BRISTER’S BRIEF
The Bad Floater is Everybody’s Nightmare Gentle persuasion is the key to coaxing a newbie on to a float, writes CHARLIE BRISTER, who has a few ideas to help along the way.
G
Also, make sure you have an experienced horse person, or, even if you are experienced, another experienced person, to help during training. Especially with a straight load because someone needs to close the bar after you’ve got the horse on to the float - before they learn to stand perfectly still for you.
No 1 Goal: Safety for you and the horse Equipment is important; make sure
6
Remember to chill out. The most important thing is to build confidence and relaxation – for both the horse and rider!
Check the float is ready A small hay bag should be firmly attached to the front area of the float to serve as a reward for successful loading. As this is training just load a single horse. In a straight float it is generally better to load a single horse on the driver side of the float.
Don’t forget to make sure the float is attached to the car - with the brake on! (It happens.)
How many times have you heard of a horse refusing to load on the morning of a competition? Or seen a bunch of people flapping around a horse which is refusing to load up so that everyone can go home after an event?
If you don’t own a float, work out how to borrow one for training. A horse that loads well is much more likely to be invited to hitch-hike!
(I know that there are arguments for and against floating boots for travelling – but that is not for this article.).
Make sure the tailgate has both sides on the ground so it doesn’t rock when the horse takes its first steps off the ground.
etting your horse on the float.
Floating should be part of training well before competition day. Floating should be firmly established so that it doesn’t add stress to the horse or rider and cause a public riot.
about their legs during training use some tendon and bell boots.
First things first Follow basic lead rope handling principals. Never wrap the lead around your hand. Make sure you have folded loops across your palm and are not trailing rope or tripping over it.
you’re wearing proper boots, gloves and helmet. An upset horse can knock your head in a small space so take care. Always use a dressage whip so you can stay near the head of the horse and still tap their side. A good rope halter works best because it is more definite with the pressure and immediately goes soft when you release it because they have moved forward. (Thereby using pressure/release as your key to letting the horse know it’s doing the right thing.) I would not suggest having floating boots on when they are first being trained to float. If you are concerned
HORSEVIBES MAGAZINE - AUGUST 2019
I generally like a lead rope around two metres long but up to three metres in fine. Before you take the horse anywhere near the float, practice using halter pressure to make the horse come forward and also to back up. If you have an angle float the horse will also need to be able to calmly yield its hind quarters from a gentle tap on the hip. If the horse cannot perform these basic actions on the ground, don’t attempt to teach them on the float.
Introducing the float Bring the horse confidently toward the rear of the float without a real goal to put it on. Be happy if it just stands calmly by the tailgate and looks inside. Allow the horse to sniff the tailgate
