HIDDEN GEM: Ride of a Lifetime

A writer travels to Slovenia, the undiscovered jewel of Central Europe, to explore its plentiful charms.

By Robin Esrock

Wandering the streets and canals of old Ljubljana (say it with me: Yoo-bli-yana), I’m reminded of Copenhagen, Stockholm and Budapest. Yet Slovenia’s capital feels cleaner, compact and more civilized, immaculately maintained with artsy cafés, Old-World architecture, copper church steeples, ample bike lanes and manicured parks.

Locals roam about, stylishly dressed in that casual, modern European manner of looking fantastic without much effort. Students bike across the Game of Thrones-ish Dragon Bridge and distinctive Triple Bridge, the public art is impressive, and even the urban graffiti is tasteful. Overlooked by the 900-year-old Ljubljana Castle, the city is a template for any great European capital, but with half the tourists.

PANORAMA OF LJUBLJANA

Canadians know that any country sitting in the shadow of a more popular neighbour is often overlooked. Spare a thought for Slovenia, a small nation in Central Europe within sight – quite literally – of Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia. Although located just a few hours’ drive from Venice, Milan, Salzburg, Budapest and Zagreb, many of us would be hard pressed to locate Ljubljana on the map, much less be able to pronounce it. I didn’t expect to discover a fetching historical capital, frosted mountain peaks, sparkling lakes, Adriatic coastline and dense forest. Instead, I came initially for Slovenia’s famous white horses.

KAYAKING ON THE RIVER SOČA, SLOVENIA

Let me explain. I blame it on The NeverEnding Story. If you’ve seen this iconic 80s fantasy film – or read the bestselling book, you’ll know the scene when its hero, Atreyu, struggles to save Artax, his regal white horse, from sinking into the Swamp of Sadness. When Artax was lost, 10-year-old me was devastated. Many blog posts and articles have been written about how that single scene scarred an entire generation. Two decades of travel have inspired me to face my biggest hang-ups head on. I kicked a shark phobia by cage diving with great whites and a fear of heights with a tandem skydive. Now, I wanted to get over the loss of Artax and Slovenia was the place to do it.

Tall, muscular and loyal Artax was likely a Lipizzaner, a fabled white horse breed that has dazzled classical riding events and military processions for centuries. Bred for nobility since the late 16th-century, the home of the Lipizzaner is Lipica, a gorgeous Slovenian farm located near the border of Italy. Today, it’s a mecca for horse lovers, tourists and perhaps the odd Gen-Xers like myself coming to terms with their poor choice of 80s movies. I spent a weekend at the stables, learning the long, fascinating history of these magnificent horses, watching public dressage shows, and riding a mare into the dazzlingly lush countryside. As the ghost of Artax rode off into the mythical meadows of my imagination, Slovenia took my curiosity by the reins and enticed me to keep exploring it.

LIPICA FARM, HOME OF THE LIPIZZANER HORSES

© MITJA BOZIC - VIR KOBILARNA LIPICA

I headed for the country’s premier attraction, historic Lake Bled. Sitting at the foothills of the towering Julian Alps, you might have seen images of Lake Bled on screensavers, Instagram or any platform hoping to elicit a ‘wow, where the hell is that?’ response. ‘WOW’ got cap-locked the moment Lake Bled came into my view. Framed by mountains, the placid, emerald-coloured water has a small island in the centre with a notable European landmark – a gothic church that was first consecrated in the 12th century and restored to its current state in the 17th century. As comedian Eddie Izzard once quipped: “Europe… where history comes from.”

SCENIC LAKE BLED

© JOŠT GANTAR

Couples flock from around the continent for destination weddings in one of several grand lakeside hotels, the remains of former royal palaces. Local tradition holds that grooms must carry their bride up the 99 steep steps to the chapel and ring the church bell three times for good luck.

Judging by the immense strain I saw on the faces of several young men, carrying someone up those stairs and then ringing a heavy bell is more difficult than it appears. For me, I was content to fall in love with the warm, azure water, the 400-year-old rowboat transportation (called pletnas), and a location so stunning that Hollywood could forego the special effects when it comes to film the next blockbuster fantasy.

THE 400-YEAR-OLD ROWBOATS CALLED PLETNAS

It’s easy to get around Slovenia, too. South of Ljubljana, I found myself talking to historical reenactors outside Predjama Castle, a striking medieval fortress built into solid rock. It added an authentic touch to legends of outlaw robber-thieves, battling the forces of the invading empire. Back in the capital, I enjoyed its culinary offerings, influenced by the country’s location – outstanding pivo (beer) with a nod to Hungary, memorable pizza and gelato from Italy, and schnitzel and pastry courtesy of Austria.

THE MEDIEVAL PREDJAMA CASTLE

© ALAN KOSMAC

On a glorious summer evening, I was people-watching on the canal banks, and, like most visitors to Slovenia, I found myself regretting I didn’t allocate more time for my visit. More time to explore all-season mountain resorts known throughout Europe for both beauty and affordability, to hike, bike, and discover the country’s waterfalls and world-renowned show caves (i.e. those open and accessible to the public). And more time for fine wine produced from the grapes of ancient vines in the city of Maribor.

It’s a common complaint from anyone who discovers this Central European gem, thriving peacefully within the shadow of its more popular neighbours. I raise my glass of pivo and make a toast to Artax. Though we don’t always need an unusual excuse to gallop towards lesser-known countries, it certainly helped me discover a beautiful one like Slovenia.

Our Experts Suggest

SLOVENIA EXPLORER

Kensington Tours offers a six-day Slovenia Explorer itinerary to immerse yourself in the country’s authentic experiences. Spend your days walking the historic streets of Ljubljana on a guided city tour, visiting the Postojna Caves, Predjama Castle and Lipica equestrian park, exploring the 1,000-year-old town of Bled and strolling around its picturesque lake, learning about cheese making and organic beekeeping in the countryside, and much more. The itinerary can be customized to suit your interests, tastes and budget, so be sure to contact your travel advisor to learn more.