Ivanka & Karlie YOUTHQUAKE The new-gen agitators making politics swing
Can their friendship survive the presidency?
hair Colour me happy hats off: Inside Chanelâ€™s millinery sensation and hanging out with levison wood
Hot romance Press print on summerâ€™s new florals
contents 5 Daytime raves and diamond faves in CAPITAL GAINS
6 Meet the Twags in UPFRONT 9 Our MOST WANTED is Burberry’s gabardine bag 11 It’s Mossy and the Primrose Hill posse in FLASHBULB 12 Hey! We predict a YOUTHQUAKE 17 Hats off to Maison Michel’s PRISCILLA ROYER
STYLE NOTES on White Denim 2.0 21 Rainbow kicks and sustainable fixes in MEN’S STYLE 22 What’s the story with IVANKA and KARLIE? 24 PATTERN MAKER: exotic summer prints 31 Travel essentials in BEAUTY 33 Brush up on summer’s HAIR COLOUR TRENDS 35 GRACE & FLAVOUR is in love with Darjeeling Express 37 Pig out on TART’S Asian pork baguettes 39 Get you with your MUSHROOM BREWS 41 ESCAPE to China’s Yangtze River 42 Levison Wood’s MY LONDON 19
EDITOR Laura Weir
COVER Model photographed by Lauretta Suter. Styled by Sophie Paxton. GUCCI dress, £3,230 (020 7235 6707). BEULAH scarf, £50 (beulahlondon.com)
Here are the ES team’s favourite summer reads
a castle in england ‘This is my read of the summer. It’s an amazing graphic fiction project inspired by Scotney Castle in Kent.’ Jenny Kennedy, fashion editor
The Handmaid’s Tale ‘I’m diving back into one of my all-time favourite novels now that Margaret Atwood’s dystopian classic is also a smash hit on TV.’ Matt Hryciw, chief sub editor
Hot Mess ‘Lucy Vine’s hilarious debut novel is about the disastrous love life of a girl in her 20s. It’ll feel like reading my own diary!’ Helen Gibson, picture editor
Conversations with Friends ‘Funny, intimate and poignant, Sally Rooney’s debut novel about two students who become entangled with an older married couple heralds the arrival of a phenomenal new literary talent.’ Niamh O’Keeffe, office administrator/editor’s PA
the wild other ‘I can't recommend Clover Stroud’s memoir The Wild Other highly enough. Stroud is a brilliant writer and has led a fascinating life.’ Anna van Praagh, deputy editor
Visit us online: standard.co.uk/esmagazine • Follow us:
Editor Laura Weir Deputy editor Anna van Praagh Features director Alice-Azania Jarvis Acting art director Wendy Tee Fashion features director Katrina Israel Commissioning editor Dipal Acharya Associate features editor Hamish MacBain Features writer Frankie McCoy
Acting art editor Andy Taylor Art editor Jessica Landon Picture editor Helen Gibson Picture desk assistant Clara Dorrington
Merchandise editor Sophie Paxton Fashion editor Jenny Kennedy Fashion assistant Eniola Dare
Social media editor Natalie Salmon
Chief sub editor Matt Hryciw Deputy chief sub editor Nick Howells
Beauty editor Katie Service Deputy beauty and lifestyle editor Lily Worcester
Office administrator/editor’s PA Niamh O’Keeffe
Contributing editors Lucy Carr-Ellison, Tony Chambers, James Corden, Hermione Eyre, Richard Godwin, Daisy Hoppen, Jemima Jones, Anthony Kendal, David Lane, Mandi Lennard, Annabel Rivkin, Teo van den Broeke, Hikari Yokoyama Group client strategy director Deborah Rosenegk Head of magazines Christina Irvine
ES Magazine is published weekly and is available only with the London Evening Standard. ES Magazine is published by Evening Standard Ltd, Northcliffe House, 2 Derry Street, Kensington, London W8 5TT. ES is printed web offset by Wyndeham Bicester. Paper supplied by Perlen Paper AG. Colour transparencies or any other material submitted to ES Magazine are sent at owner’s risk. Neither Evening Standard Ltd nor their agents accept any liability for loss or damage. © Evening Standard Ltd 2016. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of ES Magazine without prior permission of the editor is strictly prohibited
14.07.17 es magazine
capital gains What to do in London by FRANKIE McCOY
Out of Africa
Spin me right round
Octopus pepper soup, lamb ribs with asun relish (above), banga bisque — these are the summer dishes you need to know, as London gets its first high end West African restaurant, Ikoyi. Cacao nib-infused rum with lime flower, anyone? Opens 15 July (ikoyilondon.com)
Strap into your pedals, west Londoners, and prepare to sweat your way to an intense endorphin high: spin star Boom Cycle has opened in Hammersmith, serving hardcore cardio in the studio along with Grind coffee to keep you buzzing for hours. Classes £18. Now open (boomcycle.co.uk)
Girls on Film
Illustration by Jonathan Calugi @ Machas; Getty; Alamy; Graham Pearson
Peeping Toms stay away as Anne Collier subverts the overexposed male gaze in her new book, Women with Cameras (Anonymous), a collection of amateur photographs of women behind the lens. About as meta as photography books get. £35. Out now (houseofvoltaire.org)
Taking a Liberty love is in the air
Pull on your raving boots: London’s most deliriously fun music festival, Lovebox, takes place this weekend, as Frank Ocean, Rag‘n’Bone Man, Chase & Status and Solange take over Victoria Park for two days of dancing and roller discos. Best book Monday off. 14-15 July (loveboxfestival.com)
Diamonds are forever, and you’ll want to hunker down in the new Sotheby’s diamonds salon in New Bond Street forever too. The intimate new jewellery boutique is a veritable work of art in itself, displaying high jewellery curated by the auction house into sparkling collections like Twist and Belle Époque. Don’t tell your bank manager. Now open (sothebysdiamonds.com)
last chance: Wimbledon aces to a close on 16 July — catch the action at Chelsea’s Big Screen on the Green or Ralph’s Coffee & Bar in Mayfair. (bigscreenonthegreen.com; ralphlauren.co.uk)
Liberty is no longer just a beautiful store: it’s also taking on serious art credentials. Its summer campaign, The Dark Side of Liberty, has installations including a working recording studio in the windows from Belgian artist Joris Van de Moortel. Until 31 August (libertylondon.com)
Theatreland is inducing serious Fomo this year, and after John Tiffany’s The Glass Menagerie, the latest scorching ticket is another Tennessee Williams classic: the Young Vic’s Cat on a Hot Tin Roof, starring Sienna Miller (left) and Jack O’Connell in the sultry Deep South. Tickets from £10. To 7 October (youngvic.org)
look ahead: It’s a two-day plié party at the Royal
Opera House as the Mariinsky Ballet arrives with its fabulous ‘Anna Karenina’ on 3 and 4 August. (roh.org.uk)
14.07.17 es magazine
upfront Laura Craik on Wimbledon gone wild, Snap Maps and celebrity buzz cuts
route of all evil Snap Maps: a handy way to hook up with cute boys, or the end of civilization as we know it? Certainly the end of privacy as we know it, not that any of us enjoy the luxury of privacy any more: it’s estimated that there are 500,000 CCTV cameras in London alone, and six million in Britain. If you want to confirm your suspicion that all your friends are not, in fact, at Rihanna’s secret London BBQ/gig in Clapton but are sitting at home watching Netflix just like you, Snapchat’s new location-sharing feature could prove nifty. But given the vast number of children who use the app, it’s also alarming — particularly given that the feature is enabled as a default. If you don’t want anyone to know where you are, make sure you set it to Ghost Mode. And if you want to entrap your cheating douchebag partner, you know what to do.
es magazine 14.07.17
Chelsea May Samways on court, left, and leaving Cirque in Soho, below; ‘bored’ Australian player Bernard Tomic, right
“I’m more intrigued by the hot young female players than by the male players’ blow-dried wives” THE CHEEK OF IT Apparently, women are being exhorted to shave off all their hair, on the basis that three really good-looking celebrities with nextlevel cheekbones have shaved off theirs. Grab the hair clippers! A buzz cut is the next big thing! Not if you have jowls, a lantern jaw, or a head shaped like a potato. Sure, at the Chanel show in Paris, Cara Delevingne, Kristen Stewart and Katy Perry looked undeniably foxy with their shorn-off locks, but then again, they’d also look good bald. If you don’t have the bone structure of Adwoa Aboah (surely the most beautiful woman who ever lived), you’d better take a leaf out of Celine Dion’s book and Katy think twice. NB: don’t you be Perry getting any ideas either, Celine.
HOT Louis Vuitton x Supreme Predictably selling for well over the odds on eBay. £1,700 for a T-shirt? £4,800 for a keepall? Believe it, baby.
NOT Conditioner Could be giving you bacne, says Kendall Jenner’s dermatologist.
Josh Shinner; Getty; Alamy
his being Wimbledon season, inevitably talk has turned to Twags, aka Tennis Wives and Girlfriends, aka Ladies with Improbably Lustrous Hair, White Teeth and a Penchant for Sheath Dresses, Often (Inexplicably) in Polka Dot. LILHWTPSDO(I)PDs, if you will. Setting aside the contentious issue of whether a Twag is a Tennis Wife or a Tech Wife, I have to confess that I’ve been more intrigued by the hot young female players than by the male players’ blow-dried wives. Who is more compelling: a thirtysomething woman with a rictus grin and dubious taste in hosiery, or a young wannabe tennis champ? Which brings us to Chelsea May Samways, the 18-year-old Brit whose 1,278= ranking in the women’s doubles may not be causing Serena Williams to lose much sleep, but give her time. Wimbledon isn’t the only club to which Samways is partial: she was recently spotted leaving Soho’s Cirque with fellow tennis player Monique Belovukovic, also 18, both of whom were allegedly getting friendly with world No 20, Nick Kyrgios. Who has a girlfriend. Allegedly. A quick scroll through Samways and Belovukovic’s Instagram feeds will do little to assuage said girlfriend’s fears. And to think Anna Kournikova was once considered risqué for appearing in an Enrique Iglesias video. Meanwhile, Australian Bernard Tomic has been fined £11,600 for saying he was ‘bored’ during a match and had faked injury. What with this and suspicions that injured players are turning up simply to claim prize money, it’s all adding up to a colourful Wimbledon. What was it Monica Seles said? Tennis has to become everything to you if you’re going to make it to the top.
THE most WANTED Inspired by its iconic gabardine trench, Burberryâ€™s DK88 bag is named after the in-house code for the fabric
Burberry medium DK88 leather bag, ÂŁ1,695 (burberry.com)
PHOTOGRAPH BY Baker & evans STYLED BY sophie paxton
14.07.17 es magazine
FLASHBULB! Party pictures from around town by FRANKIE McCOY photographs by james peltekian
Jasmine Guinness Bobby Gillespie
Totes obsessed St James
Cult Nineties fragrance met 18th-century opulence at Spencer House, as Calvin Klein showed off its newly reinvented scent, Obsessed, to Brooklyn Beckham, Winnie Harlow and Ella Richards — to everyone, in fact, but the face of Obsessed, Kate Moss. Then, just as the champagne was beginning to dry up, in she burst to greet photographer/BFF Mario Sorrenti. Proof that nothing comes between Mossy and her Calvin Klein.
Guinevere Van Seenus Maddie Mills Yasmin Mills
Mary Charteris Pixie Geldof
Paul Simonon Jade Thirlwall
AJ Odudu Louise Roe
Dougie Poynter Jamie Reynolds
Jackie Hamilton -Smith
Rockin’ roll Mayfair
The Primrose Hill set slipped on its best silk and sashayed down to the plush basement of Park Chinois to celebrate the Selfridges pop-up of scarf label Rockins. Sienna Miller sipped Cîroc while Sadie Frost and Jamie Hince watched naked dancers cavort — one reveller got over-excited and scribbled hashtags in lipstick all over the bathroom mirror.
GO TO eveningstandard.co.uk / ESMAGAZINE FOR MORE PARTY PICTURES
Charlotte Wiggins Sam Rollinson
What a racquet Wimbledon Everyone for tennis, as Johanna Konta smashed her way through the first day of Wimbledon, watched by a pick’n’mix-scoffing Pixie Geldof, Sam Rollinson and Douglas Booth from the Evian suite. Drinks were less mineral water, more Pimm’s and champagne. But all hydration is good hydration, right?
14.07.17 es magazine 11
generation Around the world a new guard is finding its political voice. John Arlidge reports on the global youthquake shaking up the status quo
ezza has a bigger crowd than Radiohead did and I LOVE it,’ tweeted @moaninglsasmile. ‘They need to f*** Ed Sheeran off and let Corbs headline Glastonbury,’ said @coso9001. ‘Just witnessed a silent disco crowd chant “Oh Jeremy Corbyn” to “Seven Nation Army” and it was a beautiful thing,’ raved @elenistefanou. Glastonbury-goers are more used to channelling Lennon than Lenin but the Labour leader was the unlikely star of the music festival last month. If anyone thought the youth uprising that helped to deliver Labour’s unexpectedly strong result was a one-off event, the rapturous reception Corbyn received at Worthy Farm disproved it. ‘Young people can and do care about politics — they are simply underestimated,’ says Dr Daniel Nilsson DeHanas, lecturer in political science and religion at King’s College London. ‘If political leaders took them more seriously, I have no doubt that we would vastly improve our political conversations.’ The rise of youth engagement has surprised many older campaigners and commentators. In the run up to the snap election, many who suggested a high youth turnout was the only way to topple the Tories often sounded desperate. ‘18-24 year olds,’ wrote The Thick Of It creator, Armando Iannucci, ‘I beg you on my gnarled and brittle knees; register to vote, and then vote.’ We now know that he needn’t have worried so much: they turned up at polling stations in what DeHanas calls ‘incredible’ numbers. In 2015 just 43% of voters aged 18 to 24 went to the polls. This time, some 57% of voters aged 18 to 19 voted, while turnout among those aged 20 to 24 was 59%. Among 25 to 29-year-olds turnout was higher still, at 64%. Age replaced class as the most important predictor of voting Labour or Conservative. According to Ipsos Mori, 62% of 18-24s supported Labour and only 27% backed the Conservatives, while 61% of over-65s
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supported Conservatives and only 25% backed Labour. This political youthquake is not just happening in the UK. Around the world, a new generation is experiencing its political awakening. In Russia, a place where largescale demonstrations are relatively rare, opposition politician Alexei Navalny has sparked protests against the Kremlin all across the nation. They’ve made waves not only for their scale but because of the involvement of young people, previously assumed to be politically apathetic. Meanwhile, in France Emmanuel Macron and his En Marche movement swept to power on the back of the young; in the US Bernie Sanders energised the youth, as has Podemos in Spain. As for Donald Trump — well, he’s certainly galvanised young people to take to the streets in protest, just not in the way he planned. ‘The key change is the rise of networked individualism,’ says Paul Mason, the pro-Corbyn Guardian columnist who has become something of a poet laureate for the young Left in Britain. ‘The self is at the centre of the world for young people — but it’s a networked self. What the old generation sees as self-centredness is actually a set of mental connections.’ The rise of conservative movements, notably the alt-right or Red Pill movement in the USA, has sparked ‘a culture war much more extreme than the one experienced via mainstream media — and the result is a higher level of commitment and engagement once engaged. That’s the true meaning of the “Oh, Jeremy Corbyn” song.’
Steve Bartlett, co-founder of digital marketing company Social Chain
Why is this happening — and why now? Economics are working against the youth, for one thing, making them so mad they want to get even. The recession hit the young hard. University tuition fees are rising and skyrocketing house prices mean many cannot afford to live in our biggest cities. Protection for the elderly, notably in the form of the triple lock to safeguard the value of pensions and guaranteed winter fuel payments, convinced many young people that the economic game is rigged against them.
“Thanks to the social media revolution, the new generation now regard themselves as global citizens” But there’s much more than economics at play — which may explain the global nature of the trend. A sense of shifting identities has changed how young people view themselves — and one another. Thanks to globalisation
and the social media revolution, the new generation now regard themselves as global citizens. ‘Human rights, the environment and cultural diversity were big themes for young people — dividing them culturally from older cohorts,’ says James Sloam of the Youth Politics Unit at Royal Holloway University. Such identities became particularly pertinent in the UK in the run-up to the European referendum. Of those who went to the polls, 73% of 18 to 24-year-olds voted Remain, as did 62% of 25 to 34-year-olds; 60% of those over 65 voted Leave. But it’s relevant more broadly too — where young people see their peers enjoying rights and freedoms in one part of the world, they expect to enjoy them where they are too. And vice versa: so it is that young women in London sport Repeal the 8th T-shirts and totes to support the right of women in Ireland to access abortion. Technology plays another role, too. New platforms have helped to turn young people’s anger into coherent
Top, crowds cheer for Jeremy Corbyn at Glastonbury. Above, young supporters at one of Corbyn’s election campaign events
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Protests in New York in February against Trump’s travel ban
Avaaz celebrating a law passed in Belgium to protect internet democracy
A Moscow protest against political corruption
A London rally against Trump organised by Avaaz
A demo outside the National Congress in Brasilia
political movements. Look at Labour’s election campaign: instead of using the old tools of paid for advertising on TV and billboards, or courting traditional media power players, the party embraced viral video and Facebook Live. It worked brilliantly. ‘Daddy, why do you hate me?’ — a mock political broadcast asking people to vote for Theresa May ‘because your children deserve worse’ — was viewed more than 7.6 million times across social media. Momentum claims its videos were watched by more than 22% of Facebook’s British users, some 9.8 million people. ‘More than 20 years ago Tony Blair cleared his diary and packed his bags for a fleeting trip to Australia to convince Rupert Murdoch to use his newspapers to support New Labour,’ says Jim Waterson, the Buzzfeed political editor who has chronicled the rise of the young. ‘But in 2017 Jeremy Corbyn’s team decided they didn’t need to deal with The Sun at all.’ Likewise, in the US, anti-Trump activists have used social media to organise protests against their controversial President. The recent global women’s marches began as a Facebook event calling for a march on Washington after Trump’s inauguration. Subsequent protests have made similar use of social media. And in Russia, Navalny has taken to social media and started his own channel on YouTube to get his message across. Tens of millions have watched his videos. Digital marketing company Social Chain, which has offices in Manchester, New York and Berlin, claims to be able to make anything trend within 26 minutes. The company has worked with the likes of Apple, the BBC and Spotify — and at the most recent election partnered with Rize Up, a non-profit seeking to inspire political change by getting more young people to vote. It generated a ‘thunderclap’ — posting through multiple accounts at once to saturate social media with a particular message — urging young people to register to vote. The stunt was followed by several others, including posting ‘calls to action’ on popular pages such as Student Problems. By the deadline for voter registrations, well over 1.5 million young people had registered to vote since the election had been called. Then there are campaign organisations such as Avaaz, whose petitions and projects are managed by a team working from more
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Top, a stunt portraying Rupert Murdoch as controlling Westminster; Above, a flash mob in Rome promoting the anti-Trump campaign
than 30 different countries. They communicate with their 44 million members all over the world using emails with petitions, media friendly stunts and sit-ins to get their message across. Campaigns have ranged from protests against corruption in Brazil to rallying in support of gay pride in Rome. Will the youthquake last and where will it lead? ‘There is something of a life-cycle effect — people do tend to become more conservative as they age,’ says Sloam. ‘However, not as much as people think.’ In the UK, he argues, ‘young people are much more pro-Labour and economically left-wing than the previous generation of young people. Whether this trend continues depends on the ability of the Conservative Party to pitch policies to this pro-immigration, pro-EU, pro-public spending demographic, especially young women.’
“Instead of using the old tools of paid for advertising on TV and billboards, the labour party embraced viral video and Facebook Live. It worked brilliantly” The Tories know they have some catching up to do and are already working to stop Corbyn and his supporters’ progress with new social media strategies. The party must win over ‘young metropolitan’ voters to stay in power, MP Damian Green — a senior aide to Theresa May — has warned. For its part, Momentum is already gearing up for a fresh election before Christmas. A campaign to reduce the voting age to 16 is hotting up, which could permanently re-draw the political battle lines in Britain, shifting the centre of political gravity to the left. ‘Both Labour and the Tories will have to reconfigure not only their policies but above all the way they formulate them,’ says Mason. ‘At the end of every queue for the under-30s is a choice: skinny latte or full fat, personalised trainers or exclusive skateboardwear — they’ll want to shape the political parties at a similar level of detail.’
queen of hats
Chanel’s cult hat label Maison Michel is loved by everyone from Alexa Chung and Kate Moss to Pharrell Williams. Clare Coulson meets its creative director Priscilla Royer
PhotographS BY louise haywood-schiefer
Getty; Photoshot; Landmark Media
or a woman who spends her every waking hour working with them, it’s lucky Priscilla Royer looks fantastic in a hat. The creative director of Parisian milliner Maison Michel possesses the classical beauty of a young Isabella Rossellini, with features that are further emphasised by her gamine, mousy crop. We meet at the Marylebone townhouse where Royer is presenting her autumn collection, in among the hat boxes, as a brigade of staff come in and out preparing everything. It has been two years since Royer, 32, was installed as creative head at Maison Michel, which was founded in 1936 and made hats for couture houses including Chanel, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Valentino. In 1996 the atelier was snapped up by Chanel as part of its cluster of specialist houses known as the Métiers d’Art.
has transformed Maison Michel into the most modern of milliners. And Royer is determined to push it even further. She has introduced hats for men and added a range of coord inated, k n itted accessories and the brilliantly French ‘coquetteries’, which span jewelled Pharrell headbands and seductive Williams Brimming with talent: Priscilla Royer veils. All can be bought at Alexa the brand ’s second eventually became a designer for Chung L ondon outpost in Westwood’s more youth-focused Harrods (its first is in Red Label. ‘I was very lucky. You Burlington Arcade). breathe Westwood, you hang out Royer’s fusion of Parisian with people who work there. It was classicism and punkish my family.’ Despite this, she wanted London spirit can be traced to branch out on her own and so back to her fashion educamoved back to Paris to set up womRosie tion. The third of four sisters, enswear label Piece d’Anarchive with Huntington -Whiteley she grew up in the French sister Deborah. It was a cult hit, but “In Paris you have French countryside of Champagne, closed after four seasons. During elegance. In London everything where she would make things that time, though, she had been consulting for Maison Michel and in 2015 looks like a Rihanna video. It or stage family dance shows. ‘There were other children, but we were like was offered the role of creative director. opens up boundaries” a crew, the four of us.’ She left to ‘When you have an idea you can translate While each atelier still produces for other study fashion in Paris at Studio it to shoes, or dresses, or whatever it is. luxury houses, Maison Michel has deftly Berçot (alumnae include Catherine I build a Maison Michel collection the same launched itself as a retail business in its own Baba and Isabel Marant) and then way I would build a clothing collection,’ right, with a succession of hit headwear worn moved to London in 2006, where she took explains Royer. ‘What always fascinates me by Alexa Chung, Jessica Alba, Selena Gomez evening classes at Central Saint Martins’ is that I can have something very precise in and Chloë Sevigny — not to mention an army experimental fashion design department and my mind that wouldn’t have existed in the of street-style stars, for whom the bestsecured an internship at Vivienne Westwood. past and they have a shape for that. You ask selling Virginie fedora is a must-have (this ‘London was like a slap in the face,’ she for something in the morning and then you is also a firm favourite with Pharrell recalls of her arrival here a decade ago. have it in the next hour and a half. For a creaWilliams, who has them in several col‘In Paris you have French elegance. In tive person, really it is a luxury.’ ours). There is the neat chenille Reese London everything looks like a Rihanna And as a new wave of individualism bowler, the Tiger baseball cap (a video. It opens up boundaries.’ sweeps across fashion, the hat is suddenly ‘super interesting hat’) or the Before Royer took up her internvery much back in the frame this season. ‘For chichi Kiki — a navy blue felt ship at Westwood someone had told me hats are an affirmation of who you are: boater with pearl tassels and a her that, as it was a family business, emphasising the message you want to send string of pearls that Royer flicks she could easily work her way up. ‘I to the outside world, whether it’s a cap, a Chloë over her shoulder. hung on to that idea,’ she says. She beanie or a fedora,’ muses Royer. ‘In the end Sevigny It’s this irreverence — coupled speedily progressed from showI think people want to find individuality, and with incredible couture skills — that room assistant to the studio and hats help somehow.’
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STYLE NOTES What we love now
SEZANE X HOLIDAY T-shirt, £40 (sezane.com)
EDITED BY KATRINA ISRAEL
Beach and BEYOND
These colourful Sep Jordan kuffiehs — which are hand embroidered by female artisans at Jordan’s Jerash refugee camp — double up as a sarong or scarf. £49, profits after business costs go to the camp (sepjordan.com)
Outside of the Hamptons and Westbourne Grove, you’d be right in thinking it has been a decade or so since white denim was in vogue. Now the emblem of the Noughties jet-set is back, grounded by a more relaxed, utilitarian fit from Acne Studios to Dior. So relinquish flashbacks of Chelsea socialites in hipsters, camisoles and stilettos. This time around the style set is going totally tonal with A-line skirts, boyfriend jeans and raw-edged cut-offs teamed with a classic white T-shirt.
InSTARglam Sheffield-based photographic duo Magnus Edmondson and India Hobson have embarked on a greenhouse tour of the globe. Add their green belt to your selfie-saturated feed
ACNE STUDIOS Blå Konst jeans, £250 (acnestudios.com)
3.1 PHILLIP LIM PRE-FALL 17
M.I.H JEANS skirt, £112 (mih-jeans.com)
Illustration by Jonathan Calugi @ Machas
The last time we championed the turban it was 2007 and Miuccia Prada was leading the charge. Flash forward to pre-fall 2017 and Gucci’s Alessandro Michele is turning heads with his jewelled wraps, while Milanese brand Ca&Lou has just added encrusted headbands to its offering. Time to replay Grey Gardens. CA&LOU Gigi headband, top, £194; Portofino headband, below, £255 (caandlou.com)
GUCCI PRE-FALL 17
NEXT shorts, £22 (next.co.uk) ON THE ISLAND BY MARIOS SCHWAB bikini, £160, at net-aporter.com
Follow us at @eveningstandardmagazine THREE GRACES LONDON bikini, £170 (threegraces london.com)
Prism top, £150; bottoms, £95 (prismlondon.com)
SOLID & STRIPED top, £71; bottoms, £71, at matches fashion.com
ADD TO BASKET: Want to make a splash this summer? These athletic bikinis walk that fine line between sporty and sexy
COS top, £19; bottoms, £17 (cosstores.com)
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MEN’S STYLE What to buy now
Big Ben’s bit on the side
by TEO VAN DEN BROEKE, style director OF esquire UK
Raeburn’s finest hour
Ben Machell follows in the footsteps of his 17th-century idol
Jonny Cochrane; Josh Shinner; illustration by Jonathan Calugi @ Machas
There has been a rush of brands producing high-style, low-price timepieces, and few are better than those made by Glaswegian company Instrmnt. Built in Switzerland, the watches are super-minimal and feel surprisingly expensive. At London Fashion Week Men’s last month the brand unveiled a collaboration with UK designer Christopher Raeburn, who’s known for his dedication to sustainability — something shared by Instrmnt. The result features a locally sourced leather strap and comes in recyclable packaging. Smarts all round.
B Instrmnt x Christopher Raeburn watch, £200 (instrmnt.co.uk)
Donald Trump may have refused to recognise June as LGBTQ month in the US, but when Nike, one of the most powerful companies in the world, releases an entire collection in honour of the LGBTQ community, you know things aren’t all bad. The Be True collection features four sneakers (my favourite of which has a dazzling rainbow sole), three tops (including a T-shirt emblazoned with a rainbow ‘Equality’ slogan) and a pair of hyper-hued socks. Invest now and show your support. (nike.com)
Be True Classic Cortez, £80
Be True Air Zoom Pegasus 34, £99.95
Re.Sustain T-shirt, £39; sweatshirt, £75; trousers, £99
Be True Air VaporMax, £170
Be True flyknit, £129.95
LOOK GOOD, DO GOOD
Ethical is a perennial fashion buzzword. H&M has its Conscious Collection and brands such as Patagonia and New Balance have started spending a lot of time and money ensuring that their production processes are sustainable from start to finish. The latest label to join the effort is Re.Sustain. Consisting of an Re.Sustain array of workwear-inspired T-shirt, £49 basics, the brand’s collection of organic cotton pieces is entirely sustainable (everything from the sourcing of the yarn to the dying of the fabric is certified) and, what’s more, entirely wearable: the indigo worker Re.Sustain jacket in particular. Jacket, £149 (resustainclothing.com)
ecause I’ve secretly given up on all forms of contemporary popular culture, I’m now exclusively listening to Kenneth Branagh reading The Diary of Samuel Pepys. It’s an experience I would recommend to anybody, but particularly to Londoners. And particularly to Londoners who, like me, spend a lot of time trudging through the old Square Mile and down along the Thames. I’ll jam in my headphones and tap a button and there he is, a man who lived 350 years ago, chatting away about his life, his worries, his secrets, all while I walk in what were more or less his footsteps, my compulsive stop-offs at Leon notwithstanding. I love Samuel Pepys. It’s funny. You think you’ve outgrown the childish habit of idolising people, only the next thing you know you’re totally obsessed with a naval administrator born in 1633 and who spent a good chunk of his 20s and 30s doing these amazingly detailed, stupendously honest brain farts before he went to bed every night. I promise I’m not going to try to hector you into liking Pepys just because I do, despite it being my birthright as a white bloke in his mid-30s. I just love revelling in how similar life was back then.
“Pepys is the spiritual ancestor of every frazzled-but-happy Londoner” I love how Pepys worked in an office, moaned about his colleagues, angsted about his pay packet and generally had the same kind of status anxiety as the rest of us. I love how he was always nipping into pubs and fretting about how he looked in a new item of clothing. I love how he was always jumping into little boats whizzing up and down the river, like so many creaky Ubers. He’s the spiritual ancestor of every frazzled-but-happy Londoner you’ve ever met. Okay, fair enough, he was an arsehole to his wife, forever eye-humping other women and worse. But then, we all have friends like that. And who, deep down, doesn’t love drama? I love how he kept worrying that he was drinking too much, and worrying about his old mum and dad. And I’ll always love him for the tears he shed for London after witnessing the carnage of the Great Fire. So I walk around with him blathering on as I go past The Monument or Tower Hill or any of the other places he used to hang at. It’s ghostly but remarkably comforting. Like I say, I’d recommend it to anyone.
14.07.17 es magazine 21
Left, Ivanka Trump, Dasha Zhukova and Karlie Kloss at the US Open. Above left, Ivanka and Wendi Deng. Top, Jared Kushner and Ivanka (left) with Melania and Donald Trump
A family AFFAIR
They’re smart, successful and glamorous — and their partners are brothers. But the most controversial presidency in history has created an awkward situation for Karlie Kloss and Ivanka Trump. Can their friendship survive, asks Tom Leonard
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are brothers, Jared and Joshua Kushner. The first is Ivanka’s 36-year-old husband who, combined with Ivanka, has a reported net worth of at least £570 million and is arguably the most important aide to the President. The second, 32, is a successful entrepreneur whose firm, Thrive Capital, shot to fame after it invested early in Instagram. And for the past five years Joshua, who is worth a reported £155 million, has been the boyfriend of Karlie. The brothers, scions of an incredibly close New Jersey property dynasty estimated to be worth in excess of £1.4 billion, will always be bound together by blood. But what of onetime friends Karlie and Ivanka? ‘You won’t see another photo like the one at the tennis tournament during this presidency, I guarantee,’ said a New York businessman who knows both couples. On paper the 24-year-old supermodel and First Daughter, 35, have much in common. Both have modelled, both have a razor-sharp eye for marketing themselves and both have launched themselves as champions of women. Ivanka — who studied at the prestigious Wharton business school in Pennsylvania — started her career in the family business, later releasing a range of jewellery, followed by clothes, shoes and accessories. Karlie, who was raised in St
Ivanka Trump and Jared Kushner
Louis where her father was a doctor and her mother an advertising art director, is currently the world’s third highest paid model according to Forbes magazine, with a reported income of £7.8 million in 2016. She has her own range of sunglasses and her own YouTube channel, Klossy, helping to push her estimated net worth to more than £12 million. While Ivanka has advocated for stateprovided parental leave and spoken of the i mpor ta nce of suppor ti ng fema le entrepreneurs, Karlie is currently studying feminism at New York University and has supported women in tech through her initiative Kode with Klossy, which offers a free programme to girls aged 13 to 18 and scholarships to attend a full coding course. The two women’s closest mutual friends are Zhukova (who has taken Karlie to watch Chelsea matches — a team owned by her husband, Roman Abramovich) and Deng. The latter, former wife of Rupert Murdoch,
n court the players were slugging it out for the US Open title — but as the tournament came to a climax last September, all eyes were on the VIP box. There was Wendi Deng, Russian gallerist Dasha Zhukova, Princess Beatrice and billionaire Hollywood mogul David Geffen. As for the two elegant blondes book-ending the celebrity front row — that was Karlie Kloss and Ivanka Trump. The pair — Ivanka in a cream jumpsuit; Karlie in a white sleeveless top and blue skirt — were photographed laughing and chatting, looking, to the casual observer, like two friends who didn’t have a care in the world. You may remember those pictures, for the simple reason that you won’t have seen anything like them since. What has intervened has been the small matter of one of the most divisive presidential elections in US history — and the fact that many of Ivanka’s smart New York friends would nowadays rather be seen almost anywhere than with her. For Karlie, detaching herself from the toxic Trump ‘brand’ isn’t quite so easy. After all, she and Ivanka are united by more than just their shared fame and reputations as astute businesswomen. Their other halves
Karlie Kloss’ tweet from the polling booth
Karlie Kloss and Joshua Kushner
reportedly reunited Ivanka and Jared after they split in 2008. Although Karlie has never revealed how she met her notoriously publicity-shy boyfriend, the impeccably connected Deng may have played a part. She and Karlie have been friends since at least 2012 when the model appeared at a charity event hosted with Zhukova. Yet ever since Donald Trump became President, the friends’ paths have gone in very different directions. While Karlie can do no wrong in the public eye, Ivanka can seemingly do no right. Such is the misogynistic reputation of her father that many women simply feel let down by her continued support of him. As protesters organised boycotts of her products, in February the department store chains Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom dropped Ivanka’s fashion line, citing ‘poor performance’. In April she attended a summit on women in the workplace in Germany and
was booed by the audience when she praised her father’s advocacy for women. For Karlie, the problem with being associated with Brand Trump is obvious. The New York fashion world which she inhabits has made clear its contempt for the new administration, with designers boycotting stores that sold Trump family fashion brands or — in the case of Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen and a string of other big names — refusing to dress First Lady Melania. Perhaps more importantly, the Trump administration couldn’t be further from the liberal views she espouses. On election day last year, Karlie tweeted a photo of herself filling out her ballot alongside the pro-Hillary hashtag ‘#ImWithHer’; she followed up by sporting the blue ribbon of the American Civil Liberties Union on the hip of her white Stella McCartney dress in protest at the President’s ‘Muslim ban’. Such values form a crucial part of her brand: aside from Kode with Klossy, she has given her name to Karlie’s Kookies, a range of biscuits sold to provide food for children through the charity FEED Projects. But the problem cuts both ways. As that mutual friend puts it: ‘This is tricky for both Karlie and Ivanka… Ivanka’s been stung by so many of her old friends being so anti-Trump. I’m sure she doesn’t want to be seen mixing with the sort of people who are sneering at her father.’ Jared recently admitted he had started ‘exfoliating’, or shedding, liberal friends as they knew he wasn’t going to budge in his loyalty to his father-in-law. A source close to the couple describes it as a ‘fortress mentality… they’re pulling up the drawbridge and making it clear that anyone who attacks the White House cannot be their friend.’ In stark contrast to last year, when both couples attended the 2016 White House Correspondents’ Dinner, and Karlie obligingly snapped a goofy photo of Jared and Ivanka
(sticking out her tongue) for the latter to post on Instagram, this year Ivanka joined her father in boycotting the event. Neither have the two Karlie Kloss and women been pictured at Taylor any events together Swift since the US Open, though Karlie is often seen out in the company of other celebrity friends, such as Taylor Swift and New York fashion writer Derek Blasberg. Even Joshua appears eager to put a distance between himself and the First Family, despite the fact that he and his brother are best friends. He’s publicly stated that as a life-long Democrat he couldn’t vote for Trump and told Forbes in April that ‘liberal values have guided my life’; he also attended the anti-Trump Women’s March in Washington in January. Their relationship is further complicated by the fact that Joshua’s biggest venture, a £2.1 billion health insurance company called Oscar, is built around Obama’s health reforms — which Donald Trump has vowed to abolish.
“ivanka and jared are making it clear that anyone who attacks the White House cannot be their friend” Both Joshua and Karlie have stopped short of directly attacking the President. Insiders say she refuses to talk about the Trumps in interviews and even pulled out of one with an Australian TV station when it appeared they might pop the question. Sources talk of as many as five PR handlers watching hawk-like over Karlie interviews. Will the friendship survive? Only time will tell. For now, the two women appear to face a dual dilemma. Karlie, a savvy businesswoman whose success is based heavily on her cool, 100 per cent liberal ‘brand’ only need look as far as Ivanka to see what happens when you get too closely tied to the Trump presidency. And Ivanka? Reports circulate that she and Jared are fed up with Washington and are re-evaluating whether to return to New York. Karlie and Ivanka might not be photographed out and about together any more — but in some ways, their complicated relationship with a toxic presidency means they’ve never had as much in common.
14.07.17 es magazine 23
out of the shade
Hothouse florals, cool blue chevrons and stripes that donâ€™t toe the line. Embrace summerâ€™s exhibitionist mood with statement prints in bold, bright colours PhotographS BY Lauretta suter stylED BY sophie paxton
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Opposite page, SIES MARJAN dress, POA, at selfridges.com. BEULA scarf, £90 (beulahlondon.com). MISSONI earrings, £135 (missoni.com) This page, BEULAH dress, £595 (beulahlondon.com). GUCCI shoes, £1,610 (020 7235 6707). GUCCI earrings, £640, at Browns (020 3750 1241)
BEULAH blouse, £245 (beulahlondon.com). ZIMMERMANN trousers, POA (zimmermannwear.com). FILÙ HATS hat, £500, at matchesfashion.com. Rochas clogs, £1,190 (rochas.com)
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TIBI dress, £405.60 (tibi.com). BEULAH scarf, £50 (beulahlondon.com)
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BEULAH jumpsuit, £365 (beulahlondon.com). MANOLO BLAHNIK shoes, £1,095 (manoloblahnik.com). AMRAPALI rings, £605 and £460; earrings, £5,700 (020 7584 4433) Make-up and hair by Kristina Ralph Andrews at Saint Luke using CHANEL Les Indispensables de L’Eté and CHANEL Hydra Beauty Micro Crème. Fashion assistant: Eniola Dare. Photographer’s assistant: Laura Cammarata Model: Charlotte Hayes at Select Model Management Shot on location at the Suján Rajmahal Palace (+91 114 617 2700; sujanluxury.com)
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beauty SIMPLE Kind to Eyes Eye Make-up Remover, £3.80, at boots.com. BATISTE Dry Shampoo On The Go Original, £1.50, at superdrug.com. ELEMIS Balancing Lavender Toner, from Luxury Travel: Essentials For Her gift set, £62 (elemis.com). PERCY & REED Smoothed, Sealed & Sensational Volumising No Oil Oil, £5, at marksandspencer.com. BAIJA PARIS Moana Cream, from Coffret Moana Body Treatment gift set, £29.90, at birchbox.co.uk
by katie service
KEEP CALM AND CARRY ON
Set by Gemma Therese Pearce
Holiday heroes that will get through security and all the way to the beach
PHOTOGRAPH BY AMY CURRELL STYLED BY LILY WORCESTER
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TAXI CAB YELLOW
Josh Wood, Atelier, W11 What is it about summer that gets everyone talking about pastel hair again? Pinterest has seen a 97 per cent rise in pastel hair posts since March. But it’s a new raft of saturated acid shades, the urban pastels, that have got Josh Wood excited. ‘My favourite tint of the moment is Redken’s City Beats Yellow Cab, which we used at the Versace show (with Gigi Hadid, left),’ says Wood, who recommends intermixing colour with your natural hair, rather than tinting the whole head. ‘The great thing is these can be achieved on different base colours, not just bleached blondes,’ he adds.
From urban pastels to a platinum that suits all skin tones, beauty editor Katie Service speaks to London’s top colourists about their summer palette predictions
Jack Howard, Paul Edmonds, SW3 ‘Platinude’ is a shade that suits all skin tones, and has the fun of bleach blonde but with a softer champagne root. ‘It’s also a nice transition out of platinum if you’ve sported the bottleblonde look for some time,’ says Howard. Spy it atop Hollywood royalty such as Jennifer Lawrence (top) and model Adwoa Aboah (left).
Josh Shinner; Getty; Natasha Pszenicki
James Pecis, L’Oréal Professionnel backstage hair stylist While James Pecis isn’t technically a colourist, his luminescent creation at the Issey Miyake catwalk show (above), inspired by the northern lights, has sparked summer’s most creative colour trend. Pecis fashioned a loop of gradiating colour by fixing a band of light-reflective blue/ green material to the hair. For DIY attempts, plait a halo braid over the front section of the hairline and colour with Bumble and Bumble BB Colour Sticks (right, £23 each, bumbleandbumble. co.uk), in shades from blue to lilac and pale pink.
Sam Burnett, Hare & Bone, W1 ‘Smudging’ is Sam Burnett’s technique of pushing or blurring one colour (usually two to three shades lighter than your base colour) over the hair so that you can’t tell where one colour ends and the other begins. ‘It’s a painting technique applied at random to the mid-lengths,’ he explains. ‘The result is a soft shadowing of colour throughout the hair that has a “lived-in” feel.’ Smokin’.
BLEACH SUPPORT: Unless you’re naturally fair,
if you want the best results, most bright colours require you to bleach your hair. No pain, no gain, right? Make sure you safeguard your mane with these care treatments... Olaplex, the in-salon treatment Kim Kardashian used after she went peroxide, reconnects the broken bonds within the hair shaft that become disfigured from chemical colouring. £30 (taylortaylorlondon.com) Redken PH Bonder, another in-salon care treatment that neutralises acidity left by chemical hair colourants. £50 (nevillehairandbeauty.net)
14.07.17 ES MAGAZINE 33
grace & flavour Grace Dent finds divine Indian food and a bold
proprietor in ‘swinging’ London’s historic heartland
“For their launch party, the ladies fed 300 vulnerable local people rather than round-bottomed food critics like myself ”
Jonny Cochrane; illustration by Jonathan Calugi @ Machas
will never stop loving Carnaby Street. Yes it’s central, hectic and festooned with ambling tourists chasing a ‘swinging’ London vibe that departed many decades ago. Yet, as a child on holiday here I’d beg my mother to take me to the doorstep of No 52, where the Smash Hits office once was. There, I’d loiter hoping to spy a stray member of Duran Duran or, even better, the magazine’s swoonsome editor Mark Ellen. London, I had decided from reading this poptastic mag cover-to-cover, was endlessly, brainfizzingly exciting. I was leaving Carlisle the millisecond I could to join the party. I think this whenever I’m on Grace & Flavour duties walking along Kingly Street, past Dishoom, Jinjuu and Pizza Pilgrims and up into Kingly Court, which is constantly filled with hungry tourists enjoying Dirty Bones, Rum Kitchen or Shoryu. I have much time for Kingly Court, the sleek, modern three-floor food complex, as I feel it gives London’s visitors at least a tiny glimpse into how we actually eat. Anything to stop tourists sitting in the Satan’s bum crevice Aberdeen Steak House; or perhaps worse, eating abominable fish and chips in a dank Soho pub with sticky tables and, oh the inhumanity, tartar sauce sachets. And if you’re only passing through and want to meet one Londoner who is making an impact, head to the third floor of Kingly Court, to the newly opened Darjeeling Express, a CalcuttaHyderabad-Rajput restaurant, and find the proprietor, Asma Khan. Here is a bright, beautiful room with a lively atmosphere. It takes bookings. It’s licensed. They love groups and families. And Khan is generally on hand, forcing extra samosas
darjeeling express Top Floor, Kingly Court, Soho, W1 (020 7287 2828; darjeeling-express.com)
Sunday biryani feasts
bottle of Crémant de Bourgogne £31
on to the clientele. She is a force of nature: bold, funny, talented, philanthropic and unstoppable. I first met her at a supper club in Wood Green where she fed me Bengali prawn malaikari in a gentle coconut sauce until I was horizontal and mewling. I demolished puchkas — wheat and semolina shells, filled with delicate black chick peas and tamarind water — as well as too many spinach pakoras, made with Nepali spinach grown by retired Gurkhas in Woolwich. Almost all of Khan’s output – from shikampuri kebab through to her outstanding carrot halwa — has a story attached, either from her royal ancestry or her day-to-day London life. I’ll let her tell them. But I will divulge that her Kingly Court kitchen is staffed purely by talented female friends cooking homestyle food: a slow-cooked Bengali goat curry with an occasional potato; Kala chana, nutty black chickpeas full of bite and vigour. None of the Darjeeling Express team are trained chefs; they learned from their grandmothers. There is not a surly chef with a tattoo sleeve doing ‘twists on classics’ in sight. No dish is drowning in cream and there is a dearth of garnish. They don’t do small plates or harsh tableturning. For their launch party, the ladies fed 300 vulnerable local people rather than roundbottomed food critics like myself. Of a Sunday, Darjeeling Express serves a biryani feast from 12.30pm-3.30pm. It arrives with a Hyderabadi mirchi ka salan, a green chilli and onion gravy with peanuts and sesame, plus a Bengali tomato chutney. Khan’s menu is everchanging, but do look out for the grated beetroot raita. She also makes fearsomely spiced croquettes using fen beetroot which are worth making your eyes water for. Of her puddings, the stewed hunza apricots with cream is the more abstemious, but the carrot halwa with pistachio is wonderful. I headed for Carnaby Street in the Eighties with the vow to make life worth living. I don’t regret it a bit.
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tart london Jemima Jones and Lucy Carr-Ellison put together an ethical, Asian-inspired pulled pork baguette
Pretty in pink: Jemima and Lucy put the finishing touches on some cupcakes
Jemima Jones (left) and Lucy Carr-Ellison
few weeks ago we went to animal welfare campaigner Tracy Worcester’s dinner at Petersham Nurseries in Richmond to celebrate the launch of her Farms Not Factories series of films. It explores chefs who use only high-welfare pork and the passionate farmers who supply them. Tracy is an absolute hero, working to raise awareness of the horrors of industrial, or ‘factory’, pig farming. This is a campaign we care about very much and we’re keen to do our bit. The awful reality is that more than half of the world’s pigs never experience soil, fresh air or the company of other pigs. They are crammed into concrete pens and pumped full of antibiotics. Factory farms also pollute the ground, air and water while their low prices drive kinder, fairer small producers out of business. We’re helping by appearing in one of Tracy’s videos in which we cook alongside Jemima’s husband, Ben, in his woods in Somerset, where his Tamworth pigs root happily in the cool earth under the sun. Petersham Nurseries is a breathtaking place, straight out of a Jane Austen scene. There are gardens of wildflowers, handsome Tuscan stones and a restaurant inside the most charming greenhouse where we dined on organic pork prepared by Damian Clisby, head chef of Petersham, James Golding from the Pig Hotel chain and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. What could be better than contributing to a cause that means so much to us while feasting at such a fabulous place? Farms Not Factories works to inspire consumers to follow top chefs’ example by only buying pork from humane pig farms. With that we hope you enjoy a favourite pulled pork sandwich of ours, inspired by Asian cuisine, with lots of delicious spice, sweetness and crunch.
asian pulled pork baguette
1.5kg organic pork shoulder, fatty bits sliced off
Preheat the oven to 170C. In a bowl, mix the marinade ingredients together. Add the pork shoulder and marinate for at least 2 hours. Line a baking tray with a large piece of foil, place the pork in the middle and pour the marinade over. Wrap up in the foil and roast in the oven for 3 hours. Remove every 40 minutes to spoon over the cooking liquid. After 3 hours, open the tin foil and baste once more, then place back in the oven uncovered for a further 30 minutes. Take out and rest. Chop the cucumber in half. Use a peeler to slice the cucumber into thin strips lengthways. Chop the carrot in half as well, and use a sharp knife to slice into matchsticks. Put in a bowl with all the other salad ingredients, mix well and set aside for 30 minutes then drain, leaving a little liquid in the bowl. Mix together all the sweet chilli mayo ingredients in a bowl and put your baguettes in the oven for 5 minutes to crisp a little. Dig a fork into your pork to break it up and mix it around in the sticky juices. Slice open the baguettes and smother in mayo, followed by the pork, then the pickled veg. Chop each baguette in three and top with the extra torn mint, coriander and chillies, if you like it spicy!
For the marinade 5 tbsp soy sauce 3 tbsp hoisin sauce 2 tbsp sesame oil 2 tbsp maple syrup 2 tbsp rice wine vinegar 2 tsp Chinese five spice 4 garlic cloves, crushed 5cm knob of ginger, grated For the salad 1 cucumber 1 carrot 3 spring onions, thinly sliced 3cm knob of ginger, minced 2 tbsp rice wine vinegar 1 tbsp sesame oil 1 tsp fish sauce 1 lime, juice and zest 1 tsp caster sugar 2 bird’s eye chillies, deseeded and finely chopped 2 tbsp roasted peanuts, crushed Large pinch of chopped mint Large pinch of chopped coriander For the sweet chilli mayo 3 tbsp mayonnaise 1 tbsp sriracha sauce 2 tbsp sweet chilli sauce Zest of 1 lime 2 baguettes Small bunch coriander, shredded Small bunch mint, shredded 2 red chillies, thinly sliced (optional)
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In the MIX
FEAST The Iron Lady
Scarfes Bar at Rosewood London Named after whisky-partial Margaret Thatcher, The Iron Lady involves infusing 10-year-old Talisker whisky with dried porcini in a sous-vide bag for an hour, then straining with cheese cloth. The resulting liquor is blended with a spiced malbec reduction and galangal, the citrusy root that looks like ginger. Bar manager Martin Siska admits the mushrooms are a means to seduce adventurous guests. ‘The use of porcini mushrooms in cocktails is not yet mainstream, and we find that our guests are really intrigued by the use of the infusion in the The Iron Lady,’ he says. The savoury vegetable softens the intense smokiness of the Talisker and the sweetly perfumed malbec reduction rounds out the whole. ‘At first taste it can be quite strong; a deliberate choice as it was inspired by Thatcher,’ says Siska. He adds ice to take the edge off — but ask for it without if you’re feeling as hardcore as the Iron Lady herself. (scarfesbar.com)
Mushroom and sha ren nuts
Jonny Cochrane; Alamy; glassware available at waterford.co.uk
The Hong Kong speakeasy Tea Room, hidden below Soho’s Chinese street café Bun House, doesn’t shy away from eyebrow-raising cocktail flavours such as cigarette and palm or kumquat and wormwood. But this one in particular looks as though it belongs on the food menu. The mushrooms in question are fragrant Chinese flower mushrooms (shiitake), made into a liqueur in-house and mixed with Taiwanese malt whisky and menthol-tasting bitters, then topped with dehydrated mushroom dust and dry-fried shimeji. Far more savoury than your average cosmopolitan and with an intensely smooth, umami taste, you’re unlikely to find anything like it outside of China. As owner Alex Peffly insists, ‘There is no gimmick behind the cocktail itself, or why we use mushrooms — our entire cocktail list is simply based around using common Chinese ingredients that aren’t so rare in traditional Chinese cocktails.’ (bun.house)
Steel yourself: The Iron Lady
’Shroom with a
Fancy shiitake in your sidecar or porcini in your punch? You will once you’ve tried one of these mushroom cocktails, says Frankie McCoy
Umami old fashioned The Ivy
Rich, fruity whisky seems to be a natural pairing for the savoury, earthy taste of mushrooms — that’s why The Ivy’s bar manager Darren Ball came up with the Umami old fashioned for the contemporary section of their 100 Years menu. A 10-yearold Glenmorangie is slow cooked with porcini mushrooms (pre-soaked in water to reduce their earthiness), then stirred up into an old fashioned with apricot brandy and cardamom bitters. ‘So often the umami taste comes with an abundance of salt, which we wanted to avoid,’ says Ball. ‘Mushrooms neutralise the salt.’ The result is almost cream smooth, slightly herby and oh-so sophisticated. (the-ivy.co.uk) This is a swathe of
Douglas Blyde meets the most stubborn brewer in town
n a tasting room in Wandsworth’s Ram Quarter complex, beneath a portrait of the Queen Mother pulling a pint, John Hatch is telling me how he turned a former Young’s brewery into a successful indie. ‘I promised John Young I’d keep brewing alive,’ says Hatch of his former mentor. His ‘nanobrewery’ is housed in a former stable next door. Once home to draught horses hauling beer to Young’s taverns, these now feature cunningly repurposed kit. ‘I had to be inventive,’ says Hatch of the salvaged bottle-dipper now used as a mash tun (which converts the starches in crushed grains to sugars) and the brew kettle reworked from a canteen tea urn. Sprightly Hatch, who wears a lab coat and evokes Doctor Who, brews twice weekly to maintain the site’s title of Britain’s oldest continuous brewery, dating from 1533. He joined Young’s as microbiologist in 1988, rising to brewhouse manager. But on his birthday in 2006 he learned his colleagues, who held shares, had decided that the brewery was ‘worth more closed’. And so he stayed as site manager, attracting filming projects from MasterChef to Luther around the deserted works to pay the bills. Compared with Young’s weekly 5,000 barrels, Hatch has, with the help of a manger-like sterilising bath acting as a fermenter, just upped his production to three quarters of a barrel. He opens the log at the page recording Young’s final brew right beside his first as an indie, ‘which shows we’re continuing tradition’. Crafted with ‘luck’, not costly temperature control, the beers are stupendous, including silken Quaffing Ale, deeper Phoenix and perky, lemongrass-scented Lemony Cricket. Until the rejuvenated site gets a new microbrewery in 2018, Hatch’s malt, hops and detergents are funded by donations from invitation-only comedy nights. ‘I’ve had hugs and kisses from men. But I don’t deserve it. I’m just a stubborn old man who won’t bugger off!’ @RamBrewery
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Yangtze river gorge; left, a traditional building in Fengdu
EDITED by dipal acharya
a gorge getaway
Nick Curtis boards a lavish slow boat through China’s most stunning waterway
y journey through the stupendous Three Gorges of the Yangtze River felt like an encapsulation of contemporary China. On board the salubrious cruise ship Yangzi Explorer — there are four different spellings for the waterway, as I would come to understand is typical of this mind-blowing country — guests sipped Singapore slings and listened to carefully apolitical lectures about the river’s history. My fellow passengers were mostly older, wealthy, curious Americans or newly rich young Chinese exploring their own country. The Three Gorges have been famous for centuries for their dizzying vertical walls and fortress-like peaks, but they were only rendered safe for tourist ships to traverse when the construction of the upstream dam 20 years ago raised the river level by 90m. The banks are now also studded with vast ‘villages’ of slab-like apartment blocks thrown up to rehouse the mostly poor, agricultural communities displaced when the rising water submerged their homes. What’s more, the adjacent industry throws up smog that keeps the temperature down and gives photographs the misty quality of watercolour on silk. Metaphor, anyone? The boat has as many helpful staff as
potential guests — 124 of them — a vast lounge bar and foredeck for sightseeing, plus a two-storey theatre for lectures and occasional film screenings (mostly documentaries about the river or modern China, with Mission: Impossible III thrown in). There’s a small gym, morning tai chi sessions on deck and a large spa where I had a rigorous Chinese massage. The food was an impressive mix of Chinese noodle dishes, curries and stir fries — many with a decent chilli kick — and simpler grilled fish and meat for the less adventurous. The wine was French or New World, the beer local and excellent. There were shore excursions to meet locals and tour a food market at the relocated village of Fengdu. We were also rowed upstream on a tributary of the Yangtze, Shennong Stream, past rhesus monkeys, a five-mile-long cave and a remnant of the mysterious practice of suspending coffins high up on a sheer cliff face. But the centrepiece, as the voyage’s Left, the ‘Jade’ Suite; below, boats at the Tribe of the Three Gorges
name suggests, was the day’s sail through the Qutang, Wu and Xiling Gorges, past the 12 outcrops shaped like a dragon’s spine, a morning cloud or a goddess, the latter eulogised in verse by Chairman Mao.
“the gorges are famous for their dizzying walls and fortress-like peaks” ‘The English names are not as poetic as the Chinese ones,’ said cruise director Willie Wu in his commentary, and he was right. The scenery is primal, lush, overwhelming, and the human incursions into it — the towns, bridges and factories — seem ephemeral. Until we passed through the ship locks of the two-kilometre-long dam itself, that is. Several men, including me, took to the rainswept deck to perve over their concrete, sci-fi vastness. A final tip: if you avoid the karaoke night in the theatre and the sporadic warblings of musical duo Lemon and Peach in the bar, you will find, as I did, the Three Gorges cruise both fascinating and humbling. Wendy Wu Tours offers six nights from £2,300pp, with three nights on board the Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer, one night in Chengdu and two nights in Shanghai (wendywutours.co.uk). Includes all flights, transport, expert local guides and visas. Based on two people sharing.
14.07.17 es magazine 41
levison wood as told to lily worcester
Home is… Hampton Court, down by the river next to Bushy Park, which is lovely: lots of green fields and deer ambling by. I’ve got deer just behind the house which is lovely to wake up to.
Biggest extravagance? A black convertible twoseater Aston Martin (above) that I bought for Christmas. Which shops do you rely on? Leica in Mayfair — in terms of camera equipment it’s just the best. I also love browsing antique bookshops. I like Peter Harrington Rare Books and Stanfords, where I go for maps. Favourite tune? For bringing back memories of walking the Americas, ‘Despacito’ by Luis Fonsi.
First thing you do when you come to London? Get a pint at Mr Fogg’s Tavern in Covent Garden. I like a nice cold San Miguel. Ever had a run in with a policeman? I have, but I was completely innocent. I was coming back from a military wedding — I used to be in the Army — and the tradition is that you wear your uniform, and part of the uniform is your sword. I remember trying to find a taxi, and a policeman decided that it would be best for everybody concerned if he escorted me home. Which was probably a good idea. What do you collect? Trinkets from wherever I’ve been travelling, including a box of rugs from Persia, Iran and the Middle East.
42 es magazine 14.07.17
The explorer loves the gardens at Hampton Court Palace, tucks into fried grasshoppers in Fitzrovia and hides out in Barts bar
Most romantic thing someone has done for you? My girlfriend took me to a restaurant called Archipelago in Fitzrovia that serves fried grasshoppers (above) and that sort of thing. I think she thought because I’d been out in the wild that I must enjoy eating things like scorpions. I wouldn’t necessarily say that’s romantic, but she tried.
Best piece of advice? Probably from Mark Twain. There was a quote that I remember reading when I was travelling: ‘Twenty years from now you’ll be more disappointed about the things that you didn’t do than the things that you did do. So go out, explore, dream and discover.’ Who is your hero? Sir Ranulph Fiennes (right). He’s an incredible man with some incredible achievements. He’s over 70 now and still at it.
Favourite London discoveries? There’s a great old pub in Knightsbridge, the Grenadier (right). It’s like being transported into a village. Where would you go for a nightcap? Barts. It’s one of these places where you have to knock three times on the door to be let in and there are no signs for it. Best meal you’ve had? Rules in Covent Garden is a classic; it’s the oldest restaurant in London. Last time I went for the slow-cooked lamb. They do the classics but with a high-end twist. I’m big into the Sunday brunches at Dishoom; they do a great bacon naan. San Miguel ambassador Levison Wood will be speaking at The San Miguel Experience on 19-21 July (sanmiguelexperience. eventbrite.co.uk)
If you could buy any London building, which would it be? My house overlooks Hampton Court Palace (above), so I’d probably just move over the road and go there. It has amazing gardens and it’s right on the river.