

MEI CLARKE - BUYER

Gucci. In July 2019, Gucci launched its new lipstick range which we had exclusivity for in Sydney airport. Gucci is different from its competitors especially with the way the brand advertises its products using no standard models. After the success of the lipsticks range, more lipsticks are coming soon with the new metallic range.

Tom Ford. My personal favourite. The Private Blend is phenomenal with a large variety of scents. Same with the makeup; the variety of colours offered to the customers is amazing.

Tom Ford is launching a luxury new high-end scientific skincare range called Tom Ford Research. Initially there will be two products: Serum Concentrate and Crème Concentrate which feature white porcelain cacao, caffeine and gyokuru.

Sisley Black Rose Infusion Crème.

This cult favourite face cream doesn’t disappoint and is a MVP (Most Valuable Player) in my skincare regime. With extracts from four different roses, the gel formula transforms to a light, cooling sensation on contact with your skin. It hydrates like no other face cream I’ve tried, and after using this day and night for a month, my skin has never looked smoother or plumper. This cream is worth every penny in gold.

Hermes Un Jardin Sur Le Nil EdT. If you’re looking for a refreshing new summer scent, look no further than the Hermes Un Jardin Sur Le Nil EdT. The inspiration for this fragrance is “a garden full of life, generous and sparkling”, and it truly does transport you to a sweet, luscious garden by an African river. The essence of green mango is captured perfectly and grounded by hints of incense and woody notes that make this such a great unisex fragrance. This is best worn on a hot summer’s day to really appreciate the complexity of the scent.

CAROLINA ASTUDILLO - BUYER

Jurlique Rare Rose range. This range is one of my personal favourites. Not only do the products smell amazing but they suit all skincare types. They are lightweight… perfect for sensitive skin. They make your skin feel fresh, firm and hydrated.

The Gel Serum contains rose extract and dwarf lillyturf root extract to protect and strengthen the skin’s natural lipid barrier to prevent water loss. The Rosewater Balancing Mist is perfect when you need a pick-me-up during the day. It leaves your skin feeling refreshed and toned. Perfect to spray over makeup.

Clarins Double Serum. One of the best anti-ageing serums on the market. It is formulated with 21 plant extracts. It makes my skin feel firmer, radiant and hydrated.

My lines feel smoother and it feels like my skin is glowing. It also makes both my skin brighter and my pigmentation lighter!

CAITLIN FREEMAN - BUYER

Nars Orgasm Blush. Founded by François Nars, a makeup artist and photographer, Nars pushes the boundaries of beauty with unconventional campaigns through to the product names themselves.

We are very fortunate at Sydney Airport to have Australia’s only Maison Christian Dior installation. As a fashion and fragrance house Dior is my “go to” when it comes to fragrance – Christiaan Hobson

BUSINESS

Christian Dior installation. As a fashion and fragrance house Dior is my “go to” when it comes to fragrance. My alltime favourite is Gris Dior, which has evolved over time. To celebrate the 70th anniversary of the house, the emblematic Gris Montaigne perfume was renamed Gris Dior. The olfactory composition of the fragrance itself is unchanged and is dedicated to one of Christian Dior’s favourite colours, “Gris Dior”, a beautiful shade of grey.

If you’re looking for a refreshing new summer scent, look no further than the Hermes Un Jardin Sur Le Nil EdT. The inspiration for this fragrance is “a garden full of life, generous and sparkling”, and it truly does transport you to a sweet, luscious garden by an African river.

– Mei Clarke ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |63

What’s hot in

the Lab

Dr Dominic Burg is esprit Magazine Australia’s latest R&D guru – Chief Scientist for pioneering hair and scalp health leaders évolis®. Here Dominic brings us some insights into what’s hot in the lab and why.

Understanding hair health – it starts and ends with the follicles Hair is an important component of personal style and identity. The care and styling of our hair is central to our grooming routines, but the sobering reality is that all the time and money we are spending is being directed towards what is essentially a dead fibre.

T

he hair we see on our heads is made up of dead cells that have filled themselves up with proteins known as keratins, forming bundles of long fibres arranged into what we all know as hair. Almost all haircare products, treatments and haircare routines are focussed on treatment or modification of the dead hair fibre, and in reality, many of these are actually damaging to the hair itself.

There is surprisingly little that can be done to improve the hair fibre once it has grown and unfortunately for many of us, due to age or genetics, the hair that grows in the first place may not be providing a robust scaffold to begin with. So, what governs the growth and quality of the hair in the first place? The answer lies in the hair follicles.

The cycle of hair life Hair follicles are actually little organs – much like you would consider any

other organ in the body. The human scalp houses around 100,000150,000 of these organs, working hard to produce hair fibres. What makes hair follicles so special is their unique growth pattern. Hair grows in a cycle of growth, rest, fall and then regeneration collectively known as the “hair cycle”. Each hair follicle repeats this process many times throughout your life, falling out and then forming a new hair follicle from scratch every seven years or so.

Each hair follicle does this in its own time, out of sync with other follicles, continually shedding and renewing follicles at a rate of around 50-100 every day.

Regenerating a completely new organ from scratch and then progressing through a growth cycle is a complex dance involving stem cells, growth factors, cytokines, hormones and a variety of other factors that build and diffuse in the scalp microenvironment surrounding each follicle. Like anything complex it can be quite easy to upset the balance and go awry, and when this happens – hair loss and hair changes occur.

A large number of internal and external factors can contribute to hair cycle dysfunction and hair change, including diet, hormones, stress, medications, pregnancy and childbirth, genetics and age. Almost everybody will experience changes in hair cycle function as they get older.

Understanding the process of hair growth and how it changes is key to developing treatments to prevent

64| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

hair problems such as hair loss and hair ageing.

A key common factor in all hair changes, be it in hair loss, thinning or ageing is a shortening of the growth phase of the hair cycle, meaning more hair is falling and resting. A short hair cycle is usually also accompanied by slower growth and hair that is finer and less substantial. However, apart from observing the overall shortening of the hair cycle, we know surprisingly little about the molecular changes in the hair cycle and their biological control. This is partially due to the complexity of the system and also due to the difficulty studying hair follicles in the lab. An additional challenge that we face when developing treatments for hair follicles and hair growth is that many of the key components identified thus far are critical for other systems in the body, meaning that targeting them may produce unwanted side effects.

Fibroblast growth factors One area of keen interest for those of us in the lab studying hair cycle biology is a family of proteins known as the fibroblast growth factors (FGF).

The FGF family contains at least 23 proteins that have critical roles in development, growth and cell biology and at least six, that we know of, are important in hair follicle biology.

FGF1, 2, 7, 10 and FGF20 are thought to be involved in hair follicle growth, while FGF5 and FGF18 are negative regulatory components involved in stopping growth, initiating

BUSINESS the rest and fall phase of the hair growth cycle. The majority of FGFs have critical roles throughout the body making them poor targets for treatment, with the exception of FGF5 and FGF7: these two members are predominately known to act in the hair growth cycle with very little action elsewhere in adults.

hair loss and ageing, FGF5 is an important target for treatment for both hair loss and age-related changes.

One of the most attractive features of FGF5 is that it has no other role in the body outside of stopping hair growth – animals and humans naturally deficient in FGF5 are healthy with long, thick, fast growing hair!

The molecule FGF7 is an initiator and promotor of hair growth, helping hair follicles enter into the growth phase and potentially boosting their activity.

The problem with developing a treatment with or around FGF7 is you either have to treat with a recombinant protein (expensive and challenging), synthesise a mimetic, or try to boost the levels of the protein by stimulating the body to express more of it than normal, which is also tricky.

The Australian/Japanese company Advangen has been at the forefront of FGF5-blocking research for over 10 years and has developed sophisticated cell-based assays to measure FGF5 activity and assess potential blockers. The technology has allowed them to look among nature for potent FGF5 blockers. On the back of resulting formulations, Advangen has performed a number of clinical studies showing that blocking FGF5 reduces hair loss and results in thicker and healthier hair. On the back of intensive research the company has developed its unique FGF5 blocking évolis® formulations that represent a genuine, scientifically backed anti-ageing and hair loss solution that delivers your best hair by going to the source of hair growth – the follicles.

Shiseido has been successful in the latter after their patented discovery that adenosine promotes FGF7 expression. The company produces a range of products in Japan but have had little penetration elsewhere. So far, few have been able to identify alternate FGF7 stimulators.

The alternative to promoting growth with FGF7 is targeting FGF5, a negative molecule in the hair cycle that stops hair growth. Numerous scientific studies have shown that FGF5 is the critical, terminal step in stopping growth and promoting hair fall. Several large genetic studies have also highlighted that it is an important genetic component in hair loss. As shortening of the hair growth phase and premature hair fall is critical in

We still have a lot to learn about hair growth and hair biology, but to us in the lab this means that there are still a lot of exciting discoveries to be made, and on the back of these, new technology, new treatments and better ways to care for our hair.

Retailers interested in stocking évolis® email Gary McCaw – Sales Director mccaw@advangen.com.au www.evolisproducts.com.au

Dr Dominic Burg Biochemist and Systems Biologist Dr Dominic Burg is a biochemist and systems biologist with expertise in hair and scalp biology, particularly hair cycle signaling. An accomplished science communicator with a career spanning academic research and the private sector, Dr Burg is the Chief Scientist for pioneering hair and scalp health leaders évolis®.

Dr Burg’s early training was in the medical sciences, focusing on microbiology and immunology, where he graduated first in his class, and equivalent to “summa cum laude”. He went on to pursue an academic career, earning his PhD in protein systems biology at the University of NSW, Sydney, before working in a number of post-doctoral roles internationally, studying the complex changes in physiology and inflammatory biology underlying various health conditions. Dominic transitioned to the private sector, with Australian Biotechnology Company Cellmid Ltd, rapidly rising to become Chief Scientist at évolis® where he has turned his expertise to the complex processes of hair and skin growth, ageing, and cycling, and how these are reflections of overall health and well-being.

Dr Burg has published numerous scientific papers and is a respected educator and scientific communicator, as well as a doting father.

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BUSINESS

A I N S L I E WA L K E R TA L K S

NICHE FRAGRANCE NEWS

TIME TO STOP AND SMELL THE ROSES NICHE PERFUMES! Could they help your business survive?

With department stores downsizing, reworking their layouts and even implementing closures across Australia in recent years, for me it all feels there’s a little doom and gloom at the forefront of retail. However, the international fragrance industry is experiencing a refreshing breath of life which we may catch here in Australia if we stand to attention, largely stemming from niche fragrance brands.

The inclusion of three niche perfumes in the recently launched, internationally acclaimed book, Perfume Legends II – French Feminine Fragrances by fragrance legend himself, Michael Edwards, (founder of Fragrances of the World) illustrates the importance of niche, holding a firm place in the history of French perfumery. In fact history has been rewritten and updated, with a touch of hindsight, when it comes to the niche perfumes featured.

• Féminité du Bois – Serge Lutens 1992 • Timbuktu - L’Artisan Parfumeur 2004 • Frédéric Malle - Portrait of a Lady 2010 Michael provides a front row seat to the magic show that is fragrance creation. He carefully curates, captures and exposes the history of the fragrance industry, “in the words of the creators - the perfumers themselves.” Reading the stories, you feel you are a fly on the wall in the very rooms where iconic “legendary” fragrances were created. We can observe creative directors and perfumers and understand their inspirations and methods of working creatively together. Without Michael this information would have been lost and never shared. The first to expose the perfumers behind fragrances, who until then resided “in the shade.” It could be said it is with thanks to his work perfumers

01.

01. AINSLIE WITH MICHAEL EDWARDS

now have their signatures on bottles and are being openly rewarded for their work.

“They were invisible before. And now they are celebrities in their own right.” Niche fragrance brands started and continue to lead this trend.

Michael is a visionary and fragrance historian. Seven years ago, I named him the “David Attenborough of perfumery” and he continues to forge ahead since

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the 1960s achieving more each year than most in their lifetime. The Osmothèque in France is the world’s only comprehensive museum of perfumes; and to me Michael’s books are like museums in the history of perfumers and perfumery.

The book is just part of the wave of niche perfumery’s reinvigoration hitting the retail industry internationally, one which should positively impact Australian consumers’ interest and therefore sales.

Michael and I discussed recently if we are ignoring and thus missing out on catching this wave. Why are we so slow to take the leap of faith into luxury and niche?

“We have been slow to realise the importance of niche in Australia. We are preoccupied with discounted mainstream and designer fragrances and struggling to survive. Department stores are not flourishing in fragrance sales. Mainstream retailers are ignoring local developments – Australian niche brands such as Naomi Goodsir and Map of the Heart are winning international awards and yet only Peony in Melbourne had the foresight to stock them”, Michael states.

One walk through department stores and boutiques illustrates niche and luxury exclusives often hidden in draws, down the back of stores or up flights of stairs.

BUSINESS

Courtesy Harrods?? where did this image come from?

02.

02. THE ELEGANCE OF EUROPEAN FRAGRANCE RETAILING

European and Middle Eastern fragrance retailer trends show niche positioned firmly up front and centre, enticing shoppers and stopping them in their tracks! “These collections should be your survival tools. They are your future!” says Michael. Luxury and niche have the power to revitalise brands like Lancôme and Gucci. Authenticity is key and niche does authenticity the best!

Designer brands are investing massively into their niche/luxury collections, such as Chanel with their Exclusifs, Gucci with Alchemy Collection and Dior Privée, for example. They are pouring their hearts and energy into them as they realise their importance for survival. Michael states: “The niche perfume industry is still enjoying double digit growth compared to poor sales across the rest of the industry”.

Does that not say it all?

Why we are holding back? Afraid of big price tags? Afraid of the energy required to sell a fragrance to someone? The consumer mindset has changed – the approach and reasons for buying fragrances has changed.

Millennials rarely own just one fragrance – they have a growing wardrobe for different occasions and are looking for something new. They read. They watch YouTube.

They know what they want. What can entice them away from their screens, out of their homes and to the stores? Perfumes cannot be smelled through their computers and handheld devices (yet). What is more fun than a real, live perfume smelling outing?!

Michael returned to Australia to launch his book where he first started out – his first workshops with Chanel and YSL were in Australia at the start of his career. He says he “came back to let retailers know there is life after problems!” He hopes Perfume Legends II and American Legends, the book he is now working on, will bring inspiration to Australian retailers, in particular looking at the importance of luxury and niche collections. “The Australian niche market has room to grow exponentially”.

Mainstream retailers are ignoring local developments – Australian niche brands such as Naomi Goodsir and Map of the Heart are winning international awards and yet only Peony in Melbourne had the foresight to stock them.

02.

Perfume Legends – French Feminine Fragrances, the original book, hit cult status years ago, becoming out of print and quadrupling in price. New fans are now getting on board with Legends II. Let’s see where this takes us down the rabbit hole and into the world of fragrance success stories!

GET IN TOUCH If you are looking for independent advice on brands to stock, do get in touch – happy to talk niche fragrance any time!

Email me at: ainslie@ainsliewalker.com

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BUSINESS

SPRING TRENDS ON LINE

BY S A R A H M U L L E N , G E N E R A L M A N AG E R – A D O R E B E A U T Y Skincare Skincare has always been the Adore Beauty heartland. We do it really well. We have an unsurpassed selection of cosmeceutical, salon and niche skincare brands and a highly trained customer service team to answer all questions asked of them or provide customers with a bespoke routine. Nothing is hotter right now than the enduring desire for flawless, glowing, hydrated skin – peaking as we turn into spring.

The key to well maintained and healthy skin is the basic, and always important, SPF. Don’t underestimate it, always use it and recommend it, none of us should leave home without it.

In addition to SPF our customers are venturing into ‘hardcore’ territory more than ever before, bulking up their basic routines with all the letter serums. A, B, C and D. Oh yep, you need them all! Morning and Night.

Scent Room Typically, a challenging product to sell online, fragrance has been especially hard to introduce to our customers in the past. How can customers experience each scent, especially if it’s a fragrance that’s new to the AU market? How do you know if you’ll like it? What are the top notes? Well, times are changing. We’ve combined a niche curated selection of high-end fragrances, a foolproof returns offer, and detailed content, and seen great success. I have one name for you - Juliette Has A Gun, distributed in Australia by Agence de Parfum. We’ve never seen a product run off our ecommerce shelves 68| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

like it. The sampler set literally has its own legs. Best thing since KFC chips. Juliette Has A Gun allows discovery before investing in a full sized 100ml bottle. Doesn’t everyone love that?

Wellness Never before have we seen inner beauty to be so trendy, and we love it. Skincare powders are enhanced with nutrients and promise to promote better skin from within. Haircare capsules are packed with vitamins to promote hair growth and support a reduction in hair loss.

But it doesn’t stop there. From Kora to WelleCo to JS Health, brands are finding injestible solutions to enhancing energy and reducing inflammation. Consumers are demanding these injestibles are vegan, vegetarian, and/or sustainably sourced. We’ve expanded the Adore Beauty wellness injestible category and there’s still more to come.

We see wellness injestibles as less of a beauty ‘shift’, and more of a complementary best friend you can’t live without.

ABOUT SARAH

With a strong fashion and cosmetics background, and passionate about product and brand, Sarah Mullen joined Adore Beauty in 2013. Sarah is now the General Manager overseeing Brands, Customer Service and Operational departments.

presents

Organiser - Cosmoprof Asia Ltd

MY JOURNEY

Kate Gildea

Corporate Digital Marketing and Communications Lead, Estée Lauder Companies

Class Act

by Elisabeth King

Kate Gildea is widely recognised in the beauty industry and media as an eloquent and engaging public speaker at events and presentations.

The Corporate Digital Marketing and Communications Lead for Estée Lauder Companies credits her poise to her education in two diverse disciplines.

“When I left school I enrolled in an Arts/Law degree at the University of Queensland, majoring in Criminology.

But after two years I realised I wanted to do something else. I was accepted into the National Actors Conservatory and also did a postgraduate course in Shakespearean Performance. Both experiences gave me the confidence and cadence for public speaking”.

Like many students, Gildea applied for a job as a Christmas casual in Myer’s Indooroopilly store. “I started in lingerie and moved to the cosmetics floor, working in General Cosmetics and then across brands represented by Cosmax, one of Australia’s leading distributors of fragrance and beauty brands. I also did acting work, including touring with the musical Oliver! Then came crunch time.

Did I want to continue acting or pursue a career in cosmetics?”

Gildea returned to university and completed a Business degree with a Major in Marketing. “I went overseas for 18 months to Europe, working as a PR intern for the Australian Tourism Commission and an HR consultant for a security firm in London. When I returned to Brisbane I resumed working in Myer for the Calvin Klein fragrance and beauty brand”.

Nicole Bowman, now General Manager of Escentials Brands, approached Gildea for the position of National Sales Coordinator for Calvin Klein in Sydney.

“Nicole was National Sales Manager at

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the time. Two weeks after I moved to Sydney, Calvin Klein also made a move to Coty. Fortunately, I got a job with the Coty Beauty division as Trade Marketing Coordinator for Rimmel, Sally Hansen and mass fragrances”.

A year later, Nicole became the National Sales Manager for ModelCo, says Gildea. “She then brought me on board as the Sales Executive for Queensland and New South Wales at ModelCo. It was great working for an Aussie brand. Nicole was a great mentor and I also learned a lot from ModelCo founder, Shelley Sullivan (née Barrett)”.

Gildea felt that it was time to put her marketing qualifications to good use.

“A marketing job came up at Parfums Christian Dior. I was interviewed by Mette Engell, then General Manager, and she asked me if I would consider doing PR, as they had another position available that she thought I would be suited to. I have always loved magazines and jumped at the chance. I took on the position of PR and Trade Marketing Coordinator for Dior in Australia and New Zealand”.

In a blast from the past development, Gildea was then contacted by Cosmax.

MY JOURNEY

“I became the PR Manager for the first beauty and fragrance company I ever worked for. The portfolio was amazing from Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana and Hugo Boss to Issey Miyake, Bulgari and Burberry. It was a sink-or-swim environment, but I had a lot of autonomy and the team was great. I loved working with (Cosmax founders) Frank Breen and Ken Mortlock, and Pam Wilson, now Marketing Director for Luxasia. I learned so much about maximising assets, the fragrance business and the power of global brands”.

Gildea stayed with Cosmax for five years. “Then out of the blue I received a call from Alice Hampton, then Communications Manager for Estée Lauder and Tom Ford Beauty. She was moving to New York to become Executive Director Global Communications for Clinique. She told me that she had canvassed industry people she trusted, and my name kept coming up. I then became Communications Manager for Estée Lauder and Tom Ford Beauty in 2013. Again, it was like coming full circle.

When I was in Year 12, I wrote a school assignment on Tom Ford’s reinvention of Gucci, so it was amazing to start working on his brand”.

Gildea helped to launch the AERIN Beauty brand in Australia. “I also gained a lot of expertise in business strategy from Emmerentia Wilding, the brand GM of Estée Lauder and Tom Ford, and now Vice President General Manager Estée Lauder and AERIN Beauty in the UK and Ireland. The opportunity to travel is one of the highlights of working for a

global company and I also liaised closely with another Australian in New York – Tina Cooke, Vice President Global Communications”.

Communications roles have changed enormously in recent years. “I shifted to my current role two years ago. I’ve always had an editorial eye and it’s been invaluable for influencer marketing.

Creating content with influencers and amplifying it has meant developing more skills. Estée Lauder is widely recognised as one of the beauty industry’s leading companies in digital and social media marketing. Two years ago, we became a global partner to Facebook and Google and Estée Lauder supported me in gaining my Google Squared Digital Marketing certification. My job allows me to draw on all my career experiences, but the parameters are constantly changing”.

Gildea believes that the best advice she can give is to build a strong reputation in every job role. “The Dior position was the only job application that I actively sought out, everything else really fell into my lap. If you are consistently good at what you do, people will notice and spread the word. I love the dynamism of the beauty industry and I am very grateful to have worked with such wonderful mentors.

Consistent, ongoing support from people you admire and respect is priceless”.

Estée Lauder is widely recognised as one of the beauty industry’s leading companies in digital and social media marketing. Two years ago, we became a global partner to Facebook and Google and Estée Lauder supported me in gaining my Google Squared Digital Marketing certification. My job allows me to draw on all my career experiences, but the parameters are constantly changing”

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BUSINESS

Collaboration for innovation in beauty and personal care

Accord partnership with Monash University

It’s a well-known saying that “two heads are better than one”.

But, did you know that businesses that collaborate on innovation are 70% more likely to create new-to-world innovations? That’s according to Dr Erol Harvey, Fellow of the Australian Academy of Technology and Engineering.

Collaboration enhances innovation in several ways.

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PICTURED: MONASH UNIVERSITY’S GREEN CHEMICAL FUTURES FACILITIES PROVIDE A WORLDCLASS HUB FOR COLLABORATION AND ARE HOME TO MANY EXCITING RESEARCH PROJECTS SUCH AS NEW CLASSES OF SUSTAINABLE SURFACTANT INGREDIENTS FOR COSMETICS AND PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS.

BUSINESS It sounds obvious, but collaboration means more brains. More brains means more ideas, more diverse but complementary perspectives and more skills coming together to work towards a common goal.

Collaboration can lead to a much larger network to draw upon for current and future projects.

Collaboration also means more stuff. More stuff could be access to a wider range of equipment or facilities through pooled resources.

There can be many positive outcomes of collaborative research: The ability to move beyond day-to-day operations and undertake blue sky, disruptive research; the creation of new chemical technologies to solve social and environmental challenges, provide enhanced sensory experiences and health benefits; mutual growth in personal knowledge and skills.

WHAT DOES THE MONASH PARTNERSHIP MEAN?

One of Accord’s primary goals is to strategically assist our Member companies to enhance their innovation capacity. A key way in which we do this is by identifying and building relationships with research institutions and hubs that are keen to work with our industry. We then facilitate regular dialogue and information sharing with these organisations.

Therefore, we are thrilled to announce that Monash University has recently become our first official Contributing Innovation Partner – formalising the relationship built between our organisations over the last few years.

Accord has been a supporter of industry-aligned Monash initiatives for many years. We contribute in an advisory capacity to the Pharmaceutical Sciences program; formerly known as Formulating Science, this is a key pathway for graduates in the beauty industry with formulation expertise.

We are also a supporter of Monash’s Chemicals and Plastics Manufacturing Innovation Network (CAPMIN), a key hub for

industry-led collaborative innovation including through industry-led PhD projects, knowledge sharing and technical/business training.

We are also supporting Monash in other future opportunities to encourage industry-university collaboration.

Other highlights of our interactions with Monash have included Accord participation at formulating science careers days, Monash presentations at Accord events on new green chemistry innovations of relevance to our industry, and regular interface between Monash and Accord members to build mutual understanding, share knowledge and explore opportunities.

Having a formal partnership now in place will ensure more opportunities for the beauty industry and academic expertise to come together, learn from each other and capitalise on each other’s skills and knowledge.

ABOUT DR JENNIFER SEMPLE

Dr Jennifer Semple is the Innovation & Education Manager at Accord Australasia Limited

ABOUT ACCORD

Accord Australasia is the peak body representing companies operating in the cosmetic, fragrance, personal care and toiletries sector – from multinationals to small Australian-owned businesses, importers to local manufacturers. www.accord.asn.au

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OUT & ABOUT

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ABOUT THE PORTRAITS COLLECTION CHAPTER 7

PENHALIGON’S PORTRAITS LAUNCH CHAPTER 7 AT HOTEL CENTENNIAL Iconic English perfume house Penhaligon’s celebrated the Australian unveiling of two new characters to its original and evocative Portraits Collection which features a ‘family’ of characters, with an exclusive media lunch at Hotel Centennial in Sydney.

Co-hosted by Penhaligon’s Australian distributor Agence de Parfum, the fragrance showcase was attended by Margaret Khoury of Fragrances of the World, together with respected journalists from The Australian Financial Review, Vogue, Harper’s BAZAAR, Elle, Marie Claire, InStyle, JONES, Qantas Magazine and Indulgence Australia.

Throughout the event, Agence de Parfum’s National Education Manager, Michael Marzano took guests on an imaginary journey through the Portraits Collection’s British aristocratic family, highlighting the inspiration and complexities behind the two latest characters; Heartless Helen and Terrible Teddy.

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The Portraits Collection is an olfactory fiction dedicated to the curious and often highly eccentric representations of the British aristocracy. Adding to this fictional story, Chapter 7 of the Portraits Collection are the tales of Heartless Helen and Terrible Teddy, with the family’s new adventures, trials and tribulations continuing to re-animate the olfactive narrative with energy and spirit.

Heartless Helen - Top Notes: Mandarin; Heart Notes: Tuberose; Base Notes: Creamy Wood, RRP Eau de Parfum (75ml) - $379.00.

Terrible Teddy - Top Notes: Incense; Heart Notes: Leather; Base Notes: Ambroxan, RRP Eau de Parfum (75ml) - $379.00.

Referencing Terrible Teddy’s love of safaris, the bottle is capped with a rhino head, which has led to a collaboration explained by Michael. He introduced special guest Sarah Dennis from The Australian Rhino Project who initiated guests on the organisation’s mission to ensure the longterm survival of rhinos in the wild. Agence de Parfum has aligned with The Australian Rhino Project for the launch of Terrible Teddy, donating 5% of Australian sale proceeds to the noteworthy cause.

The Penhaligon’s Portraits Collection is available exclusively in Australia at Agence de Parfum’s retail arm Libertine Parfumerie, at selected David Jones and Myer Galerie de Parfum boutiques, and niche perfumeries in Australia and New Zealand.

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01. ALICE MOORE - ELYSEE COLLECTIVE PR AGENCY AND MEGHA KAPOOR - INPRINT

02. MICHAEL MARZANO IN FULL FLOW OF HIS SPEECH

03. SUSAN SKELLY - FREELANCE, MARGARET KHOURY - FRAGRANCES OF THE WORLD AND LEE TULLOCH - QANTAS MAGAZINE

04. PENHALIGON’S PORTRAITS NEW CHARACTERS: TERRIBLE TEDDY & HEARTLESS HELEN

05. VALERIE BLANCHARD - AGENCE DE PARFUM WITH SARAH DENNIS - THE AUSTRALIAN RHINO PROJECT

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06. ELYSSA KOSTOPOULOS - HIGHER VIEW

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Education Retail therapy Industry Consumer

Celebration Community Inspiration Professional

Make Up | Hair | SFX | Body Painting Showcasing the latest in trend, technology, talent & technique, align your business with some of the best in class brands across tools, supplies, hair, makeup, beauty & education.

Australia’s Ultimate Professional Hair, Makeup & Beauty Event.

When

8/9 FEB 2020

Where

International Convention Centre Sydney

Showcase your brand at

The Show Sydney 2020

Register your interest today theshowsydney.com.au/exhibit-at-the-show-sydney/

OUT & ABOUT

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TRILOGY’S REIMAGINATION

MAX FACTOR AND SALLY HANSEN

Trilogy invited beauty media to discover rosehip reimagined over rosé wine and a line drawing masterclass with renowned Sydney artist Grace Choi.

Back in 2002, Trilogy pioneered premium quality rosehip oil as a natural beauty skincare ingredient launching with five products. With consumers voting with their repeated purchases, now with a worldwide audience, this iconic superseed-oil brand moves into 2020 with the introduction of Rosehip Reimagined…it’s rosehip oil, but not as we know it!

Trilogy Hydrating Jelly Mask reimagines Trilogy’s award-winning rosehip oil into a jelly – a world first in certified natural beauty. This juicy jelly-textured face mask cools skin on application. Along with the nourishing and hydrating benefits of rosehip oil and ultra-hydrating hyaluronic acid and moisture-restoring New Zealand Manuka honey. The inclusion of refreshing kawakawa extract and aloe vera juice adds an energising pick-me-up.

Trilogy Hydrating Jelly Mask user trial results showed within three weeks skin felt more revitalised, with an improvement in skin texture and firmness. RRP $31.95 (60ml).

Trilogy’s iconic Certified Organic Rosehip Oil has also been reimagined into a handbagfriendly compact 10ml roller for targeting dry

Coty Australia brands, Max Factor and Sally Hansen gathered media together for a professional product demonstration of the October launches.

Liz Kelsh, Max Factor Makeup Artist, began with lash news from Max Factor. As we’ve said before, when the beauty media go: “ooow!” it’s likely this product is going to be a winner. Well, Max Factor Lash Revival Primer got the “ooow!” Going on white, the primer’s role is to maximise volume and length while caring for lashes. With a conditioning formula featuring vitamin E and oils, lashes get a boost as its micro-fibres instantly add length to lashes. RRP $24.95.

Complementing the primer is Lash Revival Mascara, Max Factor’s first mascara infused with bamboo extract, which visibly revives lashes within four weeks of application. “Max Factor Lash Revival is the perfect everyday mascara, giving instant oomph while nourishing ingredients like bamboo extract transform the lashes over 28 days for a fuller longer lash,” says Liz. With a curved brush inspired by the shape of the eye, it gently combs lashes to create volume with no clumps.

Liz also demonstrated: Max Factor Brow Revival. With a long-lasting, waterproof and smudge-proof formula, it features a brow boost complex including a blend of oils and vitamin E designed to enhance and improve the natural brow appearance over time. RRP $22.95; and Masterpiece Nude Matte Palette, now with more intense, highly pigmented colours.

RRP $29.95. All are available from October 2019 from Priceline, Big W and Independent pharmacies.

See p98 for Sally Hansen’s Airbrush Legs Illuminator launch.

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01. TRILOGY ROSEHIP REIMAGINED MEDIA EVENT

02. NATALIE LUCAS, AND LIVIA GIANG

03. ROSEHIP REIMAGINED TRILOGY HYDRATING JELLY MASK

patches, scars, fine lines, wrinkles, eyebrows, lips and cuticles with a superfine, easily absorbed pure seed beauty oil that delivers intense nourishment and replenishment for radiantly healthy looking skin. RRP $14.95 (10ml).

Available from selected Priceline, Priceline Pharmacy, Chemist Warehouse, Myer, pharmacy and health stores.

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01. LIZ KELSH DEMONSTRATES NEW MAX FACTOR LAUNCHES

02. MAX FACTOR LASH PRIMER

78| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

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OUT & ABOUT

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SISLEY’S INCREDIBLE YEAR

KLORANE SUPERSIZES DRY SHAMPOO

Irene Robinson, General Manager Sisley welcomed beauty media to the launch of three beautiful new skincare products with the news that 2018 had been “Sisley’s best year ever” and confirmed that 2019 was on track for “incredible growth this year”.

Tonia Casswell, National Sales & Training Manager had the pleasure of demonstrating the trio of skincare delights which have all just debuted on counter now, at David Jones stores nationwide.

Sisley Velvet Sleeping Mask is the brand’s first repairing sleeping mask to comfort dry skin and leave it ultra-soothed. “Applied overnight, upon awakening the skin is relaxed and has perfectly recovered; it is stronger, nourished, revitalised, velvety and ready to face the day”. RRP $165.00, 60ml.

Sisley Radiance Foaming Cream is a multi-functional makeup remover and cleanser offering a genuine skincare experience with a creamy, airy transforming texture. “Initially a dense, lightweight foam in the hands, it transforms when applied and

Klorane super-sizes its Dry Shampoo with Oat Milk to a whopping XL 250ml - Original and Tinted RRP $19.95. The Australian market will love this, as a country with one of the highest-usage rates of dry shampoo. Pretty much because we don’t use it just to refresh between regular shampooing – we spray away daily to get lift in our locks, a bit of oomph in our roots or turn up the volume all round. Dry shampoo is great for each of these.

Celebrating the up-sizing, Klorane, maker of the world’s first dry shampoo in 1971, hosted beauty media to hear Brand Ambassador/TV Host, Rebecca Judd talk tips and techniques. Rebecca uses dry shampoo to achieve the texture for her trademark waves.

She advises spraying the product onto roots in sections from a 15cm distance. “I then leave it for two minutes, allowing excess oil to be absorbed, before brushing through to remove any residue. My hair is left clean, lighter and more refreshed,” says Judd.

Judd has been an ambassador for Klorane’s dry shampoos for the past two years, calling this product “the absolute best performing dry shampoo on the market”.

And this claim is backed by fact. One can of Klorane’s Dry Shampoo is sold every 10 seconds around the world, according to Klorane worldwide billing (2018).

Like all other Klorane products, Dry Shampoo with Oat Milk harnesses the power of botanicals along with pharmaceutical knowledge to be gentle on both the skin and environment.The vegan-friendly, ultragentle formula owes its cleansing properties to an original combination of highabsorbent agents that soak up sebum on the scalp.

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massaged into the face to become an extremely soft, rich cream. Once rinsed off with clean water, it disappears, taking with it all traces of make-up, impurities and pollution. It leaves the face purified, smooth, radiant and completely free of makeup”.

RRP $145.00, 125ml.

Sisley Restorative Hand Cream is a complete, intensive formula developed to soothe, repair and rehydrate the driest of hands and to strengthen damaged, neglected or tired nails. RRP $115.00, 75ml.

01. SISLEY’S TRIO OF SKINCARE DELIGHTS 02. BETTINA TYRELL – INSTYLE AND IANTHA YU, BEAUTY CREW

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03. BROOKE BONEY – TODAY! 04. IRENE ROBINSON – SISLEY WITH ANDREA FERRARI – ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA

01. DANI LOMBARD – SODA COMMUNICATIONS CHATS WITH REBECCA JUDD AT THE PRESS CONFERENCE

02. KLORANE DRY SHAMPOO WITH OAT MILK XL 250ML

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OUT & ABOUT

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A NEW PERFUME YSL LIBRE! YSL BEAUTÉ launches an important fragrance with Libre, being new (not a flanker) – a creation stemming from a heritage in breaking boundaries and valuing today’s yearning for true freedom.

Back in 1966, M. Saint Laurent created the first tuxedo for women. A little too free for the haute couture clientele, who were not sure about it, the Saint Laurent Rive Gauche version was a success. The label’s younger clientele was quick to purchase it, making the tuxedo a classic. This exemplifies freedom for Yves Saint Laurent, and its Beauté division has embraced it today with Libre – a Fougère (some classify it as Oriental Fougère). A juice seven years in the making and over 1500 variations.

The Master Perfumers, Anne Flipo and Carlos Benaïm, are renowned for creating numerous commercial successes.

WHAT IT IS

Libre Eau de Parfum is the new fragrance of freedom, a statement fragrance for those who live by their own rules. A reinvention of the floral perfume, it combines Lavender Essence from France with the sensuality of Moroccan Orange Blossom, for a unique floral fusion complemented by a daring note of Musk Accord.

WHAT IS DOES

Libre means free. It is a celebration of freedom: a fragrance for those who do what they want and dare to be exactly who they are. The bottle is a couture statement featuring a black asymmetric cap like a sexy couture dress, gold chains around the neck that are reminiscent of the iconic YSL it-bags, trimmed with the timeless Yves Saint Laurent Cassandre logo.

THE CREATION

Built on tensions between the sexy and the cool, Libre is a masculine structure and a feminine heart. The elegance of Paris and

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the vibrancy of New York, where it was conceived by IFF’s Master Perfumers Anne Flipo and Carlos Benaïm.

Libre is a freestyle take on the Fougère (fern notes), a classic style for men’s fragrances featuring lavender. Anne Flipo’s move was to gender-bend it into a feminine scent, is being described by the brand as “provocative” just like Yves Saint Laurent retailoring the tuxedo for women.

For Libre, she customised the Fougère’s key ingredient to highlight its flamboyance with Diva Lavender heart from Provence, emphasising the warmest, sweetest facets of the essence.

When Carlos Benaïm fashioned the most sensuous Orange Blossom absolute she’d ever smelled, revealing the hidden, burninghot character of the sweet white flower, she fell for it instantly.

Vanilla from Madagascar and a classic ambergris note, Grisalva, flesh out the femininity of the fougère structure and add a burning intensity to its addictive floral heart.

Flacon designer, Suzanne Dalton did what might be called audacious: She “felt free to dare the inappropriate” she says.

She took liberties with an icon. Because she could. And because the Cassandre logo is the only one that can be instantly recognised in any position. She flipped the iconic YSL on its side, bent it to follow the sharp angle of the bottle and nailed it to the glass – a jewel of engineering. Echoing the sensual fusion between metal, glass and fragrance, a precision-cut glass V underlines the décolletage of the Y. FROM THE CAMPAIGN DIRECTOR

Nabin Elderkin – campaign director comments: “Now more than ever the iconic vision of the YSL Woman is an inspiration to the world. The balance of feminine and masculine, the do-not-give-a-f**k badassery, the knowing-exactly-what-she-wants-andgoing-for-it energy that propels this brand and this film is both timeless and of the moment. We’re not going to make a run of the mill fragrance spot. This is not another film with a listless woman lusting after

80| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

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some man, running coyly through the city, moping around looking bored. This is a bold departure from the norm. This is an epic, emotional, mind-blowing, eye-dazzling call to arms for women everywhere to embrace their FREEDOM.” DUA LIPA IS YSL BEAUTÉ FRAGRANCE AMBASSADOR

She is pop music’s bold new voice. Since her eponymous debut album in 2017, Londonborn Dua Lipa has been breaking records, becoming the most streamed female artist in the world.

She is a dreamer and a doer. She has made history when she was nominated for five categories at the 2018 Brit Awards. The video for her hit single ‘New Rules’, her anthem for female empowerment, gained over a billion views on YouTube, making her the youngest female artist to hit this target.

She is a cultural definer. The winner of two Grammy awards and three Brit awards, with an uncompromising sense of self and a willingness to speak her truth, Dua was hailed as a Next Generation Leader by Time magazine. With tens of millions of followers, she is one of the most engaged individuals on Instagram.

She is a fashion icon. With her edgy, sultry beauty she’s being booked by fashion’s most prominent photographers.

Sydney’s stylish influencers and social personalities joined beauty media to view the campaign unveiling and get a preview sniff of the alluring new perfume.

Available at Myer, David Jones and Sephora: 90ml – RRP $225.00. 50ml – RRP $165.00 and 30ml – RRP $99.00.

01. YSL LIBRE 02. BROOKE HOGAN 03. RENAE ARYIS, ABBEY GELMI & JADE TUNCHY 04. RACHEL TEE TYLER 06. STEFFANIE TZANEROS 05. EMILY GURR & YASMIN SUTEJA 07. ANDREA FERRARI – ESPRIT AND CHRISTINE BURKE – YSL/L’OREAL

OUT & ABOUT

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A LEGEND IN THEIR OWN LAUNCH EVENT Faces-of-the-brands, Paco Rabanne Invictus Legend and Olympéa Legend fragrances, Nick Youngquest and Luma Grothe, made personal appearances at both the media launch and the Beauty Advisor training day.

To celebrate the launches in Australia with beauty press, Paco Rabanne hosted a yoga class with guest teacher, Youngquest himself leading the flow, in the winter sun on the deck of Sydney’s Andrew Boy Charlton pool.

Preceding the activity, Peter Playford, Paco Rabanne/Puig Country Manager, chatted with Nick about his sports background. Both guys have a history in rugby, with Playford having a successful career as a Waratahs player and then coach for the Sydney Stars team. Former National Rugby League player Nick also has years of professional sport to his name, before moving into the fashion world. He revealed that when he retired from sport, he didn’t know what to do but was lured into the Paris fashion industry which he says has been a great journey since 2013.

Invictus Legend perfumers Domitille Michalon-Bertier at IFF working in collaboration with Nicholas Beaulieu, have retained some of the key codes of original Invictus: a fresh sensuality along with the signature notes of laurel, grapefruit and guaiac wood. As a cool, woodland built on an amber marinewood pairing, it warms to a woody, spicy fiery intensity. EdP 50ml, RRP $109.00 and 100ml, RRP $146.00.

Olympéa Legend is created by Loc Dong, also at IFF, who developed the original. Maintaining the familiarity of freshness and sensuality, the new key notes are vanilla, ginger flower and the signature salty note. Described as an Oriental fragrance its delicious scent is vanilla-salty plum. EdP 50ml, RRP $126.00 and 80ml, RRP $164.00.

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01. LUMA GROTHE - FACE OF OLYMPÉA LEGEND WITH PUIG AUSTRALIA’S KELLY CABRAL, PETER PLAYFORD AND JULIA NOH

02. AND WHY NOT? ESPRIT’S ANDREA SNAPS UP AN OPPORTUNITY WITH THE BOYS: PETER PLAYFORD AND NICK YOUNGQUEST - FACE OF INVICTUS LEGEND

03. NICK LEADS A YOGA CLASS WITH THE BEAUTY MEDIA

04. THE FRAGRANT STARS OF THE SHOW – INVICTUS LEGEND AND OLYMPÉA LEGEND

Paco Rabanne Invictus and Olympéa Legend are on counter now at Myer and David Jones.

PUIG IS ALL ABOUT STORY TELLING

Ruth Stonier - National Training Manager - headed up the Puig Blockbuster Training Event for the Legend launches, with a couple of big surprises.

“Our annual Puig Blockbuster Training Event is when we invite our BAs from across the country to be together in an environment that offers many factors. It is not only about previewing new product launches; it is about the atmosphere and the added elements that will encourage our teams to feel excited and motivated to go back to their stores and approach the launches with added enthusiasm.

The moment our Brand Ambassadors walked through the door, I knew the day was going to be full of Legendary moments. The excitement of coming to a different venue such as Carriageworks is one element, and we also like to build the notion of it being a Training Event versus a product training, which is key.

Our Puig training day revealed the latest collection from Paco Rabanne, Invictus and Olympéa Legends, featuring the two new fragrances that offer appeal to all. An element of the event is ensuring our BAs give feedback and participation in any sized audience and I’m delighted to say the BAs were enthusiastic.

Having a surprise element with our Paco Legends, Nick Youngquest and Luma Grothe - the faces of Invictus and Olympéa - arriving at the training event, was a very memorable moment and sure to be a factor when storytelling with customers.

Our afternoon session was also full of surprises where we featured the new Jean Paul Gaultier, Garden collection. I strive to replicate each brands’ expectations through being colourful, sensorial, interactive and create participation from our BAs. To do this, at every training, I prepare something out of the ordinary to capture their imagination and leave an imprint that will make a difference when the BAs are telling the stories in stores. With so many launches and sales targets to achieve, my overall objective to is ensure each brand has a point of difference… a little bit of magic, fun and on this occasion, a quick dance routine which all makes for another memorable training event. Our BAs left in the afternoon with a spring in their step and plenty of good memories from a day that allows them to enjoy being together with their colleagues.”

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OUT & ABOUT

01.

02.

DRUMROLL FOR SEPHORA BEAUTY BEATS Beauty Beats by Sephora is the global beauty retailer’s regular brand showcase event where media and influencers get to meet the founders and/or representatives of an array of consumer-favourite brands, preview upcoming releases and attend minimasterclasses…one-on-one.

Sephora Beauty Beats recently brought together 39 hot, innovative, game-changing beauty brands including Sephora own brand, to share global launches, local launches and company news.

Here’s esprit’s highlights amongst a galaxy of greats.

PAT MCGRATH LABS

Widely reported on – but never-the-less winning top spot in this report – is Pat McGrath Labs’ launch of the eponymous, world-leading UK makeup-artist-founded cosmetics brand. Bursting with excitement a day before the Sephora Pitt Street, Sydney launch – the worldwide debut day – we chatted with the team representing the brand at Beauty Beats: Kelly Bilimoria, Kisha Augustine and Annabel Prouty.

Acknowledging Pat McGrath’s connection to London department store, Selfridges, the team told us their aim was to create the buzz that always pumps in that iconic store.

Pat grew up mixing foundation shades, creating her own take for the runways, shoots and real life. The time has come, now, for her brand to deliver her expertise in a bottle. Ever inclusive of ethnicities and skin tone shades, she has created 36 shades in five families. The texture is formulated to be buildable so it can apply quite lightly – using fingers, sponge or brush. Layering the foundation gives a medium coverage – best to use a tool for this finish.

05.

KENDO – OLE HENRIKSEN

PHAT Glow Facial is inspired by the concept of Korean beauty and glass-like skin. Its name takes a tick to work out…

PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) and Nordic sap.

Introducing this as an Australian debut, Amy Wilson briefed us on what it does.

An age-fighting face mask, it works like a professional facial, with potent actives, to exfoliate gently, illuminate tone, retexturize and brighten the skin while also pumping it with deep hydration. Suitable for sensitive skins, it launches into the Transform Plus Collection.

IT COSMETICS

it Cosmetics Confidence collection adds Confidence in a Cleanser, said to be pioneering the serum-infused cleanser subdivision. Josephine Houlihan describes it as: “delivering while you wash your skin”.

Because it gives back in this nurturing way, the customer is left to make her own decision whether to moisturise or not. Formulated with the brand’s proprietary Anti-Aging Armour Rejuvenating Concentrate™ to help skin appear rejuvenated and restored with moisture, it includes anti-ageing collagen, hyaluronic acid, colloidal oatmeal and a super ceramide complex.

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06.

Josephine tipped us off on another launch which has just dropped in to Sephora Australia – Confidence in a Gel Lotion. Oilfree for all skin types, it is super plumping.

“A skin transforming weightless moisturiser developed with a built-in primer to work with makeup”.

BYBI

Steaming towards its 3rd birthday trading in ethical and clean beauty (born in February 2017), Bybi is the first skincare brand from Clean Beauty Co. The founders state that Bybi is a 100% natural, certified vegan and cruelty free skincare brand from London, UK. With commitment to launch beauty products that actually work, their in-house cosmetic scientist will only use ingredients that will directly benefit the skin. The driving force has always been transparency, so customers can make an informed choice, knowing what’s in their beauty products; and innovation, because natural doesn’t have to mean basic.

Denham Bridges, Brand Ambassador for Bybi in Australia introduced us to the new products. A trio of Boosters. Using upcycled strawberry seeds from juicing, Strawberry Seed Oil Booster is a great skin-softener, improving moisture levels for complexions

01. PAT MCGRATH LABS - KELLY BILIMORIA, KISHA AUGUSTINE AND ANNABEL PROUTY.

02. KENDO BRANDS’ OLE HENRIKSEN AMY WILSON

03. IT COSMETICS - JOSEPHINE HOULIHAN AND GRANT POWER

04. BYBI - DENHAM BRIDGES 05. KOPARI - KRISTY GRAY 06. CHRISTOPHE ROBIN - KARINA PARRY, BILLIE REED AND TAYLAH JONES

01.

Just launched is Coconut Detox Mask.

Looking like a juicy clay mask, that’s kind of what it is.

Unlike traditional clay masks it doesn’t dry out on the skin. Added to the clay base, the coconut gives it an emollient texture keeping it creamy on the skin. It works to draw out impurities and calm and enrich the skin.

CHRISTOPHE ROBIN

that are feeling a little dry, flaky or sensitive.

Bakuchiol Booster is a plant-derived, 100%-natural alternative to vitamin A, aka retinol. Combining power with gentle, this ingredient is a game-changer as it’s directly linked to collagen production and can dramatically improve skin texture, for skin that’s feeling damaged and tired. Buriti Booster’s powerful antioxidant properties work to defend against environmental stressors including pollution and UV. It’s perfect for those leading the usual work/ play life, who just want to make sure their skin is truly protected.

Hero Babe Balm now comes with a hint of tint as Babe Balm Bronzer. Denham tells us, it’s a skincare/makeup hybrid.

Copper-bronze mica powders bring a touch of sunshine into the nourishing balm highlighter to create a luminous and buildable natural glow for cheeks, lids, lips, collarbones and more!

KOPARI

Premium 100% pure, organic coconut oil sustainably sourced from small family farms in the Philippines is the point of difference for Kopari as a coconut oil beauty brand.

“It is not food grade – it is premium”, states brand representative, Kristy Gray.

Not all coconut oils are created equal, and with a tree-to-jar process along with the nurturing intentions in manufacture, Kopari products are leaders in their field.

It was interesting to hear that the coconut husks are not thrown to waste. They are burnt to create activated charcoal and used in the brand’s toothpaste and deodorant formulations.

OUT & ABOUT

04.

03.

Definitely a one-on-the-radar, this 20-year-old eponymous haircare brand is founded in salon expertise by renowned hairdresser Christophe Robin, who is fascinated by women’s beauty and creating the most efficacious formulas to achieve hair fabulousness.

With a portfolio of innovative products, NPD remains a vital part of the retail side of his hairdressing business. Approaching haircare from the scalp, Christophe Robin haircare range is all about achieving the look without damaging the hair.

The global best seller is the decadeold, award winning Cleansing Purifying Scrub With Sea Salt which is actually a shampoo, recommended for once a week use. Slightly grainy, from the salt, it gently exfoliates the scalp, prepping it for health.

It thoroughly cleanses through the hair, detoxing and removing build-up. Prepping it for a conditioning treatment. Newly tasked with this job is Detangling Gelee Conditioner. Safe on the scalp, of course, it helps condition from scalp through to tips of the hair, helping prevent hair loss, breakage and flakiness.

Like a tag team, the richly informed and enthusiastic team of Karina Parry, Billie Reed and Taylah Jones spilled out all the product benefits and usage and results we can expect. Especially emphasised is the Sea Mineral Cocktail (Zinc, Magnesium, Iron, Calcium, Potassium) which helps remineralise and strengthen the scalp and hair. The haircare products are formulated in a skincare lab, says the team, making the products more like skincare than typical hair products.

MORE WAYS TO FACE BEAUTY If you thought the mask market was saturated, you’d be wrong. Today’s customers have an increasing myriad of masks for their individual needs. New brand on the block is Spascriptions - a brand, serendipidously discovered in New York by John Fisher, Business Development Director at Chemcorp. A veteran product scout, John knew his Australian consumers would love the wide variety of specifically tasked masks at the accessibly priced under-$20 price tag.

Spascriptions offers over 30 unique facial products. The formulations combine nature with science to create beautiful products and tailored skincare solutions designed for specific skin needs.

Launching over 22 masks, two cleansing strip varieties, four types of makeup cleansing wipes and two facial accessories, Spascriptions was developed by an expert team of researchers and chemists.

Erica Galea – Marketing Manager, Chemcorp hosted a media event to demonstrate the wide portfolio of facial treats, saying: “Spascriptions offers an affordable, easy to use skincare range designed to fit perfectly into your beauty routine. Created with a range of key ingredients to target specific skin conditions, each product is pH balanced, hypoallergenic and not tested on animals”.

Available nationally in Big W stores now.

01. IT’S A CHARCOAL MOMENT

02. WHAT’S IT ALL A-POUT?

02.

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INFLUENCER

INFLUENCER esprit’s collection of industry friends share their strategies on networking, selling, product knowledge and job-related growth to build your career as a beauty assistant, beauty influencer.

R U T H S TO N I E R R E S C U M E AC A D E M Y ICY LING MICHAEL BROWN T R U T H FA I R Y 84| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA OCTOBER/NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

RUTH STONIER

By Nicci Herrera

After discovering her love for makeup and skincare 30 years ago, Ruth initially studied Beauty Therapy. Coincidentally, one of the first brands she worked with in beauty salons was Clarins.

Ruth’s career has seen her working in key beauty salons, Estée Lauder Companies as a Counter Manager, at Yves Saint Laurent as the NSW State Sales Manager, and Ella Bache as Vice Principal in the NSW College. She has also worked as a key educator in both the Beauty division and the Outreach division of TAFE NSW. Ruth joined Trimex in 2008 as the NSW Clarins Trainer and has had various roles including moving across to the sales division for two years, then returning to training.

Ruth’s career within the Trimex/ Clarins Group has allowed her to diversify her skills in many facets.

Taking time out to advance her knowledge, she completed her HR diploma to extend her professional capacity and add value to her ability as a Manager and Trainer.

Ruth transitioned into the Fragrance and Beauty Division in 2015 as the National Training Manager for Fragrance and Beauty, responsible for the training of over 15 brands.

INFLUENCER

Have you met...

Nicci chats with Ruth – National Training Manager – The Clarins Group – PUIG WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB?

I worked in a pharmacy as a teenager and I immediately loved everything about it. I went from learning about the dispensary compounds to being immersed in brands such Payot and Innoxa. The pharmacy specialised in fragrances with such collections as Chanel and Dior among others.

WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT YOUR ROLE?

I love my role as it is very diverse with lots of travel and connecting with so many people. I love being able to add value in training through innovative and entertaining presentations which leave an impression on the audience - and hopefully transfers to our customers. Our trainings emphasise the concept of elevated service. This ensures our BAs are thorough and knowledgeable through storytelling, and that they pay attention to detail. I love getting the feedback from our BAs about customers they have engaged with, which we discuss at every training session.

HOW MANY GIRLS WOULD YOU TRAIN IN A YEAR?

As our Portfolio is wide, every quarter we train across Australia and New Zealand, and annually we present our Blockbuster trainings to celebrate our successes. This results in training over 1000 people per year.

DO YOU HAVE A LIFE MOTTO?

As I have got older and wiser, and now as a mother of two young adults, my life motto has evolved. I’ve learnt not to overthink things and to be confident in my decisions.

WHICH IS YOUR FAVOURITE STATE TO STAY IN WHEN TRAVELLING FOR WORK AND WHY?

As I get to know more about each destination, I appreciate the more unusual and off the grid natural moments. I would say Western Australia is my favourite this year, as our team have excelled and are very proud of their achievements.

WHAT’S THE BEST PIECE OF ADVICE THAT HAS EVER BEEN SHARED WITH YOU?

Always listen to the other person’s opinion, that way you’ll have two.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVE PLAYLIST AND PODCAST WHILE TRAVELING?

My playlist is wide. When travelling I listen to classical music in order to relax and prepare for my presentations, preferably by any composer whose name I can’t spell! I am very nostalgic, so all genres of music give me inspiration.

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INFLUENCER

Nigel’s

01.

Top 10 Beauty Hacks RescuMe Academy’s Nigel Stanislas tutorials are all about upskilling in makeup and skincare. For you on the shop floor it’s gold dust to get this expert info, professional coaching direct into your hands, courtesy of the company. In this 4th part of the esprit series with RescuMe Academy, Nigel shares his top 10 beauty tips, aka HACKS.

02.

1. Oily Face

The scenario: handling the emergency selfie with girlfriends and the sweat is on!

First stop – use a face blot, like Clarins Blotting Paper. Not got one …take a tissue and blot the face to take out all the extra shine.

The great thing about blotting the face is that when you press the tissue onto the face, it lifts off the oil that keeps the pigment on the surface of the skin. Also, this prevents it from looking cakey.

2. Messy Brows

03.

If you haven’t already noticed, I am obsessed with brows. And brushing the brows is a must for me because it lifts the face and gives a more youthful look. No brow gel ready at hand?

Don’t worry. I’m sure someone close by has hairspray. All you have to do is take the hairspray, spray it on your spoolie brush or onto a toothbrush, make sure it’s clean and just brush the brows up.

You know that different mascaras come with different brushes. Have one which is big and fluffy, and then have a regular one, a tiny little pointed one, and maybe a little curly one.

While we’re on wands - my tip is when you finish any mascara, keep the wand so that you build up a wardrobe of spoolies for different lash looks.

3. If You Don’t Have Eyeliner

Cat eye drama! Picture being on vacation and a cat eye is calling …mascara…tick… eyeliner…No tick!

Well, guess what my solution is? Got a brush like Makeup Forever’s bent eyeliner brush or even a slanted brush that you can use for your eyebrows? Dip your eyeliner brush into some mascara and line away.

You need your makeup kit to be smart for you and your clients, so maybe sit back and have a think about which products can multitask so that you can bring fewer products and have maximum glamour.

04.

05.

4. Curling Lashes

Does your eyelash curler let you down? Mine has, especially during those colder months.

My trick…use a hairdryer and blast it for about two seconds. Now remember, this is a little bit dangerous, but it always works. Test it on the back of your hand to make sure it’s not too hot so you don’t create crispy lashes…just nice curly ones!

5. Sharpen For Success

Now I’m going to teach you this hack on how to sharpen with success. If you ever find that the sharpener and your pencils are not friends because they melt or break or they just won’t come off on the back of your hand. This is what you do in a situation where your lead breaks every time you sharpen it.

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06.

RESCUME ACADEMY’S RESIDENT MAKEUP ARTIST EXPERT, NIGEL STANISLAUS

Pop them in the freezer for about 10 minutes. Then take them out again and sharpen, you’ll find that you’ll get a beautiful point.

07.

6. Winter Hack

During the colder months, if you’re trying to line the lips or eyes and nothing, no colour pay off. What do you do?

Take your trusted hairdryer; give the pencil a blast and you’ll find the colour will glide away.

7. Hiding Pimples

The Uber is on order, five minutes until the date of your life and a last look in the mirror and there’s a massive pimple about to erupt.

What to do? Covering up with too much foundation will make it look like a lamington. So, this is my pimple-problem solver. It’s always great to have anti-redness eye drops in the fridge or a cup of ice. Use a cotton tip, drench it like you wouldn’t believe it. Place it on the problem area and watch it disappear.

08.

8. Goodbye Puffy Eyes

Travelling across the Atlantic, brings out bags …under the eyes.

What are you going to do? Take a soaked and clean chamomile tea bag, place it over the eyes and no one needs to know what happened last night.

9. Extra Eye Shadow Fallout

Creating the ultimate smoky eye…ever elusive, but you CAN do it, and then you look a few millimetres down and half of the product is actually on the cheek. This is not on. Shield your client’s eyes. No need to explain - get a panty liner, open it up and get the scissors out. Cut it like a little oval, peel the sticker and place it under the eyes. This will literally grab all the eye shadow fall out.

10. Summer Heat

Yay…caught in a desert island with a really hot guy and it went from typhoon to tropical in two seconds. What’s your helpful, handy tip to maintaining a cool face for your clients?

Pass this one on. Using foundation, give it a good shake and put 50% foundation on the back of the hand and 50% moisturiser. Mix it together to sheer it out and this will give it a beautiful, natural finish.

09.

10.

YOU CAN LEARN EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT BEAUTY AND MAKEUP FROM NIGEL VIA HIS COURSE AT WWW.RESCUMEACADEMY.COM AND CHECK OUT HIS ONLINE BE YOUR OWN MAKEUP ARTIST COURSE.

Book & Save: Save $50 as an esprit Magazine Australia reader. Sign up for your course using this code ESPRITCOURSE to save $50 off the full price!

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INFLUENCER

Correct ’Em… The Correct Way Have you ever got into a situation where your close friends are chatting about some topics that you are really really really good at. And you realise they are sharing the wrong information with each other.

How do you correct them without ruining your relationship?

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By Icy Ling INSTAGRAM | @icybutterfly

In sharing information, we have a responsibility…to be right! As happy as I am when people tell me they would only purchase a product if they see me using it on social media, I also get worried. What if I make a mistake in my recommendations?

It got me thinking about what happens in the shopping scenario after visiting a cosmetic counter for a consultation or getting tips at a makeup lesson? Listening to my friends they were saying they don’t have time to go for a consultation, and the BAs are too pretty in any case, and they feel intimidated when they are told they haven’t been using the products correctly.

OMG… So even if they think they might be making mistakes, they are still afraid of shopping in a store for a change.

Admitting your own mistakes and sharing your experiences will most likely bring the other person closer. Unless it makes us feel special, most of us wouldn’t want to feel like we are the only one not ‘in the know’.

A flaw doesn’t necessarily make one a bad person. Even when it is a big deal, focus on the error itself rather than the person. Just because it’s your area of expertise, doesn’t mean it is everyone’s.

What’s more important is that your recipient finds a motive to make a change after all.

Do you want a new friend or a new enemy? Trying to help can sometimes create trouble. So next time when you are trying to correct someone’s big or small mistake, do it in a way that will not create resentment. Be humble and gracious.

Credit: Kaka Tang

It also happened to me one time when I forgot to apply mascara at home. I bought a new one to use straight away.

At the counter, (maybe I was rushing too much and gave off the wrong vibe) after I took it out of packaging, I plumped the mascara wand in and out, in and out (without thinking what I was doing)…the BA watched me doing so and said ‘you shouldn’t do that’. I was then given a full lecture about how to keep air and bacteria out of a mascara tube while I was trying to focus zigzagging the mascara wand in the mirror, before running late. Sounds like I should really be grateful for getting a free lesson rather than feeling disgruntled at the ‘lecture’. However, I never revisited her (for another mascara which I do replace every couple of weeks). I even switched to another brand.

How to correct people without offending them? It can happen anywhere in a work place, whether with a client or a colleague.

Feeling like correcting someone’s error is a kindness, right? Remember, while attempting to fix someone else’s mistakes, you are an expert, not a jerk. But there’s a way of doing it.

INFLUENCER

Admitting your own mistakes and sharing your experiences will most likely bring the other person closer. Unless it makes us feel special, most of us wouldn’t want to feel like we are the only one not ‘in the know’.

AND HERE ARE SOME OF MY TIPS:

Firstly, avoid doing it in front of others.

Secondly, always give honest praise to start with. Everyone loves a compliment.

This will encourage the person to take your criticism in a more constructive way.

You can also ask questions such as ‘who showed you?’ or ‘where did you learn this from?’ You may be surprised how often people are misled by social media or ‘google’. It’s not necessarily because they were given the wrong information, it might also be the result of rushing while browsing the content, not fully concentrating or being present, and missing out some important points.

LET’S CHAT

I am writing this column each issue in esprit Magazine Australia for 2019. If you would like to share your success, you know where to find me. @icybutterfly

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INFLUENCER M I C H A E L’ S T O P T I P S O N

t n e m e t i c x e t c u d o r P Amongst all the beauty products available in the world, we will still always have our ‘can’t live without’ products and boy, do they get us excited!

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It could be the texture, shade, a nuance or the way it wears - many things make a product our personal favourite.

The thought of it no longer existing is terrifying, but it makes us so happy every time we use it. We don’t think about it not being available, only how good it works for us, until the next hero product comes along…

I want you to think about your absolute favourite product right now!

A particular eye shadow? A primer that just gives such a beautiful result? Maybe that amazing new moisturiser your skin loves or that mascara that gives your lashes the false-lash effect…?

Think back to when you first saw, or heard about this product…

Was it love at first sight, or did you have to use it a few times and get used to it? Or did you see results and then love it?

However it happened, once it became your go-to product of choice you probably told your friends and customers about it and shared the excitement of your results so much so, they are now using it, or at least tried it, to see if it works just as successfully on themselves.

WORD OF MOUTH

Word of mouth testimonials work so well, as they are genuine and there’s an element of excitement to the storytelling; sharing someone’s experience, especially when it’s a product and it performs as it is sold to you.

Your storytelling to a friend, colleague or family member is very truthful, because it comes from your genuine passion for the product and you want that person to also have a great experience/results with a product. This is just how the Blogger originally started, especially in beauty, as it was enthusiastic, honest, genuine testimonials, not driven by marketing and not focused on sales…its was simply telling your friends, in the public domain, with truthful experiences, good or bad.

Consumers want honest testimonials.

They seek out ‘what’s in it for me?’ and enjoy that beauty buzz excitement when talking about new products.

Here are some YouTube stats* to think about…

• In 2017 there were more than 88 billion beauty videos on YouTube, growing from “only” 55 billion in 2016, according to Statista • Every month YouTube registers more than 700 million views, of beautyrelated content *digitalsurgeons 2018 • 86%** of the top 200 beauty videos on YouTube were made by creators (vs. branded or professional content). **Nielsen/Carat/YouTube branded video study, May 2017

INFLUENCER

YOUR FAVOURITE

Consumers want honest testimonials, they seek out ‘what’s in it for me?’ and enjoy that beauty buzz excitement when talking about new products.

DO YOU BRING EXCITEMENT TO BEAUTY SALES?

The reason why Bloggers and now Vloggers have so much power with sales of beauty is in one part, their honesty in product efficacy, but also their ability to bring excitement to product storytelling.

If you love a product, share the excitement. Tell your customers ALL about it. And show them. Why not?

You’ve got nothing to lose, and their enthusiasm (and sales) to gain.

If you love the way a product performs perfectly to how it is sold, then share the excitement.

If you think back to your Top 3-5 ‘Can’t live without’ products, your absolute faves, I bet you have shared your love and excitement of the product(s) to many people.

YOU CAN BE THE STORYTELLER ON THE SHOP FLOOR

Be the storyteller you would want to engage with if you were the consumer listening in.

Bring excitement to the retail floor and show consumers they can get that same level of hype and buzz they see online, but this way it’s in real time and you can show them exactly why you just love it so much.

Lose the robotic, salesperson nature and be the beauty lover that drew you into the industry in the first place, sharing the love of beauty to all - your new results will speak for themselves!

I love the way it always draws in customers. See how it works for you, too!

BY MICHAEL BROWN @MBROWN_BEAUTY WWW.MICHAELBROWNBEAUTY.COM.AU MICHAEL BROWN HAS JUST BEEN APPOINTED BY MARC JACOBS BEAUTY AS SOUTHEAST ASIA REGIONAL ARTISTRY AMBASSADOR

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Are you in fine form… for the festive season’s selling opportunities?

The sets have been gifted up, the baubles have been polished and hung, the marketing has tantalised the masses to come shopping and, plug your ears…the Christmas Carols are on a continuous loop…are you consultation-ready for your customers, is your team primed for gifting time, are the long hours logged in to a manageable schedule…and do you have a strategy for not losing it when Jingle Bells comes around the loop for the hundred-andfirst time? Here our Beauty Advisor colleagues share their prep plans for prompts and points that just might appeal to you! something that sets us apart from other brands on the cosmetics floor and customers love the instant result it has on their skin. And of course we like to reward our customers with deluxe samples and gifts around this time of the year.

As a team we always strive for success and meeting our customers needs and of course recruiting and introducing new customers to our brand.

esprit asks the BAs: “How are you gearing yourself up professionally to make the most of the festive selling season?”

understanding there will be challenges and overcoming them as a strong support team, and celebrating all of our successes. Our main focus for this festive season is to showcase our Hero Products, by incorporating these into every customer service experience.

Samantha Honeysett ELIZABETH ARDEN STORE: MYER SYDNEY CITY CITY: SYDNEY, NSW With the Festive Season fast approaching it definitely is an exciting time of the year and certainly a busy one for all who work in the beauty industry.

A few things I have learnt as a manager of a cosmetics counter is organisation and preparation are key, from stock levels and collateral to successful eventing and customer demands. For this to all run smoothly it is without a doubt imperative that team morale is high, whilst creating a happy and positive team environment.

To help drive us through this season we plan luxury facials as well as skincare and makeup workshops. To promote our exciting Christmas gift sets we hold an interactive workshop for all our VIP customers so they can learn about new products and tips and tricks that are currently trending.

We also offer what we call “speed services” on counter - a variety of different treatments that the customer can choose from. These include our booster bar service which infuses the skin with vitamins and minerals based on specific skin concerns. This service is

Cecilia Escobar ESTÉE LAUDER STORE: MYER GARDEN CITY CITY: PERTH, WA I have been in the cosmetic industry for 10 years and look forward to every Christmas season. Estée Lauder truly brings the best of Christmas spirit with gifts that win the hearts of everyone. We also provide the service of customising a gift box in order to satisfy our customers’ wants and needs. This year the team and I will be collaborating on events throughout the festive season and we will be holding our “Block Party” for the launch of the famous Blockbuster Set. Planning collaborative events in advance and clarifying the goals within the team is what drives our business to success; additionally,

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Ryan Cho Yaw Neo MARC EDWARD AGENCY STORE: MYER & DAVID JONES CITY: MELBOURNE, VIC There are many ways in which I am gearing myself up professionally to make the most out of this exciting festive season which always seems to come along way too quickly! One of the most important things to do to excite customers is to create a buzz around the product I am selling. This can be as simple as a hello to a customer who may not have been interested before. It creates a welcoming and friendly face which intrigues the customer to come and look at what I have to offer. This not only has the customer engaged but it allows me to think of selling products as more than a job - it makes it a fun work environment to be around as I’m meeting new people constantly.

Self-motivation is essential in a role like this. It includes me doing my homework. If

Nicholas Preston CLINIQUE STORE: MYER BRISBANE CITY: BRISBANE, QLD Christmas is an important part of our business at Clinique, in fact the holidays are one of the busiest times for us outside of GWP. Understanding this, maintaining our service excellence and energy levels at this time is critical to our overall results. It is crucial to have both a team and customer engagement strategy that ensures continuity with service and sales. As a counter manager, it is important to collaborate with your team to come up with new and creative ideas on how to maximise your Christmas trade. This enables you to drive team-oriented goals which in turn, create ownership and unity. In terms of customer engagement, it is important to understand our client needs. Our clients are not only shopping for gifts, but often for themselves therefore offering our Clinique You-Time Services to provide memorable moments, elevates their experience.

Maintaining focus in a high stress season is a must...selecting the KPIs that drive the behaviour you want in your business is key. Hourly check-ins work well to keep us on course with our performance and allow us to celebrate individual and team success. Retail is continually evolving as

is our clients’ expectations. It is therefore important to stay on their agenda, giving clients what they want, when they want and in the time they want it.

Our Christmas offer at Clinique gives us the opportunity to engage new customers and reward existing. It also provides a wonderful opportunity to invite our clients back for a New Year pamper, where they have the opportunity to experience Clinique at a more comfortable pace. Maintaining momentum following Christmas trade is critical to the health of our basic business and ensures success at the end of our season.

Final tip...Have fun! Your customers will be drawn to your energy and will love it!

Mina Thansongsaeng SISLEY STORE: DAVID JONES, QUEENS PLAZA CITY: BRISBANE, QLD The Festive Season is a wonderful and fun time of the year! There are many creative retail sales ideas we can implement to boost sales.

We aim to give our customers the best shopping experience during the Festive Season and plan ahead in order to meet our goals. Firstly, we ensure our counters and gift selection are beautifully merchandised so we can attract customers that both know the brand and new customers that are looking for gift ideas.

At Sisley, customer service is key to our success. We offer complimentary services, on-counter rituals, with skincare, makeup, fragrance and hair rituals. We aim to make our customers feel special and pampered.

Special events make the festive season fun and exciting. We have VIP shopping nights, makeup events and offer luxury facials to build our customers’ desire to come to our counters and stay loyal to our brand.

Leading by example and gaining all counter teams’ commitment to embrace the festive spirit is very important. We work together to achieve the festive goals and work hard as a team to ensure that our customers feel happy and delighted when they visit our counter at David Jones, Queens Plaza.

Lynda Sok MARC EDWARD AGENCY STORE: DAVID JONES & SEPHORA CITY: SYDNEY, NSW

INFLUENCER – BEAUTY & THE BEST

I know the brand from the inside out, I can then not only showcase a product, but also tell a story. Customers love knowing where the product comes from and so do I. The Festive Season means colour and fun! So many brands have such amazing advertising and gift ideas that help immensely with us as beauty advisors to make the most of the (silly) season. It means we can offer something more than the product itself that they came in to buy.

We work in such a fast paced industry that it is important to stay grounded and concentrated on what we are doing, selling and showing. This Festive Season it is so important to wear a smile, say a smiley hello and be the best beauty consultant we can be.

As the Festive Season is creeping up, our team is gearing up for the traffic.

During this time of the year, brands often create gift sets and specials for all their customers to enjoy with their loved ones. Often you would see activations held outside department stores, promoting their best sellers.

Just how do we, at MEA, gear up and prepare ourselves for such events you might ask? We equip ourselves with knowledge and background information about the brand we represent. These activities are carried out through training sessions which are generally organised by the brand companies, where added value and skills to our sales technique are offered to support our ambassadors.

Not only are we self-motivated and determined to meet our consumers’ expectations, but we also work hard and support each other to ensure we are all taking care of one another during these long and even extended hours of pure customer service excellence. Each ambassador holds a high level of professional customer service skill which can be easily recognised.

Just as excited as our consumers, our trained team of professionals makes shopping an experience, especially fitting during this time of the year.

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INFLUENCER

Living my best life

By Julia Walker-Bengtsson IN THE WORDS OF LIL DUVAL I’M LIVING MY BEST LIFE… …HOW DID I GET HERE?

After all, wherever you are, you’re there because you put effort into that path.

It’s where your attention focused, deliberately or not. I learned this early on in life with various circumstances I found myself in. I realised if I took responsibility for everything I did, and therefore consciously honed my actions to a particular path, I could achieve certain outcomes. What do you want to achieve so you, too, can live your best life?

Dedication to inner work.

Consistency, patience and executing a greater plan, chipping away steadily on a day-to-day basis.

A common misconception is that living your best life, is as simple as putting it out to the universe, creating a vision board or writing down your goals on a piece of paper and it all magically flowing into fruition. There is, in fact, deep work that needs to be done, accompanying your manifestations, to create your new reality.

When speaking with my clients, I often liken the above to one’s beauty regime.

Here we cleanse, plump and moisturise, nurturing the topical aspect but what about the cause?

When it comes to our state of mind, we often do the same thing; imagining a skindeep treatment is enough to create our new vision but how can we create a whole new reality with the same old patterns, negative thoughts and limiting beliefs?

MY TOP TIPS

Identify old beliefs that don’t serve you anymore. Look deep into your habits and destructive behaviours. For example, that extra shot of coffee that makes you question your breath and hits you with the jitters. #notcute Be HONEST! It’s easy to allow your mind to create justifications for your behaviour. It’s courageous to analyse, challenge and take ownership of it.

Know that true change takes time and patience. When we are so used to living in such a fashion, our body returns to automatic thinking patterns. It’s you who must consciously challenge these habits.

Set yourself up for success. If Friday afternoon often turns into bludging and office drinks or the pub on the way home, effectively wiping out Saturday morning, put holistic plans into place. Change your route home, do intense exercise on Friday morning so when it comes around to drinks, you’re too exhausted – get creative.

It is also OK to remove friends that bring you down and lead you away from your greater goals.

THIS LITERALLY IS ALL ABOUT YOU

The better you feel within yourself the better you show up to your customers, colleagues and friends. How different is a Monday morning spent after a weekend of yoga, juices and your lunches prepped for the week, to one where you are so hungover you hardly believe it’s Monday. Starting the week in such a depleted state probably finds you constantly checking your watch, dreading each approaching customer and carrying more-bags-than-Prada under your eyes.

Before you start asking for appreciation from others make sure that you appreciate yourself from top to bottom in all aspects first. Turn up to work in clean pressed clothes, great lippy and your favourite scent. Take pride in looking fabulous, and not just skin deep. Take care of yourself first in order to take care of others.

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Emotional Intelligence is the sexiest attribute we have.

Emotional intelligence is the capacity to be aware of, control and express one’s emotions, and to handle interpersonal relationships judiciously and empathetically.

QUESTION: WHAT SERVES YOU BEST TODAY, TOMORROW AND IN 30 YEARS’ TIME?

Enjoying intelligent choices, consciously and sometimes bravely made, eventually becomes our natural way of life. What once was a major mental battle can become a new habit, of a constructive kind, and towards the greater-good cause. What’s even more intelligent is reassessing your ‘habits’ regularly and not holding on to a behaviour that “used to” serve you.

Our lives are full of choices and options, like sliding doors, for a better you or me. Choose a conscious plan and management of time that goes beyond looking at the surface, one that we find brings sustainable longevity to a whole new level.

“Know the world in yourself.

Never look for yourself in the world, for this would be to project your illusion” - Egyptian Proverb If you wish to discuss any of the above in depth or book a session in with me I would love to hear from you.

GET IN TOUCH Julia Walker-Bengtsson is a New Zealand born independent life skills motivator, doula and marriage celebrant. If you’d like to work on your life plan, call/ message me on: +61 (0) 408 457 718 juliatruthfairy@gmail.com

®

BRAND NEWS

NUDE BY NATURE SATIN LIQUID LIPSTICK Nude by Nature launches Satin Liquid Lipstick – a highly pigmented lippie giving a velvety-smooth finish without synthetics. It’s formulated with moisture-enriched, natural ingredients including nourishing Sweet Almond Oil, Shea Butter and native Australian Kakadu Plum. Vegan and Cruelty-Free, the formula is infused with intense colour and gives an enveloping velvety sensation. This delivers to the lips in a satin-matte finish with a nourished feel. There’s 10 shades ranging from light Sand, pinky Wisteria to Terracotta.

Launching exclusively in Priceline, it is going into Chemist Warehouse, Big W, Myer and selected independent pharmacies from 13th October 2019. RRP $22.95.

Natio All Day Matte Natio has created a performance pair providing shine control for a velvet matte look, in time for the warmer months. Natio Mattifying Powders and Shine Control Blotting Paper provide both shine control and portability for touch ups on the go.

Natio Mattifying Powder RRP $19.95 achieves a flawless matte finish. Suitable to wear over foundation or alone, the microfine powders leave skin with a smooth, velvet look and feel whilst controlling shine. Encased in a premium compact complete with powder puff applicator and mirror. In Transparent for a universal matte finish and Beige for a hint of colour. Natio Shine Control Blotting Paper RRP $7.95 controls excess oil and shine quickly and easily.

Made from softwood pulp, the individual blotting papers keep skin looking fresh without removing makeup. The wallet contains 100 sheets. Available from Myer, David Jones and selected Pharmacies from 10th October 2019.

Yummy new Vida Glows Vida Glow has two new Marine Collagen flavours. Available in a 30-serving pot. Mocha Marine Collagen is a rich heat-stable blend, that can be added to one’s morning coffee.

The natural coffee and chocolate antioxidants in the Mocha Marine Collagen help to reverse the effects of premature ageing and improve the effect of sun-damaged skin. Cranberry and Lime Marine Collagen combines the benefits of two potent complexion boosters. Both are rich sources of Vitamin C. Just one serving of Vida Glow’s Cranberry and Lime Marine Collagen contains 22% of the recommended daily value. The naturally occurring Vitamin C helps collagen absorption and is an essential component in the body’s production of collagen.

Available at David Jones, Myer and selected healthcare stores.

RRP $59.95.

Bondi Sands Tints Bondi Sands has developed a creamy highlighter to enhance and bring a glow to the complexion. Coming in three tints: Bronze, Gold and Pearl, GLO Lights illuminate the skin through glistening pigments that give a soft radiance to the skin. Highly pigmented the creamy texture means a smooth application that’s buildable. For a full face glow or for highlighting certain points where the sun naturally hits the face, shoulders and…anywhere, for a summery effect. RRP $19.95, 25ml exclusively at Priceline.

ARIANA GRANDE THANK U, NEXT SCENT Chemist Warehouse, My Beauty Spot and My Chemist are all stocking the new fragrance from Grammy winner Ariana Grande. Thank You, Next is said to “bottle the brilliance of her anthem ‘thank u, next’ into the ultimate fragrance”. So, what does that mean? The Thank You, Next brand has a sexy playfulness and sensibility that is empowering for her fans around the world. Says Grande: “I wanted to make a fragrance that smells related to my first fragrance Ari but more ‘Summery’, so I revisited Ari’s fruity pear and raspberry notes and changed it up by adding some coconut. I was inspired to design a bottle that represented the message of my song “thank u, next” - the emergence of the perfume from the broken heart represents moving forward from a challenging chapter.” Crafted by Robertet’s Jerome Epinette, the perfumer and artisan behind Byredo and Atelier Cologne, Jerome was inspired to develop a new olfactive territory here. It’s a creation that disrupts the gourmand space by layering beautiful florals and a textured musk for a more transparent, but still addictive signature to the fragrance. Distributed in Australia by Escentials Brands. EdP Spray 100 ml, RRP $59.00 and 30ml $39.00.

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BRAND NEWS

Ardell Naked Lashes Lash expert, Ardell, introduces whisper-light lashes for everyday wear. The Naked Lashes range features barely-there, natural looking lash styles that are lightweight for subtle definition. Point of difference is the patented Ardell Invisiband lash band for a comfortable and undetectable look. These designs are perfect for first-time false lash users, and those with shorter, sparser lashes for a natural makeup look. Available in five styles to suit each day of the work week! Launching into Priceline (AUS) and Farmers (NZ) this October, RRP AU $12.99 / NZ $16.99. Ardell has also just launched a range of five mascaras and five limited edition lash styles to pair with these mascaras.

No-brass blonde Blue Chamomile might sound like a tea blend but it’s actually something that’s turning heads … from brassy to true blonde. Intensively conditioning and reparative HASK Haircare’s Blue Chamomile & Argan Oil Blonde Care range comprises: a Shampoo and a Conditioner, 355ml, RRP $14.99 and Deep Conditioner 50g, RRP $4.99 which combine to brighten all shades of blonde hair. The 5-in-one Leave In Spray 175ml RRP $14.99, complements the benefits. Formulated to restore and brighten all shades of blonde while protecting and strengthening roots. Available now at Priceline.

BIODERMA’S TINTED PROTECTOR Bioderma Photoderm BB Cream SPF 50+ is a tinted skin perfector providing high UVA/UVB sun protection in two flattering shades – Light and Golden Beige. Key point of difference is the Cellular Bioprotecion® patent that protects the skin’s cells and DNA. Suitable for sensitive skin, its dry touch gives a mattifying finish. In application it smoothly melts into the skin to match its natural tone, covering imperfections and redness, and evens out the complexion. Available at French Beauty Co, Priceline, Chemist Warehouse, Adore Beauty & pharmacies nationwide. RRP $36.99, 40ml.

EYLURING LASHES Designed for false lash first-timers and those who find it tricky using glue, Eylure’s pre-glued styles take only a few seconds to apply and remove. Now they come with an upgraded pre-glued band that has been created to last longer…with a guaranteed 15 hour wear!* The range caters to everyday and evenings out in natural and voluminous styles.

RRP $10.99. *107 women tested the pre-glued Eylure lashes.

70% agreed that they lasted for 15+ hours.

Astonishing results from PTR Peter Thomas Roth (PTR), the man behind his eponymous brand, is described as an influential segment leader in the beauty industry. He leads product development in the clinical market as a groundbreaking, results-focused innovator.

Here’s the latest three PTR products, available in Sephora now.

Hungarian Thermal Water Mineral-Rich Eye Cream is a “fountain of youth” eye cream using thermal water sourced from a ‘secret’ spring deep below the Hungarian Carpathian Valley, where the earth’s crust is very thin, allowing water to absorb the most mineral as it bubbles to the surface. Enhanced with six Hungarian botanicals, Algae Extracts, Peptides, plantderived Lipids and Caffeine, the mineral rich formula nourishes and moisturises while helping to reduce the look of fine lines, wrinkles, crow’s feet and darkness for a firmer, smoother, younger-looking eye area. RRP $75.00. Pictured here.

Conditioning Lash Enhancer requires diligence of nightly use to see results. A potent 11% Peptide Complex and Biotin helps visibly improve the look of natural lash length, thickness, density and fullness, while a 10% Conditioning Complex, Aloe Vera and Tahitian Plankton Extract help moisturise, soften and enhance the appearance of dry, brittle lashes. Vitamins A, C and E help amplify benefits, providing nutrients and antioxidants. RRP $132.00.

Skin to Die For™ Darkness-Reducing Under-Eye Treatment Primer helps instantly reduce the look of darkness, puffiness and signs of ageing while priming skin for flawless makeup application. 2% Haloxyl™ and Vitamin K1 help visibly diminish the look of darkness, and Caffeine and Green Coffee Extract help minimise the appearance of under-eye bags. Hydrolyzed Collagen helps improve the look of fine lines, wrinkles and crow’s feet. A bit of blurring and blending ingredients complete the mix. RRP $50.00.

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BRAND NEWS

L’EDT FOR DANS MA BULLE BY CARVEN Carven’s Dans Ma Bulle (In My Bubble) perfume has been a huge success around the world. Now there’s a fresh interpretation L’Eau de Toilette. Described as spontaneous and refreshing, sparkling Dans Ma Bulle L’Eau de Toilette represents the same shade of green as hope, the grass between your toes and the world of nature, which has become ever-more precious in modern city life. To open, Pear, Litchi and Mandarin notes create a harmonious blend of juicy, tart fruit and an evocative sense of joy. The heart notes are a fusion of Peony and a sweet Almond accord. Base notes of Iris and Musk create a comforting backdrop in gentle harmony. RRP $95.00, 50ml and $135.00, 100ml L’EdT. On counter this month (October) at David Jones and leading pharmacies. Distributed exclusively by Escentials Brands.

Lano comes in a stick Lanostick is the new format from the famous Aussie-made Lanolips brand. It’s a 100% natural lip-balm-togo in 90’s inspired wind-up lippy stick. A rich layer of lanolin glides on like a hug of hydration – deeply and properly conditioning. Then the natural waxes seal the moisture in for hours. It is colour-free and the waxes mean it’s less glossy than the squeeze balms. Key ingredients are: lanolin, candelilla wax, mango seed butter and vitamin E. Available in David Jones, Mecca, Sephora and Adore Beauty RRP $18.95.

Maybelline’s Ink with attitude The Maybelline New York x Ashley Longshore limited edition SuperStay Matte Ink Lip Color collection features signature prints from the artist’s attention-grabbing designs that have been reimagined for the packaging of six, cultfavourite SuperStay Matte Ink shades. “Recreating my designs for the packaging of Maybelline NY’s SuperStay Matte Ink was an incredible opportunity to work with a new medium - my love of colour is always what really makes my artwork “POP” and the Maybelline shades selected really emphasize this. I have always found synergies between makeup and art as tools to express myself, and I hope this collection empowers others to do the same,” says Longshore.

Available in Priceline now (October 2019).

Leg attention Sally Hansen’s Airbrush Legs Illuminator™ plays into summer beauty. With a lot more leg on show, the attention focusses on what the pins are looking like. This body highlighter with HD light-reflecting shimmer, provides the illusion of longer looking legs with a healthy, radiant, illuminating glow to enhance and highlight the skin. The rollerball applicator and 60-second drying time means it’s quick and easy. In Nude Glow and Golden Glow, RRP $19.95, available now (October 2019) from Priceline and Priceline pharmacies nationally.

Burt’s Bees Watermelon Salvation Burt’s Bees Watermelon Lip Balm has a sweet, refreshing flavour that brings to mind bright summer sun and freshly sliced, perfectly ripe watermelon. The moisturising, 100% natural origin formula, with coconut & watermelon seed oil and beeswax, goes on smoothly and delivers deep hydration to dry lips, lasting up to eight hours. RRP $6.99, at Big W nationwide.

SISLEY SLEEPING MASK There are some products that ooze delicious and Sisley’s Sleeping Mask is one. The brand’s first repairing bed-time mask works its reparative powers so, upon awakening, dry skin is comforted and ultra-soothed. This luxuriously textured cream is referred to as an SOS comfort mask, for those who suffer from the redness and discomfort of dry skin. Night is the best time for the skin to begin its repair process. During sleep, mechanisms naturally occur to promote this nocturnal repair: • an increase of cell division leads to better renewal of the epidermis, which stimulates repair.

• an increase of microcirculation oxygenates and nourishes skin to give it the energy it needs to repair itself.

• a reduction of sebum secretion allows skin to be more receptive in absorbing active ingredients from skincare formulas.

Specifically formulated to promote faster and more intense night-time regeneration, the Velvet Sleeping Mask with Saffron flowers boosts the self-repair process. And for particularly dry skin, it complements the effectiveness of the Velvet Nourishing Cream.

Velvet Sleeping Mask 60ml AUD $165.00 on counter now.

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GLOW HYDRATE ENERGISE NEW

CERTIFIED NATURAL CITRUS ENERGISING MIST

VITAMIN C BRIGHTENING TRIO POP SHAKE GLOW 6% high-potency, freshly activated vitamin C treatment

HYDRATE with antioxidant lotion to extend brightening results

ENERGISE with NEW citrus mist to instantly refresh & invigorate

Made in New Zealand

For information about stocking Trilogy, chat to your local Rocket Sales Territory Manager, or contact the Rocket head office on: Email sales@rocketbrands.com.au | Phone (03) 5976 3737 | Fax (03) 5975 9562

NEW!

PIA MUEHLENBECK GLAMBASSADOR

A BRUSH W I T H FA M E F I V E

T O

C O L L E C T

Inspired by the latest Bec + Bridge runway collection, Glam by Manicare® merges fashion and beauty to add some sass to your makeup routine. Each brush in this must-have limited edition range is made using super soft and cruelty free bristles with textile inspired handles for a touch of designer glam. www.GlamByManicare.com.au

For more information please contact your McPherson’s Sales Representative.

AUST. Customer Service Freecall 1800 651 146

AVAILABLE AT