5 minute read
WELLNESS: Finding Calm in India
by Ensemble
By Martha Beach
A long-time yoga devotee heads to Rishikesh for six weeks to study, practice and find a deepened connection between body and soul.
I had fallen in love with the practice and philosophy of yoga, and had spent six years seriously studying and practicing at home in Toronto. I’d completed multiple trainings, but my dream was to study in India. So, I had decided to sign up for the 300-hour program at Abhayaranya Yoga Ashram, run by the yoga school Rishikesh Yogpeeth in the foothills of the Himalayas. I was set to leave for India on my first solo trip. I was a nervous wreck, wondering why I’d chosen to fly across the globe by myself.
ABHAYARANYA YOGA ASHRAM
© ABHAYARANYA YOGA ASHRAM
When I arrived, my jet-lagged self was not ready for the overwhelming crowds, constant honking and diesel fumes of New Delhi. I spent a couple of days there. The extreme change of environment forced me into a mindful, everpresent state. My worries washed away with the waves of wild traffic, foreign tongues and lavish aromas. As I sat in the green-and-yellow tuk-tuks racing through the city, I felt at one with the chaos of the streets and enjoyed the serenity of Lodhi Gardens' pathways. The architecture of the tomb of Isa Khan, a nobleman who died in 1548, was awe-inspiring with its tall columns and a dome adorned with Persian floral art. I find joy in the small things of the city – stainless steel trays of daal, saag paneer and roti, accompanied by sweet, milky chai, and the hours spent lost among the colourful market stalls.
LODHI GARDENS, NEW DELHI
As intoxicating as Delhi was, I was eager to get to Rishikesh, which was a seven-hour taxi ride away on the banks of the sacred Ganga River. Not only is Rishikesh the birthplace of yoga, it’s also an extremely popular vacation destination for Indians and tourists alike. The main road was more like a parking lot, so I switched vehicles and travelled the rest of the way on the back of a motorbike driven by a teen boy who deftly navigated his way through the traffic.
Eventually, I was dropped off on the side of a shady, treelined road. From there, a sweaty 30-minute hike up the mountain’s well-worn path brought me to the ashram and I settled into one of the cottages on the tiered grounds. Finally, I was somewhere quiet. In awe of the stillness, I listened to bird songs and inhaled the sweet scent of jasmine.
Classes began the next morning. Rising at 5 a.m. to the toll of a bell, we started the day with neti pot cleansing, meditation and mantra practice. During breaks, I watched the sun finish cresting around the edge of the mountain. Next, we did a rigorous physical practice lasting until the 9 a.m. breakfast. The cuisine was classic vegan fare made in a large earthen-floor kitchen in massive pots. All 20 of us chanted together and ate in two rows facing each other while seated on the floor at low wooden tables. We passed spicy pickles and rich ghee up and down the lines as we chatted quietly.
The rest of the day contained lectures on anatomy and philosophy, lunch, study and another two hours of yoga practice, followed by dinner and group discussions. I felt comfortable in the repetition, and I settled into the security of my own meditative and physical asana practice. At 9 p.m., I’d head to bed exhausted yet completely satisfied, pondering introspective questions as I fell asleep.
LAKSHMAN JHULA BRIDGE AND TERA MANZIL TEMPLE, RISHIKESH
For six weeks, I continued this pattern. Occasionally, I hiked to the Patna Waterfall or a nearby temple. Sundays offered the option to venture down the mountain to explore Rishikesh and its fruit sellers, chai stalls, ambling cows and sunbathing dogs. Sometimes, I decided to stay at the ashram to play with two snow-white bunnies or read in a shaded green nook overlooking the main pathway. Often, people from the village farther up the mountain would pass, taking bundles of neem (a natural herb from which oil is made) down, or coming up with their mules laden with rice and other staples from town.
WRITER MARTHA BEACH PLAYING WITH SNOW-WHITE BUNNIES
© MARTHA BEACH
On graduation day, I was wrapped into a handmade blue sari with gold trim. I proudly took my diploma back home. I also took home things that were so much more important: a deepened connection with my body and mind, a wealth of philosophic knowledge, an appreciation of Indian culture, a newfound ability to let go of control and to tap into the deep well of stability inside myself.
Our Experts Suggest
EAT, PRAY AND LOVE IN INDIA
If you want to indulge your senses and focus on wellness in Northern India but can’t spend six weeks practicing yoga in an ashram, many itineraries can still cater to your needs. &Beyond has an eight-night journey from Delhi to Amritsar and Agra that promises a sensory immersion with intoxicating colours, a delightful cacophony of sounds and vibrant flavours.
You’ll explore the Agrasen ki Baoli, a protected monument with incredible serenity, visit the awe-inspiring tomb of Isa Khan, witness a tranquil view of the Taj Mahal at sunset, enjoy a Balinese deep pressure massage and so much more.
You can also add a tour of the local ashrams to your itinerary. A visit to these holy places and spiritual hermitages will give you a deep sense of peace and harmony as you spend time in thought in one of the meditation halls.
