Engadin Magazin Nr 10_en by Engadin St. Moritz

M A G A Z I N E No . 10

AIR

SUMMER ENGLISH

Engadin

Engadin Summer / Autumn

Germany

SWITZERLAND France

Austria

GR AUBÜNDE N

Diavolezza

Piz Palü, 3905 m

Diavolezza, 2978 m

Piz Lagalb, 2959 m

Piz Lavirun, 3058 m

Punta Casana, 3007 m

Karte: Rohweder Karte: Rohweder Punta Saliente, 3048 m

Italy

Piz Cambrena, 3604 m

UPPER ENGADIN

Italy

Lago Bianco

Bernina Pass

Swiss National Park

PON

ZERNEZ CINUOS-CHEL CHAPELLA

S-CHANF

ZUOZ

LA PUNTCHAMUES-CH MADULAIN

SA ME DAN BEVER

➞

Dear guests, From the depths of Val Bregaglia, a warm breeze climbs its way up the Maloja Pass, winding around the 13 hairpin bends along the route. That breeze is the legendary Maloja wind, which blows along the floor of the valley in the Engadin, making the local lakes ideal for water sports and giving the light a special glow. The wind carries the scents of the Swiss stone pine forests and mountain meadows into the villages and side valleys, up to the mountains where elite athletes train, and down to the golf courses where players send their golf balls soaring. Why not come and visit us for a breath of fresh air?

St.Moritzersee

S T. M O R I T Z DORF

Piz Fora, 3363 m

Piz Tremoggla, 3441 m

Piz Led, 3088 m

Maloja Pass

Lej da Segl

PONTRESINA

S T. M O R I T Z B A D

Fex

Va l

Photo: Filip Zuan

Cover: Hike Furtschellas – Fex

Piz Corvatsch, 3451 m

Piz Surlej, 3188 m

Piz Murtèl, 3433 m

Piz Roseg, 3937 m

Piz Scerscen, 3971 m

Piz Palü, 3905 m

Piz Bernina, 4049 m

A warm welcome is waiting for you. The people of Engadin

SURLEJ Lej da Champfèr

Lej da Silvaplauna

M A LOJ A

SILS

S I LVA PL A N A

CHAMPFÈR Julier Pass Corviglia

CELERINA

Nord

p. 66

p. 82

p. 50

p. 18

Content

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

5 p. 34

06 14 18 20 30 34 36 38

46 50 52 62

66 68 70 78 82

p. 98

Photo 50: Ralph Martin, Adobe Stock / Photo 66: Kulturarchiv Oberengadin

84 86 94 98 100 102 110

114 114

INTRODUCTION Fun in the Fresh Air Wind and waves await. N AT Ü R A Follow Your Nose Explore the natural aromas of the Engadin on foot and on horseback. Fragrant Engadin Treats for the nose. ACTIVE Four Sails in the Wind Dancing with the Wind The story of a Dutch surfer who fell in love with the Engadin and decided to stay. Wind and Water Wonderful world of water sports. UTSCHELS Flying High The Upper Engadin is a dream for experienced and aspiring birdwatchers. On Land and Up High Spotting birds and other animals. GOLF SWING In It for the Long Drive Home of Golf in Switzerland The history of Switzerland’s oldest golf course. Place to Play Fun in the fresh air for all the family. A LT I T U D E T R A I N I N G Engadin Elite Intense Training in Thin Air People from all walks of life train together in the Engadin. Way Up High Training with a view. C U LT U R A Serpentine Cloud and Backwards Wind Where is Alba? Leta Semadeni’s poetic writing about the Maloja wind and love. Poetry of the Wind Literature and the fine arts in the Engadin. PINBOARD A gallery of ideas for captivating holidays in the Engadin, with more activities, restaurants, accommodation, and cultural attractions. Content

Photo: Filip Zuan

Lake Sils has the perfect conditions for sailing pretty much every day.

Photo: Filip Zuan

Rising mist on the Trais Fluors above Celerina.

Photo: Elias Vetter

The Maloja snake creeps along the mountain slopes and over the villages one morning.

Photo: Filip Zuan

Athletes will find the perfect trail for them in the Upper Engadin – whether they want to explore the lakes or head up high.

Fun in the Fresh Air

Glide above the Engadin Fancy a speedy morning or evening flight? Or maybe a leisurely glide over the lakes? Whether you’re looking to get the adrenaline pumping or chill out and relax, there’s a high-flying paragliding experience to suit you with Paragliding Engadin. Experienced paragliding pilots are happy to take passengers along with them on a cruise through the clouds. engadin.ch/sky Introduction

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Photo: Engadin Mountains

Wind and waves await

Magnificent mountain cable cars You can float through the air and up the mountains in a range of great gondolas in the Engadin …

Ready for bed?

CORVATSCH

Corvatsch, 3,303 m Start: Surlej

S-chanf – Pillows filled with Swiss stone pine chips and encased in a down cover from IN LAIN Holzmanufaktur promise sweet dreams and deep sleep thanks to the calming essential oil in the locally sourced wood. engadin.ch/inlain

Home of the golden eagle

S-chanf – Even though golden eagles had been more or less wiped out from the Alps by the start of the 20th century, the numbers have stabilised again. There are now six pairs living in the Swiss National Park. They have everything they need there, including plenty of prey and nesting sites. You have the best chance of spotting these incredible birds of prey if you set off on an expedition with a national park ranger. engadin.ch/national-park

DIA VO LEZ ZA

Diavolezza, 2,973 m Start: Bernina, Diavolezza

Photo: Schweizerischer Nationalpark / Hans Lozza

Piz Nair, 3,057 m Start: Corviglia Cool breeze Sils – We don’t get many heatwaves in the Engadin high valley region. But if the sun does get too much for you, you can always head to the mountain lakes for a refreshing dip. You could also set off on an adventure with Europe’s highest scheduled boat service. You’ll be grateful for the cool breeze in your hair as you cross Lake Sils on a warm summer’s day. engadin.ch/course-ship

FURTSCHELLAS

Furtschellas, 2,312 m Start: Sils

Made by the wind During the autumn months, larch needles fall into the water and are bundled together by the wind and waves. The result? Sils balls! You can pick these funny little things up when you’re out walking along Lake Sils. Or try the sweet treat version of them from Bäckerei Grond, which has bakeries in Sils, Silvaplana, and La Punt. engadin.ch/grond-bakery

Sleep where the air is thin Wondering which is the best Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) hut of all? That’ll be the Jenatschhütte, which is lovingly maintained and managed at 2,652 metres above sea level up in the wild but picturesque Val Bever. engadin.ch/jenatsch-hut

Introduction

Cloudy days

The weather in the Engadin is nowhere near as varied as the nature. Just remember that you can count on the sun to shine for over 300 days a year. But it still can’t hurt to know a thing or two about the weather when you’re up in the mountains.

More air, breeze, wind

Photo: Wolkenatlas aus “Meyers Grosses Konversations-Lexikon”, Band 20, Leipzig 1909

Dress for the wind If your clothes aren’t keeping the Maloja wind out, kit yourself out at Giovanoli Sport.

Cirrus Wispy ice clouds

Cirrostratus Transparent high clouds

Cirrocumulus Small fluffy clouds

Nimbostratus Rain clouds

Cumulus Fair-weather clouds

Cumulusnimbus Thunderstorm clouds

Top 5: summer bucket list

Shimmering air Mountains, skies, and shimmering air shine out of the scenes in Segantini’s paintings. Keep cool with cocktails With almost 120 bars to choose from locally, you’ll be sipping on a refreshing East Wind cocktail in no time.

is the highest speed on the Beaufort scale reached by the Maloja wind. That’s a strong breeze on the scale that goes all the way up to hurricane-force at 12.

Sweet smell in the air Head to Hotel Roseg Gletscher for the best dessert buffet around.

Open-air cinema Silvaplana – Ever since traffic was banned from the Plazza dal Güglia square a few years ago, it has become the perfect place for socialising at the heart of the village. Don’t miss the open-air cinema here in July. engadin.ch/cinema

Five things you simply must do if you’re in the Engadin during the summer: Go birdwatching against the wild and idyllic backdrop of the restored River Inn. Get out of breath on the Finnenbahn trail around Lej Alv. Marvel at the clouds, known as “Maloja snakes” that creep into the valley from Muottas Muragl. Go forest bathing surrounded by fragrant Swiss stone pines. Glide across the lake on a SUP with an extra push from the Maloja wind. Introduction

E N G A D I N Magazin S O M M E R / H E R B S T

Natüra “May my most faithful companion rest in peace. Hypochondria has gone to sleep. The fresh mountain air, bird song, and rose scent were all too much, so off he went.” F R O M “ T H E FA I T H F U L C O M P A N I O N” B Y A N A S TA S I U S GRÜN, AUSTRIAN POLITICIAN AND POET

Natüra

Follow Your Nose As you walk your way through the Engadin, you’ll be greeted by wafts of fabulous fragrances. While you wander along dew-kissed wildflower meadows, stroll in the shade of magnificent Swiss stone pines, or stop for a sweet treat made by a legendary local confectioner. We have four special scent experiences for adventurers with a keen nose. Text M A R T I N H O C H Photography F I L I P Z U A N

There is an incredible array of flora in the Fex Valley.

FURTSCHELLAS, SILS

Floral fragrance â 1/2 Day

♥ Enjoy a bite to eat at Restaurant Sonne in Fex.

On this route, the only way is up. All the way up to the Furtschellas middle station above Sils. The finest wild flower meadows the Upper Engadin has to offer are on the sun-soaked, east-facing slopes in the Fex Valley. As you stroll along the narrow path, your nose will be met with the enticing scents of the beautifully blooming gentian, lobelia, aconite, and edelweiss flowers. Did you know that there are around 2,500 types of plants growing

in the Engadin? This variety makes it one of the most fascinating regions in the Alps for plant lovers. The best way to breathe in the fragrance of the flowers is to get up close to them. Some smell bitter to repel pests, while others have a super-sweet scent that attracts bees and butterflies – and entices passers-by to take a sniff. Head out early in the morning, when there’s still dew on the meadow, to enjoy the floral scents at their strongest.

2,200 2,100

E N D: Sils Maria

Engadinerstübli, Hotel Seraina

2,300

Fex-Crasta Chapel

Hotel Sonne

Marmorè bench

START: Furtschellas middle station

R O U T E : F U RT S C H E L L A S – VAL F E X – S I L S

2,000 1 km

2 km

3 km

4 km

5 km

6 km

6.8 km

Natüra

M U O T TA S D A S C H L A R I G N A , C E L E R I N A

Pine perfume

â 1/2 Day

♥ Take a dip in Lej da Staz.

Right behind the train station in Pontresina, there’s a lovely sunlit wood just waiting to be explored. It’s like stepping into a whole new world as you leave behind the busy platforms and retreat into the tranquillity among the trees. And your nose is in for a treat, too. Terpenes, produced by trees with needles to ward off pests, have a distinctive smell. But they have more to offer than their enticing aroma – they’re said to have health benefits, too. When you breathe them in, your body produces more white blood cells, thereby boosting your immune system. That’s just one reason why the Japanese practice of forest bathing is also becoming increasingly popular here in Switzerland. The path winds leisurely through the shaded forest, yet you feel there’s a sense of purpose as you head up and up. It’s a bit like a pilgrimage in a way. You see, it’s not just the sweeping views from Muottas da Schlarigna and the refreshing dip in Lej da Staz that await on this route. You’ll also pass by an ancient Swiss stone pine just off the path. And you can’t help but show reverence for its thick trunk and gnarled branches. It’s believed to be around 1,000 to 1,400 years old. How lucky that it’s too high up for foresters to do anything about it – it was decided that it wouldn’t be worth all the effort. And now it’s one of the old trees that have special protection so that they can continue to bring joy.

E N D: Lej da Staz Alp dal Staz

2,400

Ancient Swiss stone pines

START : Pontresina

Muottas da Schlarigna

R O U T E : P O N T R E S I N A – M U O T TA S D A S C H L A R I G N A – L E J D A S TA Z

2,200 2,000 1,800 1 km

Natüra

2 km

3 km

4 km

5 km

6 km

7 km

7.5 km

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

The Swiss stone pine above Celerina is believed to be 1,000 to 1,400 years old. Natüra

Horses have a good sense of smell and use their noses to communicate. Natüra

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

ENGADIN RIVER RANCH, MADULAIN

Stable scent

â 1/2 Day

♥ Admire art at Stalla Madulain.

Close your eyes and try to conjure up the smell of horses. Most people can recreate that distinctive scent without too much effort. Perhaps that has something to do with the huge part horses have played in our lives for generations. You can ponder that as you wander along the River Inn on a guided ride with the Engadin River Ranch. Breathe in the smell of the hay in the freshly mown meadows.

Speaking of our sense of smell... Did you know that a horse’s nose is extremely sensitive? Horses can smell people’s fear and they use their noses to pick up on danger out in the wild. And they touch noses to communicate with one another. One thing to bear in mind is that horses can sniff out where the best herbs are growing. So don’t let them lead with their nose too much if you actually want to get anywhere.

Zuoz

Inn

1,800

Zuoz

1,900

Madulain

END: Madulain, River Ranch

START: Madulain, River Ranch

ROUTE: MADULAIN – S-CHANF – MADULAIN

1,700 1,600 2 km

4 km

6 km

8 km

10 km

11.2 km

Natüra

River Ranch horseback tours take you to the banks of the River Inn. Natüra

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Natüra

H OT E L AL BR IS, P O NT R E SI NA

Beautiful baking

â 1 Day

♥ Enjoy an original Engadin tart.

You’ll have barely stepped foot in the Val da Fain before this route takes you up to Fuorcla Pischa. As you concentrate on making your way up high one step at a time, you won’t be able to miss the woody juniper fragrance. If you stop for a good sniff, you’ll be able to make out a sweet scent, too. The sweet scent of the south wafting over the mountains from Valposchiavo? Or could it be coming from the Kochendörfer family bakery in Pontresina at the end of this route? Just the thought of it should be enough to keep you putting one foot in front of the other. After passing through a barren, lunar-like landscape, the hike leads down through lush green meadows to Alp Languard. Admire the magnificent view once more as you take a trip on the fabulously vintage chair lift. The Hotel and Restaurant Albris in Pontresina is the home of the original Engadin tarts – and it’ll be just a few paces away from you. Everyone will be busy at work in the Kochendörfer family bakery here. They’ll be skilfully layering almond and kirsch cream on a shortcrust pastry base with an edge made of puffed rice and pastry crumb. And a florentine on top for the finishing touch. Icing sugar will be dusted on in the shape of their signature letter K. They still use the original Engadin tart recipe created by Oscar Kochendörfer back in the 1930s. You can’t improve on perfection!

Bergrestaurant Alp Languard

2,600 2,400

E N D: Pontresina, Restaurant Albris

Lej Languard

Piz Albris

Muot Galapischa

START: Bernina Diavolezza car park 2,800

Fuorcla Pischa

R O U T E : VA L DA FA I N – A L P L A N G UA R D – P O N T R E S I N A

2,200 1 km

Natüra

2 km

3 km

4 km

5 km

6 km

7 km

8 km

9 km

10 km

10.7 km

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

The original Kochendörfer Engadin tart is a creamier take on the traditional Engadin nut tart. Natüra

Fragrant Engadin Treats for the nose

WILD ORCHID

This type of orchid has a strong citrus scent and likes wet feet. It thrives in moist meadows and fens, so it can often be found in protected alpine pastures. Natüra

G LO BEFLOWE R

These flowers are named after their round shape. You can spot their brightyellow petals in wet meadows and alpine pastures in May and June.

PA S Q U E F LOW E R

After flowering, attractive hairy seed heads appear. The flower is used as a homeopathic remedy to relieve headaches and treat cataracts.

DAP H N E ME ZE REUM

Daphne mezereum has many different faces. It has pink flowers and a strong fragrance in spring but turns bright red and bears berries in autumn.

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Taste and smell The Engadin is filled with so many different fragrances in the villages, up in the mountains, by the lakes, and in the forests. Some of them are not to be missed … 1

Explore the herb garden Pontresina – Everyone recognises the classic yellow packaging of Ricola cough drops, which have been soothing scratchy throats in Switzerland since 1940. The recipe might be a closely guarded secret, but the 13 Swiss mountain herbs used are common knowledge. And you can smell every single one of them in the Ricola herb garden, which is just a short walk from the centre of the village. We recommend visiting during the flowering period between May and September and following up with a walk in the Rosegtal. engadin.ch/ricola-herb-garden

Smell or stink?

Pontresina – The strength of a cheese’s smell is determined during the production and ripening stages. You can see the traditional way of making cheese for yourself at Schaukäserei Morteratsch. engadin.ch/alpine-cheese-dairy 2

Sniffing goats

Sils – Goats have a strong sense of smell. You can see just how picky these mischievous creatures are with their food if you go trekking with them. engadin.ch/goat-trekking

6.7

metres is the circumference of the old Swiss stone pine on Muottas da Schlarigna.

3 Mountain scent for you Bergell – The “Eau de Parfum Engiadina” produced by Bergell-based toiletries company Soglio captures the aromas of larches and golden sunshine in a bottle. engadin.ch/eau-de-parfum

Swiss flora app You can use the excellent Flora Helvetica app to identify any flowers you come across when you’re exploring the Engadin. And you don’t need us to tell you not to pick any of the beautiful wild flowers. Look but don’t touch!

Butterfly collection Bever – Visit the Upper Engadin Cultural Archives to discover the legendary butterfly collection amassed by the Biveroni family from Bever at the start of the 20th century.

flora-helvetica.ch

Natüra

Mmm … delicious!

Fragrant furniture Pontresina – The smell of Swiss stone pines reduces stress and helps you to relax until your worries and fears are forgotten. Could there be a better reason to browse the furniture and homewares made from locally sourced wood at Rominger Möbel?

Your nose is guaranteed a treat on these exquisite culinary experiences.

engadin.ch/rominger-furniture

E-bike ride with brunch

Celerina – Explore Alp Laret on an electric mountain bike at the crack of dawn. A delicious brunch and spectacular sunrise are waiting for you. engadin.ch/ebikebrunch

Woody whisky Silvaplana – The flavour of whisky can be described as sweet, fruity, floral, woody, smoky … and the list goes on. ORMA whisky, which is distilled at 3,303 metres above sea level near the Corvatsch mountain station, has hints of dried fruits, black tea, coffee, chocolate, and vanilla. engadin.ch/orma-whisky

Alpine coffee Zuoz – Cafè Badilatti has been creating coffee aromas in the Engadin high valley region for four generations. The high-up location of the roastery more than makes up for the additional costs of transporting coffee beans to the area. The boiling point is lower at 1,800 metres above sea level, so the roasting process is slower. And that only means good things for the flavour of the coffee. engadin.ch/cafebadilatti

Online trail map

Full steam ahead The smell of smoke is in the air when the historical steam train dating back to the early days of the Rhaetian Railway chugs from village to village. A trip in the open carriages is a must for train enthusiasts of all ages. Check the times and prices here:

The hiking trails in the Engadin cover 580 kilometres between them. And every single kilometre is a treat for all the senses – not just the nose. engadin.ch/hiking-map

Gin, glorious gin

Pontresina – Trusted classics and fun new twists await at the gin tasting experience at the Hotel Saratz bar. engadin.ch/gin-tasting

Tasty tour

Bever – This foodie tour takes you to four delightful restaurants in the village, with walks to help you digest all the culinary treats in between. engadin.ch/culinary-bever

Siam Wind St. Moritz – Diners at the Thai restaurant at Hotel Laudinella are in for a delicious meal packed with authentic and exotic flavours. engadin.ch/siamwind

engadin.ch/steam-rides

Natüra

Active “We cannot change the direction of the wind, but we can adjust our sails.” AR ISTOTL E (384 – 322 BCE )

Four Sails in the Wind Water sports are exhilarating. Take to the vast lakes in the Engadin for a thrill on the cool, crisp water and experience the feeling of taming the wind with your bare hands.

Sailing The first depiction of a sailing vessel appeared on an Ancient Egyptian urn dating back to 5000 BCE. But it wasn’t until the 18th century that sailing became a sport as well as a means of transport in England and the Netherlands. With a thermal updraft you could set your watch by in the area, it comes as no surprise that St. Moritz Sailing Club (est. 1941) is one of the oldest in Switzerland. And yet, not many people realised just how perfect the lakes in the Upper Engadin are for sailing for a long while. But now the secret’s out, Lake St. Moritz is a popular venue for international regattas.

Active

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Windsurfing Once the first windsurfer had hit the waves in Santa Monica on the coast of California in 1967, the sport quickly became all the rage. It’s easier to learn how to windsurf on a lake because you don’t have the sea’s waves to contend with.

Kitesurfing Kitesurfing involves standing on a board and being pulled along by a kite attached to your body with a leash system. Although kite surfing equipment was first designed back in the 1980s, it took a good decade for the sport to take off. Andrea Lüthi, a paraglider from Sils, is one of the global pioneers behind the sport.

Wingsurfing/Wing foiling In this blend of windsurfing and kitesurfing, surfers stand on a board, hold onto the wing with two handles and catch the wind. Attempts with heavy and cumbersome sails in the 1980s were far from a success. The lightweight, inflatable wing wasn’t invented until 2015, but the sport has been growing in popularity ever since – as a trip to Lake Silvaplana will quickly reveal.

Active

Fly through the sky when kitesurfing on Lake Silvaplana.

Active

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Dancing with the Wind Acting on a tip from another surfer, Solo Solinski left his mountainless country behind and headed for the Engadin. And it didn’t take long for the Dutch surfer to fall for the Maloja wind. Text F E L I X P A L Photography F I L I P Z U A N

henever Solo Solinski talks about the Maloja wind, you can hear the awe and respect in his voice. He talks about that wind as if it were a person he is deeply fond of. “The Maloja wind is completely unpredictable.” It can be violent and angry at times. But then gentle and almost still. It has even been known to disappear altogether from the Engadin and leave Lake Silvaplana behind. Solinski, whose real name is Martyn Van Soolingen, is not just anybody waxing lyrical about the wind. No, he is a living legend when it comes to sports involving the wind and water. The 55-year-old was born and raised in the Netherlands. A country that makes up for its lack of mountains with its coastline – and wind. You could say that windsurfing was in his genes. As a little boy, he learnt how to handle a board and sail. He would often travel to the Dutch Zeeland coast with his parents and it didn’t take him long to become a skilled windsurfer. Active

“The Engadin is a place where you can ski and surf – sometimes even on the same day.” SO LO SO LI NSKI

Final destination: the Engadin There came a time when he started to look beyond the Netherlands. He wanted to head somewhere warmer. Somewhere with palm trees. He spent years chasing the wind and waves. In Texas, the Dominican Republic, Mexico, Australia. He met so many people along the way. Including people who lived in the mountains and turned to their second passion, skiing, during the winter months. But they surfed in summer. They told him about the Engadin. A place where you could ski and surf – sometimes even on the same day. Solinski had to see it for himself. And so in 1993, he travelled to unknown territory. To the mountains and Lake Silvaplana. Love at first sight To start with, he was amazed at the sheer beauty of nature. The plateau, the mountains, and, of course, the lakes. That initial amazement was followed by surprise. He hadn’t been expecting the windsurfing scene to be so vibrant. Then came his first encounter with the Maloja wind. And he fell in love just like that. The rest is history – Solinski has been surfing on Lake Silvaplana almost every day since. But he doesn’t just stop at windsurfing. No, he gives anything a go, as long as it involves the wind and water. He’s focusing a lot on wing foiling right now. You really need to harness the power of the wind and water to get the hang of this sport. And Solinski is one of the best at doing exactly that. He brings his special blend of strength and stamina with an undeniable Active

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Solo Solinski is a surfer who feels more at home in the Upper Engadin than in California. Active

42 Solo recently discovered the relatively new sport of wing foiling.

Active

E N G A D I N Magazin S O M M E R / H E R B S T

Active

Solo Solinski in one of his favourite spots at Lake Silvaplana: “I belong right here in the Engadin.” Active

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

ease and elegance. Plus a whole lot of fun. You get a feel for his positive vibes even as you watch him hovering above the water from the other side of the lake. His positivity is infectious. Nobody would ever have predicted that this bold and brilliant surfer would end up in the Alps. Who wouldn’t have put good money on him riding the waves in California? He teaches skiing and snowboarding in the winter and works on the campsite in Silvaplana during the summer months. The Engadin isn’t a secret spot reserved for windsurfers in the know anymore. It’s a hub for the sport these days, providing the location for one of the most famous water sports events in the world every summer – Engadinwind in Silvaplana. Almost all the biggest names have been here now. Robby Naish, the winner of 24 World Championship Windsurfing titles, has even surfed on Lake Silvaplana. Solinski lives on the campsite in Silvaplana. He takes care of pretty much anything that needs doing there. He’s one of the first people to be up and about in the morning. That gives him plenty of time to head to the lake later in the day. He loves living on the campsite. The relaxed and laid-back lifestyle suits him. Surfers tend to share their positive energy with the people around them. The landscape helps with that, too. And Solinski, of course. Everyone knows him around here. He’s the Dutchman who always has a smile on his face. Who always has his thumbs up. Who spreads his enthusiasm and greets everyone with the shaka sign. Some evenings, Solinski sits on a rocky ledge by the lake, with the wind in his hair and on his face. He seems at peace with himself and at one with the world around him. He gazes up at the mountains and then stares at the lake. “I belong right here in the Engadin.” Active

Wind and Water Wonderful world of water sports

Silvaplana – The first Engadinwind surfing marathon took place on Lake Silvaplana in 1977. And now the event is one of the longest-running windsurfing regattas in the world. The world’s elite windsurfers, Active

kitesurfers, and wing foilers will be heading to the Upper Engadin again this year between 20 and 25 August 2024. The colourful display of sails on the water is not to be missed. engiadinwind.ch E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Photo: Roger Grütter

Engadinwind

Beach Club Sils – Water sports are hungry and thirsty work! Luckily, the beach club here has pizza, pasta, grills, and salads on the menu. And if you still have some energy to burn off, you can follow up your meal with a game of beach volleyball or another stint at the lake. engadin.ch/beachclub

Let’s go surfing Silvaplana/Sils – Silvaplana Windsurfing School has got it sussed. They offer windsurfing, kitesurfing, and wing foiling lessons and rental equipment in two different spots on Lake Silvaplana based on the wind conditions. Beginners and families should head to Sils with its offshore wind, while anyone with more advanced skills can tackle the onshore wind in Silvaplana. engadin.ch/windsurfing-silvaplana

PappaLoù

Mountain Surf Shop Silvaplana – Like so many sports, surfing has its own sense of style. You can get your hands on all the surf merch you need as well as any equipment you’re missing at the Silvaplana Windsurfing School’s own shop. engadin.ch/surf-shops

Becalmed? Never fear: there’s also a water sport that involves balancing on a board without the wind... stand-up paddleboarding. Without the wind and waves to worry about, you can enjoy a calm and relaxing time on the water. engadin.ch/stand-up-paddling

Silvaplana – This lovely lakeside café and restaurant right by the campsite at Silvaplana promises a warm welcome every time. There’s something on the menu for everyone – from breakfast to dessert. The dishes are prepared using sustainably sourced produce that comes from the local area wherever possible. engadin.ch/pappalou

Better balance on your board

Roll out your yoga mat and breathe in that fresh air. Lots of local yoga studios run outdoor sessions set against a stunning backdrop in the summer. engadin.ch/yoga-classes

Active

Engadin sunshine and «inspiraziun» at your fingertips. Stay up-to-date with the Engadin Newsletter.

www.engadin.ch/newsletter

Engadin. What mountains, what lakes, what light.

Subscribe now! www.engadin.ch/newsletter

On and under the water Paddling, rowing, swimming, splashing... the list of activities you can try out on, in, and around the lakes in the Upper Engadin is seemingly endless. How about two more examples?

Night air I Silvaplana – Lake Silvaplana and its surfing hotspots are just a stone’s throw away from Conrad’s Mountain Lodge. Snuggle up in one of the minimalist modern rooms all in wood or head to the spa or bar to warm up after a day of wind and waves. engadin.ch/mountainlodge

Night air II Maloja – Immerse yourself in nature at the campsite in Maloja. Not far from Lake Sils, it’s the perfect place for a peaceful retreat with a spectacular view of the mountains. And the Tom Sailor sailing school is located on site too. engadin.ch/maloja-camping

Flying lines

I am sailing You don’t ever have to worry about missing out on your sailing session or boat booking in the Upper Engadin. The Maloja wind is so reliable that every day’s a sailing day! It’s no wonder that the region has enjoyed such a long history of water sports. You can sail on all three of the huge lakes, but Lake Sils promises the most perfect conditions of all. There are multiple sailing schools offering lessons and sessions, boat rentals, and trips. engadin.ch/sailing

17°

Lake Silvaplana barely reaches 17°C at the height of summer.

An artificial fly dancing on or under the water at the end of your line is the best hope you have of achieving the catch of the day. The rhythmic swing of the rod is enough to send you into a meditative state when you’re fishing. Add the spectacular natural landscape surrounding the mountain lakes for rest and relaxation guaranteed. engadin.ch/fishing

Breathing underwater

Diving into a cold mountain lake certainly isn’t everyone’s idea of fun. Especially when you know there are no colourful shoals of fish or impressive shipwrecks waiting for you beneath the surface. And yet the St. Moritz Diving Club is one of the oldest in the world. It must be all the diving spots around the lakes of all sizes enticing experienced divers with their promise of exciting dives like no other. engadin.ch/water

Time to set sail! St. Moritz – St. Moritz Sailing Club holds several regattas and competitions every summer, including the Swiss Championships in Radio Sailing from 6 to 8 July 2024. engadin.ch/sailing-events

Active

Photo: michaklootwijk

Utschels “In order to see birds, it is necessary to become a part of the silence.” R O B E R T W I L S O N LY N D ( 1 8 7 9 – 1 9 4 9 ) IRISH JOURNALIST AND WRITER

1 Lesser redpoll Has bright streaks of red on the head and breast. Travels and lives in flocks.

Utschels

2 Northern wheatear Similar to the whinchat. Has a black “T” shape on its tail that’s visible in flight.

3 Common rock thrush Colourful and difficult to spot, making every sighting an exciting occasion.

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Flying High Jürg Wirth didn’t discover his passion for bird watching until after he had moved to the Engadin. This is the story of a man who had always been dubious about birding until he gave it a go himself. Text J Ü R G W I R T H Illustrations J A S M I N H U B E R

’m only ever about 500 paces or a couple of minutes away from escaping to a different world. The bird world, that is. A wonderful world filled with bird song, where I stalk and watch and listen. And the reason I can get there so quickly is that I live in the Engadin. The bird world is waiting for me right on my doorstep, with 110 species or so fluttering around the valley. That’s an incredible number compared to the 40 or 50 you find in Central Switzerland. The Ochsenbrücke bridge between Samedan and Celerina is a good place to start. So is the area around Isla and Gravatscha – downstream of the River Inn. A pair of binoculars is enough to get started – and you need to stay alert and know a thing or two about our feathered friends. I’ve been retreating into the bird world regularly for about seven years now. But birds have always fascinated me. There were lots of different types of birds around my house when I was growing up in Ostaargau. Hawfinches with their powerful beak and bullfinches with their bright-red breast and bull-headed appearance. A spotted flycatcher even landed on our balcony once. We used to identify the Utschels

birds after we’d seen them. And my interest in birds remained hidden deep inside me for a long time. The few birdwatching types (or “birders” as they call themselves) I had come across were far from sexy. I didn’t fancy myself in the uniform of functional clothing in a dull shade of beige or olive green with a pair of binoculars around my neck. Plus the obligatory glasses, beard, and know-it-all look. The first time When I moved to the Engadin, birds were back on my radar. Especially swallows, because they’re so important up here. The migratory birds have come to be symbolic of the many Engadin locals who had to migrate on economic grounds up until the early 20th century. Suffering from homesickness, they would return for the summer months and then move away again in the autumn. Gradually, my initial interest expanded to include other types of birds too. So I ended up taking a course in field ornithology. When I went on my first birdwatching trip, I was still a bit embarrassed by my binoculars. And the fact that I’d apparently become the sort of person that stalks birds. I tried my best to hide my binoculars under my coat whenever I wasn’t using them. My initial embarrassment soon faded and was replaced with enthusiasm. It’s incredible how addictive birdwatching is! As long as you actually have some birds to watch, of course. To start with, you can’t see the wood for the trees. When it comes to birds, it’s the leaves that have a habit of getting in the way. I’d be looking into a tree and hearing all kinds of birds chirping and tweeting and even singing. But I couldn’t see a single one of them. There are two ways of getting round this... either go birdwatching when there are no leaves on the trees or learn how to identify bird songs and calls. Trust me when I say that the first option is by far the easier of the two! In the Engadin, you have the option of joining special guided birdwatching walks. Utschels

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

4 Water pipit Greyishbrown in colour. Likely to fly over you when you’re out on a mountain hike.

5 Ring ouzel Often referred to as a mountain blackbird. Has a distinctive white crescentshaped marking on its neck.

6 Common linnet Has a bright-red breast and doesn’t need to migrate for winter.

Utschels

7 Red-backed shrike Powerful bird with a black eye-mask marking. Has a unique way of impaling its prey (everything from insects to mice) on thorns to store for later.

Utschels

8 Alpine accentor Slightly larger than a sparrow with subtle brown, white, and black markings. Likely to be seen on local bird feeders during the winter months.

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

9 Rock bunting Has intricate markings, especially on the face. Can be hard to spot.

10 Skylark Performs a spectacular song flight with a distinctive song. Like a sparrow and then some.

11 Whinchat Dainty perching bird that pounces on its prey.

Utschels

Dawn Chorus The bird world performs a sensational concert for early birds every morning. But not all our feathered friends start singing at exactly the same time.

Befo

n re su

ris e

After

su nr

ise

Utschels

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Beat the intro with birds Learning how to identify bird songs and calls is fun, though. It reminds me of “Beat the intro” – that music game where you have to guess what song is playing as quickly as possible. There are some birds you can identify right away, while others just seem to sound like generic background noise. The chaffinch, for example, trills in a series of descending notes before ending in a flourish. But tits have a much more repetitive song. The song flight of the tree pipit is absolutely fascinating. These birds spiral up from the treetops and then parachute through the air as they whistle their song. Nothing like the spotted woodpecker, which makes a single noise that sounds just like a toy rubber duck being squeezed. As you can imagine, there are plenty of apps that can help you identify bird calls these days. Water birds for beginners It goes without saying that keen birders are proud of their bird song identification skills – and their ability to tell apart birds based on their features and markings. And that brings us back to the watching part of birdwatching. Birds are hard to spot when they’re hiding behind the leaves on a tree or in a bush. But it’s actually pretty tricky to identify them the rest of the time, too, as they’re small and quick. That doesn’t apply to water birds, though, which makes them an ideal starting point for beginners to birdwatching. And the good news is that there are many places with the perfect habitat for them in the Engadin. Examples include the area around the Ochsenbrücke bridge, Lej da Gravatscha lake, Val Roseg, and along the restored River Inn near Bever and below Samedan. Going birdwatching often will help sharpen your senses. Over time, you’ll start to feel a bit like a hunter, spotting the slightest movement out of the corner of your eye and quickly pointing your binoculars in just the right direction. Utschels

A flash of red, black, and white Birdwatching trains you to pay careful attention and helps you practise mindfulness. The stresses of everyday life are forgotten in minutes. Your mind is calm, clear, and fully focused on your first find. What’s that? A black redstart. That’s pretty standard because it’s the most widespread bird in Switzerland, while the chaffinch is the most common. Black redstarts are easy to spot with their bobbing body, red tail, and dark head. Not exactly anything to show off about in birdwatching circles. But the truth is that birdwatchers are delighted with every single bird they set eyes on – even more so if they spot a rarer species. Like that over there on the wall of that house. A distinctive movement. A flash of red, black, and white. That’s enough to make your heart skip a beat. It’s a wallcreeper! You might also hear them referred to as a “hoopoe of the rock face”. A fine specimen. But there are so many other birds to spot here in the Engadin. How about a rock bunting? A ring ouzel, a wood grouse, or a black grouse? Like I mentioned before, there are some 110 species here altogether. Birdwatching is always an enjoyable activity here – even if you’re not stalking a bird for a moment. It’s so nice just to be out and about in the Engadin and learning a thing or two about the incredible bird world out there. You know, I feel even closer to that world during the winter months. That’s when I feed the birds on my balcony and quietly watch them from my table inside. Rock buntings, alpine accentors, nuthatches, white-winged snowfinches, and the list goes on.

i Vogelschutz Engadin runs regular field ornithology courses and trips. They also list recent sightings on their website. vogelschutz-engadin.ch Utschels

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

12 Wallcreeper Loves climbing up, down, and along walls and rock faces. Shows off its red wings with white and black tips in flight. Brings joy to birdwatchers whenever they spot one.

Utschels

On Land and Up High Spotting birds and other animals

Zuoz

S-chanf

Madulain La Punt Chamues-ch

Bever Samedan

Celerina St. Moritz St. Moritzersee

Pontresina

Champfèr

Silvaplana

Surlej Lej da Silvaplana

Sils

Lej da Segl

Maloja

Birdwatching in the Upper Engadin: 1 Maloja: The glacial mills make for an interesting birdwatching setting. You can spot migratory birds heading south on the Maloja Pass in autumn.

Utschels

2 Sils: Whinchats and skylarks breed in a protected meadow between Sils and Lake Silvaplana. There’s a boardwalk through the little bird reserve.

3 Samedan: The area around Lej da Gravatscha is home to an unbelievable number of bird species. More birds breed there than anywhere else in Switzerland.

4 Bever: Sandpipers and little ringed plovers breed in protected areas along the restored River Inn. You can also spot whinchats, redbacked shrikes, and wrynecks.

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

What other wildlife can you spot?

Birdwatching tips and tricks

Ibex Pontresina – You can spot large numbers of ibex sunning themselves on the outskirts of the village above Pontresina in spring.

When you’re birdwatching, you need to tread lightly and make sure you take your binoculars with you. But what else do you need to know?

Cheeping in the museum Marmots Val Trupchun – Head up to the plateau of Alp Trupchun for a good chance of seeing marmots between May and September.

Red deer Pontresina – You can hear the deer belling in Val Roseg and Val Trupchun in September. It’s not uncommon for them to roar so much that they go hoarse.

Pontresina – The extensive collection of stuffed native birds prepared by hotelier Gian Saratz I (1821–1900) is now part of the permanent exhibition at the Alpine Museum. The birds are in such natural positions that you would expect to see out in nature that it’s easy to believe they’re still alive. Some 150 years after they were prepared, they’re still impressing experts and fascinating museum visitors. The Alpine Museum also has a bird song collection. engadin.ch/museumalpin

1 Don’t stick to one spot You’re more likely to achieve birdwatching success if you keep trying out different locations. 2

Seize the day

Those in the know say that birdwatching is best early in the morning. 3 Stay away from nests If you come across a nest, be sure to keep your distance. You’ll know you’ve gone too close when birds are visibly agitated or start making alarm calls. 4 Keep your beak shut Never mimic bird songs and calls.

Adders Bever – Adders are become more common along the banks of the River Inn following its restoration. Watch out if you’re out and about with children and dogs, because these snakes are venomous.

Bird app You’ll have no problem identifying birds native to Switzerland with the free Birdlife Schweiz app by your side. The annual subscription also offers you an automatic bird song identification feature. birdlife.ch

5 Turn the flash off Whatever the weather, make sure your flash isn’t on when you’re taking photos. 6 Camouflage gear not required But stay away from bright colours that could scare off birds.

Corvatsch – home of the raven

“Corvatsch” is the Romansh word for “raven”. The mighty mountain has the highest mountain station in the canton of Grisons at over 3,000 metres above sea level. You feel like you can almost touch the sky as you admire the spectacular panoramic view from the top of the mountain. It’s hard not to wish you had wings. engadin.ch/corvatsch3303

Utschels

Can we help?

newrada.com

Masseinlagen

High in the sky S-chanf – Here’s one safe way to look down on the world with a bird’s-eye view without having to fly through the sky. The ParcAlpin high-rope park near the car park in Prasüras – right by the entrance to the national park – has six courses at varying degrees of difficulty so that children and adults alike can have fun up high in the sky. engadin.ch/rope-parc-alpin

La Punt nature trail La Punt – Explore the fabulous flora and fauna of the Engadin on the nature trail between La Punt and Madulain. How many species of plant, tree, and shrub can you spot? Catch your breath as you stop to admire the 10 wooden statues carved out of local tree trunks.

Back to nature Bever – The revitalised river landscape of the Inn near Bever feels a bit like Canada. There used to be a boring canal here, but now a lively river once more bubbles between gravel and sand banks and through floodplain forests over a stretch of more than two kilometres. Many species of flora and fauna, including some endangered ones, have found a new home here since September 2020, with otters and beavers having returned.

112

Over 112 species of bird call the Engadin home.

engadin.ch/forest-trail

Sleeping with the swallows Champfèr – “Randolins” is the Romansh word for “swallow” and guests at the family-friendly hotel with the same name can settle down in their very own nest for the night. There’s plenty of space all round, with a playground, games room, children’s menu, and plenty of inspiration for days out on offer. randolins-familienresort.ch

Bird’s nest experience

Samedan – On the sun-soaked slope above Samedan, the La Senda nature trail takes you past no end of stations where you can learn all about biodiversity and the natural world around you. You won’t want to miss the chance to climb into a bird’s nest at a height of nine metres. engadin.ch/lasenda

Utschels

Golf Swing “If you wish to hide your character, do not play golf.”

Photo: Cyrus Saedi

PERCY BOMMER, FORMER PROFESSIONAL GOLFER (1885 – 1949)

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

XXXXXXXX

Bild: Cyrus Sädi

In It for the Long Drive

Professional golfer Ilija Djurdjevic, Engadine Golf Club coach and European Long Drive champion.

Thin air: When the Engadine Golf Club was established over 130 years ago, next to nobody had any idea about the special spin the Engadin air would give the sport. But science has long since provided an explanation for why those little white balls travel up to 15% further at an

Golf Swing

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

altitude of 1,800 metres than they do in the lowlands. It’s all about the low air pressure. You can see this effect more clearly than ever when a golf ball has a high initial velocity. Using a club to hit a ball as far as possible through the air? Now, that sounds like a fun challenge. It’s no wonder that the concept sparked a brand-new discipline of golf back in the 1970s: long drive. Far, farther, farthest: Engadine Golf Club coach Ilija Djurdjevic realised he had a talent for hitting golf balls way into the distance when he was practising his swing at a park near Barcelona as a child. He entered his first European long drive tournament in 2015 and finished up in fifth place: “That first result motivated me to immerse myself in the world of long drive.” Four years later, Ilija was crowned European Long Drive champion. Once, he smashed the golf ball so hard that it covered an impressive 440 metres. That’s his official record. Back to the roots: Ilija Djurdjevic’s passion doesn’t just stop at extreme swings. He recently discovered his fascination with the game of golf as it was in the early days of the Engadine Golf Club. He played with clubs made from hickory wood for the first time a year ago and he’s been training with them regularly ever since. The historical World Hickory Open Championship in Scotland would be right up his street. And how perfect would that be? The oldest golf course in Switzerland as home to the European Long Drive champion and World Hickory Open champion.

Golf Swing

Golf was described as a sport that “could also be enjoyed by women” when the golf club opened in St. Moritz. Golf Swing

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Home of Golf in Switzerland The oldest golf course in Switzerland is nestled among 700-year-old larches in Samedan, on the alluvial land surrounding the Flaz river. Golf and the Engadin – that’s a match made in heaven. Text S T E P H A N I E E L M E R Photographs K U LT U R A R C H I V O B E R E N G A D I N

ickey Mouse was playing at the Palü cinema on 10 August 1937. The cinema had been rented out especially for the showing. It was filled with children – most of them from extremely poor families. The screening was a gift from a lady who had travelled to the Engadin to play golf, one Mrs Philippson, to her caddies. Many of the local boys and girls worked as caddies back then, carrying guests’ golf bags across the course and earning themselves a fair bit of pocket money for their trouble. Local artist Giovanni Segantini used to be a caddie, as did Alberto Giacometti. When Mickey Mouse skied across the screen, the kids burst into a round of applause. Or so the story goes according to the book published by the Engadine Golf Club in 1993 to mark its centenary. You see, the Engadin has a long history of golf. But this is not the story with two sides you might well expect. The elite world of the noble sport clashing with the charming but archaic world up in the Golf Swing

mountains. The rich golfers hiring the poor local children. No, this is the story of a sport and a mountain region that thrive together, with one shaping the other. “Golf was never an elite sport in the Engadin. It was a sport for the people,” said Carl Chasper Lüthi, reflecting on the past on the clubhouse terrace. He was the operations manager at the golf course for 20 years and he can still often be found playing a round there. You can hear cries of “Ciao Chasper” from every corner of the course when he’s around. He never had any golf lessons himself. But he was a caddie as a kid and he spent just as long watching the grown-ups send the balls flying through the air as he did carrying their bags around for them. “How about bringing golf to the Engadin?” The golf club’s story started with a journey. Conradin von Flugi, one of the region’s first hotel pioneers, travelled to England in 1889 to consider the options for opening a golf course in the Engadin. The idea was backed by Thomas Fanconi and Caspar Badrutt, two early hoteliers who were both convinced that the Engadin high valley region had the makings of a desirable destination now that tourism was on the rise. One year later, someone wrote to the editor of the St. Moritz Post to suggest bringing golf to the Engadin. They signed off their letter as “a golfer”. There was an announcement in that same newspaper a few months after that: “We’re happy to announce that a project suggested in this newspaper last year is going ahead.” St. Moritz would be welcoming a golf course – described as “a challenging nine-hole course with exciting hazards” in the article at the time – as soon as the funds were available. The author was convinced that the golf course would become a new attraction in the Engadin and specifically mentioned that the sport could be enjoyed by women too. Golf Swing

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Local boys and girls were always keen to snap up part-time jobs as caddies. Golf Swing

74 The golf course in Samedan wasn’t the first to open in the Engadin but it’s the oldest one that’s still going strong.

Golf Swing

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Golf Swing

Golf through history:

Alpine golf

Golf was actually in the Engadin’s DNA much earlier – albeit indirectly. “Mezza” was a sport mentioned by a chronicler back in the 16th century that would go on to be called “Alpine golf in Grisons” in a list of living traditions in Switzerland. It was played with a simple wooden club created by inserting a flexible handle measuring at least 70 centimetres into a piece of hard wood. The best handles were apparently made from the

Golf Swing

wayfaring tree, so Mezza players in the Upper Engadin – all men – would source the special wood from Domleschg. The aim of the game was to get a wooden ball through the air and into the target area in as few strokes as possible. Safety was an issue caused by an occasional lack of accuracy, so people were banned from playing too close to some villages. lebendige-traditionen.ch

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Blowing in the Maloja wind In the beginning, the annual membership fee was CHF 25 and a day pass would have set you back CHF 1. Two years later, in 1893, the Engadine Golf Club was founded, nine years before the Swiss national association for the sport. That same year, a huge 18-hole golf course opened in Samedan, nestled among majestic, centuries-old larches on the alluvial land surrounding the Flaz river. Those larches are just as much a part of the golf course in Samedan as the Maloja wind, which blows golf balls in all directions come midday. A golf course for everyone When the course was ready for golf in 1893, the Samedan local authority allowed the Engadine Golf Club to use the land. The only condition was that the prices had to be affordable enough for the locals to play. The vision was a golf course that everyone could enjoy. It says a lot that cows could sometimes even be found grazing on the course until way into the 1980s. Not a problem, except the cow pats had to be cleared up every day to avoid ruining the grass. A picture of contrasts paints itself. The Engadin and the rest of the world.Theguestsandthelocals.OutonthecoursetogetheragainstaSegantinistyle backdrop. Enjoying a spot of afternoon tea in the clubhouse. Fairness and community Back in the here and now, Carl Chasper Lüthi describes golf as “a sociable sport”. Built on a sense of fairness and community. “Is there any other sport that allows complete beginners and seasoned pros to play happily together?” He has lost count of all the people he has shared the course with over the years – “people I would never have met otherwise. It was always so exciting.” Sometimes, friendships even blossomed: “You really get to know people when you play 18 holes with them.” Golf Swing

Place to Play

Fun in the fresh air for all the family

Golf is in the air Samedan/Zuoz – The Engadine Golf Club has two courses – one in Samedan and the other in Zuoz-Madulain – promising plenty of variety to keep golfers of all abilities happy. The course in Samedan is open and Golf Swing

flat with plenty of water hazards and wind to keep golfers on their toes. Meanwhile, the more Alpine landscape of the Zuoz-Madulain course calls for a more strategic style of golf. engadin-golf.ch

The golf course at Hotel Kulm in St. Moritz is another popular choice with its short distances and hilly terrain.

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Mini golf Fans of the miniature version of the sport won’t feel left out in the Upper Engadin either. engadin.ch/miniature-golf

Golf green dreams Sils – Isn’t this the dream? A high-end hotel with historical charm, a modern spa area, three restaurants... and its own little golf course. Sure, it only has four holes, but it’s right on the hotel’s doorstep and hotel guests can play for free. The newly designed golf course at Parkhotel Margna is the perfect place for newbies to practise their swing. And yet it’s still challenging enough to entice more experienced golfers, with the long distances to the green (81 to 159 metres) and cleverly positioned hazards requiring some serious skill. engadin.ch/golfing

1,250 members make the Engadine Golf Club one of the largest in Switzerland.

Flying saucers Samedan – Disc golf involves throwing something a bit like a frisbee towards a series of metal baskets along a course. A fun activity to keep the whole family entertained. engadin.ch/discgolf

1 Hotel Saratz Pontresina – The biggest hotel park in the Engadin is home to nine tricky mini golf holes. And that’s just the start of the outdoor activities on offer there.

Waldhaus Sils

Sils – This 18-hole course is right at the heart of a lush larch forest and just next door to a gorgeous garden terrace with its own children’s playground. 3 St. Moritz Bad St. Moritz – Following a full revamp in 2023, this mini golf course is back and ready to welcome a steady stream of hard-hitters. There’s also a bocce court and a giant outdoor chess board.

Next generation of golfers

The Engadine Golf Club runs two-day taster courses and camps for children at its Zuoz-Madulain course in July and August. Professional golfers teach them the basic skills and the tricks of the trade with a focus on fun. engadin.ch/golfing

Golf Swing

Golf made easy. 100% Carbon. 100% Swiss Made. Don’t believe us? Try us.

Rethink Golf

Types of clubs You need to select your golf club carefully depending on the distance you want your golf ball to cover and if you want it to fly through the air or roll across the ground.

Do you speak golf? In the world of golf, you don’t push your baby around in a “buggy”. You don’t hide in a “bunker”. And you certainly don’t burn your tongue on a “tee”. Bit confusing? Time to learn the lingo! Buggy – a motorised golf cart that transports two players across the course. Bunker – an obstacle formed by a dip in the ground filled with sand with the added challenge of golfers not being allowed to touch the sand with their club before teeing off. Driving range – a place where golfers can practise their swing. Green – the area of grass surrounding a hole.

Woods

Hickory history Samedan/Zuoz – Golf clubs were made from pliable hickory wood until the 1920s. This wood is so durable that some old clubs found up in the attic at the turn of the millennium were still in good working order almost a century after their creation. A couple of keen golfers decided to take them out for a spin. And that was the start of a new yet old sport – hickory golf. The Engadine Golf Club now also hosts an annual tournament.

Woods are the clubs of choice for the longest shots. Drivers fall under this category.

Irons

If you’re facing a medium shot, take hold of an iron.

Handicap – a numerical measure of a player’s ability calculated as the number of strokes played over what is considered the average number of strokes (the par) for the course. Par – the average number of strokes that a proficient (zero handicap) golfer needs to complete a hole. Tee – a small wooden or plastic stand pushed into the ground to hold the golf ball while you tee off.

All the essentials Zuoz – Trousers too tight? Shoes rubbing against your big toe? Pick up all your golfing essentials from Willy Sport – either in the main shop in Zuoz or the golf outlet at the golf course in Zuoz. willy-sport.ch

Wedges

A wedge is ideal for shorter shots if you don’t want the ball to roll.

Engadine Amateur Championship Samedan – The Engadine Golf Club has been organizing an amateur golf tournament since 1893. The 2024 edition will take place from 27 to 30 June. engadin.ch/golf

Putters

For the shortest shots, get the ball rolling with a putter. Golf Swing

E N G A D I N Magazin S O M M E R / H E R B S T

Altitude Training “It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves.” S I R E D M U N D H I L L A R Y, O N E O F T H E F I R S T P E R S O N S TO RE ACH T H E SUM MIT O F M O U NT EVE RE ST

Altitude Training

Engadin Elite

High-level training on the Finnenbahn trail around Lej Alv.

Altitude Training

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

There were serious health concerns ahead of the 1968 Olympic Games in Mexico City. It was the first time in Olympic history that questions had to be asked about how high altitude could affect performance and what athletes could do to acclimatise. You see, the stadium in Mexico City is 2,240 metres above sea level. In response to the concerns, specialist sports physicians all around the world conducted in-depth research into altitude in the years leading up to the 1968 Olympics. And that’s how altitude training first came about – as a critical part of the strategy athletes followed to prepare for the Games. It’s no coincidence, then, that the first facilities started to be set up for an altitude training centre in St. Moritz in 1967. The “High Altitude Training Base” has been steadily developed and expanded since then, evolving to become a non-negotiable on the training plans of international elite athletes. Athletes mostly travel to the altitude training centre in the Upper Engadin before major sporting events, such as the “Weltklasse Zürich”, European and world championships, and, of course, the Olympic Games. There’s something special about watching top athletes training around St. Moritz, by the lakes, and on the mountain during the summer months. Just imagine the incredible feeling of going on to watch those very athletes break records at Letzigrund Stadium in Zurich or perform at elite level at the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris – achievements hopefully driven in part by their altitude training in the Engadin.

Altitude Training

Intense Training in Thin Air An interview with Michi Rüegg, the Swiss national trainer for long distances, on the effects and benefits of altitude training, and why the Engadin is the ideal place for it. Text K A R I N D E H M E R Photography F I L I P Z U A N

Michi Rüegg, let’s say I’m a keen runner. I run regularly and have a good level of fitness. Now I want to stick with my usual training while I’m on holiday in the Engadin. What physical differences will I notice? Or will I not notice anything at all? Michi Rüegg: You’ll certainly notice that you can’t perform as well as you usually do. Your usual training will feel tougher, your running pace will be slower, and you’ll tire out much sooner. Why is that? There’s less oxygen in the air up in the mountains. In other words, you get out of breath much faster when you’re Altitude Training

exercising so high up. And the higher you go, the worse it gets. Especially if you’re used to being down low. If you live and train at an altitude of at least 1,500 metres, your body acclimatises to those conditions. So when does altitude training make sense? Ideally, you head up high and train there for three weeks. You come down from the mountain to compete and then head back up at a later stage to train again as required. The stimulus on the body brought about by these shifts is what makes altitude training so worthwhile. E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Start stronger after altitude training in the Upper Engadin. Altitude Training

88 Elite athletes from all around the world train together in St. Moritz.

Altitude Training

E N G A D I N Magazin S O M M E R / H E R B S T

Altitude Training

“What I love about training in the Engadin is that everyone is out there running together.” MICHI RÜEGG

Long-distance trainer for Swiss Athletics

What does altitude training involve? First of all, it takes athletes a good few days to acclimatise to the high altitude. They don’t train properly during this time. I’d say that the benefits of altitude training really only start to kick in after three weeks. If you keep training up high throughout the season, you’ll cut down on the amount of time you need to acclimatise. But your performance still won’t be at the same level as when you’re training at lower altitudes or at sea level. All the runners I train with run at a slower pace at high altitude. Is it true that you can jog alongside famous faces in the Upper Engadin during the summer months? Oh, yes! World-class athletes, no less. I mean, they’ll probably overtake you (laughs)! But how cool is it to see an Olympic athlete on TV and realise you saw them when you were in St. Moritz? What I love about training in the Engadin is that everyone is out there running together – from people out for a casual jog to Olympic champions Altitude Training

training for a race. I can’t think of a better form of motivation for amateur runners! Where’s your favourite place to train in the Engadin? It has to be the routes along the lakes. They’re just incredible! Compared to other mountainous regions in Switzerland, the Engadin has some nice and relatively flat stretches. Is the training centre in the Engadin just another training venue like all the others for athletes? No, definitely not. It’s special for them every time they’re here. And it’s not just the altitude that attracts them to the Engadin. It’s also all the opportunities to train with other athletes. And to be surrounded by nature, of course.

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

You get out of breath faster when training at high altitudes. Altitude Training

Elise Cranny (27), USA, 1,500 m, 5,000 m, 10,000 m “Altitude training gives me an extra boost ahead of competitions. It makes me feel stronger.”

Tom Elmer (26), CH, OAC Europe Team 800 m, 1,500 m “The training conditions are just perfect in the Engadin – the climate and weather are spot on. And I can find peace here.”

Jonas Raess (29), CH, OAC Europe Team, 3,000 m, 10,000 m “The scenery in the Engadin is breathtaking. And you can set off on endurance runs right from your doorstep.”

Mohammed Ahmed (32), CAN, 5,000 m, 10,000 m “You’re surrounded by other athletes up here – I feel more relaxed yet also more focused.”

Altitude Training

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Altitude Training: Low Air Pressure, High Performance Muottas Muragl 2,454 m 2

St. Moritz 1,822 m

Zurich 408 m

Weeks

Training at lower altitudes

Zurich 408 m

3 W.

Altitude training

8 W.

Competition

Air pressure:

Oxygen intake:

Blood oxygen level: ↑

Blood oxygen level: ↓

Blood oxygen level: ↑

Performance: ->

Performance: ↓

Performance: ↑

If you’re looking to switch your sea-level training for altitude training, you need to allow at least two weeks and ideally three weeks because it’ll take a while for your body to acclimatise to the new conditions.

Altitude training is all about training your body to achieve the same results you would usually see at lower elevations but with less oxygen in the air.

When you return to lower ground or sea level, your body will be able to cope much better with the physical exertion because there will suddenly be more oxygen available to boost your performance. The positive effects last for up to five weeks.

Air pressure:

Altitude Training

WIN YOUR TICKETS NOW weltklassezuerich.ch/spiel

5. SEPTEMBER 2024 STADION LETZIGRUND

Way Up High Training with a view

High Altitude Training Base St. Moritz – The altitude training centre in St. Moritz has been the official High Altitude Training Base of Swiss Olympic since 2022. And it has been helping athletes prepare for upcoming competitions since the 1960s. The simple, functional design of the mobile

i pavilion, which is used as a changing room and storage space, has been a hit with athletes and architecture aficionados alike since it was built in 2018. engadin.ch/high-altitude-training

The Promulins Arena in Samedan is another complex offering plenty of sports and leisure activities in the local area. promulins-arena.ch

Altitude Training

Fit, Fitter, Vitaparcours Check out the Vitaparcours trails in the area for a workout in the fresh air and under the treetops. engadin.ch/vita-parcourse 1 Wild Maloja – This trail takes you on wildly overgrown paths, over roots, and through moorland.

Laps at 2,550 metres Corviglia – Besides the running routes along the lakes and the athletics centre in St. Moritz, this is another place where you’re likely to spot famous faces from the sporting world training up high. The Finnenbahn takes you on a 1,000-metre lap around the Lej Alv natural reservoir. At an altitude of 2,550 metres, the trail is lovely and soft underfoot. engadin.ch/lejalv

2,000 elite athletes train at the altitude training centre in St. Moritz every year.

Breathe and relax Pontresina – There’s a long list of hotels in the local area that tick all the boxes for athletes. The Sporthotel Pontresina is one that has a huge selection of sports equipment available to hire and a lovely wellness area. A real home from home for sporty types.

2 Flat Pontresina – This trail running along the cool stream is ideal at the height of summer. 3 Pretty Samedan – This pretty and well-maintained trail follows a stretch of the Via Engiadina. 4 Short Zuoz – This short but tough trail is perfect for altitude training. 5 Woody Celerina – This short but tough trail is perfect for altitude training. 6 Steep St. Moritz – This is a workout for anyone who means business. The magnificent view makes the steep climb worthwhile.

Engadin Summer Run The St. Moritz Running Festival taking place 9 to 11 August 2024 is sure to be marked in the diaries of keen runners of all ages and abilities. There’s a running event for everyone, including the Kids’ Race (500 m), the Run for Fun (1.5 km), and the legendary Engadin Summer Run (25.5 km). stmoritzrunningfestival.ch

engadin.ch/sporthotel-pontresina

Altitude Training

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

Breathtaking running trails 1

C AV L O C

TRAILRUN SILS

ARPIGLIA

Route length: 15.2 km Difficulty: Ascent: 621 metres Starting point: Maloja Post

Route length: 18.4 km Difficulty: Ascent: 752 metres Starting point: Sils Baselgia

Route length: 12.7 km Difficulty: Ascent: 810 metres Starting point: Zuoz Resgia

A trail with plenty of stunning views that takes you past mountain lakes and a magnificent dam.

Starting in Sils, this trail takes you alongside Lake Sils and up to the idyllic Lägh dal Lunghin lake.

This route is all about the views as you head up to Munt Seja at 2,445 metres above sea level.

START

Maloja

Zuoz

START Silsersee

Sils

Maloja

Lägh da Cavloc

START

M U OT TA S DA S C H L AR I G NA

STEINBOCK TRAIL

CELERINA RUNDE

Route length: 7.9 km Difficulty: Ascent: 533 metres Starting point: Bahnhof Pontresina

Route length: 16.3 km Difficulty: Ascent: 877 metres Starting point: Pontresina Rondo

Route length: 6.2 km Difficulty: Ascent: 212 metres Starting point: San Gian Church

This trail takes you through fragrant forests filled with Swiss stone pine trees and all the way up to the treeline and spectacular views.

This is an easy trail on the sunsoaked slopes of Pontresina, where you might be lucky enough to spot an ibex or two.

This loop takes you through the woodland by Celerina and on to Lej da Staz, which will invite you in for a refreshing dip. START Celerina

Pontresina St.

ee tzers Mori

START St. Moritz

START Pontresina

Altitude Training

Cultura “I felt my lungs inflate with the onrush of scenery – air, mountains, trees, people. I thought, this is what it is to be happy .” S Y LV I A P L AT H ( 1 9 3 2 – 1 9 6 3 ) , AMERICAN POET

100

Serpentine Cloud and Backwards Wind

Maloja wind

Upper Engadin

glia rega Val B

y valle

d win

The lack of terminus between the Upper Engadin and Val Bregaglia leaves the valley wind free to blow over the Maloja Pass towards the Upper Engadin lakes.

Cultura

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

101

All hail the Maloja wind! This thermal fair-weather wind blowing in the wrong direction makes the Upper Engadin lakes ideal for water sports. The fact that the Maloja wind blows down-valley rather than up-valley, as you’d usually expect for valley winds, comes down to the special topography of Val Bregaglia and the Upper Engadin. Basically, there is no terminus between the two valleys. With the steep and narrow Val Bregaglia to the south, the Maloja Pass to the north has an elevation of 1,815 metres above sea level, putting it more or less on a par with the Upper Engadin. And so the wind from Val Bregaglia is free to blow over the Maloja Pass and down the valley towards Zuoz. This distinctive breeze is known for causing another unusual weather phenomenon – the Maloja snake, a long serpentine cloud that slowly snakes along the valley slopes from Maloja down to Lej da Staz and back again. It forms when the valley wind in Val Bregaglia pushes along warm air towards the Maloja Pass, where cooler layers of air await. The moisture condenses to create clouds and if the wind keeps blowing towards the Upper Engadin lakes, it pushes the clouds just over the treetops and into the basin of the valley. The best places to marvel at this natural spectacle are the Julier Pass and Corviglia.

Watch a time lapse of clouds and gusts of wind sweeping through the Engadin.

Cultura

102

The crystalline light over the lakes hints at the beginning of fall. Cultura

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

103

Where is Alba? Text L E T A S E M A D E N I Photography F I L I P Z U A N

“I

t’s blowing in the wrong direction,” thought Toma to himself as he stared at the intensifying ripples on the water’s surface.

“You see it before you hear or feel it,” he mumbled softly, looking up to where the wind was coming from. In the crystalline light, he could tell that autumn had arrived in Maloja and was starting to leave its mark on the landscape. The season had already painted broad strokes of brown and yellow onto the meadows. The tiny waves lapped against his feet in a rhythm that was picking up speed. The wind would soon be blowing in his face. The view across the lake and up to Maloja was enough to take his breath away. He sat down. He liked the fact that the wind went in the wrong direction, ignoring all the rules and blowing down-valley through the Upper Engadin. The wind was as resistant as everything else here in this whole area that still seemed so strange to him. He had lived and worked nearby for years now. He’d had a chance to get used to this wind and its whims. People believed that the Maloja wind could change their destiny. To be honest, the most important encounters of Toma’s life had happened in the 20 years he’d been around it. All of them right beside this very lake. He’d never forgotten meeting Alba – even though it was a short and fleeting moment in time. Cultura

“When you say ʻautumn’, you have your own idea of autumn in your mind.”

106

A sugar-coated first winter greeting at the Rosatsch mountain range. Cultura

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

107

He could remember that laugh of hers as if it were yesterday. He had heard it here first. In fact, he could even hear it as he played with the water with his feet right here on this spot. He remembered thinking back then that her laugh sounded a bit like the wind. It started with a gentle coo that rippled and became louder, picking up a rhythm until, depending on what had caused it, it finished in a crescendo. You could use the exact same description for the Maloja wind on some days. They had both dangled their feet in the water on that first afternoon. Autumn had just begun. The light was bright and clear, and the afternoons were still long. A few weeks after that, she was gone. Just like that. He walked back to this spot often. Sat beside the lake with his feet in the water. The road behind him disappeared beyond the edge of the woods. She never came back. She had been hard to read. The few times they had met, he had tried to work out what she was thinking and feeling. What was hiding behind the expressions on her face? She never answered with a simple yes or no. She’d say something like, “Yes, no, well yes, there’s that but what about this... Nothing is ever so clear-cut.” Round and round in circles. “When you say ‘autumn’, you have your own idea of autumn in your mind. Some people picture golden larches, a steely blue sky, and mountain tops dusted with icing sugar. Others just see fog in front of them or feel a cool wetness on their skin at the mere mention of the word. And then there are the people who might not even know what autumn is all about because they don’t have the same experience of seasons.” After a short pause, she added, “It’s really not easy trying to understand other people. Everyone speaks their own language. You know, sometimes I get fed up with having to translate constantly. Life is as unpredictable as the Maloja wind,” she said. But he would have liked some clarity. Cultura

108

Soon, a shadow of doubt overwhelmed the joy and excitement he had been starting to feel about meeting her. One day, she just wasn’t there anymore. He reverted to his lonely and monotonous life, as if the encounters had never happened. It was only when he sat by the lake and stared at the water slowly starting to gently ripple that he thought of her. He could picture her vividly and her laugh filled his ears. The wind had picked up and was blowing his hair all over the place. He wasn’t actually all that surprised that she had disappeared so suddenly. Whenever they randomly met here, she had always given the impression that she was constantly searching for a new start in life. Every time he was overwhelmed by a sense of emptiness in his life, he was amazed at how emptiness could weigh so heavily. Did the Maloja wind blow her out of the valley? This weather phenomenon would sometimes rage through the narrow mountain corridor, undoubtedly strong enough to carry someone along in its powerful gusts. The wind would sometimes drag the Maloja snake down from the Maloja Pass. A long and dense cloud of fog that would float just above the bottom of the valley, sometimes draped across the mountain slopes like a giant beaded necklace. Could this person who had taken up residence in his memory against his wishes be brought back to him on this legendary white serpentine cloud? Her name was Alba.

i The poet Leta Semadeni writes in Romansh and German. She won the Swiss Literature Prize in 2016 and was awarded the Grand Prix for Literature by the Swiss Federal Office of Culture in 2023 for her life’s work. Cultura

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

109

The poetic atmosphere of the Upper Engadin lakes has enchanted writers and painters for over 200 years. Cultura

110

Poetry of the Wind Literature and the fine arts in the Engadin

Clouds of Sils Maria The Maloja snake is a weather phenomenon that has already provided inspiration for writers, artists, and documentary makers. In 2014, this serpentine cloud was even the star of a Hollywood film. “Clouds of Sils Cultura

i Maria” starring Juliette Binoche and Kristen Stewart tells the story of the turbulent revival of a play named after the Maloja snake. You can find the film on: filmingo.ch

French actress Juliette Binoche in the 2014 film “Clouds of Sils Maria”.

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R / A U T U M N

111

High in the sky A few more cultural highlights tower high above the villages of the Engadin …

La Tuor

Samedan – With its history dating all the way back to 1281, this tower was once the home of nobility during the Middle Ages. These days, it’s used as a cultural centre.

Deep breath Samedan – Musicians who play brass instruments will be coming together in Samedan between 30 and 6 July 2024. The sounds of brass bands fill the air in and around the village for a whole week during “Brassweek”. Concerts are held in the village square, in the reformed church, at hotels, and under the stars. Plus, musicians have the chance to attend master classes and learn from top lecturers from around the world. engadin.ch/brassweek

Poetry in local dialect Celerina – A new book of poetry called “Launa da pavagls” was released by Engadin poet Jessica Zuan in 2023. It’s filled with beautifully poetic texts, with many inspired by reflections on nature in the place the poet calls home. chasaeditura.ch

incredible buildings in the Upper Engadin will be open to the public for the Open Doors Engadin event. opendoors.ch

Champagne air

In 1947, composer Richard Strauss famously said: “There is only one Engadin in the whole world. We are completely enthusiastic here and sip the air of the chamois like French Champagne.”

Leaning tower

St. Moritz – This lonely leaning tower is all that’s left of the old Church of St. Mauritius, which was destroyed in 1893.

Belvedere Tower

Maloja – This tower may have a medieval look about it, but it actually only dates back to 1882. It used to be part of a residence built for nobility and is now home to a nature conservation centre.

Spaniola Tower

Pontresina – It’s believed that this old castle keep was built for the local noble family in Pontresina in around 1200. Cultura

Double the pleasure. Free use of mountain railways with a stay of two nights or more. www.engadin.ch/mri

Engadin. What mountains, what lakes, what light.

Hotel & mountain railways included Book now! www.engadin.ch/mri

113

Last breath The mystical mountains, the dark winter nights, and the Maloja snake floating over the valley provide plenty of inspiration for crime writers penning spine-tingling tales.

Open-air concerts Cosy corners of the valley provide venues for incredible open-air concerts during the summer months. engadin.ch/openair

Daniel Badraun, Tod im Engadin (Death in the Engadin) Sils police officer Gaudenz Huber suspects a hunter’s death may be murder. Emons Verlag, 2021. Andrea Gutgsell, Tod im Val Fex (Death in Fex Valley) A 50-year-old crime and a wall of silence surrounding a safely guarded family secret. Zytglogge, 2022. Gian Maria Calonder, Massimo Capaul series Detective Massimo Capaul investigates mysterious, strange, and gruesome crimes in the Engadin. Kampa Verlag, since 2018.

Sabina Altermatt, Alpenrauschen (Mountain Murmurs) A journalist believes that the death of a local politician in the Engadin is more than just an accident. Limmat Verlag, 2008. Philipp Gurt, Mord im Bernina (Murder on the Bernina Express) Police officer Corina Costa sets about solving a mysterious murder on the Bernina Express. Kampa Verlag, 2023.

Sils Choir Weeks Sils – There are up to 10 week-long courses combined with a hotel stay in sun-soaked Sils on offer as part of the Sils Choir Weeks. There’s plenty on the programme to cater to all singers – from the basics of singing in a choir to voice training, and from musicals to folk music. silser-chorwochen.ch

Detective fun in Samedan Samedan – The KrimiSpass interactive outdoor experience is your chance to try your hand at becoming a detective. You have to find 11 posts and solve puzzles as you walk around Samedan for around two hours. engadin.ch/interactive-detective-fun

1 Chapella Open Air S-chanf – One of Switzerland’s smallest open-air concerts takes place in a clearing just outside the village. engadin.ch/chapella-music

Festival da Jazz by Lej da Staz

Celerina – The most idyllic stage set up for the legendary Festival da Jazz St. Moritz is right beside Lej da Staz. festivaldajazz.ch 3 Guardaval Sounds Madulain – You won’t want to miss this afternoon open-air concert starring talented local singer Martina Linn on 28 July 2024. engadin.ch/guardavalsounds

4 Back to the Roots Samedan – The square in front of the Chesa Planta Museum is transformed into a lovely concert venue multiple times throughout the summer. engadin .ch/backtotheroots-openair

19th Sils art and literature festival Sils – All eyes will be on art and literature in Sils – and at Hotel Waldhaus in particular – between 29 August and 1 September 2024, when there will be a full programme of talks, guided walks, and lectures available. engadin.ch/literary-days

Cultura

115

Pinboard Highlights from summer and winter for idyllic holidays in the Engadin.

Pinboard

116 1

Pinboard

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R & W I N T E R

117

Mountain bike

On your saddle, get set, go

Brilliant bike adventures await in the Engadin with signposted routes covering 400 kilometres, bike transport facilities all the way up to the Piz Nair mountain station at 3,057 metres above sea level, and exciting trails all the way down to Italy and back again. engadin.ch/mountain-bike

Pass-Piz-Lake trail safari Bernina Pass – While you might spot a marmot or two along the way on this safari, you are also sure to enjoy the diverse terrain in magnificent surroundings. You will find lakes both large and small glistening on the Bernina Pass, the awesome flowing Morteratsch glacier, hear the ringing of the bell at the church in San Gian near Celerina, while Piz Nair beckons with its expansive views over the valley. You can experience all this and more on a 42-kilometre route that challenges even expert bikers. engadin.ch/pass-piz-lake-trail-safari

leading to Marguns. From here, the chairlift takes you to Corviglia for the second descent, the WM Flow Trail. The adventure ends with the Foppettas Flow Trail in Champfèr. What a ride! engadin.ch/flow-trail-safari-blue 2

E-bike across the Engadin

Five special e-bike trails connect the Engadin’s best beauty spots – all off the beaten track. They intersect at plenty of points along the way, so you can cycle for days along your own personal route. engadin.ch/ebike

Cable car travel included Looking for the cheapest way to get you and your bike up into the mountains? If you go for the all-inclusive ticket option, you can travel on up to 13 cable cars when you stay at a participating hotel for at least two nights. engadin.ch/hotel-mountain-railways-all-inclusive

Piz Nair – Fuorcla Valletta – Samedan St. Moritz – Many trails lead down from Piz Nair at 3057 m.a.s.l. – one of them climbs over the Fuorcla Schlattain and Fuorcla Valletta passes to Samedan. It is quite a demanding route, especially with the push and carry passages shortly before Valletta. The effort is nevertheless rewarding with a stunning descent and delicious “Kaiserschmarrn” at Alp Muntatsch. engadin.ch/piz-nair-fuorcla-valletta

Flow Trail Safari Corviglia – Speed from wave to wave and dare a little more with each one: the Flow Trail Safari is truly an adventure, even for less experienced bikers. The trail starts on the easier Marmotta Flow Trail

More info? engadin.ch/en/bike

Pinboard

118 1

Hiking

Something for everyone You can use the Engadin trail database to plan your own perfect route on the hiking trails covering over 280 kilometres. You can also find out more about exciting excursion destinations and accommodation, check the weather, and look at maps. maps.engadin.ch

Via Engiadina Through forests of Swiss stone pine and larch, across streams and alpine meadows: the Via Engiadina leads from Maloja to Zernez in five stages. engadin.ch/via-engiadina/en

Glacier Experience Trail Explore the wonders of nature and learn fascinating facts about the glacier and how it has changed on a two-hour hike along a nature trail with five themed stops. engadin.ch/glacier-theme-trail 1

Cable cars included

If you stay at one of the participating hotels for two or more nights, you’ll receive a ticket to travel on 10 of the major cable cars. engadin.ch/hotel-mountain-railways-included

More info? engadin.ch/hiking

Pinboard

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R & W I N T E R

119

Pinboard

120

Photo: Gian Giovanoli

Pinboard

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R & W I N T E R

121

Family

Family fun It won’t ever take you long to find your next fun adventure for the whole family to enjoy in the Engadin. With plenty of family-friendly accommodation and activities on offer, the local area even has two official “Family Destinations” – Pontresina and Zuoz. engadin.ch/family-trips

Disc golf Samedan – Disc golf entails hitting various baskets with a frisbee in as few throws as possible. The course begins at the Muntarütsch shooting range in idyllic surroundings. engadin.ch/disc-golf

Little fires everywhere

Playgrounds

There are playgrounds of all shapes and sizes across the valley for children of all ages to enjoy, some with sophisticated and elaborate designs. engadin.ch/playground

Theme trails “Hiking is boring”: children forget their tired hiking legs on one of the region’s countless analogue and digital theme trails: nature trails, crime trail, paths along water, the Olympic Bob Run, literature or animal trails, and more. There is a fun hiking trail to suit everyone. If your shoes are rubbing, then take them off along the barefoot trail. engadin.ch/theme-trails

Whether swimming at the lake, along the Inn River, in the high alpine meadows, or under shady larches, barbecue fans will find secluded grill places throughout the valley, many of them supplied with firewood. engadin.ch/barbecue-sites

Pump tracks & skills parks The region’s skills parks and pump tracks offer a great way to have fun while practising riding techniques for your bike tour. Obstacles, waves, and curves are waiting to be mastered by young riding talent and established pros alike. engadin.ch/pumptracks-skills-parks

More info? engadin.ch/family-trips

Pinboard

122

Water sports 1

The Maloja wind makes the Upper Engadin lakes the natural top spot for surfing and sailing in the Alps. engadin.ch/water-sports

Sailing on Lake Sils Sils – Good wind conditions on Lake Sils make for enjoyable sailing almost every day during summer. Thanks to the reliable Maloja wind that blows down the valley, the Engadin enjoys a worldwide reputation as a top water sports destination.

wind permitting, creating a delightful display of colour: heaven for water sports enthusiasts. engadin.ch/water-sports

Lake Staz Celerina – A swim in Lake Staz is good for you: the moorland water is rich in minerals and has an anti-inflammatory effect. engadin.ch/lake-staz

engadin.ch/sail-sports 1

Kitesurfing & windsurfing

Silvaplana – Kites and windsurf sails dance over the water of Lake Silvaplana daily from about midday, Pinboard

More info? engadin.ch/water-sports

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R & W I N T E R

Photo: Fabian Gattlen

Alpine surf paradise

123

Golf 1

Golfing good times

Hotel Margna golf course

How about a game of golf in one of the best golfing regions in the Alps? With the “Golf Unlimited” offer, golfers gain unlimited access to the Samedan and Zuoz-Madulain golf courses if they’re staying for two or more nights at one of the participating Engadin Golf Hotels. engadin.ch/golf-unlimited

Sils – The Parkhotel Margna has its own 4-hole golf course with driving range (15 tees).

Samedan golf course Samedan – The 18-hole championship course, with partially covered driving range and innovative technical aids such as RoboGolfPro and Trackman, surpasses all expectations.

Zuoz golf course

Zuoz – The 18-hole golf course in Zuoz -Madulain is designed to be fun and caters to golfers of all abilities.

Kulm golf course in St. Moritz St. Moritz – Beautifully set in the Alpine landscape by the Kulm Hotel St. Moritz, this 9-hole course promises plenty of variety.

More info? engadin.ch/en/golf

Pinboard

124

Running

Running high and low

The Engadin is ideal for trail running. Countless trails of all levels of difficulty lead through thick forests, across bare mountain slopes, and into secluded side valleys. engadin.ch/trailrunning

La Punt trail running parcourse

La Punt – Train your balance, speed, and coordination on the parcourse in La Punt. Hone your running technique over a variety of surfaces. The course is just one kilometre long, a perfect way to prepare for the diverse Engadin trails.

Events St. Moritz Running Festival & Engadiner Sommerlauf Keen runners should ensure they keep the weekend of the St. Moritz Running Festival free from 9 – 11 August 2024. This is also the occasion of the much-loved Engadiner Sommerlauf. stmoritzrunningfestival.ch

engadin.ch/trailrunningparcours

Introduction to trail running

Experienced mountain and desert ultrarunner, Roberto Rivola, knows where to find the most beautiful trail running routes in the Engadin. He shares many intriguing insights in a one-hour presentation, along with valuable tips to improve yourself. engadin.ch/introduction-in-trailrunning

Running with the forest

Immerse yourself while jogging through the forests of the Engadin with sports scientist and ultrarunner Anne-Marie Flammersfeld. The leisurely pace allows you to observe and discover nature and notice how your body and mind react positively to it. engadin.ch/run-with-the-forest

Pinboard

More info? engadin.ch/trail-running

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R & W I N T E R

Photo: Switzerland Tourism

125

Pinboard

126

Photo: Switzerland Tourism

Pinboard

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R & W I N T E R

127

Excursions

Journey of discovery

The central location of the Engadin and its excellent transport links open the door to exciting day trips to the north or south. You can even head through the southern valleys and make it all the way to Italy and back again. engadin.ch/treninn-experience

Diavolezza Pontresina – The Diavolezza cable car will transport you up to lofty heights, where you can explore the magical world of mountains and glaciers. Piz Bernina, Piz Palü, and the Pers and Morteratsch Glaciers await – along with a breath-taking panoramic view. Depending on how much time you have and how energetic you’re feeling, you can set off on the Glacier Experience Trail or join a glacier hiking expedition with the Pontresina Mountaineering School. engadin.ch/diavolezza-mountain

Bernina Express to Poschiavo Pontresina – The Bernina Express is the best way to travel between the Engadin mountains and the Mediterranean south, starting in Pontresina and ending up in Tirano in Valtellina. You can even experience the Albula Railway, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, for part of the journey. The glaciers you can see up close from the panoramic windows to begin with are later replaced by the sight of palm trees in southern climes. This train journey is an adventure in its own right. engadin.ch/bernina-express

TrenInn Hop on and off the train to experience Engadin culture and have fun solving intriguing puzzles along the way with the “TrenInn” ticket valid on the route between St. Moritz/Pontresina and Scuol-Tarasp. engadin.ch/treninn-experience

Bernina Glaciers Pontresina – Explore the incredible area around the Bernina Glaciers between the Diavolezza mountain station and the Valposchiavo on foot, by bike, and by train. If you’re looking for fun days out, you can follow family-friendly adventure trails, challenge yourself to high-up mountain expeditions, and visit the Cavaglia glacial mills for starters. engadin.ch/berninaglaciers

More info? engadin.ch/excursions

Pinboard

128

Ski & snowboard

Fun times ahead

Snow-Deal

A total of 88 perfectly prepared slopes covering 350 kilometres await in nine ski resorts with guaranteed snow. Welcome to a wonderful world all in white! engadin.ch/skiing

Book early for the best deal! The region’s lift company operates a dynamic pricing system that allows visitors who plan ahead to enjoy an early-booking discount when they buy their lift pass. snow-deal.ch/en

Down the White Carpet The thought of immaculately prepared but deserted pistes is enough to get even the most laid-back skier or snowboarder out of bed early. Many lifts in the region already start at 7.45 am: no hint of a queue anywhere. At the summit, as the first rays of sunshine light up the slopes, early risers enjoy their personal White Carpet: a glorious run down perfect pistes. There’s no better way to start the day! engadin.ch/en/white-carpet 1

Half-pipe fun

Corvatsch – Corvatsch Park is one of the biggest snow parks in the Alpine region. Hobby freestylers and snowboarding pros practise their tricks and jumps side by side here. A new half pipe is being added to the existing infrastructure ready for the FIS Snowboard, Freestyle and Freeski World Championships in St. Moritz/Engadin in 2025. engadin.ch/corvatsch-ski

Ski school Learning to ski is fun – especially when it is with the help of a professional instructor. The Engadin’s ski areas have various ski schools at which visitors of all ages can enjoy their first experience on skis or a snowboard, hone their skills, or, after a longer break from the snow, regain confidence for a safe return to the pistes. engadin.ch/en/sport

Pinboard

Sleep + Ski While it is worth spending at least one night in the Engadin, the Sleep + Ski offer makes it all the more worthwhile. Ski passes are available for the duration of your stay in a participating accommodation for just CHF 45 per person and day. engadin.ch/en/sleep-ski

Events Audi FIS Ski World Cup St. Moritz – The world’s best female skiers will be competing for valuable World Cup points on Corviglia, St. Moritz’s local mountain, from 16 to 18 December 2023. engadin.ch/ski-world-cup

FIS Freeski & Snowboard World Cup Corvatsch Silvaplana – The world’s best freeskiers and slopestyle snowboarders will meet for the (end-of-season and) FIS World Cup finals in the Corvatsch Park from 21 to 24 March 2024 in Silvaplana. engadin.ch/freeski-world-cup-corvatsch

More info? engadin.ch/ski-snowboard

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R & W I N T E R

129 1

Pinboard

130 1

Pinboard

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R & W I N T E R

131

Cross-country skiing

Over 240 km of trails

Early in the morning or under the afternoon sun, in the Engadin, the daily cross-country ski tour becomes a special experience. With over 240 kilometres of trails, both beginners and professionals will find a route to suit them. engadin.ch/cross-country-skiing

Across the frozen lakes By mid-winter, several centimetres of ice and a smooth layer of snow cover the big Engadin lakes: perfect conditions for exploring the flat valley floor on cross-country skis. The trail across Lake Sils, Lake Silvaplana, and Lake Champfèr measures 12 kilometres, and forms part of the famous Engadin Skimarathon route. engadin.ch/cross-country-skiing-lakes

Events Engadin Skimarathon The largest cross-country skiing event in Switzerland has taken athletes from Maloja to S-chanf for over 50 years. The Marathon Village in Pontresina is a fun place during the marathon week from 2 to 10 March 2024. engadin.ch/marathon-week

La Diagonela The route for this classic cross-country skiing event is 55 kilometres long, starting in Pontresina and finishing in Zuoz.

More info? engadin.ch/cross-country-skiing

Pinboard

132

Carriages & equestrian sports 1

Wrap up

What could be more charming and romantic than a ride in a horse-drawn carriage or on horseback through the snowy Engadin? Wrap up warm and get cosy before setting off to explore the idyllic side valleys and breath-taking lake scenery. engadin.ch/horse-drawn-sleighs

Saddle up Whether you’re a seasoned rider or new in the saddle, you can get comfy on the warm back of a Freiberger horse from the Engadin River Ranch and discover the winter wonderland away from the ski slopes and cross-country runs at a leisurely walking pace. Horse owners will also be interested to hear that the River Ranch has horse holiday accommodation available. engadin.ch/horse-riding Pinboard

Events Snowpolo World Cup St. Moritz – Equestrian sport and luxury lifestyle will meet on the frozen Lake of St. Moritz against a magnificent natural backdrop from 26 to 28 January 2024. engadin.ch/snow-polo

White Turf The world’s only horse race on a frozen lake will once again delight guests from all over the world between 4 and 18 February 2024. engadin.ch/whiteturf More info? engadin.ch/horse-drawn-carriage-val-fex

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R & W I N T E R

133

Tobogganing & family 1

Tobogganing for families

As soon as the first snow has settled, some of the region’s pass roads and many footpaths turn into delightful sledging venues. As well as short descents and leisurely rides, enthusiasts find several runs that pack a real thrill. An ideal toboggan run for families, for example, is the three-kilometre path from Alp Es-cha Dadour to Madulain. engadin.ch/tobogganing

Winter walks with a pushchair Families with young children love the flat trails between Sils, Silvaplana, and St. Moritz; in good snow conditions, these are also pushchairaccessible. The four-kilometre trail through the Val Bever is also ideal for a gentle walk:

starting at Bever railway station, the route leads along the Beverin river, across snow-covered meadows and through enchanting forests. engadin.ch/winter-hiking

Muottas Muragl Samedan – On three winter hiking trails, an easy snowshoe trail, or from the toboggan run down to Punt Muragl, you get the breath-taking view for free. engadin.ch/muottas-muragl/winter-idyll

More info? engadin.ch/families-in-winter

Pinboard

134

Photo: Fabian Gattlen

Pinboard

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R & W I N T E R

135

Activities on ice

Sports on ice

With skating, hockey, and curling on offer, visitors to the Engadin have plenty of opportunities to take to the smooth black ice. There are 17 incredible ice rinks in the region in total, including natural ones in village settings, artificial ones, and frozen lakes. Skating equipment is available to hire at many of the locations. engadin.ch/ice-sports

Black ice Sub-zero temperatures and no snowfall: when these conditions coincide, the surface of the Engadin lakes freezes to form a transparent sheet of ice, black and mysterious, sparkling in the sunshine. This wonder of nature is rare, however, occurring only about twice a decade. Locals and visitors venture onto the ice at their own risk. Information about the state of the ice and tips on how to enjoy it safely are available from local tourist information offices. engadin.ch/black-ice

Madulain-Zuoz ice trail Madulain/Zuoz – The ice trail from Madulain to Zuoz provides the perfect setting for an incredible skating experience surrounded by nature. Explore the stunning floodplain landscape along the Inn on skates, admiring the light reflecting off the river, marvelling at the view of the historical village centre, and soaking up the tranquillity in the valley along the way. The trail starts by the works yard in Madulain. You have to bring your own skates and are advised that you use the ice trail at your own risk. engadin.ch/eisweg-madulain

Events Olympic bobsleigh run St. Moritz/Celerina – The ice channel from St. Moritz to Celerina is the only natural one left in the world. That means snow, water, and elbow grease are all it takes to maintain it – unlike bobsleigh runs in other countries that have to be prepared with artificial ice every year. Many national and international competitions are held here every winter. engadin.ch/bob-run

Cresta Run St. Moritz – This 1.2-kilometre natural ice skeleton racing toboggan track is built from scratch and iced every year. Beginners are welcome to brave it for an icy adventure, while the pros compete in various races and events here all season long. engadin.ch/cresta-run

The ICE St. Moritz – This wintertime classic car race is one of a kind. It takes place at the racecourse on the frozen surface of Lake St. Moritz from 23 to 24 February, 2024.

Ice concerts Let music warm your soul in a snowy setting. The old tradition of holding concerts at the edge of the Engadin’s ice fields was revived recently. engadin.ch/ice-concert

More info? engadin.ch/ice

Pinboard

136 1

Far from the pistes: tips for extra safety The freedoms of a freeride outing also carry certain risks. However, by following various rules, participants can reduce these. Riders should study the latest weather and avalanche reports before every trip, for example; they should venture into open terrain only in company and never alone; tackle steep slopes one by one; and carry the necessary equipment at all times. Find further tips for freeriders at: engadin.ch/free-ride

Pinboard

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R & W I N T E R

137

Freeride & snowshoeing

Ski tours and snowshoe hikes

There’s an adventure for everyone across the 250 kilometres of winter hiking trails. Ski tourers are in their element here too thanks to the wide range of leisurely, challenging, and downhill routes. engadin.ch/skitouring

Snowshoeing along the Lake Trail Furtschellas – The Corvatsch Lake Trail is an easy snowshoe trail with an extra level of comfort and convenience. As walkers follow the marked route, they enjoy glorious views of the snow-covered valley and its frozen lakes – with the prospect of a fortifying snack or a delicious meal at the Ustaria Rabgiusa en route. engadin.ch/snowshoeing

Diavolezza Challenge Diavolezza – This special, permanent ski touring route takes you from the Diavolezza valley station up to the mountain station away from the ski slope. It’s an ideal option for beginners looking for somewhere to practise. engadin.ch/diavolezza-ski-challenge

Avalanche awareness courses Anyone who ventures off-piste will benefit from one of the avalanche awareness courses run by the Pontresina Mountaineering School. This basic training for all ski tourers and freeriders focuses on preventing avalanches, but also offers practice in what to do in an emergency. engadin.ch/bergsteigerschule-pontresina

More info? engadin.ch/winter-dreams

Pinboard

138 1

Pinboard

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R & W I N T E R

139

Cultural attractions

Cultural highlights

Zuoz village centre

Unique architecture, exceptional museums, and a jam-packed calendar of concerts and events guarantee a rich cultural experience all year round.

The historical centre of what was once the main village in the Upper Engadin is still intact with magnificent manors around the impressive village square, giving it special protection status as a village of national interest in Switzerland.

engadin.ch/culture

Scala Cinema

engadin.ch/visit-zuoz

St. Moritz – Emotions have been running high in the cinema seats at the legendary Scala for over nine decades. After being closed for many years and undergoing major renovation work, the old building is back with a new look that stays true to its art deco roots. engadin.ch/scala-cinema

Events

Belvedere Tower

Maloja – Originally built as part of a private residence in 1882, Belvedere Tower is now one of Maloja’s landmarks. Pro Natura bought the tower in 1953 – along with the surrounding forest and glacial potholes – and created a nature reserve. A new environmental education programme all about biodiversity in the Alps is set to start in June 2024. engadin.ch/belvedere-tower 2

Alpine Museum

Pontresina – A traditional Engadin house dating back to 1716 is home to the Alpine Museum, where visitors can gain an insight into how people used to live, look at collections of minerals, fauna and flora, and learn about the pioneering days of alpinism. engadin.ch/museumalpin

Château Papillon St. Moritz – Château Papillon is a gallery for works by young Engadin artists and emerging contemporary African artists. Doubling up as a cultural think tank, it has become a lively and vibrant hub for art in all its forms from here to Africa. chateau-papillon.ch

Stubete am See Sils – The Stubete am See festival for new Swiss folk music is held in Sils from 18 to 20 October 2024. Various ensembles play in local hotels, at gala dinners, at Furtschellas middle station, at the public church in Sils, and at Champsegl school. stubeteamseesils.ch

St. Moritz Art Film Festival St. Moritz – The St. Moritz Art Film Festival has been bringing together art, cinema, and audiovisual culture every year since 2020. Much to the delight of academics, cinema buffs, artists, film producers, actors, and collectors. smaff.org

Camerata

Pontresina – The legendary spa concerts were first performed by Camerata Pontresina back in 1910. The orchestra now joins with ensembles from St. Moritz and Sils to recreate salon music from days gone by in a charming setting throughout the summer months. engadin.ch/camerata-pontresina

More info? engadin.ch/arts-culture

Pinboard

140 3

Pinboard

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R & W I N T E R

141

Restaurants

Fine dining

Bellavista

With three language regions and all kinds of cultural influences coming together, the Engadin high valley region is to thank for some of the most exciting (and delicious) culinary delights in Switzerland. engadin.ch/culinary-bever

Silvaplana – The food served at Bellavista blends tradition with innovation. The autumn menu features specials made using freshly hunted game. And the dried meat comes straight from the restaurant’s own meat-drying facilities. engadin.ch/bellavista-silvaplana

Alp Es-cha Dadour Madulain – What could be dreamier than indulging in fresh Ziger cheese or sour Alpine cheese on the sun terrace during a long hike in the mountains? engadin.ch/es-cha-dadour 1

Longhin

Maloja – Diners are greeted with a friendly smile and a spectacular view of the Piz da la Margna at this modern, down-to-earth restaurant. engadin.ch/longhin-maloja

Balthazar Downtown

St. Moritz – This stylish restaurant serves up its own take on fusion cuisine, blending the Mediterranean flavours of Italy with the authentic tastes of Japan. The dishes starring fresh fish and seafood bear the hallmark of Spanish Michelin-star chef Paco Morales. engadin.ch/balthazar-bar 3

Gianottis Pontresina – The traditional craftsmanship of the legendary Engadin confectioners lives on at Gianottis. Order a coffee and a sweet treat in the café or head to the wine bar or grill restaurant. engadin.ch/gianottis

PopUp2 Silvaplana – Passionate hosts Marc and Hanueli serve a wide range of traditional dishes with a modern twist at their quaint and cosy restaurant. Everything on the menu is prepared to perfection and served with love – from the steak tartare and club sandwich to exotic salads and wine from Hanueli’s hometown of Malans. engadin.ch/popup2

Lej da Staz

Celerina – This restaurant beside Lake Staz is only open during the day. And rightly so, because you wouldn’t be able to enjoy the unique location and view in the dark. engadin.ch/lejstaz

More info? engadin.ch/culinary

Pinboard

142 1

Photo 1: Esther Mattle

Pinboard

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R & W I N T E R

143

Accommodation

A good night’s sleep With 50 hotels and over 2,000 holiday homes to choose from, you’re sure to find somewhere to stay that suits your budget and lifestyle. Maybe you’re looking for a traditional touch of Belle Époque luxury, or perhaps modern urban living is more your style? engadin.ch/accommodations

Crusch Alva Zuoz – Hotel Crusch Alva has been providing people with a place to stay right at the heart of Zuoz for 500 years now. Its four restaurants – including two at its partner hotel Engiadina – have plenty on the menu for everyone to enjoy. engadin.ch/crusch-alva-hotel

Chesa Pool

Castell

Zuoz – Calling all art aficionados! Meditate on the wooden deck designed by Japanese artist Tadashi Kawamata before treating yourself to a drink in the bar designed by Swiss artist Pipilotti Rist and dining under an installation by Swiss duo Gerda Steiner and Jörg Lenzlinger. After soaking up all that art, it’ll be time to head to the hotel’s own hammam for some rest and relaxation. engadin.ch/hotelcastell

Berninahaus Pontresina – The idyllic Berninahaus is surrounded by a magnificent mountain landscape at the foot of the Bernina Pass and just a few hundred metres away from the Diavolezza and Lagalb cable cars. There are no end of sporting activities right on your doorstep. engadin.ch/berninahouse

Fex Valley – The first vegetarian hotel in the Engadin is ideal for fans of cross-country skiing and nature lovers. The charming Fex Valley may feel far removed from the rest of the world but it’s only a stone’s throw away from the slopes and winter walking trails. engadin.ch/chesapool 1

Camping Morteratsch

Pontresina – This popular, family-friendly campsite is situated just outside of Pontresina in a wonderful woodland setting by the Ova da Bernina river. If you don’t fancy cooking on gas, you can always choose to dine in the lovely restaurant instead. engadin.ch/campsites

More info? engadin.ch/accommodations

Pinboard

144 1

Pinboard

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R & W I N T E R

145

Spas and pool complexes

Rest and relaxation

MTZ Heilbad St. Moritz

People have been using the mineral springs in St. Moritz and the surrounding area for recovery and recuperation since the Bronze Age. You can count on the modern spas and wellness areas to cater to your every want and need.

St. Moritz – From treating minor or more serious injuries to preventing injury or simply offering guests a spot of pampering: the MTZ Heilbad in St. Moritz is the perfect spot for boosting health in every way. Here, the latest medical expertise meets traditional spa culture for all-round wellbeing. The wide range of services and facilities on offer includes medical wellness, physiotherapy, mineral baths, moor mud body packs, and massages.

Bellavita pool complex in Pontresina Pontresina – The Black Hole water slide at the Pontresina indoor pool is an exhilarating 75 metres long: just one descent is enough to have swimmers of all ages hooked! Adults enjoy working out in the 25-metre sports pool or relaxing in the pleasantly warm outdoor pool and in the attractive sauna section. engadin.ch/bellavita-spa

Mineral baths at Samedan Samedan – Guests seeking pure relaxation find a bathing ritual of mystical beauty in the historical village heart of Samedan. The mineral baths are a work of art sculpted from colour, light, and water, extending over five storeys. One of the many highlights is the rooftop pool, from which visitors enjoy an uplifting view of the surrounding mountains. engadin.ch/mineralbad-spa

Ovaverva pool complex in St. Moritz St. Moritz – The Ovaverva indoor pool, spa, and sports centre is a self-contained world of wellbeing. The top floor offers Kneipp (hydrotherapy) pools, steam baths, a bio sauna and a Finnish sauna, a whirlpool bath, and wonderful views. Younger visitors adore the big indoor pool with water slides, diving boards, and children’s pool. engadin.ch/ovaverva-pool

engadin.ch/medical-therapy

Day spas in the Engadin The spas in the following Engadin hotels welcome non-residents as well as hotel guests to enjoy the facilities to the full: → Saratz Day Spa, Pontresina → Palace Wellness, St. Moritz → Kempinski The SPA, St. Moritz → Kulm Spa, St. Moritz → Grand Hotel Kronenhof, Pontresina → Hammam at the Hotel Castell, Zuoz → Arenas Resort Schweizerhof, Sils 1

→ Waldhaus Spa, Sils

More info? engadin.ch/en/wellness

Pinboard

146

Travelling to the Engadin St.Gallen B 2 h 30

Zurich B 2 h 40

Munich B 4 h 20

Landquart

Bern B 4h

Klosters VE

IER

PASS

Zernez

UPPER ENGADIN

SS BERN

INA-

Chiavenna

O AL

Scuol

NNEL

EL A L B U L A PA S S

J UL

Geneva B 5 h 40

FLÜ

Preda Tiefencastel

Davos

CHUR

Landeck B 1 h 50

Switzerland

PA S S

Lugano

Grisons

Tirano Milan B 3 h 20

As a pioneering piece of railway history and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the 120-year-old Albula Railway promises an incredible train journey with unforgettable views. And it’s about to get even better with the new tunnel opening in 2024.

The times above indicate how long it takes to get from the starting point to the Upper Engadin. Prepare for an exciting experience when over various passes. If you’re not keen on twists and turns, it might be a good idea to take the car transporter through the Vereina Tunnel.

From Chiavenna (in Italy) or Lugano, you can get to St. Moritz on the PostBus and enjoy the twists, turns, and views along the way. Another PostBus route runs from Chur via Savognin and the Julier Pass.

Further information Check departure and journey times for the Rhaetian Railway at engadin.ch/get-here

Further information See details of current traffic conditions in the Engadin and info on car shuttle waiting times at engadin.ch/get-here

Further information Check departure and journey times for the PostBus at

Pinboard

engadin.ch/get-here

E N G A D I N Magazine S U M M E R & W I N T E R

Publisher: Engadin Tourismus AG, engadin.ch — Contact: Jan Steiner, jan.steiner@engadin.ch — Production / Concept / Text / Editing / Copyediting: ranshelvetica / Passaport AG, transhelvetica.ch, Jon and Pia Bollmann, Karin Dehmer, Stephanie Elmer, Martin Hoch, Claudia Walder — Layout: Transhelvetica/Passaport AG, Franca Sidler — Photographs: Filip Zuan, filipzuan.com, @filipzuan; unless specified otherwise, made available by Engadin Tourismus AG and partners — Translation & proofreading: Supertext — Printer: Multicolor Print AG, Baar — Copyright: All rights reserved. Reprint of all or part of this magazine only by express permission of the tourism organisation Engadin Tourismus AG and with acknowledgement. Retail price: CHF 20