Fashion Journal Final Project

Fashion History Final Journal

By: Erin Sgombick

Table of Contents 1900s ————————————————————————— pgs. 1-6 1910s ————————————————————————— pgs. 7-11 1920s ————————————————————————— pgs. 12-16 1930s ————————————————————————— pgs. 17-23 1940s ————————————————————————— pgs. 24-28 1950s ————————————————————————— pgs. 29-34 1960s ————————————————————————— pgs. 35-39 1970s ————————————————————————— pgs. 40-44 1980s ————————————————————————— pgs. 45-49 1990s ————————————————————————— pgs. 50-53

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Welcome to the 1900s The start of the new decade brings on a lot of new changes...the 1900s is no exception! Some familiar

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continuously changed the fashion industry and society!

The aughts are mostly shaped by

names of this period are La Belle

the rigid and strict fashion rules of

Epoque, The Age of Opulence, & The

society, largely following the fashion

Edwardian Era. During the first half of

from the end of the previous decade.

the period, the social norms were

Modesty was the name of the game as

marked by fashion that clearly showed

silhouettes such as the Gibson Girl and

your age and wealth. In womenswear,

rigid corsets were popular among

corsets, floor-length dresses and

womenswear. It was emphasized with

extravagant ornamentation were seen

day dresses covering the body from

being worn by wealthy women. For

the neck to the floor and long sleeves

menswear, there was a slower start to

covering the arms. Skirts were bell-

mens’ fashion as frock coats and

shaped and lace was a popular

tailcoats were the norm for all

decoration to use on all garments 1.

occasions. However, as the decade

Women of wealth (ie. aristocrats)

went on, menswear became less and

were required to possess and upkeep

less formal and the lounge suit became

massive wardrobes to meet

dominant. Sports also played a big

the aggressive needs of their

effect on fashion as sporting events

social rounds. From gloves

become more popular and mainstream

and furs to fans and shoes,

in society. For the first ten years of the

every outfit was properly

century, a lot was introduced that

accessorized 2!

Menswear was moving at a slower speed than womenswear in terms of

sporting wear alike were made to match the rigorous activity of the sport. Long- sleeved knitted sports

changing up fashion

sweaters became common in sports/

norms. Here and there,

leisure wear and would be destined to

styles would add

play an important role going forward.

another button here or a slightly narrow lapel there would switch up men’s everyday styles. A big icon in 1900s

These sweaters were popular in a lot of sports: fishing, tennis, cricket and baseball. For men, knickerbockers and tweeds worn on the golf course were also acceptable daywear.

menswear, however, was Edward VII. At his coronation at 61 years old in 1902, he continuously dressed with distinction and impressed the public with his pristine image. As both Prince of Wales and King, he was a major arbitrator of fashion and an icon for menswear going forward 3.

The beginning of the 20th century marked the turn of sporting events and its influence on society. In

"Fashion changes, but style endures" -Coco Chanel

1901, men and women alike started attending spectator sports such as tennis matches, golf outings, cricket and baseball games. Leisure wear and

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What a Difference 100 years can tell a lot about how far trends have come: everything and anything can happen in that time span! From 1905 with the invention of plastic to 2005 onward where the Internet takes over the world, we are

Camille Clifford, 1904

Barbie Classic Evening Gown Doll Platinum Label, 2015

comparing the fashion from the Edwardian era to now.

Actress Camille Clifford was famous for her

The Gibson Girl has been continuously

Gibson Girl on the London stage in 1904. The

compared to as the “Barbie of the Era” as it

Gibson Girl was the personification of the

made such a huge impact on society during the

ideal womanhood created by American

time, as does the Barbie plays that same role in

illustrator Charles Dana Gibson; this picture

our society recently! As did the Gibson Girl,

portrays the curves of Clifford’s rounded

Barbie made waves as she was taken into all

hourglass figure that are enhanced by the

trends of style, physicality and fashion pieces.

circles of her bowl-shaped, feather-filled hat,

Before the time we are in today of inclusivity

huge ostrich feather fan and a swirled train.

and body positivity, women all around the

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world strived to have that “Barbie figure” 5.

Blair Underwood, Milan, 2017

Edward VII, France, 1910

100 Years Makes!

Edward VII, while he was

Blair Underwood took the beloved striped suit

getting a bit bigger in his old

of Edward VII and made it his own stepping out

age, still wore smart yet

at the 2017 GQ x Milan Men’s Fashion Week

comfortable lounge suits and had a liking for loud stripes.

These lounge suits had high-

Event. Another major trend-setter, Underwood paired his double-breasted pinstripe suit with another striped shirt and burgundy loafers. The pinstripe did not fade away from fashion over

fastening, single breasted

the years, where it is still worn by fashion

jackets that made him the major

leaders young and old!

arbitrator for fashion.

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While sporting events and attendance was increasing among society, men had to dress the part! The Edwardian man, while enjoying various outdoor activities such as hunting, would don the single-breasted Norfolk jacket.

Accessorized with a belt or a half-belt for a looser fit, this jacket was made from tweed and best paired with knickerbockers 4!

1906, Norfolk suit

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Tweed, 2018, Toronto

At one of the many shows from the F/W 2018 Toronto Men’s Fashion Week, clothing company Tweed showcased their menswear collection. This look, one of many from the collection, had very similar features to its predecessor, the Norfolk jacket! However, instead of just using it as inspiration, Tweed redesigned and transformed into something more suit for the modern man. Adding the overcoat on top, making the silhouette more fitted and shortening the hems completed this modern-day Norfolk jacket.

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Disparity of the Teens changes on all parts of life.

In terms of fashion, many CNN.com, 2014, 8

parts of the business had to undergo some changes: design, dress fabrics, methods of clothing manufacturing…and these We are now moving into the teens, as society advances into more

through women’s dress impacted

and more improvements across the

during the day and at the workplace.

world. In the first two years alone:

The name of the game now was

immigration is at an all time high as

efficiency and scarcity. At the start of

8.8 million immigrants came at a peak

the war, money markets and

time, Edward VII (a true fashion icon)

instabilities about finances made a

from the aughts, passes away at 68

majority of fashion businesses and

years old in 1910, the Triangle

designers close down, and were forced

Shirtwaist Fire & First International

to support the warfront to survive. By

Women’s Day in 1911, alongside so

the mid-1910s, many designers started

many other major events 6. However,

to incorporate military references in

the biggest event that shaped the

their collections. The new color to

1910s forever going forward was World

wear was khaki and jackets and suits

War I.

were sensibly tailored with gentlyA war quite the size as this First

World War would bring on drastic

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changes were evident

waisted silhouettes—these were the essential components to the new

working women’s

really come to fruition during the

wardrobe. One of the

middle of the war, and paved the way

most shocking changes

for the adamant role it will play in the

to come in womenswear was the shift

future. As the war started to near its

from narrow hobble skirts to flared/

end, designers started to focus on way

bell-shaped designs (some with tiers,

easier-to-wear pieces: jumper-blouses,

pleating or kilting) 7.

knitted cardigans, and the use of

For menswear (for the few who

jersey thanks to the famous Gabrielle

were not serving in the army at least),

Chanel! With her newly released

all the focus was on comfortability

collection of jersey garments proving

and practicality. Two pairs of trousers,

revolutionary to women and their

2-3 shirts, a vest, a light jacket, a

relationship to their body, ready-to-

heavy jacket, one or two caps,

wear was taking o down a path

suspenders/belt, and a pair of boots

proving to change fashion going

would have been the perfect

forward 10.

wardrobe for a working-class man 9.

Typically, all clothing had some sort of military influence to it: whether it be the style of the collar, the buttons, the crisp iron to it, all article of clothing

wartime.

Another big event that shaped this decade was actually in the role of ready-to-wear. This idea started to

Gabrielle Chanel, 1916

resembled that the world was in

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House of Worth, France, 1916, evening dress

Christian Dior, F/W 2010, Paris, evening dress

The Effect of World War I

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The shift to more flared & bell-shaped

In Christian Dior’s Fall/Winter 2010

designs was a major turning point in

collection at Paris Fashion Week, he

this decade. Shown here is an evening

devoted 1910s inspiration in his

dress 11 from the House of Worth in

collection of winter dresses, sweaters

1916: made from silk, metal and

and accessories. While a lot of the

rhinestones. This was a major shift of

silhouettes were closely inspired by the

not only to a different silhouette but

same silhouettes from the WWI-era,

also different materials as they

Dior put his modern take on one of his

transition into war times where supply

dresses shown here 12: the slit down the

was short and design houses

middle, leather thigh-high boots, layered

everywhere were focusing their efforts

chain necklaces and the sheer fabric

to support the warfront.

panels in the dress.

Then vs. Now! Trousers, shirts and suspenders were popular items to the workman’s closet. These three boys, pictured in 1916, started working at a young age--the norm for this time period 13.

1916, vintage dancer.com

If you were not serving in the army, then you were usually out working to support your family through these hard times.

Today, suspenders have elevated to an accessory that is worn by all: no matter your

outfit to, suspenders can be accessorized to dress up any outfit. Shown to the right is an outfit from Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring 2009 couture show 14. The asymmetrical neckline draped down behind her paired with the black overalls with suspenders is a modernday take on mens’ workforce wear from the mid-1910s.

2009, Jean Paul Gaultier, couture

gender or the occasion you are wearing the

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In this decade, ready-to-wear was massively impacted by wartime. The young Gabrielle Chanel did a lot to transform the design of wartime dress with the help of her two-piece jersey costumes. Shown here is one of her delicately embroidered jersey ensembles: an open-necked blouse and a shorter, fuller skirt 15. Jersey was a textile previously used for men’s sporting wear, but Chanel made it the epitome of readyto-wear fashion. In a time of war where supplies are short, ready-to-wear fit right in to help women get clothes quickly but still be stylish!

March 1917, Chanel’s “Costumes de jersey”, from Les Elegances Parisiennes

Pictured here is a Zac Posen floral 3/4-sleeve

Zac Posen, ready-to-wear dress, Spring 2017

“fit-&-flare” dress from his Spring 2017

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ready-to-wear collection 16. Ready-to-wear has continued throughout time to constantly prove itself to our society as an easy way to get clothes without sacrificing style. In this collection, Posen took his signature gowns (modernized from the 20th century style) and updated them with more of a day-time feel to the piece.

The Roaring Twenties!

Everyone knows the 1920s as

(1925), Dancemania (the Charleston,

the period of the “Roaring

Black Bottom, Lindy Hop, etc.), The

Twenties”: a period that started off

Harlem Renaissance and the jazz era.

the heels of the 1910s...women

These movements, alongside the

gaining the right to vote, coming

war, both played big roles in fashion

out of war, coming into a prosperous

for both men and women. The point

booming economy, etc. The 1920s

is that many (if not all) of these

brought upon new and iconic trends

events were showcased through the

in fashion, especially due to the new

styles that were popular throughout

and iconic times our world was

this decade. Let’s take a look, shall

heading into. Heading off the

we?

tailwind of the First World War, a

Women had a big start to the

drastic global event that will forever

20s by the passing of the 19th

change countries and society going

Amendment and gaining the right to

forward, everyone around the world

vote. This at first

was in a new state. WWI brought on

started two

significant changes specifically in

courses in

fashion design, dress fabrics and

fashion: the

methods of clothing manufacture.

traditionally

Some important movements coming

feminine and the

in the latter parts of post-war society

more modernist.

included: Exoticism & Cubism (carried over from 1910s), Art Deco

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However, this brought on a carefree, independent movement started flowing among women. Womenswear was not tightly fitted, started to be more independent and less of a sexual figure than what they were in the past.

Women also were starting to accept their own sexuality.

Cue the flapper! She was the hyper sexualized woman of the 20s,

comfortable/convenient clothes and to do away with the classic three-piece suit. One of the biggest trends for men was the banning of shorts and bringing on “oxford bags”, which were huge trousers with a drastic hem. Also, due to the end of WWI, men were looking for more color and were more interested in sportswear/sweaters. The Prince of Wales fair isle sweater was a huge trend as well. The Roaring Twenties brought a new style to menswear that has been different (and more colorful) to anything menswear has seen before.

she did what she wanted to do and didn’t care about anything else, abandoning all previous values of a lady from past years.

The flapper turned into a very

Men, on the other hand, were having some freedom movements of their own. The Men’s Dress Reform Party of 1929 was a formal protest in Britain to try to change social ideals around men’s dress, promoting more

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Marilyn Monroe, 1920

prominent symbol during this decade.

#TBT: “Roaring” it back...the 20s vs. today!

You know the phrase, “History repeats itself”? Well...it is true! We are going to dive into pictures from almost 100 years ago to see that, indeed, history does truly repeat itself. Fashion is no exception! Look for the

Street scene, Washington D.C., 1924.

Prada, Feather-trimmed crepe de chine dress

similarities between the 20s and today: do you spot anything different?

The linear silhouette was especially big in this time period. It was boxier and more free of a shape, used bandeaus to flatten/minimize the bodice, dresses had wide necklines and pullover style embellished with glass beads 17.

Flapper-inspired dresses, such as this Prada feather-trimmed crepe de chine dress 18, are still super popular even 100 years later.

Dresses like this silhouette, with the loser fit and longer relaxed hemlines, are very similar to the linear silhouette that was popular through the 20s!

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Versace, 2020, Milan, ready-to-wear, suit

1922, men in dapper suits and straw boater hats

#TBT: “Roaring” it back

The most essential part to a man’s

The three-piece suit has fortunately never

outfit for the majority of the decade

truly gone away as designers make their

was the three-piece suit, pictured

own 21st-century twist on it. Versace’s

here 19. Suits were mostly made of thick fabrics (ie. wool, wool tweed, mohair, wool flannel, etc.) that made

Spring/Summer 2020 fashion show was anchored in contemporary masculinity and power suits! There are still elements of the three-piece suit of the twenties,

them heavier than today’s suit

including the double-breast and ties—

materials, but lighter than the

however Versace updated it with the two

previous decades.

different textiles, the blue pop of color and white sneakers 20.

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...the 20s vs. today!

Patou, 1920, tennis skirt

Serena Williams, 2016

Sportswear started becoming a main trend

While the hemline may have gone

in the 20s, especially with the creation of

higher up the legs, the pleated white

the world’s first tennis skirt by designer

tennis skirt has still not gone out of

Jean Patou 21. French tennis player Suzanne

style. In sportswear today, major

Lenglen, pictured here, caused headlines

athletes such as Serena Williams 22 are

when she played at Wimbledon arena with bare arms and her knee-length hemline on

still donning this class sportswear piece as a female powerhouse tennis player.

the world’s first modern tennis skirt, made possible by Patou’s design.

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Charles James, 1931

The Not-so-Golden Age of the 1930s: A Conversation with Charles James

“In fashion, even what seems most fragile must be built on cement�

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Christian Dior noted him as “the greatest

sounded pretty amusing. I had a pretty

talent of my generation”. Yves Saint

rough childhood, long story short…

Laurent used his Victorian silhouettes as

traumatic if you will. I came from a tense

inspiration for the New Look. Fashion

family environment, with my father

photographer Bill Cunningham called

always in my ear about how I need to

James “the poet laureate of fashion” 23. In

become a ‘man’. As I grew up, I opened

the bleak times of the 30s, American

my first hat shop on State St. in Chicago

couturier Charles James was making

after meeting a hat designer from the

noise as a cutting-edge designer that

resort my family sent me to. Three shops

everyone wanted in their closets. As the

later, thanks to my success and genius of

Great Depression was ripping through

millinery, and I finally opened up a new

the American economy and many

shop in Manhattan around 1928…and

families were left short pocketed for

the rest from there is history.

anything besides the essentials, James was relishing in his sophisticated and

Q: Yes, that Manhattan shop is where

aristocratic roots. We got to sit down

you first created the infamous “taxi

with him to talk about his vision in the

dress” ! Want to tell us a little more

industry during such an unprecedented

about that?

time, and his innovations within womenswear!

CJ: Oh, the ladies love that style. Near the end of the 20s, I created that dress

Q: Thanks for sitting down to talk with

that made it easy for women to step in

us! Let’s start off with the basics: what

and out of taxis. However, just recently

was your background growing up and

[1933-34] I added a zip around the torso.

your start into fashion?

This zipper invention is something remarkable, you know? If only I created

CJ: Well I had nothing else to do with my

it first, then it would truly be unmatched

day as a poor miserable man, so this

in the industry.

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But my taxi dress, yes it is one of my finest

for sure. I want to ask you about your view

works. I believe that a well-cut garment could

on what has been happening throughout this

fit perfectly if it was ready-made, which is why I

time during the 30s, as the economy is in

sold them pre-packaged in two different sizes 24.

shambles and we are in a period where not

I am absolutely fascinated by the cut of

everyone is looking to spend money on

historical dress and I love exploring new

materialistic things. How do you go about

garment construction, so this spiral draping was

overcoming such a challenge?

truly something so innovative to society. All the ladies are dying for it!

CJ: In this time, I was actually going back and forth between my flats here in New York,

Q: You also enjoyed creating luxurious

London, Paris and Chicago. As the Great

evening gowns. Want to tell us more about

Depression hit in the States, I was already

those?

making success off my corselette gowns, so it seems that even during these tough times women were still looking to be fashionable and

evening gowns? Shame, shame, shame…those

stylish. I believe that all the designers during

are the epitome of luxury. Especially during this

this time were looking to sell ready-to-wear,

time of the Great Depression where the normal

pre-packaged goods as that was the most

Charles James, 1932, taxi dress, wool/synthetic 25

CJ: Do you not own one of my corselette

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folk are short of

efficient way to make money. We were all

money, these gowns

reflecting upon the tumultuous political

were must-haves in

circumstances around the world, and how it

every woman’s

would play a role in our business. There is also

closet! It is made

supposedly talk of another war going on in

with canary yellow

Germany? Who knows what that will bring in…

organza with a pale

but we designers are looking at these past ten

pink shoestring halter

years as a sullen embodiment of what was

neck, and the over

thrown at the world, and how we can respond

bodice was pulled in

with works of art to brighten up society.

by this decadent yellow quilted corset

Q: Wow that is a deep way to look at these

—vastly unmatched!

past ten years…thank you for sharing your insight into it. One last question before we

Q: Yes it does sound

wrap up: you seem to have a lot of ‘famous’

vastly unmatched

designer friends in your circle. Personally,

what are some of your favorite looks your

theater sets and costumes, murals, decorative

designer friends brought out during this

screens, textiles, scarves, and interior designs

time?

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…the man really did it all. I can go on and on

about my famous friends, but this interview is CJ: Don’t mean to boast, but I do want to say

really about me at the end.

my designs are perhaps the greatest to come out of this time. However, my dear friend Elsa

Q: Well, yes that is correct—this is all about

[Schiaparelli] was essentially another innovator

you indeed. I appreciate you sitting down and

of our time. She was the first one to introduce

talking with us today about your insight into

themed collections…such a forward idea for the

fashion in this time period; you really shed

time we are in now. I enjoyed the collection she

some light on the highlights of such a tough

did in ’37 that celebrated musical iconography 26:

time.

her use of novelty buttons in her themes were unmatched. She also did a snazzy job on her use

CJ: Of course, that is what I am here for…to

of that zip; nothing as good as mine but I will

make you look better and learn more. Thank

give her lots of credit for coming close. Christian

you for having me in today.

Bérard was another dear friend of mine with very high talents in the arts. He produced

Charles James, 1938, evening dress, silk 28

fashion and book illustrations, designs for

T

he best design reveals itself during a long

fatiguing process of digging into the subconscious

-Charles James

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Visuals of the Great Depression: How can the Great Depression era and today’s world have any similar qualities? In a time where economic instability and the possibility of war looms over us, you would be surprised just how many trends from the 30s are still showing in today’s society. Let’s

Adrian, worn by Joan Crawford, 1932

compare some of the top styles from this era to the past few years of the 21st century.

One of the biggest costume designers of the 1930s was Adrian at MGM. As Hollywood glamour was a booming trend throughout this decade, Adrian alongside other popular costume designers were creating costumes to express the personalities of movie characters beloved by many. Pictured here is Joan Crawford in the 1932 “Letty Lynton” 29. This design has been credited to set the stage for making shoulder pads popular.

Today, that classic Hollywood glamour still shines at red carpet events across the event. This is from the 2018 Venice premiere of the movie “A Star is Born” in 2018, with actress Cate Blanchett wearing this sleek Armani Prive black deep V-neck gown 30. With the body-shaping silhouette and the feather shoulder accessories, this dress takes the old Hollywood classic glamour and renovates it to 21st-century style!

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Cate Blanchett, 2018, Venice

Back Then & Today!

The end of the decade brought way to the “Swing era”, thus also the birth of the zoot suit. They were 1935, zoot suits and ivy caps

characterized by excessive fabric and sleeves with pants worn tight at the waist. Jackets were long, and the suit came with a keychain accessory that extended to the knees, as well as a hat traditionally adorned with a feather 31.

Oversized suits have not gone away since the birth of the zoot suit—they have taken over the runways of both menswear and womenswear. Especially in a time of androgynous fashion between genders/ gender-fluid fashion, oversized suits are the norm in fashion taking over the runways today. Pictured to the left is an

Victor Virgile, 2017

outfit from Virgile’s Fall/Winter 2018 collection 32. The oversized coat has stayed the same, however the pants are a take on today’s society as they are more tapered and cropped at the ankle.

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Lingerie in the 1930s had a pivotal turn compared to the lingerie we all know (and wear) today. The three main parts to a lingerie set is: a chemise, soft wireless bra and tap pants.

Tap pants are precisely just soft shorts, but their name originates from shorts worn by tap dancers throughout the 30s. Lingerie here, as shown in the 1931 film “Annabella’s Affairs” 33, was usually made out of silk and rayon and trimmed with lace details. With the creation of

1931 film “Annabella’s Affairs”, silk/rayon

the bra cup in 1939, lingerie had a turning point going forward.

Savage x Fenty, 2020

Lingerie in today’s society has taken on a whole new perspective and role in fashion.

Nowadays, you will see lingerie as something not only worn in the house but out in everyday life: out to work, bars/dinner, etc.

One of the biggest lingerie brands that has been making big waves is Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty line, shown to the left 34. Female rapper Megan Thee Stallion is one of the brand’s ambassadors to showcase her line.

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Another Decade‌Another War: Looking into the 1940s Wartime is an interesting

needed a minimum wardrobe with

concept. At the drop of a pin (literally

maximum versatility. However, styles

and metaphorically!), fashion

were not dull despite the

expenditure will change so fast from

restraints....the fashion press

100 to 0. In peacetime, fashion

emphasized that garments with spirit

expenditure has always been motivated

would retain their desirability

by conspicuous consumption; in

throughout the war. Throughout war

wartime, it is largely determined by

years, modest peasant styles (promoted

necessity. During World War II, women

through Nazi-approved artworks) were in favor and their influence can be seen in high fashion: embroidered blouses, neckerchiefs, suits with embroidered braces, loden capes, evening gowns, etc.

For women, styles were extravagant even though shortages were put into place again. Full cut, lavishly decorated garments had round shoulders and extra wide bishop/ batwing sleeves that were caught into tight wristlet bands. Women also had styles with full bodices into slender molded waists and full skirts.

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The New Look from Christian

As for menswear, the strict

Dior was also one of the top looks from

guidelines placed on during the war

the 40s, and one that is most associated

made it hard for anything new to come

with the decade. The New Look was

out for men. While the zoot suit from

characterized by rounded shoulders, a

the 30s was actively gaining popularity

cinched-in waist, and a significantly

throughout the beginning of this

longer, full skirt 35. Though it is called

decade, men had to get innovative with

the New Look, the styles of this

what was already in their closet. Single-

collection were far from new. Lots of

breasted jackets replaced double-

these styles were from the mid-19th

breasted styles, while lapel size and the

century and almost resembled a

number of pockets were restricted;

ballerina costume. However, it was so

similarly, less material was to be used in

popular during this time because people

the tailoring of trousers, and turn-ups

were tired of the same utilitarian look

were eliminated 37.

and feel of their clothing‌they were urning for something new! His first collection rejected the modern course of dressing established in the 1920s and 30s, which intended to liberate women from the restrictive volumes and corsets of early 20th-century fashion. Instead, he presented an image of radical femininity 36.

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Christian Dior, 1946, New Look 38

Forties Fashion Forward As women started to become a norm in the workforce, the idea of adding pants to their wardrobe was also becoming normalized. At first they just had to make do with wearing men’s pants, but with a growing all-women workforce, pants had to be designed for women as well. Pants were much easier to work in than a skirt or dress, especially in manufacturing jobs. Shown to the left is Hollywood icon Katherine Hepburn wearing a pair of wide flowing pleated pants in 1940. She was a major arbitrator in pushing women’s fashion forward 39.

Katherine Hepburn, 1940, wide flowing pleated pants

closets as a staple fashion piece. In Michael Kors’ Spring/Summer 2020 ready-to-wear collection, wideleg pants were a staple in this collection for women…as shown to the right 40. Wide-pleated pants give off a “powerful stance” to the wearer, so this is a very popular style to all women. In this specific outfit, the matching polka dots pattern gives a modern simple look with the white sandals and a small purse.

Michael Kors, 2020, ready-to-wear

Today, pants are way more normalized in women’s

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2017, Canali, ready-to-wear

1940s, double-breasted & single-breasted suits

The war placed stresses on the major economies of the world and things like fabric became a luxury

In Canali’s Spring 2017 runway, all

that many were unable to afford.

suits of different styles were

Because of this, double-breasted

included: double breasted jackets,

suits became very rare as single-

linen and cotton blends, textured

breasted suits became way more

fabric, summer ivory and whites,

popular. Rationing and shortages

single pleat pants and formal

of many goods led to the slender

jacket construction on non-formal

no fuss suits that the men of the

garments 42. Canali gave a 21st

day would wear 41.

century twist on the doublebreasted suit by making it more fitted to the wearer and making it monochromatic.

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Christian Dior’s New Look collection featured gorgeous full skirts and waist-cinching jackets as a groundbreaking fashion statement for people who were tired of post1947, Christian Dior, Paris

war fashion. On the left is one of Dior’s New Look outfits, as shown in 1947 in Paris 43. While this was not a completely new look in history, Dior played a huge impact in this postwar period.

Looking forward to today, Christian Dior (while he did pass away in 1957) is still a prominent fashion brand moving the bar higher and higher for women’s fashion. In his Fall 2019 2019, Christian Dior, New York

ready-to-wear collection, the brand showcased this look on the runway 44 as an up-to-date “New Look” look. You can see the similarities between the two outfits in both the full-length skirt and the hat, however in this outfit on the left the cinched jacket was replaced with a casual loose t-shirt.

28

The Decade of Balenciaga & American Youth: 1950s Fashion Just as the 1940s

fashion was known at the time). He was

Christian Dior in the

always working on

spotlight, the 1950s did

perfection, never

the same to Cristóbal

sketched anything

Balenciaga as he came

and went straight to Balenciaga, 1950

were mainly the year of

into the decade with a more modern approach to fashion. He was a master of refined,

fabrics. Balenciaga was also very scheduled and segmented, used as

tailored garments and topped all

his exploration/development of his

couture looks...everything he created

ideas.

was blended into perfection. He also

Another factor going into

chose models that were outside the

fashion of the fifties was mainstream

norm: instead of picking skinny

fashion and the use of pop stars/

women he chose to go for women

celebrities. As mainstream fashion

with more “average looks” and

flourished, young people started to

designed his looks for women of all

come together in groups by their

shapes and sizes. Compared to Dior,

shared passions (from pop music to

everything was so different from him

motorcycles) thus developing styles

(ie. bubble skirt going against what

acquainted to their passions.

29

Some examples of these groups

were characterized by post-war

included: American Beats, Beatniks,

times and going into the Cold War

Teddy Boys, American cowboys,

era, especially when compared to

Ton-Up Boys, etc. Teddy girls were

Paris (the pre-fashion capital of the

women who dressed more mens-

world). American design was more

inspired (rolled up jeans, jacket, flat

casual than haute couture,

shoes). American beatnik kids fed

especially as French couture took a

into the youth rejecting their

fall of grace. Clare Mcardell birthed

parents generational values and the

the “American look�--more casual

conformist mindset; which led more

with simple soft skirts (in which we

into a scruy appearance. The

can see some renditions today),

rocker/greaser wore lots of leather,

kitten heels and tailored suits

was more male-targeted/lower class

becoming popular. With this

teenagers rebelling against society.

characterization here in the states

While all of these looks had their

occurring, the teenage target

custom style to go with their

market started to be created and

personality, they all had one main

utilized.

trait in common...they all were young people with a rebellious attitude and an anti-fashion look.

American design in this era also took a hard look at their own image as they

Beatniks, 1958, 45

30

Halftime: 50 years into With a scuffed-up appearance and an attitude of “I’m always right”, beat kids were the “cool kids” of the 1950s. Shown above is poet Gregory Corso, painter/musician Larry Rivers, writer Jack Kerouac, musician David Amram and poet Allen Ginsburg in New York in the late 1950s 46.

These kids were the new trend-setters for fashion: they wore what they want and everyone else could follow or not!

The beats’ boy club, late-1950s, New York

31

the 20th Century!

Highsnobiety, 2018

It is interesting to note that in today’s society, there isn’t as many typical “subcultures” as much as there was in the 50s onward. While some people are claiming that subcultures died in the 2010s, it is precisely quite the opposite…subcultures are the new pop culture!

One subculture from today that is very similar to the attitude and dress of beat kids are skaters: with the loose/baggy clothes and the carefree attitude (along with the occasional “I don’t care” attitude), skaters can definitely be coined as the modern-day beatniks 47.

32

Marilyn Monroe was one of the most iconic actress & fashion figures throughout the fifties.

Shown to the left is her at the 1953 “How to Marry a Millionaire” premiere in California 48. Monroe

American designer Julia Cavallaro showcased her Marilyn Monroe-inspired designs (shown right) at one of the shows during the 2015 Summer/Fall Furniture Market in Las Vegas 49. She was inspired by the sleek, form-fitting sparkly floor length gown with the deep cowl neckline. Cavallaro designed the gown with keeping in mind Monroe’s spirit and iconic status, so she will be forever remembered.

33

of her time: her classic style and appearance in legendary films has made her a timeless figure in history.

Summer/Fall Furniture Market, Julia Cavallaro, 2015, Las Vegas

Marilyn Monroe, 1953

was the perfect icon and celebrity

Balenciaga, 2015, shift dress, 51

Balenciaga, 1957, sack dress

Balenciaga introduced the babydoll dress, also known as the sack dress (shown above) in 1957

A simple black dress is a closet

to women. This simple sheath

staple, so Balenciaga updated his

dress continued his theme of

to the 21st century with a shorter

abstracting the body, with its

hem and accentuated shoulders,

trapeze-like shape skimming the

as shown above. The silhouette of

waist 50.

the shift dress is still the same from the 50s, as those never go out of style!

34

The Swingin’ 60s!

Balenciaga started off this year

On the other hand, the U.S. was

strong with him making ultra-refined

relatively rare in outlandish fashion

clothes and, for evening wear,

when compared to Europe. The U.S.

experimented with exaggerated

was more so about conservative

geometric shapes in stiff silk gazar.

functional fashion. When JFK came into

However, moving into this decade, Yves

office in 1960 & Jacqueline Kennedy

Saint Laurent definitely took control of

becoming the First Lady, she

the fashion space. Speaking of space,

automatically assumed a high-profile

the space race also heavily influenced

role as an international fashion leader.

1960s culture in which fashion was

For 3 years, she topped America’s best-

definitely apart of this. Italian

dressed list by setting a trend for

couturiers maintained their

clothes with clean, uncluttered lines in

international standing with

plain, pure colors. Politics are now also

sophisticated collections--womenswear

a big influence on fashion and will sure

was characterized by powerful shapes in

set the trends to come.

bright Mediterranean colors. However, Italy’s major triumphs in the early 60s was menswear--Italian tailoring was the ultimate in cutting-edge style. Naples and Milan were centers for mens’ fashion but Rome became the most important style center.

President JFK, 1962, 52

35

gton D.C 1961, Washin y, d e n n e K e Jacquelin

Jacqueline Kennedy 53 was one of the main celebrities of this decade, as she played an important role in both

.

society, in which fashion reflected that greatly.

At first, everyone was in a

politics and fashion! She would consciously

downward spiral about the assassination—

used her fashion & appearance as ways to

it put people in a dark and scary place over

craft a message to the public, in which she

the next few years. However, something

used her infamous monochromatic color

did indeed come out of the dark: bright

palette, boxy tailored hats & pillbox hats.

and exotic colors from bohemian/

Jacqueline felt a lot of pressure as the First

countercultural impulses! It was an escape

Lady to wear American designers all the

from the dark, harsh reality that everyone

time, so she used fashion as a way to

lived in, it was very similar to the 20s and

embody the First Lady role! President JFK’s

even today, and the shape of the attire was

assassination in 1963 put a big damper as

heavily influenced by the sexual revolution going on as well.

36

Swing on in with These

Yves Saint Laurent, Mondrian day dress, 1965, 54

Similarities!

YSL, Couture Spring, 2002

This YSL color block

Not only 40 years later, YSL

dress from his 1965 Mondrian

does a Couture Spring 2002 with a very

collection is the most enduring

similar color blocking pattern being

collaboration he has done:

used. This is paying homage to their

containing six shift dresses in

Mondrian line that did so well

homage to Piet Mondrian &

beforehand, so they put an upgraded

the colorful designs.

spin to the pattern!

37

Beatniks, 1958, 45

Chanel, tweed suit, 1961, 55

Mrs. Jackie Kennedy never went to any public event without dressing with impeccable taste. Shown to the left is one of her famous outfits: the Oleg Cassini or Chanel suits 55. With matching accessories and clean cuts, the monochromatic skirt and jacket duo sets the stage for any political figure to come forward and send her message out for all to listen.

In 2012, Princess Mary of Denmark drew inspiration from the First Lady when she was visiting South Korea with her husband, pictured on the right 56. The pillboxlike hat, the cut and color of the dress and the low nude heels suggest this was a page taken right out of Jackie Kennedy’s style book, and made it towards the Princess’s personal style!

Beatniks, 1958, 45 Denmark Princess, 2012, South Korea

38

1960s, sports jackets

Patterned sports blazers were all the rage during the 60s for menswear: with their bright colors and fun patterns (as shown here to the left 57), they are sure to make a statement at the next party!

Gucci’s Fall 2020 menswear couture line had very similar suits to the pattern sports blazers shown above. In this specific photo to the right, the model is wearing a purple plaid striped suit with an oversized jacket, loosely-fitted pants and simple earth-toned accessories 58.

Beatniks, 1958, 45

39

Gucci, 2020, Milan, couture menswear

Sweep Me Up in the 70s!

To start us off outside of fashion,

look was abandoned for more so of a

there were many other events going on

“grown up” look. Some of the works that

around the world: Inflation was

influenced this movement included: The

occurring in the industry--especially in

Feminine Mystique by Betty Friedan

part with the economic crisis brought on

(1963), The Female Ennuch by Germaine

by the price increase of oil (up 70%) in

Greer & Sexual Politics by Kate Millet

1973, that same year, the Vietnam War

(1970).

ended...but riots and protests of all sorts

By the mid 70s, fashion had

continued: race riots, student protests in

become increasingly diverse and split

America and Europe, thus creating a

into two large areas: classic easy-to-wear

global escalation of terrorist attacks. In

and fantasy clothes. Miniskirts’ rigid and

the early 70s, members of the Women’s

stiff silhouette replaced by an elegant

Liberation Movement tended to lean

long silhouette of the mini & maxi skirts,

towards more anti-fashion. A lot of

alongside women starting to wear

various literatures had a heavy influence

trousers more! Although Paris continued

on many fashion-conscious and socially

to be one of the strongest fashion

aware young women. The “little girl”

capitals in the world, Milan and New York continued to be top capitals as well. Some of the popular garments/accessories of the 70s included: ultra suede, midi, maxi, hot pants, platform shoes/boots, and designer jeans.

Beatniks, 1958, 45

Vietnam War Protests, 1968, Washington D.C., 59

40

Mick Jagger, 1971

Balenciaga closed his Paris house at 73, towards the end of the 60s. He declared haute couture to be done and over with. The death of Chanel in 1971 also marked yet another decline in the stage of couture. The decline of haute couture led to the traditions of bi-seasonal collections and the increase of the pret-Ã-porter collections. On the other hand, the 60s look was not immediately successful in America because women found it unappealing and dated. In an attempt to overcome this resistance this decade, designers included maxis and midis with long slits up the front and side to show off some leg. Flares were also a huge component of the fashionable male wardrobe. The youthful silhouette featured a tight torso and “second skin”-like trousers/jeans (hug the legs to just beyond the knee and then flare out to wide hems).

The pop scene was another major fashion force, especially when it comes to menswear. Ideas borrowed from pop musicians appeared in the high street with few modifications. Such musicians include: Mick Jagger, Gary Glitter, Marc Bolan, David Bowie, Bob Dylan, John Lennon, Yoko Ono, etc.

41

Beatniks, 1958, 45

Jumpsuits, 1970s

Studio54, jumpsuit, Lena Hoshek

Groovy Looking Past & Present!

A lot of the fashion from this period shares the same

This Studio54 piece by Lena Hoshek is the modern-day

overall foundation: the silhouette

version of our classic jumpsuit

is an upside-down Y, with narrow

from the ‘70s! This version is a

tops and wide bottoms. Shown

lot more fitted in the leg and

above is a one-piece jumpsuit

has a smaller/shorter hem. Yet

from the mid-70s, modeled by

it is still form-fitting to the body

two beautiful women on the

Beatniks, and shows o the curves 61. 1958, 45

beach 60.

42

Menswear in the 1970s was similar to the womenswear: colorful, upside-down Y silhouette, use of patterns, fitted, etc. Shown to the left is a prime example of this: three men in colorful bell-bottom trousers, striped tucked in shirts and a thick belt 62.

Today, that same energy of bright colors and fitted tapered silhouettes shines through on the runway, as shown below with Prada’s Fall 2017 collection 63. The three looks are fun bright and a good insight into what was worn in the 70s that translates into today.

Beatniks, 1958, 45

43

While not a specific example of fashion, the anti-war movement that was spreading throughout this period was very influential on fashion going forward. Shown here on the left is a woman holding a sign protesting against the U.S. involvement in the Vietnam War 64. It is a very big topic that made a lot of noise during the time being!

Another very similar looking movement that is shaping our society today is the Black Lives Matter movement, protesting the merciless killings & police brutality of Black people in our country, shown on the right. While the two movements are protesting dierent matters, they are still both massive movements of justice in our country that shape the society we live in going forward.

Beatniks, 1958, 45

44

Excited About the 80s!

The 80s brought on a shift

bell-shaped skirt that combined the

towards far more expensive and

outline of a child's party frock with an

flamboyant fashion, which reflected a

abbreviated version of the Victorian

more money-obsessed & image-

crinoline

conscious society. Seeing someone

London had once again become

wear all these high-end designer

the center of the club scene and youth

clothes and accessories would signal

style, with designers creating feisty,

someone’s wealth. Finance was a big

amusing and challenging designs for a

trend as the media glorified the

consumer obsessed with convention.

lifestyles and huge salaries of those

Some popular London designers of this

who worked in that industry. Some

time period are: Vivienne Westwood,

popular garments through the eighties

Malcolm McLaren, John Galliano,

are: power suit, pouf skirt, mini-crini

Katherine Hammet and Body Map.

and sneakers. The power suits had both pant and skirt options, shoulder pads creating strong shoulders and jackets with straight lines.

They were taking cues from the masculine closet to offer a sense of empowerment and credibility. The mini-crini, on the other hand, was a short,

45

The booming international economies of the early to mid-80s did a lot to ensure the survival of the haute couture industry, couture clients still were around 2-3 thousand women worldwide. Out of the 2-3k women, however, probably 600-700 people consistently bought on a regular basis. YSL remained a lead player in this decade with collections that paid tributes to fine art and the exotic elements of non-Western cultures--it featured his meticulous tailoring that included variations on his famous smoking tuxedo suits.

Another trend that heavily marked the 80s was the workout craze. Everywhere you looked, there was something along the lines of heath and fitness incorporated into your wardrobe!

46

Insanely Active 80s Fashion!

In the streets of London, this denim street style look would be an outfit you would see a lot as denim was a big trend during this time, as shown in the picture on the left 65.

1984, London

Today on the runway, Celine put on a collection of denim from her Spring 2020 collection, shown on the right 66.

2019, Celine

47

The Thirty-Year Difference…

This picture shown on the left shows menswear for the 80s 67. It was really popular for them to wear denim pants, faux leather pants, and associating jackets (denim and leather).

This picture shown on the bottom left shows how celebrities are taking menswear trends from the 80s 68.

You can see how they take

the original outfit idea and modernize it to today’s world to make it an outfit that they wear to go run errands!

48

The last thing to compare from the ‘80s to today is not a fashion piece but more so another movement: this time being the fitness craze.

Back in the eighties, as shown in the picture on the left 69, the women is dressed head-to-toe in what is easily noticeable as workout gear. This represents that she is going to workout and that she cares enough about her body/looks she has the time to go work out. We see this same ideal in today’s society: but in this case it is with popular brands. Shown on the picture on the right is just one example of a celebrity wearing all Nike products head-to-toe 70. This has the same concept from the eighties: it shows that this person has the money to aord this brand and cares about his image/body enough to support that brand.

49

The Finale: 1990s!

To get going on our last decade

homemade, customized or second-hand

being covered, we got to look at the

were worn in layers and accessorized (for

main pictures within these last ten

both sexes) with heavy ex-army boots.

years! Some of the big influences of the

The 90s also had more of a dressed-

decade include: hip-hop, grunge,

down, minimalistic look--especially

postmodernism, historicism, minimalism

contrasted to the 80s of bright colors

and deconstructionism. Some of the

and funky styles. One of the most

popular designers included: Karl

significant fashion phenomena of the

Lagerfeld, Jean Paul Gaultier, John

90s was the active promotion of

Galliano (Paris), Vivienne Westwood,

supermodels. The fame of Linda

Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan

Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Claudia

(London), Versace, Moschino, Tom Ford

Schier, Kate Moss, Honor Fraser, etc.,

(Milan), Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Ralph

rivals that of top film and pop stars and

Lauren (New York).

has done much to retain public interest

Fashion house fortunes were once

in high fashion.

again stopped by another war...this time it being the Gulf War. It also halted the successful trade with the Arab Emirate countries and also led to a drop in dutyfree perfume sales. In the early 90s, punk and hippie staples combined to form the grunge look.

Grunge was a colorful, disheveled style in which clothes that were

50

1992, Cindy Crawford

The early 90s came in a rush of

Even in 2018, brands such as

dark colors, bright patterns, neon,

Versace and Michael Kors were

leather and stockings as punk

still showing these bright

grunge took over the first half of

colored plaid sets! Pictured

the decade, as shown in the

above is Versace’s F/W 2018

picture above 71.

line, with a matching oversized jacket and skirt both in a purple plaid color 72.

51

The 90s were known for their minimalistic approach as they go through the years since they were tired of the bright and fun colors of the 80s. This dress to the left 73 is an example of a slip dress women would wear out that is very easy take on/o and wear to any occasion!

Today, we still see slip dress in a very similar shape and form‌it is a classic timeless style that never goes away. This slip dress to the left is from Calvin Klein 74.

Beatniks, 1958, 45

52

I know you’re probably thinking…what in the world do Naomi Campbell and Addison Rae have in common with each other? It’s not the person that has a similarity…it is the role they play in society. At the top left is supermodel Naomi Campbell 75. As a supermodel, she has a lot of power and say in the industry: what trends she likes, who she is wearing, etc.

Meet TikTok star Addison Rae down at the bottom left 76.

She is an influencer to the 21st century, recently within the past year or so because of her massive social media following. She holds all the same power as Campbell does, just a different job!

Beatniks, 1958, 45

53

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2 From

Mendes, V. D., & Haye, M. L. (2010). Chapter 1: 1900-1913: Undulations and Exotica . In Fashion since 1900 (2nd ed., pp.

10–47). essay, Thames & Hudson. 3 From

Mendes, V. D., & Haye, M. L. (2010). Chapter 1: 1900-1913: Undulations and Exotica . In Fashion since 1900 (2nd ed., pp.

10–47). essay, Thames & Hudson. 4 From

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Beatniks, 1958, 45

Endnotes 15

From Mendes, V. D., & Haye, M. L. (2010). Chapter 2: 1914-1929: La Garconne and the New Simplicity. In Fashion since 1900 (pp.

48-75). London: Thames & Hudson.

16 From

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vintage-photos-showing-amazing-womens-street-style-1920s/.

18Â

From Marinelli, G. (2020). Who What Wear. photograph. https://www.whowhatwear.com/1920s-fashion/slide3.Â

19Â

From Session, D. (2015). Dapper men in suits and straw boater hats. Vintage Dancer. photograph. https://vintagedancer.com/1920s/

1920s-fashion-men/. 20Â

From Groce, N. (2019, June 20). Versace's SS20 Collection Showcases "Contemporary Masculinity". Retrieved December 09, 2020,

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76-103). London: Thames & Hudson.

25 From

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845783640 Met Collection API (Author). Retrieved December 10, 2020, from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/171965 (Originally photographed 1932)Â 26From

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27 From

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1120336499 845838814 Met Collection APi (Ed.). Retrieved from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/172057 (Originally photographed 1938)

29From

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76-103). London: Thames & Hudson.

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