SPOTLIGHT: Caribbean Without the Crowds

By Diana Ballon

Escape to the tiny island of Barbuda, a natural haven for bird lovers, beach enthusiasts and those who just love to chill.

My first view of Barbuda was from the front seat of a CalvinAir Helicopter on a short 15-minute ride from its twin island, Antigua, a mere 60 kilometres away. Gazing down on its turquoise waters, deserted pinkhued coral and white sand beaches, and the mostly flat, low-lying tree-covered landscape, was breathtaking. It was a captivating patchwork of green, aquamarine and beige.

BARBUDA PINK SAND BEACH AT CEDAR TREE POINT

© ANTIGUA AND BARBUDA

After almost two years of being in Canada riding out the pandemic, Barbuda seemed like an idyllic place to visit. I love islands of all types, but this one, which was lesser known and not on the radar of many travellers, seemed special. I was excited to experience it for the first time. Although just over half the size of Antigua, it has just a tiny fraction of the population of its larger neighbour.

This is good news for those seeking a natural haven far from the crowds of tourists and cruise passengers back in Antigua. It is surprising more people don’t combine a trip to Antigua with a brief visit to Barbuda, given the easy access. Daily, there are two flights between the two islands as well as a 1.5-hour daily ferry.

THE BARBUDA EXPRESS FERRY ARRIVING INTO BARBUDA

Once arriving at the Barbuda Codrington Airport, our small group hit the road. Dodging potholes along a road skirting the island’s west coast, we pass children in flip flops, their knapsacks bobbing up and down on their backs as they rode donkeys. We see horses grazing in the fields and colourful concrete houses with corrugated metal roofs. Those bucolic scenes really showed a different side of Caribbean life – a simplicity and a slower pace not always seen in other more developed destinations. It remains largely unspoiled and that’s at the heart of what makes Barbuda so unique.

Our first Barbudan adventure involved boarding a small water shuttle to Codrington Lagoon National Park, stretching about 27 kilometres along the west coast of the island.

A VISIT TO BARBUDA'S MAGNIFICENT FRIGATE BIRD SANCTUARY

© VISUAL ECHO

It is home to a bird sanctuary where the largest colony of frigates in the Western Hemisphere live. When I visit in late November, it is prime mating season for these large, magnificent birds. As we approach a cluster of mangroves, I am gobsmacked to see literally thousands of the males with their big red throat pouches inflated like balloons to attract mates perched nearby.

FRIGATE BIRD

© ANTIGUA AND BARBUDA

Barbuda also has stunning, secluded beaches rimming the sparkling turquoise waters. They have attracted famous people like Robert De Niro and Wyclef Jean. Others like Eric Clapton and Giorgio Armani have homes on Antigua nearby. The relaxed vibe, welcoming locals and the ability to enjoy privacy holds great appeal to those used to living in the spotlight. De Niro loves the island so much that he is investing in its hospitality offerings, including Nobu Beach Inn and Nobu Restaurant, which is recognized internationally for its Japanese cuisine.

ENJOY A GOOD MEAL AND BEAUTIFUL BEACH VIEW AT NOBU

© NOBU RESTAURANT

The eatery and hotel are located on the 18-kilometre crescent-shaped Princess Diana Beach (named after the late royal who loved to escape there on holiday). It’s considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean, thanks to its silky, powdery sand, calm, clear waters and sheer size. And yet it still feels like you’re far removed from the rest of the world. No towering hotels, no vendors, no loud beach bars. Just pure serenity that feels truly restorative.

I was recovering from a knee injury when I visited and I took full advantage of its easy-going, unhurried nature. Though I focused on relaxing, there are more active alternatives to how I spent my time – relaxing with a book on the beach. Visitors can snorkel, discover the island’s sinkholes and caves, like Darby's Cave, a sinkhole cave with a forest inside, and the caves at Two Foot Bay to see petroglyphs created by the Arawak, the indigenous people who were the original inhabitants of Barbuda as well as other places in the Caribbean. (You may also spot some cool critters, like iguanas, there.)

Barbuda is truly a beautiful, tranquil place for a getaway, even if it’s just for a day or two. There aren’t a lot of options for accommodations, but there are luxury beachfront bungalows, villas and some modest hotels. In addition to high-end beachfront homes, new hotels and an 18-hole golf course currently being built, private jets will soon be able to fly in and out of the new Barbuda airport, slated for completion in late 2022. Now is the time to visit.