06.10.17
frieze curated:
What to SEE who to know and where to go
Modern Muse
Masterpiece dressing this season
Plus:
IDRIS KHAN Nicholas cullinan and sue tilley
The Art
issue
London’s moment in the frame
CONTENTS 5 What a wheeze, it’s time for Frieze in CAPITAL GAINS 7 The art of uninhibited ambition in UPFRONT 9 Our MOST WANTED are Erdem x H&M’s kitten heels 10 Portrait of an artist: IDRIS KHAN 17
ART: a blagger’s guide
25 Hermès on spin cycle in STYLE NOTES 26 Thoroughly modern MUSE
EDITOR Laura Weir
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@JESSIECAVE ‘Jessie Cave is a comedian who pens hilarious illustrations about life that are so real you can’t help but laugh.’ Helen Gibson, picture editor
33 Freud, Fendi, Kate Moss… SUE TILLEY has seen it all
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39 The sweet smell of success in BEAUTY 45
GRACE & FLAVOUR tastes the magic at Ella Canta 46
Here are the ES team’s five favourite Instagram art feeds
TART roast some rainbow carrots
49 The Eastern promise of autumn in HOMEWORK 50 Nicholas Cullinan’s MY LONDON
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@SURREAL _COLLAGE_BY_SOLAR ‘Mysterious cut ’n’ paste junky sØlar nails it every time with his surreal cosmic collages. His non-digital work uses vintage imagery, scissors and scalpel, creating a lo-fi analogue feel.’ Andy Taylor, acting art editor Cover: model photographed by Natasja Fourie. Styled by Sophie Paxton. MARQUES’ALMEIDA top, £585 (marquesalmeida.com). ACNE STUDIOS earrings, POA (acnestudios.com)
@ATELIER_BINGO ‘Collage, screenprints and digital all feature in French duo Maxime Prou and Adèle Favreau’s fun, frenetic, colourful work that lights up my Insta feed.’ Niamh O’Keefe, office administrator/ editor’s PA
@ELECTIONARTIST2017 ‘The obliquely wry work of Cornelia Parker has charmed me for years. She is official “election artist” this year and her Instagram pages are full of gently witty visual one-liners about the state of the nation.’ Nick Howells, deputy chief sub editor
Visit us online: standard.co.uk/esmagazine • Follow us:
@MARGUERITELONDON ‘I love this snapshot into the world of Marguerite, the salon for women working in the visual arts.’ Dipal Acharya, commissioning editor
@eveningstandardmagazine
@ESmagofficial
@ESmagofficial
Editor Laura Weir Deputy editor Anna van Praagh Features director Alice-Azania Jarvis Acting art director Emma Woodroofe Fashion features director Katrina Israel Commissioning editor Dipal Acharya Associate features editor Hamish MacBain Features writer Frankie McCoy
Acting art editor Andy Taylor Art editor Jessica Landon Picture editor Helen Gibson Picture desk assistant Clara Dorrington
Beauty editor Katie Service Deputy beauty and lifestyle editor Lily Worcester
Social media editor Natalie Salmon Office administrator/editor’s PA Niamh O’Keeffe
Merchandise editor Sophie Paxton Fashion editor Jenny Kennedy Fashion assistant Eniola Dare Chief sub editor Matt Hryciw Deputy chief sub editor Nick Howells
Contributing editors Lucy Carr-Ellison, Tony Chambers, James Corden, Hermione Eyre, Richard Godwin, Daisy Hoppen, Jemima Jones, Anthony Kendal, David Lane, Mandi Lennard, Annabel Rivkin, Teo van den Broeke, Nicky Yates (style editor at large), Hikari Yokoyama Group client strategy director Deborah Rosenegk Head of magazines Christina Irvine
ES Magazine is published weekly and is available only with the London Evening Standard. ES Magazine is published by Evening Standard Ltd, Northcliffe House, 2 Derry Street, Kensington, London W8 5TT. ES is printed web offset by Wyndeham Bicester. Paper supplied by Perlen Paper AG. Colour transparencies or any other material submitted to ES Magazine are sent at owner’s risk. Neither Evening Standard Ltd nor their agents accept any liability for loss or damage. © Evening Standard Ltd 2016. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of ES Magazine without prior permission of the editor is strictly prohibited
06.10.17 ES MAGAZINE 3
capital gains What to do in London by FRANKIE M c COY
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Taco the town
Superhero SQUATS
Wildly inventive and wickedly delicious Mexican food is the Breddos boys’ raison d’être — and with their second, larger site on Kingly Street, there’s all the more room to play around, with breakfast quesadillas, a basement cocktail bar and all-new bone marrow nachos with dripping bread. Salud to that. Opens 7 Oct (breddos.com)
Want Wonder Woman’s body? How about Scarlett Johansson’s in Avengers? Better head to the Corinthia Hotel’s BodySpace studio from David Higgins, trainer to the stars, where Dynamix classes, flywheel training and regeneration pods should give you abs to kick the ass of any baddie. Now open (body-space.co.uk)
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Three tequila more, as Tequila & Mezcal Fest descends on The Old Truman Brewery with a partystarting ocean of agavebased booze, Aztec ceremonies, Mexican dancing and ‘sip and savour’ workshops to cure you from your salt ’n’ lemon slammer ways. £20. 7-8 Oct (tequilafest.co.uk)
17 Acute Unequal Angles by Bernar Venet
Alamy; Landmark Media
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One tequila, two tequila...
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arm yourself
On your marks: brilliant street artist Adam Neate is releasing precisely 18 multiples of a new artwork, The Hug, to buy exclusively through Elms Lesters Painting Rooms. Trust us, the kudos you’ll get with this on your wall is priceless. Available 5 Oct (elmslesters.co.uk)
Arty PARTY
Prepare to ponder your way around Regent’s Park as Frieze London and Frieze Masters kick off, with hundreds of global galleries and all the highly politicised art you could hope for, including a whole section dedicated to feminism since the Sixties, and debates about alternative facts. Tickets from £27.95. 5-8 Oct (frieze.com)
last chance: Go cry for Argentina before Andrew Lloyd
Webber’s musical Evita, charting the life of Argentine dictator Juan Perón’s wife Eva, closes at the Phoenix Theatre on 14 October.
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Charlotte Hope in Albion at the Almeida
upping the replicante
Blade Runner is one of the most loved cult sci-fi films of all time — so, no pressure on director Denis Villeneuve, as long-awaited sequel Blade Runner 2049 is released, starring Ryan Gosling and Harrison Ford (again). Book your Imax tickets now. Out 5 Oct
Brit school
Mike Bartlett and Rupert Goold have great form: the writer and director last worked together on King Charles III. Their new play is even more state of the nation-y: Albion, at the Almeida, explores Britishness in 2017. Let the clever comments about Brexit flow. Tickets from £10. 10 Oct to 24 Nov (almeida.co.uk)
look ahead: Poetry please, as the Southbank Centre
welcomes Poetry International weekend on 13-15 October, this year dedicated to saving languages through poetry. (southbankcentre.co.uk)
06.10.17 es magazine
upfront Laura Craik on forcing art upon
her children, Frances Bean Cobain and pointless surveys
cool bean It was revealed this week that Frances Bean Cobain (left, with mother Courtney Love) earns more than £70,000 a month from her late father Kurt’s publicity rights. She deserves every penny. £70,000 is scant recompense for a lifetime
Art house: looks from the Dior SS18 show. Below, Hockney at Tate Britain
“Tracey Emin once said that art is for everyone. What a shame it even needed saying” of trolling by angry Nirvana fans. After having the audacity to sit front row at the Saint Laurent show in Paris with mum Courtney, one charming fan took to Instagram to opine that ‘dad would be turning on (sic) his grave’. To which Frances Bean coolly replied: ‘He doesn’t have a grave. He was cremated. So… I’m not sure how that would work. Maybe he’s a whirling dervish.’ I love this girl. let them eat cake People in Islington find their lives the ‘least worthwhile’, according to a survey of 3,200 people conducted by the Office for National Statistics. My borough, Camden, fared only 0.27 per cent better. I’m not sure what the point of this survey is, other than to spread negativity, since we don’t all live where we live by choice. Anyway. A new café has opened in the good borough of Camden — Sam’s Cafe on Regent’s Park Road. Nothing is more cheering than a new place to drink coffee, unless you don’t drink coffee, in which case try the cakes. Hopefully, life will feel more worthwhile again.
HOT ChloÉ New designer Natacha Ramsay-Levi (above) worked with Nicolas Ghesquiere for 16 years, and it shows.
NOT Luxury toilet paper Destroying rainforests and ruining reindeers’ lives, according to Greenpeace. Josh Shinner; Rex; Getty; Alamy
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his being the art issue, and me knowing little about art, I figured I should conduct my usual rigorous research into the subject, aka: asking my kids on the way to school. ‘I like doing my own art, but I hate when you make me go to galleries,’ said the seven-year-old. ‘But I like the brownies.’ Fair play. Which of us has not toiled through a long, bamboozling labyrinth of overrated sculptures/paintings/dung while daydreaming about the café and wondering whether to have a flapjack or a cheese scone? Like the pot at the end of the rainbow, the brownie at the end of the exhibition is just golden. So far this year, we’ve dragged them to Hockney at the Tate, Grayson Perry at the Serpentine and God knows who at the Venice Biennale, where they gazed mutely at Phyllida Barlow’s jagged sculptural riposte to traditional monuments. My kids don’t get along with monuments. In January, we marched them halfway across Barcelona to view the Sagrada Familia, currently enshrined in scaffolding due to a 10-year maintenance project. ‘But it’s still being built,’ they said. ‘What a rip-off.’ At last week’s Christian Dior show in Paris, the first look was a Breton top printed with the legend ‘Why Have There Been no Great Women Artists?’ — a reference to art historian Linda Nochlin’s essay outlining why women were traditionally excluded from the art establishment. My daughters are still reeling from the news that women only got the vote 100 years ago, and can’t understand why women in Saudi Arabia have only just been allowed to drive. ‘Are they bad drivers, mummy?’ No, sweetheart: they just weren’t born with dicks. Tracey Emin once said that art is for everyone. What a shame it even needed saying. Of course there are great women artists, but think how many more there could have been had women and men always been treated as equal. Everything is possible, provided you don’t think it’s impossible. Which is why I’m going to carry on schlepping them round art galleries — and not just for the brownies.
06.10.17 es magazine
THE most WANTED HELLO KITTY: Footwear for Frieze? Erdem’s sparkling kitten heels for H&M are absolute purrrfection
Erdem x H&M shoes, £139.99, available 2 November (hm.com)
PHOTOGRAPH BY Natasha pszenicki STYLED BY sophie paxton
06.10.17 es magazine
The Progress 1000, in partnership with Citi, and supported by Invisalign, is the Evening Standard’s celebration of the people who make a difference to London life. #progress1000
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t is an urban adventure finding the north London studio of artist Idris Khan and his wife, Annie Morris. At Newington Green, you take a peaceful back alley Hackneywards, running past car repair workshops, allotments, the rear of a Victorian primary and some sizeable private homes. I am convinced I am lost by the time I reach four whitewashed warehouses with vaulted glass ceilings and, peering through a window, spot one of Morris’s signature multicoloured stack sculptures. A passing studio assistant finds me there — and takes me to Khan. ‘This whole terrace used to be Waddingtons board games,’ explains Khan, 38, the abstract artist, sculptor and photographer. He and Morris moved into their first studio here — previously a hummus factory — in 2011. They now occupy four adjacent units. Today these studios are a hive of activity in the runup to Khan’s forthcoming show at the Victoria Miro gallery, opening in its most prestigious Frieze week slot, when the art world descends upon London. Indeed, it’s hard to find a quiet space to chat for all the assistants sanding down canvases or gruff removal men passing through carrying giant sheets of glass. The past year has already been a momentous one for the dual heritage, Muslim-raised Khan. In June, he was awarded an OBE on the Queen’s honours list. This September, Apollo magazine named him one of its 40 under 40 global art influencers. Last November, he completed his biggest commission to date, a 42,000 square metre war memorial for the United Arab Emirates, in Abu Dhabi. In the spring, he celebrated a homecoming with a major survey of his work at the New Art Gallery, Walsall — the town where he was raised. He is also a panellist for the inaugural Evening Standard Contemporary Art Prize, the winner of which will be announced on 26 October (launched in association with Hiscox, painters can win £10,000 by creating a work on the theme of London). This winter he and his wife will travel to Mumbai for their first-ever joint exhibition. Are there close parallels in their work? ‘Annie’s an incredible colourist. I, er, tend to stay closer to black
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Citizen khan An OBE is just the latest accolade to be bestowed upon Idris Khan. Ahead of his forthcoming politically infused show, Patricia Nicol meets the acclaimed artist PhotographS BY sophia spring
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Dark and light: Top, close-up of Silence 3, 2017, by Idris Khan. Above, Khan’s war memorial in Abu Dhabi
Cardiff who converted to Islam to marry him. He was born in Birmingham but raised in Walsall, where ‘we grew up around the Islamic world of Walsall and Birmingham’. He is no longer a practising Muslim, but its rituals are an influence. ‘I like to show some of my heritage in my work,’ he says. ‘The part of Islam that has really inspired me is the repetition. You know, praying five times a day — a daily ritual of returning to something.’ He ‘fell into art’ after having to abandon his original childhood dream of becoming a middledistance runner. ‘I loved it, but just wasn’t good enough,’ he says, recalling the time he met the younger Mo Farah at an athletics meeting. After a foundation course in Walsall and degree in Derby, winning a coveted place to do a master’s in London at the Royal College of Art from 2002 to 2004 proved life-changing. ‘Being exposed to everything in London…’ he reminisces, ‘but also being surrounded by people who really wanted to be artists. There were 15 in my year who all wanted that, and that was so inspiring to me.’ He started off in Blackheath, but soon gravitated to Hackney’s burgeoning arts scene. ‘Such a great time: hanging out late at east London openings and meeting really cool people.’
“have i been a struggling artist? Sure, every day”
Khan and his wife, Annie Morris. Above, one of her sculptures
Khan was among the youngest of his RCA peer group, which included fellow successes Varda Caivano and Mustafa Hulusi. Yet his comparative youth does not seem to have been a hindrance. Charles Saatchi bought three of his college show pieces and he immediately gained representation from his dealer, Victoria Miro, who helped him find his first studio, shared with the painter Chantal Joffe. Raqib Shaw, the star artist he sweetly refers to as ‘my best friend’, was downstairs. Khan’s most recognisable works are perhaps the ones from his 2012 London series, in which he layered postcard images of the capital’s landmarks over and over. The images started out as a commission for The New York Times Magazine, which was looking for an unhackneyed way to profile London ahead of the Olympics. ‘It was a lovely series to do,’ says Khan. ‘As a Londoner, living here, and because I’d always wanted to explore those tourist images.’ He has since done another layering series of images for the magazine to accompany a story asking why young British Muslims were going off to join Isis. ‘When I took that commission on I said to the editor, “I really need to know what the title of the piece is,”’ he notes. ‘Because I didn’t want that image to be any sort of massive political
Getty; Stephen White; courtesy of the artist and Victoria Miro
and white,’ he says, grinning as he gestures towards the room’s large-scale black stamp paintings, built up by layers and layers of typography. ‘But it does make sense,’ continues Khan, who only the previous day was in Paris helping Morris, a fashion-world favourite, install four new works in a Louis Vuitton store. ‘We work alongside one another and very closely. We influence each other’s work, definitely, by discussing what we’re doing, what to do next and how to push it. We’re together, 24 hours a day — since 2007.’ The couple met when a mutual friend took Khan along to an exhibition of Morris’s at Notting Hill’s Allsopp Contemporary. ‘I remember not being able to take my eyes off her — and that was that,’ he recalls. Morris, the socially connected, Chelsea-raised daughter of a businessman, had recently come out of a relationship with the actor Hugh Dancy. She and Khan moved in together after three weeks. He proposed after five months. Their South of France wedding party — her, in a vintage Chanel hand-me-down from her American mother; him in Dior — featured in Vogue. The couple now have two children, Maude, five, and Jago, four, and live in a Georgian house on Islington’s Cross Street. On paper, the long-limbed Khan — dressed in a paintspattered James Perse T-shirt and joggers, a slouchy Club Monaco cardigan and comfy Nikes — could sound intense, even intimidating. In fact, he’s charmingly open and keen to explain his work and its personal context. He touches my arm solicitously as he guides me across the studio to show me a scale model of his forthcoming show, Absorbing Light. These most recent works have, in part, been inspired by testimonies from the survivors of Saydnaya Prison, Syria’s most notorious jail, where the regime of Bashar al-Assad is accused of detaining, torturing and secretly hanging thousands. ‘Sometimes stories, especially stories of conflicts, trigger an emotion,’ says Khan, who was haunted by one man’s account of being kept, along with 15 others, in a cell no bigger than 2.5m by 1.5m, in complete darkness for months. His show’s planned centrepiece will be a large-scale, 15-piece abstract black sculpture mirroring that cell’s dimensions, that explores ‘what it’s like for a viewer to look into dark’. He hopes this will also be a sculpture about light. It’s a 15, not 16-piece, imperfect square — there is a corner gap where he trusts the viewer will stand and catch beams breaking through. I ask if he knows the Leonard Cohen lyric from the song ‘Anthem’: ‘There is a crack in everything/ That’s how the light gets in.’ Because it feels important to stress that Khan’s work is not bleak. Even when he is producing vast canvases layered and layered with black paint or stamped with phrases so repeatedly that their meaning is obscured, it is light and nuance your eyes seek in the abstraction. ‘There’s always hope in making art,’ he agrees. Khan is the third of four children of a Pakistan-born orthopaedic surgeon father and the nurse he met in
statement, but instead a narrative of the story. The title was “Why do They Go?”’ His photography pieces can now sell for £60,000 and his large-scale paintings for nearly £100,000. Has he ever, I feel moved to ask, been a struggling artist? ‘Sure, every day,’ he remonstrates. ‘I’ve always wanted to create work that you fall into emotionally,’ says Khan, who has had pieces commissioned by the British Museum and been bought by major institutions, especially in the US. Presumably this quality, along with his understanding of Islam, helped win the competition to design the UAE’s firstever war memorial.
The sculpture, which took shape in just seven months, commemorates those lost in the country’s ongoing intervention in Yemen. Are they allied with the Saudis, there? I check. ‘Yes, I think that’s what happened, yeah,’ says Khan. The UAE is indeed part of the controversial Saudi-led coalition against the Iran-allied Houthi in a conflict exacting a devastating toll on Yemeni civilians. Khan’s striking Abu Dhabi memorial is made up of 31 aluminium-clad tablets not quite falling, ‘but almost supporting that notion of being held’. He lost his own mother five years ago and ‘wanted to create something, where someone could sit and think of anyone they’d lost… as well as these fallen. Walking through it, the grand scale, the light coming through… I think without me explaining it, that emotional pull is there.’ There have been times when both he and Morris have needed to fall into their work emotionally. In 2011, their anticipated first child was stillborn. ‘That was when I started making the stamp paintings,’ recalls Khan. ‘I would come into the studio and write down what I was feeling emotionally. Then there was something very cathartic about stamping those words away.’ Morris, meanwhile, explored her grief in a show titled, There is a Land Called Loss. Morris is a secular Jew. At their wedding party they had the playwright Israel Horovitz — an old family friend of hers — as an honorary rabbi, while Khan’s father stood in as a mullah. The couple’s children celebrate all the holidays, but are being brought up secular. Christmas is spent in LA, where Morris’s director brother lives. When the letter about Khan’s OBE arrived, he thought ‘it was a tax investigation’. He will take his wife, father and mother-in-law to the investiture
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The Houses of Parliament, London, 2012, by Idris Khan
in November. Some artists have spurned these honours, rejecting their association with the British Empire. ‘It’s a recognition of the hard work,’ says Khan. ‘Also, what I really liked about this year’s group was that it was the first time 10 per cent of nominees were from minorities,’ he says. ‘And I’m delighted my Victoria Miro colleague, Isaac Julien, got a CBE.’ Those teenage years of timed trials have taken their toll on his knees and hips. These days, he swims instead of runs, finding the same meditative release. I mention Haruki Murukami’s What I Talk About When I Talk About Running. ‘I love that book,’ says Khan. ‘My work feels quite meditative in that way running can be — that repetition. ‘With running, you are always straining to get to the end, with a very clear vision. I hope to have that same clear vision with my work, to never waiver: to push through an idea to get to the finish.’ Idris Khan, Absorbing Light, until 20 December at Victoria Miro gallery (victoria-miro.com)
Groomg: Celine Nono
“The daily ritual of islam inspires me”
what to see at Frieze London Hot on the heels of her Max Mara Art Prize for Women win at Whitechapel Gallery, Emma Hart’s thoughtful, honest and bittersweet ceramic sculptures get a solo booth with The Sunday Painter Gallery. Hauser & Wirth gallery has enlisted professor Mary Beard for a presentation of works in bronze from a fictional museum, mixing eBay finds with museum loans and contemporary artworks.
Untitled, 1989, by Cookie Mueller and Vittorio Scarpati
head back to nyc
Following her sexy-surreal take on the teenage visions of Saint Bernadette at the Venice Biennale, French artist Pauline Curnier-Jardin presents a new commission as part of the Frieze Film programme. One for the gorgeous goths and party people: Victoria Miro gallery is theming its display around nocturnal glamour, intrigue and magic. For Frieze Projects, artist duo Moon Kyungwon & Jeon Joonho present a work inspired by Taesung, an isolated village in the demilitarised zone between North and South Korea.
Alamy; Whitney Museum of American Arts; Courtesy Max Mueller; Andy Keate; Courtesy Hauser Wirth
Frieze London runs to 8 October at Regent’s Park
the
The 1970s and 1980s saw the Big Apple at its most rotten yet most creative, and London can’t get enough of it right now. The Barbican’s Basquiat show brings more than 100 works by the iconic artist together (to 28 Jan). Studio Voltaire’s chapel-like space houses Putti’s Pudding, the heartbreaking final work by the writer and actress Cookie Mueller and her artist husband Vittorio Scarpati (to 12 Nov). From the Vapor of Gasoline at White Cube Mason’s Yard sees the American dream in disarray, with hard-hitting early works by Christopher Wool and David Hammons, alongside littleseen pieces by Cady Noland (to 21 Oct).
art list The shows, the stars and the must-see pieces — let Hettie Judah curate your journey through the capital’s art scene
Hollywood Africans, 1983, by Jean-Michel Basquiat
listen and learn: the talks not to miss Frieze Art & Architecture Conference Where the worlds of art and architecture meet. Speakers include Sir David Adjaye, Sir David Chipperfield, Amanda Levete and Thomas Heatherwick. 6 Oct
Frieze Masters Talks: Marina Abramović, The self-styled ‘grandmother of performance art’, in conversation with Tim Marlow, artistic director of the Royal Academy. 6 Oct
1:54 Contemporary African Art Fair: Forum Influential curator Koyo Kouoh leads discussions on education and the knowledge economy with artworld figures including Hans Ulrich Obrist. 5-8 Oct (1-54.com)
Frieze London Talks: Nástio Mosquito and Mx Justin Vivian Bond A session of ‘sung lectures’ featuring charismatic performance artist Nástio Mosquito and ‘the best cabaret artist of their generation’, Mx Justin Vivian Bond. 8 Oct
seek out london’s rising stars Holly Hendry
Joanna Piotrowska
Physical connection and the body as a source of information provide Joanna Piotrowska with rich subject matter to explore in her uncanny large-format photo works. Her portraits of people in makeshift domestic structures were included in the exhibition, Room, at Sadie Coles HQ earlier this year. Her solo show, which includes elements of performance, is at Southard Reid until 4 November. (southardreid.com)
Candida Powell-Williams
Powell-Williams’s sculptural installations also act as platforms for performance works that she documents as GIFs. Her commission for Frieze Live — Boredom and its Acid Touch (2017) — is inspired by the marginalia found on illuminated manuscripts, imagining a modern context for such curiosities as bellicose snails and hybrid beasts. To 8 Oct (frieze.com)
Laurence Owen
Topher McGrillis; Amy Gwatkin; Holly Whittaker; Alamy
Working in ceramics as well painting, Laurence Owen’s highly coloured and graphically distinct forms often recall the visual language of everyday objects, made surprising and unfamiliar. Catch Owen’s work at Studio Leigh in Fickle Food on a Shifting Plate, a group show on the theme of consumption of which he is also cocurator. To 14 Oct (studioleigh.com)
Hendry’s sliced and multi-layered sculptures resemble geological models or magnified incursions into the body. Following her recent solo show at the Baltic, Gateshead, Londoners can get their own slice of Hendry’s plaster, jesmonite and marble structures at Pippy Houldsworth Gallery where her work Gargle (2017) is installed in The Box. To 21 Oct (houldsworth.co.uk)
Jonathan Baldock
It’s been a busy year for Baldock. After a national tour, Love Life, with Emma Hart and a solo show featuring breast-shaped chandeliers and other objects suggestive of a portioned human body (at CGP London), he has just started a residency at the Camden Arts Centre. A show will follow next year. Meantime, catch him at the De La Warr Pavilion in Bexhill-on-Sea for the last stop of Love Life. 21 Oct to 7 Jan (dlwp.com)
Zoe Williams
For the opening of (X) A Fantasy at the David Roberts Art Foundation, Zoe Williams created a vast banqueting table covered in sculptural cakes and phallic loaves that was slowly dismantled by a group of latex-clad performers. Her steamy fur-and-mirror work, Pel, remains on display in the downstairs galleries until 7 October. (davidrobertsartfoundation.com)
how to buy art...
by Sid Motion
With so much great art at our fingertips and more galleries and online platforms than we can keep up with, navigating the commercial art world can be daunting for new collectors. So when thinking about how to start an art collection on a reasonable budget, here are some points to consider:
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Buy things you love. If a work speaks to you, choose to live with a piece that makes you feel something. Think about the subjects you find important and seek the artists addressing them in a meaningful way.
2
Ask for advice. Gallerists and advisors are there to answer questions about the works they exhibit. No query is too small, but try not to get too caught up in buying something as an investment; it’s best to buy with your eyes not your ears.
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Art can be more affordable than you think: editions, prints and works on paper can be a great place to start. Non-profit organisations and even some of the biggest galleries sell limited-edition works online at reasonable prices, while schemes such as Own Art make collecting bigger works more achievable, too.
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Be open-minded to new artists and do your research. Get involved. Find out about artists and galleries you like; visit them and follow them on social media. Learn what excites you by visiting museums and art fairs and see upcoming artists at the degree shows of art schools.
read these: essential art-related tomes The Militant After Kathy Muse: Love, War Acker: A and the Women Biography of Surrealism by Chris Kraus by Whitney (Penguin) Chadwick From the (Thames & author of I Hudson) Love Dick: an A celebration of unconventional five female friendships biography — or ‘literary friction’ — of the punk poet at the heart of a maleand countercultural icon. dominated avant-garde.
Beg, Steal and Borrow: Artists Against Originality by Robert Shore (Laurence King) In the Instagram era, a spirited journey through the politics of plagiarism.
Vitamin C: Clay and Ceramic in Contemporary Art (Phaidon) As ever more artists get to grips with the sticky stuff, Phaidon offers a primer on ceramic art to get fired up about.
Ed Atkins (Rizzoli) A collage of imagery, graphics and text, including some of Atkins’ unpublished writings, from one of the most exciting UK artists to emerge in the past decade.
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WEAR THIS:
the best art-inspired fashion TRUE COLOURS Gosha Rubchinskiy’s sweater pattern ‘inspired’ by Kazimir Malevich is a dead ringer for the artist’s Painterly Realism of a Football Player (Colour Masses in the Fourth Dimension) from 1915, albeit inverted and re-coloured. A sure-fire way to court conversation (or fisticuffs) as you peruse Frieze Masters. £185 (shop.showstudio.com)
Art of GOLD Aquila cuff, £4,670 Courting Alexander, by Dorothy Iannone, above
TAKE IN FEMINIST ART & RADICAL POLITICS The punchy Sex Work sub-section at Frieze London celebrates female artists since the 1960s whose work addresses women’s bodies and sexuality in unsettling ways. Curator Alison Gingeras has brought together tough, provocative and at times mordantly humorous works by artists including Penny Slinger, Dorothy Iannone, Marilyn Minter, Betty Tompkins and Judith Bernstein. Many of these artists are showing with galleries that supported them in the face of indifference or even hostility from the wider art world. Frieze is an opportunity, Gingeras says, to ‘pay homage to artists who transgressed sexual mores, gender norms and the tyranny of political correctness.’ To 8 Oct
Artist and jeweller Alice Waese creates mini sculptures for the body that often display carving marks or rough textures that undercut the preciousness of their materials. (at hostem.co.uk)
Terra ring, £5,605
A LOVE SUPREME? A controversial figure since the 1980s, Andres Serrano’s photograph of a crucifix immersed in a glass of urine became totemic of the US ‘culture wars’. Not hard to see why the hype-loving skate brand solicited a collab. Andres Serrano x Supreme, Vans Blood and Semen shoes, £88-98 (supremenewyork.com)
I Was Thinking Of You III, by Dorothy Iannone
BE SURE TO ATTEND: this autumn’s must-see exhibitions
Getty Images; Alamy; Superflex
Hassan Hajjaj’s solo exhibition includes bold portraiture and a new audio-visual study of nine musicians, each occupying their own screen. To 7 Jan (somersethouse.org.uk) Disconcerting and at times downright creepy, photographer Torbjørn Rødland’s photo portraits and still life works are on show at the Serpentine. To 19 Nov (serpentinegalleries.org)
Crackling with sound and light, Haroon Mirza takes over the Zabludowicz Collection’s Kentish Town site with two major electrical installations. To 17 Dec (zabludowiczcollection.com) This year’s Turbine Hall commission comes courtesy of Danish collective Superflex, known for its irreverent social commentary through film and installation. To 2 Apr (tate.org.uk)
Installed within King’s Cross St Pancras Station, Broomberg & Chanarin’s new film work, The Bureaucracy of Angels, records the demolition of 100 migrant boats in Sicily. To 25 Nov (art.tfl.gov.uk)
06.10.17 ES MAGAZINE 21
Switch on: Susan Hiller’s Channels, 2013
blag your way through an art party
F get along to lisson Fifty years on from its first exhibition, Lisson Gallery remains based on Bell Street near Edgware Road, with founder Ai Weiwei’s Nicholas Logsdail at the helm. Odyssey Along the way it has supported some of the most important artists of the past half century, from Donald Judd The Lisson’s off- and Sol LeWitt to Ai Weiwei site exhibition is at 180 The Strand and John Akomfrah. It’s celebrating with Everything at Once, a stimulating multi-sensory off-site exhibition co-produced with The Vinyl Factory, and the book ARTIST | WORK | LISSON, designed by renowned Dutch graphics studio Irma Boom. To 10 Dec (lissongallery.com)
eat (and rest your feet) ICA director Stefan Kalmár has lured food critics’ favourite Rochelle Canteen away from Arnold Circus for its first off-site establishment. Kalmár describes the ICA as ‘a social body’ that needs to be fed with ‘the same passion and integrity that you will find in our programmes’. That means quail escabeche, braised cuttlefish and fennel, and an abundance of gin and tonic, of course.
Getty Images; Christopher Rudquist; Rex; Antoine Tempe
Melanie Arnold and Margot Henderson of Rochelle Canteen. Right, the restaurant’s skate aioli
by Sophia money-coutts
irst things first: don’t worry about what to wear to an art party. ‘There will never be a dress code,’ says a friend who works in the art world, and tells me a story about the opening of White Cube Bermondsey some years ago. There was apparently a scuffle at the door when a homeless man was stopped from entering by security, who worried he was after the free drinks. The PR quickly intervened, however, and a certain Turner Prize-winning artist was allowed in. Make sure you google the name of the artist and gallerist beforehand (‘most people don’t bother and look incredibly silly,’ says Flora Ogilvy, the glamorous, lipsticked founder of the digital art platform Arteviste), but once there, don’t enthuse too much about anything. ‘Use words like “challenging” and “provocative”,’ she instructs. Equally, if you find yourself standing in front of a painting that is blank apart from a load of small circles, and this painting is supposed to illustrate the migration crisis through the medium of polka dots, do not snigger. ‘You are allowed to say you don’t like something,’ says a gallerist, ‘except you have to call it “bland” or “inaccessible” or “derivative”.’ Take photos and Instagram Stories of the art and tag the gallery or gallerist, thus ingratiating yourself with them and other members of the art crowd whom you meet. And wear sensible shoes, especially if you’re going to Frieze, where you will walk past stand after stand of installations made of chicken wire and foam when all you’re trying to do is find the loo. Finally, the gallerist says: ‘A hip flask is often a good idea because the wine is often filthy.’
DOWNLOAD THESE: the apps you need now see saw
Find out what’s on, drop pins in the map and draw yourself a bespoke tour of the best gallery shows in your neighbourhood.
smartify
Visual art’s answer to Shazam — well, kind of. Simply scan an artwork on your phone or tablet for information, insights and curatorial wisdom.
art guide
The Art Fund’s app keeps you posted on the latest museum exhibitions, and alerts you to what’s coming up or closing soon so you never miss a great show.
06.10.17 es magazine 23
style notes What we love now
Claudia Schiffer for Aquazzura, £470 (aquazzura.com)
EDITED by KATRINA ISRAEL
Model moves
Claudia Schiffer has added shoe designer to her résumé with a new capsule line for Aquazzura. The eight-piece collection offers starry flats and high-glam stilettos that are both in possession of their own superpowers.
Beyond the catwalk
Fashion show maestro Alexandre de Betak’s new book, Betak: Fashion Show Revolution, chronicles the changing face of catwalk design. The volume showcases his lavish, 360-degree approach to show scenography, for brands including Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton and Mary Katrantzou. ‘Betak: Fashion Show Revolution’ (£69.95; uk.phaidon.com)
Sit squad: left, Aquazzura’s Edgardo Osorio with Claudia Schiffer
Tom Dixon Bump tea cups (set of two), £80; Bump tea pot, £100 (tomdixon.net)
Total transparency
Tom Dixon’s bulbous new Bump bubble vase and tea set is just the type of present that you buy and then never actually give. LK Bennett x Preen sequin dress, £550 (lkbennett.com)
Modern romance
la doublej aw17
Colour check
JJ Martin’s vivacious fashion and lifestyle brand, La DoubleJ, has decamped from Milan to London’s Liberty for a two-month pop-up.
The luxury laundry
Taking customisation to a colourful new level of luxury, Hermès is launching a pop-up laundromat, monikered Hermèsmatic, in Manchester. Here, clients can have their pre-loved scarves dip-dyed in one of three vibrant new colourways — denim blue, fuchsia pink and bright red. Did someone say road trip? 5-12 October. 31 King Street, Manchester
InSTARglam
Sometimes less really is more. Give your feed a palette cleanse with
@minimalmonday
LK Bennett has enlisted Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi of Preen to create a ready-to-wear capsule collection that has just dropped in store. The duo took inspiration from the botanical LK Bennett watercolours of Scottish architect x Preen dress, £475 Charles Rennie Mackintosh to envisage a wildly feminine 15piece collection that draws upon their signature floral prints, Victorian silhouettes, handkerchief hems and bold embellishments.
Follow us at @eveningstandardmagazine
06.10.17 es magazine 25
Studio styling Molly Goddard gathers her signature pleated tulle into textural brushstrokes MOLLY GODDARD dress, ÂŁ895, at Dover Street Market (020 7518 0680)
Private view Undulating tulle, a lightness of touch and painterly prints bring a stroke of style to the season PhotographS BY Natasja Fourie stylED BY Sophie Paxton 06.10.17 es magazine 27
Couture connection
Raf Simons transforms plumage into a feathered fantasy at Calvin Klein CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC dress, ÂŁ3,670 (calvinklein.com)
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Flying free
Painterly bird motifs illustrate Vionnet’s artfully draped gown VIONNET dress, £4,525 (vionnet.com)
06.10.17 es magazine 29
Child’s play
Freehand scribbles and doodles colour outside the lines at Claire Barrow CLAIRE BARROW dress, £1,800, at matchesfashion.com. MARNI shoes, £530; earrings, £530 (marni.com)
Portrait of a lady
Stella McCartney’s walking watercolour canvas reaches for the clouds STELLA McCARTNEY dress, £ 1,935 (stellamaccartney.com) Hair by Hiroshi using Kiehl’s. Make-up by Crystabel Riley using Absolution Cosmetics. Fashion assistant: Eniola Dare. Model: Elizabeth Yeoman at The Hive Management. Set by Julia Dias. Shot on location at Elms Lesters Painting Rooms (elmslesters.co.uk)
06.10.17 es magazine 31
Here’s looking at Sue Modelling for Lucian Freud, partying with the YBAs — now collaborating with Fendi. Frankie McCoy takes a step into the charmed life of Sue Tilley
Grooming by Neusa Neves
‘I
PhotographS BY hannah maule-ffinch
think she liked that I had a proper job in the job centre, but at the same this extraordinary life, working for Lucian Freud and going to nightclubs,’ explains Sue Tilley with a gleeful smile, a silk Fendi scarf glinting in her black hair as we chat in the Marx Room of Quo Vadis. That ‘she’ refers to Silvia Fendi, creative director of the Italian fashion house; that Fendi scarf is from the men’s SS18 collection and, like many other pieces, is sprinkled with Tilley’s cartoonish designs of coffee cups and lamps. And that ‘extraordinary’ life? The word is a huge understatement. Because Tilley, now 60, a benefits supervisor for more
Benefits Supervisor Sleeping, 1995, by Lucian Freud
than 20 years, was muse to Lucian Freud and clubbing buddy of fashion designers, YBAs and Kate Moss. Her latest, incongruous career shift — first illustrator, now fashion collaborator — came about through Fendi stylist Julian Ganio, a friend from those clubbing days, who showed Tilley’s drawings on Instagram to Silvia Fendi. The images fitted perfectly with the ‘mundane, but not mundane’ concept of the collection. That concept also sums up Tilley’s life perfectly. The lifelong job centre worker — ‘always keen on drinking and nightclubs since I was 14’ — was introduced to performance artist Leigh Bowery when she was 24 by the singer of Eighties synth pop duo Blancmange, Neil
06.10.17 es magazine 33
fendi telephone shopping bag, £1,180; green clutch, £725; banana bag, £2,580 (fendi.com)
Centre, Sue Tilley in Soho wearing a Fendi scarf featuring her drawings. Right and far right, her illustrations for Fendi
Arthur. They hit it off straight away. By night, the pair went clubbing anywhere and everywhere, especially Bowery’s own club, the seminal Taboo in Soho. By day, she had her job as benefits supervisor, the first job she was offered after signing on herself. ‘It was the same people who used to come and sign on who were in the nightclubs. When the Young British Artists were all the rage, I met them and they’d say, “You’re the woman from the job centre!” She recalls Sam Taylor-Johnson and the Turner-nominated Wilson twins, Jane and Louise, in particular: ‘They were declaring part time work, so it was all a bit of a palaver.’
“I don’t care that I’m fat. I think in that painting when I’m on the sofa, I look all squidgy and lovely” Then there was Freud, whom she met in the early Nineties. ‘The first time I met him, Leigh had started this club off Regent Street and Lucian came to it. I was by the door and he said — she does a posh accent — “Hello”. Afterwards he said to Leigh, “She had completely the wrong lipstick colour on for her face.” He had such a good eye.’ Obviously Tilley never wore that shade again. Freud took her to the River Café, where over lunch he asked her to sit for him. ‘I didn’t get paid much from him, but I used to get to go to the River Café twice a week’. They were experiences she was lucky to survive. Freud would drive them there ‘in his great big golden Bentley’; unfortunately, ‘he was the worst driver in the world.’ The River Café, she points out, is down lots of narrow roads and ‘he always wanted the right of way. He used to shout at people, do two fingers at them. He used to hold his nose and go like that’ — she mimes flushing — ‘like they were s*** and he was flushing them down the toilet.’ Freud was, says Tilley, ‘the most entertaining person you could ever meet. He used to make me laugh so much, I’d practically fall off the sofa.’ Because that was where Tilley was, for hours and months at a time, as Freud created the paintings of her that would go on to sell for millions. Benefits Supervisor Sleeping became the most expensive
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Left, Fendi SS18. Above, Tilley’sdrawings for Fendi
work of a living artist when Roman Abramovich bought it for $33.6 million in 2008. Not that Tilley herself was always impressed. ‘I hated the first one [Evening in the Studio, 1993]. It was horrible. It was me lying on the floor, all fat and horrible like a fat toad. And it was really uncomfortable as well.’ She was put on an enforced break after she came back from a holiday with a tan — ‘he was horrified, he hated a tan’ — and Freud wouldn’t see her for a year. One thing that’s never been a problem is Tilley’s size. She has frequently joked that painting her, Freud ‘got value for money — he got a lot of flesh’. Today, she shrugs, ‘I don’t care that I’m fat. I’m all about the body positive image. When you look at skinny people, they look no better, bones sticking out and that. I think in that one when I’m on the sofa, I look all squidgy and lovely. Like you’d want to lie on top of me!’ That is, if a certain supermodel doesn’t beat you to it. ‘Kate Moss used to work for Lucian as well. She once almost got me this job, modelling with her for Alexander McQueen, where she wanted to lie on top of me, to see what it was like. Every time I see her now, she still jumps on top of me.’ Perhaps if McQueen won’t do it, Fendi can arrange something for its next campaign, after the almost guaranteed success of her brilliantly fun, illustrated collection. Illustrations which feature her own corkscrew, complete with red wine stained cork. The banana skin is the remnant of Silvia Fendi’s lunch in Rome, snapped with an iPhone and sent to Tilley to draw 1,100 miles away in her St Leonards-on-Sea home. Tilley certainly wasn’t expecting those drawings to dominate the Fendi catwalk in Milan, where she sat front row. ‘I thought it would be a couple of bits, then all these garments kept appearing with my things on — swimming trunks, dressing gowns,’ she laughs. Exciting stuff. But only so much as the other highlight of her trip: the Milan supermarket afterwards, where ‘I bought two big chunks of Parmesan cheese, some black salt and a fancy pair of rubber gloves’. Sue Tilley: went to sit frow at Milan Fashion Week, came back with some cheese and washing up gloves. Mundane doesn’t get much cooler than that.
beauty by katie service
the exhibitionists
Set design by Kerry Hughes; Varese viridian curtain by Designers Guild, £69 p/m; Paint in Nancy’s Blushes, £43.50 (farrow-ball.com)
Four flamboyant fashion fragrances designed to steal the limelight
Dolce & Gabbana The One eau de toilette, from £43, at boots.com
Elie Saab Girl of Now eau de parfum, from £38, at houseoffraser.co.uk jo malone Green Almond & Redcurrant cologne, £94 (jomalone.co.uk)
PHOTOGRAPH BY Aleksandra Kingo STYLED BY lily worcester
Michael Kors Sexy Ruby eau de parfum, from £46 (michaelkors.co.uk)
06.10.17 es magazine 39
beauty
You beauty!
ON THE SOAPBOX
Grey lipstick? Just another fad? Not according to Maybelline’s global make-up artist, Erin Parsons
I
’ve been seeing a lot of grey-toned lips of late — I actually did one on Gigi for a shoot, which people were flipping out about on social media. It’s a tricky lip colour to get right because if you’re really pale or if you have a pink undertone to your skin, it might look a little dead. For grey lips the key is to wear colourful clothes. Gigi (below) wore a MAC Simply bright blue top with hers, which Smoked lip made it look really cool. I love colour, £17.50 (maccosmetics .co.uk) it when you match your nails, too, because I think it’s more of a purposeful statement and doesn’t make you look like you’re trying it half-heartedly. I’m endlessly inspired by 1960s icon Veruschka and her earthy claytone lips — I collect vintage Vogue issues — and they’re a great alternative to flat greys. At the Kith SS18 show in New York I painted earthy nude lips on models, with a swipe of bronzer down the front of the cheek to warm up the face. Avoid pink blushes, which don’t really work with grey nudes, and stick to something bronze or peach. These are a better fit for the lip colour. I don’t think you necessarily need to wear L’oréal Paris X lots of eye make-up with Balmain lipstick in legend, £12.99, it but I do recommend a at boots.com ton of mascara.
E Annabel Rivkin brushes up on tooth enamel
Natasha Pszenicki; Instar Images
Headspace
Cow face, a yoga pose, is great for releasing tension built up in your hips from being deskbound all day, says London-based yoga teacher Adam Husler (above). ‘Wrap your legs as much as possible with the ultimate aim to stack the knees (pop your bum on a block if you’re struggling) and lengthen your body forward, without collapsing.’
namel erosion. Sexy, eh? Shall I say it again? Enamel erosion. Not something that plays on the average mind on the average day. Because it is a furtive beast, enamel erosion, and one that causes most common tooth problems, from yellowing to cavities. You can neither see it nor feel its effects until it has stripped your precious teeth of their armour. If, like me, you find a trip to the dentist deeply traumatic, then you’ll want to know about Regenerate. I am in a cold sweat for days before an appointment — and that’s just a check-up. Horrid, the whole thing. Regenerate is the only toothpaste (there’s also a turbo-charged serum) that allegedly can reverse erosion and regenerate enamel; literally grow it back. That means building a completely different future for your teeth. Compelling. There are many aspects of ageing that we struggle to accept: we dye grey hair, we whack on the creams, we inject stuff. But what about ageing teeth? We don’t need to wait until we are toothless crones to protect our gnashers. If Regenerate works, which it might, it’s an opportunity to solve the problem before it becomes a problem. Your teeth could have the arrogance of youth. Now, these things are not easy to prove but all the damn science is in place. It’s to do with calcium silicate and sodium phosphate (again, sexy) which, when mixed, form exactly the same mineral found in enamel. If so, Regenerate is more than an insurance policy for your teeth, it’s an actual reversal of fortune. I’m trying it. It’s expensive. But less expensive than the bastard crown I’m booked in for next week. Pass me the Xanax… Regenerate Advanced Toothpaste, £10, at boots.com
Read your stars by Shelley von Strunckel at standard.co.uk / horoscopes /today
06.10.17 es magazine 41
feast
grace & flavour Mexican chef Martha Ortiz casts a spell over Grace Dent at Ella Canta
“I’m a huge fan of anything that transforms getting tipsy into some sort of noble act”
Ambience food
Jonny Cochrane; illustration by Jonathan Calugi @ Machas
I
worry often that Hell, when I eventually get there, won’t be the terrific debauched knees-up it has always sounded like, but instead a drab, up-itself celebrity cheflinked hotel restaurant. I fret that punishment for all my lust, avarice and greed will be to spend eternity in an eerily silent Marco Pierre White steak house in a Hilton hotel back room. Laborious, old-school silver service will be carried out begrudgingly to a clientele of regional TripAdvisor Stasi noting ‘the steak melts in your mouth’ bumptiously into WH Smith spiral pads. For these reasons I reserved excitement about iconic Mexican chef Martha Ortiz taking over a space in the InterContinental Hotel Park Lane. Ortiz’s schtick is a breathless blend of Templo Mayor high drama, wild-hearted swagger and magic realism, and the InterContinental is a loveless carbuncle on a roundabout. I just couldn’t see it. I also sense your pessimism that Ortiz tinkers with magic realism. But, for example, there’s a pudding at Ella Canta called Maria la Mexicana llega a Londres (Maria from Mexico arrives in London). It is priced at £10, bears no description and if you enquire about it the staff inform you Maria may not be available and that she is a person not a pudding, before assessing her current whereabouts in the manner of grown-ups talking about Santa. This all made more sense to me after a large, stiff margarita with Patrón Silver and guava marmalade. In fact, my whole life did. Suddenly, it felt logical to be perched in a Frida Kahlo cacti-strewn dreamscape, eating a bowl of nacionalista guacamole topped with a goldembossed grasshopper. Here is a menu divided
Ella Canta One Hamilton Place, Park Lane, W1 (020 7318 8715; ellacanta.com)
1
Guacamole £9
1
Ceviche
1
Tostada £10
1
Black cod £26
1
Michoacán pork carnitas
1
Nopal salad £5
1
Churros
£8
1
Corn cakes
£9
4
Margaritas
£60
£12
£24
Total £163
into ‘Main Acts’ and ‘Final Curtains’ peppered with semi-threats that Ortiz’s food is ‘a response to colours, textures and stories’ and would offer ‘a modernist expression of culinary cuisine’. Duly, I’d set out to Ella Canta in fear of going without dinner and being held hostage to plates of fresh air and fairytale whimsy. This was not the case. A vampiro sea bass ceviche in a mangosangrita sorbet was wonderful, zingy and welcomely non-stingy. ‘Okay, I love this place,’ I said, giddily, as a plate of pickled salmon tostada with chilli chipotle arrived from the ‘Overture’ section of the menu. The clientele is who you’d expect to see at a Park Lane address where they serve duck with plantain purée at £28; ergo, moneyed tourists, business diners and groups of well-heeled, very-definitely grown-ups. Still, for a hotel restaurant — and by Christ the designers have done their damnedest to mask this fact — the atmosphere was decidedly bouncy. Especially whenever a dashing, bearded man in braces appeared carrying a tray of various tequlias, mezcals and salted orange segments. I’m a huge fan of anything that transforms getting tipsy into some sort of noble act. See also: the Kagami Biraki sake ceremony and Burns Night. Mains, for us, were a sumptous slab of bacalao negro on a vivid puddle of ajillo guajillo, and an enticing take on Michoacán pork carnitas with a side of tortillas, which appeared in an odd, surely expensive, black kidney-shaped bowl. A nopal cactus salad, shouting with citrus, was highly decent. I was on my second margarita by this point and had my heart set on the corn and huitlacoche cake with a chamomile mystic sauce, plus a side of Ortiz’s take on churros with caramel and chocolate for requisite dipping. We even dared to question if ‘Maria’ was available this evening. Sadly not. Due to the earthquake, we were told, Maria was too sad to come to dinner. This felt perfectly feasible. And besides, they are all so adorable at Ella Canta it would have been like drop kicking a kitten to tell them I’m from London, I don’t have time for this s*** and I don’t believe in Maria. I don’t know who I am any more and I blame Martha Ortiz.
06.10.17 es magazine 45
feast
tart london Jemima Jones and Lucy Carr-Ellison make the most of new-season carrots with a delicious labneh dip
Sucker and sea: Lucy eyes up the catch of the day in Greece
Jemima Jones (left) and Lucy Carr-Ellison
L
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Serves 4 as a side
labneh and roasted carrots
For the labneh 1kg natural yoghurt 1 tsp salt Squeeze of lemon juice
Make the labneh as described in advance. When you’re ready to cook, preheat the oven to 200C and place all the ingredients for the roasted carrots in a roasting tin and toss to coat. Place in the oven for 20-30 minutes until golden and sticky. Remove the garlic cloves from the tray and leave to cool slightly, before squeezing the garlic pulp out of the skins into a bowl. Add the oil, lemon juice, maple syrup, salt and pepper and whisk into a dressing. Spread the labneh over a large serving dish, lay over the carrots and pour over the dressing, then finish with the coriander and chilli.
For the carrots 300g multicoloured baby carrots 1 garlic head, separated 3 tbsp olive oil 3 sprigs of thyme, stalks discarded 2 tbsp maple syrup 1 tsp dried chilli 2 tsp zaatar Salt and pepper For the dressing 2 tbsp olive oil Juice of one lemon 1 tbsp maple syrup Salt and pepper To serve Small bunch of coriander, roughly chopped 2 red chillies, thinly sliced
Josh Shinner
abneh is a word we see more and more frequently on menus these days. It is simply yoghurt, strained, so that it becomes thicker while retaining the sour yoghurt taste. Labneh is super simple to make. Perch a cheesecloth or muslin-lined sieve over a bowl, then pour in Greek yoghurt that has been stirred with a little salt and a squeeze of lemon. Tie the ends of the cloth together and leave to strain for up to 24 hours. When we’re in a rush, we speed up the process by squeezing the bag to help hurry the liquid (whey) out. This makes the labneh softer, but still perfectly acceptable. We often serve labneh as part of a mezze platter, spooned into a pretty bowl with a scattering of zaatar and drizzled with good quality olive oil. It’s perfect for dunking crunchy vegetables and warm pitta bread into. Here we’ve turned it into a lovely side dish that would be perfect served alongside chicken or lamb. We’ve been so excited about harvesting our carrots this year — back in spring we planted seeds not just for ordinary orange but for multicoloured carrots, too. And sure enough, when we pulled them from the soft soil there were orange, yellow, white and purple kinds. They’re great fun for adding colour to your Sunday roast. We planted Unwins carrot rainbow mix seeds, but you can buy your carrots ready grown at specialist greengrocers (our local, Parkway Greens in Camden, stocks them) or farmers markets. Try to get young ones, as they’re sweeter and more delicate.
HOMEWORK
Sleeping on the Roof fragrance by Floraïku, £250, at Harrods (020 3626 7020)
BY lILY WORCESTER Lvliang jar, £195 (oka.com)
Palace Portrait chair, £998 (anthropologie.com)
SEISAKUJO x Fennica Kokeshi doll by Beams, £35, at harvey nichols.com
Chinese Red Water Lily stationery by V&A, from £1.09 (papier.com)
ORIENTAL EXPRESSION
Fiery Orange candle, available from November, £48 (diptyque paris.com)
Design-savvy Londoners are looking east for interiors inspiration this autumn. With a recently launched pop-up in Harvey Nichols, Tokyo fashion and lifestyle powerhouse Beams is bringing modern Japanese artistry to London: a highlight of its elegant edit being the vibrant Kokeshi dolls. Over at Chaplins in Chelsea Harbour, meanwhile, Chinese artist Jacky Tsai has collaborated with British furniture manufacturer Mineheart, producing a collection that infuses traditional Chinese prints with pop art. Out hero item? The Save Empress Wu cabinet, with its exotic floral print and cheeky mythological motifs.
The Designers Nursery print, £29.95, at trouva.com
Save Empress Wu cabinet by Jacky Tsai X Mineheart, £3,745, at chaplins.co.uk Mamounia Sky by Martyn Lawrence Bullard, £1,735 per sq m, at therug company. com
Wallpaper, from £824 per panel (degournay.com)
Xanadu Red silk cushion, from £80 (bivain.com) Jardin d’Osier ashtray, £445 (uk.hermes.com)
Printed silksatin twill blouse by Gucci, £1,380, at net-aporter.com
Orientalist hand wash, £25 (tomdixon.net)
06.10.17 es magazine 49
my london
nicholas cullinan as told to lily worcester
Home is… Oval — I moved there two years ago when I came back from New York. I’m a dedicated south Londoner. If you could buy any London building and live there, which would it be? Admiralty Arch (above) — it would make my walk to work much quicker.
Where would you recommend for a first date? Andy Warhol said: ‘I believe in low lights and trick mirrors.’ So I’d go somewhere with some atmosphere and where it’s quiet so you can have a good chat, like Andrew Edmunds (above). What would you do if you were Mayor for the day? I would cut the internet so that people could look up from their screens and talk to each other. Favourite London pub? The Holly Bush in Hampstead is a nice place to go to after a swim in Hampstead Ponds, and also perfect for a Sunday roast. It used to be George Romney’s house — he is one of my favourite British artists. Last play you saw? I saw Thomas Ostermeier’s electrifying production of Richard III at the Barbican earlier this year. I don’t go to the theatre as much as I would like, but I do see a lot of dance and opera. In July I went to see Otello at Covent Garden with Elizabeth Peyton — she painted Jonas Kaufmann (right), who was performing in that production.
50 es magazine 06.10.17
The director of the National Portrait Gallery gets trendy at Frank’s Cafe and takes dating advice from Andy Warhol Which shops do you rely on? Thomas Heneage in St James’s for art books. If you had to be locked in a building overnight, which would it be? The V&A — it would be great to have all those galleries to yourself. Favourite London discovery? Rivoli Ballroom in Brockley — it was the setting for Tina Turner’s ‘Private Dancer’ video and is the perfect place to throw a party.
Where do you go to let your hair down? Frank’s Cafe (left) in Peckham; it’s on the roof of a multi-storey car park and has spectacular views across London. Best meal you’ve had? Xu on Rupert Street; it’s a Taiwanese restaurant and the food (right) is excellent. I recently went with my friend Angela Choon, who is senior partner at David Zwirner gallery. She always knows the best restaurants to go to.
What was the last album you bought? I listen to a lot of music. Right now, I’m into Ady Suleiman, who is just about to release his first album. Best piece of advice you have been given? Paris is Burning is a documentary from the early Nineties about ball culture in New York. The closing scene is of Dorian Corey doing his makeup, saying, ‘Pay your dues and just enjoy it. If you shoot an arrow and it goes real high, hooray for you.’ Wise words. Nicholas Cullinan is speaking at Cliveden Literary Festival on 14 October (clivedenliteraryfestival.org)
The Progress 1000, in partnership with Citi and supported by Invisalign, is the Evening Standard’s celebration of the people who make a difference to London life. #progress1000 Alamy; Rex; Jan Vrhovnik; Chris Floyd
Who’s your hero? Cy Twombly (Second Voyage to Italy, left). I worked on the Tate Modern show in 2008 with him. It was a privilege spending so much time with such a great artist and I guess it left an impression on me.