22.09.17
That’s a wrap
packing for the front line
Our edit of the best winter coats
by Emily Maitlis
The new social network
How to make friends and influence people now
PLUS:
Cool ceramics goodbye to Soho’s club King and get snooze control
James Norton on the price of fame
CONTENTS 5 Cheese, champers and cartoons in CAPITAL GAINS 7 Laura Craik on the fine lines of Botox in UPFRONT 8 Our MOST WANTED is The Kooples’ Emily bag 10 Oh wowee, FLASHBULB goes Bowie 14 Meet KAMILA SHAMSIE, the author blurring borders 21 How EMILY MAITLIS became Queen of capsule packing 25 Fair Isle gets fashionable in STYLE NOTES 26 Minimalist fragrances in MEN’S STYLE EDITOR Laura Weir
29 How to NETWORK NOW in London 36 The JAMES NORTON show: what the heartthrob did next 44 Our AUTUMN COATS edit 55 Saying goodbye to The Groucho’s BERNIE KATZ 59 Desktop skin saviours in BEAUTY 61 And so to bed… one writer’s struggle to SLEEP 65
Here are the five podcasts the ES team can’t stop listening to
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GRACE & FLAVOUR takes a slice out of Mother 67 TART roast the perfect tomato sauce 69 The boozers going big on cocktails in DRINKS 71 Cool ceramics in HOMEWORK 73 ESCAPE to Wells-next-the-Sea in Norfolk 74 Jason Atherton’s MY LONDON
HOW I BUILT THIS ‘I’m learning the ins and outs of being an entrepreneur on my walk to work each day with this podcast, hosted by Guy Raz (left). The interviews with brand founders and innovators are extremely inspiring.’ Katie Service, beauty editor
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POD SAVE AMERICA ‘This is a must listen for anyone interested in US politics (or who needs to sound well-informed in a rush). It digests the news succinctly and gives top-notch analysis.’ Alice-Azania Jarvis, features director
Cover: James Norton photographed by Michael Hemy. Styled by Rose Forde. MARNI sweater, £450 (020 7491 9966). HERMÈS coat, £3,270 (uk.hermes.com); Getty
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STUFF YOU SHOULD KNOW ‘I like to indulge my inquisitive streak sometimes by asking random questions like: how do psychopaths work? Or is a head transplant really a thing? Stuff You Should Know is the perfect way to find the answers…’ Sophie Paxton, merchandise editor
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HIP HOP SAVED MY LIFE ‘Romesh Ranganathan is a comedian who talks to amazing hip-hop artists about their careers. Expect to laugh hysterically and hear some decent tunes to boot.’ Helen Gibson, picture editor
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MY DAD WROTE A PORNO ‘Listening to Jamie Morton quote chapters from his dad’s erotic novel is equal measures of hilarious and horrifyingly cringeworthy. Either way, My Dad Wrote a Porno is well worth a listen.’ Clara Dorrington, picture desk assistant
@eveningstandardmagazine
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Editor Laura Weir Deputy editor Anna van Praagh Features director Alice-Azania Jarvis Acting art director Emma Woodroofe Fashion features director Katrina Israel Commissioning editor Dipal Acharya Associate features editor Hamish MacBain Features writer Frankie McCoy
Acting art editor Andy Taylor Art editor Jessica Landon Picture editor Helen Gibson Picture desk assistant Clara Dorrington
Beauty editor Katie Service Deputy beauty and lifestyle editor Lily Worcester
Social media editor Natalie Salmon Office administrator/editor’s PA Niamh O’Keeffe
Merchandise editor Sophie Paxton Fashion editor Jenny Kennedy Fashion assistant Eniola Dare Chief sub editor Matt Hryciw Deputy chief sub editor Nick Howells
Contributing editors Lucy Carr-Ellison, Tony Chambers, James Corden, Hermione Eyre, Richard Godwin, Daisy Hoppen, Jemima Jones, Anthony Kendal, David Lane, Mandi Lennard, Annabel Rivkin, Teo van den Broeke, Nicky Yates (style editor at large), Hikari Yokoyama Group client strategy director Deborah Rosenegk Head of magazines Christina Irvine
ES Magazine is published weekly and is available only with the London Evening Standard. ES Magazine is published by Evening Standard Ltd, Northcliffe House, 2 Derry Street, Kensington, London W8 5TT. ES is printed web offset by Wyndeham Bicester. Paper supplied by Perlen Paper AG. Colour transparencies or any other material submitted to ES Magazine are sent at owner’s risk. Neither Evening Standard Ltd nor their agents accept any liability for loss or damage. © Evening Standard Ltd 2016. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of ES Magazine without prior permission of the editor is strictly prohibited
22.09.17 ES MAGAZINE 3
Maitlis interviewing Anthony Scaramucci at the White House
Maitlis changing a tyre while on the road
former director of communications — on the White House lawn I had actually been trying to film a poultry farm in Delaware for the chlorinated chicken story. What began as my The navy Zara dress-down leggings day ended up coat Maitlis wore ‘for six months’ with an outfit splashed across every late-night US comedy show. That’s some sartorial dilemma: would I look more “would i look more stupid stupid wearing wellies in the West Wing or wearing wellies in the tailored to within an inch of my life on a farm, west wing or tailored to with chicken s*** stuck to open-toe sandals? It was the same thing at the Democratic within an inch of my life National Convention. We had begun the day on a farm with chicken filming in the ganglands of Philadelphia. I s*** stuck to my sandals?” had ended the evening behind the main stage of the Wells Fargo Center thrusting a mic in the face of Nancy Pelosi just before The hardest thing about dressing for she did the warm-up act for Hillary Clinton. Newsnight is the moving cameras. Something Something told me La Pelosi, Grande Dame that looks fine when you’re standing or sitting of Congress, wouldn’t stop for jeans and at a desk can look completely different when converse pumps — but our hotel by the it’s being shot with a low camera angle. And airport was too far for a detour. I don’t get a clothes allowance, sadly. Not for the first time, I used our hire car Over the years I’ve learnt to keep it simple: as my own personal Tardis for rapid change. the same three Tara Jarmon dresses come My cameraman, Pete, has learnt to avoid the with me each time. All A-line, which allows rear-view mirror at certain strategic times for speedy, unclingy change. All back-zipping when driving to preserve my modesty and for easy access to the mic pack, which perches our working relationship. on the back of my bra. One is black, inevitably
never leave home: Emily Maitlis’s six key grab bag items Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse. Multipurpose moisturiser for legs and arms — and even on hair when in heavy humidity. £17 (uk.nuxe.com)
Charlotte Tilbury black Rock’n’Khol. The world’s best eyeliner — soft but smudgeproof for downpours. £19, at selfridges.com
Paule Ka shift dress and shrug — rolls into nothing and never creases. (pauleka.com)
Mascaro boots. Amazingly comfortably boots/shoes with a heel you can still run in — highly necessary when out on the road.
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Sweaty Betty contour crop workout leggings — for everything. £45 (sweaty betty.com)
Institut Esthederm Adaptasun face sunscreen. £35, at look fantastic.com Sunglasses. For when it’s noon and you’re made to stare into the sun so you can get the White House framed in the background.
for sombre news, one is white — for dark nights when we’re short on lighting kit and I need to use the colour reflectively to brighten the shot — and one is uncompromising red — for when you need to grab someone’s attention in a crowded press room. I take heels with me for confidence — and for when you are live and need four extra inches to properly frame the shot against the right backdrop. The camera crew decides when the heels come or go. Then there’s the coat — which, I’ve learnt, can define on-air appearances more than you realise. For the six months that I wore a navy Zara coat with gold buttons, my editor insisted on only calling me Captain Birdseye. I can’t remember if I got sick of the coat before the jokes or vice versa. But when I took it to a New Hampshire Trump rally on Veterans’ Day I got pushed to the front of the queue by his new press officer. I’m sure she assumed I was armed forces. For every other occasion I take my Sweaty Betty running kit. Partly because it’s my daily staple that allows me the chance to clear my head each morning. Partly because it’s a way of being quietly and comfortably invisible for those moments when you are trying to fade into the background on a complicated shoot. An airline blanket doubles as a scarf and occasionally a changing room. A blue sleeveless Uniqlo puffa is my last obsession. Inside pockets work well when you think you’re about to be mugged. It may sound neurotic, this overconcentration on wardrobe. But it no longer seems that way to me. What you wear says volumes about you on the road. It’s not just about practicality, or temperature, or modesty. It speaks to whether you have fundamentally understood the story you’re covering and the situations it may take you into. And what of the coffee pot? Has that remained a core item of the grab bag, post sock-boiling incident? It has. It came to Cleveland, Ohio. It caught fire. Its handle melted all over the Gaggenau gas ring of our Airbnb. I, Master of the Perfectly Packed Carryon Tiny Suitcase, am currently rethinking that one. I’ll keep you posted.
uniqlo long sleeve T-shirt, £12.90 (uniqlo.com). louis vuitton leather tunic, POA; trousers, £600 (louisvuitton.com)
“This industry is a roller
coaster” He made his name playing a psychopath in Happy Valley — now James Norton has Hollywood in his sights. He talks to Anna van Praagh about fame anxiety, the problem with being posh and why we all need to stand up to Trump PhotographS BY Michael Hemy stylED BY Rose Forde
Getty
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ames Norton is staring down the barrel of the lens, narrowing his ice blue eyes, running a hand through his wavy blond hair and changing the position of his arms for the camera. The shoot is running late but Norton — who, by the way, is intimidatingly good-looking, embarrassingly good-looking, so good-looking that it’s awkward — is the picture of patience and charm. Later, when we sit down together in a grotty pub in Kensington he’s so polite that we argue for a while over who is going to buy whom a glass of fizzy water (he wins). He’s scruffier in real life, wearing worn black vegan Veja trainers (‘I love them because everything’s sustainable and ethically minded’), Levi’s (‘which probably aren’t so vegan’), a ‘crappy old white Tshirt, which I live in’ and a jacket he bought this summer at Gilles Peterson’s Worldwide
James Norton as Alex Godman with Maria Shukshina as Oksana in the BBC’s McMafia
Festival, where he ‘raved like I was 19’. God knows he deserves a break after a whirlwind three years since he gave the performance of a liftetime as psychopath Tommy Lee Royce in Sally Wainwright’s BBC drama, Happy Valley. The finale was watched by 10 million people, and before long you couldn’t switch on the telly without seeing Norton on every channel, playing a crime-fighting 1950s cleric on ITV in Grantchester, and Prince Andrei in the BBC drama War and Peace. Now his star is set to go stratospheric with a lead role in the remake of the cult 1990s classic Flatliners, co-produced by Michael Douglas, and a starring role in the new BBC series McMafia, which is being hailed as the new Night Manager. They are big roles and will propel him to another level of celebrity. Is he worried about becoming that famous? ‘Yes, it’s terrifying because right now it’s a lovely place where if we walked down the street maybe in 20 minutes someone would stare. Or you get the people on the Tube who
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Noel Gallagher musician
‘Godspeed, Bernie la. You were a King amongst queens. Who’s gonna call me gorgeous now?’
‘When I first met Bernie, he took my hand and whispered in my ear: “We’re the same, you and I, we understand.” He would grab my hand, hold it aloft and glide me into the room with maximum drama, often pausing centre stage to climb me like a tree and plant one of his infamous kisses on my mouth, ensuring every eye in the room was on us. He celebrated me and spoiled me. He showered me with love during good times and bad. Bernie always reminded me of that quote from Truman Capote’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s, “...glittery voyager of secure destination, with whistles whistling and confetti in the air”. Keep voyaging on, wherever you are, my brilliant friend. You will never ever be forgotten.’
Helen McCrory actress
‘I never walk down Old Compton Street without looking out for that leopard-print jacket, cowboy boots, fag on the go, black curls bouncing and a wicked grin. He’d seen it all, but it was his capacity for love that I will never forget.’ Damon Albarn
Getty Images; Capital Pictures; Rex Features; Alpha Press
musician
‘To the spirit of Soho/Its Golem moulder and knight/In rhinestones and green satin/Your faerie dust flight/ On to scales under world/For the tailor to sew/You a suit of small mirrors/ Reflections of you flow/On to all that have loved you so we can find you again/Sing Bernie forever our magical friend’
Jaime Winstone actress
‘Bernie made a huge impact on my life, he was my little big brother. I’m heartbroken he has gone. Disco will never be the same and neither will I.’
Actress and singer
‘Bernie was one of my closest, most trusted friends. He was this amazing, flamboyant, loud, talented, charismatic man, but when I would sit on his sofa bed in his flat, he was all mine. If I was ever feeling down, he’d lift me out of it straight away and we’d end up laughing our heads off. We’d talk a lot about his severely autistic nephew. My son has Asperger syndrome, so it helped to talk I think. He raised a lot of money for a charity that supports families with autistic children, with a photo exhibition — which was us members nude, of course. He was kind and loving — and absolutely f***ing wild! There are so many stories. Once a member of staff ran to him, panicking: “Bernie, there’s two people having sex on the toilet!” To which he responded: “Well leave ’em and let ’em finish.” That was Bernie.’
Noel Fielding
Kate Moss model
Gwendoline Christie actress
Lisa Moorish
‘Soho will never be the same again. It’s the end of an era.’
Jake Chapman artist ‘Difficult to find words to sum up a person who by their vivacity exceeded the very boundaries of simple friendliness by an incandescence that occurred with even the slightest brush with him.’
Chris Evans broadcaster
‘He told it like it was without ever making it about himself. I hate the fact that he’s not here any more. Hate it.’ Stephen Fry
actor and broadcaster
‘I never quite committed to what Soho stands for in terms of bohemianism and a full rejection of the bourgeois. Bernie was the real thing and joins Sebastian Horsley, Jeffrey Bernard, Muriel Belcher and John Deakin in the list of figures who made the square mile exceptional and disgracefully great. I called him the Prince of Soho because if princeliness includes charm, charisma, grace, warmth, liveliness and the right amount of regal style, then Bernie was as princely as anyone I ever knew.’
comedian
‘Bernie was a fusion of Keith Richards and Sally Bowles, with a touch of Alex from A Clockwork Orange. He would enter a room as if on wheels, arms flying like the blades of a helicopter. He’d regale you with a filthy anecdote and while you were roaring with laughter he would disappear in a puff of smoke. I only saw Bernie once in the daytime in Kentish Town and it was like seeing a genie or a unicorn. He was a mythical creature and I will miss him.’
Jude Law actor
‘Bernie’s theatre was Soho and his stage was The Groucho. He was our star. We were all just bit players.’ Sheridan Smith actress ‘He was always there with a kiss and a hug for everyone. A rare and wonderfully eccentric soul who made so many people feel like family.’
Sadie Frost actress
‘Bernie, one of my closest confidants, saw me through two marriages. He literally picked me up when I needed picking up — sometimes after giving me too many espresso Martinis — but then he would sober me up as well with coffee and cheese sandwiches. I cried on his shoulder and he on mine. He was an emotionally generous man. In the infamous naughty days of The Groucho, when we were all young, he’d carry me through the back door.’
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my london
jason atherton as told to lily worcester
Home is… Wandsworth. I’ve lived there for 12 years with my wife, Irha, and two daughters, Keziah and Jemimah.
yourself locked up there for seven days and not get bored. Best meal you’ve had? I had dinner recently at Claude Bosi at Bibendum (right). I think it’s going to be London’s next best three Michelin-star restaurant. I really fell in love with it.
Most romantic thing someone’s done for you? A couple of years ago for my birthday Irha booked a private table at Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester. Even though you’re in the middle of the room, it’s completely private. They did a beautiful tasting menu with wines to match. They treated us like a king and queen. It was a wonderful experience. What would you do as Mayor for the day? Clean our streets a bit more — I’m a bit of a clean freak. What do you collect? Super Tuscan wine; Irha and I both fell in love
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The chef eats pies at The Windmill and tips Claude Bosi at Bibendum as the capital’s next great restaurant with it a few years ago. We have maybe 300 to 350 bottles. Favourite pub? The Windmill in Mayfair. It does amazing pies. I normally go for the steak and stilton. Best thing a cabbie has ever said to you? ‘Hello mate. I recognise you.’ I went, ‘Oh that’s very nice,’ and he said, ‘You’re that chef aren’t you?’ I said, ‘Yeah, that’s right.’ Then he said, ‘Is your name Jamie?’ Where do you go to let you hair down? The most regular place we
go to is Chiltern Firehouse bar. The drinks are great and the bar menu is fantastic. The crab choux buns… oh my God, they are delicious. If you had to be locked in a building overnight, which would it be? The Connaught. Hélèn Darroze is an amazing chef, the new Jean-Georges restaurant (above) is everything you want an all-day dining restaurant to be and the drinks are just class. Never mind getting locked up there for a night; you could get
Best piece of advice? It was from Marco Pierre White. He said: ‘As a chef the only thing you’ve got to sell is the talent you’ve got in your hands and what you store in your brain. And the harder you work on that and the more you soak up, the more valuable you’ll become.’ Who do you call when you want to have fun? Angela Hartnett (below), she’s pretty bonkers. Favourite London discovery? In Soho there’s a tiny little Thai restaurant called Kiln where they cook everything over a barbecue. It’s become quite famous but I was one of the first to go. Jason Atherton is the new UK brand ambassador for Moët & Chandon
Getty Images
Last play you saw? Aladdin (above) at the Prince Edward Theatre. We’re good friends with Cameron Mackintosh so he gave us seats. It was the night of the Anthony Joshua fight against Wladimir Klitschko and a friend of mine had got tickets right up close. I’m a massive boxing fan, so I went home and told my wife and she said, ‘Ah, I’ve surprised everybody with Aladdin tickets.’ So I was like: okay, fine, family first.
Ever had a run-in with a policeman? We had a gentleman who urinated on the front window of Pollen Street Social where people were dining. He was very drunk. I went out to move him, but he wouldn’t budge, so my restaurant manager threw a cold bucket of water over him. The man then called the police.